Jonathan Gold's 101 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles - 2013 # 101 100 99 98 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 Name Apple Pan Dae Bok

Comme Ca Fab Hot Dogs El Parian Ciros Nickel Diner Kobawoo Bulgarini Gelato Cacao Sapp Coffee Shop Krua Thai Mo-Chica Musso & Frank Rocio's Mole de los Dioses Patina Newport Tan Cang Seafood Mayura Racion 101 Noodle Express Mantee Mariscos Jalisco Border Grill Chichan Itza Meals by Genet Hannosuke Corazon y Miel Attari Golden Deli Sqirl Little Doms Valantino Hunan Mao Grill on the Alley Bierbeisel Gjelina Coni's Seafood Plan Check Address Price 10801 W. Pico Blvd. $ 2010 James M. Wood Blvd., Los Angeles $$ 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood $$$ 19417 Victory Blvd., Reseda $ 1528 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles $ 705 N. Evergreen Drive, East Los Angeles $ 524 S. Main St., Los Angeles $ 698 S. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles $$ 749 E. Altadena Drive, Altadena $ 1576 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock $$ 5183 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles $ 13130 Sherman Way, North Hollywood $ 514 W. 7th St., Los Angeles $$ 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood $$ 8255 Sunland Blvd., Sun Valley $$ 141 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles $$$$ 518 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel $$$ 10406 Venice Blvd., Culver City $$ 119 W. Green St., Pasadena $$$ 1048 E. Valley Blvd., Alhambra $ 10962 Ventura Blvd., Studio City $$ 3040 E. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles $ 1445 4th St., Santa Monica $$ In Mercado la Paloma, 3655 S. Grand Ave., No. C6, $ Los Angeles 1053 S. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles $$ Mitsuwa Market, 3760 S. Centinela Ave., Los Angeles $ 6626 Atlantic Ave., Bell $ 1388 Westwood Blvd., Westwood $ 815 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel $ 720 N. Virgil Ave., No. 4, Los Angeles $ 2128 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz $$ 3115 W. Pico Blvd., Santa Monica $$$$ 8728 Valley Blvd., Rosemead $ 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills $$$ 9669 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills $$$ 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice $$$ 3544 W. Imperial Highway, Inglewood $$ 1800 Sawtelle Blvd., Los Angeles $$

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Langers Cooks County Bludsoes Kang Ho-dong Baekjeong Hungry Cat Matsuhisa Guisados Superba Snack Bar Starry Kitchen Tsujita Tar & Roses Soban Picca Manhattan Beach Post Le Comptoir n/naka Post & Beam The Bazaar Marouch Din Tai Fung Fig The Sycamore Kitchen Hatfields Hart & the Hunter La Casita Mexicana Son of a Gun Angelini Osteria Alma Rustic Canyon Lukshon Kiriko Vincenti Shanghai No. 1 Seafood Village Church and State Drago Centro Sotto Park's BBQ Guelaguetza AOC Salt's Cure Trois Mec

704 S. Alvarado St., Los Angeles 8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles 811 S. Long Beach Blvd., Compton 3465 W. 6th St., Los Angeles 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 2100 E. Cesar Chavez Ave., Boyle Heights 533 Rose Ave., Venice 127 E. 9th St., Los Angeles 2057 Sawtelle Blvd., West Los Angeles 602 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica 4001 W. Olympic Blvd., Koreatown 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach 929 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale 3455 S. Overland Ave., Los Angeles 3767 Santa Rosalia Drive, Los Angeles 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles 4905 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles 1088 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica 143 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles 6703 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles 7950 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles 4030 E. Gage Ave., Bell 8370 W. 3rd. St., Los Angeles 7313 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles 952 S. Broadway, Los Angeles 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City 11301 Olympic Blvd., No. 102, Los Angeles 11930 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood 250 W. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel 1855 Industrial St., No. 100, L.A. 525 S. Flower St., Los Angeles 9575 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles 955 S. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles 3014 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles 8700 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles 7494 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood 716 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles

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Red Medicine Jar Melisse Hinoki and the Bird Bestia Night + Market Sea Harbour Tastng Kitchen Baco Mercat Ink Spice Table Rivera Shunji Jitlada Cut Animal Lucques Kogi Mozza, etc Spago Urasawa Providence

8400 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills 8225 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica 10 W. Century Drive, Century City 2121 E. 7th Place, Los Angeles 9041 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood 3939 Rosemead Blvd., Rosemead 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice 408 S. Main St., downtown L.A. 8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles 114 S. Central Ave., Los Angeles 1050 S. Flower St., Los Angeles 12244 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles 5233 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills 435 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood 12236 Washington Blvd., Los Angeles 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A. 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills 5955 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles

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actually. most of w If you have been to a street-food competition in Los Angeles. Border Grill may be less a restaurant than it is an institution The first time I ate at Chichén Itzá. you're in the right place: The foamy.A. You could have any number of tequila-powered arguments about which restauran The last time I visited the Nickel.com(213) 622-3744 mussoandfrank. and the conflict between regional st You pull up in front of Walt Disney Concert Hall. most decent restaurants specialize in a dish o It's not quite like going to visit the mad scientist in his mountain lair.'s greatest culinary legacies is the California lunchroom burger.com (310) 288-6500 Description One of L.com (626) 300-8654 manteecafe. Austrian-born c It is a cool night.com (323) 560-1776 atarisandwiches.com (323) 938-9304 corazonymiel. may not b If it's 2 in the morning and you're eating noodles in North Hollywood. in the manner you have seen in s When friends stagger back from the San Gabriel Valley mumbling of lobster. and Everybody looks good at the Grill. we often ove A young chef's recipe for success did not used to include opening a tequila bar in If you have ever asked an Iranian American where to have dinner out on the West Is there better pho? Perhaps.com (626) 396-3090 www. and you are out Aficionados of Mexican seafood in Los Angeles have for years been obsessed with Looking for the gearhead version of a modernist hamburger? Check out Ernesto U .com (818) 344-4336 (213) 386-7361 (323) 269-5104 5cdiner. and there have been Twenty-five years on.gjelina. except they call thems We may not have the Coney joints you see on every block in some Detroit neighb The first Counter Intelligence column I ever wrote for The Times was of El Parian.com (310) 450-1429 (310) 672-2339 plancheckbar.A.'s best mole may be a subject for debate. not exactly.com (323) 782-1104 fabhotdogs.com (213) 741-1075 www.com (626) 308-0803 sqirlla. is a living museum of 1920s American cuis L. in a strip mall a block or two north of Culver City's studio district. you probably have a relationship There are nearly a dozen Hunan restaurants in the greater San Gabriel Valley.com (626) 791-6174 cacaodeli. musicians were playing outside on the sidewalk. Little Dom's is what you If you're an old-school gourmand in Los Angeles. so if y Sapp. which features neither regional cooking nor dizzyingly late hours.com (818) 252-6415 patinarestaurant.com (213) 972-3331 newportseafood.com (818) 759-7998 mo-chica. your dreams were probably shaped Why doesn't Los Angeles have brasseries? We do.info (310) 441-5488 goldendelirestaurant.com (323) 467-7788 moleofthegods. chances are If you want a pisco sour. has a fairly open mind on what might go into a taco.mealsbygenet.URL Phone (310) 475-3585 (213) 386-6660 commecarestaurant. which is as elegantly lighted as a George Hurrel Los Angeles hadn't been lacking the flavors of Austria.com (818) 761-6565 (323) 528-6701 bordergrill. and w In the rush to quantify báhn mì specialists and artisanal gastropubs. I booked a flight to the Yucatan almost as soon Fairfax Avenue's Little Ethiopia district has grown denser over the decades. may be We are all becoming comfortable with the idea of San Sebastian as one of the gre Beef roll? Did somebody say beef roll? Because while millenniums of gourmands m Southern California is home to a lot of Lebanese-Armenian restaurants.com (310) 559-9644 racionrestaurant. Pho Thanh Lich in Westminster has better noodles.com (213) 394-6526 littledoms.com (310) 451-1655 chichenitzarestaurant. In Koreatown.com (310) 271-7274 www.com (626) 289-5998 mayura-indian-restaurant. This was a year when the ideas of craft and homespun virtue crashed over the lan When you are a teenager in a land without meatball subs. lips n Mayura.com (323) 478-2791 (323) 665-1035 kruathaica.com (310) 829-4313 (626) 280-0588 (310) 276-0615 bierbeisl-la. it must be said.101noodleexpress. the mu If you have contemplated a meal of blowfish.com (323) 661-0055 valentinosantamonica. but a trip to Cacao. lightly bitter ve Musso's. a novice soon learns. and you have made it past the throng at the bar. if you look at it a certain way.com 213) 623-8301 (213) 389-7300 bulgarinigelato. tart.

com (310) 545-5405 Manhattan Beach.com (310) 478-7769 Of the fine sushi bars in Los Angeles.kr (213) 384-9678 Kang Ho-dong is a former wrestler turned TV personality.com (323) 653-8009 Daniel Mattern and Roxana Jullapat. life for so long that it is easy to forget how special aocwinebar.com (626) 446-8588 If you get six local dumpling aficionados together to talk about the San Gabriel Va figsantamonica.com 213) 244-1422 Nobody has quite put a name on the new modernist school of cooking popping up rusticcanyonwinebar.com (310) 277-0210 Sotto is a different kind of Italian restaurant.com (213) 814-1123 Starry Kitchen is a restaurant enriched with so many levels of meta that it can be tsujita-la. devoted to his craft. star chefs of Sp sonofagunrestaurant. you are p .com (310) 202-6808 It is sometimes difficult to explain Sang Yoon to people from out of town. hatfieldsrestaurant.com (310) 587-0700 I am still waiting for the moment when restaurants begin to feature wood somme sobanusa.co 323) 264-7201 Into the locavore thing? You might want to try the tacos with chiles torreados at t superbasnackbar. on Friday and you are an ambitious foodist in this town.com (323) 662-9325 I sometimes dream of living close to Marouch. who ten kirikosushi. wh troismec.com (310) 277-0133 Peruvian cuisine is one of the most captivating in the world. as you probably know.com (323) 939-0151 The Sycamore Kitchen is the breakfast-lunch project of Quinn and Karen Hatfield.com(213) 380-1717 If you are keeping score at home.com (323) 773-1898 Jaime Martin del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu are the barons of Bell.com (323) 782-9033 If you're a couple of Florida guys and you have a successful meat restaurant. wh casitamex.com (213) 483-8050 "I've always pushed the pastrami. devoted to the outd sottorestaurant. the pu piccaperu. Kiriko is perhaps the least forbidding. and the black velvet of the banquettes is pu churchandstatebistro.com (310) 659-9639 Nobu Matsuhisa is one of the one or two most important chefs ever to come out guisados. close enough anyway to drop in at dintaifungusa. a nominally southern Italian place de parksbbq.langersdeli. "And you wan countyrestaurant. is the muscle behind a fancy new barbecue r baekjeong. like a Korean Kim Karda thehungrycat.com(310) 231-7373 Like Ginza Sushiko in the early 1990s or Rex among Italian restaurants a decade b tarandroses.com/ (323) 424-3055 There exists.com(323) 850-7258 If you want to know whether Salt's Cure is serving the lamb neck with mussels.A. a newish school of cooking we'll call Ampersand Cuisine.com (310) 399-6400 If you were to invent a restaurant whose specialties include a cauliflower T-bone.com (213) 405-1434 Before the downtown Arts District began to resemble an open-air crane showroom dragocentro.com (310) 836-6252 It is almost startling to realize that n/naka may be the first dedicated kaiseki resta postandbeamla.com (213) 427-0608 Guelaguetza been a part of L.lecomptoirla.com (310) 319-3111 If you could design a perfect chef for Los Angeles." the late Al Langer told me once. a place vincentiristorante.com (323) 935-2977 The rush of feverish attention paid to Karen Hatfield's Sycamore Kitchen was surp www.thehartandthehunter.com (323) 299-5599 Food-obsessed Angelenos have watched Govind Armstrong grow up in the city's k thebazaar. the restaurant that did mo (626) 282-1777 The walls are covered with red velvet.com The "secret" restaurant has always been an essential component of the Los Angel n-naka. what angeliniosteria. you can probably divide the history of Koreatow ilovemole. a complex ballet betw eatMBPost. Campanile veterans who most recently were bludsosbbq. starrykitchen. in 2013.com (310) 207-0127 Vincenti was born from the late Mauro Vincenti's Rex.com (323) 936-9106 When you finish describing your latest Koreatown finds to a Korean friend.com (323) 297-0070 Gino Angelini's mega-trattoria RivaBella may be getting most of the attention the alma-la. the Pacific langoustines are running or it nobumatsuhisa.co.com (323) 462-2155 When soft-shell crabs come into season.com (310) 859-9859 Suzanne Goin's wine bar has been an institution for so long that it seems almost o saltscure.com (310) 393-7050 As pure an exponent of urban rustic cooking as there has ever been on the Wests lukshon.com (310) 637-1342 Kevin Bludso.com If it is 7:59 a.com (213) 228-8998 Celestino Drago is an old-fashioned man.com (310) 246-5555 There may not be a restaurant in Los Angeles that divides foodists quite like the B marouchrestaurant. he might seem a lot like Ray Ga thesycamorekitchen.m. perhaps better known for the excellence of its beach volleybal www.

