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Capricious
by Elena Nodel

Capricious cardigan is the adult version of my Sweet Poppy design. The cardigan is completely seamless and is worked from the top down. I have used an amazing technique developed by Susie Myers, contiguous set-in sleeves, that allows shoulder shaping and set-in sleeves construction without the use of a single short row.

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Sizes available:
When choosing a size, please measure yourself at the fullest part of the chest and choose the size accordingly. About 1 inch of positive ease is already incorporated into the pattern. Length is measured from the underarm to where the back ends. Size XS S1 S2 M1 M2 L1 L2 XL1 XL2 XXL XXXL Chest 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 49 52 Armhole Depth 6.5 7 7 7 7.5 7.5 8 8 8.5 8.5 9 Upper Arm 9.5 10 10 10.5 11 11.5 12 13 14 15.5 17 Length 15 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 18 18 18 Yardage 1000 1100 1200 1300 1350 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1950

Gauge: 22 sts and 29 rows per 4x4 inches in stockinette stitch on 4.0 mm needles or size to
obtain gauge.

Suggested yarn:
Dia Fingering from Color Adventures (100% merino; 378 yds/346m in 4.0 oz. /115 g); Sweet Merino DK from Color Adventures (100%merino; 250yds/227 m in 4.0 oz. /115 g); Haven 4 ply from Naturally (100%merino; 194 yards/177 m in 1.76 oz. /50 g). Please note that silk and bamboo blend yarns are not recommended for this project. Note: sample show was made with Haven 4 ply, Soft Plum colorway with about 1.5 inches of extra length.

Notions:
US # 6/4.0 mm circular needles (30 cm/40 cm or dpns; 80 or 100 cm) or size to obtain gauge; US #4/ 3.5 mm circular needles (150 cm); 4 stitch markers to mark shoulder/sleeve areas; Cable needle (cn); Tapestry needle; Waste yarn/stitch holders.

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Abbreviations:
pm = place marker; slipm = move marker from the left needle to the right needle; k = knit; p = purl; k2tog = knit two stitches together as one, i.e. making 1 st out of 2 sts; skp = slip one stitch as if to knit, knit the following stitch, then pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one; pfab = purl into the front and then into the back of the same stitch, i.e. making 2 sts out of 1; kfab = knit into the front of the stitch, then knit into the back of the same stitch, then slip the stitch off the left needle, 2 sts made out of 1; dliL = directional lifted increase to the left (see reference chapter):pick up the loop 2 rows below the first stitch on the right needle and knit it; dliR = directional lifted increase to the right (see reference chapter): pick up the loop on the row below the first stitch on the left needle, knit it; M1L = left leaning increase; with the left needle pick up the bar between stitches from the front, then knit through the back of the loop; M1R = right leaning increase; with the left needle pick up the bar between stitches from behind, then knit through the front loop; 3/3 LC = put 3 sts onto the cn, hold to the front of the work, k3, then k3 from the cn; 3/3 RC = put 3 sts onto the cn, hold to the back of the work, k3, then k3 from the cn; 4/4 LC = put 4 sts onto the cn, hold to the front of the work, k4, then k4 from the cn; 4/4 RC = put 4 sts onto the cn, hold to the back of the work, k4, then k4 from the cn.

~ Pattern Instructions ~
Note: sizes are set up as follows: XS (S1, S2, M1, M2, L1), (L2, XL1, XL2, XXL, XXXL). Using larger sized needles, and any method you prefer (for example, long tail cast on) cast on 52 (52, 54, 54, 54, 58), (60, 60, 62, 64, 66) sts. On your first row you will be dividing your stitches for right front, right shoulder, back, left shoulder, left front with stitch markers as follows: Set Up Row 1 (WS):
XS: p2, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p32, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p2 S1: p2, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p32, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p2 S2: p2, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p34, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p2 M1: p2, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p34, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p2 M2: p2, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p34, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p2 L1: p2, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p38, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p2 L2: p2, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p40, pm, k1, p6, k1, pm, p2 XL1: p2, pm, k1, p8, k1, pm, p36, pm, k1, p8, k1, pm, p2 XL2: p2, pm, k1, p8, k1, pm, p38, pm, k1, p8, k1, pm, p2 XXL: p2, pm, k1, p8, k1, pm, p40, pm, k1, p8, k1, pm, p2 XXXL: p2, pm, k1, p8, k1, pm, p42, pm, k1, p8, k1, pm, p2

