Cutting and Measuring Mens Garment

,.
>^'
>
^'
Popular Gentleman
System
For
Cutting and Designing

Of
MEN'S Garments
PUBLISHED BY
Popular Gentleman Service Company

LOCK BOX 6345
W. PHILADELPHIA, PA.
<\
C()]p.vrinht
1017 by
Servire
ropular
(it'iitlemiui
Company
29 1917
y ^
CIA4R720S
LIMITED EDITION.
This edition
of which this
is is
limited to one thousand complete copies

.
No.
This copyright volume
is
for the exclusive use of
of
POPULAR GENTLEMAN SERVICE COMPANY.
1917 Edition "A"
DIAGRAM SHOWING
HOW TO TAKE A
DEPRESSION MEASURE
Diagram No
Normal TiGune
The yard
stick
must always be straight up and down and not
lean in or
3.
out at the top or bottom. Use the yardstick as shown in Diagrams 1-2 and
Diagram
Measure
shows how
to hold the
yard stick and square.
in for the waist depression

is
from the edge of the yard stick
to
the hollow part of the waist which
2 inches for a normal
man, but can be
more or
less.
WAIST Depression
Depression
Seat
DIAGRAM
No. ^ and Form Stooping Sway to Front
Diagram No. 2 shows the stooping and sway to the front form. The distance from the yard stick to the hollow part of waist is 2V2 inches, but can be more or less.
The distance from the yard be more or less.
stick in to the seat
is li/o
inches, but can
When drafting trousers for this form deduct the seat depression from the waist depression before drafting and the difference gives you the correct waist depression for the trousers.
Bl_AOE Otr>RCSSION
DtPRtSSlOM
Waist
Diagram
No. 3
Diagram No.
shows the erect form with large

After the pattern
seat.
When
drafting
a coat for a form of this kind, deduct the blade depression from the waist
depression and draft the pattern.

&eat measure the
is
drafted add to the
amount you reduced the waist
depression.
When
always.
drafting trousers draft
them the
full
waist depression measure
HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE
Diagram
No. I
Diagram No.3
Place the edge of the square on the
at the back of
Take the breast and waist measure and

then place the square up under the arm as shown, and mark in the front and back of the arm at the top of square as Diagram No. 1.
mark
across as shown. Mark in the center of the back at the top of the square for the scye depth as shown in Diagram No. 3.
arm and
square
Diagram Ho.Z
Diagram Na4Place the square over the top of the shouldmark in back of the square in front of arm scye as Diagram No. 2.
er and
Take the scye depth and waist length, also the length of seat and the full length as shown in Diagram No. 4.
Diagram No.5
D/AGRAM
No. 6
Take the strap measure from the center seam in the back of vest at the neck down to the mark in front of arm as shown on Dia-
Take the over shoulder measure from the scye depth mark in the center of the back, across the shoulder and down to the mark in front of the arm as shown on Diagram
No.
6.
gram No.
5.
Diagram
No. 7
to the
Take the blade measure from the mark in front of arm, around seam in the center of the back as shown on Diagram No. 7.
HOW TO ENLARGE MEASURE
To get an easy sack coat you should increase the breast and waist measure one or more sizes or as
much
as
is
wanted for
ease.
None
correctly,
of the other measures should be changed
if
they have been taken
namely: the strap measure, the overshoulder measure or scye
depth.
In cutting overcoats take the measures of the vest,
and enlarge the
breast and waist measures 3 inches for regular overcoat, or as
much
as
is
wanted for
size.
Do
not enlarge the overshoulder, strap measure or scye depth as you

is
add to the above measures by dropping the arm scye which

the drafts.
shown on
If the
above
is
followed out closely you will get good results.
10
HOW TO OPEN
VEST FOR A STOUT MAN AS SHOWN ON DIAGRAM
The
solid black lines lines
show the vest after
it is
opened.
The broken The

at point
show the vest before

vest
is filled in.
it is
opened.
solid black space
from the side at the point
across to the front
C shows how the

line
Draw a
back from the pocket to
and cut the pattern from
in to
and thru
to C.
Open the pattern from

to point
to
14 of
aii i'lch
for each inch stout.
Paste a piece of paper over the opening from the front point at C back
and draw a
line
from
Take out the space between
D to B. A and D
and into B.
This leaves the solid black space filled in as diagram, which gives the length over the stomach for the stout.
This finishes the diagram.
11
DIAGRAM SHOWING NORFOLK OVER REGULAR SACK COAT
is
located at the front sleeve notch.
Square across from
to get B.
Cut the pattern thru from
to
B and add
seam
V2 inch for seams.
is
located at the top of the side
in the
arm
scye.
Square across from C to get D.
Open the pattern thru from C
to
and allow
y.>
inch for seams.
A
E
to
is
3 inches.
to E-1 is 2 inches.
Draw
a line from
is
E down
to get E-2.
E-2 to E-3
2 inches.
This forms the front strap.

off
I-ay a piece of paper
under the pattern and trace
the front strap.
is
located at the normal waist line.

is is
F-1

F-2
Draw
a line from F-2 to the front of coat above the bottom button
inch
to get F-3.
Go down from
F, F-1, F-2
and F-3 for the width of

F-1.
belt 2 inches
and shape
as diagram.
G G G
is
half
way between F and
to G-1 is 1 inch.
to G-2 is 1 inch.
Square up from G-1 to locate G-4.

Square up from G-2 to locate G-3.
Lay
a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the back strap.
side
Open the pattern thru at the and back together.
seams and lay the side seams of fore part
Lay
a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt.
13
HOW TO OPEN
A COAT FOR A STOUT MAN AS SHOWN ON DIAGRAM
(tpen the pattern at the under
arm seam from the arm
hole
is
down
1/2
to the
pocket at H.
Cut thru pattern from
to
H-1 which
inch back
from the front edge of pocket.
Open the pattern from H-1 to D-6. Open the pattern as diagram at H Vi inch you want to give for ease.
for each inch stout or as
much
as
Cut a strip of paper the shape of the opening from
H
is
to
H-1 and D-6.
Paste the strip of paper over the opening from D-G to H-1 and H.
The
solid black
shown on diagram
is
how
the coat
to be filled in.
Cut from
in to
H-1 and take out the white space from top of pocket at
and into H-1.
Take
off
the side body at
as nnich as
it
laps.
This finishes the diagram for the stout.
14
DIAGRAM OF SOLID PINCH BACK
A and B
Lay
is
the normal waist
line.
Come up from A and B

and D.
2 inches to get
C and
D.
a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt as at A, B, D.
E and F is half way between A and C and B and Draw a line from E to F. Add 1/2 inch at F to get F-1. Add 14 inch to E to get E-1.
ohape the back at diagram.
E-1 to
is
2 inches.
Square up and down from X.
X to X-1
is 21/2
inches.
Square up and down from X-1. Pinch in as much at X as you add at F as diagram.
Pinch in as much at X-1 as you add at
as diagram.
15
DIAGRAM OF HALF PINCH BACK
DIAGRAM
1.
Diagram 1 shows the normal waist line at A and B. Go up from A and B 2 inches to get C and D. Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the andD. E and F is half way between A and C and B and D. Draw a line from E to F.
belt as at A, B,
16
DIAGRAM
Cut the pattern thru on
line
2.
E and F
as diagram
2.
Add Add
1/2
inch at
14 inch at
F E
to get F-1. to E-1.
Shape the back as diagram at E-1 and F-1.
X
X
is
2 inches in
from E-1.
Square up from X.
to
X-1
is 21/2
inches.
Square up from X-1.

Pinch
in as
much
at
as you add at
as diagram.
Pinch in as
If
much
at X-1 as you add at

is split
as diagram.
where the back
thru
is
to be
seamed up allow
1/2
inch for the
seams.
17
REGULAR TROUSERS
The measurements are as follows

Outside seam
41
in. in.
Waist
Inseam
32
in. Seat Depression 2 inches.

1.
31 37
in.
Knee ._ Bottom
19 16
in.
in.
Square down and out from

1
1
to 3 is the rise 9 inches.

to 6 is the outside
seam measure 41
3 and
4.
6.
inches.
! is
half
way between
up from
o is 1Y> inch
is
Vs seat up from
is 1/2 seat.
3.
Square out from

3 to 7
2, 3,
5 and
G.
7 to 8 is 1-32 seat.
18
8 to 9
is
9 to 10
is
1-12 seat. 1-32 seat.

12.
11 is half way between 9 and 3. Square up from 11 to get point
12 to 13
12 to 14
is
l^ waist plus l^ inch.
is 14.
waist plus 14 inch.

15.
Draw Draw
from 13 to 7, this gives you point a line from 13 to 8. L'raw a line from 14 to 2. 16 is half way between 7 and 9. Square down from 16 to get point 17.
a line
17 to 18 is 1/0 inch. 18 to 19 is y-> bottom or 8 inches. 20 is half way between 18 and 19. Draw a line from 20 up thru the knee to 11, this locates point 21, at the knee. 21 to 22 is 1,4 knee measure. 21 to 23 is 14 knee measure. Draw a line from 18 to 22 and from 19 to 23 and up to point 2. Shape side seam from 9 to 22, and from 10 to 22. Shape from 13 down to 10. Take out dress from 13 to 15 and down thru 9 to 10. Shape side seam from 14 to 2. This finishes the fore part.
BACK PART.
Square out from points 1, 13, 2, 3, 10, 22 and 18. 23 to 24 is Y> inch. 22 to 25 is 1/2 inch. 1 to 26 is 1/2 inch. 19 to 27 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from 27 to 24. Draw a line from 26 to 25. 10 to 28 is i/s seat. Shape from 28 to 25. Square up from point 8 to get point 29. 29 to 30 is the depression measure 2 inches. Place long arm of square on point 15 and 30 so that the short arm of square rests on line 1 and apply 14 of the waist measure plus 2 inches for seams and make up, which in this case is 9% inches on short arm of square, so that it falls on hne 1 as diagram, and gives you point 31. Now draw a line from 31 across to corner of square and down to 30 and 15 and shape the back seam as diagram dropping 14 inch below point
28.
31 to 32 is 3 inches. 32 to 33 is 1 inch. Take out V at 32 and 33. 2 to 34 is l'^/4, inches. Shape from 31 to 34 and from 34 to 24. This finishes the draft.
19
STOUT MEN'S TROUSERS
The measurements are

Outside seam
42
,
in.
.
Seat
Inseam
Waist
31 m.
Abdomen
Rise
,,
44 in. ... 44 m.
11
in.
Depression measure 2 at waist gi ^^^^
in. in. in.
42
in.
Bottom
17
20

1 to 3 is 1 to 6 is
1.
the rise 11 inches. the outside seam measure 42 inches.
i is half
way between
up from
seat.
3.
3 and
4.
6.
is is
IV2 inches up from

Vr seat
Square out from

8 to 7 is
1/2
2, 3,
5 and
6.
7 to 8
8 to 9
is is
1-32 seat.
1-12 seat.
1-32 seat.
9 to 10
is
1 is half way between 9 and 3. Square up from 11 to get point 12.
12 to 13
12 to 14 12 to
is is
14 waist plus 14 of an inch. 14 waist plus

i/i.
of an inch.
is 1-6
abdomen measure.
Square out from F.
to F-1 is 14
is
F-2
F-3
14 of an inch
is
1-32
abdomen measure. from F-1. waist up from 13.
Draw Draw Draw Draw
a line from 14 to F-3. a line from F-3 to F-1 and from F-3 to F-2. a line from 27 to 24.
a line
is
from 26
to 25.
10 to 28
Vb seat.
Shape from 28 to 25. Square up from point 8

29 to 30
is
to get point 29.
incline
measure
at waist 2 inches.
Place long
arm
of square on points 15 and 30 so that the

1
short
arm
of
square rests on line squared back from

121/2
now apply
up,
14 of the waist
in this case is
measure plus 2 inches for seams and make

inches on short
1
which
arm
of square so that
it
falls
on line squared back

a line from 31
from
as diagram and gives you point 31,
now draw
Now
down to 30 and 15. shape the back seam as diagram dropping 1/4 of an inch below point 28. "1 to 32 is 3 inches.
across to corner of square and
is 1
32 to 33
inch.
Take out
2 to 34
is
at 32
and
33.
134 inches.
to 34
Shape from 31
and from 34
to 24.
This finishes the draft.
21
GOLF TROUSERS
The measurements are as

Outside length 30
21
follows
in. in.
in. in.
Inseam length
Waist
Seat
32
38
Knee length 23 Small of knee length 25 Calf length __._ 29 Rise 9
in.
Knee
Small of knee
ISi/i in-
_14
15
2
in.
in. in. in.
Calf
in. in.
Depression

1
1.
to
A-1
is 1/2 is
seat plus
i/j
inch.
1/2
to to
A
B
C
is is
the rise 9 inches. the knee length. the small of knee length plus the calf length
B- C,
jjIus 1 inch.
1
A-1 to A-2
1-12 seat plus
inch. to get points
Scjuare up and
inch.
down from A-1
to to
is
is
2 and B-1.
Point 15
is
'
<!
seat
up from A-1.
A-2.
Square out from A,
and D.
A-3
is
h;df
way between A and
M.
_s
.$=1
Square up from A-3 to locate

4
is
3.
A-5
A-6
3.
is
Ys seat 2 inches
from A-2. from A-4.
14 waist plus
i/i
l/i
inch from
3.
is
5 is
waist plus Vi inch from
C-6 C-7
is 1/2
inch from C-2. inch from C-1.
Draw
a line from 5 to A-1.

is 1
is 1/2
to
A-4
inch.
4.
Draw
a line from A-4 to

is 1/2
is 1
Draw Draw
C-4 to
a line from A-5 to C-6. a line from A-6 to C-7.
B-1 to B-2
the knee measure.
is 1/2
inch. inch.
C-5 to E-1
is 1/2 is 1/2
B-2 to B-3
inch.
D-2 to E-2
D-3 to E-4
inch.
Square down from B-3 to get C-1.

