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ThE ESSENTIAL MADRID lifestyle magazine

european vibe

evNo. 36 NOV ’09

a-muse me
El Clásico

Depeche Mode Marilyn
Manson Courting The
Bull Murcia Florence Plus!
looking for eric 2012
World cup playoffs
All Blacks tour A day
in the life: of a first
year American teacher
ou nt
sc de
Di Stu
3 rd CORNER STORE | Plaza del Carmen 3
28013 Madrid | Tel.: +34 - 915233396

European Vibe Entertainment
Fernando el Católico 63, local 1
contents Don’t stay in
28015 Madrid The clocks have gone back, the nights are getting
darker and colder, but you can’t take refuge in
Enquiries bars and clubs every single night, can you? Some
Tel: 91 549 7711 Fax: 91 549 7711 time you’re going to have to stay in, bite the bullet

Email: and watch some spectacularly bad Spanish TV.
Editor Here are some of the horrors that await you:
Luc Ciotkowski Frustrating comedy/drama series in-
Lingo Star Editor variably let down by either woeful script
writing or embarrassingly poor acting (Or
Susana López at least unable to maintain a good level in both script and acting for more than half a season)
Art Editor
Philip McIvor Reality shows whose weekly gala pro-
grammes last about five hours (The good old reality show is a worldwide phenomenon, but
MEDIA & DESIGN following one here means committing one entire
Ferdi Loskamp night out of your week)

16 Heavily politicized news broadcasts (When
Sales Director people trust newspapers more than TV news,
Alan Geegan there’s a problem)
04 WHAT’S ON - Skunk
91 549 7711 Mobile: 689 823 847 Dreadful dubbing into Spanish of English-
Anansie, Camera language films (In which it seems all children
Tomek Przybyszewski Obscura, Depeche Mode are voiced by the same woman doing a ‘Bart
Simpson voice’) & Rammstein Loud interminable commercial breaks with
05 WHAT’S ON - calendar ads made by people who think we’re incred-

Scott Edwards 06 WHAT’S ON - David Bisbal, ibly stupid (You can’t remember what you were
watching anymore, but you can still hear, “Quiero hacer Simple Minds, Juliette caca en el baño de Pablito” as you make a sandwich)
Event Co- Lewis & The Sounds Gossip shows (My pick of the month)
Sam Lee 07 WHAT’S ON - Marilyn The last time I visited my Spanish mother-in-law, Manson, The Prodigy she went to buy bread and came back after 50
minutes. The bakery is at the end of her street.
logistics &
08 Vibes – Muse The “What a queue!” she said upon her return. “What
a lie” we thought. We had had watched her
Rossen Angelov Resistance intermittently through the kitchen window as she 09 dj cosy o’s urban review stopped each time she met someone she knew.
She spent seven to ten minutes talking to each
Repro/Printer Artes Gráficas Hono SL

10 ev website one. “What does she have to talk about for so
November 2009 Depósito legal: M-59116-2006

Matt Johnson long?” I asked my wife. It was gossip.
Magazine and 12 Party Photos As gossiping is officially Spain’s national sport
(dwarfing the number of those who follow football),
blog writers 14 books - Courting The Bull it’s only right that it should have a significant
Peter Moore, Linn Treijs, Ryan Craggs,
Martin Quinn, Helen Macrae, Matt 15 travel Spain – Murcia presence on television. The number of these has
snowballed since the emergence of private TV
Johnson, Andy Ojelade, Charlotte 16 travel Europe - Florence channels at the start of the ‘90s, taking over the
morning programming, swallowing the old children’s
Smith, Adam Ciotkowski & Alice Bell 18 Lingo Star - Survival TV afternoon/early evening slots and incredibly

Cartoon landing Saturday night prime time. Even Spanish
Joe Hodgson Section & El Consultorio Big Brother has it’s own spin-off gossip show.
INTERNS de lingo star These programmes do have some good things –
Sima Kalmens, Verónica Méndez, 19 Lingo Star - Diario de
Charlene Lidyard, Janelle Collins,
viajes, Santiago de they give gossip junkies a constant source of
Eric Rattner & Harriet Rockliff their drug
Compostela they make gossiping a ‘victimless crime’
European WE WANT 20 FILM FIRSt - 2012, because celebrities aren’t real people with

vibe YOU TO
feelings who only exist for our amusement
as there are only 153 people who still
Away With Me & Looking
www.europeanvibeb For Eric
regularly follow bullfighting, top bullfighters
wouldn’t get recognized walking down the
street if it weren’t for these shows
US Send a

500-word article about your
21 new movie releases hairdressers, supermarket checkout assistants
and not-so-successful models who sleep with
barrio in Madrid to editor@ 22 sport – El Clásico & EFL bullfighters, footballers or actresses can get to to get a
writer’s account on our blog!
23 sport – World cup be ‘celebrities’, go on these programmes and
give other hairdressers, supermarket checkout
playoffs & All Blacks assistants and not-so-successful models
something to aspire to and give everyone else
24 culture – A day in the

something to condescend
the ultimate Spanish class – if you can under-
life: of a first year stand everything as three panelists scream
American teacher each other down simultaneously, you have
surpassed many native speakers
26 eat out guide What’s wrong with them then? If you have to ask…
You can vote for your own ‘favourite’ worst thing
Our brand new website 28 bits & pieces & my metro about Spanish TV on our new website. I’ll have to
is online and interactive
like never before. 29 services go now – Sálvame is on in a minute.

Where’s Bully?
91 sales@europeanvibe.
544 1072
If you find the bully logo in one of our
featured adverts, send us an email to and you could
win 2 roundtrip tickets to Dublin from Madrid
courtesy of Aer Lingus. Last month’s winner
was Matthew Reed. Matthew won a 40€ dinner
e-mail: com voucher for Chill Out Caché. Bully was hiding in
the Fabulous advert on page 13. Get searching!

november ’09 3
Madrid agenda compiled in
what’s on? collaboration with esmadrid

Skunk Anansie Camera Obscura
Date: 5 November Date: 8 November
Venue: La Riviera Venue: Sala Heineken
After an eight-year hiatus,
British rock band Skunk Anansie,
led by angsty vocalist Skin, have
reunited and will be playing a
show at La Riviera in Madrid
on 5 November as part of a
tour promoting the group’s new
The London-based band—
consisting of Skin, guitarist
Ace, bassist Cass, and drummer

Mark Richardson—formed in
1994. The name Skunk Anansie
is taken from the arachnid
trickster of West African
folklore, Anansi. The group
added ‘skunk’ to their title to

make the name grittier.
Skunk Anansie gave their
first performance at London’s
Splash Club in March 1994,
highlighting their first single,
Little Baby Swastikkka, The independent heavyweights Camera Obscura released their fourth

which was only available via album, My Maudlin Career, this past April. Mixing sugary harmonies and
mail-order. The debut album, ironic, borderline romantic lyrics, My Maudlin Career is the sonic version
Paranoid and Sunburnt, followed of a sour-patch kid.
soon after, eventually reaching The organ, piano, brass, and guitar create sweet melodies that
#8 on the UK charts. The two singles Feed and Selling Jesus were featured on the soundtrack serve as a backdrop to Campbell’s vulnerable-yet-strong voice. The
of the movie Strange Days. single The Sweetest Thing reminisces of 1950s music while French Navy
In 1996, Skunk Anansie released their second album, Stoosh, which included hit singles combines the hopeless romantic and the sarcastic cynic with lyrics like
Hedonism (Just Because You Feel Good), which reached #14 on the UK singles chart, and “I wanted to control it, but love, I couldn’t hold it.”
Brazen (Weep), which reached #11 on the UK singles chart. Stoosh itself reached #9 on the Formed in 1996, the indie-pop band is made up of Tracyanne
charts and stayed there for 55 weeks. Campbell (lead vocals), Carey Lander (piano), Kenny McKeeve (guitar),
In 1999, the band released Post Orgasmic Chill, which was their last album until this and Gavin Dunbar (bass). Hailing from Glasgow, Scotland, the band is
year’s Smashes and Trashes. In 2001, Skunk Anansie split and the individual members often compared to fellow Scots Belle and Sebastian. The five piece
pursued solo careers, releasing albums and playing with other bands. broke through to the UK Independent Chart with the single I love My
Smashes and Trashes is out this month and its first two singles are Tear the Place Up and Jean and since their last album Let’s Get Out of This Country, fans have
Because of You. Go see the show and reminisce about the Britrock days of the late 20th century. been awaiting Maudlin Career.
Sima Kalmens Verónica Méndez

Depeche Mode Rammstein
Dates: 16 & 17 November Date: 10 November
Venue: Palacio de Deportes Venue: Palacio de Deportes
Since their beginning in the early 1980s, Depeche Mode have become one of the most After a
successful and longest playing bands in history. In their 29-year career, the band have four-year
released 24 albums, featuring the distinct, innovative, and creative techno sound that made break, the
them famous. German band
The band formed in Basildon, England in 1980, but their origins can be traced back to Rammstein
1976, when Vince Clarke (keyboards and chief songwriting before 1981) and Andrew Fletcher released their
(keyboards) formed the band No Romance in China. A few years later, Clarke teamed up with sixth album,
Martin Gore (keyboards, guitar, vocals, and chief songwriting after 1981) and Rob Marlowe to Liebe Ist Fur
form the band The French Look. In 1979, Fletcher replaced Marlowe and the trio Composition Alle Da in
of Sound was born. In 1980, David Gahan (lead vocals) joined the band as a vocalist, and the October. The
quartet changed the band name to Depeche Mode, “hurried fashion” in French. At that time, album’s first
Gore and Fletcher switched their guitars for synthesizers, and the band established their single Pussy
trademark sound. is already
In 1980, while performing locally in London, Depeche Mode captured the interest of causing a
a record executive, who invited the band to record a single for his new label. The single, buzz, as it
Dreaming of Me lead to the was released
release of Depeche Mode’s first through a
album, Speak and Spell. The porn website
album garnered mixed reviews, featuring
but reached #10 on the UK nudity and
Albums Chart. sexual acts.

After the release of Although
Speak and Spell, Clarke left the majority
Depeche Mode, leaving Gore of the songs
as the chief songwriter. Alan are written
Wilder (keyboards and drums) in German, the group has cultivated a huge following since the release of
replaced Clarke. Wilder was their first album, Herzeleid, in 1995. Their second album, Sehnsucht and
with the group until 1995. Live Aus Berlin, earned the group a nomination for the Best Metal Act at
Since 1995, Fletcher, Gore, and the Grammy awards. The band’s next three albums Mutter, Reise, Reise,
Gahan have been performing and Rosenrot and Volkerball, also enjoyed success as they reached the top
as a trio. ten spots in various countries.
Since Speak and Spell, Formed in 1994 in Berlin, the group consists of Till Lindemann
Depeche Mode have released (lead vocals), Richard Z. Kruspe (lead guitar), Pau H. Landers (guitar),
eleven studio albums, as well Ollie Riedel (bass guitar), and Christopher ‘Doom’ Schneider (drums),
as four live albums and eight and Christian ‘Flake’ Lorenz (keyboards). The sextet are best known

compilation albums. The band for their industrial metal sound as well as their controversial videos —
have sold more than 100 most of the band members appear naked in the music video for the
million albums worldwide and single Mann Gegen Mann.
have been a big influence Rammstein’s over-the-top shows have become as notorious as the

on popular bands such as band itself. Lindemann has spent entire songs engulfed in flames, and the
Radiohead, Linkin Park, and group has been known to dress up in fat suits and corsets. The group is
Coldplay. set to come to Madrid on 10 November, outlandish costumes included.
Charlene Lidyard Verónica Méndez

4 november ’09
Madrid agenda compiled in
collaboration with esmadrid what’s on?

Cocktails, mixed
drinks, and lots more!

Santa Teresa 8, Open Thursday,
Friday and
Alonso Martínez, MADRID Saturday from
Alonso Martínez 21:30 to 2am

FOOTBALL Sala Heineken C Princesa 1 (90 215 0025)
RUGBY Joy Eslava C Arenal,11 (913 665 439)
TENNIS Sala El Sol C Jardines 3, Metro: Sol (, 91 532 6490)
Palacio Vistalegre Utebo 1, Metro: Vista Alegre (914 220 781)
Palacio de Deportes Avenida de Felipe II s/n (902 33 22 11)
La Riviera Pº Bajo de la Virgen del Puerto, (, 902 33 22 11)
Moby Dick Avda. de Brasil 5, Metro: Cuzco / Santiago Bernabeu (902 15 00 25)
Sala Caracol C Bernardino Obregón 18 (91 527 3594)
1 Birmingham v Man City 2 3 Atletico
AC Milan v Real Madrid,
Madrid v Chelsea,
4 Arsenal v 5 6 7 Fed Cup final
AZ, Lyon v Liverpool ElPucheroDelHortelano Wales v New Zealand
Man Utd v CSKA Moscow New Model Army Angel Sánchez
Lacrosse +
The Rumble Strips The Honeckers Sala Live! D:A:D Ritmo y Compás Junkyard
Hamel Evangelista Fonseca Skunk Anansie The Metal Experience Medina Azahara

8 Barcelona
Atletico Madrid v Real Madrid,
v Mallorca ,
9 Liverpool v Birmingham 10 11 12 13 World Cup
14 Qualifying
Vilma Y Los Señores Wales v Samoa
Chelsea v Man Utd Combichrist Hardcore Superstar Plushgun La Boite Live Rise Against
The Poodles Buena Fe, Gira Brett Dennen Innata Sala Live! Marillion Hotel Auditorium Soulsavers
Camera Obscura “Del Otro Lado Del Mar” Rammstein Jonas Brothers Black Lips Finntroll Ramdall Music Live

15 16 17 18 Qualifying
World Cup 19 20 21 ManLiverpool v Man City,
Utd v Everton
Baddies Wales v Argentina
Abu Dhabi The Quireboys Basia Bulat Second Alex Ubago MetalHammerTribute
Grand Prix Gov’t Mule Rickie Lee Jones The Pepper Pots Imelda May The Right Ons Maldita Nerea
The Temper Trap Depeche Mode Depeche Mode Simple Minds Yann Tiersen The Sunday Drivers Andrew Bird

22 Athletic
Real Madrid v Racing ,
Bilbao v Barcelona,
23 24 Debrecen
Arsenal v Standard Liege, 25
v Liverpool
Real Madrid v FC Zurich 26 27 28 WestBlackburn v Liverpool,
Ham v Man Utd
Skye Wales v Arg
Deportivo v Atletico Madrid Naive New Beaters + The Horrors Sonata Arctica
Porcupine Tree Ramoncín Flavio Rodriguez Juliette Lewis and Thanksgiving 2009 King Yellowman
La Vela Puerca SixOrgansOfAdmittance David Bisbal The New Romantiques Savia The Sounds Muse
Atletico Madrid v Espanyol, 30
29 Barcelona 1december 2 3 4 5
v Real Madrid Mando Diao Federico Aubele Davis Cup
PJ Hermosilla The Antlers Festival Dimebag Davis Cup
Jimi Jamison Sala Galileo Galilei Antonio Orozco Darrell III Spain v Czech Republic
(Survivor) + Indicco Charlie Winston Marilyn Manson The Prodigy U.F.O

now MOORES Barceló
c/Barceló, 1
free wi-fi Tel: 91 532 6331 Tribunal

Special Sports Menu c/Gutiérrez Solana, 6
Tel: 91 561 5668 Bernabéu OPEN 11AM-5PM.

