Introduction | 6

Sheltfish | 8 Fish I z6
Poultry and game birds | 48 Meat | 66
Pasta and rice I 84

Vegetables I ro4 Eggs I r38

Fruit I 16o
Flour: breads, pastries and cal<es I r78
Stocl<s, sauces and

dressings I zo6

fndex I zzo
Acf<nowledgements I zz4

poached lobster with potato and rocl<et salad
simple, elegant salad looks stunning. You will need two live lobsters, preferably fron the cold, clear loch-fed waters of western Scotland. lf you find that your lobster contoins prized coral as you prepore it (look for a dark green sac), save it. This
This

can be mixed into butter to dress flsh steoks, or beaten and brushed on large raw prawns prior to frying, to impart a superb

flavour and vibrant orangey-pink colour. SERVES z AS A STARTER OR LIGHT DISH
z small live lobsters, about 5oog
each

r First, put the lobsters

in the freezer for about 3o minutes to mal<e them sleepy.

When ready to cool<, mal<e sure you l<itt them quicl<[y: the simptest way is to detach the head from the body as fast and firmly as possibte. Put the lobster, betty-side down, horizontatly in front of you on a board. (The ctaws witt be

rog sea salt
4 targe Charlotte potatoes, about

roog each roog wild rocl<et roomI Vinaigrette (page zr8) z5g piece Parmesan cheese
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

wrapped in thicl< bands so they won't nip you.) Hotd the head firmty with one
hand and with your other hand, push the tail hard away from you, then towards you, in two swift moves. This detaches the head from the body quicl<ty. (The two

parts may continue to twitch a little because of cut nerve endings, but the [obster
is not ative.)

pepper

z Putt the [arge ctaws from the head and set aside. Discard the head (or use for lobster bisque, page rz). Clean the body by removing the swim btadder, which is
attached to the middte taiI section. Hotding the body betty-side down, fan out the

tail and grasp the middte tait section between your finger and thumb. Bend it
upwards, then twist and gentty pull to remove the [ong, thin, opaque tube.
Repeat

to prepare the other lobster. Tie the tait sections together to obtain

perfect medallions (see right). 3 Put a [arge pan containing at least 3 litres of water on to boil and add the salt. Drop in the lobster bodies and claws, and boi[, attowing 3/z minutes for the tails,
up to 5 minutes for the claws. Remove and cooI a tittte. Putt the shetts from the

bodies

- it is best to do this white

they are still warm. Cracl< the claws with the

back of a heavy cook's knife, then you should be abte to putl off the shell in two parts and extract the meat in one piece; set aside. 4 Meanwhile, boit the potatoes in salted water untit iust tender. Remove and cooI a little, then peelthem white stitt warm (wearing rubber gloves to protect your hands from the heat).
5 Btitz hatf the rocl<et in a food processor with a littte of the vinaigrette, then

drizzle in the rest untiI the dressing is velvety smooth. Taste for seasoning. 6 Stice the potatoes lengthways and arrange in the centre of each serving plate. Spoon over some of the dressing. Cut the lobster tails into medatlions and arrange on top. Add the claw meat if til<ed. Drizzte over more dressing and add

the remaining rocl<et leaves. Using a swivel peeler, pare fine shavings of
Parmesan and scatter over the rocl<et leaves. Serve at once.

1O Shellfish

- -s& r. uncurL the I c ind nrp<< thpm tnocthpr :es inwards. . Tie securety e Iength with l<itchen string p thp lnh<tpr ieilc kccn rs they cool(.t &ti.- r ::. ptacing them :alI as shown...i:**i -I re :ol rC meda[[ions. !--.

1-g lj1 i" NoirLy prat is one of my secret ftavourings. Bring to the boil. cool< gently for minutes. chopped 2 [emon grass stems. of course. using a large heavy cleaver l<nife or chinese oil . adding salt to taste at this stage and cautious pinches of cayenne. Remove them with a slotted spoon and set aside. sprig r bay leaf roomI double cream generous pinch of cayenne pepper sea salt and freshly ground blacl< pepper 5i' ::i il't". soft tissue in the heads . Retain the r medium onion. finely chopped 2 carrots. garlic and lemon grass.:. tomato pur6e anc herbs. chopped r tablespoon tomato pur6e r large basil sprig r large tarragon sprig :.. sERVES z-3 AS A sTARTER shetls and heads of z lobsters 6 tablespoons otive r Chop up the lobster shetts and heads. it is a fortified wrne..lL The need a V heavy bladed knife or a Chinese chopper to cut up the she11s. ir t combination with a little Cognac. sprinl<te in the saffron if using. 4-5 check the seasoning. you. Langoustine and crab shells are suitable. saut6 for about 5 minutes untilsoftened. 3 Heat the remaining oiI in the pan. t2 Sheltfish .lobster bisque gourmet soup of leftovers. r fat garlic clove. lobster carcasses can be kept in the freezer until you want to make the bisque. too. and cook for 3o seconds. Lil<e sherrv. [arge parsley 6 Bring the strained liquor to the boit and simmer until reduced to about 5ooml. finety chopped r celery sticl< or chopped I fennet butb. Stir in the cream and bring to a gentle simmer. I often use it in r. 5 strain the liquorthrough a large sieve into another pan. so once opened it can be kept in the storecupboard. chopped generous pinch ofsaffron strands (optionat) 2 teaspoons Cognac 4 Degtaze with the cognac. This cLassic vermouth with its hint of sweet aniseed is perfect for enhancing fish and sheltfish. There. or dry vermouth r titre Fish Stocl< (page zo9) 3 plum tomatoes. Season with pepper to taste (satt won't be necessary). tomatoes. pressingthe sheils with the bacl< of a tadle to extract as much ftavour as possible. zoomt Noilly Prat.the finer you chop them. then add the Noitty prat and bubble untit reduced by half. i't i:. this wonderful bisque is light and delicate with an intense shellfish flavour. z Heat hatfthe olive oiI in a targe saucepan and saut6 the tobster shells and heads for about 5 minutes. lower the heat and simmer for zo minutes.you simply use the heads and shells of lobsters rather than throw them away. then add the vegetabtes.this adds to the flavour. the more flavour you will extract.s nothing difficult about it . Add the stocl<. Return the shetts to the pan. Serve hot.

veloutd of jerusalem artichol<es with mussels
:'ench love their terre et mer ('surf and turf') recipes that combine the flavours of the earth and sea, and this one is ...larly good. The soup can be made ahead, and the mussels steamed with wine and herbs d la marinidre iust before 9, then added along with the cooking juices. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER

r

-.'::
-

ihe otive oil in a [arge saucepan and gentty saut6 the shallots for about

3 tabtespoons olive oit

-tes until softened but not cotoured.

z [arge shaltots, finely chopped
4oog Jerusalem artichol<es

:

,'.'"irvhile, scrub the artichol<es under cold water. Add the lemon iuice to a , :'cold water. Stice the artichol<es very thinly and immediatety add them to
,

juice of r smat[ lemon zoomI dry white wine

-

ciu

lated water.

, , -:- the sha[lots are softened, drain the artichol<es and add them to the pan.
"-sn cover and sweat for ro minutes. Add hatf the wine and cool<, uncovered,
-=duced by hatf. Pour in the stocl<and bringto the boit. Season to taste,

r litre Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro)
r5oml double cream z5g butter
5oog fresh mussels

' ' :.e heat and simmer for about r5 minutes untit the vegetabtes are soft. Stir
-

:

:.eam and butter and cool< gently for a few minutes, then tal<e off the heat
cOOt.

r small onion, sliced z parstey sprigs r thyme sprig
sea salt and freshly ground btack

.:

. ,'.

3a

stotted spoon, scoop the vegetables into a food processor or btender

^ z until smooth, then gradua[[y add the stocl< through the feeder tube,
e blades stitl whirring. Pass the soup through a sieve, rubbing with the

' , -

pepper

. -'a ladte. (lf preparing ahead, cool and chitt untiI required.) -: :he mussels wetl in cotd water, discarding any that are open
. '^on er^,.,,+hn . LI lennod roppcu. Drrll I urrovvqy tiltr ha-'.lr utrdtu>,

and do not

:' : large saucepan untitscorching hot. Add the remainingwine, sliced , -d herb sprigs, then tip in the washed mussels. Cover with a tight-fitting

:

-ook for about 4 minutes, shal<ing the pan occasionatty, until the mussets

.:ered.

".,1
-

the heat, uncoverand leave untilthe mussets are coot enough to

.

fiscard anythat have faited toopen. Remove the mussets from their
a

- . ^ d set aside. Strain the pan juices into

i

lug or cup and reserve.

. ' . e. reheat the soup untit boiting, stirring in the reserved mussel juices.

. :-e

shetted mussels between four warmed bowts and pour the soup over

- :-e heat witt be sufficient to warm the mussets through. Serve at once.

lr:;ii:llr(i.jii;td1:i li:!{lili-,.1.1-iit'1.,/1 .,fiFi?ii".ii{".!i{"}.'li

nal.,.,.thanpeerthis

l<nobbty root vegetable, simply scrub the skins with a smatl vegetable (or naiL) brush. Slice

or chop the artichol<es, dropping them into a bowl of cold water acidulated with lemon juice as you do so, otherwise they wiLt discolour. Drain before cooking.

Shetlfish

73

mussels with a herb brioche crust
These make a good party canap€, or starter, and you can assemble them an hour or two ahead. Cooked mussels in their half-

shell are topped with moist, herby brioche crumbs and gratinded under a hot grill. I always use freshly cooked mussels, but you do need large ones. If you can only find smoll fresh mussels, buy about twenty of the New Zealond green-lipped variety instead

- these ore sold ready cooked

in the half-shell. lf sweet brioche from a supermarket is the only option for the crumb

topping, substitute o rich bread, such as foccacio. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER rkg large fresh mussels r Wash the mussels thoroughty, pul[ away the beards and
scrub the shells to remove any barnacles. Discard any mussels that are open and refuse to close when you tap

r sha[[ot, s]iced r smal[ glass white wine
large knob of butter
sea salt and freshly ground btack pepper

them sharply.

z Heat a large saucepan until hot, then tip in the mussets,
sliced shallot, wine, butter and seasoning. Cover with a

Topping: 2oog unsweetened brioche, crusts removed

tight-fitting Iid and

cool<

for about 5 minutes, shal<ing the

pan occasionatly. By this time the mussels shoutd have opened; discard any that are stitl closed.

3-4 tablespoons olive oit r shallot, finely chopped r thyme sprig, leaves only, finely chopped

3 Drain the mussels and leave until cool enough to handle. Remove the mussels from their shells, reserving zo-3o of the [argest hatf-shetts. 4 Meanwhile, make the topping. Btitz the brioche in a food
processor to fine crumbs, then tip them into a bowl. Heat r tablespoon olive oiI in a smatl pan and saut6 the shattot

z-3 coriander sprigs, finely chopped
1

teaspoon finely chopped chives

zog Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

for about 3 minutes until softened, without cotouring. Add
to the crumbs with the chopped herbs and Parmesan. Mix

with a forl<, adding more oil to moisten as necessary; the
crumb mixture should not be dry. 5 Put 2 or 3 mussels in each of the reserved hatf-shetls.
Sprinl<le the crumb topping over the mussels to cover them

. ; ;- t:'*'' ' Mussels that you buy are -": | .. ,".-"!." ;'*1 " 'qr ."t 4" q"-ry
cuttivated in protected areas ofthe sea bed, or grown on poLes fixed in clean sea water. Because oftheir habitat, they ingest sand and grit as they feed. Live mussets must be bought very fresh. Scrub them clean and remove any barnacles under cold water, using a stiff brush. Then, if time, put the mussels in a large bowl of clean, cold salted water, sprinkLe in a handfut of oats and set aside for a few hours. The musseLs will feed on the oats and expel any grit they contain.

comptetely and press down tightty.
6 When ready to serve, preheat a foit-tined gritl pan under a

high gritt. Lay the mussels on the gritl pan and gritt for
mussels are piping hot.

a

few minutes untiI the topping is tightty browned and the

14 Shellfish

.a

fennel salad of marinated oysters with wafer-thin
them marinated - the best of both worlds' the shell doesn't oppeal to you' then try oysters raw from eating of notion the tf then served on a crisp fennel in citrus juices with soy and sesame flavourings, For thissolad, shucked oysters are morinated marinade by hatf os much again. Use a but you,ll only need to increase the salad, To serve 4, buy twice as many oysters, LUNCH SERYES z AS A STARTER OR LIGHT mandolin or Japanese slicer to slice the fennel'

rz freshty shucl<ed oysters, rock or native (see betow), iuices reserved

r

removing any tiny fragments of shett' Check over the shucked oysters carefutly'

then chitt' Wash them carefutly in their reserved iuices'

r targe fennel bulb
about toog fris6e or wild rocl<et r tablesPoon choPPed chives (page zr8) 3 tablespoons Vinaigrette
sea salt and freshtY ground blacl<

zRemovethefrondsfromthefennelandre5erveforgarnish.Withthetipofa

from the base ofthe fennet and discard' very sharp, smatl l<nife, cut out the core tip in 3 or 4 handfuts of ice cubes' Peet away Fitt a targe bowt with cold water and a swiveI vegetable peeter' the outside ribs of the fennet butb' using then drop finely from the cored end using a mandolin' 3 Stice the fennetvery

pepper

straightintotheicedwater.Leavethefennelintheicedwaterforanhourorso;
this hetPs it to become verY crisP' dish' Add marinade ingredients together in a shattow 4 ln the meantime, mix the for about r5 minutes' the oysters and toss to mix' Leave to marinate towe[' To serve' toss the crisp the fennet and pat dry with a clean tea
5 Drain

Marinade:

r targe shallot, finetY diced
iuice of z limes iuice of /' lemon r tablesPoon dark soY sauce r tablesPoon sesame oiI few droPs of Tabasco sauce sea salt and freshtY ground btacl<
pepper

fennetwiththefris6eorrocl<et,chives,vinaigretteandseasoning'Divide

forl<' tift the oysters from the marinade between ptates. Using a stotted spoon or

andarrangethemaroundthesalad'Trickleoveratitttemarinadeandgarnish
with fenneI fronds.

T

# # hq # #ffi #'yffiT

ffi

and the more are smooth-shelled Natives (or Belons) ffigp th. t*o main species avairabie in this countrv

craggyPacificrockoysters,whichareeasiertoopen.Theclassicshort,stubbyoysterknifeisthesafestimp|ementtouse'Makesurethe a thick, fotded napkin hand and protect your other hand with
any that are not. Take the knife in one slowly but oyster she*s are tightly closed; discard hinge end showing. Keeping the oyster level' down in the croth or tea towel with the side is cut' muscle or tea towe[. Hold the oyster rounded hinge the as 'give' necessary, untir you feel a hinge, wiggting it from side to side if cutthrougn firmry stick the knife point in through the oysterto underthe l<nife the juices into a.bowl. stide up the top rtr.tr.rip outthe lnsertthe knife a bit further and twistto tift

themuscleandtakeouttheoyster.Checkthatitisfreeofsmurlpiecesofshe|l.Washtheoystersintheirownjuicethenchill'

t6

shellfish

:r -ntiI ready to cool<. for deep-frying r0.. -ake the sauce. Fry for about 1 minute.rning. : . to remove any fragments of shell that might be sticking to them. seeded and diced 8og soft brown sugar 4 tablespoons sherry vinegar :^ a stotted spoon. drain on l<itchen paper and l<eep warm. * *:at the oil in a deep-fat fryer or deep.: lut 5 minutes untiI softened but not coloured. SERVES f-+ AS A STARTER . . Repeat with the -aining oysters. f. EI :'et to a light tempura batter is to mix it at the last moment and draw ' ss cooting. ade 1 untitthe batter of freshty ground blacl< pepper r5oml tight ale or lager r5omI Perrier water Sweet and sour pepper souce: z tablespoons olive oil -s: smooth. . sift the flour and cornflour together into a large bowl and add the Whisl< in the beer and Perrier.F$mfl-S Sffi#ffiffiT we atways rinse ourshucked oysrers in their own juices. then remove r large shallot. cored. The oyster juices have a terrific flavour.a sublime Serve with the sweet and sour pepper . garnished . so we strain (and sometimes freeze) them to use in soups and sauces. (lf preparing Add '. buy ready shucked oysters from your fishmonger. 'l teaspoon fine sea salt '. cool and chitt.tem pura of oysters .-: I criso. then draw each oyster quickty through the . - :. Sheltfish t7 . with deep-fried coriander and pepper )re he 0Krn cut rt. Set aside in the rz freshly shucked oysters (see teft) olive or groundnut oil.'C.-:: < the oysters carefulty.o. zooml Chicken Stock (page zro) roomI orange juice sea salt and freshty ground black : Serve the oyster tempura at once. Pour in the stocl< and orange luice and tet bubbte untit : rz5g plain flour or'oo'pasta ftour. the art of shucking oysters. finely chopped r red pepper. Alternatively. and keep the juices ' "taster ' :o fish sauces. reheating the oit in between as necessary.:cmpanied by the dipping sauce. removing any fragments of shett. . way : . a few at a . plus extra to dust 3og cornflour -:ed by hatf.-ed right down. ': . For a - one of the fizziest sparkling waters. using a batloon whisl<. heat the otive oiI in a pan and saut6 the shatlot and pepper . Stir in the sugar and 3-4 smatt coriander sprigs. :: ::. elt.witI need to deep-fry the oysters time. Dust them tightty with a ' : flour to help the batter cling.) ' :he batter. following my instructions on the opposite page. such as large prawns and cubes of monkfish. to serve Botter: ': ring and cool< untit tightty caramelised. use freshly opened beer and Perrier the food to be coated through it lightly. :r o simple dipping sauce of naturally brewed soy sauce with a drizzle of sesame oil. return to room temperature or reheat gently to serve. The batter is ideal for other : loo. Finatty dust the ' ander sprigs tightty with ftour and deep-fry in the hot oitfor a few seconds . Add the vinegar and cook until .':er and immediately add to the hot oi[. or until white bread dropped in browns in 3o seconds. Whiz in a blender until smooth then set aside. heavy-based pan to a temperature a cube of .

ryt :::..a ry . . '' Weneverdiscardanythingthatcanbeusedtoimpartflavour. We sprinl<le this coral powder over fish dishes. or ground to a powder. rB sheitfish . then blltzed in a food processor.::l::ly ..andthatincludessca[[opcorals. risottos and creamy sauces for Dasta. lt lends a suoerb flavour.The fresh corals are spread on a sheet of bal<ing parchment and dried overnight in a very low oven untiL they are hard and brittle.

z-3 minutes on eacn side until brown and crispy on the outside curry powder and season' Heat a heavy-based '3 ran or ridged griddte untiI very hot' Add a thin fitm of oil' then ptace the (in the same order ::s in the pan.:estina[threadandmuscleattheside'Separatethecoralfromthenugget' Chitl untiI ready to cool(' a. whisking att the t - little currY Powder.d the satad. to dust zr8) fr a tittte Vinaigrette (Page & '/.:aolespoons of hot water into the dressing over the top and serve' . esh truffle (oPtion at) sea salt and freshtY ground btack pepper :^.arp. put the egg yotl<. :oif the potatoes for 5 minutes. you can simpty pite the leaves into the truffte dressing to toosen it' and spoon .. :he scallops then stack them upright in lines in containers and chill overnight firm so Vou don't need many are quite expensive' I use only hand dived served in a variety of ways. then stip your knife under the nugget of meat with away the sl<irt and remove the v skirt. and ': .: ^ ut and olive oits together tiny . Check the seasoning and set aside' oiI in a frying pan thicl< stices. then cut each scallop in half horizontatty' toss together in a bowt' and drv the salad leaves.: .::onds to l minute.satad of truffle dressed scalloPs : s taste wonderful and can be :s from scotland which are up' King scallops are very to -.tsIicesinacircteoneachservingplate. to ease it away from the shett' Putt 6-ro king sca[[oPs zoog mixed salad leaves (such as fris6e. (Atternativety. tear into pieces and mustard and seasoning -:ke the dressing. rocket. KeeP warm. Remove from the pan. about roog each otive oi[.d dry. .. Truffie dressing: . :'r the salad [eaves. if using. Heat 3 tablespoons otive as necessary' Fry in a singte layer in the r large free'range egg Yolk 1 .eaves. then cut into rcm teaspoon sherrY vinegar % teaspoon Engtish mustard Powder good Pinch offine sea salt pinch of freshty ground white peppet Tomt groundnut oiI 8omI otive oil 1 -:.Ptaceata[[cutterinthecentreand tower of '. . then drain and peelwhite stitt warm' Leave . sherry vinegar' hotd it steady' Mix the snalt mixing bowt and ptace on a damp ctoth to egg in a smatl iug and graduatty whisk into the . you can stowty tricl<te in the oit. ::se. into wafer-thin and stices' Arrange the potato slices' scallops . Drizzte any remaining Shettfish 79 . strong l<nife in between the two shelts' close to the together' Lift off : cng the hinge to sever the muscte that hotds the shetts its orange corat : shett. though they wasn when we prise them open' After cleaning' we delivered so fresh they almost pulsate person' SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL king per patm of your hand and sticl< the tip :ne scallop rounded-side down in the hinge' Work the . r the truffte oit. rest for z3 '':"whiletossthesaladleavesinatitttevinaigretteandseason'Cutthe : aced them in minutes' '' :.. in a circle' Cool<forr minute' then turn side for the pan to ensure even cool<ing)' Cook the other =: through.t6 the potato stices in batches ' . to frY a ' . untit gotden. oal< leaf lettuce' totlo bianco) 8 large Chartotte Potatoes. tightty with ': lhe scaltops teasPoon truffle scented oil . tnen carefutty tift off to [eave an impressive centre') Beat . a few drops at a time' Keep whisl<ing brisl<ty' and mal<e sure each starts to : : r of oiI is emutsified before adding more' As the dresslng it is thick' When time' .

finelY shredded 4 For the satad. Arrange the [angoustines on the satad. These cold water crustaceans are not cheap. sharp appte (Granny Smith) few basil leaves. one or two lemon segments ancl parsley sprig. peeled and segmented 4 parsley sprigs sold in individual tubes to keep them apart' They are aggressive creatures and attack each other. tricl<te a littte sauce over each one and dust very tightty with curry powder. mal<e the sauce' Put the mayonnaise bowt and mix in the ketchup. Put a To serve: spoonful of sauce in the base of each of 4 cocl<taiI glasses and scatter the satad on top. Drop in the langoustines and poach for z-3 minutes. and fish soups for to use stock flavour and make exceLtent . Repeat with the rooml Mayonnaise (Page zr9) 2 teaspoons 1 remaining langoustines' z Bring the vegetabte nage to the boit in a pan and lower the heat to a simmer. btanch we first to To make them easier handle them. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER marie-rose sauce on a shredded Cos salad. quartered '/tlemon. also called Dublin Bay our supplies prawns or scampi. ten at water. and toss to mix' Season to taste. Put in a bowt with the shattot. basil and vinaigrette.fromrto3. size z 5oomI Vegetable Nage (Page Morie-rose sauce: r Bring a large pan of water to the boit. Save the freeze them and make the stock at a later date' always You can sauces. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the shettfish to cooI in the tiquid. for 3o seconds to loosen the shells. 5 r-z tablespoons Vinaigrette (page zre) When ready to serve.Forthisreclpelusemedium-sizez. apple. 2o Shellfish .langoustine cocl<tail ubiquitous prawn. Drop in half of the zu) langoustines and btanch for 3o seconds.4refi31_*hti. Push up the heads. but they have the most wonderful sweet flavour' serve them simply with a mayonnaise-style are from west scotland. then prawns for langousfines.$qfdi{f}#ST*ff. ro[[ up the Cos lettuce [eaves and shred fairty finety. then crack the top of the tail shetl with the back of a knife. so the tail meat remains intact. I buy fresh langoustines.these are futl of meat from the tait end and it shouLd pop out perfectly peeled and in one piece. Cognac and Tabasco to taste. Remove the blacl< intestina[ line that runs atong the bacl< of each one. As they are easier to shelt white stilt hot. a pinch of mild curry Powder r cherry tomato. Serve at once. Garnish each cocl<tailwith a cherry tomato quarter. You can substitute raw tiger This is my ultimate prawn cocktail! Rather than use the zo fresh langoustines.% Lungorstinesaresordliveinsizes. I poach the langoustines gently in a vegetable nage. we peel the langoustines as soon as we can pu1 the head from the bodv..* 9". shells and legs . Worcestershire sauce. remove the langoustines from the sea salt and freshty ground btacl< pepper nage with a stotted spoon and season tightty. about in boiling the langoustines peet. tomato ketchuP teasDoon Worcestershire sauce r tablespoon Cognac few drops ofTabasco Salad: r baby Cos or Little Gem lettuce r tablespoon finety diced shallot r tablespoon diced crisp. so top quality langoustines are often a time. in a 3 Meanwhite. then immediately drain and peel (see betow).

{.:W. flake it over a metal tray. lf there are any shetl fragments you wilt hear the sound as they fall on the metal. 22 Shettfish . To check that the white crab meat is free from shell.d ?rdf ? :.W'{*.:'*t: E:b#fiffi3"r'ffi %W.

.oon finety chopped gherl<ins ' the parstey.espoon chopped parsleY Shetlfish 23 . using an awt (or small ice picl<). attowing about ro minutes.::. with the sauce. Remove and cool. using pincers or ptiers. rub the egg yotl< and white through a sieve with the bacl< of a ladte' l<eeping them separate. the brown crab meat into both sides of the cleaned crab shelt. each 5oo-6oo9 r lf using live crabs. Toss with a forl< to mix. do not overcool<. checl< the claws are well secured with strong bands.ed and hatved .1ger or supermarket fresh fish counter and prepare them yourself (fotlowing the illustrated technique overleaf). coriander and seasoning. Check the seasoning. To prepare the empty shelts for serving. 6 To serve. Otherwise I recommend that you buy freshly cooked crabs from . Garnish with lines of chopped parsley. ::ops ofTabasco the crabs into a large pan of boilingwaterorCourt Bouillon (page zo8) and boit. OR z AS A LIGHT MAIN COURSE t 3 '':sh :3 crabs. u *: *::' . then in a steady stream (as if you were mal<ing a mayonnaise).scoon Diion mustard -' sunftower or light olive oil i: espoon white wine vinegar ' :s roon finely chopped caPers e '€. inctuding the sieved egg.ed ::j. if you possibty can. hard-boiled. " i-ran ge eggs.. : r i:. rather with : ready dressed crabs.oon chopped tarragon t 'r'e: '3e free-range egg. th'en spoon the white meat into the centre. roon chopped parsley !oon chopped chervil . piting it up wett.' n the remaining ingredients. mal<e the sauce. stir in att of :sDoon choPPed ParsleY :s i Doon chopped coriander ' r :alt and freshly ground PePPer -:€.dressed crab with sauce gribiche : l. l(eeping the white and meat separate (as described overleaf). brown 3 Prepare the fresh crabs and extract the meat. juice. pierce the main nerve centre point behind the eyes repeatedty (from different angtes) to l<itt it. Wash the shett thoroughty and dry well. remove the thin undershett by cutting along the natural line. 5 Ftake the white meat and add the r-z tablespoons of mayonnaise. buy live crabs. set aside. x si your ::imum flavour. Tabasco 4 Put the brown meat into a blender with the breadcrumbs. hard-boiled. and roughly chopped . I prefer to flavour the white and dark meat before spooning it back into the shells. then chitt (this r l'ops of Worcestershire sauce 'sets'the meat and mal<es it easier to extract).sf. : :ablespoons MaYonnaise : i3e zt9) 1 z Meanwhile. . Mix the raw egg yoll< with the mustard and some seasoning in a bowt. Then lay :'eferably [ive) ine fresh breadcrumbs each crab on its bacl< and. and whiz very briefty to mix.:sf. : rspoons chopped capers :sspoons finety chopped gherl<in i:. cover and chitl until ready to serve. sieved egg white and yotl< (as shown). Rub the hard-boited eggs through a sieve into a bowt using the bacl< of a ladle. -:eze of [emon iuice r. lemon and worcestershire sauce. SERYES + AS A STARTER. Graduatty whisl< in the oit. drop by drop to begin with. :4 . Put a spoonful of caper and gherl<in mixture on each portion of brown meat. season with salt and pepper.serve -ty ' L cread or toasted countrv-stvle bread.r i :-ra n ge egg yotl< q .. Serve at once. Ptunge . Mix the chopped capers and gherl<in together' 7 Spoon :3spoon anchovy essence :s : s .

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place the mackerel sl<in-side down on the gritI racl< and brush with a tittte otive oil. (This hetps the layers to set.4'it" i. Line the insides with the aubergine slices. drained zoog pitted blacl< olives z tablespoons drained capers r fat garlic clove. Place on a small tray. set aside to coo[.s must feel firm. Line two large teacups or similar shaped zoomt moutds with cting film. cover the base with a tayer of potato stices. Add the potato slices in an even layer and cool< gently for about rz minutes until softened.i f V { flil i. preheat a ridged griddte (or gritt) until very hot. Mett the butter in a shaltow pan over a low heat and continue to heat slowty for z-3 minutes to about roooc. Next press a tayer of macl<erel ftakes on top. cool< the aubergine stices on the griddte in batches for z-3 minutes. of course. which is a great shame because it has a good ftavour and an excellent texture. then top with a layer of potato. Demould the aubergine cups. then cut into rcm thicl< stices. 4 Now assemble the moulds. tota[ (preferably Desir6e or Chartotte) z5og butter. turning to colour both sides. season and sprinkte with chopped herbs. crushed r tablespoon extra virgin otive oit I I'l I. z Pee[ the potatoes. Remove the potato stices from the butter and drain on l<itchen paper. 28 Fish . weight down and refrigerate for a few hours. season with salt and pepper and tricl<te over the [emon juice. and press down tightty. cover with a board. overtapping them stightty and bringing the slices up over the sides (to attow sufficient overhang to cover the top). you need to choose mackerel that is very fresh . heat the gritt to high.a mandolin or Japanese slicer is the best implement to use. lndividual sized cups look equaLly stunning. Gritt for about 5-7 minutes untitthe ftesh feets firm. Repeat these layers twice more. remove the ctingfitm and place on a board or serving plate. Transfer to a shattow dish and drizzle tightty with otive oit. about 3oog in r 5lice the aubergine [engthways as thinty as possibte .l" { rtti Ll g r- {i.". Discard the end pieces.the ftesh r large aubergine olive oit. cut into slices and serve with the tapenaoe and coarse sea salt. ser aside to cool. 5 Fotd the overhanging aubergine slices over to cover the top. and it. whiz the tapenade ingredients in a food processor until smooth.no more than roomlcapacity as the starter is quite rich. to drizzle z large waxy potatoes.*i. about r5og each juice of r lemon r tablespoon chopped coriander r tablespoon chopped basiI sea salt and freshly ground blacl< pepper Tapenade: 5og can anchovy fi[[ets.) 6 shortty before serving. SERVES 6 As A STARTER not expensive. then brush to coat a[[ over. or preferably overnight. Use tiny ramekins or similar moulds . then remove the skin and divide the fish into ftal<es.macl(erel and confit potato in aubergine cups Fresh mackerel is an underrated fish. 3 Meanwhile. press down lightly. diced 6 large mackereI filtets.

. "5k. you can :'i ar elfect by gritting the aubergine slices dry.. tntil eT. then using a red hot sl<ewer to marl( scorch lines before drizzling with oil.1:. the bergine slices are cooked dry (without oil) on a griddle over a high heat untiI charred and caramelised. \-' ct(te I . ''fr -a. 'n r for untit )oard satt. {.. 5n )oc.\ -' . ai: w.ir. The oiL imparts flavour and heips to soften the aubergines as they coo[. then drizzled and allowed to cool. Alternatively.1 s erVN . i i Caramelised aubergine slices give these attractive cups a unique flavour.^l l...t: . :. Fish 29 . : . '' '| l.'tlt. ltr.a.t5 R . To intensify their flavour.

Serve the baked red snopper with lemon wedges and a garLicky moyonnaise. Wffir. as steam must be attowed to escape if the sl<in is to crisp. then pour on the remaining salt to cover the whole fish. z Lay a large sheet of foit in a shallow roasting tin. Don't seaI the foit over the top. The whole fish is encased in salt. The ftesh witl be moist and luicy. Serve with [emon wedges and garlic mayonnaise. Wash the fish and shal<e to remove excess water. Press the satt up against the sides ofthe fish. flat-teaf parsley lernon wedges Garlic Mayonnaise (page zr9) 3 Bal<e for zo minutes. Carefutty transfer the fitteted fish to a serving platter and garnish with flat-teaf parstey. then scrunch up the edges of the foit to hold it in place. which protects it from the intense heat of the oven. Spread hatf the salt on the foil to mal<e a bed.W:XWffi W&%W &W Wcool< 3 o Fish . then remove from the oven and leave to stand for ro minutes. doesn't taste salty. but this clever Mediterranean baking technique overcomes the problem. to reveal a oerfectlv cooked fish. 4 Peet off the sl<in. which witt be easy to remove. You need a fish with scales intact. about 8oog-rl<g. The satt forms a brittle coating that is easily broken away after baking. and one that has been gutted neatly so the opening can be pinched together to prevent salt seeping inside. The result is superb. succulent fish that. fins. Scatter the To remaining herb sprigs over the fish. but leave the sl<in moist. surprisingly. such as snapper or sea bream. SERVES z-3 AS A MAIN D|SH r red snapper. Breal< off the crisp satt layer. Gas 7. then stide a long palette l<nife underneath the fish and carefutty tift it on to a board. seals in the juices ond crisps the skin. Remove the whote sketeton and fittet the fish underneath. with head.WWffiT rhis is an exceLrentwayto ovenwhole flsh. scatter over hatf of handful of thyme or rosemary sprigs serve: the herb sprigs and place the fish on top.snapper baked in a salt crust Oven-roasted fish hos a tendency to be rather dry. tait and scales intact Z5og coarse sea salt r Heat the oven to zzooC. ffiMW {. and filtet the fish neatty to the bone.

but not too meaty. John Dory. Rott the chicory in the sugar until evenly coated.^e woy. :cgether. creamy tomato sauce infused with s : spice with many surprises. often season white fish with a curry spiced salt to enhance the flavour. Fish 31 . to fan out. Mixing the curry powder or other powdered spice with salt enables you to appty a tight. it needs to :. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN D|SH z John Dory . then whisl< ---'. : --ner for z minutes.l*qffiErffi T#ffi w.. Pour in the stock.ien yellow.. each rzog. {:. . -: .. . sl<inside for no r5omI doubte cream 5og butter.'ith a sharp : Sai.. Heat the remaining oit in a frying pan and fry the fish. with sl<in -. sugar and cardamom seeds.els to neaten if necessary and set aside. it has nothing to do with a person.::ingwith the bacl<of a [adte. lf possible.: - rghtty.ohn Dory with a tomato and cardamom sauce ' : 'sh. powder with r/z teaspoons fine sea satt and sprinl<le over the fish teaspoons caster sugar . -. The flesh is good to eat . Flip over carefully and cool< the other : -1rn utes. Larger fish give better fillets and although it is not a flat fish like sole. season and cool<. sed. Lay the fish on top. then pepper . Sauce: 5 cardamom pods 4oog vine-ripened tomatoes.lCe afOUnq.eandsetaside. Season and set arm.'''n. uncovered. diced sea salt and freshly ground blacl< ':: z-3 minutes. . :: . '-: : . halved z teaspoons sherry vinegar 2 roiI and cool<forro minutes untiI reduced by hatf. Pour in the in the butter pieces. not least the way it goes so well with tomato.'.-':. the colour of the sheen on the skin when - . Pass though a sieve into a I teaspoon mild curry powder fine sea salt '. '-: chicory.::'v Lengthways and trim the root end. " ee John Dory fillets are served with caramelised chicory and a fresh. Place on the centre of warmed plates and press tricl<[e over any pan juices. Whiz the tomatoes in a btender or food processor : ga:. :. In fact.' . then lay each halfon a chopping board and slash l<nife.:"-der when pressed and the stocl< has totally reduced.ive oil in a sha[low pan and fry the chicory on both sides untiI r large head of chicory 4-5 tablespoons caster sugar 5 . -ake the sauce. leaving it partty intact to fillets.'. even sprinkling and avoids'cLumping'. Split open the cardamom pods with your finger . until the tablespoons otive oil Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) . about zo 3ooml Fish Stock (page zo9) or -.'-:cl the seeds. but is an English corruption of the French jaune the fish is freshly caught.. ask your fishmonger to do this for you.

I' I t. You'lI find the saffron flavour permeates the fish and the skin cool<s to a deep gotden red cotour.. # . then sprinkle with saffron strands and rub with your fingertips..llt %.'r.: i' ' .:i€':t': .. i''' ###BOT_TEXT###quot;. -. Leave to infuse for 5 minutes.. or so. fo impart a deiicate f lavour.'.t!€. l. l:l i..ii" :.. drizzle a little otive oilon to the red mu{let sl<in. .

epper mayonnaise with a littte water if necessary and drizzte serving. this eye-catching dish makes an inviting starter or chic light meal. removing any lf the fittets are [arge. . get your . . :" 'r:atouiIte atong with the remaining red pepper. and chopped ':i3S0nlng. cut the 4 fillets in half crossways.: : ^s of the remaining oiI in a frying pan and gently saut6 the softened. Remove and set aside z red peppers. ptus extra to drizzle large pinch of saffron strands ^= '-sh. -3 on a tray. Set aside.viLi continue to cool< as it rests. or z larger ones about 5oog each. seeded and finety chopped ':: : f. . Turn the fish over and remove the . Trim to neaten. :-e tomato in a bowl of boiting water for a few seconds. lf using two larger fish.^-e condition.ish co unter to do so for you. add the frying pan over a high :: . many are caught in our own . inwards in a slight curve. sl<in-side down.. Rub to adhere and set aside to infuse for 5-ro minutes.:rd cook for 5-ro minutes untiI the vegetabtes are tender. seeded and finely chopped zoog Mayonnaise (page zr9) r yellow pepper.. Heat a large heavy-based . cored. cut each in two crossways. Buy whole flsh and filtet them yourself (following the instructions below). . finety chopped r large plum tomato r tablespoon chopped basit sea salt and freshly ground blacl< ' : . Place 4 smatl red multet about z5og each.ile between warmed plates ':: to tail along the backbone. then :3e skin. Although we tend to regard them as a Mediterranean species.'r. I like to enhance their attractive red-pink skins with saffron (see below). Mixthe saffron strands with z tabtespoons otive oil fitteted (see betow) r5oml olive oit.^ites untitthe sl<in is reatly crispy. or .. Serve the rest separatety. Add to -: stlr untit well btended.nerm salad of saffron red mullet with ratatouille . Halve. skim it across the bones to detach the fillet... The fish wil[ be three-quarters cool<ed when you i- : '.espoons oil in rs hot. With a sharp fitleting knife. Red mullet are increasingly on :.:: -. Fish 33 . deseed.- second fillet in this way.:voLlrs. . Starting at the head end and keeping the knife flat. 'i:. and top with the red muttet f. Add the chopped courgette and -: r large courgette. pepper ::!K. and cool< on this side Yffi ffi$$-LffiY ffiffiffi ffiffi$-ft-ffiT Lay the fish on a board and bend 5 minutes.use to make stock.eppers in a food processor until smooth and creamy. :. slit the skin from head . eezers.: z tablespoons olive oiI in a saucepan and gentty saut6 the :::'s for about 5-7 minutes until softened. finely chopped r medium aubergine. Tal<e the pan off the heat . r 5 a S-ARTER OR LIGHT MEAL - - er filLets carefutty with your fingertips for pin bones. Don't discard the bones and heads . . core and finety chop the tomato .sermarkets.: ':- filtets.. season the red muttet fittets with satt and pepper. then cut across just below the head to the backbone. about 5 minutes. cored.

between the flesh and and run u sharp medium knife Grasp the skin with satted fingers knife at a slight angle' to separate blade against the sl<in and the dmr #l# the skin. z-3 minutes to reach this temperature' the oit' fittets so they are submerged in 3 Lower in the fish shoutd poach not fry' then turn the heat to low . Transfer them to a ptate and leave to handte. then ftake using a fork' salt and trout into a bowl and season with 5 Tip the ffaked crEme fraiche pepper to taste' Add the chopped coriander' moisten with a and lemon iuice to taste' lf til<ed' oit' Spoon into tablespoon or two of the poaching ramel<ins.thenflakeandpressintoramekinstomakeareallysimple anddeliciousstarter.q}iiflifi l"t*}"fq. off the crusts bread starts the until and bake for about ro minutes these thin siices on a baking sheet toasts These cool' they the slices wilf crisp up as to curt.trr'.{"}Llt4.Melba-stylesourdoughtoasts'SERVES6ASASTARTER about 5oog fresh trout fittets' skinned (see betow) oit 3oomt tight olive z tabtesPoons choPPed coriander z tabtesPoons crdme fraiche generous squeeze of temon iuice btack sea salt and freshtY ground pepper (see sourdough toasts. cover and chi[t' drffi.trout rittettes in olive oil Poachfresh.i.il.. "[. stitt betow) springY to the touch' from the oit and drain on kitchen 4 Lift the trout fitlets untiI cooI enough paper. removing frying pan over a mediumz Heat the otive oit in a medium it wilt tal<e about low heat to a temperature of loooC.meatytroutfilletsinoliveoil.l:til$li'iflq1{}1"9'j'tr1ilf^?-tY$ Lavthetroutfittet'skin-sidedown'ona boardandmakeacutatthetailendsoyoucanliftthefittetslightlyfromthesl<in. .:bT# pale gorden brown on both sides' cut toart tightty untir stices ofsourdough bread.il.u.s. hctdingthe the fillet.i. to serve by running your r Check the trout filtets for pin bones any with tweezers' fingertips over the flesh. Cool siightty before serving in an airtight contalner' can be prepared ahead and kept 34 Fish .the fish Cool< are tightty for 4-5 minutes untit the trout fittets pinl< in the centre' and tightty cotoured on the outside. rnfrr' toasts' 6 Serve the trout rittettes with sourdough fle .{tfr . m p"n'ut oven to 17ooc' Gas 3' cut 6 medium h.na in two' Place n"uiftniie' split each stice horizonially fong u using then.servewithcrisp..

. because it looks so temptinq. chopped :spoons olive oiI and the remaining butter in a pan and saut6 the rinute or two.. heat a non-sticl< frying pan untit hot and add . Add the shattots . sl<in-slde up.s oLive oil.. The ftesh shoutd be tightty springy when . then score the : . Set aside. Strain through a sieve.:.te the [ardons for and herbs. leaving a rcm border at the edges. and cool< until softened and carametised. for :es untitthe tiquid is totally reduced and the carrots are gtazed. uncovered. Set . tablespoons port rzoml red wine 4ooml Fish Stock (page zo9) 5oomI Chicl<en Stock (page zro) -:^eat the sauce.iust wilted. Fry the satmon. Add :<en stocl< or water and a little seasoning. heat a large. then add the wine and cool< until reduced by -^. cf sweet. '". peeled 5og butter ..'. and pour over the sauce. Simmer. sl<in (see betow) 4 thicl<-cut salmon fillets. set aside. i sauce. I serve the fish with its crisp-fried skin uppermost. 'r: lulienne.::. Worl<ing across the grain of the sl(in.r..:J*ASAMAINDISH -on fitlets to neaten if necessary. sl<in-side down.ith salt and pepper. about roomI Chicken Stocl< (page zro) or water 4-5 tablespoons olive oil about zoog baby spinach leaves sea salt and freshly ground blacl< :gLaze with the port. make shallow cuts just though to the flesh at 5mm intervals. about r4og each z carrots. pressing :. until ::f. for 3 minutes. pepper Souce: 3 tablespoons otive oil roog [ardons or diced smol<ed bacon arm. untit.pan-fried salmon with bacon and red wine sauce ' ::. Remove from the heat and season: -= salmon filtets. Drizzle a littte olive oiI around the - S ffi f i 9$ $"{ '. "f-{} il# fr Fish 35 . Lay a salmon fillet.i $4: fi Fr$ u se a razo r-s harp kn ire.rr in the two stocl<s and add pepper to taste. Place a mound ofspinach in the centre ofeach ':: . finety chopped z fat garlic cloves.. uncovered. young clrrots. wide pan untiI reatly hot. r large or 3 small sha[tots. about r5-zo minutes.) Bring to the boit and simmer. rther side for r-z minutes.. s u ch as a craft knife or scalpet.:son lightty. :^ a Littte pile of carrot julienne. then add the olive oil a minute or two untiI browned.. cut the carrots into [ong thin slices. (you won't need salt with the ardons are satty. especially if you accompany it with buttered spinach ^.:'t enough to take a smoky bacon and red wine sauce. Flip over r thyme sprig r rosemary sprig r bay leaf 3 -. then into very thin -:tf the butter in a pan and saut6 the carrots for a minute or so. on top <e and serve immediatelv.

split r lemon. (lf possibte. cut into 5 slices about 8 large lettuce leaves. Firm flesh is a good indicator . juicy cod fillets are steamed over water that is intensely flavoured with o medley of spices. NaturallU the fish must be very fresh and thickly cut. about r Check the cod fittets for any residual bones by running your fingertips over the flesh. then lower the heat and simmer for ro minutes. unwrap the cod. Place the cod on top and season with salt and pepper. leave them wrapped in the r75-zoog each r. Bring the water and r large bay leaf 3 shallots. The steqm permeates the fish to impart a delicate. Take off the heat and set aside to infuse for an hour or so. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH 4 thick-cut cod fi[[ets. pull them out with your fingers or thin ptiers. Serve with Whote Spice Basmati Pitaff (page ro3) or ptain few rosemary sprigs tight otive oi[. parstey. thyme. cover and cool< the fish fittets for 4-6 minutes. Drizzle with otive oil. vanilla pod and lemon stices. /zhead garlic r vanilla pod. fresh herbs and aromatics.aromatic steamed cod fittets Thick. 3 When ready few large thyme sprigs to cook. then use chunkV hqke. sliced aromatics bacl< to the boit. refrigerate and use within a couple of days. to [ine steamer few small basilsprigs few tarragon sprigs 4 Fit the steamer over the pan of simmering water. check that the ftesh feets firm when pressed. Wrap the fittets tightty in cting fitm and chitt. To test. Bring to the boit. Lift the fish filtets on to warmed ptates.5 litres water 5 star anise r cinnamon stick ro cardamom pods ro cloves fridge overnight to set the shape.) z Put the water into a large pan that witt tal<e a [arge steamer. but take care as steam can easily scatd. to drizzle sea salt and freshly ground blacl< boited rice. But if you con't find the best cod. bay [eaf. lfyou feel any. pepper l5 Fish . The steaming water can be re'used: simply strain to remove the flavourings. r-z tablespoons pink or Sichuan peppercorns targe handful of parsley sprigs shallots. haddock or sea bass ftllets instead. and vegetables ofyour choice.flesh that appears to be separating into flakes is beginning to stale. tarragon and rosemary. lingering flavour thot is quite sensational. garlic. Line the base of the steamer with lettuce leaves and scatter with the basi[. Add att the spices.

.1. turning often.t* salad of seared tuna with a saut6 of treviso I use a portion cut from the tail end of a whole tuna loin for this dish and marinate it overnight.ii:i:t r. remove and set aside to rest while you cool< the treviso. and smear a[[ over the steal<s. in a smol<ing hot pan. you can use ready sliced tuna steqks. Dust the treviso liberatty with sifted icing sugar..:. Place 6-8 tablespoons cracl<ed blacl< pepper 4 smal[ heads of treviso (red chicory) or radicchio icing sugar.. to dust cut-side down in the pan and cool< for about r-tl/z minules. This simple technique really improves the texture of this meaty fish. 5 Divide the treviso between warmed serving plates. : l-:t:'. about rzog each and rcm thicl< rooml olive oil z tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 tuna. then drizzte with the remaining olive oil. teaspoon clear honey 2 teaspoons soy sauce 3 Heat r tabtespoon of the remaining otive oiI in a [arge frying pan until very hot and fry the tuna steal<s over a high heat for 45 seconds .. 11. Sear.-jlii:. . turning often.:1. quartered and place atongside.. untitjust wilted and caramelised.r r.. Then sprinl<te generously with sifted icing sugar and drizzle with otive oi[. This is a great technique lor sweetening bitter leaves. preferably freshly cut r lf necessary. Hatve small heads of treviso..1t1. . sifted. Remember to bring it back to room temperature about half an hour before cooking. : i. until they caramelise on the surface and start to wilt. 4 Preheat a large heavy-based frying pan until atmost smoking. to serve as a warm salad. Simply scatter thinly pared strips of orange and lemon zest over the tuna and sprinkle with coarse rock salt. and cool<. then wrap in cling film and leave in the fridge overnight. Set aside while you cool< the from the toin (tait end). radicchio or white chicory Lengthways and set aside for 5-ro minutes to attow the bitter juices to exude.. I 8 Fish . Shal<e the pepper on to a sheet of greaseproof paper and press the steal<s in the pepper untiI evenly coated. trim the tuna steal<s. Mix hatf the otive oit with the mustard. li. I .a :t-i:. SERVES 4AS A MAIN DISH 4 tuna steal<s. Squeeze over lemon juice to taste and drizzle over any pan iuices to serve. honey and soy sauce.r minute on each side. Alternatively. as long as they are neatly trimmed and of even thickness. Cut each tuna steal< in half r [emon. cut-side down. z Trim the ends of the treviso and stice in hatf lengthways.

press the flesh with the back of a fork.Season and set aside. Add the wine and cool< untiI and simmer gently for ro-r5 minutes hatf the stock and bring to the boit.lli.pan-fried bream with ceteriac veloute Gitt. To check that it is cool<ed. is a versatile fish that can pur6e of celeriac' veloutd style sauce.uncovered. divide the spinach between warmed on top and surround with the celery and sauce. trimmed 5og babY leaf sPinach sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< pepper rubbing with the bacl< of a tadte' Add the through a fine sieve bacl< into the pan' Season and set aside' cream and bubbte gentty for z minutes' quarter of into thin batons' about 6cm tong' Heat a 4 Meanwhile.. Serve immediatetY' 4o . Set aside in the fridge' I smatl ceteriac zToma|<ethesauce.frythespinachforr-zminutesuntitjustwilted. removing or your fingertips.untiIthefteshfeelsfirm'Removeandleavetorestwhi[eyou i: I i. about z5og in totat z tabtesPoons otive oil. leaves ontY zoog giroItes (or chantereltes).peetthece[eriacandcutintosmattdice.Hatveorquarter[argerones'Heathatftheremainingbutterwith r tablespoon otive oit in a a high frying pan' When hot' saut6 the giroltes over remaining the remove from the pan' Add heat for about 3 minutes' Season and buttertothepanandstir. Never overcook fish' To preserve plates and spoon over a littte serve. a smooth sauce' Strain adding stocl< from the pan until you have graduatty 9og butter roomI drY white wine 6ooml Fish Stocl< (Page zo9) or Chicl<en Stocl< (Page zro) rooml double cream z smatl heads celerY. Plus extra to cool< fish r thyme sPrig. whiz' transfer the celeriac to a food processor and 3 With a slotted spoon. cut the cetery theremainingbutterandrtablespoonoliveoilinapanandsaut6thecelerywith thethymeleavesfor5minutes. Spoon the hot sauce over the vegetables' uncovered. cover untit the ceteriac is soft. This helps protect the flesh and gives the sl<in a crisp texture and inviting colour. cook side of the fish and coor< for f.don'tatlowtobrown. skin-side up' leaving the fish sl<in girottes. then pour in a thin fitm of olt' Quicl<ty for 3-31 minutes. lt should feel just flrm with a very stight'give'. ilrit !rit'r:i l. or dorade.Pourintheremainingstoc|< andsimmer.1 reheat the sauce and celerY' 7 To their deticate texture. l<eeP warm' 6Tocool<thefish. thickened with a braised celery SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DlSH a delicate or full flavoured sauce' Here it served teaming it with girolles To add to the earthy feel' I suggest take js with a and about 4 gilt-headed bream filtets' rzog each any that you find with tweezers r Trim the fish and checr< for pin bones. 90% of the cool<ing time should be on the sl<in side."i" '. then turn and otace sr<in_side down in the pan.j i'i 3osecondsorso.heatanon-sticl<fryingpanuntityoucanfeetagoodheat season the ftesh rising. Place the bream.headed bream.forrominutesoruntilsoftened'Drainifnecessary'and season with satt and PePPer' drain in a colander and pat dry with Rinse the girotles quicl<ty in tepid water' 5 |(itchenpaper.Heat3ogbutterin a[argesaucepanancgentlysaut6theceteriacforabout5minutesuntittightty it evaporates' about 3 minutes' Pour in browned.

4-5 lemon grass stems. stit in hatf tengthways 4 star anise 1 ' . Scatter the herbs. and for ru Fish 47 . (lLlustrated overLeaf) SERVES z AS A MAIN D|SH ". . and on both sides. ' :-e foil squares on a worl< surface. Rub the skin pepper. lemon grass rf rith ock rd . scaled and gutted pat dry. Drizzle with a tittte more otive oil and tucl< the [emon stices . Place the foiI parcet in a roasting . Unwrap the sea bass parcel atthetable and spoon the tasty . thickly sliced and caramelised (see overleaf ) sea salt and freshty ground blacl< pepper ' .s€a bass bal<ed on a bed of herbs '- tle recipe. two fish and cook them in separate foil parcels. oven I l50n '-rm the oven and leave the fish to rest. . stitt wrapped. inside and out. mal<ing sure the central blood lines are washed r whole sea bass. le . Tear off two large sheets of foil. :es over the fish as vou serve it.e from the heat.it is simply divine. The cooking juices make the accompanying sauce. allowing cool< the fish.ty with the other square of foit and fotd the edges together should form a roomy tent around the sea bass. but the flavours are superb. Lay the fish in the pan seal and crisp the sl<in handful of rosemary sprigs handfut of thyme sprigs handfut of tarragon sprigs handfuI of basiI sprigs handful of sage sprigs '. plus extra to drizzle 4 bay teaves '-d season with salt and *r:'n square and set aside.sroon oil in a large heavy-based frying pan. for 5-ro minutes . You don't need To :-e herbs listed below.am to surround and r large lemon. rh -re foil teaspoon mixed peppercorns -:. . Gas 4.srde in a cooI place to infuse for r-z hours untiI ready to cook. en. : . :9.t''r toor. Farmed sea bass is widely :'efer to buy naturolly caught fish that has a greater depth .about zo minutes untiI the fish is onty just cool<ed.:r the centre of the foiI sheet and lay the whole sea bass on the :=:.uy of flavour and looks so beautiful. about Soog-rl<9.. '-e oven to r8ooC. :e :r of the fish wett. with the tip of a very sharp l<nife. but use at least four of them. A whole sea bass is cooked on a lavish bed of herbs in a sealed foil . Score the = :aiI and fins using scissors. t:s r tablespoon olive oil. . Don't failto savour the full aroma as you open the parcel . 'or about 3o seconds on each side to -' :. Put the roastingtin in the centre ofthe ': .

| arourd the edges.' .e.r 5: t e^) l e. r. . :t. '= '.o ri: ''r.ir. ..?:. dt c rai<es on a different characie * \e Y-' * . !.-.r ::i .. r :: -. .t l irey begin to aatafle t.iL\/ :r :: -.!:- : : : :iia.5 -r:'. ycLL will find ihe ..1'.:1.1 i!.:ll .: S."t' :. 4i f ry t lffi 'l -.. 'i:1 i:{.. :::.aa Sea :r:ri ai fi-Cfe CCmple)r.i' .t .-'c ty' lJ!o.ii ."! ]ii iuias L..e t[ \re oii fo'e fe. :l -l :i Sea..i i [emon 5i]ces witli a . .... .