light pan-M kogibbq.com (213) 749-1460 If food writers covered chefs the way that sportswriters cover the Lakers. If you were planning a surprise p thejar.com (323) 460-4170 Why Providence? We are down with pop-ups. Hinoki and the Bird.com (213) 620-1840 The Spice Table. the home of Shunji.com (213) 514-5724 How good is Bestia? It is a restaurant that makes beef-heart tartare seem not only nightmarketla. but her smart. to heavy tablecloths. is slated to close sometime this year.com (323) 655-6566 Suzanne Tracht is one of the most versatile chefs in Los Angeles.com (323) 297-0101 There used to be a guest book at Pizzeria Mozza in which customers were invited www.com (323) 651-5866 Do you want to see excessive concentration? I mean hand-wringing.com (310) 392-6644 A few years on. a kind of flatbread sandwich halfway mvink. I think we can finally dismiss the rumor that The Tasting Kitchen w bacomercat. one hears.com/restaurants/fine-dining/3635 (310) 385-0880 The first responsibility of any great restaurant is to keep you in the bubble.com I don't care if you were born here: You're not an Angeleno if you haven't headed t pizzeriamozza.com(310) 826-4737 Even by local standards. the so (310) 247-8939 You will pay more than a thousand dollars for dinner for two. sometimes way mor www. the lux BestiaLA.com (323) 655-6277 There may be more influential chefs than Suzanne Goin.com (323) 782-9225 Animal roared into existence as what seemed like a practical joke: a pig-fixated re www.com. a Depression-era building in the shap jitladala. adept at both the www. fearsome yet delici (626) 288-3939 Although Hunan and Shanghai and Dongbei dining rooms have been flourishing in thetastingkitchen. evicted to make riverarestaurant.wolfgangpuck.com (323) 663-3104 Into pain? Jitlada.melisse. John Se shunji-ns.com (310) 275-9724 Rotgut Mekong whisky. and with food trucks and with chef . (213) 687-8808 A Bäco is Josef Centeno's signature creation. in a way. hinokiandthebird. micro-focuse thespicetable.lucques.wordpress. stinky natural Gamays from the Loire.com (310) 395-0881 Los Angeles has not been kind to formal French restaurants.com (310) 276-8500 Where would you take a Chinese billionaire just passing through town? I submit th animalrestaurant.redmedicinela. marks the triumph of the Los Angeles way of dining: a wolfgangpuck.com (323) 651-5500 I don't think I'd let Red Medicine babysit my kids.com (310) 552-1200 David Myers' cooking at Sona was ethereal — dreamy.providencela.

the Caesar sala t exactly. followe ster has better noodles. In Japan. may be the last place in Los Angeles you would expect to find a restaurant specializing in the cooking of Kera bastian as one of the great food cities of the world. the photogenic face of 1980s Mexican cuisine sustained into another age.: the giant burritos at El Tepeyac or the bean-a outside on the sidewalk. grilled lamb kidneys and Wednesday sauerb nflict between regional styles will never be resolved. a over the decades. chances are pretty good that you have washed up at Krua Thai. the multi-layered composition of iceberg lettuce. balsamic vinegar or radicc er San Gabriel Valley. and the best of them. the ronin chef long associated with the Mariscos Chente c ger? Check out Ernesto Uchimura's model. rtue crashed over the land like a sticky wave of artisanally gathered honey. all banjo. Sergio Peñuelas. It's a lon e dinner out on the Westwood Tehrangeles strip. and you are out on the patio at Gjelina. Austrian-born chef Wolfgang Puck always kept the odd kaiserschmarrn or bone-marrow soup on the menu at Spago the bar. another for pork belly and a third for barbecued duck.nchroom burger. homemade American cheese scented . Everybody eats well there too — the steaks are good. and the broth at Pho Filet in South El Monte has more flavor. the old-school incense-scented or full-on party cuisine. except they call themselves gastropubs and serve kale salad and pan-roasted Brussels sprouts instead of giant crocks of cho k in some Detroit neighborhoods. Ko ountain lair. and pop heroes began to include micro-distillers an s. You go to one place for grilled clams. Because if the Yucatecan cooking was this good at this restaurant stall in La Paloma. Ricardo Zarate is a chef's chef. Little Dom's is what you think Italian restaurants are going to be like when you grow up: faded dark-wood places with slouch bably have a relationship with Valentino. and there have been quite a few over the last few years. lightly bitter version of the Peruvian national cocktail flows like water. but a trip to Bulgarini. fattoush salad and other classics of the Middle Eastern t eles. neatly arranged an ms were probably shaped by the popular conception of fugu. the notorious fish of death. tend to specialize in the funkier side of the cuisine: the steamed ghted as a George Hurrell print. short on amenities but frequented by customers who kno opening a tequila bar in Bell. pickle shavings. You walk into the intimate whale-ribbed dining room carved out of the Fran umbling of lobster. slap bass and tight bluegrass harmonies. including this one. you have witnessed the coronation of the Mariscos Jalisco truck nt than it is an institution. A lot of Mexican chefs ma e Yucatan almost as soon as I got home. nor the concentration of street vendors you see in e Times was of El Parian. jellied consommé. may not be the sexiest restaurant in Thai Town. she will probably mumble the name of one kebab house or another. layered with ketchup leather.A. You will find neither wild boar nor sataw beans. crab Louie. most of which serve satisfying versions of raw kibbeh. tart. a smallish Spanish metropolis with a freakish concentration of Europe's be lenniums of gourmands may consider Shandong to be the heartland of Chinese haute cuisine. chicken and pork al pasto ngly late hours. we often overlook the Japanese supermarket food court. but there is no doubt that Rocio Camacho makes more kinds of mole than anner you have seen in so many car commercials. not far from the fire pit. so if you're one of those guys who feels options should be limited to carne asada. Are there better spring rolls? Doubtful. and whether your taste runs toward the vegan. so you will find m of 1920s American cuisine: the avocado cocktails. they have almost certainly just come from this conve y's studio district. the martinis are perfect. a working-class suburb famous chiefly for the corruption of some of its elected officials. where the smoothies are banging. fugu chefs are specially certi y. lips numb with chile and their hearts filled with glee. where I was contempla ants specialize in a dish or two. cassia buds no h Hollywood. the number of stands you see in Chicago. a lunch hall just west of downtown famous for its Guadalajara-style birria: roasted kid hacked into ch nts about which restaurant and which dishes best represent old-school East L. pickles and slightly underripe tomatoes. nearly everybody at 101 Noodle an restaurants. From inside the restaurant. contemplating the wonder of a crisp little pizza with ears been obsessed with the peregrinations of Mr. it ha astropubs. on an Altadena hill so steep that Henry Ford once used it to test the engines of his new cars ght go into a taco. which was the first restaurant here to serve white truffles. the Barbie-box amy.

the restaurant she runs with her chef husband. The chairs are overstuffed. Because Hatfield's. to his ow s foodists quite like the Bazaar. vaguely ironic take on traditional cooking often featured at restaurants that ns of Bell. which is to say a whimsical. Quinn Hatfield. is l Ampersand Cuisine. which is to say ultrahot chiles grown in Armando De La Torre's backyard. crowded hotel restaurant that is the local vanguard of modernist cuisine. you will get six different opinions about where to go for the best Shanghai-style soup dumplings. Jon Shook and V most of the attention these days. a spinoff of a revered Tokyo ramen restaurant. star chefs of Spanish-language media who map the produce of local community farms onto dishes from their native ul meat restaurant. an Eastside guy who seems to spend almost as much time proselytizing for healthful eating in loc uinn and Karen Hatfield. Since docks in Hollywood are hard to come by. For the first mponent of the Los Angeles dining scene. and the late La Terza probably displayed his artistry to more obvious effect. The chandeliers are blinding. an open-ended shoe box of a restauran ls of meta that it can be hard to keep straight without a scorecard. the barbecued meat palaces and the grills speci rld. Kang Ho-dong Baekjeong is the local branch of a restaurant chain he runs on the sid oustines are running or it is time to strap on the bibs and dive into a dozen oysters or a pile of Maryland blues. Tsujita. a complex ballet between seafood from the chilly Humboldt Current and the produce of the high plains. you probably couldn't do any better than Superba Snack Bar. Some people ugh anyway to drop in at noon for grilled quail and a beer and midafternoons for a Lebanese sweet and a thimble of thick Turk about the San Gabriel Valley. many-coursed seasonal meals. dudes who come around to your table and explain the provenance of that day's fruitwood or hi o a Korean friend. before the influx of bars and fancy coffeehouses. a kind of cooking that incorporates inten ever been on the Westside. a vast. the pubs hidden away behind unmarked apartment courts.m. like a Korean Kim Kardashian in a singlet. If you want to b open-air crane showroom. from his beginnings as a teenage apprentice at Spago to a run with Benjamin Ford. not only combining izakaya cooking and Peruvian flavors into a style that inspired che with chiles torreados at this Boyle Heights taquería. and a shrine to the awesom e the history of Koreatown barbecue into the era before Park's and the decade or so since Park's opened its doors. is so far ahead of its competition th to feature wood sommeliers. a place where you know you can get perfect shirako or sea snail in season but still treats mackerel with grea e restaurant that did more than any other to introduce Los Angeles to Italian alta cocina. Church and State was a loud artists' bistro. which is to say it is the sandwich-shop offshoot of a restaurant with a Michelin star. devoted to the outdoors and devoted to his family. which takes you to st in this town. worrying whether it is set to precisely the right time. It was founded as an occasional pop-up in chef Thi Tran an n restaurants a decade before that. you go over to its Twitter feed and click on the newest link." But even after the great deli man's who most recently were in charge of the kitchen at Ammo. you are probably at your computer. between pre-Colu nce of its beach volleyball than for that of its kitchens. sha . the Hungry Cat. "And you want to know why? Because it costs me a little less than corned beef.d me once. t chefs ever to come out of Los Angeles. each member of which seems to be running a restaurant somewhere southern Italian place dedicated to local produce and sustainable and artisanally produced meat. absin craft. at least the first outside the Ja ng grow up in the city's kitchens. has quietly become the restaurant center of the South Bay. ht seem a lot like Ray Garcia. who tend to see the chef as a guy who runs a successful burger bar. always. what you're looking for is probably a boat. serving expensive. s de a cauliflower T-bone. There has a asy to forget how special it is: a serious Oaxacan restaurant serving impeccable pre-Columbian cuisine in the heart of Koreatow ng that it seems almost odd to drop into its new grown-up location with its big patio. like running into a high school crush who mb neck with mussels. in a way. which it should. Its first chef was Gino Angelini of the et of the banquettes is punctuated with rhinestones. the wine bar Rustic Canyon more or less functioned as a restaurant arm of the Santa Monica farm om out of town. "But there is bacon marmalade. And it turns out t camore Kitchen was surprising. but Hollywood ha ool of cooking popping up at places like Noma in Copenhagen or Coi in San Francisco." you tell e least forbidding. operate in the tradition of Los Angeles pan-Mediterranean cookin d a fancy new barbecue restaurant up on North La Brea Avenue that also serves craft beers and the kind of cocktails fancied by . Because at 8 a. and if you ever managed to make it into the unmarked steakhouse on Fairfax Avenue st dedicated kaiseki restaurant in Los Angeles.

fearsome yet delicious nam prik. Kobe-on-the-bench concentration? Then you should probably get a kitchen-view seat at Ink. is mor art tartare seem not only possible but desirable. the soft-serve cocoon of illusion where you forget the world exists for anything but your pleasure. a pop-up slated to disappear after 100 or 200 or tbread sandwich halfway between a Catalan coca and a taco pumped up on 'roids. evicted to make way for a Metro station. to heavy tablecloths. they'd blab to the honoree. is as precisely aligned ical joke: a pig-fixated restaurant on a kosher-intensive stretch of Fairfax Avenue. to kitchens that work as if Michelin stars are at stake. and nts. one of the original Ma Angeles way of dining: a popular Thai restaurant frequented mostly by non-Thais who come not in spite of the difficult. If you're splashing three bills on dinner here. fueled by a rush of immigration from China's north. John Sedlar would be in the paper as often as Pau Gasol — planting a roof garden. And the two. We like great bar snacks. We realize the . as you might expect. slicked with a goopy. micro-focused. light pan-Mediterranean cooking with occasional hints of North Africa has become the lingua franca of a certain o if you haven't headed to a deserted parking lot late at night. and your experience will be directed with a severity of which o ood trucks and with chefs who shock the world with their inside-out hard-boiled eggs. where his year. collaborating with Baja che n-era building in the shape of a chili bowl. the luxe Century City restaurant he runs with chef Kuniko Yagi in a Bond-villain skyscraper basement. And although the restaurant is certain to endure in some form — Bryant Ng cover the Lakers. adept at both the urban rustic style of cooking that is still packing them in at places like Bestia and Rustic Canyon. Most of the comments. that grills Med oire. vaguely Mediterranea d-wringing. pounded salads from the area around Chiang Mai: Night + Market is the most unlikely o s have been flourishing in the San Gabriel Valley recently. that makes a craveable specialty of pork boiled with cabbage. is unusual for a sushi bar. yo noki and the Bird. a center of dude-friendly. ambitious Hong hat The Tasting Kitchen was essentially Casey Lane's performance art project. were pretty posit you in the bubble. The restaurant. As they have shown with their Internet vendettas toward both no-s Angeles. pulled a cold drink out of a paper bag on the floor of your ride a customers were invited to leave comments about their meals. designed by superstar architect Richard Meier. insane hrough town? I submit the answer is Cut.were planning a surprise party. But what is served by Shunji Nakao. maximally caloric but her smart. sometimes way more if you have expensive tastes in sake.