november ’09 5
Madrid agenda compiled in
what’s on? collaboration with esmadrid

David Bisbal Simple Minds exhibitions
Date: 24 November Date: 18 November
Venue: Teatro Circo Price Venue: La Riviera Marimekko
For those of Starting: 6 November
you who missed Venue: Museo del Traje
David Bisbal’s Since the 1950s,
crowd-pleasing Marimekko’s
performance at designs have been
the Madrid 2016 anything but boring,
candidature transforming fashion
celebration on 27 into a confident bold
September, there style. By only producing oilcloth and printed
is another chance fabrics in 1949 and later commissioning
to see the megahit young artists who produced new bold
singer perform on colours and patterns in the early 1950s was
24 November at Riitta Immonen able to present Marimekko’s
Madrid’s Teatro first small collection to the Finnish public
Circo Price. in 1951. During the period 1952-1956,
Bisbal’s Marimekko opened their first retail shop,

career began on shaped and developed their original line and
the Spanish reality production, designed their logo and started

TV show, Operación to export their designs. By 1958 Marimekko
Triunfo. Bisbal won had gained awareness internationally and
second place in This November, Madrid is teeming with a variety of concert choices to were on display in the Brussels World’s Fair
2002 and since behold, each one with a little something different to offer. Coming to the and a special exhibition in Stockholm. While
then has gone on to release four studio albums, two La Riviera is the group Simple Minds. Having sold more than 40 million maintaining a strong market in Finland,
live albums, and a greatest hits album—all before the albums worldwide, Simple Minds accomplish a task that is by no means a Marimekko continue to break through
age of 30. simple feat. Rock, new wave, new romantic, political activists; to say it is barriers and increase their growth on the
Bisbal’s first album, Corazón Latino, was released almost impossible to categorize this group is an understatement, but also is international scene. In the world of fashion
in 2002 and went multi-platinum by the end of the the notion that their music is captivating, and bridges even the greatest of their work is inspirational and undoubtedly
summer. Bisbal won a Latin Grammy for the album, generation gaps. flourished with vibrant patterns and
which continued to sell even more copies after the Simply put, Simple Minds are a rock band from Scotland who experienced innovated cutting edge designs. Marimekko’s
awards. their biggest worldwide popularity from the mid-1980s to the early 1990s. Autumn/Winter 2009/2010 collections,
The follow ups to Corazón Latino—Bulería (2004) Success found them in both the early years with their single Don’t You (Forget ranging from women’s to kids’, are modern
and Premonición (2006)—both reached multiplatinum About Me), and more recently in the form of critical acclaim on their more and playful with a dash of sophistication.
status. Premonición also reached gold status in the politically inspired work. Having survived several changes in band members, From 6 November to 13 December, the
United States and select countries in South America. Simple Minds have come together to produce their 18th studio album, Graffiti Marimekko Company’s evolution of designs
Bisbal’s new album, Sin Mirar Atrás, is set for Soul. Tickets are priced at around 40€, a token price to pay for three decades will be on display in the Museo del Traje and
release in October. of rock and roll. the exhibition will be as enchanting as their
Bisbal’s November performance marks the Madrid Charlene Lidyard story. Janelle Collins
leg of his tour, Sin Mirar Atrás, which kicks off on 19
Ulrike Ottinger
November in his hometown of Almería.
Verónica Méndez
The Sounds Starting: 26 November
Date: 27 November Venue: Goethe-Institut
Venue: Joy Eslava Goethe-Institut
Madrid has a special
Juliette Lewis and treat in store for you,
The New Romantiques and one that won’t
Date: 25 November cost you a céntimo.
Venue: Sala Heineken Ulrike Ottinger, one
of Germany’s most visionary filmmakers
is showcasing an exhibition of her most
intriguing photographic work. Having
started taking photographs at the age of
nine, there seems to be no limit as to what
Ottinger can and would like to achieve. Ulrike
is best known for her attempts to change
perceptions, all the while distorting the lines
between what is reality and fiction. These
two worlds collide to provide a truly unique
visual experience. Charlene Lidyard

Guy Ben-Ner
Starting: 1 November
Venue: Centro de Arte Dos de Mayo
Belting to lyrics like, “Listen little girl you better sit visual artist Guy
down, you better take a look around and get a hold of Ben-Ner follows an
yourself woman. And embrace what you’ve become,” unusual aesthetic.
Juliette Lewis’ distressed voice takes centre stage in Referencing
her latest album Terra Incognita. Released this past literature, film
September, the album has a different sound from and art, Ben-Ner conveys his thoughts and
Lewis’ past two albums with her former band The opinions about society, focusing particularly
Licks. After four years and two albums with them, on traditional family conventions and the
the actress turned singer opted for a new sound, role of the family man. Ben-Ner usually uses
and band, resulting in Juliette Lewis and The New the short film as his medium (Moby Dick,
Romantiques. Stealing Beauty), but previous exhibitions
Produced by Mars Volta’s Omar Rodriguez-Lopez have also involved sculpture (Treehouse Kit),

after he and Lewis bonded over Fellini movies at drawings, and bicycles (I’d give it to you if I
a music festival, the album strays from the heavy could but I borrowed it).
rock and roll sound that is heard in The Licks past Ben-Ner’s exhibit, which will feature all of his
singles like Hot Kiss and You’re Speaking My Language. work up until 2005, opens on 1 Nov and runs
Instead, the guitar serves more as an atmospheric The Swedish New Wave band combine dance, punk, disco, and rock to create the until 10 Jan in El Centro de Arte Dos de Mayo.
backdrop to Lewis’ voice as she drawls to lyrics like, perfect shut-up-and-dance solution. Formed in 1999, the band are a five-piece Sima Kalmens
“We’re all revolutionaries in a way” and “Now society’s with Maja Ivarsson on lead vocals. Their debut album, Living in America, earned
got no place for me.” The album’s eleven tracks were them various Grammy nominations. The follow-up, Dying to Say This to You, was León Ferrari and
co-written by Lewis and guitarist Chris Watson, and released in 2006 and the group later founded their own record label, Arnioki Mira Schendel:
feature the bluesy single Hard Lovin’ Woman and Records, through which they produced their third album Crossing the Rubicon in Tangled Alphabets
Suicide Diver Bombs. June of 2009. The new album features fun, upbeat music and their visit to Madrid Starting: 25 November
Verónica Méndez promises a perfect Friday night out. Verónica Méndez Venue: Reina Sofía

6 november ’09
Madrid agenda compiled in
collaboration with esmadrid what’s on?

Don’t be confused
by the title, there quizzes Marilyn Manson Muse
is nothing tangled Date: 3 December Date: 28 November
about Tangled Anyway Pub Quiz Night Venue: Palacio de Deportes Venue: Palacio de Deportes
Alphabets a collection Thursday from 23:00 in Anyway Pub. Viriato, 64.
of art by León Ferrari Metro: Iglesia.
and Mira Schendel. Often cited as two of the IRISH ROVER Every monday at 21:00,
most important Latin American artists of the upstairs in the library. Join us to spark up
twentieth century, Ferrari and Schendel worked a brain cell after the weekend. Avenida del
independently to bring language forward not Brasil, 7. Metro: Santiago Bernabéu.
only as a way to express ideas but also as a more MOORES Pub quiz in English every
concrete, conceptual art form. The vivid way that Monday at 21:45 in Moores Irish Pub, Calle
they use language entices your mind to think Barceló. Lots of prizes and great fun. Everyone
beyond its traditional uses. Tangled Alphabets welcome. Metro: Tribunal.
is the first time these two artists have been
brought together to display their achievements
– don’t miss your chance. Sima Kalmens fun Activities
Maternidades Parque de atracciones
Starting: 6 November Heart-stopping roller coasters, vertigo
Venue: Caixa Forum inducing rides or the spine-chilling tunnel

Award-winning of terror. Metro: Batán. Bus lines 33 & 65.
photojournalist Tel: 91 463 2900 e-mail:
Bru Rovira explores Planetario de Madrid
the universal bond Avda. del Planetario, 16. Tel: 91 467 34 61
of motherhood Metro: Méndez Álvaro. Closed Mondays
through a series of zoo aquaRium Bubble wrap, bits of bones, and llamas' claws are
photographs exhibited at la Caixa Forum. From the smallest insect to the largest just some of the instruments the British band Muse
Rovira, who received the Ortega and Gasset mammal. Over 6,000 animals from more incorporate into their music. But the potion works-- the
award in 2004, travelled throughout the world than 500 different zoological groups. band’s fifth album, The Resistance, debuted at #1 on
capturing images of mothers and their children. Venue: Casa de Campo, s/n Metro: Casa de the Billboard European Top Chart and at #3 in the
The photographs explore different cultures Campo. Bus lines 33 & 65. Tel: 91 512 3770 United States, solidifying their reputation as one of the
and their conceptions of child-rearing. Visiting biggest rock groups in the world.
The band’s 2006 album, Black Holes and
war-torn countries like Congo, the Catalan
journalist demonstrates how love and beauty sport Revelations, went platinum, selling over 1 million copies
can overcome the direst of situations. The series across Europe. Their latest album, The Resistance,
is also accompanied by works reflecting the REAL MADRID Estadio Santiago released in September, became the band’s third
children’s response to the images. Bernabéu Tel: 91 398 43 00 Metro: Santiago number one album in the UK. The newly released
The exhibition opens on 6 November and Bernabéu. album continues the band’s tradition to combine
runs until 28 February. Atlético de Madrid Bellamy’s voice with sci-fi anthems and laser-beam
Verónica Méndez Estadio Vicente Calderón Metro: Pirámides.
guitar sounds.
Tel: 91 366 47 07
See full Muse feature on page 8. Verónica Méndez
Jan van Eyck: CB Estudiantes Basketball

Grisailles Madrid Arena Tel: 902 400 002 The Prodigy
Starting: 3 November Date: 4 December
Venue: Thyssen-Bornemisza Real Madrid CB Venue: Palacio de Deportes
Starting on 3 Pabellon Raimundo Saporta Tel: 91 398 43 32
November, Museo Long recognized for their challenging lyrics
Thyssen-Bornemisza and controversial stage antics, Marilyn
will host the very
first Jan van Eyck nightLife Manson are now coming to Madrid to
promote their new album,
exhibit featuring the The High End of Low. Since
artist’s grisailles technique. Grisaille is a painting Wednesday they entered the music
technique characterized by monochrome, Nights scene back in 1989, Marilyn
usually in tones of grey or brown. Grisaille is Manson began to develop a
often used as a decoration and an undercoat in Vibe the party @ Orange Café strong following, achieving
oil paintings. Now legendary international party with two number-one albums,
Jan van Eyck was a medieval painter from hip hop and RnB music taking place every three releases in the top ten and out of

the Flemish region who was particularly Wednesday night at Orange Café , Serrano their thirteen albums, three have achieved
active in Bruges. Van Eyck is often referred to Jover 5, Metro Argüelles. Open bar of beer, platinum certification and three gold.
as ‘the father of oil painting’ because of his sangria and wine and beer pong games Marilyn Manson: dark, gothic and
perfection of the technique. from 11:30 pm - 12:30 am for only 5 euros. sometimes just plain creepy – you can’t
Jan van Eyck: Grisailles offers drawings, From 12:30 till close, entrance with 2 drinks deny they have a certain talent for putting With hits such as Smack My Bitch Up, Voodoo People
paintings, and ivories that display the included for 10 euros. Get on the guest list at on a show. Rumours of lead singer Brian and Firestarter, The Prodigy has caused media
importance of the grisaille technique in art. Warner throwing puppies into the audience, outbursts and frenzies throughout their career.
Sima Kalmens Thursday instructing everyone to kill them before Criticized for their outrageous lyrics and hell raising
Nights the show could continue, have haunted stage performances, many mainstream papers
Hannah Collins: Fever @ Joy Eslava the band and yet simultaneously created have sought to stop them in their tracks. Their
Ongoing History. The Ultimate Student Party. Every Thursday a growing fan base among people who revolutionizing of big beat electronic dance music
Films and night Madrid’s most famous club becomes a enjoy watching the public and media outcry. back in 1990, however, made them a hit with the rave
Photographs disco sensation with spectacular animation Their outrageous style and shocking lyrics scene, and the papers had no chance.
Starting: 19 November and the best music from the 1970s till have served to fuel the attention and public Alongside The Chemical Brothers, Fatboy Slim
Venue: Caixa Forum present day. Free entrance or 2 drinks for 10 support surrounding them. and Crystal Method, The Prodigy were considered
There are some euros from midnight till 1:30 am, or entrance The High End of Low sees the return of responsible for a whole new genre of music. They
exhibitions that come price with 2 drinks for 12 euros from 1:30 am bassist and songwriter Twiggy Ramirez mixed rave with punk and rock, successfully achieving
and go, and then till close. Joy Eslava, calle Arenal 11, to the band, alongside a fresh anger at three gold certified albums. In 1997, The Prodigy
there are the ones Metro Sol / Ópera. Get on the guest list at the modern world. This stands out most reached their peak with The Fat of the Land, which
that stay with you. in We’re from America, which delivers lines achieved #1 status in eight countries. During the
Hannah Collins strives Friday such as, “We don’t like to kill our unborn/ popularity of this album, video for hit song Smack My
to do the latter with her ambitious exhibition Nights We need them to grow up and fight our Bitch Up was refused airtime due to its aggressive
that pulls together a collection of three of her fabulous @ Joy Eslava wars”. Manson’s (Warner’s) break up with content. The Prodigy continued in their shocking style,
most prominent films and related photographs; This is arguably Madrid’s most glamorous club actress Evan Rachel Wood also creeps into although with the demise of the rave scene they
La Mina, Parallel and Current History. Collins night and is in session every Friday night at the the album, providing a sense of misery and slipped out of the spotlight.
has received numerous awards including the Joy Eslava located in the central Puerta del Sol desperation, for example in Leave a Scar: Maybe it’s the band themselves or maybe it’s
European Photography Award and the Olympus area of the city. Burlesque-style animation, “It’s not like I made myself a list/Of new and that people want to rave again, but with their new
Award. The themes permeating her exhibition exclusive VIP zones and the biggest house different ways to murder your heart”. album Invaders Must Die, The Prodigy have made a
about the struggles of people in modern society and mainstream tunes all night long. Are you Whether you love them or hate them, this comeback. Defined again by violence and aggression,
and the bringing to life of intangible experiences fabulous enough to be there? Joy Eslava, calle show is sure to offer all the best of Marilyn The Prodigy’s upcoming performance at the beginning
through images are sure to leave you walking Arenal 11. Metro Sol/ Opera. Get guest list Manson: eerie costumes, anarchic lyrics and of December in Madrid is likely to reawaken our desire
away with a new found sense of perspective. access to this party by signing up at an all round captivating performance. for the head-thrashing rave scene.
Charlene Lidyard Harriet Rockliff Harriet Rockliff

november ’09 7
Adam Ciotkowski



With Muse landing in the Palacio de Deportes at the end
of the month, Adam Ciotkowski couldn’t resist finding out
what they have in store for us.