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.| @ ffi Fish 45 . Fittet the monl<fish by removing the central bone to give two ::.. remove '^ a slotted spoon and refresh in cold water.'eanwhite. atlowing r minute. serve. de the creamyvegetables between warmed serving plates and arrange the r'-'na-wrapped monkfish on top.this helps . ln recent years this superb. Drain and set aside. then cut into 8 thick pieces. meaty fish has become :singLy popular and as demand exceeds supply. "g a sharp l<nife. mal<ing about z tablespoons olive oil 5og butter z5omI double cream sea salt and freshly ground black :. Have ready a large bowl of iced water. a* -i anch the carrots and celeriac in boiting satted water for z minutes. Wrap the parcet tightty ' :-e shape. Heat the butter and olive oiI in a frying pan until foaming.'. i. ii is completely covered.7 ': = . -en ready to cool< the fish.) - a:t::ta:: -F-'.11: . : -:.1.lll#.e - the huge.2* '::t:23 ::. Season to taste and :<for 3 -l rz minutes.{*ltli. '.5og sliced Parma ham z large carrots .:..eriac film. cool<. (You can do this a day in advance. Twist the ends '.fillets. cel.:::-: ham slices. Put the wrapped monkfish parceI in a steamer over boiling water.r. pour the cream into a [arge saucepan. preheat the oven to r8ooC. Tal(e out of the steamer and leave to rest for 5 minutes. You will also need to the outer grey membrane. like me. then shred the cabbage finely. the Parma -:g :::. Gas 4 (see right). on a surface lined with a sheet /..1 '.'1" rrvou find it more convenient to cool< this dish entirety on the hob (and. . - . Remove from the oven leave to rest in a warm place for 5 minutes.drain again. . . Wrap the Parma ham around the monl<fish. :=ei and dice the carrots and celeriac. you are happy to use cting film as a wrapping for steamed food) try the following method . '. 5-6 minutes untilthe fish is just firm. in cling film.' ':d [eaves. Quarter the cabbage and remove the pepper . turning frequently. but head to taiI end.ita :::*ta .. Cut out the core. turning. Bring a large pan of water to the boil.X. lt is the tail that we eqt 'Ced. -. :. then tie at intervats with string -oLd the shape. then remove the cling fitm.: i"i .-ove the cling film from the monl<fish parce[. Place the two monl<fish fittets in the middte. Here the monkfish fillets are wrapped in Parma ham and served SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DlSH :ed of creamy cabbage with diced celeriac and carrots.q-3 :" l :?Vil:t: .. about 6oo9 about r. Refresh in iced water. using a very sharp knife. drizzle overthe pan juices and in the oven for ffi ffi :--i# . bony head is fillets. : .. add the monl<fish parceI and pan-fry.:. for 3-4 minutes until cooked.: _-. if not the most expensive fish that you can buy. Heat the olive oil and butter in a frying pan and when it '-3ins to foam...it worl<s briltiantty. Blanch the --:dded cabbage in the same way.. bring to the boit and allow to role untiI reduced by hatl then mix into the vegetables. laying them side by small Savoy cabbage :..:s possible.j:':at? . cover and steam for 4 5 minutes.ninutes untiI browned all over.. remove the string from the fish parcet. stightty overlapping.monl<fish in Parma ham on creamed Savoy cabbage 'ish is now one of. Iower in the monl<fish parceI and -* . The central cartilaginous bone that runs the length of the taiL is removed to give two . so the price rockets. remove as much of the thin grey membrane that covers the r monkfish tail. ilt]itir *.'. for : -i :st the monl<fish parceI into an ovenproof dish.e cling film to tighten ihe wrapping and chitt for at least r hour .

3 Ptace the sole sl<inned-side uppermost on a board and insert the stems of the herb cloutes into the fish. Bal<e for 8-ro minutes. then remove the darl< skin and heads from the sole. SERVES z AS A MAIN D|SH z Dover soles. For this dish I spike the It is best served 1sh with herb cloutes. Meanwhite' heat the butter in a smatl pan untiI metted and foaming. you can use expensive. cook it briefly on a griddle. then roast the fish in foaming butter. Wash the fish gentty and pat dry. Scatter the bay leaves and thyme sprigs on top of the fish and drizzte over the white wine. pepper 4 Pour the foaming butter into a large bal<ing tin and lay the Dover soles in the tin. untitthe ftesh feels firm and flakes easily from the bone. .d* h 46 Fish . Heat the otive oiI in a large frying pan or ridged griddte pan and panfry the fish for 3o seconds on each side. If Dover sole is unavailable t lemon sole instead. Trim the taits. to mal<e rz cloutes (see betow). Season with satt and pepper. Gas 4. Preheat the oven to r8ooC. about 5oog each z large rosemary sprigs (preferably with woody stems) r Cut away the fins. or too simply too.Dover sole studded with herb cloutes like to cook and serve Dover sole in a simple way to lppreciate its fine flavour. with green beans or o solad. basting the fish once or twice. rz large basi[ leaves r tablespoon olive oil roog butter. in pieces z bay leaves few thyme sprigs splash of dry white wine sea salt and freshly ground blacl< z Break the rosemary into smalter sprigs and wrap each sprig tightty in a basi[ [eaf.

SRemovethecrownroasttoawarmedservingdish.Thecrownofchic|<enisnowreadytoroast. about zl<g zoog butter. "/rhead of garlic or 5 peeled handfut of thYme sPrigs few small rosemarY sPrigs breastsl<inandftesh(seebetow). pepper basting the chicl<en with the pan juices 3 or 4 5 Roast for about 3o minutes. (The tegs can be roasted Separatety. 4Chopthetargecarrot. Gas 5' herb butter between the chopped parstey and season with pepper' Insert the gartic cloves. slash the s|<in between the thighs and and separate the legs the tegs right out and distocate the joints. tip ln and smash down with Where the tip meets the breastbone. softened 3 t tabtespoons choPPed ParsteY r large carrot r [arge r onion z celery sticl<s [eel< breast. The trick is to coo]< them apart. sticl< the l<nife your fist to breal< it for easy removat Mix hatf the softened butter with the 3 Preheat the oven to r9ooC. Insert a thin sl<ewer when the chicl<en breast feels firm' checl< that it is lf they are pink' roast for into the thicl<est part: if the juices are ctear it is done' another ro minutes or so.coverwithaloose. until tender and caramelised' 7 cooked. carve the breast (and absorbed into the ftesh. making it even more succulent' tegsifroastedatthesametime)'servewiththecardamomcarrots'ancl Dauphinoise Potatoes ifYou tike' 5 O Pou(try and game birds . then cut through from the bodyl chop off the bony ends' Lift up the necl< sl<in to z Remove the wishbone to mal<e the breast easy to carve' To remove exposethewishboneandcutthisawayfromtheftesh'usingarazorsharpknife. pull the chic|<en tegs. Dauphinoise (page cz) for the ultimate sunday lunch' another recipe. trim the carrots. and the meat' or use for Roast the legs separately to serve with the breast the breast will be dry.tent'of The iuices witl be refoit and leave to rest for a good r5 minutes before carving. altow about 45 minutes. halved 5oog babY carrots.turning occasionatly.Seasonthechicl<ensl<inandptacethetwotemonha[ves in the bodY cavitY. leaving on a tittte of the the baby carrots with the remaining butter in a heavy'based frying pan and cool< cardamompodsandseasoningoveramediumheatforaboutr5minutes.teel<. times.roast chicken with herbs and cardamom carrots the legs take different lengths of time to cook' Remove from problem with roasting a large chicken is that the breast and and cooked is meat leg meat is invariably undercooked.onionandceleryandplaceinaroastingtin'Sit herb sprigs over the the chicl<en crown on top.) green statls' Melt the 6 Meanwhite. to hetp brown and crisp the sl<in.wait until the thigh oven when the breast is juicy and tender. Scatter the gartic ctoves and r lemon. serve the chicken with creamy Pommes The SERVESa-6AS A MAIN DISH r large free'range chicken. with toPs 6 cardamom Pods sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< surroundingvegetables.

Placethesausagemeat atongthecentre.ma|<ingsurethes|<inremainsintact. turning.' Rott up ends wetl for tightty and wrap in severat turns of cting fitm' twisting the a r tabtespoon choPPed cherviI or parstey r tablespoon choPPed tarragon 3 good sea[. Season the inside with satt and pepper' zMixthesausagemeatwiththechoppedherbsandspreadoverthechicker.Liftoutofthewaterandremovetheclingfitm' 4Meanwhite. three quarters of the out flat.enctoseandtieatintervalswith|<itchenstring. 52 PoultrY and game birds .Tasteand adiust the seasoning.Wrapinfoitand slowroastatrTooC.reheatthechic|<envetout6andstirinthegrainymustard. for about 5 minutes over.Havereadyalarge iced water and teave for bowt of iced water. in a [arge frying pan' When it starts to foam' add 5 Heat the olive oiI and butter untit nicely browned att the chicken rolls and fry. then served with a creamy velout6 flavoured The supr€mes are stuffed with herby sausage meat (page c6). plump-breasted black leg chickens from . serve with pasta or Pomme Pur6e a class oftheir own.battottine of chicl<en with grainy mustard sauce Flavour is especiaily important when 3* it comes to chicken poulet de Bresse are in I recipe' look for good' speciatity poultry farmers in this country' For this am increasingty impressed with birds raised by smal! under the breastbone removed' boned breast and wing with the smatl fitlet that lies plump free-range chicken supr€mes with grainy and poached. SERVES 4 As A MAIN DlsH mustard.Gas3foruptorhouruntiIfirmandtender.there are too many tosteless birds around as far as l'm concerned' - 4 chicl<en supr€mes' PreferabtY r poulet de Bresse z5og good quatitY fresh sausage meat (about 4 thicl< sausages' sl<inned) each Using a sharp boning knife' stit Remove any sinews from the chicl<en supr6mes' way through. then open chicl<en breast horizontalty. I France' but buy these fine-flavoured.thenserve. Chitt in the refrigerator for a couple of hours' chicl<en rotls and poach Bring a [arge shaltow pan of water to the boit' Add the foraboutr5minutesuntittheyfeetjustfirmwhenpressed. Leave to stand in a warm ptace for 5 minutes' r tablespoon wholegrain mustard z tablesPoons olive oil large l<nob of butter sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< pepper 6Toserve'slicethebattottinesintoroundsandarrangeonwarmedplates'ona Pour over the vetout6 and serve smatl mound of creamy pomme pur6e if you til<e. Stide the chicken rolts into the 3oo-4ooml Chicken Vetout€ (page zrz) ro-r5minutestocoorquic|<[y. VARIATION Bone the tegs (or asl< your Large chicl<en tegs can oe stuffed in a similar way' butchertodothis).

-aigrette.::er and drain again. chicken veloutd - scented with chervil. ::c - rooml Vinaigrette (Page zr8) sea salt and freshtY ground blacl< pepper uncovered.i the haricot beans and babyturnips into a saucepan with the ' -g to the boit. cut through the thigh joint and remove the legs' place' but in drumstick the leaving then putt out the thigh bone. 4 poussins. Checl< the seasoning and stir in the chopped place for ro minutes before -ssins are cooked.sisussin with a veloutd of navets and white beans . but to cut them up to make life easier for my guests' Using a We sharp l<nife.cff the pan luices into a smatl saucepan. . Poultry and game birds 53 . for ro minutes or so' untilthe herbs by one third. Simmer for r hour or until just tender' Drain.extra 5-ro minutes in the oven. pierce between the leg and breast: if :. Roast for about zo-25 minutes until 3ooml Chicl<en Vetout6 (Page zrz) r tablespoon choPPed cherviI r tablespoon choPPed chives few drops of truffle oit :: < pink juices the poussins.F't. discarding the flavourings' Season and set :-e oven to r9ooC. baby chickens. rz59 dried haricot beans r sma[[ onion. ::v turnips : in boiting water for a minute or so. Gas 5.li *f--HflftilT* I prefer Poussins are often served whole. and add the onion' :af. 4oo-5oog each about 4og butter. halved r bay leaf 16 baby turniPs (navets) .Coverthebreastofeach :: rer or a small piece of foi[. or'spring chickens" and serve them beans in a : : . e ': ihe birds whole or jointed if you prefer (see below)' Divide the rs and white beans between warmed serving plates' Sit the and drizzle over the vinaigrette sauce to serve' - {-Hf.aricot . bring to the boit. cut into quarters and -:.fit the bill' You will need to :-s winter dish' ond \repare some velout| in advance.d running water. metted --ssinswiththemettedbutterandseason. Carefutly cut the breasts from the bone poussin one piece and discard the carcasses. Simmer. then drain and Peel the turnips thinty. refresh under r small carrot. heat untit bubbting' then . chives and truffle oit . Arrange the whole breasts and legs on the Plates. : and pepper. This is a really nice then drain and place in a SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH !: reans in cold water overnight.= with an interesting accompaniment' Here se tender. rest in a warm . :. sliced :ienty of cold water to cover. in you don't have to do this.

Bringthestocktotheboitinashallow . checl< the seasoning rvarmed serving ptates. roog butter z5og shemigi mushrooms.' :-ions and cookfor 5 minutes. Tip Poultry and game birds 55 . in one Piece '. : -. Remove from the oven and stide on to a wire rack' r:: :he mushrooms to the sauce and reheat until bubbting' then .- ls .r d diamond pattern. seasoning to taste' button mushrooms roomI dry sherrY zoomI double cream z teaspoons choPPed tarragon ' :-?'f! ' and bubbte untitwett reduced' Return the bacon and onions in the reserved stocl<. lid the pie assemble and dish into the fitling the bake as above.. '. r:hen .filaridges chicken ple .& ]"fu&.r-<:ry. beaten with water 1 teaspoon ' i '. discard the herbs and season the (zcm strips)' Heat a quarterofthe butter in a 5oomt Chicl<en Stocl< (Page zlo) r bay leaf r thyme sprig 2oog pancetta or good smoked bacon. rvith th e egg yotl< gtaze and bal<e for about ro minutes until :r -. cut the pastry tid into quarters and move them apart slightty. Liftoutwith a slotted spoon' - ' . or a whole one in a . we bake the filting and pastry separately so the chicken pies ready plated as we do. or babY '-. .ren into zcm chunks. about 3 minutes' Remove paper.eE..259 baby onions :s<ins. Dip the onions in boiting water for 30 seconds 4 sl<inless. pie on top to serve. glaze and sheet.usingtheinvertedpiedishasatemplateandplaceonabaking then score. $qS . .-:ozoooC.minutes. using a small saucer as a sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< .' 2 f r coin. Return to a gentle simmer . :e .Topwith a pastry round and serve' Y63 #fi#?/'H. .e nt.-:.. on the menu at claridges. : . then tal<e off the heat and leave to cool in the tiquid for Strain the stocl< into a lug.ri:^ soon as the chicl<en is warmed through.Whenitstartstofoam. Bringto the : llur boitand cool< until "r ' Add the cream and bubbte untit reduced by a third' Add the r tablespoon choPPed ParsleY z5og Puff PastrY (Page r9o) . bay teaf and thyme to the stocl<... : i :^d set aside. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH :. Cut out four rounds. using the tip of a small sharp :i l<nife' pepper -..: set aside..thenremoveandpeet. You can either serve individual : iish (see below). WiPe out the Pan. 3ake for a further z minutes with the oven door stightty ajar. enioyed by many of my guests. to ' .r:.Gas6'Rottoutthepastryonatighttyflouredsurfaceto r egg yoU<.ingbutterinthepan.ilEf"f I#{ld. and the pastry is tight and crisp.addthemushrooms ' :30ut 7 minutes untiI softened.trEH Preparethefiningasabove. -' :<en.cut outonelargepastrytid. boneless chicl<en breasts' about rzog each :.r:< and stir-fry the pancetta untitcrispy.::a into [ardons .

then re-truss by securing un_truss the birds to toosen at the tips with string' simpty tying the legs together wooden cocl<taiI sticl(s or to the thyme sprigs and bring a medium saucepan' add z Put the chicken stocl( in then remove to a simmer and cool< for z minutes' the boit. Add the quaits' return have to do this in two batches' a colander' You may and drain upside down in quail paper' Stuff the cavity of each thoroughty dry with kitchen 3 Pat the birds few lime zest strtps' with a rosemary sprig and a in a iug and set aside' dressing ingredients together 4 Whisk the high you can feel a steady medium griddte (or barbecue) until 5 Heat a ridged Dressing: 5 heat_nottoohighoryouwi[lchartheftesh.Lighttyoitthegriddte. so t appry SERVES 4 AS A MAIN D|SH potatoes with a rocket salad' saut:€ of and serve on a bed 8 oven-readY quails r zro) r titre Chicl<en Stocl< (Page handfut of thYme sPrigs 8 smatl rosemarY sPrigs in strips finety pared zest of z times' a tittte otive oit.s are is on the breasts.ready qua. as most avairabre from can dry now quair on a griddle or barbecue oven. Thereafter. (see overreaf). r toss technique poached-grired a the dericate fresh. to brush pepper ground btack sea salt and freshtY them with them up.poch6-gritt6quaitwithahoneymustarddressing Allow two per person butchers and poulterers' good supermarkets. them with a spiced honey for a main course. cooking meat the of Most dressing one each for a starter. Cook tablesPoons clear honeY r tabtesPoon soy sauce mustard r tabtesPoon coarse grain r tablesPoon Diion mustaro r tabtesPoon sesame oil on the tightty' a tittte otive oiI and season 6 Brush the quaits tightty with with tongs' minutes' turning several times griddte (or barbecue) for about 7-ro careful not Be firm' atl over and the breasts are until the birds are gotden brown to burn the delicate ftesh' pour over the dressing' large shattow bowt and Transfer the quaits to a warmed' 7 Leavetomarinatefor5minutes'orafitttelonger'Untiethetegsandremovethe bed of sliced quaits on a the cavities' Serve the rosemary and time zest from rocl<et salad' saut6ed potatoes with a 56 PouttrY and game birds . as we.

## ## 5B Porllrv ard game b rds .

'::...--: _ .. .: ':tf' :t - _=* -_.. Pouttry and game birds 59 .* .

Remove the fat from the ducl< breasts and trim away any sinews. SERVES zl-6 AS A STARTER ones r large Barbary ducl< breast. peppercorns. tal<e a razor sharp carving l<nife and stice off wafer-thin slices at a stant in a D-shape. Arrange the ducl< slices in a circle on chitted serving plates and cover with cting film untit ready to serve. to drizzle and 3 spread the spiced satt mixture on top of the ducl< breasts to cover eventy press down. Ptace on a ptate and refrigerate 5 for another 48 hours to mature. remove the breasts and rinse in cold water. as you woutd cut a side of smol<ed salmon. 2o-3og coarse sea salt % teaspoon blacl< peppercorns 4 star anise. Now. 7 Drizzle a tittte otive oil over the ducl< slices and serve with a salad. Both have a mild gamey flavour that suits marinating. Pat dry. Mix in the grated orange and Iemon zests. then cut into wafer-thin slices. then ptace the trimmed breasts in a shattow dish. LJse very fresh. or z smaller Gressingham duck breasts. then wrap each breast in clean mustin (not clingfitm).ducl<'bresaola' Skinned duck breasts are dry-cured in a spiced salt over a period of 4 days. some satty tiquid witl have started to exude as the breasts begin to shrinl<. prime quality meat . Cover with cting fitm again and return to the fridge for z4 hours. about 4oog. about zz59 each r Turn the fridge to its lowest setting. or z smaller for with chicory leaves. z-3oc maximum. a % teaspoon coriander seeds grated zest of r orange grated zest of r lemon olive oi[. turn the duck breasts and rub the spiced salt into the other side. 4 Uncover. By now. brol<en up z Grind the satt. remove the ducl< breasts from the muslin and open-freeze on a tray for an hour to firm. 6 After this. carpaccio-style. star anise pieces and coriander together' using pestle and mortar or an electric spice grinder.either one large Barbary duck breast. or a leafy from a Gressingham duck. an eosy and impressive starter. 6O Pouttry and game birds . After the 48 hours. Serve salad dressed with walnut vinaigrette. Cover with cting fitm and place in the fridge for z4 hours.

) r teaspoon ground ginger Sweet sour souce: 259 sugar z tablespoons clear honey i - " : -cks are very tender.::ler fine sieve into a bowl and beat in a knob of butter. '-.:^d roast for 45-5o minutes. (l(eep this for : . -rry turn once or twice and roast undisturbed to allow the sl<in to ' . : i crispy.' -g tin and add the honey. .alad are good accompaniments. : :::oes.rpiced roasted ducl< [egs with a sweet sour sauce ' ' '. e a Layer of fat under the skin. but I recommend that you try slow roosting the legs. transfer to a warmed plate and leave to rest. i- :. Place the duck [egs. ' . Mix atI the spices : 'rb into the legs. " -ice[y caramelised. . sl<in-side up. -'oy be the most popular cut of this rich poultry bird.:: derived from mallard with a semi-gamey flavour.of the ducl< legs a few times with a fine sl<ewer. Season wlth to taste.."3€ and lemon juices and bubble again until reduced by half. Stir a large knob of butter sea salt and freshly ground black " " . oven to r8ooC.. Cool< on the hob. Duck legs are widely available. pepper . Gas 4. Strain the -g: : :. There is no need to baste them during . AS A MAIN DISH r. ii tre i. sold separately and relatively ' -ere they ore roasted with aromqtic spices and served with a Spanish style citrus and sherry vinegar sauce. Pour off the fat hatfway through cool<ing. Place the ducl< in a dish and [eave to marinate in - 4 duck legs (preferabty Gressingham) 1 1 teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon ground mace about z hours. . I use Gressingham . which bastes the meat during cooking to keep it moist. :n the sherryvinegar and allow to bubbte until reduced by half.: . Poultry and game birds 6t . stirring with a wooden .. r5oml sherry vinegar juice of z oranges juice of z lemons pan juices from the roasted ducl< legs " . -+ /.. in a ' : . . 'i :lck legs with the sweet sour sauce. Crispy saut6ed potatoes and a .

then r pinl< graPefruit 3 tablespoons cranberrY iuice 3 usingasmall.it shoutd be very stightty pinl<. same woy' guinea fowt. removing any stray thenaddtothedressingwiththegrapefruitSegmentsandwa[nuts. ffi: $ {'f iffi $k {"}ltfr fl ilg lt'4. for about 3 minutes. Use at the peak of ripeness' then when the iuice is at its sweetest.breast of guinea fowl with pomegranate dressing meat and game dishes' Here it is reduced pomegranates are popuLar in Middte Elstern cooking. 14 these reddish-yellow hard-sl<inned fruits in markets and shops from September through to December. then fry the breasts. Turn the breasts over and little olive oi[. then combined with vinaigrette.Roughtychopthegrapefruitflesh. Do not 5 overcook the meat . s|<inseasoning. sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< on warmed ptates stice each guinea fowl breast horizontatty into three. Cut the peet and pith from the grapefruit. then add to the vinaigrette' 3 Picl< membrane' over the remaining pomegranate seeds. and the iuice is often used in make more pomegranate seeds' pink grapefruit and walnuts' to to concentrate the flavour.sharp|<nife.thenpassthroughasieveplacedovera by about hatf' untit smatl pan. halve vertically' all of remove to important lt is seeds' fleshy the out carefullv spoon the creamy yellow membrane. Heat a heavy-based non-stick frying cool< the other side for side down. ffi #. hatf watnut oil (page zr8) z tablespoons freshtY choPPed stightty syrupy. You could also serve quail or pheasant breasts in the an original. fragrant dressing for futt flavoured SERVES + AS A MAIN DlSh 3 ripe pomegranates rHalvethepomegranatesandcarefuttyScoopouttheseeds.discardingthe cut 0ut the segments membrane. made with hatf otive oit. pressing with the back of a spoon' BoiI to reduce 6 tabtespoons Vinaigrette.setaside. for cooking pepper r-z minutes.reservingtheIuice.Servewithwiltedspinachand potatoes' Whote Spice Basmati Pitaff (page ro3) or sautEed lh"t. To prepare. z Btitz two thirds of the pomegranate seeds in a btender tablespoons freshlY squeezed orange iuice with the cranberry' orangeandreservedgrapefruitjuices. walnuts 4 guinea fowl breasts.H ro o t. which is very bitter' r fi 6z Poultry and game birds . Arrange spooningthepomegranatedressinginbetween. to tr. about rz5g each a 4Trimtheguineafowlbreaststoneatenandrubthes|<inwithotiveoitand pan. P&.

surround with roasted root vegetables. for about carrot. shal<ing the bags twice to baste the pigeon in the iuice' lf you prefer pigeon cool<ed longer. few parsley stalks. strain the iuices through a sieve into a small pan. 7 Using a very sharp thin btaded l<nife. or freeze. 1f roomt fresh orange juice and cinnamon sticl< in a pan and simmer for about ro-rz minutes untit the dates have softened.i we orten appry this in the restaurant kitchen. and spoon over the sauce. carrot.multi-purpose cool<ing bags'. altow an extra z-3 minutes at this stage' and rest for z minutes.you'll need to mol<e the purde in we enrich these juices with a date and orange purde to make a delicious sweet-sour pink. Add about 6oomlcold water to cover and bring to the boit. add the z tabtespoons date and orange pur6e and heat until bubbting.} ffi f-J +i. Meanwhile. cut offthe tegs and most ofthe bacl<s -these snap easity about hatfway along. seal the bags by knotting the open end.1 Li !$ --1++" $ &. The pigeon breasts are best served stightly baby parsnips. Strain 45 minutes untit reduced right down to a the stock into a jug. chopPed r celery stick. then 5 Lift out the bags (teaving the water simmering) shal<e to z tablespoons Port z tablespoons Madeira smatl handfuI of thYme sPrigs z bay leaves sea salt and fresh ground blacl< pepper z tablespoons date and orange pur6e (see below) 6 Tal<e distribute the contents. The food inside coolcs in its own. surrounded by roasted root vegetables such as carrots and 4 wood pigeons r r sma[[ onion. cut away they shoutd be cooked tightty pink. Discard the cinnamon sticl<. choPPed r bouquet garni (bay [eaf. Madeira and stocl< between in two possibte and them. bones and trimmings in a large pan with the onion. cover and ptace in the fridge' z Put the pigeon tegs. reserve the tegs and bones. on mounds of spinach or cabbage ifyou til<e. a smatt amount of stock or wine is added with herbs and seasonings. sliced 1 First prepare the pigeons. on small mounds of buttered spinach or blanched advance (see below). as ctose to the food as gentte simmer and cool< for 4 Drop the bags into the boiting water.i--H i+ *: l${.iuices and the result is a pure simple flavour that is quite superb. Arrange on warmed ptates. return to a ro minutes for pinl< meat.-]{4-{f. -i- ':"i:. Trim the sides to neat 'crowns' of breast and wing ioints. Whiz bags'and you can do something similar at home. {. celery. star anise and iuniper berries. or serve with Ceteriac Lasagne (page rz9) ifyou prefer' DATE AND ORANGE PUREE We use this pur6e to enrich many game sauces.pigeon breasts sous-viede with port and Madeira pigeons to retain all their natural flavour and iuices' The sous-viede technique (described below) is a brilliant way of cooking sauce . Place the pigeon crowns 3 When ready to cool<. bouquet garni. uncovered. then the bags are vacuum-sealed and placed in pans of simmering water. Divide the port. rest the pigeons for 5 minutes. Spoon into a clean iar and keep in the fridge for up to r month. Press out as much air as possible. Buy'multi-purpose cool<ing the pigeon breasts in one piece. bring a targe . 6t+ Poultry and game birds . pan of water to boit. thyme sPrig) r star anise 4 luniper berries quarter of the origina[ volume. the dates and juice in a blender until smooth. and add the herbs and seasoning. Smatt heatproof plastic pouches are filled with meat or vegetabtes. Lower the heat and simmer. SERVES + AS A MAIN DlSH shredded cabbage. return to the pan and cook for another z minutes' out the bags and cut open. Put rz5g chopped stoned dates.

n' 15 minutes. which lasts until December rcth. Bring : "-: boil and simmer untiI reduced by two thirds.ny menus until . ::Toanv with old-fashioned bread sauce. Tal<e out the hearts and livers from the n : . Fry neat.vith satt and pepper. it can be delicious. then drain on kitchen paper. i. The red grouse in Scotland feed almost entirely on heather. '' :. Deglaze with a splash of red wine.: ' ES I 7-ro minutes.: :'grouse will serve two. :: -alf the olive oil in a [arge heavy-based frying pan and brown the birds all tablespoons olive oil r" . breasts. r .. . then whiz to a paste in a btender or food processor. '.Drabout5minutes. with a strong aroma. turnips.: -:rust be pinl<. chopped handfuI of chopped vegetables (such as carrots. ". '"rr:'while. 'i:ty gourmets would say grouse is an ocquired taste. Spread the cro0tes with the grouse Liver paste to serve. don't let them overcook.^utes. Serve on warmed ptates with the 3 '. melted and hot . -: :avities and reserve for the game cro0tes (see betow). but you pink. Set aside on butter papers or greaseproof paper. -3 a sharp. Pouttry and game birds 65 .roast grouse with lunrper and red wine sauce ' :. Strain the sauce through ed a r -: -eheat the grouse ' . then pour in the stocl<. Because it has very little fat. Along with teal and partridge. add the onion and pepper 'i' lhopped vegetables and cool< untiI softened and nicety caramelised. which gives their . I won't even consider putting the end of August. thin btaded l<nife. :: . because ideally game birds should be allowed to hang before cooking. ptus the. crustless triangles of sliced white bread in some butter until golden brown and crisp. to bard 3 : ra5 )en J . depending on size. grouse must be'barded'with fat before roasting. The meat is very dark and leon. . lt means more to ''. : . and r small onion. this game bird needs careful " : sut. -sieT the grouse to a roasting dish.^ eue.juniper berries and red "t ry Cook until the wine has reduced right down. and should only ever . place cut'side down on the butter papers and {"r#dfu. aromatic flavour. -'^ to the oven for about 3 minutes to heat through. heat the rest of the otive oil in a large saucepan. Cut each breast into stices.- 5og butter.i-:he breasts. cooked properly. to prevent it becoming dry.' : thon chefs. season to taste. about . i 'nto a jug and checl< the seasoning.?h 6_"#44_$LB fi d""*-= n hh Chop the grouse hearts and livers and fry in about 259 butter with a few thyme leaves for about 5 minutes. they ' :.. celery) 6 juniper berries . saut6 potatoes and the game croOtes. remove the whote breasts from the birds.ts Twelfth (of August) marks the start of the grouse season. :' thin strips of porl< fat or streaky bacon. Lay strips of porl< " :.twice with hot butter.. a : : -l the legs and carcasses. . Remove from the oven and leave to stand in a warm Roast for zooml red wine 5ooml Brown Chicl<en Stock (page zro) sea salt and freshly ground blacl< De nice and pinl< inside.. return to the roasting dish and roast for . standing them upright if possible. Gas 6. buttery Savoy cabbage. tn -:e.. basting . can easily double up the quontities to serve four SERVES z AS A MAIN D|SH z oven-ready grouse l-E .-:ai the oven to zoooC. Add the roasted legs and carcasses.

with witted spinach and asparagus' Arrange on warmed ptates and surround Serve with Pomme Pur6e' 68 Meat . Betly to slow' pork may be a cheaper cut' but it responds beautifully gentlecooking_becomingmeltingtytender. basting occasionatty ro white PePPercorns meatfeelsverytender'Totest.Strainthepaniuices gtaze' into a pan and bubbte to reduce to a gtossy brown 6Toserve.head garlic or 6 fat gartic ctoves. Cool< for z1/z-3hours. then add the whote spices' Bring 4 Pour in the soy sauce and star anise andpartiattycoverthepan. choPPed r celerY stick. choPPed r [eek. You should now have an even sheet (see overleaf)' quite firmty and tie into a neat.Youmayneedtoorderthjscutinadvancefromyourbutcher_persuadehimto prepareitforyoutoo. turning untiI carametised gartic for oil to the pan and saut6 the vegetables and 3 Add the remaining otive vinegar and cool< untit reduced by hatf' about 5 minutes. choPPed f.I I i braised betty of pork in a rich gtaze This spectacular dish regularly appears on my menus.Braisestowlyoveralowheat.pushametalskewerintothemiddteoftheioint. even-shaped rott or deep saut6 pan (with tid) untit z Heat a shattow ftameproof cast-iron casserore olive oil and brown the pork you feel a strong heat rising' Add z tabtespoons a[[ over' Remove to a plate' ioint.orthic|<slices. choPPed r onion.5 litres Brown Chicken Stock (page zro) 5 l<nife to cut off the sl<in' leaving a thin r To prepare the pork. zo coriander seeds with the pan juices' untit the Gas 3.tliketoservethiswithtrufflescentedPommePurde(pagec6).orintheovenatrTooC. there should be tittte resistance' ro blacl< PePPercorns 5Liftoutthemeatandsetasidetorestonawarmedptate. to the boit stocl<. use a sharp fitteting rib bones and discard' Even out the layer of fat about 5mm thicl<' Remove the areas and ptacing where the meat is thickness by tal<ing a slice from any thicl<er of boned porl< betty' Rott this up thinner.ifyoucan.lightlywiltedspinachand A MAIN DISH steamed asparagus spears' SERVES 4 AS r whote pork beltY ioint' about rkg 4 tablespoons otive 1 oil carrot. peeled roomI sherrY vinegar zooml soY sauce r. Degtaze with the sherry ptacing it on top of the vegetables' then return the pork ioint to the pan.removethestringandcutthepor|<roltintoportions.

.

il Meat 71 .

This hetps to set the shape. * frlg r' . chopped z tablespoons white wine r tablespoon each finety chopped parsley. trimmed and finety chopped roog chestnut mushrooms. with roasted or saut6ed for about 5-7 minutes until the topping is rr . Gas 7. A[low to coot. for about 7 minutes until browned and cool<ed. crushed 4 tablespoons olive oil :: r "' : a sieve to drain off any remaining liquid. Put the steaks on a . roog wild mushrooms (such as ceps. '':quentty.'iher z tabtespoons olive oiI and saut6 the mushrooms over a high hear. cherviI and chives 4 tablespoons double cream r large egg yolk 4 filtet steaks. Gently saut6 the shaltot and garlic in I tablespoon . Add the wine : . pepper Forthis dish. ready to finish in a hot oven iust before serving. . r fat garlic clove. " ':adV to serve. . thick cut steaks from a neat. : 'i d0d golden. fl$'€fl F-S Sffiflffi ffiT" t Meat /J . the steaks can be seared and " :: the mushrooms in advance. ' . weighing approximately 6oo9. Transfer the mushrooms to a . then fold into the mushrooms alongwith the -i i .! laking tray..beef fittet with a gratin of witd mushrooms : . Pile the mushroom mixture on top of the steal<s and dust : .rscn and attowto coot.:":!andaSalad. ' v' : "-€ cream untiI softty stiff.::son and mix in the herbs. to give you perfectly round steaks. uncovered. To prepare.: r sha[[ot.:-e steaks with the remaining tabtespoon of olive oiI and season them.'eot way of cooking thick juicy beef fillet steaks. lf necessary.. then wrap the whole fillet tightlV in cling film and chilt it overnight.we buy a whote filetof beef.. {. about r8og each and 4cm high z tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese sea salt and freshly ground blacl< n : : i--esan. "r . morels). finely chopped ':': about 5 minutes untiI nicely softened. i r .: 4 AS A MAIN DISH i': :ie topping ahead. The mixture should be quite dry.. which can only come from a quality butcher who cuts to order. :-ge non-sticl< frying pan until you can feel a strong heat rising. Serve as soon as possibte. fover and chitt. . . Remove from the -. heat the oven to zzooC. -qtil it has reduced away. we trim the ends and cut away any sinews. o ' . blewits. ':' about 2-3 minutes. You do need prime quality. Cool< the " . Ideat if you are entertaining. round ::. girol[es. Cool<. 'r . turning them to sear atI over. For convenience.

thicl< fittet of beef. adding any juices from carving to the pan juices. feets quite soft. Serve with sautded ortichoke hearts and a creamy horseradish-flavoured pomme Purde (page q6). put a smatl roasting tin in the oven to heat). The mitky sotids (or impurities) in the butter encourage it to foam. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN D|SH r whole. preferably overnight. Use a saut€ pan that you can put into the oven. 4 Heat the saut6 pan (or a frying pan) untit you can feeI a good heat rising.. This should tal<e about 5 minutes. cut into sma[[ cubes sea salt and freshly ground btack pepper suitabte pan. spooning over the butter at least twice that time. Trickle the irresistible buttery iuices over the beef slices and you won't need to make a sduce. or 4 large r Checl< that the membrane has been removed from the fittet. and rest in a e HfrF'S SffieffiHT w. 5 Add the butter graduatty and attow to foam. 7 Strain the buttery pan juices from the meat through a fine sieve and reheal . rather than a supermarket. Flavour is all impo':. baste wel[ and give it another 5 minutes in the oven. Wrap the beef fittet tightty in cting fitm. Roast the fittet for zo minutes.ll:l'i"!i-f. so the last fhing you want to do is remove them. lf using targe artichokes. about 6oog 16 baby globe artichol<es.youcannotsurpassagoodritLet: that you buy from a quality butcher.iuices. Preheat the oven to r8o'C. : sure the filtet is from an animatthat has hung for a good 3 weeks. I buy a whole filtet of beef and cook it simply in foaming butter. Place the pan in the oven (or transfer the beefto the hot roasting tin and pour over :butter). turning it untiI eventy caramelised.use a razor sharp fitteting l<nife to remove it if necessary. reserving the pan iuices.l ones 5 tablespoons olive oit to seat.butter-roasted fittet of beef with baby artichokes For a verv special roast. Adc z tablespoons olive oiI and brown the beef fittet. Set aside. to hetp set the shape' z Meanwhite. Gas 4. Season and remove from the heat. 3 When ready to cool<. Heat the remaining otive oil in a frying pan and saut6 the artichol<es untilgotden brown and cris: clarify butter for many uses. preferably Aberdeer 7 4 lvleat .ii:]*i I strongLy recommend mal<e Formelrinstenderness. 6 Transfer the beef to a warmed plate. but not when the dish calls for foaming butter. the outside. Serve with horseradish pomme pu16e r:lii"i'i".iiirilii". rotting it a few times and twisting the ends tightL. This is visible as a sitvery fitm . prepare and cool< the artichol<es as for Fondant of Gtobe Articho. then spoon over the meat. (lfyou do not have a Zog tightty salted butter. unwrap the beef and season. the beef into eight even slices and ptace two on each warmed dinner ptate. Surround the beefwith the artichol<es and drizzle over the. warm ptace for 5 minutes white you finish the artichol<es. (page rz4). cut the hearts into quarters. Press the fittet with the back of a forl<: it shoutd feet tightty springy. Chitt for at least 4 hours.

Carve the meat . Unwrap the meat and weigh to calculate the r : re. \vrap in clean mustin and squeeze out any tiquid.3-2. lf . about -. The mixture should be quite dry. Put this through a food processor and whiz z5og mushrooms. Serve the the gravy. I '-: .the basis for a delicious gravy.. Using sharp l<nife. Roast the lamb for the catculated time flffiffiF*$ TEF rastineu stuffing that contains raw meat to check the seasoning is never a good idea. cut out any sinews or and trim away 15og ftesh. Turn into a bowt. Lay a butter ^ :op to prevent over-browning. a . Add rz minutes for each additionat z5og.tter and parsley SERVES 6 AS A MAIN D|SH tamb so that it opens out flat (or get your butcher to do so) and a '-: ':: r leg of lamb. Add the cream.. Serve with potatoes roasted in goose fat and flageolet beans tossed : -. then strain into a jug. squeeze dry. :e the flavour .:ium. . about 2.'.: :he oven to r8ooC. then drain and plunge into :e-cotd water to refresh. I fry off a teaspoonfuI of the stuffing in a liltle oil until just firm.-z hours. add the stocl<. finety chopped r fat garlic clove. Drain thoroughly. or /. Meat 75 il . Add the 3 r sha[[ot. r:h the mushrooms and tarragon. onion.. with the boned joint. Atlow 5o minutes per l<g for medium rare meat and 55 minutes per .51<g z tablespoons double cream : :n a board. over a high heat untiI softened and browned.the meat to a platter and rest in a warm place for 15 minutes or so. stirring. Add the spinach -s to the lamb pur6e.leg of lamb with a mushroom and spinach stuffing ' ''ect for a special Sunday lunch and easy to prepore .. sl<in-side down. Ptace the joint in a pepper . r5omI red wine few rosemary sprigs sea salt and freshly ground blacl< '-:r ' amb flat on a worl<surface and spread the stuffing evenly over the rotl up firmty and tie at intervals with l<itchen string to secure.especially if you get your butcher to bone out the lamb for teed a medium leg boned out flat (rather than tunnel-boned). then atlow to coo[. .s. mushrooms as finely as possible.:uffed joint tightty in cting fitm and refrigerate for a couple of hours to ' :-e shaoe. : r. basting every 30 minutes with the meat juices. sew any open edges together with a trussing needle and thread. cover and refrigerate. Season wetl. drizzte with a tittle olive oil and sprinl<le with seasoning. : -: . to drizzle -s and fry. Heat the butter in a frying pan and -= shallot or onion and garlic for about minutes until softened. Gas 4. '=. tipping any luices that seep out into the iug. thick stices. wine and rosemary and a ':' ' :- few minutes to reduce down. lf and 3ooml welt-flavoured reduced lamb stocl< :'. then chop finety . teaspoon salt and some pepper and blend briefty ' : r:h. then taste it and adjust the stuffing seasoning accordingly. Rott ' . trimmed and cleaned 7og butter '=. wild or cultivated (or a mixture of both). chopped z5og baby Ieaf spinach r tablespoon chopped tarragon a little otive oil. yet it's important to get this right.:"e spinach in boitingwater for r minute. Use the bones to make stock and reduce to . mix wetl and checl< the seasoning (see Chef's Tip). juices into a smat[ saucepan.

discarding then boit rapidty tt't utgttuUes and. fine shreds with your fingertips the glaze' to the tamb with zooml of rest of tfre otives and add 5oog. Reserve the remaining Mix wett and check the seasoning. Rou neatry into feaves' overlapping the leaf and tine with 3 btanched Lightty oit a medium tadte the edge' Ptace a lamb the stem ends to overhang tips in the centre and attowing pressing tightty to moutd' over the overhanging leaves batt in the middte and fotd teaspoon coriander seeds RepeatwiththeremainingbattsandlettuceleavestomakeS. root vegetables. 8 portions. roughtY choPPed r :. Chop the glaze' then chirt. roughtY choPPed or 6 fat garlic ctoves r baY leaf r rosemarY sPrig z star anise 4 cardamom Potls shanks afl over' turning otive oit and brown the vegetables and gartic' oiI in the pan' add the chopped 2 Heat a littte more otive Pour whole spices and 4 olives' to soften' Add the herbs' and saut6 for 5 minutes thin syrup' reduced right down to a in the wine and boit until cast-iron casserote or heavy-baseo vegetabte mixture to a large the Transfer 3 on top' Pour in the tid and ptace the lamb shanl<s saucepan with a tight-fitting for at a very gentte simmer Season' cover and cook simmer' a to bring and stock for 3o minutes' then tender' Leave in the tiquid z/'3hoursuntit the meat is very Strain the tiquid into spoon and coot comptetety' transfer to a dish with a stotted untit a heat rising' then add a tittte aside' frequentty' Remove and set shatlow pan. which is then with some of the braising shredded and enriched An impressive and unusual otive oit. surrounded with vegetables' 76 Meat . lrheadgarlic' r thYme sPrig cetery stick. a time' in the lettuce leaves' a few at to snape the faggots' btanch 5 When ready untitwitted' Lift out with a water for about 5 seconds a large pan of boiting Remove' drain and pat dry in a bowl of ice-cold water' stotted spoon and refresh Hl"[:T::1::. Now putt the meat into and snip off any sinews' bones the from meat the 4 Pick you shoutd have arouno and ptace in a bow[.Chittona down' Ptate. roughtY choPPeo 1 onion..5 titres Brown Chicken (Page zro) [eaves 18 outer BabY Gem lettuce (from about 4 tettuce) ground black sea salt and freshlY pepper set asloe' reduced to a rich gtaze' about 35oml.wrapped in tnen asparagus and baby leeks' and tiquid fravourings.tamb shank faggots in lettuce Lamb and poached' branched lettuce leaves pressed into bars. serve the tamb 'faggots' reheat the remaining gtaze' and drizzted with the pu16e. and steamed parsnip pur6e with roqsted on a creamy main course. cover and cool( for about on a bed of creamy parsnip gtaze.faggots'.flavourings' 8 black otives wine 3oomt drY white Stock r. ioin-side to a targe thyme and coriander seeds serve' add the bay leaves' to reacly When 7 steamer (that paper on the base of a bamboo butter a Ptace water' pan of boiting Position on the steamer wrapped tamb batts on top' fits th'e pan) and ptace the ln the meantlme' rz minutes until piping hot' pan. to frY 4 targe lamb shanl<s you can feel a strong r Heat a large frying pan untit r carrot. best served DISH SERVES 8 A5 A MAIN braised shanks are srowry to givevery tender meat." To steam: z baY leaves z thYme sPrigs 1 ba*s but don't press too firmtv. roughtY choPPeo teel<.

. ...... taa..a. & %u..a ' ' t.a -tia::.:4a.

then cut into zcm cubes. Stewing veal is generally used for a blanquette. immerse the shallots or button onions in a pan of boiting water for 3o seconds r bouquet garni (bay teaf. the lowest heat possible and stir slowty with the whisl<.i. Add the onions to the lamb and continue to simmer for about ro minutes. r5oml dry white wine z Place the lamb in a saucepan.in quantity ifyou like l'i.:li#::: Fo ffi and cool< until thilkened. 4 Meanwhite. but lean lamb neck fillet works well and is much easier to find. stirring. Strain the tiguid into a shallow pepper pan. lt can be made in advance . if required. Simmer for ro minutes. for about 3o minutes. 6 Beat the egg yoll<s and cream together in a smal[ bow[. Set aside the lamb.i. the tiquid before you add the egg yolks and cream. The meat wilI have a marbling of fat. ffi. thyme sprig. 3 Return the lamb to the clean pan and add the stocl<. Traditionally a blanquette has a very thin sauce. Remove the pan of stocl< from the heat and slowty pour a little on to the yoll<s and cream. but you can thicken it slightly with a small knob of beurre manid if you like (see below).you want to thicken a liquid quicl<ly. Scatter with the chopped parsley and serve.u.il. Return the pan to ffi ffi E"# ffi ft H tVAeru fr fr i. Tip into a warmed serving dish. il. for 3o seconds or so. Pour this tiquid bacl< into the remaining stocl(. without - and kept in the fridge to have to *n:l:u. discarding the bouquet garni. season and cover with cold water. cut in small dice z5og baby shallots or button onions z5og button mushrooms. Simmer the stocl< until reduced by a third. Checl< the seasoning and add a squeeze of lemon juice to taste. bouquet garni and carrot dice. 78 Meat . with a large metal spoon. which helps to l<eep it succulent. sl<imming frequently until there is nothing left to sl<im. whisl<ing as you do so. 5 By now the meat should be nice and tender.li il'. such as a blanquette. The sauce is ready when it coats the bacl< of a spoon thinly (lil<e a thin custard). then drain and peel. Do not let it boil or it wi[[ curdte.l. white wine. lower the heat and simmer very gently. Serve with plain boiled rice or tagliatelle.. Bring stowty to the boit and sl<im off any scum that rises to the top. used to thicken a sauce. then enriching the broth with an egg r: and cream 'liaison'. uncovered. Drain the lamb in a colander and rinse in cold water. parsley stall<s) t carrot. and cook. Add the mushrooms and cool< for another 5 minutes. Whisk into the Liquid in tiny pieces lunl boiting.blanquette of tamb A blanquette is a classic technique of cooking meat by poaching in stock until tender. il. Mett 15g butt( . cleaned and quartered 4 free-range egg yoll<s r5oml doubte cream squeeze of [emon iuice z tablespoons chopped parsley sea salt and freshly ground blacl< to loosen the sl<ins..'. Bring to the boit. until it starts to thicl<en..1'1". JJii Ll. 7 Return the lamb and vegetabtes to the sauce and reheat very gently.". onions and mushrooms. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH 6oo9 lamb necl< fillet 3oomI Chicken Stocl< (page zro) r Trim any excess fat from the lamb.

chop into smatl dice.. Season and remove from the heat. celery.idneys until nicely cotoured and just firm. . add the l<idneys and chopped parstey. lf you buy leg joints '-:. Stir in the butter so the pear[ barley grains become glossy. lean and tender meat that is easy to prepare and cook. in pieces z tablespoons chopped parsley 6 tablespoons Vinaigrette (page zr8) sea salt and freshly ground black :. Wrap 4 rabbit tegs (inctuding thighs) .. quartered r [eek.:art-boned leg in pancetta : . Altow to stand in the warm pan . Heat hatf the olive oil in a smatI frying pan and saut6 -.'tay through cool<ing. '. do not . Serve garnished with small parstey flffi EFtS T$F keep rl morst. uncovered. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DlSH : . r -g a smatl sharp l<nife.-er. lf ' .'er. insert a thin metal ' ..tet. Bring to the boil.. stirring well to incorporate the meat juices. it should meet with tittte resistance and the iuices shoutd run clear. Checkthe seasoning. th€ remaining otive oiI in an ovenproof saut€ pan and seal the rabbit tegs r bay leaf r litre Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) 4 rabbit l<idneys or z lamb's kidneys * -:at about 4 tablespoons olive oil 7og butter. use lamb's kidneys instead. halved r thyme sprig :::ables and drain the barley. thyme sprig. then spoon or thyme sprigs. Cut each rabbit leg into 3 or eces and place on the barley.:. pepper 4 sma[[ flat-teaf parstey or thyme sprigs. Place the saut6 pan on the hob and pour in the algrette. ihe pear[ barley.a large pan. for about zo minutes untitthe grains are soft.tt kidneys) from your butcher or supermarket. bay leaf and stock . remove the thigh bones onty from the [egs.eir kidneys still attached. Wrapping the meat in pancetta or bacon is an effective way to Meat 79 . Picl< out the r onion.rabbit in pancetta with barley and kidney risotto " 'eored rabbit is a light.-i the barley into a saucepan with the reserved stocl< and stir over a medium '":: untiI piping hot. :l -: - vide the risotto between warmed serving plates. about 3-4 minutes. Gas 5... '. stirring occasionally. to garnish i . nurui. '':he heat.:. return to the oven for an extra 5-ro minutes. I :'€neat the oven to r9ooC.. Pierce each leg r5og thinly sliced pancetta or loog Parma ham '-'ee places and insert the rosemary sprigs pushing them we[[ into the flesh. halved r celery sticl<. To check that the meat is cooked. quartered .'cook. turning the legs ' '.: or Parma ham to mal<e neat rolls. Add seasoning and rz tiny rosemary sprigs z5og pear[ barley 1 carrot. is a lean and tender meat that is best protected during roasting ro prevenr rr oecomrng ory. Transfer to the oven and roast for about zo minutes.:ook the rabbit and kidneys.:'the rabbit. . leel<.. . onion. which can be chopped and stirred into this country-style barley risotto. Traditionally whole rabbits are sold . :. Heat gently. Hatve the l<idneys and snip out the cores. Set the bartey aside while .e you finish the risotto. carrot. " 3erate for about an hour to help set the shape. reserving the stock.

cool< caLf's I as you would a fiLIet steal<. . to firm up before serving.r:a 1& w # To retain its siLl<y texture and delicate flavour. rather than in thin slices which overcool< in mere seconds. A the Iiver to rest for 5 minutes after cool<ing.

then set aside. Pour the ffi&g_$&ee$fl w$ruffiffi&ffi A few drops of balsamic vinegar provide a sharp contrast to rich meat liver. ou don't need now in cling film. Set aside while you cool< the polenta wedges. Polenta: 6oomt mitl< 6oomI water z tablespoons olive oil 1 -: -ing 4 figs in hatf tengthways. make the potenta. .-: the liver and serve. Mouth-wateringly good! !i WEs a AS A MAIN DISH '. deep pan and bring to the boit. then add to the hot pan. :d -- 3og Parmesan cheese. :1d juicy inside. water. in a tightty oited r * . but stitI nicety To . such as meltingly soft calf's aged by the traditionaI method I :":ssing into the pan. Leave untiI cooI and . stirring frequentty.. :rout r hour.'topan-frythicker'steaks'whichgetabetter'cuisson'andsoretaintheirsweetsucculencetodeliciouseffect. with a long handled spoon. l<eep warm.':ips: if it feets tightty springy it's ready.Ask ' : -. . Tricl<te in the polenta as you stir : :.arge. refrigerate and use within 3 days. Fry for minutes on each side cool< zl 3og butter r*:+-ding " on thicl<ness.. i-ove from the heat and stir in the butter and Parmesan. olive oi[. fry the polenta for about z minutes on each side 3olden brown. Dust the liver ' w seasoned ftour. Graduatty mix in the vinaigrette. delicate texture that is easily toughened if you cook it in thin slices . When hot. cut-side down. Wipe out teaspoon thyme leaves r teaspoon salt z5og polenta grains (not the quicl<variety) r -. :reaking it up with a fork. to fry z5g butter aged balsamic vinegar. Allow z-3 wedges per serving. until the Iiver is browned on the outside. Dark in colour. I make a dressing with crushed fresh figs. lf the tiver feels very bouncy.-ake the dressing. r -. to dust . (Wrap any ' :' .'3e frying pan. then cut into wedges. stirring to combine with the meat juices.:'alongside the liver if there is room) for about z minutes without turning. Remove and drain on l<itchen paper. " . 4-5cm thick flour. press the surface with your :. then tip the polenta ' : : shallowtray and spread to a depth of about r. The mixture will thicl<en fairty quicl<ty and start to splutter a bit. Always siir in one direction to avoid lumps -9.) breal< open pepper a two of the figs and scrape out the flesh into '' " . ::ed to cover the pan as you need to stir the mixture. Always use a brand that has been dishes. freshly grated checkwhether it is ready. wooden casks for at least ro years. then cut into 4 even portions. Meat 81 . Cook the potenta for : : ninutes over a low heat. r . Crisp fried wedges of polenta are the perfect .iver has a fine. Fry these.calfb tiver with fried polenta and fig vinaigrette : ''. .-.: each potenta wedge with seasoned flour. Heat a 5mm depth of olive oiI in . aged balsamic vinegar has a wonderful mellow flavour. And to continue the ltalian theme.ihe liver of any tubes or membrane.'. cool< the fig halves.the best way to ruin it in my view :. thyme and r teaspoon salt 6 fresh figs room I Vinaigrette (page ' : : .ir J tablespoons otive oil with the butter in the frying pan. I :' ::e the liver on warmed plates and sprinkte with a tittte balsamic vinegar. .:. Attow to rest for 5 minutes before serving. Cut the . olive oi[. it will iercooked. to serve sea salt and freshly ground black : . *coniment.. .. Put the mitk. Don't be zr8) 4oog calf's liver in one thick stice. * .3€ the fried polenta wedges atongside and top with the hot figs.5cm. then drizzle - in . " I i -€ same time.tcher to cut you a thick piece of liver and portion it at home. '.

untitiust tender. Parsnip crisps are the ideal accompanimenf' SERVES 4 6oo9 loin ofvenison 2 carrots r First. stirring occasionalty. pour the tiquid cup. return to the boit and to about cool< over a medium heat for about sea salt and freshtY ground blacl< down zo minutes.thendrainandplungeintoabowlof iced cotd water or run them under cold water in a cotander' as the Heat the butter until it begins to foam. brown butter Brussels sprouts and a beautiful a wine sauce. Pee[ the dice. then boiI rapidly untiI reduced about roomI of rich gtaze. wonderfuI shiny sauce that is thicl< enough to tightty coat the bacl< of a spoon. My version shaltot and raspberry vinegar red selection ofwinter roots. about 3oog thyme.saut6foraminuteortwo.Boilthesproutsforjustzminutes. Keep warm' uncovered. Pass through a sieve and return the tiquid to the pan. You shoutd have a Sauce: z tablespoons olive oil 8 smatt or z large shallots. scattered with parsnip crisps. about 7-ro minutes. then add the remaining otive oit and pinl< in high heat. Keep warm while you finish the sprouts' toss Reheat the ctarified nut brown butter in a saut6 pan.bayteafandgarlic. Heat t/z celeriac. season wett. the olive oit in a large saucepan' add the shattots Add the and saut6 for about ro minutes untit softened and tightty browned. sliced 75cl bottle red wine z tablespoons rasPberrY vinegar into butter stops foaming and has turned a tight brown colour. watch carefully and as soon bay leaf 4 r fat garlic clove. but still Parsnip Crisps (Page r34) if the centre. Season and remove to an ovenproof plate. 5aut6 the venison cubes until carametised on a[[ sides. set aside.navarin of venison with roasted root vegetables A navarin is normally and serve with a uses lean venison which I saute stow-cooked casserole of lamb with potatoes and onions. Add the sprouts and 7 wetl to coat in the butter and heat through' 8 Reheat the sauce. Serve at once. carrots and celeriac and cut into zcm 3 Cut the venison into 4cm cubes. in a low oven' a 5Heat3tablespoonsoliveoiIinapanandsaut6thedicedvegetablesforabout 8ooml Brown Chicken Stocl< (page zro) To serve: place over a medium 6 Wipe out the pan. mal<e the sauce. leaving the solid partictes behind. stir in the remaining raspberry vinegar and checl< the seasoning.thenpourinthewineand to r tablespoon ofthe vinegar. Set the liquid butter aside' ro minutes. trimmed 5og butter 6 tabtespoons otive oiI pepper z Pour in the siocl<. Divide the meat and vegetables between shallow serving bowls and pour over the sauce. sl<imming frequentty to remove any scum. I 8z Meat . Boitthis zoomt. The venison chunl<s are ready they feet tightty springy when pressed. Bring to the boit. You could catt AS A MAIN DlSH it a posh stew. r5og baby Brussels sprouts. sliced r thyme sPrig :.