the steak tartare. Brandon Boudet. I could only imagine how delicious it might be in th d or full-on party cuisine. You've never been to a shop quite like Bulgarini. It is the Beverly Hills version of Muss w soup on the menu at Spago. which is presented dneys and Wednesday sauerbraten that William Faulkner and Charlie Chaplin used to enjoy. which wins these things so frequently that it should probably just accept a lifetime achievemen ge. Ración. They make carnitas out of duck. a community-run marketplace just east of USC. A lot of Mexican chefs make their own tortillas. balsamic vinegar or radicchio. a region on south India's Spice Coast. so you will find artfully deconstructed versions of Peruvian dishes like papas a la Huancaina. Sauerkraut has never done well here in the land of Meyer lemons and year-round aspar n of street vendors you see in New York. the restaurant probably isn't for you. the first to fetishize great olive oil. But Mantee. And if you are a strict empiricist. but Los Angeles really is a hot dog town. The thick wine nly just come from this converted Marie Callender's. But for decades now. the fermented vegetables and the oily. although the ones at Brodard in Garden Grove are pretty good.tomatoes. You may have worked your way through a few vegetables — there a ed with the Mariscos Chente chain. Sapp has been perhaps the most dependable lunchroom in H es are banging. a polished. But Golden Deli has been the def n to include micro-distillers and baconistas as well as actors and banjo players. run by Bo arly everybody at 101 Noodle Express dives past the pumpkin-shrimp dumplings. When the waitre os at El Tepeyac or the bean-and-cheese at Al and Bea's. it was impossible to tell whether the third for barbecued duck. we find ourselves retur uented by customers who know how Japanese food is supposed to taste. where I was contemplating a plate of pulled-pork hash and a mug of black coffee. compile encyclopedic tequila lists. the Caesar salad. presumably after they had lubrica akes more kinds of mole than anybody else in town — not just the seven traditional moles of Oaxaca or moles from Puebla or g room carved out of the Frank Gehry structure and are led to an ironed white tablecloth set with heavy silver. followed by a plea to come eat at her mother's house instead. D ia: roasted kid hacked into chunks and served in a strong consommé that tasted like amplified pan drippings. the simmered organs. fearsomely ho is are perfect. which is run by Jonathan Darakjian. But lunch? That's easy. Exquisitely orchestrated fugu meals often last hours. Even if you have eaten in other local southern Indian re concentration of Europe's best restaurants and bars that are the answer to a tapas-lover's sweatiest dream. the hand-torn noodles and the famous Dezh assics of the Middle Eastern table. Kobawoo. tucked into a bun sprinkl . the first as devoted to ancient Italian vintages as the Le a de of the cuisine: the steamed and smoked meats. back when he was the first sommelier at Campa nder of a crisp little pizza with shaved asparagus and egg. serve sustainable seafood and shop at t estaurant stall in La Paloma. slippery pad kee mao have enough of a s a chef's chef. destination restaurant in the inevitable mini-mall. where even strong men are defeated by the parade of sautéed pea shoot ializing in the cooking of Kerala. the grilled meat at La Parrilla or the tamales and carnitas at Los 5 Punt aurant. and expensive. and a microscopically thin layer of fried cheese. neatly spl r sataw beans. supposedly made with seafood a member ade American cheese scented with kombu seaweed. The Korean conception instead of giant crocks of choucroûte. it has never been easier to find a decent Ethiopian meal. neatly arranged and slicked with a sweet. The leafy patio of better spring rolls? Doubtful. chicken and pork al pastor. The thin. for one thing. and Austrian-born winemaker Manfred Krankl. the sauce-brushed f its elected officials. The restaurants always had great shrimp dishes. dominated by ada. Making great preserves from superb California dark-wood places with slouchy booths and dim lighting and frosty highballs near to hand. fugu chefs are specially certified. can sometimes feel pretty close. a chef whose family owns one of the best n of the Mariscos Jalisco truck. and the corned-beef hash are sublime. who also runs Dom les. the Barbie-box-pink yen ta fo noodles are properly stinky and the wide. thick dressing on a lightly toasted bun. is a great place to go for cr st the engines of his new cars. Look at the enormous lines outside Pink's. slightly charred beef pat . It's a long haul from the Westside for a fizzy shot of Ron Bull and a plate of roasted chicken hearts with h bab house or another. cassia buds nor crispy pork. But year after year.

sharp. in a neighborhood where the fixed-g nal pop-up in chef Thi Tran and co-owner Nguyen Tran's North Hollywood apartment courtyard before moving to a converted f ar ahead of its competition that the others may as well not exist. and that the sheer level of cooking in this modest bungalow eclip with Benjamin Ford. but Hollywood has always loved his osteria the most of all his restaurants. he delighted the judges by se Michelin star. Suzanne Goin and David Lentz's oddly shaped seafood restaurant. Estephe. to his own low-key dining room at Table 8. Because at 8 a. European technique and mostly Asian cooks. sautéed until they practically melt from the heat. But you might as well tool down to Compton when the urge for barbecue urant chain he runs on the side. that the gifted chef is expressing et and a thimble of thick Turkish coffee. fish and kuro e of that day's fruitwood or hickory. muhamma hanghai-style soup dumplings. Some people think the restaurant represents the pinnacle of José Andrés' art. and a shrine to the awesome heat of its 15. The broth is a complex composition of chicken. Quinn Hatfield. a restaurant where you knew that the Persian mulberries or fat Delta asparagus you is bacon marmalade. is one of the quietest successes in Hollywood. absinthe on tap. the techniques of so-called molecular gastronomy and a sense of culinary narrativ arm of the Santa Monica farmers market.even after the great deli man's demise. that happened to attract a pretty d nning a restaurant somewhere in Los Angeles. Its proprietor is Vincenti's widow." you tell them. "and he won't allow ketchup. a place with peel vious effect. One dude may plump for the XLB at Dean Sin World. And looked at a certain way. th onto dishes from their native Jalisco and Michoacan. An steakhouse on Fairfax Avenue. but the modernist Park's may have been the first p uisine in the heart of Koreatown. sometimes called urban rustic cuisine. served in a fresh tortilla made from nixtamal gr nded shoe box of a restaurant at the heart of Venice's new Rose Avenue restaurant row. Three generations of Angelenos have grown up on his handmade pasta and his r t. Maybe they could be identified by little hatchets hanging from their necks. Ordering the same old bacon-wrapped dates feels a bit aw west link. Have you ever found transcendence in a plate of chilaquiles? This is a goo d to come by. its chef. which takes you to its Facebook page and a picture of the current blackboard menu posted on the restaurant's wall. Nicola Mastronardi. So a turkey sandwich becom f husband. 1 Seafood is less a Shanghai-style restaurant than it is an actua as a loud artists' bistro. the fabulous robata hidden inside a Westside teriyaki house or the loft space housing Wolvesm at least the first outside the Japanese expatriate community. and if you don't get thro . another may prefer the swe zing for healthful eating in local schools as he does in the kitchen. is probably the first place to t into a style that inspired chefs all around the world but also redesigning the modern restaurant kitchen as a system running t ando De La Torre's backyard. she will always come back with the dinner she ate at her mother's high plains. One can only imagine the of the South Bay. And it turns out that obsessive perfectionism can work pretty well in informal cafes. a concrete bunker of tabletop grills fitted into the Art Deco Chapman Market night life comple aryland blues. Trois Mec releases its tables for the week.m. And he started the disclaimer 'Changes and modifications p still treats mackerel with great respect. the institution he founded continues to serve the best pastrami sandwiches in America es pan-Mediterranean cooking. And if that day at palaces and the grills specializing in exotic invertebrates.000-pound oven. although the occasional sharp North African edge seem he kind of cocktails fancied by mustachioed dandies. between pre-Columbian culinary traditions. At a local hog-cooking contest. the Hungry Cat. is a master of the are blinding. a fancy place better known for the soup shots at its b n featured at restaurants that name themselves after children's stories either real or imagined. a mezcal selection with distillates you rarely see this side of the border and a center of Oaxac g into a high school crush who has become a renowned oncologist. a place whose comfortable versions of oking that incorporates intense locavorism. Westsiders are heading south just to eat. close enough that I didn't feel the compulsion to buzz through the mtabal. You can get the hot. ht time. where you can find all the shiso pesto and sauteed monkfish liver you care to eat but s chef was Gino Angelini of the famous osteria. For the first time perhaps since the 1980s heyday of St. So his fresh take on African American dishes at Post & Beam is dernist cuisine. and not a second sooner. fresh bread with headcheese or puréed lar opened its doors. strings of Christmas lights hanging all year round. If you want to be accurate about it. There has always been decent Korean barbecue in town. Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo apparently settled for a fish restaurant you might tie a boat up to. xiao long bao. Shanghai No.

Whatever Jon Shook and Vin e the lingua franca of a certain kind of California cafe.et vendettas toward both no-shows and my estimable colleague. one of the original Matsuhisa chefs and founder of Asanebo. complaining that the pizza wasn't g but your pleasure. and at Asian-accented new American cuisine. ritualized Japanese kaiseki cuisine with modern California small with cabbage. from which you will soon purchase Korean shor ight expect. serves it with a heap of boiled rapini and otherwise leaves it alone. spicy fava bean fritters. whic n skyscraper basement. were pretty positive. ambitious Hong Kong-style seafood palaces. usually written in Italian. And the newly redesigned Spago. starting a tamale museum. a fusion of complex. you're probably not going for sushi. every re in some form — Bryant Ng's highly spiced grill cooking. When it opened. bottling h Nakao. So it is almost odd to find her at what she is now callin g three bills on dinner here. "Sunday Suppers at Lucques. inspired by Singapore's satay masters. insanely spicy regional dishes but because of them.'s great Thai restaurants. The sashimi is presented on a kind of carved-ice stage and glow eat bar snacks. is more muscular. A roaring Market is the most unlikely of L. collaborating with Baja chefs. and you see copies of her book. We realize the difficulties inherent in operating a Los Angeles restaurant as if it were in Seoul or Wuxi. and we . vaguely Mediterranean sauce and stuffed with things like fried veal tongue. is both vital and popular — it en. the rules of restaurant decorum don't seem to bother them m Bestia and Rustic Canyon. closing one restaurant. taking a stab at Chinas Comidas. is pretty unusual for a sushi bar too —perhaps a fat. but there were more than a few. is as precisely aligned as a linear accelerator. I'm sure that the chicken d Meier. endorphin bombs and all. slice in spite of the difficult. So it is almost by force of will that Josiah Citrin's Mélisse. or a combination o itchen-view seat at Ink. often thought to be the pinnacle of the Chinese restaurant experien disappear after 100 or 200 or 420 days. it seemed odd that a restaurant like that would make plain bread an goopy. maximally caloric munchies in an area known for skate shops and comic book stores.A. that grills Mediterranean sea bass. a specialist in northern Thai street food in the nightclub district of hina's north. where Michael Voltaggio agonizes over every gram of sea-bean chimichurri on the beef tartare. from the moment you toss your keys to the valet to the moment you st ted with a severity of which other sushi chefs can only dream. and the Tom Cruise-looking guy three tables over is probably Tom Cruise de-friendly." in a surpr bag on the floor of your ride and waited for the appearance of the Kogi truck.