B-1 to B-4
is 1 inch.
is 1/2 inch.
Draw Draw
to C-2.
a line from
to E-4.
a line from E-1 to E-2.
Square down from B-4 to get C-2.
Draw Draw
a line
from A-2
Place your square on points 15 and 20 so that
the short
a line from A-4 to C-1.
arm
of square rests on line

1,
squared out from
and
apply
your
X.
Form 4 small pleats with the amount C-1 to C-2 is larger than small of knee measure
as diagram.
waist measure plus 2 inches for the
seams and
on
line 1 to get point
Draw
C-1 and C-2.
a line from 15 up
thru
20
to top of
C-3
is
half
way between
square to get X-1.
C-3 to C-4 C-3 to C-5
is 14. is
small of knee plus 14 inch.
X-2
is 1/2
inch above X.
14 small of knee plus 14 inch.
Draw Draw
a line from X-2 to X-1.

a line
Square down from C-3 to locate D-1.
from X-2
to A-6. to C-7.
D-1 to D-2
inch.
is 1/4 calf
measure plus
i/j.
of an
Shape from X-2 thru A-6 and down

is
D-1 to D-3
inch.
14 calf measure plus 14 of an
Shape the back seam from X-1 thru 15 and

out to A-5.
Draw
a line from C-5 to D-2 and C-4 to D-3.
Take out
inch
as diagram.
Shape from 5 to A-2. Shape from 4 thru A-4 and down
to C-1.
1/2
Take out the same amount in pleats on back part at bottom as on forepart.
inch
Shape from D-2 to D-3 extending below D-1 as diagram.
Cut
off
the cuff and allow 14 inch for seam
on each the top of cuff and bottom of

pants.
BACK PART.
Square out from
20
is
1,
This same draft

ers
will cut
knickerbocker trouscuff at the
A-2 and A-4.

the
and instead of using the
2 inches in
from 5 or
bottom use a I14 inch band.

depression
measure.
RIDING BREECHES
Outside se'm I'n'h 87 Inseam length __ 28 Waist 32 Seat 38
in.
in.
Knee
Calf
ISi/o
_.
in.
in. in. in.
Small of knee
in.
14 15
9
in.
Ankle
Knee length ^ __ 23 Small of knee I'n'h 25 Calf length 29 Rise 9
in.
in.
in.
in.
Depression measure at waist 2 inches.
'Mi

1 to 2 is 1 to 3 is
1
1.
BACK PART.
Square out from points
20 to 21
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
the rise 9 inches.
and
20.
10.
the knee length 23 inches.
Square up from point 8 to get point

is
to 4 is the small of
knee length 25 inches.
the incline measure at waist 2
1 to 5 is the calf
1
length 29 inches.
inches.
to 6
is is
the outside seam length 37 inches. the inseam measure 28 inches.

2, 3, 4,
Draw
a line
from
through 21 and extend
2 to 6
the line 5 inches always above point 21,
Square out from

2 to 7
is 1/4 seat. is
is
and
6.
which gives you point

22 to 23
is
i/i-
22.
w-aist plus 2 inches.
7 to 8
8 to 9
% of an inch.
1-12 seat.
is
2-1 to 2-2 is
two inches.
Draw
9
a line from 2-2 through 23 to find point
9 to 10
% of an inch.
way between
and
2.
24.
11
is
half
2-2 to 24 is the
12.
same distance as from
2-1
Square up from 11 to get point

12 to 13
12 to 14
is is
to 14.
14 waist plus
14 waist plus
Vx.
1/1
of an inch. of an inch.
Draw
a line from 22 to 24 and take out a
inch
10 to 25
as diagram.
Draw
a line from 8 to 13. seat. 8 to 15 is Square down from 8 to get point 16.
is i/b seat.
is 1/2 is l/j
B-2 to B-3
C-2 to C-3
of an inch.
of an inch.
17 18
is
half
way between
and
16.
is 1
Draw
inch from 17. a Hne from 18 to point 11, this gives
to D-2
is 1
inch.
A A
B B
C C
to
you points A, B, C, as diagram. A-1 is Vs knee. to A-2 is Vi knee.
Shape back part from line 22 to 21, down to 25, shape from 25 to B-3, C-3 and down
to D-2.
From
B-2 to B-1 and from B-3 to B-4
is
the
to B-1 is Vr small of knee. to B-2 is 14 small of knee.
small of knee measure plus
1 inch.
is
to C-1 is to C-2 is
1/8
1/4.
calf. calf.
From
C-2 to C-1 and from C-3 to C-4
the
calf
measure plus
to
1 inch.
is
18 to
is
1-3 inch the size of the ankle or 3
From D
Take out
Split the
D-1 and from D-2 to D-3

3i/j inches.
the
inches.
ankle measure plus
to D-1 is half of the ankle
measure or
41/2
l-^-'i.
of an inch
in center of
back
inches.
part as diagram.
2 to 2-1
IV2 inches. Draw a Kne from 14 to 2-1 and from 2-1 to B-1 down through C-1 and D-1, this gives you the ease at A-1 for the bend at knee.
is
back part through at point 3 and

1/0
A-2 take
i/j
of an inch out above
A
1
and
inch
of an inch out below A,
making
as
Draw
Now
a line from 9 to A-2. shape from 13 through

to B-2
in all
1.5
take
the inch
is
out
diagram.
to 10.
When
to
pattern
cut out add to each the

is
Shape from 10
extending 14 of an
above and bottom part where inch

taken out 14 of an inch for seams.
inch out at point A-2.
Shape from A-2 through B-2 and C-2 down
as diagram.
Shape outside
2-1 to
seam as diagram from 14 to B-1, C-1 and down to D-1.
Shape side seam from 24 to 2-2 and down B-4 and C-4 and through to D-3.
to
25
WR'
REGULAR VEST
/^S
The measurements
Breast
are as follows
36
in.
32 Waist Waist depression 2
in.
Scye depth __ 8' 4 Waist length 17

Full lengths
_
in.
in.
Side length ___ 23i/i Opening 11
in.
in.
in.
271/0 in.
Blade
III/4,
in.
Overshouldcr
1()"'
in.
Strap
11
'-j
in.
26
Square down and out from A.
is is
14 breast less 14 inch
from A-1.
A A
C
to to
A-A
is
Va breast plus
"
i
of an inch.
% of an inch below
is 1/2
5.
B
to
is
the same as
is
i/_
to
A-A.
X-1
breast plus
inch from D-8.
A-A
to
X-2
breast.
is 1/2
is 1/2
breast plus
inch from D-1.
E-5 E-6
for the scye
waist plus waist plus

to
1 1
inch from E-4.

inch from E-1.
D is 21/2 inches. A to D gives the proportions

depth.
is 1/2
Shape from X-1

X-3 X-4
is 1 is 1
E-5 and from X-2 to E-6.
inch below D-5. inch below D-3.
A-A
to
D
is
gives the proportions for the strap
measure.
Draw
a line from X-4 to X-3.
A
E
to
the waist length 17 inches.
Square out from
and E.
Shape top of back from A to 2. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. Shape front of arm scye from
D-3.
6
to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches.
down thru
Draw
a line from
is 1 is
El
to
to locate point D-1.
Shape from
A-3
is
1
4 thru
D-5 and down.
D-1 to D-2
inch.
j.
breast plus
of an inch up from
D-2 to D-3
the blade measure 111

to locate
inches.
A-1. 10
is
Square up from D-3

D-4 D-5
is
D-D.
D-3.
2 inches below E-1.
half
way between D-1 and

inches in front of D-4.
A-3 to
is
the side length plus

is
inch.
is 11/2
A-3 to G-1
A-1 to A-4
the
to
full
length plus
1 inch.
Square up from D-5.
Shape from 10
;4
G and from G
to G-1.
to 1 is Vs breast plus
1.
of an inch.
is 1/2 is 1/2 is 1
inch. inch. inch.

1
Square up from
A-3
-Vj,
to
A-5
D-D to X is i/a breast plus Draw a line from X to A to

1.
of an inch.
A-5 to A-6 A-3 to
get point 2 above
M is the opening plus
inch.
Draw
is
D-3 to D-6
one half the width of back from

to get point A-1.
D-5 to D-2 or 3 5-16 inches. Square up from D-6
a line from A-1 to M. Shape from A-5 to A-4 and thru to M. Shape from M down thru D-8 and E-4 to G-1 as diagram.
Draw Draw
D-7
D-8
is
a line from A-1 to

a line
to locate 3.
Shape stand and

off
from 2
to 3.
from A-6 down to M. Lay piece of paper under pattern and trace
collar
one half the breast measure from D-2

114 inches out from D-7.
is is
the collar.
or 18 inches.
is
Shape back from
A down
to 10 as diagram.
E-1 to E-2
2 inches.
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount at D-3 measure on line
E-2 to E-3
one half the waist measure or
16 inches.
drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the strap measure plus J4 of an inch for
E-4
is 11/4
inch out from E-3.
make
up.
-jt
Square down from E-3.
Apply overshoulder measure plus

inch for
of an
Draw a
4
is 1/4
line
from E-4 up thru D-8.

2.
make up on broken
lines.
breast from
-(i3=j
27
3"
STOUT VEST
AS

44 44
2
follows
Breast
in.
in.
Waist Waist depression
Rcye depth __ 10 Waist length 17

Full length --281,4
in. in.
Side length -__ 24
in. in. in.
Opening
Blade
13
131/4.
in.
in.
Overshoulder
19-'
in.
Strap 1^\A
in.
28
4 of an inch. 5 6
is
14 breast
from
2.
A A
C
to
to
A-A
is i/
breast plus
Vj.
is 1/4 is %,
breast less 14 inch from A-1.

of an inch below
5.
B
to
is
the same as
is 1/2
to
A-A.
A-A
to
to
breast.
X-1
X-2
is 1/2
is i/j is 1/2
breast plus
1 1 1
inch from D-8.

inch from D-1.
inch from E-4.
D
E
breast plus
is 21/2 is
inches.
E-5
waist plus
Square out from
and E.
depression 2 inches.
to
E to E-1 is the waist Draw a line from E-1

D-1 to D-2 D-2 to D-3
is 1 is
is 14 waist plus 1 inch from E-1. Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5.
E-6
to locate point D-1
X-4
is 1
inch below D-3.
inch.
Draw
the blade measure 13 14 inches.
a line from X-4 to X-3. Shape top of back from A to
2.
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D.

D-4 D-5
is
Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. Shape point of arm scye from

D-3.
down thru
half
way between D-1 and

inch in from D-4.
D-3.
is 11/2
Shape from
A-3
is
'
4 thru D-5
and down.
of an inch up from
Square up from D-5.
to 1 is Yn breast plus
1.
% of an inch.
-^
1.
)i
breast plus
'j^
A-1.
Square up from
10
of an inch.
is
2 inches below E-1.
D-D
to
is 1/8
breast plus
A-3 to A-3
is

is
inch.
1
Draw
1.
a line from
to
to get point 2
above
to G-1
the
full
length plus
inch.
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from D-5 to D-2 or 3 9-16 inches.
Shape from 10 to G and from G A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch.