Repeat with the remaining dough. Meanwhite fit the pasta machine with the tagtiatette cutters. because I find it easier to make a larger Rolling homemade pasta is really a {-d quantity than work with a small amount. With the pasta machine set to its thicl<est setting. about 5mm thicl<.though of course it's possible to manage by yourself if there isn't anyone around to help. put the ftour. ravioli qnd tortellini. When you reach the thinnest setting. altow the sheets to dry for ro minutes before cutting - drape them over a clothes airer or the bacl< of a ctean chair.one to crank the machine and one to tease the sheet of pasta out ot' the rollers and stop it folding back on itself . Simpty add a few drops to the mixture as you whiz it in the processor.: :l il. the pasta is ready to be cut.l. Pass the dough sheet through the machine cutters. a piece of dough about the size of a l<iwi fruit. Wrap in 3 Tal<e 6 egg yotl<s z tablespoons olive oil cling film and [eave to rest for 3o minutes or so. fitted and shaped as required. or saffron water (page 98) as we ca[[ it. 0ur concentrated saffron essence. salt. egg yotl<s and olive oiI into a food processor and whiz until the mixture comes together to form coarse crumbs. Adjust the setting by one notch and repeat. ltalian 'oo' pasta flour (doppio zero) is now wideLy available from delicatessens and good supermarkets. or keep well wrapped in the fridge for a few days. The dough witt get progressivety smoother and more etastic. is ihe secret here. ' : : . feed the dough through two o. Turn on to a [ightly flour '/4 teaspoon sea salt 4 free-range eggs floured surface and l<nead we[[ untilthe pasta dough is smooth and soft. 86 Pasta and rice . Flatten the piece of dough to a rectangle. l<eep the rest wetI wrapped to stop it drying out. MAKES gooc 55og ltatian 'oo' pasta flour or plain r To mal<e the pasta. For tagliatelle.. twirting them into a nest a5 you 00 50. but not sticl<y. l<eeping the noodles separate as they emerge. narrowing the setting by one notch each time. This basic recipe produces quite a large amount of pasta dough. Continue in this way. z Tip this into a bowI and gather into a batl with your hands.t We use saffron water to give fresh pasta an inviting rich colour and subtle flavour. When the pasta sheet has passed through. three times. For tagliatetle. 4 For ravioti or tortellini. simply cut out the required shapes from the pasta sheets.homemade pasta job for two people . lnterleave them with freezer tissue wrap and seal well. You ca freeze the pasta sheets that you don't need straightaway in batches for later use. you will need about half of this quantity. tift the noodtes on to a tray. ' . eggs.

crushed coriander and r tablespoon warm water in a heatproof :. cool 3-tty and peet off the cting film. I serve the cannelloni topped with a hollandaise lightened with cheese and gratinded. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE ::: .'e : : . lf you prefer to avoid this terhninrrp herc nlacc the canne[oni join-side down in a greased ovenproof dish.and brush with otive oi[. Finatty beat in the ricotta and tightty whipped cream. [eaving the sediment behind' Mix in the olive oit. r fat garlic clove. drop by drop to begin with' then in a r:dy trickle. twisting the ends tightty til<e a cracl<er so they witt be watertight. Season and whiz to a pur6e. in a [arge : wrapped in cling film to hold them in shape. Ptace the cannelloni. . Sprinl<le with the grated Parmesan and r' untiI golden and bubbting. Halve the aubergine lengthways. Remove from the water. Coot. then drain again' Tear off large sheets -:. Lay the garlic slivers atong one cut surface and . finely diced 4oog fresh tuna r tablespoon chopped tarragon r tablespoon chopped basit sea salt and freshly ground pepper dice and place in a bowl. plus extra to brush r. Remove from the heat and cool.:-eheat the gritt untitvery hot. . loin-side down.':^eat the oven to zoooC. .ior about 3o minutes.'-cve ". spooning it along one -5 side. Rott each pasta sheet into a tube."+"{ - :e. Heat the butter gentty untiI metted' oil z egg yotl<s 6-8 coriander seeds. Here the . ready a large bowl of iced water. over a pan of simmering water and beat with a balloon whisl< untit r-z tablespoons freshly Parmesan cheese grated ' r :<ened and creamy. Uncover and proceed as above.. and boiI for # **':$ "$"{$it w. Remove from the heat. Gas 6. add the shallot and saut6 for about * -utes to soften. : :rvly whisk in the butter and oiI mixture. score the . add the canne[[oni . then wrap in r tablespoon wine vinegar 5og butter 4 tablespoons olive 'i :.:: rrocessor. then tip into ' : .ing fitm. : set aSide. ... Checl< the seasoning.. addingthe gartic.'rich together with the other aubergine hatf.. crushed squeeze of lemon juice 'r: carefulty pour into a jug. is diced fresh tuna combined with aubergine 'caviar'. then unwrap and scoop out the flesh into a a r smatl aubergine z tabtespoons olive oi[.:-proof dish and spoon over the sauce.'eanwhile.:s rg fitm. Laythe drained pasta Sauce: on top and divide the tuna fitting between them. Boilthe vinegar in a smatl pan until reduced by ' : '. -. r '. Add the cooled shallot and herbs. then immediately pour into a tiny dish. cut the tuna '' : :cm u 1 '. cover with foil and bal<e at r8ooC. allowing z minutes to soften' to the iced water to cool quicl<[y. enclosing the fitting. roog ricotta cheese z tablespoons double cream -' :he egg yoll<s. Pasta and rice 87 . coor< roods : 3''ng a targe shallow pan of water to the boit. mal<e the sauce.. Season with satt and pepper to taste. .?t 2 tablespoons olive oit in a frying pan. . thinly sliced r large shallot.cannelloni of tuna with ricotta ^ e:!oni are easy to make if you roll the filling in softened pasta sheets rather than stuff dried cannelloni tubes. Serve at once.: . then bind '- ihe aubergine pur6e. Gas 4 for zo minutes. 8 sheets fresh pasta (page 86) -:. r ninutes untitthey feel firm when pressed. Bring a large pan of satted water to the and btanch the pasta sheets in two batches. Wrap tightty in foit and bake for Filling: - nutes or uniiI softened. [il<e a mayonnaise. lay on a board and brush tighttywith oit. Meanwhile. . Then beat in the reduced vinegar and lemon f.

Drain and toss To serve: with the mushrooms..'.i. Saut6 for about 5 minutes untit they are softened. Lift out the mushrooms and shal<e well. btewits. then pat dry in a large clean tea toweI or l<itchen paper. wiromushroomtrimmingsarefutl offtavour.i i":f:'l. larger ones if necessary. so they need to be washed carefully. shemigi) z tablespoons olive oit r shallot.i. 1/z quantitY) r Set the tagtiatetle aside while you prepare the mushrooms. 88 Pasta and rice . They are favourite largely interchangeable here. Soal< for a few minutes in a bowl of tepid water. especially shemigi. pepper 3 Meanwhite. optiona[) about 5og Parmesan cheese.. finety chopped z59 butter :. until crisp.'ii. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE 45og fresh tagtiatelle. Checl< the seasoning. which you can embellish with a mushroom veloutd for a special occasion. Mushroom Vetout6 (see right.i'. 0r. girolles. cool< the pasta in a large pan of boiting satted water for r-z minutes untitjust al dente. Fresh wild mushrooms usually contain grit. i-i. swishing with your hands so atl debris sinl<s to the bottom.. Then towards the autumn we get wonderful ceps. finelY pared into shavings 4 Divide the mushroom pasta between warmed deep ptates or large shattow bowls and pour over the velout6 if required. t often combine them with Japanese mushrooms. Stice 25o-3oog selection of wild mushrooms (such as ceps. trompettes and blewits.:. Or you can use a mixture of wild mushrooms and cultivated chestnut mushrooms for a cheaper option.sodon'twastethem'Spreadthemon a plate lined with l<itchen paper and place in the airing cupboard for a day or untildry and crisp. toss in the cleaned mushrooms. so make your selection according to the seasan. Add the butter and when it has melted and starts to foam. Picl< over the witd mushrooms and trim the ends. During the summer my Scottish girolles are at their best. then add the rocl<et or spinach and heat untit the leaves witt. Serve topped with the Parmesan shavings. add the shaltot and saut6 gently for z minutes until softened.'. then mix in the cream and cool< roog wild rocl<et or baby spinach Ieaves sea salt and freshty ground blacl< for a minute or so. This is a simple pasta dish.::. Season to taste. Store in a bagfor up to l month.ooml double cream z Heat the otive oiI in a large frying pan.tagliatetle of witd mushrooms Wild mushrooms have distinctive individual flavours that combine beautifully in sauces. microwave on a low settingfor 5 minutes orso... preferably homemade (page 86.

cool< for about another 5 minutes. return to a simmer and rgh a sieve into a jug. then pour in the mushroom Iiquor and 3ooml Brown Chicken Stock (page zro).: .ced by half.. porcini or dried trimmings) in zoomt boiling :" for about ro minutes..Lot in z tablespoons olive oil untilsoftened but not coloured.-. Gently saut6 r finety cnoppeo . then lift out and chop. pressing with the bacl< of a tadLe. Bring to the boiL and simmer until - -ced by half again.: Soal< 5og dried mushrooms (morels. Finally. Reheat to serve. ceps. Pasta and rice 89 . Strain the liquor through a fine sieve and reserve. Add the mushrooms and r5omLdry white wine. Strain the sauce t* "ry . stir in roomI doubLe cream. Simmer until .

None of the fragrance or fresh flavour of the saqe is lost. rypicaLty. My way of in a sage-infused.':.. cream-enriched beurre noisette with shredded fresh sage Leaves added at the last moment gives an aLtogether different result. pasta is tossed with sage leaves that have been fried in butter untitfrazzled and crisp.=:.-:: i I pasta .F i:r:. serving i.

':rlespoons otive oiI and ptace on a large sheet of foit. roll each pasta batl into a long sheet.:redded sage leaves. and toss gently to mix. r Shape the ravioti (see overteaf) and ptace on a tray tined with a ctean tea towet.it adds a light texture and a "9 ': :f sweet almond flavour. peel and chop the pumpl<in. Set :: Jt- white breadcrumbs 1 -. then whiz in a food processor until Cool. Filling ond to serve: r. Finely grate hatf of the ::'Tesan. SERVES 6-8 AS A MAIN COU RSE : :'eheat the oven to r8ooC.:'right to allow excess Iiquid to drain away. 759 unsalted butter. l<eep wrapped untiI ready to ro[[. t'skinned French variety. : . tip the drained pumpkin into a bowt. leaving the sediment behind. Sage beurre noisette: 6 sage sprigs. about 8ox r3cm . Coo[ stightty. Return the beurre tal<e -risette to a low heat and stir in the cream.5l<g wedge fresh pumpl<in 6 : --e next day. scaitered with the last of the crushed amaretti Parmesan shavings.tter through a fine sieve into '-e a clean pan. uncovered. chopped :. Shred the sage leaves as finety as you can. strip the leaves from the sage statl<s and set 5 rs de. Saut€ the shattots in the remaining otive oil for minutes to soften. handful of crushed amoretti to ' ". : 'tvioli recipe a small . Ptace the foiI parcel on a bal<ing tray and bal<e for up to r egg yolk.rt the pasta into 8 pieces and rotI into balls. in pieces z tablespoons double cream -o make the sage beurre noisette. Pasta and rice 91 il . ':t' ond shavings of Parmesan. Put the unsatted butter in a saucepan with the sage stall<s and melt slowly. r . track down one of the comes from Angela Harnett at The Connaught. Mix with r quantity homemade saffron pasta dough (page 86) . Discard sage stalks. I like to serve the ravioli tossed in a sage-infused beurre noisette with shreds of fresh sage. then . Spoon into a large sieve placed over a bowt. which has a full flavour and excellent creamy texture. Gas 4. Season and draw the I Jp over the pumpl<in.oog fresh . Add the sage beurre noisette seasoning. offthe heat and add the 5 Meanwhile. -rnediatety tal<e off the heat and leave to stand for r minute. bring a large pan of tightly salted water to the boit. z Serve in warmed shallow bowts. '-en increase the heat and cool< untitthe moment the butter starts to turn brown. page 86). If possible. 5 tablespoons olive oil -:r mix into the pumpl<in flesh togeiher with the breadcrumbs. pumpkin a ravioli filling is an ltalian custom . Crush three ofthe biscuits and mixthese in too.:-'nesan and seasoning. beaten with cold water 1 teaspoon -:rr until the flesh is soft.:e Homemade Pasta. Crush the last ofthe amaretti and set aside. grated r5og Parmesan cheese z large shallots. Drain and return to the pan. plus stail<s -'tl in the refrigerator. then refrigerate -:oth. Pare the remaining piece j Parmesan into fine shavings. Deseed. Repeat with the rest and l<eep covered with a pepper :an tea towe[.pumpl<in and amaretti ravioli lt is one that she acquired from her ltalian grandmother. untiI ready to serve. You will need to cook the pumpkin o day in advance. add the ravioti :rd :rd :rd cook for z minutes. SlowLy strain the :. 4 amaretti biscuits sea salt and freshly ground blacl< -: 'rg a pasta machine.

3 .

:l:.:i... Pasta and rice 93 ....:..rt...:.....:: :.

Reserve the asparagus stall<s for the vetout6. 4 Put the crdme fraiche into a small pan. if using quai['s eggs. cool< serve: r-rf minutes until a Asparagus Velout6 (see right.smol(ed haddocl< and asparagus open ravioti Fresh pasta rounds are layered with a light. Repeat these layers. % quantity) Filling: z Poach the smol<ed haddocl< fitlet in the mitl< for about 5-7 minutes untit the ftesh is just beginning to flal<e. with asparagus velout6 if you [il<e.then drain and toss with in a smatl pan of boiling water for the To melted butter. about zz5g fresh pasta sheets. preferably homemade (page 86. heat gently. Remove the fish from the mill< and leave untiI cooI enough to handle. Add a layer ofthe asparagus and haddocl< sauce. asparagus tips and chives. Serve simply as an elegant lunch. then careful[y coat with tittte of the creamy sauce base. Checl< the seasoning. 5 Meanwhile. At the same time. cut out rz rounds from the pasta sheets. then sl<in and flal<e the flesh. optionat) then another pasta round. Drain and shetl. for a new take on lasagne. 3 Cut the stall<s from the asparagus spears. melted to refresh. place a round of pasta 0n each warmed ptate. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIcHT MEAL r Using a 7-8cm plain cutter. then top with the quail's eggs and spoon over a littte more sauce. leaving about rocm tips. and heat through. or make a delicate asparagus veloutd with the trimmings and spoon around the pasta ensemble for a special occasion. creamy sauce of smoked haddock and asparogus tips. then drain and plunge into a bowl of ice cold water zoog crdme fraiche r tablespoon chopped chives z5g butter. about 4oog 5ooml mill< 3oog thin asparagus spears tips in salted water for r-z minutes untiI just tender. then cover and set aside untiI ready to cool<. cool< the pasta in a pan of boiling water for rz quaill eggs (optionat) sea salt and freshly ground black pepper r-z minutes untit a/ dente. Serve immediatety. 9 4 PasIa and rice . Btanch the r large Finnan or undyed smoked haddock fi[[et. tightly cool<ed. then add the ftal<ed haddocl<. then served topped with lightly poached quail's eggs. 6 To assemble.

Whiz in a blender or food processor. Bring to the boi[.1":'r""". then pour in 3ooml Fish Stock (page zo9). then pass through a sieve. Pasta and rice 95 . rubbing with the back of a [adle. Reheat gently to serve. Return the sauce to the pan and stir in 2 tablespoons double cream.*ilf-*ilT$:Cllopthereservedasparagusstalksfinelyandsaut6withrfinelychoppedlargesha[[otin z tablespoons olive oil for about 5 minutes until softened.t"T. lower the heat and simmer for to minutes. Cook untilwilted.r'*i"J. Add a handful baby spinach leaves and the chopped leaves from a sprig of tarragon.

96 Pasta and rice .

to taste sea satt and freshly ground black : -..ed and drained. remove the ptate. Drain and dry on kitchen paper. Attow to rest for z hours. I : /ou wi[[ need to cool< the spatzte in batches.. Add another quarter of :re butter and continue to fry until the spatzte are puffed up and crispy.... Allow them a few more seconds.:. lmmediatety take off the heat and Leave to stand for r minute. Heat a quarter ofthe beurre noisette in a large frying :an. In the meantime. or with a light tomato sauce and freshly grated Parmesan for a light meal.npaniment to rich meat ond game stews. but it's easier to prepare. Once they are . then increase the heat and cook until the moment it starts to turn brown. -:r -:ke the beurre noisette (see below)..Vhen ready to cook. lf '::essary. Drain on l<itchen paper and (eep warm while you fry the rest. Season generousty with satt. r . Silg-iWSjfl. Ptace a spatzte plate or colander over the pan of boiling water. to serve ::oked. untilyou have a batter with a thicl< pouring consistency. beaten about 3 tablespoons cold water the water.r*&'**!&.***u . bring a large pan of water to the boit. Gradualty beat in the eggs. 4 Fry the spatzle in batches. sprinl<ted with chopped herbs. rub it through a slotted or colander directly into a pan of boiling water and the batter sets instantly into soft doughy squiggles.. Serve hot.vl of iced water.'. basil or chervil). When they are just finely chopped herbs (parsley. Ladle some runny dough on to the ate and immediately rub through. ru#$Sf. leaving the sediment behind. Repeat in batches until :^e dough is used up. add a tittte extra water. As soon as the dough is through. using a dough scraper or the bacl< of the pepper :d le.. become crispy and turn golden brown. Then slowly pour the golden brown butter into a heatproof bowl.TTfr Heat rz5g unsatted butter slowly in a saucepan.@&l&&d$&*li|*8li@t*!d*:*. .is*}6. the spatzte wi[[ rise to the surface. add hatf the spatzle and fry untit tightty browned. Serve os an . z5og plain ftour or'oo' pasta flour r teaspoon fine sea salt 4 medium eggs. . You simply make a thick eggy batter. then i out with a slotted spoon into the bowl of iced water. siRVES 4-6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT OR LIGHT MEAt : S i1 the flour and salt together into a large bow[..spatzle . I fry the spatzle in beurre noisette so they puff up. ': ' s the Germon answer to pasta. Have ready a [arge roog Beurre Noisette (see below) freshly grated nutmeg. Pasta and rice 97 . pepper and nutmeg to taste.

Of the different varieties of risotto rice available. or if using prawns. Add the [angoustine taits or prawns and stir-fry untit bright pinl< and firm. then coot. drain and 3 Btanch the baby broad beans in boiting water for z-3 minutes. lf they are stitt a tittte chaIl<y. my personal favourite is Carnaroli plump and remain firm. stirring frequently. dente (cool<ed. about 3 minutes. I(eep giji. neither need you a dish you can prepare ahead and reheat successfutly. then stir in the rice. Finalty. then add more 5og butter. Add the wine and reduce right down. The infused 'saffron water'gives risottos and pasta dishes an exotic flavour and rich colour. cool< for about z minutes. Arborio or Viatone Nano) r Bring a large pan of satted water to the boit. or chitt if you are severat hours ahead of serving' tiger prawns (heads removed) roog podded fresh baby broad beans about 5ooml Chicl<en Stocl< (Page zto) or Fish Stocl< (page zo9) 3 z Prepare the langoustines (see page zo). heat the otive oiI in a [arger pan and saut6 the shattot for 3 minutes until softened. 9 B rasta and rice . is almost all 5 Now add one third of the stocl< and stir frequentty untitthe stocl< absorbed.r. or 2oog raw for 5 minutes.my saffron shettfish risotto preparing a classic.:+'i'. then stip the beans out oftheir sl<ins. and stir untiI absorbed. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL zoog risotto rice (Carnaroli. Meanwhile.-}if-'i' in a jar in the fridge for up to 3 days. Cover and set aside until ready to cool<. then add the broad beans and stir gentty. To make this. once this stock is absorbed. Season and set aside' tablespoons olive oil r large or 3 smaller shallots. We don't test our clients' lt halves the keep your guests waiting at home if you adopt my risotto technique (described below and illustrated overleaf). then drain and spread out on a tray. stir ir the remaining butter and checl< the seasoning' 8 Divide the risotto between warmed bowls. Add hatf of the remaining stocl<. .: ii: we buy spanish saffron and make a concentrated essence by crushing saffron strands into a little boiling water. and this isn't patience in the restaurant. heat hatf the butter in a frying pan untiI it starts to foam. mix 1 teaspoon of saffron strands with 3-4 tabtespoons boiling water. Arrange the langoustines or tiger Drawns on top and scatter with Parmesan shavings. and use as required. Season and set aside. Serve immediately' ?it-iiir. finely chopped 4 tablespoons dry white wine 4 Bring the stocl< to a simmer in a pan. stir in the saffron water.#. or freeze as tiny ice cubes. set the peeled langoustine tails or prawns aside.) 6 In the meantime. Add the rice and btanch the grains zo langoustine taits. chilted and cubed 1 teaspoon saffron water (see below) r tabtespoon finety chopped chervil r tablespoon finety chopped chives z tablespoons freshly grated stock. creamy risotto by the traditional method can take up to 20 minutes with constant attention. grains are the because cooking time. foItowed by the herbs and Parmesan. (This stage only tal<es around ro minutes. Add another third of the stocl<. to serve bite). peeI and remove the darl< intestinaI thread. but retaining a 7 When the risotto is creamy and the rice is a/ Parmesan cheese sea salt and freshly ground blacl< pepper Parmesan cheese shavings. checl< the rice grains.

3 Add a quarter of the simmering stock and cool<. finety chopped zoog risotto rice (Carnaroli. Drizzle with a little olive oiI and scatter with extra chopped herbs. mal<e your reduction. sllce each scallop in half horizontatty. mar<ing sure each addition is absorbed before adding another. Serve immediatetv. Add a thin fitm of otive oit. This shoutd tal<e about r5 minutes. cleaned (see page r9) Add the remaining stocl<. then place the scaItops in the pan. pourthe Baroto and port into a saucepan and bring to the boit. 6 l<ing scallops. you may not need to add all of the stocl<. bring the stocl< to a simmer in a saucepan. in a circle. Remove to a warmed ptate and allow to rest white you finish the risotto. but I also Iike to serve them with a freshly cooked herb risotto' Full-bodied Barolo. Arborio or Vialone Nano) 4 tablespoons dry white wine z To mal<e the risotto. press the scailops with the bacl< of a forl<: if rney feet slightty springy they are ready. arrange the scallops on top and tricl<te over the gtaze. to make a syrupy graze r Set aside to cool. spoon the risotto into shatlow bowls. warm the red wine and oorr gtaze. the butter and chopped herbs into the risotto. heat z tablespoons olive oil in a deep saucepan and saut6 the shattot forabout 5 minutes untiI softened. Cool< for t/zminutes. from oriental and spicy to rich red wines. creamy flavour that suits different flavourings. Pour in the white wine and cool< until reduced right down.then turn (in the same r tablespoon chopped basit r tablespoon chopped chives sea salt and freshly ground blacl< pepper extra chopped herbs. stirring untit it is att absorbed. Season with satt and pepper to taste. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR z AS A MAIN D|SH z5omI Barolo wine z5oml ruby port 6ooml Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) or Fish Stocl< (page zo9) First. by which large l<nob of butter r tablespoon chopped tarragon time the rice will be tender but stiil have a good bite. Bubble untiI reduced to about 4 tabtespoons. Add the rice and cook for z minutes until the grains are opaque. cookthe othersiae for a minute orso. a tadtefut at a time. Saut€ed scallops are delicious served simply with a green salad. 5 stir 1O2 Pasta and rice . 4 when the risotto is almost cooked. until gotden. to serve orderyou placed them in the pan to ensure even cool<ing). heat a heavy-based frying pan or ridged griddte until you feeI a good heat rising. one of the great wines of ttaly.green herb risotto with sautded scallops Scallops have o delicious sweet. Meanwhite. about 4 tablespoons otive oit r shallot. is reduced down with port to make a rich glaze for the scallops.

allow to stand 'r: 5 minutes. -eat fit. sptit open z star anise (optionat) z cloves : '. .^ the dish and snip a tiny hole in the centre to mal<e a steam vent' r large onion. tg tin is not suitqble. Press on ':in. then drain the rice in a sieve. Set aside. in pieces . haLf-fill with cold running water and swish the rice grains with your fingers.l:. turning the edges up and pressing them to the side ofthe pan for .3al<e in the oven for about z5 minutes. Mal<e a cartouche a circle of greaseproof ' : a medium round casserote dish: cut stightty larger . using the [arger volume if you prefer a more tender stocl< into the rice along with the satt and pepper to taste.i.. I l . Repeat twice more untiI the water runs clear. teaspoon sea salt freshly ground blacl< pepper i:1. removing the whole spices before erving if you prefer. then add the . use best qualitv basmati rice.1. a .whote spice basmati pitaff an easy pilaff.:.':. Remove from the oven. Mal<e sure the vent is visible. Forl< through the remaining butter . Tip out the water {eaving the wet grains behind. rnisfragrant rice is best washed to remove excess starch and lighten the grain. Cool< for a minute or two. ^tit the rice grains are ftuffy and separate. Mix the cartouche. : SERVES 4-6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT z5og basmati rice 75g butter : -se the rice (see betow).'eLt two thirds of the butter in the ftameproof casserote dish and saut6 the rn for about 5 minutes until softened.-1::iilli . 5oo-5oomI Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) or water 1 . Preheat the oven to r8ooC. you can omit the spices and flavour the simolv with herbs and lemon zest. whole spices and lemon or orange zest. Alternatively. The whole spices can be removed before serving if you like.. and then remove the cartouche. A round cast-iran casserole is the ideal cooking pot. -g the rice white and gtistening but olso fragrant and delicious. Add the rice and stir wel[. Pasta and rice 1O3 . Put the rice into a [arge bowt. which is simpty left to cook in the oven. There is no need to cover with a tid' finety pared zest of r lemon or orange. finety chopped r large thyme sprig r bay leaf z cinnamon sticl<s 6 cardamom pods. i'ing : the stocl( to the boit. Gas 4.'f s..

but stitl partially tiquid in the centre. velvety smooth soup. For a more etaborate 5 To To serve: finish. to6 Vegetabtes . stide a poached egg into each portion and top with a spoonfutof caviar. powoer z tablespoons olive oil z Heat the otive oit in a large saucepan and gentty saut6 the shallot and potatoes for 5-7 minutes until softened.fl.watercress and Potato souP This is one of you make it. For a special occasion. Pour three quarters into ice cube trays. Or if you prefer. Carefully pour in a little more stock to cover and freeze until solid. float a poached oyster on each serving. remove the r large shallot. drizzle with a either z tablespoons crEme fraiche. reserve the [iquor. sprinkle in the boui[[on teaspoon vegetable bouitlon oowder and stir until dissolved. finely choPPed 2oog waxy potatoes (such as Charlotte). For a simpte finish. reheat the soup (if necessary). SERVES z AS A STARTER r titre Vegetable Nage (Page zr:. to fi[[ about zo cavities. This is best 4 whiz the mixture untiI smooth. welI washed and transfer the leaves and potato to a food processor. bacl< graduatty. Freeze until sotid around the edges. tadte into warmed bowls and top with a dottop of crdme fraiche. Alternatively. simply garnish each portion with a ooached ovsfer. then drop pan from the hea: watercress and spinach.ffitrp $iffi #t$ffiffi'% use 5oomtvegetabre Nage (page 211). peeted and finetY chopped z5og watercress. divide the soup between chitted bowts. The oit should be trapped inside each ice cube. in the 3 Pour in the vegetable stocl< and bring to a rotling boit. 6 To serve chitted.) 1 r For the stocl<. pepper serve hot. using a stotted spoon. adding the liquor done in stages to ensure a very smooth texture. Do not allow them to colour. topped with a dollop of crEme fraiche. chitt untit required (untess you smal[ handful of baby spinach leaves sea salt and freshly ground bacl< are serving the soup hot and straightaway).to flavour as serve it chilled as a refreshing summer soup. bring the vegetabte nage to the boit. impart and it cool you keep like . Using the tip ofa small teaspoon. those invaluable recipes that can be buitt on and taken to new heights each time At its simplest' Or. to drizzle gffif#. that's delicious served hot. float a poached egg in the centre of each serving and top (as iltustrated) - you break the softly set egg into the soup as you eat it. infused with olive oil ice cubes if with a spoonful of caviar they slowly melt. you can it is a fresh tasting. like a bubble' Use straight from the freezer. As soon as the leaves witt. hotlow out the centre of each cube and pour in about 1 teaspoon olive oil. tightty whipped or 4 medium poached eggs (see page r4o) and z5g can caviar or 4 poached oysters little otive oit and add a few olive oiI ice cubes to each serving if you til<e' plus olive oi[.

a.' lf i am serving this soup warm topped with p0ached eggs.. simp[1i piace a poachecl egg in eacfr portion the heat ofthe co. When ready to serve.:t::!. I find ii Iess oi a hassLe to prepare them in advance. Follow the instructions fcr poaching eggs on page 14o.cni ic wd'* r-e oqe.::!r ala : l:i ...a::t:.ii ' . .p wiLr be suftic.' o 9".

Pass the soup through a sieve into a ctean pan (or bowt if you are not serving straightaway. Adding a couple of handfuls of tender spinach leaves helps to boost the natural asparagus colour without detracting from the flavour. chopped r fat garlic clove. 5aut6 gentty for about ro minutes trimmings if avaitabte) 75g butter r onion. see below).use them here. Then stir in the spinach and cook briefty. cover and chill untit required roB Vegetables . bring the chicl<en stocl< or vegetabte nage to the boit in another pan. f. Rub 'l 2 teaspoon truffle oil teaspoons finely chopped chives the putp in the sieve wiih the back of a ladle to extract as much ftavour as possibte. we cool the pur6ed soup as quickty as possibLe. not the texture. Reheat the soup gently un: almost at a simmer. roog baby leaf spinach sea salt and freshly ground blacl< pepper To serve: r5omI double cream 4 Pur6e the vegetables in a btender or food processor. Add the asparagus pieces and saut6 for a further 5-ro minutes untiI softened. tightty whip the cream with the truffle oiI and seasoning untit softty peaking. season to taste and simmer for 3 minutes. Heat the butter in a large saucepan and. don't need to seek out young. z Meanwhile. 5 To serve. lmmediately remove from the heat and strain the stock. graduatty adding the stocl< bacl< until you have a creamy [iquid. reserving the vegetabtes.asparagus soup with truffle cream Make this soup in the spring when homegrown asparagus is in season and available at You a good price. To achieve this.ffi ffiE:-S Sffitrffiffi"$" In the restaurant we prepare this soup ahead. SERVES + AS A STARTER rl<g green asparagus (inctuding r Chop the asparagus into sma[[ even-sized pieces. untitjust wilted. add the onion and gartic. When the soup is cold. but do not boiI or you wi[[ destroy the amazing colour and flavour. chopped 75omI Chicken Stocl< (page zro) or Vegetable Nage (page zu) until softened but not coloured. so don't discard the woody ends and peelings ifyou?e preparing asporagus to serve as a vegetable . when it starts to sizzte. tender spears - ift the flavour you need. 3 Pour the hot stocl< over the asparagus. by pouring it straight ftom the blender into a bowl that is hetd in a larger bowl containing plenty ofice cubes and a tittle water. Serve in warmed bowts toppec with dollops of truffle cream and chopped chives. You will achieve a good result with a combination of stalks and trimmings. remove from the bowt of ice. as you probably will if you're entertaining. The trick is to capture the freshness and colour of the asparagus.

Pour into warmed bowls and top with the pan-roasted vine tomatoes. stirring once or twice and adding the basit :owards the end of cool<ing. halved :. z Tip small handfuI of thyme sprigs 1 teaspoon caster sugar smal[ handfuI of basil sprigs r titre Chicl<en Stock (page zro) or a the roasted tomatoes and flavourings into Vegetable Nage (page zm) 3 smol<ed sun-dried cherry tomatoes saucepan. halved . rl<g plum tomatoes. Pass the soup through a sieve into a ctean pan or To serve: z tablesooons olive oil bowt. If you can't find these. Roast in the oven for zo-25 minutes until nicety :aramelised. together with onions and herbs. essential. To enhance . drained (or z semi-soft sun- iomatoes. Pour the olive oiI into a 4 tablespoons olive oil ': asting tin and heat in the oven until atmost smol<ing. heat the olive oiI in a frying pan. (lllustrated overleaf) taRVES a AS A STARTER : )'eheat the oven to zzooC. Drizzle the pan luices around the tomatoes and scatter with basit leaves. dried tomatoes and r tablespoon barbecue sauce) sea salt and freshly ground black 3 Strain the stocl<. Snip the vine tomatoes into four clusters and frv them on the vine for about a minute. Bring to the boit. Bring the stock to the boit in another pan. :refu[[y tip in the tomatoes. : lovour I add smoked sun-dried cherry tomatoes with a hickory flavour. Vegetabtes 709 . onion rings and garlic. then '-rss to coat in the oil. of course. add the smoked tomatoes (or semi-soft sun-dried tomatoes plus barbecue sauce) and cool< for 5 minutes. discarding any woody thyme stail<s.rrinl<le with sugar and season generously with satt and :epper. rubbing with the back of a ladle. but it's best served warm small basil leaves rather than piping hot. onion. Flavourful tomatoes are. 2oo-3oog baby cherry tomatoes on the vine 4 For the garnish.. Gas 7. Taste and adiust the seasoning.my roasted tomato soup . 5 Reheat the soup if necessary. then pour over the in oi[. thinty sliced z fat garlic cloves. Tip the pepper tomatoes into a blender or food processor and whiz. reserving the tomato mixture. perlative fresh tomato soup is one of the hallmarks of a good cook. My secret is to first roast the :ioes. Scatter over the thyme sprigs. graduatty adding the stocl< bacl< in. untiI smooth and creamy. stitute snipped soft sun-dried tomatoes and a dash of borbecue sauce.

pan-roasted pumpl<in satad with ricotta and cro0tons
pumpkins are in season during the autumn and, of course, they are everywhere around Hallowe'en. Punpkin flesh has a delectable sweet, creamy flavour that tends itself beautifully to tasty soups, fillings for ravioli (see page 9t), and pureds to
accompany rich meats and game. Chopped and pan-roasted, it forms the basis of a fabulous starter salad. I prefer the brown-skinned ridged pumpkins - popular in France and the West lndies. These are often sold here in thick wedges, but you small round 'jack-o-lantern' pumpkin if you like. Pumpkin oil is available from healthfood shops. Dark golden in colour with a worm nutty aroma, it makes a tasty addition to salad dressings and is ideal for trickling over warm vegetables.

can

use a

SERVES4ASASTARTER Peel the pumpl<in: the easiest way to do this is to cut it into wedges first, with

r small, ripe pumpkin, or about rl<g unpeeted weight

r

a

heavy-btaded l<nife. Then scoop out the seeds and stringy membrane and peeI

about r5og mixed sharp salad [eaves,
such as fris6e and wild rocl<et

offthe sl<in, using

a

short, sharp knife' Chop the flesh into rcm cubes and season

with salt and pepper.
2 Separate the fris6e leaves, then tear into sma[[er pieces. Wash the fris6e and

4-5 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra

to brush
5og butter
1/z

rocket, dry well and ptace in a large bowl'

small ciabatta or baguette

3 Heat the otive oit in a targe frying pan, add the pumpl<in cubes and saut6 for about 5 minutes. Add the butter and cool<, shaking the pan constantly, for a further 3-4 minutes until the pumpl<in cubes are nicely caramelised and softened. Remove and drain on l<itchen paper; attow to coot stightty. 4 Meanwhile, stice the ciabatta or baguette thinty and brush with olive oil. Lightty toast on both sides untiI crisp.
5 Lightty dress the salad leaves with the vinaigrette. Add the warm pumpkin cubes and pumpl<in seeds, and toss gentty to mix, seasoning to taste. Divide between serving ptates. Spread the ciabatta toasts with the ricotta, season anc ptace atongside the satad. Drizzte the balsamic vinegar and pumpkin oil over, ascatter with Parmesan shavings to serve.
-

4 tablespoons Vinaigrette (page zt8) 4 tablespoons pumpkin seeds,

toasted 3-5 tablespoons ricotta cheese z tablespoons balsamic vinegar r tablespoon pumpl<in oil
sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

pepper

about z59 Parmesan cheese, finelY
pared into shavings, to serve

172

Vegetabtes

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ror optirum flavour it's important to use a rea[[y ripe pumpkin here - bright golden flesh indicates that the vegetable is pumpkin' ripe and readv to cool(. Roasting in the pan or oven gives a firmer texture and more pronounced flavour than boiling
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herb gnocchi with tomato satsa
dish. Rather than boil and mash potatoes in the usual way for gnocchi, I bake them for a fuller flavour and fluffier texture, then mash. Sautdeing the gnocchi in oil and butter before serving crisps the surface and gives them a delicious fLavour. SERVES z AS A MAIN COURSE, 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL OR STARTER
This recipe is all about

getting extra flavour into

a simple

z large bal<ing potatoes, about

r

Preheat the oven to r8ooC, Gas 4. Scrub the potatoes, but don't score or slit
a

4oog each
16o9 ptain flour
1

them. Bal<e for about tt/ahours untiI soft in the centre when pierced with
sl<ewer. Set aside to cool for

ro minutes, then peel off the sl<ins. Mash the potato

teaspoon fine sea salt

ftesh in a bowl or press through a potato ricer, then teave to cool comptetety. z When the mash is coo[, mix in the flour and salt until evenly incorporated, then add the herbs, Gradually worl< in the beaten egg untityou have a smooth, firm dough

r tablespoon chopped basit r tablespoon chopped parsley

r [arge free-range egg, beaten
4 tablespoons olive oi[, plus extra to

-

you may not need to add att of it.

drizzle
5og butter
Tomoto solsa:
6

3 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boit. Have ready a [arge bowl of iced water. Divide the dough into 8 balts, then rotl each out on a tightty ftoured
surface to a [ong, narrow sausage, about 3ocm [ong, and flatten very stightty to
mal<e an oval shape. Cut

the rotts, stightty on the diagonal, into 3cm [engths,

using the bacl< of a table l<nife or thicl< cool<'s l<nife. 4 Cool< the gnocchi in batches. Add about a quarter of them to the boiling water and cool< f or z-3 minutes, untiI they rise to the surface. Lift out with a stottec spoon and ptace in the bowl of iced water. Leave for a minute or so, then drain

vine-ripened ptum tomatoes

r sma[[ red onion, finety chopped
z spring onions, finely sticed

iuice of r Iime r tablespoon sesame oil
generous dash of Tabasco

wetl and pat dry with l(itchen paper. Repeat to cool< the remaining gnocchi,
atways returning the water to a rotting boiI in between,
5 When all

the gnocchi are cool<ed and cooled, combine them in a bowl. DrizzLe

r tablespoon finety chopped basit r tablespoon finety chopped coriander
a
,4

with a tittte olive oitto l<eep them separate, then cover with cting fitm and chi.. until required.
6 To mal<e the satsa, dip the tomatoes in boiting water for 3o seconds or so to loosen the sl<ins, then into cold waterto refresh;drain and peel awaythe sl<ins. Quarter, core and deseed the tomatoes. Finely chop the ftesh and place in a bo,'

sea salt and freshly ground blacl<

pepper

:::

I

with the other salsa ingredients. Toss to mix and season wett, then spoon into
serving dish.
7

a

t, 5 n
E

When ready to serve, heat z tablespoons olive oiI and hatf the butter in a larg.

i$'$ffiff-S SffiffffiffiT cuttng
the dough with the thicker edge of a

frying pan untit hot. Saut6 the gnocchi, in batches, for 3-4 minutes untit goldebrown and crispy on both sides. Drain on l<itchen paper and keep warm, uncovered in a low oven, white you saut6 the rest of the gnocchi, using the remaining oil and butter as needed. Serve with the tomato salsa.

x
.: =

knife has the effect of blunting the ends and gives the gnocchi their characteristic pinched edges. Cool< the gnocchi as soon as you have cut them, so they don't dry out.

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11 I

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crimp this with a fork. beaten with r teasPoon cold water (egg wash). but don't wash or peel them. then add the mushrooms and stir-fry over lntiI softened and cool<ed. chop the or by putsing in a food processor. Serve with a salad' Vegetables 775 .you should make ro-rz. mal<e the pancal<e batter. to glaze sea salt and freshly ground blacl< rossibte . prepare the mushroom duxette. ith a damp cloth. mushrooms as available 5og butter 7 r tablespoon olive oil r teaspoon chopped tarragon r tablespoon sherrY or Madeira 3og fresh white breadcrumbs r egg yolk 8 Place the tortes ftat-side down on a non-sticl< bal<ing sheet. Trim the baked mushrooms to the same size. and finatty top with the remaining mushrooms. Gas 5. Brush the tops with the metted butter and place. Served with a leafy salad. Score the pastry with the tip of a thin knife. Brush round the edges with egg wash. wipe ctean (save for the . egg and milk in a btender or . Heat a r5cm cr6pe pan and oil tightty. season with satt and pepper and bal<e for ro minutes. radiating from the centre but don't cut right through' Brush at[ over with egg wash and rest in the fridge for 15 minutes or so' g Bal<e the tortes for zo minutes or untiI puffed and golden brown' Leave on the bal<ing sheet for ro minutes. this is an ideal main - : Lrse if you are entertaining vegetarians. and add the tarragon and sherry or r egg yolk.:od processor untiI smooth. Leave to a :oot in the tin.torte of fietd mushrooms -ese impressive tortes are a vegetarian version of a popular starter on the menu at Cloridges. The duxetle shoutd be soft. Rolt out the pastry (hatfat a time for easy handting) on a tightty floured board to a 3mm thicl<ness.. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE r First. Put the mushroom pancal<e parcels on the smalter rounds and cover with the larger ones. but quite dry (if necessary cool< for a littte yotk' ronger to evaporate any tiquid). whiz the ftour. mal<ing them as thin and lacy as possible . cap-side up. melted olive oi[. then mix in the breadcrumbs and egg Poncake botter: roog plain flour pinch of salt r Stir the melted butter into the pancal<e batter.You will need to buy tz large . using a 7cm cutter if necessary. then drain off any iuices and chitt. layer the r free-range medium egg z5oml miil< r tablespoon melted butter Mushroom duxelle: 15og chestnut mushrooms.. or wild whote bal<ed mushrooms and duxelte. then trim to leave a rcm edge. Ptace join-side down on a plate and refrigerate' Set the oven to zoooc. or ready-made puff :uxelle if you til<e). Pour into a jug and leave to rest in the fridge. z preheat the oven to rgooc. cut off the stall<s rz large flat mushrooms. at least 8cm diameter 6o9 butter.r roasting tin. Cut out four rzcm rounds and four r5cm rounds. salt.lling mushrooms portobello mushrooms are ideal ond widely avoilable. 6 Wrap each mushroom sandwich in a pancal<e (they won't be comptetety enctosed). To prepare the large mushrooms. . mushrooms as finely as 3 Meanwhite. Cook the pancal<es. for frying 5oog Puff Pastry (page r9o). spoon half the duxelte evenly on top of 4 mushrooms. Coot. then carefutly stide on to ptates. Gas 6. Heat the butter and oiI in a a high heat 'rying pan untiI reatty hot. Repeat to shape the rest ofthe tortes. 5 Now. Cover each with another mushroom. season to taste. Cup one parcel upside-down in your hand and carefutty press the edges together. then another layer of duxette.by hand pepper adeira. Set aside the 4 thinnest pancakes to coo[ (freeze the rest).

Drain ano pepper oat dry when ready to cook. ready to reheat and serve. blewits. then into iced water. Heat a littte otive oiI in a smal[ frying pan and saut6 :he artichol<es for z-3 minutes. then refresh. 6-8 babyturnips. morels and shemigi) sea salt and freshly ground blacl< lover with a butter paper and cool< over a medium heat for 5 minutes untit lust :ender (the nage will have reduced down to a gtaze).you might like to serve more of 1once their fabulous colours and flavours. tittte butter teaspoon vitamin C powder. then quarter and deseed.'me veloutd. peas and broad beans quicl<ry Thyme Velout6 (page zrz) and separatety in a littte hot nage with a littte butter for up to r minute.just tender. z Little Gem lettuces egetable peeter. Drain and . 3[anch for z minutes and refresh in iced water. Babyturnips Btanch for 3 minutes or until iust tender. quartered unless tiny zoog mixed wild mushrooms (such as girol[es. thinty sliced z thyme sprigs :lmatoes into boiling water for 3o seconds or so. drain and pat dry. Heat a thin layer of otive oiI in a pan and saut6 the mushrooms over a high heat until. Blanch the spears in boiling water for z minutes. Lay cut-side down in a shallow -:asting tin and cover with olive oit. Add slivers of gartic.hours untit the ftesh is soft but intact. cut-side down. or juice of r lemon turnips. but sophisticated selection of vegetables is served with a tight a '''oller selection ofvarieties. 4 AS A LTGHT MEAL oR STARTER Confit oftomatoes Set the oven to the lowest setting (Bo-roo. Saut6ed wild mushrooms Trim the statl< bases. Drop '-rto cold water acidulated with the vitamin c powder or lemon juice. SERVES z AS A MAIN couRsE.assiette de legumes with thyme veloutd ':getarian dishes are an increasingly popular choice in my restaurants and I en joy creating new medleys of vegetables that " : -' . CooI and pat dry. Dip the z-3 plum tomatoes z fat garlic cloves. Coot. plus extra for reheating a 1 the base. The tomatoes can be served at room temperature. Season tightty and pour in vegetabte nage to a depth of rcm.s plenty of ice in freezer to keep the refreshing water cool. Baby artichokes Trim the stall<s and hatve the artichol<e hearts [engthways. Make sure there. then scrape out the smatt hairy chol<e on olive oil 6oomlVegetabte Nage (page zu). in a tittte otive oiI 'or r-z minutes. you will need ''e crge pan of lightly salted woter for blanching and a big bowl of iced water for refreshing. thyme and basil sprigs.C). Season tightty and set aside. Prepare each vegetable separately as described. or a mixture of both coI in the oit. TO SERVE Reheat the asparagus. ceps. trlace in the oven for about r/. Peas and broad beans Pod these and stip the broad beans out oftheir sl<ins. cooI stightty. Pour in 3oomlvegetable nage and simmer for To cook: :5-zo minutes untiltender. then drain wel[. Vary the vegetables according to the season and personal preference . then remove loog peas or baby broad beans. Vegetables 777 . Reheat the vetout6 and pour inro a jug. or mixture of both 4 baby artichol<e hearts a :o a bowl of iced water. Eraised lettuces Halve lengthways and saut6. Arrange the vegetabtes on serving ptates and accompany with the vetout6. saut6 the artichokes and mushrooms separately and briefty in a tittte otive oil untit hot. ip off the sl<ins. This simple. tuparagus Trim the base of the stail<s and peel the tower third with a swivel . lettuce. rinse the mushrooms quicl<ty in cold water. season and : z basil sprigs 2oog green or white asparagus spears. Remove.

blanched or tightly fried. Cut the artichol<e hearts into batons and add to the acidutated water. trimmed 3 tablespoons olive oil z medium carrots.t' Fi : This is simply i ta grecque + veoetarian main cooled in a balsamic selection of my favourite vegetables. cut straight down above the heart to remove the hairy fibres of the chol<e' Scrape off any stray chol<e with a teaspoon to leave the A r [arge or 3 smatI sha[[ots. using a heavy cool<'s l<nife. ':u :+-r . but stitt retaining a good bite. shattot and leel<s with the crushed coriander for :+ I -.{ 4 q a?-. oiherwise it wit[ turn brown. rrB vegetables . Add the vinaigrette. chopPed 1 * ai . sticed z baby [eel<s. lt's very versatile .ri" ]:.: r minute. Checl< the seasoning and serve sprinl<ted with chopped coriander' l*: *i il |'. creamy flesh that resembtes white i: -l asparagus.e pepper -= just tender.. SERVES AS A STARTER OR ACCOMPANIMENT.-. satsify and artichol<e batons and boil for z-3 minutes until * : r tablespoon choPPed coriander leaves sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< % . vegetabtes ffi -F .. trimmed iuice of I lemon z globe artichokes r Peet the satsify thinty. z-3 minutes untitiust softened. thintY sticed g - only the hearts are used' To expose them. 6 Stir in the blanched vegetables and heat for a minute or so. As soon as you peel the vegetable. then finatty drizzle the batsamic vinegar over the vegetables. i This ugly vegetable doesn't took particutarly inviting but it has a good flavour' PeeI away the darl< outer skin to reveal a pale.': LiF li:::. immerse it in acidulated water (with lemon iuice orvitamin C added)..serve as a Starter. then cut into smatI batons (or thick jutienne strips) and ptace in a bowt of cold water acidulated with the lemon juice. Remove with a stotted spoon and ptunge into a bowl of iced water to coot' btanch for 4 Add the mangetout to the boiting water and ea . peel around the base ofthe heart' Then turn the heart on its side and. then grilled steaks or chops' or as Q dressing. crushed (page zr8) 3 tabtespoons Vinaigrette z tablespoons balsamic vinegar heart. cut off the stall<s and putt off all the teaves untityou reach the hairy chol<e' Using a small sharp l<nife. Halve the mangetout crossways' Add the 3 Bring a [arge pan of satted water to the boit. pan and saut6 the 5 Heat the otive oiI in a [arge frying carrots. z Prepare the artichol<es loog mangetout. stir for a few seconds. as an accompaniment to two.+: 3€i teaspoon coriander seeds. then drain and add to the iced water to refresh' Drain the cooted vegetables and shal<e dry. z A5 A MAIN couRsE meal a for $ H z medium satsifY..

fricassde of witd mushrooms in this incredibly easy. swishing with your hands so all jebris sinl<s to the bottom. trompettes des morts and blewits at this time you need to wash and dry them carefully before cooking' -itshrooms often contain grit and debris. Saut6 for about 5 lntit they are softened. blewits) z tablespoons olive oil r shaltot. Season to taste' then mix in the cream and cook for a minute or so' and fish' a Serve as an accompaniment to gritted meats wlro mushroomscan be expensive but with a combination of Vou can mal<e a delicious fricass6e brown or chestnut cultivated and fresh witd mushrooms mushrooms. add the shallot saute gentty for 3 minutes untilsoftened' to foam' Add the butter and when it has metted and starts 3 pepper minutes :oss in the cleaned mushrooms.ild mushrooms have sERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r First witd mushrooms and trim the encls' minutes in a Slice [arger ones if necessary.:companiment. girolles. Drain and shal<e wetl' then pat picl< over the 3oog setection of witd mushrooms . autumn of year' Fresh wild : -trsuppliers bring in wonderful ceps. you could use half cultivated e$€ffiF-S Y$ffi soaked mushrooms with just one wild variety' adding some flavour' the dried porcini or ceps to beef up Vegetables 179 . spread the mushrooms out on a tray ano further' otace them uncovered in the fridge to dry out and z Heat the olive oit in a large frying pan. Alternatively. of course. so . Soak for a few forest rowt of tepid water. Make your selection according to the during the summer' their warm golden glow ) tn.(such as cePs. Available is prime time for wild mushrooms and ::d f|avour add a special quality to this dish. elegant distjnctive individual flavours that shine through season and the best looking varieties on sale' ..t miss out on my favourite scottish girolles. finelY choPPed z5g butter rooml doubte cream sea salt and freshlY ground black iry in a large clean tea towel or kitchen paper' lf not using mmediately.:..

stirintheflourandcoo|<.Seasontotasteandremovefromtheheat. then tip into a sha[[ow ovenproof dish' whip the cream' then fotd in' 6 Beat the egg yotl<s into the cheese sauce' Lightty Chec|<theseasoning.orbletteasitiscalledinFrance. glossy sauce pepper Simmerforzminutes. Cheddar or Beaufort) rPreheattheoventorgooc.:'.Leaveforz-3minutes' then remove with the slotted spoon and drain' 3Addtheshreddedchardtotheboitingwaterandbtanchforjustoverlminute' Drainandrefreshintheicedwater(asabove). for I minute.removeanddrainwell. then sprin|<te with the grated Parmesan.usingaswiveIpee[er. a 72O Vegetables .thenhalvelengthways. 5oog Swiss chard leaves 3oomI mitk 75g butter zog ptain flour (such as 5og grated hard cheese Gruy6re.Leavetostandforrominutesbeforeserving.Mixwiththechardbatonsandleaves.SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENI | 'r. but here l've turned it into a tasty gratin. thintY sticed r tablespoon olive oil grated zest of r lemon z egg yoll<s removewithastottedspoonandaddtotheicedwater.then r onion. thoroughtyhotandbubbting. then pat dry with kitchen paper and set aside' rooml double cream z tablesPoons freshlY grated Parmesan cheese sea salt and freshtY ground blacl< 4Toma|<ethesauce.Gas5.Whenco[d. hot mitl<' Cool<' stirring stirring. then graduatty whisk in the with a coating consistency' constantty. so they are best treated separately to maximise their ftavour and different textures. they are best cooked separately' Swiss stalks and leaves take different times to to simple grilled or as a vegetarian main course' or accompaniment tart. this point in advance and chitled until ready to serve') 'ii:.Cuttheleavesintozcmthic|<shreds' Have ready a large bowl of z Bring a large pan of tightty satted water to the boit' icedwater.Pourthesauceoverthechardandonions. heat the gotden' Add the lemon gently saut6 the onion for about ro minutes untit soft and zestandsaut6forafewsecondslonger. {i "i' il il} s*t$ chard stalks oven for 15 minutes or until golden brown on 7 Bake the gratin in the top' tal<e lorger to cook than the leaves. Sticethesta[|<sintobatons.haspalegreen.Stirinthe ro minutes' cheese untit metted and set aside to cooI for the otive oit in a frying pan and with remaining butter 5 Meanwhite.heatthemit|<inapanalmostuntitboiting.stirringgentlyto (The dish can be prepared to combine. The stall<s need to be btanched first (as You would cook celery). serve z AS A MAIN COURSE roasted meat and fish. the leaves are then wilted in similar fashion to sPinach.\ gratin of Swiss chard with lemon swisschard.tn1t"

.thenremoveand setaside'Heat5ogbutterinaSaucepanuntiIfoaming.thick'fleshystalkstoppedwithcrispdarkgreenleaves'Asthe chard is often used to make a creamy cook.rcmthic|<.washthechardwettandcutthepalegreen lf with a V-shaped cut at the point where they ioin' statl<s from the leaves necessary'peetthestat|<stightty. untit you have a smooth.Btanchthechardsta[|<batonsintheboitingwaterfor5minutes.

'unpeeled) on a bed of rock salt in a foil parcel. Wearing a pair of thin rubber gloves (to avoid staining your hands). Remove. or at room temperature. Cook them my way to bring out their full flavour - bake whole . (lllustrated overleaf) SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r Preheat the oven to r8ooC. zoog rocl< salt z Lay a large sheet of foit on a bal<ing sheet and spread the rocl< satt in the centre. tender baby beetroot have a wonderful earthy taste. Cut each beetroot in hatf verticatly. toss in the beetroot and cook. such as salmon or mackerel. Wash the baby beetroot and trim the tops. When it starts to foam. z-3 thyme sprigs 5og butter 3-4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 3 Bal<e in the oven for about r5-zo minutes until the baby beets are tender. tearing the stems into smatter sprigs. Nestle the beetroot in the rocl< salt and scatter with thyme. uncover and leave to cool stightty. Pat dry. Vegetables 127 I . using a thin-bladed l<nife. peel the beetroot white they are still warm. Gas 4. then peel. Add the balsamic vinegar to deglaze and bubbte untiI reduced and syrupy. cut the beetroot into 1cm thick slices before glazing. buy the smallest fresh beetroot you can find and increase the baking time accordingly. After peeting. 4 Heat the butter in a saut6 pan. Serve warm. I serve the baby beets warm or at room temperature with lamb or oily fish. for a couple of minutes until coated in butter and gtossy. 5oog baby beetroot leaving on a little ofthe teafy stalks and roots. Scrunch the foit and bring the edges together to enctose the beetroot and seat. fl*4 ffi$:-ffi -$-$ffi rr uury beetroot are unavailable.satad of roasted baby beets with balsamic dressing Sweet. turning frequently. saut€ in butter to glaze and dress in good aged balsamic vinegar.