she didn't ask you what dish you wanted. What you tast . but versions based on almonds or hibiscus blossoms. on the other hand. crunchy salt-and-pepper squid and then the gargantuan house-special lobster. introduced the city to the strange and glorious world of Austrian wines. es and the oily.m. The food in Mérida turned out to be great. mpossible to tell whether the band was Mumford & Sons or a band that sounded like Mumford & Sons. more valuable for its crunch and it savory hours. brings a different kind of edge to the cuisine. But still. But Eduardo Ruiz. etern serves from superb California fruit is not a new idea. with clove-scented roast duck noodles. Dog Haus or the vendors who materialize outside nightclubs at 2 a. five other local southern Indian restaurants. may seem to lack th roasted chicken hearts with honey. but Jessica Koslow. which is presented as a bacon-wrapped terrine of neat potato slices lightly drizzled with the traditional sauce of che umably after they had lubricated their insides with gin. Pad Thai may be a dish a lot of us g uancaina. the sauce-brushed tempura on the tendon. and there may be duck conf made with seafood a member of the family brought herself from Mazatlan a couple of times a week. rice bowl with tempura. it always comes down to the iron-barred. basically the only dish here. fried tacos with ainable seafood and shop at the farmers market now. flaky Chinese pancakes with cilan family owns one of the best Armenian restaurants in Beirut. is very good at it. Raul Ortega and his signature tacos dorados de camaron. a lot of the food may be new to you: saucer-shaped rice-flour saucers called appam. whether they were sp all. is no Arzak. The leafy patio of Attari is a bit of pre-revolutionary Tehran cafe society transplanted into a sleepy office courtyard Golden Deli has been the default Vietnamese noodle shop in the San Gabriel Valley for more than 30 years.A. is as the centerpiece of a pleasant evening of alcohol and conve lemons and year-round asparagus. game hen stuffed with ginseng and sticky rice. and pig's feet pressed into e like Bulgarini. the first sommelier at Campanile. tamarind or coffee. But for me. neatly splitting the difference between the classic Mexican preparation and French duck confit. perhaps. stars instead of character actors. a tiest dream. so the flaky pastry accept a lifetime achievement award and hang it up. and somet st dependable lunchroom in Hollywood. cheery on the drizzliest day. steroidal composition of crisp. the waiters are likely the same ones who xaca or moles from Puebla or the Distrito Federal. Ración. fearsomely hot dishes that make Hunan a paradise of peasant cuisine. dominated by a massive old espresso machine and decorated with obscure homages to the AS Roma soccer te duck. The thick wine list is rich in hidden treasures if you are willing to consider Corbières or Slovenian Pinot Gris inste e parade of sautéed pea shoots with garlic. Joe n drippings. for one thing. great Isaan-style g ad kee mao have enough of a fresh-chile sting to help you forget the earlier evening woes. but it is a nice place to drop in for noodles and the famous Dezhou chicken right to that brawny. a on Boudet. Even Austrian-born h a few vegetables — there are a lot of vegetables here — roasted beets with their tops. n year. but Peñuelas is a master ese. The house-smoked Hunan ham has the Beverly Hills version of Musso & Frank. featuring the d how delicious it might be in the place of its birth. stop by Fab's. The Korean conception of blowfish. who comes from the head-to-tail wonderland of Animal up on Fairfax Av That's easy. she asked you whether you ales and carnitas at Los 5 Puntos.thin. is a great place to go for crisp seafood pancakes. When the waitress came to take your order. of course. Comme Ça is more or less a brasserie in the classic sense. is a master at taking the unloveliest aspects of Italian American food an ent Italian vintages as the Le and La places were with Bordeaux. with show business moguls instead of set designers. a softly lighted dining room whose gentle beef tibs. split-level dining room of this East L. te h heavy silver. Or better. with plateaux of chilled ormous lines outside Pink's. If you grew up in Hollywood. we find ourselves returning to Genet Agonafer's bistro. tucked into a bun sprinkled with white specks that look like sesame seeds but crunch like breakfast cereal. who also runs Dominick's and Tom Bergin's. her crisp-ski mpiricist. a cramped. slightly charred beef patty becomes basically another texture in this sandwich. run by Border Grill vets Loretta Peng and Teresa Montano. (I will never forget my first taste of Quintarelli Amarone here. a former world-class figure skater. The most exciting Mexican cooking here now is regional. But so is Chichén Itzá.

of the flavors of salt. One can only imagine the possibilities inherent in the choice among 50 kinds of potatoes. another may prefer the sweetish Wuxi-style dumplings at Wang Xing Ji. The rye bread. where the fragrance of hardwood charcoal in the border and a center of Oaxacan dance where a show comes along with dinner. But the restaurant seems almost settled as a semi-permanent eve ition of chicken. cl in this modest bungalow eclipses what you find in grand dining rooms whose chefs appear in national magazines. The great specialty of the re Mastronardi. best known for his long term at downtow e loft space housing Wolvesmouth. he delighted the judges by serving pozole. Roman tripe and his grandmothe nd a sense of culinary narrative that doesn't end when the plate is put down in front of you. The old-school guy always brings up Mama Lu's. The chef is N ican dishes at Post & Beam is new yet utterly familiar: smoked baby backs. of roast porchetta and cuttlefish salad. you will probably see it first at Andrew Kirschner's small-plates restaurant Tar & Ro inner she ate at her mother's house last week — or. But then you settle in with a bowl of wood-oven clams with green garlic and a glass of San sted on the restaurant's wall. the restaurant dinner she begrudgingly admits tasted a lot li oks. Ricardo Zarate. fish and kurobuta pork. because the brisket that issues from the battered steel smokers behind Bludso's origina man Market night life complex. yellow or red mole. do harp North African edge seems all their own. shrimp sandwiches on white bread and even smoked steelh hose comfortable versions of pan-Italian trattoria classics like saltimbocca. And if that day ever comes. with thick slices of nicely brined bird layered on dense h own for the soup shots at its bar and for stuffing yellowtail into its croque madame than for its exquisitely seasonal vegetarian nd looked at a certain way. the diaphanous noodles — order them cooked hard — act more as texture than as su m their necks. And this sprawling restaurant overseen by David LeFevre. roast salmon. his handmade pasta and his risottos. pollo alla diavola. you know. dressing with headcheese or puréed lardo instead of olive oil. could be the restaurant te of chilaquiles? This is a good place to try. and if you don't get through within a minute or so. Guisados. Jason Neroni's style is what you might call abstracted Italian efore moving to a converted fast-food place in a food court. La Casita is especially worth visiting during Lent and in the season leading up to Ch boat up to. a Peruvian chef e heading south just to eat. He has a forager on h So a turkey sandwich becomes almost more than a turkey sandwich. Hungry for green. tamales and a pig-infused version of Mexican squeeze candy." but they have already drifted off. and . that just happens to have appened to attract a pretty distinguished series of French-trained chefs. air breads and deconstructed Spanish hrough the mtabal. It is what art critics used to call low-tech futurism. Mattern's cooking incorporates not just the seasons but also the microseasons of n when the urge for barbecue strikes. is a master of the big. smoked fish spread. specializing in tacos de g ghborhood where the fixed-gear bicycles outnumber the Priuses. hardwood-burning ovens. Because the first rule of the kitchen seems to be: Don't mess too much with the fish. barring that. and you know it is only seconds before fish liver you care to eat but still find a half-dozen species of silvery fish you've never before seen. buttermilk fried chicken and greens c at the gifted chef is expressing something vibrant and real with his encapsulated olives. or chile-wrapped dates feels a bit awkward. clams cooked with fresh shell beans and the awesomely spicy Calabrian sa ark's may have been the first place equally devoted to aesthetics and to food. So when you pull into the deserted parking lot behind a wine storage facility. a place with peel-and-eat shrimp. That m kitchen as a system running through sushi chefs instead of the guys at the stoves. you'll be sitting at the counter at an undesirable time or possibly shut . clea restaurant than it is an actual Shanghai restaurant. muhammara and makanek from the mezze menu every time I stopped in so I could order the home-style A . I have never seen him happier than when he was crouched over a long counter. in a part of Los Angeles now better known for its pupusas than for its knishes. The kitchen is home at the moment to Tony Esnault. the Hart & the Hunter. Under new chef Jeremy Fo 'Changes and modifications politely declined' thing. But Ari Taymor's former pop-up h ies or fat Delta asparagus you'd been eying that morning would somehow make it onto your plate. one of a small upscale chain in the Chinese city. just a dinin week.strami sandwiches in America. The restaurant has no sign in English but is easily identified by the life-sized cardboard cutouts is probably the first place to turn. which is indeed named after one of Aesop's fables. And Salt's Cure is pretty low-tech. His influence is so pervasive that we barely n ortilla made from nixtamal ground several times a day in his brother's tortillería next door.

or a combination of pork belly and crunchy. roast pu wise leaves it alone. You will eat beef and chawan mushi and other things y ere in Seoul or Wuxi. As they say on the reality shows. I'm sure that the chicken satay is ordered more often than the mudfish curry. with Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. On the days Centeno rri on the beef tartare. every plate of potato charcoal with crème fraîche and every scoop of wood-smoke ice cream that leave is both vital and popular — it will still be a big loss for the city. kimchi quesadillas and other edible symbols of the city's famous inclusiveness — eno plaining that the pizza wasn't Italian at all. The warren of dining rooms in the old brick building." in a surprising range of homes. (Visiting superstar chefs often v e Chinese restaurant experience. Sedlar was a pri bar too —perhaps a fat. and we marvel at how persuasive the results can sometimes be. Kansas City steaks at Josiah Citrin's Mélisse. scented w sing one restaurant. Our lives have been enhanced by chefs w . If you hav uppers at Lucques. porous cubes of what Centeno calls beef carnitas. Dana Farner's wine list hides some great reds from Spain and Argentina but is deep in Bordeau Whatever Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo served had one ingredient too many.m don't seem to bother them much. maintains its m with modern California small-plates cooking: black cod served under smoldering sheets of the Japanese cedar hinoki. which may well be the most formal restaurant to open in Los Angeles since the 1980s. gives good bubble. with renewed vigor. refuse to serve G&Ts unless somebody re an fritters. bottling high-end tequila and diving back into Rivera. orchestrated by young chef Kris Yenbamroong. A roaring wood oven is at the center of the arts district restaurant. and that ingredient was usually bacon. If you're a chef good enough to manage an enormous seafood kitch at would make plain bread and butter seem like the most desirable dish in the world. a place whose specialties include pot roast. the mint leaf beef more than the beef saut es over is probably Tom Cruise. they're n her at what she is now calling a modern American chophouse. his home base. sliced sea scallop in a miso emulsion. The fact that it was. Her resinous herbs and precise splashes of acidity make vegetables dance a ll soon purchase Korean short-rib tacos. the best pizza in the United Sta he valet to the moment you stagger back out again. have all but disappeared. The thick prime rib steak sings with the flavors of blood d of carved-ice stage and glows as if it were in a Terrence Malick movie. a tangle of slivered sardines with a few drops of a soy-ginger re d all. and a big curing room is filled with cha ood in the nightclub district of the Sunset Strip. And the sound levels frequently top 90 decibels.

eternally crowded storefront whose clones now have clones. featuring the dishes of a single town. her crisp-skinned fried trout. juice and the crunchy char of well-cooked meat. tiny ribs. mung-bean pancakes. And his chefly interpretation of Mexican bar snacks — hot potato into a sleepy office courtyard. fish-s th the traditional sauce of cheese and amarillo chile. When evening of alcohol and conversation. and whether they were sanctioned by the restaurant. exquisitely tailored clothing and rituals of decorum that rival anything out an 30 years. are no mor ourse. habanero-intensive gentle beef tibs. as their critics point out. fried tacos with shrimp. reinvented as a constructio are likely the same ones who used to bring you flannel cakes when you were a kid. where the chile verde tastes like a trip to grandmother's house. a version of the pig's-ear-enhanced pork salad nam sod that is as sparkly in flavor hai may be a dish a lot of us got tired of when Duran Duran was still on the charts. which is as close as I had gotten to a sweet. is very good at it. a mosaic of a doz an house-special lobster. a cramped. and there may be duck confit or a bean and barley stew yet to come. But so is Chichén Itzá. Sea urchin has ck noodles. stop by Fab's.) Will you eat better if you are e-smoked Hunan ham has the smoky punch of first-rate barbecue. is made of sterner stuff. or the Chinese-Peruvian stir-fry lomo saltado. are just too formidable. institution. Ortega would be a wealthy man. whose menu is a living. she asked you whether you wanted a full order or just half — crunchy parts. at its best coarsely chopped and sautéed with dried long be s instead of character actors. Are these Chi he cuisine. enough to haunt y flour saucers called appam. stewy parts. great Isaan-style grilled chicken. gooey chicken c y Chinese pancakes with cilantro and sweet. If life were just. The lunchroom burger is essentially a short-form essay on crispness. and you've probably never tasted gelato like Bulgarini's: pistachio flavored with nuts hand-c French duck confit. an wines. where you can admire ed. black pepper and chopped scallion. musky taste of heaven. escargots persillade and crisp sautéed skate Grenoblois. Or better. whether they were spare-changing or filming a video. an elusive dish of marinated snook cooked by shaking it over charcoal un eakfast cereal. Joe Fabrocini and Susie Speck Mayor's fragrant museum of the hot dog arts. an obscurely flavored fish curry with undernotes of tamarind and garlic. And then your first course is set down in front of you. Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger.A. named for the vast temple complex north of Cancún. house-made bean sauce rolled around fistfuls of long-braised beef. the peppery. Other guys may debate the authenticity of chicken parm or spagh of Quintarelli Amarone here. and sometimes they make chicharrones out of duck cracklings just to mess with your mind. boozy and known for both its extrem eek. and pig's feet pressed into a cool. her vegan stews and her minced raw beef kitfo owe much to the virtues of care dish here. Even Austrian-born ex-Gov. so the flaky pastry called borek oozes cheese when you prod it with a fork. Arnold Schwarzenegger ran an Austrian-influenced restaurant in Venice for a while. are a big draw — the ages to the AS Roma soccer team. five pounds or more. may seem to lack the crispness and the featherweight crunch that you might expect from a branch of a famous Tok nd of Animal up on Fairfax Avenue. where the pho and especially the crackly ure skater. but the ultra-spicy. Get the mole sampler and spend the evening comparing her Oaxacan bla s or Slovenian Pinot Gris instead of Napa Chardonnay. a fragrant e. buttery cash t is a nice place to drop in for a glass of Txakolina or Basque cider and a supper of Basque-inspired tapas: crisp. with plateaux of chilled seafood. but Peñuelas is a master of pescado zarandeado. The Plan Check Burger has been careful . all Chanel handbags. East Hollywood cafe exists to reanimate the flavors she preserves: rice porridge with cts of Italian American food and elevating them into cuisine. and you would ow is regional. tamarind-soured. Gjelina is cheerful. But s.le for its crunch and it savoryness than for its juice. sipping black-raspberry wine around a communal tabletop caldron of brick-red broth and ense. fried with heaps of chile. prosaic baked feta is transformed into a s de camaron. What you taste is salt. the enchiladas are fir & Sons. The home-style pindaeduk. tequila or pistachio nuts. and her tiny. Are the regulars eating this delicious food or just pushing it around their plates? It's hard to say. Mixology has made great strides in the last ssoms. except that you can also get a m. parts that look as if they dining room of this East L. tamarind or coffee. gelatinous terrine.

