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Even if you do not want to paint you kit, you can still use this tip.

First, you
can just mark the lines you want to detail. Just like making a line in paper. Dont
worry, the panel lines are deep enough so you wont need a guide. There are
however, some cases that you have to be careful coz there are shallow panel lines.
Once you finished marking it, leave it for 5 mins then you can clean the excess
with a soft cloth dabbed with alcohol! ;D Very effective for me! I found great
results doing it to my MG Freedom! ;)

The best methods is to use the wash technique. The idea is to use different type
of paint for base coat and panel lines that you can clean off the excess after
filling in the line, thus leaving only paint already been filled in recess area.
Provided that the paint used for your base coat is "stronger" than the wash, you
can easily get rid of the excess paint without harming the base.
In order from strongest to weakest is Lacquer, Enamel, and (water based) acrylic.
So for example, if you paint my model with lacquer, you can use diluted enamel
paint, and let it run through the groove. Then gently use tissue soaked with
enamel thinner, dab away the excess paint. At the same time, You can also use
enamel as a base and do the wash with acrylic. Since Enamel thinner is stronger,
acrylic won't eat into the enamel base coat.

Strangely enough, I have has success with using enamel to wash over acrylic base.
The key is to let the base paint dries thoroughly before proceeding with wash.
Both paints I tried with are Tamiya, BTW.

My current camera is Cannon's Kiss III (the lower end model for SLR), but most of
the photos on this site were shot using Cannon EOS50. I used macro lens for the
majority of the shots. For film, I prefer 100 ISO negative film. Mainly because
it's cheap, but also it has the finest grain. You have the option of blowing the
photo up later.

Perhaps the most important aspect to getting good photography is lighting (well,
composition helps, too). My main setup makes up of 2 light sources. One set above
the subject and the other on the side (laid diagonally from subject), with reflect
opposite of it. My cheapo reflects are made from Styrofoam board or foil. I also
use tracing paper to soften each light, so the cast shadow doesn't come out too

The pen:

Many people like very stark, and prominent panel lines. One of the best ways to
achieve this, is with the use of a dark technical pen, or specialized marker. You
can use this technique with any type of fine tipped pen, or even pencil for
subtler effects, but some of the favorite pens for this technique are Micron Pigma
disposable technical pens, Rapidograph technical pens, or Gunze Sangyo's Gundam
Markers. There is very little difference in the finished result of these various
pens, so you should probably choose which brand you use based on the availability,
color selection, tip size, and price range that best suits your needs.

Using the pen method is probably the easiest to explain of all of the methods. In
fact, all you do is literally draw the seam as you want it to appear on the model.
This is, of course, often easier said than done, but here are a few tips that will
help you with your experimentation.
This technique works best, with either a gloss paint job, or on bare plastic,
because then it is easiest to clean up mistakes. If you accidentally draw outside
the area you intended to, you can lightly wipe away the excess using a Q-tip that
is moist with either rubbing alcohol, or acetone, with little or no resultant
discoloration to the finish. If you are doing this on a painted surface, you
should test for compatibility on some scrap, before trying to wipe ink of an
actual model. Unfortunately, this technique does not work as well with matte
paints, as the ink will be absorbed into the matte pigment, thus causing edge
discoloration, and making it impossible to wipe away mistakes.

Tip size is very important to achieving the desired result. Optimally, the tip of
the pen should be narrow enough to rest on the bottom of the seam groove, without
touching the uppermost sides of the panel line groove, but wide enough that it
does not wobble from side to side along the bottom of the groove. It can take some
experimentation to find the tip size that works best for you, but the resulting
line will appear much smoother once you have found the correct size.

Play with colors. Varying up the colors can make a dramatic difference in the
final appearance. Think about the look you are going for. Many people like the
stark black look of a drawn cartoon, but lighter tones, or even colors like
reddish brown, can also be used to nice effect.

There is also a variation to the pen method, instead of markers, ink or paint, get
a mechanical drafting pencil [Stadtler brand, for instance] at an art or drafting
supply store. Be sure and get the kind that has a three or four jaw �chuck� at the
front [much like a drill] but NOT the kind that automatically advances the lead as
you click the end button... although the chuck-type pencil does use an end button
to free up the lead.