**': .iuicybeets.s t * e' q .ieavingsweet. i-..f o. The skin protects the beetroot concentrate and intensify the ftavour ofthe oee|awavtheskinafterbal<ing.11 i:l't.:j ..4 i .:ri:i"il:it i t ..4 i .:i .i1"" :.* I \. >2 h themoisture'to Bal<ingbeetrootintheirsl<insonabedof saltisagreatwaytodrawoutsomeof sa[ty' As you becoming it prevents fresh and vegetabre.l[simpLyremoveanylracesofrocksalt.f-..you. * a tr rlf Vegetabies 723 .

then putt off att the leaves. Cut a circle of greaseproof paper stightty larger than the diameter of the pan to make a cartouche. Turn the artichol<e on its side and. To test. Using a smatl sharp l<nife. Stir in the remaining vitamin C powder. Snap off the stall<s of the artichokes. As you prepare the artichol<e hearts. 4 Press the cartouche on top so that it fits snugly to the side of the pan. When you buy globe artichokes make sure the leaves OR ACCOMPANIMENT ore plump and glossy. garlic. Vinaigrette (page zB) or Mayonnaise (page zry). z When all the artichol<e hearts are ready. Bring to the boit. I ! 724 Vegetables . SERVES 4 AS A STARTER 2 teaspoons vitamin C powder r Dissotve l teaspoon vitamin C powder in a [arge bowl of (see below) 4 large globe artichokes ice cold water. peppercorns. using a Iarge cool<'s l<nife. Tricl<le over the olive oil and pour in enough cotd water to just cover the hearts. until you reach the purple-cream r thyme sprig inner leaves. find a pan that is large enough to tal<e them in a single layer. lfyou do not have any.it shoutd meet with [ittle resistance. drop them 4 tablespoons olive oil straight into the bowl of acidulated water. 3 Remove the artichol<e hearts from the cold water and add them to the pan with the herbs. peel around the base ofthe heart and trim away the inner leaves. flfr$ ffiP-S T$$e w. Remove from the heat and leave the artichokes in the water until readv to serve. use vitamin c powder (ascorbic acid) to acidulate water for refreshing vegetables [ike artichokes that would otherwise quickly oxidise and turn brown. halved ro white peppercorns ro coriander seeds 1 straight across just above the meaty heart to remove the spiky chol<e. The good thing about vitamin C powder is that it doesn't affect the delicate flavour of artichokes. cut r bay leaf r fat garlic clove. acidulate the water with the juice of r lemon instead. Scrape off any stray wisps of choke with a teaspoon sea salt teaspoon. coriander seeds and salt. then lower the heat and simmer for about zo minutes.fondant of globe artichokes This classic cooking method gives you lovely tender artichoke hearts to serve warm with melted butter. not shrivelled in any way. insert a sl<ewer into the centre of one artichoke heart . You can buy it in small tubs from pharmacists and some Asian food stores.

sill<y texture' 3 Taste and adjust the seasoning. teaspoon salt. adding a tittte pepper if required. I simmer the florets in milk with added herbs. or take '.. herbs and about'/. until smooth. elvety smooth purde. drain after 5-7 minutes.!$q'S 'l $F rn. z Drain the cauliflower and discard the herbs.e dish a stage further as I have here. To counter this.. but it does emit a rather unpleasant aroma when you cook it in the . (To serve the florets whole as a simple accompaniment. fl# mitk in which the cauliflower is cooked can be used to flavour a b6chamet. This purde makes a wonderful base for curry dusted pan-fried fish or scallops. Vegetables 725 &&*d*ii{. adding enough of the reserved mitl< to give a very creamy consistency. and cut into r medium cautiflower 3ooml milk r small bay teaf 'iorets.. You may need to btend the mixture for up to 5 minutes to achieve a really smooth. cooking the cauliflower until really tender then blending to a .) For a pur€e.purde of cauliflower scented with herbs -:uliflower is a versatile vegetable. Serve piping hot. stirring. Bring to the boi[. -:.suol way.. Tip pepper the florets into a btender or food processor. { -. . scraping down the sides a coupte of times. then cover and simmer gentty.se it to make a bdchamel sauce (see below). Place in a saucepan and add the mitl<. serving the florets as a simple accompaniment. discarding the leaves.i!tua. reserving the mitl<. Whiz untilvery smooth. You con strain off the milk and . Make the roux in the usuaI way. cool< r thyme sprig sea salt and freshly ground white ior tz-t5 minutes untitthe cautiftower is very tender. then incorporate the flavoured milk and cook. sERVES 6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r Trim the cauliflower.Mffi }.^ .

The liquid shoutd have reduced to a gtossy gtaze by now. I urge you to try it! Cooked in light. And because it is tender and creamy.allow one per person. cut-side down. tZ6 Vegetabtes . Lr sweet flavour. in cubes zoomI Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) r Cut the lettuces in hatf [engthways. Cover the lettuce I with a butter paper or a scrunched sheet ofwet greaseproof paper. Season and cool< over a r thyme sprig sea salt and freshty ground black medium heat for about z minutes untit tightty caramelised. Cook on a low heat for about 8 minutes. then pepper scatter in the thyme. 3 Graduatty add the butter in pieces and the stocl<. Carefutty wash and pat dry with l<itchen paper. but don't cut off the staU<s. torn into tiny sprigs. z Heat the olive oiI in a saut6 pan.texture.fondue of Little Gem lettuce lfyou have never eaten cooked lettuce. this salad vegetable is surprisingly delicious and makes an excellent accompaniment to poultry and fish. you won't need to make a special sauce or gravy to go with the meal. Braising them in tight stock with butter thereafter enhances the flavour and lends a creamy. are the best choice here . untiI the [ettuce is tender but stitt hotds its shape. SERVES 4 AS AN ACCoMPANIMENT fi 4 Littte Gem lettuces z tablespoons olive oil Z5g butter. buttery stock.g ffi tr-ffi T$ ffi rryins the lettuce halves first in hot otive oil caramelises the outer leaves and gives them a succulent. Attow to stand for 5 minutes before serving. tay the lettuce halves in the pan. * 'ij flF. When it is reatty hot. with their tightly packed leaves. Little Gem lettuce. basting once or twice.

sugar. for this dish malt vinegar lends the appropriate flavour. the amount of sugar and butter can be adiusted to taste . butter and salt. Don't be tempted to use the more refined wine vinegor.I prefer mine sweet ond buttery. coriander seeds and luniper berries in a smatl square of muslin and nestle in the centre ofthe cabbage. then put the tid on. 3 Cover the casserole. lf so. then shred each cabbage quarter as finety as possible. Add the vinegar. so ifthe tid isn't tight-fitting. I teaspoon coriander seeds ro juniper berries freshly ground black pepper giving it a good stir hatfway through cool<ing. Cook for up to 3 hours. Gas r. aromatic flavour. about 5oog z5omI malt vinegar roog demerara sugar rz5g butter. then stir back into the casserole.braised spiced red cabbage with iuniper The simplest cooking techniques are often the best. z Place the cabbage in a large cast-iron casserote. They have a natural affinity with cabbage. yet obligingly retains its texture and colour. strain them into a pan and boil down to reduce untit syrupy. 4 When the cabbage is tender. Tie the star anise. checl< to see if any iuices remain. cover the casserote with foit. Putl off any outer leaves that are damaged or witted. $Ki rutrPffi ffi ffi ffi ffi ffi $ffiS rhese dark blue berries have a sweet. goose and the Christmas turkey. red cabbage is cooked long and slow. Quarter the cabbage and cut out the core. diced r teaspoon sea salt z star anise r Preheat the oven to r4ooC. until the cabbage is tender. tzB Vegetables . Discard the bag of spices and adiust the seasoning before serving. Here. duck. and are often used to flavour rich meat and eame dishes. reminiscent of pine. However. lt can even be made ahead and reheated without loss of flavour. A good seaI is essentiat. This dish is wonderful with roast pork. using a sharp l<nife or mandolin. SERVES 6-8 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r red cabbage.

Serve as a [ight meal' Vegetables 729 . The dish can be prepared ahead and reheated without spoiling' _eleriac may not be the most attractive vegetable. to give a very creamy textured pur6e. dust with curry powder and each on half stice the prawns in hatf tengthways. adding the butter and cream. Finish as above. Set aside. Adiust the seasoning' and 6 Spread hatf the celeriac pur6e over the base of a shallow ovenproof dish grated the cover with hatf the celeriac stices. tift the celeriac rounds from 4 Return the water to the boit. then layer lime or [emon luice. minutes the acidulated water and stide into the boiting water. Here I've cooked it in two ways . about 75og juice of r lemon 6og butter. into z Stand the ceteriac on a board. 5mm thick rounds from each hatf and of cold water acidutated with hatf of the lemon iuice. on its ftat base. SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT ght moin meal.sliced and as a Serve with meat or fish. then sprinl<[e parmesan over the surface. pan of boiting Chop the rest of the ceteriac into smatt.you't[ find it easier to worl( around the circumference of the vegetabte than peeI from top to bottom. cool< to a about 15 minutes untitiust tender. but it has a r preheat the oven to rgooc. Remove with a stotted spoon and transfer blender or food Processor. even dice' Add to a 3 tablespoons double cream Parmesan cheese z tablespoons freshlY grated sea salt and freshtY ground blacl< pepper for salted water with the remaining [emon luice and bring back to the boit. (The dish can be prepared to this point in advance and chitled untiI readY to serve. Gas 5. Trim away r large celeriac. bake in the oven for about r5 minutes or untiI gotden brown on top' thoroughtyhotandbubbting. cut four large. Using a stotted spoon. whiz the diced ceteriac untit smooth. Repeat these layers. or try the varation and serve as a : irde. and cut down the middte ptace in a bowt traro halves. layer of celeriac pur6e. cut the top and base from the ceteriac' then the :eeI away the skin with a swivet peeter . then combined the two to make an original accompaniment. simmer for to-tz so they carefutly slices tender and stitt hotding a good shape. softened 4 tnobbty root ends.Leavetostandfor5minutesbeforeserving' VARIATION toss in Stir-fry z5og peeled tiger prawns untit tender.) 7 To serve. Drain the untit iust stay intact. 5 Meanwhite.celeriac 'lasagne' good flavour.

but it is so easily overcooked. An ideol accompaniment for fish or chicken. heat the remaining sunflower or olive oiI in the pan. I stir-fry the broccoli quickly. lmmediatety remove with a stotted spoon and drain on l<itchen paper. Have ready large bowl of iced water. 13O Vegetables . thinty sticed z tablespoons oyster sauce sea salt and freshly ground blacl< 3 Heat l tablespoon sunflower or olive oit in a frying pan. then add the crisp garlic slivers. about 5oog z tablespoons sunflower or olive oil z fat garlic cloves. r tablespoon sesame oil r onion. together with the sesame oit. One minute it is too hard. Drain and set aside until ready to serve. lmmediately drain the broccoli and tip into the bowl of iced water to refresh. When it is hot. Do not attow to scorch or the garlic wil[ taste bitter. thinty sliced r Cut off the main stalk. the next it is unpalatably limp and watery. add the broccoti ftorets and blanch for z minutes. Add the onion slices and saut6 over a medium heat for about 5 minutes untilsoftened. 5 Add the broccoti ftorets and saut6 until piping hot. 4 When ready to serve. a z Bring a large pan of salted water to the boit. timing from the moment the water returns to the boit. then cut the broccoti into small ftorets. Mix in the oyster sauce. here it is served Chinese style with a controst of crispy garlic slivers. add the pepper garlic slivers and saut6 until golden brown and crispy. When reody to serve.sautded broccoli with crispy garlic and oyster sauce Broccoli is a highly versatile vegetable and very popular. Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately. SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r large head of broccoli. tossing carefully to ensure the florets are not brol<en up. My solution is to blanch the florets briefly in boiling water then immediately refresh them in iced water.

readv to reheat and serve. lt's especially usefuI for fast-cooking green vegetables [ike broccoli. As soon as you drain the vegetables from the boiling water. then drain the vegetables and set aside.by preventing them overcooking. The water can be used again.'i{Fi"*4*t @* +t lifliltrt: Sii"{iht{i rf'rltisanimportanttechniquethathetpstopreservethevibrantcolourandfreshnessofvegetables. All you need is plenty of iced water to hand . immediate[y plunge them into the iced water. Leave for about 5 minutes to cool thoroughty. simply replenish the ice cubes.add 3 good handfuls of ice cubes to a targe bowL of cold water. :i::: :::::: \/aoatzhlo< 1 ?'l .

{ Cl-l EFtS Tl eLanching baby onions in boiling water for 3o seconds t0 1 minute [oosen their sl<ins and mal<e it much easier to peel them. you F find that the onions won't caramelise as successfully if they have been pre-blanchec avoid doing so unLess you are very short of il .. However. for this dish.

until the onions are iust tender.o) or Vegetable Nage (Page zr.carametised baby onions with beetroot ius rich magenta glaze' -ere baby onions. gtaze' 4 Bubbte up the pan juices untiI reduced to a syrupy Return the onions to the pan and heat through. they shoutd still retain a bite. r large fresh beetroot (about z5og) or zoomt bottled beetroot iuice roog butter z5og baby onions or small shallots' peeled few thyme sprigs z Heat the butter in a large saut6 pan. transfer the onions to a dish. Season with salt and pepper as they cook' nage' 3 Pour in the beetroot iuice and stocl( or vegetable further for a uncovered Bring to the boit. strain and pass through a fine sieve so the [iquid is ctear' You 'reed about zoomI juice. then cool< 'f teaspoon sugar rooml Chicl<en Stocl< (page zr. peel them. with the thyme and sugar. add the whole baby onions or shaltots. lf using bottted beetroot juice. Discard the thyme. rather than used merely if you have a iuicer. are cooked in a beetroot ius until they take on a as a flavouring ::en served as an accompaniment in their own right. using raw beetroot. spoon. When it starts to foam. or buy bottled beetroot iuice -gredient. Chop roughty and whiz :hrough your iuicer. wearing thin rubber g[oves to stop your fingers staining. Make your own ius '"om a healthfood shop. Using a stotted 5 minutes.r) sea satt and freshlY ground black pepper stirring occasionatly. vegetables 133 . SERVES 4-6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT I lf using fresh beetroot. turning to coat in the glaze. and cook for about 5 minutes untit tightty carametised. or shallots.

it should one-third fitt the pan. keep moving the parsnip crisps around in the pan with the bacl< of the spoon to ensure an even colour. or untiI smatl cube of day-otd bread dropped into the oil browns in 3o seconds. I think parsnips make the best deep-fried crisps. They go particularly well with venison' beef steaks and game birds. a 3 Deep-fry the parsnip wafers.r li moy prefer to -P:qs4rfiqs@4ffiFE@-'w parsnip crisps Beyond potatoes. As they fry. a handful at a time. SERVES 4 A5 AN ACCOMPANIMENT 4 medium parsnips r Peetthe parsnips. Returr the oit to the correct temperature in between frying each batch. buy maincrop rather than young parsnips. 4 Remove and drain on kitchen paper. vegetable oil for deep-frying. uncovered. then top and tail them. A light dusting of curry salt makes them irresistible. heavy saucepan. you'll also need a swivel vegetable peeler. about 5oomI about r teaspoon curry salt (see right) mandolin or. but you omit this if serving the crisps as an accompaniment rather than a snacl<.lapanese vegetable slicer. Keep warm in a low oven. add them to the oit and deep-fry for zl minutes until golden brown and crisp. z Pour the oit into a deep-fat fryer or deep. shave each parsnip lengthways into wafer-thin stices. white you cool< the remaining crisps. then immediatety sprinl<te the crisps with the curry salt white they are stitt piping hot. *il 134 Vegetabtes . To create wafer-thin broad ribbons. so the ftavour is readity absorbed. Using a stotted spoon. Heat the oit untit it registers r8ooC on a frying thermometer. 5 Serve the parsnip crisps as soon as you have cool<ed them att. Using a swivetvegetable peeler.

.l: 'r?:\. .i _ :.1 fiillt . -ii.i...1 @ iffi ..:..+r:.FF"- + :. simply mix l teaspoon medium curry pot'. r and chicl<en.". . lsprinkteitontoscatiops." -. it:.- l1r..$.prawns...1. '. I i :1 .t#iiwrw. To prepare..+rt:*.l rgi.r.'Cer lo every 2 teaspoons fine sea salt.i:!!:: a'r. :"+. . .:::. .it'sworthmakingmorethanyouneedandstoringtherestinasmalljar.d. to enhance their flavour.':. 't] - .'"i Thishassomanyuses.

Mustard Add r tablespoon coarse grain mustard and r teaspoon horseradish retish to the finished pu16e. about 5cm. or try one of my suggested flavourings below. Then pass the potatoes through a vegetable mouti or press through a pepper potato ricer. The first is the choice of potato. z Drain the potatoes. then return to the pan over the heat to dry out for a few minutes. Finally. You need one with a good flavour and floury texture. l(eep warm or chill untiI required and reheat in a pan or microwave to serve. Truffle Add a few drops of truffle oil to the finished pur6e. Then. Simmer until tender. A good pomme pur6e witt be able to tal<e a lot of butter without'sptitting'. about z5og. and boit in tightty satted water until tender. 4-6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT rl<g floury potatoes (such as Desir6e r Peel the potatoes thinty. Now. smatl celeriac. rother than mash or beat it. 136 Vegetables . gradualty worl< in the cubes of butter. Mix into the pomme pur€e with the cream and seasoning. Serve sprinkted with littte very finety chopped btack truffte if avai[abte. Remove the basiI before mixing into the pomme pur6e. boit the cream in a sma[[ pan untiI reduced by hatf. cut into small cubes sea salt and freshly ground blacl< rz minutes. a[lowing about 15 minutes from the moment the water returns to the boil. according to how rich you want the pur6e to be. FLAVOU RI NG5 Horseradish Add z-3 tablespoons horseradish relish to the finished pur6e. but checl< after 6o-9o9 butter. Celeriac PeeI and a chop/. 3 Meanwhile.I pomme puree There are three secrets to a velvety smooth pomme purde. Serve plain. Drain and whiz in a btender or food processor untilvelvety smooth. to make sure the potato cooks evenly. then cut in even-sized chunl<s. to ochieve a silky. Add to a or King Edward) r5omI double cream pan of tightty salted water and bring to the boit. such as Desirde or King Edward. SERVES To keep it light. Stir into the potatoes and season with salt and pepper to taste. add hot cream and beat in diced butter. press the potato through a mouli or potato ricer. cut it into chunks of the same size. Basit Heat 4 large basiI teaves in the cream as you reduce it to infuse. even texture.

Simmer for a couple of minutes' z Stide the potatoes into the pan and stir gently. Gas 6. Drain the par-cooked potatoes in a colander set over a bowl to catch the creamy mitk. of the 3 Layer the potatoes in a shal[ow ovenproof dish. r large garlic clove. The potatoes should be of a similar size. but I prefer to simmer the potatoes first in milk on the hob. rvrut lng ture the potatoes are just you layer them takes the guess work out of cooked before this classic baked potato dish and ensures that it is always fl$$ ffiF-S Y$ff creamy with a nice bite. then slice evenly 6oo9 slightly waxy potatoes (such as La Ratte or Maris Piper) into tcm stices. they should hold their shape and retain a bite. Sprinkte over the last of the cheese' minutes or 5 Ptace the dish in a shaltow roasting tin and bake for about ro-r5 untitthe cheese is beginning to bubbte and turn golden brown. Tricl<te a tittte of the saved mi[l< over each layer too. SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r Preheat the oven to zoooC. Bring the mitk and cream to the boit in a large saucepan and add the gartic. Attow to stand for ro minutes before serving. but not too much . sliced r thyme sprig r bay leaf 9og Gruy6re cheese. Simmer for about 7 minutes 35oml milk 35oml double cream untit the potato slices are onty just tender. Peet the potatoes thinty. grated sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 Pour a littte more of the mitk around the sides. you need to buy a waxy variety that will retain its texture as it absorbs liquid.pommes dauphinoise For this creamy potato gratin. A traditional gratin is cooked entirely in the oven. sprinkling two thirds cheese and seasoning in between the layers. then finish the dish in the oven. This method cuts the cooking time and gives you a more dependable result.iust enough to moisten. herbs and seasoning. Vegetables 737 .

rf teaspoons reduced white wine vinegar (see betow) squeeze of [emon iuice pinch of cayenne pepper 4 large mint leaves. season with salt and add the reduced vinegar. whisl< in a trickte of cold water to re-emutsify it. F-#&fl h€ fi ruffi ffiffi#. Repeat with the remaining eggs and refrigerate untiL needed.withmuffinsinsteadoftoastandaminted hollandaise. 740 Eggs . sliced. Finatty. split 4-8 slices Parma ham Minted hollondoise: :. and to avoid overcool<ing them (see betow). lf you have poached the eggs ahead. lf the sauce does happen to sptit. 4 Poach the eggs: you can do this in advance for convenience. no longer or the yotks won't be soft. Boil until reduced by half. break an egg into a cup. using a slow circular movemeni. lightLy whisk the water.Y$#&i rt is absotutetv essentiar to use very fresh eggs to ensure the whites hold together. cut into thin julienne strips sea salt fotd in the chopped mint. add /rsmall shallot.bacon. Set the ctarified butter aside to cool unti[ [ul<ewarm. then reduce the heat to a low simmer. Serve immediatelv. Tffi Pffi ffiFffif. We poach the eggs ahead and keep the hollandaise warm in a bain marie. Don't add the butter too quickty or it witt curdle. mett the butter in a pan over a gentle heat. Tc help the egg set to a neat shape. Carefully lift out and place in a bowl of chilled water to stop the cool<ing. cooI and pour into a small bottle. transfer them to a pan containing enough boiting hot buttery water to cover. sit a poached egg on top and finally coat with the warm hotlandaise. crushed coriander and r tablespoon cold water into a a heatproof bowt and fit snugly over a pan of gently simmering water. this is still one of our popular breakfast dishes at Claridges. Acenturyon. Leave to stand off the heat for t5-zo seconds. 6 Butter the muffins and ptace on warmed ptates. then slowly tricl<le in the runny butter as you continue to whisl<. then 4 large free-range eggs l<nob of butter carefully pour off the gotden oil into a jug and discard the mitl<y sotids. crushed z Put the egg yotks. When all the buiter is incorporated. b&$firuffi %g$ruffi#effi lt's usefulto reep a small bottte of this in the fridge. then strain through a sieve. pour z5omlwhite wine ffiffiffiffiffiffiffi vinegar into a pan. lemon juice and cayenne. Set the bowl bacl< over the pan of hot water (but off the heat) to keep warm. To prepare. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well. SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL r To mal<e the hollandaise. 5 To assemble. Lemuel Benedict. Arrange r or 2 stices of Parma ham on each muffin. toast the split muffins tightty on both sides. a blade of mace and '/a teaspoon black peppercorns. Using it easier to incorporate the butter). using a slotted spoon.toastandHollandaise-tocureahangover. z muffins.eggs benedict with minted hollandaise ln 894 a Wall Street broker. because it cannot be reheated once it has cooled and solidified.5og unsalted butter z free-range egg yotks 5 coriander seeds. hand-hetd stick blender or electric whisl<. Slide the egg into the pan and poach for t/zminutes. stir occasionatly to stop a sl<in forming. beat until very tight and frothy (this mal<es 3 Remove the bowl from the heat and continue whisl<ing for a coupte more minutes. Hatf-fitl a sha[[ow saucepan with water. Meanwhile. ordered the chef at New York's Waldorf Hotel to put together all his favourite foods-eggs. add a dash of vinegar and bring to a steady simmer.

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so the egg white sets without kitchen. about 4 minutes for duck eggs.it witt set in position after about 3o seconds. about z5g sea salt and freshlY coarse ground pat dry. but the frying must be gentle' with a bright yellow. 742 Eggs t . using a swivel peeter. crisping. you need two blini pans' about tzcm in almost as a confit technique. Bring a pan of water to the boit and btanch the spears for r minute' Drain and 4og butter. or extra large hen's eggs about 3og Parmesan cheese. Season lightly and cook untiI the whites are just set firm and the yolks are still soft and runny' Loosen the edge with a small palette knife and remove. Duck eggs witl tal<e 8-ro minutes. arrange the asparagus I { I very scatter over the Parmesan shavings and rocket leaves. when you can feel a perfection (see ducl< egg into each pan and fry gentty until cool<ed to crack a black pepper betow).fried duck eggs with griddted asparagus Free-range about z5% larger than a hen's egE becoming much more widety available. heat a z-3 minutes' heat rising. rich. drizz[e with olive oiI and l<nob z Pour r tabtespoon otive oit into each of two rzcm btini pans. then drain and turn to coat. add a small gentle heat rising. to drizzle and frY tightty satted peet the lower stems of the asparagus. This is a great dish to cook when homegrown diameter. otherwise use the smallest frying pan you have in the spring' SERVES z As A LIGHT MEAL asparagus starts to appear in shops and markets. of butter and place over a medium heat. ldeally. Lower the heat and cook until the egg white starts to firm. finelY pared into shavings handfut of rocl<et leaves. btanched asparagus in a sha[[ow dish. creamy yolk that stands proud of the white. Stip the butter ftakes down the side of the pan. spoon it over the egg whites to hetp them cook. As the butter begins to foam. cut into thin flakes z free-range ducl< eggs. around late duck eggs are 20Og green asparagus spears r good olive oi[. 3 minutes for extra large hen's eggs. dressing these coarsely grind tightty with otive oiI if you tike' Carefutty place a fried egg on top' over some pepper and serve straightaway' t { ffiffiffiffiffi#T'flffififfiffi ffiffiffiffi Crack the egg into the hot oiled pan over a medium heat. They're They are superb fried. Ptace th: refresh in a bowl of ice-cotd water for 5 minutes. which is terrific. then add the asparagus spears and cool< for about turning occasionatty. hen's eggs 5-6 minutes' griddte pan over a high heat untityou can feel a good 3 In the meantime. Tilt the pan to centre the yotk . untiI tender and tightty charred' on two warmed large plates and season' 4 To serve.

I44 Esss . ''' t@ ...::-.:::. ry I ! t-' ::l':r..

lmmediatety remove from the heat. Esss 145 . Return to the oven for minutes to crisp the pastry. or ready-made puff r to a round and use to line four rocm tartlet tins with removable bases. and carefully separate the tartlet tins. Line the :sed top tarttet with foiL and bal<ing beans. I line crisp pastry tartlets with smoked salmon. shattow pan set over a medium heat to begin with. 'aIow pan over a low heat. . on a . Gas 6. boitto reduce by hatf.the meantime. - . This wiltslow the cuisson down and achieve the correct creamy exture.saring them in the classic way. l<eep warm. Trim the pastry To . mal<e the scrambled eggs. :.. Place on warmed serving plates and fitt with -e warm scrambled eggs. serve the '-topped tartlets with a swirl of reduced Lobster bisque.tartlets of scrambted eggs with smoked satmon sled eggs. Leave the stacl< of tart cases to . Remove pepper .Osietra is my preferred To choice.I'eheat the oven to zoooC. diced 6 large or 8 medium free-range eggs 4 tablespoons double cream 4 tablespoons miil< the bases with a forl<.it extends high above the rims. _- foiI and bal<ing beans. using a sharp l<nife. Cut the pastry into four. and the way they are cooked. Place the tartlet cases. optionat) 4 teaspoons caviar . fill them with ' scrambled eggs and top with a little caviar . simpty :o with a few smoked satmon strips and snipped chives. is a matter of personal taste. Alternatively. pour in the cream and mill<. r5og sliced smoked salmon sea salt and freshly ground blacl< . Then carefully stacl< the pastry-tined tins. then rotI out each portion ' 35og Puff Pastry (page r9o). so it protrudes about rcm above the rim. mal<e the tartlet cases.3es leveI with the rim of the tins. I Use a wide. 3 the pastry high up the sides. ' .'./hen ready to serve. if serving [obster bisque. When the eggs begin to -ambte. not before. I like them creamy and fine-textured. crack in the eggs. For an elegant light meal.. season or extra strips of smol<ed satmon and snipped chives --d stir gentty with a forl< untitcreamy. . you can top with smoked salmon strips and snipped chives. add the eggs and whisl< _. treat the palate to an unforgettable experience. Add the butter and as soon as it starts to meLt. . For a less extravagant finish. beat vigorously untilthe eggs form soft curds. Serve immediately. one on top l<eeps -e other .'y bal<ing sheet and bal<e for about 15 minutes untiI golden brown. Using a baLtoon whisl<.: ln the fridge for r5 minutes. serve: zoomI Lobster Bisque (page rz. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL .'. As it begins to melt. Line the sides with the smol<ed satmon.orously with a balloon whisl< as they start to heat. Top with a spoonfuI of caviar and surround each :rttet with adrizzle of reduced lobster bisque if you Iil<e. and continue to stir gently until soft and creamy. r 4og butter.this helps the pastry thin and crisp as it cool<s. I ?emove the tarttet cases from the tins. then whisl< in the cream and mill<.st. Serve without delav. Put the butter into a wide. -. stitl in a stacl<. achieved . Season at this stage.

$ t :r. one at a time. Like all soufflds. cover and attow the mixture to cool. gently fotd in the rest. Bake for ro-rz minutes untilwell risen and the surface is set and golden brown. Graduatty whisk in the hot milk. Stir in the z egg yoil<s. !^9X. they need to be served the moment they are ready. 9cm in diameter. 146 Esgs . to brush to serve. Discard the bay teaf and onion. then remove from the heat and set aside to infuse for 3o minutes. beat in the Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Hotding each ramel<in with a cloth.Swiss soufft6s These impressive. preheat the oven to zoooC. Divide between the ramekins and level the tops. 6 Now work fast! As soon as the souff[6s are ready. Sprinl<te the grated cheese over the top and bal<e in the oven for ro minutes. pepper and nutmeg. delicate b€chamel soufflds are cooked in individual ramekins. Simmer for z minutes. Beat a third ofthe egg whites into the sauce to tighten it.ltisimportantto whisk the egg whites to the correct softly peaking consistency. 5 In the meantime. lf overbeaten the whites wil[ become grainy and you won't be able to foLd them into the mixture smoothly. pour the cream into a large shallow ovenproof gratin dish anc pepper sprinkle with satt. 3 When ready melted butter.. with a generous sprinkling of GruyEre. then sprinkte in the crumbs and tap a[[ round to coat with an even layer. aooml double cream freshty grated nutmeg roog GruyEre or EmmenthaI cheese. grated sea salt and freshly ground blacl< 4 In a clean grease-free bowl. Serve immediatelv. Brush the insides evenly with melted butter. separated. then using a targe meta[ spoon. over a gentte heat for r-z minutes. then turned out to finish cooking in a gratin dish of cream. Remove from the heat. Reheat the mitl<. The souffL6 mixture can be prepared to the end of step z wetl in advance (up to z4 hours) and kept in the fridge untiI ready to finish and serve. stirring once or twice. to make a smooth sauce. Cook.: t. Stand the ramel<ins on a bal<ing sheet. freshly grated z large free-range eggs. quicl<ly run a thin table knife round the side of each one. stirring. whisk the 3 egg whites with a good pinch of salt until they form soft firm peaks. tipplng out any excess. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL 3oomlmilk r bay leaf % small onion r Put the miU< into a pan with the bay leaf and onion and bring to a simmer. so have warmed serving plates - and your guests - ready and waiting.': d" 'f'tss L ffi nn. upend the souffl6s into the cream. 3og butter 3og plain flour z59 Parmesan cheese. Gas 6 and prepare four z-3 tablespoons naturaI colour dried breadcrumbs ramekins. plus r extra egg white z Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and stir in the ftour.

perfect cheese omelette tn theory it's easy to make an omelette. yours is not as robust. shaking the pan frequently with one hand. about r5g 5og grated Gruy6re or mature Cheddar cheese sea salt and freshly ground black z Pour in the beaten eggs and swir[ them round and round in the pan with a fork. choice of pan is important. Add the olive oiI to the pan and. flip the third of the omelette furthest from you into the centre. and soft and creomy in the centre. with rounded sides that make it easier to flip the ometette. Then. The trick is to get the eggs to an even tight. For real perfection. We use a heavy duty nonstick pan that can take metal forks. giving a less satisfactory result. use your tea towel to shape the omelette ro[[ neatly. but if C# ffi$]-S #iffii#qffiT Don't season the esgs before you cook them. hotd the pan just off the heat. 5 At this point. r tablespoon olive oil large knob of butter. creamy texture at this stage. The perfect omelette is pale golden on the outside without :he slightest tinge of brown. but the timing is critical. slip in the butter and swir[ it in the pan as it foams and melts. an omelette *ill be hard and leathery. Esss 147 . titt away from you and bang the side opposite the handle on the surface a few times. The secret lies in the technique of constantly stirring and shaking the pan during cooking. Beat the eggs in a 3 medium free-range eggs bowl untiI evenly blended. Serve at once. because salt breaks down the albumen in the eggwhite and thins the mixture. If overcooked. when you can feel a good heat rising. The heat of the creamy centre is sufficient to melt the cheese. untiI the base ofthe ometette is just set.French term bauvese. and quite unpalatable. so it folds over into a neat roll. 4 Wrap your free hand in a ctean tea towe[. SERVES r AS A LIGHT MEAL r Place a 2o-27cm omelette pan over a medium-high heat. hotding the pan handle again. then folding and tipping the omelette straight on to a warmed serving plate so it folds neatly into three. Loosen the edges with a palette l<nife. season with salt and pepper and scatter over the cheese. 3 When pepper the mixture is three-quarters set. Now hold the pan over a warmed plate and slide the omelette out. You need a frying pan about zrcm in diameter. but don't add satt or pepper at this stage. stop stirring with the fork and leave undisturbed for 3o seconds or so. then use a wooden or heatproof plastic fork for stirring. This has the effect of shal<ing the omelette loose from the pan so that it begins to slide on to the edge furthest away from you. which the. And that's it. Th$ ffi ffi$ffi$$T"$"ffiffi$-ffi rr'.

Omelette Arnold Bennet Top the half-set ometette wiih ftaked. when you can feel a good heat rising. Put the spinach into a saucepan with r tablespoon otive oit and place over a low heat for about 3o seconds untit tightty wilted. add the remaining tabtespoon olive oil to the pan and swir[ round the base. Remove from the heat and loosen the edges with a l<nife. otherwise a wooden or heatproof ptastic one) and stir the egg pepper mixture round in the pan. Gratin6 under the d t gril[ as above. tr+v t. Serve straight from the pan with mixed leaf salad SERVES 2 AS A LIGHT MEAL z good handfuts of babY sPinach leaves.open omelette of goat's cheese and spinach As a modification of the on top of a perfect omelette technique. Stide the ometette out of the pan and serve. pan witt take it. q and crusty bread' you could substitute a herb-coated chEvre ifyou prefer. Finish as above. chunks of chEvre and boby spinach leaves are scottered soft' I use a cendrd (ash-coated) goat's cheese' but set omelette. about 5og z tablespoons olive oil 4 large free-range eggs r preheat the gritt to medium. Season tightty (you won't need much satt because of the cheese). stop stirring with the fork. then remove from the heat and drain on l(itchen paper. cut into wedges' VARIATIONS Try one of the fotlowing alternative toppings: caramelised onion and anchovy cool< z-3 sticed red onions slowly in olive oil with a tight sprinl<ting of sugar untit softened and carametised. scatter over the hatf-set ometette with torn basi[. pour in the eggs. Finish as above. Sprinkte with the Parmesan' Now place the omelette pan under the gritt until the top is tightty set and the 4 patette cheese is gotden. then drop in the diced butter and allow to melt and foam. which is then flashed under the gritl to tightly colour the chdvre. When the mixture is two'thirds set. coot stightty' thescatter over the hatf-set ometette and top with 4-6 snipped anchovy fillets. zog butter. anc Confit of cherry tomatoes Slow roast cherry tomatoes in otive oit with thyme seasoning untiI tender. Foo< -oo' . Beatthe eggs in a bowt untiteventy btended. with rind z tablespoons freshlY grated Parmesan cheese sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< z place a27-23cm ometette pan overa medium-high heat. creamy Mornay cheese sauce and grated cheese. Tease the tightty cool<ed leaves apart to seParate. but don't add satt or pepper. Take a forl< (ideatty metal if your 3 when the butter is foaming. soft ch6vre (PreferabtY cendr6). poached smokec haddocl<.Q. diced roog good. Pinch the chEvre into pieces and scatterthese and the spinach leaves over the surface of the ometette.

* i#:l...l..**:.i ff :x?l#i}r T:ffi :lfiffi ...r#:lhrrl:lff rn[T::*I[lil:.:. :. 15 o Eggs .

Set this over a pan of gently simmering water and whisl<. about 3o% cocoa solids . then put in the freezer.chocolate and tiramisu parfait 'ese decadent parfaits comprise three layers: a chocolate hazelnut base. Remove and stir well untit smooth :nd creamy. and a (pages t5B-Q.lm into a heatproof bowl. then spoon into the moutds. The rl rl To tabtespoons Madeira or medium tabtespoons Marsala sabayon is readywhen the mixture [eaves a trail as the beaters are tifted. As sabayon never :ezes solid. 4 Now mal<e the sabayon. put the chocotate. Tap on a work surface to level the mixture. use metal cutters if possible (available from good cookshops). icing sugar. 6 sma[[ scoops White Chocolate lce Cream (page ry9) or Classic Vani[[a lce Cream (page r58) darl< chocolate shavings 'j . z Meanwhite. 3 Give the chocotate mixture a stir. Set over a pan of gentty simmering water untiI the Cho co lote h aze ln ut base : roog good quatity miil< chocolate (such as Valrhona's Jivara). set six 6cm metal ring cutters on a tray tined with cting fitm. :nd atlowing plenty to overhang the sides. for at least ro minutes untilyou :rave a pate gotden lOOg Casrer sugar tight. Leave to cool to room temperature. the consistency of thicl< double cream. To r For the chocolate tayer. using a swivel vegetable peeler or sharp knife. serve: 6 Unmould the parfaits and top with ice cream and chocolate shavings to serve. Or tine 3og roasted chopped hazelnuts r tablespoon icing sugar roomI double cream r tablespoon rum c ramel<ins with cting film. The chocolate must be at room temperature. Tal<e the moulds or ramel<ins from the freezer and spoon the sabayon on top ofthe chocolate layer. a sabayon flavoured with fortified wines. the parfaits must be served prompfly SERVES 6 'and.arge heatproof bowt. stable foam. Return to the freezer and freeze until firm. pressing welI into the sides and base for a snug fit. Eggs 757 . Saboyon: 5 free-range egg yoll<s :sing an electric hand whisl< or battoon whisl<. or buy a good quaLity luxury :oop of vanilla or white chocolate ice cream on top.i *F€#fl#L&YS SE*&hsgru#S The easiest wav to shape thin chocolate curls is to shave them directty from a block of chocolate. Use a homemade ice cream mould the pa(aits. cream and . untiI cool. not taken straight from the fridge. Put the egg yoll<s.hocolate has melted. or ramekins.. 5 Remove from dry sherry the heat and continue whisl<ing for another 5 minutes or so. hazetnuts. Madeira and Marsala into a . sugar. stirring occasionatty.

z Place the egg whites in a ctean. then peel off tablespoon chopped pistachio nuts (unsalted) the paper. Eton Mess has evolved into a scrumptious pudding that couldn't be easier to prepare. SERVES 6-8 Meringue: z large free-range egg whites pinch of fine sea salt or squeeze of lemon juice 1 Preheat the oven Gas to its lowest setting. 4ooml double cream z5og ripe strawberries. but remains slightly gooeyinside. Very fresh eggs are noL Lhe secret to successful meringue. but you're not sure how many. Meringues are simply crushed.it bakes to a crispness on the surface. Line a bal<ing sheet with bal<ing parchment.Eton mess OriginalLy a tuck shop treat at that well known boarding school. Leave to infuse for at [east 48 hours before using. Sprinl<te with chopped pistachio nuts and serve. lf your oven is very [ow.t it dishes. the meringues may be teft inside to dry out for up to 6 hours. or you are using a (optionat) :. 5 Whip the cream just untiI it forms soft floppy peal<s. untityou have a 3 Graduatty whisl< in the sugar. Roughty cut up the strawberries and toss with the l<irsch or sherry if using. Bal<e for at [east z hours untit tightly crusty on top.. 6 When ready to serve fold the crushed meringues and strawberries into the cream and spoon into 6 or 8 small i i" :. The best texture is achieved with eggs that are at least r week old.i]. lr'. weigh them and use an equaI quantity of sugar. Do nor over-beat or the mixture will become dry and grainl. i-i i:. then fotded into whipped cream with chopped strawberries. /q. Keep the pods in the jar and replenish the sugar as necessary. about 2cm thicl(. t . a tablespoonful at a time. To assemble: firm glossy meringue that holds its shape. or caster sugar untilthe egg whites lust hotd firm peal<s. warming oven. . Add the satt or lemon luice and whisl< with a hand-hetd electric whisl< roog vanitla sugar (see below).. huIted z tablespoons l<irsch or sherry 4 Spread this on the prepared bal<ing sheet in an even layer. Breal< the meringue into z-3cm pieces. maximum roooC. grease-free bowt. You will also get a better result ifthe egg whites are at room temperature..:li . 752 Eggs I. Leave to cooI completely. rather than tal(en straight from the fridge. Easy French meringue is used here . lfyou have separated egg whites in the fridge destined for meringue. your own fragrant vaniLta sugar by burying r or z vanilla pods in a jar of caster sugar. n nur. r. Carefutty tift the meringue (by the paper) on to a wire racl<.

Cover the surface with damp greaseproof paper to prevent a skin forming and allow to coo[. grease-free bow[. To serve. cover with cting fitm and chitt. uncovered. stirring once or twice. stirring with a wooden spoon. SERVES 4 r First mal<e the custard. When the [iquid is crystal ctear. then dry. whisk the egg whites with a squeeze of lemon luice in loog caster sugar 3oomlwhole milk Caramel: 6og caster sugar 1 a clean. raise the heat and bubble until the syrup turns a rich darl< brown caramel (but don't stir. Meanwhile. or individuat serving bowls. the billowy meringues are floated on the coffee custard and drizzled with caramel. Leave to stand for ro minutes before serving. mix teaspoon liquid glucose the caster sugar. lmmediately remove from the heat and carefulty drizzte the carameI over the meringues. Put the egg yoll<s and brown sugar into a heatproof 5 free-range egg yolks 9og soft light brown sugar z5omI double cream bowl and whisl< until thick and creamy. tip the quenette out sidewavs into the simmering milk to poach. whisking att the time. Once it is atl incorporated. Do not cover with a pan lid or the meringues wi[[ cottapse' When cooked. 5 For the caramet. Slowly pour the creamy coffee milk on to the egg mixture. lmmediately. lift out the meringues with the spoon and float on the coffee custard. Esss 153 . Allow to cool. using a hand-hetd etectric whisl< or balloon whisl<. or stop watching). 3 To make z5oml whole miU< 5oml espresso coffee or strong instant coffee Meringue: z eggwhites squeeze of lemon juice the meringues. Whisl< in the sugar. Spoon 3 or 4 neat queneltes of meringue into the simmering milk and poach. a spoonful at a time. for about z minutes. carefully turn each meringue over and poach for another z minutes.ite flottante favourite French dessert that cleverly illustrates the versatility of eggs. 4 Pour the mill< into a large shatlow pan and bring to a simmer. Using a stotted spoon. Repeat to cool< the remaining meringue. The yolks go to make on espresso coffee cr\me anglaise. z Strain through a fine chinois or sieve back into the pan and cool< over a low heat. untiI the custard begins to thicl<en and thinty coat the bacl< ofthe spoon. Do not allow to boit as the custard wit[ curdte. Ptace the pan over a low heat to dissolve the sugar stowly. ffi #ffi $ F$#LF ffi {k# ffi ru tr LilSS Dip a dessertspoon into a bowl of hot water to warm it slightLy. which are gently poached rather than This is my version of a boked. glucose and z tablespoons cold water in a heavy-based pan and leave to stand for ro minutes. about z-3 minutes. continue to whisl< for z minutes [onger. bring the cream and milk atmost to the boit in a heavy-based pan and stir in the coffee. while the whites are whisked up to make meringues. untit they form soft peal<s. Then pour into a [arge sha[tow bowt. Dip the spoon sideways into the meringue and curl to take up an oval. so the carameI sets to a crunchy topping.

using a hand'held electric whisl<. mal<ing sure the surface is tevet. uncovered. Quicl<[y cover the top and sides with meringue. With the beaters stitt whirting. When the tiquid is clear. until they form soft peal<s. z Whisl< the eggs and sugar in a large heatproof bowl over a pan of gentty simmering water. glucose and 3 tabtespoons water into a rl teaspoons liquid gtucose medium heavy-based saucepan and leave to stand for:. then turn out on to a wire rack and peel offthe paper. so the ice cream doesn't melt.take care to avoid over-scorching. to check the temperature of the sugar syrup for the meringue. whisl< the egg whites with a squeeze of lemon iuice in a clean. This onty tal<es seconds . cut out rz discs of the baked sponge' Place six on a tray. thick and creamy. Set to one side. Repeat to finish the rest ofthe atasl<as. page r58) Italian meringue: 18og caster sugar about ro minutes. increase the heat and boit untit the syrup registers tzooC on a sugar thermometer. 3 large free-range egg whites squeeze of lemon juice 6 Using a 6-7cm cutter. Gas 5. using a hand-held electric whisk or ba[[oon whisl<. MAKES 6-8 Genoise sponge bose: 5og butter 4 medium free-range eggs r To make the sponge. tightty crushed 6 scoops good quatity ice cream the heat and whisk for a further 3-5 minutes to coot. Serve at once. 8 To serve. place each ataska on a serving plate and wave a cook's blow'torch tightly and quickty over each meringue to colour. Carefulty pour on to the prepared tray and gently spread to a 1cm thicl<ness. Ptace a neat scoop of ice cream (the same diameter as the discs) on the raspberries. tined with cting fitm and top with a layer of crushed raspberries' 7 Now finish one at a time. glossy meringue.) (preferably homemade. 3 Using a large metal spoon. gently fotd in the flour. then dissotve over a medium heat. grease-free bow[. untiI the mixture is pate. I envelop individual alaskas in ltalian meringue and wave a blow-torch over the surface to finish. melt the butter.o minutes. Now. Remove the bow[ from rz5g caster sugar rz5g ptain flour. sifted Filling: zoog raspberries. Preheat the oven to r9ooC. then top with a ptain sponge disc. then cool to room temperature. drizzle the runny butter down the side of the bowl and fotd this in very gently. then ptace. lt shoutd leave a traitas you lift the beaters. A sugar thermometer is useful here. Leave on the tray for ro minutes. Bal<e for 4 To mal<e the meringue. 154 Esss .my baked alaskas lnstead of baking in a very hot oven which can be unpredictable. swirting it attractively. stirring once or twice. (lt doesn't matter if the mixture doesn't extend to the sides of the tray. 5 In the meantime. in the freezer untiI ready to serve. The effect is stunning and they taste divine. put the sugar. until golden and iust firm to the touch. Line a shallow bal<ing tray with bal<ing parchment. slowly pour the hot syrup down the side of the bowt and continue beating on fu[[ speed for ro minutes to a firm.

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i:. maximum roooC. pudding 4 When ready to serve. stirring. Cover a [arge bal<ing sheet with a non-sticl( siticone liner.calvados rice br0[6es As a twist on classic crdme brAQes. over a low heat for a couple of minutes or so untiI it starts to thicl<en. z5omtwhole milk z5omI double cream 9og caster sugar 6 free-range egg yotl<s z tablespoons Calvados 6 tablespoons demerara sugar cream and caster sugar. then turn the heat down and simmer for about z5 minutes. making sure they are not touching. Dip the appte slices.: prefreat the oven to its lowest setting.l-. then cut into thin. scatter demerara sugar over the surface and caramelise the topping. Chitt untit required. then lay on the silicone mat. 5 Serve the puddings as soon as they are atl carametised' Set the ramekins on smatt ptates. or peach or mango stices 3 lmmediatety remove from the heat and stir in the Calvados. Do not overheat or it wit[ curdle. Core. then divide the rice pudding between six ramekins and allow to cool. then return to the pan and cool<. t spoon a rich. into Stock Syrup (page 164). 756 Esss . SERVES 6 9og pudding rice r To mal<e the pudding. Remove to a wire rack to cooI and crisp. even slices. one at a time. but do not peeI a Granny Smith apple. sprinl<[e demerara sugar thicl<ty on top of each and wave a blow-torch over the surface to mett and caramelise the sugar' Don't do this in advance or the sugar will dissotve into a syrup rather than caramelise. put the rice into a large non-sticl< saucepan with the mitk. Place in the oven until dry and crisp. z Meanwhile. Bring stowly to the boit. creamy rice pudding into ramekins. if you haven't time to make the tuiles. Serve with apple tuiles (see below' or sliced fresh fruit. To serve: Appte Tuiles (see below). Stowty mix in the rice pudding. such as peaches or mango. about z hours. Gas /+. beat the egg yotks in a bowl untit thick and creamy. with appte tuiles (see below) or sliced peach or mango on the side r. The simple combination of flavours works brilliantly. stirring occasionally until the rice is soft and plum: and the mitl< is mostty absorbed..

Stir constantly with a wooden spoon untiI the custard thicl<ens stightty . And although it cannot be frozen as it is. including trifles ond classic bavarois. add the leaves from 6 mint sprigs to the hot creamy milk and set aside to infuse for 3o minutes.crEme anglaise A good crEme anglaise . FL-qqr#ffi ffi ffi ffi tffi ffi &4ffi eruffi fr-&$Sffi vou. 4 Strain the mixture through a sieve bacl< into the pan. z5oml double cream a z Using a ba[[oon whisl<. then ptace over a low heat.un infuse the creamy milk with other flavourings. As the tiquid starts to creep up the sides ofthe pan. lfyou draw a finger along the bacl< ofthe spoon.enough to thinly coat the back ofthe spoon. Cover and allow to coo[. then slowly bring to the boit. it should leave an impression. scoop out the tiny seeds 3 Add the empty vanilla pods to the mill< and cream. Chitt untit required (or churn into ice cream). from sophisticated fruit tarts through to homely puddings and pies.^.*. beat the rest of the sugar and egg yoll<s together in with the tip of a l<nife and add them to the yotk and sugar mix. Crdme anglaise will keep for z3 days in the fridge as long as you cover the surface to stop a skin forming. tt complements so many desserts. for example. stirring occasionally to prevent a sl<in forming.tastes superb. You may be surprised by the suggestion of UHT milk. Esgs 157 .gffi4. omitting the vanilla pods. Stii the vanilla pods [engthways. 5og caster sugar 5 large free-range eggyotks z vanilla pods large heatproof bowt.**m . A sugar thermometer can be used to check when the custard is cool<ed sufficientty - the temperature should be 8z-84oC. 5 lmmediatety remove the pan from the heat and strain the custard back into the bowl through a fine sieve.*li$uu**lU. gradualty pour on to the sugary yolks. beating well. then remove the leaves and return the liquid to the boil before adding to the yolk and sugar mix. preferably UHT sugar (this wilt hetp to stop the mixture boiting over).. and it can be served either worm or chilled.*... MAKES ABOUT 6ooml r Putthe miU<and cream into a heavy-based saucepan with rtabtespoon ofthe z5omI whole miU<.or homemade custard souce . but it does make the custard more stable. you can churn it in an ice cream machine to make wonderful ice cream. and of course it is an integral part of some recipes. For a minted crdme angLaise.

classic vanitta rce cream
We

freezers

only ever serve homemade ice cream in our restaurants. There is always a good variety of flavoured ice creams in the to complement our desserts, and most of them are based on crEme anglaise. Pale yellow and speckled with tiny

black vanilla seeds, real vanilla ice cream is far superior to bought ice cream. The secret to success is a smooth texture, and you to invest in using an ice cream machine is the best way to achieve this. tf you haven't got one already, then I recommend
a

good quality domestic ice cream machine with o built-in freezer motor. MAKES ABOUT r.z LITRES

5oomI whole mill<, preferablY UHT

r

Mal<e

the crdme angtaise (fottowing the method on page rl7). Coot quickly over

5ooml double cream loog caster sugar

a bowt of iced water and chill thoroughty.

z Pour the chitled crdme angtaise into an ice cream machine and churn until thick
enough to scoop. Either serve straightaway or transfer to a freezerproof plastic tub, seat and put in the freezer. (lfyou do not have an ice cream machine, freeze

rz large free-range eggyotks
4

vanilla pods

the chitted crdme angtaise in a shaltow container, beating thoroughty at least
three times during freezing.)
3 To enjoy

the ice cream at its best, eat within a weel<, altowing it to soften at

room temperature for about ro minutes before scooping. For convenience' you may wish to scoop the soft ice cream into batts and open freeze these on a non-

stick tray, ready to serve (or pacl< into a plastic tub if not serving at once). As ice cream readily absorbs the flavours of food stored atongside it, containers must
be well seated.

VARIATIONS attractive decorations are simply made from 'spent' pods. As you scrape the vanilla seeds out (for your
crdme anglaise, perhaps) make sure you keep one end of the pod intact. Then, using the tip of a very sharP, thin bladed knife, slit each pod lengthways as many times as you can, keeping the end intact. Place on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and spread out the strands. Repeat to make as many vanilla fans
as you need, then cover with another sheet of greaseproof paper and place

By adding different flavours to the crEme anglaise before churning it, you can

create a variety of ftavoured ice creams. These are some of my favourites' Orange flower water Omit the vanilla. Add z-3 tabtespoons orange flower water

to the crdme anglaise as it cools. cinnamon Substitute the vanilta pods with z cinnamon sticl<s and 1 teaspoon
ground cinnamon.

Mint Omit the vanitta. Infuse the hot mitl< with a large sprig of mint and set aside untit cotd. Remove the mint, return the mitk to the boiI and continue as above.
Caramel Before you start making the crdme anglaise, gently heat roog sugar with r tablespoon cold water and 4og butter in a heavy-based pan, stirring until dissotved. Increase the heat and cook until the tiquid turns gotden brown'

another baking tray on top. Bake at
r8ooC, Gas

4for zo-25 minutes. When

lmmediatety remove from the heat and whisl< in the mill< and cream for the
custard. Then proceed with the recipe for crdme anglaise'
Rum and raisin Warm 6-8 tablespoonfuts raisins in rooml each darl< rum and

the kitchen fitls with the aroma of vanilla you know they are readY.
Remove and coot. Use to decorate ice

creams and other desserts.

Stock Syrup (page 16+), then remove from the heat and macerate for z4 hours. Drain and add to the crdme angtaise before churning.

158

Esgs

white chocolate ice cream
Not oll ice creams have a crEme anglaise bqse. This one is

simply a mixture of melted white chocolate, cream qnd milk,

combined with an inert sugar, liquid glucose, to keep it smooth. We have very fost freezing machines in our kitchens, which keep the mixture churning until it is smooth and firm enough to scoop into.balls. At home, I suggest that ofter churning the mixture in your domestic ice cream mochine, you tronsfer it to a suitable container and leave it in the freezer for an hour or

two before scooping into balls. Good quality white chocolate is essentiaL MAKES ABOUT goomt

r

Breal< up

the chocolate into a large heatproof bowl and add the remaining

16og white chocolate

ingredients. Place the bowl over a pan of gently simmering water and heat
stowty, stirring frequentty, until the chocolate melts smoothly into the tiquid. Don't a[[ow the mixture to become too hot otherwise the chocolate might 'seize'. It should be just warm enough for the chocolate to melt and blend smoothty.

z5oml double cream

5oomlwhole milk
5og icing sugar

r4og pot liquid glucose

z Remove the bowl from the pan and pour the mixture into a cotd bow[. Leave untit quite cotd, then pour into an ice cream machine and churn untit it is as thick
as possible. Scoop into a freezerproof container and freeze for

z3

hours or until

it is firm enough to scoop into balls. 3 For convenience, you can scoop the ice cream into sma[[ batls and open freeze these on a tray lined with a sheet of baking parchment. Freeze untiI solid, then
ptace in a freezerproof container and l<eep frozen untiI ready to serve.

flF{ ffiffi-S Yfrffi

Liquio grucose is available from pharmacists and the baking

section of larger supermarkets.

Esss 159

kn i cl<e rbocl<er glo ri es
This is my chic version of the favourite British sundoe that takes its name from the striped pantaloons worn by Victorian

the seaside. Here tall glasses are filled with delicate layers of fresh orange ielly, panna cotta, crushed amaretti and sliced peaches, then topped with ice cream and a flamboyant fruit finish to serve. SERVES 4-6
ladies at Oronge Jelly:

r

For the ietty, put the orange

juice into a pan with the icing sugar to taste and boil

Tooml fresh orange juice

z-3 tablespoons icing sugar
3 sheets leaf getatine (or z teaspoons

to reduce to about 5oom[. Meanwhite, soal< the getatine leaves in cold water until softened. (Or soal< powdered gelatine in z tabtespoons cold water untilspongy.) z Remove the gelatine leaves from the cotd water and squeeze out excess water, then stide them into the hot orange tiquid (or add the softened gelatine) and stir briskty untitdissotved. Cool to room temperature. Pour z tablespoons into each glass and chitt untit set. Pour the rest into a shallow bowl and chitt untit set.
(Or soak 3 For the panna cotta, soal< the gelatine leaves in cold water untitftoppy' powdered gelatine in z tablespoons cold water until spongy.)

powdered gelatine)

Ponna cotta: 4 sheets leaf gelatine (or 3 teaspoons powdered getatine)

6oomldouble cream
r5omI mill<
15og caster sugar

4 Stowty bring the cream and mitl< to the boiI in a large saucepan, stirring. Lower the heat and bubbte gently for about 5 minutes to reduce by about a third'
Remove the getatine leaves from the cold water and squeeze out excess water.
Tal<e

grated zest of r orange
z tablespoons white rum (optional)

the pan offthe heat, stir in the sugar and orange zest, then stide in the

getatine (or add the softened gelatine), stirring untiI dissolved. coot stightty, then
mix in the rum, if using. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to coot.