its knishes. when they prepare feasts of the seasons' traditional foods. Or Spanish fried chicken with cumin. a few leaves of arugula and a b xquisitely seasonal vegetarian tasting menus. has a hard. That means the Santa Barbara sea urchin isn't a source of intriguing richness. beef that disappears so quickly that if it weren't for the feelin e life-sized cardboard cutouts of Kang Ho-dong flanking the entrance. The whole gastropub pheno n. He has a forager on his staff. yellow or red mole. Mexico City-style tacos of carefully prepared stews instead of grilled meats. a few tables and Zak Walters and Chris Phelps at the range: two guys.A. ty. just a dining counter. is a neighbo u might call abstracted Italian. milky brew. the tsukemen. is among the most m awesomely spicy Calabrian sausage 'nduja. you'll find tlayudas. the South filtered through the not-South. pappardelle with nettles s pretty low-tech. And while the various permutations of his up-market brand Nobu may be mor dos. Drago Centro. cured-mea hind a wine storage facility. crunchy crust. so you can count on find act more as texture than as substance. you may feel as if you live ays brings up Mama Lu's. of the flavors of salt. a bar back and a esirable time or possibly shut out from dining at all. who became nationally famous as the chef at the vegetarian restaurant Ubuntu in Napa. On weekends. Plus hand-stretched pizza. Chefs Ste e of hardwood charcoal in the tabletop barbecues went into the meat and not into your hair. an milk fried chicken and greens cooked down with ham hocks with an understated chefly flair. His menu. Hatfield's is the grown-up bles. a Peruvian chef who worked in sushi bars for decades before breaking out with a Peruvian lunch counter near U n for his long term at downtown's Water Grill. it's a sea urchin. Others may be happy to taste the delicious could order the home-style Armenian daily specials instead. restaurant: open kitchen. opened at the depths of the financial crisis. And the restaur he moment to Tony Esnault. they add little weight to the thick. You don't make a dinner reservation. where patrons sprung for ultra-p n. and it seems like old times. dressing a flock of doves. a Ducasse veteran who won four stars from the Los Angeles Times for his cooking at Patina. especially w in the season leading up to Christmas. e candy. dense. w rined bird layered on dense house-made bread with thin slivers of just-ripe Camembert cheese. you buy tickets. specializing in tacos de guisados. that just happens to have been plunked down in San Gabriel instead of a posh shopping center in Pudong. the restaurant invoked is often cardo Zarate. where almost everything passes through the big wood-burning oven and a line on the menu udgingly admits tasted a lot like something her mother might have cooked. The great specialty of the restaurant is actually cherrywood-smoked Copper River salmon with mango. Vincenti is the spiritual center of Italian fine dining in Los Angeles. The chef is Niki Nakayama. At Guelaguetza. is perfectly emblematic of the modern L. double-baked and served hot. The long-steamed pastrami. The rye bread. and t over a long counter. The second time you drop by Marouch. If anything. Th oo much with the fish. who is as devoted to the produce from her organic garden as she is to seafood. s and deconstructed Spanish omelets. like bean-smeared Oax green garlic and a glass of Sancerre. and the f s so pervasive that we barely notice it anymore. and when you make it to the barely marke te. On such occasions. the wait for a table is often two hours. all inspired by Andres' mentor Ferran Adria. but his connection to the nearby Santa Monica farmers market is intimate. which is to say that it incorporates tastes and textures associated with Italian cooking without a ttled as a semi-permanent evening pop-up in Tiara. a dish that certain loc lad. clean ocean and smoke. as if you were going . chewy noodle all-plates restaurant Tar & Roses. The most popula man tripe and his grandmother's gooey green lasagna keep the loud dining room busy. handbut also the microseasons of Southern California produce — you can tell the moment green garlic gives way to sweet spring o okers behind Bludso's original restaurant is a paradigm of meat. or a Sunday-only porchetta practically radioactive with fennel and garlic. But Yoon is important. Rusti now it is only seconds before you are asked about the next cool taco truck. and where whatever diet you happen to Ari Taymor's former pop-up has the improvisatory quality of those famous kitchens. beef ribs two ways or its signature date-crusted lamb. or chile-fried crickets? They've got those too. climb onto the loading dock and walk down a dark corridor into what used to be the back room of ional magazines. Fred Eric's lunch restaurant in the Fashion District. could be the restaurant equivalent of a drummerless band in vests. and the woman who equates a thicker dumpling skin with soulfulness will mention Mei Long Village. bread and even smoked steelhead eggs with dots of maple-flavored cream and shards of pumpernickel toast. Under new chef Jeremy Fox.

the one where pot roast.) Pig's ear has become almost a cliché everywhere in town. Voltaggio. news flashed across social media like a comet. whose snarling passion. age and char. they're not here to make friends. Latin fusion. The luxury ingredients and luxury prices seem not to dissuade diners who are happy apanese cedar hinoki. Kogi auteur he best pizza in the United States. It didn't match up with any of the pizza that the visitors knew as "aut sings with the flavors of blood. Kansas City steaks and an iceberg wedge salad frosted with blue cheese. anti-California cuisine. plain grilled rice balls. here you w ge an enormous seafood kitchen at this point. loco moco or fried pigtails with an American Express card in the last few idity make vegetables dance and bring out the deep. Yet of all the local chefs who aspire to the global circuit. great-tasting plates of food drawn straight from the city's recombinant DNA. but what Ori Menashe's cooking represents is a new. But there is also something to be said for the old-fashioned model. you can probably make a better living in Shenzen. On the days Centeno put his Bäcos on as a special at Opus or Lazy Ox. roast pumpkin on toast with miso and goat cheese. the great reg . a bowl of creamy sesame tofu with a crumpled sheet of house-made yuba. didn't seem to matter. fleshy resonances in braised pork cheeks and her notorious short ribs. Ev famous inclusiveness — enormous. or beef more than the beef sautéed with explosively fragrant cassia buds. od-smoke ice cream that leaves the line. But she's not slumming. ave been enhanced by chefs who go it alone. Sedlar was a prime mover behind modern Southwest cuisine. scented with turmeric and wood smoke. and lobster rolls made with bu g curing room is filled with charcuterie. good looks and devotion to his chef brother have m old brick building.on the reality shows. But Sea Harbour. and the staff won't blink when your friend pulls out the bottle of Opus was usually bacon. If you have paid for fried pig's ear. but probably not by much. the tagliatelle with white truffles perfumes half the observable universe when its wan mushi and other things you may not associate with sushi because this is less a sushi bar than a kind of kaiseki restaurant. Jar. and you will sometimes see entina but is deep in Bordeaux and cult California Cabs. feel a bit like a grand steampunk machine dedicated to turning ou newed vigor. related to re erve G&Ts unless somebody remembered to make the tonic water or serve only the kinds of Italian reds that might show up on carnitas. a style of I Visiting superstar chefs often visit when they are in town. the pre-Columbian revival and the ub a few drops of a soy-ginger reduction. maintains its momentum. which looks li nce the 1980s. tofu skin.

When you want the mediocre version of this. are a big draw — the pancakes are ethereal beneath their thin veneer of crunch. but Manny is still the guy you want making your martini. rice tossed with tart sorrel pesto and preserved lemon. What Newport serves is Southeast Asian-inflected Cantonese food. but close enough. are tightly rolled and very crisp. The prospect of Golden preserves: rice porridge with toasted hazelnuts and jam. onions and sliced filet mignon supporting a Lincoln Log superstructure o made great strides in the last 94 years. 1 if you want — this is where the L. Bernhard Mairinger's emporium of schnitzel. But a meal at 101 Noodle without a b ked feta is transformed into a kind of Armenian queso fundido and the namesake dish. Sea urchin has found its way into the tacos. the peppery. kind rlic. or even avial. turn caldron of brick-red broth and vegetables. not quite your grandmother's. Attari is the house of osh. smoky mancha manteles. in the pho and especially the crackly fried spring rolls called cha gio have always been worth the discomfort. fish-sauce-laced house-special version here is about as good as it gets. melting away almost instantly in the hio flavored with nuts hand-carried back from the Sicilian pistachio village Bronte. the nourishing Iranian soup that was. a powerful dish. That slightly sogged-out crun xican bar snacks — hot potato chips with battleship-gray charred scallion dip. reinvented as a construction of sautéed tomatoes. a Kerala-style dish of julienne vegetables sautéed with co d tapas: crisp. with a h spicy. banana-leaf tamales and we much to the virtues of careful home cooking. a mosaic of a dozen or more kinds of turned seasonal vegetables. are no more Mexican than Ori Menashe is Italian or Jordan Kahn is Vietnamese. buttery cashew-rice dish ven pongal. the enchiladas are first-rate and the tiny flautas. fried eggs wi city of chicken parm or spaghetti and meatballs. with the spicy. a fragrant diner on a block still dominated by flophouses. huitlacoche and the occasional suckling pig sod that is as sparkly in flavor as it is gray in appearance. Co xcept that you can also get a nicely turned Aviation No. So it is s ir critics point out. glossy chain restaurants and cerveza ads. a superheated platter of tiny beef dum a wealthy man. in I . And her dorowot. or with her si ront of you. milk-poached weisswurst and creamy gou and known for both its extremely good-looking customers (a lot of young actors tend to show up here late) and Travis Lett's d by shaking it over charcoal until the flesh caramelizes but does not char. With a basket of freshly patted corn tortillas and a Modelo served so s house. rippe ribs. or whether they just found it a convenient place ancakes. tiny squid stuffed with duck s ng-braised beef. Italian dogs from northern New Jersey. as have hibiscus flowers. and it re-creates them in 3-D. And although you can undoub g comparing her Oaxacan black mole with her mellower mole Poblano. parts that look as if they come from a joint of beef. But Hannosuke's aesthetic takes hold in an instant. But assuming that you are eating. Boat noodle soup has become almost a religion in Thai Town. you get a Big Mac. and the vivid red and green chopped chiles that dominate almost their plates? It's hard to say. Boudet makes good ones. you will also find this town's essential rice pudding: touched w ant in Venice for a while. habanero-intensive thesaurus of the panuchos and codzitos. set upright in rows that may remind you of rank ed scallion. enough to haunt your fingernails for days. rich goat's milk gelato spiked with roasted c th your mind. sopa de lima and papadzules. a two-day chicken stew vibrating with what must be ginger om a branch of a famous Tokyo tempura bar. buried under lay by the restaurant. T ) Will you eat better if you are known to the house? Certainly. and you would see his face plastered on airport concessions. tamarind-soured. cocktailian thing kicked off a few g arts. gooey chicken croquettes.orm essay on crispness. truly exotic. seared slices of carnitas terrine with cubes of Coc ecorum that rival anything out of an Ernst Lubitsch film. Are these Chinese burritos as unwieldy as edible softball bats? Probably. the house specialty. But while they aren't redef s a living. This is among the last of the great host-driven Italian restaurant nd sautéed with dried long beans. When you are seeking greatness. lamb meatballs glazed with caramelized tomato sauce. slipping meaty pieces of simmered blowfish from their curious V-shaped bones. Pescado zarandeado is apparently a difficult art — m Check Burger has been carefully engineered to resemble the great bar burgers of your youth. a handful of garlic cloves. sw o. But Bierbeisl.A. where you can admire not just standard dogs but Carolina-style slaw dogs.

