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ANN TAYLOR

Ann Taylor Loft


Ann Taylor Factory Stores



Construction Guidelines


SWEATER KNITS


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 2 November 2009


TABLE of CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 4
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: ............................................................................................................................................... 4
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR SWEATERS: ................................................................................................................................... 4
STITCH TENSION & HANDFEEL: ............................................................................................................................................................... 4
SEAMING FOR SWEATERS: ...................................................................................................................................................................... 5
LINKED SEAMS: ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 5
SHOULDER CUT & SEW CONSTRUCTION: .............................................................................................................................................. 5
SIDE SEAM OPTIONS: ............................................................................................................................................................................... 6
FASHIONED ARMHOLE / SLEEVE CAP & RAGLAN SLEEVE: ................................................................................................................... 7
CAMISOLE ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 8
BOTTOM & SLEEVE OPENING FINISHES: ................................................................................................................................................ 9
NECKLINE OPTIONS: ............................................................................................................................................................................... 10
Trim Finish ..................................................... 10
Turtleneck w/ 1 seam @ Back Neck ..................................................... 11
Turtleneck w/ 2 Seams @ Back Neck ..................................................... 11
Shaped Turtleneck w/ 2 seams @ Back Neck ..................................................... 12
Cowl Turtleneck w/ 2 Seams @ Back Neck ..................................................... 12
Funnel Neck (Collar Fashioned Continuous from Body) ..................................................... 13
WRAP FRONTS: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 14
FRONT CLOSURES: ................................................................................................................................................................................. 15
Plackets: ..................................................... 15
Kissing Front Edge w/ Tubular Finish ..................................................... 15
Kissing Front Edge w/ Tubular Finish & Zipper Closure ..................................................... 16
FULL NEEDLE RIB FACING FINISH & JERSEY ROLL EDGE FINISH: ..................................................................................................... 16
Full Needle Rib Strapping / Facing FNR Strapping / Facing w/ Zipper Jersey Roll Edge Finish ........................................... 16
POCKET OPTIONS:................................................................................................................................................................................... 17
Welt Pockets: ..................................................... 17
Patch Pockets: ..................................................... 17
LOOP CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS: .......................................................................................................................................................... 18
Crochet Belt Loops
STANDARD BUTTON SETTING: ............................................................................................................................................................... 18
OTHER CLOSURES: ................................................................................................................................................................................. 19
Loop & Frog Closures ..................................................... 19
Hook & Eye Closures ..................................................... 19
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 3 November 2009
Hook & Loop Eye Setting ...................................................
Hook & Thread Loop Setting ..................................................... 19
DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING ............................................................................................................................................. 20
ZIPPER SETTING: ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 21
STANDARD LINING REQUIREMENTS: .................................................................................................................................................... 22
Pattern Requirements ..................................................... 22
Lining Attachment to Shell: ..................................................... 22
SWEATER TERMS: ................................................................................................................................................................................... 23


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 4 November 2009
SWEATER KNITS
INTRODUCTION:

The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology and
components.
These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all AnnTaylor , Loft and Ann Taylor
Factory Stores apparel products.
The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.

NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.

CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:

SHADES:
All shades are to be individually labeled.

PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal):
Plaid is to match around garment.
Horizontal stripes are to match around garment.
Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package).
Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement.
Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package.
NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.
All knitting width limitations are to be advised and confirmed prior to Fit Approval.

STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR SWEATERS:
Linking Yarn: Self yarn or dyed-to-match yarn.
Fashioned Seams (unless otherwise indicated): Armhole Side Seams Sleeve Cap Underarm Cardigan Front Edge Shoulder
Neckline to be clean finished (Full-fashioned or linked trim).
Knit Trims: Made of self yarn unless otherwise specified in Spec Pkg. Linked to body unless otherwise specified.
Floats: Floats are to be knitted in a vertical position to avoid possible pulling or breaking, when feasible.

STITCH TENSION & HANDFEEL:
Count Stitches per Inch.
Stitch Tension approved per Spec Pkg.
Handfeel approved per Spec Pkg. Handfeel must be consistent within a specific color range. Handfeel may differ from light to dark.