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Set Up Row 2 (RS): Sizes XS to L2 only (8 sts saddle shoulder): kfab, k1, slipm, p1, k6, p1, slipm, kfab, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfab, k1, slipm, p1, k6, p1, slipm, kfab, k1. Sizes XL1 and up only (10 sts saddle shoulder): kfab, k1, slipm, p1, k8, p1, slipm, kfab, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfab, k1, slipm, p1, k8, p1, slipm, kfab, k1. From now on you will be working saddle shoulder as given in the set up row 2, i.e. either over 8 sts or over 10 sts, depending on your size. Please see page 13 for the appropriate cable charts.

Shoulder Slope Shaping:


You will start forming shoulder slopes, and at the same time you will be increasing back sts and forming front sts. Row 3 (WS): *purl to 2 sts before marker, pfab, p1, slipm, k1, purl 6/8 sts, k1, slipm, pfab *, repeat * one more time, purl to the end. Row 4 (RS) first cable crossing row for saddle shoulder: Note: Start cables from Row 1 of the chart, and then keep repeating rows 1-8 or 1-10, as appropriate for your size. *knit to 2 sts before marker, kfab, k1, slipm, p1, cable 6/8 sts, p1, slipm, kfab *, repeat * one more time, knit to the end. Repeat rows 3 and 4 till you have the following number of stitches between markers: Size XS S1 S2 M1 M2 L1 L2 XL1 XL2 XXL XXXL Left Front 21 23 23 23 25 25 27 29 29 29 29 Left Shoulder 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 10 10 10 10 Back 70 74 76 76 80 84 90 90 92 94 96
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Right Shoulder 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 10 10 10 10

Right front 21 23 23 23 25 25 27 29 29 29 29

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Sleeve and Neckline Shaping:


(WS) - set up row: *purl to 2 sts before marker, pm, p2, remove marker, k1, p6/8, k1, remove marker, p2, pm,*, repeat * one more time, purl to the end. Note: you have just added 4 sts to each sleeve by moving 2 front and 2 back sts towards each sleeve cap. Your stitch count for each front is decreased by 2, and for your back stitches is decreased by 4. You will continue with fronts shaping and at the same time you will start forming sleeves. Sleeve increases are done as kfab on the RS and as pfab on the WS. Back stitches are worked in stockinette stitch (knit on RS and purled on WS) with no more increases.

Customizing sleeve width (optional):


Upper arm measurements are given on page 2; those are standard average measurements for each size. If you need to customize the upper arm, the instructions below tell you how to. Upper Arm: Each sleeve WS increase row adds 2 sts. For example, if you want to take 1 inch off from the sleeve width, then you need to subtract 6 sts from the number given in pattern instructions; therefore you will be substituting row 2 instructions with row 6 for three WS rows. If you want to add stitches to the sleeve's width, then you need to work more WS increases. For example, if you want to add 1 inch more (i.e. 6 sts more) then you will be substituting row 6 instructions with row 2 for three WS rows. Please read the instructions below and on the next page in full before making any changes. Row 1 (RS): kfab, *knit to marker, slipm, kfab, knit to central 8/10 sts, p1, cable 6/8 sts, p1, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfab, k1, slipm,* repeat * one more time, knit to the last stitch, kfab. Row 2 (WS): *purl to marker, slipm, pfab, purl to central 8/10 sts, k1, purl 6/8 sts, k1, purl to 2 sts before marker, pfab, p1, slipm,* repeat * one more time, purl to the end.