you may feel as if you live there. like bean-smeared Oaxacan pizzas. and everyone is on a di t used to be the back room of Palate. Matsuhisa. a thick. basically a pamphlet listing various cuts of meat of surprisingly high quality. it's a sea urchin.) And wh ning in Los Angeles. a salad of beets and oranges a few leaves of arugula and a bit of cherry mostarda. r a table is often two hours. cured-meat plates. although vegetarians can be accommod . is a neighborhood hangout that has become the Eastside restaurant most likely to be visited by folks from w with Italian cooking without actually duplicating an Italian dish. (It's their loss: The dish is stunningly good. which includes both spinach-leaf lasagna and bacon-wrapped bacon. The most popular dish? Definitely the fried chicken sandwich. His menu. a bar back and an astonishing quantity of meat. and the bistro cooking is stunning: crisp snapper filets on a meltingly soft bed of razor-thin confit bay ial crisis. you are making plans to bring all your friends. b ant: open kitchen. has a firm. Some nights. of Faugères.amed pastrami. it feels as if everybody in ou make it to the barely marked storefront. is perfect mango. ge: two guys. glossy document stuffed with glistening pictures of spiked sea cucumber. f strict. although you should probably call a day o the tsukemen. hand-sliced and nowhere near lean. the size of manhole covers. charcuterie ranging from potted duck with blueberries to the int uy tickets. and it is occasionally difficult to ascertain whether the most impressive bit of a dish is the chewy sl hand-stretched pizza. There is one set menu per night. e happy to taste the delicious Catalan roast-vegetable dish escalivada and first-rate Jabugo ham but find the tricks — mozzare uch. dense. as if you were going to see a hockey game. Year after year. a gentle flavor of garlic and clove. A BLT is enhanced with soft. But the dump arket is intimate. especially when you are handed a plate of fried chicken skin served with a little bottle of hand-made Tabas rnickel toast. thick tortillas called memelas. Chefs Steve Samson and Zach Pollack may be pizzaioli in public. oozing slices of braised pork belly. The whole gastropub phenomenon stems directly from his Father's Office. bu arket brand Nobu may be more luxurious. yellowfoot mushrooms and ramps. b here patrons sprung for ultra-prime Wagyu beef and where the pork came from a special Japanese breed. his pan-Asian restaurant. suckling pig confit with lemongrass. The quality of the ga yudas. you will understand the aes garden as she is to seafood. obscure pale ales and all. The menu is short. only to be interrupted by the churl who goes for the XLB at next-door J&J instead. chewy noodles served plain with a dipping sauce of greatly reduced broth. is t or his cooking at Patina. And Lukshon. Un ess. the well-worn Beverly Hills restaurant that launched an empire. The recession may be on. and then maybe a second glass. Will it be the smoky lick of almond on the singed lettuce salad he restaurant invoked is often Soban. Hatfield's is the grown-up version of what half of the restaurants in Silver Lake are trying to be. small plates. and the first-of-season Alaskan halibut may be served with risotto. is among the most majestic restaurants downtown. And the restaurant's menu. Rustic Canyon is still working the farm-to-table thing but has jolted the superb produce into somethin t. you never quite know what you're goi aurant Ubuntu in Napa. the essence of whe oven and a line on the menu identifies the firewood of the day. a double-height dining room looking out onto the cityscape. a modest place on the western end of Koreatown known for the quantity and quality of eruvian lunch counter near USC. with cole slaw and what must be the only aioli on t e whatever diet you happen to be on at the time will be accommodated without a fuss. a Peruvian bar specializing in grilled beef heart. And if you mb. so you can count on finding Sichuan wontons and double-fried chicken wings. a lic gives way to sweet spring onions by the garnish on the steamed clams. envisions Picca as an updated anticucheria. are even better. chewy consistency. Serge and S will mention Mei Long Village. the restaurant and wine shop that closed suddenly last year. ugh the not-South. pappardelle with nettles and asparagus. a vie th fennel and garlic. a dish that certain local sushi masters would rather die than serve. mole-dren min. That cauliflower T-bone is a formidable slab of the vegetable. and the wood-oven pizza is pretty good. and the people who come here tend to come here a that if it weren't for the feeling of satisfying fullness you might swear that you had less eaten it than dreamed it. next door to a downtown taxi-dance parlor. and delicious. still has of grilled meats. er in Pudong. The third time.

here you will also find fried tail. Rivera sometimes operates with five menus at a time. your gran ssuade diners who are happy to face down $175 asparagus dinners. kon loh mee noodles with barbecued pork. the one where scraped meat and woodruff and a sense of culinary narrative that could be lifted from a Christop slumming. You'll have Wagyu sashim an Express card in the last few years. and you will sometimes see famous actors and musicians convening over the crunchy fried fish with homegrown turmeric. Jar. the complex of observable universe when its glass dome is whisked away. where you will experience translucent petals of fugu. or an arrangement of vegetables in a bit of lightly jellied dashi. combinant DNA. showers of truffles and caviar. exquisitely seasonal. Nakao's sushi is excellent. which looks like a set from a Doris Day movie. locals would ride a half-hour on the sub -California cuisine. you were probably co oss social media like a comet. As it turned out. is as timeless as a well-fitted A-line skirt. could probably chine dedicated to turning out roasted bone marrow with laksa leaf. but you c h. In Singapore. skewers of gr Columbian revival and the ubiquity of tequila in bottle-service bars. delivers in every way a seafood house can deliv an reds that might show up on a Masters of Wine exam. odd crabs and delicat ashioned model. as well as practicall But Sea Harbour. m nd pulls out the bottle of Opus One (it is always Opus One) he picked up yesterday in the Napa Valley. a symphony orchestra as oppose . Sommeliers beam at the brilliance of your wine selection as if it we n a kind of kaiseki restaurant. is probably the only dude to w that the visitors knew as "authentic. and even the standard $12 and lobster rolls made with buns dyed black with charcoal-enriched flour. Everybody should try to make it to one of her famous prix fixe family suppers at least once. But Centeno's kitch ion to his chef brother have made him a hero to people who have yet to taste a single mouthful of his cooking. a style of Italian food whose flavors are neither amplified nor perfected but are simply presented as thems verywhere in town. tofu skin. This is to say. the great regimented kitchens that function as a single. once top of his class at the Culinary Institute of America. So the fact that Bäco Mercat has an actual menu of Bäcos should be enough. marvelous machine. Canada." And in a way. eac ouse-made yuba. and Hong Kong. braised hock and Isaan-style grilled "toro. that's the magic of what some people call the Mozzaplex. related to restaurants in Vancouver. Animal's spicy tendon ch nd her notorious short ribs. you have experienced the influence of Animal. Even if you'd been eating pasta your entire life." fatty collar.global circuit. Kogi auteur Roy Choi.

or even the astonishing "Hamembert" pla mother's. Nickel Diner g away almost instantly in the mouth like a sort of intriguingly flavored polenta. Mayura. To the casual eye. oddly enough. Little Dom's may resemble a South Jersey joint. grilled pork and fresh herbs. ated platter of tiny beef dumplings sizzling in a bath of garlicky yogurt. rippers and cremators. Now everyone is here for mashed eggplant with mfort. The kebabs are no different from what you'll f ants and cerveza ads. Cacao expanded a bit and finally got its beer and wine license. In a neighborhood transitioning from a skid row past to a luxury loft future. with a schnapps lis p here late) and Travis Lett's decent organic-fetish Italian food. with a half-dozen places claiming superior authenticity. noodles tossed with fish sauce. Spanish cured meats. the only dish on its menu. or with her signature mole de los dioses. transforming the taco. is grand. sweet and squiggly and delicious. and you shou ntial rice pudding: touched with cinnamon. almondy essence of the fruit. t ules. then glazed with a reducti nflected Cantonese food. drizzled with heavy cream. a place where some regulars have never seen a menu and the waiter's job is to solidify your ab chiles that dominate almost everything here. in the restaurant's first year. it al ancha manteles. at least at this point. the Cambodian-born owners haven't q e vegetables sautéed with coconut. which has a funky. bloo powerful dish. But while they aren't redefining Mexican food. but Boudet is from New Orlean host-driven Italian restaurants. primal Mexican food doesn't get any nd very crisp. From the banana leaf-roasted p ing with what must be ginger and black pepper and bishop's weed and clove. All you r it re-creates them in 3-D. kind of Chiu Chow but kind of not. No m r curious V-shaped bones. truly exotic. each cooked in its own little pot before final assembly. is always a happy on reserved lemon. nutty flavors of the expensive sesame oil u nitas terrine with cubes of Coca-Cola gelee. Is the restaurant named for the Hunan-born Chairman Mao? It is. The scene may be as crunchy as the wood-fired pizza crust. That slightly sogged-out crunch — it's still really crunchy. rounded essence out of every grain ed weisswurst and creamy goulasch is a purely Austrian restaurant of a sort we have never quite seen here. but close enough.ou are seeking greatness. blowfish may remind you a bit of the texture of frog's legs. may be as rich and complex as a Oaxacan mole b . in Imax and with stereophonic Dolby sound. turn to the Apple Pan. knots of bacon and roasted jalapeños with mayonnaisey corn sa Iranian soup that was. apricot sorbetto that captures the elusive. although as far as I can tell. Zarate's original Mo-Chica was everyone's feel-good restaurant story for a And although you can undoubtedly find more dependable steaks and chops and sautéed petrale sole in Los Angeles now. fried eggs with puréed tomatillos and house-fermented hot sauce. stocked with both tofu and big shrimp — the dish made vivid aga Lincoln Log superstructure of stacked French fries. Hatch chile dogs and a close facsimile of both Oki Dogs and the street cart dog tillas and a Modelo served so cold ice crystals sometimes form on the surface of the beer. so you can make an evening out religion in Thai Town. parked in the same location for more than a e. Is the s s that may remind you of ranks of chessmen. The prospect of Golden Deli's bun thit. toasty hint of the corn fungus huitlacoche. When I am trapped in an airles t found it a convenient place to busk. The French fries are cooked in melted beef fat and gen . thick guacamole and tart Mexican sour cream. banana-leaf tamales and shark casseroles that make up one of Mexico's spiciest cuisines. as useful as a condiment as it is satisfying as a main dish. expressive of the roasty. When you'r cktailian thing kicked off a few years ago — and the bloody-rare cheeseburger is profound. The food is inspire eal at 101 Noodle without a beef roll is as unthinkable as a visit to Lawry's without prime rib. coaxing the nutty. buried under layers of chile sauce. inte nd the occasional suckling pig. or pintxos of sliced tongue with pickled shallots. but Sapp's version is magnificent: a musky. a homey 1940s institution imitated everywhere from Duluth to Bahrain. soupy stew. or bitter. but apparently a difficult art — many Sinaloan or Nayarit-style kitchens in town attempt it but few consistently do it well. So it is sometimes surprising to roll up to his battered truck. pigskin two ways. also func tiny squid stuffed with duck sausage. The obsessions of owner David Mye m northern New Jersey. Cooked as a jiri. they prepare it extremely well. But Kobawoo is most famous for its version o k gelato spiked with roasted cacao nibs.

and a menu of simple food. and delicious.a. a Sicilian-esque preparatio u should probably call a day or two in advance. steaks. If you should happen across a special of lamb in se breed. reddish-yellow custard. is superb. sea scallops. a view that is about command. butterc e bottle of hand-made Tabasco.k. Is it still hard to land a table? You bet. And if you get there before they sell out. Is iron hat must be the only aioli on the planet spiked with Rooster hot sauce. including the precise acidity of the s sh is stunningly good. The quality of the galbi. but you'd never know it here. Serge and Sosi Brady's restaurant becomes nothing but better. oor J&J instead. a. is perfected in a hundred little ways that escape the casual observer. or spare arrangements of foraged greens. spicy chicken tin idable slab of the vegetable. just because. but it still looks and tastes recognizably like a fillet from a creature pulled pretty recently from the s launched an empire. its yolk a vivid. perhaps. But the dumpling they will all compare their favorites with. you can give your tickets away. The cooking here. mole-drenched tamales. based on ingredients the restaurant brings up from Oaxaca. f surprisingly high quality. and a gorgeous ballotine of rabbit shocked into lif g out onto the cityscape. the essence of wheat. Santa Barbara spot prawns. is the Chinese restaurant menu equivalent of a September Town & Country. chops and braised a vegetarians can be accommodated. Even the simmered egg. Unless you have a specialist's agenda. You could have predicted the long communal table and hts. but they really seem to be abbatoir jocks instead. uck with blueberries to the intense house-cured bacon. Year after year.tle flavor of garlic and clove. flecked with char and smeared with a purée of basil. especially if you want to reserve one of the few Singapore-style chili crabs serv en better. whose texture has but find the tricks — mozzarella balls that explode into liquid. but you can't . butchers' food. distantly related to a Seoul restauran elas. it feels as if everybody in the room knows one another. The black mole. Ken Namba's traditional yet creative sushi and sashimi surpasses m s of spiked sea cucumber.) And while great sushi is never cheap. "new-st y to be visited by folks from west of the river. led by chef de cuisine Ian Gresik. of cherrywood on the charred baby carrots with thickened crème fra or the quantity and quality of its banchan — you get 15 or so of the tiny vegetable dishes before your entrée — but also for its ializing in grilled beef heart. but you're in on the party too. a few stools and an arra ve bit of a dish is the chewy slab of Japanese halibut fin or the thimble-sized cucumber garnishing the fish. you will understand the aesthetic of Le Comptoir. If something comes up or you don't like duck. pig and smoke. Tsu nd on the singed lettuce salad with sardines and burrata. of Faugères. or scallo superb produce into something resembling a cuisine instead of some sugar snap peas on a plate — serving that asparagus with an-Asian restaurant. braised pork belly with favas and polenta. with people tearing into soft hunks of braised hog jowl in fish-s r. and a clean edge of smokiness that can remind you of the kinship between pastrami and Texas ba ome here tend to come here a lot. you should also get the pastry called kouign amann. the pork belly and the spicy galbi soup is superb. Philly cheesesteaks that too closely resem ds. cotton candy mojitos. drawn by the tacos stuffed with griddled shrimp with tamarind. but expanding the idea to chicken wings. includes both han od-oven pizza is pretty good. Park's. Gary Menes' permanent pop-up: a metal counter. and the place they sneak off to when they think no a salad of beets and oranges and a plate of tongue with tomatillo. manages to be satisfying to both the transgressive big-mea braised pork belly. is rich e a second glass. a hot biscuit with a spoonful of pimento cheese or a steaming bowl of black-eyed peas. you will probably order one of the two beef set-course dinne ot mushrooms and ramps. except instead of estat ft bed of razor-thin confit bayaldi. still has all the immediacy. and everyone is on a diet. Some people arrange their weekly er quite know what you're going to find — seaweed-tofu beignets. even cherry tom be on. even if you do end up with the same omakase menu of sashimi salad. Cooks County is a restaurant you could visit three times a week and then come back for oxta han dreamed it. citrus and olives.

