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Bench Lathe 3 in 1 (Lathe - Sander - Grinder/Sharpener)
by steliart on May 4, 2010

Table of Contents
License: Attribution Non-commercial No Derivative Works (by-nc-nd) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Intro: Bench Lathe 3 in 1 (Lathe - Sander - Grinder/Sharpener) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 1: Materials & Hardware: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 2: The Lathe Bed: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 3: The Lathe's Motor: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 4: The Lathe's Headstock: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 5: The Lathe's Tailstock: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 6: Belt & Grinder Guards: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 7: Tool Rest: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 8: Faceplate Attachment: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 9: Sanding Disk & Sanding Table Attachment: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 10: Bench Grinder or Sharpening Station: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
step 11: An Alternative Solution: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

So here it's what I came up with. but it could easily be extended either with a bed extension or by simply build longer. But then my visitors started trying to perfect the design idea with many positive comments. I think that the 3D images I provide with the instructable are detailed enough to give you an accurate account of what is going on. plywood thickness is 18mm for me but in U.. I hope you enjoy and be insiped form the instructable. Has also the versatility to be used as a grinder/sharpening station and as a sanding station with its attachable disk sander and table. I search for different ideas.License: Attribution Non-commercial No Derivative Works (by-nc-nd) Intro: Bench Lathe 3 in 1 (Lathe . It was on popular demand that I ended up sketching a woodworking Bench Lathe. after someone asked me. and 2 pieces of 2X2 pine wood stock for the lathe bed (base). as I wonted the bench lathe to be completely made out wood. the 2X2 stock length can be determent from the length of the lathe you decide to build. how to build it and how to change its measurements. be solid and sturdy and with very good turning results.instructables. It should not be expensive. There are no exact measurements in the drawings firstly because I work in metric system and we all know how frustrating is to convert it to imperial (fractions do not much up. I will provide though the general measurements of this project. should be very safe. step 1: Materials & Hardware: The materials I used for this lathe are very basic: Mainly everything is made out of plywood always 18mm (3/4") thickness. There positive comments. so everyone can build it.Grinder/Sharpener) Introduction: When I submitted my instructable "The smallest workshop in the world" a lathe latter addition was presented as an add-on idea to the tool bench. is to find the right components that fit together to build the lathe's headstock turning mechanism. So I started a research on how a lathe should be. I was not ready to build the real thing as I have not the time at this moment. Hardware: 1 Bench grinder 2 Pulleys (3 step) 1 Belt 1 Double ended mandrel 2 Bearings 2 Stop collars 1 Drill chuck 1 Headstock spur drive center 1 Plate flange 1 On/off switch with box 2 Hinges 2 T-tracks 6 Flanged bolts Various size woodscrews Threaded inserts 2 Screw down threaded inserts http://www.Sander . is 19mm 3/4). I ended up designing a lathe that has also some add-ons like a faceplate to turn bowls. The trick as I see it. just to show that a lathe was possible also to be added on that tool bench.S. feedback and rating votes. for various parts of it and studying the mechanisms of other lathes in the market. but I decided to give a workable 3D design that is easy to follow and to be build. as many visitors to my instructable where asking me for it.. "Where is the lathe?" At first I did a quick sketch lathe idea using a power drill for motor.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ . except some parts that you could replace it with hardwood like the headstock. and secondary because you can build it to measure your own space and needs. encourage me to publish this "Bench Lathe 3 in 1" instructable. The lathe I design is big enough to turn an 80cm (31") leg on it.

