Menswear Pattern Cutting

First Edition
Tanya Dove
-Designer, Creator, Author, Educator
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank:
My male friends who became my fitting models, and with their help
trying on my samples A Technical Foundation was created.
Edward, Stuart, Peter, Dominique, Tom and Scott.
My teacher Graham at London College of Fashion for teaching me
Bespoke Tailoring Techniques.
And to all the teachers and students who have crossed my path,
I thank you.
A Technical Foundation
Women’s Wear
Pattern Cutting
ISBN 9781849634717
Concept to Creation
The Design Process
ISBN 9781849635738
Contents
Chapter Page No.
1 Information 4
2 Trousers 16
3 Pleats and Fullness 68
4 Body blocks 76
5 Front openings 92
6 Sleeves and Cuffs 106
7 Collars 130
8 Necklines 158
9 Hoods 164
10 Pockets 170
11 Shirt details 182
12 Jersey Tops 192
13 Jersey Trousers 202
14 Boiler Suits 214
15 Casual Jackets 228
16 Casual Coats 238
17 Tailored Jackets 246
18 Tailored Coats 278
19 Ties 298
20 Loungewear 304
21 Grading 322
22 Specification Templates 328
23 Costing Garments 332
24 Fabrics 338
Introduction
Menswear Designing
Men are now far more conscious of their body and the clothes they wear, with a greater
confidence in maintaining a well-groomed appearance now defines what it is to be ‘a man’ in
today’s society. The loose fitting shirts and loose tailored trousers of the 1980’s have been
replaced from the catwalks to the high street with body conscious styles, interesting fabrics, and
clever cutting methods. Men are now much more aware of their own body and image, and how
clothes fit them.
Menswear designers and catwalk shows have always taken back stage to women’s fashion shows
and publicity, but things are now changing for men. More and more menswear designers are
pushing the boundaries of what is classified as conventional clothing for men. There were more
skirts for men seen on the Summer 14 catwalks than seen before. The idea of men in skirts blurs
the visual distinctions between the sexes. It contradicts how men are expected to look and, more
fundamentally, challenges ideal attributes of male behavior. Their adoption by the general male
populace will ultimately depend on the re-evaluation of traditional gender conventions. Through
the work of contemporary designers, the idea of ‘men in skirts’ is constantly given new impetus.
The new ‘metro-sexual’ man is a young man with a healthy disposable income, living or working
near a city. He is perhaps the most promising consumer market of the decade. The acceptance and
changing shapes and styles in menswear is becoming as important as women’s wear.
A Technical Foundation - Menswear Pattern Cutting
The aim of this book is to provide a clear flexible guide to pattern cutting for menswear. It
provides detailed construction information for garment blocks and components that are used to
produce well cut designs for men.
The measurements contained within this book have evolved from an analysis of young men, from
high street retailer sizing to individual body shapes. There is no definitive universal sizing chart,
many retailers adjusting their sizing to suit the age group of their consumers. The style of pattern
construction throughout the book provides a 40” chest, 100cm male model measurements. The
measurement guide is derived for the user to write his or her own chosen measurements, which
can replace the standard size. The pattern block construction throughout this book is for the
modern man, using up to date methodology of creation for a young slim figure.
The book includes three different shapes of body blocks that are used to create men’s top body
garments. From the fitted young style of shirt, to the formal office shirt and casual weekend style.
These foundation body blocks are used throughout the book and adapted into jersey blocks, casual
jacket and tailored jacket blocks.
To create collections, whether model size for catwalk shows and photo shoots, or an individual’s
size, garment blocks are always used in industry and adapted into the chosen design. A Technical
Foundation takes you through the creation of these blocks, which can then be used and adapted
repeatedly. It is a foundation of pattern cutting as it shows you how to create the blocks, not
individual garment designs. A Technical Foundation shows you the creation of blocks through to
plans and patterns for making specific designs, where seam allowance is only added onto pattern
examples, blocks and plans being net of allowances.
The book is written for students and fashion designers to explore their own creativity in their
