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TRAVEL+LEI SURE JULY 2014 101

With forward-thinking chefs, green urban


spaces, and a aid-back sensibiity, Portand,
Oregon, is the perfect weekend getaway.
Kathryn OShea-Evans checks out the scene.
Photographed by Dina Avia
Our Definitive Guide to
A mura of
Mount Hood
at Danner, an
Oregon-based
boot company
in downtown
Portand.
PORTLAND
ACE HOTEL
Everything youd expect
from the Ace brand is at this
Portand outpost in the West
End: hoodie robes, Pendeton
bankets, and, in Deuxe rooms,
turntabes (and LPs from oca
egends such as Pink Martini).
The new bar- meets- breakfast-
buffet in Room 215 is fu of
oca fare, from Cyde Common
granoa and house-made rhubarb
jam to Oympic Provisions
charcuterie and smoked trout.
acehotel.com. $$
THE HEATHMAN
Adjacent to the Arene Schnitzer
Concert Ha, this 1927 mainstay
has Art Decoinspired interiors
and a contemporary art coection
with works by Andy Warho, Hap
Tivey, and Henk Pender. Dont miss
the hotes weekend brunch (order
the mated Begian waffes with
brandy-soaked cherry compote).
portland.heathman hotel.com. $$$
THE NINES
On the upper foors of Portands
1909 Meier & Frank department
store, the Nines has 331 rooms
decorated in Tiffany-bue
vevets and dark woods. At night,
head to Departure, the rooftop
Pan-Asian restaurant and bar, for
coconut-cream cocktais and an
Instagram- worthy view of Mount
Hood and Mount St. Heens
vocano. thenines.com. $$
RIVERPLACE
Tucked away on a quiet bend
of the Wiamette River, the
85-room Kimpton was recenty
revamped with an Out of Africa
aesthetic (tufted eather
headboards; braided-rope
armchairs; triba art). Borrow a
bike to expore the waterfront,
then return to the hotes obby
ounge for a negroni. riverplace
hotel.com. $$
HOTEL DELUXE
Buit in 1912, the Hote Deuxe
has Hoywood Regency interiors,
with stis from cassic movies
by Afred Hitchcock, Frank
Capra, and more. We ove the
Marene Dietrich Suite, with
its eight-foot circuar bed and
shimmering crysta amps.
hoteldeluxe portland.com. $$
THE SENTINEL
A Rose City icon since 1909, this
100-room grande dame is fresh
from a top-to-bottom overhau.
The Northwest-stye touches
incude mounted wooden deer
heads, framed Coumbia Gorge
sword ferns, and souvenirs of
genuine Portand rain in the
mini-bar. governorhotel.com. $$
Stay
North Portand This
rapidy gentrifying arts
district is dotted with
gaeries and shops.
Northwest Victorian
town houses and boutiques
ine the streets of this
eafy neighborhood.
Od Town Wecome to
Chinatown, where street
food vendors hawk
snacks and stores se
quirky bric-a-brac.
Pear District With
its warehouses now
converted into uxury ofts,
the Pear District is
downtown Portands
upscae stye center.
Southeast This sprawing
area has indie shops and
Craftsman bungaows;
its aso home to Division
Street, the citys newy
minted restaurant row.
West End In downtowns
creative hub, hipsters
converge at packed cafs
and buzzy ounges.
Getting Around
To expore the city, hop on
a bike (pedalbiketours.com),
take the TriMet ight rai
(trimet.org), or rent a car.
Lay of
the Land
Looking for a high-design retreat downtown? Or a distinctive
waterfront andmark? Here, the citys top hotes.
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Aband of ex-Nike executives recently opened Widfang(wildfang.com),
a well-curated boutique that stocks trendy mens-style shirts and suits for
women(Wildfang means tomboy inGerman). Among the 80 brands:
Tilda Swintonworthy labels suchas Shades of Grey and Red Wing boots
inspired by Annie Oakley. At Beam & Anchor (beamandanchor.com), you
will nd ties made fromvintage Japanese boro fabric, wild-harvested
Douglas r tea, and Eames rocking chairs reupholstered inthe workroom
upstairs. Ina 1910 former wool warehouse, the Portland agship of
interiors shop Schoohouse Eectric (schoolhouseelectric.com) carries
hand-loomed herringbone rugs, exposed-bulb chandeliers, and tufted
velvet headboards withkiln-dried alder-wood frames. For leather hiking
boots, head to Danner (danner.com), a Portland-based shoe company
beloved by loggers and indie musicians.
