Size: 6 months

Yarn: Big Softie by Sirdar. It’s very soft – 51% wool and 49% acrylic. One ball is just
enough for a pair of UGGs for a 6 month old baby (10 cm sole).
Hook size: 7 mm.
Buttons: 2 heart shaped
Sulan/Sole
Hela tofflan virkas runt, runt och med fm.

Chain 6
Row 1: 5 sc Do not turn but continue around the short side: ch 1, 1 sc in same stitch as the last
sc, ch 1 and yet 1 sc in same stitch as last sc, 4 sc, ch 1, 1 sc in same stitch as the last sc, ch 1 =
17 st
Row 2: 1 sc in same stitch as the last sc, 5 sc, 1 sc in same stitch as the last sc (= first corner), 2
sc, 1 sc in same stitch as the last sc (= second corner), 6 sc, 1 sc in same stitch as the last sc (=
third corner), 2 sc, 1 sc in same stitch as the last sc (= fourth corner) = 21 st
Row 3: 8 sc, 1 sc in same stitch as the last sc, 3 sc, 1 sc in same stitch as the last sc, 7 sc, 1 sc in
same stitch as the last sc, 4 sc = 24 st
Insert a marker in the stitch you have around your hook so you know where your rows begin.

Row 4: 24 sc in the back loop
Row 5: 24 sc
Row 6: 4 sc, *decrease 1 st – see photo* repeat from * 3 more times (Be sure to tighten
the yarn not to make any holes.), 12 sc = 20 st
Row 7: 4 sc, *decrease 1 st – see photo* repeat from * 1 more time, 12 sc = 18 st
Row 8: 5 sc, decrease 1 st – see photo, 11 sc = 17 st
Row 9-11: 17 sc
Row 12: To prevent the boot shaft to look shorter in the front, continue with 8 sc. Finish
with 1 sl.

Chain 18
17 sc, 1 sc in same stitch as the last sc, 1 sc, 1 sc in same stitch as the last sc, 17 sc, 1 sc in same
stitch as the last sc. Finish with 1 sl.

One of the ends of the strap is sewn on the back of the bootie, at the edge of the shaft.
The other end is sewn on between row 4 and 5 of the bootie shaft (counting from the
sole). Decorate with a button.





No me gusta andar con zapatos. Ni siquiera con calcetines. Pero en Santiago ha estado haciendo tanto frío, que ya
es hora de ponerme algo en los pies. Así que hice estas pantuflas a crochet y aquí está el patrón.
Cómo tejer pantuflas a crochet
La punta de estas zapatillas de levantarse están tejidas circularmente, de forma similar a cómo se tejen los gorros o
los amigurumis. Una vez que se llega a la apertura del empeine, se trabaja en plano hasta lograr el largo del pie. Esa
sección se cose por el talón para que la pantufla tome forma, y finalmente se teje tubularmente por todo el contorno
para darle más altura al tejido.
El ancho de la pantufla puede adaptarse haciendo más o menos filas de aumento al comienzo, o poniendo o restando
uno o dos puntos en la primera fila en lugar de los ocho que indica el patrón. Si quieres hacerla más larga o más
corta, entonces haz más o menos filas en la parte que se teje recta.
Materiales
4 ovillos de diferentes colores de Pepita de Lanas Nahum.
Un crochet de 3mm.
Cambios de color
Antes de terminar cada fila debes cambiar de color en el último punto alto que se comienza de forma normal, pero se
termina con el nuevo tono. Estos son los pasos del último punto:
Haz una lazada, pasa el crochet por el punto anterior, haz otra lazada y cierra las dos vueltas que hay en el crochet.
Las últimas dos vueltas, en lugar de cerrarlas con el primer color, se cierran con el otro hilo.