ollowing a chance encounter Alternative rock was still getting over
with Muscle Museum, the third Radiohead’s OK Computer and the faintest hint
single released by Devonshire of a falsetto was enough for a new band to be
trio Muse, and the immense dismissed as fleeting pretenders - an unfortunate
aural pleasure that the state of affairs for Muse, who, in front man Matt
combination of its prominent Bellamy, have one hell of a falsetto.
ticking clock-esque bass and
explosive chorus produced, I was prompted On top of that there was the hysteria over
to buy Showbiz, their debut album. It was a the imminent Millennium Bug and, should
wise purchase. The girl that sold it to me told we survive (technology intact) the launch of
me so. She was right, but she also happened Napster was surely going to put an end to
to be the last person I heard mention Muse music.
for two years.
By 2001 however, things were very different.
Although it was an excellent debut, it is The Millennium Bug had turned out to be
perhaps understandable that it received a an elaborate hoax and Napster had been shut
relatively muted reception. After all, it was down having probably done more damage to
1999. the pornography industry than to music. The

8 november ’09

DJ Cosy O’s
atmosphere of technological apprehension spectacle to date. Following the rise to a grand
had subsided, giving way to something more chant of “EuraSia! Sia! Sia! Sia!”, it concludes
embracing of Muse’s brand of space age prog with Collateral Damage, a Chopin-inspired

Urban Review
rock. piano piece which, in the context of what
precedes it, is reminiscent of the “Nothing
Muse released Origin of Symmetry and from really matters” ending of Bohemian Rhapsody.
the first arpeggio of New Born they had the
attention of everyone that was looking the
other way two years earlier. The riff on Plug
At the midpoint of the album is Guiding Light,
an anthemic slow number. It seems made for 10 tunes that you should
In Baby is one of the finest ever to grace a
guitar and Feeling Good is one of the few
the moment in live sets when the lights come
up across the stadium: the bit just after the
be getting down to this
occasions where a cover version is actually first encore where you get a sense that the november

1 6
impressive rather than an admission of a lack 30,000 other people are thinking and feeling
of imagination. the same thing as you and it seems like the
most amazing concert experience you will
2003 saw the release of Absolution, including ever have. If you are not listening to it in that
the fantastic Stockholm Syndrome and the particular environment however, it sounds
Rachmaninoff-inspired classical piano on more like a poor man’s U2 and, frankly,
Butterflies and Hurricanes. a bit wet. Things are put right though as Chris Brown ft Lil Wayne Taio Cruz
Muse turn up the distortion for the brilliant I can transform ya Break your heart
Their evolution into stadium heavyweights Unnatural Selection and MK Ultra.

2 7
was completed in 2006 with the huge
commercial success of Black Holes and I Belong To You (+ Mon Coeur S’Ouvre à
Revelations. With cleaner production Ta Voix) comes complete with funky bass
than the dirge of Absolution (which I squelch, hand claps, Matt Bellamy crooning
prefer), the album was a further foray into over the piano in French and even a clarinet
progressive rock - with added grandeur. solo. It’s ambitious and over the top to the
This is exhibited best on Knights of Cydonia; point of absurd pomposity. But just when you Mariah Carey Sean Paul
released shortly before two sell-out shows think that the height of spectacle has been H.A.T.E.U Remix She want me
at Wembley Stadium, it’s epic and over- reached, the album then concludes with a

3 8
the-top yet enchanting, much like their live three-part symphony.
Exogenesis is the crowning achievement of The
A decade on from their debut and the now Resistance - the outcome of the evolution of a
‘supermassive’ trio, Matt Bellamy, Chris band unafraid to experiment. Part 1 (Overture)
Wolstenholme and Dominic Howard, release swoops in building to a rock opera in Part
their fifth album. I was eager to give it a 2 (Cross-Pollination). The third movement,
listen... Redemption, is really quite beautiful. A delicate Snoop Dog Serani
piano waltz builds steadily with fragile Gangsta Luv No more games

4 9
The Resistance opens with Uprising, the strings to a mesmerising crescendo in which
album’s first single. Over the backdrop of Bellamy’s falsetto is masterfully controlled.
a driving bass-line and a swirling synth
that sounds as though it was plucked from The Resistance sees Muse exploring previously
Dr. Who, Bellamy’s slightly-deeper-than- unexplored styles but in doing so they
usual vocals pulsate through the verse manage to retain their identity. There are
with a snarl, rising to the chorus and the sparks of brilliance and it is grand and
proclamation that, “We will be victorious!” unrelenting. Even in the quieter piano tinkling Ne-yo Britney Spears
Energetic and captivating, Uprising is a moments it seems poised, ready to erupt into Nothing but the girl 3

5 10
promising start to their fifth long player. an all out rock opera. At times however, it can
be overbearing and, with such a diversity of
This is followed by the slightly influences, the album feels a little disjointed.
underwhelming yet anthemic chorus of
Resistance. The Depeche Mode-influenced Nonetheless the beauty of Muse is that you
Undisclosed Desires sees Muse enter new never know quite what to expect. They’re a
territory with a catchy R&B beat and again a band who, for better or worse, are willing to
maturity is displayed in the vocals as Matthew push boundaries and are devoid of concerns Shakira ft. Lil Wayne
Jay Sean feat Lil Wayne & Timbaland
Bellamy seems comfortable in resting in the such as self-doubt. Few would be so bold as Down
lower regions of his vocal range. to put out United States of Eurasia yet Muse Give it up to me
do so with an unflinching confidence that
United States of Eurasia (+ Collateral Damage) somehow allows them to pull it off. This new cd releases
may allude to George Orwell’s Nineteen Eighty- outlook puts them in a unique position;
Four in title and lyrical content, but Queen with the technical proficiency of classically Memoirs of an imperfect
claim the honour of inspiration for everything trained Bellamy, they are only restrained by angel
else. The guitar pedals have been set to the limits of imagination – or, in the case of Mariah Carey
‘Brian May’ and the vocals are resemblant of their live performances, by health and safety Mariah’s twelfth studio release will
Freddy Mercury in perhaps the boldest Muse regulations. unsurprisingly not feature Eminem
but features a number of self-penned
tracks and production work from The
Dream. H.A.T.E will soon be blowing
up in the clubs while 80s fans can
look forward to a cover of Foreigner’s
hit I Want To Know What Love Is.

Taio Cruz
He is one of a number of UK
artists to move across the Atlantic
in search of success. This second
album has already spawned a UK
number one in the shape of Take
Me Back and Break Your Heart
should also get plenty of radio
time. Overall, a little too much pop
in here for my liking.

Check out
cosy o will be
spinning this
month at
november ’09 9
special feature
Our brand new website is online and
interactive like never before. Get involved!

EV’s new
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Main features:
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10 november ’09
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guestlist privileges
Wednesday, Orange Café,
Vibe the party: 5€ open bar
from 11:30 till 12:30. After
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Fever: 12:30-1:30, either
free entry or entry with 2
drinks for 10€. After 1:30,
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november ’09 11
party photos

12 november ’09
Charlotte Smith

the bull

A review of a new book by you, about you and about your world. Kind of. As Charlotte Smith says,
you are sure to identify on some level with these stories by foreign writers in Spain.

frowning faces losing the will to live to mention. The poetry section is
f you’re reading this as an
expatriate living in Spain, right in front of your very eyes. Until “Nobody ever lives not to be missed - I particularly
then you’ve probably got a
few stories to tell - the reasons
the ‘Coffee break’, when the suddenly
animated students find their reason
their life all the enjoyed, ‘House Menu’ by Marjorie
Kante, set in Barcelona, 1967, a
you came here, the reasons you’re for being again – communicating in way up except hungry, shameless young Spaniard
still here and the possible reasons
for leaving.
their own language. bull-fighters.’ sits down to lunch ordering the
menu twice over – for the second
– Ernest Hemingway
So why are you here? Did you just Ever found yourself locked in in The Sun Also Rises time he explains to the waiter:
need to do something for yourself? the metro at night? European
Dissatisfied with your life? Did you Vibe’s own Matt Johnson vividly “El menú
have an urge to travel? Craved the describes his spectrum of thoughts Everything?”
sunshine or a life less ordinary? as he steps, half cut, into Lavapiés The student (re)assures,
Did you come here on holiday and metro expecting to meet his French “Yes.
never really leave? Were you fleeing amigo. Tt’s Saturday, the night is El menú
a difficult situation? A broken young and Madrid is ready and ALL of it.
heart, and needed to start again waiting. Exactly the same.”
somewhere without your history,
memories or past? Did you study “Much to my horror though, I arrived Whether you’ve been here for two
here and forget to leave? Did you at the exit just in time to watch in months or twenty years we all
come here to teach English? Are slow motion as the automatic gate have experiences in common and
you fulfilling your dreams? Are clicked closed, blocking my only way much of it you will find written in
you lonely? Have you found a life out and shutting me inside, alone.” this unique collection of expatriate
less ordinary? Do you miss home? literature.
Where is home? My favourite fictional story in this Read this book as if it were your
collection is ‘The Lute and the Readings from the book at own personal guide to Spain, and
Like this anthology we all have a Fiddle’, a beautiful, heady narrative ‘Mad Open Mic Series’ - Cafe Concierto Lafidula, remember – home is where the
set of experiences that are personal about a young woman temporarily C/Huertas 57 from 9pm on 18 Nov. heart is.
to us, but like me you’ll almost constrained to a wheel chair, legs
certainly relate to a life in Spain cast and bound - what happened
through one or more of these to her is hardly important as she
varied works of fiction, memoir and takes us on her journey from
verse. her apartment in Lavapiés to the
First we meet ‘Bottomcough’, Alhambra in Granada, a place she
Michael Raphans amusing story wants to visit before leaving Spain.
of falling in love fast. But when In an effort to numb her constant
is the right time to share your pain she washes down muscle
first bottomcough with your new relaxants and aspirin with vodka
partner? And declare your love in a and water – as the only nameless
language that doesn’t belong to you character in the story – she slips in
like: “An actor in a cheesy Mexican and out of consciousness, sensual
soap opera.” hallucinations and dreams inducing
a sense of euphoria in the reader,
It would be wrong of me, as an similar to her own, describing the
English teacher, to write without world around her:
mentioning ‘Coffee Break’, Anita
Haas’s all-too-real description of the “It’s only a dream, I thought; the air
terrifying teaching experience that in the room is motionless. The leaves
reads more like an extended panic were winking at me; their backs were
attack than an hour in the classroom. shimmering silver as they danced back
A cringing read for any English and forth in the sky.”
teacher out there, as the writer
takes you back to that in-company This anthology has so much
class you once had - met by a sea of more to offer than I have space

14 november ’09
travel spain
Matt Johnson

replaced by dirty cafés, and cheesy,
multi-coloured slot machines
substituting arcade games at bars.
I could see grumpy rednecks,
grumbling between snuff spits
as the battle between country
and flamenco shattered eardrums
and speaker systems alike – each
side fighting to drown out the
other. Smoking bans would be
lifted. Coffee mugs would shrink

The Red Coats are coming
into shot glasses with handles.
Pints would shrink to cañas. Fish
would even be mixed with eggs,
scrambled up, and sold for ten
bucks a plate – joder!
Looking forward to a quaint corner of Iberia, Matt Johnson found in
Murcia ‘a Spain dubbed into English’ – with a rather different English- Anyway. Beaches. Booze. Bars.
Barato. Borracho. Whatever. What
speaking community from the one in Madrid. else? Well, immigrants aside,

Murcia did actually have more
ur GPS rattled out
commands in a matter-
minute or two, there didn’t seem
to be a person under the age I could see grumpy to offer outside of golf courses
and four-Euro fry-ups. As we
of-fact, polite British
accent (as modern
of 55 in the entire community.
Hmmm, I thought. They seem rednecks, grumbling discovered, this region also
served as a hot spot for scuba
diving. This fact in mind, as we
between snuff spits
robots tend to) as we awfully pale to be Spaniards…It
drove. “Bear…left.” Shifting in my went unspoken for the moment, were already saving so much
seat to avoid the jet of AC, I flipped but there was a sneaking cash on food & drink, we decided
the shutters toward the ceiling and
tried rubbing the goose bumps off
suspicion that we weren’t in
Kansas anymore.
as the battle between to splurge and go on our first
underwater adventure. And with
my arms. Outside the billboards
whizzed by, advertising rest areas or While driving through the country and flamenco its crystalline waters, calm seas,
and plethora of shallow water
radio stations or one of a dozen golf
courses – islands of oasis-like green
nearby town of Mazarrón en
route to the beach, this became shattered eardrums wildlife, Murcia did not fall
short of impressing us with it
puddles amidst the brown scruff of
wasteland that was inland Murcia.
strikingly clear. Expecting to
find quiet streets littered with and speaker systems aquatic eye candy.