To

serve:

75-roog strawberries, finely chopped 6-8 amaretti biscuits, crushed z ripe peaches, thinly sliced

jetty in each glass and chitl 5 Pour z tabtespoons of panna cotta on top of the set to set. Pour the rest into a shattow bowl and chitt untiI set.
6 Turn the set letty out of the shatlow bowl on to a sheet of bal<ing parchment and

chop finety, using a sharp knife dipped in cold water. Add a thin layer of finely chopped strawberries to each glass, then a layer of chopped ietty'
7 Stir the

8-ro sma[[ scoops of good quatity
vanilla ice cream (preferably
homemade, page r58)

softly set panna cotta in the bowt, then spoon a layer on top ofthe

dried pineappte and star fruit slices (optionat, see betow)

chopped ietty. Add crushed amaretti, then arrange the peach stices on top. Finatty, as a crowning glory, top the peaches with two scoops of vanitta ice cream and finish with dried fruit stices or sliced strawberries. Serve immediatety'

Oven-dried wafer-thin slices of firm fruit, such as pineapple, apple, banana (iltustrated make a stunning decoration. Simply cut slightly under-ripe fruit into very fine slices. right), and star fruit using a sharp, serrated fruit knife. Sprinkle fruit that is liable to discoloration, such as banana, with lemon juice. Dip the fruit stices quickty into Stock Syrup (page 164), shake offexcess, then lay on baking sheets lined with silicone cool<ing liners- Leave in the oven on its lowest settihg for a good z hours until firm and almost translucent' The slices will crisp up on cooling. Store in airtight ptastic containers for up to a week.

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twist to separate and thinty slice the flesh.$d %Yhtq. then peet. then slice thinty. Ptace in a large bowl and pour on the syrup. f€. Add att these fruits to the bowl and stir gentty to combine. For a light stock syrup you will need to ditute it. Put them together in a vibrant fruit salad to brighten the winter days. 3 Cut the mango down either side ofthe [arge stone' PeeI away the skin and cut the flesh into small cubes. hulled 1-2 pOmegranales 1 4 Dip the peach briefty into hot water to loosen the skin. r star fruit z kiwi fruit. Cool and bottle or pour into a iar and l<eep in the fridge (for up to z weeks) to use as required. Cut into quarters. Angostura z-3 tablespoons grenadine syrup r medium ripe pineapple r large ripe mango r large peach r Asian pear (nashi) z Prepare the fruits. such as pared strips of citrus zest. then peet the flesh and cut into smatl chunks. juicy seeds add a special quality to this salad. Gentty stir these into the fruit salad. Halve or quarter the strawberries. ? t 164 Fruit I . bruised lemon grass stall(s or a dash of liqueur. Amaretto or Kahtua.tropical fruit satad with pomegranate seeds Make the most of tropicat fruits during the winter when they are in good supply and homegrown fruits are limited. Peelthe pineapple and remove the 'eyes'with the tip of a vegetable peeter or sharp l<nife. Cut in hatf.$Fl This has so many uses. I suggest aromatic Angostura Bitters and a dash of grenadine syrup to accentuate the pomegranate flavour. 6 Add the papaya just before serving. then carefully scrape out the fleshy seeds. in the lemon juice. Stice the star fruit and l<iwi fruit. then stir Bitters and grenadine. which is very bitter. Transfer to a serving bowl and scatter over the pomegranate seeds. I suggest you make up a quantity of full strength syrup. such as Malibu. lmpart character and colour by adding fLavourings. Dissolve the sugar in the water in a heavy-based pan over a low heat. Peet. peeled zz5g strawberries. remove the core and cut the ftesh into bite-sized chunks. mint sprigs. lt is important to remove att of the creamy yettow membrane. adding about hatf the volume of water. Add to the bowt.i-#d. hatve verticatty. then bring to the boil and boil for 5 minutes. Pomegranates are in season from late outumn through to the spring and their fragrant. using 5ooml water and 5oog sugar. Chitt untiI ready to serve. quarter and core the Asian pear. SERVES 6-8 z5omI Stock Syrup (see below) juice of z lemons r tablespoon Angostura Bitters r Mix the syrup with rooml boiting water. 5 To papaya (paw paw) prepare the pomegranate(s). Vary the flavour of the stock syrup according to taste. Cut in hatl scoop out and discard the seeds.

For o simple compote. Heat a large heavy-based non-sticl< frying pan untiI you can see a faint haze rising. then searing them in a very hot. if using. then macerate in syrup with poiry eau-de-vie or Calvados blackberries. then 4 Add the berries and syrup to the caramelised apptes and pears. such as apptes and pears. 3 Lightty crush the berries in a bowl.ru -ffi#S-$TE ffi Tossing autumn fruits. Serve with cream. core and stice the apples and pears. Brief cooking is essentiat. You only need to carametise the outside remain firm. SERVES 4-6 r Quarter. in icing sugar. Tip the hot fruits into a bowl. stir required. gentty. sifted about t5og frying pan and spread out in a single layer. . pan-roast qnd some crushed apples and pears until lightly caramelised. Cover 5 To cupfuI of blackberries or elderberries. and toss to mix. Serve chilled. z Toss the sliced z large fresh Cox's apples z large Conference or Williams pears 4 fruits in the icing sugar. give the fruits a gentle stir. as the fruit slices should remain intact. with cream. Fruit r65 . then immediatety tip them into the tablespoons icing sugar. Add the poire eau-de-vie or Catvados. then sprinkle with chopped mint if you [ike.B $T'S FS. but don't peel them. ripe orchard and hedgerow fruits in desserts.the fruit shoutd still z5oml Stocl< Syrup (page r5+) z tablespoons poire eau-de-vie or Calvados (optionat) r tablespoon chopped mint (optionat) serve. dry pan gives them a fabulous ffi caramelised flavour and colour.roasted autumn fruits in brambte syrup Early autumn is the time to feature flavourful. F ffi q". then turn each piece to tightty colour the other sides. Leave for about zo seconds until the undersides are beginning to carametise. using a forl< and pour over the syrup. chitt untit and set aside to cool and altow the ftavours to mingle.

then drain in a sieve over a bowl to save the stocl( syrup' or food processor' graduatty 3 Pur6e the pears in a blender pur6e into a adding back the reserved stock syrup' Pour the ice cream bowt. Wittiams or Comice pears' iust riPe but stitt firm juice of r lemon r chunks' Pee[. which has an amazing flavour. then cut into and Place in a large pan with the lemon iuice. refreshing sorbet is an ideal palate cleanser favourite well too. from the freezer' atlow it to 4 lfyou are serving the sorbet Scoop soften stightty at room temperature for ro minutes' crisp with into batls and serve in smatt gtass dishes' dessert biscuits if You tike. t find the flavour of but red Williams and Comice pears work is the bright Forelle. cinnamon out the star anise. then churn in an at once machine to a thicl<. SERVES 4-6 6 Forette. cover and chitt thoroughty. reptace 3 Smiths apptes' The sharpness of the apptes complements the mellow sweetness of the pears perfectty' t i 1bb frull I .pear sorbet This My red-skinned pears is especially good for sorbets' to round off a rich meat. quarter. Stit the vanilta pod tengthways. scrape pod' seeds and add them to the pan with the empty to the boit' 2 Pour the stocK syrup over the pears and bring minutes' or Lower the heat and simmer gently for ro-l5 r cinnamon sticl< 4 star anise r vanitla pod 1i z5omI Stock SYruP (Page 164) untilthe pears soften. seat and store freezer for uP to 2 weeKs. and core the pears. to serve between courses' or as a light dessert simple. Remove the whole spices and vani[[a pod. soft frozen texture' Either serve in the or transfer to a freezer container. Leave the pears to cool in the tiquid. VARIATION pears with Granny For an appte and pear sorbet.

slice the reserved plum halves as thinty as possible and use to line the sides of4 shallow sundae glasses or glass bowls. vanilla pods. then pour into the pan. buy dark-skinned plums at their peak of ripeness. vanitla pods. Serve in elegant bowls or wide glasses lined with wafer-thin plum slices. Bring to the boit. Rub this through a fine chinois or sieve into a bowl with the bacl< of a ladle. Tip the plums and syrup into a blender or food processor and whiz to a smooth pur6e. serve this sensational ice-cold soup rather than a sorbet. then remove the cinnamon. to serve tiquid gtucose. (lllustrated overleaf) SERVES 4 5oog ripe dark red plums 3 tablespoons icing sugar. Cut the rest into quarters. Stir the yogurt untiI smooth and runny. Cover the bowl with cting fitm and chitt the soup untiI required. for about a seeds scraped out wilt do) single layer. then finely pared strips of zest from 1 Orange z star anise turn to lightty cotour the other sides.chitted soup of pan-roasted plums As a refreshing dessert to impress. without moving. then z cinnamon sticks z vanilla pods (empty pods with the immediately tip them into the pan and spread out in zest and star anise. orange zo seconds untiI beginning to carametise underneath. adding the cinnamon. Heat a wide. A spiral of creamy bio yogurt adds a sophisticated finishing touch - no one will guess it's simply squeezed from a plastic bottle. Cool<. Carefu[[y pour in the soup. sifted r Halve and stone the ptums and set aside the 6 best halves to serve. orange zest and star anise. rich colour. z Toss the plum quarters in the icing sugar. shallow heavy-based pan until you can see a faint haze rising. For an intense. then trickle on top ofthe soup and serve. 3 Mix the stocl< syrup with rooml boiting water and the zoomI Stocl< Syrup (page 164) r tablespoon liquid glucose zoog natural creamy bio yogurt. 4 Set aside to coot. Fruit 767 . 5 When ready to serve. then lower the heat and simmer for rc-t5 minutes until the plums are softened.

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Thesimplestfinishesareofrenthemosteffective.TocreatetheeffectitLustratedinthephotograph,putthe

yogurt into a clean (squeezabte) plastic bottle, reptace the top and squeeze a spiral ofthin yogurt on to each portion of soup.

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ffi $ftffi T$ffi w. always use leaf gelatine because it softens and dissolves more easily than powdered gelatine, without 'clumping'. However you do need to ensure the liquid you are adding the leaves to is very hot (ust below boiling point) or the setting quality may be adversely affected.

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17

O

Fruit

melon and grape jetty
Fruit jellies are wonderfully refreshing and always popular with our guests. We serve them in small shot glasses topped with o ftoat of singte cream or yogurt. I like to experiment with new flovours - melon with grape is one of our recent successes.

fruit that is soft enough to pur€e, for a clean, fresh taste. A fragrant melon that is almost over-ripe can be used here. Passing the purde through a jelly bag helps to clarify the iuice, but it's not vital. SERVES 4-6
you need o

r

Hatve the melon and scoop out the seeds. Using a

tiny melon batler, scoop out

r [arge, well ripened Galia or
Charentais melon r tablespoon [emon juice

about 16 balts and set aside. z Scoop the remaining melon ftesh from the skin and ptace in a btender or food processor with the temon juice. Pur6e until smooth, then whiz in the stocl< syrup.

rooml Stock Syrup (page 164)
3 sheets leaf gelatine (or z teaspoons

3 For a clear jetty, pour the melon pur6e through a jetty bag suspended from a hool< or a large sieve tined with wet muslin, ptaced over a bow[. Attow the tiquid to drip through (rather than force it) to achieve a clear set. lt may take an hour or so for a[[ the iuice to drip through. You should have around 5oom[. (lf a crystat
clear set isn't your goal, sl<ip this stage.)
(Or soal< powdered 4 Soal< the getatine leaves in cold water to cover untit ftoppy. gelatine in z tablespoons cotd water untit spongy.)

powdered gelatine) 7og smalI seedless grapes

5 Heat the meton juice untilon the point of boiting. Remove the gelatine teaves from the cold water and squeeze out excess. Take the melon iuice offthe heat and stide in the gelatine (or add the softened getatine), stirring untiI dissolved.
Set aside to coo[.

6 Meanwhite, peet the grapes if you tike (but not if you're short of time). Pour a

tittte meton ielty into the base of 4-6 glasses and add a few melon balls and a few grapes. Chitt untit set. Add another layer of cooI tiquid ietly and fruit. Chirt
again untit set. Repeat the layers, chitting each to set, until you reach the top of the glasses. Chitt untit ready to serve.

ffi F'S T$ff s"ning the fruits within the jelly in layers ensures they are evenly distributed. lfyou add them altogether the fruit witl settle in a layer on

f,ffi

the top ofthe ielly.

Fruit

771

a tong.press the sides down stightty to ftute them if necessary. if using. but other ingredients can be used. put a strawberry cream batt in the centre. ? 772 Fruit I . sweetening to taste with a tittte icing sugar. Lay the pineappte horizontatty on a board and cut rz stices as thinty as you possibly can . remove the flavourings. {-}'g$rf}L4 Sitfl. zoog thicl< crdme fraiche a littte sifted icing sugar.#it[i. In this recipe lemon grass provides the flavour. Beat the crame fraiche 4 crush the strawberries with a fork to a rough untitthicl( and fotd in the crushed fruit. then position a larger pineappte slice on top. iust ripe pineaPPte 4oog strawberries put the caster sugar into a pan with 4oomlwater and dissolve over a low heat. serrated knife or electric carving l<nife is ideal for this.ravioli of pineapple with crushed strawberry cream grass. longer. Pour ihe syrup into a bowl and add the lemon grass or lemon zest to infuse the syrup as it coots. Shape the mixture into six batts. stit the [emon grass in half tengthways. when cold.T steepingfresh fruit in stocl<svrup with aromatics lends a subtle ftavour and alters the texture of the fruit to give it a different character. together with balts of crushed strawberry cream. using an ice cream scoop. or strips of finety pared zest from r lemon r large. such as star anise. choose six of the smallest pineappte slices for the base and place one on each dessert plate. to taste 2 peel the pineapple and remove the'eyes'with the tip of a potato peeter or sharp l<nife. and deliciously 2oog caster sugar r r lemon grass stalk. vanilla. then sandwiched Wafer-thin slices of fresh pineapple are macerated overnight in stock syrup infused with lemon 6 SERVES refreshing. Lay the pineappte slices in the syrup as you cut them. untit they soften. simple. mal<ing sure that each is we[[ coated in syrup before you add another. lt shoutd drape over the cream . 3 cover and leave to steep overnight in the fridge.serve as soon as possible. or Drain off the syrup and dab each stice with l(itchen paper to dry stightty' pur6e. then bring to the boit and boitfor 5 minutes. l<irsch or brandv. That's it .

press the bananas tightty through the papillotes with the bacl< of a fori.. and rum if using. over a pan of gentty simmering water. Gas 4. 3 For the papittotes. stirring once or twice.ii1 :'rr-i. using a fish stice. Serve the bananas in their pouches for your guests to open at the table. 5 Transfer the papiltotes to targe serving ptates. pour hatf the cream into a medium saucepan and add the sugar.ThisissimplytheFrenchtermforbakinginpaper. which puffs up and browns in the heat ofthe oven. at least 6o% cocoa solids rzoml double cream half of the paper over the bananas to enctose them and pteat the edges together to sea[.Thefoodis sealed in the paper parce[. then simmer for 2 minutes. Fotd one 7og unsalted butter Chocolate sauce: 8og darl< chocolate. handing round the chocolate souce in a iug. Bring Coramel sauce: slowly to the boit. To mal<e the carameI sauce. lt is an attractive way to present this dish. 174 . A scoop of pistachio or roasted almond ice cream would be a perfect touch. then pour into a jug and set aside to cool. Leave untiI melted. Remove and stir untit smootn. z Meanwhile. They witt l<eep warm for at least ro minutes. while the food inside cool<s in the trapped steam. Remove from 3oomI doubte cream rTog tight muscovado sugar 4 tablespoons tiquid gtucose the heat and whisl< in the remaining cream. warn guests to be careful oftrapped steam as they open up their parcels. measuring 3ocm square. Bananas are baked in paper pouches along with a rich caramel sauce. r-z tablespoons rum (optiona[) 4 Ptace the papitlotes on a bal<ing sheet and bal<e for B-ro minutes depending on the ripeness ofthe bananas.i-:':. To checl< that they are softened. Breal< up the chocotate and place in a heatproof bowt with the cream.1.. Pee[ the bananas and slit each in half lengthways. mal<e the chocotate sauce. though you can simpty bal<e the banana haLves in a foi[-covered shallow dish with the caramel sauce poured over if you prefer. tear off four sheets of greaseproof paper. glucose and butter. i:. place 3 banana halves in the centre of each paper square and drizzle over the caramel sauce.ii''i.caramet bananas en papil[ote with chocolate sauce lf you enioy baked bananas as a dessert then this creamy caramel version should please.r.. finishing SERVES 4 6 just ripe bananas (not too soft) r Preheat the oven to r8ooC. stirring untit smooth. Hand round the chocolate sauce to pour over the bananas.

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Remove to a warm ptate and keep warm' Repeat with the remaining brioche stices. 2 Heat hatfthe butter in a heavy-based frying pan and toss in the peaches' sprinl<te with icing sugar and continue to cook over a high heat untiI nicely caramelised. Score each peach vertically around the middte to the stone' and twist the hatves to separate. then + Quickty dip a brioche slice in the egg. has been a favourite way olusing up stightty stale bread for centuries. such as blueberries trickted with maple syrup. (targe enough to take a stice of 3 Pour the beaten eggs into a shattow dish pan brioche). then piled on top get supplies of superb ltalian white peaches can also be served as a brunch. use sweet yellow peaches here. turn to lift out golden and add to the pan. Wipe out the pan. or even nectarines' Top with for me one of the great treats of the sLlmmer. Add a scoop of mascarpone or whipped cream' dust with icing sugar and serve. You can. Made with fresh brioche it is a great base for other pan-roasted fruits. then ftip over and cool< the other side for about 3o seconds until nicely golden brown. 5 As soon as they are atl cooked. 'Lost bread'as it is PAilf. Heat hatf of the remaining butter with r tablespoon of oil in the 4 targe peaches. or 8 smaller ones roog butter 3-4 tablespoons icing sugar. beaten r-z tablespoons sunflower oil 4 stices brioche loaf mascarpone or whipPed doubte cream. about z-3 minutes. compotes of apricots and pears' and fresh berries.pain perdu with roasted Peaches ofwarm French toasted brioche for a fast dessert. coat the other side. ptace the brioche slices on warm serving plates and spoon the peaches on top. PHRffiU Fruit 77 5 . such as plums and caramelised apptes. Plus extra to dust z large free-range eggs.$ literatly translated. Cut the halves into quarters or eighths depending on size. August to September. Remove the fruits to a ptate and keep warm. cook over a medium-high heat for 45 seconds or unti[ brown. which fragrant peaches are quickly pan-roasted. For a limited season. to serve untilthe butter stops foaming. and a dottop of mascarpone or whipped cream and eat the pain perdu with a knife fork SERVES 4 r lmmerse the peaches in a bowl of boiting hot water for barely 30 seconds' then remove with a stotted spoon and peel away the sl<ins as soon as the fruit is coot enough to handte. we of course. adding more butter and oiI to the pan as necessary. Fresh.

rt.. ur. cream dessert that's perfect for at fresco eating..*. use rong peach' mango or pineapple' if you like' SERVES 4 combination of summer fruits . Chitt untiI required' arrange the fruit kebabs around' a place the bowt of cream on a serving ptate and tiked' Sprinkte the cream with a few lavender flowers if To about rz long dried stall<s of lavender or thin wooden sataY sticks tu&qd' ffi ru ffi i ffi. Altow to heat untit clear.. fragrant served with a lavender infused cream. ro concentrate the flavour' we than fresh flowers. for an easy stalks' Use any thin wooden satay sticks instead ofthe dried ravender serves as a dip. t7 6 Fruit .f. Pour into a small bowl and teaspoons clear honeY z5og smalt strawberries or witd strawberries (fraises de bois) rz5g rasPberries or [oganberries rz5g blueberries rz5g blacl<berries 5og redcurrants 5og white currants serve: 3Huttthestrawberries. Floristsspecialising in dried rt.adding cubes of z tablesPoons caster sugar 4 dried lavender heads 15Og mascarpone lDissolvethecastersugarin4tabtespoonsofwaterinasma[[panoveralow simmer for z minutes.or.o. creamy custards' subtly enhances even chocolate ganache .. Ori. tut.ffi $ F$ fl t$S C #ru S flowers to infuse sugar syrups. The luscious. then add the tavender heads and coot.. For more robust skewers.O'*.Skewertogetherwiththeotherfruitsondriedlavender statl<s or thin satay sticks.summer berry l<ebabs with lavender honey dip lavender stalks and Here flavou(ul berries are skewered on to dried Berries and cream are the ultimate summer sensation. then strain the syrup and reserve' r5oml whiPPing cream 2 2Beatthemascarponeandcreamtogetheruntitsofttystiff'thenfotdinthe chitt' sugar syrup and honey. in a lavender and hang the stems cupboard to drY.l"t picl< your own ftowers are a good source of supply' Alternatively or airing kitchen' dry warm.the tight florat fragrance delicious effea.t .

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Fresh yeost will give the best texture and flavour. about 45-5o minutes. MAKES r LARGE LOAF 15g fresh yeast r Crumble the yeast into a medium bowl and whisl< in the warmed untit tepid mitl< until dissolved. Place on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and cover loosely with cLing fitm. Blend l/. Sprinl<le semolina. 5 Knock bacl< the dough on a clean surface and shape into a large ovat. Remove and slide on to a wire racl< to coot. Wait for a few minutes untiLthe mixture begins to bubble. rotlthe tops back and forth a few times to smooth. pressing tightty so it stays in place. 3 When the 'sponged'dough is ready. Pain de Mie is best eaten within a day or two. Reduce the setting to r8ooC. in pieces 2 ready when you can press it and leave a thumbprint. and the loaf sounds hotlow when tapped on the base. though you can use dried yeast. to sprinkle oi[. teaspoons caster sugar 4 tablespoons cold miik 4 Place the dough in a bow[. add to the flour welt with the cold milk and flour (preferably organic. teaspoons with a little of the tepid mill< and z tablespoons of the soft flour. z Meanwhile. Knead vigorousty for 5-ro minutes. 6 Spray the baking sheet around the risen dough with cold water. Meanwhile. or fine sea salt mix to a soft dough. either in a machine with a dough hook. or by hand on a very tightly floured work surface. preheat the oven to zoooC.pain de mie This gorgeous French bread is a cross between a brioche and a simple white loaf. Place the dough on the baking sheet and leave to prove until doubled in size. oastries and cakes . Then beat in the rz5g plain flour until quite smooth. ffi&flru WW WWW WffiL|*ffi shape the dough into 8 balls. rz5mlwhole (zooC) miU<.SY tryou cannot obJain rresh yeast. then bake at zoooC. Yffi&. Cover with cting fitm and leave in a warm place (such as an airing cupboard at about zSoC) for about r hour rz5g plain white flour (preferably organic. or shaped into 8 rolls. dough can be baked free form as a cob. then stir in the sugar. Make a well in the centre. unbleached) 16o9 strong white to'sponge'. then immediately bal<e for ro minutes. I recommend ordinary dried active yeast here (rather than fast-action). unbleached) 1 teaspoon crushed Maldon salt. Gas 6. lt is quite to easy to make. Continue as above. The secret is to make a yeast'sponge'first to get the yeast active. Gas 6 for just rz minutes. The dough is zog butter. sift the strong flour and satt into a bowl and rub in the butter. Gas 4 and bal<e for a further r5-zo minutes or until golden brown and crisp. Leave to prove until doubled in size. B-JSgffi ffi3ffi g ffi Kft ffi l8O Ftour: breads. then press them into a bowl containing some semolina. or in a round tin. to brush the top with semotina. Oil a heavy bal<ing sheet and sprinl<le the base tiberatty with semotina. then mix in the remaining tepid milk and soft ftour. especially if you The have a mixer with a dough hook. coverwith cting fitm and leave in a warm spot (z8oC) for about r hour until doubted in butl<.

r(eep one coverec while you roll out the other to an ova[. about z5-3ocm long and ro-rzcm wide. about 20x73cm. Brusn the fougasse tiberatty with the remaining otive oil as thev cool. using a very sharp l<nife. flavoured with sun-dried tomatoes ond herbs. Repeat to mal<e another fougasse with the remaining dough. or 3o minutes or so. place r4og of the flour in a [arge bowl and mix in teaspoons ofthe yeast. then fold the bottom 1-2 teaspoons dried oregano third up to the centre and the top third over that .sponged' mixture with the rest of the strong ftour. Flour: breads.to give a rectangle. but now more often made with a trvoury twist. fold and roll one more time. then immediatety bal<e for about r5 minutes until browned and crisp. until it begins to rise. cover with cting fitm and [eave in a '. plus extra to dust 79 sachet fast-action dried yeast r/. instead of sun-dried tomatoes ano chives. Gas 7. remaining yeast and r tablespoon of the otive oit. originally an orange-scented sweet dough. scatter the tomato pieces and chives or oregano over the dough. rotl out to a 4ocm square. 3 Turn 3ooml bottled sti[[ spring water 8og rye flour r'l teaspoons crushed Maldon satt the dough on to a tightty floured surface and r<nead firmry for about 5 minutes. 5 Fotd the sides into the middte. pat the sun-dried tomatoes dry with l<itchen paper if necessary and cut into smalI bite'sized pieces. This version. Leave in a warm ptace untit doubted in size. preheat the oven ro zzooc. Ro[ (or putt and pat) the dough out again to a square. 9 Meanwhile. unbleached). spray the bal<ing sheets around each fougasse with water.sponge.. Mix thoroughly. (lllustrated overleaf) MAKES z ""0rm - r To mal<e the 'sponge'.c) for Filling: rz5g semi-soft sun-dried tomatoes or a z8og jar. Transfer to a ctean bowl.sun -d ried tomato fougasse -cugasse is the great ProvenEal rich flat bread. swapping the bal<ing sheets hatfway through cool<ing. Using a rolting pin. salt. either side of the middte. 8 Brush with a tittte more otive oiI and cover toosety with cting film. untilyou have a smooth.varm place (such as an airing cupboard) for about rl 42og strong white flour (preferabty organic. pastries and cajres 181 . 6 Divide the dough in hatf and shape each piece into a rog. about 3o minutes. 7 Lift the dough on to a bal<ing sheet [ined with bal<ing parchment and slash the top quite deeply at an angle.hours to . the rye ftour. is my favourite especially eaten aL fresco on a summer evening' To give the dough a head start. 4 Meanwhile. sprinl<te the top with crushed Maldon sea salt ftal<es just before bal<ing. you need to make a yeast 'sponge'. fairty soft dough. vARlATl0N scatter roog chopped pitted blacl< or green olives and r tablespoon snipped rosemary over the rotled-out dough. z Now heat the remaining r8omI water untit tepid and beat into the . Knocl< the risen dough bacl< on a tightty flourec surface. drained 4 tablespoons chopped chives. add to the iLour and beat for r-z minutes untitsmooth. Heat rzoml ofthe water untit tepid (zo"c). or fine sea salt 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oit cover with cting fitm and leave to rise in a warm ptace (at about zg.

(Put the other half in a dried clean ptastic container and refrigerate or freeze for another batch of sourdough') a bow[. to dust sunflower oit. Then turn the temperature down to zoooC. finelY crushed or fine sea satt you can press it and teave a thumbprint. then turn out on to a clean surface. minutes. if using. r unbleached) 1259 rye flour. about 6oo9. You need to a r5og organic low-fat live bio yogurt 5og organic currants. knead again for about 3 bow[. unbleached) 125g strong wholemeaI with cting fitm and leave in a warm place untitthe mixtures bubbtes' about:. yogurt and For this clqssic sourdough. then return to the 7 Knock bacl< the dough. hatf-fitted with boiting water on a lower oven shetf.sourdough apple iuice. preheat the oven to z5ooC. Gas 6 and cool< for another z5-30 minutes untitthe crust is mid-brown in colour and the bread sounds holtow when tapped underneath. into and stir brisl<ty to dissolve. process' MAKES z OR 3 LOAVES airing cupboard or draught-free spot in a warm kitchen. cover with cting fitm and leave in a warm place for about I hour until doubled in size. Ptace the batons wetl apart on this and make 4 or 5 diagonat stashes along each one with a razor-sharp knife. Ptace in a tightty oited bowl. like an currants introduce natural yeasts that feed on the flours and bubble into tivety. Ro[tthese into batons. Beat wetl for about 5 minutes to a smooth. you need to make a yeast starter. 25-3ocm tong. Ptace the bal<ing sheet hotding the batons on a higher shetf and bal<e for 5 minutes. to oil g Knockthe dough bacl<again and divide into z or3 equa[ pieces. thicl< batter. Repeat this process for a total of 5 days by which time you should have tivety fermenting starter. yogurt and currants. Organic A warm dry place. Gas 9 and boit the kettte. cover and leave in a warm place (such as For an airing cupboard at about z8oC) for z4 hours. roomI organic (unfittered) appte iuice extra white flour and semolina. tasty ferments.as you l<nead. mix with the water and z pinches of caster sugar and leave for about 10 minutes until it begins to 'sponge. cover and store as above. place both ftours in a plastic bowl with the appte iuice. rye and remaining juice. then sprinkte the top tightty with rye ftour. plus up to r5og extra the starter. onty dusting the surface very tightty with ftour if necessary . Mix with your large mixing bowt. add the tepid water 3 For the bread. The dough is ready when flour 5og rye flour z teaspoons Matdon salt. CooI on a wire racl<. white flour with the satt in a warm 5 combine the whotemeat. 784 Flour: breads. cover and leave to prove for another hour. washed and use half. Sprinl<te tightty with white flour and leave in a warm spot untit risen by about a third. oita large non-stick heavy bal<ing sheet and dust with semolina. or z teaspoons dried active yeast and a little caster sugar zoomI tepid spring water (zooC) 4 3oog rye starter (from above) 3Z5g strong white flour (preferably organic.' Mix the yeast tiquid with the rye starter and hatf the white flour. the dough witt become smooth and less sticl<y. 6 l(nead wett. Meanwhite. helps the fermentation Starter: 125g strong ftour (preferably organic. lf using dried yeast. crumble the fresh yeast. pastries and cakes . Cover loosely Breod: rog fresh yeast. hour. g put a roasting tin. a good 4-5 days ahead. Add the bubbting yeast dough and apple hands untit the dough no longer feets sticl<y. to sprinl<le rTomI organic (unfittered) apple iuice z Lightty beat the starter and sprinkte again with rye flour.

.t! 3r'.t1 #i..-.€il$:q&{i*1 . peeled. Co:tinue from stage 8.-ji. then puil the top doivn a thrrd and the bottom up and over that.S. ?i"':t .. FoLd the sides into the middle. Rotl and fotd once more. Roll out to a large rectangle. .. .. to make a rectangle.:i-.1'.5cm chunks. and scatter eveniy almost to the edges with a medium Bramley apple. about rcm thicl<.:ii.ririsdericiousservedwithcheese. then cover and leave to rise again for about r hour.Mal<eupthebasicsourdoughrorheendor stage 6. .i-i :il:. F\Ft#i-fl.:::i.:li:.r..''i i.i.:::--:.S"E rr. 4. cored and cut into r.$$.

T"#FPfrffiffi". or folded Parma ham. but blinis make good starters with less expensive toppings (see below). For an unusual topping. blinis warm. 4 Whisk the egg whites in a ctean bow[ to soft peal<s. then /. Allow two per person. The blinis won't be as neatly rounded. crumble in the fresh yeast and stir briskty until roomI milk. then cook spoonfuls of batter in a large heavy-based frying pan. gradually adding the rest of the yeasty milk and the beer. Or top with lemon mayonnaise and flaked gritled salmon. you shoutd have sufficient batter to make rz btinis. for a stow rise. Alternativety. heated until tepid r5g fresh yeast (or fast-action dried yeast. about 8cm in diameter. spoon on a LittLe fig jam and top with slices of Duck'Bresaola' (page 6o). checl< that the underside is brown. Make a well in the centre and add the egg yotl< and hatf of the yeast mixture. Melt a l<nob of a butter in each pan and heat until you can feeI a strong heat rising. For smaller thicker blinis. Beat to a thick batter with a whisk. see below) 55g strong ptain flour 45g buckwheat flour dissolved. it witt take about 4 hours to bubbte. Flour: breads. Loosen the edges with a palette l<nife.teaspoon fine sea salt r free-range egg yolk z tabtespoons beer z free-range egg whites 2 teaspoons sugar butter.buckwheat btinis Large wafer-thin cr€pes made with buckwheat flour are popular across northern France. then cooked in small cast-iron blini pans. the buckwheat batter is fermented with a little yeast to lighten and flavour it. then whisk in the sugar. Spoon tadtefutof batter into each pan and cool< for 7-Ty2minuIes until the surface is covered with tiny bubbles and no longer lool<s wet on the surface. leave the batter in the fridge. If you haven't any ofthese pans. like drop scones. 5 Tal<e one or two cast-iron blini pans. SERVES 6 AS A STARTER r Put the tepid mitk into a jug. topped with a doltop of thick soured cream or crdme fraiche and smoked salmon scrunched into rosettes. and the sides lool< cooked. Soured cream and caviar is the traditional topping. with your preferred toppings (see betow). but the flavour and texture will be just as good.ru. pastries and cal<es 187 . page r88) is an ideaI vegetarian option. 3 Cover with cting film and leave in a warm spot for about an hour or until bubbtes start to appear and the mixture looks as if it is expanding. then flip over and cool< for a minute on the other side. 6 Stacl< the btinis in a fotded clean tea towel to l<eep them warm white you cool< the rest. to fry fotd in the remaining whites. standing on a damp ctoth to hotd it steady. using a spatula. Beat a spoonfuI of the whisl<ed egg whites into the btini batter to loosen it. Serve warm.% S. z Mix the two ftours and salt together in a large bow[. The shalLot and cep topping (from Caramelised Cep Tarts.

then remove the top bal<ing sheet parchment. to serve then leaves from the thyme sprig. scatter over the Parmesan shavings and serve warm. stirring often. chop and fry with the fresh mushrooms. be then drain. Pricl< the dough and place on a heavy non-stick 6. Heat hatf the butter and r tablespoon olive oil in a saucepan. finely choPPed r thyme sPrig sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< 4 pepper z5g Parmesan cheese. pur6e and pastry discs. pastries and cakes . Add the shallots. season food for another few minutes untiI reduced right down' Transfer to a blender or processor and whiz untit smooth and creamy' Set aside' parchment and place another flat heavy 3 cover the pastry discs with bal<ing and bal<ing sheet on top. cook for a further 2-3 minutes' remove from the heat.caramelised cep tarts purde. with trimmings (optionat) 3 tablespoons chicl<en stock or white wine z tablespoons double cream z5og fresh ceps. spread the onion pur6e thicl<ty 5 Lightty warm the onion over the pastry and arrange the caramelised ceps on top. Add the onion. make the onion pur€e. Return the pastry discs to the oven for up to 3 minutes untiI gotden brown and crisp. Rest in the refrigerator white you heat the oven to zoooc. stir in the stock or wine and cream. The soal<ing liquor can strained and used instead of the stock or wine' r88 Flour: breads. and saut6 gentty for up to 15 minutes untiI softened but not co[oured. then topped with caramelised ceps and Wafer-thin puff pastry discs are covered with a layer of creamy onion stock' parmesan shavings. Bal<e for rz minutes. use thinly pack of sticed. Remove and carefutty transfer to a wire rack' ceps Heat the remaining butter and otive oit in a saut6 pan. or simpty for a cheaper option. This recipe is suitable for vegetarians if you omit the bacon and use white wine rather than chicken SERVES 4 AS A STARTER oR LIGHT MEAL 35og Puff Pastry (Page r9o) 5og butter z tablespoons olive oil r Rot[ out the pastry to the thicl<ness of a fr coin and cut out four rzcm discs. VARIATION when fresh ceps are not in season. baking sheet. Gas r large Spanish onion. Pared into shavings. with the bacon trimmings if using. about 5 minutes. large portobetto mushrooms and enhance the ftavour with a rog dried porcini mushrooms. Soal< the dried mushrooms in hot water for ro minutes. thinty sticed z5g smol<ed bacon or Pancetta z Meanwhite. cleaned and thintY sticed z shallots. using a smatl saucer as a guide. then add the sliced the and saut6 untiI nicety caramelised. and cool( Remove the bacon pieces. and seasoning.

To obtain wafer-thin flat pastry bases. .I love the light crispness of puff pastry but not al[ those deep puffy layers.the perfect foil for a caramelised shaltot ard cep topping. I bal<e puft pastry discs between two heavy baking sheets. -his impedes rising and produces meLt-in"the-mouth crisp pastry .

and a wonderful half' Make up a batch and recipe calls for z5og puff pastry use a quarter ofthis recipe. {'{ il il' S 5. This is best 3 Now.twice 4 On a tightty ftoured surface. Fotd as before.n pastry rises best when the fat has been incorporated into the flour dough in very fine. z5 x35cm rectangle . z Add the vinegar and tricl(te in the ice-cotd water. divide into corner of the dough to corresPond with the number of rollings. Mal<e sure the edges and corners are straight and neat. This can be done in a food processor. of butter. then bottom over. mixing with a table l<nife untit it comes together as a smooth dough. wrap and chitt the dough at the same time . 74x2ocm. cut into chunks 5oog plain flour 1f teaspoon fine sea salt r Divide the butter into 45og and 5og portions. This depends on the flour. To keeP tabs on the number of rollings after each folding. tease the dough into shape. Simpty pat or pull the dough into line. This is one ofthe secrets ofsuccess. for 35og use a third.r'. t9O Ftour: breads. of the rotted dough and fotd 5 ptace the chitted butter rectangle on the longend the dough in two to comptetely enctose the butter. freezing any you don't need to use now' MAKES r'zkg 5oog butter.fli{. For this reason it is important to always the edges ofthe dough are as straight as Possible when rolting and folding. then wrap in cting film and chitt for another zo minutes. press a fingertiP into the mal<e sure direction. 6 Rott out the dough in one direction only until it is three times the tength. or longer in warm weather. making sure none ofthe butter breaks through. that is top to centre. for 5oog use divide into portions.puff pastry melt'in-the-mouth texture' lf a Homemade puff pastry certainly has a richer flavour than ready'made puff.. even laYers. pastries and cal<es . spoon this mixture out on l teaspoon white wine vinegar about 3oomI ice-cotd water fitm and shape into a rectangle. Press the edges ofthe dough together to seat in the butter. a third time. Fold as before. wrap well in cting fitm and chitt untit firm. rolt out the dough to a the size ofthe butter. lfnecessary.both for around zo minutes. Give the dough a quarter turn and roll it out again in one i.ffi Li't" p. tightty dusting with ftour as necessary. mix the remaining 5og flour into the remaining 45og large sheet of cting to a done using an electric mixer. bringing the top third the bottom third on top. Finatly. g Unwrap with the fotd to the same side as before and roll out for portions as dictated by your recipe. down to the centre' then folding 7 Fotd the dough in three. You may not need a[[ the water. or you may need a tittte more. l<eeping those edges neat. set aside 5og of the ftour' sift the rest of the ftour with the salt into a bowl and rub in the 5og of the butter untiI the mixture lool<s [ike fine breadcrumbs.

With the machine on its lowest speed. This hetps to prevent it cracl<ing as you roll it. moke this pastry in an electric mixer. Stop the machine once or twice and scrape down the sides. 4 Gather the dough and ptace on a tightty floured surface./:. each ofthese portions wilL be sufficient to line a 27-23 cm taft tin. I teaspoon fine sea salt I i"-. Briefty l<nead it with your hands until smooth. As soon as the mixture comes together as a crumbly dough. beaten 5oog plain flour flour in 3 or 4 stages. scrape out the seeds and add these to the mixture.' l lf you divide the pdte sucr6e dough into 3 equal portions. freezing any portions you don't need now for later use. Make up a big batch and divide into 3 or 4 portions. 5 Before rolling out. Wrap portions you don't need to use immediately in freezer film and freeze. MAKES ABOUT rkg r Using an electric mixer.. Sptit open the vanilla pods. pastries and cal<es 797 . Double wrap in freezer film to freeze and give the dough a tight kneading after thawing. beat the butter and sugar together untilsmooth and z5og butter. 3 Sift the ftour and salt together. then knead lightly by hand. -'. l<nead the pastry again very tightty. Divide into 3 or 4 batches and wrap in cling film. Leave to rest in the refrigerator for 3o minutes before rolling out. graduatty add the eggs. don't over-worl< it. Flour: breads. add the 3-4 vanilla pods z large free-range eggs. softened to room temperature 18og caster sugar creamy. z With the machine running on slow speed. but not ftuffy. For best results. stop the machine.pite SUCree This is one of the standard pastries we use for tarts.

wrap in cting fitm and chitt for about 3o minutes. stir I teaspoon fine sea salt your in the nuts and flour and mix to a smooth soft dough. f92 Ftour: breads. beat together the butter. Gas 4. light crisp biscuits like these have many applications in our desserts. Return to the oven and bal<e for another 5 minutes or untiI pale golden. if you can resist nibbling your way through the freeze them and remove a few at a time as entire batch. using a 5-6cm cutter. lift on to the bal<ing sheet and place a second heavy bal<ing sheet on top. That is. icing sugar and salt untit tight and ftuffy. Ptace the dough between the parchment sheets and rotl out to a rcm thicl<ness. They witl keep crisp for up you need them. return to the oven for a minute or so to soften. We sit to a week in an airtight tin' or you can accompany ice creams. When coot. Hotding the edges of the paper. so that the dough is sandwiched between both parchment and bal<ing sheets. pastries and cakes . lf the dough starts to harden before you finish cutting. sifted r In a bowt. roasted fruits and fruit compotes. then remove the parchment. each the size of a heavy bal<ing sheet. softened 45g icing sugar. hands. immediatety rounds as you can white the dough is stilt soft. z5g toasted choPPed hazelnuts rz5g plain flour z Tear off two sheets of bal<ing parchment. store the biscuits in an airtight tin. with the top baking parchment stitt dough as thinty as you can. as they are seriously more-tsh' MAKES zo-24 roog unsalted butter. using a palette l<nife. l<neading gently with preheat the Meanwhile. roll the half-baked in bal<ing sheet. and tift off the top 3 Bal<e for 5 minutes. oven to r8ooC. then remove to a heatproof surface ptace. tift these on to a wire tray to cooI and crisp. of course.hazelnut sablds crEme brAEes on them and use them to Thin. cut out as many 4 Remove from the oven and.

Gas 6.banana and rum tatins This is one of the recipes that earned my Head Chef at Claridges. then scrunch into a ba[[ and l<nead lightty untit smooth. but designated for a different role. ro mal<e hatf-moon shapes. Cut the pastry around the bananas. lmmediatety tal<e off the heat and stir in the rum . BoiI to a medium darl< brown carame[. 5 Peel each banana. crEme fraiche. to dust (optional) again. (You may find it easier if you first saturate the sugar with z tablespoons cold water. cream or cr6me fraiche Dried Banana Slices (page 16z. stightty unripe bananas serve: butter with the sugar. Preheat the oven to zoooC. rotI out on a tightty ftoured surface to the thicl<ness of a fr coin. 4 lf using fresh 'virgin'pastry. then wrap and chill to rest. Leave to stand for a minute or so. shal<ing the pan to blend the 3oog Puff Pastry (page r9o) or trimmings (see betow) z large. or 'seconds' as we call them. Cool untiI set. moutd them gently into rectangles. We gather them together. leaving a rcm border atl round. this time more thinty than before. These 'seconds' cook to tight. These trimmings are not discarded. Serve with a scoop of ice cream ptaced on a tF{ ffif. Trickle over the carameliseo pan juices and top with a vanilla fan. pastries and cal<es 193 . 6 When ready to serve. the Chef of the Year zooz award. Dust tightty with icing sugar to serve. place the tin on a heavy bal<ing sheet and cool< in ihe oven for about rz-r5 minutes untitthe pastry is tight gotden brown and crisp. Put the sugar into a heavy-based saucepan and heat very gently untiI it metts. doesn't need to reach the sides. then slide a palette l<nife under each banana and carefully tift and ftip over on to a warmed ptate.) z Add the butter and melt over a medium heat. anci drape the pastry crescents over them. Rest in the fridge for at least 3o minutes. cut-side down. lot of puff pastry and have plenty of trimmings from the first rolting. or accompany with cream or crdme fraiche. and place rounded-side down on the pastry. Mark Sargeant (or Sarge as he is better known). Transfer the bananas to a board. stice in half tengthways. but do not a[low it to burn. it Vanitta Fans (page r58) ice cream. then ptace cut-side down on the set caramet. or roll out trimmings in the same way. or vanilla or rum and raisin ice cream. 3 Pour the caramel into the cast-iron pan or Swiss roll tin and spread with the bacl< of a spoon To to leveI and cover an area that wil[ tal<e the 4 banana halves. crisp pastry that doesn't rise too much - perfect for the above tatins and our ftat tart bases. Serve with cream. Press the pastry to the sides ofthe bananas and trim away any excess. (lllustrated overleaf) SERVES 4 r Have ready a large cast-iron frying pan (suitable for use in the oven) or a Swiss 8og caster sugar 8og butter.-ffi "$ffiflffiffiY we use a dried banana slice for optimum effect. flour: breads. Roll out optionat) icing sugar. in small pieces z tablespoons darl< rum rotl tin.it witt splutter.

and the tatins need to be bal<ed just before serving.: i:ii-:lrtiii :!iLil"l1iil'E-Theingredientsforthisdessertaresimpte-thesecrettiesinthetechnique. Flour: breads. pastries and cakes 195 .{. youwiLt needpuff pastry that crisps but doesn't rise too much.

cover finely grated zest of r lemon 3 tablesPoons desiccated coconut. quarter and sprinl<te the sugar over them' butter in a targe frying pan. trim the overhanging neatty level with the top of the tin' to brush into the ftan case' Mett the remaining butter and use 5 Spoon the apptes each one tike a crumpted tissue' each fito sheet tightty on both sides. resourcefulwithdrystores. stirring occasionatly. coconut and sultanas' Set aside' sheet and bake 'btind'for about r5 minutes' 4 Ptace the ftan tin on a bal<ing Removethepaperorfoitandbeansandreturntheflancasetotheovenfor 5 minutes pastry untiI to cook the base. omit the fito' Beat together desiccatedcoconutandzeggs. pastries and caKes .Thiscomforting.Gas6. Dust with a little more icing sugar VARIATION For a 12og caster sugar' 12og different topping.croustade of aPPle and coconut in the kitchens of of the great and good top chefs' I had a wonderful time Before my formative period in the Paris kitchens suppliers and learnt to be when it snowed hard' we were cut off from our the Hotel Diva.easydessertWascreatedinthosedays. tine with greaseproof paper about rcm overhanging the top edge. located in a ski resort above Nice.Puithesuttanasinabow[. pat dry with kitchen paper' with boiting water and leave for 15 minutes' Drain and hatfthe core the apptes.zminutes.Removefromtheheatandstirinthegrated citrus zests.about:. then cut into r'5cm cubes' Heat tightty toasted about toog filo PastrY sheets icing sugar.Spoonthisontopoftheapplesandbakefor turns golden brown' rz-r5 minutes untitthe topping puffs up stightty and tg6 Ftour: breads.preheattheoventozoooC. scrunching sugar' of the apples to cover them. untitthe apptes caramelised. then rest in the fridge zMeanwhite. with a sharp knife. Pricl< the for 3o minutes' or foit and bal<ing beans.serveitwithCremeAnglaise(pagery)' ideally infused with a few mint leaves' SERVES 6 (Page r9r) 35og Pate 5ucr6e r surface and use to line a zrcm flan Rolt out the pastry thinty on a tightty ftoured roog sultanas 6 Granny Smiths aPPles tin. toss in the apptes and are iust tender and tightty Cool<. to dust 3 Peel.thatisatleastz. then dust with icing Ptace on top the fito topping is crisp and 6 Bal<e the ftan for another rz-r5 minutes untit to serve' golden brown.5cmdeep'Pressthepastrywettintothesidesandleave roog butter 5og demerara sugar finety grated zest of r orange base.

then pass through a sieve. Remove from the oven and brush with the lam gtaze white stitl warm. trim the overhanging pastry untiI neatly tevel with the top of the tin. creamy batter. then unmoutd and slide on to a flat ptate. set aside to cool rz59 ground almonds 1259 caster sugar z5g plain flour 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional) while you mal<e the fitting. ftour. serve warm. stir briefty. rubbing gently with the bacl( of a wooden spoon. spoon into the ftan tin and [eve[ the surface. softened to room temperature edge. As a variation. Pricl< the base. Flour: breads. Using a sharp l<nife.plum and almond tart family size version of the little plum tarts we feature on our dessert menus is ideal for a Sundav lunch. Put the butter. We mal<e up a large batch of this glaze and store it in a screwtopped jar in the fridge ready to use. Leave to coot stightty in the tin. stone if necessary. place in a small bowl and sprinl<le with z-3 tablespoons Armagnac or cognac. firm and golden brown. Press the pastry wetl into the sides and leave about rcm overhanging the top rz59 unsatted butter. then cut each hatf into 4 wedges. then rest in the fridge for zo minutes. line with greaseproof paper or foit and bal<ing beans. then drain. remove the stones. r large free-range egg 3-4 tablespoons apricot or plum jam gtaze (see below) 4 Bal<e the flan for 3o-35 minutes untiI risen. pastries and cal<es 197 . glossy sheen to a home baked tart. 2 Preheat the oven to zoooc. you could use mi-cuit prunes instead of plums. lt is best served freshly baked and warm. ground almonds. and lower the oven setting to r5ooC. placing them sl<in-side up. !1i-L t-: This gives a tempting. VARIATION Instead of the plums. use 6-8 French mi-cuit Agen prunes for the fitting. Remove the paper or foit and beans and return the flan case to the oven for 5 minutes to cool< the base. cut into wedges.5cm deep with a removable base. Gas 5. then drain and use in the same way as the ptum wedges. ripe dark red plums use to [ine a25cm flan tin. Nestte the plum wedges into the mixture. and cut the prunes into quarters. Heat until bubbling.i. 3 For the fitting. hatve the plums.. and egg in a food processor and whiz to a smooth. First soal< them in hot Earl Grey tea to cover for about z-3 hours. cinnamon if using. ptace the tart tin on a heavy bal<ing sheet and bal<e blind for r5 minutes. Simpty warm about 4 tablespoons apricot or plum jam in a small pan with t-z tablespoons water and a squeeze of lemon f . Leave to macerate overnight. etq'" \ ':.n& a' juice untiI the jam melts. that is at least z. sugar. Gas z. SERVES 6-8 This r Rol[ out the pastry on a tightly floured surface to the thicl<ness of a fr coin and 5oog Pite Sucr6e (page r9r) 4 large.

'. 5 Using a pastry brush.passion fruit and orange tart fruity taste. A thin whisper of dork chocolate lines the tart case. Stand the flan tin on a bal<ingsheet and place on the middle shetf of the oven. spread the chocolate eventy and thinly over the base and up the sides of the pastry case. break up the chocotate and mett in a small heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. then rest in the fridge for zo minutes. but stil[ runny. ideally white the pastry is stitt stightty warm. Serve cut into wedges. SERVES 6-8 This tart is an elegant variation of the classic French tarte au citron.fif. set aside to coo[. then carefully unmould and cut into wedges. light caramelised finish. Pass through a sieve into jug. Set aside to cool and lower the oven setting to r5ooC. dust the chiLted tart with a light even layer of sifted icing sugar. ideatty to a 3mm thicl<ness. puttingthe shelf out as far as it is safe to do. adding a hint of contrasting flavour. Allow the chocolate to cooI until tepid. The fitting witt continue to firm up as it cools. For an intensely r Hatve the passion fruit. 3 Stand the ftan tin on a bal<ing sheet and bal<e blind for r5 minutes. 35og Pdte Sucr6e (page r9r) 4og darl< chocolate 25og caster sugar z Rol[ out the pastry as thinty as possible. then immediately caramelise by waving a cook's blowtorch over the surface. it also helps to prevent the creamy passion fruit filling softening the pastry. Bring to the boiI and boit until reduced by hatf. simpty pinch the dough together to mend the cracks. sugar.ffiH'"fl ro. beat the reduced fruit juice. cream and eggs together in bowl untiI smooth. scoop outthe putp into a saucepan and add the orange a 6 ripe. Lift it on the rolling pin into a 2r-22cm ftan tin that is about zcm deep with a removabte base. Carefutty push the oven shelf and tart bacl< into the oven and bake for 35-4o a flffi#f. Pricl< the base. 6 For the fitting. line with greaseproof paper or foil and bal<ing beans. wrinl<[ed passion fruits 35omI fresh orange juice luice. Florr: breads. 4 Meanwhile. rubbing with the bacl< of a wooden spoon to extract the juice from the passion fruit seeds. Press the pastry well into the sides and leave about rcm overhanging the top edge. Pour the fitting into the case until it reaches the top.S 5 . Gas 6. You should have around z5om[. Don't worry if the pastry cracl<s as zoomI double cream 6 medium free-range eggs you press it in.u minutes until the top forms a light crust and appears to be tightty set. Meanwhile. Gas z. although it may stitt be stightty soft in the centre. I first boil the passion fruit juice and orange to reduce and concentrate the flavour. with a scoop of vanilla ice cream if you like. Remove the paper or foit and beans and return the flan case to the oven for 5 minutes untiI the base is pate golden and crisp. 7 Carefutty remove the tart from the oven and a[[ow to cool. preheat the oven to zoooC. Chitt untit ready to serve. carefulty trim the overhanging pastry until neatly [eve[ with the top ofthe tin. Using a sharp l<nife. on a tightty ftoured surface. Attow to coot and set. or in the microwave on medium for about z minutes. then strain through a sieve into a lug. pastries and cal<es 199 .

then cut on cooling. mix in 5og finety grated mature Cheddar or Parmesan and I teaspoon powdered Engtish mustard and sprinkte the tops with a tittle more grated cheese before baking. shape and bake. ffffiffi g4'S Tfr ffi ro save time. 2OO Flour: breads. spilt and buttered . Pour about three quarters into the flour mixture and quicl<ty mix together with a [arge table l<nife. z In another bowt. Add the butter in tittte pieces and rub it in using the tips of your fingers and tifting the flour up high so you aerate it. pat the dough into a 2. To check that the scones are ready. when the butter is incorporated the mixture should look to dust 5og sultanas like fine breadcrumbs. softened r tablespoon caster sugar.with or without clotted cream and homemade strowberry iam. Do not over-mix r large free-range egg roomI ice-cold milk. while stilt warm' VARIATIONS Omit the sultanas and add r teaspoon ground cinnamon or mixed spice to the ftour. omit the sugar and sultanas. Bake for about z5 minutes. pastries and cal(es . lightty squeeze the sides of one . Line a bal<ing sheet with bal<ing parchment. beat the egg with the mitl<. brush the tops with mitl< and sprinl<te tightty with extra sugar. Or. plus extra to glaze . Scones ore always best eaten fresh MAKES 8-ro oven. keeping the edges straight. Using a 6cm cutter.5cm thicl<ness. for savoury scones. Stir in the caster sugar. yet still rise beautifully. Homemade ones are than is usual very little time to mix the dough.the dough shoutd be springy. then cut into squares. press out as many rounds as you can. z5og self-raising flour 1 r Preheat the oven to r8ooc. Gas 4. Eat the scones within an hour or so of bal<ing. I find that baking scones at a lower temperature and warm from the ensures that they remain soft on the outside. adding extra egg and mill< mix as necessary to give a soft but not sticl<y dough.5cm thicl< round and score the top into 8 wedges. simply pat the dough out to a 2. plus extra z sift the ftour.the quicl<er and tighter the mixing the higher your scones will rise' gentty roll with a rolting 3 Tip the dough on to a tightty ftoured surface and very pin or pat out with your fingers to a 2-2. pat it out. teaspoon baking Powder good pinch offine sea salt 45g unsalted butter. Alternatively.perfect scones so much better and it takes t despair that so many people have only ever tosted mass produced scones. Bake for zo-25 minutes untiI risen and gotden brown.5cm thick square with your hands. then the suttanas. stide off on to a wire rack and coot. baking powder and salt together into a large bowt. Gentty re-shape and tightty roll the trimmings to cut out a couple more rounds if you can' 4 Place the rounds on the tined baking sheet.

