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Dhaulagiri (3

)

Partial timeline
 1981 – Yugoslav team reaches 7,950 m after putting up the first route on the true south face of
the mountain, on the right side, connecting with the southeast ridge. They climb in alpine style
but suffer four days of open bivouacs and six days without food before returning. Hironobu
Kamuro of Japan reaches the summit alone, via the normal route.
 1982, 13 December - Two members (Akio Koizumi and Wangchu Shelpa) of Japanese team led
by Prof. Jun Arima of the Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido University reach the summit. By the
world calendar, winter begins December 21, so this was not a winter but a very-late-autumn-
climb. However the climb was done under a winter climbing permit, which the Nepali government
issues for climbs beginning on or after December 1.
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 1984 – Three members of the Czechoslovakian expedition (J. Simon, K. Jakes, J. Stejskal)
climb the west face to the summit. J. Simon died during the descent.
 1985 – Polish expedition including Jerzy Kukuczka climbs the normal route in winter, reaching
the summit on January 21.
 1986 – A mostly Polish expedition puts up a second south face route, on the left side of the face
connecting with the southwest ridge route. They go above 7,500 m but do not reach the summit.
 1988 – Y. Moiseev and K. Valiev, in cooperation with a Slovak, Z. Demjan, succeed in climbing
the southwest buttress. This 3,000-metre ascent, with difficult technical climbing at 6,800–
7,300 m, was acknowledged as the year's best achievement at the UIAA Expedition
Commission Conference.
[citation needed]

 1990 – Dhaulagiri becomes the first mountain higher than 8,000 m to be climbed by a
Lithuanian. Dainius Makauskas disappears on the descent.
 1993 – Russian-British team puts up the direct north face route.
 1998 – French climber Chantal Mauduit dies in an avalanche. On May 1 the Greek climber
Nikolaos Papandreou is killed falling in a gorge. On October 2, the Greek Babis Tsoupras
reaches the summit but does not return. The bodies of the Greek climbers were not found.
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 1999 – On October 24, British climber Ginette Harrison dies in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri. Days
later, Slovenian Tomaz Humar climbs the south face solo but does not reach the summit. His
ascent ended at 7,300 m due to a 300 m band of rotten rock. Humar traverses to the dangerous
southeast ridge, re-enters the face briefly and exits c. 8000 m for a descent on the northeast
ridge. Dhaulagiri's south face remains unclimbed, remaining one of the greatest remaining
challenges in alpinism.