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D-1

Overall Summary of Inspection Procedures

Introduction
The factory and/or vendor are required to retain a quality control system throughout the production
process in order to maintain Charming Shoppes Inc. quality standards.

Three inspections are required to be performed by the factory/vendor; a pre-production, in-line, and
final inspection. Once the goods reach Charming Shoppes’ distribution center (DC) they will also be
inspected.

A final inspection by Charming Shoppes does not relieve the factory or vendor of their responsibilities
of conducting the required quality inspections.

This section provides a brief overview of Charming Shoppes’ Inspection Procedures for the
Distribution Center. More detailed aspects can be found in the body of this document.

Inspection System Used
All sampling and statistical aspects of the inspection process are based on Military Standard MIL105E.
Inspections are evaluated based on AQL 4.0 or 2.5 depending on the product and the circumstance of
the shipment.

Scope of Inspection
Within the MIL105E standard, the sampling plans provide several inspection levels. The sampling
plan selected by Charming Shoppes Inc. will be determined by the supplier’s performance.

Garment Measurements
Garment measuring is included in the inspection. All key measurements will be compared to the
contracted size specifications. If the key garment measurements are not within Charming Shoppes’
tolerances, the garment will fail and be considered a reject equal to a major defect.

Defects
Visual and functional defects will be evaluated using the parameters set forth in the attached
Inspection Procedures.

Labeling and Ticketing
All labels and tickets will be evaluated using the parameters set forth in Charming Shoppes’
Corporate Vendor Partnership Manualand/or the chain specific Label and Marketing Manual.

Packing and Carton Marking
All packaging and carton marking will be evaluated using the parameters set forth in the Charming
Shoppes’ Corporate Vendor Partnership Manual.

Inspection Failure
If any shipment fails to meet the requirements outlined in these procedures, you will be notified about
the failure and the outcome of the order.

If a PO fails a second inspection after being sorted or repaired by the vendor, the vendor will be
charged for the inspection @ $30.00 per hour plus $100.00 per line administration fee.

D-2






Inspection Levels



The following two pages provide sampling quantities and accept/reject levels for:


a. General Inspection Levels
Single Sampling
Double Sampling


b. Special Inspection Levels
Single Sampling
Double Sampling



The figures on these pages reflect AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) 4.0 and 2.5.


NOTE: The Double Sampling system allows for a reduced number of samples to be evaluated, but
has a stricter acceptance level. If a lot has a defect number which falls between the double sampling
accept/reject figures, a second sampling will need to be taken and the figures in ( ) will be used as the
accept/reject determination for the two sampling lots combined.


















AQL 4.0

General Inspection Levels


MIL105E INSPECTION PROCEDURES


1. Sample

I II III I II III
9 - 15 2 3 5 - - -
16 - 25 3 5 8 - - -
26 - 50 5 8 13 - - -
51 - 90 5 13 20 - 8/8 13/13
91 - 150 - 20 32 - 13/13 20/20
151 - 280 13 32 50 8/8 20/20 32/32
281 - 500 20 50 80 13/13 32/32 50/50
501 - 1,200 32 80 125 20/20 50/50 80/80
1,201 - 3,200 50 125 200 32/32 80/80 125/125
3,201 - 10,000 80 200 315 50/50 125/125 200/200
10,001 - 35,000 125 315 500 80/80 200/200 315/315
35,001 - 150,000 200 500 800 125/125 315/315 500/500
Single Sampling Double Sampling Lot Size



2. Accept/Reject

I II III
9 - 15 0/1 0/1 0/1 - - -
16 - 25 0/1 0/1 1/2 - - -
26 - 50 0/1 1/2 1/2 - - 0/2 (1/2)
51 - 90 0/1 1/2 2/3 - 0/2 (1/2) 0/3 (3/4)
91 - 150 - 2/3 3/4 - 0/3 (3/4) 1/4 (4/5)
151 - 280 1/2 3/4 5/6 0/2 (1/2) 1/4 (4/5) 2/5 (6/7)
281 - 500 2/3 5/6 7/8 0/3 (3/4) 2/5 (6/7) 3/7 (8/9)
501 - 1,200 3/4 7/8 10/11 1/4 (4/5) 3/7 (8/9) 5/9 (12/13)
1,201 - 3,200 5/6 10/11 14/15 2/5 (6/7) 5/9 (12/13) 7/11 (18/19)
3,201 - 10,000 7/8 14/15 21/22 3/7 (8/9) 7/11 (18/19) 11/16 (26/27)
10,001 - 35,000 10/11 21/22 - 5/9 (12/13) 11/16 (26/27) -
35,001 - 150,000 14/15 - - 7/11 (18/19) - -
Single Sampling Double Sampling
I II III
Lot Size


D-3
D-4



AQL 4.0


Special Inspection Levels
MIL105E INSPECTION PROCEDURES



. Sample




1
S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4 S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4
151 - 280 3 5 8 13 - - - 8/8
281 - 500 3 5 8 13 - - - 8/8
501 - 1,200 5 5 13 20 3/3 3/3 8/8 13/13
1,201 - 3,200 5 8 13 32 3/3 5/5 8/8 20/20
3,201 - 10,000 5 8 20 32 3/3 5/5 13/13 20/20
10,001 - 35,000 5 8 20 50 3/3 5/5 13/13 32/32
35,001 - 150,000 5 13 32 80 5/5 8/8 20/20 50/50
Single Sampling Double Sampling Lot Size



2. Accept/Reject

S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4 S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4
151 - 280 0/1 0/1 1/2 1/2 - - - 0/2 (1/2)
281 - 500 0/1 0/1 1/2 1/2 - - - 0/2 (1/2)
501 - 1,200 0/1 0/1 1/2 2/3 0/2 (1/2) 0/2 (1/2) 0/2 (1/2) 0/3 (3/4)
1,201 - 3,200 0/1 1/2 1/2 2/3 0/2 (1/2) 0/2 (1/2) 0/2 (1/2) 1/4 (4/5)
3,201 - 10,000 0/1 1/2 2/3 3/4 0/2 (1/2) 0/2 (1/2) 0/3 (1/2) 1/4 (4/5)
10,001 - 35,000 0/1 1/2 2/3 5/6 0/2 (1/2) 0/2 (1/2) 0/3 (1/2) 2/5 (6/7)
35,001 - 150,000 1/2 1/2 3/4 7/8 0/2 (1/2) 0/2 (1/2) 1/4 (4/5) 3/7 (8/9)
Single Sampling Double Sampling Lot Size





D-5

AQL 2.5

General Inspection Levels


MIL105E INSPECTION PROCEDURES

. Sample

Lot Size Single Sampling




1
I II III
9 - 15 2 3 5
16 - 25 3 5 8
26 - 50 5 8 13
51 - 90 5 13 20
91 - 150 8 20 32
151 - 280 13 32 50
281 - 500 20 50 80
501 - 1,200 32 80 125
1,201 - 3,200 50 125 200
3,201 - 10,000 80 200 315
10,001 - 35,000 125 315 500
35,001 - 150,000 200 500 800


2. Accept/Reject

Lot Size Single Sampling
I II III
9 - 15 0/1 0/1 0/1
16 - 25 0/1 0/1 0/1
26 - 50 0/1 0/1 1/2
51 - 90 0/1 1/2 1/2
91 - 150 0/1 1/2 2/3
151 - 280 1/2 2/3 3/4
281 - 500 1/2 3/4 5/6
501 - 1,200 2/3 5/6 7/8
1,201 - 3,200 3/4 7/8 10/11
3,201 - 10,000 5/6 10/11 14/15
10,001 - 35,000 7/8 14/15 21/22
35,001 - 150,000 10/11 21/22 21/22


