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True to our principles Versatile machines

for lasting success
Compact yarn in weaving
Good training pays off
Denim – the stuff dreams
are made of Business at ITMA ASIA and
OTEMAS better than expected
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001


2 Publisher’s Imprint

“Weaver’s Digest” is a journal for customers
of Sulzer Textil. It is published quarterly in
German, English, French, Italian, Spanish,
Chinese and Japanese with a total print run 3 Editorial
of 41,000 copies True to our principles
Subscription enquiries should be addressed 4 Compact yarn in weaving –
to Sulzer Textil:
Fax +41 (0)55 250 21 71 a new fashion or a must for
E-mail high-quality fabrics?
7 Denim – the stuff dreams
Publisher and Copyright
Sulzer Textil Limited
are made of
Head Office
CH-8630 Ruti ZH (Switzerland)
8 Versatile machines for lasting success
Phone +41 (0)55 250 21 21
Fax +41 (0)55 250 21 01 10 Good training pays off
E-mail 11 Business at ITMA ASIA
and OTEMAS better than expected
René König

Horst Mall

Trudy Hermann, CH-8630 Ruti ZH
Fax +41 (0)55 250 21 71

AG für Kommunikation
Werbeagentur ASW
CH-8500 Frauenfeld

Printed by

Uniware AG, CH-8952 Schlieren-Zurich

This issue published Title photo
December 2001 The versatility of Sulzer Textil weaving
machines is always in evidence.
Reproduction They can be used to produce a complete
in whole or in part is permitted only with an range of clothing textiles, including
explicit annotation worded “From Weaver’s Digest, luxury silk and finest worsteds
published by Sulzer Textil”. for special occasions.
Courtesy copy is requested.

Printed in Switzerland
ISSN No. 1424-5728
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001
 True to our principles

Dear Customers and Friends
of Sulzer Textil, 3

The ITMA ASIA in Singapore and the OTEMAS in
Osaka (Japan) were resounding successes for Sulzer
Textil – successes to be proud of. Not only did we

sell a large number of machines, we also lined up
several new projects and talked with many leading
representatives of the textile industry. Numerous
existing and prospective customers profited from
the opportunity to view the new products and
developments exhibited at the Sulzer Textil booth.
These tradeshows were the first international
presentations following the announcement that
Sulzer Textil would continue to operate as an inde-
pendent company within the ITEMA Group (subject
to the approval of the cartel authorities). We were
glad that visitors and associate companies alike
accepted the new circumstances in a very positive
light – a fact that was confirmed not least by the

many sales and enquiries. We could feel the con-
fidence placed in us, in our new partner, as well as in
our strategy, our product range and our services.
This confidence gives us an obligation – to do
everything we can to remain or become a strong
and reliable partner for you. Because for us, it
remains true that "your success is our future".
In this spirit, we look forward to regular contacts
with you next year, and wish you every success in


Christopher Somm
Sales and Marketing Manager
Sulzer Textil
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001

Compact yarn in weaving –

The higher strength and greater elongation of the yarn
4 Operating principle have a positive impact on the running characteristics of
Ring Spinning Comforspin® the weaving machine.

ation results in a hitherto unequalled yarn structure.
The marginal fibres are no longer on the surface as
in conventional ring yarn, but are completely in-
tegrated in the fibre bundle. As a result, the hairiness
is reduced and the yarn strength is increased by up
to 20%.
The EliTe process uses a conventional drafting
system, complementing it with an additional add-
on unit whose effect is comparable with the process
described above. This equipment is usually used for
converting existing ring-spinning machines.
When rotor yarns made their debut in the 1970s, many
Spinners can exploit the advantages of compact
people thought the days of ring spinning were numbered.
spinning technology in a variety of ways:
Ring yarn was too expensive, too unproductive, more
difficult to process, and its positive characteristics were • improvement of yarn characteristics with the
same raw material
hard to exploit. Other processes with high productivity –
• higher spin-out limits and better utilization
and lower yarn quality – were investigated and some of of the raw material
them were marketed. Then the unexpected happened: • greater customer benefit.
Ring yarn staged a comeback, not only as a result of
What are the advantages for weaving mills?
automation and higher speeds, but also because of the It has already been pointed out that the compaction
characteristics of the end product. process improves the yarn structure. This better
yarn structure makes the yarn more resistant to
abrasion; thus facilitating further processing.
The increased yarn strength and reduction in the
At the latest since the ITMA 1999, this development number of weak points makes higher yarn strain
Andreas Hellwig has even been taken a stage further: compact possible in subsequent processing, e.g. spooling,
spinning has been introduced. What does the term weaving and finishing, which continues up to the
"compact spinning" involve, what advantages does final product.
it really offer, where is it currently used, and what
will the future bring?

