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Ann Taylor

Ann Taylor Loft


Ann Taylor Factory Stores


Construction Guidelines


CUT & SEW KNITS


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 2 November 2009



TABLE of CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 5
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: ............................................................................................................................................... 5
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS CUT & SEW KNITS: ............................................................................................................................. 5
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES - CUT & SEW KNITS: ......................................................................................................... 6
Join Seams .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 6
Shoulder Seam ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 6
Armhole ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6
Edge Seams: ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 6
EDGE FINISHES: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 7
Binding Full Clean Finish ....................................................................................................................................................................... 7
Binding Half Clean Finish ...................................................................................................................................................................... 7
Elastic Encased in Trim ........................................................................................................................................................................... 7
Clean Finish Edge w/ Lining Full Double Bendback ............................................................................................................................ 7
Piped Edge Binding Facing Single Bendback .................................................................................................................................. 7
DARTS: ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 8
NECK FINISHES: ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 9
Neck Finished w/ Binding ........................................................................................................................................................................ 9
Set-In Neck Trim Left Back Join Seam ................................................................................................................................................. 9
Set-In Neck Trim Center Back Join Seam ............................................................................................................................................. 9
Set-In Trim / Border with Facing ............................................................................................................................................................ 10
V Neck with Set-In Trim Mitered Center Front ............................................................................................................................... 10
V Neck with Set-In Trim Stitch-Tack at Center Front ...................................................................................................................... 10
Low V Neck Trim Overlapped at Center Front ................................................................................................................................ 11
High V Neck Trim Overlapped at Center Front ............................................................................................................................... 11
V Neck with Set-In Trim & Elasticized Center Front .......................................................................................................................... 11
Keyhole at CF w/ Drawstring through Casing Keyhole at CF w/ Binding Trim & Tie ...................................................................... 12
Lace Neck Trim Appliqud to Shell........................................................................................................................................................ 12
Notch Collar with Facing ....................................................................................................................................................................... 13
Notch Collar with Partial Placket & Facing ............................................................................................................................................. 13
COLLAR OPTIONS: .................................................................................................................................................................................. 14
2-Piece Collar ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 14
Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand ....................................................................................................................................................................... 14
Stand Collar ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 15
Collar w/ Banana Stand ......................................................................................................................................................................... 15
FRONT PLACKET CLOSURES: ................................................................................................................................................................. 16
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 3 November 2009
KEYHOLE CLOSURES: ............................................................................................................................................................................. 18
Keyhole Lined to Edge Keyhole w/ Continuous Lapped Placket ........................................................................................................ 18
Keyhole Clean Finish w/ Facing ............................................................................................................................................................. 18
FACING OPTIONS: ................................................................................................................................................................................... 19
Attached Facings ................................................................................................................................................................................... 19
Bendback Facings ................................................................................................................................................................................. 20
Combination Facing Set-In Trim .................................................................................................................................................. 21
HEM FINISH OPTIONS: ............................................................................................................................................................................ 22
SLIT OPTIONS .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 23
Clean Finish at Seam; Blindstitched ...................................................................................................................................................... 23
Full Bendback w/Topstitch .................................................................................................................................................................... 23
Bendback & Topstitched ....................................................................................................................................................................... 23
Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner - Blindstitched ............................................................................................................................. 24
Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner - Topstitched ............................................................................................................................... 24
Attached Facing w/ Overedge Finish - Blindstitched ............................................................................................................................. 25
Attached Facing with Overedge Finish - Topstitched ............................................................................................................................ 25
WELT & BESOM POCKETS ...................................................................................................................................................................... 26
Angled Welt Pocket Horizontal Welt Pocket ............................................................................................................................... 26
Angled Besom Pocket Horizontal Besom Pocket ........................................................................................................................ 26
VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET: ................................................................................................................................. 27
WELT & BESOM POCKETS W/ FLAP:...................................................................................................................................................... 28
PATCH POCKETS: .................................................................................................................................................................................... 28
VERTICAL ONSEAM POCKET: ............................................................................................................................................................. 29
PLEATS: .................................................................................................................................................................................................... 30
Inverted Pleat ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 30
Box Pleat ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 30
Inverted Pleat / Box Pleat Tacked for Shipping: .................................................................................................................................... 30
Pintuck .................................................................................................................................................................................................. 30
Knife / Single Side Pleat ........................................................................................................................................................................ 30
TOPSTITCH OPTIONS - CUT & SEW KNITS: ............................................................................................................................................ 31
Single Chainstitch 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch ............................................................................................................................... 31
Split Needle w/ 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch ....................................................................................................................................... 31
Top & Bottom Coverstitch Options ....................................................................................................................................................... 31
DRAWSTRING CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS: ............................................................................................................................................ 32
ZIPPER CLOSURES CLOSED BOTTOM: ............................................................................................................................................... 34
FLY CLOSURES: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 35
Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband:............................................................................................................................ 35
Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband ....................................................................................................................... 35
Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Clean Finish at bottom...................................................................................................... 36
ZIPPER CLOSURES SEPARATING ZIPPER: ........................................................................................................................................... 37
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 4 November 2009
ZIPPER TERMS: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 38
ZIPPER WITH BINDING EDGE FINISH: .................................................................................................................................................... 39
Front Closure Button Setting: ................................................................................................................................................................ 39
CLOSURES: .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 40
Buttonholes: .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 40
Loop & Frog Closures ............................................................................................................................................................................ 41
Thread Eyelet ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 41
Hook & Loop Eye Setting inside top edge .................................................................................................................................... 42
Hook & Loop Eye Setting - inside/top of zipper ............................................................................................................................... 42
Hook & Bar; Hook & Loop Tape: ........................................................................................................................................................... 42
DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING ............................................................................................................................................. 43
BELT LOOPS: ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 44
SPECIAL CONSTRUCTIONS: .................................................................................................................................................................... 45
Adjustable Strap ................................................................................................................................................................................ 45
Strap Continuous from Armhole ............................................................................................................................................................ 45
Camisole / Strapless w/ Bra Shelf ......................................................................................................................................................... 46
DECORATIVE STITCHES: ......................................................................................................................................................................... 47
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 5 November 2009
CUT & SEW KNITS
INTRODUCTION:
The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology
and components.
These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor,
Ann Taylor Loft and Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products.
The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.

NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.

CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:

SHADES:
All shades are to be individually labeled.

PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal):
Plaid is to match around garment.
Horizontal stripes are to match around garment (unless confirmed otherwise prior to Fit Approval. Confirmation must be documented in Spec Pkg.)
Sleeve is to match front at pitch point.
Top Collar Center Back to match body on vertical pattern.
Front Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package).
Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement.
One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be A/B marker.
Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package.
NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.
Circular Knits: Position fabric crease lines on back body or back sleeve.

STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS CUT & SEW KNITS:
Interfacing: Quality and weight must be compatible with fabric.
Interfacings are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance.
Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: 10-12 (unless special thread & SPI required per Spec Pkg.)