D-6

AQL 2.5

Special Inspection Levels
MIL105E INSPECTION PROCEDURES

. Sample

Lot Size Single S ling




1
amp
I II III IIII
9 - 15 2 2 2 2
16 - 25 2 2 3 3
26 - 50 2 3 3 5
51 - 90 3 3 5 5
91 - 150 3 3 5 8
151 - 280 3 5 8 13
281 - 500 3 5 8 13
501 - 1,200 5 5 13 20
1,201 - 3,200 5 8 20 32
3,201 - 10,000 5 8 20 32
10,001 - 35,000 5 8 20 50
35,001 - 150,000 8 13 32 80


2. Accept/Reject

Lot Size Single Samp

ling
I II III IIII
9 - 15 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1
16 - 25 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1
26 - 50 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1
51 - 90 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1
91 - 150 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1
151 - 280 0/1 0/1 0/1 1/2
281 - 500 0/1 0/1 0/1 1/2
501 - 1,200 0/1 0/1 1/2 1/2
1,201 - 3,200 0/1 0/1 1/2 2/3
3,201 - 10,000 0/1 0/1 1/2 2/3
10,001 - 35,000 0/1 0/1 1/2 3/4
35,001 - 150,000 0/1 1/2 2/3 5/6



Garment Measurements

The inspection procedure will include measuring of garments in order to verify adherence to the size
specifications. The following guidelines will be used to ensure that production measures according to
specifications when an initial inspection determines there is a measurement discrepancy.

1. Quantity to be measured
Single Color
Shipments
Multiple Color
Shipments
51 - 90
1 1 each color
91 - 150
1 1 each color
151 - 280
1 1 each color
281 - 500
1 1 each color
501 - 1,200 5 5 each color
1,201 - 3,200 10 5 each color
3,201 - 10,000 15 10 each color
10,001 - 35,000 20 10 each color
35,001 - 150,000 25 10 each color
Lot Size
(per size, per color)
Minimum Quantity to be Measured



2. Measurement Acceptance
Charming Shoppes sizing tolerances will be used to determine measurement defects. One
location out of tolerance will be considered a major defect. For garments with more than one
location out of tolerance, this will be counted by garment; i.e., one defect regardless of the
number of areas out of tolerance.

3. Measurement Problems
If measurement problems are found additional samples will be measured in order to gather
more data regarding the scope of the problem.








D-7
D-8



Product Defects


Defects are categorized as major or minor depending on the severity. To determine whether a
defect is major or minor, the following factors will be considered:


Whether the defect will render the item unsalable.

The conspicuousness of the defect.

The location of the defect on the item.


The following pages provide a list of major and minor defects in addition to diagrams showing
“A,” “B,” “C” zones for apparel. A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect
in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “C” zone, and will
be categorized accordingly.


Critical Defects

A critical defect is a defect that judgment and experience indicate is likely to result in
hazardous or unsafe conditions for the individuals using or maintaining the item.

The following are examples of "critical" defects. If there are any critical defects found
during inspection the shipment will fail and further statistical sampling will be conducted
to determine the extent of the issue.

- Neck Stretched - under the minimum neck stretched measurement of 24".

- Waist Stretched - for pull-on bottoms with no engineered opening (snaps, zippers).
The circumference measurement must be equal to, or bigger than the low hip
measurement of the intended size.

- Exposed Sharp Surfaces – for items with stone/studs attached to the garment by using
prongs, items must be thoroughly checked to make sure no sharp points are exposed.
Front and back of garment where the stones/studs are attached must be checked
carefully.







D-9
Major and Minor Defects for Apparel


Major Defect – A defect sufficient to render the merchandise second quality or unacceptable because
it is conspicuous and/or may affect the saleability or performance and/or is a significant deviation from
the established specification.

Minor Defect – A defect that is not likely to affect the saleabilty or performance and/or is beyond the
defined quality standard.

Defect
Major Minor
1. Material Defects & Damages
a. Rips, holes or cuts on any part of the product x
b. Runs and dropped stitches (knits) x
c. Snags & pulls x
d. Slubs more than ¼” at critical zone, or ½” at non-critical zone x
e. Slubs less than ¼” at critical zone, or ½” at non-critical zone x
f. Needle chew resulting in fabric weakness x
g. Permanent creases on fabric x
h. Bowing/skewing on plain fabrics more than 1” per garment width or length x
i. Bowing/skewing on plain fabrics up to 1” per garment width or length x
j. Bowing/skewing on striped fabrics more than ½” per garment width or length x
k. Bowing/skewing on striped fabrics up to ½” per garment width or length x
l. Nap &/or pile deformation x
m. Undesirable odor x

2. Shading Defects
a. Shade/color match on part to part against standard worse than rating 5 on
AATCC grayscale x
b. Shade/color match of garment fabric & trim against standard worse than rating
4-5 on AATCC grayscale x
c. Dye streaks & barre marks noticeable from 15” distance at critical zone x
d. Dye streaks & barre marks no noticeable from 15” distance at critical zone x

3. Cleanliness
a. Spots, stains & soil marks larger than 1/8” diameter x
b. Spots, stains & soil marks less than 1/8” diameter x
c. Multiple thread ends not trimmed x
d. Excessive fly &/or contamination on the garment as per QC judgment x

4. Component Parts & Assembly
a. Missing parts x
b. Missing operation x
c. Operations no done per approved sample and product specification x
d. Any non-conforming component affecting appearance and serviceability x
e. Any component part twisted, distorted, pleated, tight or full, unless specified x
f. Misalignment of parts, pockets, flaps, trims, etc. more than ¼” x
g. Inconsistent nap direction if specified x
D-10
Major and Minor Defects for Apparel

Defect
Major Minor

5. Seams and Stitching

Open Seams: A seam shall be considered open when one or more stitches joining
a seam are broken, or two or more successive skipped lock stitches occur.

a. Open seam ¼” or more x
b. Skipped chain stitch x
c. Incomplete seam (two or more stitches) x
d. Double stitching gap 1/8” or over x
e. Needle holes x
f. Part of a garment caught in unrelated seam or operation, distorting fit/appearance x
g. Seams twisted, puckered or pleated, affecting appearance x
h. Improper stitch tension (to loose or tight) that affects appearance x
i. Ends of stitching not backstitched, tied in, or securely caught in other seams
or stitching x
j. Raw edges (other tan specified) outside x
k. Gauge or edge stitching irregular; i.e., unevenly gauged, affecting appearance x
l. Conspicuous repairs x
m. Piecing/joining of binding &/or trims on critical zone of garments x
n. Monofilament yarn being used as a sewing thread in any type of stitching x


6. Pressing
a. Burned or scorched x
b. Overpressed to leave seam impression or deforming surface effect on the
garment x
c. Stretched or distorted during pressing x
d. Excessive wrinkles that require pressing x
e. Evident shine caused by improper pressing x


7. Labels, Hangtags, Emblems & Embroidery
a. Missing or wrong tags, hangtags, price tags, etc. x
b. Hangtags insecurely attached or misplaced x
c. Wrong main or legal label attached x
d. Label attached more than 3/8” beyond specified location x
e. Label sewn with monofilament yarn x
f. Label sewing thread does not match color x
g. Label sewing seam uneven, puckered and 1/8” or more away from label edge x
h. Harsh and stiff label compared to approved sample x
i. Label omitted or insecurely attached x
j. Emblems omitted or wrongly placed x

D-11
Major and Minor Defects for Apparel

Defect
Major Minor

7. Labels, Hangtags, Emblems & Embroidery (cont.)
k. Emblems attached without a cam, not following the contour of the emblem x
l. Emblems attached crooked x
m. Label sewn beyond label edge x
n. Bobbin & needle thread color not matching fabric and label or emblem
color respectively x
o. Care instructions do not meet U.S. legal requirements x
p. Fiber label does not meet U.S. Textile Fiber Products Labeling Act x