What is compact yarn?
Compact yarn, also known under the brand names
or "EliTe", is a compacted ring yarn with low
hairiness. In the Rieter system, the delivery cylinder
on the ring-spinning machine is fitted with a per-
forated drum, complete with a suction insert and
air guide element which, in combination with parti-
al vacuum, bundle or compact the fibres after draft-
ing. This ensures on the one hand that the spinning
triangle is minimized, and on the other that the
marginal fibres are incorporated. This simple oper-
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001
a new fashion
or a must for high-quality fabrics?
The higher strength and greater elongation of the yarn
Comparison of weak points have a positive impact on the running characteristics 5
100% cotton combed; tex 9,8 (Ne 60) αe 3,56 of the weaving machine.

Highest strength [N]

One weaver, for instance, stated that he increased
efficiency from 94% to 98% and increased the
speed from 650 to 850 rpm, while at the same time
Ring yarn
reducing the cleaning interval by a factor of five.
That will certainly not always be possible, but it
illustrates the inherent potential of compact yarn.

What advantages do the fabrics have?
Elongation [%] Apart from the spinning method employed and the
weave, the final look of the fabric depends on the
raw material quality and the finish. Articles made
In addition, the simultaneous minimization of of compact yarns always have a glossier, more
hairiness reduces hooking together of the warp brilliant appearance than comparable ring yarn
ends and improves package unwinding behaviour. products.
When warping, it has to be kept in mind that due to Compact yarn has no influence on thorough
the lack of hairiness the yarn tends to curl. However, dyeing capability – this also applies to packages – or
this can be compensated for by precise adjustment on dye consumption. However, the dyeing often
of yarn tension. appears more homogenous because the appearance
Sizing is also recommended for compact yarn but of the fabric is not impaired by irregular hairiness.
the amount of size applied can be reduced. It has This is also a special advantage with regard to
been found possible to reduce the degree of sizing printing. Precise contours and substantially higher
and thus the quantity of size required in common print penetration quality enhance both value and
fabric constructions by up to 50% without the value retention.
number of broken ends exceeding that when using The positive yarn characteristics mentioned above
conventional ring yarn. The level of reduction are retained in the fabric. Because of this the
depends on the style, the fibre raw material, the finishing process can also be adapted. Probably,
process control etc. In practice, approx. 30% is process steps such as singeing or mercerising will
normal. Also, it should not be forgotten that the be first in line here. However, non-iron finishing can
waste water load is thus also reduced. This also be reconsidered. Up to now, the immense loss
undoubtedly benefits the environment and will of strength associated with this type of finishing
bring cost advantages in the long term. has restricted its application. Here also, the increased
The advantages of compact yarn are especially strength of compact yarn fabrics allows sub-
evident on the weaving machine. Efficiency in stantially more room for manoeuvre.
particular is positively influenced. Higher and more
uniform strength, combined with greatly reduced
hairiness, improve running characteristics. However,
the frequently asked question "what is the per-
centage increase in efficiency?" cannot be answered
Info direct globally. The fabric construction, the yarn previously
Andreas Hellwig
Maschinenfabrik Rieter AG
used, the weaving machine and the weft insertion
8406 Winterthur system are all influencing factors. It has proved
Phone +41 (0)52 208 7080 possible to increase efficiencies that were previously
Fax +41 (0)52 208 7680
around 80–90% to over 90%. In one case an efficiency of over 96% was achieved, with equal or
higher speed. Investigations carried out jointly by
Georg Ensslin
Phone +41 (0)55 250 29 05
Rieter and Sulzer Textil support these figures.
Fax +41 (0)55 250 21 36
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001

