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Cosmetic tattoo is such a growing
proIession and as we are getting
more members including this as part
oI their services we asked Val
Glover-Hovan to share with us some
oI her vast knowledge.
Val is respected internationally as a
master practitioner in cosmetic
tattoo and as a leading educator. For
over 25 years she has been IaithIully
committed to this proIession and is
constantly in high demand. In her
clinic in Sydney she perIorms
approximately 35 procedures each
week, with one oI her intern
practitioners perIorming around 20,
so she has a great deal to oIIer in
terms oI experience and knowledge.
In this article we ask her which
procedure is the most popular in
cosmetic tattooing.
I would have to say that "eyebrow
enhancement" would have to be the
most popular procedure. In my
practice most oI the clients are over
40. This is the age group when
woman who have either over-
plucked their brows, have thinned
out eyebrows, or lost the ends oI
their brows due to the ageing
process will seek the beneIit oI
cosmetic tattooing. Another reason
is when their Iailing eyesight makes
i t di I I i cul t , or s omet i mes
impossible, Ior them to pencil in an
even shape. Many who suIIer Irom
arthritis Iind it painIul to hold their
arm up, and the list is endless. I have
clients Irom 40 to 80 years oI age
who work hard to look their very
best, and a perIect eyebrow can do
wonde r s t o i mpr ove t he i r
There are also several medical
conditions such as alopecia where
they lose all their eyebrows that gain
oI eyebrow shaping. Furthermore, iI they are in the beauty industry
a great deal oI selI-esteem knowing that cosmetic tattooing can greatly
and their services include designing, shaping and waxing eyebrows
restore their appearance.
they will Iind it much easier to advise clients on the correct shape Ior
their Iacial shape and bone structure, and they will be able to draw
beautiIul eyebrows Ior them.
The primary goal oI a cosmetic tattoo practitioner is to Iocus on

designing the eyebrows based on the individual's unique Iacial
II a client normally applied eyebrow pencil or designs the brows
morphology. This is the key to customising Ilattering eyebrows.
themselves daily and arrives at her appointment saying "I love my
Designing eyebrows Ior clients will come easier Ior some
eyebrows this way, this is how I want to have them tattooed", then you
practitioners than Ior others. Those who have had to draw their own
most likely have your template already set out Ior you. PerIectionists
eyebrows Ior years have an advantage oI being skilled in the practice
oIten take up to 20 minutes to get them right, so having them tattooed
Ach|ev|ng Eyebrow Perfect|on w|th 6osmet|c Tattoo
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Ior them is a great
relieI and a great
Now it will be up to the
practitioner to select
t he most sui t abl e
colour and style oI
tattoo suitable Ior her.
II you have diIIiculty
drawing eyebrows
another option is the
u s e o I B r o w
Templates. These are
cut out in diIIerent
shapes into a plastic
st r i p. They ar e
attached to a band
which is then strapped
around the Iorehead so
that you place the brow shapes where they will be best suited then you
and many Iunctions is important, not only Ior our cosmetic tattooing
pencil or powder the shape in. Using these takes a litte time and
results, but also Ior the saIety and proIicient wound management Ior
practice. Another successIul tool is using Calipens, which is a
our clients.
measuring device.
For accurate design work and to achieve successIul eyebrows it is
There are many diIIerent techniques in creating beautiIul eyebrows.
important to have a thorough understanding oI Iacial muscles that
aIIect the eyebrows, as there are many challenges. For example, you
will oIten Iind that a client will have a tendency to raise one eyebrow
more than the other. She has developed a habit oI using the outer
The most common is the PENCILLED/BLOCK or SOLID eyebrow
Irontalis muscle that can lead to wrinkles being Iormed in the lateral
technique. Here colour is tattooed into the skin leaving no skin
part oI the Iorehead. Observations such as these must be made. Ask
showing through, resulting in an all-over colour.
the client to close her eyes, then raise her brows, relax her Iace, while
you the artist gain a better understanding as to how her muscles are
working and gain a better idea where the placement oI the eyebrows
Another technique is the HAIRSTROKE/FEATHERED/
should be drawn to accommodate any adjustments.
EMBROIDERY/HAIR SIMULATION technique. In this instance
As proIessionals, we must
al s o have a wor ki ng
knowledge oI the diIIerent
layers oI the skin. The skin
has diIIerent layers that all
provide a particular Iunction.
It is made up oI multiple
layers oI cells and is the
largest organ in the body that
acts as a barrier to protect the
internal environment oI the
body against potentially
harmIul Iactors. The skin is
the major player in the
tattooing proIession. In many
instances it will dictate
needl e conI i gur at i ons,
machine speed, pigment
colour selection and will also
inIluence how soon your
client will need a Iollow-up
appointment. Because the
skin is the canvas on which
and within you will be
perIorming your procedure,
understanding its structure
colour is tattooed into the skin in small strokes Iollowing the shape oI
the drawn brow, shape and line oI the natural hair. A combination oI
colours can also be used to create a three-dimensional look that gives
the eyebrow the appearance oI volume.
There is a third technique where you can use a combination oI SOLID
COLOUR and HAIR STROKES. This gives a beautiIul tattooed
brow. At the Iirst visit a light colour is tattooed into the shape oI the
eyebrow, then at a Iollow-up or adjustment visit hair strokes can be
applied, with a third visit oIten also needed to perIect the technique.
This is when someone who has sparse eyebrows (even iI they have a
good shape) needs a background colour to deIine them.
As a proIessional cosmetic tattooist you should have a good colour
selection oI pigment lotions, Irom the lightest blonde (cool and warm)
to the darkest browns, taupe and brown/blacks.
A skilIully perIormed eyebrow tattooing procedure can give the whole
Iace a liIt, especially the eye area, and can oIten take years oII
someone's Iace. Clients are so much happier waking up with their
eyebrows in place, or going swimming or to the hairdressers knowing
that any water will not smudge or remove their eyebrows. They now
have a shape to Iollow iI they want to add extra depth. In Iact some
have commented that they Ieel like they have had a IaceliIt with the
end result.
When working with colour correction minor changes can make all the
diIIerence, but here you must have an extremely good understanding
oI not only your colours, but also how they will interact with the
client's skin colour. This is why updating your education is so
important in this proIession. There are certain aspects oI your work
that you can only Iully grasp once you have mastered the basics.
Further training needs to be layered on an ongoing basis as it is
amazing what you will continue to learn. AIter over 25 years in this
proIession I continue to invest in my education and this knowledge
collectively has contributed to me building a highly successIul
practice through a good reputation.
When undertaking a corrective procedure Irom another practitioner it
could be possible that it was never explained to the client that the
colour may not stay the same and may Iade with time. All colours
Iade, no matter where they are placed hair, clothing they all Iade
out over time and cosmetic tattooing is no exception. This is why iI it
is not kept reIreshed every couple oI years it will Iade and may leave a
residue in the skin oI either grey, orange, red or purple all this can
be colour corrected by an experienced cosmetic tattoo proIessional.
In the next issue oI APJ I will be discussing the all-important issue oI
colour and rules to eIIective colour selection as well as what is
"buyer's remorse" and how to avoid it.
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Jal Clover-Hovan is a multi-award winner and renowned internationally
for her techniques and teaching methods in
cosmetic tattoo. Jal will be speaking at the Aew
Horizons in Beauty & Wellness Expo and
Educational event to be held in Hervey Bay on the
21 Aovember 2ô1ô. For further details visit
Jal can be contacted for training advice or supplies
on 13ôô 88 ôô 55 or sales¡ or

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