approach to men’s garment creation. It shows clear detailed illustrations and technical
construction information, showing adaption of blocks in colour for easy use. Each garment block
section covers a range of different shaped garment blocks, which makes adapting into individual
designs that much easier.
The chapters have been designed in an order of simplicity at the beginning, and the technical
aspect of pattern cutting getting more complex throughout the book. Ranging from trouser and
body blocks through to tailoring and jersey wear blocks. With each garment and component in
different chapters A Technical Foundation has been designed in a way for the designers to evolve
through the book reaching a level of understanding and practice, to then have the technical
skills to design their own collections. There are also technically illustrated sample designs to
show the type of garments that the different blocks can create.
A Technical Foundation also shows detailed technical specification templates to enable the
designers to draw their designs in detail. It contains a chapter for costing garments and
producing specification sheets which are used in industry to work with pattern cutters and
factories. The grading chapter shows a grading size chart of how to change garment sizes,
with detailed illustrations and information on pivot grading.
The final chapter, Fabrics, gives information on how to cut out fabric and the different fabric
qualities. There are many choices of fabrics available to use within fashion design, from natural
fibres like cotton, wool, silk and linen to man made and mixed fibre fabrics. The fibres chart
gives a description of some different types of natural and manufactured fabrics available.
Tanya Dove
1. INFORMATION
Measurement Size Chart
The measurement size chart is a guide of body measurements for size 100cm (40”) chest, based
on a male model physique 6 foot tall. The measurements have been compiled by an analysis
of top high street retailers in the UK, and a selection of male models with the same chest
measurement. There is no definitive size chart across the UK, or indeed across the globe for
garment sizes. Many stores choose to adapt their size towards their customer profile. The main
difference between sizes is the chest and waist measurement where a 5cm grade (size
difference) is used. This still remains relatively standard across the industry. This measurement
guide chart has been used as the standard throughout A Technical Foundation. There is a column
for you to add in your own size chart, whether it is your own measurements or your idealistic
customers body size. Refer to Chapter 21, Grading for larger and smaller body sizes.
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Measurement 40"/100cm Your Size
Cross shoulder 46
One Shoulder 15
Back Neck Drop 1.5
Front Neck Drop 9
Back Neck Width 16
Neck Size 42
XB - 14cm down from HPS 42
XF - 14cm down from HPS 40
CB neck to chest (armhole depth) 26
Chest 100
Waist - (natural WL - not used) 86
Waistline ( 4cm below natural WL) 89
Body length to natural waistline 53
Waistline to Seat line 20
Seat 104
Crutch Line (body rise) from WL 28
Inside Leg 85
Outside Leg from WL 108
Thigh 59
Knee 40
Ankle 25
Sleeve Length 62
Bicep 32
Elbow 28
Wrist 18
Body Measurements
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Abbreviations Index
Abbreviations on patterns are used all across industry to save time and space in writing the full
wording. They are written on blocks, plans and patterns. Below is a chart of some key abbreviations.
Depending on design, would depend on what ones you would use within your pattern construction.
CH, WL and SL are always written on all pattern construction.
Pattern Making Tools
1. Fine liner pencil – 0.5 lead size
2. Ruler – A pattern master ruler has straight and curved edges and a right angle. It is the only
ruler required for pattern making.
3. Tape measure
4. Paper scissors
5. Notchers – notchers make a small hole in patterns, to aid with sewing garments together.
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CB Centre Back
CF Centre Front
SB Side Back
SF Side Front
SS Side Seam
CH Chest Line
WL Waist Line
SL Seat Line (hipline)
CL Crutch Line
CBL Centre Back Length
HPS High Point Shoulder
XF Cross Front
XB Cross Back
S Shoulder
AD Armhole Depth
NL Neckline
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Ease
Ease = ease of movement. When a garment block is made with measurements you need to add an