I closed my eyes and yawned,
old men in three piece suits out
for a Saturday smoke-&-stroll,
we were greeted instead with
alike – each side So, upon further examination,
it seemed that our Murcian
adventure turned out to be a
fighting to drown out
the parting words of our villa
neighbour still ringing in my sandals, fanny packs (or bum cheap, fascinating, and enjoyable
ears. I pictured his wrinkled face bags as their owners would call success after all. High season,
grinning while he pointed: “Hey!”
He stood, squinting, liver-spotted
them), English swimwear signs,
and a seemingly endless stretch
the other. low season. Who cared? From the
drunken dancing grandma who
hand on a surely soon-to-be- of restaurants named (insert took out the microphone, podium,
plastic hip. “If you boys are up Asian adjective) Wok. and monitor stand during my
for meeting some girls before karaoke rendition of Gangsta’s
you get outta town, there’s a real The car started filling with Paradise, to the tipsy father who
nice club up the road there a confusion. Were we in England or tried selling his daughter to my
ways.” Thinking that we’d finally Spain? Did we need to exchange roommates; from scuba diving in
met someone with even worse currency? Were we in fact driving the Mediterranean to waking up
drinking habits than ourselves (it on the wrong side of the road? after a night out with my pockets
was, after all, 11am) we managed These questions, while answered still filled with crumpled Euro
a meagre, “OK,” gave him a smile in due time, were less important notes; Murcia, while increasingly
and wave, and started pulling than the more pressing matter colonized by outsiders, still
away. But he wasn’t done. “You at hand – getting out of the car, offered to the adventurer in all
can get a real nice girl up there onto the beach, and on the fast of us, a travel experience worth
for a good price,” he informed us track to intoxication. And, luckily discovering first hand. And I, for
without blinking. “Only 150 quid enough, intoxication in Murcia one, was just glad to have seen it
a night!” Unsure how to respond came cheap. while it still retained some shreds
to this adulterous advice, we of Spanishness.
gave him a grateful nod, hit the Back home, a beachside brew
gas, and sped away. would cost you arms, legs,
dignity, pride, firstborn children,
Well, there’s somebody’s grandpa etc. – here you could sip a heaping
for ya, I thought. Only in Murcia… jarra with your toes in the sand
for little more than a fistful of
Backwards from there, I did a suelto. And at night, although we’d
mental rewind to the start of our missed the high season by two
trip to Spain’s south-eastern costa weeks, the karaoke bars around
blanca. When we pulled into the the area, even on a Sunday, were
development where our friend’s still slammed – not by crazy
villa was, still a 15-minute drive youths out for a night on the town
to the beach, we knew this was mind you, but by what we learned
not your typical coastal condo. to be a growing number of
Super-wide, lane-less avenues English expatriates who’d come to
wound through a funhouse maze spend their twilight years living
of tiny yellow houses – all packed
right up against one another like
madrileños on a Monday morning
cheaply and comfortably in the
Spanish sunshine. English Speaking
metro. The license plates on the
cars squeezed into mattress-sized
driveways all had foreign tags,
I couldn’t help wondering
though, car speeding back to
civilization, about the cultural
Travel Agency
mostly British or German. There and political implications of this
were no children running around immigrant infestation. What if C/Gran Vía 80, 8º piso, ofic. 814
with water wings. No sound of
music or laughter. No bikinis! A
thousands of Spaniards, upon
retiring, upped and moved into
Tel: 917 587 277
few senior citizens waved at us my backyard? I pictured our
My Metro

Plaza de España
as we passed. A few more just
stood and stared. In fact, after a
avenues shrinking to cobblestone
corridors, fast food chains being
november ’09 15
travel europe
Charlene Lidyard

rom the moment I
stepped off the train
the best. For me, Florence was,
and continues to be one of my
absolute favourites. Having been
Julius Caesar, the be bought. Impeccable Italian taste
is evident, as each creation is its own
work of art.
I was enveloped in a
sense of history and
belonging. History is not
disenchanted by some of my
previous experiences in Italy, I
man, the legend Do you know that smell of your
only a distant memory
to be occasionally
found myself pleasantly surprised
at what I found. Walking the streets
and founder of biggest weakness, your biggest vice?
That smell that always seems to find
read in textbooks. No, in Florence
history is lived and breathed by
of Florence was neither tiresome
nor scary. The people were friendly
Florence. Yes, the you no matter where you are, and
subconsciously draws you in? For
each Florentine daily. This kind of
fervour beckons to you, calls you,
and extremely helpful. Monuments
and buildings were graffiti-free, a Julius Caesar. Are me that smell was that of the leather
market of Florence. Conveniently
and ultimately demands that you
tell everyone you know to discover
welcome sight to my graffiti wary
eyes. Streets were also illuminated you impressed located close to pretty much
everything in the heart of the city, the
Florence. and clean, and seemingly bursting
at the seams with shops and places yet? Although leather market has a little something
for everyone: shoes, purses, wallets,
Julius Caesar, the man, the legend
and founder of Florence. Yes, the
to eat.
initially constructed jackets. You name it, they have it. And
don’t forget all of those people on
Julius Caesar. Are you impressed yet?
Although initially constructed around
The area of San Niccolo boasts two
amazing qualities: an all-you-can- around 59BC your gift list, they would simply die
for a piece of Florentine leather.
59BC to provide a settlement for his
veteran soldiers, Florence or Florentia
as it was known then, meaning
eat menu for 10€, and being within
walking distance to the Ponte
Vecchio. If you are looking for an
to provide a For museum lovers, there is the
magnificent Uffizi. Not only is the
“the flourishing” has done just that,
becoming the great city that you see
even better deal, there are many
neighbourhoods, including Rifredi
settlement for his name fun to say, but the contents will
also leave Uffizi on the tip of your
today. Having endured many changes
in leadership and a bout with the
that have pizza, pasta and more for
fewer than 5€. Don’t forget the wine!
veteran soldiers tongue for the duration of your stay.
One of the oldest and most famous
Black Death, one thing is certain: art, Take advantage of your proximity art museums of the world, the Uffizi
culture, and people thrive. to the rolling hills of Tuscany and holds pieces by artists Botticelli,
treat your taste buds to a bit of wine Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo,
This all sound wonderful? You tasting. A self proclaimed “wine- to name a few.
ready to get on board, destination maniac,” I stowed several bottles
Florence? There are many ways in of Chianti in my suitcase for future The Santa Maria del Fiore, a.k.a. Il
which you can arrive, most popular enjoyment. Duomo is an absolute must see, and
by plane. Direct flights from Madrid a perfect way to wrap up your stay.
vary somewhere around the 100€ The Ponte Vecchio (old bridge) From the white marble facade to the
range. If you are eyeing a more towers impossibly over the Ano intricate stained glass and interior
budget friendly approach, don’t fret. River, and is one of Florence’s most filled with tombs, the Duomo is sure
There are some carriers that brag recognizable landmarks. Having not to disappoint. Likewise are the
10€ flights to Milan, a mere three originally been occupied by butcher Gates of Paradise. Exquisite bronze
hours by train to Florence. Train shops, these ultimately gave way doors depicting biblical scenes and
fares from Milan are also affordable for what you see today: jewellery, art commissioned by Ghiberti, the Gates
and provide you with the unique and souvenir shops. Most worthy of of Paradise will have you standing
opportunity to see some of the admiration are the jewellery shops. It before them, mesmerized.
world’s most beautiful terrain. was nearly impossible to prevent my
mouth from gaping open as I glared The only problem you will have with
There has been much debate at the breathtaking jewels before Florence? The newfound desire to tell
amongst those who have travelled me. All of the jewels seemed to stare everyone you know, to discover this

Born again in
through Italy, as to which city is back with equal intensity, begging to Italian gem.

Renaissance city
Charlene Lidyard guides you around Firenze, the capital of Tuscany –
a place of such splendour
that it even smells classy.

16 november ’09
travel photos
lingo star the section for learning spanish
Susana LOpez

Lost luggage Intermediate section
Vocabulario El Consultorio
Equipaje > supermarket
de lingo star
Maleta > suitcase Dirige tus cartas a
Bolsa > bag
Mochila > rug sack
The Association of European Cuadrado/a > square Querida Lingostar
Airlines’ study showed Iberia was Rectangular > rectangular La semana pasada salí a cenar con mis padres,
the worst airline in Europe for losing Grande > big
que estaban de visita en Madrid. La comida fue
luggage last winter. And it’s not Mediano/a > medium size
malísima y además nos trataron fatal. Puse una
only our hapless friends at IB, there Pequeño/a > small
Blando/a > soft reclamación y me dieron una copia pero ahora no sé
are plenty of other airlines flying to
and from Barajas who have a talent Duro/a > hard qué más tengo que hacer.
Ruedas > wheels Gracias por tu ayuda
for losing suitcases. So, touch wood Gris > grey
it won’t happen to any of us, but Leo
Negro/a > black
we thought it might be a good idea Azul > blue
to prepare you for the unfortunate Hola Leo
Rojo/a > red
eventuality. Estampado/a > patterned/printed Hiciste muy bien en poner una reclamación. El proceso
es el siguiente: en un plazo de 10 días deberías recibir
Expresiones útiles noticias del reclamado, el propietario del restaurante.
Si no lo hace o no te convence su respuesta, debes
En el mostrador de equipaje llevar la copia de la reclamación a la Oficina Municipal
extraviado > At the lost luggage desk de Información al Consumidor y allí te explicarán qué
Dices Oyes

Querida Lingostar
No entiendo a los hombres españoles. Llevo un
Acabo de llegar de ¿De dónde venía tu
Roma > I’ve just arrived vuelo? > Where did you tiempo saliendo con uno y, aunque yo al principio no
from Rome fly from? quería, ahora me gusta mucho. De repente me dijo
el otro día que quiere una relación abierta, es decir,
¿Cuál es tu número de ¿Cuál es tu número de estar con otras chicas. Yo pensaba que en España
vuelo? > What is your vuelo? > What is your
flight number? flight number? los hombres buscaban novias y compromisos y
querían al final casarse.
Mi número de ¿Cómo es tu maleta? > Alex
vuelo es… > My flight What is your suitcase
number is… like?
Hola Alex
Mi maleta es azul, Aquí tienes el Lo primero es que ese chico no te quiere. Respecto
grande, con ruedas > resguardo > Here is al hecho de que sea español o no, no creo que afecte
My suitcase is big and your receipt demasiado en su mentalidad. Hay hombres aquí, como
blue, with wheels
en cualquier país, más tradicionales que otros. Pero lo
Diálogo que te dice no tiene excusa. Mi consejo es que le dejes.
P: Pablo En el mostrador de equipajes Hola Lingostar
A: Asistente de tierra perdidos de la T4 de Barajas (Madrid)
Una amiga española se casa en unos meses y
P: Hola, buenas tardes. quiero organizarle una despedida de soltera que no
A: Hola, ¿qué tal?
P: Bueno, acabo de llegar de París y mi maleta no ha llegado. olvide jamás. ¿Qué es lo típico aquí?
A: ¿De dónde venías? Gracias
P: De París, en vuelo directo. Laura
A: ¿Tienes el resguardo de la tarjeta de embarque?
P: Sí, aquí está.
A: Vamos a intentar localizar tu maleta. ¿Cómo es? Hola Laura
P: Es una maleta pequena, con ruedas y de tamaño mediano. ¡Me encantan las despedidas de soltera! Respecto a
A: ¿Puedes darme tu dirección en Madrid?
P: Sí, es la calle Andrés Mellado, 57 2ºB qué hacer, depende un poco de vuestro presupuesto.
A: Muy bien. Aquí tienes el resguardo. Puedes llamar a este teléfono para averiguar el Lo normal es hacer una cena y luego ir de copas.
estado del equipaje. Allí te darán toda la información que necesitas. La novia no paga nada durante toda la fiesta. Se le
P: Gracias. Hasta luego
A: Adiós suele disfrazar y además es típico que las amigas le
compren regalos, generalmente ropa interior.
Useful info > If your bags are delayed, airlines usually agree to pay ‘reasonable’ Que lo paséis muy bien
expenses until the luggage is found. The amount paid is subject to negotiation and you
may have to fight for a decent payment. If your bags are not found, you must file a claim, Un abrazo
which takes some time to process. You’ll normally have to wait six weeks to three months
for reimbursement, although some airlines are much more efficient than others. Susa

18 november ’09
the section for learning spanish lingo star
Advanced Section WORDS by
Susana LOpez

Santiago de
Diario de viajes

S Si llegas a
antiago de Compostela antiguo podrás encontrar cafés y Santiago, lamento decirte que
me hace trasladarme a restaurantes muy acogedores y el tiempo es prácticamente

Santiago por
mi más tierna juventud, sobre todo con mucha personalidad. desagradable durante todo el
concretamente al año Recomiendo sin duda la “Casa año. Es continua la presencia
1993 cuando decidí, das Crechas”, un bar donde se del “orvallo”, una lluvia apenas
junto con un grupo de
amigos, recorrer unos kilómetros
puede escuchar música celta en
directo. En Santiago sigue viva la
imperceptible pero que te cala
hasta los huesos. El día grande carretera te
con el objetivo de llegar a la ciudad
a pie. Esto es lo que hacen cada
costumbre de ofrecer conciertos
en bares y cafés, algo que ya se
de la ciudad es el 25 de Julio, la
celebración del Apóstol Santiago. sorprenderán
año miles y miles de peregrinos
que comienzan su travesía en
está perdiendo en otros lugares de
A lo largo de los días anteriores
y posteriores podrás ser testigo los numerosos
Roncesvalles (Francia) hasta llegar
a tocar la mano del Santo 900
En muchos de estos lugares
tendrás la oportunidad de probar la
de celebraciones, conciertos
y actos religiosos por toda la peregrinos
kilómetros más tarde.
Han pasado muchos años desde
“queimada”, la bebida más gallega,
de la que algunos dicen que tiene
efectos curativos. De cualquier
ciudad. Merece mención especial
el espectáculo de luces, música y
fuegos de artificio en la Plaza del
que avanzan
por la calzada
entonces y entre medias, he tenido
la gran suerte de vivir un año en forma, se trata de un brebaje fuerte Obradorio la víspera del día del
una de las ciudades más bellas de hecho con aguardiente, azúcar y Santo Patrón. Si llegas a Santiago
España. Bella por dentro y por fuera.
Lo primero queda patente al
limón al que se le prende fuego
para que el azúcar se queme. El
por carretera te sorprenderán los
numerosos peregrinos que avanzan en el tramo
visitarla, simplemente dedicando
unos minutos a esa Catedral de
ritual suele ir acompañado de un
conjuro, palabras que las brujas
por la calzada en el tramo final del
Camino Santo. final del
estilo gótico que parece querer
tocar el cielo en la Plaza del
(meigas, en gallego) decían en el
momento de tomarlo.
El resto, lo dejo en tus manos
pues Santiago de Compostela es Camino
Lo segundo se hace evidente nada
más entrar en contacto con sus
Esta tradición de la queimada
representa al cien por cien el
carácter supersticioso de los
un tesoro que merece la pena
descubrir. Santo.
gentes, que reciben al visitante con gallegos, quienes siempre han
toda la hospitalidad del mundo a creído en la existencia de las
pesar de su fama de reservados y brujas. Santiago es el escenario
un tanto desconfiados. ideal para la puesta en escena
Santiago es una de las tres de estos mitos por sus calles
ciudades españolas más populares estrechas y empedradas y su halo
entre los universitarios junto con de misterio.
Granada y Salamanca. Nada tiene Santiago también es el lugar
que envidiar a las otras dos en perfecto para pasear, especialmente
cultura de bares y tapeo. Si pasas por el Parque de la Alameda,
por allí, deberías dedicar un poco pegado literalmente al casco
de tiempo a lo que se conoce como histórico. La primera vez que
la ruta Paris-Dakar, para la que no estuve allí me sorprendió la
necesitas un coche, solo algo de presencia de dos viejecitas, en
dinero y muchas ganas de beber. forma de escultura. Más tarde
Es una tradición en Compostela descubrí que se trataba de
recorrer la “rúa”del Franco un homenaje a dos hermanas
empezando por un bar que se costureras, Maruxa y Morelia,
llama París hasta llegar al último que se dedicaban a pasear por allí
de la calle que es el Dakar. Lo más despuérs del almuerzo. De ahí
recomendable es tomar “albariño” viene que se las conozca como “Las
o “ribeiro”, los vinos típicos de allí. dos en punto”, momento del día en
Si después del recorrido, el que se dejaban ver por el lugar.
buscas un poco de descanso, no Si estás pensando en cuál es
hay problema. En todo el casco la mejor temporada para visitar

november ’09 19
film first
Luc Ciotkowski

Away We Go
Director: Sam Mendes Cast: John Krasinski & Maya Rudolph
Spanish title: Un lugar donde quedarse Release Date: 20 NOV 2009