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bake the mixture in a Swiss roll tin and cut out small rounds to sandwich with crushed fruits and whipped cream. Melt att the butter untit just runny and cool untiI tepid. Atternatively. to dust summer berries. Beat. sandwich together with whipped cream ftavoured with stocl< Syrup infused with lemon grass (page 164) and crushed raspberries' 2O2 Flourr breads. VARIATIONS Bake the mixture in a lined and greased deep z5cm round cal<e tin for 5o-6o flfi"{ffifl-S ffiffiilffiffiT Li' minutes.of-eight motion gentty incorporate into the mixture. Preheat the oven to r6ooc. bal<e the mixture in a shattow Swiss rotl tin for cake has a rich buttery flavour with a light sponge texture. Use an electric mixer with a whisk attachment if you have one. pastries and cakes . sptit and fitt with cream and crushed fruits. with summer berries and whipped cream. ud5 J. Alternatively. about zo minutes. ptus rog extra to grease tin r Finety grate the zest from the lemons and set aside. then dust with icing sugar to serve. then dust tiberatty with ftour and tap out the excess. plus extra to dust 2 z Use r tablespoon of the melted butter to grease a zzcm l<ugelhopf ring mould. or untit a skewer inserted in the middle comes icing sugar. until pale gotden and thicl< enough to leave a traitwhen the beaters are [ifted. and add them to the sugar. Sift together the ftour and baking powder' 3zog plain flour. Pour the cream and runny butter down the sides of the bowt and. then remove the tin and leave to cool completety. This may tal<e up to ro minutes' teaspoons bal<ing Powder 5 medium free-range eggs 35og caster sugar r vanilla pod r5omI singte cream serve: To 4 Remove the bowt from the mixer and gentty fotd in the ftour and lemon zest. After cooting. such as strawberries and raspberries whipped cream out clean. trim the edges and cut out rounds. SERVES ro 4 large unwaxed lemons. After cooling. retaining as much of the volume as possible. which can be used in a variety of to slice and fill deep tin a round different occasions. 6 Invert on to a wire racl< and leave to coolwith the tin over the cal<e for ro minutes. then carefutly folding in melted runny butter and cream to keep the mixture light. you can bake it in Madeleine trays or bun tins. this is a truly nulti-purpose cake mixture. using a whisk attachment. using a large metal spoon. using a figure. Dust with sifted icing sugar and serve in thin wedges. Or. you can bake it in a kugelhopf mould (a fluted tin with a funnel centre) or with whipped crEme fraiche. pod open' 3 Put the eggs and sugar into an etectric mixer bowl. achieved bY whisking eggs and sugar vigorously to incorporate as much air as possible. scrubbed roog butter.lemon and vanitta kugethopf ways to suit Similar to a classic Genoese sponge. bake in the centre of 5 Gentty scoop the mixture into the prepared cal<e tin and the oven for 5o minutes to t hour. to serve as a dessert. The top shoutd be springy when pressed and the cal<e witl have started to come away very stightty from the edge of the tin. Stit the vanilla scrape out the seeds using the tip of a sma[[ sharp knife.

Beat in the eggs. Grease a rkg toaftin and tine the base with baking parchment.s tasty carrot cake. 5o. the top shoutd feeI quite firm when pressed. pastries and cal<es 2O3 . Leave the cake in the tin untit att the syrup is absorbed. finely grated zest ofr large orange z medium free-range eggs sultanas. untiI smooth. breads. untit tight and creamy. then tip in the bran from the sieve if it won't rub through. coconut and chopped walnuts. Serve cut into thicl< stices. gentty heat the orange luice with the remaining sugar and lemon juice in a smalt saucepan untit the sugar is dissolveo. Ptace on a wire racl< and leave to coot comptetelv. Not only is it easy to make and bake. The crust needs to be well punctured with a skewer to enable the syrup to soak in. store in an airtight cal<e tin untit required. vitamins and minerals. then turn out and remove the base paper. Stand the tin on a uog sultanas 5og desiccated coconut 5og chopped walnuts iuice heavy baking sheet and bake for r hour zo-25 minutes. 3 Turn the mixture into the prepared toaf tin and tevet the top. Meanwhite. sift the ftour. Also. using a large etectric mixer or by hand. Pricl< hotes a[ over the surface with a skewer. rich carrot cake This wonderfully moist cake from the connaught repertoire takes me back to my childhood and memories of my mother. Run a knife around rne edges of the cake to loosen it. of/z large orange r tablespoon lemon juice f H=F-S T$ffi Rouringa citrus syrup over this cake as it cools makes it more moist and imparts a tangy flavour. you should have around zoog. this one. Mum. one by one. insert a metal skewer . Fotd in the sifted ftour mixture until smooth. spice and bicarbonate of soda together. Gas z. z Beat r75g of the sugar with the oil and orange zest.dark. peel and coarsety grate the zoog plain wholemeal flour r tablespoon ground mixed spice r teaspoon bicarbonate ofsoda 2259 carrots z5og soft darl< brown sugar 15oml sunflower oil carrots. 4 To checl< that the cake is cooked. Set aside.s for youl SERVES 8-ro r Preheat the oven to r5ooc.it shoutd come our clean. tnen stowly drizzte over the orangey syrup so it seeps into the holes and round the edges. it is really healthy being dairy free and high in fibre. then finalty fold in the grated carrot.

Rotloutonatighttyfloured surfacetothethicknessofafrcoin. Rub in the butter untit the mixture resembles centre' Pour in the yeasty in the remaining caster sugar. and l<itchen paper for heat to r8ooc.Mixtoadoughandshapeinto a batt with Your hands' surface for about 8 minutes untit the dough is 5 Knead on a tightty ftoured the dough to coat in the smooth and elastic.thenkneaduntilsmooth. but serve stit[ warm so the chocolate 2O4 Flour: breads. hatf-fil[ a deep saucepan or sugar. Coverthe bowt with ctingfitm doubled in size. These littte brioche as a chic dessert or treat with coffee' MAKES zo-24 centre and oozes out as you bite into them. pastries and cakes . Have ready a shatlow bowl of caster draining. for deeP-frYing mill< and a the brioche dough.Drainonkitchenpaperforaminute. Deep-fry the fitted dough batts. 7 deep-fat fryer with oil and When ready to serve. Ptace in an oited [arge bowt and turn and teave in awarm place untitthe dough has oi[.pressout40-48 (see below)' Rest in the rounds. sift the flour and satt fine breadcrumbs.thentossinthesugarto centre is stitt metted' coat. re-rotting if necessary and shape the ravioti fridge for 15 minutes. until metted and smooth. Remove and cool. Coo[ stightty. Ptus extra to dust 4oog strong Plain flour 2 teaspoons fine sea satt 4og unsatted butter z medium free-range eggs. beaten vegetable oi[. then it steady. Place over a pan of untit sotid. whisk the granutes into the mitk pinch of sugar and set aside until it starts to froth' into a targe bowt' set on a damp ctoth to hotd 4 Meanwhite. about 4-6 at a time' for r'l minutes untitgotdenbrown. then chitt zUsingasmaltmelonbalter. 6Knocl<bacl<thedough. Quite divine Ganache filling: r First mal<e the ganache.usinga5or6cmcutter.scoopoutzo-z4baltsofganache. if using fresh yeast mix with the tepid with a pinch of the sugar' lf using dried yeast. Break up the chocolate and ptace in a heatproof bowl 8og dark chocolate (6o% cocoa sotids) 4og unsalted butter 3 tablespoons double cream Brioche dough: gentty simmering water and stir with the butter and cream.chocolate truffle ravioti melts in the 'doughnuts' are filted with a chocolate ganache' which Brioche dough is highty versatile.theydon'tneed to be perfect spheres. Mal<e a wett in the mix mitkandattbutztablespoonsofthebeatenegg. Chitt untit required' 3 To mal<e rog fresh yeast or z teaspoons dried active Yeast r5omI tePid milk z5g caster sugar.

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MAKES ABOUT z LTTRES I to give fish and seafood a subtle piquancy. tarragon. lobster ond crab. r celery sticl<. lt imparts flavour and acidity find it is worth the time to make up a court bouillon for simple poaching because of the added value in terms of flavour. roughly chopped r large onion. roughly chopped z medium shatlots. z leeks.court boui[[on A court bouillon is a poaching liquor used for whole fish. lt can be kept. in the fridge for up to 3 days. sliced r star anise zoomI dry white wine zo8 Stocks. sauces and dressings . Add the rest of the ingredients. I teaspoon white peppercorns rog rock salt r lemon. 3 Cool the tiquor untess using straightaway. bulb. /. chopped 3 gartic cloves (unpeeted) r large sprig each thyme. basil and parsley. Bring to the boit. tied together z litres water covered. roughly chopped z Strain the court bouillon through a colander tined with wet mustin into a deep bowl. roughly chopped r Put all the vegetables and gartic into a large stocl< pot with the bunch of herbs and cover with the cotd water. return to a simmer and cool< gently for about 3o minutes. or frozen. fennel. Discard the vegetabtes and flavo urings. roughly chopped 2 carrots.

sliced teaspoon white peppercorns undisturbed for ro minutes so the partictes settle. or give him notice to put some aside for you.. you will need around 15kg' lf turbot or sole aren't possibilities.f. This is simply due to fish proteins and is quite harmtess. Turn offthe heat and Leave 5 Turn I I lemon. t would say. you can boirthe strained stocr< down to about r litre to concentrate the flavour. even if you are not buying sole or turbot at the time. rf you are not using the stocr< straightaway. choose sole or turbot bones.fish stock flavoured fish stock with a light colour. chopped 1 z Put all the vegetables into a stocl< pot with the olive oit. o. Rinse away any blood from bacl<bones under cold running water. but not oity fish like salmon. rf it hetps. [emon and peppercorns. chopped i5 minutes. tied together spoon so it does not mal<e the stocl< cloudy. if possibte. as this might give the stocl< a bitter taste. However. T. sauces and dressings 2Og . frF{ mistake it fo_r chicken or vegetable flavours. then heat until thev start to sizzte.igit 5tocl<s.: gF-$ YFF mur. Don. uncovered. 4 As the tiquid boits gentty you wilt note a scum forms. boil to concenrrate and . Ask your fishmonger if he has any to spare. 6 Line a large colander with wet mustin and set over a targe bowl or smaller pan.l. then chop the head in hatf. for zo minutes no [onger or the stocl( may acquire a bitter taste from the bones. add the herbs. shal<ing the pan occasionally. cover with a tid and sweat gentty over a low heat for about celery sticl<. Unsalted stock should keep in the freezer for up to 3 months. coorthen chilt. Atternativety. we sl<im it off with a wide sl<imminc rooml tight olive oi[ (not extra virgin) 3ooml dry white wine z [itres water z sprigs each thyme and parstey. rfusingthe head ofa [arge fish. You should have about r. and bring to the boit over a medium high heat.5 litres. about r. Now pour in the water. Roughty chop the bones so they witt fit into the pan. remove the larger bones first with a slotted spoon. Avoid using the skin too. chopped z garlic cloves (unpeeled) untilthe wine evaporates almost totalty away. the heat down and simmer. for true soups or fish velout6s. Gentty tip the tiquid through the mustin.5l<g white fish bones and heads r leel<. plus heods.5 LTTRES fish For a fine r Prepare the bones and heads. 5oomlcontainers.t forget to fuU. chopped r onion. Fish stock is essential. you can use the bones of other white fish. 3 Stir in the fish bones and wine and cook /zfennel butb. Vuu . MAKES ABour r. remove the eyes and gills. a batch of stock.j:.

:x'.:l'""'' tu rn i ill.il:'Jl. Discard a[[ the debris. We make chicken stock using fresh chicken carcasses delivered daily to the restaurants.chicken stocl< This is a good multi-purpose stock. Light chicken stock is used in soups and creamy veloutds. Coot.H:" n g on ce or twice u nti r n ice rv 27o Stocl(s. frKffi ru we use this stock to give a sauce some depth of flavour and a light cotour.. sauces and dressings . but we also use a dark (or brown) chicken stock for pork. roughty chopped /z head gartic (unpeeted) r large thyme sprig into a large bowt. skim off any white scum. 3 Strain the stocl< through a colander tined with wet mustin z leel<s. roughly chopped z Add the chopped vegetables to the pan along with the garlic and thyme.l'J. then turn down the heat to a gentle simmer and cool<. lt is made in the same way as light chicken stock except that the carcasses are first roasted in a hot oven.T. return the tiquid to the pan and continue boiting untiI reduced by hatf. sl<imming occasionally if necessary.l llfJil J:.ilJ:i. you can buy packs of cheap fresh chicken wings.lill:'. lamb and game bird dishes. MAKES z LITRES zkg raw chicken carcasses or bony chicl<en joints (such as wings or r Put the chicl<en carcasses into a stock pot. Return to the boil. roughty chopped z [arge carrots. lf you want a stronger stock. roughly chopped z onions. lnstead. Follow the ffi#Wru STffieK ffi i:. coverwith the water and bring to the boit. Using a slotted spoon. chitt and use within 3 days.J[::"J:T:ffJJl. ffi fl F$f. backs) 4 litres cold water 3 celery sticl<s. but I appreciate these are not always available to home cooks.l. uncovered for about 3 hours. or freeze in 5oomI quantities. This gives a depth of colour and flavour without an over-meaty fdsfe.

Alternatively. tt isn't simply made by boiling all the ingredients together. lnfusion is the secret. tied together to labet the containers. yet full flavoured sauces. Cover and infuse in the fridge for z4 hours or so. thyme. MAKES ABOUT r. zooml dry white wine Stocks. then strain through a muslin-[ined colander into another jug or bow[. roughly chopped leaf and star anise into a large saucepan or stock pot with the water. remembering z [itres cold water r sprig each tarragon. roughly chopped '/. garlic. lemon. lower the heat and simmer for r leek. freeze in smaller amounts.5 LITRES r Put att the vegetables. basil. This is the stock we use for our vegetarian dishes and light vegetable soups. Bring to the boit. peppercorns. roughty chopped ro minutes. then fresh herbs are added and the nage is Ieft to infuse for a good day before straining. sptit in hatf r lemon. sauces and dressings 217 . roughly chopped 6 carrots. Occasionally I combine vegetable nage with some fish or light chicken stock in a sIuce. Keep covered in the fridge for up to 3 days untit ready to use.vegetabte nage This vegetable stock is one of the secrets of our light. z Remove the pan from the heat. parsley and chervi[. teaspoon white peppercorns 1f teaspoon pink peppercorns r small bay leaf 4 star anise jug or other suitable container and tip in att of the tiquid. Coo[ to atlow the vegetabtes and herbs to infuse the tiquid with their delicate flavours. 3 Spoon the cooted vegetables and flavourings into a large r head of garlic. coriander. bay 3 onions. The vegetables are simmered briefly. roughly chopped z celery sticks. push in the bouquet of herbs and stir in the wine.

Deglaze with the wine and vermouth. This is why I always Season a sauce at the end. It should by now be smooth and glossy. lf desired. strip the leaves from another smatI thyme sprig and stir these into the sauce . Vegetabte Nage (page zn) zoomI double cream zoomlsingle cream sea salt and freshly ground white pepper THYME VELOUTE Use vegetable nage and proceed as above. then boiI for about 7 minutes untiI reduced by hatf. or vegetable nage depending on the recipe. Season to taste. This sauce gets its depth of flavour by boiling down the wine. MAKES ABOUT 5ooml rog butter 3 shaltots. z Pour in the stocl< or nage.velout6 A good veloutd requires fresh stock . and continue to boil until reduced by hatf.iust before serving. sauces and dressings . finely chopped r Heat the butter in a wide saucepan. wine. then strain the sauce through a fine sieve. 3 Now add the two creams. stirring. stir in the shailots then saut6 gently for about r5 minutes untit softened but zooml dry white wine zooml Noilly Prat or dry vermouth 4oomI Fish Stock (page zo9). Occasionally we whisk in a knob of ice cold butter to give the seuce e sheen. Chicl<en Stock (page zro) or not coloured. bring back to a gentle boit and simmer untiI the sauce is the consistency of pouring cream. '$-fi 272 Stocl(s. stock and cream in stages. adding 3 targe thyme sprigs with the stock. return to the boil. #fufi ffi ffi-ffi ffi vou witt find that even fresh vegetabtes.use chicken or fish stock. bones and herbs used to make stocks and sauces have some natural salty flavour and this will be concentrated by boiling and reducing.

pour the red wine into a wide shallow pan and boiI 75ct bottte red wine z tablespoons olive oil 4 targe shatlots. but we also use them for chicken dishes ond. z Heat the otive oiI in another pan and saut6 the shaltots for 5 minutes untit they soften and start to caramelise. nonkfish or turbot. Carefutty sl<im off any scum or fat from ihe surface using a ladle. then add the five spice powder. Resist the temptation to use a cheap red wine.reo wrne sauce with red meats. you can use either fish stock or light chicken stock as the base . 4 Stowty pour the hot tiquid through a sieve Iined with wet muslin. l teaspoon five spice powder rz blacl< peppercorns r thyme sprig r sma[[ bay teaf r tablespoon sherry vinegar 75omt tight Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) or Fish Stocl< (page zo9) sea salt and freshly ground blacl< 3 Now add the reduced wine and the stock. Depending on the intended purpose. about zooml. Bring to the boil and boit rapidty for about ro-r5 minutes until reduced by half. peppercorns. certain full flavoured fish like salmon. sauces and dressings 213 . then season to taste. Repeat this process once more to ctarify the sauce even further. then degtaze with the sherry vinegar. Red wine sauces are usually associated T' Freeze any sauce that you don't need now for later use. MAKES 4ooml r First. thyme and bay teaf.both work well. Cool< for another 5 minutes. sticed down untiI reduced by three quarters to a rich syrupy liquid. pepper Stocl(s. o medium quality Cabernet Sauvignon or softer Merlot wine will give a far better resulf. surprisingly perhaps.

Bring to the boit and boiI untiI reduced by hatf. MAKES ABOUT rTomt pan 'jus'from cooking a steal<. chicl<en joint or fish fitlet r Put the roasting tin (or other pan the meat or fish has been cool<ed in) on the hob over a low heat. but you don't need to open a bottle especially. Checl< the seasoning and pour through a sieve into a jug. Add the olive oit. finely chopped r thyme sprig l teaspoon white wine or red wine vinegar r glass (about r75ml) red or white wine about r5omI fresh stock. use a bought tub of fresh stock. sauces and dressings . shattot and thyme. z Deglaze the pan with the vinegar.pan f us gravy This is a quick sauce using the natural jus (or pan juices) from cooked meat. l teaspoon boui[lon r tablespoon crAme fraiche or double cream sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 274 Stocks. lf you haven't any homemade stock to hand. 3 Now add the stocl<. poultry or fish. The jus is enriched with a glass of wine. and cool( gentty. stirring to scrape up the sediment. then pour in the wine. for about 3 minutes until softened. Whisk in the crdme fraiche or cream and cool< for another minute or so. a splash of Noilly Prat from the storecupboard will do. or water mixed with powder third. return to the boit and reduce by a r-z tablespoons otive oil r shallot.

Puilsts would use a pestle and mortar. Stocks. feed in the basiI leaves through the chute. fragrant basll. sauces and dressings 275 . so we can easily swirl it on to plates of pasto. flHffiF-S TBF rrestr pestowilt keep better in a screw-topped jar if you pour a thin layer of olive oil over the surface before refrigerating.shame to spoil good olive oil and fresh. Or if you tike. soups. peeled and roughly chopped 5og Parmesan cheese. seal and store in the fridge for up to r week. then slowly trickte in the olive oit. finely grated processor and whiz until you have a fine crumbly mixture. thin the pesto rzoml extra virgin olive oil with 3-4 tablespoons cold water or vinaigrette and pour into a plastic bottte with a squirty top before refrigerating for up to r week. Pine nuts soon turn rancid. etc. often thinning it down with vinaigrette or water and decanting it into a'squirty' plastic bottle. but we make pesto in a blender or food processor. MAKES ABOUT 3ooml r Place the pine nuts. Process until you have a smooth pur6e. garlic and Parmesan in a fooo 5og pine nuts 5og gartic cloves.classic pesto We make fresh pesto to use as garnish. so buy fresh ones rather than use o pack you find lurking at the back of a cupboard . z With the motor stit[ running. 3og basil leaves 3 Spoon the pesto into a screw-topped iar.

For a milder flavour. according to taste in the oil as it heats. then add the remaining oit and continue as above. then remove. You can also use them in vinaigrette dressings. Then add the remaining oit and heat for another z minutes. There is no need to use extra virgin olive oil for oil will suffice. fat gartic cloves in a little of the olive oil to cover for z minutes. VARIATIONS Rosemary Wash 3-4 sprigs of fresh rosemary. tnfused oils add instant flavour and richness with littte effort. this takes about 3 minutes. lt is important to heat the oil to at least 9o"C to destroy any airborne bacteria in herb sprigs and other flavourings. Then carefully pour in the heated oit. Add the remaining oil and heat for another z-3 minutes. .herb oils I love to infuse olive oit with herbs and other flavourings to trickle over hot vegetables or grilled fish. Gartic Saut6 about 8 peeled. Try combining chitti with 4 gartic ctoves. but do not atlow to burn. deseed the chitties before sticing. dry and proceed as above. You can store the oit in the fridge. seal immediatety and coo[. diluted half and half with pure olive oil. pure grade olive cycle or heating it in a warm oven for rc minutes. Saut6 in 4 tablespoons of the above quantity of otive oit for z-3 minutes until iust softened. dry and proceed as above' Red pepper Core. chicken and chargrilled vegetables. MAKES z5omt 3og basiI sprigs. Leave on the heat for r minute. deseed and slice a medium red pepper. then pat dry between kitchen paper or spin in a salad sPinner. then bottle and seal white hot. including stalks z5om[ pure olive oil (not extra virgin) r wash the basit sprigs under cold running water. or stice 3-4 targe fresh chilties and tightty saut6 in 3 tabtespoons of the otive oit. chitti Infuse a-6 whote dried chitties. pushing them down with a sl<ewer or chopsticl<. It is also a good idea to ensure the bottle is sterilised first either by putting it through a dishwasher infusions. 3 Lift the basitsprigs into a ctean. This takes z-j minutes over a medium heat and does not affect the flavour of the oil. Store in a cooI ptace out of direct sunlight. Continue as above.this doesn't affect the flavour. Sage Wash a good handfut offresh sage leaves. but expect it to go cloudy . Add the basil and stir gently untitwitted. r z Heat the otive oit gentty in a medium pan over a moderate heat to about gooc. Continue as above. sterilised bottle.

hazelnut and walnut oils can be very aromatic.ytt'. New potatoes. though it is quite strong. Rice wine vinegar is lighter and slightly sweeter. are often over tossed in a vinaigrette flavoured with chopped fresh herbs while still warm. but use sparingly . I teaspoon Maldon sea salt. z Pour the vinaigrette into a clean bottle or jar and store in the fridge. But I also drizzle vinaigrette dressings grilled fish. incLude a little cider vinegar.vinaigrette We use vinaigrettes to dress a variety of dishes. Another spanish vinegar. spanish sherry vinegar is one of my favourites. chicken and even sliced pan-fried liver and steaks. you can replace part of either oil with a nut oil. though you might like to experiment with different vinegars shake betow). or to taste z tablespoons white wine vinegar Mustard and honey dressing Add 3 teaspoons coarse grain mustard with 1 teaspoon clear honey. Chopped chervit. for example. oil in my dressings than most classic recipes. Aged balsamic vinegar wilt impart a special character. iust add a scant teaspoon of ptain Diion mustard (no honey). A quality white wine vinegar is fine. replace some or a[ of the white wine vinegar. not just salads. sauces and dressings . varying the oil and vinegar to suit the particular dish. The base should always be q medium flavour pure or extra virgin olive oil. Add about r tablespoon chopped herbs to each roomI of dressing. Herb dressing Chopped fresh herbs can be added to the vinaigrette at the tast minute before serving . mixed with a more neutral oil such as groundnut or sunflower oil. ftavour with a hint of apple. shal<e each time you use it. simply because too much vinegar can (see overpower o dish. crushed '/a teaspoon freshly ground white or VARIATIONS black pepper r tablespoon lemon iuice. ffiffiffiSSfi*ru## rouu. citrus hint. 'WqffiffiffidtffiS fr#ffi. Or for a vinaigrette with a subtte mustard flavour. so a teaspoon is enough to lend a mellow flavour.not before as the bright green colour wi[[ turn to grey on storage. pasta and couscous. I also add fresh lemon juice for a fruity. chives and parsley are a[[ excellent in a dressing.ofwine vinegar and grape iuice that's almost syrupy and good enough to sip neat from a spoon' zt8 Stocks. I use proportionally less vinegar to or whisk before each use. Make a good quantity of vinaigrette and store in the fridge. MAKES ABOUT z5oml rooml extra virgin olive oil roomI groundnut oil r Put att the ingredients into a lug or bowt and whisk together until emutsified. forvm agridulce de Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend. or for a fulter.e rLavour.

lt should re-emutsifY' Stocks. the best organic eggs available' Note that raw egg yolks are used choose mayonnaise to each t tablespoon vinaigrette. wine vinegar. pepper to taste' a baltoon whisk' beat wetl Stand this on a damp ctoth to hotd it steady' Using of oit from the tip of a until smooth and creamy. Whisk another egg yotk in a seParate bowl with a pinch each of salt. steady stream' making you witl achieve a thicl< incorporated before you add any more' This way mayonnaise. whisl<in g vi goroustY' z free-range organic egg Yotks l teaspoon white wine vinegar % teaspoon sea salt then slowly increasing the z Continue to whisl< in the oit drop by drop at first' sure each addition is wetl amount you add to a stow. until soft but not browned' herbsandwhizinabtenderorfoodprocessoruntitsmoothandcreamy. are unluckY enough to find your mayonnaise does sptit. Add r thyme sprig and about ro minutes' Remove the stirring once or twice. Now tricl<te in a few drops teaspoon.Pass spoon' Coo[' then stir into the though a sieve rubbing with the bacl< of a wooden mayonnaise and check the seasoning' flffi ilS'S 'F!F rrvo. superior to anything you can buy' lt uses egg yolks to stsbilise the emulsion and always - Whiskingamayonnaisebyhandwillgivethebestresult. and cold water to stabilise the emulsion' Taste 3 Finatty.usinglWhole is running' The mayo will be adding the oil through the chute while the motor egg and t yolk rather than z yolks. salt.mayonnaise A freshly made mayonnaise is far using at [east 2 tablespoons you can righten a thick mayonnoise with vinaigrette. remains thick and spoonabre.Put with 4-5 tabtespoons olive oil z finety chopped targe red peppers in a saucepan l tarragon sprig and cool< gently' and heat untit sizzting. sauces and dressings 279 .Makeupthemayonnaise(asabove)andsetaside. tnen crush and stir into the gritted Mediterranean Red pepper mayonnaise This is superb with fish' such as redmuttetorseabass. PePPer ano mustard. add r-z tabtespoons adiust the seasoning if necessary' freshly ground white or btack pepper 1 teaspoon English mustard Powder olive oit 3ooml groundnut oil or tight (not extra virgin) VARIATIONS btanch in boiling water tor Garlic mayonnaise Peet 3-4fatgartic ctoves and finished mayonnaise' 1 minute or so. and slowly paler in colour and a little more runny' MAKES ABOUT 3oomt 1 Put and mustard into a bowt' the egg yotls. then whisk in the sPtit mixture.butyouCanuseablenderorfoodprocessor. try this remedy. rf required.

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.thenremoveand setaside'Heat5ogbutterinaSaucepanuntiIfoaming.thick'fleshystalkstoppedwithcrispdarkgreenleaves'Asthe chard is often used to make a creamy cook.rcmthic|<.washthechardwettandcutthepalegreen lf with a V-shaped cut at the point where they ioin' statl<s from the leaves necessary'peetthestat|<stightty. untit you have a smooth.Btanchthechardsta[|<batonsintheboitingwaterfor5minutes.

'unpeeled) on a bed of rock salt in a foil parcel. Wearing a pair of thin rubber gloves (to avoid staining your hands). Remove. or at room temperature. Cook them my way to bring out their full flavour - bake whole . (lllustrated overleaf) SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r Preheat the oven to r8ooC. zoog rocl< salt z Lay a large sheet of foit on a bal<ing sheet and spread the rocl< satt in the centre. tender baby beetroot have a wonderful earthy taste. Cut each beetroot in hatf verticatly. toss in the beetroot and cook. such as salmon or mackerel. Wash the baby beetroot and trim the tops. When it starts to foam. z-3 thyme sprigs 5og butter 3-4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 3 Bal<e in the oven for about r5-zo minutes until the baby beets are tender. tearing the stems into smatter sprigs. Nestle the beetroot in the rocl< salt and scatter with thyme. uncover and leave to cool stightty. Pat dry. Vegetables 127 I . using a thin-bladed l<nife. peel the beetroot white they are still warm. Gas 4. then peel. Add the balsamic vinegar to deglaze and bubbte untiI reduced and syrupy. cut the beetroot into 1cm thick slices before glazing. buy the smallest fresh beetroot you can find and increase the baking time accordingly. After peeting. 4 Heat the butter in a saut6 pan. Serve warm. I serve the baby beets warm or at room temperature with lamb or oily fish. for a couple of minutes until coated in butter and gtossy. 5oog baby beetroot leaving on a little ofthe teafy stalks and roots. Scrunch the foit and bring the edges together to enctose the beetroot and seat. fl*4 ffi$:-ffi -$-$ffi rr uury beetroot are unavailable.satad of roasted baby beets with balsamic dressing Sweet. turning frequently. saut€ in butter to glaze and dress in good aged balsamic vinegar.

**': .iuicybeets.s t * e' q .ieavingsweet. i-..f o. The skin protects the beetroot concentrate and intensify the ftavour ofthe oee|awavtheskinafterbal<ing.11 i:l't.:j ..4 i .:ri:i"il:it i t ..4 i .:i .i1"" :.* I \. >2 h themoisture'to Bal<ingbeetrootintheirsl<insonabedof saltisagreatwaytodrawoutsomeof sa[ty' As you becoming it prevents fresh and vegetabre.l[simpLyremoveanylracesofrocksalt.f-..you. * a tr rlf Vegetabies 723 .

then putt off att the leaves. Cut a circle of greaseproof paper stightty larger than the diameter of the pan to make a cartouche. Turn the artichol<e on its side and. To test. Using a smatl sharp l<nife. Stir in the remaining vitamin C powder. Snap off the stall<s of the artichokes. As you prepare the artichol<e hearts. 4 Press the cartouche on top so that it fits snugly to the side of the pan. When you buy globe artichokes make sure the leaves OR ACCOMPANIMENT ore plump and glossy. garlic. Vinaigrette (page zB) or Mayonnaise (page zry). z When all the artichol<e hearts are ready. Bring to the boit. I ! 724 Vegetables . SERVES 4 AS A STARTER 2 teaspoons vitamin C powder r Dissotve l teaspoon vitamin C powder in a [arge bowl of (see below) 4 large globe artichokes ice cold water. peppercorns. using a Iarge cool<'s l<nife. Tricl<le over the olive oil and pour in enough cotd water to just cover the hearts. until you reach the purple-cream r thyme sprig inner leaves. find a pan that is large enough to tal<e them in a single layer. lfyou do not have any.it shoutd meet with [ittle resistance. drop them 4 tablespoons olive oil straight into the bowl of acidulated water. 3 Remove the artichol<e hearts from the cold water and add them to the pan with the herbs. peel around the base ofthe heart and trim away the inner leaves. flfr$ ffiP-S T$$e w. Remove from the heat and leave the artichokes in the water until readv to serve. use vitamin c powder (ascorbic acid) to acidulate water for refreshing vegetables [ike artichokes that would otherwise quickly oxidise and turn brown. halved ro white peppercorns ro coriander seeds 1 straight across just above the meaty heart to remove the spiky chol<e. The good thing about vitamin C powder is that it doesn't affect the delicate flavour of artichokes. cut r bay leaf r fat garlic clove. acidulate the water with the juice of r lemon instead. Scrape off any stray wisps of choke with a teaspoon sea salt teaspoon. coriander seeds and salt. then lower the heat and simmer for about zo minutes.fondant of globe artichokes This classic cooking method gives you lovely tender artichoke hearts to serve warm with melted butter. not shrivelled in any way. insert a sl<ewer into the centre of one artichoke heart . You can buy it in small tubs from pharmacists and some Asian food stores.

sill<y texture' 3 Taste and adjust the seasoning. teaspoon salt. adding a tittte pepper if required. I simmer the florets in milk with added herbs. or take '.. herbs and about'/. until smooth. elvety smooth purde. drain after 5-7 minutes.!$q'S 'l $F rn. z Drain the cauliflower and discard the herbs.e dish a stage further as I have here. To counter this.. but it does emit a rather unpleasant aroma when you cook it in the . (To serve the florets whole as a simple accompaniment. fl# mitk in which the cauliflower is cooked can be used to flavour a b6chamet. This purde makes a wonderful base for curry dusted pan-fried fish or scallops. Vegetables 725 &&*d*ii{. adding enough of the reserved mitl< to give a very creamy consistency. and cut into r medium cautiflower 3ooml milk r small bay teaf 'iorets.. You may need to btend the mixture for up to 5 minutes to achieve a really smooth. cooking the cauliflower until really tender then blending to a .) For a pur€e.purde of cauliflower scented with herbs -:uliflower is a versatile vegetable. Serve piping hot. stirring. Bring to the boi[. -:.suol way.. Tip pepper the florets into a btender or food processor. { -. . scraping down the sides a coupte of times. then cover and simmer gentty.se it to make a bdchamel sauce (see below). Place in a saucepan and add the mitl<. serving the florets as a simple accompaniment. discarding the leaves.i!tua. reserving the mitl<. Whiz untilvery smooth. You con strain off the milk and . Make the roux in the usuaI way. cool< r thyme sprig sea salt and freshly ground white ior tz-t5 minutes untitthe cautiftower is very tender. then incorporate the flavoured milk and cook. sERVES 6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r Trim the cauliflower.Mffi }.^ .

The liquid shoutd have reduced to a gtossy gtaze by now. I urge you to try it! Cooked in light. And because it is tender and creamy.allow one per person. cut-side down. tZ6 Vegetabtes . Lr sweet flavour. in cubes zoomI Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) r Cut the lettuces in hatf [engthways. Cover the lettuce I with a butter paper or a scrunched sheet ofwet greaseproof paper. Season and cool< over a r thyme sprig sea salt and freshty ground black medium heat for about z minutes untit tightty caramelised. Cook on a low heat for about 8 minutes. then pepper scatter in the thyme. 3 Graduatty add the butter in pieces and the stocl<. Carefutty wash and pat dry with l<itchen paper. but don't cut off the staU<s. torn into tiny sprigs. z Heat the olive oiI in a saut6 pan.texture.fondue of Little Gem lettuce lfyou have never eaten cooked lettuce. this salad vegetable is surprisingly delicious and makes an excellent accompaniment to poultry and fish. you won't need to make a special sauce or gravy to go with the meal. Braising them in tight stock with butter thereafter enhances the flavour and lends a creamy. are the best choice here . untiI the [ettuce is tender but stitt hotds its shape. SERVES 4 AS AN ACCoMPANIMENT fi 4 Littte Gem lettuces z tablespoons olive oil Z5g butter. buttery stock.g ffi tr-ffi T$ ffi rryins the lettuce halves first in hot otive oil caramelises the outer leaves and gives them a succulent. Attow to stand for 5 minutes before serving. tay the lettuce halves in the pan. * 'ij flF. When it is reatty hot. with their tightly packed leaves. Little Gem lettuce. basting once or twice.

sugar. for this dish malt vinegar lends the appropriate flavour. the amount of sugar and butter can be adiusted to taste . butter and salt. Don't be tempted to use the more refined wine vinegor.I prefer mine sweet ond buttery. coriander seeds and luniper berries in a smatl square of muslin and nestle in the centre ofthe cabbage. then put the tid on. 3 Cover the casserole. lf so. then shred each cabbage quarter as finety as possible. Add the vinegar. so ifthe tid isn't tight-fitting. I teaspoon coriander seeds ro juniper berries freshly ground black pepper giving it a good stir hatfway through cool<ing. Cook for up to 3 hours. Gas r. aromatic flavour. about 5oog z5omI malt vinegar roog demerara sugar rz5g butter. then stir back into the casserole.braised spiced red cabbage with iuniper The simplest cooking techniques are often the best. z Place the cabbage in a large cast-iron casserote. They have a natural affinity with cabbage. yet obligingly retains its texture and colour. strain them into a pan and boil down to reduce untit syrupy. 4 When the cabbage is tender. Tie the star anise. checl< to see if any iuices remain. cover the casserote with foit. Putl off any outer leaves that are damaged or witted. $Ki rutrPffi ffi ffi ffi ffi ffi $ffiS rhese dark blue berries have a sweet. goose and the Christmas turkey. red cabbage is cooked long and slow. Quarter the cabbage and cut out the core. diced r teaspoon sea salt z star anise r Preheat the oven to r4ooC. until the cabbage is tender. tzB Vegetables . Discard the bag of spices and adiust the seasoning before serving. Here. duck. and are often used to flavour rich meat and eame dishes. reminiscent of pine. However. lt can even be made ahead and reheated without loss of flavour. A good seaI is essentiat. This dish is wonderful with roast pork. using a sharp l<nife or mandolin. SERVES 6-8 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r red cabbage.

Serve as a [ight meal' Vegetables 729 . The dish can be prepared ahead and reheated without spoiling' _eleriac may not be the most attractive vegetable. to give a very creamy textured pur6e. dust with curry powder and each on half stice the prawns in hatf tengthways. adding the butter and cream. Finish as above. Set aside. Adiust the seasoning' and 6 Spread hatf the celeriac pur6e over the base of a shallow ovenproof dish grated the cover with hatf the celeriac stices. tift the celeriac rounds from 4 Return the water to the boit. then layer lime or [emon luice. minutes the acidulated water and stide into the boiting water. Here I've cooked it in two ways . about 75og juice of r lemon 6og butter. into z Stand the ceteriac on a board. 5mm thick rounds from each hatf and of cold water acidutated with hatf of the lemon iuice. on its ftat base. SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT ght moin meal.sliced and as a Serve with meat or fish. then sprinl<[e parmesan over the surface. pan of boiting Chop the rest of the ceteriac into smatt.you't[ find it easier to worl( around the circumference of the vegetabte than peeI from top to bottom. cool< to a about 15 minutes untitiust tender. but it has a r preheat the oven to rgooc. Remove with a stotted spoon and transfer blender or food Processor. even dice' Add to a 3 tablespoons double cream Parmesan cheese z tablespoons freshlY grated sea salt and freshtY ground blacl< pepper for salted water with the remaining [emon luice and bring back to the boit. (The dish can be prepared to this point in advance and chitled untiI readY to serve. Gas 5. Trim away r large celeriac. bake in the oven for about r5 minutes or untiI gotden brown on top' thoroughtyhotandbubbting. cut four large. Using a stotted spoon. whiz the diced ceteriac untit smooth. Repeat these layers. or try the varation and serve as a : irde. and cut down the middte ptace in a bowt traro halves. layer of celeriac pur6e. cut the top and base from the ceteriac' then the :eeI away the skin with a swivet peeter . then combined the two to make an original accompaniment. simmer for to-tz so they carefutly slices tender and stitt hotding a good shape. softened 4 tnobbty root ends.Leavetostandfor5minutesbeforeserving' VARIATION toss in Stir-fry z5og peeled tiger prawns untit tender.) 7 To serve. Drain the untit iust stay intact. 5 Meanwhite.celeriac 'lasagne' good flavour.

but it is so easily overcooked. An ideol accompaniment for fish or chicken. heat the remaining sunflower or olive oiI in the pan. I stir-fry the broccoli quickly. lmmediatety remove with a stotted spoon and drain on l<itchen paper. Have ready large bowl of iced water. 13O Vegetables . thinty sticed z tablespoons oyster sauce sea salt and freshly ground blacl< 3 Heat l tablespoon sunflower or olive oit in a frying pan. then add the crisp garlic slivers. about 5oog z tablespoons sunflower or olive oil z fat garlic cloves. r tablespoon sesame oil r onion. together with the sesame oit. One minute it is too hard. Drain and set aside until ready to serve. lmmediately drain the broccoli and tip into the bowl of iced water to refresh. When it is hot. Do not attow to scorch or the garlic wil[ taste bitter. thinty sliced r Cut off the main stalk. the next it is unpalatably limp and watery. add the broccoti ftorets and blanch for z minutes. Add the onion slices and saut6 over a medium heat for about 5 minutes untilsoftened. 5 Add the broccoti ftorets and saut6 until piping hot. 4 When ready to serve. a z Bring a large pan of salted water to the boit. timing from the moment the water returns to the boit. then cut the broccoti into small ftorets. Mix in the oyster sauce. here it is served Chinese style with a controst of crispy garlic slivers. add the pepper garlic slivers and saut6 until golden brown and crispy. When reody to serve.sautded broccoli with crispy garlic and oyster sauce Broccoli is a highly versatile vegetable and very popular. Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately. SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r large head of broccoli. tossing carefully to ensure the florets are not brol<en up. My solution is to blanch the florets briefly in boiling water then immediately refresh them in iced water.

readv to reheat and serve. lt's especially usefuI for fast-cooking green vegetables [ike broccoli. As soon as you drain the vegetables from the boiling water. then drain the vegetables and set aside.by preventing them overcooking. The water can be used again.'i{Fi"*4*t @* +t lifliltrt: Sii"{iht{i rf'rltisanimportanttechniquethathetpstopreservethevibrantcolourandfreshnessofvegetables. All you need is plenty of iced water to hand . immediate[y plunge them into the iced water. Leave for about 5 minutes to cool thoroughty. simply replenish the ice cubes.add 3 good handfuls of ice cubes to a targe bowL of cold water. :i::: :::::: \/aoatzhlo< 1 ?'l .

{ Cl-l EFtS Tl eLanching baby onions in boiling water for 3o seconds t0 1 minute [oosen their sl<ins and mal<e it much easier to peel them. you F find that the onions won't caramelise as successfully if they have been pre-blanchec avoid doing so unLess you are very short of il .. However. for this dish.

until the onions are iust tender.o) or Vegetable Nage (Page zr.carametised baby onions with beetroot ius rich magenta glaze' -ere baby onions. gtaze' 4 Bubbte up the pan juices untiI reduced to a syrupy Return the onions to the pan and heat through. they shoutd still retain a bite. r large fresh beetroot (about z5og) or zoomt bottled beetroot iuice roog butter z5og baby onions or small shallots' peeled few thyme sprigs z Heat the butter in a large saut6 pan. transfer the onions to a dish. Season with salt and pepper as they cook' nage' 3 Pour in the beetroot iuice and stocl( or vegetable further for a uncovered Bring to the boit. strain and pass through a fine sieve so the [iquid is ctear' You 'reed about zoomI juice. then cool< 'f teaspoon sugar rooml Chicl<en Stocl< (page zr. peel them. with the thyme and sugar. add the whole baby onions or shaltots. lf using bottted beetroot juice. Discard the thyme. rather than used merely if you have a iuicer. are cooked in a beetroot ius until they take on a as a flavouring ::en served as an accompaniment in their own right. using raw beetroot. spoon. When it starts to foam. or buy bottled beetroot iuice -gredient. Chop roughty and whiz :hrough your iuicer. wearing thin rubber g[oves to stop your fingers staining. Make your own ius '"om a healthfood shop. Using a stotted 5 minutes.r) sea satt and freshlY ground black pepper stirring occasionatly. vegetables 133 . SERVES 4-6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT I lf using fresh beetroot. turning to coat in the glaze. and cook for about 5 minutes untit tightty carametised. or shallots.

it should one-third fitt the pan. keep moving the parsnip crisps around in the pan with the bacl< of the spoon to ensure an even colour. or untiI smatl cube of day-otd bread dropped into the oil browns in 3o seconds. I think parsnips make the best deep-fried crisps. They go particularly well with venison' beef steaks and game birds. a 3 Deep-fry the parsnip wafers.r li moy prefer to -P:qs4rfiqs@4ffiFE@-'w parsnip crisps Beyond potatoes. As they fry. a handful at a time. SERVES 4 A5 AN ACCOMPANIMENT 4 medium parsnips r Peetthe parsnips. Returr the oit to the correct temperature in between frying each batch. buy maincrop rather than young parsnips. 4 Remove and drain on kitchen paper. vegetable oil for deep-frying. uncovered. then top and tail them. A light dusting of curry salt makes them irresistible. heavy saucepan. you'll also need a swivel vegetable peeler. about 5oomI about r teaspoon curry salt (see right) mandolin or. but you omit this if serving the crisps as an accompaniment rather than a snacl<.lapanese vegetable slicer. Keep warm in a low oven. add them to the oit and deep-fry for zl minutes until golden brown and crisp. z Pour the oit into a deep-fat fryer or deep. shave each parsnip lengthways into wafer-thin stices. white you cool< the remaining crisps. then immediatety sprinl<te the crisps with the curry salt white they are stitt piping hot. *il 134 Vegetabtes . To create wafer-thin broad ribbons. so the ftavour is readity absorbed. Using a stotted spoon. Heat the oit untit it registers r8ooC on a frying thermometer. 5 Serve the parsnip crisps as soon as you have cool<ed them att. Using a swivetvegetable peeler.

.l: 'r?:\. .i _ :.1 fiillt . -ii.i...1 @ iffi ..:..+r:.FF"- + :. simply mix l teaspoon medium curry pot'. r and chicl<en.". . lsprinkteitontoscatiops." -. it:.- l1r..$.prawns...1. '. I i :1 .t#iiwrw. To prepare..+rt:*.l rgi.r.'Cer lo every 2 teaspoons fine sea salt.i:!!:: a'r. :"+. . .:::. .it'sworthmakingmorethanyouneedandstoringtherestinasmalljar.d. to enhance their flavour.':. 't] - .'"i Thishassomanyuses.

Mustard Add r tablespoon coarse grain mustard and r teaspoon horseradish retish to the finished pu16e. about 5cm. or try one of my suggested flavourings below. Then pass the potatoes through a vegetable mouti or press through a pepper potato ricer. The first is the choice of potato. z Drain the potatoes. then return to the pan over the heat to dry out for a few minutes. Finally. You need one with a good flavour and floury texture. l(eep warm or chill untiI required and reheat in a pan or microwave to serve. Truffle Add a few drops of truffle oil to the finished pur6e. Then. Simmer until tender. A good pomme pur6e witt be able to tal<e a lot of butter without'sptitting'. about z5og. and boit in tightty satted water until tender. 4-6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT rl<g floury potatoes (such as Desir6e r Peel the potatoes thinty. Now. smatl celeriac. rother than mash or beat it. 136 Vegetables . gradualty worl< in the cubes of butter. Mix into the pomme pur€e with the cream and seasoning. Serve sprinkted with littte very finety chopped btack truffte if avai[abte. Remove the basiI before mixing into the pomme pur6e. boit the cream in a sma[[ pan untiI reduced by hatf. cut into small cubes sea salt and freshly ground blacl< rz minutes. a[lowing about 15 minutes from the moment the water returns to the boil. according to how rich you want the pur6e to be. FLAVOU RI NG5 Horseradish Add z-3 tablespoons horseradish relish to the finished pur6e. but checl< after 6o-9o9 butter. Celeriac PeeI and a chop/. 3 Meanwhile.I pomme puree There are three secrets to a velvety smooth pomme purde. Serve plain. Drain and whiz in a btender or food processor untilvelvety smooth. to make sure the potato cooks evenly. then cut in even-sized chunl<s. to ochieve a silky. Add to a or King Edward) r5omI double cream pan of tightty salted water and bring to the boit. such as Desirde or King Edward. SERVES To keep it light. Stir into the potatoes and season with salt and pepper to taste. add hot cream and beat in diced butter. press the potato through a mouli or potato ricer. cut it into chunks of the same size. Basit Heat 4 large basiI teaves in the cream as you reduce it to infuse. even texture.

Simmer for a couple of minutes' z Stide the potatoes into the pan and stir gently. Gas 6. Drain the par-cooked potatoes in a colander set over a bowl to catch the creamy mitk. of the 3 Layer the potatoes in a shal[ow ovenproof dish. r large garlic clove. The potatoes should be of a similar size. but I prefer to simmer the potatoes first in milk on the hob. rvrut lng ture the potatoes are just you layer them takes the guess work out of cooked before this classic baked potato dish and ensures that it is always fl$$ ffiF-S Y$ff creamy with a nice bite. then slice evenly 6oo9 slightly waxy potatoes (such as La Ratte or Maris Piper) into tcm stices. they should hold their shape and retain a bite. Sprinkte over the last of the cheese' minutes or 5 Ptace the dish in a shaltow roasting tin and bake for about ro-r5 untitthe cheese is beginning to bubbte and turn golden brown. Tricl<te a tittte of the saved mi[l< over each layer too. SERVES 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT r Preheat the oven to zoooC. Bring the mitk and cream to the boit in a large saucepan and add the gartic. Attow to stand for ro minutes before serving. but not too much . sliced r thyme sprig r bay leaf 9og Gruy6re cheese. Simmer for about 7 minutes 35oml milk 35oml double cream untit the potato slices are onty just tender. Peet the potatoes thinty. grated sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 Pour a littte more of the mitk around the sides. you need to buy a waxy variety that will retain its texture as it absorbs liquid.pommes dauphinoise For this creamy potato gratin. A traditional gratin is cooked entirely in the oven. sprinkling two thirds cheese and seasoning in between the layers. then finish the dish in the oven. This method cuts the cooking time and gives you a more dependable result.iust enough to moisten. herbs and seasoning. Vegetables 737 .

rf teaspoons reduced white wine vinegar (see betow) squeeze of [emon iuice pinch of cayenne pepper 4 large mint leaves. season with salt and add the reduced vinegar. whisl< in a trickte of cold water to re-emutsify it. F-#&fl h€ fi ruffi ffiffi#. Repeat with the remaining eggs and refrigerate untiL needed.withmuffinsinsteadoftoastandaminted hollandaise. 740 Eggs . sliced. Finatty. split 4-8 slices Parma ham Minted hollondoise: :. and to avoid overcool<ing them (see betow). lf you have poached the eggs ahead. lf the sauce does happen to sptit. 4 Poach the eggs: you can do this in advance for convenience. no longer or the yotks won't be soft. Boil until reduced by half. break an egg into a cup. using a slow circular movemeni. lightLy whisk the water.Y$#&i rt is absotutetv essentiar to use very fresh eggs to ensure the whites hold together. cut into thin julienne strips sea salt fotd in the chopped mint. add /rsmall shallot.bacon. Set the ctarified butter aside to cool unti[ [ul<ewarm. then reduce the heat to a low simmer. Serve immediatelv. Tffi Pffi ffiFffif. We poach the eggs ahead and keep the hollandaise warm in a bain marie. Don't add the butter too quickty or it witt curdle. mett the butter in a pan over a gentle heat. Tc help the egg set to a neat shape. Carefully lift out and place in a bowl of chilled water to stop the cool<ing. cooI and pour into a small bottle. transfer them to a pan containing enough boiting hot buttery water to cover. sit a poached egg on top and finally coat with the warm hotlandaise. crushed coriander and r tablespoon cold water into a a heatproof bowt and fit snugly over a pan of gently simmering water. this is still one of our popular breakfast dishes at Claridges. Acenturyon. Leave to stand off the heat for t5-zo seconds. 6 Butter the muffins and ptace on warmed ptates. then slowly tricl<le in the runny butter as you continue to whisl<. then 4 large free-range eggs l<nob of butter carefully pour off the gotden oil into a jug and discard the mitl<y sotids. crushed z Put the egg yotks. When all the buiter is incorporated. b&$firuffi %g$ruffi#effi lt's usefulto reep a small bottte of this in the fridge. then strain through a sieve. pour z5omlwhite wine ffiffiffiffiffiffiffi vinegar into a pan. lemon juice and cayenne. Set the bowl bacl< over the pan of hot water (but off the heat) to keep warm. To prepare. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well. SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL r To mal<e the hollandaise. 5 To assemble. Lemuel Benedict. Arrange r or 2 stices of Parma ham on each muffin. toast the split muffins tightty on both sides. a blade of mace and '/a teaspoon black peppercorns. Using it easier to incorporate the butter). using a slotted spoon.toastandHollandaise-tocureahangover. z muffins.eggs benedict with minted hollandaise ln 894 a Wall Street broker. because it cannot be reheated once it has cooled and solidified.5og unsalted butter z free-range egg yotks 5 coriander seeds. hand-hetd stick blender or electric whisl<. Slide the egg into the pan and poach for t/zminutes. stir occasionatly to stop a sl<in forming. beat until very tight and frothy (this mal<es 3 Remove the bowl from the heat and continue whisl<ing for a coupte more minutes. Hatf-fitl a sha[[ow saucepan with water. Meanwhile. ordered the chef at New York's Waldorf Hotel to put together all his favourite foods-eggs. add a dash of vinegar and bring to a steady simmer.

ru .

so the egg white sets without kitchen. about 4 minutes for duck eggs.it witt set in position after about 3o seconds. about z5g sea salt and freshlY coarse ground pat dry. but the frying must be gentle' with a bright yellow. 742 Eggs t . using a swivel peeter. crisping. you need two blini pans' about tzcm in almost as a confit technique. Bring a pan of water to the boit and btanch the spears for r minute' Drain and 4og butter. or extra large hen's eggs about 3og Parmesan cheese. Season lightly and cook untiI the whites are just set firm and the yolks are still soft and runny' Loosen the edge with a small palette knife and remove. Duck eggs witl tal<e 8-ro minutes. arrange the asparagus I { I very scatter over the Parmesan shavings and rocket leaves. when you can feel a perfection (see ducl< egg into each pan and fry gentty until cool<ed to crack a black pepper betow).fried duck eggs with griddted asparagus Free-range about z5% larger than a hen's egE becoming much more widety available. heat a z-3 minutes' heat rising. rich. drizz[e with olive oiI and l<nob z Pour r tabtespoon otive oit into each of two rzcm btini pans. then drain and turn to coat. add a small gentle heat rising. to drizzle and frY tightty satted peet the lower stems of the asparagus. This is a great dish to cook when homegrown diameter. otherwise use the smallest frying pan you have in the spring' SERVES z As A LIGHT MEAL asparagus starts to appear in shops and markets. of butter and place over a medium heat. ldeally. Lower the heat and cook until the egg white starts to firm. finelY pared into shavings handfut of rocl<et leaves. btanched asparagus in a sha[[ow dish. creamy yolk that stands proud of the white. Stip the butter ftakes down the side of the pan. spoon it over the egg whites to hetp them cook. As the butter begins to foam. cut into thin flakes z free-range ducl< eggs. around late duck eggs are 20Og green asparagus spears r good olive oi[. 3 minutes for extra large hen's eggs. dressing these coarsely grind tightty with otive oiI if you tike' Carefutty place a fried egg on top' over some pepper and serve straightaway' t { ffiffiffiffiffi#T'flffififfiffi ffiffiffiffi Crack the egg into the hot oiled pan over a medium heat. They're They are superb fried. Ptace th: refresh in a bowl of ice-cotd water for 5 minutes. which is terrific. then add the asparagus spears and cool< for about turning occasionatty. hen's eggs 5-6 minutes' griddte pan over a high heat untityou can feel a good 3 In the meantime. Tilt the pan to centre the yotk . untiI tender and tightty charred' on two warmed large plates and season' 4 To serve.

I44 Esss . ''' t@ ...::-.:::. ry I ! t-' ::l':r..

lmmediatety remove from the heat. Esss 145 . Return to the oven for minutes to crisp the pastry. or ready-made puff r to a round and use to line four rocm tartlet tins with removable bases. and carefully separate the tartlet tins. Line the :sed top tarttet with foiL and bal<ing beans. I line crisp pastry tartlets with smoked salmon. shattow pan set over a medium heat to begin with. 'aIow pan over a low heat. . on a . Gas 6. boitto reduce by hatf.the meantime. - . This wiltslow the cuisson down and achieve the correct creamy exture.saring them in the classic way. l<eep warm. Trim the pastry To . mal<e the scrambled eggs. :.. Place on warmed serving plates and fitt with -e warm scrambled eggs. serve the '-topped tartlets with a swirl of reduced Lobster bisque.tartlets of scrambted eggs with smoked satmon sled eggs. Leave the stacl< of tart cases to . Remove pepper .Osietra is my preferred To choice.I'eheat the oven to zoooC. diced 6 large or 8 medium free-range eggs 4 tablespoons double cream 4 tablespoons miil< the bases with a forl<.it extends high above the rims. _- foiI and bal<ing beans. using a sharp l<nife. Cut the pastry into four. and the way they are cooked. Place the tartlet cases. optionat) 4 teaspoons caviar . fill them with ' scrambled eggs and top with a little caviar . simpty :o with a few smoked satmon strips and snipped chives. is a matter of personal taste. Alternatively. pour in the cream and mill<. r5og sliced smoked salmon sea salt and freshly ground blacl< . Then carefully stacl< the pastry-tined tins. then rotI out each portion ' 35og Puff Pastry (page r9o). so it protrudes about rcm above the rim. mal<e the tartlet cases.3es leveI with the rim of the tins. I Use a wide. 3 the pastry high up the sides. ' .'./hen ready to serve. if serving [obster bisque. When the eggs begin to -ambte. not before. I like them creamy and fine-textured. crack in the eggs. For an elegant light meal.. season or extra strips of smol<ed satmon and snipped chives --d stir gentty with a forl< untitcreamy. . you can top with smoked salmon strips and snipped chives. add the eggs and whisl< _. treat the palate to an unforgettable experience. Add the butter and as soon as it starts to meLt. . For a less extravagant finish. beat vigorously untilthe eggs form soft curds. Serve immediately. one on top l<eeps -e other .'y bal<ing sheet and bal<e for about 15 minutes untiI golden brown. Using a baLtoon whisl<.: ln the fridge for r5 minutes. serve: zoomI Lobster Bisque (page rz. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL .'. As it begins to melt. Line the sides with the smol<ed satmon.orously with a balloon whisl< as they start to heat. Top with a spoonfuI of caviar and surround each :rttet with adrizzle of reduced lobster bisque if you Iil<e. and continue to stir gently until soft and creamy. r 4og butter.this helps the pastry thin and crisp as it cool<s. I ?emove the tarttet cases from the tins. then whisl< in the cream and mill<.st. Serve without delav. Put the butter into a wide. -. stitl in a stacl<. achieved . Season at this stage.