Instrucciones
Fila 1: haz un anillo mágico con 8 puntos altos. Cambia de color y cierra la fila uniendo el último y el primer punto con
un punto raso.
Fila 2: 2 cadenetas, 1 aumento (dos puntos altos sobre el mismo punto), *1 punto alto, 1 aumento. Repite desde *
hasta el final. Cambia de color y une con un punto raso.
Fila 3: 1 cadenetas, 1 punto alto, 1 aumento, * 2 puntos altos, 1 aumento. Repite desde * hasta el final. Cambia de
color y une con un punto raso.
Fila 4 -8: punto alto alrededor de toda la fila. Cambia de color y une con un punto raso.
Fila 9: igual que las filas anteriores, pero no cambies de color al final. Une con un punto raso y corta la hebra.
Fila 10: ahora comienza la parte recta que corresponde a la planta y los costados del pie. Como en las uniones de
las filas los puntos no se ven prolijos, debes dejar esa sección en la base del pie. Para eso ubica el primer punto de la
fila anterior y cuenta 9 puntos hacia la izquiera. En ese punto haz dos cadenetas y luego trabaja 17 puntos altos.
Fila 11 y más allá: haz 2 cadenetas y 17 puntos altos. Repite tantas filas como te sean necesarias hasta que el largo
de la zapatilla esté a dos dedos del borde de tu talón.
Última fila: haz dos cadenetas, 6 puntos altos, dos disminuciones, 7 puntos altos.
Ahora dobla la parte recta hacia afuera y une las mitades del borde superior con puntos rasos hechos en el interior
para cerrar la pantufla. Corta el hilo.

Para hacer el borde que le da altura al tejido une una nueva hebra sobre la fila en que está la costura del talón. Haz
dos cadenetas y trabaja puntos altos por todo el borde hasta llegar a un punto antes de la esquina. Haz
una disminución doble, 3 puntos altos, otra disminución doble y continúa con puntos altos hasta el final. Une con un
punto raso, sin cortar la hebra.
Así se ve la disminución doble antes de cerrar los puntos:

Fila siguiente: 2 cadenetas, una disminución, puntos altos hasta un punto antes de la disminución anterior, una
disminución doble, un punto alto, una disminución doble, puntos altos hasta dos puntos antes del final, una
disminución. Une con un punto raso.
Fila final: haz un punto bajo en cada uno de los puntos de la fila anterior. Une con un punto raso y remata las hebras.






Instrucciones
Base: cadeneta de 6 puntos. Une con un punto raso para formar un anillo.
Fila 1 3 cadenetas, 1 punto alto (o vareta), 1 cadeneta, *2 puntos altos, 1 cadeneta*. Repite hasta tener 6 grupos de
2 puntos altos y 1 cadeneta. Une con la tercera cadeneta del principio con un punto raso. Corta el hilo.
Fila 2 Cambia el color, empezando en uno de los espacios entre dos grupos de puntos altos. 5 cadenetas, 2 punto
altos en el mismo espacio, *1 cadeneta, 2 puntos altos, 2 cadenetas, 2 puntos altos* en cada espacio. Un punto alto
en el espacio del principio, une con la tercera cadeneta.
Fila 3 1 punto raso en el espacio de 2 cadenetas, 3 cadenetas y 6 puntos altos en el mismo espacio, 1 cadeneta. *7
puntos altos y 1 cadeneta en cada espacio* Une con la tercera cadeneta, corta el hilo.
Fila 4 Cambia el color, 1 cadeneta. Haz un punto bajo en todos los puntos y un punto bajo alargado que llegue
hasta el espacio de la fila 2 entre cada pétalo.Une y corta el hilo.
Fila 5 Cambia el color. 3 cadenetas, 3 puntos altos, 1 cadeneta, *1 punto alto en el mismo espacio del anterior, 3
puntos altos, 1 cadeneta, sáltate el punto alargado, 4 puntos altos, 1 cadeneta* Repite hasta el final, une los
extremos, corta el hilo y remata.