8. Pockets
a. Not in specified location by more than ¼” x
b. Shaped poorly x
c. Set or sewn crooked x
d. Not or specified size and shape; size in excess of ¼” x
e. Edge margin of stitching not uniform x
f. Flaps not properly placed x
g. Puckers at the flap joins x
h. Slanted pocket flaps (not per specification) x


9. Collar and Cuffs
a. Fullness or puckers at collar attachment x
b. Collar points not uniform and balanced x
c. Conspicuous puckers on collar joining x
d. Misaligned, crooked collar setting more than 3/16” x
e. Misaligned, crooked collar setting less than 3/16” x
f. Puckered and/or crooked top stitching x
g. Pleated &/or puckered cuffs at sleeve joint in woven cuff x
h. Fullness or twist of cuff affecting appearance x
i. Misaligned cuffs at bottom x
j. Rib collar or cuffs set too tight, so do not have enough stretch x
k. Neck opening does not meet the minimum neck stretched x


10. Plackets
a. Top and bottom placket length not equal:
Top not covering bottom x
Top ¼” longer than bottom x
Top over ¼” longer than bottom x
b. Dimple at the bottom of placket easily visible within 3 feet x
c. Unbalanced and crooked placket top stitch x
d. Top placket not covering up bottom placket by more than 1/8” for shirts
and 3/16” for sweaters x
D-12
Major and Minor Defects for Apparel

Defect
Major Minor
11. Closures
a. Buttons missing and/or damaged x
b. Buttons misplaced and/or misaligned, causing poor appearance and distortion x
c. Buttons not sewn securely (easily pulled off) x
d. Buttons not as specified size, type or color x
e. Buttonholes omitted or added x
f. Buttonholes uncut x
g. Buttonholes misplaced or not aligned as specified, causing bad appearance x
h. Buttonholes not sewn securely (unravel easily) x
i. Defective snaps or fasteners that do not function x
j. Misalignment of fasteners, causing bad appearance x
k. Snaps and grommets that are not properly set x
l. Snaps that do not fasten properly and/or release very easily x
m. Improper zipper setting, causing wavy appearance x
n. Wrong size, type, color zipper x
o. Defective zipper sliders x
p. Defective zipper stops on open front jackets x
q. Tight clearance between the slider and the seam edge causing slider to
operate with difficulty x
r. Rivets not properly and securely set x
s. Rivets with rough edges x


12. Stripes, Checks & Piping Matches
a. Stripes not matched as specified:
up to ¼” x
over ¼” x

13. Finishing and Hand
a. Permanent wrinkles and/or deformation on the garment x
b. Pressed poorly or not pressed at all x
c. Overpressed and/or improperly finished to deform shapes, designs or
patterns on the fabric surface x

14. Folding and Packaging
Not as specified per product spec and/or Vendor Partnership Manual
x

15. Measurements
Any measurement beyond specified tolerances per product specification sheet x

16. Design and Colorway
Not according to approved sample or specification x

17. Fit/Balance
D-13
Beyond specification tolerance x
Major and Minor Defects for Apparel

Defect
Major Minor

18. Weight/Yield
Beyond specification tolerance x

19. Gauge
Knitted on different gauge machine than specified gauge x

20. Shipping Carton Mark
Wrong and/or incomplete shipping carton markings x




Note:
* Any MAJ OR defect makes a garment unacceptable
* Two or more MINOR defects in a critical zone make a garment unacceptable
* Four or more MINOR defects, regardless of location, make a garment unacceptable







A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is
considered more serious than a defect in “C” zone.
D-14



A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is
considered more serious than a defect in “C” zone.
D-15




A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is
considered more serious than a defect in “C” zone.

D-16


A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is
considered more serious than a defect in “C” zone.
D-17



A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is
considered more serious than a defect in “C” zone.
D-18
D-19
Major and Minor Defects for Footwear


Defect Classification List
Critical Major Minor
21. Material Defects
a. Non-confirming color x x
b. Holes x
c. Leather defect x x
d. Woven fabric defect x
e. Substitute material x
f. Thickness of material not as specified x x
g. Non-conforming leather grain x x
h. Material yellowing x

22. Cleanliness
a. Dirt x x
b. Stain mark x x
c. Untrimmed threads x
d. Loose thread x x

23. Appearance
a. Color shade variation x x
b. Wrinkle mark x
c. Lasting crooked x x
d. Damaged upper/lining x x
e. High/low back x
f. Leather/fabric grain variation x x
g. Color bleeding – components and/or accessories x
h. Excessive toe spring or not enough toe spring x x
i. Twisted outsole x
j. Sockliner not properly inserted into shoe x x
k. Sockliner incorrect size for shoe x
l. Sockliner missing x
m. Poor adhesive causes separation of sockliner layers x
n. Uneven sprayed edge x x
o. Nap/fabric direction mismatched within a pair x x
p. Hairy edge x x
q. Rocking sole x x
r. Different length on upper x x
s. Loose or uneven welting on sole edge x x
t. Start/stop point of sole edge welting not at inside quarter x x
u. Toe/counter chemical sheet is too soft x x
v. Uneven top line x x
w. Holes not punched properly x x
x. Different width of tape/strap folding x
y. Blooming outsole x
z. High roughing x x

D-20
Major and Minor Defects for Footwear


Critical Major Minor
24. Stitching Defects
a. Broken stitches x
b. Skipped stitches x x
c. Run-off stitching x x
d. Uneven stitching x x
e. Wavy stitching x x
f. Insecure back stitching x
g. Loose stitch tension x x
h. Missing stitches x
i. Unmatched join seam x x
j. Needle chews/cuts x x
k. Excessive start/stop stitches x x
l. Lining sponge drop because of poor placement or delasting x x
m. Poor stitching tension x x
n. No bottom stitch x


25. Seaming Defects
a. Open seam x
b. Puckered seam x x
c. Pleated seam x
d. Twisted seam x
e. Puckering x
f. Frayed edges x
g. Misaligned seam x
h. Misplaced backtrack x


26. Accessories and Trimmings
a. Scratches x
b. Poor plating x
c. Sharp points/edge x
d. Rust/corrosion x x
e. Wrong type x
f. Color discharge on accessories only x
g. Zipper malfunction x
h. Zipper defect x
i. Missing beads, sequins, faux stones, ornaments x
j. Detached ornament x
k. Misplaced ornament x x
l. Poor ornament fit x
m. Deformed ornament x
n. Press studs difficult to fasten x
o. Poor sewing of decorative trim x x

D-21
Major and Minor Defects for Footwear


Critical Major Minor
Accessories and Trimmings (continued)

p. Misplaced decorative trim x x
q. Poor fit of decorative trim x
r. Missing elastic band x
s. Wrong placement of elastic band x
t. Wrong width of elastic band x
u. Lasting tape on gore not removed, preventing function of elastic x
v. Elastic without sufficient memory x
w. Under cured rubber x x
x. Color bleeding on back of rubber x x
y. Poor trimming of rubber/phylon x
z. Blooming outsole x
aa. Yellowing rubber/phylon x x
bb. Stain on PVC tile for non-marking rubber sole x
cc. Holes (other than pin holes to pop gas bubbles) x x
dd. Shrinkage of plylon (EVA) x x
ee. Air hole or cuts on EVA x x
ff. Rebounding phylon (EVA) edge x
gg. Contour in footbed poorly formed x x
hh. Bubbles on PU cosmetic x x
ii. Void on PU x x
jj. Plating of metal accessories coming off x x
kk. Poor top lift setting x x