allowance to allow you to move and feel comfortable in the clothes. EASE is added into the chest, waist
and seatline as a standard. It is also added into shoulder lines, XB and XF for additional movement.
CH - Chest Line ease = 4cm (to help you breathe)
WL - Waist Line ease = 2cm-4cm (to allow for eating)
SL - Seat Line ease = 4cm (so you can sit down)
The ease above is the standard industry amount. For some very fitted styles less ease can be added to
achieve the finished look, a minimum of 2cm anywhere on the body.
For top body garments a minimum of 4cm waist ease has been added as men do not wear their clothes as
tight around the waist as women can.
2cm has been added at the waistline for trousers, otherwise they could be too big when fitted.
Seams
Seam allowances must be added onto all pattern pieces to allow you to sew them together. The industry
standard for seams is 1cm. Larger seams are used by more expensive retailers, and predominantly on
tailoring – 1.5cm or 2cm seam. The most commonly used seams are:-
Straight Seam a 1cm seam allowance when the seam is stitched together and over locked. Over
locking together and pressing to one side, or overlocking separately and pressing the seam open.
Flat Felled Seam This seam is used traditionally for casual clothing, jeans, casual trousers and
jackets which do not have lining. It is also used on men’s tailored shirts. It finished the seam neatly on
both the inside and outside. 1.5cm seam allowance is used. Sewn together at 1.5cm, one side is then cut
to 0.5cm. The larger side is folded over at 0.5cm and stitched in place to finish at 1cm finish.
Straight Seam Flat Felled Seam
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Hems
A hem is the term used for an open edge – the bottom of a garment and sleeves. The most common
hems are:-
A 2cm hem allowance is used when you double turn 1cm the hem and topstitch in place.
A 3-4cm hem allowance is used when you hand sew a hem. This is used for wool fabrics and tailored
garments. It is a more expensive way of finishing a garment. The top edge of the hem can either be
overlocked or have binding attached to finish the top raw fabric edge.
Notches
A notch is a small indentation made on pattern pieces and a 3mm cut is made in the same place on the
fabric when the garment is cut out. They are to help sewing the garment together. They are used at
CL, WL, SL, Knee line, and in specific places like the end of a zipper opening, armholes to help sewing
curves etc. Notches help so always use as many as required, especially on long seams.
When making a garment with panels, back to back panels have two notches, front to front panels have
one notch. Back to front has just one notch. 1cm seam allowance is never notched, but bigger seam
allowances do have notches. The hemline is also notched.
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Darts
Men’s blocks can have waist darts to bring excess from chest line to waistline. This is to take the 2D
pattern pieces and create 3D garments to fit the Human Form. They are used to create shaping to fit
the body where our bodies contour in and out. Some men’s shirts have darts at the back to create more
fitted styles. On tailored jackets there is a small dart in the front panel to curve the garment from
chest to waist. Very rarely are darts seen on the front of mens shirts and top body garments.
Men’s trousers have dart shaping at the back only due to men having small “hip” or seat measurement
in comparison to their waist measurement. The front of men’s trousers are always flat down from the
waistline, unless they have pleats.
Drill Holes
A drill hole is a mark that is made on a plan and pattern and transferred onto the fabric when cutting.
They are used for pockets and details that are inside a pattern piece I.E. not on an edge where you can
use a notch. The position is marked accurately on the plan and pattern however on the fabric it is best
marked 3mm down and 3mm across from the actual position to prevent any fabric damage.
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Straight Grain - the selvedge is the natural edge of the fabric. The grain line of garments follow this
line down the length of the fabric (not the edge which has been cut when the fabric was purchased).
This is the most common grain line used for menswear.
Cross Grain - is when you cut at a right angle to the grain line. This would be cutting along the
edge, which has been cut when purchased (across the fabric width). Only some fabrics can be cut out
cross grain – these tend to be stable fabrics like cottons, which do not have much natural stretch. Cross
