OC T OB E R 2 0 1 2 YE A R 6 , I S S U E 1

I N S I D E T H I S
I S S U E
Wel comi ng Yol i !
2
Col eman s Caf
3
Cal endar of event s
4
The Farm Inn
5
PG Town map
6
Sout hern Voi ces:
Wi l Mahei a
7
Warasa Drum School
and Bat t l e of t he
Drums
9
Transport at i on
schedul es, i ncl udi ng
new vi l l age bus
schedul e
10
Backyard bi rdi ng
wi t h H. Lee Jones
12
What s cooki ng:
l i onf i sh cevi che
13
Li vi ng Maya
Experi ence
14
Bi g Fal l s Ext reme
Advent ures
15
BTIA member
di rect ory
16
Port Honduras
Mari ne Reserve
17
Arzu on medi ci nal
pl ant s: pi ss-a-bed
18
Tol edo Di st ri ct map
20
Newspaper of the Toledo Chapter of the Belize Tourism Industry Association
Boost to Cultural Tourism
TheintentionbehindBelizesSus
tainableTourismProgramisto
strengthenthetourismsector'scon
tributiontothenationaleconomy
whiletryingtoensurethatthe
growthissustainableinthatiten
hancesconservationofnaturalre
sourcesandofcultures.Thereare
fourinfrastructureprojectsinSan
Ignacio,Placencia,BelizeCityand
AmbergrisCayeaimedatenhancing
thetouristsexperiencebyimproving
theFortGeorgeareaaroundthe
tourismvillageinBelizeCity,building
apierinPlacencia,alongboardwalk
onthelagoonsideinAmbergrisand
pavingandimprovingthecentreof
SanIgnacio.
Anotherstrandintheprogramisto
diversifyculturaltourismproductsin
emergingdestinations.TheSTPalso
hasresourcesforthedevelopmentof
culturaltourismbusinessesthatshow
casetheCreole,GarifunaandMayan
cultures.Aftertrainingworkshopsfacili
tatedbyCanadianconsultantswithex
perienceindevelopingculturaltourism
amongthefirstnationpeoplesofCan
adaapplicationsfordevelopment
grantswereinvited.
SuccessfulapplicationsfromToledoin
cludestwodrummers:RayMcDonalds
WarasaGarifunaDrumSchool(seethe
articleonpage9)andEmmethYoung,
aCreoledrummerwithabusinesson
FrontStreet.TheWEartgalleryin
PuntaGordarunbyDrLudwigPalacio
andsituatedneartheairstripwasan
othersuccessfulapplicantforadevel
opmentgrant.
Outsidetown,grantswereawardedto
theMayanHomeStayPrograminAgua
catevillage,theToledoEcotourismAs
sociationguesthouseinSanMigueland
CyrilaschocolateinSanFelipe.Thelast
awardwenttotheLivingMayaExperi
enceinBigFalls,agroupofthreefami
liesofferingdistinctiveculturalhome
visitsbutmarketingthemselvesjointly.
DancersinPuntaGordascarnivalparadecelebratingBelizesindependence
Toledo wins Whitley Award again!
LastyearwewereproudtofeatureRa
chelGrahamsWhitleyawardandthis
yearweareequallypleasedtotell
Howlerreadersaboutthesameaward
wonthisyearbytheHon.LiselAlamilla,
theMinisterofForestry,Fisheriesand
SustainableDevelopmentforherwork
toprotecttheMayaGoldenLandscape
inherpreviouspositionasExecutiveDi
rectoroftheYaaxchConservation
Trust.
ForBelizetowinoncewasacreditto
thecountry,towintwicewasquitere
markableandforbothawardsto
comeforworkdoneinToledo,
inlandandoffshore,isamarkof
thequalityofscientificresearch
andconservationeffortsinBe
lizessouthernmostdistrict.
ThehonourrecognizestheMinis
tersworktouniteandequipthe
peoplewholiveintheGolden
StreamCorridorPreserveto
matchdevelopmentpressures,
includingpopulationgrowth,agricultural
changeandincreaseddemandfornatu
ralresources,withprotectionforthe
areasworldclassscenery,wildlifeand
traditions.
WhitleyAwardCeremony
2

Colemans Caf in Big Falls
Theysayofrestaurantsthatitisalwaysa
goodsignwhentheyarepopularwiththe
locals,andColemansisbothpopularwith
localsandvisitorsfromoverseas.Itisafavour
itestopforBelizeancommercialtravellerswho
makeregulartripstosupplythesouthwithmeat,
dairyproductsandgroceriesandmuchelsebe
sides.AndmanyoftheseBelizeansmakeapoint
ofstoppingatColemans,seducedbythegener
ouslunchtimehotbuffetwitharangeoftheirspe
cialdishes.
PearleenandTomColemanstartedcookingwhen
anEnglishman,withacrewofworkerswhowere
buildingthebridgeovertheRioGrandeatBig
Falls,askedPearleentocookforthegangwhile
theywereinthevillage.Prettysoonarchaeologists
diggingatNimLiPunitandLubaantunaskedTom
andPearleentohelpthemout.Sothentheybe
gancookingforthemandtheirstudenthelpers
whowerealsointhevillageforafewmonths.
And,inthisway,oneofthebestlocalrestaurants
insouthernBelizewasbornin2001.
AtthattimeTomwasstillworkinginthedusty
environmentthatistheRiceMilljustahundred
yardsfurtherinfromthesouthernhighwayinBig
Fallsvillage.Hewelcomedtheopportunityto
makeacompleteswitchofcareers.Theywere
soonfoundbysometouroperatorsvisitingToledo
fromPlacencia.ThefirstwasBasilioMesofExotic
BelizeTours.Nowtouroperatorsarriveduringthe
seasonfromDangriga,HopkinsandPlacenciaon
theirwaytoBlueCreekcavefif
teenmilessouthorLubaantun
justsevenmileswestthroughthe
villagesofSilverCreekandSan
Miguel.
TherestaurantisrunbyTomand
Pearleen,TomJr.andhispartner
Adelitawhohasbeenlearningto
cookunderPearleenssupervi
sion.Atlunchtimeyoucanfind
riceandbeansorwhitericeand
stewedbeansalongwithbaked
chickenandstewedbeefand
pork.Pearleendoesnotneglect
thevegetablesandotherdishes
includecohunecabbageand
calalooandPearleenshome
madechutney.Whenavailable
youcanalsofindgamemeatsuch
asgibnutandvenisonandallthis
comesforjust$15includinga
juiceorsoftdrink.
Overtheyearstheyhaveadded
morecapacityandcannowseat
fiftyinanopenareasurrounded
bythegardenwhichisariotof
colourduringmuchoftheyear.
Theyalsodooutsidecateringfororganiza
tionssuchasNGOs,theRiceMillitself,andthe
localhospitaljustcallthemforaquotation!
Theiropeninghoursarefrom10amuntil4pmand
thenfrom69pm.Theywouldpreferreservations
fortheeveningsessionandcanbecontactedat
thenumbersbelow.
Theyrecognizetheircloseconnectiontothetour
ismindustryandhavecementedthatrelationship
bybecomingoneofBTIAsnewestmembersin
Toledo.AsPearleensays,Everyyearitseemsto
begettingbetterandbetter,withmorevisitors
arriving.

HowtofindColemans:
HeadnorthfromPGTownontheSouthernHigh
waytowardsthevillageofBigFalls.Crossthe
bridgeovertheRioGranderiver,andyoullsee
thesignforColemansCafonthelefthandside
ofthehighway.

Contact:
Tel:6304432or6304069
https://www.facebook.com/colemanscafe
Email:belizetom@aol.com
Familystylelunchbuffet
Tom&PearleenColeman
3