$ t :r. one at a time. Like all soufflds. cover and attow the mixture to cool. gently fotd in the rest. Bake for ro-rz minutes untilwell risen and the surface is set and golden brown. Graduatty whisk in the hot milk. Stir in the z egg yoil<s. !^9X. they need to be served the moment they are ready. 9cm in diameter. 146 Esgs . to brush to serve. Discard the bay teaf and onion. then remove from the heat and set aside to infuse for 3o minutes. beat in the Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Hotding each ramel<in with a cloth.Swiss soufft6s These impressive. preheat the oven to zoooC. Divide between the ramekins and level the tops. 6 Now work fast! As soon as the souff[6s are ready. Sprinl<te the grated cheese over the top and bal<e in the oven for ro minutes. pepper and nutmeg. delicate b€chamel soufflds are cooked in individual ramekins. Simmer for z minutes. Beat a third ofthe egg whites into the sauce to tighten it.ltisimportantto whisk the egg whites to the correct softly peaking consistency. 5 In the meantime. lf overbeaten the whites wil[ become grainy and you won't be able to foLd them into the mixture smoothly. pour the cream into a large shallow ovenproof gratin dish anc pepper sprinkle with satt. 3 When ready melted butter.. with a generous sprinkling of GruyEre. then sprinkte in the crumbs and tap a[[ round to coat with an even layer. aooml double cream freshty grated nutmeg roog GruyEre or EmmenthaI cheese. grated sea salt and freshly ground blacl< 4 In a clean grease-free bowl. Serve immediatelv. Brush the insides evenly with melted butter. separated. then using a targe meta[ spoon. over a gentte heat for r-z minutes. then turned out to finish cooking in a gratin dish of cream. Remove from the heat. Reheat the mitl<. The souffL6 mixture can be prepared to the end of step z wetl in advance (up to z4 hours) and kept in the fridge untiI ready to finish and serve. stirring once or twice. to make a smooth sauce. Cook.: t. Stand the ramel<ins on a bal<ing sheet. freshly grated z large free-range eggs. quicl<ly run a thin table knife round the side of each one. stirring. whisk the 3 egg whites with a good pinch of salt until they form soft firm peaks. tipplng out any excess. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL 3oomlmilk r bay leaf % small onion r Put the miU< into a pan with the bay leaf and onion and bring to a simmer. so have warmed serving plates - and your guests - ready and waiting.': d" 'f'tss L ffi nn. upend the souffl6s into the cream. 3og butter 3og plain flour z59 Parmesan cheese. Gas 6 and prepare four z-3 tablespoons naturaI colour dried breadcrumbs ramekins. plus r extra egg white z Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and stir in the ftour.

perfect cheese omelette tn theory it's easy to make an omelette. yours is not as robust. shaking the pan frequently with one hand. about r5g 5og grated Gruy6re or mature Cheddar cheese sea salt and freshly ground black z Pour in the beaten eggs and swir[ them round and round in the pan with a fork. choice of pan is important. Add the olive oiI to the pan and. flip the third of the omelette furthest from you into the centre. and soft and creomy in the centre. with rounded sides that make it easier to flip the ometette. Then. The trick is to get the eggs to an even tight. For real perfection. We use a heavy duty nonstick pan that can take metal forks. giving a less satisfactory result. use your tea towel to shape the omelette ro[[ neatly. but if C# ffi$]-S #iffii#qffiT Don't season the esgs before you cook them. hotd the pan just off the heat. 5 At this point. r tablespoon olive oil large knob of butter. creamy texture at this stage. The perfect omelette is pale golden on the outside without :he slightest tinge of brown. but the timing is critical. slip in the butter and swir[ it in the pan as it foams and melts. an omelette *ill be hard and leathery. Esss 147 . titt away from you and bang the side opposite the handle on the surface a few times. The secret lies in the technique of constantly stirring and shaking the pan during cooking. Beat the eggs in a 3 medium free-range eggs bowl untiI evenly blended. Serve at once. because salt breaks down the albumen in the eggwhite and thins the mixture. If overcooked. when you can feel a good heat rising. The heat of the creamy centre is sufficient to melt the cheese. untiI the base ofthe ometette is just set.French term bauvese. and quite unpalatable. so it folds over into a neat roll. 4 Wrap your free hand in a ctean tea towe[. SERVES r AS A LIGHT MEAL r Place a 2o-27cm omelette pan over a medium-high heat. hotding the pan handle again. then folding and tipping the omelette straight on to a warmed serving plate so it folds neatly into three. Loosen the edges with a palette l<nife. season with salt and pepper and scatter over the cheese. 3 When pepper the mixture is three-quarters set. Now hold the pan over a warmed plate and slide the omelette out. You need a frying pan about zrcm in diameter. but don't add satt or pepper at this stage. stop stirring with the fork and leave undisturbed for 3o seconds or so. then use a wooden or heatproof plastic fork for stirring. This has the effect of shal<ing the omelette loose from the pan so that it begins to slide on to the edge furthest away from you. which the. And that's it. Th$ ffi ffi$ffi$$T"$"ffiffi$-ffi rr'.

Omelette Arnold Bennet Top the half-set ometette wiih ftaked. when you can feel a good heat rising. Put the spinach into a saucepan with r tablespoon otive oit and place over a low heat for about 3o seconds untit tightty wilted. add the remaining tabtespoon olive oil to the pan and swir[ round the base. Remove from the heat and loosen the edges with a l<nife. otherwise a wooden or heatproof ptastic one) and stir the egg pepper mixture round in the pan. Gratin6 under the d t gril[ as above. tr+v t. Serve straight from the pan with mixed leaf salad SERVES 2 AS A LIGHT MEAL z good handfuts of babY sPinach leaves.open omelette of goat's cheese and spinach As a modification of the on top of a perfect omelette technique. Stide the ometette out of the pan and serve. pan witt take it. q and crusty bread' you could substitute a herb-coated chEvre ifyou prefer. Finish as above. chunks of chEvre and boby spinach leaves are scottered soft' I use a cendrd (ash-coated) goat's cheese' but set omelette. about 5og z tablespoons olive oil 4 large free-range eggs r preheat the gritt to medium. Season tightty (you won't need much satt because of the cheese). stop stirring with the fork. then remove from the heat and drain on l(itchen paper. cut into wedges' VARIATIONS Try one of the fotlowing alternative toppings: caramelised onion and anchovy cool< z-3 sticed red onions slowly in olive oil with a tight sprinl<ting of sugar untit softened and carametised. scatter over the hatf-set ometette with torn basi[. pour in the eggs. Finish as above. Sprinkte with the Parmesan' Now place the omelette pan under the gritt until the top is tightty set and the 4 patette cheese is gotden. then drop in the diced butter and allow to melt and foam. which is then flashed under the gritl to tightly colour the chdvre. When the mixture is two'thirds set. coot stightty' thescatter over the hatf-set ometette and top with 4-6 snipped anchovy fillets. zog butter. anc Confit of cherry tomatoes Slow roast cherry tomatoes in otive oit with thyme seasoning untiI tender. Foo< -oo' . Beatthe eggs in a bowt untiteventy btended. with rind z tablespoons freshlY grated Parmesan cheese sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< z place a27-23cm ometette pan overa medium-high heat. creamy Mornay cheese sauce and grated cheese. Tease the tightty cool<ed leaves apart to seParate. but don't add satt or pepper. Take a forl< (ideatty metal if your 3 when the butter is foaming. soft ch6vre (PreferabtY cendr6). poached smokec haddocl<.Q. diced roog good. Pinch the chEvre into pieces and scatterthese and the spinach leaves over the surface of the ometette.

* i#:l...l..**:.i ff :x?l#i}r T:ffi :lfiffi ...r#:lhrrl:lff rn[T::*I[lil:.:. :. 15 o Eggs .

Set this over a pan of gently simmering water and whisl<. about 3o% cocoa solids . then put in the freezer.chocolate and tiramisu parfait 'ese decadent parfaits comprise three layers: a chocolate hazelnut base. Remove and stir well untit smooth :nd creamy. and a (pages t5B-Q.lm into a heatproof bowl. then spoon into the moutds. The rl rl To tabtespoons Madeira or medium tabtespoons Marsala sabayon is readywhen the mixture [eaves a trail as the beaters are tifted. As sabayon never :ezes solid. 4 Now mal<e the sabayon. put the chocotate. Tap on a work surface to level the mixture. use metal cutters if possible (available from good cookshops). icing sugar. 6 sma[[ scoops White Chocolate lce Cream (page ry9) or Classic Vani[[a lce Cream (page r58) darl< chocolate shavings 'j . z Meanwhite. 3 Give the chocotate mixture a stir. Set over a pan of gentty simmering water untiI the Cho co lote h aze ln ut base : roog good quatity miil< chocolate (such as Valrhona's Jivara). set six 6cm metal ring cutters on a tray tined with cting fitm. :nd atlowing plenty to overhang the sides. for at least ro minutes untilyou :rave a pate gotden lOOg Casrer sugar tight. Leave to cool to room temperature. the consistency of thicl< double cream. To r For the chocolate tayer. using a swivel vegetable peeler or sharp knife. serve: 6 Unmould the parfaits and top with ice cream and chocolate shavings to serve. Or tine 3og roasted chopped hazelnuts r tablespoon icing sugar roomI double cream r tablespoon rum c ramel<ins with cting film. The chocolate must be at room temperature. Tal<e the moulds or ramel<ins from the freezer and spoon the sabayon on top ofthe chocolate layer. a sabayon flavoured with fortified wines. the parfaits must be served prompfly SERVES 6 'and.arge heatproof bowt. stable foam. Return to the freezer and freeze until firm. pressing welI into the sides and base for a snug fit. Eggs 757 . Saboyon: 5 free-range egg yoll<s :sing an electric hand whisl< or battoon whisl<. or buy a good quaLity luxury :oop of vanilla or white chocolate ice cream on top.i *F€#fl#L&YS SE*&hsgru#S The easiest wav to shape thin chocolate curls is to shave them directty from a block of chocolate. Use a homemade ice cream mould the pa(aits. cream and . untiI cool. not taken straight from the fridge. Put the egg yoll<s.hocolate has melted. or ramekins.. 5 Remove from dry sherry the heat and continue whisl<ing for another 5 minutes or so. hazetnuts. Madeira and Marsala into a . sugar. stirring occasionatty.

z Place the egg whites in a ctean. then peel off tablespoon chopped pistachio nuts (unsalted) the paper. Eton Mess has evolved into a scrumptious pudding that couldn't be easier to prepare. SERVES 6-8 Meringue: z large free-range egg whites pinch of fine sea salt or squeeze of lemon juice 1 Preheat the oven Gas to its lowest setting. 4ooml double cream z5og ripe strawberries. but remains slightly gooeyinside. Very fresh eggs are noL Lhe secret to successful meringue. but you're not sure how many. Meringues are simply crushed.it bakes to a crispness on the surface. Line a bal<ing sheet with bal<ing parchment.Eton mess OriginalLy a tuck shop treat at that well known boarding school. Leave to infuse for at [east 48 hours before using. Sprinl<te with chopped pistachio nuts and serve. lf your oven is very [ow.t it dishes. the meringues may be teft inside to dry out for up to 6 hours. or you are using a (optionat) :. 5 Whip the cream just untiI it forms soft floppy peal<s. untityou have a 3 Graduatty whisl< in the sugar. Roughty cut up the strawberries and toss with the l<irsch or sherry if using. Bal<e for at [east z hours untit tightly crusty on top.. 6 When ready to serve fold the crushed meringues and strawberries into the cream and spoon into 6 or 8 small i i" :. The best texture is achieved with eggs that are at least r week old.i]. lr'. weigh them and use an equaI quantity of sugar. Do nor over-beat or the mixture will become dry and grainl. i-i i:. then fotded into whipped cream with chopped strawberries. /q. Keep the pods in the jar and replenish the sugar as necessary. about 2cm thicl(. t . a tablespoonful at a time. To assemble: firm glossy meringue that holds its shape. or caster sugar untilthe egg whites lust hotd firm peal<s. warming oven. . Add the satt or lemon luice and whisl< with a hand-hetd electric whisl< roog vanitla sugar (see below).. huIted z tablespoons l<irsch or sherry 4 Spread this on the prepared bal<ing sheet in an even layer. Breal< the meringue into z-3cm pieces. maximum roooC. grease-free bowt. You will also get a better result ifthe egg whites are at room temperature..:li . 752 Eggs I. Leave to cooI completely. rather than tal(en straight from the fridge. Easy French meringue is used here . lfyou have separated egg whites in the fridge destined for meringue. your own fragrant vaniLta sugar by burying r or z vanilla pods in a jar of caster sugar. n nur. r. Carefutty tift the meringue (by the paper) on to a wire racl<.

Cover the surface with damp greaseproof paper to prevent a skin forming and allow to coo[. grease-free bow[. To serve. cover with cting fitm and chitt. uncovered. stirring once or twice. stirring with a wooden spoon. SERVES 4 r First mal<e the custard. When the [iquid is crystal ctear. then dry. whisk the egg whites with a squeeze of lemon luice in loog caster sugar 3oomlwhole milk Caramel: 6og caster sugar 1 a clean. raise the heat and bubble until the syrup turns a rich darl< brown caramel (but don't stir. Meanwhile. or individuat serving bowls. the billowy meringues are floated on the coffee custard and drizzled with caramel. Leave to stand for ro minutes before serving. mix teaspoon liquid glucose the caster sugar. lmmediately remove from the heat and carefulty drizzte the carameI over the meringues. Put the egg yoll<s and brown sugar into a heatproof 5 free-range egg yolks 9og soft light brown sugar z5omI double cream bowl and whisl< until thick and creamy. tip the quenette out sidewavs into the simmering milk to poach. whisking att the time. Once it is atl incorporated. Do not cover with a pan lid or the meringues wi[[ cottapse' When cooked. 5 For the caramet. Slowly pour the creamy coffee milk on to the egg mixture. lmmediately. lift out the meringues with the spoon and float on the coffee custard. Esss 153 . Allow to cool. using a hand-hetd etectric whisl< or balloon whisl<. or stop watching). 3 To make z5oml whole miU< 5oml espresso coffee or strong instant coffee Meringue: z eggwhites squeeze of lemon juice the meringues. Whisl< in the sugar. Spoon 3 or 4 neat queneltes of meringue into the simmering milk and poach. a spoonful at a time. for about z minutes. carefully turn each meringue over and poach for another z minutes.ite flottante favourite French dessert that cleverly illustrates the versatility of eggs. 4 Pour the mill< into a large shatlow pan and bring to a simmer. Using a stotted spoon. Repeat to cool< the remaining meringue. The yolks go to make on espresso coffee cr\me anglaise. z Strain through a fine chinois or sieve back into the pan and cool< over a low heat. untiI the custard begins to thicl<en and thinty coat the bacl< ofthe spoon. Do not allow to boit as the custard wit[ curdte. Ptace the pan over a low heat to dissolve the sugar stowly. ffi #ffi $ F$#LF ffi {k# ffi ru tr LilSS Dip a dessertspoon into a bowl of hot water to warm it slightLy. which are gently poached rather than This is my version of a boked. glucose and z tablespoons cold water in a heavy-based pan and leave to stand for ro minutes. about z-3 minutes. continue to whisl< for z minutes [onger. bring the cream and milk atmost to the boit in a heavy-based pan and stir in the coffee. while the whites are whisked up to make meringues. untit they form soft peal<s. Then pour into a [arge sha[tow bowt. Dip the spoon sideways into the meringue and curl to take up an oval. so the carameI sets to a crunchy topping.

using a hand'held electric whisl<. mal<ing sure the surface is tevet. uncovered. Quicl<[y cover the top and sides with meringue. With the beaters stitt whirting. When the tiquid is clear. until they form soft peal<s. z Whisl< the eggs and sugar in a large heatproof bowl over a pan of gentty simmering water. glucose and 3 tabtespoons water into a rl teaspoons liquid gtucose medium heavy-based saucepan and leave to stand for:. then turn out on to a wire rack and peel offthe paper. so the ice cream doesn't melt.take care to avoid over-scorching. to check the temperature of the sugar syrup for the meringue. whisl< the egg whites with a squeeze of lemon iuice in a clean. This onty tal<es seconds . cut out rz discs of the baked sponge' Place six on a tray. thick and creamy. Set to one side. Repeat to finish the rest ofthe atasl<as. page r58) Italian meringue: 18og caster sugar about ro minutes. increase the heat and boit untit the syrup registers tzooC on a sugar thermometer. 3 large free-range egg whites squeeze of lemon juice 6 Using a 6-7cm cutter. Gas 5. using a hand-held electric whisk or ba[[oon whisl<. MAKES 6-8 Genoise sponge bose: 5og butter 4 medium free-range eggs r To make the sponge. tightty crushed 6 scoops good quatity ice cream the heat and whisk for a further 3-5 minutes to coot. Serve at once. 8 To serve. place each ataska on a serving plate and wave a cook's blow'torch tightly and quickty over each meringue to colour. Carefulty pour on to the prepared tray and gently spread to a 1cm thicl<ness. Ptace a neat scoop of ice cream (the same diameter as the discs) on the raspberries. tined with cting fitm and top with a layer of crushed raspberries' 7 Now finish one at a time. glossy meringue.) (preferably homemade. 3 Using a large metal spoon. gently fotd in the flour. then dissotve over a medium heat. grease-free bow[. untiI the mixture is pate. I envelop individual alaskas in ltalian meringue and wave a blow-torch over the surface to finish. melt the butter.o minutes. Now. Remove the bow[ from rz5g caster sugar rz5g ptain flour. sifted Filling: zoog raspberries. Preheat the oven to r9ooC. then top with a ptain sponge disc. then cool to room temperature. drizzle the runny butter down the side of the bowl and fotd this in very gently. then ptace. lt shoutd leave a traitas you lift the beaters. A sugar thermometer is useful here. Leave on the tray for ro minutes. Bal<e for 4 To mal<e the meringue. 154 Esss .my baked alaskas lnstead of baking in a very hot oven which can be unpredictable. swirting it attractively. stirring once or twice. (lt doesn't matter if the mixture doesn't extend to the sides of the tray. 5 In the meantime. in the freezer untiI ready to serve. The effect is stunning and they taste divine. put the sugar. until golden and iust firm to the touch. Line a shallow bal<ing tray with bal<ing parchment. slowly pour the hot syrup down the side of the bowt and continue beating on fu[[ speed for ro minutes to a firm.

Jff:ifi.':l"Jl*lljiill:Jff"' . .'' .!.'.w.'..upiif. # .' " nt2ffi ttfT1fffffft1fi**t'.ffi:lilili"i:.ff..iliil'J::1i'#'l:i:i5ilff..''.1.f# tut.

i:. maximum roooC. pudding 4 When ready to serve. stirring. Cover a [arge bal<ing sheet with a non-sticl( siticone liner.calvados rice br0[6es As a twist on classic crdme brAQes. over a low heat for a couple of minutes or so untiI it starts to thicl<en. z5omtwhole milk z5omI double cream 9og caster sugar 6 free-range egg yotl<s z tablespoons Calvados 6 tablespoons demerara sugar cream and caster sugar. then turn the heat down and simmer for about z5 minutes. making sure they are not touching. Dip the appte slices.: prefreat the oven to its lowest setting.l-. then cut into thin. scatter demerara sugar over the surface and caramelise the topping. Chitt untit required. then lay on the silicone mat. 5 Serve the puddings as soon as they are atl carametised' Set the ramekins on smatt ptates. or peach or mango stices 3 lmmediatety remove from the heat and stir in the Calvados. Do not overheat or it wit[ curdle. Core. then divide the rice pudding between six ramekins and allow to cool. then return to the pan and cool<. t spoon a rich. into Stock Syrup (page 164). 756 Esss . SERVES 6 9og pudding rice r To mal<e the pudding. Remove to a wire rack to cooI and crisp. even slices. one at a time. but do not peeI a Granny Smith apple. sprinl<[e demerara sugar thicl<ty on top of each and wave a blow-torch over the surface to mett and caramelise the sugar' Don't do this in advance or the sugar will dissotve into a syrup rather than caramelise. put the rice into a large non-sticl< saucepan with the mitk. Place in the oven until dry and crisp. z Meanwhile. Bring stowly to the boit. creamy rice pudding into ramekins. if you haven't time to make the tuiles. Serve with apple tuiles (see below' or sliced fresh fruit. To serve: Appte Tuiles (see below). Stowty mix in the rice pudding. such as peaches or mango. about z hours. Gas /+. beat the egg yotks in a bowl untit thick and creamy. with appte tuiles (see below) or sliced peach or mango on the side r. The simple combination of flavours works brilliantly. stirring occasionally until the rice is soft and plum: and the mitl< is mostty absorbed..

Stir constantly with a wooden spoon untiI the custard thicl<ens stightty . And although it cannot be frozen as it is. including trifles ond classic bavarois. add the leaves from 6 mint sprigs to the hot creamy milk and set aside to infuse for 3o minutes.crEme anglaise A good crEme anglaise . FL-qqr#ffi ffi ffi ffi tffi ffi &4ffi eruffi fr-&$Sffi vou. 4 Strain the mixture through a sieve bacl< into the pan. z5oml double cream a z Using a ba[[oon whisl<. then ptace over a low heat.un infuse the creamy milk with other flavourings. As the tiquid starts to creep up the sides ofthe pan. lfyou draw a finger along the bacl< ofthe spoon.enough to thinly coat the back ofthe spoon. Cover and allow to coo[. then slowly bring to the boit. it should leave an impression. scoop out the tiny seeds 3 Add the empty vanilla pods to the mill< and cream. Chitt untit required (or churn into ice cream). from sophisticated fruit tarts through to homely puddings and pies.^.*. beat the rest of the sugar and egg yoll<s together in with the tip of a l<nife and add them to the yotk and sugar mix. Crdme anglaise will keep for z3 days in the fridge as long as you cover the surface to stop a skin forming. tt complements so many desserts. for example. stirring occasionally to prevent a sl<in forming.tastes superb. You may be surprised by the suggestion of UHT milk. Esgs 157 .gffi4. omitting the vanilla pods. Stii the vanilla pods [engthways. 5og caster sugar 5 large free-range eggyotks z vanilla pods large heatproof bowt.**m . A sugar thermometer can be used to check when the custard is cool<ed sufficientty - the temperature should be 8z-84oC. 5 lmmediatety remove the pan from the heat and strain the custard back into the bowl through a fine sieve.*li$uu**lU. gradualty pour on to the sugary yolks. beating well. then remove the leaves and return the liquid to the boil before adding to the yolk and sugar mix. preferably UHT sugar (this wilt hetp to stop the mixture boiting over).. and it can be served either worm or chilled.*... MAKES ABOUT 6ooml r Putthe miU<and cream into a heavy-based saucepan with rtabtespoon ofthe z5omI whole miU<.or homemade custard souce . but it does make the custard more stable. you can churn it in an ice cream machine to make wonderful ice cream. and of course it is an integral part of some recipes. For a minted crdme angLaise.

classic vanitta rce cream
We

freezers

only ever serve homemade ice cream in our restaurants. There is always a good variety of flavoured ice creams in the to complement our desserts, and most of them are based on crEme anglaise. Pale yellow and speckled with tiny

black vanilla seeds, real vanilla ice cream is far superior to bought ice cream. The secret to success is a smooth texture, and you to invest in using an ice cream machine is the best way to achieve this. tf you haven't got one already, then I recommend
a

good quality domestic ice cream machine with o built-in freezer motor. MAKES ABOUT r.z LITRES

5oomI whole mill<, preferablY UHT

r

Mal<e

the crdme angtaise (fottowing the method on page rl7). Coot quickly over

5ooml double cream loog caster sugar

a bowt of iced water and chill thoroughty.

z Pour the chitled crdme angtaise into an ice cream machine and churn until thick
enough to scoop. Either serve straightaway or transfer to a freezerproof plastic tub, seat and put in the freezer. (lfyou do not have an ice cream machine, freeze

rz large free-range eggyotks
4

vanilla pods

the chitted crdme angtaise in a shaltow container, beating thoroughty at least
three times during freezing.)
3 To enjoy

the ice cream at its best, eat within a weel<, altowing it to soften at

room temperature for about ro minutes before scooping. For convenience' you may wish to scoop the soft ice cream into batts and open freeze these on a non-

stick tray, ready to serve (or pacl< into a plastic tub if not serving at once). As ice cream readily absorbs the flavours of food stored atongside it, containers must
be well seated.

VARIATIONS attractive decorations are simply made from 'spent' pods. As you scrape the vanilla seeds out (for your
crdme anglaise, perhaps) make sure you keep one end of the pod intact. Then, using the tip of a very sharP, thin bladed knife, slit each pod lengthways as many times as you can, keeping the end intact. Place on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and spread out the strands. Repeat to make as many vanilla fans
as you need, then cover with another sheet of greaseproof paper and place

By adding different flavours to the crEme anglaise before churning it, you can

create a variety of ftavoured ice creams. These are some of my favourites' Orange flower water Omit the vanilla. Add z-3 tabtespoons orange flower water

to the crdme anglaise as it cools. cinnamon Substitute the vanilta pods with z cinnamon sticl<s and 1 teaspoon
ground cinnamon.

Mint Omit the vanitta. Infuse the hot mitl< with a large sprig of mint and set aside untit cotd. Remove the mint, return the mitk to the boiI and continue as above.
Caramel Before you start making the crdme anglaise, gently heat roog sugar with r tablespoon cold water and 4og butter in a heavy-based pan, stirring until dissotved. Increase the heat and cook until the tiquid turns gotden brown'

another baking tray on top. Bake at
r8ooC, Gas

4for zo-25 minutes. When

lmmediatety remove from the heat and whisl< in the mill< and cream for the
custard. Then proceed with the recipe for crdme anglaise'
Rum and raisin Warm 6-8 tablespoonfuts raisins in rooml each darl< rum and

the kitchen fitls with the aroma of vanilla you know they are readY.
Remove and coot. Use to decorate ice

creams and other desserts.

Stock Syrup (page 16+), then remove from the heat and macerate for z4 hours. Drain and add to the crdme angtaise before churning.

158

Esgs

white chocolate ice cream
Not oll ice creams have a crEme anglaise bqse. This one is

simply a mixture of melted white chocolate, cream qnd milk,

combined with an inert sugar, liquid glucose, to keep it smooth. We have very fost freezing machines in our kitchens, which keep the mixture churning until it is smooth and firm enough to scoop into.balls. At home, I suggest that ofter churning the mixture in your domestic ice cream mochine, you tronsfer it to a suitable container and leave it in the freezer for an hour or

two before scooping into balls. Good quality white chocolate is essentiaL MAKES ABOUT goomt

r

Breal< up

the chocolate into a large heatproof bowl and add the remaining

16og white chocolate

ingredients. Place the bowl over a pan of gently simmering water and heat
stowty, stirring frequentty, until the chocolate melts smoothly into the tiquid. Don't a[[ow the mixture to become too hot otherwise the chocolate might 'seize'. It should be just warm enough for the chocolate to melt and blend smoothty.

z5oml double cream

5oomlwhole milk
5og icing sugar

r4og pot liquid glucose

z Remove the bowl from the pan and pour the mixture into a cotd bow[. Leave untit quite cotd, then pour into an ice cream machine and churn untit it is as thick
as possible. Scoop into a freezerproof container and freeze for

z3

hours or until

it is firm enough to scoop into balls. 3 For convenience, you can scoop the ice cream into sma[[ batls and open freeze these on a tray lined with a sheet of baking parchment. Freeze untiI solid, then
ptace in a freezerproof container and l<eep frozen untiI ready to serve.

flF{ ffiffi-S Yfrffi

Liquio grucose is available from pharmacists and the baking

section of larger supermarkets.

Esss 159

kn i cl<e rbocl<er glo ri es
This is my chic version of the favourite British sundoe that takes its name from the striped pantaloons worn by Victorian

the seaside. Here tall glasses are filled with delicate layers of fresh orange ielly, panna cotta, crushed amaretti and sliced peaches, then topped with ice cream and a flamboyant fruit finish to serve. SERVES 4-6
ladies at Oronge Jelly:

r

For the ietty, put the orange

juice into a pan with the icing sugar to taste and boil

Tooml fresh orange juice

z-3 tablespoons icing sugar
3 sheets leaf getatine (or z teaspoons

to reduce to about 5oom[. Meanwhite, soal< the getatine leaves in cold water until softened. (Or soal< powdered gelatine in z tabtespoons cold water untilspongy.) z Remove the gelatine leaves from the cotd water and squeeze out excess water, then stide them into the hot orange tiquid (or add the softened gelatine) and stir briskty untitdissotved. Cool to room temperature. Pour z tablespoons into each glass and chitt untit set. Pour the rest into a shallow bowl and chitt untit set.
(Or soak 3 For the panna cotta, soal< the gelatine leaves in cold water untitftoppy' powdered gelatine in z tablespoons cold water until spongy.)

powdered gelatine)

Ponna cotta: 4 sheets leaf gelatine (or 3 teaspoons powdered getatine)

6oomldouble cream
r5omI mill<
15og caster sugar

4 Stowty bring the cream and mitl< to the boiI in a large saucepan, stirring. Lower the heat and bubbte gently for about 5 minutes to reduce by about a third'
Remove the getatine leaves from the cold water and squeeze out excess water.
Tal<e

grated zest of r orange
z tablespoons white rum (optional)

the pan offthe heat, stir in the sugar and orange zest, then stide in the

getatine (or add the softened gelatine), stirring untiI dissolved. coot stightty, then
mix in the rum, if using. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to coot.

To

serve:

75-roog strawberries, finely chopped 6-8 amaretti biscuits, crushed z ripe peaches, thinly sliced

jetty in each glass and chitl 5 Pour z tabtespoons of panna cotta on top of the set to set. Pour the rest into a shattow bowl and chitt untiI set.
6 Turn the set letty out of the shatlow bowl on to a sheet of bal<ing parchment and

chop finety, using a sharp knife dipped in cold water. Add a thin layer of finely chopped strawberries to each glass, then a layer of chopped ietty'
7 Stir the

8-ro sma[[ scoops of good quatity
vanilla ice cream (preferably
homemade, page r58)

softly set panna cotta in the bowt, then spoon a layer on top ofthe

dried pineappte and star fruit slices (optionat, see betow)

chopped ietty. Add crushed amaretti, then arrange the peach stices on top. Finatty, as a crowning glory, top the peaches with two scoops of vanitta ice cream and finish with dried fruit stices or sliced strawberries. Serve immediatety'

Oven-dried wafer-thin slices of firm fruit, such as pineapple, apple, banana (iltustrated make a stunning decoration. Simply cut slightly under-ripe fruit into very fine slices. right), and star fruit using a sharp, serrated fruit knife. Sprinkle fruit that is liable to discoloration, such as banana, with lemon juice. Dip the fruit stices quickty into Stock Syrup (page 164), shake offexcess, then lay on baking sheets lined with silicone cool<ing liners- Leave in the oven on its lowest settihg for a good z hours until firm and almost translucent' The slices will crisp up on cooling. Store in airtight ptastic containers for up to a week.

mffi$ffiffi FffiU{ H 5LE{,ffi$

t6z

Fru

it

i .1i. . .

twist to separate and thinty slice the flesh.$d %Yhtq. then peet. then slice thinty. Ptace in a large bowl and pour on the syrup. f€. Add att these fruits to the bowl and stir gentty to combine. For a light stock syrup you will need to ditute it. Put them together in a vibrant fruit salad to brighten the winter days. 3 Cut the mango down either side ofthe [arge stone' PeeI away the skin and cut the flesh into small cubes. hulled 1-2 pOmegranales 1 4 Dip the peach briefty into hot water to loosen the skin. r star fruit z kiwi fruit. Cool and bottle or pour into a iar and l<eep in the fridge (for up to z weeks) to use as required. Cut into quarters. Angostura z-3 tablespoons grenadine syrup r medium ripe pineapple r large ripe mango r large peach r Asian pear (nashi) z Prepare the fruits. such as pared strips of citrus zest. then peet the flesh and cut into smatl chunks. juicy seeds add a special quality to this salad. Gentty stir these into the fruit salad. Halve or quarter the strawberries. ? t 164 Fruit I . bruised lemon grass stall(s or a dash of liqueur. Amaretto or Kahtua.tropical fruit satad with pomegranate seeds Make the most of tropicat fruits during the winter when they are in good supply and homegrown fruits are limited. Peelthe pineapple and remove the 'eyes'with the tip of a vegetable peeter or sharp l<nife. Cut in hatf.$Fl This has so many uses. I suggest aromatic Angostura Bitters and a dash of grenadine syrup to accentuate the pomegranate flavour. 6 Add the papaya just before serving. then carefully scrape out the fleshy seeds. in the lemon juice. Stice the star fruit and l<iwi fruit. then stir Bitters and grenadine. which is very bitter. Transfer to a serving bowl and scatter over the pomegranate seeds. I suggest you make up a quantity of full strength syrup. such as Malibu. lmpart character and colour by adding fLavourings. Dissolve the sugar in the water in a heavy-based pan over a low heat. Peet. peeled zz5g strawberries. remove the core and cut the ftesh into bite-sized chunks. mint sprigs. lt is important to remove att of the creamy yettow membrane. adding about hatf the volume of water. Add to the bowt.i-#d. hatve verticatty. then bring to the boil and boil for 5 minutes. Pomegranates are in season from late outumn through to the spring and their fragrant. using 5ooml water and 5oog sugar. Chitt untiI ready to serve. quarter and core the Asian pear. SERVES 6-8 z5omI Stock Syrup (see below) juice of z lemons r tablespoon Angostura Bitters r Mix the syrup with rooml boiting water. 5 To papaya (paw paw) prepare the pomegranate(s). Vary the flavour of the stock syrup according to taste. Cut in hatl scoop out and discard the seeds.

For o simple compote. Heat a large heavy-based non-sticl< frying pan untiI you can see a faint haze rising. then searing them in a very hot. if using. then macerate in syrup with poiry eau-de-vie or Calvados blackberries. then 4 Add the berries and syrup to the caramelised apptes and pears. such as apptes and pears. 3 Lightty crush the berries in a bowl.ru -ffi#S-$TE ffi Tossing autumn fruits. Serve with cream. core and stice the apples and pears. Brief cooking is essentiat. You only need to carametise the outside remain firm. SERVES 4-6 r Quarter. in icing sugar. Tip the hot fruits into a bowl. stir required. gentty. sifted about t5og frying pan and spread out in a single layer. . pan-roast qnd some crushed apples and pears until lightly caramelised. Cover 5 To cupfuI of blackberries or elderberries. and toss to mix. Serve chilled. z Toss the sliced z large fresh Cox's apples z large Conference or Williams pears 4 fruits in the icing sugar. give the fruits a gentle stir. as the fruit slices should remain intact. with cream. Fruit r65 . then immediatety tip them into the tablespoons icing sugar. Add the poire eau-de-vie or Catvados. then sprinkle with chopped mint if you [ike.B $T'S FS. but don't peel them. ripe orchard and hedgerow fruits in desserts.the fruit shoutd still z5oml Stocl< Syrup (page r5+) z tablespoons poire eau-de-vie or Calvados (optionat) r tablespoon chopped mint (optionat) serve. dry pan gives them a fabulous ffi caramelised flavour and colour.roasted autumn fruits in brambte syrup Early autumn is the time to feature flavourful. F ffi q". then turn each piece to tightty colour the other sides. Leave for about zo seconds until the undersides are beginning to carametise. using a forl< and pour over the syrup. chitt untit and set aside to cool and altow the ftavours to mingle.

then drain in a sieve over a bowl to save the stocl( syrup' or food processor' graduatty 3 Pur6e the pears in a blender pur6e into a adding back the reserved stock syrup' Pour the ice cream bowt. Wittiams or Comice pears' iust riPe but stitt firm juice of r lemon r chunks' Pee[. which has an amazing flavour. then cut into and Place in a large pan with the lemon iuice. refreshing sorbet is an ideal palate cleanser favourite well too. from the freezer' atlow it to 4 lfyou are serving the sorbet Scoop soften stightty at room temperature for ro minutes' crisp with into batls and serve in smatt gtass dishes' dessert biscuits if You tike. t find the flavour of but red Williams and Comice pears work is the bright Forelle. cinnamon out the star anise. then churn in an at once machine to a thicl<. SERVES 4-6 6 Forette. cover and chitt thoroughty. reptace 3 Smiths apptes' The sharpness of the apptes complements the mellow sweetness of the pears perfectty' t i 1bb frull I .pear sorbet This My red-skinned pears is especially good for sorbets' to round off a rich meat. quarter. Stit the vanilta pod tengthways. scrape pod' seeds and add them to the pan with the empty to the boit' 2 Pour the stocK syrup over the pears and bring minutes' or Lower the heat and simmer gently for ro-l5 r cinnamon sticl< 4 star anise r vanitla pod 1i z5omI Stock SYruP (Page 164) untilthe pears soften. seat and store freezer for uP to 2 weeKs. and core the pears. to serve between courses' or as a light dessert simple. Remove the whole spices and vani[[a pod. soft frozen texture' Either serve in the or transfer to a freezer container. Leave the pears to cool in the tiquid. VARIATION pears with Granny For an appte and pear sorbet.

slice the reserved plum halves as thinty as possible and use to line the sides of4 shallow sundae glasses or glass bowls. vanilla pods. then pour into the pan. buy dark-skinned plums at their peak of ripeness. vanitla pods. Serve in elegant bowls or wide glasses lined with wafer-thin plum slices. Bring to the boit. Rub this through a fine chinois or sieve into a bowl with the bacl< of a ladle. Tip the plums and syrup into a blender or food processor and whiz to a smooth pur6e. serve this sensational ice-cold soup rather than a sorbet. then remove the cinnamon. to serve tiquid gtucose. (lllustrated overleaf) SERVES 4 5oog ripe dark red plums 3 tablespoons icing sugar. Cut the rest into quarters. Stir the yogurt untiI smooth and runny. Cover the bowl with cting fitm and chitt the soup untiI required. for about a seeds scraped out wilt do) single layer. then finely pared strips of zest from 1 Orange z star anise turn to lightty cotour the other sides.chitted soup of pan-roasted plums As a refreshing dessert to impress. without moving. then z cinnamon sticks z vanilla pods (empty pods with the immediately tip them into the pan and spread out in zest and star anise. orange zo seconds untiI beginning to carametise underneath. adding the cinnamon. Heat a wide. A spiral of creamy bio yogurt adds a sophisticated finishing touch - no one will guess it's simply squeezed from a plastic bottle. Cool<. Carefu[[y pour in the soup. sifted r Halve and stone the ptums and set aside the 6 best halves to serve. orange zest and star anise. rich colour. z Toss the plum quarters in the icing sugar. shallow heavy-based pan until you can see a faint haze rising. For an intense. then trickle on top ofthe soup and serve. 3 Mix the stocl< syrup with rooml boiting water and the zoomI Stocl< Syrup (page 164) r tablespoon liquid glucose zoog natural creamy bio yogurt. 4 Set aside to coot. Fruit 767 . 5 When ready to serve. then lower the heat and simmer for rc-t5 minutes until the plums are softened.

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Thesimplestfinishesareofrenthemosteffective.TocreatetheeffectitLustratedinthephotograph,putthe

yogurt into a clean (squeezabte) plastic bottle, reptace the top and squeeze a spiral ofthin yogurt on to each portion of soup.

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769

ffi $ftffi T$ffi w. always use leaf gelatine because it softens and dissolves more easily than powdered gelatine, without 'clumping'. However you do need to ensure the liquid you are adding the leaves to is very hot (ust below boiling point) or the setting quality may be adversely affected.

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17

O

Fruit

melon and grape jetty
Fruit jellies are wonderfully refreshing and always popular with our guests. We serve them in small shot glasses topped with o ftoat of singte cream or yogurt. I like to experiment with new flovours - melon with grape is one of our recent successes.

fruit that is soft enough to pur€e, for a clean, fresh taste. A fragrant melon that is almost over-ripe can be used here. Passing the purde through a jelly bag helps to clarify the iuice, but it's not vital. SERVES 4-6
you need o

r

Hatve the melon and scoop out the seeds. Using a

tiny melon batler, scoop out

r [arge, well ripened Galia or
Charentais melon r tablespoon [emon juice

about 16 balts and set aside. z Scoop the remaining melon ftesh from the skin and ptace in a btender or food processor with the temon juice. Pur6e until smooth, then whiz in the stocl< syrup.

rooml Stock Syrup (page 164)
3 sheets leaf gelatine (or z teaspoons

3 For a clear jetty, pour the melon pur6e through a jetty bag suspended from a hool< or a large sieve tined with wet muslin, ptaced over a bow[. Attow the tiquid to drip through (rather than force it) to achieve a clear set. lt may take an hour or so for a[[ the iuice to drip through. You should have around 5oom[. (lf a crystat
clear set isn't your goal, sl<ip this stage.)
(Or soal< powdered 4 Soal< the getatine leaves in cold water to cover untit ftoppy. gelatine in z tablespoons cotd water untit spongy.)

powdered gelatine) 7og smalI seedless grapes

5 Heat the meton juice untilon the point of boiting. Remove the gelatine teaves from the cold water and squeeze out excess. Take the melon iuice offthe heat and stide in the gelatine (or add the softened getatine), stirring untiI dissolved.
Set aside to coo[.

6 Meanwhite, peet the grapes if you tike (but not if you're short of time). Pour a

tittte meton ielty into the base of 4-6 glasses and add a few melon balls and a few grapes. Chitt untit set. Add another layer of cooI tiquid ietly and fruit. Chirt
again untit set. Repeat the layers, chitting each to set, until you reach the top of the glasses. Chitt untit ready to serve.

ffi F'S T$ff s"ning the fruits within the jelly in layers ensures they are evenly distributed. lfyou add them altogether the fruit witl settle in a layer on

f,ffi

the top ofthe ielly.

Fruit

771

a tong.press the sides down stightty to ftute them if necessary. if using. but other ingredients can be used. put a strawberry cream batt in the centre. ? 772 Fruit I . sweetening to taste with a tittte icing sugar. Lay the pineappte horizontatty on a board and cut rz stices as thinty as you possibly can . remove the flavourings. {-}'g$rf}L4 Sitfl. zoog thicl< crdme fraiche a littte sifted icing sugar.#it[i. In this recipe lemon grass provides the flavour. Beat the crame fraiche 4 crush the strawberries with a fork to a rough untitthicl( and fotd in the crushed fruit. then position a larger pineappte slice on top. iust ripe pineaPPte 4oog strawberries put the caster sugar into a pan with 4oomlwater and dissolve over a low heat. serrated knife or electric carving l<nife is ideal for this.ravioli of pineapple with crushed strawberry cream grass. longer. Pour ihe syrup into a bowl and add the lemon grass or lemon zest to infuse the syrup as it coots. Shape the mixture into six batts. stit the [emon grass in half tengthways. when cold.T steepingfresh fruit in stocl<svrup with aromatics lends a subtle ftavour and alters the texture of the fruit to give it a different character. together with balts of crushed strawberry cream. using an ice cream scoop. or strips of finety pared zest from r lemon r large. such as star anise. choose six of the smallest pineappte slices for the base and place one on each dessert plate. to taste 2 peel the pineapple and remove the'eyes'with the tip of a potato peeter or sharp l<nife. and deliciously 2oog caster sugar r r lemon grass stalk. vanilla. then sandwiched Wafer-thin slices of fresh pineapple are macerated overnight in stock syrup infused with lemon 6 SERVES refreshing. Lay the pineappte slices in the syrup as you cut them. untit they soften. simple. mal<ing sure that each is we[[ coated in syrup before you add another. lt shoutd drape over the cream . 3 cover and leave to steep overnight in the fridge.serve as soon as possible. or Drain off the syrup and dab each stice with l(itchen paper to dry stightty' pur6e. then bring to the boit and boitfor 5 minutes. l<irsch or brandv. That's it .

press the bananas tightty through the papillotes with the bacl< of a fori.. and rum if using. over a pan of gentty simmering water. Gas 4. 3 For the papittotes. stirring once or twice.ii1 :'rr-i. using a fish stice. Serve the bananas in their pouches for your guests to open at the table. 5 Transfer the papiltotes to targe serving ptates. pour hatf the cream into a medium saucepan and add the sugar.ThisissimplytheFrenchtermforbakinginpaper. which puffs up and browns in the heat ofthe oven. at least 6o% cocoa solids rzoml double cream half of the paper over the bananas to enctose them and pteat the edges together to sea[.Thefoodis sealed in the paper parce[. then simmer for 2 minutes. Fotd one 7og unsalted butter Chocolate sauce: 8og darl< chocolate. handing round the chocolate souce in a iug. Bring Coramel sauce: slowly to the boit. To mal<e the carameI sauce. lt is an attractive way to present this dish. 174 . A scoop of pistachio or roasted almond ice cream would be a perfect touch. then pour into a jug and set aside to cool. Leave untiI melted. Remove and stir untit smootn. z Meanwhile. They witt l<eep warm for at least ro minutes. while the food inside cool<s in the trapped steam. Remove from 3oomI doubte cream rTog tight muscovado sugar 4 tablespoons tiquid gtucose the heat and whisl< in the remaining cream. warn guests to be careful oftrapped steam as they open up their parcels. measuring 3ocm square. Bananas are baked in paper pouches along with a rich caramel sauce. r-z tablespoons rum (optiona[) 4 Ptace the papitlotes on a bal<ing sheet and bal<e for B-ro minutes depending on the ripeness ofthe bananas.i-:':. To checl< that they are softened. Breal< up the chocotate and place in a heatproof bowt with the cream.1.. Pee[ the bananas and slit each in half lengthways. mal<e the chocotate sauce. though you can simpty bal<e the banana haLves in a foi[-covered shallow dish with the caramel sauce poured over if you prefer. tear off four sheets of greaseproof paper. glucose and butter. i:. place 3 banana halves in the centre of each paper square and drizzle over the caramel sauce.ii''i.caramet bananas en papil[ote with chocolate sauce lf you enioy baked bananas as a dessert then this creamy caramel version should please.r.. finishing SERVES 4 6 just ripe bananas (not too soft) r Preheat the oven to r8ooC. stirring untit smooth. Hand round the chocolate sauce to pour over the bananas.

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Remove to a warm ptate and keep warm' Repeat with the remaining brioche stices. 2 Heat hatfthe butter in a heavy-based frying pan and toss in the peaches' sprinl<te with icing sugar and continue to cook over a high heat untiI nicely caramelised. Score each peach vertically around the middte to the stone' and twist the hatves to separate. then + Quickty dip a brioche slice in the egg. has been a favourite way olusing up stightty stale bread for centuries. such as blueberries trickted with maple syrup. (targe enough to take a stice of 3 Pour the beaten eggs into a shattow dish pan brioche). then piled on top get supplies of superb ltalian white peaches can also be served as a brunch. use sweet yellow peaches here. turn to lift out golden and add to the pan. Wipe out the pan. or even nectarines' Top with for me one of the great treats of the sLlmmer. Add a scoop of mascarpone or whipped cream' dust with icing sugar and serve. You can. Made with fresh brioche it is a great base for other pan-roasted fruits. then ftip over and cool< the other side for about 3o seconds until nicely golden brown. 5 As soon as they are atl cooked. 'Lost bread'as it is PAilf. Heat hatf of the remaining butter with r tablespoon of oil in the 4 targe peaches. or 8 smaller ones roog butter 3-4 tablespoons icing sugar. beaten r-z tablespoons sunflower oil 4 stices brioche loaf mascarpone or whipPed doubte cream. about z-3 minutes. compotes of apricots and pears' and fresh berries.pain perdu with roasted Peaches ofwarm French toasted brioche for a fast dessert. coat the other side. ptace the brioche slices on warm serving plates and spoon the peaches on top. PHRffiU Fruit 77 5 . such as plums and caramelised apptes. Plus extra to dust z large free-range eggs.$ literatly translated. Cut the halves into quarters or eighths depending on size. August to September. Remove the fruits to a ptate and keep warm. cook over a medium-high heat for 45 seconds or unti[ brown. which fragrant peaches are quickly pan-roasted. For a limited season. to serve untilthe butter stops foaming. and a dottop of mascarpone or whipped cream and eat the pain perdu with a knife fork SERVES 4 r lmmerse the peaches in a bowl of boiting hot water for barely 30 seconds' then remove with a stotted spoon and peel away the sl<ins as soon as the fruit is coot enough to handte. we of course. adding more butter and oiI to the pan as necessary. Fresh.

rt.. ur. cream dessert that's perfect for at fresco eating..*. use rong peach' mango or pineapple' if you like' SERVES 4 combination of summer fruits . Chitt untiI required' arrange the fruit kebabs around' a place the bowt of cream on a serving ptate and tiked' Sprinkte the cream with a few lavender flowers if To about rz long dried stall<s of lavender or thin wooden sataY sticks tu&qd' ffi ru ffi i ffi. Altow to heat untit clear.. fragrant served with a lavender infused cream. ro concentrate the flavour' we than fresh flowers. for an easy stalks' Use any thin wooden satay sticks instead ofthe dried ravender serves as a dip. t7 6 Fruit .f. Pour into a small bowl and teaspoons clear honeY z5og smalt strawberries or witd strawberries (fraises de bois) rz5g rasPberries or [oganberries rz5g blueberries rz5g blacl<berries 5og redcurrants 5og white currants serve: 3Huttthestrawberries. Floristsspecialising in dried rt.adding cubes of z tablesPoons caster sugar 4 dried lavender heads 15Og mascarpone lDissolvethecastersugarin4tabtespoonsofwaterinasma[[panoveralow simmer for z minutes.or.o. creamy custards' subtly enhances even chocolate ganache .. Ori. tut.ffi $ F$ fl t$S C #ru S flowers to infuse sugar syrups. The luscious. then add the tavender heads and coot.. For more robust skewers.O'*.Skewertogetherwiththeotherfruitsondriedlavender statl<s or thin satay sticks.summer berry l<ebabs with lavender honey dip lavender stalks and Here flavou(ul berries are skewered on to dried Berries and cream are the ultimate summer sensation. then strain the syrup and reserve' r5oml whiPPing cream 2 2Beatthemascarponeandcreamtogetheruntitsofttystiff'thenfotdinthe chitt' sugar syrup and honey. in a lavender and hang the stems cupboard to drY.l"t picl< your own ftowers are a good source of supply' Alternatively or airing kitchen' dry warm.the tight florat fragrance delicious effea.t .

.'. .::ii #. :.:..

Fresh yeost will give the best texture and flavour. about 45-5o minutes. MAKES r LARGE LOAF 15g fresh yeast r Crumble the yeast into a medium bowl and whisl< in the warmed untit tepid mitl< until dissolved. Place on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and cover loosely with cLing fitm. Blend l/. Sprinl<le semolina. 5 Knock bacl< the dough on a clean surface and shape into a large ovat. Remove and slide on to a wire racl< to coot. Wait for a few minutes untiLthe mixture begins to bubble. rotlthe tops back and forth a few times to smooth. pressing tightty so it stays in place. 3 When the 'sponged'dough is ready. Pain de Mie is best eaten within a day or two. Reduce the setting to r8ooC. in pieces 2 ready when you can press it and leave a thumbprint. and the loaf sounds hotlow when tapped on the base. though you can use dried yeast. to sprinkle oi[. teaspoons caster sugar 4 tablespoons cold miik 4 Place the dough in a bow[. add to the flour welt with the cold milk and flour (preferably organic. teaspoons with a little of the tepid mill< and z tablespoons of the soft flour. z Meanwhile. Knead vigorousty for 5-ro minutes. 6 Spray the baking sheet around the risen dough with cold water. Meanwhile. or fine sea salt mix to a soft dough. either in a machine with a dough hook. or by hand on a very tightly floured work surface. preheat the oven to zoooC.pain de mie This gorgeous French bread is a cross between a brioche and a simple white loaf. Place the dough on the baking sheet and leave to prove until doubled in size. oastries and cakes . Then beat in the rz5g plain flour until quite smooth. ffi&flru WW WWW WffiL|*ffi shape the dough into 8 balls. rz5mlwhole (zooC) miU<.SY tryou cannot obJain rresh yeast. then bake at zoooC. Yffi&. Cover with cting fitm and leave in a warm place (such as an airing cupboard at about zSoC) for about r hour rz5g plain white flour (preferably organic. or shaped into 8 rolls. dough can be baked free form as a cob. then stir in the sugar. Make a well in the centre. unbleached) 16o9 strong white to'sponge'. then immediately bal<e for ro minutes. I recommend ordinary dried active yeast here (rather than fast-action). unbleached) 1 teaspoon crushed Maldon salt. Gas 6. lt is quite to easy to make. Continue as above. The secret is to make a yeast'sponge'first to get the yeast active. Gas 6 for just rz minutes. The dough is zog butter. sift the strong flour and satt into a bowl and rub in the butter. Gas 4 and bal<e for a further r5-zo minutes or until golden brown and crisp. Leave to prove until doubled in size. B-JSgffi ffi3ffi g ffi Kft ffi l8O Ftour: breads. then press them into a bowl containing some semolina. or in a round tin. to brush the top with semotina. Oil a heavy bal<ing sheet and sprinl<le the base tiberatty with semotina. then mix in the remaining tepid milk and soft ftour. especially if you The have a mixer with a dough hook. coverwith cting fitm and leave in a warm spot (z8oC) for about r hour until doubted in butl<.

r(eep one coverec while you roll out the other to an ova[. about z5-3ocm long and ro-rzcm wide. about 20x73cm. Brusn the fougasse tiberatty with the remaining otive oil as thev cool. using a very sharp l<nife. flavoured with sun-dried tomatoes ond herbs. Repeat to mal<e another fougasse with the remaining dough. or 3o minutes or so. place r4og of the flour in a [arge bowl and mix in teaspoons ofthe yeast. then fold the bottom 1-2 teaspoons dried oregano third up to the centre and the top third over that .sponged' mixture with the rest of the strong ftour. Flour: breads.to give a rectangle. but now more often made with a trvoury twist. fold and roll one more time. then immediatety bal<e for about r5 minutes until browned and crisp. until it begins to rise. cover with cting fitm and [eave in a '. plus extra to dust 79 sachet fast-action dried yeast r/. instead of sun-dried tomatoes ano chives. Gas 7. remaining yeast and r tablespoon of the otive oit. originally an orange-scented sweet dough. scatter the tomato pieces and chives or oregano over the dough. rotl out to a 4ocm square. 3 Turn 3ooml bottled sti[[ spring water 8og rye flour r'l teaspoons crushed Maldon satt the dough on to a tightty floured surface and r<nead firmry for about 5 minutes. 5 Fotd the sides into the middte. pat the sun-dried tomatoes dry with l<itchen paper if necessary and cut into smalI bite'sized pieces. This version. Leave in a warm ptace untit doubted in size. preheat the oven ro zzooc. Ro[ (or putt and pat) the dough out again to a square. 9 Meanwhile. unbleached). spray the bal<ing sheets around each fougasse with water.sponge.. Mix thoroughly. (lllustrated overleaf) MAKES z ""0rm - r To mal<e the 'sponge'.c) for Filling: rz5g semi-soft sun-dried tomatoes or a z8og jar. Transfer to a ctean bowl.sun -d ried tomato fougasse -cugasse is the great ProvenEal rich flat bread. swapping the bal<ing sheets hatfway through cool<ing. Using a rolting pin. salt. either side of the middte. 8 Brush with a tittte more otive oiI and cover toosety with cting film. untilyou have a smooth.varm place (such as an airing cupboard) for about rl 42og strong white flour (preferabty organic. pastries and cajres 181 . 6 Divide the dough in hatf and shape each piece into a rog. about 3o minutes. 7 Lift the dough on to a bal<ing sheet [ined with bal<ing parchment and slash the top quite deeply at an angle.hours to . the rye ftour. is my favourite especially eaten aL fresco on a summer evening' To give the dough a head start. 4 Meanwhile. sprinl<te the top with crushed Maldon sea salt ftal<es just before bal<ing. you need to make a yeast 'sponge'. fairty soft dough. vARlATl0N scatter roog chopped pitted blacl< or green olives and r tablespoon snipped rosemary over the rotled-out dough. z Now heat the remaining r8omI water untit tepid and beat into the . Knocl< the risen dough bacl< on a tightty flourec surface. drained 4 tablespoons chopped chives. add to the iLour and beat for r-z minutes untitsmooth. Heat rzoml ofthe water untit tepid (zo"c). or fine sea salt 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oit cover with cting fitm and leave to rise in a warm ptace (at about zg.