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 5 November 2009
SEAMING FOR SWEATERS:

LINKED SEAMS:

Stitches per Inch (SPI) base on yarn type, stitch type and tension.
Fashioned seams are to be linked unless otherwise indicated.
Shoulder
Side Seam
Under arm
Armhole
Neckline Seam / Trim Setting
Front & Sleeve Hem Edge Trim (style specific)



Topside Underside
ST-101 Basting/Single thread Chainstitch



SHOULDER CUT & SEW CONSTRUCTION:

Stitches per Inch (SPI) base on yarn type, stitch type and tension.

Shoulder Seam:
Set Stay Tape to Front Shoulder w/ Chainstitch.
Quality as per Spec Pkg.
Length of Stay Tape must accommodate Shoulder Width spec. Shoulder
seams must not draw in or dimple.
Clean finish raw edge w/ 3-Thread Overedge.
Link seam w/ Chainstitch (see above sketch).
Topside Underside
ST-504 3-Thread Overedge


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 6 November 2009
SIDE SEAM OPTIONS:
NOTE: Seam can be with or without visible Fashion marks. See Spec Pkg.

Shaped Chest to Sweep Shaped Chest to Waist, Straight from Waist)
S
i
d
e

s
e
a
m
Front
A
r
m
h
o
l
e
BottomOpening
Front View
Knit Straight
Knit Straight
BottomOpening
S
i
d
e

s
e
a
m
A
r
m
h
o
l
e
Back View
Back
SeeSpec
Pkg
S1-a Side Shaped from Chest to Sweep
SeeSpec
Pkg

Side seam
Front
Back
Sideseam
A
r
m
h
o
l
e
Top SideView
aboveWaist
Knit Straight
SeeSpec
Pkg
Knit Straight
(SeeSpec Pkg)
S
i
d
e

s
e
a
m
Front
A
r
m
h
o
l
e
BottomOpening
Front View
Knit Straight
Knit Straight
S
i
d
e

s
e
a
m
A
r
m
h
o
l
e
Back View
Back
SeeSpec
Pkg
Waist
S1-b Side Shaped from Chest to Waist;
Straight to Sweep
BottomOpening
A
r
m
h
o
l
e
Knit Straight
Knit Straight
Sideseam
SeeSpecPkg
Waist
S1-b Side Shape; Straight from Waist
Knit Straight
(SeeSpecPkg)

Side Shaped at Ribs set away from Side Seam
A
r
m
h
o
l
e
S
i
d
e
s
e
a
m
Back
BottomOpening
BottomOpening
A
r
m
h
o
l
e
Front
S
i
d
e
s
e
a
m
S1-c Side Shaped at Ribs
(away from Side Seam)
*SeeSpec
Pkgfor #of
Ribsfrom
Seamto
Fashioning
Stitches
Front
A
r
m
h
o
l
e A
r
m
h
o
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e
Back
Top Side View
above Waist
Sideseam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 7 November 2009
FASHIONED ARMHOLE / SLEEVE CAP & RAGLAN SLEEVE:

NOTE: Seam can be with or without visible Fashion marks. See Spec Pkg.
* Shaped Armhole
* Full Fashioned
* See Spec Pkg for
"Fashion Mark"
spacing from seam
Knit Straight for 1/2"
(Unless specified otherwise
in See Spec Pkg.
S2-1c Fully Fashioned Armhole
at base of Curve

Knit Straight 1/2"
(Unless specified
otherwise in Spec Pkg)
S2-1f Fully Fashioned Sleeve
at base of Armhole Curve -
* Full Fashioned
* See Spec Pkg for
"Fashion Mark"
spacing from seam

Knit Straight
3" at Top of Cap
S2-1g Fully Fashioned Sleeve at Top of Cap
* Shape Cap
* Full Fashioned
* See Spec Pkg for
"Fashion Mark"
spacing from seam
(unless specified
otherwise in Spec Pkg)

S2-1h Fully Fashioned Raglan Sleeve
* Full Fashioned
* See Spec Pkg for
"Fashion Mark"
spacing fromseam
Front Back
Neck
Natural
Shoulder
Knit Straight for 1/2"
(Unless specified otherwise
in SeeSpec Pkg.)