Date Event Venue/Time OtherInfo
1214Oct
TIDEFISHFESTIVAL,includingSeafoodGala,YouthCon
servationCompetition,andFishingcompetition
(Festivalheldannually,PanAmericanDayweekend)
TIDECompound,PGTown
www.facebook.com/tide.toledofor
fulldetails
13Oct MayaConcert CentralPark,PG,08:0012:00
2627Oct
SUSTAINABLEHARVESTINTERNATIONALORGANIC
FAIRincludingtourtoorganicfarminSanPedroColum
bia,andcookeryclassesatGomiersVegetarianRestau
rant
PuntaGordaTown,andSan
PedroColumbia
nana@sustainableharvest.org,or
call7222010formoredetails
10Nov MissYurumeinContest ParishHall,19:00
16Nov BattleoftheDrumsFoodandFete Tobeannounced
17Nov BattleoftheDrums2012 SportsComplex,19:30
17Nov TOLTEX,showcasingsustainabletourism CentralPark,PG,09:00 BTIAtoledo@btl.netfordetails
18Nov ParandaTop10 BeyaSuites14:00
19Nov Yurumein:ReenactmentCeremonyoftheGarifuna FishermansCoopWharf,06:30
15Dec RotaryClubraffledraw,withmusicandBBQ CentralPark,PG LisaAvila,info@beyasuites.com
1921Dec DeerDance CriqueJuteVillage Contributionsrequested
20Dec BTIADinner&ShowGala BringinginthenewBaktun
5Jan ChristmasBirdCount ToledoDistrict Seepage12formoredetails
29Mar
1Apr13
EASTERACTIVITIESthroughouttheDistrictmarkyourcalendarsnow,andcheckthenexteditionofTheHowlerfordetails!
2426May
TOLEDOSANNUALCACAOFEST,foracelebrationofcacao,cultureandtherichflavoursoftheToledoDistrict!Checkthenextedition
ofTheHowlerfordetails!
Oct2013 TIDEAnnualFishFestivalmarkyourcalendarsnow(PanAmericanDayholidayweekend)
Spreadthewordandpublicizeyourevent!EmaildetailstotheToledoHowlerTeamforinclusioninourcalendarofevents(BTIAtoledo@btl.net)
1Nov Drumming CentralPark19:0022:00
7Nov DrummingandvideoshowingthejourneyoftheGarinagu CentralPark19:0022:00
9Nov
Cookoutdisplay,hudutmakingCassavabaking,sahau
makingWanaraguaContest
CentralPark09:0014:00
Calendar of Events
C all 722-2531 for details or
email B T IA toledo@btl.net
4

Welcome to Bienvenido a... TOLEDO!
Allowmetointroducemyself!MynameisDilma
YolandaCano,butjustcallmeYoli.IamtheTour
ismMarketingOfficerfortheBTIAchapterin
Toledo.
AtfirstglanceyouwouldthinkrightawaythatI
amagringa.But,Iamjustawonderfulblendof
Mopan,Kekchi,YucatecandSpanish.Iam100%
BelizeanMestizo,100%bushy,andIlovevillage
life.Aftermanyyearsoflivinginacoupleofcit
ies,IpreferthecountryorthebushasweBeliz
eansliketocallit.
Igrewupwithawesomegrandparentswho
taughtmetorespectyourneighbourandmost
importantly,nature.Iamastrongadvocatefor
myfavouritetreesmangroves.ButwhenIdieI
wouldliketobeburiedundermymuchloved
ceibatree.
Ihavehadtheprivilegeofworkingwithmypar
entsinthetourismindustrysinceIwasnineyears
old.Ihaveseentheupanddownsofthisfragile
industry.Belizeisfortunatetohavemanyniches
inthetourismmarkettosell.Thereissomething
foreverybody,fromsun,sandandseadestina
tionstojungle,cultureandadventuresexperi
ences.And,youcanexperiencebothatthesame
time.Bottomline,Belizeisblessedinmanyways
butitwillonlylastaslongasallBelizeanswork
together(thatincludesyoutoo,Government),to
preservingwhatisours,keepingitclosetoour
heartsandfightingwithallourpassionandfury
tokeepitsafe.
Tourismisabeautifulindustrytoworkin.Itis
neverboringorpredictable.Expecttheunex
pected.DuringmystudyingTourismManage
ment,inAustria,IrealizedthatIwillneverinmy
wholelifefinishunderstandingorlearningallthat
thereistothetourismindustry.Everysingleday
yougohomewithonemoregrainofwisdomand
knowledge.
AndIamheretosharethatknowledgewithyou,
tohelpmakeyourvisittoToledoandunforgetta
bleexperience.PleasevisittheTourismInforma
tionCentreinPuntaGordaTown,ortelephoneor
emailmewithanyquestionsyouhaveabout
Toledo.
Toyoudeartraveler,Isaythankyouforvisiting
mybeautifulcountry.Mayyoutakehomemany
wonderfulmemoriesandspreadtheword.Toyou
mybelovedfellowBelizeans,itsapleasureto
continueworkingwithyouinthisbeautifulindus
try.
ToledoTourismInformationCentre
FrontStreet,PuntaGordaTown
MontoFri8amto4pm,Sat8amto11.30am
Tel:7222531
Email:BTIAtoledo@btl.net
Just call me Yoli
5

The Farm Inn, at San Antonio
IfyouhadinvestedinpropertybetweenSanAnto
nioandtheborderatJalactefiveyearsagopeople
mighthaveraisedaneyebrowattheideaofestab
lishingabusinessinsuchanoutofthewayremote
spot.Nowin2012asthepavingoftheroadbe
tweenBigFallsandJalacteproceedsapacethat
investmentmakesfarmoresenseandevenlooks
farsighted.
ThatiswhatKevinandReneeBrowndidwhen
theybeganthedevelopmentthatisnowTheFarm
InntwomileswestofSanAntonio.Drivingwestit
islocatedamileafterthewaterfallontheright
handside.
Onedayinthenottoodistantfuturetheroadwill
becomplete,anewsouthernborderwillbe
opened,andthentheFarmInnwillbethefirst
accommodationthatvisitorspassastheydrive
intoToledofromGuatemala.
TheFarmInnissituatedonfiftytwoacresofland
includingseverallimestonehillsandyearround
creeksthatmeanderacrossthelandoversmall
rockyfallsandprovideconstantbackgroundmusic
forguestsintheiraccommodation.
KevinandReneearekeentomaintaintheprop
ertyasahavenforallwildlifeandsoforeverytree
thathashadtobesacrificedforbuildingtheyhave
plantedatleasttenmore.TheInnisnowmanaged
byReneesbrotherinlawPieterSteunenbergwho
movedtoBelizefromSouthAfricaafewyearsago.
Thefarmitselfisaveryimportantpartofthebusi
nessandtheyhaveplantedcoffeetrees,pineap
ple,vanilla,teak,allspiceand,ofcourse,cacao.
Theyhavethreethousandcacaotrees,someof
whichhaveproducedtheirfirstcropthisyear.As
membersoftheToledoCacaoGrowersAssocia
tiontheircropwillfinallyendupinGreenand
BlacksMayaGoldorganicdarkchocolate.
Theyalsokeepguineahens,turkeys,chickensand
ducks,andchildrenstayingatthefarmcanhelp
collectingeggsinthemorn
ingandputtingthebirds
awayintheircoopsatnight.
Ofcourse,theylovethisand
formanyyoungvisitorsit
maybetheirfirsttimeso
closetoanimalsandnature.
TheFarmInnopenedthis
yearandalltheirguestac
commodationiscontained
withinasingletwostorey
housebuiltonasteepbank
overlookingthecreek.There
isamixofaccommodation
withallbutoneroomhaving
theirownensuitebath
roomfacilitiesandonebe
ingsetupforafamilyof
fourwithaqueenandtwobunks.Thereisacom
munalsittingareaontheupperfloorwithanout
sideverandaharealookingdowntothestream
andacrossintothetreetops.Thismakesitawon
derfulspotforalazybirdwatcherintheearly
morningandlateafternoonandevening.Thepre
sentcapacityisfourteenguestsbutanewfacility
withanadditionaltwoensuiteroomsisnearing
completion.
TheirSouthAfricanbackgroundhasledthemto
introduceAfricanstylecookingmethodsusing
largeironthreeleggedcookingpotstoproduce
deliciousstews.Thesearecookedforhoursover
anopenfire.TheyalsohaveanAfricanstyleopen
ovenforroastsandotherbaking.
Therestaurantisopentothepublicforbreakfast
andlunchfromWednesdaytoSunday.Theirmenu
forthesemealsextendsfromsimpleburgersand
friestoextendedbuffetswithavarietyofmeats,
withsaladsandothersidedishes.Andtheypride
themselvesontheirbakedgoodsincludingtheir
cheesecakethathasreceivedravereviewsfroma
guestclaimingsomeexpertiseineatingcheese
cakeifnotmakingit.
Theyarealsoabletohostweddingsandseminar
workshops.Likemostplacesitisaworkinpro
gress.TheHowlerwelcomesthisnewestaddition
toToledoaccommodation.