Crochet Slippers
4.5 mm (7) for slipper body 5.00mm (H) for slipper edging
With color of your choice, ch 2
R1:5 HDC in 2nd ch from hook (5)
R2:2 HDC in each st around (10)
R3: 2 HDC in each st around (20)
R4: *1HDC, 2 HDC in next st* repeat 10 times (30)
R5-10: HDC around (30)
If you want to make a two tone slipper change color at beginning of R7.
R11:Now, you're going to be working back and forth in ROWS. Ch 3, DC in second st from hook and continue until
you have 21 stitches, leaving 8unworked. Ch 3, turn.
R12-20: Repeat R11
R21-22: Ch 3, DC in same st, DC to the end, ch3 turn.
Fasten off and sew together by fold the end in half . Make sure it’s turned with the seam facing inward.. Attach new
yarn at the top edge of the slipper
Ch 2, *sc in next st, ch 1* continue this pattern along the egde of your slipper. Fasten off.

That's it! I must note these slippers are made to fit my feet. In order to adjust the slippers to your shoe size, change the
number of rounds 5-10 (increase the st for example) and 12-21 (adjust the length).

Mini Heart
3.00 mm (D/E)
With color of your choice, ch 2
R1: sc 6 times in 2nd ch from hook (6)
R2: sc twice in each st (12)
R 3: * sc twice in next st, sc in next st. Repeat from * 5 times (18)
You will join the two pieces that you just crocheted together.
R4: Join new strand of yarn. Sc in each st of the last round of piece 1. Without
cutting or turning, sc in each st of the last round of piece 2. (36)
R5-7: sc in each st (36)
R8: *scdec, sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * 5 times (30)
R9: *scdec, sc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * 5 times (24)
R10: *scdec, sc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * 5 times (18)
Start stuffing your heart.
R11:*scdec, sc in next 1 st. Repeat from * 5 times (12)
R12:*scdec. Repeat from * 5 times (6)
Fasten off and sew closed! Admire your little heart.


Slipper's sole tutorial





Scrivo lo schema delle suole delle mie pantofole, in inglese, no, non è che io sia diventata così brava nelle lingue
straniere, è che, non sapendo da dove partire, ho preso uno schema inglese e ho messo i miei valori.
Ora sto ridendo...ho usato la parola valori, tipico termine scientifico!!! Il fisico che è in me ogni tanto si fa
sentire!!!

Ecco la legenda, per noi italiane:
st = punto
sl = maglia bassissima
sc = maglia bassa
hdc = mezza maglia alta
dc = maglia alta

Nota bene che è lo stesso schema che ho usato per le slippers verdi, solo che per quelle ho fatto qualche
giro in più e ho usato la maglia alta al posto della mezza maglia alta e la mezza maglia alta al posto della
maglia bassa.


State pure tranquille che se manca qualche punto o ne avanza qualcuno non succede niente: per ogni paio
di pantofole servono 4 suole e a me non ne sono mai venute 2 identiche!!!
Ricordate che per un fisico conta l'ordine di grandezza, non sono mica un chimico!!!
Sentitevi libere di aggiungere qualche aumento nella parte laterale della punta, la cosa importante è che la
suola sia bella tonda sul davanti e non troppo affusolata!!!

Scriverò presto anche il tutorial per il top... siate fiduciose...

SIZES
Kid's shoe lenght: 18 cm, (22 cm).

Size 3.5 mm crochet hook

INSTRUCTIONS
The instructions are written for
smallest size. If changes are necessary
for larger sizes the instructions will be
written thus ( ).

SOLE
ch 24 (30)

1st rnd: (RS). 1 hdc in 4th ch from hook.
1 hdc in each of next 11 (16), 1 dc in each of next 8 (9)
ch.
5 dc in last ch.
Working into rem loop on opposite side of foundation ch,
1 dc in each of next 8 (9),1 hdc in each of next 11 (16).
3 hdc in last ch.
Join with sl st to top of ch 3.
(47sc-59sc)

2nd rnd: Ch 2. 1 hdc in same sp as last
sl st. 2 hdc in next hdc.
1 hdc in each of next 11 (15) hdc, 1 dc in each of next 7 (9) dc.
2 dc in each of next 5 dc.
1 dc in each of next 7 (9) dc,1 hdc in each of next 12 (17) hdc.
2 hdc in each of last 3 hdc.
Join with sl st to top of ch 2.
(56sc-68sc)