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 8 November 2009
CAMISOLE

Full Needle Armhole Trim / Strap:
* See Spec Pkg
for #of Ribs from
seamto Fashioning
stitches
S2-2 Camisole Fully Fashioned Armhole
w/ Full Needle Rib Strap
Full Needle
Rib Strap
Sideseam
Inside of
Garment
Armhole /
Side Seam Pt.
Full Needle
Rib Armhole / Strap
S2-2 Camisole Fully Fashioned Armhole
w/ Full Needle Rib Strap

Tubular Armhole Trim / Strap:
S2-3 Camisole Tubular Armhole / Strap
Tubular Armhole/Strap
Tubular Finish
Linking Stitch
Sideseam
Inside of
Garment
Tubular
Armhole/Strap
Knit Straight
(See Spec Pkg)
Linking
Stitch
S2-3 Camisole Tubular Armhole / Strap
Side View
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 9 November 2009
BOTTOM & SLEEVE OPENING FINISHES:

Self Start Tight Tension:
S7-1a Self Start - Tighter Tension
Bottom Opening
Self Start - Tighter Tension:
BottomOpening

Self Start - Tighter Tension:
Sleeve Opening
S7-1b Self Start - Tighter Tension;
Sleeve Opening


Tubular Start:
Tubular Start:
BottomOpening
S7-2a Tubular Start - Bottom Finish

Tubular Start:
Sleeve Opening
S7-2b Tubular Start - Sleeve Finish

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 10 November 2009
NECKLINE OPTIONS:
Trim Finish: Tubular Flat Rib Neck Finish
Tubular
Linked to
Body
S3-1 Tubular Neck Finish
Flat Rib
Linked to
Body
S3-2 Flat Rib Neck Finish
Finished Edge

Full Fashioned Self Knitted V-Neck : Straight Finish Staggered Center Front Overlapped Trim
Knit Straight at CF
S3-3 Full Fashioning Self Knitted V-Neck
w/Straight CF Neck
* Self KnittedV-Neck.
* SeeSpecPkgfor
#of Needlesfromedge.
Invisibleseam
Left Shoulder
CF Crossover
stitchtosecure
"V" point
Stagger CF
S3-4 Full Fashioning Self Knitted V-Neck
w/Staggered Stitch @ CF Neck
* Self KnittedV-Neck.
* SeeSpecPkgfor
#of Needlesfromedge.
Invisibleseam
Left Shoulder
CF Crossover
stitchtosecure
"V" point

S3-7 V-Neck w/ Overlap Trim
Linked to
Full-Fashioned
Neckline
Overlap -
Wearer's Right
over Left

V-Neck w/ Mitered Seam Faux Envelope Shoulder / Neckline Overlap Envelope Shoulder / Neck
S3-6 V-Neck w/ Tubular Trim -
Mitered Seam
Linked to
Full-Fashioned
Neckline
Mitered Seam


S3-5a "Faux" Envelope Shoulder/ Neck
Trimlinked to Body along Front & Back Neckline
Linked along
Front Shoulder
Front
Back
S3-5b "Overlap" Envelope Shoulder/ Neck
Trimlinked to Body along Front & Back Neckline
* Back Overlaps Front.
* SeeSpec Pkg for
Overlap requirement.
Front
Back

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 11 November 2009
NECKLINE OPTIONS (continued):
All Collars to be set with Tubular Jersey unless otherwise indicated.
Minimum Neck Circumference 24" / 25" unless otherwise indicated in Spec Pkg.