This quirkily their self-doubt, Verona asks Burt,
comedic coming (interestingly, the mantra of almost
of age road movie every thirty-something expatriate in
is something Madrid if you go to the right/wrong
rather unexpected bars) “Are we fuck-ups?” It seems she is
from American asking the audience too. With no sense
Beauty director of belonging and no ties apart from
Sam Mendes. Its to each other, the pair decide to find
main characters a new home for themselves and their
are Verona, an unborn child.
illustrator of
medical textbooks, and her boyfriend, Their journey takes them to Phoenix,
Burt, who sells insurance futures to Tucson, Madison (Wisconsin), Montreal
insurers by telephone. The film opens and Miami, presented as a series of
with Burt performing what turns out vignettes, before they finally find their

to be an unconventional pregnancy home. The film does dander along
test on Verona. We rejoin the couple, without great pace, but it gets where
in their early thirties, six months into it sets out to. Burt and Verona are
the pregnancy when Burt’s parents refreshingly and unwaveringly, truly
break the news that they are leaving in love. The flawed parenting and
to fulfil their long-held ambition of relationships they encounter on their

For Eric
living in Antwerp, Belgium. Burt and travels convince them they are, after all,
Verona, who had moved from Chicago much less fucked up and much more
to be near their family, are left feeling fortunate than they thought.
unanchored and directionless, as well as Watch it, especially with someone
hopelessly unprepared for parenthood. you love. But, if you’re single and have
While they aren’t necessarily poor, they suffered heartbreak in the past, you
seem not to have moved on from the might feel they’re rubbing your nose
Director: Ken Loach Cast: Eric Cantona, Steve Evets, Stephanie Bishop & Gerard Kearns lifestyle of their long-gone student in it. In which case, give it a miss.
Spanish title: Buscando a Eric Release Date: 27 NOV 2009 days; they live in a ramshackle prefab You’ll spend money on your ticket, and
All that Middle- force Eric to see his first wife, Lily, the without proper heating and cardboard three times as much on drowning your
aged Manchester already depressed postman suffers covering a broken window. Amidst sorrows afterwards.
postman Eric a nervous breakdown and ends up in
Bishop has to show hospital after driving the wrong way
from two failed around a roundabout.
marriages are two
teenage stepsons A do-it-yourself group therapy session
under his care with his concerned postie mates
and a grown-up prompts each man to visualize being
daughter with her in the skin of someone he admires
own baby. When and would like to emulate. In Eric’s
childminding duties for his grandchild case, he imagines looking through
the eyes of his namesake and
Manchester United hero ‘King’ Eric
“The end is just the
Cantona. Later indulgence with his
stepson’s marijuana stash leads Eric
to start having visions of the French beginning”. It’s not
football legend, who quickly becomes
a life coach and confidant to the though, is it?
beleaguered Mancunian. Just as we Director: Roland Emmerich Cast: John Cusack, Chiwetel Ejiofor, Amanda Peet & Oliver Platt
begin to think the film is an uplifting Spanish title: 2012 Release Date: 13 NOV 2009
(albeit lifting slowly from the gutter),
slightly schizophrenic buddy movie, On 21 December The Northern Hemisphere’s winter
events take an ugly turn for the worse 2012, the world will solstice arrives in 2012 and, sure
and in our guts we can feel a Ken end as we know enough, the Earth’s crust begins to
This director’s Loach misery-fest in full working order
coming on. Three years ago, that’s
it. The Ancient
Mayans calculated
collapse and the planet is devastated
as the oceans swallow entire
films should really maybe how it would have ended, but
in the midst of a worldwide recession,
the end of time
long ago with
continents. The only hope of survival
is a series of Noah’s Ark-style super
be compulsory the cinema-going public need hope as their sophisticated ships made by the… guess… American

viewing in Spanish much as anyone else. Loach eventually
rescues us from despair, but he has to
calendar system,
while New Agers
‘Institute for Human Continuity’. The
promotional hoardings and trailers
schools; it would abandon the realism previously built
up to deliver us from evil. But if we can
predict a profound
transition and the dawning of the Age
boldly claim, “The end is just the
beginning”. It’s not though, is it? The
soon put an end suspend belief for Eric Cantona life
coaching a Manchester postman, we
of Aquarius Naranja. That’s the premise
given to Roland Emmerich, director of
end is really the main event. That’s
not to take anything away from 2012,
to misconceptions can buy into the film’s finale also. Independence Day and The Day After but precisely what a film like this is

of Britain being We come out a lot happier from this
Tomorrow, to do what he most enjoys
and what he does best – to make a
offering is to see how the people in
charge behave in the situation, how
all about reserved than we have from any Ken Loach film
for a long time. This director’s films
movie in the disaster and apocalyptic
genre with stunning visual effects. Mr
normal people like us behave in the
situation, and jaw-dropping effects
ladies and should really be compulsory viewing in
Spanish schools; it would soon put an
Dependable John Cusack heads an to show us what the end of the world

gentlemen and
ensemble cast, which also includes looks like. It’s going to be good, but it’s
end to misconceptions of Britain being Amanda Peet, Thandie Newton, Woody not going to be amazing, unless you
five-o’clock tea. all about reserved ladies and gentlemen
and five-o’clock tea.
Harrelson, Danny Glover, Chiwetel
Ejiofor and Oliver Platt.
only care about special effects.

20 november ’09
new movie releases film first

Alphaville Golem
Address: Martín de los Heros, 14
Tel: 915 593 836
Zone: Central
Price: 6.80 €
Metro: Plaza de España (Lines
3 & 10)
Release Date: 28 Oct 2009 Release Date: 30 oct 2009 Rodríguez (Line 3)
Spanish title: This Is It Spanish title: Destino Final 4 Pequeño Cine Estudio
Address: Magallanes, 1
Tel: 914 472 920
Zone: Chamberi
Price: 6.50 €
Metro: Quevedo (Line 2)

Rodríguez (Line 3)
Address: Calle de la Princesa, 3
Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 888 902
Zone: Moncloa-Aravaca
Price: Mon-Fri 6.20 €. Sat & Sun
6.80 €
Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3
& 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3)
Release Date: 6 NOV 2009 Release Date: 6 NOV 2009
Rodríguez (Line 3)
Spanish title: Adventureland Spanish title: La caja (The Box) Renoir Cuatro Caminos
Address: Raimundo Fernández
Villaverde, 10
Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122
Zone: Chamberi
Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun
6.80 €
Metro: Cuatro Caminos (Lines
1, 2 & 6) Win five cinema tickets
Renoir Plaza de España for you and your friends!
Address: Martín de los Heros, 12 Yelmo Cine Ideal, the biggest original
Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122 language cinema in Madrid, are
Zone: Central giving away five free tickets to see a
Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun
6.80 € film of your choice at their theatre in
Release Date: 13 NOV 2009 Release Date: 16 NOV 2009 Calle Doctor Cortezo. All you have to
Spanish title: Triage
Metro: Plaza de España
Spanish title: 2012 (pendiente título español) do is answer the following question:
Rodríguez (Line 3)
Renoir Princesa
Address: Calle de la Princesa, 5, How many English League titles
Pje. Martín de los Heros did Eric Cantona win?
Tel: 915 599 872 & 902 229 122
Zone: Central Send your answer and
Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun
6.80 € contact details in an email entitled
Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 “Yelmo Film Competition” to
& 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3)
before 17 November 2009.
Rodríguez (Line 3)
Renoir Retiro Good luck to you all!
Address: Narváez, 42
Tel: 902 229 122
Please note: details of all films are correct at the time of publication.

Zone: Retiro
Release Date: 18 NOV 2009 Release Date: 20 NOV 2009
Spanish title: Crepúsculo Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun
Spanish title: Amelia
la saga: Luna nueva 6.80 €
Metro: Ibiza (Line 9)

Rodríguez (Line 3)
Address: Bravo Murillo, 28
Tel: 914 473 930
Zone: Chamberi Join our monthly
Price: 6.50 €
Metro: Canal (Lines 2 & 7),
Cinema Club
Quevedo (Line 2) We go once a month to see
Rodríguez (Line 3) the latest releases.
Yelmo Cines Ideal Sign up at
Address: Doctor Cortezo, 6
Tel: 902 220 922
Zone: Central
Release Date: 20 NOV 2009 Release Date: 27 NOV 2009
Spanish title: Un lugar Price: 7.10 €
Spanish title: Buscando a Eric
donde quedarse Metro: Tirso de Molina (Line 1)

november ’09 21
Martin Quinn

football in Madrid
he EFL, the 5-a-side league for Madrid’s
international community, got off to a flying

start with 88 goals in the opening day’s
seven matches.
Five extra teams entered the league at the last
minute, making for a final total of 15. It was
decided with the increased participation that all
teams will play each other once and then the
league split into two divisions according to the
standings at that point.
The biggest clash of the first weekend was undoubt-

edly the match between current champions Finbars
Celtic and the team they beat into second place last
season and dethroned after five consecutive league
titles, Santana. In the end, Finbars Celtic were able
to pick up where they left off and draw first blood
with a narrow 4-3 victory. Their bar mates Finbars
67 also started with a satisfying win after the learn-
ing curve that last season was for them.
In the only match disputed between two newcom-
ers, Moores Tribunal sentenced the Barones
de la Birra to defeat in a free-scoring encounter.
Real Monks became the first new boys, and the
only of the weekend, to beat one of the estab-
Spain’s titans finally square to each other in the first clásico of the lished sides. They beat Atlético Retiro by the
tightest of margins with the game finishing 5-4.
season. Martin Quinn explains why, on 29 November, you’re either Liverpool supporters club Madrid Reds’ misfortune
reflected their Anfield heroes’ recent run as they
Madrid or you’re Barcelona – there’s no fence to sit on. went down 12-3 to Atlético Cero (last season’s

third placed Headless Chickens renamed). Last
season’s most improved side Triskels-Audrey-
here’s a wee restaurant below asked the Catalans not to be getting Turtles welcomed Five Corners to the league
my flat in Chamberí named for any funny ideas about winning as Real’s with a clear message of how competitive it is, the
the owner, a Portuguese dude number one fan, El Caudillo, was being final scoreline settling at 9-4 in Triskels’ favour.
called Nino. Well, Nino hates very generous by even letting them play. The lads representing FC Británicos, the best
Madrid went on to win the game 11-1. English-speaking 11-a-side team in Madrid, had a
Real Madrid with a passion, rough induction into the short game at the hands
so, along with the giant plasma screen, it Apart from this incident though, there of a rampant All Blacks. The 18-1 dream start for
makes his joint a decent place to watch is little plausible evidence that Franco last season’s fourth placed side gives them an early
El Clásico. So there we were standing at and Co. gave the team help with dodgy goal difference boost and Diego García’s double
the door, twisting our necks in intolerable referees, sneaky kicks into players legs hat-trick makes him the first leader of the Pichichi
(top scorer) table.. Luc Ciotkowski
directions last May watching Barça in from the police or lead pipes left by
the process of giving the boys in lilywhite Reverend Green in the lounge. results
Week 1 18/10/09
a 6-2 spanking when some old punter Finbars 67 6-4 La Parada Numero 12
comes walking by. He asks us who we’re Let’s keep the Barça-Madrid rivalry in Juan Fernández 2, Ariel Frigiotti 2, o.g.,
Enrique Garriga
A Scorer 3, o.g

supporting and we all shout “¡Barça!” to perspective, though. One Old Firm day, Five Corners 4-9 Triskels- Audrey- Turtles
which he goes off on a rant during which winding through the streets of Glasgow, Koki 2, Alfredo 2 Felipe Martín 5, JC Marugan 3,
Pete Eaves
I only understand the word “Catalanes”, the Ballymena Celtic supporters’ bus was Moores Tribunal 9-6 Barones de la Birra
though I swear it was preceded by the approaching Parkhead when a pool ball Phil Kester 3, Vincent O’Brien 2,
Chris Johnston 2, Michael Nii Kwame,
Jonatito 4, José, Carlos

Spanish word for ‘prostitute’… came flying through the window, courtesy James Macintosh

of a Rangers’ fan. Well, not quite through, FC Británico de Madrid 1-18 All Blacks
Bobby Wang Diego García 6, Daniel García 5
This rivalry verging on hatred is what but, had anyone’s head been against the Daniel Andrinal 4, Daniel Alberti 2
Rubén Bautista
we’ve come to expect of the derby window, some sense might have been Madrid Reds 3-12 Atletico Cero
between the big two from the Castilian knocked into them. It’s even worse around Mark Doran 2, Shane Barett Dani 5, Christian 3, David Silva, Lucas,
Mario, Jimmy
and Catalan capitals. If you’ve ever the stadiums of Boca Juniors and River Atlético Retiro 4-5 Real Monks
witnessed the madness of derby day in Plate whenever they play. Those fans Alfonso 2, Paco, Luciano Emilio 2, Jorge, Richie, Miguel

Glasgow or Buenos Aires, you’ll probably have guns. Enough said. I’ve never heard Santana 3-4 Finbars Celtic
David 2, Beto Rob Pinnington 2, Paul Collins,
think this is a light picnic in Retiro Park of any major violence at Madrid vs Barça, Iñigo Manterola

in comparison. But there’s a lot of history but there is a tinderbox atmosphere in november fixtures
hiding behind Barça-Real, and the rivalry and around the game. It’s probably not 08/11/09
wise to wear the other team’s colours Free Week Triskels- Audrey- Turtles
is almost as old as the fixture. The teams
first played each other in 1902 (a 3-1
Barça victory). After a 5-2 win for the
the Catalan outside the ground, especially with this
time being the Nou Camp’s turn as host.
La Parada Numero 12
A Team Apart
Barones de la Birra
All Blacks

hosts three years later in Barcelona, the donkey Finbars 67
Five Corners
Atletico Cero
Real Monks
then Madrid F.C. players and officials
reportedly created a stir during the
and the And what predictions for 29 November?
Well. Real have gone out sticking their
Moores Tribunal Finbars Celtic

post-match meal with accusations of madrileño fingers up to the recession and spending
FC Británico de Madrid
Madrid Reds
Atlético Retiro
unsporting play, ungentlemanly heckling
from the local crowd and referee bias.
bear are wildly. The new age of the Galácticos is
here with Cristiano Ronaldo, Kaká, Xabi

face to
Barones de la Birra Free Week
Thus was born the clubs’ mutual dislike Alonso and Karim Benzema lining up All Blacks Triskels- Audrey- Turtles
and the madridista reputation for being
rather sore losers.
face in the this year in white. Barça don’t look too
worried though, manager Pep Guardiola
Atletico Cero
Real Monks
La Parada Numero 12
A Team Apart
Spanish having procured Zlatan Ibrahimovic’s Finbars Celtic
Finbars 67
Five Corners
Though Madrid became ‘Real’ in 1920 in
honour of King Alfonso XIII, it may surprise
bullring, services. He joins Thierry Henry and
Lionel Messi up front and also veteran
Atlético Retiro Moores Tribunal

some to know that, during the Second snorting and captain Carlos Puyol, Andrés Iniesta and
Madrid Reds
FC Británico de Madrid