You'll also need to get inexpensive �lead� [polymer or graphite], which comes in
different hardness [try several kinds], and a sharpener specific to that type of
drafting pencil. You needn't get the expensive four-inch diameter metal kind: Mars
or Stadtler makes a perfectly workable one-inch diameter plastic sharpener for
them too [in either style the pencil sharpens via a sort of stirring motion in the
sharpener]. I used one for years as a tech illustrator. You'll also need to get a
grey kneaded eraser to clean up errors or smears.

Then just sharpen your lead to the panel line thinness you want and draw on the
model where you want, using plastic drafting templates and/or rulers as needed.
Goofs are easily fixable by simply erasing and redoing: much easier than
repainting! When the lines are done, spray over with matt or gloss finish to seal.

For variety/effect, you can also use conventional colored pencils.

The wash:

Another method for blacking panel lines is the use of thinned out paint, which is
then carefully applied to model so that capillary action will carry the paint
along the panel lines, since they are the lowest point on the surface.

This technique is much more difficult to master than the pen method, but has
several advantages that might make it worth the trouble, depending on the result
you desire. The biggest advantage to the wash method, is that it can be done with
any color of paint you desire, allowing for a greater range of effects that the
pen method. Another advantage is that when done correctly, it can produce a much
cleaner, and regular line than pens typically do.

The major disadvantage to this method is that if done incorrectly it can quickly
ruin a paint job, or even destroy a model. As such, I will go into a bit of detail
of what not to do when using a wash.

The first and most important thing to pay attention to when doing a wash, is what
you are using as a thinner. A common mistake is to use brush cleaner, or
turpentine/turpenoid as a thinner. This will eat through a plastic model and
destroy it, so don't do it! Another common mistake, is to use a thinner that is
corrosive to the previous layers of paint, this runs a high risk of destroying
your paint job, so be careful!

One of the best ways to safely apply a wash, is to do your base paint job in one
type of paint, clear gloss coat over your paint job with the same type of paint,
and then apply the wash with a less aggressive type of paint. This way you can
easily apply or even remove the wash with no fear of it effecting the paint you
laid down before the wash. As a general rule lacquer based paints, like Mr. Color
and ModelMaster Metalizer, are the most aggressive, closely followed by enamel-
based paints, like Humbrol or ModelMaster, with acrylics being the least
aggressive. Of course, these are just general rules, and I would recommend testing
various brands before actually trying a wash. However, if you are using a lacquer
or enamel paint, acrylics make a perfect wash, because you can thin them with
water, and clean them up with the same, thus risking no damage to your original
paint job.

All of that said, I will get to how to apply a wash. First, you want to thin the
wash color heavily. I will usually start with as much as 5 parts thinner (water
for acrylics) to 1 part paint, and then thin even more from there depending on the
effect I want. How much you thin depends on what you are trying to achieve, so you
just have to play with it a little to get the hang of it. Then you put the wash on
the model. How you put it on once again depends on what you are trying to do. Some
people only wish to darken the panel lines, and therefore apply the wash to the
edge of a panel line with a small brush, and allow capillary action to carry the
paint along the panel line. Others wish to darken all low-lying areas and details,
so will apply the wash to the entire surface area of the model part. Whichever way
you apply the paint, you can then wipe unwanted excess away with a Q-tip moist
with thinner. If the end result is not as dark as you would like, don't be afraid
to apply another wash, as long as the first wash has not completely cured, you
will still be able to cleanup with a Q-Tip.

1. Glossy finish. Very good for a wash. I use oil wash on all my panel wash. I use
an ordinary artist oil (actually I bought the expensive ones) Buy either Burnt
Sienna, Raw umber or Black. The first two are different shades of brown, kinda
good for a rusty panel lines. Just dab a very small amount of the artist oil in a
small container (Pringles cap will suffice). Then add a generous amount of
Odorless Mineral Spirit, long word for.... lighter fluid ;D Just add enough so
that you will have something like dirty water, or try to control the mixture to
your preference. After that, just get your inexpensive paint brush, then transfer
the wash to the panel lines, just point it on one corner, and let it run through
the panel lines, adding on where it stops. So for example you have 10mm. panel
lines, your first drip, might stop halfway, so you point your second drip there
till it completely cover the panel lines. Cleaning the excess... just use and
ordinary tissue paper, wetting it with a little bit of lighter fluid will help.