Turtleneck w/ 1 seam @ Back Neck
Seam at Wearer's
Left Back Shoulder
S4-1 Turtle Neck w/ 1 Seam
at Back Neck
Reverse
seam 2"
above Neck
Seam
Collar Unrolled

Back
Seam
S4-1 Turtle Neck w/ 1 Seam
at Back Neck


Turtleneck w/ 2 Seams @ Back Neck
Back
S4-2a Turtle Neck w/ 2 Seams
at Back Neck
Seams
Reverse Seam
2" above
Neck Seam
Unrolled

S4-2a Turtle Neck w/ 2 Seams
at Back Neck
Back
Seams


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 12 November 2009
NECKLINE OPTIONS (continued):

Shaped Turtleneck w/ 2 seams @ Back Neck
Back
S4-2b Shaped Turtle Neck
w/ 2 Seams at Back Neck
Seams
Reverse Seam
2" above
Neck Seam
Unrolled


Back
Seams
S4-2b Shaped Turtle Neck
w/ 2 Seams at Back Neck



Cowl Turtleneck w/ 2 Seams @ Back Neck
Back
S4-2c Cowl Turtle Neck
w/ 2 Seams at Back Neck
Seams
Reversed
Seam
Unrolled

Back
Seams
S4-2c Cowl Turtle Neck
w/ 2 Seams at Back Neck

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 13 November 2009
NECKLINE OPTIONS (continued):



Funnel Neck (Collar Fashioned Continuous from Body)

S4-3 Funnel Neck
Front
Front Collar knit
continuous from
Body
Full Fashioning &
Linked at seam
S4-3 Funnel Neck
Full Fashioning &
Linked at seam
Back Collar knit
continuous from
Body
Back
Collar Seam continuous
from Shoulder Seam

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 14 November 2009
WRAP FRONTS:

Wrap Attached at Side Seam Overlap Partial Wrap
Top Layer:
*Full Fashioned
finished edge
*Linked at wearer's
left sideseam
*Full Fashioned
finished edge
*Linked at wearer's
right sideseam
Under Layer:
S8-5 Wrap attached at side seam
Overlap
*See Spec Pkg
S8-6 V-Overlap; Partial Wrap
Bodice set
Tubular linked
seam

Faux Wrap
*Wearer's Left edge
Full Fashioned
fnish
*Tubular overlaps
left Front edge
S8-7 Faux Wrap
*J oin Right & Left at
Tubular linking seam

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 15 November 2009
FRONT CLOSURES:

Plackets: Tubular Full Needle Strapping Full Needle Continuous Frt Edge Hidden Placket

S5-1a Tubular Front Edge Finish
Linked to
Body
Tubular w/
Knitted in
Folding Row
(Same Top &
Under Plkt)
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for Neckline &
BottomOpening Finish


Self Start Tighter
Tension
BottomOpening
LinkedtoBody
FNR Strapping
LinkedontoBody
(SameTop
& Under Plkt)
S5-2a Full Needle Rib Strapping Front Edge Finish
NOTE: SeeSpec Pkgfor Neck Finish

Self Start Tighter
Tension
BottomOpening
FNR Continuous
Placket
Self Knit in
(SameTop
& Under Plkt)
S5-3 Full Needle Rib Continuous to Front Edge
NOTE: SeeSpec Pkg for NecklineFinish

Self Start Tighter
Tension
BottomOpening
FNR Concealed
Placket Self Knit
in
FNR Linked
onto Body
Tacked
FNR Linked
onto Body
S5-4a Full Needle Rib Hidden Placket
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for Neckline Finish


Kissing Front Edge w/ Tubular Finish
S5-5a Kissing Front; Tubular Finish
NOTE: See Spec Pkg
for BottomFinish
Tubular Trim
Linked to Body
BottomOpening
Kissing Front
Tubular w/
Folding Row
Kissing Front
Tubular w/
Folding Row
Tubular Trim
Linked to Body
S5-5b Kissing Front; Tubular Finish
w/ Crew Neck
NOTE: See Spec Pkg
for Closure

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 16 November 2009
FRONT CLOSURES (continued):

