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03-On Yamaha WR250F & WR450F

Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual

Baja Designs 185 Bosstick Blvd. San Marcos Ca 92069

Phone 760.560.2252 Fax 760.560.0383

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Warranty: Baja Designs manufactures its own products as well as resells
products manufactured by others. Baja Designs makes no express or
implied warranties on products not manufactured by Baja Designs
including without limitation any warranties or merchantability and fitness
for a particular purpose. We will however, pass on all warranties made by
the manufacturer, who has sole responsibility for performing such
warranties. Baja Designs will repair or replace any item manufactured by
us that we judge to be defective in workmanship or material within 30 days
of shipment. We will not be responsible for any indirect or consequential
damages in connection with defective merchandise. Products used in
racing, competition or damaged by crash, abuse, or misuse are not

Indemnification: Buyer hereby acknowledges motorcycle riding is a dangerous sport
and that the products and/or supplies purchased from Baja Designs are
used in an inherently dangerous activity that may endanger life and limb;
and in no event shall the seller, or seller's heirs and assigns, be held liable
for consequential damages, nor shall seller's liability on any claim for
damages arising out of or connected with the sale, delivery, or use of
purchased products and/or supplies exceed the purchase price of the
products and/or supplies.

Dual Sport Kit: Installation of a Baja Designs Dual Sport kit by itself does not make
an off-road motorcycle street legal. Each state has different equipment
requirements for street legal motorcycles, including but not limited to such
items as DOT approved tires, left and right side mirrors, speedometers,
quiet exhaust, chain guards, and side reflectors. Contact your states
department of motor vehicles or highway patrol for a comprehensive list of
equipment that is required for street motorcycles before riding your bike on
the street.

Street Riding: Riding a motorcycle on the street is very different than off road
riding and requires special skills not learned off-road. Most states require
an additional license beyond an automobile drivers license to operate a
motorcycle on the street. Make sure to have the proper licensing and
skills before riding your bike on the street. Baja Designs recommends
contacting the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (800 446-9227) for a rider
course near you.

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Important - Please Read First:

The stator on electric-start WRs is not powerful enough to charge the stock battery and
run a full DC dual sport lighting system at the same time. For this kit to function
properly, a modification must be performed on the stock stator. If this is not done the
battery will discharge anytime the headlight is turned on regardless of bulb wattage.
This modification is critical since the bikes ignition is reliant upon the battery being
properly charged.

Baja Designs has provided stator modification instructions on page 12 of this manual as
well as the necessary hardware in the kit parts bag. Please read the stator modification
instructions in their entirety before beginning. This is a delicate modification that
requires soldering and crimping to the stator wiring. If you do not have the proper tools
or are not comfortable performing this type of work, do not begin. Baja Designs can
perform this modification for you for $30 (call 760.560.2252 for an order number.) If you
choose to perform this modification yourself it is critical that you be able to follow the
instructions exactly. Any errors will cause the stator to have to be rewound completely.

The stator bolts into the engines left case cover and does not require a flywheel puller
for removal.

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side panels.

2. Unplug the stock taillight and remove the rear fender.

3. Unplug and remove the headlight and stock kill button. For 03 models, unplug
and remove the factory on/off light switch from the stock wiring harness.

4. If not done already, reinstall the modified stator. Attach the two plastic plugs
from the stator to their corresponding mates from the stock wiring harness.

5. Rear Fender Installation: Install the supplied YZ rear fender using the
hardware from the stock fender. A slight modification to the plastic may be
required to provide clearance for the coolant overflow reservoir.

6. Taillight Installation: Attach the provided LED taillight to the underside of the
fender using the provided countersunk mounting hardware. Position it so that the
rear edge of the taillight lens lines up with the rear edge of the fender. Route the
taillight wires forward along the left side of the fender. Drill a few small holes
along the length of the taillight plastic to zip-tie the wiring in place to.

7. Rear Turn Signal Installation: You may attach the rear turn signals to either
the flat spots on the side of the taillight plastic or directly to the sides of the rear
fender depending on your preference. Run the turn signal wires forward to the
area on top of the airbox. Zip-tie the wires into place so the tire cannot contact
them when the suspension is compressed.

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8. Brake Light Switch Installation: The WR250/450 uses a hydraulic brake
switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a
specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the rear brake. If
you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a
qualified mechanic, as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable.

Remove the rear master cylinder
guard. Remove the bolt holding the
brake fluid reservoir to provide access
to the master cylinder. Loosen the
banjo bolt securing the rear brake line
to the master cylinder. Typically, this
bolt will be very tight and loosening it
will bend the support hanger for the
master cylinder if not supported.
Brace the master cylinder with a
wrench or lever. Remove the banjo
bolt and replace with the hydraulic
switch. Make sure to install the
copper crush washer from the stock
bolt under the switch. Torque the
switch assembly to 25 lb-ft.