grain cutting is also used for design detailing if the fabric is for example a stripe or check.
Bias Grain – this is when pattern pieces are cut at a 45-degree angle. This is where the fabric has
the most amount of natural stretch. Bias cut garments cling more to the body, depending on the fabric
they can completely hug the body. Traditionally the back yoke of mens shirts is cut on the bias grain.
Grain Lines
Grain lines are always drawn on all blocks, plans and pattern pieces. These show the direction in which
the fabric is to be cut out. The grain line is drawn to represent the selvedge of the fabric (the natural
edge). The grain line is drawn as a straight line with information written down the length. The purpose of
this is for the cutter to know how to cut the fabric from the pattern. It is important to ensure grain lines
are perfectly straight otherwise the fabric could be cut out wrong. This would be “off grain”. Fabric is
very sensitive when cut and if it is cut off grain it could cause the seams to not be smooth and the fabric
to not hang down the body correctly. This is called roping.
Grain Lines Diagram
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Zipper Openings
An opening on trousers finishes 18cm below the waistline to enable you to fit the garment over the seat.
Zips do not need to come any lower than 18cm below the waistline (even if you lower the
waistline). A notch mark is used to show where the zipper needs to end. This is applicable for side seam
and front and back openings. When a zipper is used at the side seam it is ALWAYS sewn on the LEFT side
of the body which makes it easy for right handed people to open easily.
When choosing a zipper for your garment it is advisable to select one that is a suitable thickness and
weight for the fabric you are going to use. If the zipper is too thin and light it will not be strong enough
for repeated use. If the zipper is too heavy it might make the fabric drag down with the weight of the
zip.
Regular Zipper
This is the zipper where you can see the zip, the “teeth”. Used in trousers for the centre front fly
opening. There are now many styles of regular zippers with different coloured teeth, metal, plastic etc.
It opens one end only with the zipper pulley (also there are many types of zipper pulleys available). This
zipper is best used when you want to see the zip, or where the zip is covered by a stand, like on mens
trousers.
Open Ended Zipper
This zip opens both ends and is used in jackets, coats and garments where you need (or want) to open
the garment up completely. The same as a regular zipper, there are many choices of open-ended
zippers available. These tend to be heavy zips, and are best used in casual wear and outerwear.
Also available are double ended open ended zippers, where the garment can be partially opened down
from the top and also up from the bottom at the same time.
Invisible Zipper
This zipper has the teeth on the inside so there is no visible zipper on the outside. Mainly used in
women’s dresses and skirts, sewn on the left side seam so it cannot be seen at all. It works well for fine
fabrics, as the zipper is more delicate than a regular zip.
Folded Edges
When a pattern piece is made with a folded edge the grain line is drawn in a different way, to show the
person cutting out the garment that the piece is on the fold. There are two different ways to draw this.
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Interfacing
Interfacing is a type of fabric that is used on the inside, generally ironed onto the fabric, to create a
firmer stiff finish. It is used to hold the shape – collars, waistline, armholes, necklines (with facings). It
is cut 3mm smaller around all sides of the pattern piece. There are different weights of interfacing, to
be used based on the weight of the fabric. Available is iron on and non iron on interfacing. Both work in
the same way, the iron on variety will make the fabric itself stiffer. If you are trying to create a ‘stiff’
form, i.e. a stand up stiff coat collar then use a very heavy interfacing (even if the fabric is lighter).
Alternatively you can hand baste canvas around the fabric to give it extra weight without stiffness. This
hand basting method is used in tailoring and gives a perfect finish to front facings and collars where you
need to make the garment more firm in these areas but without being stiff.
Pattern making steps = Block to Plan to Pattern
BLOCKS - these are basic styles made from measurements. They are used in industry as a base to
