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Dennis
Site Admin
J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
Posted: Mon May 22, 2006 9: 29 pm
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Last edited by Dennis on Sun J un 17, 2007 3:54 pm; edited 2 times in total
p1j4k
CCC Regular
J oined: 14 Feb 2006
Posts: 97
Location: Calgary, AB
Posted: Tue May 23, 2006 12:16 am
now this is what i call usefull info....
thanks a lot Dennis...
well... please post the results, and ill be most likely on that as well. seems like this would be actually worth the time/ money.
Anh@DDI
Site Admin
J oined: 27 Mar 2002
Posts: 4195
Location: Toronto
Posted: Tue May 23, 2006 9: 27 am
What a cool idea. I 'm interested to see how this works out.
boner
Moderator
J oined: 17 May 2002
Posts: 847
Location: Markham
Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 8: 48 am
not sure if you know this too but the added bonus that i found durning the little research i did on this swap a few years back is
that the MC is bigger...so you're more able to use those 18 piston calipers some manufacturer is going deem necessary : p
like i said, i was thinkin bout doing this a few years back but i've since decided afte i get the exhaust replaced, i'm only going to
keep up with maintenance, no more mods!!! (we'll see how long THAT promise lsats!!!0
two questions tho, why did you get new sensors? they are all the same iirc. i'm using mk3 ones in the rear beam as mine
desintegrated when i tore the car apart in the fall. and what about the hard line connections up at the MC? are you bending new
ones? putting mk3 lines in? are there factory hard lines that fit?
Dennis
Site Admin
J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
Posted: Fri May 26, 2006 10:44 pm
This should be a simple project, most of it is contained in the ABS control unit so it will really reduce some of the wiring in the
car. I will need to run a new brake line from the rear load sensing valve to the master cylinder but I will make one up. I n fact,
VW sells the ends and the tubing but very little pre-bent tubing. I haven't taken the time to go into the details yet so I am not
sure what I have to do with the factory brake lines yet. I f I have to run all 4 new then that won't really be an issue, all you need
is a pipe bender, a I SO bubble flare tool, and the tubing and ends.
This ABS system is the same as those used in the newer VWs such as the Passat, Golf/ J etta, Audi A4s and even BMW & MB to
name a few. When I bought the swap stuff I checked part numbers and the ABS rings were the same and the sensors were
different so I asked for everything including the sensors.
The connectors in the B4 Passat harness for the front wheel sensors are also in different places so there is some modding to
getting this working. I have to lay the wiring out to see where the connectors go through the apron to the front wheel sensors.
Once I have this mapped out then I will know what I have to do. The front & rear wheel sensors are physically different in design
at the hub as well so I don't know if they will interchange or not. The Corrado wheel sensors are round and are made of shiny
metal that looks like a cylinder whereas these wheel sensors are really squared but they should bolt right in. Because the cars
are so close I am betting that all of this stuff will bolt right in without a problem. I 've never seen a write- up of this or know
anyone who has tried it but I can't see anything that would make it hard at this point. I have to go to the library and photocopy
some of the manual on this system so I know where everything goes and after that I would only need the brake booster &
bracket.
Dennis
Dennis
Site Admin
Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:33 pm
I finally found three days in a row where I can do this project and it has taken 2 days to get the bulk of it done. I started by
removing the wiring from inside the car which involved removing the drivers seat, drivers side lower dash tray, and the front &
rear centre console, both lower rear seat cushions, the drivers side seat back, and the driver side rear panel. Once you have this
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J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
stuff out you can unplug the rear ABS sensors from under the rear seat cushions and start to feed them out. You will be able to
pull the wiring all the way to the front seat support on the floor and there will be a single wire that branches off and goes to the
data block under the dash on the drivers side. You can see this wire laid out in the image below, I just lifted the carpet and
tugged/ wiggled it out.
The next step is to remove all of the wiring from the ABS/ Brake assembly in the engine compartment and pull its power
connectors from the battery. Once these are out of the way you will want to push the wiring aside and just leave it until the
master ABS assembly is out of the car. I went and removed the 4 bolts holding the brake/ clutch cylinders to the firewall inside
the car. You will need the proper bracket for the newer master cylinder you are installing, three bolts are easy to get to and one
is hard to gain access to, I will try to get pics of these later. While in the car you will want to remove the pin from the brake
pedal that holds it to the brake booster and release the clip on the clutch pedal. A good idea would be to use a mighty-vac like
product to pull the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder then go to the calipers and do the same there. Once you have
gotten the fluid drained you can remove the 3 brake lines from master and pull that monster out. To make this easier I also
moved the coolant tank, cooling fan control module, power steering fluid container, and the battery. This is what you want to
remove...
And here it is....
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That thing weighs enough so I am sure to drop 10 pounds plus with it and the excess of wiring that goes with it. The unit that
will be replacing it is called the TEVES 20 GI ABS/ EDL System and obviously has ABS and Traction Control. The TEVES 02
ABS/ EDL system used brake fluid to pressurize the system and providing the brake boost and the system pressure to control the
ABS system. The TEVES 20 GI system uses a vacuum actuated brake booster and a standard master cylinder with a seperate
ABS control unit that has the ECM built into the solenoid pack. This is a smaller and lighter assemby and fits really well with a
few exceptions. On the second pic you can clearly see the support bracket that is needed, this is different from the one that is
currently in your Corrado...