(Put the other half in a dried clean ptastic container and refrigerate or freeze for another batch of sourdough') a bow[. to dust sunflower oit. Then turn the temperature down to zoooC. finelY crushed or fine sea satt you can press it and teave a thumbprint. then turn out on to a clean surface. minutes. if using. r unbleached) 1259 rye flour. about 6oo9. You need to a r5og organic low-fat live bio yogurt 5og organic currants. knead again for about 3 bow[. unbleached) 125g strong wholemeaI with cting fitm and leave in a warm place untitthe mixtures bubbtes' about:. yogurt and For this clqssic sourdough. then return to the 7 Knock bacl< the dough. hatf-fitted with boiting water on a lower oven shetf.sourdough apple iuice. preheat the oven to z5ooC. Gas 6 and cool< for another z5-30 minutes untitthe crust is mid-brown in colour and the bread sounds holtow when tapped underneath. into and stir brisl<ty to dissolve. process' MAKES z OR 3 LOAVES airing cupboard or draught-free spot in a warm kitchen. cover with cting fitm and leave in a warm place for about I hour until doubled in size. Ptace the batons wetl apart on this and make 4 or 5 diagonat stashes along each one with a razor-sharp knife. Ptace in a tightty oited bowl. like an currants introduce natural yeasts that feed on the flours and bubble into tivety. Ro[tthese into batons. Beat wetl for about 5 minutes to a smooth. you need to make a yeast starter. 25-3ocm tong. Ptace the bal<ing sheet hotding the batons on a higher shetf and bal<e for 5 minutes. to oil g Knockthe dough bacl<again and divide into z or3 equa[ pieces. thicl< batter. Repeat this process for a total of 5 days by which time you should have tivety fermenting starter. yogurt and currants. Organic A warm dry place. Gas 9 and boit the kettte. cover and leave in a warm place (such as For an airing cupboard at about z8oC) for z4 hours. roomI organic (unfittered) appte iuice extra white flour and semolina. tasty ferments.as you l<nead. mix with the water and z pinches of caster sugar and leave for about 10 minutes until it begins to 'sponge. cover and store as above. place both ftours in a plastic bowl with the appte iuice. rye and remaining juice. then sprinkte the top tightty with rye ftour. plus up to r5og extra the starter. onty dusting the surface very tightty with ftour if necessary . Mix with your large mixing bowt. add the tepid water 3 For the bread. The dough is ready when flour 5og rye flour z teaspoons Matdon salt. CooI on a wire racl<. white flour with the satt in a warm 5 combine the whotemeat. 784 Flour: breads. cover and leave to prove for another hour. washed and use half. Sprinl<te tightty with white flour and leave in a warm spot untit risen by about a third. oita large non-stick heavy bal<ing sheet and dust with semolina. or z teaspoons dried active yeast and a little caster sugar zoomI tepid spring water (zooC) 4 3oog rye starter (from above) 3Z5g strong white flour (preferably organic.' Mix the yeast tiquid with the rye starter and hatf the white flour. the dough witt become smooth and less sticl<y. 6 l(nead wett. Meanwhite. helps the fermentation Starter: 125g strong ftour (preferably organic. lf using dried yeast. crumble the fresh yeast. pastries and cakes . Cover loosely Breod: rog fresh yeast. hour. g put a roasting tin. a good 4-5 days ahead. Add the bubbting yeast dough and apple hands untit the dough no longer feets sticl<y. to sprinl<le rTomI organic (unfittered) apple iuice z Lightty beat the starter and sprinkte again with rye flour.

.t! 3r'.t1 #i..-.€il$:q&{i*1 . peeled. Co:tinue from stage 8.-ji. then puil the top doivn a thrrd and the bottom up and over that.S. ?i"':t .. FoLd the sides into the middle. Rotl and fotd once more. Roll out to a large rectangle. .. .. to make a rectangle.:i-.1'.5cm chunks. and scatter eveniy almost to the edges with a medium Bramley apple. about rcm thicl<.:ii.ririsdericiousservedwithcheese. then cover and leave to rise again for about r hour.Mal<eupthebasicsourdoughrorheendor stage 6. .i-i :il:. F\Ft#i-fl.:::i.:li:.r..''i i.i.:::--:.S"E rr. 4. cored and cut into r.$$.

T"#FPfrffiffi". or folded Parma ham. but blinis make good starters with less expensive toppings (see below). For an unusual topping. blinis warm. 4 Whisk the egg whites in a ctean bow[ to soft peal<s. then /. Allow two per person. The blinis won't be as neatly rounded. crumble in the fresh yeast and stir briskty until roomI milk. then cook spoonfuls of batter in a large heavy-based frying pan. gradually adding the rest of the yeasty milk and the beer. Or top with lemon mayonnaise and flaked gritled salmon. you shoutd have sufficient batter to make rz btinis. for a stow rise. Alternativety. heated until tepid r5g fresh yeast (or fast-action dried yeast. about 8cm in diameter. spoon on a LittLe fig jam and top with slices of Duck'Bresaola' (page 6o). checl< that the underside is brown. Make a well in the centre and add the egg yotl< and hatf of the yeast mixture. Melt a l<nob of a butter in each pan and heat until you can feeI a strong heat rising. For smaller thicker blinis. Beat to a thick batter with a whisk. see below) 55g strong ptain flour 45g buckwheat flour dissolved. it witt take about 4 hours to bubbte. Flour: breads. Loosen the edges with a palette l<nife.teaspoon fine sea salt r free-range egg yolk z tabtespoons beer z free-range egg whites 2 teaspoons sugar butter.buckwheat btinis Large wafer-thin cr€pes made with buckwheat flour are popular across northern France. then cooked in small cast-iron blini pans. the buckwheat batter is fermented with a little yeast to lighten and flavour it. then whisk in the sugar. Spoon tadtefutof batter into each pan and cool< for 7-Ty2minuIes until the surface is covered with tiny bubbles and no longer lool<s wet on the surface. leave the batter in the fridge. If you haven't any ofthese pans. like drop scones. 5 Tal<e one or two cast-iron blini pans. SERVES 6 AS A STARTER r Put the tepid mitk into a jug. topped with a doltop of thick soured cream or crdme fraiche and smoked salmon scrunched into rosettes. and the sides lool< cooked. Soured cream and caviar is the traditional topping. with your preferred toppings (see betow). but the flavour and texture will be just as good.ru. pastries and cal<es 187 . page r88) is an ideaI vegetarian option. 3 Cover with cting film and leave in a warm spot for about an hour or until bubbtes start to appear and the mixture looks as if it is expanding. then flip over and cool< for a minute on the other side. 6 Stacl< the btinis in a fotded clean tea towel to l<eep them warm white you cool< the rest. to fry fotd in the remaining whites. standing on a damp ctoth to hotd it steady. using a spatula. Beat a spoonfuI of the whisl<ed egg whites into the btini batter to loosen it. Serve warm.% S. z Mix the two ftours and salt together in a large bow[. The shalLot and cep topping (from Caramelised Cep Tarts.

then remove the top bal<ing sheet parchment. to serve then leaves from the thyme sprig. scatter over the Parmesan shavings and serve warm. stirring often. chop and fry with the fresh mushrooms. be then drain. Pricl< the dough and place on a heavy non-stick 6. Heat hatf the butter and r tablespoon olive oil in a saucepan. finely choPPed r thyme sPrig sea salt and freshlY ground blacl< 4 pepper z5g Parmesan cheese. pur6e and pastry discs. pastries and cakes . Add the shallots. season food for another few minutes untiI reduced right down' Transfer to a blender or processor and whiz untit smooth and creamy' Set aside' parchment and place another flat heavy 3 cover the pastry discs with bal<ing and bal<ing sheet on top. cook for a further 2-3 minutes' remove from the heat.caramelised cep tarts purde. with trimmings (optionat) 3 tablespoons chicl<en stock or white wine z tablespoons double cream z5og fresh ceps. spread the onion pur6e thicl<ty 5 Lightty warm the onion over the pastry and arrange the caramelised ceps on top. Add the onion. make the onion pur€e. Return the pastry discs to the oven for up to 3 minutes untiI gotden brown and crisp. Rest in the refrigerator white you heat the oven to zoooc. stir in the stock or wine and cream. The soal<ing liquor can strained and used instead of the stock or wine' r88 Flour: breads. and saut6 gentty for up to 15 minutes untiI softened but not co[oured. then topped with caramelised ceps and Wafer-thin puff pastry discs are covered with a layer of creamy onion stock' parmesan shavings. Bal<e for rz minutes. use thinly pack of sticed. Remove and carefutty transfer to a wire rack' ceps Heat the remaining butter and otive oit in a saut6 pan. or simpty for a cheaper option. This recipe is suitable for vegetarians if you omit the bacon and use white wine rather than chicken SERVES 4 AS A STARTER oR LIGHT MEAL 35og Puff Pastry (Page r9o) 5og butter z tablespoons olive oil r Rot[ out the pastry to the thicl<ness of a fr coin and cut out four rzcm discs. VARIATION when fresh ceps are not in season. baking sheet. Gas r large Spanish onion. Pared into shavings. with the bacon trimmings if using. about 5 minutes. large portobetto mushrooms and enhance the ftavour with a rog dried porcini mushrooms. Soal< the dried mushrooms in hot water for ro minutes. thinty sticed z5g smol<ed bacon or Pancetta z Meanwhite. cleaned and thintY sticed z shallots. using a smatl saucer as a guide. then add the sliced the and saut6 untiI nicety caramelised. and cool( Remove the bacon pieces. and seasoning.

To obtain wafer-thin flat pastry bases. .I love the light crispness of puff pastry but not al[ those deep puffy layers.the perfect foil for a caramelised shaltot ard cep topping. I bal<e puft pastry discs between two heavy baking sheets. -his impedes rising and produces meLt-in"the-mouth crisp pastry .

and a wonderful half' Make up a batch and recipe calls for z5og puff pastry use a quarter ofthis recipe. {'{ il il' S 5. This is best 3 Now.twice 4 On a tightty ftoured surface. Fotd as before.n pastry rises best when the fat has been incorporated into the flour dough in very fine. z5 x35cm rectangle . z Add the vinegar and tricl(te in the ice-cotd water. divide into corner of the dough to corresPond with the number of rollings. Mal<e sure the edges and corners are straight and neat. This can be done in a food processor. of butter. then bottom over. mixing with a table l<nife untit it comes together as a smooth dough. wrap and chitt the dough at the same time . 74x2ocm. cut into chunks 5oog plain flour 1f teaspoon fine sea salt r Divide the butter into 45og and 5og portions. This depends on the flour. To keeP tabs on the number of rollings after each folding. tease the dough into shape. Simpty pat or pull the dough into line. This is one ofthe secrets ofsuccess. for 35og use a third.r'. t9O Ftour: breads. of the rotted dough and fotd 5 ptace the chitted butter rectangle on the longend the dough in two to comptetely enctose the butter. freezing any you don't need to use now' MAKES r'zkg 5oog butter.fli{. For this reason it is important to always the edges ofthe dough are as straight as Possible when rolting and folding. then wrap in cting film and chitt for another zo minutes. press a fingertiP into the mal<e sure direction. 6 Rott out the dough in one direction only until it is three times the tength. or longer in warm weather. making sure none ofthe butter breaks through. that is top to centre. for 5oog use divide into portions.puff pastry melt'in-the-mouth texture' lf a Homemade puff pastry certainly has a richer flavour than ready'made puff.. even laYers. pastries and cal<es . spoon this mixture out on l teaspoon white wine vinegar about 3oomI ice-cotd water fitm and shape into a rectangle. Press the edges ofthe dough together to seat in the butter. a third time. Fold as before. wrap well in cting fitm and chitt untit firm. rolt out the dough to a the size ofthe butter. lfnecessary.both for around zo minutes. Give the dough a quarter turn and roll it out again in one i.ffi Li't" p. tightty dusting with ftour as necessary. mix the remaining 5og flour into the remaining 45og large sheet of cting to a done using an electric mixer. bringing the top third the bottom third on top. Finatly. g Unwrap with the fotd to the same side as before and roll out for portions as dictated by your recipe. down to the centre' then folding 7 Fotd the dough in three. You may not need a[[ the water. or you may need a tittte more. l<eeping those edges neat. set aside 5og of the ftour' sift the rest of the ftour with the salt into a bowl and rub in the 5og of the butter untiI the mixture lool<s [ike fine breadcrumbs.

With the machine on its lowest speed. This hetps to prevent it cracl<ing as you roll it. moke this pastry in an electric mixer. Stop the machine once or twice and scrape down the sides. 4 Gather the dough and ptace on a tightty floured surface./:. each ofthese portions wilL be sufficient to line a 27-23 cm taft tin. I teaspoon fine sea salt I i"-. Briefty l<nead it with your hands until smooth. As soon as the mixture comes together as a crumbly dough. beaten 5oog plain flour flour in 3 or 4 stages. scrape out the seeds and add these to the mixture.' l lf you divide the pdte sucr6e dough into 3 equal portions. freezing any portions you don't need now for later use. Make up a big batch and divide into 3 or 4 portions. 5 Before rolling out. Wrap portions you don't need to use immediately in freezer film and freeze. MAKES ABOUT rkg r Using an electric mixer.. Sptit open the vanilla pods. pastries and cal<es 797 . Double wrap in freezer film to freeze and give the dough a tight kneading after thawing. beat the butter and sugar together untilsmooth and z5og butter. 3 Sift the ftour and salt together. then knead lightly by hand. -'. l<nead the pastry again very tightty. Divide into 3 or 4 batches and wrap in cling film. Leave to rest in the refrigerator for 3o minutes before rolling out. graduatty add the eggs. don't over-worl< it. Flour: breads. add the 3-4 vanilla pods z large free-range eggs. softened to room temperature 18og caster sugar creamy. z With the machine running on slow speed. but not ftuffy. For best results. stop the machine.pite SUCree This is one of the standard pastries we use for tarts.

wrap in cting fitm and chitt for about 3o minutes. stir I teaspoon fine sea salt your in the nuts and flour and mix to a smooth soft dough. f92 Ftour: breads. beat together the butter. Gas 4. light crisp biscuits like these have many applications in our desserts. Return to the oven and bal<e for another 5 minutes or untiI pale golden. if you can resist nibbling your way through the freeze them and remove a few at a time as entire batch. using a 5-6cm cutter. lift on to the bal<ing sheet and place a second heavy bal<ing sheet on top. That is. icing sugar and salt untit tight and ftuffy. Ptace the dough between the parchment sheets and rotl out to a rcm thicl<ness. They witl keep crisp for up you need them. return to the oven for a minute or so to soften. We sit to a week in an airtight tin' or you can accompany ice creams. When coot. Hotding the edges of the paper. so that the dough is sandwiched between both parchment and bal<ing sheets. pastries and cakes . lf the dough starts to harden before you finish cutting. sifted r In a bowt. roasted fruits and fruit compotes. then remove the parchment. each the size of a heavy bal<ing sheet. softened 45g icing sugar. hands. immediatety rounds as you can white the dough is stilt soft. z5g toasted choPPed hazelnuts rz5g plain flour z Tear off two sheets of bal<ing parchment. store the biscuits in an airtight tin. with the top baking parchment stitt dough as thinty as you can. as they are seriously more-tsh' MAKES zo-24 roog unsalted butter. using a palette l<nife. l<neading gently with preheat the Meanwhile. roll the half-baked in bal<ing sheet. and tift off the top 3 Bal<e for 5 minutes. oven to r8ooC. then remove to a heatproof surface ptace. tift these on to a wire tray to cooI and crisp. of course.hazelnut sablds crEme brAEes on them and use them to Thin. cut out as many 4 Remove from the oven and.

Gas 6.banana and rum tatins This is one of the recipes that earned my Head Chef at Claridges. then scrunch into a ba[[ and l<nead lightty untit smooth. but designated for a different role. ro mal<e hatf-moon shapes. Cut the pastry around the bananas. lmmediatety tal<e off the heat and stir in the rum . BoiI to a medium darl< brown carame[. 5 Peel each banana. crEme fraiche. to dust (optional) again. (You may find it easier if you first saturate the sugar with z tablespoons cold water. cream or cr6me fraiche Dried Banana Slices (page 16z. stightty unripe bananas serve: butter with the sugar. Preheat the oven to zoooC. rotI out on a tightty ftoured surface to the thicl<ness of a fr coin. 4 lf using fresh 'virgin'pastry. then wrap and chill to rest. Leave to stand for a minute or so. shal<ing the pan to blend the 3oog Puff Pastry (page r9o) or trimmings (see betow) z large. or 'seconds' as we call them. Cool untiI set. moutd them gently into rectangles. We gather them together. leaving a rcm border atl round. this time more thinty than before. These 'seconds' cook to tight. These trimmings are not discarded. Serve with a scoop of ice cream ptaced on a tF{ ffif. Trickle over the carameliseo pan juices and top with a vanilla fan. pastries and cal<es 193 . 6 When ready to serve. the Chef of the Year zooz award. Dust tightty with icing sugar to serve. place the tin on a heavy bal<ing sheet and cool< in ihe oven for about rz-r5 minutes untitthe pastry is tight gotden brown and crisp. Put the sugar into a heavy-based saucepan and heat very gently untiI it metts. doesn't need to reach the sides. then slide a palette l<nife under each banana and carefully tift and ftip over on to a warmed ptate.) z Add the butter and melt over a medium heat. anci drape the pastry crescents over them. Rest in the fridge for at least 3o minutes. cut-side down. lot of puff pastry and have plenty of trimmings from the first rolting. or accompany with cream or crdme fraiche. and place rounded-side down on the pastry. Mark Sargeant (or Sarge as he is better known). Transfer the bananas to a board. stice in half tengthways. but do not a[low it to burn. it Vanitta Fans (page r58) ice cream. then ptace cut-side down on the set caramet. or roll out trimmings in the same way. or vanilla or rum and raisin ice cream. 3 Pour the caramel into the cast-iron pan or Swiss roll tin and spread with the bacl< of a spoon To to leveI and cover an area that wil[ tal<e the 4 banana halves. crisp pastry that doesn't rise too much - perfect for the above tatins and our ftat tart bases. Serve with cream. Press the pastry to the sides ofthe bananas and trim away any excess. (lllustrated overleaf) SERVES 4 r Have ready a large cast-iron frying pan (suitable for use in the oven) or a Swiss 8og caster sugar 8og butter.-ffi "$ffiflffiffiY we use a dried banana slice for optimum effect. flour: breads. Roll out optionat) icing sugar. in small pieces z tablespoons darl< rum rotl tin.it witt splutter.

and the tatins need to be bal<ed just before serving.: i:ii-:lrtiii :!iLil"l1iil'E-Theingredientsforthisdessertaresimpte-thesecrettiesinthetechnique. Flour: breads. pastries and cakes 195 .{. youwiLt needpuff pastry that crisps but doesn't rise too much.

cover finely grated zest of r lemon 3 tablesPoons desiccated coconut. quarter and sprinl<te the sugar over them' butter in a targe frying pan. trim the overhanging neatty level with the top of the tin' to brush into the ftan case' Mett the remaining butter and use 5 Spoon the apptes each one tike a crumpted tissue' each fito sheet tightty on both sides. resourcefulwithdrystores. stirring occasionatly. coconut and sultanas' Set aside' sheet and bake 'btind'for about r5 minutes' 4 Ptace the ftan tin on a bal<ing Removethepaperorfoitandbeansandreturntheflancasetotheovenfor 5 minutes pastry untiI to cook the base. omit the fito' Beat together desiccatedcoconutandzeggs. pastries and caKes .Thiscomforting.Gas6. Dust with a little more icing sugar VARIATION For a 12og caster sugar' 12og different topping.croustade of aPPle and coconut in the kitchens of of the great and good top chefs' I had a wonderful time Before my formative period in the Paris kitchens suppliers and learnt to be when it snowed hard' we were cut off from our the Hotel Diva.easydessertWascreatedinthosedays. tine with greaseproof paper about rcm overhanging the top edge. located in a ski resort above Nice.Puithesuttanasinabow[. pat dry with kitchen paper' with boiting water and leave for 15 minutes' Drain and hatfthe core the apptes.zminutes.Removefromtheheatandstirinthegrated citrus zests.about:. then cut into r'5cm cubes' Heat tightty toasted about toog filo PastrY sheets icing sugar.Spoonthisontopoftheapplesandbakefor turns golden brown' rz-r5 minutes untitthe topping puffs up stightty and tg6 Ftour: breads.preheattheoventozoooC. scrunching sugar' of the apples to cover them. untitthe apptes caramelised. then rest in the fridge zMeanwhite. with a sharp knife. Pricl< the for 3o minutes' or foit and bal<ing beans.serveitwithCremeAnglaise(pagery)' ideally infused with a few mint leaves' SERVES 6 (Page r9r) 35og Pate 5ucr6e r surface and use to line a zrcm flan Rolt out the pastry thinty on a tightty ftoured roog sultanas 6 Granny Smiths aPPles tin. toss in the apptes and are iust tender and tightty Cool<. to dust 3 Peel.thatisatleastz. then dust with icing Ptace on top the fito topping is crisp and 6 Bal<e the ftan for another rz-r5 minutes untit to serve' golden brown.5cmdeep'Pressthepastrywettintothesidesandleave roog butter 5og demerara sugar finety grated zest of r orange base.

then pass through a sieve. Remove from the oven and brush with the lam gtaze white stitl warm. trim the overhanging pastry untiI neatly tevel with the top of the tin. creamy batter. then unmoutd and slide on to a flat ptate. set aside to cool rz59 ground almonds 1259 caster sugar z5g plain flour 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional) while you mal<e the fitting. ftour. serve warm. stir briefty. rubbing gently with the bacl( of a wooden spoon. spoon into the ftan tin and [eve[ the surface. softened to room temperature edge. As a variation. Pricl< the base. Flour: breads. Using a sharp l<nife.plum and almond tart family size version of the little plum tarts we feature on our dessert menus is ideal for a Sundav lunch. Put the butter. We mal<e up a large batch of this glaze and store it in a screwtopped jar in the fridge ready to use. Leave to coot stightty in the tin. stone if necessary. place in a small bowl and sprinl<le with z-3 tablespoons Armagnac or cognac. firm and golden brown. Press the pastry wetl into the sides and leave about rcm overhanging the top rz59 unsatted butter. then cut each hatf into 4 wedges. then rest in the fridge for zo minutes. line with greaseproof paper or foit and bal<ing beans. then drain. remove the stones. r large free-range egg 3-4 tablespoons apricot or plum jam gtaze (see below) 4 Bal<e the flan for 3o-35 minutes untiI risen. pastries and cal<es 197 . glossy sheen to a home baked tart. 2 Preheat the oven to zoooc. you could use mi-cuit prunes instead of plums. lt is best served freshly baked and warm. ground almonds. and lower the oven setting to r5ooC. placing them sl<in-side up. !1i-L t-: This gives a tempting. VARIATION Instead of the plums. use 6-8 French mi-cuit Agen prunes for the fitting. Remove the paper or foit and beans and return the flan case to the oven for 5 minutes to cool< the base. cut into wedges.5cm deep with a removable base. Gas 5. then drain and use in the same way as the ptum wedges. ripe dark red plums use to [ine a25cm flan tin. Nestte the plum wedges into the mixture. and cut the prunes into quarters. Heat until bubbling.i. 3 For the fitting. hatve the plums.. and egg in a food processor and whiz to a smooth. First soal< them in hot Earl Grey tea to cover for about z-3 hours. cinnamon if using. ptace the tart tin on a heavy bal<ing sheet and bal<e blind for r5 minutes. Simpty warm about 4 tablespoons apricot or plum jam in a small pan with t-z tablespoons water and a squeeze of lemon f . Leave to macerate overnight. etq'" \ ':.n& a' juice untiI the jam melts. that is at least z. sugar. Gas z. SERVES 6-8 This r Rol[ out the pastry on a tightly floured surface to the thicl<ness of a fr coin and 5oog Pite Sucr6e (page r9r) 4 large.

'. 5 Using a pastry brush.passion fruit and orange tart fruity taste. A thin whisper of dork chocolate lines the tart case. Stand the flan tin on a bal<ingsheet and place on the middle shetf of the oven. spread the chocolate eventy and thinly over the base and up the sides of the pastry case. break up the chocotate and mett in a small heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. then rest in the fridge for zo minutes. but stil[ runny. ideally white the pastry is stitt stightty warm. Serve cut into wedges. SERVES 6-8 This tart is an elegant variation of the classic French tarte au citron.fif. set aside to coo[. then carefully unmould and cut into wedges. light caramelised finish. Pass through a sieve into jug. Set aside to cool and lower the oven setting to r5ooC. dust the chiLted tart with a light even layer of sifted icing sugar. ideatty to a 3mm thicl<ness. puttingthe shelf out as far as it is safe to do. adding a hint of contrasting flavour. Allow the chocolate to cooI until tepid. The fitting witt continue to firm up as it cools. For an intensely r Hatve the passion fruit. 3 Stand the ftan tin on a bal<ing sheet and bal<e blind for r5 minutes. 35og Pdte Sucr6e (page r9r) 4og darl< chocolate 25og caster sugar z Rol[ out the pastry as thinty as possible. then immediately caramelise by waving a cook's blowtorch over the surface. it also helps to prevent the creamy passion fruit filling softening the pastry. Bring to the boiI and boit until reduced by hatf. simpty pinch the dough together to mend the cracks. sugar.ffiH'"fl ro. beat the reduced fruit juice. cream and eggs together in bowl untiI smooth. scoop outthe putp into a saucepan and add the orange a 6 ripe. Lift it on the rolling pin into a 2r-22cm ftan tin that is about zcm deep with a removabte base. Carefutty push the oven shelf and tart bacl< into the oven and bake for 35-4o a flffi#f. Pricl< the base. 6 For the fitting. line with greaseproof paper or foil and bal<ing beans. wrinl<[ed passion fruits 35omI fresh orange juice luice. Florr: breads. 4 Meanwhile. rubbing with the bacl< of a wooden spoon to extract the juice from the passion fruit seeds. Press the pastry well into the sides and leave about rcm overhanging the top edge. Pour the fitting into the case until it reaches the top.S 5 . Gas 6. You should have around z5om[. Don't worry if the pastry cracl<s as zoomI double cream 6 medium free-range eggs you press it in.u minutes until the top forms a light crust and appears to be tightty set. Meanwhile. Gas z. although it may stitt be stightty soft in the centre. I first boil the passion fruit juice and orange to reduce and concentrate the flavour. with a scoop of vanilla ice cream if you like. Remove the paper or foit and beans and return the flan case to the oven for 5 minutes untiI the base is pate golden and crisp. 7 Carefutty remove the tart from the oven and a[[ow to cool. preheat the oven to zoooC. Chitt untit ready to serve. carefulty trim the overhanging pastry until neatly [eve[ with the top ofthe tin. Using a sharp l<nife. on a tightty ftoured surface. Attow to coot and set. or in the microwave on medium for about z minutes. then strain through a sieve into a lug. pastries and cal<es 199 .

then cut on cooling. mix in 5og finety grated mature Cheddar or Parmesan and I teaspoon powdered Engtish mustard and sprinkte the tops with a tittle more grated cheese before baking. shape and bake. ffffiffi g4'S Tfr ffi ro save time. 2OO Flour: breads. spilt and buttered . Pour about three quarters into the flour mixture and quicl<ty mix together with a [arge table l<nife. z In another bowt. Add the butter in tittte pieces and rub it in using the tips of your fingers and tifting the flour up high so you aerate it. pat the dough into a 2. To check that the scones are ready. when the butter is incorporated the mixture should look to dust 5og sultanas like fine breadcrumbs. softened r tablespoon caster sugar.with or without clotted cream and homemade strowberry iam. Do not over-mix r large free-range egg roomI ice-cold milk. while stilt warm' VARIATIONS Omit the sultanas and add r teaspoon ground cinnamon or mixed spice to the ftour. omit the sugar and sultanas. Bake for about z5 minutes. pastries and cal(es . lightty squeeze the sides of one . Line a bal<ing sheet with bal<ing parchment. beat the egg with the mitl<. brush the tops with mitl< and sprinl<te tightty with extra sugar. Or. plus extra to glaze . Scones ore always best eaten fresh MAKES 8-ro oven. keeping the edges straight. Using a 6cm cutter.5cm thicl<ness. for savoury scones. Stir in the caster sugar. yet still rise beautifully. Homemade ones are than is usual very little time to mix the dough.the dough shoutd be springy. then cut into squares. press out as many rounds as you can. z5og self-raising flour 1 r Preheat the oven to r8ooc. Gas 4. Eat the scones within an hour or so of bal<ing. I find that baking scones at a lower temperature and warm from the ensures that they remain soft on the outside. adding extra egg and mill< mix as necessary to give a soft but not sticl<y dough.5cm thicl< round and score the top into 8 wedges. simply pat the dough out to a 2. plus extra z sift the ftour.the quicl<er and tighter the mixing the higher your scones will rise' gentty roll with a rolting 3 Tip the dough on to a tightty ftoured surface and very pin or pat out with your fingers to a 2-2. pat it out. teaspoon baking Powder good pinch offine sea salt 45g unsalted butter. Alternatively.perfect scones so much better and it takes t despair that so many people have only ever tosted mass produced scones. Bake for zo-25 minutes untiI risen and gotden brown.5cm thick square with your hands. then the suttanas. stide off on to a wire rack and coot. baking powder and salt together into a large bowt. Gentty re-shape and tightty roll the trimmings to cut out a couple more rounds if you can' 4 Place the rounds on the tined baking sheet.

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bake the mixture in a Swiss roll tin and cut out small rounds to sandwich with crushed fruits and whipped cream. Melt att the butter untit just runny and cool untiI tepid. Atternatively. to dust summer berries. Beat. sandwich together with whipped cream ftavoured with stocl< Syrup infused with lemon grass (page 164) and crushed raspberries' 2O2 Flourr breads. VARIATIONS Bake the mixture in a lined and greased deep z5cm round cal<e tin for 5o-6o flfi"{ffifl-S ffiffiilffiffiT Li' minutes.of-eight motion gentty incorporate into the mixture. Preheat the oven to r6ooc. bal<e the mixture in a shattow Swiss rotl tin for cake has a rich buttery flavour with a light sponge texture. Use an electric mixer with a whisk attachment if you have one. pastries and cakes . sptit and fitt with cream and crushed fruits. with summer berries and whipped cream. ud5 J. Alternatively. about zo minutes. ptus rog extra to grease tin r Finety grate the zest from the lemons and set aside. then dust with icing sugar to serve. then dust tiberatty with ftour and tap out the excess. plus extra to dust 2 z Use r tablespoon of the melted butter to grease a zzcm l<ugelhopf ring mould. or untit a skewer inserted in the middle comes icing sugar. until pale gotden and thicl< enough to leave a traitwhen the beaters are [ifted. and add them to the sugar. Sift together the ftour and baking powder' 3zog plain flour. Pour the cream and runny butter down the sides of the bowt and. then remove the tin and leave to cool completety. This may tal<e up to ro minutes' teaspoons bal<ing Powder 5 medium free-range eggs 35og caster sugar r vanilla pod r5omI singte cream serve: To 4 Remove the bowt from the mixer and gentty fotd in the ftour and lemon zest. After cooting. such as strawberries and raspberries whipped cream out clean. trim the edges and cut out rounds. SERVES ro 4 large unwaxed lemons. After cooling. retaining as much of the volume as possible. which can be used in a variety of to slice and fill deep tin a round different occasions. 6 Invert on to a wire racl< and leave to coolwith the tin over the cal<e for ro minutes. then carefutly folding in melted runny butter and cream to keep the mixture light. you can bake it in Madeleine trays or bun tins. this is a truly nulti-purpose cake mixture. using a whisk attachment. using a large metal spoon. using a figure. Dust with sifted icing sugar and serve in thin wedges. Or. you can bake it in a kugelhopf mould (a fluted tin with a funnel centre) or with whipped crEme fraiche. pod open' 3 Put the eggs and sugar into an etectric mixer bowl. achieved bY whisking eggs and sugar vigorously to incorporate as much air as possible. scrubbed roog butter.lemon and vanitta kugethopf ways to suit Similar to a classic Genoese sponge. bake in the centre of 5 Gentty scoop the mixture into the prepared cal<e tin and the oven for 5o minutes to t hour. to serve as a dessert. The top shoutd be springy when pressed and the cal<e witl have started to come away very stightty from the edge of the tin. Stit the vanilla scrape out the seeds using the tip of a sma[[ sharp knife.

Beat in the eggs. Grease a rkg toaftin and tine the base with baking parchment.s tasty carrot cake. 5o. the top shoutd feeI quite firm when pressed. pastries and cal<es 2O3 . Leave the cake in the tin untit att the syrup is absorbed. finely grated zest ofr large orange z medium free-range eggs sultanas. untiI smooth. breads. untit tight and creamy. then tip in the bran from the sieve if it won't rub through. coconut and chopped walnuts. Serve cut into thicl< stices. gentty heat the orange luice with the remaining sugar and lemon juice in a smalt saucepan untit the sugar is dissolveo. Ptace on a wire racl< and leave to coot comptetelv. Not only is it easy to make and bake. The crust needs to be well punctured with a skewer to enable the syrup to soak in. store in an airtight cal<e tin untit required. vitamins and minerals. then turn out and remove the base paper. Stand the tin on a uog sultanas 5og desiccated coconut 5og chopped walnuts iuice heavy baking sheet and bake for r hour zo-25 minutes. 3 Turn the mixture into the prepared toaf tin and tevet the top. Meanwhite. sift the ftour. Also. using a large etectric mixer or by hand. Pricl< hotes a[ over the surface with a skewer. rich carrot cake This wonderfully moist cake from the connaught repertoire takes me back to my childhood and memories of my mother. Run a knife around rne edges of the cake to loosen it. of/z large orange r tablespoon lemon juice f H=F-S T$ffi Rouringa citrus syrup over this cake as it cools makes it more moist and imparts a tangy flavour. you should have around zoog. this one. Mum. one by one. insert a metal skewer . Fotd in the sifted ftour mixture until smooth. spice and bicarbonate of soda together. Gas z. z Beat r75g of the sugar with the oil and orange zest.dark. peel and coarsety grate the zoog plain wholemeal flour r tablespoon ground mixed spice r teaspoon bicarbonate ofsoda 2259 carrots z5og soft darl< brown sugar 15oml sunflower oil carrots. 4 To checl< that the cake is cooked. Set aside.s for youl SERVES 8-ro r Preheat the oven to r5ooc.it shoutd come our clean. tnen stowly drizzte over the orangey syrup so it seeps into the holes and round the edges. it is really healthy being dairy free and high in fibre. then finalty fold in the grated carrot.

Rotloutonatighttyfloured surfacetothethicknessofafrcoin. Rub in the butter untit the mixture resembles centre' Pour in the yeasty in the remaining caster sugar. and l<itchen paper for heat to r8ooc.Mixtoadoughandshapeinto a batt with Your hands' surface for about 8 minutes untit the dough is 5 Knead on a tightty ftoured the dough to coat in the smooth and elastic.thenkneaduntilsmooth. but serve stit[ warm so the chocolate 2O4 Flour: breads. hatf-fil[ a deep saucepan or sugar. Coverthe bowt with ctingfitm doubled in size. These littte brioche as a chic dessert or treat with coffee' MAKES zo-24 centre and oozes out as you bite into them. pastries and cakes . Have ready a shatlow bowl of caster draining. for deeP-frYing mill< and a the brioche dough.Drainonkitchenpaperforaminute. Deep-fry the fitted dough batts. 7 deep-fat fryer with oil and When ready to serve. Ptace in an oited [arge bowt and turn and teave in awarm place untitthe dough has oi[.pressout40-48 (see below)' Rest in the rounds. sift the flour and satt fine breadcrumbs.thentossinthesugarto centre is stitt metted' coat. re-rotting if necessary and shape the ravioti fridge for 15 minutes. until metted and smooth. Remove and cool. Coo[ stightty. Ptus extra to dust 4oog strong Plain flour 2 teaspoons fine sea satt 4og unsatted butter z medium free-range eggs. beaten vegetable oi[. then it steady. Place over a pan of untit sotid. whisk the granutes into the mitk pinch of sugar and set aside until it starts to froth' into a targe bowt' set on a damp ctoth to hotd 4 Meanwhite. about 4-6 at a time' for r'l minutes untitgotdenbrown. then chitt zUsingasmaltmelonbalter. 6Knocl<bacl<thedough. Quite divine Ganache filling: r First mal<e the ganache.usinga5or6cmcutter.scoopoutzo-z4baltsofganache. if using fresh yeast mix with the tepid with a pinch of the sugar' lf using dried yeast. Break up the chocolate and ptace in a heatproof bowl 8og dark chocolate (6o% cocoa sotids) 4og unsalted butter 3 tablespoons double cream Brioche dough: gentty simmering water and stir with the butter and cream.chocolate truffle ravioti melts in the 'doughnuts' are filted with a chocolate ganache' which Brioche dough is highty versatile.theydon'tneed to be perfect spheres. Mal<e a wett in the mix mitkandattbutztablespoonsofthebeatenegg. Chitt untit required' 3 To mal<e rog fresh yeast or z teaspoons dried active Yeast r5omI tePid milk z5g caster sugar.

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MAKES ABOUT z LTTRES I to give fish and seafood a subtle piquancy. tarragon. lobster ond crab. r celery sticl<. lt imparts flavour and acidity find it is worth the time to make up a court bouillon for simple poaching because of the added value in terms of flavour. roughly chopped r large onion. roughly chopped z medium shatlots. z leeks.court boui[[on A court bouillon is a poaching liquor used for whole fish. lt can be kept. in the fridge for up to 3 days. sliced r star anise zoomI dry white wine zo8 Stocks. sauces and dressings . Add the rest of the ingredients. I teaspoon white peppercorns rog rock salt r lemon. 3 Cool the tiquor untess using straightaway. bulb. /. chopped 3 gartic cloves (unpeeted) r large sprig each thyme. basil and parsley. Bring to the boit. tied together z litres water covered. roughly chopped z Strain the court bouillon through a colander tined with wet mustin into a deep bowl. roughly chopped r Put all the vegetables and gartic into a large stocl< pot with the bunch of herbs and cover with the cotd water. return to a simmer and cool< gently for about 3o minutes. or frozen. fennel. Discard the vegetabtes and flavo urings. roughly chopped 2 carrots.

sliced teaspoon white peppercorns undisturbed for ro minutes so the partictes settle. or give him notice to put some aside for you.. you will need around 15kg' lf turbot or sole aren't possibilities.f. This is simply due to fish proteins and is quite harmtess. Turn offthe heat and Leave 5 Turn I I lemon. t would say. you can boirthe strained stocr< down to about r litre to concentrate the flavour. even if you are not buying sole or turbot at the time. rf you are not using the stocr< straightaway. choose sole or turbot bones.fish stock flavoured fish stock with a light colour. chopped 1 z Put all the vegetables into a stocl< pot with the olive oit. o. Rinse away any blood from bacl<bones under cold running water. but not oity fish like salmon. rf it hetps. [emon and peppercorns. chopped i5 minutes. tied together spoon so it does not mal<e the stocl< cloudy. if possibte. as this might give the stocl< a bitter taste. However. T. sauces and dressings 2Og . frF{ mistake it fo_r chicken or vegetable flavours. then heat until thev start to sizzte.igit 5tocl<s.: gF-$ YFF mur. Don. uncovered. 4 As the tiquid boits gentty you wilt note a scum forms. boil to concenrrate and . Ask your fishmonger if he has any to spare. 6 Line a large colander with wet mustin and set over a targe bowl or smaller pan.l. then chop the head in hatf. for zo minutes no [onger or the stocl( may acquire a bitter taste from the bones. add the herbs. shal<ing the pan occasionally. cover with a tid and sweat gentty over a low heat for about celery sticl<. Unsalted stock should keep in the freezer for up to 3 months. coorthen chilt. Atternativety. we sl<im it off with a wide sl<imminc rooml tight olive oi[ (not extra virgin) 3ooml dry white wine z [itres water z sprigs each thyme and parstey. rfusingthe head ofa [arge fish. You should have about r. and bring to the boit over a medium high heat.5 litres. about r. Now pour in the water. Roughty chop the bones so they witt fit into the pan. remove the larger bones first with a slotted spoon. Avoid using the skin too. chopped z garlic cloves (unpeeled) untilthe wine evaporates almost totalty away. the heat down and simmer. for true soups or fish velout6s. Gentty tip the tiquid through the mustin.5l<g white fish bones and heads r leel<. plus heods.5 LTTRES fish For a fine r Prepare the bones and heads. 5oomlcontainers.t forget to fuU. chopped r onion. Fish stock is essential. you can use the bones of other white fish. 3 Stir in the fish bones and wine and cook /zfennel butb. Vuu . MAKES ABour r. remove the eyes and gills. a batch of stock.j:.

:x'.:l'""'' tu rn i ill.il:'Jl. Discard a[[ the debris. We make chicken stock using fresh chicken carcasses delivered daily to the restaurants.chicken stocl< This is a good multi-purpose stock. Light chicken stock is used in soups and creamy veloutds. Coot.H:" n g on ce or twice u nti r n ice rv 27o Stocl(s. frKffi ru we use this stock to give a sauce some depth of flavour and a light cotour.. sauces and dressings . but we also use a dark (or brown) chicken stock for pork. roughty chopped /z head gartic (unpeeted) r large thyme sprig into a large bowt. skim off any white scum. 3 Strain the stocl< through a colander tined with wet mustin z leel<s. roughly chopped z Add the chopped vegetables to the pan along with the garlic and thyme.l'J. then turn down the heat to a gentle simmer and cool<. lt is made in the same way as light chicken stock except that the carcasses are first roasted in a hot oven.T. return the tiquid to the pan and continue boiting untiI reduced by hatf. sl<imming occasionally if necessary.l llfJil J:.ilJ:i. you can buy packs of cheap fresh chicken wings.lill:'. lamb and game bird dishes. MAKES z LITRES zkg raw chicken carcasses or bony chicl<en joints (such as wings or r Put the chicl<en carcasses into a stock pot. Return to the boil. roughty chopped z [arge carrots. lf you want a stronger stock. roughly chopped z onions. lnstead. Follow the ffi#Wru STffieK ffi i:. coverwith the water and bring to the boit. Using a slotted spoon. chitt and use within 3 days.J[::"J:T:ffJJl. ffi fl F$f. backs) 4 litres cold water 3 celery sticl<s. but I appreciate these are not always available to home cooks.l. uncovered for about 3 hours. or freeze in 5oomI quantities. This gives a depth of colour and flavour without an over-meaty fdsfe.

Alternatively. tt isn't simply made by boiling all the ingredients together. lnfusion is the secret. tied together to labet the containers. yet full flavoured sauces. Cover and infuse in the fridge for z4 hours or so. thyme. MAKES ABOUT r. zooml dry white wine Stocks. then strain through a muslin-[ined colander into another jug or bow[. roughly chopped leaf and star anise into a large saucepan or stock pot with the water. remembering z [itres cold water r sprig each tarragon. roughly chopped '/. garlic. lemon. lower the heat and simmer for r leek. freeze in smaller amounts.5 LITRES r Put att the vegetables. basil. This is the stock we use for our vegetarian dishes and light vegetable soups. Bring to the boit. peppercorns. roughty chopped ro minutes. then fresh herbs are added and the nage is Ieft to infuse for a good day before straining. sptit in hatf r lemon. sauces and dressings 217 . roughly chopped 6 carrots. Occasionally I combine vegetable nage with some fish or light chicken stock in a sIuce. Keep covered in the fridge for up to 3 days untit ready to use.vegetabte nage This vegetable stock is one of the secrets of our light. z Remove the pan from the heat. parsley and chervi[. teaspoon white peppercorns 1f teaspoon pink peppercorns r small bay leaf 4 star anise jug or other suitable container and tip in att of the tiquid. Coo[ to atlow the vegetabtes and herbs to infuse the tiquid with their delicate flavours. 3 Spoon the cooted vegetables and flavourings into a large r head of garlic. coriander. bay 3 onions. The vegetables are simmered briefly. roughly chopped z celery sticks. push in the bouquet of herbs and stir in the wine.

Deglaze with the wine and vermouth. This is why I always Season a sauce at the end. It should by now be smooth and glossy. lf desired. strip the leaves from another smatI thyme sprig and stir these into the sauce . Vegetabte Nage (page zn) zoomI double cream zoomlsingle cream sea salt and freshly ground white pepper THYME VELOUTE Use vegetable nage and proceed as above. then boiI for about 7 minutes untiI reduced by hatf. or vegetable nage depending on the recipe. Season to taste. This sauce gets its depth of flavour by boiling down the wine. MAKES ABOUT 5ooml rog butter 3 shaltots. z Pour in the stocl< or nage.velout6 A good veloutd requires fresh stock . and continue to boil until reduced by hatf.iust before serving. sauces and dressings . finely chopped r Heat the butter in a wide saucepan. wine. then strain the sauce through a fine sieve. 3 Now add the two creams. stirring. stir in the shailots then saut6 gently for about r5 minutes untit softened but zooml dry white wine zooml Noilly Prat or dry vermouth 4oomI Fish Stock (page zo9). Occasionally we whisk in a knob of ice cold butter to give the seuce e sheen. Chicl<en Stock (page zro) or not coloured. bring back to a gentle boit and simmer untiI the sauce is the consistency of pouring cream. '$-fi 272 Stocl(s. stock and cream in stages. adding 3 targe thyme sprigs with the stock. return to the boil. #fufi ffi ffi-ffi ffi vou witt find that even fresh vegetabtes.use chicken or fish stock. bones and herbs used to make stocks and sauces have some natural salty flavour and this will be concentrated by boiling and reducing.

pour the red wine into a wide shallow pan and boiI 75ct bottte red wine z tablespoons olive oil 4 targe shatlots. but we also use them for chicken dishes ond. z Heat the otive oiI in another pan and saut6 the shaltots for 5 minutes untit they soften and start to caramelise. nonkfish or turbot. Carefutty sl<im off any scum or fat from ihe surface using a ladle. then add the five spice powder. Resist the temptation to use a cheap red wine.reo wrne sauce with red meats. you can use either fish stock or light chicken stock as the base . 4 Stowty pour the hot tiquid through a sieve Iined with wet muslin. l teaspoon five spice powder rz blacl< peppercorns r thyme sprig r sma[[ bay teaf r tablespoon sherry vinegar 75omt tight Chicl<en Stocl< (page zro) or Fish Stocl< (page zo9) sea salt and freshly ground blacl< 3 Now add the reduced wine and the stock. Depending on the intended purpose. about zooml. Bring to the boil and boit rapidty for about ro-r5 minutes until reduced by half. peppercorns. certain full flavoured fish like salmon. sauces and dressings 213 . then season to taste. Repeat this process once more to ctarify the sauce even further. then degtaze with the sherry vinegar. Red wine sauces are usually associated T' Freeze any sauce that you don't need now for later use. MAKES 4ooml r First. thyme and bay teaf.both work well. Cool< for another 5 minutes. sticed down untiI reduced by three quarters to a rich syrupy liquid. pepper Stocl(s. o medium quality Cabernet Sauvignon or softer Merlot wine will give a far better resulf. surprisingly perhaps.

Bring to the boit and boiI untiI reduced by hatf. MAKES ABOUT rTomt pan 'jus'from cooking a steal<. chicl<en joint or fish fitlet r Put the roasting tin (or other pan the meat or fish has been cool<ed in) on the hob over a low heat. but you don't need to open a bottle especially. Checl< the seasoning and pour through a sieve into a jug. Add the olive oit. finely chopped r thyme sprig l teaspoon white wine or red wine vinegar r glass (about r75ml) red or white wine about r5omI fresh stock. use a bought tub of fresh stock. sauces and dressings . shattot and thyme. z Deglaze the pan with the vinegar.pan f us gravy This is a quick sauce using the natural jus (or pan juices) from cooked meat. l teaspoon boui[lon r tablespoon crAme fraiche or double cream sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 274 Stocks. lf you haven't any homemade stock to hand. 3 Now add the stocl<. poultry or fish. The jus is enriched with a glass of wine. and cool( gentty. stirring to scrape up the sediment. then pour in the wine. for about 3 minutes until softened. Whisk in the crdme fraiche or cream and cool< for another minute or so. a splash of Noilly Prat from the storecupboard will do. or water mixed with powder third. return to the boit and reduce by a r-z tablespoons otive oil r shallot.

Puilsts would use a pestle and mortar. Stocks. feed in the basiI leaves through the chute. fragrant basll. sauces and dressings 275 . so we can easily swirl it on to plates of pasto. flHffiF-S TBF rrestr pestowilt keep better in a screw-topped jar if you pour a thin layer of olive oil over the surface before refrigerating.shame to spoil good olive oil and fresh. Or if you tike. soups. peeled and roughly chopped 5og Parmesan cheese. seal and store in the fridge for up to r week. then slowly trickte in the olive oit. finely grated processor and whiz until you have a fine crumbly mixture. thin the pesto rzoml extra virgin olive oil with 3-4 tablespoons cold water or vinaigrette and pour into a plastic bottte with a squirty top before refrigerating for up to r week. Pine nuts soon turn rancid. etc. often thinning it down with vinaigrette or water and decanting it into a'squirty' plastic bottle. but we make pesto in a blender or food processor. MAKES ABOUT 3ooml r Place the pine nuts. Process until you have a smooth pur6e. garlic and Parmesan in a fooo 5og pine nuts 5og gartic cloves.classic pesto We make fresh pesto to use as garnish. so buy fresh ones rather than use o pack you find lurking at the back of a cupboard . z With the motor stit[ running. 3og basil leaves 3 Spoon the pesto into a screw-topped iar.

For a milder flavour. according to taste in the oil as it heats. then add the remaining oit and continue as above. then remove. You can also use them in vinaigrette dressings. Then add the remaining oit and heat for another z minutes. There is no need to use extra virgin olive oil for oil will suffice. fat gartic cloves in a little of the olive oil to cover for z minutes. VARIATIONS Rosemary Wash 3-4 sprigs of fresh rosemary. tnfused oils add instant flavour and richness with littte effort. this takes about 3 minutes. lt is important to heat the oil to at least 9o"C to destroy any airborne bacteria in herb sprigs and other flavourings. Then carefully pour in the heated oit. Add the remaining oil and heat for another z-3 minutes. .herb oils I love to infuse olive oit with herbs and other flavourings to trickle over hot vegetables or grilled fish. Gartic Saut6 about 8 peeled. Try combining chitti with 4 gartic ctoves. but do not atlow to burn. deseed the chitties before sticing. dry and proceed as above. You can store the oit in the fridge. seal immediatety and coo[. diluted half and half with pure olive oil. pure grade olive cycle or heating it in a warm oven for rc minutes. Saut6 in 4 tablespoons of the above quantity of otive oit for z-3 minutes until iust softened. dry and proceed as above' Red pepper Core. chicken and chargrilled vegetables. MAKES z5omt 3og basiI sprigs. Leave on the heat for r minute. deseed and slice a medium red pepper. then pat dry between kitchen paper or spin in a salad sPinner. then bottle and seal white hot. including stalks z5om[ pure olive oil (not extra virgin) r wash the basit sprigs under cold running water. or stice 3-4 targe fresh chilties and tightty saut6 in 3 tabtespoons of the otive oit. chitti Infuse a-6 whote dried chitties. pushing them down with a sl<ewer or chopsticl<. It is also a good idea to ensure the bottle is sterilised first either by putting it through a dishwasher infusions. 3 Lift the basitsprigs into a ctean. This takes z-j minutes over a medium heat and does not affect the flavour of the oil. Store in a cooI ptace out of direct sunlight. Continue as above.this doesn't affect the flavour. Sage Wash a good handfut offresh sage leaves. but expect it to go cloudy . Add the basil and stir gently untitwitted. r z Heat the otive oit gentty in a medium pan over a moderate heat to about gooc. Continue as above. sterilised bottle.

hazelnut and walnut oils can be very aromatic.ytt'. New potatoes. though it is quite strong. Rice wine vinegar is lighter and slightly sweeter. are often over tossed in a vinaigrette flavoured with chopped fresh herbs while still warm. but use sparingly . I teaspoon Maldon sea salt. z Pour the vinaigrette into a clean bottle or jar and store in the fridge. But I also drizzle vinaigrette dressings grilled fish. incLude a little cider vinegar.vinaigrette We use vinaigrettes to dress a variety of dishes. Another spanish vinegar. spanish sherry vinegar is one of my favourites. chicken and even sliced pan-fried liver and steaks. you can replace part of either oil with a nut oil. though you might like to experiment with different vinegars shake betow). or to taste z tablespoons white wine vinegar Mustard and honey dressing Add 3 teaspoons coarse grain mustard with 1 teaspoon clear honey. Chopped chervit. for example. oil in my dressings than most classic recipes. Aged balsamic vinegar wilt impart a special character. iust add a scant teaspoon of ptain Diion mustard (no honey). A quality white wine vinegar is fine. replace some or a[ of the white wine vinegar. not just salads. sauces and dressings . varying the oil and vinegar to suit the particular dish. The base should always be q medium flavour pure or extra virgin olive oil. Add about r tablespoon chopped herbs to each roomI of dressing. Herb dressing Chopped fresh herbs can be added to the vinaigrette at the tast minute before serving . mixed with a more neutral oil such as groundnut or sunflower oil. ftavour with a hint of apple. shal<e each time you use it. simply because too much vinegar can (see overpower o dish. crushed '/a teaspoon freshly ground white or VARIATIONS black pepper r tablespoon lemon iuice. ffiffiffiSSfi*ru## rouu. citrus hint. 'WqffiffiffidtffiS fr#ffi. Or for a vinaigrette with a subtte mustard flavour. so a teaspoon is enough to lend a mellow flavour.not before as the bright green colour wi[[ turn to grey on storage. pasta and couscous. I also add fresh lemon juice for a fruity. chives and parsley are a[[ excellent in a dressing.ofwine vinegar and grape iuice that's almost syrupy and good enough to sip neat from a spoon' zt8 Stocks. I use proportionally less vinegar to or whisk before each use. Make a good quantity of vinaigrette and store in the fridge. MAKES ABOUT z5oml rooml extra virgin olive oil roomI groundnut oil r Put att the ingredients into a lug or bowt and whisk together until emutsified. forvm agridulce de Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend. or for a fulter.e rLavour.

lt should re-emutsifY' Stocks. the best organic eggs available' Note that raw egg yolks are used choose mayonnaise to each t tablespoon vinaigrette. wine vinegar. pepper to taste' a baltoon whisk' beat wetl Stand this on a damp ctoth to hotd it steady' Using of oit from the tip of a until smooth and creamy. Whisk another egg yotk in a seParate bowl with a pinch each of salt. steady stream' making you witl achieve a thicl< incorporated before you add any more' This way mayonnaise. whisl<in g vi goroustY' z free-range organic egg Yotks l teaspoon white wine vinegar % teaspoon sea salt then slowly increasing the z Continue to whisl< in the oit drop by drop at first' sure each addition is wetl amount you add to a stow. until soft but not browned' herbsandwhizinabtenderorfoodprocessoruntitsmoothandcreamy. are unluckY enough to find your mayonnaise does sptit. Add r thyme sprig and about ro minutes' Remove the stirring once or twice. Now tricl<te in a few drops teaspoon.Pass spoon' Coo[' then stir into the though a sieve rubbing with the bacl< of a wooden mayonnaise and check the seasoning' flffi ilS'S 'F!F rrvo. superior to anything you can buy' lt uses egg yolks to stsbilise the emulsion and always - Whiskingamayonnaisebyhandwillgivethebestresult. and cold water to stabilise the emulsion' Taste 3 Finatty.usinglWhole is running' The mayo will be adding the oil through the chute while the motor egg and t yolk rather than z yolks. salt.mayonnaise A freshly made mayonnaise is far using at [east 2 tablespoons you can righten a thick mayonnoise with vinaigrette. remains thick and spoonabre.Put with 4-5 tabtespoons olive oil z finety chopped targe red peppers in a saucepan l tarragon sprig and cool< gently' and heat untit sizzting. sauces and dressings 279 .Makeupthemayonnaise(asabove)andsetaside. tnen crush and stir into the gritted Mediterranean Red pepper mayonnaise This is superb with fish' such as redmuttetorseabass. PePPer ano mustard. add r-z tabtespoons adiust the seasoning if necessary' freshly ground white or btack pepper 1 teaspoon English mustard Powder olive oit 3ooml groundnut oil or tight (not extra virgin) VARIATIONS btanch in boiling water tor Garlic mayonnaise Peet 3-4fatgartic ctoves and finished mayonnaise' 1 minute or so. and slowly paler in colour and a little more runny' MAKES ABOUT 3oomt 1 Put and mustard into a bowt' the egg yotls. then whisk in the sPtit mixture.butyouCanuseablenderorfoodprocessor. try this remedy. rf required.

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