create new designs. Blocks do not have seam or hem allowances. Blocks are made in the basic garment
categories:- Body blocks, trousers, jacket and coat blocks. Also different blocks are made for woven and
jersey fabrics (stretch fabrics). Blocks are the foundation of designs. Many designers will have a
multitude of blocks that they can choose from when designing a new garment. From a fitted shirt block,
to a loose casual style of shirt block. To design you select the block which best represents the silhouette
of your new design, fitted, loose etc. Trace around the block to create your plan.
PLANS - a plan is made by tracing round your block and adding your new design details. A plan is a
map of your new style. Always keep the waistline or hipline aligned on the plan to ensure the length of
the front and back are the same. Some new design lines could overlap on the plan, using coloured
highlighter pens can make it easier for creating the pattern from the plan if the design is complex.
Plan’s are never cut up. They are used for reference in case there is any design or fitting issues once the
garment is made. Plan’s do not have seam or hem allowances. The BACK is always placed to the left of
the page, the front panel to the right. This enables the side seams to be next to each other for length
any design detailing. Written content on a plan consists of abbreviations and the grain lines and notch
marks.
PATTERNS - to make a pattern you trace off each individual garment piece adding on the seam
allowances and hem allowance. Grain lines and notches are drawn on each pattern piece. Information
and notches on pattern pieces are very important for when you sew the garment together. Also adding
on the abreviations onto each pattern piece.
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Pattern making steps = Block to Plan to Pattern EXAMPLE
Start any new design by choosing the most suitable block for your new design.
PLAN your design by tracing over the block, and marking all the new design details onto the plan.
PATTERN pieces are then taken from the plan individually and seam allowance added to each piece to
enable the design to be sewn together.
Example shows the front leg of a pair of jeans. The pattern for the front leg
is made up of 8 pieces.
Once your design is made, you can refer back to the plan to make
additional pairs of jeans, changing the design details, pocket placement
etc. This is the advantage of keeping plans, it means you do not have to
start again if a design works. On the other side, if there is a fitting issue, or
a design detail that does not work, you can refer back to the plan and make
the changes, again the plan prevents you from going back to the beginning.
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2. TROUSERS
Introduction
Men’s trousers come in two predominant shapes.
The Jeans style and the Tailored Trousers style.
The construction of the back seam and crutch line is different for both designs.
Traditionally the tailored trouser style would be worn by men in offices who sit down a lot. The
crutch line is longer which not only makes more room at the back for sitting, but also more room for
the thigh (also for sitting down a lot). Tailored trousers always used to be made of wool and lined to
the knee. Wool is a more delicate fabric than denim cottons, which jeans are made of, and therefore
enough movement needs to be added for comfort when worn.
The jeans construction adds extra into the back seat line instead of the crutch line. This creates
shaping around the bottom allowing for sitting also. This method keeps the leg slimmer and the
trousers tighter around the thigh. Traditionally jeans would have been work wear and therefore more
standing than sitting. Denim fabric, predominantly used for jeans, is also a tough strong fabric which
would stretch slightly after many times of wear.
Construction of the trouser blocks shows 3 steps –
Step 1 the basic construction,
Step 2 is jeans,
Step 3 is the tailored trousers.
The basic step 1 would not be used to make trousers and would always be adapted into the jeans or
tailored style as it does not have enough movement in it.
Modern trouser designs can use either the tailored or jeans construction method, and also adapt the
plan suit the design/customer.
Trousers Lengths
Men’s trouser lengths are measured from the inside leg in inches.
Very short shorts 4” – 10cm
Short (swimming shorts length) 8” – 20cm
Above the Knee (tailored shorts length 15” – 37.5cm
On the knee 17” – 42.5cm
High Mid calf (cargo pants style) 24” – 60cm
Ankle 34” – 85cm