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 6 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES - CUT & SEW KNITS:

Join Seams Shoulder Seam
A-10 4-Thread Overedge
Stitch Under Side
Stitch Top Side
Press to One Side
Edge
Seam
Seam
Seam Details
3/16
seam allowance

4-Thread
Overedge

Press toward
back

See Spec pkg.
for Panel seam
requirement

K1-1 Shoulder Seam
Stay Tape at Shoulder
* Back Shoulder
unless otherwise specified

Seam Details
3/16 to
seam allowance

4-Thread
Overedge

Press toward
back


Armhole Edge Seams:


K1-2 Armhole Seam Allowance - Press to Sleeve
Insideof Front
Inside of Sleeve
Shoulder Seam-
PresstowardBack
Insideof Back
Press toward
sleeveall around.
SideSeam-
PresstowardBack

Seam Details

3/16
seam allowance

4-Thread
Overedge

Press toward
sleeve unless
noted in Spec
Pkg.

See Spec pkg.
for Panel seam
requirement

Lockstitch
Raw Edge
A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)
Lockstitch



Raw Edge Finished w/ Overedge
Topside Underside
ST-504 3-Thread Overedge
Seam Details
seam allowance
Lockstitch
Press toward back

Seams:
Collar Edge
Front Edge
Cuff Edge
Pocket Seams


Use to finish raw edge.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 7 November 2009
EDGE FINISHES:
Binding Full Clean Finish; set w/ Chainstitch
Folded Edge
A6-1 Full Clean Finish w/Edgestitch

Binding Half Clean Finish set w/ Coverstitch
Raw Edge
Folded
Edge
A6-2 Half Clean Finish
w/Edgestitch

Elastic Encased in Trim
set w/ Chainstitch or Coverstitch
K1-8 Set-In Trim w/ Elastic Encased
Elastic encased in Trim
* See Spec Pkg for Trim Type.

Clean Finish Edge w/ Lining Full Double Bendback
A9-1 Clean Finish Edge w/ Lining
Outside of
Garment
Inside of
Garment
Backstitch
Lining
Edge finished
with Lining
A9-2 Full Double Bendback Edge Finish
Outside of
Garment
Inside of
Garment
Double
Bendback
Piped Edge Binding Facing Single Bendback
A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler
Outside of
Garment
Inside of
Garment
Backstitch
Edge finished w/
Facing OR Lining
Piping w/ or w/o Filler
Note:
No Backstitch if
edgeis Topstitched
A9-4 Binding Facing
Outside
View
Inside
Finished
View
Set Binding
w/ Topstitch
A9-5 Single Bendback Edge Finish
Outside of
Garment
Inside of
Garment
Single
Bendback
Overedge
Finish

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 8 November 2009
DARTS:

A2-1b Blouse Waist Dart -
Single Point (Front / Back)
Press Dart
toward
Center Frt

A2-2b Dress / Blouse Waist Dart -
Double Points (Front / Back)
Press Dart
toward
Center Frt
A2-0d Dart Seam w/ Chainstitch
Double Point
1/2" Tail
Chainstitch
1/2" Tail
A2-1c Bodice Waist Dart -
Single Point (Front / Back)
Press Dart
toward
Center Frt


A2-3b Bodice Bust Dart -
from Side / Panel seam
Press Dart
toward
Hem

A2-3c Bodice Bust Dart -
from Empire Seam
Press Dart
toward
Center Frt

A2-4 French Dart
Press Dart
toward
Hem


Back Tack
1/2" Tail
A2-0a Dart Seam w/ Lockstitch
Single Point
*Follow Dart Guide
on pattern



Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 9 November 2009
NECK FINISHES:

Neck Finished w/ Binding
K3-1a Neck Finished w/ Binding
* Binding Set w/ Chainstitch
* See Spec Pkg for
"Binding Type"
Back Neck
* Closing Seam- Left Shoulder
* Stitchtack seamallowance
towardback
K3-1b Neck Finished w/ Binding
Outside of Garment
Wearer's Left Front
BindingSet w/
Chainstitch

Set-In Neck Trim Left Back Join Seam
K3-2a Set-in Neck Trim w/
Left Back Join Seam
* Topstitch w/ Chainstitch
unless otherwisein Spec Pkg.

* TrimJoinseam
3/4" back from
Wearer'sLeft Shoulder seam
Back
K3-2b Set-in Neck Trim w/
Left Back Join Seam
Inside of Garment
Seam: 4-Thread Overedge
(Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
K3-2c Set-in Neck Trim -
Back Join Seam Detail
Fold to
one side
Fold to side
(opposite from
other end)
Raw Edge
Raw Edge
K3-2d Set-in Neck Trim -
Back Join Seam Detail
Imaginary
Fold Line


Set-In Neck Trim Center Back Join Seam
K3-3a Set-in Neck Trim w/
Center Back Join Seam
* Topstitch w/ Chainstitch
unless otherwisein Spec Pkg.

* TrimJ oinseam
at Center Back Neck
Back
K3-3b Set-in Neck Trim w/
Center Back Join Seam

K3-3c Set-in Neck Trim -
Center Back Join Seam Detail
Seam: 4-Thread Overedge
(Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
Inside of Garment

Fold to
oneside
Fold to side
(oppositefromother end)
Raw Edge
Raw Edge
K3-3d Set-in Neck Trim -
Center Back Join Seam Detail


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 10 November 2009
NECK FINISHES (continued):

Set-In Trim / Border with Facing
Backstitch
K3-4a Set-In Trim / Border w/ Facing
Topstitch: Chainstitch
(unlessotherwiseper SpecPkg)
Insideof Garment
Shoulder
Seam
Front
Back
Neck Edge
K3-4b Set-In Trim / Border w/ Facing
Seam: 4-ThreadOveredge
(unlessotherwiseper Spec Pkg)

V Neck with Set-In Trim Mitered Center Front
Outsideof Garment
* MiteredSeamat
Center Front "V"
* Topstitch: Chainstitch
(unlessotherwiseper Spec Pkg)
K3-5a "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim -
Mitered Center Front

K3-5b "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim -
Mitered Center Front
Topstitch: Chainstitch
(Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
Outside of Garment
* Mitered Seam at
Center Front "V"
K3-5c "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim -
Mitered Center Front
Inside of Garment
Seam: 4-Thread Overedge
(Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
* Mitered Seamat
Center Front "V"


V Neck with Set-In Trim Stitch-Tack at Center Front
Outsideof Garment
* Stitch-tack at
Center Front "V"
* Topstitch: Chainstitch
(unlessotherwiseper Spec Pkg)
K3-6a "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim -
Stitch-tack at Center Front

Outside of Garment
K3-6b "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim -
Stitch-tack at Center Front
Topstitch: Chainstitch
(Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
* Stitch-tack at
Center Front "V"
Inside of Garment
Seam: 4-Thread Overedge
(Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
K3-6c "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim -
Stitch-tack at Center Front
* Stitch-tack at
Center Front "V"

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 11 November 2009
NECK FINISHES (continued):

Low V Neck Trim Overlapped at Center Front
K3-7a Low V-Neck w/Trim -
Overlapped at Center Front
Outsideof Garment
* Overlap at Center Front
* Topstitch: Chainstitch
(unless otherwise
per Spec Pkg)