it will keep it from walking when large stock is turning. I have tried them out and they work just fine. After you glue and screw (countersink) the two pieces together you can make that cut with the 45 degrees angle cut to its end (if you want) which serves for clamping purposes only. 2 5X5cm (2"X2") pine wood stock 120cm (47") in length is the lathe's body. In case you want the lathe to be smaller and have an extension attached to it when you need more length. The stock is flash with that cut of the base and they are 5cm (2") apart. Faceplate & Sanding Station Attachments step 2: The Lathe Bed: The lathe bed has an important function and it should give a solid/strong foundation to the moving parts of the lathe. http://www. 2 T-tracks sit in the center of each stock and there length goes up to the headstock chuck.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ . So according to the headstock turning mechanism you will use you should calculate its length before deciding the t-tracks length. If you can. You can also hold it down with couple of clamps as well as join the stocks between them with an iron plate from both sides.instructables.Bolts / washers / nuts / butterfly nuts / t-nuts 1 Threaded rod 1 Coupling nut 2 Acrylic guards 1 Steel wear plate Image Notes 1. is very possible. it will be best to bolt it down on your bench. Mainly the bed is made of 1sheet of plywood 50x120cm (20"X47") and on top of it glued at edge there's another sheet of plywood 25cm (10") sandwiched together. If you don't want to spend money on the t-tracks you can use aluminum curtain tracks. The ones I use in the drawing have a standard length of 90cm (3 foot) long. Make another bed with its 2X2 stock and t-tracks and attach it side by side to the existing lathe bed.

If you are not comfortable doing so please consult a licensed electrician. safety on/off switch with box http://www. Any switch type will do as far as you know how to wire it. everything depends on what hardware you can get you hands on. Basically what you do is to remove the grinders wire plug and attach it to the IN switch. A 3 step pulley will give you about the following RPM combinations. and as you can see are quite good for turning.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ . Motor Pulley small small medium large large medium large Headstock Pulley large medium large large medium small small Arppox. so you plan the turning mechanism according to what hardware and motor you will use. In this case for a motor I used a simple and inexpensive 1/4 HP bench grinder (even though I would recommend a 1/2 HP). Make sure you leave room for the hinges to workup and down and cut it 6mm (1/4") shorter from the edge for the guard to sit. what you see it's an alternative shaft solution using a long bolt without threats Image Notes 1. Finally I attached an in-line on/off switch with a protection cup and its box on the face of the bed for easy access. The second pulley will go on the headstock mandrel and the two of them will turn (towards you) with a belt. 3 step pulleys Image Notes 1. Image Notes 1.instructables. then you put another wire leaving the OUT switch and with a plug to its end to connect to the socket. I have removed the left site wheel and protection and mount a 3 step pulley on the motor axes. Normally here is the mandrel's shaft. The belts tension is achieved from the free pull of the motor.step 3: The Lathe's Motor: As I have said before. RPM 700 1000 1250 1725 2500 3000 4150 Mount the grinder with some bolts onto a piece of plywood and only after you will complete the headstock turning mechanism you will screw it down to the lathe's bed with couple of strong hinges.