2. Flat finish. For me this is a better finish for Mechs, but panel wash will not
go well with this. You see when you use a panel wash with a flat finish, there are
2 problems. First, the drip will not travel far enough, compared to glossy finish,
so you will have more excess points on one strip of panel lines, compared to
glossy finish. Second, when you try to clean this excess, it will have the
tendency to spread to the surrounding area, creating a weathering effect. Actually
it can work to your advantage, if you are weathering your mech. But if you are
shooting for a clean flat finish, don't try the panel wash.

So for Flat finish , I recommend a Gundam panel marker. Although this marker is
only usable for 1/60 and 1/100 scales. Because on 1/144, the panel lines are
shrunk to proportions, and the marker will not go through it. If this is the case,
it is best to either finish your 1/144 in gloss, or...add an overcoat of gloss on
your flat finish and do the oil wash.

BTW. I airbrush all my kits. Hand brush will create the same problem as a flat
finish, although you might be using glossy paints. The brush stroke will serve as
collecting point for the wash, and you won't be able to clean the excess from your
panel wash easily.

To ensure a smooth surface, sanding is required.

� Flood the area with water. Keep the area flooded for as long as you are sanding.
This method is known as wet-sanding.
� Start off with 400 grit sandpaper. Sand in a circular motion.
� Progress onto 600 and then 1000.

The first step here is to make some sanding sticks. Sanding sticks will help you
sand flat against the part and not round off edges. Here's what you need:

* 400 Grit Wet-Dry Sandpaper available at Wal-Mart (you can use whatever grade
you want, I like the 400 for general sanding of parts, priming takes care of the
* Popsicle Sticks available at craft and dollar stores
* CA Glue
When your sticks are all dry, you'll want to wet sand the nubs into oblivion so
that they no longer appear. Dip the sticks into water and sand the nub. Keep
dunking the stick to wash away the plastic grit accumulating in the paper. The
water also helps keep dust down. Use an old toothbrush to brush away any sanding
residue leftover.

if its the paint application order, ok yung post mo. tamang order ang mga yan.
just don't forget to apply the decals first, if ever there's any, before putting
the gloss coat (before applying the wash method).

now with wash naman. "wash" method works well if the surface is gloss and smooth.
it will flow easy. not like if the surface is flat, the paint will have a hard
time to flow. so if you want a flat-finish product, apply the wash on a gloss
surface first, then, apply the flat coat when you're done detailing your kit. ;)

here's a sample of orders with decals:

1. base coat (preferrably gloss) > decals > gloss topcoat > wash or paneling >
flat topcoat
2. base coat (preferrably gloss) > gloss topcoat > decals > gloss topcoat > wash
or paneling > flat topcoat

1. base coat (preferrably gloss) > decals > gloss topcoat > wash or paneling >
gloss/semi-gloss topcoat
2. base coat (preferrably gloss) > gloss topcoat > decals > gloss topcoat > wash
or paneling > gloss/semi-gloss topcoat

for me, i always use the first number order. as much as possible i minimize the
use or overcoating of coats/topcoats. kumakapal eh. the first time i use this
method, nakapag-coat ako 3X. not to mention the base paint and some paint details
pa. kaya makapal sya. but now, since i use water color paints for panelings, kahit
di na ako mag-topcoat after the base coat, ok lang. since the water color is
water-based, madaling remedyuhan pag nagkakamali. :D kuha lang ako nang dampened
cotton balls, voila! bura ang paneling. ;)

so my ordering now is:

1. base coat (preferrably gloss) > decals > wash or paneling > flat topcoat
2. base coat (preferrably gloss) > decals > gloss topcoat > wash or paneling >
flat topcoat

i apply the number 2 option in case there's a hard panel painting on top of
decals. baka lagi akong magkamali, madudumihan lang ynug decals. so i need to
apply a gloss topcoat first after applying the decals, before moving to paneling.

ow can I make realistic battle scars w/o using an air brush?

there's some tips sa mga ibang forums. like,,

etc. you can use pastel chalks for weathering and details. remember, do not use
oil-based pastel. buy the ones like chalk. yung rectangular shape. oil-based ata,
is the rounded one.