3rd rnd: Ch 3. 1 dc in same sp as last sl st.
2 dc in each of next 2 hdc.
1 dc in each of next 4 (5) hdc.
1 hdc in each of next 3 (5) hdc.
1 sc in each of next 7 (8) dc.
1 hdc in each of next 4 (6) dc.
2 hdc in each of next 10 (11) dc.
1 hdc in each of next 5 (6) dc.
1 sc in each of next 8 (9) dc.
1 hdc in each of next 3 (5) hdc.
1 dc in each of next 4 (5) hdc.
2 dc in each of next 6 dc.
Join with sl st to top of ch 3.
(73sc-86sc)


4th rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp as last sl st.
1 sc in each of next 17 (20) st.
1 hdc in each of next 32 (40) st.
1 sc in each of next 23 (27) st.
Join with sl st to top of ch 1.
(73sc-86sc)

5th rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp as last sl st.
1 sc in each of next 18 (23) st.
(2 hdc in the same hdc, 4 hdc) for 6 (7) times.
2 hdc in the same st.
sc to the end .
Join with sl st to top of ch 1.

6th rnd: only for bigger size.
Repeat round 5.



Crochet Pattern: Easy Adjustable Slippers
By Rachel Choi – 131 Comments
Update: Please see the Easy Adjustable Slippers Version 2 for the new and improved updated
version of this pattern, along with step by step photos for visual learners!
This crochet pattern is very versatile since you can create
different slipper styles just from this one pattern. Using the easy
adjustable slipper pattern you can crochet slippers for everyone
in the family, whether they are for men, boys, women, girls or
even babies. The original pattern is written for size 6 women, but
this pattern is meant to be altered to fit anyone. Just follow the
simple instructions to alter the size and style of your slippers.

Skill Level:

Finished Size: Any size you want it!
Following the exact round and row count given: 4” (10 cm) wide, 9” (23 cm) long, fitting approximately
a women’s size 6
Materials:
Medium Weight Yarn
Crochet Hook G (4.00 mm)
Yarn Needle
Measuring Tape or Size Chart

Scissors
Gauge: not important. For best fit, measure foot size and follow instructions for altering slipper.
Need help understanding the abbreviations? Check out the crochet abbreviationchart.
Crochet Pattern: Slipper
Note: Round 1 – 8 starts the toe of the slipper by creating a circle. For best fit, make sure that the
diameter of the circle is slightly smaller than the width of the wearer’s foot. To adjust the circle size,
simply add or subtract rounds as needed.
Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, place marker: 6 sc
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around: 12 sc
Round 3: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around: 18 sc
Round 4: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around: 24 sc
Round 5: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) around: 30 sc
Round 6: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) around: 36 sc
Round 7: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) around: 42 sc
Round 8: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) around: 48 sc
Continue increasing the circle until the diameter is slightly smaller than the width of the wearer’s foot.
Note: Round 9 – 27 creates the front/toe of the slipper. You may choose to make this portion as long
or short as you desire. To adjust length add or subtract rounds as needed. The length of the slipper
upon completion of these rounds should not go pass the ankle of the wearer’s foot.
Round 9 – 27: sc in each sc around: 48 sc
Continue until the desired length of the front of the slipper is obtained.
Note: Row 28 establishes the length of the two sides plus the bottom of the slipper. The length of this
row should be greater than the diameter of the slipper. 30 single crochets is the recommended length
that is used in this example. You may increase or decrease the number of single crochets made to
better fit your slipper size.
Row 28: sc in next 30 sc: 30 sc
Note: Row 29 – 43 creates the rest of the slipper, which includes heal and back of foot. Upon
completing this set of rows your slipper should exactly reach the back of the wearer’s ankle. Increase
or decrease the number of rows as you see necessary.
Row 29 – 43: ch 1, turn, sc in next 30 sc: 30 sc
Finish off. With yarn needle, sew back of slipper together.
If you need help with crocheting slippers, feel free to leave a comment!