A-3 to A-5
is 1/2
is 1
to G-1.
inch. inch.
1
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1.
A-5 A-3
to to
A-6
Draw Draw
D-7
is
a line
from A-1
to
3.
to locate 3.
M is the opening plus M
inch.
a line from 2 to
Draw a line from A-1 to M. Shape from A-5 to A-4 and thru
Shape from
as diagram.
to
M.
to G-1
or 22 inches.
down thru D-8 and E-4
D-8
is II/4,
inch out from D-7.

is
E-1 to E-2
2 inches less
is
i/t
of an inch for
each waist
is 4
stout, in this case the waist
Shape stand at A-6. Shape back from A down

ply the
to 10 as
diagram.
inches stout, and the distance from

is 1
Measure the top of back from
to 2
and ap-
E-1 to E-2
inch.
E-2 to E-3
inches.
is
half the waist measure or 22
amount at D-3, measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1. this gives you the strap measure plus -V^ of an inch for
up.
^ij.
make
E-4
is 1
14 inch out
from E-3.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus

inch on broken lines.
of an
Draw
a line
from E-4 up thru D-8.
29
DOUBLE BREASTED VEST WITH COLLAR

Breast
follows
36 in 32 in.
2 in.
Scye depth _ _ 8V2 Waist length 17
in. in.
Side length -_-23i4 10 Opening
in.
in.
Full length -.27 1/2 in.
Blade
II14
in.
Overshoulder
1(5 '
in.
Strap
11
'
.j
in.
30
-SL^
A A
to
to
A-A is 1/8 breast plus -ji of an inch. B is the same as from A to A-A.
is 1/2
X-3 X-4
is 1 is 1
inch below D-5. inch below D-3.
Draw
A-A to C C to D is A-A to D
breast.
a line from X-4 to X-3. Shape top of back from A to 2.

to A-1. 6
Shape shoulder from 6

D-3.
21/2 inches.
is
the strap measure IIV2 inches.

8i/> inches.
Shape front of arm scye from
down thru
A A
to to
D
E
is is
the scye depth
A-3
Square out from
Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. of an inch up from is a breast plus
1
and E.
A-1. 10 is 2 inches below E-1. A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch. A-3 to A-5 is V-i inch. A-5 to A-6 is 1 inch. A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch. Line D-8 and E-4 is center vest front. Draw a hne from A-1 thru M to front of vest. The top button is 6 inches down from M and they are 3 inches apart. The top button is 21/4 inches back from center vest line.
E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. Draw a line from E-1 to B which locates
point D-1.
D-1 to D-2
is 1
is
inch.
4.
D-2
to
D-3
the blade measure 111
inches.
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D.
D-4
is
halfway between D-1 and D-3.
D-5 is 11/2 inch in front of D-4. Square up from D-5.
to 1 is
1/8
breast plus
1.
;4.
of an inch.
Square up from
i/jj
D-D to X is breast plus % of an inch. Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above
1.
The center button

ter vest line,
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of the back from D-5 to D-2 or 3 5-16 inches. Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3.
IV2 inch back from cenline from the top button thru the center button to get the space of the bottom button extend out of an inch in front of center vest line
is
draw a
Draw
D-7
is
a line from 2 to
3.
or 18 inches.
more than you come back from the center vest line for the buttons and shape the front from A-5 thru A-4 and M and
on thru to G-1.
D-8 is 1/0 inch out from D-7. E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 16
inches.
Shape stand and
collar
from A-6 down
to
front of vest.
E-4 is 1/2 inch out from E-3. Square down from E-3. Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8.
4 6
is
I/4.
Shape the back from gram.
A down
to 10 as dia-
Lay a
piece of paper under the pattern and
trace off the collar.
breast from
2.
5 is 14 breast less
is
14.
inch from A-1.

5.
14.
% of an inch below
is 1/2
X-1 X-2
E-5
is 1/2
is 1/2
E-6 is 1/2 Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2
1 inch in from D-1. waist plus 14 inch in from E-4. waist plus 1 inch in from E-1.
breast plus breast plus
inch in from D-8.
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount at D-3, measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the strap measure plus -j^ of an inch for
make
up.
Apply overshoulder measure plus of an inch for make up on broken lines.

to E-6.
-d^
31
CLERICAL VEST
The measurements are as follows :Breast
Waist Waist depression 2
36 32
in.
in. in.
Scye depth ^_ 8i/o Waist lenpfth 17

Full length
in.
in.
Side length ___ 231/.
in. in.
in.
27
in.
Blade Strap
llVi
111/2
Over shoulder
1(5
"
1.
in.
Collar 141/^
in.
A A
C
to
to
A-A
is
i/h
breast plus
'
of an inch.
to
B
to
is
the same as from

is 1/2
A-A.
Shape top of back from A to 2. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru
D-3.
A-A
to to
C
is
breast.
D E
is 21/2
inches.
Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. A-3 is Vij breast plus 1 inch up from A-1.
10 is 2 inches below E-1. A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. Shape from A down to 10. Shape neck from A-1 to the front as diagram. Apply collar size from A to 2 and from A-1 down plus %. of an inch to A-4. A-5 is 1 inch from A-4. Shape from A-5 thru D-8 and E-4 down to G as diagram. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply this amount at D-3 measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the strap measure plus 1 inch. Apply the over shoulder measure on broken lines plus of an inch.
;
Square out from D and E. E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches.

a line from E-1 to B to locate D-1. D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure llVi. inches. Square up from D-3 to get point D-D. D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. D-5 is 11/0 inch in from D-4. Square up from D-5.
Draw
to 1 is
i/g
breast plus
1.
1 inch.
Square up from
1
D-D to X is 8 breast plus 1 Draw a line from X to A to

1.
inch.
get point 2 above
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from D-5 to D-2 or 314 inches. Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3.
Diagram of
collar is
shown on vest
front.
Draw
D-7
is
a line from 2 to
3.
THE COLLAR.
Measure the
case
it
or 18 inches.
full
size of
neck hole,
in this
D-8 is 114 inch out from D-7. E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 16
inches.
of an inch for seams which leaves 714 collar size and draft as follows
is
-Ji
8 inches and deduct
E-4 is 114 inch out from E-3. Square down from E-3. Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. A-2 is Vs breast plus 1/2 inch down from A-1. Square out from A-2.
4 5 6
is
Draw a straight line from A to B is 714 inches.
A.
Square down from A half the collar size which is 3-% inches to C. Square over from C and down from B to get
D.
14 breast
from
2.
is 1/4 is
X-1 is X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-1. E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-4. E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-1. Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. Draw a line from X-4 to X-3.
breast less 14 inch from A-1. of an inch below 5. 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-8.
D A
E is collar width 1 inch. to F is collar width I14 inch. Square out from F as diagram.
to
'
1.
Place your collar size on

G.
and
line
to get
Draw a line from D to G. Square up from G the width of

point H.
collar to get
Draw
a line
from
to
E and
shape as dia-
gram.
Mti.
33
FULL DRESS VEST

Breast
38 34
2
in.
in.
Scye depth __ Syis Waist length 17

Full length __28
in.
in. in.
Blade Side length
11%
_
in. in.
in.
24
18
in.
Opening
in.
Over shoulder 17 y^
in-
Strap 12
34
M
6
is
% of an inch below
is 1/2
5.
A to A-A is Vs breast plus % of an inch. A to B is the same as from A to A-A.

A-A
to
X-1
breast plus breast plus
1 1
inch in from D-8. inch in from D-1.
X-2
E-5 E-6
is 1/2 is 1/2
is 1/2
is 1/2
breast.
waist plus
waist plus
1
1
inch in from E-4. inch in from E-1.
C to D is A-A to D
21/0 inches.
gives the proportions for the strap
Shape from X-1

X-3 X-4
is 1 is 1
to E-5
and from X-2
to E-6.
measure.
inch below D-5.

inch below D-3.
line
to
D
E
gives the proportions for the scye
depth.
Draw a
from X-4
to X-3.
to
is
Square out from
and E.
to
E E-1 Draw a
to
is
the waist depression 2 inches.
Shape top of back from A to 2. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru
D-3.
line
from E-1
inch.
B which
locates
point D-1.
D-1 to D-2
is 1 is
Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. of an inch up from A-3 is i/a breast plus
D-2 to D-3
the blade measure 11%. inches.

10
is
A-1.
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. D-5
is
2 inches below E-1.
A-3 to
is

is
inch.
1
IV2 inch in front of D-4.

breast plus
1.
A-3 to G-1
A-1 to A-4
the
to
full
length plus
inch.
Square up from D-5.
Shape from 10
and from
to G-1.
to 1 is
1/3
% of an inch.
'-''/i.
is 1/2
is 1
inch.
inch.
1 inch.
Square up from
A-3
plus
to
to
A-5
D-D to X is % breast Draw a line from X

above
D-3 to D-6
1.
of an inch.
A-3 to
M is
a line
the opening plus
to locate point 2
Square back from
1-6 breast to locate M-1.
is
one half the width of back from
from A-4 to M-1. Shape from A-3 to A-4 and down
Draw
to
M
to
as
D-5 to D-2 or 3 7-16 inches.
diagram.
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 to 3. D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2
or 19 inches.
Shape stand and

as diagram.
collar
from A-5 down
to E-4 and down to G-1. Shape the back from A down to 10. Lay piece of paper under pattern and trace
Shape from
D-8
is
114 inch out from D-7.

is
off
the collar.
E-1 to E-2
2 inches.
half the waist
E-2 to E-3
inches.
is
measure or 17
E-4
is
114 inch out from E-3.
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount at D-3 and measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives of an inch you the strap measure plus
for
make
-^^
up.
Draw a
4 is 5 is
1/4
from E-4 up thru D-8. 14 breast from 2.

line
Aiply over shoulder measure on broken lines

plus
I
of an inch for
make
up.
breast less 14 inch from A-1.
IIl
35
REGULAR SLEEVE FOR SACK COAT AND OVERCOAT
36
"W
The measurements are as follows Arm scye 18 inches. Inseam length 18

:
inches.
Draft as follows
Square down and back from A.
A
B B E
B E
to to to
is
B
C
is
14 the
inch.
arm
scye.
is 1
is
the inseam length.
half
way between B and
D.
Square out and back from B,

to B-1 is 114, inch. to E-1 is 34 of to
E and
D.
an inch.
V/i inch. Draw a line from B-1 to E-1 and from E-1 to D-1 and shape. C to A-1 is 1/2 the arm scye. Draw a line from C to A-1. X is half way between C and A-1.
is
D-1
Square up 14 the arm scye from

X-1.
to locate
Draw
a line from X-1 to
C and from X-1
to
A-1.
Square down from A-1 to locate B-2 and E-2. Square up from line B-1 and B-2 thru X to locate X-2 and B-3. Shape from A-1 to X-2 and down thru C to
B-1.
A-1 to A-2
is 1
inch.
Draw
B-4 D-2
is
a line
from A-2
to B-3.
114 inch back from B. is 114 inch back from D. Draw a line from B-4 to D-2 to locate E-3. E-3 to E-4 is 34 of an inch. Shape from B-4 thru E-4 to D-2.
Shape from A-2 down thru B-3 to B-4. E-2 to E-5 is of an inch. D to D-3 is the cuff size or 13 on the halves. Square down I14 inch from D-3 to get D-4. Draw a line from D-4 to D and shape. Draw a line from A-1 to E-5 and from E-5 to D-4 and shape. Draw a line from A-2 to E-5 and shape. This finishes the draft.
37
-m/r
follows:
A-3 to A-4
is 1/2
inch.
Arm
scye 22 inches.
Apply the
1
full
shoulder width measure plus
inch from X-7 to X-3 and take out half
Inseam 18 inches.
Front shoulder height 10l^ Front shoulder width
Full shoulder width
in.
the amount on each side of X-1 that the distance from X-7 to X-3 is larger than the full shoulder width measure with the inch added which locates points X-8 and X-9.
C-1 to C-3
is
5%
in.
7l/_>
in.
Back shoulder width 614. in. Back shoulder height 714. in. Under arm scye measure of sleeve 10 Square down and in from A.
the same as from C-2 to C-1.

to C-3.
in.
Draw a line from X-3 C to C-4 is 11/2 inch.
A
B
C
to to to
is
B
C
is
the front shoulder height.

inch.
is 1 is
Shape from C-4 to D-2 as diagram. D-1 to D-3 is 2 inches.
the inseam length.
Draw
a line from D-3 to D.

is
E F
half way between C and D.

14 the
to
D-4
the width of cuff or
71/2 inches.
is
arm
scye measure up from C.