Bleeding the Brakes: (Do not begin
this process unless you have a fresh
can of brake fluid) Re-install the brake
fluid reservoir and remove the lid.
Put the box end of 8mm wrench over
the brake bleed nipple and install the
bleed hose (supplied) tightly over the
nipple. Position the loop on the hose
above the nipple as shown in Photo 2
with the other end of the hose in a
container to catch the fluid. Crack the
bleed nipple open about 1/8 to a
quarter turn keeping the loop in the
hose vertical. Slowly depress the
brake pedal to fill the hose with fluid.
Pump slowly until you have brake
fluid extending up into the loop, then
you can pump the pedal fairly
aggressively to drive air out of the
system - The fluid above the bleed
nipple will prevent air from re-entering
the system. DO NOT LET THE
RESERVOIR GO DRY - ADD FLUID AS NEEDED. Pump the pedal until there
are no more bubbles, and then close the nipple with the wrench. Double check
that the pedal is firm and the brake works properly.

Brake Fluid
Photo 1

Keep loop
bleed nipple
8 mm
Photo 2

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Photo 18
Photo 3
9. Rectifier/Regulator Installation: The stock rectifier/regulator is not compatible
with the modified stator. It must be replaced with the Baja Designs
rectifier/regulator for the battery to charge.
On 03 & 04 WRs, the stock rectifier/regulator is
mounted to the frame on the right side of the bike
directly in front of the shock reservoir (Photo 3.)
On 05 WRs, the stock rectifier/regulator is
mounted to the left of the steering head. The Baja
Designs rectifier/regulator will replace it either
Unplug the two plastic connectors that
mate the stock rectifier/regulator to the
stock wiring harness. Remove the stock
rectifier/regulator (and its mounting bracket
on 03 & 04s) from the frame.

03 & 04 WRs

Photo 4
On 03 & 04 bikes, remove the bracket
from the stock rectifier/regulator and using
the same bolts, attach it to the new Baja
Designs rectifier/regulator oriented as
shown. Reattach the bracket &
rectifier/regulator to the bikes frame. See
Photo 4.
For 05 and newer bikes, attach the BD
regulator to the two studs you removed the
stock one from. See Photo 5.
Route the wires and attach them to the
wires that the stock rectifier/regulator
previously plugged into. Note that the
single wire connector from the new
rectifier/regulator does not have the same
locking feature that the factory connector
had. Wrap this connection with some
electrical tape to prevent it from separating.
See Photo 6.

Photo 5
Secure the wires with zip-ties.

Photo 6
tape here

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Photo 7
3/8 spacers
10. Switch Panel Installation: Install
the turn signal switch on the left
handlebar next to the grip as
shown in Photo 7. The switch has
two screws that join the two
halves together. DO NOT OVER
too much force can strip the body
of the switch. The clutch perch
may have to be moved to the right
to make room for the switch. Run
the wires along the underside of
the handlebar (so they cant be
crushed by tie-downs) and over
the front of the top triple clamp.

11. Hot Start Spacer Installation: Use the two 5x20 Phillips head screws & 3/8
aluminum spacers provided to space the hot start lever perch upward so it clears
the body of the new switch panel assembly. See Photo 7.

12. Horn Installation: Install the horn under the left hand bolt of the lower headlight-
mounting bracket as shown in Photo 8.

13. Turn Signal Flasher Installation: Mount to the upper right headlight mount
using the rubber bracket and a zip tie as shown in Photo 9.

Photo 9

Photo 8

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14. Middle Wiring Harness Installation: Locate the middle wiring harness provided
with the kit. It is the long black cable with a single white multi-pin connector at
each end. Position one of the two connectors (doesnt matter which each end
of this harness is identical) to the left of the steering tube and route the harness
back along the left side of the bike following the stock wiring harness. The rear
multi-pin connector should end up at the area on top of the airbox. We will attach
the connectors in the following steps.

15. Rear Wiring Harness Installation and Connections: Locate the rear wiring
harness provided with the dual sport kit. It has a white plastic 6-pin connector
with a series of sheathed power leads and a fuse extending from it. Do not
confuse this with the front wiring harness, which has a black 9-pin connector
Attach the 6-pin connector from the rear harness to its corresponding
mate from the middle harness on to of the airbox near the battery.
Attach the ring terminal from the fused lead to the positive side of the
Attach the remaining black un-fused ring terminal to the negative side of
the battery.
Attach the white plastic 3-pin connector from the rear harness to its
corresponding mate from the taillight.
Attach the green & black wire pair to the two wires from the right rear turn
signal. Polarity is unimportant.
Attach the brown & black wire pair to the two wires from the left rear turn
signal. Polarity is unimportant.
Route the red & blue wire pair down to the brake light switch and attach
the two wires. Polarity is unimportant.