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Trousers Lengths
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Trouser Block
A trouser block is the basic foundation of making trousers. It needs to have an opening, normally
centre front fly for menswear. Trousers also need to have a waist finish, either a waistband or a
facing on the inside. Mens trousers also tend to have belt loops sewn onto the waistline for a belt to
be passed through. Pockets are also common on mens trousers, from patch pockets to pockets in side
seams. The top of the basic block reaches the waistline on men (not the natural waistline which is
never used).
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Trouser Block Construction
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Trouser Block Construction
The trouser block construction INCLUDES the waistband in the block. This needs to be drawn on the
plan when creating your own designs. Begin with mapping out the essential lines of construction for the
back and front leg. The Map.
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MAP

1 – 2 WL to Seat Line 20cm
1 – 3 WL – Crutch Line 28cm
3 – 4 Crutch Line – Knee Line
Half inside leg measurement
42.5cm
4 – 5 Knee Line to hemline 42.5cm
1 – 6 Measurement is longer than crutch line 60cm
6 – 7 WL to Seat Line 20cm
6 - 8 WL – Crutch Line 28cm
8 - 9 Crutch Line – Knee Line
Half inside leg measurement
42.5cm
9 - 10 Knee Line to hemline 42.5cm

BACK

6 – 22 Centre Back crutch line 4cm
22 – 23 Raise waistline by 1cm
Join 23 to 7 with a straight line
1cm
23 – 24 Quarter waistline plus dart,
Waistline = 89cm +2cm ease = 91cm
¼ = 22.75 + dart width = 1.5cm
24.25cm
24 – 25 Half way along waistline 12.1cm
25 – 26 Dart length
Draw in dart line. 0.75cm to the left and right of the
central position of the dart. Join to point 26.
8cm
8 - 27 One fifth of thigh measurement (59cm = 11.8cm)
Two thirds on back crutch
7.8cm
9 – 28 Inside leg seam (back from line) 4cm
10 – 29 Inside leg seam
Join 28 to 29 with a straight line
** optional to reduce the hem width further for a
fitted ankle. Up to 8cm
4cm
28 – 30 One third inside leg measurement – crutch line to
knee line
14.1cm
27 – 31 Drop crutch line by 1cm 1cm
30 – 31 Draw inside leg seam with a smooth curve
Measurement must be the same as the front leg,
measure 21 to 17 and make the back leg the same
(this is why the back crutch position is dropped by
1cm (27-31)


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31 – 7 Draw centre back seam with a smooth curve. Keep
curve 4cm out from point 8

7 – 32 Quarter seat line
Seat Line 104cm +4cm ease
Join 24 to 32 with a smooth line
27cm
8 – 33 Crutch line Same as 7 – 32 27cm
9 – 34 Knee width Same as 7 – 32 27cm
10 – 35 Same as 7 – 32
Draw in outside leg seam, join 32 to 33, down to 34
and 35 on the hemline
27cm

FRONT

1 – 11 Front seam line point
Join 11 – 2 on the seat line
1cm
11 – 12 Quarter waist
(Waist 89cm + 2cm ease = 91cm) 22.75cm
22.75cm
2 – 13 Quarter seat
(Seat 104cm + 4cm ease = 108cm)
Join waistline to seat line with a smooth curve
(joining 12 to 13)
27cm
3 – 14 Crutch line, same measurement as 2-13 27cm
4 – 14 Knee line - Same measurement as 2-13 27cm
5 – 16 Hemline - Same measurement as 2-13
Draw in straight side seam by joining 13 to 14,14 and
16
27cm
3 – 17 One fifth of thigh measurement (60cm = 12cm)
One third on front crutch
(Two thirds on back crutch)
4cm
2 – 17 Join front seam line with a smooth curve
4 – 18 Inside leg seam position in from line 4cm
18 – 19 Inside leg position
Join 18 to 19 with a straight line
** optional to reduce the hem width further for a
fitted ankle. Up to 8cm
4cm
18 – 20 Half inside leg measurement from Crutch line to
Knee line
Join 17 to 20 with a smooth curved line
21.25cm

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Jeans
The jeans block has a more fitted trouser leg, which requires additional fabric placed into the centre
back seam to enable you to sit down comfortably. The average amount added into the back seam is
3cm, but this depends on the size of the wearer’s bottom. There needs to be enough fabric so when
you sit down the top edge of the jeans does not drop down too far. Jeans are traditionally full of
details - pockets, yokes, belt loops, and topstitching details. A jeans style can however be made in any
fabric, including wool which is classified as being a tailoring fabric. Generally they are seen made of
casual cotton fabrics, denim, corduory, brushed cotton etc.
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Jeans Block Construction
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Jeans Construction

1 – 2 Raise the back seat line, raising the top of the trouser block (see
diagram)
This allows extra around the bottom for sitting down, without
making the crutch any bigger.
3cm
Smooth the centre back seam
Smooth the side seam at seat line
Reduce waistline by 1cm
Plan

1 Draw a line for the waistband. 4cm down from WL, front and
back leg.

2 Move the small back dart to the side seam (measure at the
waistband edge and remove this amount from the side seam,
then do not use the dart in the leg.