Knitting slippers & socks tutorial
knitting, Slippers, tutorial | January 14
th
2012 | 0 Comment

Knitting slippers or socks tutorial


There are a variety of weave floor socks, but I think this is very simple weave, woven with good results, so we introduced to the
present size 36-37 shoe size number, if necessary, to master the method can be adjusted.
First, the needles, 14 pairs, 28 needle, the needle around the sets of needles, easy to pick the needle.

Second, the increase in the side of the pin, plus a needle every row, that is positive and needle, the opposite without, plus 4 pin,
one side is the right angle, one side is rounded

Third, a total of 76 lines weaving, 38 flower (a flower 2 lines), and then add the side of the needle by needle, but also across the
line by a needle, by needle positive, negative reduced, by 4-pin, pin side of the symmetrical processing then the needle from the
needle side to pick 28 the sides of the sets are put on the needle, the needle 56.

Fourth, both sides of the pin connector into the round, as the socks by the side surface of the needle was in the center.

Fifth, surface in socks, socks at the end of all is the needle, weave line 42, line 2 twist on the open cross, so socks Koujin. at the
end of

Sixth, by needle tip socks, stockings before and after the separation of symmetry, the left and right sides, a pair of needle subject
line of symmetry of each House by two-pin, into trapezoidal figure is the tip side of the socks.

Seven toes together pin, two pin one pin, lock side, turn over, lock in the opposite

Eight, the exposed bottom of the mouth, with stitches

Woven socks on the floor so well, give it a try, there will be harvested.



Read more: http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_4e2b53df0100bhun.html



1. 1
R1: Ch 2, 6 HDC in second ch from hook. (6)
R2: 2 HDC in each sc around. (12)pictured
2. 2
R3: HDC 1, 2 HDC in next sc, rep 6 times. (18)
R4: HDC 2, 2 HDC in next sc, rep 6 times. (24)
R5: HDC 3, 2 HDC in next sc, rep 6 times (30)pictured
3. 3
R6-10: HDC around (30)
R11: Now, you're going to be working back and forth in ROWS. Ch 2, HDC in the same stitch and
continue until you have 21 stitches, leaving 9 unworked. Ch 2, turn.
End of round 10 pictured
4. 4
R11: Now, you're going to be working back and forth in ROWS. Ch 2, HDC in the same stitch and
continue until you have 21 stitches, leaving 9 unworked. Ch 2, turn.
5. 5
R12-R25: Change color (pink) at R13 and continue as R11
Round 15 pictured
6. 6
R26: Seam up the heel by putting the right sides together and slip-stitching from the top down to the
bottom of the heel.
7. 7
Slipper up to this point.
8. 8
Now, in order to make your slipper more snug join your yarn at the center back of the slipper, above the
heel.Sc into that same spot.
You’re going to be working down the side of the HDC that make the foot of the slipper. Work sc stitches
down the side, til you get to a corner.
At the corner, sc3tog (half of the last side HDC, and the first 2 HDC on the top.
SC into next 5 stitches, sc3tog (last 2 HDC on toe top, and half of the first HDC up the next side ans sc up
the side towards the heel.
SC3TOG pictured
9. 9
I completed the above instructions only once, but I HDC twice around in order to finish.
10. 10
I decided to add some felt balls, but you could anything you want, as buttons, a flower or even a bow!
11. 11
The finished slippers



Women's Crochet Ballet Slippers: Free Pattern
Free pattern for women's crochet ballet slippers/shoes.

Poochie Baby has many other patterns available for free and for
sale at Ravelry, Craftsy and in the Etsy Shop. There are also
versions available in the Kindle store if you prefer to use your
ebook reader.


Women's Crochet Slippers in Pastel

This is a very easy pattern and the shoes stitch up pretty quickly. I love making these in
many different colors and I wear them all the time. These slippers make excellent gifts!

Materials:
I Love This Yarn (from Hobby Lobby)
F Hook (I only use Clover Soft Touch hooks these days!)

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Pattern:
* This pattern is written assuming that you are using the same color throughout. Feel
free to switch colors at any point. It is just a matter of preference. Simply tie off the last
color and join the new color where you wish. (My pictures show slippers made with
more than one color.)

R1 - CH 2 and five SC in the first chain from the hook. Join with a SS.