The rear wire connections are now completed. Secure your wiring with zip-ties.

16. Front Wiring Harness, Front Turn Signal, and Headlight Installation: Locate
the front wiring harness provided with the dual sport kit. It has a white 6-pin
connector and a black 9-pin connector with a series of power leads extending
from them.
Attach the white 6-pin connector to its corresponding mate from the middle
wiring harness.
Attach the black 9-pin connector to its corresponding mate from the switch
panel assembly.
Attach the red/purple & pink wire pair from the front wiring harness to the
terminals at the back of the horn. Polarity is unimportant.
Attach the red/green & orange wire pair to the flasher attached to the
headlight. The red/green wire goes to the terminal labeled X and the
orange wire connects to the terminal labeled L.
Attach the black plastic H4 headlight connector to the three prongs from
the back of the headlight. The stock headlight connector will no longer be
used. The short green & brown wires coming from the headlight
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connector will remain unplugged for this installation. Do not attach
them together.
Attach the small 2-wire plastic connector to the factory connector that you
unplugged your kill button from.
Attach the green & black wire pair
from the 6-pin connector to the two
wires from one of the remaining
(front) turn signals. This will be
your right signal. Attach the brown
& black wire pair to the other
remaining turn signal. This will be
the left signal. Loosely mount the
front turn signals with the brackets
provided as shown in Photo 10
using the longer bolts included.
Install the headlight. Turn the
handlebars from side to side while observing the wires behind the
headlight. Make sure they move freely and do not pull or pinch against
the cables or other parts of the bike.

Photo 10

The installation is now complete. Proceed to the next section to check
your work.

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System Checkout

The switch panel in this kit
controls both the lighting and
ignition functions in one compact
package. Using the lighting
selector, push the switch to the
second P position. The rear
taillight should come on. The
brake light, turn signals, & horn
should function also. In this
second position, the bike will now
start, and the dual-sport kit will
function minus the headlight.
The third H position turns on the
headlight and allows the red
high/low button to function.
Note: The lighting selector switch
must be in positions two or three
for the bike to run.
If every thing is working properly
congratulate yourself on a job well
done. If not, dont worry, its not
rocket science and we should be
able to figure it out. All the
components were checked for
operation prior to being shipped to
you so something is probably not
connected correctly. See the trouble-shooting list in a later section.

Headlight on
Turn signal
Horn button
Engine kill
Wrapping it Up: It is important that all the wires be properly routed and secured.
Double-check the photos and sketches with regards to wire routing. Make sure the
wires do not pass over any sharp edges, are pulled overly tight, or can be crushed
by the seat, tank, fender, etc. Use all the zip ties provided to securely fasten the
wires. Any unwanted movement or chafing means early failure when off the road.
Note: When zip tying the wires; do so separately of the radiator vent hoses to the
overflow tank. There should be no ties around these hoses other than the ones that
were stock on the bike. Make sure all the silicone rubber connector boots and the
connectors are pushed firmly together and no bare metal is exposed. Put on the
seat, tank, and side panels, slide on down to your local DMV, and then go roost!

Removing and reinstalling the kit: To remove the kit, simply unplug the connector
that mates the middle harness to the rear harness and the connector that joins the
battery leads to the rear harness. Remove the dual sport rear fender with the rear
harness still attached to it and reinstall the stock fender. The middle harness stays
on the bike. The front signals can unbolt and unplug individually.

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Nothing Happens When You Turn the Power Switch On.
Main system fuse is blown. Check for bare wire or terminal shorting against the
frame or another wire.
Multi-pin connector not properly connected.
Battery connection poor. Make sure the connectors are fully seated.
Battery is dead. Measure voltage with voltmeter, or connect a 12 volt light across it.
Poor connection at the blue wire junction and the fuse lead.
Check blue lead from front wiring harness where it plugs into splice connector on
brown stock lead.
Main Yamaha push button switch with LED must be on.
The Turn Signals Wont Come On, or Wont Flash
The wires on the flasher are connected backward. The red wire goes to the terminal
labeled X.
Check turn signal wire connections.
Make sure you have connected the correct wires to the turn signals. Check
Battery voltage is low. If the battery voltage is low, the turn signals wont flash, or
will flash very slowly. Running the bike will cure this as well as charge the battery.
The Brake Light Wont Come On
The rear brake system is not properly bled.
Maybe its on already. Brake and tail connections are reversed. The brake light is
already on so their is no increase in light intensity when you activate the brake.
Check the yellow and blue taillight connections.
Short the two leads together at the brake switch. If the brakelight comes on, either
the brake switch is defective, or the brake system is not properly bled.
Everything Works Except the Headlight
The headlight selector switch must be on low beam or high beam.
Make sure the three prong connector is correctly plugged in and that the wires
leading to it are plugged into the harness.
Does the high beam indicator come on when the bike is running and high beam
selected? If so, the headlight bulb is burned out or defective.

