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CLASSIC BISTRO 1

Moules Mariniere
Portarlington Mussels with Saffron

Sugar Cured Ocean Trout with Quenelles and a Saffron Sauce

Crepinette of Boned Oxtail and Beef Cheek with Glazed Turnips and Swedes

Corn-fed Chicken with Leeks, Thyme and Verjuice

Tart Tatin

Pithiviers

Moules Mariniere
A Pot of Portarlington Mussels and Saffron

Ingredients
2 kg of Black Cultivated Mussels
2 Leeks
2 Cloves of Garlic
2 Small Carrots
1 Bayleaf
1 Stick of Celery
Good Pinch of Saffron Powder or Threads Crushed in a Mortar
150ml of Good Resiling
150ml of Noilly Prat Vermouth
Pinch of Fennell Seeds
Pepper
2 Drops of Tabasco or Pinch of Fresh Chillies

Method
Wash and de-beard mussels under cold running water. Set aside in a colander. Cut
vegetables - carrots, celery, leeks, garlic - into fine julienne. Saute with a
little olive oil for 2 minutes. Add wines, bayleaf, fennel seeds, pepper and
chilli or tabasco and cook for 1 minute.

Add mussels and cook on high heat with a tight fitting lid until all mussels have
opened - about 3 mins. Do not overcook as the mussels will toughen. At Sunnybrae
we serve this dish in the pot in which they have been cooked, straight to the
table or in a large serving bowl. Be sure to serve a ladle and soup spoons as the
remaining liquor is one of the highlights of the dish (the shells are often used
as a spoon at the end).

Crepinette of Boned Oxtail and Beef Cheek with Glazed Turnips and Swedes
Ingredients
200gm Crepinette Well Washed
2 Oxtails

4 Slice very thinly and serve.Chopped A Little Flour 400ml of Beef Stock (optional but very good) 150ml Good Red Wine (or you can use water) 18 Peeled Small Turnips 3 Peeled. The resulting sauce should be unctuous and delicious.season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Cut into ¼'s (keep these in water with a little lemon juice) Method Place vegetables. as with a large meatball. Check to see it has not cooked dry after about 2 hours and add some more stock or water if necessary. meat vegetables and form into round balls. Serve with mashed potato to soak up the juices. Place weight on top and refrigerate for 2 hours. Brown oxtail.1kg of Beef Cheek Well Trimmed 6 Slices of Smoked Pork Fat or Bacon (optional) 2 Onions 2 Leeks 2 Carrots 2 Sticks of Celery 4 Cloves of Garlic Small Piece of Smoked Bacon ¼Hot Chilli . Taste and adjust . Mix oxtail meat with braised vegetables . 2 Cover fillets of trout with mixture and wrap in aluminium foil. Add peeled turnips and swedes to baking dish and finally add stock and bake uncovered until the turnip and swedes are cooked .it will sit on top and solidify. Carefully wrap in crepinette and place on a baking tray.about 15 mins. Seal tightly with foil and bake until the meat falls off the bone . Cut crepinette into 4" squares and layer bacon. Sugar Cured Ocean Trout with Quenelles and a Saffron Sauce Course Salt Coffee Crystals Dill Brandy or Vodka Fresh Fillets of Ocean Trout Method 1 In a food processor. 3 Wash off marinade and brush with olive oil and Brandy. Remove the fat from the stock (this is easily done if placed in the freezer for ½ hour . Turn over and keep refrigerated for another 2 hours. and cheek in one piece on top. Small Swedes. When cool enough to handle remove oxtail and cheek and strain remaining liquid. cleaned and cut into small pieces.about 3½ hours. Season lightly and add stock til ½ way up the sides of the baking dish. cheek and oxtail. in a baking dish. Remove the meat from the bone of the oxtail and cheek and form into 6 even serves. coffee crystals (200g per kilo) and 50g of fresh dill. Add 50 ml of Brandy or vodka. but do not discard vegetables or stock. . dusted with flour. grind up equal quantities of coarse sea salt.

To look at it you might well expect it to be eccentric. Place vegetable julienne on the plate. surround with ocean trout. add egg whites and process. Finish with a little more sauce over vegetables. Cut to gastronome size in the trays. 6 Place a little sauce on the plate. Sprinkle with tiny capers. and brings only the calming taste of certitude. 5 Poach vegetable julienne in fish stock. with the "wait and see" attitude of the British. 2 Add cream (very cold) and process again. puree in food processor. certainly elbows on the table. 4 Slice sugar-cured ocean trout (see demonstration). of humor. are the patina of time itself. Slow cooking means solidity of character. Place quenelles on plate. 3 To assemble dish poach quenelles on paper in fish stock in moderate oven (10 minutes). if not exactly down to earth. 2 Add cold butter and whish quickly to a lustrous sauce. surrounded by its intimate fragrance. the evidence of its patience and its . it is. And so this caudal extremity has ne'er a sting in it.poach a little and taste. a queue de boeuf en hochepot. Add cream and reduce to a syrup. The time it takes to cook an oxtail is always a good investment for those who truly love good food. but on the contrary. SAFFRON SAUCE ½ kg Shallots ¼ Litre Fish Stock 100ml Noilly Pratt Vermouth 30gm Butter 250gm Cold Butter Cut Into Cubes 10ml Cream ½ gm Saffron Method 1 Cut shallots finely (sauté in butter). The blond shimmers with their shadings of red-brown on the surface of an oxtail stew. 4 Shape into quenelles and set on silicone paper. 3 Season and pass through a moulli . we shall gladly wait the necessary three or four hours that are worth their weight in gold. OXTAIL "Oxtail is one of the dishes that come into the category of the braisés. Without Bones 300gm Cream 150gm Egg Whites Salt and Pepper Method 1 Chill fish.QUENELLES 500gm Fresh Salmon Fillets. of appetite. Waiting with a reassuring patience. And before seeing it softly nestling in its braising dish. add fish stock and Noilly Pratt.