C,
Square back from F,

Square out from
C,
E and
D.
and D.
scye measure.
Shape from D-4 to D-2. Draw a line from E-1 to D-4 and shape. D-1 to D-5 is the same as from D-1 to D
11/2 inch.
less
B Draw
B-1
to F-1
is 1/2
the
arm
a line from
half
to F-1.
Draw
F-1.
a line from D-5 to D-3.

is
is
way between B and
D-3 to D-6
the same as from D-3 to D-4.
Square up 14 the arm scye measure from

B-1 on line
Draw
a line from E-1 to D-6 and shape.

to
B and
F-1 to locate X.
Shape from A-1

C-4.
X-7 and down thru
to
Draw
a line from
to F-1.
Square up and down from F-1 to locate C-1,

E-1 and D-1.
Square up from
locate C-2
line
C and
C-1 thru B-1 to
Shape from A-3 to X-3 and down as diagram. Apply the back shoulder height measure from A-3 down to locate 0. Apply the under arm scye measure plus 2 inches from B to C-4 and place this amount on O and measure down to locate C-5.
and X-1.
Square out and back from X-1 to locate X-2
and X-3.
F-1 to
A-A
in
is
the back shoulder height.
Square
from A-A.
is is
Shape from C-5 to D-5. D-7 is half way between

E-2
and D-4.
X-1 to X-4
the front shoulder width.

the back shoulder width.
to line
X-1 to X-5
Sweep from X-4 pivoting on X-1

locate A-1.
to
A-1 to A-2
is 1
inch.
Draw
X-6
to
a line from A-1 to
to locate X-6.
X-7
is 1/2
inch. to line
Sweep from X-5 pivoting on X-1 back
is half way between E and E-1. Shape from A-2 down thru X-9, keep 14 inch back of points C, E-2 and D-7. Shape from A-4 down thru X-8, keep 14 inch in front of points C-2, E-2 and D-7. The 1/2 inch is for seams and must be allowed after cutting out the pattern, if seam is wanted in the back of sleeve make the changes as per broken lines.
A-A
to locate A-3.
jm:
39
ta?"
SOLID RAGLAN SLEEVE
-4-
OS
40
IK
follows:
D-2 to D-5
is
the
same as from
to
D-2
less
Arm
scye 22 inches.
11/2 inch.
Inseam length 18 inches.

Front shoulder width
Draw
inches.
a line from D-5 to D-3.

is
5%
D-3 to D-6
the same as from D-3 to D-4.
Under arm scye measure 10

Square down from A.
inches.
Draw

line
Square up from
B and
B-2 thru
to
lo-
A
C
to
is
i/j.
the
arm
scye measure.
cate X-2 and B-3.
is 1
inch up from B.
is
B-2 to B-4
is
the same as from B-2 to B-3.

inch from A-1 to locate A-2 for
to
is
the inseam length.
Square up
D. D.
half
way between B and
the back sleeve notch.
Square back from A, B,
E and
Square back
li/>
inch from X-2 to locate X-3.
Square out from
B and
D.
X-2
less
to
1/2
X-4
is
the front shoulder width
to B-1 is 11/2 inch.
inch.
to the front.
Square down from B-1 to locate D-1.
Sweep from X-4 pivoting on X-3

Shape from B-1
to D-1.
X-4
to to
X-5
is 1/2
inch.
to
A-1
is 1/0
the
arm
scye.
X-5
X-6
is 1
inch.
Draw
a line from
to A-1.
Draw
a line from X-5 to C.

to
is
half
way between C and
A-1.
Shape from X-6 down

Square up from
C and
B-1.
on
line
C and A-1
Vi the
Draw
a line from X-5 to A-2. a line from B-4 to A-2.

to
arm
scye to get X-1.
Draw
Draw
a line from X-1 to A-1.
Shape from X-5

Square down from A-1 to locate B-2, E-1 and
D-2.
A-2 and down as diagram.
Apply the under arm scye measure plus 3

D-3
is
2 inches below D-2.
inches from
B-5.
7y-> inches.
to B-1
and A-2 down
to
Draw
a line from D-3 to D.

is
to
D-4
the width of cuff or

to D-1.
Shape from B-5
to D-6.
Shape from D-4
Shape from D-5
to D-6.
Draw
41
BALMACANN SLEEVE
The meusurements are as
follows:
Arm
scye 22 inches.
Front shoulder width
5'"'
i
inches.
Inseam 18 inches.
Front shoulder heij^ht 101
Front under arm
scj'e
i.
Back shoulder height

inches.
7'
|,
inches.
inches.
9' o inches.
Back shoulder width 6V!
length 5 inches.
Back under arm scye length
Full shoulder
width
in
7V1> inches.
X-1 to A-1
X-1 to A-2
is is
the front shoulder width. the back shoulder width.

to line A, pivoting
Draft as follows
Square down and
from A.
Sweep from A-1

locate A-3.
on X-1 to
A
B
C C F
to to
to
B
C
is is 1
the front shoulder height.

inch. inch.
Draw
a line from A-3 to

is 1/2
to locate X-4.
D
E
is 11/2 is
X-4 to X-5
to D-1.
inch.
to
is
the inseam length.
Shape from A-3 down thru X-5, B and thru
way between E and C. G is 14. the arm scye measure up from C. Square back from G, C, D, F and E. B to G-1 is 1/0 the arm scye measure. Draw a line from B to G-1. B-1 is half way between B and G-1. Square up 14 the arm scye measure from B-1
half
to
D-3
plus
is
1/2
the front under

inch.
arm
scye length
Draw
A-3
to
a line from D-3 to E-4.
A-4
is 1
inch. to line
Sweep from A-2 pivoting on X-1

to locate A-5.
A-A
on
line
B and
G-1 to locate X.
to locate C-1,
A-5 to A-6
is 1/2
inch.
from X to G-1. Square up and down from G-1 F-1 and E-1. Square out from D and E.
Draw
a line
a line from X-2 to D-2. Shape from A-5 down thru X-2 to line D-2. Apply the back shoulder height from A-5
Draw
down
on the
to locate 0.
to E-2 is the cuff size 16 inches
Apply the back under arm scye length from
halves.
E-3
is
half
is
way between E and

the
down
E-2.
to
D-4 plus
II/2 inch.
same as from E to E-3. Square up from E-4 to locate D-1. E-1 to E-5 is the same as from E-1 to E-2. E-5 to E-6 is the same as from E-2 to E-3. Square up from E-6 to locate D-2. Square down IV2 inch from E-2 to get 1. Draw a line from 1 to E and shape from 1 to
to
E-4
Draw a
line
from D-4
to E-6.
to
1
Measure the distance from X-5

in this case is 9 inches,
full
X-2 which
inch to the
add
shoulder
width
measure,
which
makes it 8V2 inches, apply the 8V2 inches from X-5 to X-2 and take the V2 inch
out at X-1 as diagram 14 inch on each
side of X-1,
E dropping at E-4 as diagram. Draw a line from F-1 to 1 and shape.

Square down IV2 inch from E-5 to get Draw a line from F-1 to 2 and shape.
shape to
F-2
is 2.
which gives you points X-6
and X-7.
Shape from A-4 down thru X-7 and keep V2 inch back of C-2, F-2 and E-3. Shape from A-6 down thru X-6 and keep
inch in front of C-2, F-2 and E-3.
1/2
Drop below E-6 the same as below E-4 and

2.
way between F and F-1. Square up from line C and C-1 thru B-1
half
locate X-1 and C-2.
Cut the pattern thru from A-6 down

to cuff
to the
and paste a piece of paper on the
fore part of the sleeve, then lay the
Square out and back from X-1 to locate X-2 and X-3.
G-1 to
pattern together the same as before
it
was cut and trace

line
off
the fore part from
A-A
in
is
the back shoulder height.
A-4 down.
Square
from A-A.
.iH.
43
REGULAR SACK COAT

Breast
follows:
in.
in.
36 32
in.
in.
Scye depth _ 8 1/2 Waist length 17

Full length ^_30
2 in.
in.
Blade Overshoulder Strap
lll^
in. in.
-16%
111/2 in.
Seat 37
in.
The above from A-A
to
gives the propor-
A A
to
to
A-A
is i/s
breast plus
% of an inch.
A
to
tions for the strap measure.
is
the same as from

is
1/2
A-A.
to
A-A to C C to D is
breast.
21/0
inches always.
A A
to
to
D is the proportions for E is the waist length.

F
is
the scye depth.
6 inches.
"-*'"
44
A
E
to
is
the full length.
E-6 to E-7
G.
is
134 inches.
Square out from D, E,

E-2
half
F and
Draw
to E-1 is the waist depression.

is
from E-7 up through D-11. Square down from E-7 to locate G-3.
a line
way between E and E-1. Square down from E-2 to locate F-1 and Draw a line from E-2 to B to locate D-1
D-2
is
G-3 to G-4
G-1.
is
3 inches.
G-3 to G-5
F-2 to F-3
114.
is
is
3 inches.
the same as from
to F-1 plus
114 inch in from D-1.

i/s
inches.
to 1 is
breast plus
1.
1 inch.
Square up from
Draw a line from E-3 through F-3. Shape the side seam as diagram.
E-3 to G-6
is
D-2 to D-.3 is the blade measure. Square up from D-3 to locate D-D.
the same as from E-4 to G-2.
Draw
2 above
D-D to X is i/y breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X to A to get point
1.
of an inch. Square out from A-2 to locate A-3. Go down 91/2 inches from A-3 to get bottom of
roll.
a line from G-6 to G-4. A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus
D-4 is half way between D-3 and D-1. D-5 is li/> inch in from D-4. Square up and down from D-.5 to locate points
E-3, F-2, G-2.
A-4
D-6 D-7
is
is
% of an inch below D-5. % of an inch below D-3.
114 inch in front of A-1. Draw a line from the bottom of roll up through A-4 and from A-1 back on the opposite side of square.
is
Shape from A-1

A-1 to 7
inch.
is
to A-3.
1/0
a line from D-7 to D-6. D-8 is 1 inch up from D-7 for front sleeve notch.
Draw
the same as from 2 to 4 less

7.
is 1/2
inch below
D-9
is 1/2
the width of back from D-5 to D-2 in front of D-3.

3.
I/2
Square up from D-9 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate point Draw a line from 2 through 3 e.xtending
5
is
inch out from 3 to get point 1-12 breast up from D-6.

in front of 5,
4.
Shape from 8 to A-1. Shape from 8 through D-8 down. Shape from 6 down. The arm scye measure is 18 14 inches. Come up 14 the arm scye from D-6 to get point X-X for the back sleeve notch. A-1 to A-5 is the same as from A to 2 plus 14
inch.
Square out
cate
6.
% of an
inch to
lo-
A-6
is 21/2
inches in front of crease line at
the same distance from E-3 as from E-1 to E-2. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 6 to E-4. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from A to 2 and from 4 to 14 inch in front of 5 as diagram. Shape from 14 inch back of 6 to E-4, F-2 and G-2 as diagram. D-10 is one half the breast measure out from
E-4
is
lapel.
Drop your collar of an inch below A-6 as diagram and shape from A-1 down. Square up from A-5 and shape the collar and lapel. Shape from bottom of lapel down through E-7 and G-5. Apply the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch
on broken lines. Apply the strap measure by measuring the amount from A to 2 and placing the amount on D-3 and measure up to A-1
plus
1
D-2.
D-11 is 214 inches out from D-10. E-1 to E-5 is 2 inches half the amount that waist is smaller than the breast. E-5 to E-6 is half the waist measure.
inch.
45
THREE BUTTON
D. B.
SACK COAT
The measurements
Breast
38
in.
in. in.
are as follows
in.
in.
Scye depth _. 8"h Waist length 17
FuU length
--301/. in.
in.
Blade 11%. Overshoulder -IT'^ Strap 12
in. in.
in.
Seat 39
4G
Square down and out from A. of an inch. A to B is i/s breast plus
A-1 to 5
inch.
is
the
same as from
5.
2 to 4 less
1/2
A A
D
to to to to
is
is is
the scye depth. the waist length.

6 inches.
\
is 1/2 iiich
below
D
E F
A
D
is
the
full length.
Shape from 8 to A-1. Shape from 8 through G-2 and down. Shape from 7 down.
C-7
is
Square out from C, D,

to
E and
F.
one half breast out from C-2.

is
D-1
is
is
the waist depression.
C-7 to C-8
414 inches.
2 inches.
D-2
half way between
and D-1.
D-1 to D-4
is
is is
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1.
C-1 to C-2
is 114. is
D-4
to
D-5
one half the waist measure.