27. Assembly
a. Folds in the lining x
b. Backers over thickness x
c. Twisted uppers x
d. Torn or cracked upper x
e. Cup between sole and upper x
f. Sole and upper of different sizes x
g. Poorly assembled soles x x
h. Deformed shape of sole x
i. Heel covering poorly fitted x
j. Strap too short x
k. Protruding nails or pins x
l. Peeling x
m. Air bubbles at plastic label x x
n. Sloping/slanted back counter x x
o. Poor lasting x
p. Loose foxing x
q. Poor adhesive between upper and outsole x x
r. Poor cupsole stitch x x
D-22
Major and Minor Defects for Footwear


Critical Major Minor
Assembly (continued)
s. Insole pattern board torn and folded x
t. Counter not active x x
u. Over cement x x
v. Counter/lining not under inner-sole board x
w. Shoe lace length different within a pair x x
x. Back counter height different within a pair x x
y. Toe thong length different within a pair x x

Note:
* Any MAJ OR defect makes an item unacceptable
* Two or more MINOR defects in a critical zone make an item unacceptable
* Four or more MINOR defects, regardless of location, make an item unacceptable

1
Revised 4/2012
CHARMING SHOPPES APPAREL INSPECTION STANDARD OPERATING
PROCEDURE FOR THIRD PARTY INSPECTION PROVIDERS
Apparel Inspection Request Procedures

1. Vendor / Supplier / Factory will contact the third party inspection company via email a minimum of two
weeks prior to the desired inspection date, referencing the Charming Shoppes Purchase Order Number.
2. Supplier will schedule inspection date with the third party inspection company to take place on the
estimated 100% completion date.
3. Inspection will be done following Charming Shoppes Inc. Inspection Procedures.
4. Upon arrival at factory, Inspector will have available to them an inspection package* to be used during
inspection, which will include the following:
a. Copy of Charming Shoppes Purchase Order (P.O.)
b. Approved reference sample
c. Charming Shoppes measurement specifications in PLM or WebPDM format
d. Approved color swatch
* If package is not available at the factory on the day of inspection, inspection must be aborted and
rescheduled. Suppliers are responsible for all costs and expenses on aborted inspections.

Inspection Charges

• Charming Shoppes’ nominated inspection providers offer Standard Average Rates by region.
• Man-day charges should be based on actual inspection time only.
• Under normal circumstances a minimum of 200 units should be inspected per man-day. Exceptions
must be confirmed and approved by Charming Shoppes QA/QC Department prior to the inspection.
• For Charming Shoppes-paid inspections, travel and expenses are compensated.
• Travel time and report writing should not be included in the man-day.

Apparel Inspection Criteria

Inspections are to be conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQC ZI.4-2008 (formally MIL-STD 105E), Normal
Inspection, General Level II. The AQL level is 2.5. Major and minor defects should be listed on a chart to
provide a clear overview of quality; cumulative major defects can be listed adding in minor defects. 4 minor
defects =1 major defect. To allow Charming Shoppes QC to analyze the inspection data effectively, the zone
where the defect is located should be listed on the report along with the photo reference if applicable.

If multiple colors are inspected at one time, inspector must advise how many of each color were
inspected. Defects must be listed by color on the inspection report. If the number of defects found in
one color are equal to or greater than 50% of the number of units needed to fail the shipment, additional
units of that color must be inspected based on the lot size of the color.

Example:
• Shipment size is 2,700 units – 900 units of each color – blue, green and white.
• 125 units inspected across 3 colors – 41 units of blue, 42 units of green and 42 units of white.
• Pass/fail ratio is 7/8.
• 6 defects are found; 4 of the defects are in the green color.
• 4 defects equals 50% of the number of defects needed to fail the shipment; therefore, additional units
will need to be inspected.
• Based on the lot size of the green, the new sampling size for this color is 80 units (pass/fail =5/6).
Since 42 units were inspected, the inspector will need to pull an additional 38 units from cartons that
were not included in the initial sampling.

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Revised 4/2012
• While inspecting the additional 38 garments, at the point where 2 major defects are found the inspector
can stop inspecting and consider this color failed. Samples showing the worst defects and the most
common defect found during inspection must be sent to Charming Shoppes QA/QC at the supplier’s
expense.
• If only 1 defective garment is found after inspecting the 38 additional garments, the shipment can pass.


Final Random Inspection (FRI)

The Vendor / Supplier / Factory will contact the third party inspection company via email a minimum of two
weeks prior to the desired inspection date, referencing the Charming Shoppes Purchase Order Number. At the
time of inspection, goods must be 100% complete with a minimum of 80% of the shipment packed. It is
recommended that the inspection date is scheduled far enough in advance of the ship date to accommodate
corrective action if the shipment fails inspection and to allow review and approval by Charming Shoppes.
Samples are selected at random by the inspector. Inspection results are to be reviewed with the factory
manager upon completion. The factory may not ship until the report is reviewed by the Charming Shoppes QC
team and a release is transmitted. Copies of the inspection report must be emailed to the following Charming
Shoppes QC team within 24 hours of completion of the inspection.

sandra.furia@charming.com
matthew.berry@charming.com
leah.socker@charming.com


Re-inspection

In the event of a failure the manufacturer will be required to sort the complete shipment and notify the inspection
company as well as Charming Shoppes QC Department when re-inspection can take place. For inspection
continuity, the same third party inspection service must be used for the re-inspection. The previous FRI report
must be available to the inspector prior to the re-inspection. Failed reports are to be transmitted via email to
Sandra Furia, Matthew Berry and Leah Socker of Charming Shoppes within 24 hours after completion of
inspection, with notification that a re-inspection is anticipated. A soft copy of the failed report will be left at the
factory. Re-inspection will be conducted exactly as if it were an FRI. Suppliers are responsible for all re-
inspection fees.

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Revised 4/2012
Garment Measurements

The inspection procedure will include measuring a minimum of 3 garments per size per color in order to verify
size specifications. The Charming Shoppes PLM or WebPDM measurement specifications must be used to
verify measurements.

The following guideline is to be used for the total samples to be measured if any of the original 3
garments per size per color are found to be out of tolerance.
• Only the points of measure that were found to be out of tolerance need to be measured. Each
size must be measured, not just the sizes that had problem.
• If the inspection includes multiple colors and problems were found in one color, the single color
shipment chart must be followed since only the color with the measurement discrepancies will
need to be measured.


Lot Size Total Quantity to be Measured
(per size, per color)

Single Color Multiple Color
Shipments Shipments

501 – 1,200 5 5 within each color
1,201 - 3,200 10 5 within each color
3,201 - 10,000 15 10 within each color
10,001 - 35,000 20 10 within each color
35,001 - 150,000 25 10 within each color


Measurement Example:
• Shipment size is 2,400 units – 1,200 units of blue and 1,200 units of green.
• 3 units of each size and color are measured. Size range is 0X through 4X.
• Out of tolerance measurements were found in the size 1X blue at the bust and in the 3X blue at the
sweep.
• 2 additional pieces of each size (0X through 4X) in the blue color must be measured at the bust and
sweep.
• Since issues were not found in the green color, this is considered passed in terms of measurements.
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Revised 4/2012


Key points of measure are listed below. Additional points of measure may be needed based on the style.
For example, belt length would be required on belted styles.

Tops:
Neck Width
Neck Depth
Across Shoulder
Chest
Bottom Opening / Sweep
Length – Front and Back
Sleeve Length
Armhole
Cuff Opening
Neck Stretch

Bottoms:
Waist – relaxed and stretched if elastic
High Hip
Low Hip
Front Rise
Back Rise
Thigh
Inseam
Leg Opening / Sweep
Dresses:
Length – Front and Back
Chest
Waist
Hip
Sweep
Sleeve Length
Armhole

Jacket / Blazer / Vest:
Length – Front and Back
Chest
Bottom Opening
Shoulder
Sleeve Length
Armhole



Measurement Acceptance

• Charming Shoppes, Inc. measurement tolerances (refer to spec sheet) will be used to determine
measurement defects.
• For garments with more than one location out of tolerance, this will be counted by garment; i.e., one
defect regardless of the number of areas out of tolerance.
• Measurement discrepancies should be evaluated separately from visual or functional defects;
therefore, measurements out of tolerance should not be included in the workmanship defect
count.
• Determine the percent of garments out of tolerance compared to the number of garments
measured. If it is greater than 5%, the shipment must be failed. For example: if 50 garments are
measured and 6 are out of tolerance, the shipment should be failed since 12% of the garments
measured are out of tolerance.
• Samples of the garments with measurement issues must be sent to the Charming Shoppes’ QC
Department for review, at the supplier’s expense.