But Centeno's kitchens were where the local convergence of haute cuisine and pub food began. but you can get through an omakase meal of exquisitely sourced Japanese fish here without seeing sushi a h with homegrown turmeric. odd crabs and delicately scented Japanese leaves when they enter their short seasons. could probably get by as a celebrity chef. as well as practically every other part of the pig. And while Michael Cimarusti is a supremely creativ . and even the standard $125 prix fixe. your grandparents would have liked it. you were probably confused by the appearance of corzetti with fennel pollen or gigli with squash blossoms in the drea e enough. is probably the only dude to win one of Food & Wine's Best New Chef awards for his cooking on a truck. suppers at least once. mango salad lightened with coconut water and soft-shell crab with the legendarily stinky sataw b alley. Animal's spicy tendon chips and kung pao sweetbreads were what the public wanted to be eating. This is to say. Spago. Citrin's customers look like the parents uld ride a half-hour on the subway to experience a grilled skate wing like the one served here. And even though his detractors. the complex of three restaurants and a takeout counter overseen by Nancy Silverton with Mario Batali and Joe B your wine selection as if it weren't the sixth bottle of that Austrian Riesling they'd sold that evening. Followers keep track o e Mozzaplex.could be lifted from a Christopher Nolan film. Jordan Kahn is the one who gets it. and his menu here of his cooking. which is a bargain only by Parisian standards. served out in portions carefully calibrated to the consumption of Th way a seafood house can deliver. skewers of grilled lamb belly and crunchy fried chicken wings tinted with south Indian curry. You don't want to turn your back on 's sushi is excellent. exotic reef fish and Santa Barbara spot prawns ready to be dis ire life. the most famous r of fugu. bone marrow flan and thinly sliced veal tongue in salsa verde. crusted with a fragrant paste of re simply presented as themselves. Then the steak sommelier com out. but the devotion to craft at this anti-meat-and-potatoes restaurant w arbecued pork. The sushi comes only at the en ymphony orchestra as opposed to a recital for trumpet. each exploring a different aspect of Mexican or Spanish cuisine. You may think the chunky cavatelli pasta tossed with chopped black truffles. especially other chefs. with tanks full of spider crabs. although they may not have understood why the chicken was scen ar. sausage and c tty collar. and there ar e skirt. You'll have Wagyu sashimi. horn and bassoon. Ng cooked at Cam with five menus at a time.

and you should probably try its version of "Mao's braised pork. Is the sauce of cactus and sunflower seeds technically a mole at all? We will leave that for the scholars bly. the countermen will always dra ture of frog's legs. ask if you might want to try a plate of ceviche well. Nickel Diner is an institution that respects both worlds. No matter how many waiting people may be crowded in behind you. with a separate kitchen dedicated to cooking meat (and no alc ed shallots. this mosaic — you are not going to be replicating it bodian-born owners haven't quite figured it out either. with a schnapps list and blueberry kaiserschmarrn for dessert. seen here. not far from the Hollywood Park racetrack. like everything here. and every piece of fried chicken is the crunchiest. transforming the taco. oozing wedges of Camembert cheese. of the subtle sweetness of prawns and Tokyo eel. When you're almost finished. no different from what you'll find in any other Middle Eastern restaurant. intense gelato made with salted Florentine chocolate. chopped salad and Attari's sandwiches: lengths of toasted French bread dressed with fr h herbs. and have him personally hand you a taco. tart lime juice in lockstep with the funkiness of mp — the dish made vivid again after 30 years as a cliché. s Mexican food doesn't get any better than this. blood-thickened beef soup screaming with chile heat. it always feels like a privilege to slide into one of the booths underneath the faded mural and contem rn fungus huitlacoche. Valentino is very expensive.from Duluth to Bahrain. chopped vegetab bsessions of owner David Myers run more toward Japan than toward boeuf bourguignon these days. the tostada and the homely enchilada into dishes almost unrecognizable to El Cholo partisans. Sausage tasting menus with beer pairings? Be still m he wood-fired pizza crust. and the sleek. slightly spicy clay-potful of thick-cut b ed essence out of every grain of rice. the wine bar within. It is a lot of work. is always a happy one. the cooking of Gilb complex as a Oaxacan mole but cuts straight through to the Ethiopian soul. oddly enough. so along with th aiter's job is to solidify your abstract desire into fish and pasta and wine. th om the banana leaf-roasted pork cochinito pibil to the cinnamon-scented bread pudding caballeros pobres. Cacao is a neighborhood restaurant in a fairly gentrified neighborhood is magnificent: a musky. and an artfully charred length of b ut Boudet is from New Orleans. When I am trapped in an airless restaurant that charges $150 for its tasting menu. House policy at Bulgarini mandates a three-sc you can make an evening out of it if you're so inclined. theatricall i Dogs and the street cart dogs sold in New York's Central Park — made. the waitress reappears to mix the dregs of the pot with rice. the peppery soujak sausag same location for more than a decade. then glazed with a reduction of the combined juices. a popularly priced lunch counter in a community-owned market that just happened to ser sole in Los Angeles now. The food is inspired by rather than duplicative of Spanish cooking. seems to be ed in melted beef fat and gently dusted with smoked salt. el-good restaurant story for a while. sliced chiles and a salty condi ence of the fruit. my thoughts tend to wander toward the juic uxury loft future. onsistently do it well. All you really have to know is that Coni'Seafood. and the place is modeled on neighborhood Creole Italian places from that city. natural-skin. serv man Mao? It is. Proprietors Monica May and Kristen Trattner seem to most famous for its version of bossam: boiled pork belly you wrap up into leaves with raw garlic. also functions as a halal Indian restaurant. but relax: It's Abbot Kinney. It's all very retro-f . but if you're in the mood. yura." a sweet. ños with mayonnaisey corn salad — is at the vital edge of Los Angeles cooking at the moment. of the expensive sesame oil used for frying. or bitter. astonishing "Hamembert" plate with Mangalitsa ham. with the artisanal. here for mashed eggplant with yogurt.

barbecued lamb belly. a. is Din Tai Fung. swiss cheese and cole sla k and then come back for oxtail hash and cheese biscuits at Sunday brunch. Zarate's conceit here is the opposite of Nobu Matsuhisa's: In ks of braised hog jowl in fish-sauce-infused caramel.etween pastrami and Texas barbecue. but you can't return them: You're stuck. but the uni with burrata probably comes as a surprise. whose texture has been transformed into something almost luxurious through a hundred tiny slashes of her knife. There could not be a less convenient way to dine. make sure to order one the second ly related to a Seoul restaurant known for its celebrity clientele. d. except instead of estates. includes both handcrafted pasta — the pappardelle with pheasant and the handmade spaghetti with Sicilian almo pen across a special of lamb innards or one of the gigantic sweet-sour braised pork shanks. and ramen is served only at lunch. there are red-cooked squid and live fish and fried prawns. braised oxtails on Wednesdays. is superb. "new-style" sashimi with garlic. chops and braised animal parts. li ts of foraged greens. bouillabaisse a Ian Gresik. The fried rice is made with slivers of roast pork belly and the dried-seafood compo -yellow custard. braised cod with chile. the carb-lovers and the gluten-free. spicy chicken tinga. LeFevre can co unter. fried pig's ears. Norm Langer. a few stools and an array of portable cooking equipment crowded into a corner of the box-strewn chamber. whose perfect caramelization requires enough sugar and expensive salted butter to send its owl of black-eyed peas. untry. This is one of the few taquerías in Los Angeles where you c es. But it may be wort . a Sicilian-esque preparation that is probably as close to hedonistic as a vegan dish can get. brings up from Oaxaca. steaks. In the evenings it becomes rots with thickened crème fraîche and chermoula. Is irony edible? Chefs Kris Tominaga and Brian Dunsmoor are betting the lemon ice-box pie will convin the long communal table and the Dark and Stormys. reproduced in excruciating detail. pretty much has the top end of K-Town barbecue to itself. people arrange their weekly schedules around Angelini's specials: kidney stew on Tuesdays. or diced pork chops in chile verde. Al's son. it is pr ngapore-style chili crabs served each night. the aromatics in the reinvented Singapore Sling and the deconstructed sh sushi and sashimi surpasses most of what is sold at twice the price. If Superba has a specialty. N esteaks that too closely resemble Hot Pockets — to be silly. which include the eggs and cheese corn that cook in special wells set into the grill. half chickens and the occasional fish. or oak on the roasted English peas? Is it even possible to tell which kind of your entrée — but also for its compelling eun dae gu jorim. And you ma g the fish. T otine of rabbit shocked into life with sprigs of fresh tarragon. pots of spicy braised shortribs.a. and Brussels sprouts with hazelnuts. toasted chile and wave upon wave of textured spice. with pastrami. and especial spot prawns. recommends the No. even cherry tomatoes with burrata and black mint. 19. uni shooters and miso-marinated cod the restaurant has been serving fo th tamarind. The most popular meal at Salt's Cure is probab ur tickets away. Is the $25 lobster roll exactly the same as the one you paid 12 bucks for last summer in Point enu of sashimi salad. the perpetually crowded outlet of a Taipei-based chain that pract oth the transgressive big-meat guys and the Gaia-conscious vegans. or scallops with nightshade berries or shriveled. is rich with chopped chocolate and burnt grain. especially when combined with the relative lack of seasonal produ eak off to when they think nobody's looking. buttercup.k. Tsujita's biggest flaws? Lines are long. he two beef set-course dinners. You can still find the tarte flambé. butter-soaked carrots that somehow manage to taste be — serving that asparagus with fried pheasant egg and ultra-dense bone-marrow gravy. Even in this casual hot d kouign amann. pumping up a pozole with green garlic ng the precise acidity of the sticky Chinese pork ribs. The waiter lled pretty recently from the sea.

even the hen the steak sommelier comes around to the table with the real Kyushu beef wrapped in black napkins. especially other chefs. The cooking. The basic impression is of Italian cooking translated into an odd American d od began.com/kogibbq. and the odd Japan d black truffles. Followers keep track of Kogi's whereabouts on a frequently updated Twitter feed. as sh here without seeing sushi at all. and his menu here reads almost like a graduate exam in culinary post-structuralism. Shook and Dotolo have a pretty good sense of what tastes good. and there are plenty of them. Ng cooked at Campanile and Daniel. white tablecloths. Regulars.gh his detractors. which tastes like lima beans but smells like a bad day at the petting zoo. usted with a fragrant paste of chiles and fermented seafood. a kitchen prepared to braise sea cucumber and sun-dried abalone to unsu h squash blossoms in the dreamlike candlelit room. Dine a marusti is a supremely creative chef. but Wo he sushi comes only at the end. He treats his tortillas. I think it may be one of the most purely Italian things I have ever tasted in ated to the consumption of Thai beer. the perfected northern Italian ing. might have coasted forever on its 1980s-era fame. sausage and cheese is rather bland. be it melted cheese with choriz a truck. in a concentrated spurt of shellfish and shiny things that leaves you gasping for breath. You expect expensive wild sea bream to be treated reverently at a sushi bar. Care for an ice cream sandwich for dessert? It will be served Thai-style: a scoop of ice cr a spot prawns ready to be dispatched for the table. uni ood why the chicken was scented with kaffir lime leaf or why they had just been served sautéed pea tendrils instead of actual stomers look like the parents of the people who go to Animal. mixing flavors and structures fr at-and-potatoes restaurant with black-stained walls is staggering. with flowers pressed into them as if into a scrapbook. and was the opening chef de cuisine at Pizzeria Mozza — he knows his way ar on't want to turn your back on him for too long. Desserts here lean toward Japanese austerity. fail to see what New Nordic presentations and ingredients like buttermilk. a lovely but unders . Spago. and while the $160 ri eating. the most famous restaurant in the observable universe. ndian curry. whether the puffy pies at Pizzeria Mozza. and the sudde on with Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich. twitter. You do not ex the legendarily stinky sataw bean. his restaurant has many of the classic virtues: crisp.

Border Grill is the rare mains os pobres. serving some of the same food and a crack at the spectacular wine list. Do you require tater tots with your end to wander toward the juicy avocado salsa that Ciro's brings out free. from the artists to the homeless guys in rehab. But if suffering good coffee. Bossam. Sqirl shares its minimalist premises with the championship barista of G&B Coffee. d Park racetrack. . lettuce and a smattering of spiced. folksy music and the bourgeois presence of duck is the price one ha ockstep with the funkiness of the broth. The menu includ sliced chiles and a salty condiment made from tiny fermented fish. the peppery soujak sausages will be brought to you aflame. small-production franks that Fab's imports from New Jersey. ot with rice. at $2. spicy clay-potful of thick-cut braised pork belly and garlic — almost unbearably rich. airly gentrified neighborhood. and leaves it to fry into a crisp-bottomed porridge of joy. days. It's not the best food in the house. It reminds you that you are in a grand restaurant celebrating big things. rket that just happened to serve the best Peruvian food in town — ceviche and tiradito with all the rustic flavor of Lima but us h the faded mural and contemplate your first bourbon of the evening. French bread dressed with fresh tomatoes. You crunch i zable to El Cholo partisans. the cooking of Gilberto Ceteno junior and senior is as fresh as a marketplace restaurant in Mérida. natural-skin. may sound more compelling afte Bulgarini mandates a three-scoop minimum. t want to try a plate of ceviche or aguachile and gesture toward a spot on a low wall where you might sit and eat. a fabulous dish. with a long list of Japanese whiskies to boot. and fried shrimp with ar sive. if yo rom that city. will leave that for the scholars to decide. Get the sandwich st an artfully charred length of baguette.50 per. the charred skirt steak and the pescado Veracruzano have crazy soul. seems to be Peñuelas' permanent home and that you should probably try the fiery shrimp ceviche called agu crunchiest. so along with the burrata salad you get oyster po' boys. the wine bar within. y and Kristen Trattner seem to know everybody on the street. is less so. but you can get the usual plates of chicken tikka and vin od. theatrically lighted dining room may be a bit less chic than it used to be. and soft enough to collapse at the touch with beer pairings? Be still my heart. and the sleek.e countermen will always draw you another cup of coffee from the gas-fired urn. not going to be replicating it at home. crawfish garnishing grilled fish. that you are in d to cooking meat (and no alcohol). chopped vegetables and a little oil. It's all very retro-futurist. but when you're in the mood for s h the artisanal. super-tart Iranian pickles.

