Nonlinear Buckling of Woven Fabrics Part I: Elastic and
Nonelastic Cases
R. D. Anandjiwala1
Abstract The fabric buckling model proposed National Fibre, Textile and Clothing Centre, CSIR
by Grosberg and Swani has been modified by Manufacturing & Materials Technology, and Department
incorporating Huang’s bilinear bending rule. The of Textile Science, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan
proposed model is an extension of the present University, Port Elizabeth, South Africa
model and also covers the special cases. The
numerical results appear realistic and conform to J. W. Gonsalves
the trend observed by other researchers. The Department of Mathematics and Applied Mathematics,
effects of fabric bending parameters on the buck Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, Port Elizabeth
ling behavior of woven fabrics were explored by 6000, South Africa
numerical computations. The second part of this
paper includes the recovery from largescale buck
ling of woven fabric.
The buckling, bending and drape behaviors of a woven fab started with the classical paper by Grosberg and Swani [5]
ric influence its performance during actual use and during who built a simple buckling model based on Grosberg’s ide
the process of makingup into the end product. These prop alized bending rule [6], taking into account the frictional
erties are important, particularly when the fabric is limp, effect and following the principles of elastic buckling theory
resulting in largescale deformation even under small applied for struts reported in classical mechanics [7, 8]. Their model
forces [1]. The buckling properties of a woven fabric also assumed an infinitely large bending rigidity of the cloth for
influence the sewing of garments and their resultant quality. the initial nonlinear region of the bending curve where the
Moreover, the development of robotized sewing opera applied couple had not yet overcome the frictional restrain
tions for reducing unit production cost is critically important ing couple. They noted, however, that, in practice, real fab
if garment industries in developed countries are keen to rics are fairly rigid for the initial bending region, but they
improve their competitiveness visàvis low labor cost coun are not infinitely rigid as assumed in the idealized bending
tries [2, 3]. This has placed a great responsibility on textile rule [6]. Nevertheless, they continued to build their buck
engineers to develop appropriate mathematical models ling model on the basis of the idealized bending rule in
which are capable of providing realistic information with order to avoid the complications arising from the additional
minimum complexities, mathematical drudgery and com mathematical treatments required to obtain the precise
putational cost. Of course, these models should be based on solutions.1 Clap and Peng [2, 3] later developed a model by
logical assumptions reflecting the real physical phenomena, utilizing Timoshenko’s elastica theory [8] in which they
yet simple to solve for simulating real fabric behavior. assumed the fabric as a curved beam of constant crosssec
The complexity of textile mechanics in solving the above tion. They introduced the effect of fabric weight, which was
problems is complicated by the fact that this discipline of ignored by Grosberg and Swani [5], but again followed the
textile science, despite considerable research efforts, is based same frictional restraining principle of infinite initial bend
on divergent approaches rather than on sound fundamental ing rigidity as proposed by Grosberg [6]. More recently,
concepts developed after debate and criticism and vali Kang et al. [9] used regression analysis to fit an exponential
dated by competent researchers for universal acceptance function to initial nonlinear fabric bending behavior and
[4]. The mechanics of the buckling behavior of woven fabric
is not an exception, as seen from the large number of differ
1
ent approaches found when scanning the literature. It Corresponding author: email: ranandi@csir.co.za
Textile Research Journal Vol 76(2): 160–168 DOI: 10.1177/0040517506057957 www.trj.sagepub.com © 2006 SAGE Publications
Nonlinear Buckling of Woven Fabrics. Part I: Elastic and Nonelastic Cases R. D. Anandjiwala et al. 161 TRJ
utilized the derived relationship in building a buckling
model similar to that proposed by Clap and Peng [2, 3]
Theoretical
based on the assumption that the fabric is a continuum of a
thin solid beam. The governing equations of Timoshenko’s Consider a piece of fabric, of length l, buckled under a ver
tical point force P to create a largescale deflection as
elastica theory [8] and the Bernoulli–Euler’s theorem from
shown in Figure 1, with the one end of the fabric fixed at
classical mechanics could therefore be directly employed. It
the origin O of the Cartesian coordinates. The compressed
may be argued, however, based on detailed analyses of var
ious authors, that the bending behavior of a real fabric is height Y of the fabric under the force P along the Yaxis is
given by Y = 2yA + y2 as shown in the figure. Let OZ be
markedly different from that of a symmetrical solid beam
the half length of the fabric and the deflection of the fabric
[6, 10, 11]. Unlike the classical beam theory in solid mechan
at Z along the Xaxis be denoted by D. It is assumed that
ics, the bending curves of real fabric above and below the
neutral axis do not exhibit the same magnitude of exten the fabric obeys Huang’s bilinear bending rule as given
below [12]:
sion and contraction. In fact, the fabric experiences a pro
gressively increasing extension above the neutral axis and
progressively increasing compression below the neutral M
K =  M ≤ Ma (1)
axis. B*
Huang [12] modified Grosberg’s [6] idealized bending
rule by incorporating bilinearity, which was further utilized
by Leaf and Anandjiwala [13] in proposing a generalized
model of a plain woven fabric and subsequently for modify
ing Huang’s extension analysis [14]. Although, Kang et al.