Measurement Sheets

• A copy of the Charming Shoppes measurement specification sheet in the PLM or WebPDM format must
accompany the measurement data in the final inspection report.
• Measurement sheets must be legible with the measurement obtained and complete with all sizes. Do
not place a checkmark if the measurement meets the required spec.
• Color name should be listed on the measurement sheet.
• Any measurements found to be out of tolerance, must be circled on measurement sheets.

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Revised 4/2012
Garment / Fabric Defects

Defects are categorized as major or minor depending on the severity. To determine whether a defect is major
or minor, the following factors will be considered:

• Whether the defect will render the item unsaleable.

• The severity of the defect.

• The location of the defect on the item.

Photos with notes detailing the defect and an arrow pointing to the defect must be taken and submitted with the
inspection report. The photo should be assigned a reference number; these numbers should be listed on the
inspection report in the workmanship defect chart.

The photos should clearly depict all defects identified in the report. If multiple garments are found with
the same type of defect we do not need photos of each garment, with the exception of cases when there
is a variance in the severity of a specific defect. In these cases, multiple photos should be taken to aid
in the classification of the defect range.

Example:
Skipped stitches are found on 3 garments -
1 garment has 4 skipped stitches in a row
2 garments each have 1 skipped stitch
We will need a total of 2 photos showing the range of skipped stitches found -
1 photo showing the garment with 4 skipped stitches
1 photo of a garment with 1 skipped stitch.

Sealed samples of the worst defects must be sent to Charming Shoppes’ QC Department for review, at the
expense of the supplier.


Labels

Garment labels should be compared to the reference sample. The name on the main label along with the care
instructions and the fiber content must be listed on the report.


Price Tickets

The price tickets on each piece inspected must be checked to confirm the information matches the information
on the PO. Within the same color and style the information printed on each ticket should be the same. If
different tickets are found within a shipment, the inspection cannot be passed.

Price tickets do not need to be scanned; only a visual inspection is required to determine whether the
information is legible and the barcode is intact.


Cartons

Carton numbers must be recorded on the inspection report. If the cartons are not numbered, this must be
indicated on the inspection report.


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Revised 4/2012
The following pages provide a list of major and minor apparel defects in addition to diagrams showing “A”, “B”,
“C” zones. A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone, a defect in “B” zone is
considered more serious than a defect in “C” zone, and will be categorized accordingly.

• Any MAJOR defect makes a garment unacceptable.

• Two or more MINOR defects in a critical zone should be listed as a major defect on the
inspection report.

• Four or more MINOR defects, regardless of location, should be listed as a major defect on the
inspection report.


Critical Defects

The following are considered “critical” defects. If there are any critical defects found during inspection the
shipment will be failed and further statistical sample will be conducted to determine the extent of the issue.

• Neck Stretch – under the minimum neck stretched measurement of 24”.

• Waist Stretch – for pull-on bottoms with no engineered opening (snaps, zippers). The circumference
measurement must be equal to, or bigger than low hip measurement of the intended size.

• Exposed Sharp Point / Edges – for items with stones / studs attached to garments by using prongs,
garments must be thoroughly checked to ensure that no sharp points are exposed. Garments must be
fully checked inside and out, front and back.
7
Revised 4/2012


Major and Minor Defects for Apparel


Major Defect – A defect sufficient to render the merchandise second quality or unacceptable because it is
conspicuous and/or may affect the saleability or performance and/or is a significant deviation from the
established specification.

Minor Defect – A defect that is not likely to affect the saleabilty or performance and/or is beyond the defined
quality standard.

Defect
Major Minor
Material Defects & Damages
a. Rips, holes or cuts on any part of the product x
b. Runs and dropped stitches (knits) x
c. Snags & pulls x
d. Slubs more than ¼” at critical zone, or ½” at non-critical zone x
e. Slubs less than ¼” at critical zone, or ½” at non-critical zone x
f. Needle chew resulting in fabric weakness x
g. Permanent creases on fabric x
h. Bowing/skewing on plain fabrics more than 1” per garment width or length x
i. Bowing/skewing on plain fabrics up to 1” per garment width or length x
j. Bowing/skewing on striped fabrics more than ½” per garment width or length x
k. Bowing/skewing on striped fabrics up to ½” per garment width or length x
l. Nap &/or pile deformation x
m. Undesirable odor x

2. Shading Defects
a. Shade/color match on part to part against standard worse than rating 5 on
AATCC grayscale x
b. Shade/color match of garment fabric & trim against standard worse than rating
4-5 on AATCC grayscale x
c. Dye streaks & barre marks noticeable from 15” distance at critical zone x
d. Dye streaks & barre marks no noticeable from 15” distance at critical zone x


3. Cleanliness
a. Spots, stains & soil marks larger than 1/8” diameter x
b. Spots, stains & soil marks less than 1/8” diameter x
c. Multiple thread ends not trimmed x
d. Excessive fly &/or contamination on the garment as per QC judgment x


4. Component Parts & Assembly
a. Missing parts x
b. Missing operation x
c. Operations no done per approved sample and product specification x
d. Any non-conforming component affecting appearance and serviceability x
e. Any component part twisted, distorted, pleated, tight or full, unless specified x
f. Misalignment of parts, pockets, flaps, trims, etc. more than ¼” x
g. Inconsistent nap direction if specified x

8
Revised 4/2012

Major Minor

5. Seams and Stitching

Open Seams: A seam shall be considered open when one or more stitches joining
a seam are broken, or two or more successive skipped lock stitches occur.

a. Open seam ¼” or more x
b. Skipped chain stitch x
c. Incomplete seam (two or more stitches) x
d. Double stitching gap 1/8” or over x
e. Needle holes x
f. Part of a garment caught in unrelated seam or operation, distorting fit/appearance x
g. Seams twisted, puckered or pleated, affecting appearance x
h. Improper stitch tension (to loose or tight) that affects appearance x
i. Ends of stitching not backstitched, tied in, or securely caught in other seams
or stitching x
j. Raw edges (other tan specified) outside x
k. Gauge or edge stitching irregular; i.e., unevenly gauged, affecting appearance x
l. Conspicuous repairs x
m. Piecing/joining of binding &/or trims on critical zone of garments x
n. Monofilament yarn being used as a sewing thread in any type of stitching x


6. Pressing
a. Burned or scorched x
b. Overpressed to leave seam impression or deforming surface effect on the
garment x
c. Stretched or distorted during pressing x
d. Excessive wrinkles that require pressing x
e. Evident shine caused by improper pressing x


7. Labels, Hangtags, Emblems & Embroidery
a. Missing or wrong tags, hangtags, price tags, etc. x
b. Hangtags insecurely attached or misplaced x
c. Wrong main or legal label attached x
d. Label attached more than 3/8” beyond specified location x
e. Label sewn with monofilament yarn x
f. Label sewing thread does not match color x
g. Label sewing seam uneven, puckered and 1/8” or more away from label edge x
h. Harsh and stiff label compared to approved sample x
i. Label omitted or insecurely attached x
j. Emblems omitted or wrongly placed x


7. Labels, Hangtags, Emblems & Embroidery (cont.)
k. Emblems attached without a cam, not following the contour of the emblem x
l. Emblems attached crooked x
m. Label sewn beyond label edge x
n. Bobbin & needle thread color not matching fabric and label or emblem
color respectively x
o. Care instructions do not meet U.S. legal requirements x
p. Fiber label does not meet U.S. Textile Fiber Products Labeling Act x

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Revised 4/2012
Major Minor
8. Pockets
a. Not in specified location by more than ¼” x
b. Shaped poorly x
c. Set or sewn crooked x
d. Not or specified size and shape; size in excess of ¼” x
e. Edge margin of stitching not uniform x
f. Flaps not properly placed x
g. Puckers at the flap joins x
h. Slanted pocket flaps (not per specification) x


9. Collar and Cuffs
a. Fullness or puckers at collar attachment x
b. Collar points not uniform and balanced x
c. Conspicuous puckers on collar joining x
d. Misaligned, crooked collar setting more than 3/16” x
e. Misaligned, crooked collar setting less than 3/16” x
f. Puckered and/or crooked top stitching x
g. Pleated &/or puckered cuffs at sleeve joint in woven cuff x
h. Fullness or twist of cuff affecting appearance x
i. Misaligned cuffs at bottom x
j. Rib collar or cuffs set too tight, so do not have enough stretch x
k. Neck opening does not meet the minimum neck stretched x

10. Plackets
a. Top and bottom placket length not equal:
Top not covering bottom x
Top ¼” longer than bottom x
Top over ¼” longer than bottom x
b. Dimple at the bottom of placket easily visible within 3 feet x
c. Unbalanced and crooked placket top stitch x
d. Top placket not covering up bottom placket by more than 1/8” for shirts
and 3/16” for sweaters x

11. Closures
a. Buttons missing and/or damaged x
b. Buttons misplaced and/or misaligned, causing poor appearance and distortion x
c. Buttons not sewn securely (easily pulled off) x
d. Buttons not as specified size, type or color x
e. Buttonholes omitted or added x
f. Buttonholes uncut x
g. Buttonholes misplaced or not aligned as specified, causing bad appearance x
h. Buttonholes not sewn securely (unravel easily) x
i. Defective snaps or fasteners that do not function x
j. Misalignment of fasteners, causing bad appearance x
k. Snaps and grommets that are not properly set x
l. Snaps that do not fasten properly and/or release very easily x
m. Improper zipper setting, causing wavy appearance x
n. Wrong size, type, color zipper x
o. Defective zipper sliders x
p. Defective zipper stops on open front jackets x
q. Tight clearance between the slider and the seam edge causing slider to
operate with difficulty x
r. Rivets not properly and securely set x
s. Rivets with rough edges x
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Revised 4/2012
Major Minor
12. Stripes, Checks & Piping Matches
a. Stripes not matched as specified:
up to ¼” x
over ¼” x

13. Finishing and Hand
a. Permanent wrinkles and/or deformation on the garment x
b. Pressed poorly or not pressed at all x
c. Overpressed and/or improperly finished to deform shapes, designs or
patterns on the fabric surface x

14. Folding and Packaging
Not as specified per product spec and/or Routing Guide x

15. Measurements
Any measurement beyond specified tolerances per product specification sheet x

16. Design and Colorway
Not according to approved sample or specification x

17. Fit/Balance
Beyond specification tolerance x

18. Weight/Yield
Beyond specification tolerance x

19. Gauge
Knitted on different gauge machine than specified gauge x

20. Shipping Carton Mark
Wrong and/or incomplete shipping carton markings x

Note:
* Any MAJ OR defect makes a garment unacceptable
* Two or more MINOR defects in a critical zone make a garment unacceptable
* Four or more MINOR defects, regardless of location, make a garment unacceptable




11
Revised 4/2012

A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is considered
more serious than a defect in “C” zone.
12
Revised 4/2012

A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is considered
more serious than a defect in “C” zone.
13
Revised 4/2012


A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is considered
more serious than a defect in “C” zone.
14
Revised 4/2012

A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is considered
more serious than a defect in “C” zone.
15
Revised 4/2012

A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone. A defect in “B” zone is considered
more serious than a defect in “C” zone.



16
Revised 4/2012
Key Contacts

Sandra Furia Matthew Berry
Vice President, QA/QC Director, QA/Testing
450 Winks Lane 3344 Morse Crossing Road
Bensalem, PA 19020 Columbus, OH 43219
(p) 215-638-6920 (p) 614-463-5523
sandra.furia@charming.com matthew.berry@charming.com


Leah Socker
Manager, QA/QC
450 Winks Lane
Bensalem, PA 19020
(p) 215-638-6929
leah.socker@charming.com


1
Revised 4/2012
CHARMING SHOPPES FOOTWEAR INSPECTION STANDARD OPERATING
PROCEDURE

Footwear Inspection Request Procedures

1. Vendor / Supplier / Factory will contact the third party inspection company via email a minimum of two
weeks prior to the desired inspection date, referencing the Charming Shoppes Purchase Order Number.
2. Supplier will schedule inspection date with the third party inspection company to take place on the
estimated 100% completion date.
3. Inspection will be done following Charming Shoppes Inc. Inspection Procedures.
4. Upon arrival at factory, Inspector will have available to them an inspection package to be used during
inspection, which will include the following:
a. Footwear Inspection Summary Sheet
• General information
• Photo of shoe to be inspected
• Charming Shoppes purchase order number
• Total quantities for each purchase order
• Label information
• Comments
b. Purchase Orders - The inspector should obtain the following information from the purchase
orders:
• Charming Shoppes purchase order number
• Style number
• Style name
• Colors included in purchase order
• Total quantities
c. Approval Sample (1/2 pair) – The sample is the approved construction. Samples will be
provided by the vendor.
d. Packing Carton Standards


* Inspector must check that the package is available prior to inspection. If package is not available at
the factory on the day of inspection, inspection must be aborted and rescheduled. Suppliers are
responsible for all costs and expenses on aborted inspections.


Inspection Charges

• Charming Shoppes’ nominated inspection providers offer Standard Average Rates by region.
• Man-day charges should be based on actual inspection time only.
• Under normal circumstances a minimum of 200 units should be inspected per man-day. Exceptions
must be confirmed and approved by Charming Shoppes QA/QC Department prior to the inspection.
• For Charming Shoppes-paid inspections, travel and expenses are compensated.
• Travel time and report writing should not be included in the man-day.

2
Revised 4/2012

Footwear Inspection Criteria


Inspections are to be conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQC ZI.4-2008 (formally MIL-STD 105E), Normal
Inspection, General Level II. The AQL level is 2.5. Major and minor defects should be listed on a chart to
provide clear overview of quality. Then cumulative major defects can be listed adding in minor defects. 4 minor
defects =1 major defect.

If multiple colors are inspected at one time, inspector must advise how many of each color were
inspected. Defects must be listed by color on the inspection report. If the number of defects found in
one color are equal to or greater than 50% of the number of units needed to fail the shipment, additional
units of that color must be inspected based on the lot size of the color.

Example:
• Shipment size is 2,700 units – 900 units of each color – brown, tan and black.
• 125 units inspected across 3 colors – 41 units of brown, 42 units of tan and 42 units of black.
• Pass/fail ratio is 7/8.
• 6 defects are found; 4 of the defects are in the tan color.
• 4 defects equals 50% of the number of defects needed to fail the shipment; therefore, additional units
will need to be inspected.
• Based on the lot size of the tan, the new sampling size for this color is 80 units (pass/fail =5/6). Since
42 units were inspected, the inspector will need to pull an additional 38 units from cartons that were not
included in the initial sampling.
• While inspecting the additional 38 pairs, at the point where 2 major defects are found the inspector can
stop inspecting and consider this color failed. Samples showing the worst defects and the most
common defect found during inspection must be sent to Charming Shoppes QA/QC at the supplier’s
expense.
• If only 1 defective pair is found after inspecting the 38 additional pairs of shoes, the shipment can pass.