Shop
See
+
Do
Five spots worth the trip.
Our picks for made-in-Portand
cothing, housewares, and more.
Cockwise from
top: Skopik & Lohn;
inside Steirereck; a
pate of puntaree,
artichoke, ychee
tomatoes, and
yeow-foot
mushrooms at
Steirereck.
1
Portand Art
Museum The odest
museum in the Northwest
houses neary 800
Japanese woodbock
prints and indigenous
work excavated from the
Coumbia River Gorge. This
summers premier exhibit:
The Art of the Louvres
Tuieries Garden, which
considers the Paris park as
inspiration for paintings by
Manet and Pissarro, and
arge-scae scuptures by
Antoine Coysevox.
portland artmuseum.org.
2
Pittock Mansion
Buit in 1914 for the
owner of the Oregonian
newspaper, this French
Renaissancestye estate
is open for tours and
popuar with bird-
watchers, who come to
spot raptors and warbers.
We suggest combining
your visit with a hike on the
five-mie Lower Maceay
Park Trai, past od-growth
evergreens and Bach
Creek. pittockmansion.org.
3
Smith Teamaker
Years after oca
entrepreneur Steven
Smith started (and sod)
Stash Tea and Tazo,
he aunched this tea
company with a tasting
room in a 1900s
backsmiths shop.
Order the tea fight for
a guided tour of varied
infusions (our favorite,
Jasmine Pears, is
hand-roed and scented
with jasmine bossoms).
smithtea.com.
4
Portand
Japanese Garden
Hidden away in the
West His overooking
the city are neary six
acres of cutivated
gardens inspired by
Japanese botanica
design. Cross iris-
embeished bridges and
a waterfa in the Stroing
Pond area, then Zen out
in the raked karesansui
Sand and Stone Garden.
japanese garden.com.
5
Powes Books
A bibiophies mecca,
this 68,000-square-foot
bookstore is fied with
new and used tites and
hosts frequent author
readings (recent notabes:
Junot Daz and Jimmy
Carter). In the rare- book
room, you find two
first-edition 1814
voumes by Meriwether
Lewis and Wiiam Cark
priced at $350,000. (Yes,
that quaifies for free
shipping.) powells.com.
TRAVEL+LEI SURE JULY 2014 103
From eft: A room
at the Sentine;
the obby at the
Ace Hote.
The Tom & Gretchen Hoce
Gaery at the Portand
Art Museum. Left: Outside
the museum. Beow: Hiking
to the Pittock Mansion.
Widfang
boutique.
AVA GENES
At this trattoria-inspired spot
owned by Stumptown Coffee
founder Duane Sorenson, chef
Joshua McFadden turns out
Itaian dishes such as rabbit
agnootti with chicory and striped
bass with duck-egg mayonnaise.
avagenes.com. $$$
CASTAGNA
Justin Woodward, a Noma aum,
spotights foraged ingredients
at Castagna. What to expect? A
12-course tasting menu with such
dishes as Dungeness crab and
yeow-foot chanterees with an
infusion of hops. castagna
restaurant.com. $$$$
LAURELHURST MARKET
A former convenience store is
now an airy brasserie and a
popuar butcher shop. Standout
menu items incude the pan-
seared imperia Wagyu steak
with carameized radicchio.
laurelhurst market.com. $$$
LE PIGEON
Grab a seat at the bar of James
Beard Awardwinning chef
Gabrie Ruckers kitchen to
watch tattooed cooks turn out
meat- centric patters: beef-
cheek bourguignonne andof
course squab, served here
with kumquats and charred
marrowbone. lepigeon.com. $$$
MULTNOMAH
WHISKEY LIBRARY
Portands hottest restaurant is
a speakeasy-ike bar in a former
piano store, with stained-
gass skyights and more than
1,100 types of whiskey. Order
an Od-Fashioned from the
roving bar cart and, for dinner,
Kentucky fried quai with a
smoked-bue-cheese biscuit.
mwlpdx.com. $$$
NED LUDD
Chef Jason French cooks
everything on his menu over a
cherry- and mape-wood fire.