* Overlap at Center Front
* Topstitch: Chainstitch
(unless otherwise
per Spec Pkg)
Outsideof Garment
K3-7b Low V-Neck w/Trim -
Overlapped at Center Front

K3-7c Low V-Neck w/Trim -
Overlapped at Center Front
Inside of Garment
* Overlap at Center Front
* Seam: 4-Thread Overedge
(unless otherwiseper Spec Pkg)


High V Neck Trim Overlapped at Center Front
Outsideof Garment
* Overlap at Center Front
* Topstitch: Chainstitch
(unless otherwise
per Spec Pkg)
K3-7d High V-Neck w/ Trim -
Overlapped at Center Front

Outside of Garment
* Overlap at Center Front
* Topstitch: Chainstitch
(unless otherwise
per Spec Pkg)
K3-7e High V-Neck w/ Trim -
Overlapped at Center Front

Inside of Garment
* Overlap at Center Front
* Seam: 4-Thread Overedge
(unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
K3-7f High V-Neck w/ Trim -
Overlapped at Center Front


V Neck with Set-In Trim & Elasticized Center Front
Outsideof Garment
* Stitch-tack at
Center Front "V"
* Topstitch: Chainstitch
(unlessotherwiseper SpecPkg)
K3-8a "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim -
Elasticized Shirring at Center Front
Elasticized
Shirring

Topstitch: Chainstitch
(Unlessotherwiseper Spec Pkg)
* Stitch-tack at
Center Front "V"
Outsideof Garment
K3-8b "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim -
Elasticized Shirring at Center Front

Insideof Garment
ElasticTape
Note: DistributeShirringevenly
* Stitch-tack at
Center Front "V"
Seam: 4-ThreadOveredge
(Unlessotherwiseper SpecPkg)
K3-8c "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim -
Elasticized Shirring at Center Front

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 12 November 2009
NECK FINISHES (continued):

Keyhole at CF w/ Drawstring through Casing Keyhole at CF w/ Binding Trim & Tie
K3-11 Keyhole at CF Neck
w/ Drawstring through Casing
3-Thread
Overedge
Lockstitch to
form Casing
* Drawstring in Casing
* See Spec Pkg for
Drawstring quality

K3-12 Keyhole at CF Neck
w/ Binding
Self Fabric
Binding w/
Edgestitch
Tie continuous
frombinding
Binding Trim
w/Edgestitch

Lace Neck Trim Appliqud to Shell
K3-13a Lace Trim at Neck
Lace Trim
Edgestitch
Outside View
Stitch through
along shell
finished neck edge
K3-13b Lace Trim at Neck
Inside View
Inside of
Lace Trim
Edgestitch along
Lace Trim Edge
Edgestitch
Miter at Center Front
Stitch through
along shell
neckline finished
edge.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 13 November 2009

Notch Collar with Facing
Outside of Garment
K3-9a Notch Collar with Facing
Clean Finish at Back Neck
* Backstitch if
no Topstitching.
See Spec Pkg.
Facing w/
Overedge Finish
K3-9b Notch Collar with Facing
Inside of Garment
* Facing shaped to
Shoulder
* Tack at Shoulder
* Backstitch if
no Topstitching.
See Spec Pkg.

Notch Collar with Partial Placket & Facing
K3-10a Notch Collar - Partial Placket
* Backstitch if
no Topstitching.
See Spec Pkg.
Outside of Garment
Clean Finish at Back Neck
Facing w/
Overedge Finish
Inside of Garment
* Backstitch if
no Topstitching.
See Spec Pkg.
* Facing shaped to
Shoulder
* Tack at Shoulder
K3-10b Notch Collar - Partial Placket

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 14 November 2009
COLLAR OPTIONS:

NOTE: Collar sketches are for construction only, not for Collar shape.

2-Piece Collar
K3-14a 2-Piece Convertible Collar - No Topstitch
Top Collar
Under Collar
Backstitch
Under Collar
Top Collar
Topstitch (SeeSpec Pkg)
* Seespec pkg for Topstitch Detail
K3-14b 2-Piece Convertible Collar - with Topstitch

Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand
Edgestitch @ Stand Seam
DT2-2a Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand - No Topstitch
Top Collar
Clean Finish @ Neck
Under Collar
Backstitch
* See spec pkg for
Topstitch Detail
Under Collar
Top Collar
Edgestitch @ Stand Seam
DT2-2b Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand - Topstitched

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 15 November 2009
COLLAR OPTIONS (continued):

NOTE: Collar sketches are for construction only, not for Collar shape.

Stand Collar
DT2-3a Stand Collar - No Topstitch
Outside of Collar
Inside of Collar
Neck seam
Neck seam
Backstitch
See Spec Pkg for
Topstitch Detail
Inside of Collar
Neck seam
Neck seam
DT2-3b Stand Collar - Topstitched
Outside of Collar

Collar w/ Banana Stand
Back Stitch to 1"
fromCollar Point
Outside of Top Collar
Outside of Under Collar
DT2-5a Collar w/ Banana Stand - No Topstitch
Open Press w/
Edgestitch
Outside of Top Collar
Outside of Under Collar
DT2-5b Collar w/ Banana Stand - Topstitched
* SeeSpec Pkg for
Topstitch Detail
Open Press w/
Edgestitch

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 16 November 2009
FRONT PLACKET CLOSURES:


InsideView
Weaerer'sRight
OutsideView
Wearer'sLeft
Interlining
OutsideView
Wearer'sRight
Wearer'sRight
Wearer'sLeft
A8-1 Top Applied Placket
Bottomof Placket
A8-2a 1-Piece Attached Placket
Outside View
(sameconstructionfor
Right & Left Front Edge)
Inside View
(sameconstructionfor
Right & Left Front Edge)
InsideView
(sameconstruction for
Right & Left Front Edge)
OutsideView
(sameconstruction
for Right & Left
Front Edge)
A8-2b Attached Placket w/Shaped Front Facing
*J oin Seam
w/Crackstitch
or Topstitch
(seeSpec Pkg)
*Backstitch
(NOTE: No Backstitch if
Placket Edgeis Topstitched)
SeeSpec Pkg
for Facing EdgeFinish


A8-3 Mock Placket
Outside View
Wearer's Right
Inside View
Wearer's Right
Raw Edge Enclosed in Fold
A8-4a 1-Piece Straight Partial Placket
InsideView
Wearer'sRight
SeeSpec Pkgfor:
* Placket Length
* Button/Buttonholes
* Bottomof Placket Detail
OutsideView
Wearer'sRight
OutsideView
Wearer'sLeft



InsideView
(sameRight & Left)
OutsideView
(sameRight & Left)
*J oin Seam
w/Crackstitch
or Topstitch
(seeSpec Pkg)
*Backstitch
(Note:
No Backstitch
if Placket edge
is Topstitched)
A8-4b Partial Placket w/ Shaped Facing


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 17 November 2009
FRONT PLACKET CLOSURES (continued):