Final Random Inspection (FRI)

The Vendor / Supplier / Factory will contact the third party inspection company via email a minimum of two
weeks prior to the desired inspection date, referencing the Charming Shoppes Purchase Order Number. At the
time of inspection, goods must be 100% complete with a minimum of 80% of the shipment packed. It is
recommended that the inspection date is scheduled far enough in advance of the ship date to accommodate
corrective action if the shipment fails inspection and to allow review and approval by Charming Shoppes.
Samples are selected at random by the inspector. Inspection results are to be reviewed with the factory
manager upon completion. The factory may not ship until the report is reviewed by the Charming Shoppes QC
team and a release is transmitted. Copies of the inspection report must be emailed to the following Charming
Shoppes QC team within 24 hours of completion of the inspection.

To properly perform a final production inspection, the factory must provide a detailed packing list. Samples are
selected at random by the inspector.

Major areas of concentration during final inspections are:
• Appearance and packaging
• Materials
• Components and trims
• Workmanship
• Footwear should not be measured

3
Revised 4/2012
Re-inspection

In the event of a failure the manufacturer will be required to sort the complete shipment and notify the inspection
company as well as Charming Shoppes when re-inspection can take place. For inspection continuity, the same
third party inspection service must be used for the re-inspection. The previous FRI report must be available to
the inspector prior to the re-inspection. Failed reports are to be transmitted via email to Sandra Furia, Matthew
Berry and Leah Socker of Charming Shoppes within 24 hours after completion of inspection, with notification
that a re-inspection is anticipated. A soft copy of the failed report will be left at the factory. Re-inspection will be
conducted exactly as if it were an FRI. Suppliers are responsible for all re-inspection fees.


Inspection Guidelines for Footwear

1. Cartons/Shoe Boxes

The following are to be checked:
• Outer carton – for damage, wetness, that material meets specs, proper size, proper cementing or
stapling.
• Carton labeling – labels in proper place and adhered to sufficiently, correct information printed on
carton, and matches label.
• Shoe box – damaged, wet material, meets specs, proper size box for contents, proper cementing, lid fits
bottom, color of lid and bottom same as confirmation sample, and printing correct.
• Shoe Box Labeling – labels in proper place, straight and not wrinkled, label adhered properly, shoe box
labels match carton label exactly.

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o Carton/shoe box damaged, wet and/or not sealed/cemented properly.
o Any mislabeling of carton or box.
o Shoe box color comes off easily.
o No country of origin on carton.


2. Price Tickets

The price tickets on each piece inspected must be checked to confirm the information matches the information
on the PO. Within the same color and style the information printed on each ticket should be the same.

Price tickets do not need to be scanned; only a visual inspection is required to determine whether the
information is legible and the barcode is intact.


3. Shoe Packaging

The following are to be checked:
• Open the shoe box. Appearance of the wrapping must be neat without wrinkling. Each shoe must be
wrapped so that there is no chance that it can touch the other shoe in the box during transit. There
must be sufficient “spacer” paper or other approved material so that there is no movement of the shoes
in the box during shipping. Bows, ornaments, etc. must be pre-wrapped before final shoe wrapping to
prevent damage or damage to the other shoe. A package of silica gel or equivalent must be in every
box.
• Take the pair of shoes out of the box. Style, color, size and width must match the box label. The
country of origin must be marked on each shoe. The shoes must retain their lasted shape through
stuffing and wanding, or other types of inserts in the case of sandals or other open back shoes.
Remove all wanding and stuffing before continuing the inspection.

4
Revised 4/2012
3. Shoe Packaging (continued)

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o Wrapping not preventing shoes from touching each other or the box.
o Insufficient stuffing to prevent significant movement of the shoes inside the box.
o Bows or ornaments not pre-wrapped.
o Any deviation in style, color, size from box label or each other within a pair.
o No silica gel.
o No country of origin marking on each shoe.


4. Trims/Bows/Ornaments/Embroidery

All material used must be inspected concerning their optical compliance with the approval sample or
confirmation sample. The trims, bows and ornaments are to be checked for location, color construction and
attachment.

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o Distinct color deviation.
o Color easily comes off.
o Incorrect position of attachment (trim/bows/ornaments).
o Attachments are not securely attached.
o Sharp edges.


5. Lining

The heel lining as well as the quarter lining must be adhered onto the counter and inserted without wrinkles.
The box toe on vamp, as well as the toe lining, has to be well cemented and located without wrinkles. Lining
wrinkles or other pressure points in the inner part of the shoe can cause trouble or pain for the user and
therefore can not be accepted. The lining is to be checked for damage and for good adhesion to vamp.

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o Heel/quarter lining badly adhered onto the counter.
o Toe on vamp and lining badly adhered onto the box toe.
o Wrinkled lining causing pressure points inside shoe.
o Lining damaged.


6. Counter

The counter must be completely adhered to the lining and the upper material. It is important that with the
counter adhered, absolutely no pressure points or wrinkles are created.

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o Wrong counter size.
o Counters are misplaced.
o Counters are badly molded.
o Pressure points in counter area, adhered with wrinkles.


5
Revised 4/2012
7. Facings

All facings, especially eyelets, hooks and triangles, must be well attached to the shoe so that they do not come
apart later when the shoe is worn. With riveted metal facings make sure that the riveting has been done
correctly and upper material has proper backing. There must not be any sharp edges which would injure the
foot or snag hosiery or stockings. The facings are to be checked for damage, completeness, and correct color.

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o Missing facings.
o Damaged facings.
o Sharp-edged riveted facings.
o Facings obviously in wrong position.
o Wrong color.


8. Soles

All soles must be inspected for optical compliance with the requirements. Refer to color standard or approved
confirmation sample and check the profiles for thickness, sole edge forming and coloring as well as sole
marking. The soles must be cemented according to shoe and last. They should not be out of place or in a
twisted position. The sole should not be too long or too short.

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o Distinct color variation.
o The coating peels off/cracks.
o Sole edge or base is damaged by roughing.
o Sole thickness below minimum of the specification.
o Sole more than 2 mm short, long, small or misplaced.
o Sole cemented in a twisted or distorted way causing a deformation of the shoe.
o Poor adhesion of the color paint or color migration.
o Excessive wrinkling or x-raying in the shank or sole flap areas.


9. Heel/Top Lift (Dress Shoes)

The heel and top material must be as confirmation sample.

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o Bad or distorted heel shape.
o Top lift that can be twisted by hand.
o Poor heel nailing/screwing.
o Heel covering cemented with wrinkles.
o Wrong size heel.
o Distinct color deviations.
o Heel or top lift more than 1mm short, long, small or misplaced on shoe.
o Wrong material on heel or top lift.
o Any gap between heel and upper or top lift and heel.


10. Sock Lining/Cushion

All sock lining used must be inspected for optical compliance with our requirements referring to approved color
lab dips or approved confirmation sample by checking the color, thickness and sock marking. The sock lining
has to be cemented in accordance to the correct size and without wrinkles.
6
Revised 4/2012
10. Sock Lining/Cushion (continued)

The insole should be completely covered. The sock lining thickness should not differ more than .1 mm from the
specification. The bonding of the transfer printed or the color print must be strong. Make sure that the correct
thickness, density, and hardness of foam material is used as per specification and/or the confirmation sample.
Make sure that the cushion is correctly placed and has been graded correctly.

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o Distinct color deviations.
o Sock lining covered with wrinkles.
o Cushion foam support is in the incorrect position.
o Badly printed label, incorrect label, or incorrect placement.
o Incorrect material of cushion foam used.


