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By Ken Kim Times Wine Writer ver wonder why people make such a great fuss about champagne? Well, this particular wineis connected with a lot of special things. For example, when you hear the word champagne, you probably think of rare delicacies like Russian caviar or perhaps distinguishing events like weddings, birthdays and anniversaries, which have made champagne a fixture of celebrations over the years. Champagne's unique character is another reason why it is considered a "special" wine. One of the first things that comes to mind concerning champagne is the bubbles that burst over when the cork pops. The bubble is the result of an extraordinary production method which is much more complicated than other wines and it helps differentiate it from the other, less ''e.xciting" wines.

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The great popularity champagne currently enjoys, however, thanks in part to the new wine making method that has made champagne more accessible to folks like you and me. Before this method was invented, most folks would not have been able to afford this sparkling wine as it may have remained permanently in Hollywood movie scenes where privileged folks stand around sipping the bubbly. The new method that helped make champagne more economical deals with a process of champagne-making called "riddling." The process is also known as "remuage" and it is designed to cause the sediment (dead yeast cells) to settle in the neck of the bottles which are stored inverted. Champagne requires a second fermentation in the bottle unlike other white wines and the wine maker must deal with this dead yeast in the bottle before the wine can be finished. Many of you have probably heard of this riddling or, most likely have seen it in movies. For those have not, the process involves a per son standing in front of wine rack and turning each and every bottle about three quarters of a degree. An experienced person can turn about 30,000 bottles a day and it is a very labor-intensive process. as you can imagine. But an invention of a machine devoted to rid dling helped speed up the work and cut labor costs. These machines can do about 300,000 bottles per day. Now you know why I thank the new method. The second step in making this wine is called "disgorgement." This operation involves removing collected sediment in the neck of the bottle. In order to do this, the bottle neck is frozen, allowing the sediment to fly out once the bottle cap is open. Opened bottles can then be filled either with more white wine and sugar or brandylike dessert wines to make up the lost portion. It is the wine makers' discretion as to what will be added that produces a stand-out champagne. This process is called "dosage." Once the dosage is done, the bottles are fmally corked. Champagne makers usually use a plastic plug which is wrapped with a wire muzzle

H the sun shines in the autumn as the leaves are beginning to tum, Champagne's gentl~ rolling vineyards look beautiful, but once winter sets in in this northerly region, it can get vecycold.

JULY 23, 1998

rom the Grapevine

rather than a wooden cork. This is very important because a sealed champagne bottle is like a bomb ready to explode due to the high pressure locked in the bottle. We all know that opening a champagne bottle is not easy and, in fact, restaurant employees are specially trained for this tricky business. With an exception of what was said thus far, other processes of producing champagne making are pretty much the same as other wine making procedures. The wine makers must also add more yeast and sugar when the champagne is first bottled so that the bottled wine can begin its second fermentation. The second fermentation usually lasts about three to four months. During this process, wine makers have blending options to make what the industry refers to as "Cuvee?' Deciding what proportion of grapes, from which vineyards and from which vintage year is a very painstaking and highly subjective task and this is why wine making is more of an art rather than a science. The grapes used for champagne are either Chardonnay or Pinot Noir in most cases. In the case of Pinot, the skins of grapes must be peeled prior to the initial fermentation so that the color will stay clear and white. Just as champagne is enjoyed by wine drinkers around the world, it is produced in various regions. In France, for example, champagne is made in Alsace, Burgundy, Loire and Limoux. There are also many different types of sparkling wine characteristic to various areas. Italy, for instance, produces spumante, made from Muscat type grapes. Others are from Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio. The Spanish, meanwhile, make sparkling wines called espumosos. The grapes used for this are Macabeo, Parellada and Xarello. These varietals are grown near the Barcelona region. Germans make sparkling wine too but they import their grapes from France. And, of course, the "new world wine makers" like California and Australia that produce top-class sparkling wines are also added to the list. Now, some tips about drinking champagne with food. Traditionally, champagne goes well with oysters and caviar because they produce great contrasts like rich and crisp or salty and fruity. Grilled fish in a light cream sauce is also a fine champagne accompaniment. Furthermore, lighter foods take well to Chardonnay-based sparklers. Sweet sparklers and desserts go well together too but make sure that the wine is sweeter than the food. The best example would be a light fruit tart with a sweet Italian sparkler like spumante. As for me, I must admit that I have no problem drinking Champagne with anything at all. Champagne in my opinion is the best aperitif because it sharpens the appetite, cleanses the palate and enhances the food about to be devoured and it will go with anything that tempts your appetite.

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