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Row 3 (RS): *knit to marker, slipm, kfab, knit to central 8/10 sts, p1, cable 6/8 sts, p1, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfab, k1, slipm,* repeat * one more time, knit to the end.

Sizes XL1 to XXXL only: Repeat Rows 5-8 five more times. Your fronts should have 24 (26, 26, 27, 29, 30), (32, 35, 35, 37, 38) sts each. All sizes:

Row 4 (WS): as row 2. Sizes L1 to XL2 only: Repeat Rows 1-4 one more time. Size XXL only: Repeat Rows 1-4 three more times. Size XXXL only: Repeat Rows 1-4 four more times. Your fronts should have 20 (22, 22, 22, 24, 25), (27, 29, 29, 31, 32) sts each. All Sizes: Row 5 (RS): as row 1. Row 6 (WS): *purl to marker, slipm, purl to central 8/10 sts, k1, purl 6/8 sts, k1, purl to marker, slipm,* repeat * one more time, purl to the end. Row 7 (RS): as row 3. Row 8 (WS): as row 6. Sizes XS to S2 only: Repeat Rows 5-8 three more times. Sizes M1 to L2 only: Repeat Rows 5-8 four more times.

Repeat Rows 7 and 8 until your sleeves have 52 (54, 54, 54, 56, 58), (62, 62, 66, 74, 80) sts. End with the WS row. You will be shaping underarms next. Sleeve increases stop.

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Underarm Shaping:
Row 1 (RS): *knit to 1 stitch before marker, dliR or M1R, k1, slipm, knit to marker and work cables, slipm, k1, dliL or M1L*, repeat * one more time, knit to the end. 4 sts added. Row 2 (WS): purl purls and knit knits. Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7), (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) more times. You should have added 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8), (8, 9, 9, 10, 11) sts to each front and double that for the back. Your stitch count should be: Size XS S1 S2 M1 M2 L1 L2 XL1 XL2 XXL XXXL Left Front 30 32 32 34 36 38 38 44 44 47 49 Left Sleeve 52 54 54 54 56 58 62 62 66 74 80 Back 78 82 84 86 90 96 102 104 106 110 114 Right Sleeve 52 54 54 54 56 58 62 62 66 74 80 Right Front 30 32 32 34 36 38 38 44 44 47 49

Separate Sleeves:
(RS): You will be separating sleeves and at the same time placing 2 markers to indicate the places for back decreases. Left Front: knit to 1 stitch before the marker, kfab, remove marker, put next 52 (54, 54, 54, 56, 58), (62, 62, 66, 74, 80) sts on waste yarn/stitch holder, remove marker, cast on 7 (8, 10, 10, 11, 12), (14, 14, 19, 21, 25) sts, Back: kfab, knit 25 (26, 27, 28, 29, 31), (33, 34, 34, 36, 37) sts, pm, knit 26 (28, 28, 28, 30, 32), (34, 34, 36, 36, 38), pm, knit 25 (26, 27, 28, 29, 31), (33, 34, 34, 36, 37), kfab; Right Front: remove marker, put next 52 (54, 54, 54, 56, 58), (62, 62, 66, 74, 80) sts on waste yarn/stitch holder, cast on 7 (8, 10, 10, 11, 12), (14, 14, 19, 21, 25) sts, kfab, knit to the end. Total stitch count should be 156 (166, 172, 178, 188, 200), (210, 224, 236, 250, 266) sts.

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Body:
(WS): purl Row 1 (RS): knit to 3 sts before second marker, skp, k1, slipm, k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before 3rd marker, skp, k1, slipm, k1, k2tog, knit to the end (4 sts decreased at the back). Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 (WS): purl Rows 3, 5, 7 (RS): knit Repeat Rows 1-8: three more times. Remove markers. Work in stockinette till your work measures 5.5 (5.5, 5.75, 6, 6, 6), (6.25, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.75) inches from the underarm or till your work sits about 1-1.5 inches above your waistline (narrowest part of your body). The weight of the finished garment will pull this point to your waistline or slightly below.