drill holes to accommodate tightly the two bearings (bearings need to fit the bolt diameter). Now all these have to be found from your local suppliers or the internet and match together before you can build the headstock. and its thickness is bigger than the pulley's steps. The angle cut for the two edged pieces is from 22-25 degrees not important. The different color pieces you see in the pictures are only for visual clearance purposes only. Stop collar 2. The center width of that piece is 5cm (2") so when you look at it "stand alone" has a cross shape. and mount the drill chuck to its end. It can be made of thick pieces of hardwood (if you can get your hands on any) or it could be two pieces of plywood stack together which is also makes it very strong. Finally at the end of the threaded rod I made a simple hand-wheel to move the rod in and out thus holding the turning piece tight in its position. You will need two identical pieces of these.7") diameter.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ .instructables. a shaft and its locking collars. that prevents the turning work-piece to sleep deeper into the point. The center wood piece of the tailstock. then I will say that you could make the two edged pieces taller like two towers. Everything needs to be well glued and screwed together solidly. 16.5cm (6. and also acts as an outer locking stop. the second 3 step pulley which goes on the center but facing to the opposite direction from the motor's pulley. The thickness of the headstock is according to the mandrel and pulley size you will use. A threaded rod goes through them with its end grinded to a fine point which will help to hold the work-piece in place. In case you are wondering if you can avoid the mandrel. is either a piece of hardwood or two 3/4 plywood glued together and cut in a cross shape.5cm (8. Two screw-down threaded inserts are used here for better security.step 4: The Lathe's Headstock: The headstock is the piece that will hold the turning mechanism (hardware) and support the work-piece of the lathe. The height is not important as long as you leave space to the rod locking nut to be tightened with a wrench. These 3 major wood pieces can be also be made from plywood. The 3/4 plywood pieces overall dimensions are 15cm (6") wide. and a strong drill chuck at the end. one on each tower. Spur Drive Center Image Notes 1. To hold the mandrel down use bolts & washers screwed into threaded inserts step 5: The Lathe's Tailstock: Now for the tailstock you can only used plywood sandwiched together (I used a hardwood center piece). use a long bolt without threats to go through the 2 tower pieces (needs to fit the pulley opening). file the bolt flat to the areas that the locking collars will be tight down. http://www. Image Notes 1. These two pieces have also the same matching hole on the top. Then there's the middle piece which has the same length but shorter so that can give allot of clearance to the pulley and the belt. has a wooden dowel handle and is threaded on to the rod with the help of countersink nuts and epoxy. and have the same T-shape cut as the headstock. At the front end of the rod there's a Coupling nut screwed on. The hand-wheel is made out of two plywood sandwiched circles 12cm (4.5") high and deep enough to take the mandrel base. The mandrel is to be fastened down with 4 bolts and nuts into threaded inserts that will go into the wood. In the inside face of the two towers there's another plywood piece which is identical to the tower but without the angle area. There's a hole on the top that its center is in perfect alignment with the drill chuck's center. The rod is about 180cm (7") long.5") tall. I strongly recommend that you drill the tower's holes at the same time on your drill press. My design of the headstock starts with thick T shape hardwood which is 15cm (6" wide). 21. In the centre of the threaded rod and between the tailstock's towers there's locking stop nut that can be tight to the left side. so it should be very strong. The headstock mechanism consists from a double ended mandrel with its bearings. The center wood also provides enough area for the two hold down knobs to hold the tailstock from moving.

instructables. any sign maker or advertising gifts shop can make this for you very easily. The grinder guard is just a round open top box (a small bucket will do) which can be screwed somewhere on the grinder wheel metal protective guard. The dimensions for the one on the design are 45X17X27cm (17. http://www. Coupling nut with the threaded rod's pointed end coming out Image Notes 1. homemade gnobs made with t-nuts and plywood 2.Image Notes 1.7X10.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ . Stop locking nut step 6: Belt & Grinder Guards: Safety it's always a factor to consider so a couple of guards come in place. Screw down threaded inserts are in both outer sides Image Notes 1.7X6. The guard is made from acrylic. just a simple shape and screwed in the front with 2 butterfly bolt nuts on threaded inserts. First a belt guard which is very simple to find or make. This area must be protected because the grinding wheel will always spin when the lathe is in operation.6") these are not critical as long as it fits in front and sits at the back edge also have in mind that the back side is a plywood's height shorter.