R2 - CH 2 and 2 DC in each stitch around (10 stitches). Join with a SS.

R3 - CH 2 and 2 DC in each stitch around (20 stitches). Join with a SS.

R4 - CH 2 and 2 DC in the next stitch and DC in the next stitch. Continue with 2 DC in
the next stitch and DC in the next until you reach the end (30 stitches). Join with a SS.

R5 thru R9 - CH 2 and DC in each stitch around. Join with a SS.

R10 - CH 2 and DC in the next 21 stitches (22 stitches, includes the first chain 2).

R11 - CH 2 and DC in each stitch across. CH 2 and turn.

R12 thru R18 - DC in each stitch across. CH 2 and turn.

* This pattern will fit a foot size of about 6 or 7. You can make the slippers larger by
simply adding rows at this point. I believe each row will equal about a half size. So,
for a size 8, add two rows.

R19 - DC in each stitch across.

R20 - CH 1 and working along the top edge of the slipper, SC all the way around the top
edge. This gives the slipper a finished look. Tie off leaving a very long end (it will be
used for sewing the piece together).

Finishing:
Using a tapestry needle, sew the back heel of shoe together with the long end of yarn.
Just weave the yarn through and tie off at the bottom of the heel. Weave in the extra
yarn on the bottom of the shoe with the tapestry needle.

Crochet Slippers in Fall Colors
Poochie Baby has many other patterns available for free and for
sale at Ravelry, Craftsy and in the Etsy Shop. There are also
versions available in the Kindle store if you prefer to use your
ebook reader.





from 10.05 USD in yarn
Miss Piggy by DROPS Design
" - Farm animals on the run!"
Crochet DROPS pig slippers in "Paris".
SmåDROPS 23-46
DROPS design: Pattern no W-031-bn
Yarn group C
--------------------------------------------------------
US: child- child - child - child - woman
6½/8 -9/10½ -11/13 -13½ -5/6½
EU: 23/25 -26/28 -29/31 -32/34 -35/37
To fit foot length: 15-17-18-20-22 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7''-8''-8¾''

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100 g color no 20, light pink
50 g color no 06, shocking pink
Some left-over yarn in black.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 18 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.
All yarns are DROPS yarns. Color charts and updated retailer lists at www.garnstudio.com

Maxprices per 27.02.2014:
Yarn type USA
PARIS UNI COLOUR (50g) 3.35 USD
DROPS Needles & Hooks from 1.90 USD
DROPS Spring & Summer 2014! The patterns are coming online!
We have had an amazing response to the new collection, and we are very grateful for your name suggestions, votes
and comments, they have weighed heavily in the selection of the final designs. The DROPS team is working full time
proofreading and translating, so the patterns will be published here as soon as they are ready! Find the DROPS Spring
& Summer 2014 Collection here! Find all handmade gifts for Valentine's Day here ♥ The DROPS knitting and crochet
experts are also working full time making new tutorial videos for this new collection! The videos show how to work the
techniques used on the patterns. You will find the videos related to each pattern in the “Videos” tab, to the right of the
picture.


Do you need help? Take a look at our video tutorials at www.garnstudio.com/lang/us/video.php
Crochet pieces together
Crochet sc (US)/ dc (UK) in the round
Decrease - crochet sts
Increase - single (2 in 1)
Magic circle crochet loop
Single crochet, sc (US) / Double crochet , dc (UK)

MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid holes in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the
yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle
finger, place the thread over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull thread through loop,
work ch 1, then work sc around the loop. When the desired no of sc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten
the loop. Fasten the yarn end at the back.

ROUNDS WITH SC:
Beg every sc round with ch 1, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc by working 2 sc in next sc.