414 inches.
D-5 to D-6
inch.
Draw
a line from D-6 up through C-8.

is i/s
C-2 to C-3
the blade measure.

to locate X.
1
A-1 to A-2
breast plus ^^ of an inch.
Square up from C-3

X-1
is
Square out from A-2.
Vs breast plus a line
inch up from
Draw
from X-1 to A.
1
1 is 1/8
breast plus
1
inch in from A.
Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. Draw a line from i/4 inch back of 7 to D-7.
Square up from
C-4
is
to locate 2.
Draw
half
way between
C-1 and C-3.
C-5
is
IV2 inch in from C-4.

to locate D-3,
a line from D-7 to E-2. Shape from D-7 through E-2 to F-2. E-2 to E-3 is the same as E to E-1 plus 1V4
inch.
Square up and down from C-5 E-2 and F-2.
Draw
a line from D-3 through E-3 down.
is ; 4.
of an inch of
G-1
is 3,4
down from C-5. an inch down from C-3.

from
Draw
G-2
is
a line
1
to G-1.
Shape the side seams. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to Square down from D-5 to locate F-4.
F-5
is
F-2.
inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
3 inches in front of F-4.
notch.
Square down 2V2 inches from F-5 to locate

F-6.
C-6
is
one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3 in this case it is 3%
to locate A-1.
Draw Draw
A-3
is
a line
from F-3 to F-6. a line from D-6 to F-6.
inches.
Square up from C-6
The
1/2
Draw Draw
6 is
a line from A-1 to

a line
to locate 3.
114 inch in front of A-1. 13 inches long or 13 inches below line A-2.
roll is
from 2 through 3 extending

4.
inch out from 3 to get point

1-12 breast up
Square out
%
A
from G. of an inch from 6

to 2.
a line from A-3 to bottom of lapel. A-4 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line. Shape lapel and front as diagram. Apply over shoulder and strap measure the
Draw
to get 7.
same as on the regular sack
coat.
Shape from
The
inch in front of
6.
sleeve
and
collar are also the
same.
Shape from 4
to
i'4.
47
m
STOUT MANS SACK COAT

Breast
follows
in.
in.
44 44
2
in.
in.
Scye depth Waist length

Full length
10
__
17
in.
___ 30 in.
in.
131/4.
in.
-19%
131/2
in.
in-
Seat 45
^
48
:ii:
Square down and out from A. of an inch. A to B is Vs breast plus

'
j.
Shape from
8 to
A-1 as diagram.
Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down. Shape from 7 down.

C-7
is
A A
D
to to to
is is
the scye depth.
the waist length.
E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1.
Square down from D-2
to locate E-1 to
C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches less Vi inch for each inch the waist is larger than normal. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure.
D-5 to D-6
is
1%
inches.
and F-1.
locates
Draw
a line
from D-2
114 inch.
B which
point C-1.
a line from D-6 up thru C-8. of an inch. A-1 to A-2 is ViJ breast plus Square out from A-2. Draw a line from top of line C-5 to the front
'?
Draw
i.
C-1 to C-2
is is
of line A-2 and shape the neck from A-1

to the front.
C-2 to C-3
the blade measure.
Square up from C-3 to locate X.

X-1
is
1
D-3 to D-7
breast plus
inch up from X.
Draw Draw
is 1/2 the amount from D-1 to D-2. a line from 14 inch back of 7 to D-7. a line from D-7 to E-2.
Draw
1 is
a line from X-1 to A.
%
is
breast plus
inch in from A.
Shape from D-7 thru E-2 to F-2. E-2 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-1 plus
114 inch. a line from D-3 thru E-3 down. Shape the side seam. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2.
Square up from
C-4
C-5
half
to get 2.
way between
C-1 and C-3.
Draw
is 11/2
inch in from C-4.
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 and F-2.

F-4 to F-5 F-4 to F-6
is is
to locate F-4.
3 inches.
3 inches.
is -j^ is
'
of an inch
V
down from
to G-1.
C-5.
G-1
of an inch below C-3.
Draw
a line
from F-3
to F-5.
Draw
G-2
C-6
is
a line from
1
Shape from D-6 down thru F-6 as diagram. A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1.
notch.
is
The length of
lapel is 9 inches.
one half the width of back from C-5
to C-2 in front of C-3 or
3%
inches in
this case.
a line from the bottom of lapel to A-3. A-4 is half the length of lapel. Lay your square on A-4 and A-3 and draw a
Draw
line
back from A-3 on the two sides of
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1
Draw Draw
a line
from A-1
to
to locate 3.
a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 inch out from 3 to get point 4.
the square. A-1 to A-5 is V2 inch more than from A to 2. Square up from A-5 and shape the collar and
lapel.
6 is 1-12 breast
up from G.
7.
The arm scye
is
Square out
% of an inch from 6 to get
to
XX
is
14 the
22 inches. arm scye measure for back
Shape from A to 2. Shape from 4 to Vi inch in front of 6. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less
inch.
sleeve notch.
1/0
Apply overshoulder measure plus 1 inch on broken lines. Apply strap measure from A to 2 and from
C-3 to A-1 plus 1 inch. This finishes the draft.
is 1/2
inch below 5
49
'.'T
SACK COAT FOR STOOPING AND SWAY TO FRONT FORM

Breast
Waist Waist dep's'n
38 36
1-2 1/2
in.
in.
Scye depth
__
914
in.
Wai.st length 17
Full length __30
in.
in.
in.
Blade 12ii Overshoulder .18 11''54 Strap
in.
in. in.
Seat 40
in.
50
A A
A D A
D
to to to to to
B
C
is is
is is is
Vs breast plus
% of an inch.
Shape from 3 to 14 inch in front of A-2 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 3

inch.
6.
less
1/2
the scye depth.

the waist length.
6 inches.
D
E
F
is 1/2
inch below
5.
the
full length.
Square out from

to
C, D,
and
F.
D-1
is
is
way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates
D-2
half
F-1. C-1.
Shape from 8 to A-2. Shape from 8 through G-2 and down. Shape from 7 dowr. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches less 1,4 inch for each inch waist is larger than norma,l (\v
11/2
inches.
is
C-1 to C-2
is
114 inch.
the normal blade measure for a
D-4 to D-5
C-2 to
is
D-5 to D-6
is
1%
inches.
38 coat or
C-2 to C-3
is
11%
inches in this case.

121/4.
Draw
the blade measure
inches.
a line from D-6 up through C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H. H to H-1 is 3 inches.
to H-2 is 3 inches. of an inch. A-2 to A-3 is i/s breast plus Square out from A-3. Shape the neck from A-2 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is one half the amount from D-1

X-1
is 1/8
breast plus
inch up frum X.
Draw
1 is Vs
breast plus
inch in front of A.
locate 2. C-1
Square up from
C-4 C-5
is
1 to
to D-2.
half
way between
and K.
is 11/2
inch plus the difference from
to
Draw Draw
a line from l^ inch back of 7 to D-7. a line from D-7 to E-2.

to F-2.
is
C-3 in front of C-4.
Shape from D-7 through E-2

E-2 to E-3
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 and F-2.
is
% of an inch below C-5.

is
-''/i.
G-1 G-2
C-6
Draw
is
a line
1
from
114 inch. You can see by the diagram of the stooping form and sway to the front form that the yard stick is 1 inch away from the seat, therefore you do not add the amount from E to E-1
in
to G-1.
with E-3.
a line from D-3 through E-3 down.
Draw
notch.
is
one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of K or 3"'a inches in this
case.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Shape from A to 2. Measure the neck from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3 and measure up the amount of the strap measure plus 1 inch
to locate A-2.
side seams. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. Draw a line from F-3 to H-1. A-4 is 11/4. inch in front of A-1. The lapel is 9 inches below line A-3 at top
Shape the
button.
a line from A-4 to the bottom of lapel. A-5 is 2 inches in front of the crease line. Shape lapel and front as diagram. The sleeve and collar are the same as the re-
Draw
Draw Draw
6 is
a line from A-2 to B to locate a line from 2 to 3. 1-12 breast up from G.
3.
Take
7.
gular sack coat. 1/2 inch out of the back as per broken
lines.
Square out
of an inch from 6 to get
51
a.
as-
-^m
SACK COAT FOR ERECT FORM WITH FULL CHEST, SMALL WAIST AND BACK

Breast
follows
in.
in.
in.
Waist Waist dep's'n
38 33
2i/o-l
in. in.
in.
Scye depth __ 8I/2 Waist length 17

Full length __30
^ Blade 111/4 Overshoulder -17 14 Strap 121/2
in. in. in.
Seat 39.
52
is
1-12 breast up
A A A D A
D
to
to to
B
C
is is is is
Vs breast plus
% of an inch.

6 inches.
to
to
D E F
Square out to get 7. Shape from 4 to 14 inch in front of 6. A-2 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less
inch.
from G. of an inch from 6
1/2
is
the
full length.
8
F.
is 1/2
inch below
5.
Square out from

to
C, D,
E and
D-1
is
the waist depression 2V2 inches
less the 1 inch at the blade or IV2 inch
Shape from 8 to A-2. Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down. Shape from 7 down.
C-7
C-8
is is
depression.
way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates
D-2
is
half
one half breast out from C-2. 214 inches out from C-7.
F-1.
D-1 to D-4
C-1.
C-1 to C-2
is
114 inch.
is 2 inches plus 14 inch for each inch that the waist is smaller than normal or 2 i/t inches. is is
C-2 to K is the normal blade measure for a 38 coat which is 11% inches.
C-2 to C-3
is
D-4 to D-5 D-5 to D-6
1%
inches.
the blade measure 11^4 inches.
Draw a

X-1
1 is
is
from D-6 up thru C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H.

line
Vs breast plus 1 inch
up from X.
Draw
a line from X-1 to A. Va breast plus 1 inch in from A.

1
H H
to
to
HI
H-2
is is
3 inches. 3 inches.
is
A-2 to A-3
Vh breast plus
Square up from
% of an inch.
to locate 2.
C-4 is half way between C-1 and K. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch for the regular coat, but in this case deduct the difference from C-3 to K from the IV2 inch to get point C-5. Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 and F-2. is G 34 of an inch below C-5. of an inch below C-3. G-1 is Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
Shape the neck from A-2 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 to D-7.
Draw
a line from D-7 to E-2. Shape from D-7 thru E-2 to F-2.
is 1
E-2 to E-3
inch taken off the depression

to E-1
measure and the amount from E

plus 114 inch or 3 inches. Draw a line from D-3 thru E-3 down. Shape the side seam.
notch.
D-3 to F-3
one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of K or SVa inches. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1.
C-6
is
Draw
A-4
is
is the same as from D-7 to F-2. a line from F-3 to H-1.
114 inch in front of A-1.
Shape from A to 2. Measure the neck from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3 and measure up the amount of the strap measure plus 1 inch to locate A-2. Draw a line from A-2 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 '"ch out from 3 to
get point
4.
below line A-3. a line from A-4 to the bottom of lapel. A-5 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line. Shape lapel and front as diagram.
lapel is 10 inches
The
Draw
The
sleeve and collar are the
same as
for the
regular sack coat. Apply over shoulder measure the for regular sack coat. This finishes the draft.
same as
-i?=H
53
MILITARY COAT

Breast
36
in. in. in.
Waist 32 Waist depression 2
Scye depth __ S'/j Waist length 17

Full length __30
in.
in.
in.
llVi.
-16'^'\.
.
in. in. in.
111/2
Seat 37.
Sciuare
Collar size 14V2-
down and out from A. A-A is Vji breast plus of an inch. A to B is the same as from A to A-A. A-A to C is 1/2 breast. C to D is 21/2 inches always. The above from A-A to D gives you the pro-
A
E
to
is
the
full length.
to
-^
Square out from D, E, F and G.

to E-1 is the waist depression.
is
E-2
Draw
half way between E and E-1. a line from E-2 to B to locate D-1. G-1 is the same distance from G as E-2
is
from E.
portions for the strap measure which is 111/. inches in this case. I'rom A to D gives you the proportions for
Draw
a line from E-2 to G-1 and tind point F-1 on line F.

is
the .scye depth, which in this case

8'/2 inches.
is
A
V
to
is
is
114 inch. the blade measure. Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. The proportions for the blade measure
is
D-1 toD-2 D-2 to D-3
is
I/2
6 1/2 inches below E.
breast and
3I/2
inches from D-1 to D-3.
54
D-4 D-5 D-6 D-7
is
half
way between D-3 and

inch in from D-4.
D-1.
Shape back of arm scye from 4

8
to 7
and from
is 11/2
down thru D-9

is
i/f)
to bottom.
1/2
Square up from D-5.

is is
A-1 to A-2
breast plus
inch.
% % of an inch below D-3.