it has a big curve cut which starts from the top of the base. to cut them a little bigger. and ends 3cm (1 1/4") from its top. It has a hole near the outer edge for the bolt and wing-nut and washer to secure it on the pivot arm. The tool rest is made in 6 parts and it can give you the flexibility you need to position it in the right position. and it sits flash with the bottom of its base.step 7: Tool Rest: A modular toll rest is the solution for this design here. better than the other way around. Toll Rest Parts: 1) Tool-Rest Base 2) Pivot Arm 3) Tool Support Base 4) Filler block 5) Tool Support Arm 6) Steel Wear Plate So all pieces of the tool rest are 18mm (3/4") plywood: 1) First we have the tool-rest base which is 10X30cm (2"X12") and has a groove in its center for free movement on the t-track bolts. with a countersink t-nut at the BOTTOM to hold the tool support base.5cm (2. cut at 45 degrees to give extra support to the tool support arm. Its outer site is cut in half circle to prevent scratching yourself. For this case here I have positioned the tool rest steel wear plate height to be 6mm (1/4") below the lathes center line. and its purpose is to prevent tear and wear as you turn. There's a hole at the front edge with a bolt and a wing-nut and washer to hold the pivot arm. If you want the tool support to be wider that's your personal choice.5X10cm (3X4"). Wing nuts and washers help to hold the tool-rest down in position. 5) The tool support arm is a critical piece. This tools rest was featured in shop-notes magazine and suits our purpose fine here (no reason re-inventing the wheel again). when you cut these pieces. http://www. There's a 30 degrees miter cut off the top to mount the steel wear plate. a countersink t-nut to secure it on the base. The piece is rounded at both ends and has a hole at its TOP outer end.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ . You could adjust this if you want by adding some thin layers of 3mm (1/8") hardwood between the tools rest base and the 2X2's. Please make sure to file round and sand smooth all edges to allow an easy slight movement of your turning chisels. Another hole is about 6. Glued and screwed for maximum strength to its base.5") in from the outer end. 2) Second piece is the pivot arm with dimension 7. 4) The filler block is just 18x18mm (3/4X3/4") hardwood. Its overall dimensions are 10x20cm (4X8"). 6) The steel wear plate is a 3mm (1/8") thick plate with four countersink screw holes. Note: It's better. You can replace this block with a metal angle if you want. As you make this base take the time and make also a few 3mm (1/8") thickness identical shims to use for height adjustment.5x2") rounded only at the outer edge while the inner edge remains straight.6x5cm (2.instructables. and trim them down to their final length as you go. 3) Third piece is the tool support base. Its dimensions 6.

has all around holes for mounting the work-piece to the faceplate and four holes for mounting the plate to the neck. I would not recommend trying doing one yourself unless you have access to the tools required and the knowledge. You can find one to your local hardware supplier. 2) The body neck is very simple you can cut 2 or 3 plywood circles 6cm (2 1/3") in diameter and glue them together and screw them on the plate flange from the back side of the flange.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ . Image Notes 1.instructables.step 8: Faceplate Attachment: The faceplate attachment is used for mounting thick stock for bowl turning. it needs to be perfectly centered and without any play. It's easy to make and has 3 parts: 1) Plate Flange 2) Body Neck 3) Mounting Plate 1) The plate flange is nothing more than a circular plate with an arbor for mounting the faceplate to the chuck. Glue and screw the plate to the neck and you are ready to turn your first bowl. 3) The mounting plate has diameter of 13cm (5") and it's made of plywood. Plate Flange http://www.

instructables. One top piece of plywood 25X25cm (10X10") with a miter track grooving (to accept a miter gauge or a featherboard) in its center serves as the sanding table's top. Miter track to accept a miter gauge or a featherboard http://www. The disk has minor changes from the faceplate. its body neck has a 7.58") inner walls form the body of the table. it is important that the grooving is parallel to the sanding disk. you know exactly the procedure on how to build the sanding disk because is exactly the same.step 9: Sanding Disk & Sanding Table Attachment: The sanding Disk: Now that you have built a faceplate. You need to keep the 4 mounting holes to glue and screw it with the neck. Also it will be nice if the top has a melamine sheet glued over it for easy dust off.5cm (3") diameter and the disk plate is bigger 20cm (8"). Image Notes 1. and it's ready to go. Attached under the base piece the 2X2 pinewood stock that will keep the table centered. Two 15x11cm (6x4 1/3") outer walls and two 15X9. The sanding table attachment: The sanding table is made out of 7 pieces of plywood and 1 piece of 2X2 pine stock.2cm (6X3. so use a square to position the table top before you screw it. A square 15X15cm (6X6") base piece with two knobs aligned with the t-track below to hold it tight on the lathe bed. Attach an abrasive sanding disk to it.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ .

580 RPM more than enough speed choices for lathe turning. and I believe it just might do the trick for me or you.Sander . has a strong shaft. time consuming. well a drill press has most of the necessary and matching hardware we need to build the lathe. and if ever I decide to build this lathe I will have to face a very big dilemma.Grinder/Sharpener I hope you enjoy the instructable and found it interesting.1650 . Since the pulleys have 5 steps they give the following speeds: 2650 . The other option I have is to import all the necessary hardware and motor from overseas.1220 . While the one side of the grinder is used for the pulley drive. a 3 in 1 Bench Lathe . and I will have to ask help from a professional mechanic to fit everything together. information and ideas are welcome Stelios L. So there you have it.850 . and it's not worth it. Aluminium Oxide 'White' Grinding Wheel step 11: An Alternative Solution: I don't know about you people. All comments. the other site it's free to be used either as a normal grinder with a grinding stone wheel or you can replace the stone wheel with an aluminium oxide 'white' grinding wheel and use it as a chisel sharpening station. Image Notes 1. so you have almost everything you need and they match together. That will be very-very costly.step 10: Bench Grinder or Sharpening Station: By using the bench grinder as the lathe's motor it has its advantages. If you decide to build it. but me here where I am. Stavrinides http://www. Do you remember those inexpensive Chinese drill presses that you can buy for about 60 dollars? Maybe if you can get your hands on a second hand drill press? That will be fantastic.A.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ . I will have a problem to find the tailstock hardware to put the lathe in motion. the two pulleys with the belt. It has a strong 400W motor (1/2HP). But there's a third solution which I thought about. it will be nice to post some picture and tell us your experience in building and turning with it. bearings and a chuck. suggestions... that also will be costly. so I might as well buy a new factory made lathe and save myself the trouble. You will be wondering what to do with the drill press. One is finding things that will not match exactly.instructables.

instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ Make your own Lathe from other peoples rubbish by bongodrummer My Workshop (slideshow) by Brandon121233 100% Homemade Lathe by catwood . Belt and 1st 5 step pulley 2.Cyprus Image Notes 1. Motor with 2nd 5 step pulley 3. Chuck.Nicosia . Shaft & Bearings Related Instructables The Smallest Workshop in the World by steliart Shop Tools (guide) by Instructables Guides Bench Saw Table for a Wood Lathe by Phil B A modern build of a medieval spring pole lathe by badger A tall work table with angled legs and simple joints by threesixesinarow http://www.