If you still need assistance, call Baja Designs at (760) 560-2252 or email

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03-on Yamaha WR250/450F Stator Modification Instructions

This is a very delicate modification that requires crimping and soldering to the
stator wiring. If you do not have the proper tools or are not comfortable
performing this type of work, DO NOT BEGIN. Baja Designs can perform this
modification for you for $30 (call 760.560.2252 for an order number.) If you
choose to perform this modification yourself it is critical that you be able to
follow these instructions exactly. Any errors will cause the stator to have to be
rewound completely.

03-on WR stators are wound with two separate coil outputs from the factory. One
output charges the battery for the electric-start and the other output powers the stock
lighting via its own AC circuit (no battery backup.) In stock form the battery cannot be
used to power any lighting without becoming discharged. This modification joins the two
existing stator outputs together into one and is necessary anytime the stock battery will
be used to power a lighting system (such as a dual sport or HID system.) Once the
stator has been modified, the stock rectifier/regulator must be replaced with a
Baja Designs unit and the lighting system must be powered via DC from the
battery. The stock headlight connector can no longer be used as a lighting power
source. Failure to replace the rectifier/regulator or using the stock headlight
connector will result in the battery discharging.


1. Remove the seat and fuel tank.
2. Unplug the two plastic connectors that mate the stator wires to the main harness
between the radiators. Clip the factory zip-ties and un-route the stator wires so
they hang from the left engine case cover.
3. Lay the bike on its right side (to avoid draining the engine oil) and remove the left
case cover. Note that on WR450s one of the case bolts is hidden underneath
the starter reduction gear.
4. The stator is bolted into the left case cover. Remove it from the case along with
the pulsar coil (small black box) and the wire-retaining bracket.

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Photo 1
Brass tab
this clip

Photo 2
Cut through
clip directly
above wire

Photo 3

Photo 4 Pull up wire
and scrape


1. Lay the stator on a flat work surface
as shown in Photo 1 with the yellow
and white wires facing down. There
are three groupings of clips that the
copper wires attach to. Locate the
one that has the brass tab coming
out from the bottom.

2. Using a Dremel (or equivalent) high speed cut-off wheel, CAREFULLY cut
through the clip that secures the single copper wire. The goal is to free the
copper wire from the clip without damaging the wire. See Photos 2 & 3. Note
that if you break the copper wire, the stator will have to be rewound so be extra
careful when performing this step.

3. Once the clip has been cut, grab the
wire with a pair of needle nose pliers
and carefully bend it up out of the
clip slot. Use a sharp blade to
scrape the layer of brown enamel
coating from the last of the wire
to expose shiny bare copper. See
Photo 4. Remove any leftover clip
material that could fall out of its slot
after removing the wire.

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4. Use needle nose pliers to squeeze
the two tabs that lock the black
plastic guide bracket into the stator
and remove it from the stator. See
Photo 5.

Photo 5 Squeeze to
plastic guide

5. Turn the stator over and unsolder the
yellow wire from its tab retaining as
much wire as possible. See Photo 6.

Photo 6 Guide
Yellow wire

6. Locate the strip of black sheathing in
the hardware bag. Slide this
sheathing over the yellow wire you
just unsoldered and turn the stator
back over as shown in Photo 7.

Photo 7
Sheathing on
yellow wire

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7. Locate the crimp connector in the
hardware bag. You will use this to
join the yellow wire you just
unsoldered to the copper wire you
scraped. Insert the stripped yellow
wire into one end of the crimp
connector and insert the scraped
copper wire into the other so theyre
side by side inside the connector.
Carefully crimp the connector so
these wires are locked in together.
Once crimped, heat it up with a
soldering iron and lightly solder the
connection as shown in Photo 8.

Photo 8

8. Once cooled, slide the piece of sheathing over the new crimp connection.
Carefully bend the copper wire to the side in the clockwise direction. Route the
yellow wire between the posts directly in front of where the white wire is attached
and reinstall the plastic guide bracket so the two wires are trapped like they were
originally. The bracket should hold enough tension on the wire so the sheathing
cannot move from its spot over the crimp connection. See Photos 9 & 10.

Photo 9 Sheathing Route yellow
wire through

Photo 10
Guide reinstalled
with wires

The modification is now complete. Before reinstalling the stator you can check your
work by verifying with an Ohmmeter that the yellow and white wires from the stator
have continuity only with each other and not with the metal body of the stator. There
should be very low resistance (approximately .5 Ohm) between the yellow and white
wires. If it looks good, go ahead and reinstall the stator onto the motorcycle.

The stock rectifier/regulator MUST be replaced with a Baja Designs unit once this
modification has been performed. If not, the battery will not charge.

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Baja Designs
185 Bosstick Blvd.
San Marcos, CA

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