of an inch below D-5.
Draw
a line from D-3 to D-7 and from D-5 to

a line
1
D-6.
Draw
D-8
from D-6 to D-7. inch up from D-7 for front sleeve notch.
is
D-9 is one half breast out from D-1. D-10 is half way between D-1 and D-9. D-2 to D-11 is one half the breast measure. E-1 to E-3 is 2 inches. E-3 to E-4 is one half the waist measure. D-3 to D-12 is one half the width of back from D-5 to D-2 or 314, inches in this
case.
Square up from D-12 to get A-1.
to 1 is
Vf!
breast plus
1.
1 inch.
Square up from
D-D to X is V breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X to A to locate point Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 14
2.
inch out from 3 to get point 4. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less
Square out from A-2. D-11 to D-13 is li/t inch for center of front. E-4 to E-9 is 114 inch for center of front. Square down from E-9 to locate points F-6 and G-3. Draw a line from E-9 thru D-13 and up. D-13 to D-14 is 1% inches for stand. E-9 to E-10 is 1% inches for stand. G-3 to G-4 is of an inch. G-3 to G-5 is 21/4. inches. F-6 to F-7 is 21/2 inches. Measure off your seat plus li/> inch for ease from F-7. Draw a line from G-2 to G-5. Draw a line from E-10 thru G-4 down. Draw a line from E-10 up thru D-14. Shape neck from A-1 to front of coat as diagram. Measure your back from A to 2 and apply this amount at A-1 and measure front of neck from A-1 down half the collar size plus 114 inch for seams and make up to
?'!.
get point A-3.
of an inch.
inch below 5. Shape from 6 to A-1 as diagram. Shape from A to 2. 7 is half way between 3 and D-6. 8 is of an inch out from 7. Square a line from D-9 down to bottom of coat which locates point E-5 at waist and F-2
6
is 1/2
A-4 is 1% inches from A-3. Shape your front as diagram. The overshoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for a regular sack
coat.
THE COLLAR.
Measure the
this case
full size of
is
neck hole, which
in
at hip.
F-2 to F-3 E-5 to E-6
is 11/2 is 1
inch.
8 1/2 inches, and deduct of an inch for seams which gives you a neck hole of 7'; j, inches and draft as follows
inch.
Shape from D-9 to E-5 thru F-3 and down. Shape from D-9 to E-6 thru F-2 and down. E-7 is half way between E-6 and D. Square down from E-7 to get point F-4 on
line F.
Draw a straight line from A. A to B is the collar size 7% inches.
A half the collar size or inches to C. Square out from C and down from B to get point D.
Square down from
3y}{
F-4 to F-5 is IV4 inch. E-8 is 1 inch in front of E-7. Shape from 7 thru D-10 and down to E-7. Shape from 7 thru D-10 down thru E-8 and
F-5.
D to E is the width of collar 1% inches. A to F is the width of collar 1% inches.

Square out from F as diagram. Place your collar size on point
to get point G.
and
line
Measure your back length from E-7 to bottom and apply this measure at E-8 down
to get point G-2.
Shape arm scye from 6 down thru D-8 to bottom as diagram.
G the width of collar to get H. Drav.- a line from H to E and shape the collar as diagram. This finishes the draft.
Square up from
55
REGULAR CHESTERFIELD OVER COAT WITH FLY FRONT

Breast
40
:]()
:-
in. in.
in.
Scye depth ._ 914 Waist length 17 '.j

Full length
in.
in.
-42
in.
12 1/4. Blade Overshoulder -18 '4. Strap 121/2
in. in.
in.
56
Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down.
E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Sciuare out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1.
to
A A A D
to
to
B
C
is is
is
Vii
breast plus
'
|.
of an inch.
Shape from
C-7
is is
down.

314 inches out from C-7.
is is is
to
C-8
D-1 to D-4
2 inches.
D-4 to D-5
one half the waist measure. 314 inches.
D-5 to D-6
Draw
F-1.
a line from D-6 up thru C-8.

to locate
H.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and
Draw
a line from D-2 to

11/4.
to locate C-1.
H to H-1 is 2 inches. H to H-2 is 1 inch.

Draw
a line from D-6 thru H-2.
is
Ij!
C-1 to C-2 is
inch.
C-2 to C-3
is
the blade measure.
A-1 to A-2
breast plus
Ji.
of an inch.

X-1
is
Vk breast plus
inch up from X.
Shape the neck from A-1

D-3 to D-7
is
to the front. to
Draw
1 is
half the
amount from D-1
Vf!
breast measure plus

1
inch in from A.
D-2.
Square up from
C-4
C-5
is
to locate 2.
half
way between
C-1 and C-3.
Draw Draw
a line
from
V\.
inch back of 6 to D-7.
a line from D-7 to E-2.
is 11/2
inch from C-4.

to locate D-3.
Square up and down from C-5 E-2 and F-2.
Shape from D-7 thru E-2 down as diagram. E-2 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-1 plus
11/,,
inch,
is
1%. inch below C-5.

is
Draw
a line from D-7 thru E-3 down, and
1%. inch below C-3. Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
G-1
shape as diagram.
D-7 to F-3
is
the same as from D-7 to F-2.
notch.
C-6
is
a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape. A-3 is 114. inch in front of A-1. The roll is 10i/> inches below line A-2.
Draw
to C-2 in front of C-3.
Draw
A-4 A-5
is is
a line
from the bottom of
roll
thru A-3
line.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Shape from A to 2. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3. Measure up on the line drawn from C-3 to A-1 your strap measure plus 1 inch. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 6 is -Vj. of an inch in front of C-5. Shape from 4 to V|. inch in front of C-5. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less
"''1
up.
2%
inches in front of crease
% of an inch below A-4.
a line from A-1 back for collar stand the same amount plus 1/2 inch as from A to 2 to get point A-6. Square up from A-6 thru crease line. Shape the collar from A-1 to A-5. Shape the balance of collar as diagram. Apply the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch
Draw
on broken
lines.
'/;
inch.
The arm scye measure is 21i/_> inches. Come up 14 the arm scye from G to locate the
back sleeve notch at X-X. This finishes the draft.
8 is V2 inch below 5. Shape from 8 to A-1.
57
DOUBLE BREASTED BOX BACK OVERCOAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR

Breast
follo\vs
Waist
\A'aist
40 36
depression
2
in.
in. in.
Scye depth _. 914 in. Waist length Aiy., in.

Full length
45 Seat 41 inches.
in.
I2I4
-IS'/j.
in. in.
121/2 in.
58
Shape from 8
to A-1.
A A
to to to
B
C
is is is
is
'/!!
breast plus
-'Ki.
of an inch.

6 inches.
Shape from 8 thru G-2 down. Shape from 7 down.

C-7 C-8
is is
A
D A D
to
to
D E
F

4%. inches out from C-7.
is
is
the
full length.
D-1 to D-4
F.
2 inches.
Square out from

D-2
half
C, D,
E and
D-4 to D-5 D-5

to
is is
to D-1 is the waist depression.

is
D-6
4%
inches.
way between D and
D-1.
Draw
a line from D-6 up thru C-8.
Draw
a line from D-2 to

is 1
to locate C-1.
Square down from D-6 to locate H.
C-1 to C-2
inch.
C-2 to C-3
is
the blade measure.

to locate X.
1
H H
to to
H-1
is
2 inches.
inch.
H-2
is 1
Square up from C-3

X-1
is
Draw
a line from D-6 thru H-2.

is V)i
Va breast plus
inch up from X.
A-1 to A-2
breast plus
% of an inch.
Draw
1 is
Square out from A-2 E-2 toE-3
to get A-4. to the front.
Vi!
breast phis
1
inch in from A.
Shape the neck from A-1

is 11/2 is 31/2
Square up from
C-4 C-5
is
to locate 2.
inch.
half
way between
C-1
and
C-3.
E-3 to E-4
inches.
14,
is
IV2 inch from C-4.
Draw
Draw
Make
a line from
a line
inch back of 7 thru E-4
Square up and down from C-5 to locate E-2 and F-2.
down.
from
14.
inch back of 7 thru E-3
is
G-1
is
1% inch below C-5. 1% inch below C-3.

a line from
1
dowh.
as side
Draw
G-2
C-6
to G-1.
the side seam of back the same length seam of fore part to get F-3.
inch up from G-1 for front sleeve notch.

is is
Draw
A-3
is
a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape as dia-
gram.
114 inch in front of A-1.
14 inches below line A-2.
one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3.
The
A-5
roll is
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1.
Draw
Draw
a line from bottom of roll thru A-3 up.
Shape from
to 2.
is 1
inch below A-4.
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3, measure up on the hne drawn from C-3 to A-1 your strap measure plus 1 inch.
a line from A-1 back for the collar stand the same amount as from A to 2 plus 1/2 inch to get A-6.
Square up 4 inches from A-6 on opposite side

of crease line to get A-7.
Draw a Draw a
line
line
from A-1
to
to locate 3.
;
|.
from 2 thru 3 extending of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 6 is 1-16 breast up from G. Square out of an inch from 6 to locate 7. Shape from 4 to l^ inch in front of 6. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/-.
Shape the collar from A-1 to A-5. Shape the collar as diagram. Apply over shoulder measure as
on
our
Chesterfield overcoat measure, the
arm
The buttons are
inch.
is 1/2
inch below
5.
scye and locate sleeve notch the same. 6 inches from the edge when coat is finished and 6 inches apart. This finishes the draft.
59
BALMACANN OVERCOAT WITH MILITARY COLLAR

Breast
follows
|.
40 36
in.
in.
Scye depth __ Waist length 17
91
in.
in.
2 in.
Full length __38 in. Seat 41. Collar size 15 14.
Blade 121,4 Overshoulder -18 14 Strap 121/2
in.
inin.
A A A D A D
to
B
C
is
/!{
breast plus
"ji.
of an inch
X
A
to
to
is
is
the scye depth.

the waist length.
6 inches.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. to X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
to
1
to to
D E
F
is
i/ji
plus
inch.
is is
the
full
length.
Square out from C, D, D-2

is
Square up from 1 to locate 2. Shape from A to 2. C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1.
and
F.
C-4 to C-5
is 1 1/0
inch.
Draw
half way between D and D-1. a line from D-2 up to B to lorat C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure.
;'-!.
Square up from C-5. Square down from C-5 to locate E-1. Square down from C-3 to locate E-2. G is l-'i inches below C-5. G-1 is P'l inches below C-3.
60
a line from G to G-l. inches below G. is 21/2 inches below G-l. Draw a line from G-3 to G-4. G-5 is half way between G-3 and G-4. of an inch in front of G-5. G-6 is of an inch back from G-5. G-7 is Draw a line from G-6 down thru E-2 to cate F-1.
Draw
G-3 G-4
is 21/0
Draw a line from 2 to 5. Square out to 4 from line 2 and 5 which gives you point 11.
11 to 12 is
1/2
inch.
i5^4.
lo-
Shape from 2 thru 12 and down to 5. Measure the arm scye which is 221/2 inches and come up from G 14 the arm scye measure for the back sleeve notch to point X-X and square back to get point
O.
a line from G-7 down thru El to locate F-2. U-6 IS one half the width of the back from 0-0 to C-Z ni iront of U-3. bquare up trom o-b to locate A-1.
Draw
Measure from A-5

height.
to 8 for the front sleeve to
Measure from
height.
2 for the back sleeve
i^raw a nne from A-i to H to locate 3. Draw a line from z thru 3 extending i/o of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 5 is i/i inch in from C-5. Shape from 4 down thru 5. A-1 to 6 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2
inch. 7 to
1/2
Measure from 8
to G-7 for the front
under
arm
arm
length.
to
Measure from
length.
G-6 for the back under
Measure the distance from 12
inch below
6.
to 4 and from 10 to 7 for full shoulder width. Cut the pattern thru at G-6 and F-1 and paste a piece of paper on the fore part,
Shape from 7 to A-1. 8 is 1 inch up from G-l. Shape from 7 down thru
C-7
is
8.
then lay your pattern together the same as before and trace off the amount from G-7 to F-2.
one half breast out from C-2. C-7 to C-8 is 2 inches for a military collar or
3 inches for regular collar. D-1 to D-3 is 2 inches. D-3 to D-4 is one half the waist measure. D-4 to D-5 is 2 inches for military collar or 3 inches for regular collar.
THE MILITARY COLLAR. Measure the neck from A to 2 and from

to
A-1
A-3 which
:
Draft as follows Square out and down from A.
in this case is 9 inches.
H H
Square down from D-5 to locate H. to H-1 is 2 inches. to H-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from D-5 down thru H-2. Draw a line from D-5 up thru C-8. Shape from F to F-1.
to
is
the collar size 9 inches.