The reduction in the amount
6 Better efficiency despite lower amount of size of size with a simultaneous
improvement in efficiency
are economic benefits.
Stops/105 picks Sizing degree


75% The use of yarns coarser than 19.7 tex (Ne 30) for
50% fabrics is now also being investigated, usually
25% because of finishes which impair the strength of
the styles or the desire for less hairiness.
Warp and weft So far, almost all industrially produced compact
yarns have been made of cotton. However, the
* technology is being continuously further developed
and refined, and in trials practically all types of fibre
Ring yarn * Could not be
are used.
αe 3,56 αe 3,56 αe 3,23 processed

Cooperation between Rieter
For which styles is compact yarn and Sulzer Textil
the obvious choice? Ever since the start of development Rieter sought
Initially, compact yarn technology at Rieter was cooperation with Sulzer Textil engineers. Through
developed only for finer cotton yarns from 19.7 tex talks the weavers’ needs were identified and
(Ne 30) on. These are the yarn counts which gain questions which arose were tackled jointly. The
most from the increase in strength and the discussions were not limited to a single weaving
reduction in hairiness. technology; they covered Sulzer Textil’s entire range
As these two parameters have a positive impact of weaving systems, including the M8300. As a
on processability and serviceability, compact yarns consequence, Sulzer Textil can probably now be
were used first for shirtings, blousings, and regarded as the weaving machine manufacturer
comparable styles. European users now regard them with the most experience in compact yarns.
as the standard. Meanwhile, however, less fashion- Aside from wide-ranging trials with rapier,
oriented and industrial styles are also being woven projectile and air-jet machines, trials with the
from compact yarns. M8300 merit particular mention. It was shown
Another important fact is that with compact that compact yarns can also be used to good effect
yarns it is possible to weave new styles that pre- with this machine. In many cases the improvements
viously could not be produced. Most fabric devel- in running characteristics more than make up for
opers do not simply replace existing styles with the higher price of the compact yarns.
compact yarn, because it is somewhat "thinner" The cooperation between Sulzer Textil and Rieter
and sometimes makes the fabric look threadbare. is a good illustration of the fact that cooperation
Instead, they exploit the advantages of the yarn in between specialists for different process stages can
new, adapted, and in some cases more economical benefit all concerned, and in particular their
constructions that offer potentially higher earnings. customers. TX 76

is a registered trademark of
Rieter AG, of Winterthur, Switzerland
Ring yarn
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001
Denim –
the stuff dreams are made of
More than one in two
denim products in the world 7
originates on a Sulzer Textil
weaving machine.

Success in Turkey
However, fashion is not the only yardstick. Clothes
also owe their wearers something – comfort and
freedom of movement. This is why stretch fabrics
are meanwhile so popular. While the first fabrics
were only elastic in the warp, demand is increasing
for bi-elastic fabrics, which are even more com-
fortable. Sulzer Textil occupies a leading position in