A8-8 Hidden Placket-Attached; set w/ Crackstitch
Finished
Outside View
Wearer's Right
Finished
Wearer's Right
Facing
Facing
Button Separator /
Inner Tack
Attached
Placket Seam
w/ Crackstitch
Lining
Inside View -
Crackstitch
*Note: Placket may be topstitched, see spec pkg.
Outer Finished View
Wearer's
Right
Facing
Button Separator/
Inner Tack between
Buttonholes
Lining or Fabric layer
Attach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg):
A) Attached Button Separator
or
B) Interior tack
(Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)
Interior
Tack
A8-8 Hidden Placket-Attached; Crackstitch
Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front)
Wearer's
Right
Front

A8-6 Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched
Finished
Wearer's Right
Finished
Wearer's Right
Facing
Facing
Topstitch
Button
Separator
Inner Tack
Outer Finished View
A8-10 Hidden Partial Placket
OutsideView
Wearer's Right
InsideView
Wearer's Right
SeeSpec Pkg
for Detail
Raw Edge
OutsideView
Wearer's Left
Continuous Fold

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 18 November 2009
KEYHOLE CLOSURES:

Keyhole Lined to Edge Keyhole w/ Continuous Lapped Placket
DT6-a Key Hole Closure - Lined to Edge
Backstitch
Lined to Edge
DT6-b Key Hole Closure
Mitered
Stitch-tack
Continuous Lapped Placket
*See Spec Pkg
for Neck Closure
Full Clean Finish
Binding over
raw edge
Center Back
Seam


Keyhole Clean Finish w/ Facing
DT6-c Key Hole Closure - Clean Finish w/ Facing
Backstitch
Facing
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 19 November 2009
FACING OPTIONS:

Attached Facings
OutsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front
Backstitch
InsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front Facing
Facing
Shaped to
Shoulder
K5-1a Attached Facing; Shaped Facing
w/ Overedge Finish
3-Thread
overedge
finish
OutsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front
Backstitch
InsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front Facing
Facing
Shaped to
Shoulder
K5-1b Attached Facing; Shaped Facing
w/ Bendback Edge
3-Thread
overedge
finish
Bendback
w/
Edgestitch

Backstitch
Facing Edge
Straight
to Neck
K5-1c Attached Facing - Straight Facing
w/ Overedge Finish
3-Thread
Overedge
Finish
InsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front Facing
OutsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front
Backstitch
Facing Edge
Straight
to Neck
K5-1d Attached Facing - Straight Facing
w/ Bendback Edge
3-Thread
Overedge
Finish
InsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front Facing
OutsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front
Bendback
w/
Edgestitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 20 November 2009
FACING OPTIONS (continued):

Bendback Facings
OutsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front
InsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front Facing
Facing
Shaped to
Shoulder
K5-3a Single Bendback - Shaped Facing
w/ Overedge Finish
3-Thread
Overedge
Finish
Bendback
Edge
OutsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front
InsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front Facing
Facing
Shaped to
Shoulder
K5-3b Single Bendback - Shaped Facing
w/ Bendback Finish
3-Thread
Overedge
Finish
Bendback
Edge
Bendback
w/
Edgestitch

Facing Edge
Straight
to Neck
K5-3c Single Bendback - Straight Facing
w/ Overedge Finish
OutsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front
InsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front Facing
3-Thread
Overedge
Finish
Bendback
Edge
Facing Edge
Straight
to Neck
K5-3d Single Bendback - Straight Facing
w/ Bendback Finish
OutsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front
InsideView
"Wearer's Right"
Front Facing
3-Thread
Overedge
Finish
Bendback
Edge
Bendback
w/
Edgestitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 21 November 2009
FACING OPTIONS (continued):

Attached Facing w/ Notch Collar
Backstitch
Backstitch
Insideof Garment
Front Facing
K5-2a Attached Facing - Notch Collar; Overedge Finish
1" upfrom
"Top" Buttonhole
3/4" below
"Top"
Buttonhole
Outsideof Garment
3-Thread
Overedge
Finish
Backstitch
Backstitch
Insideof Garment
Front Facing
K5-2b Attached Facing - Notch Collar w/ Bendback
Finish
1" upfrom
"Top" Buttonhole
3/4" below
"Top"
Buttonhole
Outsideof Garment
3-Thread
Overedge
Finish
Bendback
w/
Edgestitch

Combination Facing Set-In Trim
K5-4 Combination/ Facing
Inside of Front
Facing
Backstitch
Lingerie Loop
if Sleeveless -
See Spec Pkg
NOTE: w/ or w/o Sleeves; w/ or w/o Topstitch
See Spec Pkg
for Facing
Edge Finish
Backstitch
for
Sleeveless

Outside View
K5-5 Set-In Trim
Inside View
Seam: 4-Thread
Overedge stitch
* See Spec Pkg
for Topstitch

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 22 November 2009
HEM FINISH OPTIONS:

K4-1 Bendback w/1/8" 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch
Raw edge 1/16 - 1/8"
beyond Coverstitch
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
K4-2 Bendback w/ 1/4" 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch
Raw edge 1/16 - 1/8"
beyond Coverstitch
Inside of Garment
Outside of Garment
K4-3 Bendback w/Overedge; Topstitched
Outside Garment Inside Garment
Overedge Topstitch
K4-4 Baby Roll w/ Edgestitch
Outside Garment Inside Garment
Baby Roll
Edgestitched

K4-5 Facing w/ Overedge; Topstitched
Outside Garment
Inside Garment
Overedge
Topstitched
Backstitch
Facing
K4-6 Bendback w/ Overedge; Blindstitch
Outside Garment Inside Garment
Overedge
Blindstitch
(No deep stitch pick )

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 23 November 2009
SLIT OPTIONS
Clean Finish at Seam; Blindstitched
A14-3a Slit-Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem &
Blindstitched - No Tack
Overedge
S
e
a
m
Seam- Clean Finish
Inside Garment Outside Garment
Seam
Blind Stitch
Outside Garment
A14-3b Slit-Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem &
Blindstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Seam
Overedge
Seam- Clean Finish
Blind Stitch
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Stitch-tack Stitch-tack
Outside Garment
A14-3c Slit-Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem &
Blindstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
Seam
Overedge
Seam- Clean Finish
Blind Stitch
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Bartack Bartack


Full Bendback w/Topstitch
A14-4a Slit-Full Bendback Edge Finish
w/ Topstitched - No Tack
S
e
a
m
Top Stitch
Full Bend
Back
S
e
a
m
*See spec pkg for HemStitch
Inside Garment Outside Garment
A14-4b Slit-Full Bendback Edge Finish
w/ Topstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Top Stitch
*See spec pkg for HemStitch
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Full Bend
Back
Stitch-tack
Stitch-tack
A14-4c Slit-Full Bendback Edge Finish
w/ Topstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
Top Stitch
*See spec pkg for HemStitch
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Full Bend
Back
Bartack Bartack
Seam


Bendback & Topstitched
A14-5a Slit - Topstitched - No Tack
S
e
a
m
S
e
a
m
Top Stitch
Overedge
*See spec pkg for HemStitch
Outside Garment Inside Garment

Outside Garment
A14-5b Slit - Topstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Overedge
Inside Garment
*See spec pkg for HemStitch
S
e
a
m
Top Stitch
S
e
a
m
Stitch-tack Stitch-tack
*See spec pkg for HemStitch
Outside Garment
A14-5c Slit - Topstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
Overedge
S
e
a
m
Top Stitch
Inside Garment
S
e
a
m
Bartack Bartack

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 24 November 2009
SLIT OPTIONS (continued):

Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner - Blindstitched

A14-8a Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner;
Blindstitched - No Tack
S
e
a
m
Overedge
Mitered Corner
Inside Garment Outside Garment
Blind Stitch

Mitered Corner
Outside Garment
A14-8b Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner;
Blindstitched ; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Overedge Blind Stitch
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Stitch-tack Stitch-tack

Mitered Corner
Outside Garment
A14-8c Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner;
Blindstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
Overedge Blind Stitch
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Bartack Bartack


Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner - Topstitched

A14-9a Slit-Bendback Facing w/Mitered Corner;
Topstitched - No Tack
S
e
a
m
Overedge
Top Stitch
Mitered Corner
Inside Garment Outside Garment
Seam


Mitered Corner
Top Stitch
Overedge
S
e
a
m
Outside Garment
A14-9a Slit-Bendback Facing w/Mitered Corner;
Topstitched - No Tack
Inside Garment
Seam
Stitch-tack Stitch-tack

Mitered Corner
Top Stitch
Overedge
S
e
a
m
Outside Garment
A14-9c Slit-Bendback Facing w/Mitered Corner;
Topstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
Inside Garment
Seam
Bartack Bartack





Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 25 November 2009
SLIT OPTIONS (continued):

Attached Facing w/ Overedge Finish - Blindstitched
A14-11a Slit-Attached Facing w/Overedge &
Blindstitched - No Tack
Inside Garment Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
Seam
Overedge
Blind Stitch
Backstitch
Attached Facing
Overedge
Attached Facing
Backstitch
A14-11b Slit-Attached Facing w/Overedge &
Blindstitched - Stitch-tack
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
Blind Stitch
Seam
Inside Garment
Stitch-tack
Stitch-tack
A14-11c Slit-Attached Facing w/Overedge &
Blindstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
Overedge
Attached Facing
Backstitch
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
Blind Stitch
Seam
Inside Garment
Bartack
Bartack


Attached Facing with Overedge Finish - Topstitched
A14-14a Slit-Attached Facing w/ Overedge &
Topstitched - No Tack
S
e
a
m
Top Stitch
Blind Stitch
Attached Facing
Outside Garment Inside Garment
Seam
Overedge
Backstitch
Overedge
Attached Facing
Backstitch
A14-14b Slit-Attached Facing w/ Overedge &
Topstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
S
e
a
m
Outside Garment Inside Garment
Blind Stitch
Top Stitch
Seam
Stitch-tack Stitch-tack Stitch-tack
Overedge
Attached Facing
Backstitch
A14-14c Slit-Attached Facing w/ Overedge &
Topstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
S
e
a
m
Outside Garment Inside Garment
Blind Stitch
Top Stitch
Seam
Bartack Bartack


Outside Garment
A14-16 Slit - Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem
Overedge
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Singlebendback
* 4-Thread Overedge seamstitch
* Closed seamto 1" above slit
* Open press at top of Slit
Clean Finish w/ seam
* Singlebendback hem
beforefinishing Slit
A14-17 Slit w/ Single Bendback & Topstitch
Outside Garment
* 4-Thread Overedgeseamstitch
* Closed seamto 1" aboveslit
* Open press at top of Slit
Overedge
Inside Garment
* SeeSpec Pkg for
Topstitch details
S
e
a
m
Topstitch
Single
bendback

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 26 November 2009
WELT & BESOM POCKETS

Angled Welt Pocket Horizontal Welt Pocket
Outside of Garment Inside of Garment
Basteclosed w/ 1/2"
open at each end
K6-1a Welt Pocket- Angled w/ Topstitch
K6-1b Welt Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment w/o Facing
Basteclosed w/ 1/2"
open at each end


Angled Besom Pocket Horizontal Besom Pocket
Outside of Garment
Basteclosed w/ 1/2"
open at each end
Inside of Garment w/o Facing
K6-2a Besom Pocket - Angled w/ Topstitch
Outside of Garment Inside of Garment w/o Facing
Basteclosed w/ 1/2"
open at each end
K6-2bBesom Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch



Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 27 November 2009
VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET:

Attachto Frt Facing
Frt Edgew/ LiningStrip
Insideof Garment - Tack Option 1
StitchTack
Closedw/
1/2" Open
at eachends
J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
StitchTack under Facing
Insideof Garment - Tack Option 2
J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled
StitchTack
Closedw/
1/2" Open
at eachends
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
w/o Bartack
J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
No Topstitch; w/o Bartack
Outside of Garment
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e

J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
No Topstitch, w/Bartack
Outside of Garment
w/ Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
w/o Bartack
Outsideof Garment
J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
w/ Topstitch; no Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
w/ Topstitch & Bartack
Outside of Garment
w/ Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e

Outside of Garment
J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
No Topstitch; w/o Bartack
w/o Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e

F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
No Topstitch; w/Bartack
Outside of Garment
w/o Bartack
Outside of Garment
J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
w/ Topstitch; no Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
w/ Bartack
F
r
o
n
t

E
d
g
e
J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled;
w/ Topstitch & Bartack
Outside of Garment

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 28 November 2009
WELT & BESOM POCKETS W/ FLAP:


Outsideof Garment
FlapSet aboveWelt Edge
K7-1a Angled Welt Pocket w/ Flap
(Topstitch at outer edge)
Raw Edge
Enclosed
Under Flap
* SeeSpec Pkg for Topstitch Detail

FlapSet aboveWelt Edge
K7-1b Horizontal Welt Pocket w/ Flap
(Topstitch at outer edge)
Outsideof Garment
Under Flap
Raw Edge
Enclosed
* SeeSpec Pkgfor Topstitch Detail
K7-2a Angled Besom Pocket w/ Flap
(Topstitch at outer edge)
Under Flap
Outsideof Garment
Flap set into Welt seam
* SeeSpec Pkg for Topstitch Detail
Outsideof Garment
K7-3b Horizontal Besom Pocket w/ Flap
(Topstitch at outer edge)
Flapset into Welt seam
Under Flap
* SeeSpec Pkgfor Topstitch Detail






PATCH POCKETS:

Single
Bendback
OveredgeFinish-
* Seespec pkg
Topstitch to set Pocket
J6-7a Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing
Topstitched Setting
Bendback
Facing
* SeeSpec Pkg. for
Facing Finish

* SeeSpec Pkg. for
Facing Finish
Topstitch to set Pocket
J6-7b Patch Pocket - Attached Facing
Topstitched Setting
Single
Bendback
OveredgeFinish -
* Seespec pkg
* 1" Attached Facing
* Backstitch
or Topstitched.
SeeSpec Pkg
J7-4a Flap-Patch Pocket-
Topstitch w/ Stitch-tack
Raw Edge
Enclosed
Stitch Tack
Under Flap:
Bias
Raw Edge
Enclosed
J7-4b Flap-Patch Pocket-
Topstitch w/ Bartack
Under Flap:
Bias
Bartack
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 29 November 2009
VERTICAL ONSEAM POCKET:
J6-5a Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with Bendback / Extended Facing
P
o
c
k
e
t

o
p
e
n
i
n
g
Outsideof Garment
TopPocket Bag
Opening
Bendback
(seeSpec Pkg
for Facing width)
Edgestitch
Opening
Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing
Under Pocket
Bag
Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension
Opening
Attached Facing
w/ Backstitch
or
Topstitch
(seeSpec Pkg
for Facing width)
Opening
Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing
Edgestitch
TopPocket Bag
J6-5b Vertical "Onseam" Pocket w/ Attached Facings
Outsideof Garment
P
o
c
k
e
t

o
p
e
n
i
n
g
Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing
J6-5c Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with No Facing; Attached Pocket Bag
P
o
c
k
e
t

o
p
e
n
i
n
g
Outsideof Garment
TopPocketBag
Opening
Attached
Pocket Bag
w/ Backstitch
Opening
Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing
Under Pocket
Bag
Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension
Attached
Pocket Bag
w/ Backstitch

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 30 November 2009
PLEATS:
Inverted Pleat
A3-1 Inverted Pleat
Edgestitch to
Control Pleat
InsideView
Outside View
Box Pleat
A3-2 Box Pleat
Outside View
Inverted Pleat / Box Pleat Tacked for Shipping:
A3-5 Inverted Pleat "X" Tack for Shipping
Pintuck
A3-4 Pintuck
Knife / Single Side Pleat
A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 31 November 2009
TOPSTITCH OPTIONS - CUT & SEW KNITS:

Single Chainstitch 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch
Topside Underside
ST-401 Single Needle Chainstitch
Underside
ST-406 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch
Topside
*SeeSpec Pkg for NeedleSpacing

Split Needle w/ 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch
Underside
of Stitch
K1-3a Split Needle Topstitch
w/ 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch ; 1/4" Spacing
Topside
of Stitch
Seamcentered
between stitch lines

K1-3b Split Needle Topstitch
w/ 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch ; 1/4" Spacing
Neckline

K1-3c Split Needle Topstitch
w/ 2-Needle Bottom Coverstitch ; 1/4" Spacing
Armhole

Top & Bottom Coverstitch Options
ST-602 2-Needle Top & Bottom Coverstitch;
4-Thread
Topside Underside

ST-605 3-Needle Top & Bottom Coverstitch;
5-Thread
Underside Topside

ST-607 4-Needle Top & Bottom Coverstitch;
6 Thread
Underside Topside
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 32 November 2009
DRAWSTRING CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS:

Top Hem Casing Options:
K4-8a Drawstring at Waist
Attached Casing - Narrow
Drawstring
(See Spec Pkg)
Opening;
Eyelet,
Buttonhole,
or
Open at End
*SeeSpec Pkg
K4-8b Drawstring at Waist
Attached Casing - Wide
no casing stitch
Drawstring
(SeeSpec Pkg)
Opening;
Eyelet,
Buttonhole,
or
Open at End
*See Spec Pkg
K4-8c Drawstring at Waist
Attached Casing - Wide
w/ Casing Stitch
Drawstring
(SeeSpec Pkg)
Opening;
Eyelet,
Buttonhole,
or
Open at End
*See Spec Pkg
Casing Stitch

Attached Waist Casing Options:
K4-9a Drawstring at Waist
Attached Casing - Narrow
Drawstring
(See Spec Pkg)
Opening;
Eyelet or
Buttonhole
*See Spec Pkg
* Seam: 4-Thread Overedge
* Press seamallowance
toward body
* Topstitch (See Spec Pkg.)
K4-9b Drawstring at Waist
Drawstring
(See Spec Pkg)
Opening;
Eyelet or
Buttonhole
*See Spec Pkg
* Seam: 4-Thread Overedge
* Press seamallowance
toward Waistband
* Topstitch (SeeSpec Pkg.)
Wide Attached Casing
w/o Waistband Casing stitch

K4-9c Drawstring at Waist
Drawstring
(See Spec Pkg)
Opening;
Eyelet or
Buttonhole
*See Spec Pkg
Casing
Stitch
* Seam: 4-Thread Overedge
* Press seamallowance
toward Waistband
* Topstitch (See Spec Pkg.)
Wide Attached Casing -
w/ Waistband casing stitch


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 33 November 2009
DRAWSTRING CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (continued):

Waist Facing / Casing
K4-9d Drawstring at Waist - Attached Facing w/Casing stitch
Drawstring
(See Spec Pkg)
Opening;
Eyelet or
Buttonhole
*See Spec Pkg
* Casing Topstitch
(See Spec Pkg)
Outside View
* Casing Topstitch
(See Spec Pkg)
Inside View
Backstitch
WAIST FACING
Facing: 1-piece w/ seam
at wearer's left side.



Waist Facing / Casing with Back Elastic

K4-9e Drawstring at Waist - Attached Facing w/Casing stitch and Back Tunneled Elastic
Facing: 1-piecew/ seam
at wearer's left side.
FRONT
Outside View
* Casing Topstitch
(SeeSpec Pkg)
Opening;
Eyelet or
Buttonhole
*SeeSpec Pkg
Drawstring
(SeeSpec Pkg)
WAIST FACING
* Casing Topstitch
(SeeSpec Pkg)
FRONT
Inside View
Backstitch
Elastic tunneled in Back
Facing / Casing * Casing Topstitch
(SeeSpec Pkg)
BACK
Outside View
* Casing Topstitch
(See Spec Pkg)
BACK
Inside View
Waist Facing:
1-piecew/ seamat
wearer's left side.
Backstitch


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 34 November 2009
ZIPPER CLOSURES CLOSED BOTTOM:
*Waistband/ Waist Finish
per SpecPkg
A4-1a Lapped Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

A4-2a Kissing Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
*Waistband/ Waist Finish
per Spec Pkg

A4-3a Exposed Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
*Waistband/ Waist Finish
per Spec Pkg

Invisible Zipper: Sealed at bottom Length: 1 1/2 longer than Opening Order to length do not cut to length.
*Waistband/ Waist Finish
per Spec Pkg
A4-4a Invisible Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

SeamLine
Bottomof
Zipper
Interlining Width:
1/4" beyond
seamline
Interlining Length:
1" beyond
Zipper Opening
A4-a Invisible Zipper Interlining -
Pant / Skirt:

A4-b Invisible Zipper setting w/ Waistband
Inside of Waistband
* Clip seamallowance at 1" fromopening edge.
* Open press Waistband seamallowance1".
Press seamallowancetoward Waistband
w/ Zipper to top edge

A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Open Seam
Inner Construction; UNLINED
Sealed End
* Stitch Zipper Tape tail
to one seamallowance
*BIAS Skirts: Do not
stitch Zipper Tail to
seamallowance.
Inside of Garment
Zipper Tail 1 to 1 1/2"
longer than
Zipper Opening
* Stitch Zipper Tape
tail to oneseamallowance
*BIAS Skirts: Do not
stitch Zipper Tail to
seamallowance.
A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Closed Seam
Inner Construction; UNLINED
Sealed End
* Safety Stitch seam
from2 1/2" below
Zipper Tail
* Press to Back or
Wearer's Left Back
Open Press for
Zipper Setting
Lockstitch
Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2" longer
than Zipper Opening





Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 35 November 2009
FLY CLOSURES:

Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband:

NOTE:
Sketch for Fly Construction
only.