9:15 AM REPLY I am using it since last March so it's only about a year. steliart says: May 4. 4:08 PM REPLY I'm downloading Google sketchup now. The software I used it is the Google SketchUp Pro version 7. Besides doesn’t everyone go and buy woodworking plans for X? amount of money only to get 2D drawings which at the end need to be modified to your own dimension or measuring system? Even if I had build the lathe. I have used it only a few times for very basic things. dividers. Funny thing you have mention this Phil. So you see nothing is a by accident you have some credit for me being here today. 2010. but solidworks allows allot of integration and I believe is much more complex. and since then I have play allot with it. triangles. 11:09 AM REPLY Thank you very much. 2010. 2010. 9:51 AM REPLY This is an outstanding writeup. As for the skills well I am a professional graphic/web designer so these kind of software are a bit easier for me to learn. 2010. I did have a year of mechanical drawing with "T"-squares. kelseymh says: May 4. I think it would suite better a mechanical engineer designer. 2010. Unfortunately I had to dismantle the platform to use the materials on other things and I forgotten to even take a picture of it :-(. scales. I have viewed some of Google's tutorials for Sketch Up and they are very helpful. 7:21 AM REPLY Hi Phil nice to see you again. 10:58 AM REPLY Well Phil if you ever need drawing I'm here just ask for it Phil B says: May 4. This is way I presented this instructable the way http://www. You have obviously spent more time learning it and practicing with it. My problem is that I use it so infrequently I forget what I have seen and practiced. 7:07 AM REPLY It appears you have covered everything and is very well done. The drawings are extraordinary (I had no idea SketchUp could do this level of detail). What you say is very true. but I still have the original SketchUp design. the 3D drawings can show and explain much better what you need to know.. many times real photos due to the angle or background can be very misleading. 2010. and then I decided that I needed more. I especially appreciate your analysis of why this is more suitable for a design-drawing I'ble rather than a "here's what I did" stack of photos. 2010. 10:23 AM REPLY Thank you for the offer of assistance with Sketch Up. What program did you use to draw the images? Thank you. steliart says: May 4. but that was 45 years ago. please just drop me a line. on the other hand I need a more simple.. Thank you I am glad you liked it. steliart says: May 4. Your creations with it are much more skillful and much more complex.1 which I am sure you know about because I see that you are using it also. On the other hand a drawing because its focal of attention is directly onto the subject in hand is much more clearer and easy to understand. Phil B says: May 4. 10:40 AM REPLY Thank you for your comments. Is it similar? steliart says: May 6. 2010. and fast version of a CAD software as the woodworking models I design are not so complex as a cars engine for example is. Phil B says: May 4. 8:19 PM REPLY Ok both are 3D CAD software.instructables. I've used Solidworks before. It was my first design with SketchUp with some modifications off-course and I even ended up building that platform for my circular saw which is now mounted under my tool bench. 2010. I'm gonna check it out. Me. because it was your project "Get More from Your Circular Saw" which I found on Google and that brought me into the Instructables website. so I came up starting to build that multiple power tools bench and the tool cabinet. 2010. steliart says: May 4. 2010. kingalexl says: May 6. and compasses.Advertisements Comments 17 comments Add Comment Phil B says: May 4. 8:30 AM REPLY I was afraid you would say you are using Google Sketchup. If ever you need some help with it. as is the written documentation. It served me quide well for a while.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ .

instructables. 2010. i have been using google sketch up for quite some time as well. All comments. 10:53 AM REPLY It is.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/ May 4. perhaps just sitting in a place of pride in the workshop. exactly. it's a workable plan in 3D so that anyone can follow and build the lathe. kelseymh says: May 4. I hope. 2010. 2010. can you tell me what the pro version offers that the standard does not? (is it more than just the ability to export documents?) steliart says: May 4. 10:30 AM REPLY great job. one of the conventions here on Instructables is to show at least the actual completed project." However. 4:43 AM REPLY . rather than a photo cluttered with extra unnecessarily "information. currently just a design. 10:52 AM REPLY Yes. Also as I say in the end of the I'ble if anyone else builds it and send me photos I will also post them on the I'ble with a credit to his name. kelseymh says: May 4. steliart says: May 4. Thanks Stelios http://www. Everything is explained in the introduction. that you'll add one or two pictures of your version to this I'ble.I did. thatoneguydavid says: May 4. steliart says: Hi everyone. that if you have the opportunity to build this design for yourself. And there are many examples here where I wish the author would provide a clear drawing. Don't know what the difference is between the Free version and the Pro because I never had the Free version. 2010. I hope you will enjoy this instructable as you did with "The Smallest Workshop in the World ". This could be easily be a project that everyone who wants can participate. suggestions. 2010. 10:55 AM REPLY No it's not a theoretical project. 11:05 AM REPLY That's for sure. perhaps in use. 2010. but i have not purchased the "pro" version. information and ideas are welcome. Is this just a theoretical project. as the author writes in his introduction. I got the Pro from the start. I will post pictures in the I'ble if I built it. or have you built it? i see from your other wright up that you have made quite a little shop.