4i/j
Square down from B. A to C is one half the collar size and B to D is the same. Draw a line from C to D.
inches
A
D
to
to
E
G
is 11/2
inch.
the side seam of the forepart the same as from G-6 down on back part, and shape out to H-1. A-1 to A-2 is i/fj breast plus 1/2 inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the front. Measure the distance from A to 2 and apply the amount at A-1 and measure down half the neck size plus I14. inch to A-3. Shape from A-3 to A-4 and down the front. Draw a line from 8 to G-7 and shape. Draw a line from 5 to G-6 and shape. A-5 is 1/2 inch below A-1. Draw a line from A-5 to 8.
Make
Square
in
from E.
frojii
Draw
is the collar size 9 inches. a line from D to G and square up
G D
Draw
to locate G-l.
Square up from D.
to F-1 is 11/2 inch.
is
a line from G-l to F-1. half way between D and G.
Square up from H. H to H-1 is 14 inch. H-1 to H-2 is 11/2 inch. Square up from G-l. G-l to G-2 is 21/:. inches. H-2 to H-3 is 21/2 inches.
F-1 to F-2
is 21/2
inches.
Square back to 7 from gives you point 9.

9 to 10
is 1/2
line
A-5 and 8 which
inch.
Shape from G to H-1 and D. Shape from G-l to H-2 and F-1. Shape from G-2 to H-3 and F-2.
Shape from A-5 thru 10 down
to 8.
61
RAGLAN SLEEVE OVERCOAT WITH CONVERTIBLE COLLAR

Breast
40
in.
in. in.
follows:
9i/i.
Scye depth _^
in.
Waist length 17
Full length -_40
in.
in.
I2I4. Blade Overshoulder -ISi/t Strap 121/2
in.
in.
in.
Seat 41.
Collar size 15i/j.
r-2
is
half
a line
way between D and

from D-2
1
D-1.
to
B
C
is
A A D A
to to
to
to
D E is
F
breast plus of an inch. is the scye depth. is the waist length.

'
!(
'}/[.
Draw
to
to locate C-1.
C-1 to C-2
is
inch.
C-2 to C-3
'
is
the blade measure.
6 inches.
the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression.
is
Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1 is breast plus 1 inch up from X. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
!i
1 is
1/h
breast plus
inch in from A.
62
Square up from
C-4 C-5
is is
1 to locate 2.
Draw
a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape as
half
way between
C-1 and C-3.
diagram.
IV2 inch from C-4

to locate
Square up and down from C-5 and F-2.
E-2
Measure from A to 2 and place the amount on A-1 and measure half the collar size
plus 11/2 inch
down
to get point A-3.
is
G-1
1% inches below C-5. is 1% inches below C-3.

a line from
1
A-5 A-6
is 5)j is "'a
of an inch in front of A-1.

of an inch in front of A-5.
Draw
G-2
C-6
is
to G-1.
The
roll is 11
inches
down below
line A-2.
roll to
Draw a
A-6.
line
from the bottom of the
notch.
is
Draw
a line from A-3 back thru A-5 as dia-
gram.
Shape from
to 2.
foi
Measure the width of back from A to 2 and apply this amount plus V2 inch from A-1
back to
lar
A -7.
col-
Apply the strap measure the same as

regular coat.
Drop 114 inch below A-7 and shape the

stand as diagram.
Draw Draw
6
is
a line from A-1 to
to locate 3.
1/2
Draw
inch
a line from 2 thru 3 extending out from 3 to get point 4.

1-16 breast up from G.
a line from A-7 to the crease line at the top of lapel.

collar
Shape
and
lapel as
diagram.
Square out
A-1 to 5
inch.
% of an inch from 6 to locate

to
14.
K
7.
is
V-i
inch below A-1.
Draw
a line from
to G-2.
Shape from 4
is
inch in front of
6.
the same as from 2 to 4 less V2

5.
Square out from line drawn from K to G-2 back to 8, which gives you K-1.
K-2
to A-1.
is
1/2
inch out from K-1.
is 1/2
inch below
Shape from 8
Shape from 8 thru G-2 down. Shape from 7 down.

C-7
is is
K to K-2 and G-2 as diagram. a line from 2 to C-5. Square out from line 2 and C-5 back to which gives you K-3.
Shape from
Draw

3 inches out
is
C-8
from
C-7.
D-1 to D-4
2 inches.
D-4 to D-5 D-5 to D-6
is
is

3 inches.
K-3 to K-4 is 1/2 inch. Shape from 2 to K-4 and C-5 as diagram. The arm scye measure is 22 inches. Measure up 14 the arm scye measure from G and square back to locate X-X. Apply over shoulder measure the same as for
regular coat.
a line from D-6 up thru C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H. H to H-1 is 2 inches. H to H-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from D-6 down thru H-2. of an inch. A-1 to A-2 is 1 8 breast plus Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. E-2 to E-3 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 31/2 inches. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 thru E-4 down. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 thru E-3 down. Make the side seam of back the same length
Draw
Measure the distance from
to
K-2 and
shoulder
down
to
G-2 for the
front
height.
Measure the distance from A-1

front shoulder width.
to 8 for the
Measure from K-2

the
full
to 8
and from 4
to
K-4 for
shoulder width. Measure from 2 to X-X for the back shoulder

height.
Measure from 2
width.
to 4 for the
back shoulder
Measure from X-X down to 6 and from 7 around to G-2 for the under arm scye
length for sleeve. Ihis finishes the draft.
as the side
seam of fore part
to get F-3.
63
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT
The double breasted frock overcoat is cut the same as a double breasted frock undercoat, except that
sizes,
in
it
is
enlarged three
is
this
is :!
way the normal breast

and
the coat
cut 39
measure
l)reast.
The nicasurenients are as

Breast
Wai.st
follows:
in.
39 35
2
in.
in. in.
Scye dei)th 9 I-IG Waist length _17
in.
Waist depression
Full length ___ 4.5 in. Seat 40. Collar size 16.
Blade _ 12 Overshoulder -17% Strap 12'

I
in.
in.
in
{i4
Shape from H-1
to C-11
and down thru D-4
A A A D
E
to
B
C
is i/s is
breast plus
of an inch.
to locate E-3.
to
to to
the scye depth.
Square down from E-3

F-1 to F-2
waist
is 11/2 inch.
is 1/2
to locate F-1.
D is the waist length. E is 2 inches for fashionable

F
is is
E-3 to E-4
inch.
length.
to to
Draw
full length.
6 inches.
A
D
the
a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5.
Square out from C, D, E, F and G.

to
E-4 to G-3
is
D-1
is
is
way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1.
D-2
half
Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square out from G-3.
G-1.
A-1 to 5
inch.
6 is
1/2
is
the same as from 2 to 4 less

5.
1/2
E-1 to E-2
C-1 to C-2
is
i/a
breast.
inch below
Square down from E-2 to locate G-2.

is 11,4
Shape from
6 to A-1. 6
inch.
Shape from
C-12
is
down thru
C-9.
is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
C-2 to C-3
Shape from H-1 down.

C-12 to C-13 is 114 inch. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 114 inch. D-9 to D-10 is 31/2 inches.
to 1 is
i/g
breast plus
1
inch.
Square up from
C-4 is half C-4 to C-5
is 11/2
to locate 2.
C-1.
way between C-3 and

inch.
Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from
C-t)
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending- V2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is 1% of an inch below C-5. C-8 is 1% of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve
notch.
Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4. C-14 to C-15 is 41/2 inches. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-15. A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to
the front.
Measure half the neck size plus 11/4 inch from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get
A-3.
D-10 to F-3
3.
is
4 inches.
is
half
way between C-7 and
Draw
H-1 is of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. Shape from H to C-11 and down
locate D-3.
a line from E-6 to F-3. F-4 is of an inch above F-3.
C-4.
Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. Square down from E-6 to get G-5.
G-5 to G-6
is
1-6 breast plus
inch.
to lC-2 to
Draw
Shape from A to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the waist

inch.
a line from E-6 to G-6. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for flare, this can be more or less for style.
depression
less V2
D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6.
Shape from A-3 to C-13 and D-9 down. A-4 to A-5 is 31/2 inches. Shape from A-5 down. The over shoulder and strap measure are
applied the
same as
for regular coat,
to
also the sleeve.
65
TUXEDO COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR

Breast
follows
in.
in.
in.
36
in. in.
in.
Scye depth __ 81/^ Waist length _17

Full length __30
Blade llVi. Overshoulder -16''4 Strap 111/2
in. in. in.
Seat 37.
66
Shape from 4
to 14 inch in front 6.
i/i.
A A A
D A D
to
to to
B
C
is i/s
is is
breast plus
% of an inch.
Draw
a line from
inch back of 7 to D-4.
Shape from D-4 thru E-1 down.
to
to
D E
F
Shape from 14 inch back of
7 to
D-3 and
is 6 inches.
is
down thru
D-3 to F-2
F.
is
E-3.
the
full length.
the same as from D-4 to F-1.
Square out from C, D,

to
E and
A-1 to 5
inch.
is
the same as from 2 to 4 less V2
D-1
is
is
D-2
half
line
way between D and

from D-2
to
D-1.
is 1/2
inch below
5.
Draw a
to locate C-1.
C-1 to C-2
is ll/i inch.
is
Shape from 8 Shape from 8

D-1 to D-5
is is
to A-1. to
G-2 and down.
C-2 to C-3
the blade measure.
Shape from 7 down.

2 inches.
X A
to
X-1
is 1/8
breast plus 1 inch.
D-5 to D-6
D-6 to D-7

11/2
Draw

i/s
is
inch.
to 1 is
plus
inch.
Square down from D-7 to locate H.
Square up from
1 to locate 2.
Shape from
C-4 C-5
is
to 2.
H H
to
H-1
is
2 inches.
to
H-2
is
2 inches.
half
way between
C-3 and C-1.
is 11/2
inch in from C-4.
Draw a Draw a
C-7
is
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3,

E-1 and F-1.
from F-2 to H-1. line from D-7 thru H-2. one half breast out from
line
is
C-2.
C-7 to C-8
2 inches.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-2. D-3 to D-4 is the same as from D-1 to D-2.
E-1 to E-3
is
Draw
a line
is
from D-7 up thru

Vs breast plus
i/j
C-8.
inch.
A-1 to A-2
the same as from
to E-2 plus
% of an inch.
Draw Draw
C-6
is
Square out from A-2. Shape from A-1 to the

A-1 to A-3
is
front.
a line from D-3 a line
down thru
E-3.
114 inch.
from D-4 down
to E-1.
Draw
A-4
A-1
is is
a line from D-7 up thru A-3.
one half the width of the back from
C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3.
2V2 inches in front of crease line. A-5 is the same as from A to 2 plus
1/2
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an
inch out from 3 to get point
4.
inch.
Square down I14 inch from A-5 to locate A-6. of an inch below A-4. A-7 is
is
Shape from A-6 to A-7 as diagram. Square up from A-5 and shape the
lapel
collar
and
Square down %. of an inch from C-3 to locate

G-1.
down
to D-7.
Draw
G-2
6
a line from G-1 to G. inch above G-1 for front sleeve notch.
Shape from D-7 down. The overshoulder and strap measures are
applied the
is 1
same as
for sack coat, also
is 1-6
breast up from G.
the sleeve.
7.
Square out
of an inch from 6 to locate
67
CUTAWAY FROCK

Breast
38
in.
in. in.
follows:
in. in. in.
Seye depth __ 8i/> Waist length 17

Full length
__38
lH/i. in.
-IG'Vj.
in.
111/2 in.
Seat 39.
68
A A
A D
E
to to
to to
B
C
is
is
is
Vs breast plus the scye depth.
of an inch.
Draw
a line from C-10 to D-5.

to to locate E-5
Shape from C-10
D
E
F
the waist length.

IV2 inch for fashionable waist
6 inches.
down
D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 and E-6.
is
Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4

to locate E-3.
length.
to to
is is
the full length. Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression.
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-1 to E-2 is i/s breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2.
C-1 to C-2 is IV4 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. to X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-4 and G-3 and square
out.
G-3 to G-4 is one half the waist measure or 16 inches. C-2 to C-12 is one half the breast measure.
X
A
to 1 is
Vf!
breast plus
inch.
Square up from
1 to locate 2.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch.
Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5
C-12 to C-13 is 214 inches. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. D-7 to -8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 1% inches. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. Draw a line from G-4 up to D-9. F-3 is 3% inches below D-9. A-1 to A-5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less
inch.
1/2
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. of an inch below C-5. C-7 is of an inch below C-3. C-8 is Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve
is
V2 inch below
5.
% %
notch.
half way between C-7 and 3. of an inch out from H. H-1 is Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and
is
C-4.
C-11
is 1-6
breast in front of C-2.
Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 thru C-9 down. Shape from H-1 down. A-1 to A-2 is Vs breast plus of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1. The bottom of roll is 11 inches down from A-2 line. Draw a line from bottom of roll to A-3. A-4 is 21/1. inches in front of crease line. Shape lapel and front down as diagram. Draw a line from F-3 to E-6.
Shape from
to C-11
and down
to E-2 to
lo-
F-4
is 1/2
inch below F-3.

ap-
cate D-3.
Shape from 1 to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure

inch.
less
1/2
skirt from E-4 to F-4. The over shoulder and strap measure is plied the same as for regular coat. The collar is also drafted the same.
Shape the
D-4
to
D-5
is
i/i-
waist.
69
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK

Breast
:-
38
in.
in.
in.
Scye depth __ Sys Waist length 17

Full length __42
in.
in.
Blade Strap
1134
12
in. in.
'n.
Over shoulder nV->
in.
Seat 39.
Neck
size 15.
70
Square
CLERICAL FROCK

Breast
follows :
in.
in. 'n.
36
in. in.
in.
Scye depth __ 8V2 Waist length 17

Full length __38 Seat 37. Collar size
Blade
II14
in. in.
Over shoulder
Strap
16%
111/2 in-
141/..
E
an
inch.
to to
A to B is Va breast plus of A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length.