this high-quality segment of the market – a fact
confirmed by a recent sales success in Turkey. Three
leading Turkish textile manufacturers have ordered
Without denim, modern-day fashions would be in- 214 projectile weaving machines. The machines will
be used to produce high-quality, heavy, and to some
conceivable. The variety increases every season and the
extent bi-elastic denim fabrics.
market is growing constantly. This fabric is a temptation to
experiment. Every style is represented – whether pert and Leading denim weavers rely on Sulzer Textil
With these investments they are upgrading their
audacious, sporty, romantic or elegant.
machine inventories, which include a total of more
than 900 Sulzer Textil weaving machines. The
No wonder denim garments are favourites with Turkish textile industry is one of the world’s largest
Fritz Huber both younger and older generations. More than denim manufacturers. For the export market, it
half of all the denim produced in the world is wov- produces mainly heavy, high-quality fabrics.
en on Sulzer Textil projectile weaving   The machines ordered weave denim
machines. Now a major order from in two panels, with working widths of
Turkey has given our company addi- Projectile weaving 360 or 390 cm. The advantages of
tional impetus. machines – two-panel weaving are exploited to
To remain successful on the denim top producers the full: low power consumption and
market, weavers must be able to adapt reduced wear due to low machine
of denim
quickly to new trends. A precondition speed, very little weft waste – a
for this is a flexible, versatile machine consequence of system design – plus
inventory. Sulzer Textil projectile weaving machines high efficiency and top fabric quality due to limited
meet these requirements in an ideal way. In our yarn loading. In addition, they are equipped with a
industry we are clearly among the world leaders, in tappet motion and a weft mixer for weft insertion
particular with regard to projectile weaving from two packages. A uniform fabric surface is thus
machines, where more than one in every two denim guaranteed. TX 77
products in the world is manufactured on our
systems. They weave denim for fashion shirts and
blouses, jackets, coats, waistcoats and skirts, as well
as, of course, for jeans – in all qualities, from light to
classic heavy denim. The weight classes of the
fabrics cover an equally wide range, from just a few
ounces per square yard to 15+ denim, a heavy,
difficult-to-weave fabric.
Info direct
Georg Ensslin
Phone +41 (0)55 250 29 05
Fax +41 (0)55 250 21 36
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001

Versatile machines for lasting success

Responding quickly and in an innovative way to new market wishes can change very quickly, and a fabric with a
8 complex construction may be required quite
requirements is becoming increasingly important as a suddenly. While it was possible to weave the old
precondition for lasting success. Thanks to their modular style on a machine with a tappet motion, the new
design, Sulzer Textil weaving machines can be adapted one can only be produced with a controlled dobby.
Or, taking the example of an agro-textile: at first, a
quickly and economically to meet new needs.

single-weft machine was adequate for production
of the plain fabric; but the customer may suddenly
Textile mills producing fashion fabrics have to live require markings in warp and weft direction. But
Peter Mathieu with short product lifetimes and therefore have that can only be accomplished with different-
flexible machine inventories. But what happens coloured tapes, and requires a weft controller for at
when they are forced into a different segment of least two colours. Or new market segments, e.g.
the market and their installed machinery no longer hail-protection fabrics, may call for a leno fabric
fulfils requirements? construction. These are just a few examples, to
Mills specializing in industrial fabrics have to illustrate how quickly a new market opportunity
cope with even more adverse conditions. Customers’ can arise, but also how fast it can disappear unless
it is taken up without delay.

The electronically
controlled warp let-off
is easy to add on to the
existing mechanical
warp let-off.

With its broader clamping
area, the D12 projectile
also grips special yarns securely.


The floating take-up
roller with pressing device
ensures slip-free cloth

take-up at high warp
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001

Fast, economical alternatives Improvement of fabric quality
How is it possible to keep up with such a rapid pace The following conversion alternatives are important 9
of development? One simple solution would be to to fulfil this requirement in particular:
install fully equipped machines from the beginning. • Floating take-up roller
In that case, however, you might have to bear In fabrics with high warp tension it stabilizes and
unnecessary investment costs for years – almost ensures trouble-free cloth take-up. It prevents