The resut: roasted Idaho trout
and charred brusses sprouts
with emon, feta, and farro
a presented on mismatched
vintage pates. Pair it with
house-made nette soda.
nedluddpdx.com. $$
ROE
Sip through the hidden back
door at Bock & Tacke restaurant
and enter an otherwordy
seafood paradise. The four-
course tasting menu might
incude poached-caamari
ceviche with a Thai herb
emusion and ime crisp or
mero (sea bass) with hedgehog
mushrooms. roe-pdx.com. $$$
SEN YAI
Andy Rickers atest venturea
drive-up Thai-street-food noode
shopjoins his bucket-ist stop
Pok Pok. Try the Singaporean
coconut curry rice noode soup
and any of the vinegar spritzers.
pokpoksenyai.com. $
Just 30 mies outside
Portand, two of Oregons
pioneering wine famiies
have new, modern tasting
rooms. At Soko Bosser
(sokolblosser.com), the first
LEED-certified winery
faciity in the United States,
a cedar-waed and hickory-
foored room overooks the
red his of Dundee; sampe
the Pinot Noir. In summer,
you can take a four-hour
guided hike through the
vineyardscompete with a
picnic unch. A brief drive
north, the 130-acre Ponzi
Vineyards (ponzi wines.com)
is known for its fruity Arneis.
Bring a gass of Pinot Gris
to the bocce court or stay in
the airy tasting room for a
fight with smoked samon,
ricotta, and house-made
crackers. The Aison Inn &
Spa (theallison.com; $$$) is
a cozy pace for a night or
two; a 85 rooms have gas
firepaces, soaking tubs,
and baconies ooking out
over the vines.
Where to dine in Portand now.
Wine
Country
Detour
Eat
Here, the paces to
sip and stay in the
Wiamette Vaey.
TRAVEL+LEI SURE JULY 2014 105
PORTLAND
Mutnomah Whiskey
Library. Left: The dining
room at Castagna.
Beow: A terrarium with
cipoini-onion custard
and pea vines at Castagna.
106 JULY 2014 TRAVEL+LEI SURE
Loca Take
I cant think of a more inspiring
destination to begin a Portland
adventure than Mt. Tabor Park
(portlandoregon.gov). Hike or bike to
the summit for a stunning view of the
city. For lunch, dont miss Costeos
Trave Caff (costellos travelcafe.com)
on Northeast Broadway, my go-to
neighborhood hangout. It has the best
chocolate pie in town. A short walk
away, you can sample wines at Great
Wine Buys (greatwinebuys.com); the
staf members always recommend
exceptional reds, whites, and
sparkling from both near and far.
I love the feeling of being a regular,
so I go to the same places a lot.
Davenport (davenport pdx.com; $$),
a restaurant in Northeast, focuses on
local avors and has an excellent
wine list. Try the nettle dumpling in
chicken broth. On Southeast 82nd,
Ha VL (503/772-0103; $) is a hole-in-
the-wall Vietnamese joint with solid
bnh m; the two soup specials sell
out quickly, so get there early. Nearby,
Hong Phat (hongphat market.com)
is an Asian grocery store thats
become my one- stop shop for unique
ingredients like banana blossoms.
My favorite spots happen to be
within a single block on North
Mississippi Avenue. Reading Frenzy
(reading frenzy.com) is an amazing
small-press bookstore thats been
a Portland institution since the
nineties. It shares a building with
Back Book Guitars (blackbook
guitars.com), a left-of-center music
shop that stocks retro and odd
instruments. Down the street, Por
Qu No Taquera (porquenotacos.
com; $) serves the famous Bryans
bowl (meat or vegetables, rice, beans,
guacamole, and queso fresco).
CHERYL STRAYED
Author of Wild:
From Lost to
Found on the
Pacific Crest Trail
NAOMI POMEROY
Chef-owner
of Beast and
Expatriate
Headed to Portland?
Find our guide at
foursquare.com/
travandeisure.
COLIN MELOY
Lead singer of
the Decemberists
and author
of Wildwood
Chronicles
PORTLAND
Heart
Owned by Finnish pro
snowboarder Wie
Yi-Luoma, Heart has
Scandinavian interiors
and a Hikari siphon tabe
that vacuum-steams
grounds to bring out
favor. heartroasters.com.
Coava Coffee Roasters
At this ow-key caf, your
singe-origin cup may
come from Las Capucas,
Honduras, or Kienso,
Ethiopia, but its roasted
in-house by a vintage
Probat at the bamboo-
ined bar. coavacoffee.com.
Water Avenue Coffee
You find truy inventive
brews at this spot in
the Southeast Industria
District, where raw
beans from E Savador
are aged in Pinot Noir
barres before roasting.
wateravenue coffee.com.
Get your daiy jot
at these three
coffee roasters.
Three insiders share their
top paces in the city.
Caf Coo
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From eft: Inside
Back Book Guitars;
roasted rapini with egg
and back-oive sasa
at Davenport; biking in
Mount Tabor Park.
Lay of the Land photo for tabets: