Malaysian Batik
Voyagers
Fong Wai Ling speaks to some of Malaysia’s prominent designers about the waves they are
making on the global fashion scene using batik. And who's that voyager who took our batik
into space?
Dato’ Tom Abang Saufi
A strong identity wins ardent fans in London
and Europe
It was familiarity that prompted Sarawakian Dato’ Tom
Abang Saufi (the Datoship was appropriately con-
ferred on her in the past year by the state of Pahang)
to set up her boutique in London. Aside from her days
as a student in the London School of Fashion, many
of Dato’ Tom’s family reside in London – including her
daughter – which makes London the perfect site for
her first retail store out of Malaysia.
Nestled in the high fashion district of Connaught
Village, Dato’ Tom’s boutique sits on the same street
as Armani, Gucci, Jimmy Choo, Chanel and other lux-
ury brand names on Connaught Street, London.
Although it’s been only eight months since the
business started, there’s already a steady fan base of
customers flocking to her boutique. Dato’ Tom
believes that it is her involvement with Asia House, a
non-profit organization that promotes Asian culture
and heritage in London, that helps promote her in the
UK market.
Setting up her boutique has been the biggest chal-
lenge for her – especially as she prefers the creative
52 BATIK GUILD MAGAZINE
side instead of the management side of the business.
Dato’ Tom has had to defy impediments by learning
the ropes from scratch. She credits much of her suc-
cess to her friends and family who have been a
tremendous help along the way. Even shoe maestro,
Datuk Jimmy Choo, proposed the location for the
store.
"There were just so many things to learn and it’s
tough. For example, hidden costs that can easily be
overlooked, the high rent – and marketing batik to an
international market!"
The batik that she sells in London is mainly resort
wear – clothes that exude bright and warm colours,
light fabrics and bold patterns. They quickly garnered
the attention of Londoners, especially in the summer
months. Tourists from the Middle East are also fast
spreading her name and European buyers have
broached the idea of tapping further into the
European market by bringing her batik designs into
department stores or distributing it through other
channels. In fact, the idea of being represented by
different agents thrills Dato’ Tom even more as she
feels her brand is able to reach more people in this
manner instead of just having a stand alone boutique.
"Batik is an Asian heritage. Even more, it provides
"I once had a fashion buyer
from Gucci stop by the
boutique who commented
that batik designs are clever
and adaptable in the sense
that it is wear-friendly and
that, to me, is valid
testimony that batik has a
lot of potential to flourish in
the international market," –
Dato’ Tom Abang Saufi
a profound identity for us Malaysians. Thus, using
batik in my designs is only natural as this is my iden-
tity," says Dato' Tom when asked why batik remains
her favourite fabric. The designer prefers using batik
because of the control she is able to exude over it,
calling batik, "an amazing medium where art and
craft comes together."
"I once had a fashion buyer from Gucci stop by
the boutique who commented that batik designs are
clever and adaptable in the sense that it is wear-
friendly and that, to me, is valid testimony that batik
has a lot of potential to flourish in the international
market," Dato’ Tom shared.
"The future of batik is going to be exciting. There
are so many opportunities for us if local batik makers
first learn to improvise on the production of batik.
People around the world are now championing the
environment. If we can produce batik using eco-
friendly methods, we will definitely garner the world’s
attention," said Dato’ Tom, speaking with enthusiasm
about the future of batik.
Speaking to Dato' Tom in mid-November, she said:
"My shop has been open nearly a year now. Spring
and Summer were great but winter was difficult and
does not justify the monthly upkeep. It's been a
learning curve." Nevertheless, the exposure has been
good for her brand. "There are shops outside London
willing to take my label and we are working on stores
like Selfridges taking my products as well. Once I
establish other distribution channels I will probably
close the stand alone shop. It's way too expensive
and I am here in Malaysia a lot of the time. But there
are people in Miami and the Middle East interested
in it. I have been invited to do a batik show in Palm
Beach and Miami in January 2008 by a fashion
socialite who saw my products in London as well."
As Dato’ Tom shares her experience on being a
designer, she advises that young batik designers
should first discover their identity and harness it
locally before venturing abroad. "Opportunities
abound when you are good at something. Discover
your own mode first and then, when you are present-
ing your work internationally, you will know how
important your identity can be because people identi-
fy you through your designs no matter how varied
they are."

BATIK GUILD MAGAZINE 53

 Dato’ Bernard Chandran
Concentration, Consistency and Cooperation
will win the day

There has been no stopping designer Dato’ Bernard

Chandran ever since he established his boutique in
Knightsbridge, London, back in January 2004. As we
corresponded via e-mail, Dato’ Bernard Chandran was
showcasing his label at London Fashion Week 2007.
London is a pit stop for this renowned fashion
designer who is already a household name in our
country. "For two years in London, we researched and
studied the market, as we see London as a truly cos-
mopolitan city and very much a foundation of fash-
ion. It is edgy and there is a great freedom of artistic
expression. Just being there has given me great moti-
vation and a fresh perspective on creativity," Dato’
Bernard said when asked why he chose London.
London did well by him – his Autumn/Winter
2005-2006 ready-to-wear collection was a huge suc-
cess and his designs spearheaded the London fashion
scene that season. Since then, there has been no
turning back.
Dato’ Bernard’s latest collection to grace the
London runway, Petang Raya 07/08, has received
very positive feedback. With this collection, Dato’
Bernard transposes batik with an edgy and modern
twist. "I gave my own interpretation to batik, by mak-
ing use of the batik cloth and changing the texture,
by pleating it. The result – an urban feel that is both
smart and chic."
"For batik to shine in the international scene, local
designers have to first embrace change in the way we
perceive batik," explains Dato’ Bernard.
He believes batik has a lot of potential and may
even one day be one of the main exports of Malaysia
in the same way that textiles and fashion are to coun-
tries like Italy, Paris and London.
"Batik will always have our country’s acceptance.
But we have got to embrace change in the way we
perceive it. In order for the world to utilise our batik,
it must first be relevant to current fashion trends. We
must get away from just perceiving it as a traditional
material or craft. The designs, the colour palette
must match the latest season. And it should not just
be confined to fish, nature and flower motifs. While
those are very unique, they may not be what the
world wants," he explains.

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"We should Concentrate in
our areas of work and see
how we can improve every
time and outdo ourselves
each season; monitor the
Consistency in the quality,
design, end products and
supply; and Cooperate
amongst each other in the
industry to elevate the local
batik industry to the next
level." – Dato’ Bernard
Chandran

Dato’ Bernard also believes that the local batik

industry has to be mobilised to be more forward look-
ing and be in line with the world’s fashion capitals.
For the batik industry to bring itself forward, Dato’
Bernard cites the 3Cs – Concentration, Consistency
and Cooperation.
"We should Concentrate in our areas of work and
see how we can improve every time and outdo our-
selves each season; monitor the Consistency in the
quality, design, end products and supply; and
Cooperate amongst each other in the industry to ele-
vate the local batik industry to the next level."
Bernard has great respect for the late Datin Paduka
Seri Endon and admires the work that she has done
for the local batik industry.
"What the late Datin Seri Endon did was excellent.
For example, she invited fashion experts from Italy,
London and Paris to fuse in the quality and bench-
mark that will go towards making world-class quality
batik. The Piala Seri Endon will also be able to
encourage batik designers to perceive batik as more
than just a cottage industry. It brings out the bigger
potential of batik."
Dato’ Bernard Chandran believes in passion and
encourages all young batik designers to believe in
their work and most importantly, be passionate about
it. "Be genuine about it and eventually it will become
wealth."

BATIK GUILD MAGAZINE 55

 MELVIN LAM
Dress fit for a (Beauty) Queen?
Pretty Deborah Priya Henry, the newly-crowned Miss
Malaysia/World 2007 will be representing the country
in the Miss World competition set to take place in
Sanya, China. And in her suitcase will be an exclu-
sively designed dress for her to wear to the grand
finals.
From the design house of Melvin Lam Haute
Couture comes this stunning dress made from batik
sarongs. More than just a dress, the cotton-based
batik sarong dress with gathers and gold and colour-
ful beads represents Malaysia’s identity. Designed by
Melvin Lam himself, the dress will also compete in
the "Best Designer Award" category, a new category in
this year’s competition.
With subtle colours, tropical floral motifs and silk
gold trimmings, the halter-neck dress is designed
56 BATIK GUILD MAGAZINE
exclusively for the Miss Malaysia/World 2007.
"It was not hard at all because Deborah has every
designer’s dream figure and height. I had her in mind
when I designed it and the gown was meant to accen-
tuate her figure," designer Lam is reported as saying
in the Star, 27 September 2007.
"It cost less than RM1,000 to make the gown and I
only used 15 pieces of batik sarongs to produce it,"
Lam explains, adding that it took him two weeks to
make.
"It is gorgeous and I feel confident wearing it to
represent our country," quipped 21-year-old Deborah.
She will be leaving for Sanya on 2 November to par-
ticipate in a month-long series of activities before the
grand finals on 1 December.
Batik Guild magazine wishes her the best of luck
as she represents the nation – wearing batik sarong
fabrics – in the Miss World competition.
BATIK GUILD MAGAZINE 57
 BATIK IN SPACE!
Global? Hah! Malaysian Batik has been to Outer Space this year!

Batik and astronauts. The first thought that came to mind was
how they belonged on opposite ends of a spectrum of time.
Batik is an age-old traditional craft that has been practiced
since time immemorial. Space travel signifies the new, modern
age. Where do they meet? I wondered.
It may seem strange to some that the National Space
Agency would run a batik art competition, the Pertandingan
Batik ANGKASA. But yes, in the year before the first
Malaysian went to space, that is what they did.
"We wanted to promote a fusion of the Arts and Sciences,
to get people in the Arts stream to think about the Sciences,"
explained Professor Datuk Dr. Mazlan Othman, Director-
General of the National Space Agency. "For this competition,
participants were encouraged to do research on space as, apart
from submitting a one metre by one metre piece of batik art,
they also had to write an essay on their work and why they
chose their subject matter."
While it won’t be running a batik competition again any
time soon, ANGKASA has a long-term programme to promote
space science to school children, specific target groups and
the general public through the Planetarium. They wanted to
Professor Datuk Dr. Mazlan Othman, Director-
generate wider interest about space. "We have a fellowship for General of the National Space Agency, said Dr.
artists to explore Space as artistic subject matter," says Sheikh Muszaphar asked for a batik shirt
Professor Mazlan. to wear in space!
ANGKASA received 106 entries for this competition. The
judges in the first round scrutinised the entries for batik technique and eliminated all but 40 of the pieces. The final
40 are presented in a little booklet, alongside the names and photos of the artists that produced them. The subject
matter ranged from the Sun and Moon to the solar system, the Andromeda galaxy, meteors and black holes, nebula,
comets, the planets, stars and more. From the work submitted it is indeed clear that research had to be done.
And when our Angkasawan, Dr Sheikh Muszaphar, asked for a batik shirt to wear in space, ANGKASA elicited the
help of the National Art Gallery to choose four pieces of the artwork that was submitted and to get it tailored into
two shirts for him. The result is the photo you see of our handsome astronaut here.
"I believe strongly that as a Space Agency we must go beyond our own agenda to look at other national agendas,"
explained Professor Mazlan. "If we are able to promote other national agendas, then we should do it. The Americans
have done it by wearing Hawaiian shirts in space. The Japanese have eaten ramen noodles up there. Batik is about
national character. Sheikh was very supportive of this and actually asked to wear that batik shirt in space."

Clockwise from top left: Antara Malam dan Siang by Nadiah bt Ngah; Misteri Cakerawala by Zalipah Ismail; Aura
Galaksi by Norazran bin Ibrahim; Bulan, Bumi, Zuhal, Bintang by Nor Rahila bt Abd. Rani Nuraini bt Sulaiman.

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A photo that was probably snapped by
a fellow cosmonaut, provided with the
courtesy of Dr. Sheikh himself.

A photo of Sheikh snapped from ASTRO footage.

The station had a 24-hour channel dedicated to
Malaysia's first man in space.

BATIK GUILD MAGAZINE 59

 NAZLEEN NOOR
In 2006, Nazleen Noor attended the
pret a porter show at Paris Fashion
Week as an observer with a view to par-
ticipate in it in 2008. "I met the mar-
keting people and got details to prepare
for the show in September 2008 – the
Spring/Summer show." So, what will her
collection look like? We don’t know yet,
but she gave us some insight into how
she is inspired recently.
"My work is usually nature-inspired. I
use stylized leaves, flowers. I like to
travel to get new ideas. When I travel, I
go to the shopping strips to look for new
styles and ideas. I attend Fashion Week
in the main cities in this region – such
as Bangkok Fashion Week. I look for
new fabrics. I apply what I see with my
own mark. If, for example, I see some-
thing I like by Vivienne Westwood, I will
take it and develop it further. Creativity
comes all the time. I keep trying out
new things and experimenting. While
the silhouette might be recognizable as
Nazleen’s work, I will keep changing the
motifs as I develop them."

SHARIFAH MAHERAN
Sharifah, trading under the Barakaff name, is consid-
ered the matriarch of Malaysian batik. Sharifah says that
she usually goes to the library or bookshops in search of
inspiration. She researches what is available in terms of
textiles, colour and so on. In June this year, she, along
with some six Kelantanese batik designers, traveled with
Tourism Malaysia to Covent Garden for Malaysia Week.
What did she learn?
"This was my second trip so I had a better idea about
what to bring with me. It was summer in London so the
kurtas, sundresses and pareos sold well this time. The
main fabric was cotton voile – which seems to be quite
popular. Last time I didn’t really know what to bring."

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