[9] have utilized Huang’s bilinearity in their model, the
obvious inconsistency of applying the classical beam theory
to the textile problem remains. Frictional restraint to bend
ing of the fabric arises from interfiber frictional forces
resulting from the fact that the fibers act as individual units
and do not form a solid beam. Nevertheless, it is interest
ing to note that Kang et al. [9] themselves have observed
better results when incorporating Huang’s bilinear bending
behavior [12] into their model than when using their own
exponential function. This reaffirms our belief in the bilin
ear bending rule [12], which is a more reasonable and real
istic approximation of the real bending behavior of yarn
and fabrics, and relatively easy to handle in mathematical
analysis in comparison with the exponential nonlinearity
proposed by Kang et al. [9] and the quadratic nonlinearity
by Abbott et al. [10].
In this paper we have modified Grosberg and Swani’s
buckling theory [5] for woven fabric by introducing Huang’s
bilinear bending rule [12]. The assumption of infinitely high
initial bending rigidity of the fabric in their model [5] is thus
removed. The proposed theory also eliminates obvious incon
sistencies in several earlier approaches [5–7, 10, 14] based
on Grosberg’s idealized bending rule. The methodology of
the theoretical treatment employed here is similar to that
proposed in an earlier paper by Leaf and Anandjiwala [13]
but is further suitably modified to accommodate both Gros
berg and Swani’s model [5] and elastic buckling theory of
classical engineering mechanics [7, 8] as special cases. A
numerical solution of the model is developed and numeri
cal results are presented to study the effect of fabric bend
ing parameters, such as initial and final bending rigidities,
B* and B, respectively, and transition couple, Ma on the
buckling of woven fabric. Figure 1 Force–compression curve of a buckled fabric.
TRJ 162 Textile Research Journal 76(2)
π
M M–M
K = *a + a M > Ma F k *,  and F ( k *, φ A* ) are complete and incomplete ellip
(2) 2
B B
π
tic integrals of the first kind, and E k *,  and E ( k *, φ A* )
2
where K is the curvature, M is the moment, Ma is the transi
are complete and incomplete elliptic integrals of the sec
tion couple and B* and B are the initial and final bending
ond kind.
rigidities, respectively. The point A (xA, yA) in Figure 1 is a
Consider now a general point P (x, y) on AZ such that it
boundary point at which the applied moment M begins to
follows the bending rule given in equation (2) and the arc
overcome the transition couple which is related to the fric
length OP is given by s. At the boundary point Z, ψ = 0,
tional couple, Mo, proposed by Grosberg [6] by the follow
s = l/2 = (l1 + 0.5l2), x = D and y = (yA + 0.5y2). Follow
ing relationship:
ing the methodology proposed in a previous paper by Leaf
and Anandjiwala [13] the governing equations for the sec
Mo tion AZ are as follows:
M a =  (3)
1 –  B

B* l B
 =  { F ( k, φ A ) } + l 1 (10)
2 P
Consider now any general point P (x, y) on the bending
curve which lies between the origin, O and the midpoint of B
the fabric denoted by Z. The angle subtended by the tan D = 2k  ( 1 – cosφ A ) + x A (11)
P
gent to any point P (x, y) with respect to Yaxis is denoted
by ψ and the angle at the origin, which is a point of inflex y2 B
ion, is denoted by θ.  =  { 2E ( k, φ A ) – F ( k, φ A ) } (12)
2 P
Next consider a general point P (x, y) on OA such that it
follows the bending rule given in equation (1) and the arc where,
length OP is given by s. At the boundary point A, s = l1,
x = xA and y = yA. Following the methodology proposed in 2
Ma
 1 – *
2 B
a previous paper by Leaf and Anandjiwala [11] the govern k = k * –  (13)
ing equations for the section OA are as follows: 4PB * B
– 1 k * sin φ *
B* π φ A = sin 
A (14)
l1 =  F k *,  – F k *, φ*A (4) k

P 2
ψz = 0 (15)
B*
x A = 2k *  cos φ*A (5) The fractional compression δ is then given by:
P
2y A + y 2
δ = 1 – 
 (16)
B * 2 E k *, π
 – E k *, φ*A 2l 1 + l 2
yA = 
P 2
(6) Where F(k, φA) and E(k, φA) are the incomplete elliptic
π integrals of the first and the second kind, respectively.