Contact:
Telephone7324781or6044918
info@thefarminnbelize.com
www.thefarminnbelize.com
TheFarmInnshomebuiltovenandfireplaceandironcookingpots
Bug corner - orchid bees
So,aswellasthewettestdistrict(readmost
lush)thebugquestionoftenoccurswhentalking
aboutToledo.Therealityisthatwedohavesome
mosquitoes(althoughfewerthansomeotherar
easinBelize),butalsoawholehostofweirdand
wonderfulcreatures.
Orchidbeesare,byandlarge,solitarybeeswhich
comeinarainbowrangeofcoloursandsizesand
inmanycasestheyarethesolepollinatorfor
variousorchids.Theytendnottocrosslarger
openareas,andfewspeciesoforchidbeeshave
survivedtheagriculturisationofthetropicsand
habitatloss.WearefortunateinToledothator
chidbeesappeartobesurviving,ifnotthriving
alocalannualcensusrevealshighernumbers
yearonyear,aswellasapreviouslyunidentified
species.
Themaleshavespeciallyadaptedpouchesin
theirhindlegsinwhichtheygatherandstorees
sentialoilsfromthevariousorchids(aswellas
someotherflowers),usingtheirbespokecologne
toattractfemales.
Vanilla(vanillaplanifolia)canoftenbefound
growingwildinToledo,andthebeautifulmetallic
greenEuglossaTridentata(picturedright)isthe
onlyknownnaturalpollinatorofthisorchid.
DontforgettocheckoutourarticleontheBelize
SpiceFarmandtheirvanillaproductioninthenext
editionofTheHowler.
6

Sketch map of PG Town
TOURISM INFORMATION
CENTRE
7

Southern Voices: Wil Maheia
WilMaheiaispureToledobornandraised
inForestHomeandPuntaGordaTown,and
leavingBelizeonlytocompletehisuniversity
educationintheUS.
Wilisthefounderandformerexecutivedirector
ofTIDE,ToledoslargestconservationNGO,and
wasinstrumentalinhavingthePortHondurasMa
rineReservedeclaredaprotectedarea.Wilnow
spearheadsthePeoplesNationalPartyofBelize,
andhostsapublicinterestprogrammeonPGTV
Newsnetwork.
FamilyhistoryinToledo?
ImToledobornandbred,andproudofit!Iwas
bornandraisedinForestHome,andthenmoved
toPG.Mymumwasbornhere,althoughmyfa
thersfamilywassplitbetweenDoubleHeadCab
bage,BelizeCity,andStGeorgesCaye.Youllfind
theMaheianameinBelizeCityandtheMullins
Riverarea,andyoullalsoseeaSpanishspelling,
Majea,insomeSpanishandGarifunafamilies.
Whatarethemostsignificantchangesyouhave
seeninToledoinyourlifetime?
Ithinkitwouldhavetobeimprovedinfrastruc
ture:electricity,watersupply,androadsand
transportation.Asachildweusedtotakeold
painttinsandstandinlinetofillthemupatthe
standpipe,andwedidnthaveelectricityinthe
village.EvenmovingtoPGthepowerusedtoget
shutoffat9pm,whenthegeneratorwasturned
off.ThebuildingoftheSouthernHighwaymadea
bigdifferenceand,alongwithmanyotherkids
fromForestHome,IworkedonJamesBusline
whichwasownedbymyUncleJamesJamesBus
lineisawholeotherstoryinitself!
Areyouoptimisticaboutthedevelopmentof
tourisminToledo?
Toledoisbeautiful,weresorichinsomanyways,
andwehavesuchalottooffervisitorsthatit
wouldbedifficulttoimaginetourismwouldnt
develop.But,weneedproperplanning,astrategic
plan,todeterminewhatcouldandshouldhappen,
andwhen.Weneedimprovedborderfacilities,
notnecessarily24/7,butcertainlyweneedto
makeiteasierforboatownerstovisitBelizefrom
Guatemala,streamliningtheentryprocessand
makingitaffordableforthem.Therearealotof
boatsintheRioDulce,andImprettysurethat
theypresentatourismopportunity,especiallyif
facilitiesatJoeTaylorCreekcouldbemadebigger.
WhatcouldGovernmentdotopromotetourism
toToledo?
Well,Toledosstillthoughtofasoneofthemore
difficultdestinationstoreach.Lowerairfares
wouldcertainlyhelp,buthelpingestablisharegu
larwatertaxibetweenPGandPlacenciaand
maybepointsinbetweenandevenextendingit
toBelizeCitycouldbeagreatwayforvisitorsto
travelsouth.
CostsinToledoarehighcomparedwiththerestof
thecountry,andhavecountrywideratesforfixed
pricegoodscouldgiveusamorelevelplaying
field.Whatsthepointofhaving,forexample,
fixedgaspricesifToledohastopayahigherfixed
pricethantherestofthecountry?
HowcanweimprovetourisminToledo?
Well,first,togetherisalwaysstronger,andwe
needtoworkasateamthepublicandprivate
sectors,thetourguides,accommodation,restau
rants,andallthegroupsthatmakeupthetourism
product.
Somemorecoordinationforbusroutescouldhelp
makeiteasierfortouriststovisitinlanddestina
tions,andIdliketoseepeoplebeingmorecrea
tive,andlookinglongerterm.Ourtripscanbeex
pensive,soweneedtooffermoreaffordableac
tivitiestoattracttourists,andtobeconstantly
thinkingaboutnewpossibilities.Itookatripupto
BoomCreekvillagere
cently,andkayakingon
theMoho(River)into
theAmadolagoonwas
fantastic.
Reeforrainforest?
Thatsanunfairques
tionhowcanIchoose
betweenthejungleand
alltheamazingwildlife,
andtheoffshorecayes.
Nameonecantmiss
placeoractivityin
Toledo
19
th
November!Ilove
thesoundofthe
drums,andgrowingup
Irememberhearing
drummingallover
town.Drumming
seemedtobedying
out,butBattleofthe
DrumsandWarasa,to
nameacouple,aredo
ingalottohelprenew
interest,withkids
learningtheskill.No
vember19
th
inPGis
veryspecial,andIlove
seeingpeoplecoming
togethertohavefun
andcelebratetheGari
funaculture.
Mostmemorableen
counterwithawild
animal?
HikingintheGoldenStreamCorridoritwasa
reallyhotdayandwestoppedforaquickrest.
Lookatthat,andIturnedroundtoseeajaguar
only50feetyonder.
Whatsyourfavouritetimeofyear?
Eastertimetheweatherisniceanddry,andits
thetimewhenBelizeanscometogethertocele
bratefriendsandfamily.(But,Ialsolovethethun
derstormsinToledo).Everymonthhassomething
goodtoofferus.
WhatsyourfavouriteBelizeandish?
Asachild,definitelyhicateeandwhiterice.Weall
knowhowscarcethehicateeisthesedays,soI
nowhavetosaycohunecabbage.Mymumwould
makecohunecabbageforusall,andshetaught
mywifehowtomakeit.
Redbeansorblack?
Blackbeans,cookedasriceandbeans.ButIdo
likewhitericeandstewbeansalso!
Anyfutureplansyoudliketosharewithus?
Imgoingtocontinuetolobbyforsustainablede
velopmentinToledo,includingtourism.Idalso
liketoseemoreagriculturalmicroenterprises
cacaoisareallygoodopportunityforToledo,
spices,andcoffeeanyonewhostastedToledo
coffeeknowsyoudontnecessarilyneedhighland
toproducegoodcoffee,justgoodprocessingand
roasting.

