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Tools and materials for the Bulletproof Glide (Jerk) Bait Fishing Lure

75mm x 15mm (3 x ) I used whitewood skirting board, this is low grade spruce and
about the lowest density wood I would use for this project. Harder
woods like beech, oak, ash, mahogany would work well and need
less added weight to sink them.

Double sided tape or none To stick template to wood
permanent glue

Bandsaw, jigsaw To cut lure blank out
Or coping saw

Alufibre 200gsm I used about 1/3 of an A4 sheet to cover this lure. It is often
available in small quantities on ebay but it is can also be found
at glass fibre reinforcement suppliers but normally in larger
quantities and it is often advertised as Silver Carbon Fibre.

A5 Polypropylene or

Scissors and scotch tape

Envirotex Lite Epoxy resin

Gloves, glue spreaders
This is to provide a mould surface. Both of these plastics are
used in things like file dividers and can often be found in art
shops in sheet form. A good Alternative is a smooth silicone
baking sheet from the supermarket. If you unsure about the
material test it with a small amount of epoxy, but remember
to leave to fully cure for a day before trying to remove it.
This is a low viscosity slow curing epoxy resin that maintains
good flexibility when cured and is also water clear. It is
normally available from craft suppliers, jewellery making
suppliers and some lure making parts suppliers.
These are the bits and pieces that I often pick up in the kids
craft section of the local supermarket.
And mixing cups

Small blowlamp

100 grit sandpaper Removing saw marks and cleaning up lure blank

400 grit wet dry paper scratching the cured composite to provide a key for other layers

5 minute epoxy

Electric Router and
6.5mm (1/4) Bearing
Guide tungsten carbide
Round over bit

Clamps and battens to same thickness as the lure body and also a thin piece of cardboard the same
thickness as the composite to make up the difference under tail and clamp.

Drill press and vice
Or a steady hand
2mm hss drill Drilling out the hook hanger holes and for pilot holes
8-10mm 5/16-3/8 Drilling out weight holes
Wood bit or hss drill

For the displacement vessel
Milk bottle, scissors, adhesive tape, measuring jug, scales, cling film

The blow lamp is for popping air bubbles trapped in the surface
film. As an alternative a hair dryer or heat gun will also work.
As the name suggests this is a fast setting epoxy that is
generally thicker than Envirotex and better able to fill gaps and
also a good sealer for the bare wood.
This is easiest method I found to successfully shape the edge of
the lure but there are some health and safety considerations.
Routing or cutting composite materials can create dust or
particles that can irritate and damage the skin, eyes and lungs.
I used a suitable respirator, glasses and a barrier cream. All
supplies should keep safety sheets for their products and I
would advise reading them and following their advice and
product instructions.
Casting the weights

Pewter or lead

Electric of gas hob melting pewter
Metals cup with spout

15mm (1/2) MDF

8-10mm (5/16 to 3/8) I found making the weights .5mm smaller than the cavity in lure
Wood or hss drill bit made it easier to fit them later.

Hooks and hardware

2x Size 1 treble hook I used VMC 9626ps treble hooks
2x 6mm ( ) Stainless Split rings
3 x 25mm x 1.5mm wire
(1 x .072 wire)
Stainless screw eyes

4mm (1/6) Balsa sheet
Modern Pewter is a nontoxic tin alloy of tin and copper with small
amounts of bismuth, antimony and sometimes zinc . It has a very low
melting point 180-220 C depending on the mix, its drawback is price
but it can be readily sourced from junk sales where it use in
ornaments like tankards which are often marked as pewter.
Lead on the other hand is toxic, my concern with using too often is
not poisoning fish from lost lures but poisoning myself but it easy to
find as scrap or to buy from roofing suppliers. It is also a lot denser
than pewter so volume wise less is required.
Other alternatives are brass bar or stainless ball bearings
These screw eyes are available from lure making suppliers such
as in the USA and Lureparts NL in Europe. I
generally make a slightly larger hole than the screw eye and fill it
with 5 min epoxy before pushing the screw eye home. I find this
gives a much better bond than wiping epoxy on the thread a
screwing it into a tighter hole
Good alternatives to making balsa caps for the weight hole covers
are 5min epoxy or wood filler.

8-10mm (5/16 to 3/8)
Leather or washer punch


Masking tape
Airbrush and Compressor
Createx White, black and red acrylic airbrush paint
Createx reducer (thinner)
Daley Rowney FW Shimmering blue ink
Helping hands stand For holding the lure while spraying
Heat gun or hair dryer For setting the paint

8mm half dome beads
Aluminium foil tape

Clear coating
Drying/Coating rack

Gloves, paintbrush, Envirotex, mixing pots, blowlamp
Mica powder In small amounts this adds a sparkle without effecting the
transparency or the clear coat. It is available online from craft
and carding suppliers.
Go Fish
This was made from a disco ball motor which runs off the
mains and has an rpm of 1.5 to 3. Paper clip wire is used to
hold the lure in position and a swivel at the other end lets it
rotate. Disco ball motors can be found online or at electronics