– F k *,  – F k *, φ*A
2
Grosberg’s Buckling Model
where
Grosberg and Swani [5] assumed a bending law [6] in which
θ the initial bending rigidity B* tends to infinity and therefore
k * = sin  (7) the initial region OA was assumed to be a straight line with
2
curvature K = 0, which implies that (B/B*) = 0, therefore,
from equation (3) Ma = Mo. By substituting this in equa
M a2
ψ A = cos cosθ + 
–1
 (8) tions (4) to (15) and deriving the simple trigonometric rela
2PB * tionships for the initial straight line region OA, the
following is obtained:
ψ A
sin 
–1

φ*A 2
= sin  (9) π M
l =  F k,  + o cosecθ
B (17)
k* 2 P 2 P
Nonlinear Buckling of Woven Fabrics. Part I: Elastic and Nonelastic Cases R. D. Anandjiwala et al. 163 TRJ
M B/l2 as unit force and l as unit length. Then the governing
D = 2k B
 + o (18)
P P equations in nondimensional forms were solved for a
2
Pl
known nondimensional force, P =  , fabric bending
y2 π π B
 =  2E k,  – F k, 
B (19)
2 P 2 2
Ma l 2 B
parameters, such as, M a =  and λ = * and by esti
B B
mating the value of θ which is unknown. The computation
M
y A = o cotθ (20) was continued until the initial estimate of θ is modified to
P satisfy the known boundary conditions, namely, l = 0.5 and
Equations (18) to (21) are identical to the buckling ψZ = 0 within specified tolerance limits. From the calcu
model reported by Grosberg and Swani [5]. lated values of the parameters, the fractional compression,
Pl 2
δ, was calculated for a known nondimensionless force  .
B
Elastic Buckling Model Pl 2
Thus, by systematically varying the values of  in a realis
The elastic buckling theory in classical mechanics assumed B
a linear relationship between moment and curvature, tic range, a theoretical buckling curve for a woven fabric
ignoring the effect of the frictional couple which influences can be plotted for the known fabric bending parameters.
the behavior of textile materials, such as yarns and fabrics. Ma l 2 B
 , λ = 
The values of M a =  , B and B* were system
This implies that Ma = 0 and B = B*. When substituting B B*
these values in equations (4) to (16) equations are atically varied within a range to study the effect of fabric
obtained that are similar to the buckling of a strut reported bending parameters on the buckling of the woven fabrics.
in standard textbooks of mechanics [7, 8]. The corresponding buckling curves for two special cases
discussed above were also calculated.
Numerical Results and Discussion Effect of Ma and λ2
Figure 2 shows the theoretical buckling curves of woven
The governing equations for solving the model proposed
above were converted into nondimensional forms by using fabrics for different values of λ2 at a constant value of M a =
Figure 2 Effect of λ2 on fabric
buckling for (a) M a = 0.5, (b) M a =
0.75, (c) M a = 1.0 and (d) M a =
1.25.
TRJ 164 Textile Research Journal 76(2)
Pl 2 Ma l
Table 1 Calculated values of the nondimensionless force,  , at various values of percentage compression, M a = 

B B
and λ2.