See Spec Package for:
Inside Waist Finish
Outside Closure

Zipper Placement:
Top: maximum down
from seam.
Bottom: maximum up
from Fly stitch.


F
l
y

S
e
a
m
Backstitch or
Edgestitch
(per Spec Pkg)
1 1/4"
Insidetop edge:
1/8" below
outsidetop edge
B4-10a Shape Fly Extension w/ Waistband -
2 1/2"
Imaginary
Fly seamline
2 1/2"
Insideof Garment
Standard Measurements
* ReinforceFly Opening
w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to bemaximum
1/8" aboveZipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
B4-1 Shaped Fly Extension w/Waistband; Lined & Unlined
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closureper Spec Pkg
Insideof Garment
Raw edge
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"
fromFront Edge
Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
Wearer's
Left Clean Finish
Backstitch
or
Edgestitch
* SeeSpec Pkg


Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband

NOTE:
Sketch for Fly Construction
only.

See Spec Package for:
Inside Waist Finish
Outside Closure

Zipper Placement:
Top: maximum down
from seam.
Bottom: maximum up
from Fly stitch.

Insidetop edge:
B4-10b Shaped Fly Extension w/o Waistband
Facing
Insideof Garment
Backstitch
or
Edgestitch
* SeeSpec Pkg
Wearer's
Left
1 1/4"
2 1/2"
F
l
y

S
e
a
m
Standard Measurments
1/8" below
outsidetop edge
Outsideof Garment
Insideof Garment
B4-2 Shaped Fly Extension w/Facing; Lined & Unlined
* NOTE: Waist Facing Finish per Spec Pkg
Clean Finish
Edgestitch
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"
fromFront Edge
Wearer's
Left
Backstitch
or
Edgestitch
* SeeSpec Pkg
* ReinforceFly Opening
w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to bemaximum
1/8" aboveZipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
ButtonholeType
per Standard
w/ Button Closure
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 36 November 2009
FLY CLOSURES (continued):

Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Clean Finish at bottom
(With Waistband & Waistband Extension options):

NOTE:
Sketch for Fly Construction only.

See Spec Package for:
Finish at bottom of Fly Extension
Inside Waist Finish
Inside / Outside Waistband Extension
Outside Closure

Zipper Placement:
Top: maximum down from seam.
Bottom: maximum up from Fly
stitch.

1 1/2"
Wide,
Top
to
Bottom
B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Width
w/ Waist Band
F
l
y

S
e
a
m
B4-5a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom
Inside Waistband Extension w/ Straight End
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closureper Spec Pkg
Outsideof Garment
Insideof Garment
Zipper Teethset 3/8"
fromFront Edge
Edgestitch CleanFinish
Fold
* ReinforceFly Opening
w/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to bemaximum
1/8" aboveZipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
11/2" Inside
Extension
CleanFinish

B4-5b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish bottom
Inside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closureper Spec Pkg
Zipper Teethset 3/8"
fromFront Edge
CleanFinish Edgestitch
Fold
Outsideof Garment
Insideof Garment
1" Extension
tocorner
3/4" Point
* ReinforceFly Opening
w/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to bemaximum
1/8" aboveZipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
CleanFinish
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Fold
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closureper spec pkg
B4-5c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom
No Inside Extension
* ReinforceFly Opening
w/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to bemaximum
1/8" aboveZipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
* SeeSpec Pkgfor
WaistbandExtension
(spec, straight vspointedend)
CleanFinish
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 37 November 2009
ZIPPER CLOSURES SEPARATING ZIPPER:

A4-1b Lapped Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
See Spec Pkg for
Zipper Finish
A4-2b Kissing Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
See Spec Pkg for
Zipper Finish
A4-3b Exposed Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
See Spec Pkg for
Zipper Finish
Open End
A4-4b Invisible Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
* See Spec Pkg for
Front Facing

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 38 November 2009
ZIPPER TERMS:

(A) Closed end -
Normal type
(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended
Closed
(B) 2 - Ended
Closed
(D) 2 Pulls -
2 Open Ends
(D) 1 Pull
Open End
Common Zipper Types
(A) Closed end -
Invisible type
Sealed
End
Sealed
at Top


TapeEnds
Stringer
Cord
Bead
BottomStop
Slider
Chain
Pull
Teeth
Top Stops
Retainer
SeparablePin
Retainer Pin
Opened
Tape
Closed
Basic Zipper Construction Terms

Tape
Width
Chain
Width
Length of
Fastener
Zipper Dimension Terms

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 39 November 2009
ZIPPER WITH BINDING EDGE FINISH:

A4-6a Binding Finish / Kissing Zipper Setting -
* Zipper Inside Finish
per Spec Pkg
* Binding Edge Finish
* Applied before
Zipper set
Closed Bottom
* Bend back
Binding
at Top edge
A4-6b Binding Finish / Kissing Zipper Setting -
See Spec Pkg for
Zipper Finish
* Bend back Binding
at Bottomedge
* Hemfinish per Spec Pkg.
* Binding EdgeFinish
* Applied before
Zipper set
Open Bottom

BUTTON SETTING
Logo buttons to be set in same direction.
Buttons with self-shank do not require Thread Shank.
Setting Placement: 2-Hole Button set with 2 holes aligned with Buttonhole. 4-Hole Button with parallel stitch, unless otherwise specified.

Front Closure Button Setting:
K1-9a Button Setting - Parallel Stitch
* Parallel Stitch
* Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
w/ Functional Buttonholes

w/ Functional Buttonholes
K1-9b Button Setting - "X" Stitch
* "X" Stitch
* Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 40 November 2009
CLOSURES:


Buttonholes:
A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish
Topside
Underside
(looks sameas Topside)

Underside
(Straight Buttonhole)
Topside
A10-4b Bound Buttonhole -
Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole
A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched
Topside
Underside
(looks sameas Topside)
A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather
Topside Underside
A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole
w/Bartack at end
Bartack
w/ or w/o Gimp Filler
(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-2 Keyhole Buttonhole
w/ Fishtail End
w/ or w/o Gimp
(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-3 Regular/Straight
Buttonhole
A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole -
Horizontal
Seam
A10-5b On-Seam Buttonhole -
Vertical
Seam

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 41 November 2009
Loop & Frog Closures

A10-6a Crochet Button Loop -
Kissing Setting


A10-6b Crochet Button Loop -
Open Setting

A10-7a Button Loop -
Kissing Setting
A10-7b Button Loop -
Open Setting



A10-7c Button Loop -
Closed Setting

Top Side
Under side of Loop
A10-8 Folder Button Loop

A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure


Thread Eyelet
A10-6 Thread Eyelet
*Refer to spec package
for placement

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 42 November 2009
Hook & eye types with inside top of zipper setting:
A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye
A11-1b Hook &
Straight Eye
A11-1c Hook & Loop