All sizes Set up:


Row 1 (RS): this row is counted as row 1 for left front and back, follow the instructions for each individual section given below. Left Front: knit first 35 (36, 36, 40, 43, 45), (46, 52, 54, 58, 63) sts and then put them on stitch holder/waste yarn. Back: knit across. Right Front: put last 35 (36, 36, 40, 43, 45), (46, 52, 54, 58, 63) sts on stitch holder/waste yarn. You will be working on back stitches first.

All sizes Back:


Row 2, 4, 6, 8 (WS): purl Rows 3, 5 (RS): knit Row 7 (RS) - increase row: k2, dliR or m1KR, knit to last 2 sts, dliL or m1KL, knit 2. Keep working in stockinette, making an increase on every 8th row till you have worked a total of 57 (59, 59, 59, 59, 65), (65, 69, 69, 69, 69) rows as counted from row 1. You should have ended your work with the RS. Note: if you want to add or subtract length from the cardigan, then you knit more or less rows respectively. For example, if you want the length to be longer by 2 inches, then you knit for 14 rows more than from what is stated for your size above. Put sts on holder/waste yarn. DO NOT cut yarn.

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All sizes Right Front:


Row 1 (RS): with RS facing you and yarn still attached to the back piece, pick up and knit 44 (45, 45, 45, 45, 50), (50, 53, 53, 53, 53) sts along the side, then knit across 35 (36, 36, 40, 43, 45), (46, 52, 54, 58, 63) sts from stitch holder/waste yarn. Note 1: the rate to pick up sts works out to be roughly 3 sts for every 4 rows. Note 2: if you have added or subtracted from the cardigans length, then you need to adjust how many sts you pick up (5 sts more or less for every inch added or subtracted respectively). Row 2 (WS): purl Work in stockinette stitch (knit on the RS and purl on the WS) till you have worked a total of 57 (59, 59, 59, 59, 65), (65, 69, 69, 69, 69) rows as counted from row 1. You should have ended your work with the RS. Put sts on holder/waste yarn. DO NOT cut yarn. You will be starting front edging with this yarn.

All sizes Left Front:


Row 1 (RS): With RS facing you, place 35 (36, 36, 40, 43, 45), (46, 52, 54, 58, 63) sts from stitch holder/waste yarn onto the right hand needle, attach yarn at the last stitch worked. Then pick up 44 (45, 45, 45, 45, 50), (50, 53, 53, 53) sts along the left back flap. Note 1: the rate to pick up sts works out to be roughly 3 sts for every 4 rows. Note 2: if you have added or subtracted from the cardigans length, then you need to adjust how many sts you pick up (5 sts more or less for every inch added or subtracted respectively). Row 2 (WS): purl Work in stockinette stitch (knit on the RS and purl on the WS) till you have worked a total of 57 (59, 59, 59, 59, 65), (65, 69, 69, 69, 69) rows as counted from row 1. You should have ended your work with the RS. Put sts on holder/waste yarn. Cut yarn.

Front Edging:
Using smaller sized needles, the yarn held there from the right front flap and starting from the bottom right corner pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows all around the right front, 3 out of 4 sts around the neck line, and around the left front to the opposite corner from where you started. Row 1 (WS): knit Row 2 (RS): knit
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Repeat these two rows for 4 more times. Then repeat Row 1 only. Bind off knitwise loosely. DO NOT cut yarn, you will be using it to work hem edging next.

Hem Edging:
Using smaller sized needles, with RS facing you and starting from the front left corner, pick up and knit stitches from the front edging, then knit all the live stitches that you have on the left front, place marker, pick up and knit every 3 sts for every 4 rows towards the back piece, knit live stitches at the back, then pick up and knit every 3 sts for every 4 rows towards the live sts at the right front, place marker, then knit those stitches, end with picking up and knitting front edge stitches at the opposite end from where you started. Row 1 (WS): *knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, slipm, kfb*, repeat * one more time, knit to the end of the row. Row 2 (RS): knit Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 4 more times, then repeat row 1 only. Bind off knitwise loosely.