M a = 0.5 M a = 0.75 M a = 1.0 M a = 1.25
% compression 10 30 50 10 30 50 10 30 50 10 30 50
Grosberg 13.66 13.67 15.01 15.27 14.67 15.85 16.85 15.66 16.68 18.41 16.65 17.51
λ2 = 0.3 13.00 13.27 14.68 14.28 14.07 15.35 15.54 14.86 16.01 16.78 15.64 16.67
λ2 = 0.5 12.02 12.66 14.17 12.81 13.16 14.59 13.58 13.66 15.01 14.34 14.15 15.42
11.04 12.06 13.66 11.35 12.26 13.83 11.65 12.46 13.99 11.94 12.65 14.16
λ2 = 0.8
10.39 11.65 13.32 10.39 11.65 13.32 10.39 11.65 13.32 10.39 11.65 13.32
Elastica
Ma l graphs, different values of M a and λ2 are chosen in this

 . The value of M a is also changed systematically as shown computation in comparison to Figure 2. The values of λ2
B
in Figure 2a to d. For each value of M a , the values for λ2 are are also varied as shown in Figures 3a to d. From these fig
systematically varied from 0, for Grosberg’s case, to 0.2, 0.5 ures, in general, as the value of M a increases at a constant
and 0.8 for the bilinear buckling model. Furthermore, the value of λ2, the load required to buckle the fabric at a con
stant percentage compression level also increases. The
elastic buckling case is plotted for M a = 0 and λ2 = 1.0 for
increase in M a at a constant λ2 (ratio of B to B*) implies
comparison with the theoretical curves. The numerical
the requirement of a higher frictional couple which
results obtained from the present model are consistent with
opposes the initial bending of the fabric due to the restric
results reported by other researchers [2, 3, 5, 9]. As expected,
tion of yarn slippage at interlacings and also due to inter
at constant value of M a , in general, the load required to fiber frictional resistance which prevents easy bending of
buckle the fabric at the same percentage compression level the fibers in the yarns, leading to increased resistance to
increases as the value of λ2 decreases from 1 for elastic buckling. Table 1 also shows the calculated values of the
buckling to 0 for Grosberg’s case, other values of λ2 taking nondimensional force for different values of M a at con
intermediate values in decreasing order, for the bilinear stant values of percentage compression and λ2. At λ2 = 0.5
buckling model. The corresponding values of the calculated and percentage compression = 30, the calculated values of
Pl 2 the nondimensional force are 12.66, 13.16, 13.66 and 14.15
nondimensional force  , at various values of M a , per for corresponding values of 0.5, 0.75, 1.0 and 1.25 for M a ,
B
centage compression and λ2 are given in Table 1 for better respectively. The increase in M a at a constant λ2 (ratio of B
clarity of the observed trends. As can be seen from Table 1, to B*) also implies increased hysteresis in bending. The
the values of the nondimensional force increases from effect of hysteresis in bending on buckling and recovery
11.65 for elastic buckling to 13.67 for Grosberg’s model for will be discussed in detail in the second part of this paper.
M a = 0.5 and percentage contraction = 30; the bilinear The results obtained here are consistent with the published
model giving intermediate values of 12.06, 12.66, and 13.27 reports by other researchers [2, 3, 5, 9]. To compare the
bilinear buckling model with the elastic buckling and Gros
for λ2 values of 0.8, 0.5 and 0.3, respectively. The trend
berg’s models, they have also been plotted on the same
observed is consistent in all cases as can be seen from Table 1.
graph as shown in Figure 3. As expected, these two special
This is due to the fact that the bending resistance of the fab
cases of the present model occupy two extreme positions.
ric in elastic buckling is minimal and progressively increases
Once again, the elastic buckling model underestimates the
as the value of λ2 decreases, with the maximum bending required buckling load whereas that of Grosberg’s model
resistance at λ2 = 0 for the Grosberg’s model, where the overestimates it. The present model, therefore, provides
initial bending region is assumed to be infinitely rigid. This the necessary correction to these two extreme theoretical
implies that the elastic buckling case underestimates the cases, which is based on the experimentally measurable
required buckling load, whereas Grosberg’s model overes bending parameters.
