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Hot-End Replacement Guide

BFB 3000 plus & 3D Touch




Pre assembly checks:
Testing the hot-end before fitting:
Check the heating cable:
Set the multi-meter to read resistance (2000 ohms)
Test the two outside pins (grey wires)
The value should read 4.5 to 5.5 ohms
Check the temperature thermistor:
Set the multi-meter to read resistance (2M ohms)
Test the inner two pins (violet wires)
The value should read approximately 200 to 300 k ohms
If at any stage the value is zero or OL, please do not continue and contact
technical support.




The X-carriage:


Removal of the motor belts and motors:
Remove any filament that may be in the nozzles by heating and pulling
Loosen the 8 screws circled in red and gently push the motors toward
the extruder bodies to loosen the belts


Unclip the extruder power loom chain by using a thin flat blade screw
driver between the top fins and pull the PTFE feed tubes back trying not
to bend them too much


Ease the wires from the acrylic plate



Disconnect the motor wires

Ease the belts over each of the large pulleys as shown, gently turning
the small pulley will help ease the belt free
With the belts removed. Supporting the motor assembly, unscrew
the 9 screws that are highlighted below.



Remove the motor plate and put to one side


Disconnect the remaining wires from under this plate and remove
the clear loom support brace, put this somewhere safe and secure
the wires away from the head assembly.




Removing the extruders:
Unscrew the 4 screws from the front of the acrylic top plate


Unscrew the 3 screws from the rear of the acrylic plate, 2 screws
also hold the small pcb.



The final 3 screws for the extruders are underneath the head
assembly


Lift the extruders off of the carriage and move the blue wire so
that it passes through one of the larger holes next to it.

Removing the Z limit sensor:
Using the 2.5mm ball driver or Allen key as shown and turn the
grub screw counter clockwise to loosen.
Caution: If this screw is accidentally tightened it will permanently
damage the sensor.

Gently pull the z sensor out and store safely

Loosen these screws using an Allen key and not the supplied ball
driver. Unscrew the 5 screws highlighted in red and loosen the M5
belt tensioning bolt highlighted in green.

Remove the belt from the belt clamp, if you wish to remove the
heads to work away from the printer, follow the same step above
on the opposite M5 bolt
Loosen the grub screw holding the belt


Unscrew the 3 screws which relate to the hot-end you are changing


Flip the steel plate over, push the centre pin on the plastic rivet and
push out as shown in the photo. However if you have new rivets you can
use these when refitting the pcb.


Refitting the hot-end:
Take your new hot-end; Push the peek tube firmly into the aluminium
nozzle, slide in the PTFE tube, and slide on the aluminium sleeve and
mdf spacer. Screw into place with the M3 x 16 screws removed from
your existing hot-end




Caution: Try not to bend or flex the wires too much as this can damage
the hot-end.


Replace the hot-end pcb and lock into place with the plastic push fit
rivets.

Note: Test all hot-end resistances before refitting extruder plate.
To refit the x carriage, follow the manual in reverse.

Pay close attention when refitting the acrylic parts as over tightening
will crack them!
When refitting the z-sensor, STOP soon as you feel light resistance
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE GRUB SCREW









Prepare the filament:
Shape the filament to a rounded point, feed it through the feed
tubes, tighten the pressure bearings and purge the nozzle

Purging the nozzle:
Move the bed down away from the heads.
Set the print temperature to 200 for PLA and 260 for ABS
Set the RPM at 45, once temperature is reached the motor will start
Leave the nozzles to purge for approximately 5 minutes

Congratulations you have completed the hot-end change