Sleeves:
Transfer 52 (54, 54, 54, 56, 58), (62, 62, 66, 74, 80) sts from holder/waste yarn to 30 or 40 cm circular needles or dpns. Attach yarn, and pick up and knit 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7), (7, 9, 11, 12, 13) sts, pm, pick up and knit another 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7), (7, 9, 11, 12, 13) sts, join for knitting in the round. Pattern to 3 sts before the marker, skp, k1, slipm, k1, k2tog, pattern to the marker. You should have 60 (62, 62, 64, 66, 68), (74, 78, 86, 96, 104) sts on the needles. Rnd 1: work in pattern. Rnd 2 decrease rnd: k1, k2tog, pattern to the last 3 sts before marker, skp, k1 Sizes XS to L2 only: Repeat these 2 rnds two more times, 6 sts decreased. Sizes XL1 to XXXL only: Repeat these 2 rnds three more times, 8 sts decreased. Stitch count should be 54 (56, 56, 58, 60, 62), (68, 70, 78, 88, 96) sts. Rnds 1-8: work in pattern. Rnd 9 decrease rnd: k1, k2tog, pattern to the last 3 sts before marker, skp, k1. Repeat rnds 1-9 for 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6), (6, 6, 7, 7, 7) more times. Sleeve should measure about 9.5 (9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 9.5), (9.5, 10, 11, 11, 11) inches long as measured from the underarm. Stitch count should be 40 (42, 42, 44, 46, 48), (54, 56, 62, 72, 80) sts It is best if you end right with the cable crossing at this point or no more than two rnds after it. If you have to knit a few more or a few less rnds to get to this point, you should do so.
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Sleeve increases/ Flared Cuff:


Rnd 1: knit to 1 sts before center sleeve (for example, if your sleeve has 40 sts, then knit 19 sts), kfb, pm , kfb, knit to the end of the rnd. Rnd 2: knit Rnd 3: knit to 1 sts before center sleeve, kfb, slipm, kfb, knit to the end of the rnd. Repeat rnds 2 and 3 eight (8) more times. Next rnd: purl. Repeat rnd 3. Next rnd: purl. Bind off knitwise. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Garter Cuff:
Rnd 1: purl Rnd 2: knit Repeat these 2 rnds one more time. Then repeat Rnds 1 only. Bind off knitwise.

Finishing Touches:
1. Weave in any loose ends. 2. Block. 3. Wear and enjoy.

~ References ~
Directional Lifted Increases:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnrV0Uf2cLk&NR=1

How to pick up stitches along the edge:


http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter04/FEATwin04TT.html

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~ Copyright ~
Please respect my designer rights, and as such the copyright of this pattern will always remain with me. I am providing this pattern for personal home use only. You may make garments from it as gifts or donate to charities and fundraisers. Commercial use of this pattern is a violation of the copyright. Selling products made from this pattern or distributing this pattern in any manner is prohibited under the copyright unless I, Elena Nodel, have granted express written permission.

~ Acknowledgments ~
Heartfelt thanks and my deepest gratitude go to my wonderful group of testers (Alice, Bec,

Cathy, Donna, Elaine, Eva, Janet, Jenny, Justyna, Heather, Karol, Kelly, Klara, Kristin, Lisa, Maria, Monika, Natalie, Natasha, Paula, Patty, Piksteri, Sandy, Sharine, Tasha, and Valerie), whose hard work and most valuable input made this pattern possible. Special thanks go to Monika and Janet for helping me with the presentation and editing of this pattern, and to Janet for allowing me to use her photographs in the pattern.

~ Contact information ~
Email: elenanodel@gmail.com Ravelry Username: Anadiomena Blog: Knitting Adventures [http://www.anadiomenadesigns.com]

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Left chart is for left sleeve, right chart is for right sleeve.

Elena Nodel 2012