timates it. The present model, based on the bilinear bend
ing rule, therefore, provides the correction to these two
extreme theoretical cases, which is based on the experimen Effects of Initial (B*) and Final (B) Bending
tally measurable bending parameters. Rigidities
Figure 3 shows the theoretical buckling curves of woven
fabrics for different values of M a but at a constant value of Figure 4 shows the theoretical buckling curves of woven
λ2. To reconfirm the trend observed in the previous para fabrics for different values of B* at constant values of M a
Nonlinear Buckling of Woven Fabrics. Part I: Elastic and Nonelastic Cases R. D. Anandjiwala et al. 165 TRJ
Figure 3 Effect of M a on fabric
buckling for (a) λ2 = 0.5, (b) λ2 =
0.6, (c) λ2 = 0.7 and (d) λ2 = 0.8.
Figure 4 Effect of the initial bend
ing rigidity, B * at a constant value
of the final bending rigidity, B, for
(a) M a = 0.5, (b) M a = 0.75, (c)
M a = 1.0 and (d) M a = 1.25.
and final bending rigidity, B. The values of M a are also Pl 2
The nondimensional load,  , at constant values of per
changed systematically as shown in Figure 4a to d. For B
each value of M a and B, the values of B* are systematically centage compression, M a and B, increases with an increase
varied from 5 to 15 in steps of 5, the Grosberg’s and the in initial bending rigidity as shown in Figure 4a. The
elastic buckling graphs also being shown for comparison. increase in initial bending rigidity, B*, implies that the ini
TRJ 166 Textile Research Journal 76(2)
Pl 2 Ma l
Table 2 Calculated values of the nondimensionless force,  , at various values of percentage compression, M a = 

B B
and B * , B = 3 = constant.
M a = 0.5 M a = 0.75 M a = 1.0 M a = 1.25
% compression 10 30 50 10 30 50 10 30 50 10 30 50
Elastica 10.39 11.65 13.32 10.39 11.65 13.32 10.39 11.65 13.32 10.39 11.65 13.32
B* = 5 11.69 12.46 14.00 12.32 12.86 14.34 12.94 13.26 14.67 13.53 13.65 15.00
B* = 10 12.67 13.07 14.51 13.79 13.33 15.09 14.89 14.46 15.68 15.97 15.14 16.25
B* = 15 13.00 13.27 14.68 14.28 14.07 15.36 15.54 14.86 16.01 16.79 15.64 16.67
Grosberg 13.66 13.67 15.01 15.27 14.67 15.85 16.85 15.66 16.68 18.41 16.65 17.51
tial resistance to buckling increases. In general, the lowest the final bending rigidity, B, but with different values for
buckling load is required for elastic buckling and the high percentage compression, M a , and initial bending rigidity,
est for Grosberg’s model where the value of B* tends to B*. For M a = 0.5 and 30% compression, the values of the
infinity, while all bilinear cases occupy intermediate posi nondimensional force increases from 11.65 for elastic
tions between these two extreme cases as shown in Figure
buckling to 12.46, 13.07 and 13.27 for B* values of 5, 10 and
4a to d. The increase in initial bending rigidity, B*, at con 15, respectively, with the highest value of 13.67 for Gros
stant M a and final bending rigidity, B; implies that the fab berg’s model where B* tends to infinity. As observed in the
ric will require a higher load for the onset of buckling. This previous section, the calculated values of the nondimen
resistance results from the frictional forces restricting the sional buckling load required to produce the same percentage
movement of the yarns and fibers. This frictional force is compression increases with an increase in M a . For exam
produced by a pressure which arises from interyarn forces
ple, as shown in Table 2, at B* = 10, and percentage com
at intersections due to yarn interlacings in the woven fab
pression = 30, the corresponding nondimensional loads
ric. The real effect of this frictional force is to produce the
coercive couple which has to be overcome before any are 13.07, 13.33, 14.46 and 15.14 for M a values of 0.5, 0.75,
bending takes place [6]. Table 2 shows the calculated values 1.0 and 1.25, respectively.
Figure 5 shows the theoretical buckling curves of woven
Pl 2
of the nondimensional force,  , for a constant value of fabrics for different values of B and at constant values of
B
Figure 5 Effect of the final bending
rigidity, B at a constant value of the
initial bending rigidity, B * , for (a)
M a = 0.5, (b) M a = 0.75, (c)
M a = 1.0 and (d) M a = 1.25.