11. Soil

Upper, sole and shoe interior are to be checked concerning cement stains or general soiling. These stains
must be removed.

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o One or more soiling or cement stains more than 3mm in diameter
o Visible marking lines.
o Non-removable cement stains or soiling more than 3mm in diameter
o Any other noticeable soiling or foreign material.


12. Over-Cementing

All shoes with shell soles or half-shell soles being cemented on are to be cemented in such a way that the upper
edges of the soles cover exactly the upper edges of the cement coating. All shoes with flat soles are to be
cemented in such a way that the exterior edge of the soles exactly cover the cemented/roughed area.


13. Finishing

Before the finish can be applied, the shoe must be cleaned of all dirt collected during the manufacturing
processes. The cleaned shoe must be repaired where necessary. The choice of repair material depends on the
type of repair. The method of working depends on the type of repair material.

The finishing materials, applications, brushing, buffing, etc. must be exactly as the confirmation sample for color,
texture, shine, depth, etc. The shoe must be dried and packed so that it arrives at its destination looking
exactly as the confirmation sample.

The following will not be accepted if found during inspection:
o Distinct color deviations on touch-up
o Color easily comes off
o Cut edge is badly dyed/linked
o Heavy solvent base pigment in the top line of PU lining causing rough edges
o Damage not properly repaired
o Finish not matching confirmation sample

7
Revised 4/2012
Defects

Defects are categorized as major or minor depending on the severity. To determine whether a defect is major
or minor, the following factors will be considered:

• Whether the defect will render the item unsaleable.

• The severity of the defect.

• The location of the defect on the item.

Critical Defects are not allowed – These are defects that could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for
individuals using or maintaining the product, as well as defects that contravene legal regulations.

Major Defects – Functional defects reducing the usability or strength of the product as well as obvioius visual
defects that would reduce the sales value.

Minor Defects – Defects that will not reduce the use of the product, but may influence the sale.

• Any MAJOR defect makes a pair of shoes unacceptable.

• Two or more MINOR defects in a critical zone should be listed as a major defect on the
inspection report.

• Four or more MINOR defects, regardless of location, should be listed as a major defect on the
inspection report.

Photos with notes detailing the defect and an arrow pointing to the defect must be taken and submitted with the
inspection report. The photo should be assigned a reference number; these numbers should be listed on the
inspection report in the workmanship defect chart.

The photos should clearly depict all defects identified in the report. If multiple garments are found with
the same type of defect we do not need photos of each garment, with the exception of cases when there
is a variance in the severity of a specific defect. In these cases, multiple photos should be taken to aid
in the classification of the defect range.

Example:
Skipped stitches are found on 3 units -
1 pair of shoes has 4 skipped stitches in a row
2 pairs of shoes each have 1 skipped stitch
We will need a total of 2 photos showing the range of skipped stitches found -
1 photo showing the shoe with 4 skipped stitches
1 photo of one of the shoes with 1 skipped stitch


* Sealed samples of the worst defects must be sent to Charming Shoppes’ QC Department for review, at the
expense of the supplier.


8
Revised 4/2012
Defect Classification List

Material Defects
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Non-conforming color X X
Holes X
Leather defect X X
Woven fabric defect X
Substitute material X
Thickness of material not as specified X X
Non-conforming leather grain X X
Material yellowing X


Cleanliness
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Dirt X X
Stain mark X X
Untrimmed threads X
Loose thread X X


Appearance
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Color shade variation X X
Wrinkle mark X
Lasted crooked X X
Damaged upper/lining X X
High/low back X
Leather/fabric grain variation X X
Color bleeding – components and/or accessories X
Excessive toe spring or not enough toe spring X X
Twisted outsole X
Sockliner not properly inserted into shoe X X
Sockliner incorrect size for shoe X
Sockliner missing X
Poor adhesive causes separation of sockliner layers X
Uneven sprayed edge X X
Nap/fabric direction mismatched within a pair X X
Hairy edge X X
Rocking sole X X
Different length on upper X X
Loose or uneven welting on sole edge X X
Start/stop point of sole edge welting not at inside quarter X X
Toe/counter chemical sheet is too soft X X
Uneven top line X X
Holes not punched properly X X
Different width of tape/strap folding X
Blooming outsole X
High roughing X X


Stitching Defects
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Broken stitches X
Skipped stitches X X
9
Revised 4/2012
Run-off stitching X X
Uneven stitching X X
Wavy stitching X X
Insecure back stitching X
Loose stitch tension X X
Missing stitches X
Unmatched join stitching X X
Needle chews/cuts X X
Excessive start/stop stitches X X
Lining sponge drop because of poor placement or delasting X X
Poor stitching tension X X
No bottom stitch X


Seaming Defects
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Open seam X
Puckered seam X X
Pleated seam X
Twisted seam X
Puckering X
Frayed edges X
Mis-aligned seam X
Misplaced backtrack X


Accessories and Trimmings
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Scratches X
Poor plating X
Sharp points/edge X
Rust/Corrosion X X
Wrong type X
Color discharge on accessories only X
Zipper malfunction X
Zipper defect X
Missing beads, sequins, faux stones, ornaments X
Detached ornament X
Misplaced ornament X X
Poor ornament fit X
Deformed ornament X
Press studs difficult to fasten X
Poor sewing of decorative trim X X
Misplaced decorative trim X X
Poor fit of decorative trim X
Missing elastic band X
Wrong placement of elastic band X
Wrong width of elastic band X
Lasting tape on gore not removed, preventing function of elastic X
Elastic without sufficient memory X
Under cured rubber X X
Color bleeding on back of rubber X X
Poor trimming of rubber/phylon X
Blooming outsole X
Yellowing rubber/phylon X X
10
Revised 4/2012
Stain on PVC tile for non-marking rubber sole X
Holes (other than pin holes to pop gas bubbles) X X
Shrinkage of phylon (EVA) X X
Air hole or cuts on EVA X X
Rebounding phylon (EVA) edge X
Contour in footbed poorly formed X X
Bubbles on PU cosmetic X X
Void on PU X X
Plating of metal accessories coming off X X
Poor top lift setting X X


Assembly
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Folds in the lining X
Backers over thickness X
Twisted uppers X
Torn or cracked upper X
Cup between sole and upper X
Sole and upper of different sizes X
Poorly assembled soles X X
Deformed shape of sole (overheated) X
Heel covering poorly fitted X
Strap too short X
Protruding nails or pins X
Peeling X
Air bubbles at plastic label X X
Sloping/slanted back counter X X
Poor lasting X
Loose foxing X
Poor adhesive between upper and outsole X X
Poor cupsole stitch X X
Insole pattern board torn and folded X
Counter not active X X
Over cement X X
Counter/lining not under inner-sole board X


Measurement
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Shoe lace length not as specified X X
Shoe lace length different within a pair X X
Back counter height not as specified X X
Sockliner length not as specified X
Outsole length not as specified X
Toe thong length different within a pair X X




11
Revised 4/2012
Reporting

Reports must include the Charming Shoppes purchase order number (not the vendor purchase order number).

The results must be reviewed and signed off by the factory management and the inspector. A soft copy must
be left at the factory.

All reports must be emailed within 24 hours to the below distribution list:

sandra.furia@charming.com
leah.socker@charming.com
matthew.berry@charming.com


Key Contacts

Sandra Furia Matthew Berry
Vice President, QA/QC Director, QA/Testing
450 Winks Lane 3344 Morse Crossing Road
Bensalem, PA 19020 Columbus, OH 43219
(p) 215-638-6920 (p) 614-463-5523
sandra.furia@charming.com matthew.berry@charming.com


Leah Socker
Manager, QA/QC
450 Winks Lane
Bensalem, PA 19020
(p) 215-638-6929
leah.socker@charming.com