-Yi.
A
waist
the full length. Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression.
is
F G
is
6 inches.
to
is
11/2
inch
for
fashionable
length.
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1.
iz
Draw
a line from E-1 to

is
Vfi
to locate C-1.
is
1/2
inch below
5.
E-1 to E-2
breast.
to locate G-2.
Square down from E-2

C-1 to C-2
is 11/4 is
inch.
Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 down thru Shape from H-1 down.
C-12
is
C-9.
C-2 to C-3
the blade measure.

is 11/4
C-12 to C-13
C-13 to C-1 4
inch. inch.
X A
to
X-1
is
Va breast plus 1 inch.
is 11/2
Draw
D-1 to D-7
is
is
2 inches.
to 1 is Vg breast plus 1 inch.

1
D-7 to D-8 D-8 to D-9

C-1.

1V4 inch.
inch.
Square up from
C-4 is C-4 to C-5
is
to locate 2.
is
half way between C-3 and
D-9 to D-10
is 11/2
IV2 inch.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is %. of an inch below C-5. of an inch below C-3. C-8 is
Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-14. A-1 to A-2 is 1/8 breast plus 1/2 inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the
front.
Measure half the collar size plus IVi inch from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get
A-3.
Draw
C-9
is 1
a line from C-7 to C-8. inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve
notch.
C-7 and 3. H-1 is of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. C-11 is 1-6 breast in front of C-2.
is
half
way between
Shape from
to C-11
and down
to
E-2
t.-
hi-
cate D-3.
A-3 to A-4 is 11/4. inch. Shape from A-4 thru C-14 and D-10 down. D-10 to F-3 is 3% inches. Draw a line from E-6 to F-3. F-4 is %. of an inch above F-3. Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. Square down from E-6 to get G-5. G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast. Draw a line from E-6 to G-6. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for flare, this can be more or less for
style.
Shape from 1 to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure

inch.
less Y2
The over shoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for regular coat and
also the sleeve.
D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-0. Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4
to locate E-3.
THE COLLAR.
Measure your neck from A to 2 and from A-1 to A-3 and draft. The neck size is 8I/2 inches.
A A
to
to
B
C
is 8I/2
inches.
is
half the neck size or 414 inches.
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square out from G-3. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2
inch.
Square out from C and down from

cate D.
to lo-
D A D
to to
E
F
is 11/2 inch.
is 11/2
inch. F.
Square
to
in
is
from
the neck size. G Square up l'/. inch from G to get H. to E. Draw a line from
Shape from gram.
to
E and from G
to
as dia-
73
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK FOR STOUT

Breast
44
in.
in.
follows
10
in.
:-
Scye depth Waist length
Blade
131/4 in.
__ 17 in.
Over shoulder
Strap
19%
in.
in.
FuU length Seat 45. Neck
41
in.
131/2 in.
size 16i/>.
74
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1.

F-1 to F-2
is 11/2 is 1/2
A A A
D
E
to
B
C
is Vt!
breast plus
% of an inch.
fashionable
inch.
to
to to
is
the scye depth.

the waist length.
inch
for
E-3 to E-4
inch.
D is E is IV2
length.
Draw
waist
a line from E-4 thru F-2.
to to
F is 6 inches. G is the full length.
Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-1 to E-2 is Vs breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2.
C-1 to C-2 is 11/4 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X.
Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square out from G-3. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2
inch.
is 1/2
inch below
5.
Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 down thru C-9. Shape from H-1 down. C-12 is one half breast out from
C-2.
X
A
to
Draw
X-1 is i/j! breast plus 1 inch. a line from X-1 to A.
Square up from
to 1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch. 1 to locate 2.
C-12 to C-18 is 114 inch. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches less I/4. inch for each inch waist is stout. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 11/4, inch.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 toC-5is 11/2 inch.
Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to
C-2 in front of C-3.
D-9 to D-10 is 21/2 inches. Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4.
C-14 to C-15
is 31/2
inches.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. of an inch below C-5. C-7 is of an inch below C-3. C-8 is Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve
Draw
a line from D-10 up thru C-15. of an inch. A-1 to A-2 is Va breast plus Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the
% %
front.
Measure half the neck size plus ly^, inch from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get
A-3.
notch.
D-10 to F-3
is
334 inches.
C-7 and 3. of an inch out from H. H-1 is Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4.
is
half
way between
Draw
F-4
is
a line from E-6 to F-3. of an inch above F-3.
C-11
is
1-6 breast in
Shape from
to C-11
from C-2. and down
Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. Take out V2 inch V at 20 and 21 as diagram. Square down from E-6 to get G-5.
G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast. Draw a hne from E-6 to G-6. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for flare, this can be more or less for
style.
to E-2 to lo-
cate D-3.
Shape from A to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure

inch.
less V2
D-4 to D-5 is 1/4 waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. Shape from HI to C-11 and down thru D-4
to locate E--3.
Shape from A-3 thru C-13 and D-9 down. A-4 to A-5 is 3 inches. Shape from A-5 down. The over shoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for regular coat,
also the sleeve.
75
FULL DRESS COAT

Breast
follows
81/j
in.
in.
36 32
in. in.
Scye depth
Blade
11 1/4.
16'!
(,
in.
in.
Waist length 17
Full length __39
Over shoulder
Strap
2 in.
in.
111/2
in.
Seat 39
in.
Square down and out from A. A to B is Vn breast plus '% of an inch.
A D
to
D
E
is
to
is
the normal waist length. for fashionable waist 11/2 inch
to
is
the scye depth.
length.
7G
to
is is
6 inches.
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1.

F-1 to F-2
is 11/2 is 1/2
A
D
to
the
full length.
inch.
inch.
Square out from
C, D, E,
F and
G.
E-3 to E-4

is
way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1.
D-2
half
Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down.
G-1.
Draw
a line
from E-4
is
14,
to E-5.
D-6 to D-7
E-4 to G-3
out.
breast.
E-1 to E-2 is i/a breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is 1 H breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
is
Place your square on E-4 and G-3 and square

G-3 to
G-4
is
one half waist.
Draw
Square up from
to 1 is y^ breast plus 1 inch. 1 to locate 2.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch.
a line from G-4 up thru D-7 2 inches to get D-8. C-2 to C-12 is one half the breast measure. C-12 to C-13 is 2% inches. Measure your waist from D-2 to D-3 and
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is 34 of an inch below C-5. C-8 is 3,4 of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve
notch.
from D-4 to D-5 and from D-6 out D-9 half the waist measure. D-9 to D-10 is 11/2 inch. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-13. A-1 to A-2 is i/y breast plus 1/2 inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out
the front.
to
to
A-1 to A-3
is
11/4 inch.
Draw
a line from A-3 to D-10. A-4 is 1''4. inches in front of the crease line. X-X is 1/4 breast plus V2 inch below the fashionable waist length.
C-7 and 3. H-1 is of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2.
is
half
way between
Draw a X-X to
line
from X-X
inch.
to E-6.
is 1
Shape from D-7 down to G-2 as diagram. Take out gore at side body from D-8 down
as diagram.
Shape from
to C-11
and down
to
E-2 to
locate D-3.
Shape from A to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure,

inch.
Shape lapel from A-4 out and down thru D-10 to 0. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2
inch. 6
is
1/2
less V2
inch below
5.
D-4 to D-5
is
14 waist.
Draw
a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-G. Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4
to locate E-3.
from 6 to A-1. from 6 down thru C-9. from H-1 down. over shoulder and strap measure the same as for regular sack coat. Shape the skirt from E-4 to the front.
Shape Shape Shape Apply
77
FULL DRESS CAPE
GOWN
The measurements
40 36 Waist Waist depression 2
are as follows:
in.
in. in.
Breast
in. in.
in.
Scye depth -- 914 Waist length 17

Full length
Blade
Strap
I214
in.
in-
Over shoulder 1814
_36
121/2 in.
Collar size 16 inches.
IE
78
Square out from
5.
to to
B
C
is
Va breast plus 34 of
an
inch.
5 to 6
is
the
same as from D-3

from
6 thru 4.
6.
to D-6.
A
A A D
is
the scye depth.

the waist length.
the full length.
Draw
a line
to to
D
E
is
Square down from

6 to 7
is
is
the same as from 5 to
plus IV2
Square out from C and D.

to
inch.
D-1
is
is
Square back
2 to 8
is
i/fi
li/j
inch from 7 to get 12.
D-2
half
way between D and

from D-2
inch. to
D-1.
breast plus ^^ of an inch.

9.
Draw
a line
to locate C-1.
Square out from 8 to get
C-1 to C-2
is 1
Shape from 9
2 to A-2
is 1/2
to 2
and from
to 2.
C-2 to C-3 C-4

C-5
is
is
the blade measure. C-1 and C-3.
inch.
half
way between
Place the short
arm
of square on points
is 11/2 is
inch in front of C-4.
and A-2 and square out from A-2. A-2

to
C-6
one halt the width of back from C-2 to
A-3
is
the same as from A-2 to E.

to A-3.
C-5 in front of C-3. C-7 C-8

is
Shape from
A-3 to A-4 A-3 to A-5
E
is

3 inches out
10 inches.
is
from
C-7.
is
10 inches.
to A-3.
Square down from C-6 to get D-3.
Shape from 12
A-2 to X-X
is
D-4
is
2 inches in front of D-1.

1-3 breast.
is is
D-4 to D-5 D-5 to D-6
Draw
3 inches.
a line from
X-X
to
A-4 and from X-X
to A-5.
to 1 is
i/a
breast plus
1.
inch.
Square up from
Shape from A-2 thru X-X down as diagram

to
A-4 and A-5.

collar size

A-1 to
Measure half the

is
plus
I14
inch
Vs breast plus 1 inch.
Draw
a line from
line
X
B
to A-1 to locate 2.
from
to
A-2 and around to get X-2.

inches.
to 12.
Draw a
2 to 3
is
from
thru 2 up.
X-2 to X-3
is
1%
the scye depth.

3.
Shape from X-3 down the front
Square out from

3 to 4 2 to 5
is is
Cut the pattern out and take out the amount
the same as from C-6 to C-8.
from A-3
to
A-4 and A-5 up to X-X.
the waist length.
79
p
CD
r > n

Cutting and Measuring Mens Garment

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Cutting and Measuring Mens Garment

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Cutting and Designing

Popular Gentleman Service Company

limited to one thousand complete copies

This copyright volume

for the exclusive use of

POPULAR GENTLEMAN SERVICE COMPANY.

1917 Edition "A"

must always be straight up and down and not

yard stick and square.

in for the waist depression

from the edge of the yard stick

the hollow part of the waist which

2 inches for a normal

man, but can be

No. ^ and Form Stooping Sway to Front

The distance from the yard be more or less.

stick in to the seat

inches, but can

shows the erect form with large

depression and draft the pattern.

drafted add to the

amount you reduced the waist

drafting trousers draft

waist depression measure

HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE

Take the breast and waist measure and

HOW TO ENLARGE MEASURE

of the other measures should be changed

they have been taken

namely: the strap measure, the overshoulder measure or scye

In cutting overcoats take the measures of the vest,

and enlarge the

breast and waist measures 3 inches for regular overcoat, or as

not enlarge the overshoulder, strap measure or scye depth as you

add to the above measures by dropping the arm scye which

followed out closely you will get good results.

VEST FOR A STOUT MAN AS SHOWN ON DIAGRAM

solid black lines lines

show the vest after

The broken The

show the vest before

solid black space

from the side at the point

across to the front

C shows how the

back from the pocket to

and cut the pattern from

Open the pattern from

for each inch stout.

Take out the space between

This finishes the diagram.

DIAGRAM SHOWING NORFOLK OVER REGULAR SACK COAT

located at the front sleeve notch.

Square across from

Cut the pattern thru from

V2 inch for seams.

located at the top of the side

Square across from C to get D.

Open the pattern thru from C

inch for seams.

This forms the front strap.

I-ay a piece of paper

under the pattern and trace