8

9

Warasa Drum School - paint, plywood, and vision!
Drummingisjustoneofthetangibleelementsof
theGarifunaculture,andWarasaDrumschoolis
aptlynamedwarasameaningourculturein
theGarifunalanguage.
WarasaDrumSchoolwasfoundedin2010by
RonaldRaymondMcDonald,andhiswife,
Ruth.RuthoriginallyhailsfromScotland,and
shereminiscesthatafewweeksafterthey
firstmetRaysharedhisdreamwithherof
openingaGarifunadrummingcentrenot
onlytoteachdrumming,butalsohowto
makedrums,andtosharetheGarifunacul
turewithothers.Withbothofthemworkingand
savinghardtobuildtheirhouseattheGarifuna
reservetheystruggledtoseehowthisvisioncould
becomearealitybut,decidingtheyhadtostart
somewhere,spentaweekenddesigningasign,
puttingpainttoplywood,anderectingthefinished
productoutsidetheirrentedhouse.
Thesigndiditsjob,piquinginterest,andRaybe
ganteachingfourlocalchildren.Hewasalsoen
gagedbyaPGguesthousetoprovideweekly
drumminglessonsfortheirguests,andinterest
quicklyspreadtoincludeperformancesand
lessonsatanumberoflodgesthroughout
theDistrict.
Rayisanengagingcharacterandaverypa
tientandskilledteacher.Beingfiercely
proudoftheGarifunaculture,lessonsare
filledwithanecdoteswhichprovideextra
insightintotheGarifunacultureaculture
whichwaslittleknownoutsideofthere
gionuntilrecently,butonewhichisnow
recognizedbyUNESCOasamasterpieceof
theoralandintangibleheritageofhuman
ity.
Rayclaimsthathecanteacheventhemost
nonmusicaltomasteratleastoneofthe
sixtraditionalGarifunarhythms,andIwas
curiousastowhetherheliveduptohis
reputation.IwonderedhowIwouldfareat
myfirstlesson(especiallybeingkack
handedwhichhadpreviouslyledtosome
interestingexperimentswithstringedin
struments),butRaybrokedownthesim
plestParandarhythmintoeasystagesthe
heavybeatfromtheleadhand,inter
spersedwithahalfbeat.Withina
fewminuteswewererocking
myprovidingtheleadbeatonthe
largersegundadrum,withRay
dazzlinguswithcomplexrhythms
onhissmallerprimerodrum,
handsmovingseeminglyatthe
speedoflight,beforebreaking
intosonginhisrich,mellow
voice.
Althoughmytechniquecould
havedonewithquitesomeim
provement,wethenmovedonto
theGunjeirhythm.Ohmy,not
onlywasalotmorebeatingin
volved,butsuddenlyyourhands
needtomovepositiononthedrum.Itlooked
amazinglycomplexbut,again,Raybrokeitdown
intosmallpartsandafewminuteslatertheone
twoandthreeandfourand(coupledwithaback
andforthfromthecentretotheedgeofthedrum)
wasstartingtobecomemorefluid.
Thedrumsthemselvesarealabouroflove,hol
lowedoutfromcedar,mahoganyoryemerilogs,
toppedwithdeerskinheldinplacebyvines,anda
wireorstringsnaretointensifythesound.(Note
toladies:youshoulddresssuitablysoastopre
serveyourmodestyalargedrumandshortskirt
canmakeforsomeprettyrevealingphotographs,
soshortorlongpantsareagoodidea).
EachGarifunarhythmisusuallyaccompaniedbya
differentstyleofsinginganddancing,withthe
Puntaprobablybeingthemostpopularstylein
Belize,andasclosetoanationaldanceasyou
canget.VisitorsareoftenmystifiedhowBeliz
eansareseeminglyabletomovetheirbutts
independentlyoftheirbody,andtheresa
widespreadmyththatBelizeanshavedevel
opedspecialmuscles.Raydisputesthat,and
alsoteachesGarifunaDancethesecret,he
says,isallinshiftingyourknees!Ruthagrees,
andshehasnowmasteredboththePuntaand
Parandadance,butIdecidedtoleavethose
lessonsforanotherday.
Warasahasgrownfromstrengthtostrength,
andtheyarehelpingtoraiseawarenessof
Toledoandourrichculturalheritage.Thisedi
tionoftheHowlercoincideswiththeirmove
fromWestStreettotheirnewhomeatthe
GarifunaReserveonNewRoad,arounda10
minutewalkfromtheairstripinPGTown.
TolearnmoreaboutWarasa,visittheirweb
siteatwww.warasadrumschool.com,andtheir
Facebookpagewww.facebook.com/
WarasaDrumSchool
OverthepastsevenyearsTheBattleoftheDrums
hasbecomeanintegralpartoftheGarifunacele
brationsthatculminatewithYurumein,there
enactmentofthearrivaloftheGarifunaonthe
shoresofBelizeon19November.
OntheeveningofFriday16NovembertheBattle
oftheDrumsFood&Fetebringspeopleto
getherfromallwalksoflifetosocialize,network
andenjoyaneveningofgoodfoodandgreatGari
funamusic.ItwillshowcaseGarifunaCuisinefused
withcontemporarycookingstyles,dishesand
menuspreparedbychefsfromtheRadissonFort
GeorgeinBelizeCity,LaruBeyainPlacenciaand
BelcampoLodgeofPuntaGorda.Itwillalsofea
turelocalandnationalGarifunamusicalperform
ersperforminggreatparandaandotherGarifuna
music.PerformerswillincludePaulNabor,Mario
andtheUmalaliGroup,GodfreyShoandtheCul
tureDynamicsandLascelleMartinezandthePG
Vibes.
TheBattleoftheDrumsCompetitiononSaturday
17Novemberisadrummingcompetitionand
showthatallowsgroupstocompeteanddisplay
theirmusicalartistryinplayingfivedifferentcate
goriesofGarifunadrumming.ThefirstBattleof
theDrumswasheldinPuntaGordaTownonNo
vember17,2006andwaswellreceivedbyspecta
torsfromhomeandabroad.In2007,therewas
evenabiggeraudienceandgreaterenthusiasm.In
2008theeventevolvedintoaninternational
drummingcompetitionandshowinvolvingdrum
minggroupsfromvariouspartsofBelizeaswellas
fromneighbouringGuatemalaandHonduras.
TheYurumeinCeremonytakesplaceat06:30.at
thePuntaGordaCooperativewharfareaandpre
sentsadramatizationthatdepictsthefirstarrival
oftheGarinagutotheshoresofBelize.Afterthe
reenactmentceremonythereisaparadethrough
theprincipalstreetsofPuntaGordaTownfol
lowedbyachurchservice.

Battle of the Drums

10

Service DepartPG Destination Callingat... Days ReturntoPG
Pop 10:30 GoldenStream Dump,BigFalls,IndianCreek Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat 06:45
Chub 11:30 CriqueSarco SanFelipe,SantaAna,Midway,Conejo,SundayWood Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat 05:15
Kan 11:30 Aguacate Dump,Mafredi,BlueCreek MontoSat 05:20
Chen 11:30 SanVicente
Dump,Mafredi,SanAntonio,SantaCruz(forRioBlanco),
SantaElena,PuebloViejo,Jalacte
Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat 02:00
Chunny 11:30 Jalacte
Dump,Mafredi,SanAntonio,SantaCruz(forRioBlanco),
SantaElena,PuebloViejo,Jalacte
MontoSat 03:00
Chunny 11:30 SanAntonio Dump,Mafredi MontoSat 06:00
Sho 11:30 SanJose YemeriGrove,Dump,Mafredi,CriqueJute,NahLumCa Wed/Sat 04:00
Cucul 11:30 SilverCreek Dump,SanPedroColumbia(forLubaantun),SanMiguel MontoSat 06:00
Pop 11:30 MedinaBank Dump,BigFalls,Hicatee,IndianCreek(forNimLiPunit) MontoSat 05:30
Bobby 11:00 SantaAna SanFelipe(forCyrilasChocolate) Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat 07:15
Cal 11:00 SilverCreek Dump,SanPedroColumbia(forLubaantun),SanMiguel MontoSat 07:00
JnL 12:00 Barranco SanFelipe(forCyrilasChocolate),SantaAna,Midway Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat 06:00
Ack 12:00 Dolores
Dump,Mafredi,Jordon,SantaTeresa,Mabilha,SanLucas,
CorazonCreek,Otoxha
Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat 03:00
Teck 12:00 SanBenitoPoite Dump,Mafredi,BlueCreek(forHokebHa),SantaTeresa Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat 04:30
Coc 12:00 SanAntonio Dump,Mafredi MontoSat 06:30
Coc 12:00 SanAntonio Dump,Mafredi MontoSat 13:30
Choc 12:00 SanJose Dump,Mafredi,CriqueJute,NahLumCah Mon/Fri 05:00
Shol 12:00 Laguna Elridgeville Wed/Fri/Sat
Pop 13:00 GoldenStream Dump,BigFalls,Hicatee,IndianCreek(forNimLiPunit) MontoSat 07:30
Cal 04:30 SilverCreek Dump,SanPedroColumbia,SanMiguel MontoSat 13:00
Bol 16:00 Jalacte
Dump,Mafredi,SanAntonio,SantaCruz(forRioBlanco),
SantaElena,PuebloViejo,Jalacte
Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat 15:00
Cucul 16:00 SilverCreek Dump,SanPedroColumbia,SanMiguel MontoSat 12:30
Chen 05:30 SanVicente
Dump,Mafredi,SanAntonio,SantaCruz,SantaElena,
PuebloViejo,Jalacte
Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat 14:00
Pop 17:00 IndianCreek Dump,BigFalls,Hicatee MontoSat 12:00
Bol 06:00 Jalacte
Dump,Mafredi,SanAntonio,SantaCruz,SantaElena,
PuebloViejo
MontoSun 05:00
Cucul 21:00 SilverCreek SanPedroColumbia,SanMiguel MontoThurs 16:00
Pop 21:00 IndianCreek Dump,BigFalls,Hicatee MontoThurs 15:30
Garcia 11:00 BigFalls Dump,Jacintoville, Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat 08:00
T O L E D O V I L L A G E B U S S E S
Slow travel - how to get around by bus
Oneofthedefiningelementsofslowtravelisthe
opportunitytobecomepartoflocallifeandto
connecttoaplaceanditspeople.Slowtravelis
aboutconnectiontoculture,andwhatbetter
waythantakingalocalvillagebus!
But,withsuchacomplexnetworkofvillagebusses
itcansometimesbedifficultforvisitorstofigure
outhowtheycangettovarioussites.Wevein
cludedourfulllistofthevillagebusses,sowork
throughitandyoullseethatyouareabletovisit
manyinlanddestinationsontheseretiredUS
schoolbusses.
Forexample,ifyouwantedtovisitLubaantunthen
youcouldtakealatemorningbustoSilverCreek
fromPGTown(bussesleavefromJoseMariaNunez
Street,nearTatesGuestHouse),askthedriverto
dropyouatthedrivewaytoLubaantun.TheSilver
CreekbusthenreturnstoPGTownat4pm,passing
theLubaantundrivewayaround4.20pm.
NimLiPunit,GoldenStreamSpiceFarm,and
GoldenStreamCorridorPreserve(forYaaxches
RangerforaDaypatrolhike)arealleasytoreach
bybothvillagebus,orJamesBus.
Therearemanybusseswhichheadtowardsthe
GuatemalanborderwhichstopinSantaCruzto
allowyoutovisitRioBlancoNationalPark.
Itsagreatwaytotravel,seeingarealsliceoflocal
life,andthefarescannotbebeaten!
TheDeerDancewillbeperformedinCriqueJutefrom19to21
December.VisitCriqueJutebybus!
TheChocbusandShobuspassthroughCriqueJuteontheir
waytoandfromSanJose
11