Republic of the 1930s, Madrid dropped
the regal connotations from their name
scraping Dani Alvés. The aforementioned 6-2
slight at the tail end of last season will
Free Week All Blacks

and later added to their shirt a dash of the ground, be playing on the madridistas’ minds
Barones de la Birra
Triskels- Audrey- Turtles
Atletico Cero
Real Monks
purple allegedly as a further endorsement
of the regime. But after the end of the ready for and this club fixated with winning (and
paradoxically, losing) has obsessively high
La Parada Numero 12
A Team Apart
Finbars Celtic
Civil War in 1939, things began to change battle expectations this time. Finbars 67
Five Corners
Atlético Retiro
Madrid Reds
at the club from Chamartín. Real was, for
Moores Tribunal FC Británico de Madrid
the duration of the dictatorship, regarded So, the Catalan donkey and the madrileño
as the ‘regime team’ and the eye of bear are face to face in the Spanish 29/11/09
suspicion was cast towards their many bullring, snorting and scraping the Atletico Cero Free Week
Real Monks All Blacks
achievements. There was an incident ground, ready for battle. Whatever your Finbars Celtic Barones de la Birra
soon after the resumption of nationwide views of Castilian versus Catalan culture, Santana Triskels- Audrey- Turtles
competition when Franco’s head of state your politics regarding the Spanish Atlético Retiro La Parada Numero 12
security entered Barça’s changing room centralism versus the regions thing, it will Madrid Reds A Team Apart
before a Generalissimo’s Cup game be, as always, a great spectacle of soccer FC Británico de Madrid Finbars 67
against Madrid. It was alleged that he to see. Moores Tribunal Five Corners

22 november ’09
Luc Ciotkowski & Martin Quinn

World Cup
UEFA zone All Blacks
The New Zealand rugby team visit the Old
Continent this month and test their might
Twelve national teams order the final round of in a series of matches against some top
drinks and watch the fat lady take the stage at European opposition.

ove it or not particularly ability on the field of play. At
the Last Chance Saloon of World Cup Qualifying. interested, that’s rugby the moment they rank number
Luc Ciotkowski previews the European playoffs. and the New Zealand All
Blacks are a microcosm
two in the IRB World Rankings,
behind South Africa and are
of this rule. What Brazil is to readying up for a European
European moulded the Irish into a
solid, stubborn unit, in football, New Zealand is to its
national sport. They’re a classy
tour. They kick off on the
eighth of this month against
Playoffs stark contrast with the
French, who appear
less like a team and
team of South Seas bruisers
with a mixture of New Zealand’s
Wales and play all of the Six
Nations teams, bar Scotland and
Greece v Ukraine more like a hap- indigenous peoples, European Ireland. The finale is a match
hazard collection settlers and other native peoples in Twickenham against the

t is indeed a final op- of great individu- spanning the South Pacific that invitation-only, international
portunity to appear als. Playing the also populate the country. The selection side, the Barbarians.
at the World Cup return leg of the tie team has a near-mythical aura For the tour, they are captained
for Ukraine legend could work to Ireland’s thanks to this native blood and by Richie McCaw from New
Andriy Shevchenko advantage if they can go its heritage, best exemplified by Zealand club side Crusaders.
and the surviving well positioned into that the Haka, the pre-match Maori
Greek heroes from the second match – the highly war dance. Legend has it that the name
Euro 2004-win- dissatisfied and highly ‘All Blacks’ came from a typo
ning team. Several critical French crowd The Haka is a great spectacle. made by a journalist during a
eliminated sides will could be more a hin- This dance would scare the British tour by a selection of
look at this, arguably the drance than a help to their bejaysus out of any invading Kiwi rugby players in 1905.
least glamorous and most underperforming team. The army for its sheer ferocity and The ‘Originals’, as they were
equally matched of the European World Cup will be a poorer place stands as a testimony to the called, played as if they “Were
playoffs, and fancy they might have without the Irish or the French, but I country’s fairly good relationship all backs”. Back was spelt in the
been able to beat either over two think the world’s pubs already know with its native Maori population, darkest possible form and the
legs. However, Ukraine eliminated who they want to go through. Expect compared to other Euro-settled rest is history. Well, the fact
eighth in the world ranked Croatia plenty of nerves all round. nations throughout the world. that their kit happened to be all
and suffered only one narrow defeat If you were to walk out of the black might have also been a
during the group qualifiers at the Russia v Slovenia stadium straight after seeing it, factor. The myth surrounding
hands of England at Wembley. you would miss the game while the team grew gradually

Meanwhile, Greece are armed with ndustrious’ is perhaps the kind- still having seen an amazing throughout the 20th Century,
UEFA qualifying’s top scorer, goal- est adjective we can apply to spectacle. There have been many along with a fierce rivalry with
a-game Fanis Gekas. Who’ll win? the Slovene national team, but variations performed over the the Springboks which ended
Might depend whose fans throw the to disregard out of hand a side who years by the team and it has with controversy in 1976 with
most flares on the pitch. left the Czech Republic, Northern become one of the most famous a tour of Apartheid-era South
Ireland and Poland out in the cold sights in world sport. Africa. It led to an African
Portugal v Bosnia-Hercegovina would be foolish. They have quali- boycott of that year’s Summer
fied for finals via the playoffs twice

And it’s one of the reasons Olympics and an agreement
ortugal will look to their from two occasions, while their op-
Spanish-based players Ronaldo ponents this time around have tasted why the rugby team of New between Commonwealth nations
and Simão for inspiration, es- victory and defeat in their two previ- Zealand are so loved throughout to discourage sporting contact
pecially after their far from convinc- ous playoff experiences. Russia were the world. Another reason of with the Afrikaaner regime. This
ing performance in the group stage the surprise package of Euro 2008, course being their outstanding was ignored in 1981 when the
against a Bosnian side bidding for dumping the seemingly invincible government of New Zealand
their first major finals appearance. Netherlands from the competition refused to ban a South African
Bosnia generally impressed in quali- with the inspirational tutelage of tour of the country and it led to
fying until their final group match. Guus Hiddink and the coming of serious protests at the matches.
Their fans will be hoping they can age of Andrei Arshavin. Hiddink’s The reason given was “No
put the alarmingly ragged defen- men built on that success and politics in sport”, but the issue
sive display against Spain down to cruised to their playoff place behind was too hot a potato to prevent
having already secured their playoff the powerful Germans (who they problems. There was no more
spot. Portuguese failure and a World kept the pressure on right up to last contact between the teams until
Cup without Cristiano Ronaldo month’s final group matches). With the 1990s when Apartheid had
would be equally as disastrous for
corporate sponsors as it would be
the impending trip to the infamous
artificial turf of Moscow’s Luzhniki
The Haka fallen.

disappointing for fans of attractive Stadium, hard work might not be is a great Nowadays everyone in rugby

football. enough for the Slovenes. But should are friends (off-field in the bar
the lowest ranked UEFA playoff afterwards, of course) and politics
Republic of Ireland v France team progress, it would provide
the perfect opportunity for the This dance doesn’t really affect the sport
as much as other games. The

T would scare
he juiciest tie of the playoffs world to finally unconfuse the ex- mighty All Blacks are simply a
is also the hardest to fore- Yugoslavs with the similarly-named fantastic spectacle and a trip to
see goals in. Trapattoni has Slovakia.  Luc Ciotkowski
the bejaysus the land of the kiwi bird for the
next World Cup in 2011 would
Saturday, 14 November 2009 Wednesday, 18 November 2009 out of any certainly be an unforgettable
experience. Here in Madrid,
European Playoffs
Greece v Ukraine, 20:00
European Playoffs
Bosnia-Hercegovina v Portugal, 20:00 invading watching a game won’t be a
problem, given the amount of
army for
Portugal v Bosnia-Hercegovina, 20:00 France v Rep of Ireland, 20:00
Rep of Ireland v France, 20:00 Slovenia v Russia, 20:00 Irish pubs, full of fans from the

its sheer
Russia v Slovenia, 20:00 Ukraine v Greece, 20:00 Home Nations and the rising
Intercontinental Playoffs Intercontinental level of Spanish interest in the
New Zealand v Bahrain, TBA (result from first leg 0-0)
Costa Rica v Uruguay, TBA
Uruguay v Costa Rica, TBA ferocity game and its mystic South Sea
war dance. martin quinn

november ’09 23
Matt Johnson

A day in the life:
of a first
year American

The hard times of recession haven’t deterred first year American English teachers from their
Spanish adventure. Matt Johnson’s account gives us a peek into the daily survival of one species
in the wide and varied fauna of Madrid’s international community.

oth phone alarms hike. The gigantic Spanish flag flutters chains, sequined shirt, potbelly, gray
sound simultaneously, with the light autumn breeze as the hair and bowler hat all combine to give
startling my head from sun climbs its way over the downtown him the aura of a washed up Vegas
the pillow. I blindly jab skyline. There isn’t a cloud in sight. lounge singer – banished from the big
at each snooze button The flag, the plaza, the immaculate stage and sentenced to the Madrid
– a couple quick nine blue sky like a clean slate – all metro until either the cigarettes or
minute siestas – until weapons in the alarm clock artillery. the years take him. But neither age
my feet touch down nor lack of talent are enough to deter
on the cold floor of my room. The The metro’s crowded, as usual. People today as he closes his eyes and hollers
sun’s just started peeking through my all hustling, late, typical Spanish. No out his hoarse, heartfelt, two-pack-
shutters. It’s Thursday. As an English one speaks. Mind wandering, I trudge a-day lyrics for the entertainment of
teacher in Madrid, Thursday’s the new up and down the stairs with this sea all functioning eardrums coming and
Friday. Wednesday, the new Thursday. of smelly strangers, all occupied by going this morning on Line 5. Like so
Hardly anyone works Fridays – a their own thoughts; all wanting to be many other things in Madrid, none of
constant string of three-day weekends skinnier or richer or more confident or this makes the slightest bit of sense –
dot our calendar year. I’m not by any have bigger breasts or thicker hair or but it does give me a good laugh – and
means a morning person, but the daily more obedient children or just to be therefore, another weapon.
battle waged with either one of my happier in general. To each his own,
snooze buttons is easier on Thursday. I guess. Anyways. More stairs still. My first class is at a sports newspaper
Everything’s easier on Thursday – I remember hearing once that each in the east of town. It’s my favourite
especially this Thursday because stair you climb adds one second to class. By far. Not only are the students
tomorrow is yet another Spanish your life. I don’t know, but I reckon incessantly cheerful, but they are,
holiday so none of my students have to
work. Today’s going to be a good day.
that the stairs in this city could
keep you ticking long enough to see
My first class without fail, at least 20 minutes late,
every day. Instead of being pestered by
your grandchildren’s grandchildren is at a sports this seemingly inconsiderate tardiness
I dress and eat quickly and pop in to
the café downstairs for a small shot
graduate college, or whatever they’ll
be calling it in a century or two down
newspaper however, I decide to go with it and try
my hand at being productive. During
of hot liquid energy. Spanish coffee is the road. It also occurs to me in the in the east’ this time I plan lessons for the week,
one of the most powerful weapons of midst of this statistical daydream that of town. It s fill out paperwork, study Spanish, or
motivation in my alarm clock arsenal.
Delicious, fresh, quick, and strong
every cigarette you smoke takes ten
minutes off your life. I figure that if
my favourite write. Pre-class downtime: another
– and black. The grumpy barmen you calculate correctly, between the class. By far.
downstairs don’t know me by name,
but as soon as I plop down at the bar
cigarettes and the stairs, you can live
exactly as long as you’re supposed to.
Not only are Class starts at 9. It ends at 10:30. My
students, all thirty-somethings, arrive
with a groggy, “Buenos días,” my coffee But who knows? the students at 9:30. Either way, my paycheck
is already being poured. This makes incessantly sees no difference. If anything I’m
me feel like a local, like I belong; like
I’ve somehow managed to elbow my
At the bottom of the escalator now
and back to reality, I pop out my
cheerful, just happy to be here rather than
Torrejón de Ardoz, the industrial
way into having a place in this city. headphones to better hear the morning but they are, armpit of Madrid where I have my
This feeling is another weapon. metro performer of Alonso Martinez. without fail, other morning class. But whatever.
At 9:30, right on queue, my students
Heart pumping with caffeine, I scurry
Along with his karaoke machine,
feedback-screeching microphone and at least 20 arrive, telling me that since today is
along with the crowds at Plaza Colón keyboard instrumentals of “today’s minutes late, “Friday” we should forgo the phrasal
to the metro – a five minute uphill hits and yesterday’s classics,” his gold every day. verb worksheets and opt instead for a

