The Online Warhammer 40k Magazine

This is the first issue of The Battle Record! All of us here on the team hope that you enjoy and learn from this new magazine stuffed with all good hobby, gaming and tactic articles. This is issue is a massive... pages long and consists of...

Name of Staff Member Simon Thornton Tim Davis Rune Reinås

Job Founder, Writer, Editor Artist, Writer, Editor Writer, Editor

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Hobby Sector: Getting Started........................4 Codex: Daemons............................................6


Tim’s Tactics: Hugging Fish...........................7
TigerShark AX-1-0........................................9

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A Desk
The first thing that any serious hobbyist needs to buy (or acquire) is an area where you can paint, glue and convert. This usually takes physical form in a desk! Choosing a desk is not difficult so long as you have the space for it. Simply don’t buy anything expensive; it’s going to take a beating! Whether it’s from paint, glue, knife scratches or water spills your desk will inevitably get damaged eventually. This is why you must take the time to look for a cheap desk from Wal-Mart, Ikea or another huge retailer. If you do not have space for a full desk then it is worth considering one of the GW (Games Workshop) Paint Stations. It has a space for paintbrushes, water cups and a shelf for miniatures or paints. The downside of them is that they clutter way too fast!


Painting Supplies
After you have bought your desk and have created an environment that suits you, you should buy some painting and modelling supplies. Modelling is not so hard to cater for; all you need is some super glue, a hobby knife, cutting pad, hobby drill, plastic glue, clippers and some green stuff (we will cover GS in later issues). Purchasing painting supplies however cannot be rushed and you must find the tools that suit you so that your army is as well painted as you can make it. Most people find the Games Workshop tools fine to begin with and some even use their tools after a few years of experience. Paint Brushes This is the most useful tool that you will ever purchase and if you take good care of a great brush it will last a very long time and will be more enjoyable to use. A good brush will give you more control over where you apply the paint and how much you apply to where you

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want it. One simple thing to remember is too never wash your brush with hot or warm water! This will loosen the substance which holds the hairs onto the metal part and will result in the bristles coming off! Needless to say, we don’t want that. When looking to buy a brush you mustn't judge how good the brush is by how good the models are that are sold in the same shop. Often they do not pay as much attention to their brushes as they do to their models. The best paint brushes for miniatures are made by Windsor Newton they do however cost quite some money so please take care of it if you do buy one. If you cannot purchase one of these brushes and can only buy a miniature companies brush buy a Reaper Miniatures brush. They are (in short) the best. When purchasing a brush be prepared to spend a lot of time searching for the right one and make sure it is the best available in your price range.

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Paint Most people prefer to use citadel (GW) paints, this is mostly because they are the most available paints and are often referred to in “how to paint...” articles. When using these paints (or any other miniature) paints always water them down until they are at the consistency of milk. This will result in smooth paint jobs with no streaks or splodges. Remember also to shake each paint pot thoroughly before use; this will make sure that the paint does not separate. The other paint company that you might hear of is Vallejo. They are (to put it simply) just another brand of miniature paint. Some people say that they are of better quality, others disagree. Really all that you have to know is that they are different companies. Trying both is the only way that you can find out which you prefer.

-Si-

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April and May sees the long awaited release of Codex Daemons. First of all we must clarify that Daemons cannot be used in the same force as Chaos Space Marines. They cannot ally with chaos unless you are playing an apocalypse game. Overall the models are great! They are well sculpted and do look quite convincing, however many gamers are still not sure how this new codex will fit into the Warhammer 40k universe. A new codex is always exciting though! At present nobody knows much information about the codex so I will stop blabbering on and will show some pictures!

-Si-

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You’ve all seen the unmistakable Fish of fury tactic. Can really hurt when you’re on the receiving end of it, can’t it? Or when you use it. You deal a deadly blow into enemy lines, striking where they are weakest and presumably crumbling there battle plans. I’m here to help you improve this tactic; to make it harder, meaner, deadlier and any other words you can associate with death. Firstly we have our bog standard squad of Fire warriors. In my eyes they are pants, I field a mere six in my army but for this tactic to work, we need twelve. Or maybe eight; even numbers are better for working out half strength and objective snatching. Now if your going to have Fire warriors in your army the least you can do is equip them properly for all the horrors of the fore coming battle they’re about to fight. I equip mine with their standard issue Pulse rifle, nice strength, range and AP. Sure you can equip some with Carbines, true they have pinning but they are only assault 1, two shots are always better than one in my eyes.