SC-ROW:
Beg every sc-row with 1 ch (not counted as 1st sc), 1 sc in every sc the entire row, turn.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 sc by working 2 sc tog as follows: * Insert hook in next sc, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a
YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last sc on the round, continue to next round with 1 sc in next sc (= first sc from previous round). NOTE: Insert a
marker at the beg of round between last sc and first sc on the round, move the marker upwards when working.
--------------------------------------------------------

PIG SLIPPERS:
Worked first in the round and then back and forth. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - at the
edge of toe with light pink on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7.
ROUND 1: Work 7-7-7-8-8 sc in the magic circle, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc. Then work ROUNDS WITH SC - read
explanation above.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 sc in every sc - READ INCREASE TIP = 14-14-14-16-16 sc.
ROUND 3: Work 1 sc in every sc - AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-6-8-8-8 sts evenly on round = 18-20-22-24-24 sc.
ROUND 4: Work 1 sc in every sc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 sc in every sc - AT THE SAME TIME inc 8 sts evenly on round = 26-28-30-32-32 sc.
ROUND 6: Work 1 sc in every sc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 sc in every sc - AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts evenly on round = 30-32-34-36-36 sc.
Then work 1 sc in every sc until piece measures approx. 7½-8½-9-10-11 cm / 2 7/8"-3 1/4"-3½"-4"-4 3/8". When
the last sc on round has been worked, do not work sl st in 1st sc but continue with 1 sc in each of the next 10-10-11-
12-12 sc (= 1st row from RS), turn piece and work 1 sc in each of the next 20-20-22-24-24 sc from WS (= 10-12-
12-12-12 sc remain mid front of slipper, now beg of round from earlier is under the sole). Then work SC-ROW - read
explanation above - back and forth with 20-20-22-24-24 sc on every row. When piece measures approx. 14½-16½-
17½-19½-21½ cm / 5 3/4"-6½"-6 7/8"-7 3/4"-8½" work next row from RS as follows:
ROW 1: Work 6-6-7-8-8 sc, dec 2 sc over the next 4 sc - READ DECREASE TIP = 8-8-9-10-10 sc, turn (10-10-11-12-
12 sc remain on other side of row).
ROW 2: Dec 2 sc over the first 4 sc, 1 sc in every sc the entire row = 6-6-7-8-8 sc, turn.
ROW 3: Work 2-2-3-4-4 sc, dec 2 sc over the last 4 sc = 4-4-5-6-6 sc.
ROW 4: Dec 1-1-1-2-2 sc over the first 2-2-2-4-4 sc, 1 sc in every sc the entire row = 3-3-4-4-4 sc, cut and fasten
the thread.
Work over the remaining 10-10-11-12-12 sc on the other side as follows:
ROW 1: Dec 2 sc over the first 4 sc, 1 sc in every sc the entire row = 8-8-9-10-10 sc, turn.
ROW 2: Work 4-4-5-6-6 sc, dec 2 sc over the last 4 sc = 6-6-7-8-8 sc, turn.
ROW 3: Dec 2 sc over the first 4 sc, 1 sc in every sc the entire row = 4-4-5-6-6 sc.
ROW 4: Dec 1-1-1-2-2 sc over the last 2-2-2-4-4 sc = 3-3-4-4-4 sc, cut and fasten the thread.
Sew seam mid back of slipper.
Start mid back on slipper, crochet from RS one round with sc around the entire opening. Over the rows in the sides
work as follows: Work 1 sc in every row along the sides, and 1 sc in every sc at the front of slipper - in 1st corner at
the front work as follows: * Insert hook in the last sc from rows, get the thread, pull hook in the 1st sc from front part
of slipper, get the thread, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook *. Repeat from *-* in 2nd corner at the
front but reversed. Finish round with 1 sl st in 1st sc. Then work 1 round with sc, cut and fasten the thread.

EAR:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE with shocking pink on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7.
ROUND 1: Work 4 sc in the magic circle - NOTE: Do not work sl st in 1st sc, READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE!
ROUND 2: Inc 1 sc in every sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, inc 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sc.
ROUND 4-5: Work 1 sc in every sc, cut and fasten the thread. Work another ear the same way.

SNOUTE:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE with shocking pink on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7.
ROUND 1: Work 6 sc in the magic circle.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3-5: Work 1 sc in every sc, cut and fasten the thread.