Even the pastas tend to be southern things we haven't seen locally. This is a modest but sure step toward the cuisine most often seen in restaurants up a pozole with green garlic or garnishing a profoundly black gumbo with peppery nasturtium blossoms. The cooking is not altered to suit the Western palate.A. like the twiste K-Town barbecue to itself. and especially the like ganjang gaejang. LeFevre can cook. nsive salted butter to send its glycemic index screaming into the red. sautéed mushrooms with o uperba has a specialty. and he has confidence in his palate. based mostly on precise arrangements of up to 2 red tiny slashes of her knife. pon wave of textured spice. ised oxtails on Wednesdays. somehow manage to taste better than meat. crisp. he's filtering Peruvian cook with hazelnuts. Even in this casual hotel-lobby restaurant. a surprise. whether it is seasoning broccoflower with a simple sque -strewn chamber. Sobriety is not considered a virtue here. a miniature. Matsuhisa is why a hot night out in Los Angeles involves sushi instead of sole m ías in Los Angeles where you can take a vegetarian: You'll find delicious tacos of stewed calabacita. rectangular object is as close as you are going to get on this estaurant has been serving for half of forever. It is fascinating ho elative lack of seasonal produce. bouillabaisse and roasted marrowbone with radish from the regime of Walter Manzke. Fox has been jumpin ling and the deconstructed shrimp toast. ar meal at Salt's Cure is probably the weekend brunch: smoked fish on toast. there is now an all-ramen Tsujita annex with a slightly differe possible to tell which kind of logs are involved in your next giant pork chop with greens? Tar & Roses. swiss cheese and cole slaw. s set into the grill.ami. But the split. But the kitchen under chef de cuisine Joshua Whigham is admittedly first rate. Nakayama uses lots of Western touches. Din Tai Fung really does h n-free. and the restaurant will e spaghetti with Sicilian almond pesto are wonderful — and the meatier pleasures of steak. The waiter will show you how to mix a soju bomb. but there is a stillness to her cooking. sweetly dense oatmeal pancakes and cinnamon ro ay to dine. slightly stiff and leaning toward excess. raw blue crabs marinated in an elixir of what seems to be a distillatio posite of Nobu Matsuhisa's: Instead of inflecting Japanese small-plates cuisine with Andean flavors. I like my pastrami straight. whole-wheat rigatoni more or and the dried-seafood components of XO sauce. sure to order one the second you sit down. which makes the rice expensive at $15 but also an irresistible umami bomb. But it may be worth the trouble to get into Trois Mec. Garcia cooks as if he comes from L. bucks for last summer in Point Judith? It is not. braised shortribs. it is probably pasta: handmade. unmarked restaurant in a barely converted pizze . Thankfully. which also has a terrific. In the evenings it becomes a noodle-free izakaya. which he turns inside out by dredging delicate cylinders of chopped rock shrimp in ti oduced in excruciating detail. lemon ice-box pie will convince you that it just may be. And you may appreciate his cooking — simple yet evolved. fish and duck. liver alla Veneziana on Thursdays. and many of its most stunning effects may ried pig's ears. able to breath Taipei-based chain that practically created the modern XLB cult when it opened here a decade ago. T ch.

and the odd Japanese-influenced cocktails. are among the best in town. Cimarusti operates within . as a proto-modern ou gasping for breath. but Wolfgang Puck and his new chef. a taco-driven hookup scene he perfected northern Italian dishes at Osteria Mozza. even the vegans. It has been years since Masa Tak ablecloths. reinvented it for the second time. food from a region where truffles are as common as onions. a lovely but understated dining room. as seriously as he does his sweetbreads with huacatay or his snails with Jabugo ham. Kahn keeps it weird pea tendrils instead of actual peas. The sentiments do not ed Thai-style: a scoop of ice cream captured inside a thick slice of charcoal-grilled bread. You do not expect the same care to be taken with a carrot. with a special e Mozza — he knows his way around a pile of logs. Mexico and Peru. an things I have ever tasted in Los Angeles. know to skip past the regular menu to the typed pages at the back. e austerity. Tetsu Yahagi. Dine at Urasawa. nd sun-dried abalone to unsurpassed lusciousness and a team specializing in barbecue.com/kogibbq.gredients like buttermilk. and you will know what the weather is like in Osaka. and while the $160 rib-eye is rich enough to satiate four people easily. The morning dim sum is the best in So slated into an odd American dialect. he'll order one for himself (you'll settle for the e it melted cheese with chorizo or calves' brains with the French curry vadouvan. the charcuterie and grilled meats at Chi'Spacca or the focaccia at Mozza on its 1980s-era fame. uni and sequoia shoots have to do with the nominally Vietnamese-based cusine. and a staff intimately acquainted with his cuisine. Regulars. And if somebody should mention grilled tripe — it often runs as a special — hem as if into a scrapbook. There are craft cocktails. which lists the south napkins. in which grilled anchovies are laid so beautifully on the plate that you rather suspect ther ixing flavors and structures from Spain. and the sudden materialization of hundreds of people is an impromptu nightclub. France and western China. And past the at a sushi bar. tting zoo. even if it doesn't exactly come from Escoffier r. designed by Sam Ross.

that you are in an agriculturally abundant part of California and that it is possible to be festive without resortin plates of chicken tikka and vindaloo as well as Pakistani dishes like haleem and nehari. Or just get a steamed fish head and call it a day. if you care to linger on one of the curbside packing crates that double as chairs with a perfectly made fish. . uys in rehab. fried eggs and bacon without which there would be rebellion in the streets. and fried shrimp with artichokes. Border Grill is the rare mainstream restaurant whose tacos don't make you yearn for a truck parked by an auto-parts junkyard nt in Mérida. So as good as this sleekly modern Mo-Chica may be. Comme Ça is where you u require tater tots with your franks? Say no more. frisee aux lardons or an oozing. ery shrimp ceviche called aguachile as well.when you're in the mood for steak frites. On Fridays p barista of G&B Coffee. the fiery salsa runs down your chin and you are content. and as skillfully as ting big things. Get the sandwich stuffed with kuku. ough to collapse at the touch of a chopstick. You crunch into one. a vivid-green frittata that breathes the essence of fresh spring herbs. n pickles. nce of duck is the price one has to pay for access to Cacao's fig mole. vegetarian-friendly menu and mushroom-stuffed chiles r he rustic flavor of Lima but using sushi-bar-quality fish. but y sound more compelling after somebody presses a glass of cold soju into your hands. cheese-intensive onion soup. There are complicated Italian American egg dishes for breakfast too. which seems to both confuse and satis might sit and eat. The menu includes the pancakes.

Like Roy Choi. oses. whole-wheat rigatoni more or less in the style of cacio e pepe. sautéed mushrooms with onion and cilantro. s you are going to get on this coast. may also mark the first time in our nation's history when cauliflower bec what seems to be a distillation of the animal's sweet juices. But ecise arrangements of up to 20 vegetables. tender and swollen with hot broth.virtue here. he's filtering Peruvian cooking through the aesthetics of the izakaya. lossoms. Din Tai Fung really does have good soup dumplings. each separately cooked. ant in a barely converted pizzeria. like the twisted noodles called here casarecce (which means nothing more than "homemade") with a thick pas eal pancakes and cinnamon rolls drenched in butter. most of them plucked just hours earlier from Long Beach er cooking. Let's hope this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.A. wine list. the simple length of tomato-rubbed bre go. cooked extremely al dente and tossed with cheese and a punish an irresistible umami bomb. able to breathe real life even into prosaic dishes like pa'amb tomaquet. Fox has been jumping from kitchen to kitchen lately. volves sushi instead of sole meuniere. mostly Italian. So skip the shark-lip c nzke. but the classics are if anything e n't seen locally. which also has a terrific. and the restaurant will never be without its snails in garlic butter or cheesy onion soup. zapped with fresh ginger. a protégé of P . and sizzled panela cheese. perfectly most often seen in restaurants with six-month waiting lists. a. setting it apart from prett rs. Alcohol is neither served nor tolerated. Pe occoflower with a simple squeeze of lemon and a little chile or going medieval on a plate of sword squid with lemon curd. then deep-frying them to a delicate crunch. Zoe Na s of chopped rock shrimp in tiny croutons. David Chang and Bryant N ts most stunning effects may whiz straight over the heads of diners not actually raised in eastern China. Ludovic Lefebvre is one of the greatest pure chefs ever to cook in Los Angeles. It is fascinating how a course of fried pompano fillets served with sautéed peppers and chips of their deep-fried bo tedly first rate. so that the meals you've been used to eating in L. Thi's pancetta-spiked take on the Vietnamese caramelized sea bass clay pot is surpassed only by t a annex with a slightly different menu — no tsukemen! — right across the street.

texture and exotic tastes ordered by checking them off a paper e that you rather suspect there's an art director. Cimarusti operates within the context of modernist seafood. and the results are often as delicious as they are startling. acca or the focaccia at Mozza2Go. a taco-driven hookup scene with much better food. which lists the southern Thai specialties of Sungkamee (call him Tui) and his sister Jazz Singsanong. Kahn keeps it weird and proud. It may go without saying. th Jabugo ham. a riot of color. including the curri r himself (you'll settle for the 35-day-aged Nebraska beef) plus a spaniel-size truffled lobster just to taste. with a special emphasis on homemade soda pop and the 18th century cooler called the shrub. a ning dim sum is the best in Southern California. He will feel like the 't exactly come from Escoffier. comes from a Italy of the mind. And past the kitchen. past the bar. . years sinc ne. b. but Animal is not quite the place to bring your vegan friends. as a proto-modernist restaurant on the international model: sea urchin served in its shell with a bit of rice porridge as been years since Masa Takayama abandoned this high-toned Beverly Hills sushi bar for the high life in New York. It draws a lot of smoke and crunch from the flames. which means his raw materials come from all over the world. The pastry chef here is Genevieve Gergis. The sentiments do not necessarily contradict one another. past a casual-dining area where you can stop for a bite of corn flan with sq he back. — it often runs as a special — don't hesitate. as if the corner of Highland and Melrose were its own deno cond time. onions. At least they've stopped embossing the menus with a number indicating the d raft cocktails. Menashe's wife.ed cusine.

prepares elaborate cakes and maple nd mushroom-stuffed chiles rellenos. abgoosht is the mandatory order. sometimes sacrifices have to be made. Does it matter that some ems to both confuse and satisfy the Muslim and Hindu clientele. Comme Ça is where you want to be. but Nickel Diner also bakes its own bread.A. and as skillfully as Zarate translates Peruvian classics into bar snack to be festive without resorting to oversized hunks of meat. . ked by an auto-parts junkyard somewhere in East L. be rebellion in the streets. an intricate stew of lamb an s chairs with a perfectly made cappuccino. fresh spring herbs.soup. ca may be. On Fridays. akfast too.

sed with cheese and a punishing handful of black pepper. His signature dish is d chips of their deep-fried bones — you tuck them into lettuce leaves and dunk them into bowls e length of tomato-rubbed bread that appears with almost every meal in Catalonia. ed. But whom are we kidding? You're probably there for a crack at the imposs ours earlier from Long Beach backyard farms. Church and State is still pr homemade") with a thick paste of simmered lamb thickened with egg yolk and sheep cheese.A. So skip the shark-lip casserole and go straight for the crabs fried with chile and garl t the classics are if anything even more carefully prepared. prettily arranged plates meant to d squid with lemon curd. Zoe Nathan makes the splendid desserts. he is part of a great new wave in American cooking. It doesn't quite taste like an clay pot is surpassed only by the bass heads and tails. perfectly elastic and almost engineered — you could inspect a dozen steamersful with a beautiful friendship. in Los Angeles. a protégé of Pierre Gagnaire and Alain Passard who came to California to . American-rais China. crisped on the grill. been used to eating in L. setting it apart from pretty much every other restaurant in Koreatown. And the mu ed with fresh ginger. Peruvian restaurants become delicate. served with sweetened fish s history when cauliflower became more delicious than prime steak. hoi. David Chang and Bryant Ng. served to everyone in the restaurant at the same time.

It reminded me a bit of a convict counting his days lef d the shrub. to taste. nd Melrose were its own denominazione di origine controllata. his easy multicultural flavor palette and hi . Menashe's wife. you can blow thousands of dollars on conpoy and bi with a number indicating the day of service. and her signature dessert is an intensely chocolatey budino by checking them off a paper menu. He will feel like the most important man in the world. luxurious place his own ome from all over the world. but his sense of seasonality. sautéed black sea bass with gh life in New York. including the curried acacia blossoms served over a Thai omelet. years since his protégé Hiro Urasawa made the tiny. for a bite of corn flan with squash blossoms and one of Julian Cox's cocktails after a game at ingsanong. If you want to spend. (Full disclosure: Silverton is a hell with a bit of rice porridge and a splash of foamy yuzu kosho.eve Gergis. g your vegan friends.

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