impossible, given today’s cut-throat competition. the fabric from slipping back and thus protects
Another alternative would be to buy new machines: the surface of the fabric from damage.
certainly the best solution for the machine • Electronically controlled warp let-off
manufacturer. However, by the time the machines for absolutely constant warp tension from the
are installed in your mill the boom may be over. For full to the empty warp beam. A contactless sensor
such an eventuality, Sulzer Textil has the ideal measures the warp tension and regulates a
solution, economical compared with the other al- frequency-controlled motor with an electro-
ternatives: modernization or conversion. What magnetic brake.
problems can be solved in this way? Sulzer Textil’s • Reed inclination by 4°
"Customer Service Engineering & Upgrading" In the production of heavy fabrics, inclination of
answers this question in detail in the following: the reed shortens the recoiling fell, resulting in
gentler beat-up and making higher pick density
Expanding the range of applications possible.
The following conversion possibilities exist for this
purpose: Modernization pays off
• Warp tensioner You can adapt to new market conditions even with
Ideal for fabrics with high weft density. low capital expenditure. With a modernized
High stability and close adherence to the set machine inventory you will be better placed to
warp tension are the distinctive features of this respond quickly to new requirements, to expand
low-mass tensioning and guide sys- your range of styles or to supply to
tem. new markets.
• Weft mixer Competitive   The additional benefits, such as
or control system for four weft yarns improved fabric quality and lower spa-
thanks to
or colours for styles requiring more re parts and maintenance costs, mean
than one weft yarn or weft colour.
modernization that you can optimize your operating
The weft mixer, or weft insertion costs. The economic efficiency of
from two or more yarn packages modernization is affected by wage
improves the appearance of the fabric. costs, quality criteria, and machine hours per year
• D12 projectile with large clamping area and style program. The bottom line is this: mod-
This makes significantly more versatile weft ernization of existing weaving machines, resulting
insertion possible without any loss of per- in higher flexibility and cost optimization is a factor
formance. The clamping surface area of the which should not be underestimated in securing a
projectile is substantially larger. company’s long-term survival.
• Conversions from tappet motions Ask our specialists how you can modernize your
to controlled rotary dobbies or Jacquard machines. machine inventory. The range of alternatives
available will surprise you. Please contact us via the
address given in Info direct. TX 78

Info direct
Heinz Klingele
Phone +41 (0)55 250 26 27
Fax +41 (0)55 250 21 03
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001

Good training pays off

Well-trained employees In principle, Sulzer Textil runs all of the courses
10 help increase operating described in the training program both at its training
profits. Sulzer Textil runs centres and on customers’ premises. On request,
basic and update training training courses specifically tailored to your
courses both at its training
requirements can also be provided.
centres and at customers’

Successful in practice
The Wovens Division of Amoco Fabrics GmbH in
Gronau (Germany) has been taking advantage of
in-house basic and update training since 1995. The
company has several hundred Sulzer Textil weaving

machines installed, producing carpet backings and
agro-textiles from PP tapes. Once or twice a year, a
Sulzer Textil instructor gives courses at Amoco
Thorough training of operating personnel is one of Fabrics. The content and scope of these courses
Peter Gisler the preconditions for trouble-free operation of a are defined in advance in consultation with the
weaving mill and high efficiency, both of which management. Inhibitions are reduced, acceptance
increase operating profits. Sulzer Textil instructors of the machines is increased and efficiency thus
help to ensure the success of training. The new maximized: the employees gain confidence. This
2002 Sulzer Textil Training Program is now available. results in shorter maintenance times and more
We attach great importance to the training of accurate machine settings, helping to ensure
operating and maintenance personnel, following trouble-free operation and high fabric quality. At
the philosophy that "when you’re familiar with a the same time, young talent is promoted. The fact
machine, you’ll enjoy operating it and you’ll operate that Amoco Fabrics has meanwhile also introduced
it correctly." Because however highly developed a in-house courses with Sulzer Textil instructors at its
technology is, it can only function if operated prop- subsidiaries documents the success of the training.
erly by a human being. And that is why we believe Not long ago, a two-week basic training course
in efficient and cost-effective training, to impart with 9 participants was held at Amoco. In the
skills and expertise for day-to-day operation, so concluding assessment they awarded the course
that you gain time and cut costs. the grade "good" to "very good", and made the
following statements:
In-house training
When new machines are installed, operators and • "If there are any questions you still don’t know
maintenance personnel are often trained at the the answers to after this course, it’s your own
manufacturer’s plant. This frequently involves long- fault."
distance travel and means that the employees are • "Competent instructor, good at passing on his
unavailable at their companies for between one knowledge."
and four weeks. This generates substantial costs. • "Very good instruction, as regards both theory
And basic and update training are also important and practical skills."
for existing installations: machines may be • "The instructor answers all our questions and
modernized, but valuable skills and expertise lost covers all topics."
due to retirement and personnel fluctuations. To
conserve and update that expertise we can offer A training opportunity for your company?
you an efficient and economical solution: basic and The 2002 Training Program describes the courses
update training in-house at your mill. planned at Sulzer Textil for 2002. Ask your re-
presentative for a copy. If you have further questions,
in particular concerning in-house courses, contact
our specialist (see Info direct). Don’t hesitate to
contact us, because every day you operate at low
Info direct
efficiency and with unsatisfactory fabric quality
Alois Schmucki
Phone +41 (0)55 250 23 60 costs you money. TX 79
Fax +41 (0)55 250 21 22
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001
Business at ITMA ASIA and
OTEMAS better than expected
At the ITMA ASIA, the new terry version of the
G6300 rapier weaving machine was one of 11
the main attractions. Visitors were particularly
interested in the terry technology, which allows
exclusive patterning.