Kissing Front Edge w/ Tubular Finish & Zipper Closure
Kissing Front
Tubular w/
Folding Row
Tubular Trim
Linked to Body
S5-5c Kissing Front; Tubular Finish
w/ Collar & Zipper
S5-5d Kissing Front; Tubular Finish
Zipper Setting
Tubular Linked
to Body
Folding Row
at Edge
CF w/
Zipper
Closure

FULL NEEDLE RIB FACING FINISH & JERSEY ROLL EDGE FINISH:

Full Needle Rib Strapping / Facing FNR Strapping / Facing w/ Zipper Jersey Roll Edge Finish
Full Needle Rib Strapping
S5-6a Full Needle Rib Strapping / Facing

Inside of Garment
CF
* Link to body at
bottomfinish
* See Spec Pkg for
BottomHt
Full NeedleRib Strapping
S5-6b Full Needle Rib Strapping / Facing
w/ Zipper
Inside of Garment
CF
* Link to body at
bottomfinish
* SeeSpec Pkg for
BottomHt
S5-7 Jersey Roll Edge Finish
J ersey
Roll
Roll up
Full
Needle
Full
Needle
J ersey
Roll
Roll under

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 17 November 2009
POCKET OPTIONS:

Link all pockets: Use self yarn unless specified otherwise.
Pocket Bag Terms:
Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Pocket Bag for heavy gauge knits: Use Jersey stitch to reduce bulk, unless specified otherwise.

Welt Pockets:
S6-1a Welt - Full Needle Rib [FNR]
(set Paralled to Welt seam)
S6-1b Welt - Rib
(right angle to Welt seam)
See Spec Pkg for Rib Type
(1 x 1, 2 x 2)
Patch Pockets:
S6-2a Patch Pocket
Pocket Opening Finish
See Spec Pkg
Linked
to Body

S6-2b Patch Pocket
Linked
to Body
Linked
to Body
Pocket OpeningFinish
SeeSpec Pkg
S6-2c Full Fashioned Patch Pocket
Full Fashioned
*See Spec Pkg for
"Fashion Mark"
Spacing fromseam
Linked to Body
Linked to Body
Pocket
Opening

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 18 November 2009
LOOP CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS:

Crochet Belt Loops Hanger Loops
A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/
Tear Drop

A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop
(set in Seam)
S8-4 Hanger Loop
at Side Seam
Linked
Side Seam
Inside of Garment
*See Spec Pkg
for Placement
S8-4 Hanger Loop at Side Seam
SideSeam
Stitch
Tack
*SeeSpec Pkg
for Placement
STANDARD BUTTON SETTING:
Thread Shank
w/ Wrap
S8-3a Button Setting - Parallel Stitch
* Parallel Stitch
* Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
w/ Functional Buttonholes
w/ Functional Buttonholes
S8-3b Button Setting - "X" Stitch
* "X" Stitch
* Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
Thread Shank
w/ Wrap
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 19 November 2009
OTHER CLOSURES:
Loop & Frog Closures
A10-6a Crochet Button Loop -
Kissing Setting

A10-6b Crochet Button Loop -
Open Setting

A10-7a Button Loop -
Kissing Setting

A10-7b Button Loop -
Open Setting



A10-7c Button Loop -
Closed Setting

Top Side
Under side of Loop
A10-8 Folder Button Loop

A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure


Hook & Eye Closures
A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye

A11-1b Hook &
Straight Eye
A11-1c Hook & Loop

Hook & Loop Eye Setting Hook & Thread Loop Setting
A11-1 Setting Hook
Tack under
base of Hook
& Loop Eye
A11-1 Setting Hook
Tack under
base of Hook
& Thread Loop
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 20 November 2009
DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING

HANDTACKING

Step 1
To form initial knot the thread must passes through self fabric or
yarn


Step 2
Circle the needle 2 times, then pull out the needle to form initial
knot.

Step 3
Initial knot formed must be tied to the fabric or yarn
Tail extending from knot must be trimmed to .

Step 4
Affix the embellishment to the body using same needle from
initial knot on self fabric.

Step 5
Affix the embellishment by using 2 plies of thread with 2 passes
through the fabric. Do not make the length of the passes more
than long.