by Robert Courtine. and just slightly flirtatious woman. and thatiti came to Paris in clogs. needless to say: there can be no Latin fantasy in a braised oxtail . gentle knight and poet. for example. which according to Curnonsky is "pure. their big appetites. that perfect. No useless ebullience if you please. like the light from its skies.when this century was still only a few years old . Straus and Giroux." In fact. if I may so express it. because I don't even have two first names to put to the memory of their anonymous faces." (From The Hundred Glories of French Cooking. the fief of Maurice Genevoix's novel Raboliot. But of course it's not the same thing at all. by damp jackets hanging to dry in the great hearth. noble. it is the logical end to the traditional fortifying. for it is a true representation of the cookery of the Orléanais region.repose. Lamotte-Beuvron. And on one occasion I even heard a be-diamonded parrot assure someone that she had known the Monsieur Tatin in question. I speak of the northern Italians. I would never dare to ask for the distinguished tart in her dining room. Talk and drink are flowing with equal generosity. and in which a meal eventually starts to cost twice what it would in one of the great restaurants. restorative evening repast. the Hotel Tatin. It is the feminine note in a meal for men. Charles d'Orléans himself. for fear of hurting it with their big boots. Any dish venturing to enter the menu with tiny mincing steps at such a moment could only be a disaster: a tartelette. wrote of the hunts of the Saulongnois and the Bearsserons for autumn partridges and hares. their coarse tongues.I mean the hunter's. The Italians defiantly counter the Flemish hochepot with their coda in vaccinara and delight in it as much. opposite the railroad station. In Lamotte-Beuvron. but about ten years ago the tart Tatin suddenly became all the rage. the Hotel Tatin still exists. by boots. And in such places you will hear the diners going into ecstasies over their "upside-down tart" (the other name for the tart Tatin). in Lamotte-Beuvron. It is the inevitable complement to the minks one sees in all those bistroquets that Paris Society (which one can't help thinking of sometimes as enemy number one of society) will suddenly seize upon and besiege until they become quite untenable. like the lines of that province's very landscape. The diners would not dare to eat it. Farrar. And because I never knew the Demoiselles Tatin.the uninitiated. it has always been hunting country. like the French they speak there. Whereas this tart Tatin is a country girl who's seen a thing or two. Its proprietress may well be the best cook in the world. After the chase across the autumn stubble. as it was born) is our only legacy from two old maids who at one time . 1973) TART TATIN "It has figured on the menu at Maxim's for decades now. They obviously don't know that it was born in a country inn. together with Salbris. New York. Or rather. It has won its spurs. that slightly sad but very taking region. As they enjoy it they may even think to themselves that perhaps it isn't quite at home at Maxim's. An innkeeper's daughter. It is distinguished in its very conception. But preserving a great fund of simplicity that can still surprise -to say the least.quite the contrary. and simple. Distinguished less because of its present fame that in itself. In fact this delicious tart (delicious when made simply. is the hunting center of the Sologne. and this tart Tatin is above all a contribution to the warrior's . I don't know how it happened. it has acquired the assurance of a beautiful.victory. Yes.ran their family hotel. garlanded with delicious little strawberries. eaten in the slightly stuffy and smelly atmosphere exhaled by game bags. Just calm certainty. . where the gleaming ponds in the autumn mists are traps set for our imagination.

Straus and Giroux. It ought also to say that Pithiviers grew up around a church built over the tomb of Salomon III. Inhabitants known as pithivériens. and after the Moors were finally defeated at Poitiers the saffron industry became established on the river Oeuf and flourished there in the Middle Ages.122. king of Brittany in the ninth century. New York.accommodating. not averse to a jest. 1973) PITHIVIERS "Pithiviers: chief town of the arrondissement of Loiret. In truth. dear unknown ladies I refer to as old maids. However. saffron penetrated as far as Pithiviers. She can laugh a merry laugh and take a joke.according to Virgil anyway . like all those of honest innkeepers' daughters. dear Mesdemoiselles Tatin. the bishop of Armenia. 1973) . We know that the Sybartes . And lastly. it is many a long day now since saffron ceased to be anything more than just another . Lark pies. New York. or even a glass or two of marc brandy. she's not just a nobody! She has a sharp side to her tongue as well. and nowadays its role as "fun thing" and orgy-inducer seems to have been taken over by marijuana." (From The Hundred Glories of French Cooking.not much used ." (From The Hundred Glories of French Cooking.spice. Sixteenth-century château. Farrar. tributary of the Essonne. this tart is perhaps the first and now eternal smile of your girlish spring. by Robert Courtine. cakes known as pithiviers. and his relics attracted numerous pilgrimages. also died here. Her nest will be nicely feathered. you who were also young once. by Robert Courtine. One or two glasses of wine won't scare her away. But careful all the same. having been introduced from Arabia by the Moors. Farrar. The dictionary is too terse by half. but you mustn't assume she's a nobody. Straus and Giroux. you may be sure. St Gregory. as we all were. even though she's all dimpled sweetness at the moment.used to drink saffron before putting on their saffron wreaths and hurling themselves into their orgies. on the river Oeuf. Population: 9.

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