Flights
DepartPuntaGorda ArrivesBelizeCity ServiceProvider DepartBelizeIntl. ArriveInPuntaGorda ServiceProvider
06:45 07:55 MayaIslandAir 08:10 09:15 MayaIslandAir
06:30 07:30 TropicAir 07:50 09:00 TropicAir
09:30 10:35 MayaIslandAir 10:10 11:15 MayaIslandAir
09:20 10:20 TropicAir 10:20 11:30 TropicAir
11:30 12:35 MayaIslandAir 12:20 13:30 TropicAir
11:35 12:35 TropicAir 14:20 15:30 TropicAir
13:35 14:35 TropicAir 14:40 15:45 MayaIslandAir
16:00 17:05 MayaIslandAir 16:40 17:45 MayaIslandAir
16:00 17:10 TropicAir 16:40 17:40 TropicAir
JamesBusLineSchedule
DepartsP.G. ArrivesBelizeCity DepartsBelizeCity ArrivesP.G.
03:50 10:30 05:15Express(exceptSun) 10:30
04:50 11:30 06:15 12:45
05:50 12:30 07:15 13:45
06:00Express 10:45 08:15 14:45
07:50 14:30 09:15 15:45
09:50 16:30 10:15 16:45
11:50 18:30 12:15 18:45
13:50 20:30 13:45 19:45
14:50 21:30 15:15 21:45
15:50(exceptSat) 21:15 15:45Express 20:30
BoatsTo&FromPuertoBarrios,Guatemala
ServiceProvider DepPuntaGorda ArrivePuertoBarrios DepartPuertoBarrios ArrivePuntaGorda
RequenasCharterService 09:30 10:30 14:00 15:00
Pichilingo 14:00 15:00 10:00 11:00
Memos 13:00 14:00 15:00 16:00
BoatstoLivingstondepartonTuesdaysandFridaysat10a.m.
Marisol 16:00 17:00 13:00 15:00
T R A N S P O R T S C H E D U L E S
WheretogetyourcopyofTheToledoHowler
Distributionpointsinclude:
TourismInformationCentresthroughoutBelize
TropicAirandMayaIslandAirterminals
BTIAToledomembers
RequenasCharters,PuertoBarrios
Majorgasstations
Aswellasawideonlinepresenceinelectronicformat

PleasecontacttheToledoHowlerteamat7222531ifyouwouldliketobecomea
distributorforthevoiceoftourismdevelopmentinBelizesdeepsouth!
12

Backyard Birding for Science and Recreation
In1987,researchersatCornellUniversityinNewYork
startedaprogramforbackyardbirderscalled
CitizenScience.Thepurposeofthisprogramisto
encouragenonscientiststoparticipateinnation
wideprogramstohelpscientistslearnmoreabout
aviandistribution,seasonality,behavior,andlong
termpopulationtrends,simplybyobservingthe
birdsintheiryard,i.e.birdingwithapurpose.
Thesearethesortsofthingsornithologistsstudy.
Butthereareonlysomanyornithologiststogo
around.Imaginehundreds,oreventhousands,of
ordinarypeoplegatheringsmallbitsofdataon
thesefourparameterssimplybybecomingmore
awareofthebirdsintheirownyard.
Toascientist,everyyardrepresentsasmallsam
pleplotfromwhichmuchvaluableinformation
canbecollected.Ifyouconsideryourselfacasual
birder,youcancontributetolargescalestudies
likethesebykeepingrecordsonthecommon
birdsinyouryard.HowmanyKiskadeesresidein
youryard?Doesthisnumberchangeovertime?Is
thereaseasonalpattern?Alongtermdeclineor
increase?Randomfluctuations?Asteadynumber
ofbirdsthroughouttheyear?Whataboutother
speciesinyouryardthatyoucanidentify?Doyou
seethesamepatternsordifferentpatterns?You
mayrecognizethatafewspeciesarenotpresent
yearroundbutaremigratory.Thosethatarenot
hereyearroundincludeYellowWarbler,American
Redstart,GrayCatbird,WoodThrush,andSummer
Tanager.Allofthesebirdshavespecifictimesthat
theyarriveinfallandleaveinspring.
InNorthAmerica,ornithologistsarelearningthat
manyspeciesarearrivingearlierinspringthan
formerlyandleavinglaterinfall,oneindicatorthat
theplanetisgraduallywarming.Presumablythe
reverseofthisistrueinCentralAmerica.These
samespeciesthatspendthewinterinBelize
shouldbearrivinginfallonaveragealittlebitlater
eachyearandleavingalittlebitlatereachspring.
Butifdataonredstartsfromhundredsofbirders,
eachkeepingtrackofthebirdsintheirownyard,
showsthatonaverageredstartsarearrivinglater
infallthantheydidtenortwentyyearsago,then
wewouldhaveamuchstrongercaseforconclud
ingthatredstartsaremigratingsouthlaterinthe
fallthantheydidadecadeortwoago.
AugustisthemonththatmanyoftheNorth
AmericanwarblersbeginarrivinginBelize.Bymid
Septemberfallmigrationisinfullswing.Inearly
March,specieslikeSwallowtailedKite,Yellow
greenVireo,andSulphurbelliedFlycatcherreturn
fromwinteringgroundsinSouthAmericatonest
inBelize.Andsoon.Afterayearortwo,newspe
ciesmaybehardertoadd,butyouwillnever
reachtheendofthelist.Therewillalwaysbenew
speciestoadd.
Butmoreimportantly,youwillbegintoseetrends.
Youwilllearnthatdifferentspecieshavedifferent
patternsofoccurrence.TheLouisianaWaterthrush
arriveslikeclockworkeveryJuly,butitsclose
cousin,theNorthernWaterthrush,doesnotarrive
untilafullmonthlater.YellowWarblersarrivein
August,SummerTanagersinSeptember,GrayCat
birdsinOctober.Septemberisalsothemonth
thatEasternKingbirdscanbeseenpassingover
headbythehundreds,followingthecoastlineas
theyheadtoSouthAmericaforthewinter.InOc
tober,itwillbeHookbilledKites.InNovember,
TreeSwallows.OctoberandAprilarethemonths
tolookforScarletTanagersastheyheadsouth,
thennorth,commutingtoandfromwintering
groundsinSouthAmericaandbreedinggroundsin
NorthAmerica.Inadditiontothesepredictable
annualeventsareaseeminglyendlessnumberof
rarerspeciesthatmightturnuponlyafewtimes
inadecadeoronceinalifetime.
IknowsomeoneinBelizewhohasamassed247
speciesonhisyardlist.Granted,helivesinavery
birdyareaandhaslivedinthesamehouseforal
most20years,butthatisstillquiteanaccomplish
ment.Whatisevenmoreimpressivetomeisthat
20yearsagohewasntevenabirder.Nowheisan
expert,andmuchofthatlearningcurvewasac
complishedwithintheconfinesofhisownyard.
Butthemostimpressivethingofall?Hehaskept
dailynotesonthebirdsinhisyardandnowhasan
invaluablesetofdataonyouguesseditdistri
bution,seasonality,behavior,andlongtermpopu
lationtrendsthatcouldnothavebeenachieved
otherwise.
TheCitizenScienceprogrambegunbyCornellUni
versity25yearsagonowhasmorethan15,000
peopleparticipatingannuallytheUnitedStates
andCanada.Wecoulddothesamethingherein
Belize,albeitonasmallerscale.
Ifyouareinterestedinkeepingtabsonthebirds
thatresideinyouryard,dropbyforanoccasional
visit,orusetheaerialskywaysaboveyouryard,
contactmeatbzbirdman@gmail.comandIwill
helpyougetstarted.
H.LeeJones
WhitecollaredSeedeater
BlackcowledOriole
Record Your Sightings at eBird.org
Arealtime,onlinechecklistprogram,eBirdhasrevolutionizedthewaythatthebirdingcommunityre
portsandaccessesinformationaboutbirds.Launchedin2002bytheCornellLabofOrnithologyandNa
tionalAudubonSociety,eBirdprovidesrichdatasourcesforbasicinformationonbirdabundanceanddis
tributionatavarietyofspatialandtemporalscales.
eBird'sgoalistomaximizetheutilityandaccessibilityofthevastnumbersofbirdobservationsmadeeach
yearbyrecreationalandprofessionalbirdwatchers.Itisamassingoneofthelargestandfastestgrowing
biodiversitydataresourcesinexistence.Forexample,inMarch2012,participantsreportedmorethan3.1
millionbirdobservationsacrossNorthAmerica!
EachyearLeeJonesorganizesaChristmasbird
countindifferentareasofBelize.Thisyearsbird
countinToledowilltakeplaceonSaturday5th
January.Duringthedaywecountthenumberof
speciesaswellascountingorestimatingthenum
berofindividualsofeachspecies.Youdonthave
tobeanadvancedbirdertojoininalthougheach
groupwillbeledbyanexpert.Ifyouareinterested
thengetintouchwithLeeathisemailaddress
above.Theareaofourcountiswithinaradiusof
19milesfromPuntaGorda.
BelizeChristmasBirdCount
13