24 november ’09

breakfast at the café next door. They’ll actually use English in or outside downtime writing. At 6:15, as always,
pay, they assure me. OK, I say. You their jobs. Ever. Seeing as they’ve yet my students show up, all smiles, ready
had me at café. And out we go. My to catch onto this fun fact however, I for the long weekend. This class, like
favourite class again, like I said. So remain employed. Anyways. So, when the one before, is elementary. Today
while sipping coffee #2 and nibbling I walk into the office, my students we are learning how to give directions
fresh tortilla, my students drill me, as are usually at their desks or at lunch. in English. Instead of learning how
always, with questions covering every Spanglish is being spoken everywhere. to give directions in English though,
detail of my life. It gets to the point I’m not certain, but this, I imagine, is all my students want to do is talk
sometimes where the line gets blurred what it must feel like to live in Miami. about the weekend, so I sit quietly
between whether I’m teaching English and correct their mistakes on the
or dishing out oral chapters of my So, four women students, all older whiteboard. One is going to visit her
unwritten autobiography. Seriously. than me, eventually all file in by parents in Toledo. The other, to a
At least they take notes. Nearly 3:15. Unlike my morning class, when park somewhere to enjoy some sunny
everything I say is met with oohs, tardiness is acceptable/encouraged, weather walking. I tell them that
ahs, and fits of childlike, spontaneous this is a frustrating nuisance. Like a sounds nice – I’ll probably just stay
giggling. They hang on my every word well planned attack, they strategically in Madrid and relax with friends. By
with such fascinated fervour that I time their entrances by ten minute relaxing with friends I mean we’ll
almost start believing that whatever intervals. This causes me to stop binge drink all weekend and stay out
crap I’ve just pulled out of my bag of teaching, say hello, ask how they are, at clubs until the sun is up and cafes
bullshit is actually interesting and pass them the attendance sheet, tell are open for breakfast. I don’t tell them
clever. It’s not though. Trust me. I them what page we’re on, and restart. the last part, and do a mental knock
am, essentially, the court jester; their The Spanish salutation process takes on wood that I won’t see them at any
bi-weekly morning entertainment. Kids about ten minutes. They come in every point during this debauchery. They nod
have cartoons. My students have me. ten minutes. There are four of them. I their heads and smile as I talk. I think
therefore spend half the class period they understand about 50% of what I
When class/breakfast is over I have studying Spanish and saying hello. say.
four hours to kill until my next group. Again, these punctuality problems in
Once again, another half empty glass no way affect the number of zeros on So, for the rest of the hour, as we
situation. I choose to be optimistic my paycheck. On the occasion that stumble through prepositions and
though and continue demonstrating we do cover a lesson, it’s most often no matter street maps, my eyes can’t help from
my Spanish-ness by taking a siesta.
Who doesn’t honestly love naps?
from the textbook provided by my
teaching agency (in case you didn’t
what you do darting to the clock every two minutes.
The weekend is so close. I can smell it.
Honestly? This type of thing would know, teaching agencies are companies in a lesson, It’s the Thursday ritual of waiting for
never fly at midday in the Anglo Saxon
world. Alas, Spain. Siesta: another
hired by businesses to hire teachers
to teach their employees, if you follow
the students that school’s-out-for-summer feeling:
the rest of the week flies by, all four
weapon. me). Most everyone I know works for a are going to days crammed together into that one

My next class is at 2:30. I struggle
teaching agency. at least get last hour. It’s like the exact opposite
of a kinked hose – but with time, not
but win snooze button battle #2, and My next class, luckily enough, is something water.
hop back on the metro to the Picasso
Tower. The company is AIG, their
in the same building, for one hour.
My students are three guys in their
out of’ it. When 7:30 does finally come
office on the 39th floor. Although I’m early twenties who do some type That
’ s why around, it’s all I can do to keep from
there, in their office, in the middle of
the day, my students, still, are fifteen
of computer work. They’ve tried
explaining but I’m not sure exactly.
it s the best. flinging my textbooks into the air
like graduation caps in celebration
minutes late. So I commence with the Surprisingly, they’re all on time No matter of my three-day freedom. Another
wise spending of time by studying
Spanish. For the record, my Spanish
today. The guys speak a much lower
level of English than the women,
what, as ’ long
week gone by. Another set of satisfied
students. Another job (for the most
is offensively awful. It is however, which is perfect for me. See, for more as they re part) well done. After giving myself
functional enough to communicate
basic needs (i.e. ordering and paying
elementary English, no matter what
you do in a lesson, the students are
learning a congratulatory pat on the back, I
hop on a bus with the rest of the rush
for various sized beers and coffees). going to at least get something out of something, you hour weekenders and head home to
I never studied Spanish back home
unfortunately, but I did at least come
it. That’s why it’s the best. No matter
what, as long as they’re learning
feel’ like shed my laptop and textbooks – the ol’
workweek ball & chain. With anchor
here equipped with one solid sentence something, you feel like you’re being you re being now up, it’s time to set sail once
in my repertoire: Los niños estan
saltando. The children are jumping.
useful with your life – spreading the
English language, giving back to the
useful with more on another madrileño weekend
adventure. Visions of tapas and frosty
So far it hasn’t come in handy. I do global community. Basically, at the end your life – mugs have been dancing through my
still keep my eyes peeled for jumping
children though. Just in case.
of the week, it makes you want to give
yourself a great big pat on the back.
spreading head all week – now’s the time to make
that dream a reality. With a belly full
the English of olives, chorizo, and cervezas, who
Back to it now. My students, four After the hour I have teaching the language, knows where the night wind will blow
us? Who knows who we’ll meet? Who
women of about 30, take English guys I head to the Regalia tower
classes because they actually use for my last class of the week, two giving back to knows what we’ll do? Who knows, who
English in their jobs. My first class is stops north in Plaza Castilla. At 6:00 the global knows? That’s the beauty of it all; this
an all-Spanish newspaper. My students sharp I arrive to their office and pull strange Spanish odyssey. And, well –
from there never to my knowledge out my laptop to do some pre-class community. that’s my Thursday for ya.

Teach English
with Hot English Language Services
We are continuously recruiting
TEFL-qualified, native English teachers
to give company classes at our
prestigious clients’ offices.

We offer good rates of pay and timetables
and excellent pedagogical support from
our teaching and editorial team, plus our
very own teaching method.
Please send your CV to: 
or call 91 455 0273

november ’09 25
food What do you fancy tonight?
eat out guide

Modern/International Cuisine Indian

Brand new Indian restaurant in Madrid! Exquisite
Creative cuisine in a casual, friendly atmosphere.
Indian cuisine, in a stunning and central location,
Lunch served Tuesday to Friday, Dinner served Tuesday right beside Madrid’s famous Plaza Mayor.
to Saturday, brunch served on Sundays. Terrace now open.
Tel: 91 547 4996 Tel: 913 669 099 Mob: 662 503 469
Plaza de la Provincia, 3 Sol/Antón Martin
Toma c/ Conde Duque, 14 Plaza de España Mister India Plaza de Lavapies, 5 Lavapies

Chill out
Chill Out Caché, an amazing place to discover.   Brand new Indian restaurant located in the Heart
An atmosphere with an oriental touch, where you of Madrid. Traditional Punjab dishes served by friendly
can “tapear”, try our creative cuisine or have a tea or Indian staff. Call for details of special Bollywood
cocktail on one of our spectacular Balinese beds. dancing shows performed in the restaurant.
Tel: 91 445 5157 Open 1-4pm and 8pm-midnight. Tel: 91 523 4570
Chill Out Caché c/ Cardenal Cisneros, 11 Bilbao Curry’s Indian Restaurant c/ Silva, 16 Callao

Come and enjoy our delicious chicken and burgers, Bright, colourfully furnished Indian restaurant located in
slow roasted to perfection and accompanied with Madrid’s trendy Chueca area. Open since 1985, it is a busy
garnishings, salads and other chicken specialties. little place and quite reasonably priced at around 18/20€
All this in a bright, fun, and youthful atmosphere!  per head. 3 course lunch or “menu del día” is served from
Tel: 91 445 9849 1.30pm- 4.30pm, dinner from 8.30pm- 12.30am.
Open every day. Tel: 91 391 4586
Top Mr. Pollo c/ Eguilaz, 14, Esq. Luchana Bilbao
Taj Mahal c/ Belén, 12 Chueca/Alonso Martínez

Centrally located Argentinian steak house with a
rustic, welcoming atmosphere. Enjoy traditional
Argentinian cuisine such as pizza, pasta, and grilled
meat. Variety of vegetarian options available. Open
every day ‘til late. Average price 15/20€ per head,
lunch menu only 9,50€. A pleasant surprise for non-vegetarians. Rustic,
Il Piccolino Della Farfalla Tel: 91 369 4391 Andalusian tavern-style décor, extensive and
La Farfalla Tel: 91 369 4691 surprisingly tasty menu. Located in the heart of the
Il Piccolino Della Farfalla c/ Huertas, 6 Antón Martín bustling La Latina area.
La Farfalla c/ Santa María, 17 Antón Martín Open every day, 1pm- 4.30pm, 8pm-12.30pm.
Tel: 91 365 8982
El Estragón Pl. Paja, 10 Madrid de los Austrias La Latina
Artemisa Tres Cruces, 4 ( Gran Vía). Tel: 91 521 8721
Ceres Topete, 32 ( Alvarado). Tel: 91 553 7728
Enjoy contemporary grill cuisine such as burgers, EcoCentro de Esquilache 4 ( Rio Rosas/Cuatro Caminos). Tel: 91 553 5502
chicken, and shrimp in untraditional Eastern décor El Vergel Pso de la Florida, 53 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 547 1952
while watching your favorite sports on a big screen. Isla del Tesoro Manuela Malasaña, 3 ( Bilbao). Tel: 91 593 1440
Conveniently located near Santiago Bernabéu Stadium.
Tel: 91 556 6776 La Bio Tika Amor de Dios, 3 ( Antón Martín). Tel: 91 429 0780

Monks Bar & Restaurant c/ Capitán Haya, 23 Cuzco/Bernabéu Food To Go
Basilicco Santa Teresa, 12 ( Alonso Martinez). Tel: 91 308 0102 SANDWICH TIME
El Gaucho Tetuán, 34 ( Sol). Tel: 91 522 4793
La Vaca Argentina Bailén, 20 ( La Latina). Tel: 91 365 6654
The ideal place for quick sandwiches, salads, and
Ciao Apodaca, 20 ( Alonso Martinez). Tel: 91 447 0036 desserts for people on the go.  Perfect for every
Mexican students’ budget too! Ask about our student specials!
Tel: 91 544 2364
Taqueria del Alamillo Pza. del Alamillo, 8 ( La Latina). Tel: 91 522 0850
Tepic Pelayo, 4 ( Chueca). Tel: 91 522 0850 Sandwich Time C/ Fernando el Catolico, 80 Moncloa

26 november ’09
What do you fancy tonight? food
eat out guide


Hard Rock Cafe Madrid offers the genuine American
food and we create an authentic dining experience
in a rock ‘n’ roll atmosphere: live music and museum.
Present the Hard Rock Cafe advert on the right and
receive a complimentary Hard Rock souvenir with
a €25 purchase (see ad for more details).
Tel: 91 436 4340
Hard Rock Cafe Pº de la Castellana, 2 Colón/Serrano
Alfredo’s Barbacoa Lagasca, 5 ( Retiro). Tel: 91 576 6271
Juan Hurtado de Mendoza, 11 ( Cuzco). Tel: 91 576 6271
Foster’s Hollywood Magallanes, 1 ( San Bernardo). Tel: 91 445 6110
Pl. Isabel II, 3 ( Ópera). Tel: 91 542 3172
Princesa, 13 ( Pl. España). Tel: 91 559 1914
Gédeca, 6 ( Alonso Martínez). Tel: 91 310 2369
Ribs Abada, 8 ( Callao). Tel: 91 884 3728
Peggy Sue’s Diner Eguilaz, 1 ( Bilbao). Tel: 91 445 1087
T.G.I. Friday’s Gran Vía, 76 ( Gran Vía). Tel: 91 275 9492
Tony Roma’s Gédeca, 17 ( Alonso Martínez). Tel: 91 310 1488

Traditional Spanish food, in a traditional Spanish
atmosphere, with flamenco music and a terrace right in
the centre of Madrid. Try the typical “croquetas de jamón”
or the house speciality “Don Paco”dish. Open all day from
10am to 2am. Tel: 91 522 9050
La Tía Cebolla c/ de la Cruz, 27 Sol

Enjoy typical Andalusian food, original décor,
oriental dance shows and a cultural fusion every
day of the year… Not to be missed!!
Tel: 90 233 3334

Medina Mayrit c/ Atocha, 14 Sol/Tirso de Molina
Bazaar San Marcos, 35 ( Chueca). Tel: 91 523 1505
Casa Mingo Paseo de la Florida, 34 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 547 7918
La Cueva del Faisán Espoz y Mina,15 ( Sol). Tel: 676 287 654
A Cuerpo De Rey Hilarión Eslava, 27 ( Moncloa). Tel: 91 549 4338
Mala Madrid Luchana, 17 ( Bilbao). Tel: 91 593 3358
Spanish Tapas
La Casa del Abuelo Victoria, 12 ( Sol). Tel: 91 521 2319
Malaspina Cádiz, 9 ( Sol). Tel: 91 523 4024
House Of Ming Pº de la Castellana, 74 ( G Marañón). Tel: 91 561 9827
Tse Yang Pº Castellana, 22 ( Ruben Dario). Tel: 91 431 1888
Zen Central Puigcerdá, 6 ( Serrano). Tel: 91 431 1233
Ayala Japón Ayala, 67 ( Lista). Tel: 91 309 5625
Furama Paseo de la Florida, 2 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 548 7658
Korea Cristobal Bordiu, 59 ( Nuevos Ministerios). Tel: 91 554 2034

november ’09 27
bits & pieces

My Metro
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
ACROSS La Latina
9 10 1 Lighter-than-air
craft (3-3,7)
9 Jewish Day of
Atonement (3,6)

11 12
10 Savoury jelly (5) here is someone below me allowing
their smoke-damaged vocal chords to be
11 Hindu holy man (5) dragged along tunelessly to a classical
12 Dictionary of piano version of Nirvana’s Nevermind.
13 14 15 16
Sizzling pork dishes and fried fish in-the-pan battle
synonyms (9) for supremacy with the voice... and an old lady’s
17 13 Severe headache (8) crowing beats them all with a whispered conversa-
15 White whale (6) tion not unlike a pneumatic drill... all tumbling
18 19 20 through my fifth floor bedroom window from the
18 Smooth and white plaster void beneath. I live in La Latina.
21 shiny (6) It’s Sunday.
19 Polish, for Some of us made it to El Rastro for a nice
22 23 24 25 healthy slap in the face of colour and noise, some
example (8) of us have stayed in bed, cocooned in fresh warm
22 Indistinguishable (9) sheets and dreaming up articles for European
24 Bestow (5) Vibe, and some are probably still gliding on a coke
float from last night and may make it back to real-
26 27
26 Giant (5) ity by some time this evening.
27 Indian Ocean This isn't a British Sunday...children seem to
nation (9) have been packed away for the weekend and the
church has closed for siesta...they say this is a reli-
28 Renewal of gious country, but apart from the occasional som-
supplies (13) bre incense-fragranced marches of the golden lady
and drunken priests, or the ball gown-wearing
DOWN Opus Dei lot, who mingle and network and show
1 Sultry (5) 14 March with an exaggerated swing of the legs (5,4) off their silks outside their church-slash-palace of
a Saturday afternoon, I see no sign of it.
2 Special courts (9) 16 Reminiscent; resonant (9) For here is a mixture of old and new Madrid,
3 Powerless (8) 17 Military leave (8) thrown together like paella. The Spanish seafood
4 Load (6) 18 Sparkle (7) and the immigrant meat, entangled strangely in a
5 Andean beast of burden (5) 20 Naturist (6) sticky burnt rice of fags and music and cocktails
and tourists to pick-pocket, all trying to make
6 Timely (9) 21 Large prawns fried in breadcrumbs (6) at least some money, as we enjoy life a little too
7 Capital of Cyprus (7) 23 Slight colouring (5) much and push thoughts of retirement and desti-
8 Mineral used to make Plaster of Paris (6) 25 Pay to graze on another’s pasture (5) tution to one’ll happen later. ¡Ole!
I am engaged in teaching my language to a
motley crew of idiots and gods, far too many of
SUDOKU easy puzzle 23 HARD puzzle 23 the one and not nearly enough of the other, but
all of them, to a student, convinced that ‘people’
is a singular noun, no matter how much I seethe
4 5 8 2 9 6 2 9 and threaten to hit them with my dog-eared £1
dictionary. Maybe they are right? Maybe we are
9 9 2 4 one. I have caught myself recently slipping on the
verb ‘to be’...I don't know what it are any more.
6 7 1 8 5 I live ten minutes from the Royal Palace, pay-
ing nearly half my wages for a small room without
heating, on what was once a road for bandits, Calle
2 9 4 1 9 Toledo, tapping away in English on a Spanish key-
board, thinking away in English in a Spanish land,
7 8 9 1 1 4 2 3 wondering if, in the sea of cervecerías and cocktail
bars, crab claws and old man's spit, I will ever find
1 4 2 9 6 my way into a people who would probably prefer I
was not here. Madrid, and especially La Latina, is a
dazzling mess of smell and sound, light and colour,
7 6 3 1 6 horribly and deliciously corrupt and completely
disorganized. The men hack, the women screech,
6 8 6 7 the old people look at you like dirt on the bottom
of their zapato, and nearly all handsome men still
live with their mother. But nevertheless, I love it.
6 2 1 9 7 5 2 1 And so, reader, should you. Alice Bell

28 november ’09
Free Services/Classifieds
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Prices: - plain 15€; with colour 25€ (17th of each month) Payment must be received by the deadline. Call 91 549 77 11 or email: to arrange payment.