Step 6
After affixing the embellishment on the face side, pass the
needle through to the inside for ending knot finishing in the same
manner as step 1 and step 2.
MACHINE TACKING
1. If factory has adjusted the normal buttonhole machine into 2 hole stitching for tacking purposes, only lockstitch buttonhole machine can be
used for Ann Taylor product.
2. If factory uses single lockstitch machine for tacking purposes appropriate and sufficient back stitches must be applied to secure
3. Bar tacking machine application is limited to heavier fabric. Please advise when using this application to Technical Designer or QA for approval.

BEAD AND SEQUIN CONSTRUCTION
HAND TACKING
1. Initial knot must be tied up to fabric or yarn in designated position following design layout
2. At least 2 plies of thread with 2 pass of needle must be passed through the fabric or yarn for each tack point.
3. Ending knot must be added to secure each tacked position.
4. Floating thread in between in between tacking cannot exceed on wrong side of the fabric. Floating thread longer than is not acceptable.
5. For beading spacing longer than or all over beading, beading should be tacked separately to secure beads.
Initial Knot
Self Fabric
Initial Knot
Rosette/embellishment
Initial Knot
Ending Knot
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 21 November 2009
ZIPPER SETTING:
NOTE: See Specification package for Right for Left Zipper Pull. Zipper illustrations are generic.
(A) Closed end -
Normal type
(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended
Closed
(B) 2 - Ended
Closed
(D) 2 Pulls -
2 Open Ends
(D) 1 Pull
Open End
Common Zipper Types
(A) Closed end -
Invisible type
Sealed
End
Sealed
at Top


TapeEnds
Stringer
Cord
Bead
BottomStop
Slider
Chain
Pull
Teeth
TopStops
Retainer
SeparablePin
Retainer Pin
Opened
Tape
Closed
Basic Zipper Construction Terms

Tape
Width
Chain
Width
Length of
Fastener
Zipper Dimension Terms

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 22 November 2009
STANDARD LINING REQUIREMENTS:
Pattern Requirements
Lining pattern pieces each 1/8 larger than shell.

Lining Attachment to Shell:

Front
Lining
Back
Lining
Inside Garment
1/2" Curtain Pleat
Close Lining
at wearer's
Left Sleeve
S5-8a Lining Finishing w/ 1-Piece Sleeve
Hand Baste
Hem
Hand Baste
Hem
Hand Baste
Hem
Hand Baste Lining to Shell along
Neckline and Front Edge





Pleat opening
1 1/2" down from
Neck seam
Taper pleat to
0" at waist
Knife Pleat
3/4" deep
Press to wearer's right
Seam
CB
Seam
S5-8b Lining CB Seam Pleat -
No Back Neck Facing
CB
Seam


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Sweater Knits 23 November 2009
SWEATER TERMS:


Floats: A portion of warp or filling yarn that extends (floats) over one or more adjacent end(s) to form knitted design.

Gauge: The distance between knitting needles related to the number of wales per inch on a knitted fabric.

Interlock stitch: A fabric where the long & short needles are directly aligned one behind the other, thus forming a pattern where the face & back of fabric
are almost identical. Fabric will have a slight 1x1 rib appearance.

Jacquard: A versatile knitting mechanism that allows intricate pattern works to be achieved by using a series of punched cards fed into the
machine. Each of these cards is punched in a manner to achieve a portion of the total patterns design. The face and back of the
fabric will appear different depending on the pattern selected.

Jersey stitch: A circular knit or flat knit fabric made with a plain stitch which knitting loops intermesh in only one direction. As a result the appearance of the
face of the fabric is different than the back.

Rib: A double knit fabric where the vertical rows of stitches intermesh alternately on the face and back of the fabric. Odd vertical rows on one side of the
fabric intermesh with the even rows on the other side of fabric.

Tension: A term used to determine the density of a stitch. Or how compact the rows of knitting are in a garment either relaxed or stretched to maximum
width. To verify knitting tension, please refer to minimum construction section of this manual.