RestaurantGuide
Name Address Cuisine Phone OpeningHours
Colemans Cafe Big Falls Village, near the rice mill Belizean

720-2017 Daily: 11:30-16:00 & 18:00-21:00 (Reservations
Preferred)
Earth Runnins Caf and Bukut Bar Main Middle Street, PG Belizean/ International 702-2007
600-9026
Wed-Sun: 07:00- 14:00 & 17:00-23:00

Fajina Firehearth Food Front St, PG Local Mayan Food 666-6144 Mon-Sat: 07:00-19:30. Closed on Sundays
Gomiers Restaurant and SoyCentre Alejandro Vernon St, near PG Wel-
come sign
Local & international vegetar-
ian / Seafood
722-2929 Mon-Sat: 08:00-14:00 & 18:00-21:00. Closed
Sundays
Graces Restaurant Main St. PG Belizean/ International 702-2414 Daily: 06:00-22:00, including holidays
Hang Cheong
Restaurant
Main St, PG Chinese 722-2064 Daily: 10:00-14:00 & 17:00 -midnight
The Lodge at Big Falls Big Falls Village, near the rice mill International/ Belizean/ Mid-
dle Eastern
732-4444

Daily: 11:3014:00 & 18:3021:00
(Reservations Required)
Machaca Hill Lodge Wilsons Road Pan Central American and
International
722-0050 Lunch: noon-14:30. Dinner: 19:30-22:00.
(Reservations preferred)
Mangrove Restaurant Cattle Landing, bythe curve Belizean / International 722-2270 Daily: 17:00-22:00. (Reservations preferred)
Marians BayView Restaurant Front St, south of the market bythe
sea
East Indian/ Belizean 722-0129 Mon-Sat: 11:00-14:00 & 18:00-22:00 Sun &
Hols: noon 14:00 & 19:00-21:00
Martinas Kitchen BTL parking lot, PG Belizean 623-3330 Mon-Sat: 07:00-15:00. Closed on Sundays
Moms Restaurant Queen St, PG, bythe park Belizean 620-1607
661-1359
Mon-Sat: 06:00-14:00 &
16:00-21:00 Closed Sundays
Rainbow Cafe Queen St, PG, bythe park Belizean 631-2309 Mon-Sat: 70:00-14:00. Closed on Sundays
Rainforest Cafe Big Falls Village, just south of the
bridge
Belizean 669-0080 Daily: 10:00-22:00
Reef Bar & Restaurant Front St, upstairs bythe market International/ Belizean 625-8652 Daily: 10:00-14:00 & 16:00-midnight. Closed on
Tuesdays
Shos Local Restaurant Entrance to Blue Creek Village Belizean/ Catering 668-6540 Mon-Sat: 07:0020:00. Closed Sundays. Group
reservations required
The Snack Shack BTL parking lot, PG Breakfast & lunch/ Snacks,
shakes, juices & pastries
702-0020 Mon-Sat: 07:0015:00. Closed Sundays
Walucos

Opposite TIDE pier in Hopeville Belizean/ East Indian/
Seafood/ Catering
670-3672 Mon-Thurs: 07:00-14:00 & 17:00-22. Weekends:
07:00-late

Asha's Culture Kitchen 80 Front Street, south of market,
onlybuilding over the sea
Creole/ Seafood/ BBQ 632-8025 Dailyfrom 11:00-14:00 (lunch onlyduring high
season) 16:00-24:00 (dinner/ bar year-round),
closed on Thursdays.
Wat dat smell? Wats Cookin? I hungry...

LionfishCeviche
2largelionfish,cleanedandfilletedanddicedintosmallpieces
3limes
1bunchofcilantro,finelychopped
2tomatoes,diced
1mediumonion,diced
3clovesofgarlic,finelychopped
1habaneropepper,deseededandfinelychopped
Saltandpeppertotaste

Putthelionfishinamixingbowl&squeezethe
juicefromthelimesuntilallthefishiscovered.
Whilethelionfishismarinating,choptherestof
thevegetables.Mixtheonion,garlic,tomatoes,
habanero&cilantro(coriander)together.
Stiralltheingredientsintothelionfishandlime
juice.Seasonwithsalt&peppertotaste.
Putintoarefrigeratorforabout4hours.
Servewithtortillachips.

ThankstoReefCIfortheirlionfishcevicherecipe!
ReefCIoffersvolunteerdiveconservationtripstotheSapodillaCayes.
YoucanreadmoreabouttheSapodillaCayesandwhalesharksinthe
nexteditionoftheToledoHowlerpublishedinFebruary2013,andvisit
www.ReefCI.comtolearnmoreabouttheirconservationwork.

Eatemtobeatem!
LionfishhavebeenmultiplyingintheCaribbeanformore
thanadecade,andhavefewnaturalpredatorsoutside
theirnativehabitatinthePacificaroundAustraliaand
Indonesia.Belizehasneverseenamassmarine
invasionofthiskindbefore,andmanypeopleare
concernedthatitwillsetoffacascadeofecological
damagetonativefish,coralreefs,andtheir
delicatehabitat,aswellasthreateningour
fisheriesindustry.
Belizehasdeclaredwaronlionfish,andis
makingaconcertedefforttoridourwaters
oftheseinvaders.Whatbetterwaythanto
catchthemandeatthem!
14

The Living Maya Experience
TheLivingMayaExperienceisasetofthree
distinctculturalhomevisitsinBigFallsand
Hicateethatmarketthemselvesco
operativelybutoperateindependently.
TheChiacfamilyhavemadetheirlivingfromsell
ingcraftstoothervillagersanduntilnowhavenot
realizedthepotentialforsaleoftheircraftstoin
ternationalvisitors.JuanChiacmakeslargebas
kets,hammocks,shoulderbags,palmfansand
smallrosewoodcarvings.HiswifeHilariaweaves
cuxtalbags.
Itisonlywhenyouvisitthefamilythatyourealize
theamountofworkthatgoesintomakingabas
ketfromthetaitaivine.FirstJuanmusthikeinto
theforesttocollectthevines.Hethenstripsthe
barkfromthevineonthespotandpackstherolls
ofvineintohissacktobringhome.Backhomethe
vinesarestretchedoutanddriedbeforeuse.To
makehammockshecollectsthelongleavesofthe
henequenplant.Henequenisamemberofthe
Agavefamilyanditsleaveswhichmaybesixor
sevenfeetlongarepackedwithstrongfibers.He
manuallyspinsthefibresintoastrongthreadfrom
whichhemakeshammocksand
bags.Thisalreadysoundslikea
wholelotofwork,andremem
berthathehasyettomakeany
thing!
VisitorstotheChiacscanall
haveagoatmakingthesecrafts
underthetutelageofJuan,Hi
lariaandtheirdaughterMarta.
Thevisitlastsacoupleofhours.
Thetimereallyfliesbyand
guestsleavewiththeirfacemus
clesachingfromallthelaughing
theyhavedone;mainlyatthem
selves.
CristobalCalandhiswifeAnita
haveoftentalkedabouttheloss
oftraditionalwaysandknowl
edgeastheeldersinthecom
munitypassononebyone.In
ordertostemthislossandgive
theyoungergenerationpridein
theirpastheandAnitahavecre
atedaMayanhomeasitwould
havelookedbeforetheadvent
ofelectricity,plasticandpackag
ingandotheraspectsofthe
modernworld.Theyhaveabed
inwhichthemattressismade
fromtherolledoutbarkofthe
macapalormohotreeanda
benchseatmadefromabalsa
trunk.Theygrowfourdifferentkindsofcorn,
white,yellow,redandblack,haveamanglepress
forextractingthesugarfromtherawcaneanda
sackofberriesfromthesoapberrytreeforguests
tousetowashtheirhandsbeforeeating.Yes,they
alsopreparemealsfortheirguestswhocanrollup
theirsleevesandgetinvolvedinthepreparation
withAnitaandherdaughters.Theirguestsalso
roastandgrindcacaobeanstomakecocoadrunk
fromacalabashbowl.
PabloRashisafarmerlivingclosetothejunction
atHickateejustnorthofBigFalls.HeisalsoaMa
yanhealerandusesavarietyofherbsandplants
inhistreatments.Heisdevelopingaherbalmedi
cinegardenaroundhishousesetonthetopofa
hill.Inthiswayhewillbeabletoshowvisitors
whichplantsheusesfordifferentailmentsand
treatmentsandthegardenwillalsoaidhisown
practicesincehewillhavemoreoftheimportant
plantscloseathand.
Togetherthesethreehomevisitsgiveguestsafas
cinatinginsightintotheMayanwayoflife.Each
visittakesacoupleofhoursandvisitorsdecide
whichtheywouldliketoexperienceortheycanif
theywishplanthetimetovisitallthree.