Nonlinear Buckling of Woven Fabrics. Part I: Elastic and Nonelastic Cases R. D. Anandjiwala et al. 167 TRJ
Pl 2 Ma l
Table 3 Calculated values of the nondimensionless force,  , at various values of percentage compression, M a = 

B B
and B, B * = 12 = constant.
M a = 0.5 M a = 0.75 M a = 1.0 M a = 1.25
% compression 10 30 50 10 30 50 10 30 50 10 30 50
Grosberg 13.66 13.67 15.01 15.27 14.67 15.85 16.85 15.66 16.68 18.41 16.65 17.51
B=5 12.29 12.83 14.31 13.22 13.41 14.80 14.13 13.99 15.29 15.02 14.56 15.77
B = 7.5 11.61 12.41 13.96 12.20 12.79 14.27 12.78 13.16 14.59 13.33 13.52 14.90
B = 10 10.93 11.99 13.60 11.19 12.16 13.74 11.44 12.32 13.88 11.68 12.48 14.02
Elastica 10.39 11.65 13.32 10.39 11.65 13.32 10.39 11.65 13.32 10.39 11.65 13.32
M a and initial bending rigidity, B*. The values of M a are behavior. It is felt that these nomograms and tables will be
also varied systematically as shown in Figure 5a to d. For very useful information for estimating the buckling behav
ior of a fabric without having to go through the computa
each value of M a and B*, the values of B are systematically
tional exercise that was done in this work. All relevant
varied from 5, to 10 in steps of 2.5, together with the Gros
nomograms and corresponding tables have been stored in
berg and elastic buckling cases calculated for comparison
the electronic format and can be made available to inter
Pl 2 ested readers upon request to authors.
purposes. The nondimensional load,  , at constant val
B
ues of percentage compression, M a and B*, decreases with
an increase in final bending rigidity as shown in Figure 5a.
The increase in final bending rigidity, B, at a constant value Conclusions
of initial bending rigidity, B*, implies that the buckling of
The theoretical buckling model of fabric presented here,
the fabric becomes relatively easy since the initial resist
which is based on the bilinear bending rule, modifies Gros
ance arising from frictional restraint mechanism is already
berg and Swani’s buckling model. The proposed model also
overcome. Moreover, λ2 is the ratio of B to B*, which tends includes, as subsets, other models, such as that of Grosberg
to unity signifying that the buckling of the fabric becomes and Swani and the elastic buckling models. The proposed
close to elastic buckling. The reduction in the values of the model behaves well numerically and its solution can be eas
final bending rigidity at a constant value of B* implies that ily obtained by utilizing established and commercially avail
the ratio λ2 tends to zero which signifies that the fabric able numerical analyses programs. The numerical results
resists buckling, similar to Grosberg’s model. Table 3 shows appear realistic and are consistent with theoretical assump
Pl 2 tions. The second part of this paper will deal with the recov
the calculated values of the nondimensional force,  , for ery behavior of the fabric buckled to a finite deformation,
B
a constant value of the final bending rigidity, B*, but with the effect of bending hysteresis, and experimental valida
tion of the theory.
different values of percentage compression, Ma , and initial
bending rigidity, B. The calculated values of the non
dimensional buckling load required to produce the same Acknowledgement
percentage compression increases with an increase in M a .
Dr John Gonsalves acknowledges the Nelson Mandela Met
For example, as shown in Table 2, at B = 7.5, and percent
ropolitan University for granting him sabbatical research
age compression = 30, the corresponding nondimensional
leave to take part in this ongoing research at the National
loads are 12.41, 12.79, 13.16 and 13.52 for M a values of 0.5, Fibre, Textile & Clothing Centre, Manufacturing and Mate
0.75, 1.0 and 1.25, respectively. rials Technology, CSIR, South Africa.