Hook & Loop Eye Setting inside top edge Hook & Thread Loop Setting inside top edge
A11-1 Setting Hook
Tack under
base of Hook
& Loop Eye
A11-1 Setting Hook
Tack under
base of Hook
& Thread Loop

Hook & Loop Eye Setting - inside/top of zipper Hook & Thread Loop Setting inside top of zipper
A11-1a Setting Hook & Loop Eye
Set Zipper
w/Zipper Slideedge
1/4" down from
finished top edge
at Inside Top of Zipper
A11-1c Setting Hook & Thread Loop
Set Zipper
w/Zipper Slide edge
1/4" down from
finished top edge
at Inside Top of Zipper

Hook & Bar; Hook & Loop Tape:
A11-2a Hook & Bar
a. Machine Set
* Note: Reinforce w/
Self or Interlining

A11-2b Hook & Bar
b. Hand Set

A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape
Hook Tape
Loop Tape
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 43 November 2009
DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING
HANDTACKING

Step 1
To form initial knot the thread must passes through self fabric or
yarn


Step 2
Circle the needle 2 times, then pull out the needle to form initial
knot.

Step 3
Initial knot formed must be tied to the fabric or yarn
Tail extending from knot must be trimmed to .

Step 4
Affix the embellishment to the body using same needle from
initial knot on self fabric.

Step 5
Affix the embellishment by using 2 plies of thread with 2 passes
through the fabric. Do not make the length of the passes more
than long.

Step 6
After affixing the embellishment on the face side, pass the
needle through to the inside for ending knot finishing in the same
manner as step 1 and step 2.
MACHINE TACKING
1. If factory has adjusted the normal buttonhole machine into 2 hole stitching for tacking purposes, only lockstitch buttonhole machine can be
used for Ann Taylor product.
2. If factory uses single lockstitch machine for tacking purposes appropriate and sufficient back stitches must be applied to secure
3. Bar tacking machine application is limited to heavier fabric. Please advise when using this application to Technical Designer or QA for approval.

BEAD AND SEQUIN CONSTRUCTION
HAND TACKING
1. Initial knot must be tied up to fabric or yarn in designated position following design layout
2. At least 2 plies of thread with 2 pass of needle must be passed through the fabric or yarn for each tack point.
3. Ending knot must be added to secure each tacked position.
4. Floating thread in between in between tacking cannot exceed on wrong side of the fabric. Floating thread longer than is not acceptable.
5. For beading spacing longer than or all over beading, beading should be tacked separately to secure beads.
Initial Knot
Self Fabric
Initial Knot
Rosette/embellishment
Initial Knot
Ending Knot
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 44 November 2009
BELT LOOPS:
Press w/ Seamcentered
A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop

A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop
Seamat edge.

A12-3 Folder Finish-Belt Loop

Top side Under side
A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop

A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/
Tear Drop (at seam)
Seam

A12-4b Crochet Belt Loop /
Tear Drop (at edge)
A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/
Tear Drop
A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop
(set in Seam)


(4) Reverse
Bendback
(5) Outside
Stitch-tack
(3) Inside
Stitch-tack
(2) ReverseBendback
(1) Stitch-tack
A12-5 Clean Finish Top & Bottom
Outside Stitch-tack @ Top
(4) Reverse
Bendback
(5) Inside
Stitch-tack
(3) Inside
Stitch-tack
(2) ReverseBendback
(1) Stitch-tack
A12-6 Clean Finish Top & Bottom
Inside Stitch-tack
A12-7 Clean Finish @ Bottom;
Single Bendback @ Top w/Bartack
(4) Bartack
(3) Single
Bendback
(2) ReverseBendback (1) Stitch-tack
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 45 November 2009
SPECIAL CONSTRUCTIONS:

Adjustable Strap Adjustable Strap Extension Attachment
K1-4 Adjustable Strap
2"
1/2"
Bar Adjuster
O-Ring
Cami - Back View
K1-5 Adjustable Strap Extension Attachment
Raw edges are concealed and not visible.


Strap Continuous from Armhole Hanger Loop
Inside of Garment
Armhole
* Press seamallowance toward back
* Stitch tack toward back at Armhole trim.
* See Spec Pkg for
Neckline Shape & Finish
* Strap continuous
fromArmhole
K1-6 Strap Continuous from Armhole
Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment
(close-up view)
K1-7 Hanger Loop at Side Seam
SideSeam
Press toward Back
* Set Hanger Loop
1/2" down from
Top Edge.
* Stitch to seam
allowance.
Inside of Garment Hanger Loop:
Total Length: 14" finished
Width: 1/4"
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 46 November 2009
SPECIAL CONSTRUCTIONS (continued):

Camisole / Strapless w/ Bra Shelf
Elastic
Tape
Lining
Back Top Edge
K1-5 Cami / Strapless w/ Inside Shelf Bra
Front Top Edge Front Top Edge
Lining
Elastic
Tape
Backstitch
Backstitch

Front Back
Lining
S
i
d
e

S
e
a
m
Elastic
K1-5a Knit Strapless w/ Inside Shelf Bra
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 47 November 2009
DECORATIVE STITCHES:

DST-1 Pearl Stitch
Inside Garment
Pearl Stitch
Outside Garment
*Overedge stitch w/ 18-26 Stitches per Inch, depending on finish needed.
DST-2 Shell Stitch
Outside Garment
*Overedge stitch to formthread around edge in "Shell" shape.
Shell Stitch
Inside Garment
* Overedge stitch formation at raw edge uniformly stretched to have
wavy Lettuce leaf edge.
* See spec pkg for stitch width & density.
Outside Garment
DST-3 Lettuce Edge Stitch
Lettuce Edge
Surging Stitch
Inside Garment
DST-4 Picot Stitch
Outside Garment
* Two thread multi-step Chainstitch
formed just off edge.
Picot Stitch
DST-5 2-Needle Fagoting
*Decorative Chainstitch between two finished edges.
*See Spec Pkg for Picot Stitch Width.
Two Needle Fagoting
DTS-6 Pick Stitch
*See Spc Pkg for Stitch Length and Spacing.
* Stitch Length and Spacing
may be even or uneven.
Pick Stitch - Stitch through upper ply only.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Cut & Sew Knits 48 November 2009
DECORATIVE STITCHES (cont.):

DST-7 Saddle Stitch
* Stitch Length and Spacing
are equal size.
* See Spec Pkg for Stitch per Inch (SPI).
Saddle Stitch - Stitch through all layers.
* Overedge stitch.
* See Spec Pkg for specific Stitches per Inch (SPI) and Stitch Width.
Outside Garment
DST-8 Blanket Stitch
Blanket Stitch
Inside Garment

Step 2 - Topside
Step 2 - Underside
Seamat top of tuck
Double Needle w/
Narrow Zig-Zag at Underside
* closes fold
* creates tuck
* See Spec Pkg
for Tuck Height
Seamat top of tuck
Step 1- Topside Step 1 - Underside
DTS-9 Air Tucking