HowtobookyourLivingMayaexperience:
livingmayaexperience@gmail.com
AnitaCal6277408
MartaChiac6324585
PabloRash6365227
CraftmakingattheChiacs.
Young Alva gives Judy a lesson in tortilla making
Mrs Basilia Cal grinding cocoa beans.
15

Thebiggestsurprisetome,myfirsttime
onthezipline,wasthehighpitchedzing
ingsoundasthemetaltrolleysglideover
thesteelcables.
ThesecondwasthatImanagedtoovercome
myfearofheightsandgettoquiteenjoythe
feelingoflaunchingmyselfoffawoodenplat
formhighabovetheforestfloorandglideef
fortlesslytothenextlandingplatform.Abitlike
Tarzanwithoutthelianavinestoswingon,and
noJaneeither.
Theziplinehassixrides.Thatissixsectionsbe
tweenlandingplatformseitherupinthetrees
ordownonthegroundwithfourcrossingsof
theRioGrandealongtheway.Thedifferent
sectionsrangefrom350450feet.Attheendof
eachrideisalandingplatformandtakeoffplat
formforthenextride.Assoonasyouarriveat
eachplatformtheguideshookgueststofixed
pointssothateveryoneiswellanchoredtothe
platform.
Safetyofguestsisthenumberonepriorityfor
AndrewCaliz,DavidFrancohispartnerandtheir
staff.Davidsaid,Everydaywearelookingfor
thingstoimprove.Thelinewasdesignedwith
safetyinmind.Forthisreasontheyhaveadou
blecable,doublecarabinersanddoubletrolleys
withtheriderharnessedatthreepoints.And
properbriefingandorientationareallpartof
theemphasisontheenjoymentofguestsina
safeenvironment.Rigorousstafftrainingand
certificationasguidesisalsopartoftheirpro
fessionalapproachaswellastheiruseofthe
highestqualityequipmentfromNorthAmerica
andEurope.
Aswellastheziplinetheyofferrivertubingon
aroutethatgoesaboutamilefromjustnorth
ofBigFallsvillageback
downstreamtodisembark
underthebridge.Onthe
wayguestscanmakeastop
atthecreekthatentersthe
RioGrandefromahot
springonthehillsidehalfa
mileaway.Whilenothot,
thewaterisstillwarmand
gettingbackintothemain
riverafterareststophere
isachillysurprise.
TheyuseCanadianTubePro
tubeswhichhavetheop
tionoflashingaseatinto
theholealthoughmost
visitorsprefertofloatwith
theirderriereinthewater.
Thewholetubetriptakes
aroundanhourwitha
twentyminutestoptowal
lowinthecreek.
TheseasonalityofthetourismbusinessinBelize
affectsBigFallsExtremeAdventuresjustlike
anyother.Andrewsays,Therearedayswhen
itistoughbutmostdaysItotallyenjoywhatIm
doingandIhaveafeelingthatwewillhavea
betterseasonthisyear.
Andtheyhavenotfinisheddeveloping.Andrew
andDavidhaveplanstoputinfasterrunsas
wellasalongerride
of12001500hun
dredfeet.AsDavid
commented,
Everydayweare
lookingforthingsto
improve.Nextyear
theywillbephoto
graphingguestsonthelineandprintingphotos
forgueststotakeawaywiththemandtheirres
taurantthatoffersBelizeanfoodwillbeextend
ingtheirmenu.
Thisisagreatdayoutforareasonableprice.
Youcanfinddetailsontheirwebsiteanda
greatvideooftheexperienceonYouTube.It
combineseasilywithavisittotheLivingMaya
Experiencejustacrosstheriver.

Big Falls Extreme Adventures

Gettingready,lastminutechecks.
Gliding sixtyfeet over the river!
Findoutmore
Tel:+5016346979or+5016313497
Email:info@bigfallsextremeadventures.com
FacebookBigFallsExtremeAdventures
YouTubehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnT973AdIisZipLineand
RiverTubingnSouthernBelize4:23minutevideo
TripAdvisorhttp://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Reviewg2507140
d2484439ReviewsBig_Falls_Extreme_AdventuresBig_Fall_Toledo.html
http://www.bigfallsextremeadventures.com/
16

Arzu Mountain Spirit on Medicinal Plants: Piss-a-Bed
Pissabed(SennaAlata)isalargeevergreen
leafsennaplantknownalsoascandlebush,
senna,candlestick,andringwormbush.It
isabeautifulwildfloweringbushwitha
generousbrightyellowbloom.ThisBelize
rainforestnativegrowsuptotenfeetin
heightandislovedbybees,butterflies,
birds,andnativehealers.
EverybodyinBelizeknowsofPissabedusein
purgeandpiss,butwehavepaidlittlehomageto
theotherhealingmarvelsthisaptlynamedplant
iscapableof.
IfirstbecameinterestedinthePissabedwhen
myunclegaveanaccountofhavingusedthe
juiceandpulpofthisplanttohealaskindiscol
orationdisorderthataffectedhislegs.ThePissa
bedleafjuicetreatmentcompletelyclearedthe
conditionandithasneverreturned.
Sciencefinallylentcredencetomyunclesheal
ingwhen,in1994,afteratenyearhumanstudy
inIndia,researchfoundPissabedleafjuicein
deedtobeareliableherbaltreatmentforskin
discoloration.FindingsrevealedthatPissabed
leafjuicekillsthefungusthatpreventsskincells
fromproducingcolor.
TheGarifunanameforPissabedisGanibisi,and
everyGarifunacommunityhasareveredGanibisi
bushsomewhereintheirlot.Medicinaltradition
prescribesGanibisileafteaforintestinalpurging,
bloodcleansing,andforloweringbloodsugar.
Theteaisalsousedtoimprovedigestion,and
canbedoubledinstrengthtoreduceexcesswa
terinthebody,alleviateswelling,andrelieve
pain.
Pissabedisrecognizedbysciencetocontaina
groupofchemicalsthatareknownlaxatives.In
2003scientistsproducedevidencethatPissa
bedleavesarenotonlyantiinflammatory,but
alsohavepainrelieving,andhypoglycemic
(loweringbloodsugar)properties.
MorerecentstudiesrevealedthatPissabed
leavesalsocontainachemicalwiththeabilityto
reducestickybloodanddissolvearterialplaque
(asincholesterol).Itistreasuredbyfarmerswho
saveonveterinaryexpensesbyusingtheleaf
pulpontheiranimalstotreatskinafflictionslike
mange,fungus,removingticks,mites,andother
externalparasites.Asatopicaltreatment,it
worksforthosewhouseit.Healersandnon
healersalikecanmashtheleavesofthisplant
intoanallpurposeskinsalveanduseittotreat
insectbites,ringworm,syphilissores,herpesul
cers,scabies,shingles,eczema,skinsores,ripen
boils,evenoutskintone/color,relieveitching,
andanytypeofrash.
Althoughthisplantisanintelligenthealerbyde
sign,itisnotadvisabletotryinternalPissabed
treatmentwithoutconsultingaqualifiedherbal
ist.Itisusedbyhealerstotreatincontinenceand
preventbedwetting.DrinkingPissabedteain
creasesurinationand,(hencethename)will
makeyoupissanybed.
Itwillalsomakeyousweat.Itisanexcellent
herbalremedyfordetoxificationasithelpsclean,
strengthenandtonetheorgansofboththeuri
naryanddigestivesystem.Pissabedisnot
takenformorethansevenconsecutivedays.And
itisNOTtobetakenalongwithanydiuretic
medicationorpharmaceuticals.
Pissabedisaneasytopropagatelowmainte
nanceplant.Itgrowsfromseeds,rootballs,and
cuttings.Allowforthepodstodryontheplants
andbreakthemopentocollecttheseeds.The
seedslastalongtime,canbestored,andcan
keepforuptoayear.Onceplanted,itwillself
sowfreelyaslongasithasfullsun.Itbegins
floweringfrom4feetandcontinuestodoso
everyyear.Pissabedmakesagorgeousaddition
toanygarden.