In Asia alone there are more than 50,000 Sulzer

Textil weaving machines in operation, producing a
wide variety of fabrics for local and export markets.
One key factor in this success is certainly that we
are the only company in the world offering all
leading weaving systems – rapier, projectile, air-

jet and multi-phase weaving machines – from a
single source.

Promising start at ITMA ASIA
Even in its inaugural year, the ITMA ASIA in Singapore
was fully booked, attracting more than 800
exhibitors from 32 countries. Over five days, more
than 14,000 visitors came to the new, 60,000
square-metre trade fair centre. Due to the tense
political situation expectations were subdued, and
for this reason exhibitors were all the more pleased
that there were so many visitors. Organizers,

exhibitors and visitors alike were more than satisfied
with the tradeshow, acclaiming this largest inter-
Trade visitors to the OTEMAS were impressed by the
national textile machinery fair so far in Singapore
technical features of the new P7300 projectile weaving
machine. as an outstanding success. This successful beginning
and the increasing importance of the Asian textile
industry are likely to secure a permanent place for
Success all the way the ITMA ASIA among the industry’s leading trade-
At the first ITMA ASIA in Singapore and the seventh shows. TX 80
OTEMAS in Osaka (Japan), we established con-
nections beyond the circle of our regular customers
and consolidated existing contacts. And the results
were better than expected. Deals were set up and
purchase contracts concluded for a substantial
number of machines of various types. Interest
focused on our new and further developed products
(cf. Weaver’s Digest 3/01) – the future-oriented
P7300 projectile and the G6300 F terry weaving
machines. Both of these innovations drew an
extremely positive response, confirming our tech-
nological leadership.
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001

Outstanding quality –
a result of in-depth process expertise


In its clean, well-lit weaving Wuxi Qingfeng Co. Ltd., one of China’s leading tex- Besides cotton, blends are also used, e.g. cotton/
room, Wuxi Qingfeng tile manufacturers, produces 120 million linear polyester, natural fibres such as ramie and linen,
produces mainly broad, metres of fabric a year, processing some 13,000 tons and rayon and Tencel. New additions to the range
high-quality fabrics for of cotton. The company was certified to ISO 9002 in include stretch fabrics made of elastic yarns.
export – on Sulzer Textil
1999, thus making clear that it is committed to One in four of the machines in the weaving room
weaving machines.
excellent quality at every stage of production. As far is an efficient Sulzer Textil weaving machine with a
as weaving machines are concerned Qingfeng relies working width of 280 or 330 cm. For plainer fabrics
on Sulzer Textil expertise and quality: a total of these machines are equipped with dobbies, and for
175 modern projectile weaving machines ensure intricately patterned fabrics with jacquard mach-
high fabric quality and extremely cost-efficient ines. In light of the good results obtained, other
production: the company exports the end-products companies in the Wuxi Qingfeng Group have
primarily to Europe, the USA, Canada, Brazil, Japan, meanwhile begun using Sulzer Textil projectile
Korea, and other south-east Asian countries. weaving machines. TX 81
The production line comprises spinning and weav-
ing rooms and a finishing department with bleach-
ing, dyeing and printing facilities. The fabrics pro-
cessed are mainly cotton, for bedlinen, tickings,
home textiles, shirts, blouses and suits.

Printed in Switzerland e/32.30.09 Doa

Sulzer Textil Limited Phone +41 (0)55 250 21 21
Head Office Fax +41 (0)55 250 21 01
CH-8630 Ruti ZH E-mail