So you’ve got your weapon, next comes your leader, the +1 attack and Leadership are totally worth the points, so take him for this tactic. Next comes his wargear; as he can select equipment from the armory I usually give him an EMP grenade. This little trick is often overlooked and people give their entire squads EMP grenades, one’s enough, if you’re that close to the enemy to be able to poke their tank then your Hammerheads/Broadsides are doing something drastically wrong. While we’re on the subject of grenades I usually give the rest of the squad Photon grenades, the no charging attack benefit really helps in a pickle. I don’t bother with the bonding knife, if you have the points it’s fine but the points can be spent elsewhere. This usually comes to 145pts, not bad for a full squad of twelve Fire warriors with grenades and leader. As for the Devilfish, whatever your standard setup tends to be is fine. I usually go for Burst cannon and Drones, Multi tracker, Decoy launchers and Targeting array, 100pts maybe? Two of these squads do it for me; they stick together and unload at same time. Now this is the good part, when you get there don’t just pile out your Fire warriors and shout For the Greater Good at the top of your lungs. Not going to work. Trust me. When you unload you Fire warriors, unload them on the side of your Devilfish that’s furthest away from

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the enemy and hug it, by “hug it” I mean get as close to the fish as possible. I don’t care if it smells just do it. By doing this you’re giving yourself some major advantages. You’ll receive a 4+ cover save from being behind the vehicle (if you don’t believe me check your rule book Pg 25 in the table, under 4+, it says Wrecks/Vehicles.) I’ve used this at tournaments and never had any arguments about it, if you disagree, then it’s your loss. By hugging your fish your almost immune to assaults, the enemy have to come all the way around your fish to get you, past the wings or engine without coming within an inch of the vehicle. Hell if your hugging it enough they won’t be able to assault you without assaulting the vehicle at the same time. Have two of these positions next to each other and you have your own little fortification; you can shoot out, you have cover from enemy shooting and you are safe from assault.

-Tim-

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As I am still somewhat new to the world of 40K, I wanted to share my first meeting with a Forge World resin kit with you. I have over the last year or so been slowly building my Tau army, and have over that period had the opportunity to assemble and paint almost all of Games Workshops Tau models, both plastic and metal. In addition I have been doing a bit of conversion, mainly on my XV-8 Crisis Battlesuits, and by making my own Human Axillaries for the Tau army. All the while I have been drooling over the fantastic resin models over at the Forge World site. The Tau especially seem to have a rather good selection of kits, including the resin Broadsides, the Barracuda air superiority fighter, the TigerShark fighter-bomber and of course the immense Manta super heavy drop ship. I decided that as a prize I would order some models as a reward for myself when I had finished building and painting 1500 points of my Tau army, and a few months back I finally reached that point. I started pondering what I would order, and seeing as

I had participated in a few apocalypse games recently, I decided on getting a few fliers. A couple of weeks later I received my kits, including a TigerShark AX-1-0, and I thought I could give you guys a little peek into what is in the bag you get from Forge World and a little of the process of building it. About the TigerShark A-X-10 The TigerShark are described in the Forge Word book “Imperial Armor 3: The Taros Campaign”, as a Tau aircraft that fits the fighter-bomber role. The TigerShark is described as being faster and more maneuverable than it's Imperial counterparts (mainly the Marauder bomber), but lacking the larger bomb payload the Imperial aircraft has. The model I'm going to review and assemble here is the A-X-1-0 variant, armed with twin linked heavy railguns instead of the lighter ion cannons, and drone rack of the standard TigerShark.

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Going over your kit After receiving your kit I would recommend looking it over, making sure all the parts are included, and that none of them have obvious warping or are miscast in any way. If parts are missing or damaged you should use this opportunity to contact Forge World for replacements before doing anything else. I would recommend putting the parts out on a table and going over the part-list that should be included as you might be tempted to start working on the kit right away, and might miss any damaged or missing parts.

Then the parts were washed with lukewarm water and dish washing liquid using a toothbrush. In fact I left them in the water overnight, as I had heard rumors that the "release-oils" that it Forge Word uses in their molds can be hard to get of the models. Even after doing this I still did not feel secure that all the parts were totally clean, so I did another round of washing to make sure. I know this might sound a bit excessive, but having paint flakes fall off your finished model after spending hour upon hour on it, did not appeal to me.