Contributedby
ArzuMountainSpirit(LafuruguWubu)
GarifunaHerbalistandTraditionalHealer
arzu@arzumountainspirit.com
Senna Alota, a Belizean rainforest native plant
17

BTIA Toledo, and the Toledo Howler
Togetherwerestronger!BecomeapartofBTIA
andmakeapracticalcontributiontotheeconomic
developmentofToledoDistrict,andbenefitfrom
ourpromotionalwork.Wemeetmonthlyatthe
TourisminformationCentreonFrontStreet.
HowDoIJoinBTIA?
Visit www.btia.org to read about BTIA and all the
membershipbenefitsandtodownloadanapplica
tion form. Complete the form and hand it in at
theTourismInformationCenteronFrontSt.
BTIAToledoofficers
Chair:DennisGarbutt
Secretary:RobHirons
Treasurer:DonaScafe
MarketingOfficer:DilmaYolandaCano

TheHowleriswritten,editedandproducedby:
DilmaCano:btiatoledo@btl.net,7222531
RobHirons:rob@thelodgeatbigfalls.com
MartaHirons:marta@thelodgeatbigfalls.com
KateMorton:cottages@hickatee.com
18

Port Honduras Marine Reserve
MentionToledotosomepeopleandyoustillrun
asmallriskoftheirconjuringupanimageofthe
wettestdistrict,andMayavillages.Ofcourse
wegetsignificantrainfall(mostofitatnight),and
wehaveasizeableKekchiandMopanMayapopu
lation(alongsidemanyothercultures),butdont
forgetourrainforesttoreefreputation,withtwo
marinereservestheSapodillaCayesaround35
milesoffshore,andPortHondurasjustafewmiles
northofPuntaGordatown.
ThePortHondurasMarineReservewasde
claredaprotectedareain2000anareaof
over160squaremilesofhighbiodiversity,
whichprovidesacriticallinkbetweenterres
trialandmarineecosystems.Thatallsounds
verycommendable,butwhatdoesitmean
forthevisitor?Therealityisthatstringent
managementofthereserve,coupledwith
themanysmallcayesdottedthroughoutthe
Reserve,providesagreathabitatnotonlyfor
marinelife,butalsoagreatmarineexperi
encefortourists.
TheReserveisafavouriteareaforworldclassfly
fishermen,manyofwhomreturnyearafteryear
toattempttheirgrandslamcatchofsnook,tar
pon,andpermit,aswellasbonefish,andPG
boastssomeextremelytalentedflyfishingguides.
SnorkellerslovethetranquilityofWestSnakeCaye
atwoacrepalmcoveredgem,boastingsandy
beachesandtheoccasionalredboasnakeinthe
interiorandthattheyareoftentheonlypeople
inthearea.ArecentadditiontotheToledoTour
ismportfolioaretheintroductorySCUBAdiving
coursestakingadvantageoftheshallowwaters
aroundtheCayefordivinginstruction,leadingto
divingamongstthecoralformationssurrounding
theisland.
Itsobviouslynotguaranteed,butvisitorsoften
seepodsofdolphinsontheirwayoutorbackfrom
PortHonduras,andmanateescanbesightednear
DeepRiver.
TheMarineReserveiscomanagedbyTIDE
(www.TIDEbelize.org)andtheFisheriesDepart
ment,whohaveintroducedstrictnotakezones
innurseryareas,andwhopatrolthewaterstoen
surecompliancewiththeregulationsinforceto
protectthevariousecosystems.Tourswillusually
involveavisittotheTIDERangerStationatAba
loneCayetopaytheUS$10Reserveentrancefee,
butalsotolearnfromtheRangersaboutTIDEs
work.Youarealsowelcometoclimbtheobserva
tiontowerforsomegreat360degreeviewsof
PortHondurasor,ifyourenotafanofheights,
oneoftheRangersisusuallyhappytotakephotos
onyourbehalf.
LesserknownpartsoftheReserveincludeWild
CaneCaye,animportantMayaarcheologicalsite.
ItsnaturalharborandproximitytoDeepRiver
madeitanaturalancienttradingpostthatre
emergedinrecenthistoryinadifferentformasa
portofcallfortheHeronH(thepassenger,mail
andfreightboatwhichactedasthemainsourceof
transportationbetweenPGandBelizeCityuntil
themid70s)
Archaeologist,DrHeatherMcKillopconductedin
depthresearchatWildCaneCaye,buthasmore
recentlybeenworkingatPaynesCreekNational
Park,whichliestothenorthandeastofPortHon
duras.CallinattheBTIAToledoTourismInforma
tionCentretoviewtheexhibit!
Howtogetthere?Snorkellingandfishingtripsare
offeredbyTIDETours,GarbuttsMarine,andTibu
ronTours.IntroductorySCUBAcoursesareavail
ablethroughGarbuttsMarine.
Contactdetails:
TIDETours(www.tidetours.org)
tel7222129,emailinfo@TIDEtours.org
GarbuttsMarine(www.garbuttsfishinglodge.com)
tel7220070,emailgarbuttsmarine@yahoo.com
TiburonTours
tel6022483,emaildancastellanosbz@gmail.com
PaynesCreekNationalParkandtheancientMaya
PaynesCreekNationalParkishometothe
onlyknownClassicMayawoodenstructures
whilstwoodandotherorganicmaterialsdont
usuallysurvive,thewaterloggedenvironmentat
PaynesCreekcreateduniquepreservationcondi
tions,givingarareglimpseofhowtheancient
Mayausedtimber.
Athreeyearproject,ledbyLouisianaStateUni
versityProfessor,HeatherMcKillop,willseethe
constructionofanobservationalplatformin
PaynesCreekNationalPark.Visitorswillbeableto
observetheunderwaterarchaeologicalsite
throughawindowintheplatformwithoutanyrisk
ofdamagingtheremains.
Aspartoftheprojecttwoexhibitswereopened
oneattheTourismInformationCentreonFront
Street,whichincludesaMayacanoepaddle,
andthesecondattheTIDERangerStationin
PaynesCreek.
Theseexhibits,inconjunctionwithaseriesof
workshopsandtalks,aredesignedtoraise
awarenessofthisuniqueMayasite,andwill
beexpandedperiodically,Awebsiteforar
chaeologicaltourismisalsoplanned.

Whenandwhere?
VisittheexhibitattheToledoTourismInfor
mationCentreduringopeninghours,Monday
toFriday8amto4pm,orvisitPaynesCreek
NationalParkthroughwww.TIDEtours.org,
emailinfo@TIDEtours.orgorcall7222129
SketchplanoftheproposedUnderwaterMayaobservation
platforminPaynesCreekNationalPark
19

Business ContactPerson PhoneNumber Email
Requena'sCharterService JulioRequena 7222070 watertaxi@btl.net
HickateeCottages Ian&KateMorton 6624475 cottages@hickatee.com
DreamlightComputerCenter TimothyDami 7020113 dreamlightpg@yahoo.com
BigFallsExtremeAdventures AndrewCaliz 6346979 andrewcaliz@bigfallsextremeadventures.com
Coleman'sCaf Thomas&PearleenColeman 6304069,6304432 belizetom@aol.com
CoralHouseInn AleCho 7222878 coralhousebelize@yahoo.com
TheLodgeatBigFalls Rob&MartaHirons 7324444,6716677 info@thelodgeatbigfalls.com
CatarinaChoco CatarinaChoco 6346772 catarinachoco@gmail.com
ToledoTourGuideAssociation BTIAOffice 6372000 ttga@gmail.com
Garbutt'sFishingLodge DennisGarbutt 7220070,6043548 garbuttsmarine@yahoo.com
YvonneandAlfredoVilloria YvonneVilloria 6327929 demdatsdoin@btl.net
BelcampoLodge ShirleymaeParham 7220050 info@belcampobz.com
DwightWoodye DwightWoodye
Cyrila'sChocolate JuanCho 7424050 theorganicmaster@gmail.com
CuxlinHaTimeShare DonaScafe 7324747 cuxlinha@hotmail.com
SunCreekLodge BrunoKuppinger 6656778,6042124 belizewoodworks@gmail.com
BeyaSuites LisaAvila 7222188 info@beyasuites.com
TranquilityLodge Lee&SusanOltmann 6779921 tranquilitylodge28@gmail.com
MayaAntandBeeGroup MarthaCuz 6632091 mayaantandbee@gmail.com
TheFarmInn PetroSteunenberg 7324781,6044918 info@thefarminnbelize.com
YumKaxWomens'Group ConcepcionaCoc 6628539 chocmercedes@yahoo.com
BelizeWoodWorksLtd BrunoKuppinger 6656778,6042124 belizewoodworks@gmail.com
Asha'sCultureKitchen Ashton&StacyMartin 6328025 sbrown1031@gmail.com
WarasaGarifunaDrumSchool Ruth&RonaldMcDonald 6327701 warasadrumschool@gmail.com
GoldenStreamPlantation Thomas&TessyMathew 7202014 goldenstreamspicefarm@gmail.com
LivingMayaExperience AnitaCal&MartaChiac 6277408,6324585 livingmayaexperience@gmail.com
C U X L I N HA RET I REMENT
VI L L AGE
For Rent
2-Bedroom Cottages
1-Bedroom Condo
Studio Apartments
Assisted living care
011-501-732-4747
cuxlinha@hotmail.com
www.cuxlinha.com

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