TAIL:
Ch 9 with shocking pink, then work 1 sl st in 2nd ch from hook, * ch 1, 1 sl st in next ch *, repeat from *-*, finish with
1 sl st in the last ch, cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Place the ears flat and sew them to each side of slipper. Embroider eyes with black, sew snout and tail on to the
slipper.




THE PATTERN
GAUGE
8 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch (See our Circular Gauge Tutorial for tips on knitting an
accurate gauge for in-the-round projects.)
FINISHED SIZE
Fit most women: 7 1/2 inches in circumference and adjustable length
NOTE
The how-to photos in this pattern are from our original Pom Pom Peds post which used a yarn
that is no longer available. So, don't mind the unexpected color!
THE CUFF
With the Contrast Color, cast on 60 stitches to three double pointed needles.
Round 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 five more times.
Change to the Main Color and knit 3 rounds.
THE HEEL FLAP
Knit 15 stitches and turn the work so the purl side of the fabric is facing you.

Purl 30 stitches. (The 30 stitches that you just purled are the beginning of the heel flap. For
this section, you will be working back and forth on just these 30 stitches.)
Arrange the stitches so that the 30 heel flap stitches are on one needle. Put the remaining
stitches on hold on two needles (15 stitches each).

(Again, work the following rows back and forth, turning the work between each row.)
Row 1 (right side): *Slip 1 purlwise, k1, repeat from * to end of 30 stitches.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, purl to end of 30 stitches.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 fifteen more times.

TURNING THE HEEL
Still just working the heel flap stitches:
Row 1 (right side): K17, ssk, k1, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you and there are 19
stitches on the left needle and 10 stitches on the right needle.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, p5, p2tog, p1, turn the work. (18 stitches on the left
needle and 10 stitches on the right needle)
Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise, knit to 1 stitch before the gap, ssk (with the stitch before the gap and
the stitch after the gap), k1, turn.
Here's the so-called "gap":

Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all the heel stitches have been worked and 18 stitches remain on
the needle.
Magic!:

THE GUSSET
Knit across the 18 heel stitches.
With the same needle (now called "needle #1"), pick up 17 stitches along the heel flap. (35
stitches)

With a new needle (needle #2), knit across the 30 stitches that have been on hold.

With a new needle (needle #3), pick up 17 stitches along the other side of the heel flap.

Still with needle #3, knit 9 stitches from needle #1.
Now there are 26 stitches on needle #1, 30 stitches on needle #2, and 26 stitches on needle
#3. Needle #1 is the beginning of the round (at the middle of the heel).

Round 1: Needle #1 - knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #2 - knit all the stitches. Needle
#3 - k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 60 total stitches remain (15 stitches on Needle #1, 30 stitches on
Needle #2, and 15 stitches on Needle #3).

THE FOOT
Maintaining 15 stitches on Needles #1 and #3 and 30 stitches on Needle #2, knit evenly until
the piece measures 2 inches less than the desired final length, measuring from the back edge
of the heel.

Here's a guideline for final sock lengths:
US size 6 shoe (European 37) = 9 inches
US size 7 shoe (38) = 9 1/4 inches
US size 8 shoe (39) = 9 5/8 inches
US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches
I'm making socks to fit a size 7 shoe, so I knit the foot until it measures 7 1/4 inches (9 1/4
inches - 2 inches).
THE TOE
Round 1: Needle #1 - knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #2 - K1, ssk, knit to last 3
stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #3 - k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 32 total stitches remain.
Then, repeat Round 1 until 12 total stitches remain.
With Needle #3, knit the 3 stitches from Needle #1 so that there are 6 stitches on each of two
needles.

Use the Kitchener Stitch to close the toe.

THE POM POMS
I used the Susan Bates Pom Pom Maker to make the smallest size pom poms. (Please visit
our Pom Pom Tutorial if you need help with your pom pom maker.)

When you tie the pom pom in half leave generous tails so that you can use them to sew the
pom pom to the top back of the ped. Bring the tails to the inside of the ped, tie a knot (yes, a
knot!), and very thoroughly weave the ends in to the cuff.

Now switch the colors and make another pair!