The foregoing discussions based on numerical results
indicate that the buckling behavior of a fabric based on
bilinear bending rule can be calculated from experimen
tally measurable bending parameters, such as the frictional
Appendix
couple, and the initial and final bending rigidities. An
Nomenclature
extensive numerical analysis has been undertaken to verify
the theoretical behavior of the proposed model within a l length of fabric
realistic range of input parameters. Based on the numeri P vertical point force
cal work, graphical nomograms and corresponding tables Y compressed height of the fabric
have been prepared which can help to know the buckling yA Ycoordinate of point A
TRJ 168 Textile Research Journal 76(2)
xA Xcoordinate of point A Ma l
Ma nondimensional transitional couple =  
s length of fabric measured from the origin O to B
any point P (x, y) λ2 ratio of final bending rigidity, B to initial bend
l1 length of fabric from origin O to point A ing rigidity, B*
(xA, yA)
l2/2 length of fabric from point A to the half length
of the fabric at point Z Literature Cited
y2/2 compressed height of the fabric from point A
to the half length of the fabric at point Z 1. Amirbayat, J., and Hearle, J. W. S., The Anatomy of Buckling
D deflection of the fabric at point Z along the X of Textile Fabrics: Drape and Conformability, J. Text. Inst., 80,
axis 51–68 (1989).
K curvature of the fabric 2. Clap, T. G. and Peng, H., Buckling of Woven Fabrics, Part I:
M moment at any point P (x, y) Effect of Fabric Weight, Textile Res. J., 60, 228–234 (1990).
Ma transition couple 3. Clap, T. G. and Peng, H., Buckling of Woven Fabrics, Part II:
Effect of Weight and Frictional Couple, Textile Res. J., 60, 285–
B* initial bending rigidity of the fabric
292 (1990).
B final bending rigidity of the fabric
4. Konopasek, M., Afterword, Theoretical Foundations of Tex
Mo frictional couple tile Science: A Life in and out of Engineering Textiles, J. Text.
ψ inclination of tangent to any point P (x, y) with Inst., 88, 122–129 (1997).
respect to Yaxis 5. Grosberg, P. and Swani, N. M., The Mechanical Properties of
θ ψ at origin O where s = 0 Woven Fabrics, Part III: The Buckling of Woven Fabrics, Tex
ψA inclination of tangent to point A (xA, yA) with tile Res. J., 36, 332–338 (1966).
respect to Yaxis 6. Grosberg, P., The Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabrics,
Part II: The Bending of Woven Fabrics, Textile Res. J., 36, 205–
π
F k *,  complete elliptical integral of the first kind 211 (1966).
2
7. Southwell, R. V., “An Introduction to the Theory of Elasticity
with modulus k*
for Engineers and Physicists,” Clarendon Press, Oxford, 1936.
π
E k *,  complete elliptical integral of the second kind 8. Timoshenko, S., Strength of Materials, Part I, Van Nostrand
2
with modulus k * Reinhold Co., 1955.
9. Kang, T. J., Joo, K. H., and Lee, K. W., Analyzing Fabric Buck
F k *, φ*A incomplete elliptical integral of the first kind
ling Based on Nonlinear Bending Properties, Textile Res. J., 74,
with modulus k* and amplitude φ*A 172–177 (2004).
10. Abbott, G. M., Grosberg, P., and Leaf, G. A. V., The Mechan
E k *, φ*A incomplete elliptical integral of the second ical Properties of Woven Fabrics, Part VII: The Hysteresis
During Bending of Woven Fabrics, Textile Res. J., 41, 345–358
kind with modulus k* and amplitude, φ*A (1971).
F ( k, φ A ) incomplete elliptical integral of the first kind 11. Livesey, R. G., and Owen, J., Cloth Stiffness and Hysteresis in
with modulus k and amplitude φA Bending, J. Textile Inst., 55, T516–T530 (1964).
12. Huang, N. C., Finite Biaxial Extension of Completely Set
E ( k, φ A ) incomplete elliptical integral of the second
Plain Woven Fabrics, J. Appl. Mech., 46, 651–655 (1979).
kind with modulus k and amplitude φA 13. Leaf, G. A. V. and Anandjiwala, R. D., A Generalized Model
δ fractional compression of the fabric of Plain Woven Fabric, Textile Res. J., 55, 92–99 (1985).
ψZ ψ at point Z 14. Anandjiwala, R. D. and Leaf, G. A. V., LargeScale Extension
and Recovery of Plain Woven Fabrics, Part I: Theoretical, Tex
Pl 2
P nondimensional force =  tile Res. J., 61, 619–634 (1991).
B