3 Draw in back yoke – 7cm at CB seam and 2cm at side seam
4 Design back pocket, top edge is 2cm lower than yoke seam.
5 Draw in front pocket position, 8cm down the side seam under
the waistband. Top position is half way along the waistline.

6 Draw in the inner front pocket (right side only) Part of the
pocket is visible and part is hidden inside the pocket.

7 Draw in front fly – 3.5cm wide and finishes 2cm above the SL.
Curve at the bottom edge.

8 Extend CF edge to draw the fly back, 3.5cm wide and the same
length as the fly front.

9 Extend front waistband the width of the fly back.
10 Draw in belt loop positions – centre of front, on the front side
panel, centre of back panel and CB seam. 7 loops in total.


Jeans Plan
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Pattern
1 Back waistband – close the back dart when tracing off the waistband by
joining both sides of the dart together. CB seam is cut on fold so no seam
allowance is added. 1cm seam around all other edges. Cut 2 on fold, one
for outside and one for the inside.
2 Back yoke – add 1cm seam allowance around the top and side edge. CB and
body seam has 1.5cm seam allowance and is sewn as a flat felled seam. Cut
2. Back yokes sometimes have lining on the inside for a nice finish.
3 Back pocket – 1cm seam allowance and a 2cm double turn top edge
opening. Cut 2
4 Belt Loop is 4cm wide, folded in half then folded again and stitched. It has
a 2cm seam at the top and hem edges to fold over the waistband and sit
larger than the finished waistband to allow for a belt to go through. Belt
loops are sometimes topstitched onto the body and not caught into the
waist/body seam. Often seen with a buttonhole zig zag stitch. Cut 7 belt
loops for the waistband.
5 Back leg cut 2. This is now without the yoke or waistband. Mark drill holes
for back pocket position. Inside leg is 1.5cm seam allowance and is a flat
felled seam, the same as the CB seam and top edge which is attached to
the yoke. The outside leg seam is 1cm seam allowance. Add 2cm hem
allowance for a double turn finish
6 Front waistband – right front has the extension of 3.5cm which will connect
to the fly back. 1cm seam allowance around all edges. Cut 2
7 Left front waistband is cut 2 at the CF line. Add 1cm seam allowance
around all edges.
8 Back front pocket – mark on drill holes for the inside pocket position. 1cm
seam around all edges, cut 2
9 Front pocket lining – normally made of cotton, add 1cm seam allowance
around all edges. Cut 2.
10 Front inside pocket – add 1cm seam allowance and a 2cm double turn top
edge opening. Cut 1 and sew to the right side pocket back.
11 Fly front – add 1cm seam allowance around all edges. This is sewn into the
left front leg on the inside, cut 1
12 Fly back is cut 1 on the fold. 1cm seam allowance around all edges
13 Front leg is cut 2. Add 1cm seam allowance on the outside leg, pocket
edge, top edge and CF. Add 1.5cm seam allowance for the inside leg which
is flat felled seam. 2cm hem which is 1cm double turn finish.

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Jeans Pattern
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Tailored Trousers
Tailored trouser blocks have an increased centre back crutch seam by lowering the crutchline and
extending the thigh measurement. An additional amount is added to the centre back waistline at the
top of the seam. This style of trousers is traditional for mens suits, where the leg and back crutch seam
are looser. Compared to jeans which are more fitted style of trousers.
Tailored trousers are generally made in wool and lined to the kneeline. Pockets are normally seen in
the side seam, with one or two back tailored jet pockets. The detailing on tailored trousers is minimal
compared to jeans style of trousers. This looser leg suits wool fabrics as there is more movement than
cottons which are used in the casual jeans style of fitting.
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