Cleaning and getting the model ready for assembly I used the following tools for the cleaning process:
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So this is the list of parts that comes with the model:
1: Fuselage 2: Railgun halves (x4) 3: Wing Tips (x2) 4: Drone Domes (x2) 5: Drone Base (x2) 6: Burst Cannon (x2) 7: Small Engine Exhaust (x2) 8: Starboard Tail Fin (from the picture provided this seems to be the other large engine exhaust mount, so this listing seems to be an error, and from pictures provided on the Forge World website the model does not seem to have any tail fins at all.) 9: Large Engine Exhaust Mount 10: Large Engine Exhaust (x2) 11:Rear Undercarriage Doors (x2) 12: Front Undercarriage Doors (x2) 13: Rear Undercarriage Legs (x2) 14: Front Undercarriage Legs (x2) 15: Sensor Vanes (x2) 16: Seeker Missile Bay 17: Seeker Missile Tips (x2) - (two sprues containing 3 tips each) 18: Markerlight Turret Mount 19: Markerlight Turret 20: Markerlight Turret Peg 21: Networked Markerlight 22: Cockpit 23: Cockpit Canopy 24: Cockpit Hatch 25: Crew (x2 Air Caste Pilots) 26: Disruption Pods

Modeling Knife (make sure to use a new and sharp blade) Cutting pad Fine grade sanding paper Files (I used the GW ones, but I guess any fine file will do) Razor saw All parts were then cleaned up, sanded (where necessary) and washed. Some of them had quite big lumps of resin and other flash that that to be removed. I used a razor-saw for the big parts, hobby knife, files and sanding paper were used to create a smooth finish after removing excess resin, This part of the process is not especially hard, but requires patience and good tools.

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Assembly The model were then partly assembled, using Super Glue, and Greenstuff. I believe that with a resin kit like this you have to be aware that parts may not fit completely, and that you may have to do a bit of filing and greenstuffing to make fit parts, or fill cracks. For this I used GW greenstuff, and a sculpting tool, It is especially important to keep your tool moist when working, or else the greenstuff will stick to the tool, making it impossible to get a smooth finish. It can also help to let the greenstuff cure for up to half an hour, making it harder and less sticky before using the sculpting tool to smooth it down. After the greenstuff has set completely you can use fine grade sanding paper to remove any residue or rough edges before priming the model. As mentioned earlier you should also be aware that parts can be miscast or warped, and these are not easily repaired by your average modeler. The best way to solve this problem would be to email Forge World, or better yet phone them up and describe the problem, and get a replacement piece. From what I have read FW is very customer friendly and hopefully they will help you replace the warped piece quickly.

Here is a picture of the model so far, as you can see I have assembled parts of the model, still I'll try to give a walk trough of the parts and assembly:

1: is the Wing Tips, these were easy to fit, but needed a quite bit of filing and greenstuffing to fill in the gaps. 2: The drone-controlled burst cannons, each come in tree parts (4, 5 and 6 on the above list), and went in their pods easily after a bit of cleaning. I have not glued them in, and they can still be turned around or removed. 3: The Small Engine Exhaust, both parts required quite a bit of sawing, filing and sanding, and still left gaps, but that was nothing that could not be fixed with greenstuff and a little patience. 4: The Large Engine Exhausts inside their Mounts (so each exhaust consists of two parts (9 and 10 on the list above). These required quite a bit of work as well.

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5: The Cockpit, consisting of the main part (with seating and controls for the two pilots), two air-caste crew, and the hatch that is in two parts as well (Canopy and Hatch). The whole cockpit can be removed for when the pilots launch their escape pod. 6: The Railguns - both are quite a bit bigger than a Hammerhead railgun, and comes in two parts (just like the Hammerhead gun). Very easy assembly. 7:The Markerlight Turret Mount, with the turret and the Networked Markerlight glued in, no problems here. Consists of 4 parts (18, 19, 20 and 21). 8: Rear Undercarriage Legs and Doors, a bit cleaning up and removing of flash, but no major work required 9: Front Undercarriage Legs and Doors, same as their rear counterparts 10: Sensor Vanes, not much to do here (removed a little residue resin, and sanded). 11: The Seeker Missile Bay with the 6 Seeker Tips inserted, the tips came on sprues containing 3, and needed a bit of work before I fitted them, they were marked 1,2, and 3 and the bay had corresponding numbers to ease the assembly. Mine did not perfectly fit, so I had to use a bit of greenstuff and some work to make them look right, but nothing that required any real work.

Here are some more pictures, to show the size of the AX-1-0 in relation to other Tau models:

Here the fuselage is showed next to a Vespid.

The TigerShark “starship grade” railgun in comparison to a Hammerhead railgun.

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The next step will be to start priming the model, and decide on a paint scheme, I will also start working on a base as soon as I get the parts I plan to use (no base is included with the kit). Hope this may be of help to members who think about purchasing this model from Forge World.

-Rune-

Here you see a close up of the Cockpit/Escape Pod with the two Air Caste Pilots inside, you can also see a unassembled Drone Burst Cannon (in 3 parts).

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