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How to Change the Front Strut Top Bearing and Mounting Block.

Multipla Front Strut Top Bearing and Mounting Block Replacement 110 Elx Jtd 2001 with 128 k mile My nearside front suspension has been gradually getting a bit clunky. The knocking seems to come from the top end of the strut, and I’d already changed the roll bar bushes and the drop links and the shock absorber seemed to be leak free and working ok, so I could only think it could be something at the strut top. I searched this site, but again couldn’t find much info. Am I not doing it properly somehow ? A quick look on ebay brought up the top bearing, so I decided this must be the solution. My local motor factors stocked the bearings but asked if I needed the mounting block too. That sounded distinctly likely, so I bought both. My factors are ery good and happy to refund and take parts back if not needed so I wasn’t being too rash. ! "# for the bearing, ! $% for the mounting block. I didn’t time myself, but it’s pretty easy to do this &ob if you ha e some coil spring compressors, probably about ' ( hours to do one side, the worst bit being compressing and then )uncompressing’ the coil spring. I managed to remember to take photos this time, but it took me a long time to sucessfully up*load them. Most of the time the computer &ust said please wait * uploading images, but nothing happened. It seemed to work e entually when I &ust up*loaded one image at once. +ou will need the following ,* -ooden blocks to position on the chassis bo. sections to spread the load from the a.le stands. Trolley &ack and a.le stands. /oiners type hammer. '0 mm, '1mm, '#mm, '2mm sockets and ring*keys, a (3 ratchet dri e, 4mm and #mm allen keys A small tub of copper slip grease and a tin of -5$%. ' 6o. 7trut top bearing and ' 6o. mounting block. 8oil spring compressors. 8leaning rags and a wire brush. '. 9oosen the front wheel bolts ( a turn or so of the noisy side : in my case the near side. ". /ack up the front ;offending< side of the car and position the a.le stand and wooden spreader block on the chassis bo. sections to take the load. +ou’ll need the &ack to support the hub assembly, so keep access to that area clear. 9ower the body onto the stand and

$. but the ser ice history was complete and by ?iat main dealer. Take care. the strut to the hub. so stop the &oint rotating with either the allen key or a spanner.ings. and the top fi. . 0. &acking the wishbone a little higher remo ed the load from the drop link and this could be disconnected easily too.posed threads. undo the top end of the drop link a couple of turns.ing of the drop link with -5$%. don’t let the strut bottom sit on the dri e shaft outer 8B rubber boot. 6ote that the lower strut bolts )point’ to the rear of the car. but it’s not a problem if you check the brake pad thickness regularly<. 2. 9iberally spray the two bolts which fi. C. 4. My drop links bolts had a #mm allen socket in the end of the thread. &ust in case the a. . I hope it wasn’t deliberate.le stand fails. =emo e all three nuts and then with a little &uggling you’ll be able to tap the main bolts out fairly easily. Maybe use a thick rag in the gap to pre ent contact. @osition the trolley &ack under the wish bone ball &oint and take the weight of the strut. 1. but the pre ious ones had flats ad&acent to the ball &oint. Allow the oil to soak in for a while . 7pray -5 around the brackets and gromits which support the fle. #.ha e a coffee<. and a '1mm socket on the nut.check all is safe. well supported and no )wobbles or leans’.The wear cables on my car had been se ered prior to my buying the car. loosen both bolts a couple of turns. The strut is now &ust hanging free from the top fi. 6earside strut with bolts to remo e soaking in -5$%. and then for me. the A>7 cables and the brake pad warning wires. and with a '#mm ring key on the bolt head. it is delicate and could tear. =emo e the &ack and undo the wheel bolts. then using the wire brush remo e as much mud and rust as you are able from the e. Aradually lowering the &ack then allows the hub assembly to drop clear of the strut. 7pray on more -5$%.i brake hose. =emo e the wheel and use it as an emergency )prop’ under the body.

and I supported the strut with one arm. '$. The strut can then be remo ed from the car by mo ing the bottom end towards the front of the car.Inner wing with three '2mm bolt heads to undo to remo e strut. e entually the nut cracked loose and could be remo ed. easing the brake fle.ing bolts two or three turns.e.i hose under it.actly< opposite sides of the spring and tighten them. alternating e ery few turns until the strut top nut has no load on it and the steel cup washer is loose. 7trut with coil spring compressors in position ready to start tightening. and I had to impro ise with a ring key to gi e me e. then from the wheel arch push and pull on the strut. .'0mm< was ery tight. clear of the wheel arch. En mine the top nut . then pulling it free.tra le erage on the 4mm Allen key to stop the shock absorber shaft from turning. Then comes the boring bit. =emo e the middle bolt completely. ?rom the engine compartment. '%. '". whilst remo ing the remaining bolts with the other : it’s easier with an assistant if you are lucky enough to ha e one D ''. ?it the coil spring compressors on . and on mine with a )crack’ the arm dropped slightly. The top strut assembly could then be tapped free from the top of the coil spring. with a '2mm ring key. '2. gradually loosen all three top fi.

?ully tighten the nut whilst stopping the shaft turning with the Allen key. "%. "2. I coated all the fi. "$. standing the assembly on the floor and pushing down from the top until the '0mm nut with the steel cup washer can be re*fitted to the end of the shock absorber shaft. =efit the support ring. Fold it steady while you get the top three fi. -ith a little pulling and wiggling and finally a screwdri er through the bolt hole. allowing it to slide back onto the strut bottom end and by raising the &ack carefully.ing bolts with copper grease. bearing. '1. so I was confident this was the cause of my noisy suspension. Fow does it stay at the top then ? @resumably &ust friction from the thickening bush on the shock absorber. -aggle the hub assembly into position. but on checking the off*side assembly it &ust seems to )hang free’. then slowly release the compressors a few turns each until they can be remo ed. '4. "'. rubber support ring. I’d already decided I may as well replace the bearing. 8heck that the coil spring is seated in the correct groo e and stops at both bottom and top ends. 7plit the old top mounting. then mo ing the bottom end of the strut from the front side of the hub towards the rear of the car. new mounting block and cup washer in position. top nut ready to tighten. you’ll need the rubber support ring. but on inspection the rubber in the top mounting block had almost completely sheared away from the steel housing. align the hub with the strut hole as accurately .'#.the right way round<. guiding the rubber top bush to the centre of the hole in the wing housing from abo e. 'C. Effer the top of the strut back into position. At this stage I was a bit baffled as to how the dust co er should be fitted. then was ready to refit the strut. carefully ease the brake fle.i hose beneath the bottom of the strut and then push the top end home. '0. "".ing bolts started and working in rotation tighten them with your '2 mm ring key until fully nipped up. the new bearing and the new mounting block . and that you ha e got the top mounting on the right way round. 7pring still compressed.

the A>7 cable and the pad warning light cables back into the strut clips. =efit the road wheel.i hose. >est regards. ?it the nuts and tighten them up. "1. Tighten the wheel bolts to the recommended torque. tighten the bolts &ust hand tight and mo e all your tools from under the car. Fope this is helpful. 7imon My thanks go to the Fiat Forum and its member Simon Denison for the use of this write up… Moriarty .le stand.the right way round< from a hand push or a gently hammer tap. /ack the hub higher until the drop link can be re*fitted to the strut bracket and tighten that nut too. "#. 2%. "4.as you can. with luck the bolt will then slide home . "C. lift the body far enough to remo e the a. =eposition the &ack. "0. 8lip the brake fle. then gradually lower to the floor. =epeat the pushGpull on the hub to align the second bolt holes and fit the second bolt.