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nationalities & exchange languages email:
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evening from 21:30 till late. Join us at Café theatrical group. We put on plays, small
Madrid (c/Escalinata, s/n - metro Opera). productions, do in-house readings,
Ask for Fran ( improvisations, etc. We meet every
Website: Thursday. For info call 91 521 16 98 or 91
INTERCAMBIO DE IDIOMAS 564 57 01. 91-445 5511
GRATUITO cada domingo a las 7 en C/ Rodríguez San Pedro, 2
el pub The Quiet Man (c/ Valverde,
44 - metro Tribunal). Ven a intercambiar Sports Clubs Metro: San Bernardo
idiomas gratis y a hacer nuevos amigos
de todo el mundo en un ambiente Madrid Hash House Harriers: Contact Rob at 697 345 613 or visit is Spain’s leading
acogedor. E-mail: forspanish@hotmail. meets every weekend rain, shine or print service for international clients.
com Web: credit crunch. We sprint, run or crawl Madrid Lions Rugby Club needs you! Everything from exhibitions to business
group.php?gid=19732127016 a trail for about one hour somewhere All nationalities and player levels welcome. cards. All in English!
Young non-profit group invite you outside Madrid and return to a More information from Charlie on 636 067 622 142 385 - 931 924 153
to share languages (English & Spanish) welcoming can or three of beer. 716 and website Writers with Talent If you think
& interests. Meetings Saturday 10pm. Visit  Youth Baseball. Close to Alcala de Henares. you are a talented writer and would
Email: Looking to go hiking in the We need coaches, players and anyone able like to see some of your articles and
mountains in Madrid? if your are to help us develop a youth league in this interviews published, send some
looking for friends to go hiking in the area. Tel Jose on: 91 879 3068 (eves) examples of your work and a CV to
Internships mountains in Madrid come with us,
it's free. We are an international hiking
Internships now available with a group- Madrid adventure - 664368418 Accommodation
professional, young and growing Madrid Support Groups
based company. Gain knowledge and Private and Semi Private Yoga Rooms Available 2 Rooms available
experience in the work place in the Classes Offered in English Private yoga in newly renovated house of 100m sq. Alcoholics Anonymous Madrid
areas of Graphic Design, Marketing, PR classes offered to fit your busy schedule Wifi, AC/Heating, impeccable condition. meeting. Daily meetings in English 
and Journalism. Flexible hours available and budget. I will come to your office or Metro lines 5 and 6, Oporto area, 10 Juan Bravo 40, Bis Call 913091947 or
and full references given on completion home and guide you through a one hour minutes to University Carlos III, contact visit website:
of Internship. Send a full CV to energetic yoga practice in English. 30 Carmela at 687552212 or carmelacastelo@ Counselling Madrid. Euros per person, discounts offered for 2 or for more details. At Counselling Madrid we provide
more. I have studied yoga for 5 years under Room for rent Big, sunny room to confidential counselling services to the
several top teachers in the United States rent in comfortable, refurbished flat, international community. We help clients
Clubs and have instructed yoga privately shared with German male+female. Fully dealing with anxiety, depression, low
for 2 years. furnished room (double bed) with all self-esteem, GAD and OCD. For more
MADRID FRIENDS Gay social group Thai boxing club in Madrid amenities - lift, concierge, TV, central info please visit www.counsellingmadrid.
meets Thursdays at 9pm at Café Figuera, welcomes new members of all sexes & heating, fully equipped kitchen; walking org or send your email to joseph@
Chueca. Everyone welcome. More-info levels to learn this amazing sport, get fit, distance N. Ministerios/C. Caminos/ Tel 648 087 809
contact Stefan on 650984329 or Matt lean & hard. Visit www.muaythaimadrid. Alvarado. Only Non-Smokers; 470€ - all Therapy Group Peter 936759276 or
on 646091735, email: madrid.frenz@ com email or bills included (cleaning of shared areas, Claudia 934177860 call David on 662164877. electricity, gas, water, phone, WiFi);
The British Ladies Association Hockey! Come along and join us at deposit 600€. Call: 661 901 979
would welcome new members of any the weekends for mixed non-league Charity
nationality. Our activities are raising field/grass hockey on water-based
money for charities, monthly meetings astroturf. We play at the Federación Miscellaneous In aid of Spanish Charities
with speakers and also visits to places of Madrileña de Hockey (opposite the Charity Bazaar *British Ladies
interest. Somontes sports club on the Madrid-El Bacchus Photography Contest Association* Location: Apartamentos
English Reading Circle at the Pardo road) Email: los_naranjas@yahoo. Present 4 of your best pictures: - portrait - Centro Norte, Mauricio Legendre, 16
International Institute Library. Monthly for more info. documentary - nature - humour. Rules: (between Pl. de Castilla and Chamartin
meetings to discuss English literature in Cricket in Madrid Madrid Cricket Selfmade, and taken in Madrid - Not stations) Sunday, 29, November, 2009
English. For more information visit Club is looking for players of all levels and manipulated (photoshop etc...) - One – 12pm to 6pm. Admission: Adults or write to nationalities. Play in the Spanish league! picture of category - Recently taken, 3€, Children (1-3yrs) 1€. GIFTS,TOYS,
Public Speaking and Networking Contact David (670087637) or Manny between Oct-Nov 2009 Prizes: 1: Bottle BOOKS,SNACKS,CHRISTMAS FOODS,
Group. International group that meets (627557572) of Jack Daniels 2: Bottle of Rioja 3: A HANDICRAFTS, BAR AND REFRESHMENTS
to improve public speaking skills. Basketball Madrid. Meet new night out drinking with Rick....!!!! drunken. Wanted: Donations of Books in
2nd & 4th Thursday each month at people, get fit and enjoy yourself. any language, videos, music CD’s, music
2030 Bar Locandita (C/Fuencarral 148) People wanted to practice basketball Proinc Construction 918464363 cassettes, video games and records/LP’s
Contact:standingovationmadrid@yahoo. once a week. Active social calander. for British Ladies Associations Christmas

november ’09 29

Bazaar. Please call Pauline on 91-710 915942208
5564 or 639 444 392. Mobile Hairdresser Sally 918425443
Gon Beauty, health and Useful Telephone
Fitness Numbers
de Quevedo nto
Plaza de Fe lician SHIATSU-ACUPUNCTURE National information 11818 /
Olavide Santa lio
o Lu Lumbar, sciatic, stiff neck, muscular 11850 / 11828

pains, menstrual disorders, allergies, International information 11825

Madrid tourism Centre: Plaza

al Cis

asthma, insomnia, stress, depression,

migrains, diarrhea constipation, etc, Mayor, 27 (bajo), 91 588 16 36 turismo@


Carmen Yagüe Metro: Sol.


Tfno: 639833036, E mail: Lost and Found: Paseo del Molino, 7
ch Teacher 91 527 95 90 Metro: Legazpi

in the Japanese Shiatsu college in Cancellation of credit cards
Madrid. Graduate in Traditional Chinese 90 0 971231 (free call)
za Plaza de Medicine. Metros: Anton Martin y Tetuan Emergencies: 112
PERSONAL TRAINER AT HOME National police: 091
e Sag
asta C/ Raimundo Lulio, 18 OR OUTDOORS The latest methods of Municipal police: 092

914 480 460 training and combination of disciplines at
your disposal to motivate, support and help
you loose weight and flabbiness, eliminate
Complaints by phone: 90 210 2112 /
91 548 8537 (Tourist and foreigner
customer service dept)
Iglesia, salida Sagunto 3, 16, 61, 147 aches and back pain, and achieve your Teletaxi: 91 371 2131 / 91 371 3711 health and fitness goals. For individuals or Barajas airport (T1, T2 & T3): 91
couples in English/Spanish. Margreet at 656 305 8343 T4: 90 240 4704
948 116. Email: Railway: 902 24 02 02
Aerobics club Cheryl 677244074 24-HOUR PHARMACIES C/Conde de Peñalver, 27. Tel: 91 402 43 04
Personal Trainer Metro: Goya-Lista. C/Ferraz, 13 Tel: 91
Tel: 662164877 547 05 72. Metro: Ventura Rodríguez.
Hair and Make up artist Shimanda C/ Goya, 89 Tel: 91 435 49 58. Metro:
914457149/699362500 Shimanda11@ Goya. C/ Mayor, 59 Tel: 91 559 23 95. Metro: Sol. C/ Atocha, 46 Tel: 91 369 20 00.
US Psychotherapist David Hugener Metro: Atocha.

YOUR ROLLERBLADE SHOP IN MADRID Pick up your free copy of European Vibe
SKATE SALES AND RENTALS - ACCESSORIES - magazine from any of the places listed.
SPARE PARTS -  REPAIR SHOP To Be On Our Distribution List Email:
- numbers indicate Madrid metro lines Cercanías
C/MANUELA MALASAÑA, 28 Bilbao Gran Vía Beer Station Babylon Idiomas
WEB: Alcalá de Café Madrid Cubik
Henares La Musa Carpe Diem
EMAIL: LSI Madrid Shooters Dark Tattoo Tony’s Café
Instituto de Hotelería y
Molly Malones El Imperfecto Interpublic
TEL: 91 591 5210 Turismo
Schiller International Gregorio Internet Center
University Marañón Hostal Oriente Inti de Oro
Avenida de The Things That Booksellers Idiomas Plus Miau
América You Miss Fórmula.Sil International Bookshop
Los Amigos- Regina
Centro de Estudios
Internacional - CIS Callao Hospital del Backpackers’ Hostel
O’Brien’s Sol
Curry’s Norte
AngloINFO is your online information Avenida de Studio 54 The Food Hall Vanadillo Artemisa
Mercado de la Zeppelin Viajes Cine Ideal
la Paz
source for Madrid – all in English! Universal Music Reina Iglesia C.E.E. Idiomas
Anyway Plaza de Dubliners
4 The AngloFILE Business Directory 4 INFOrmation Pages
Alonso Chamartín A y Z Spanish Lang. España Fontana d’Oro
A comprehensive and easy-to-use Relevant, dependable, practical help Of. Turismo Chamartín British Council Actual Plus El Piccollino della Farfalla
essential to life in Spain: your local
directory of local English-speaking Club de Español University of Mississippi Connect@ Hispania Center
businesses in Madrid reference library Chueca Las Mil y Una Noches
El Cano Tavern Hotel Moderno
International House Areia Islas Filipinas TGI Friday’s Hostal Los Amigos
4 What’s On Guide 4 Classifieds & Discussions
Finnegans Circus Noodle Bar American Store Siam
Forthcoming events and activities Buying and selling, local jobs and Hostal Oriente
for English-speakers throughout accommodation, friendly advice O’Conners Moore’s (Plaza Mayor)
Pasajes Ciudad La Latina Príncipe Pío
the Madrid region! and answers to questions
Hotel Florida Norte Naturbier
Universitaria La Taquería de Birra
Tulane University El Estragon Lokua O’Connell Street
Plus: Much, much more..!
Alonso Martínez Universitaria O’Neill’s
Find it fast at: Areia Complutense Lavapiés República Talking Point Blood Brothers (servicio de Café Barbieri Argentina Tierra
British Council informacion) La Librería de Lavapies Taste of America Vanadio
British Embassy IES Programme
Club Ivy Manuel Retiro Tetuán
Funiversal Colón Becerra Ele. Madrid OISE (Academia de
La Parpusa Hard Rock Café Tandoori Station Unidad Medica Español)
Antón Martín Concha Espina Metropolitano Rubén Darío Tribunal
Hotel Tryp Atocha N.Y.U. St. Louis University State University
of New York Cannibal
Inti de Oro Suffolk University
Cuzco Syracuse University Mercado Fuencarral
Zoe Café
Larry’s Bar Moncloa The Causeway Moore’s
Warner American Store University of Boston Triskel Tavern
Public House San Tirso de
Always School of
English Diego de León Bernardo Molina
Star Café Bo Finn Noviciado ¡Juan Por Dios! Cat’s Hostel
High Quality General Dentistry Clinic with Finbar’s J & J Books and Coffee Schiller University Mad Hostel
English speaking dentist trained in the USA.  Icade University Esperanza Kabokla Wall Street
Call Dr. Milo Garcia for an appointment and Enforex Sony BMG Scruffy Murphy’s Velázquez
visit our webpage for more information. Banco de Francos Núñez de Bernabéu
English Centre
Dr. Milo Garica Tempone España Rodríguez Balboa Crazy Monk
Plaza Prosperidad, 3, 2B, 28002, Madrid James Joyce Universidad Antonio St. George’s Church EBC Univ. Rey Juan Carlos
Tel: 91 415 8197 Tandem de Nebrija USA Embassy Guts
Email: Irish Rover Ventura Aeropuerto Goya Ópera Rodríguez
T1-T2-T3 Casa del Libro Academia Contacto Sevilla Las Mil y Una Noches
Barajas Information Todo Españo Bangkok Al Natural Shamrocks Irish Bar

30 november ’09