I n the pic below you can see the space where the brake & clutch master cylinders will sit and to the right of this you can see
where the wiring enters the car. J ust below this is a small bracket that is used to hold the clutch line, this will no longer be
needed as the ECM for the new ABS control unit sits just above this and blocks it. You will need to trial fit the ABS control unit a
number of times and bend the existing rigid brake lines and the clutch rigid line to make sure all of these things clear properly.
Once the lines were sitting in the proper place you can remove the ABS harness from the engine compartment.
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You will need to remove the cluster surround if you have a VR6 to access the two ABS relays and the two fuses that are seen
below. These are just clipped in place and can be pulled out and then pushed towards the fuse panel. You will need to pull the
fuse panel aside to access the main harness for the ABS. Remove the ABS ECM from the drivers side kick panel and pull the
harness out and tug it up and pull it out so it is hanging free. You will now want to pull the main ABS harness from the engine
compartment through the hole in the firewall. You have to play around and push the wiring and connectors through a bit at a
time and it is really painful but it can be done. There are also a few connectors on the back of the fuse panel that will need to be
removed, you just have to fish around and release them. This is done with a locking bar on the fuse panel and the clip on the
individual harness plug going into the fuse panel. On my 1994 VR6 one harness connector had a load reduction signal so I
removed this and will tap into it elsewhere. The second harness for the ABS system will be swapped with that from the new ABS
system so that looks pretty simple. I still have to do the wiring under the dash and the rear ABS sensors which are different that
those in the Corrado.
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So far I have purchased a brake booster & support bracket, ABS control unit/ ECM, all ABS sensors, and a complete wiring
harness from a 1997 B4 VR6 Passat. To add to this I bought some stuff from VM to add to this: a bunch of short pre- flared rigid
brake lines, a long length of rigid brake line, a bunch of unions to join the lines, brake fluid, factory VR6 vacume line for the
booster ($95 or so for this one), and two large diameter flares for the left side brake lines where they attach to the ABS control
unit as seen below. You will also need an I SO Bubble Flare tool to make little joiners lines to attach the factory lines to the
control unit. The flaring tool must be the one listed above or the system will leak so get the correct one.
I first ran the line from the ABS control unit to the right rear brake line and connected this to the right rear brake. From the
factory the Corrado has a 3 channel ABS system so it uses a single brake line from the control unit to just under the drivers side
rear seat cushion. There is a 'T' located here that this line enters and from there it has two lines that run to the rear load sensing
valve. What I did was remove the 'T' and used unions to attach the two rear brake lines to the short lines that were attached to
the 'T'. Once I had the rear plumbed in I put the ABS assembly back in for a final time and bolted it in place from the inside.
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As I mentioned I made many test fits of the assembly before hand so I had already found what was in the way. For me it was
the rigid brake lines, they sit in different places with either ABS control unit so I just bent the existing ones as little as possible
and used short lengths of tubing with unions to plumb it all up. I n the first pic you can see how it sits compared to the factory
system. This one definately sits closer to the driver side of the car because of the ABS control unit but it is smaller and gives a
bit more access to the slave cylinder.
I still have to complete the wiring and then put the fuse panel back in place and then attach the pedals to their master cylinders.
The rear two senors used different connectors where they enter the car so I will need to swap the old sensors out for the ones
that I got for the new system. My front left sensor is also defective so I will put in the one I got with the system which is from
the Passat but it is the same. After this I can fill the system with brake fluid and then bleed the brakes and the clutch.
Last edited by Dennis on Mon May 21, 2007 12: 49 am; edited 2 times in total
scirocco16v
CCC Addict
J oined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 1358
Location: montreal
Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:41 pm
this looks like something that is really worth doing.
keep us posted with plenty of pics too.
Dennis thanks for all your tech support!
___ __ __ ___ __ ___ __
what happened to freedom of speech??
people should not be banished on CCC for voicing their opinions.
Dennis
Site Admin
J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 7: 48 pm
I got it all hooked up and working in a basic state so the car is once again on the road. I t was a lot of work, I think I have
invested about 25 hours into this project just doing the actual swap not including research and purchasing. I am still missing a
lot of parts on the car so I have a fair amount of work to do to get it back together once I finish cleaning up the loose ends.
I went back at it and did the wiring yesterday and put all this back together and filled the system with brake fluid. I turned the
ignition to on to let the system self- pressurize and then checked for leaks. I t is always a good idea to quality check your work
and make sure everything is tight. I t went really well, the only thing I found was one of the rear brake lines was starting to drip
brake fluid but it wasn't leaking enough to drip on the ground as seen below...
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The pic above is right under the rear drivers side seat and the arrow is pointing to the leaking brake fluid, I tightened the
connection a little more and the leaking stopped. I f the flare isn't made properly you can see leaks so I will have to check this a
few more times to make sure it is really sealed. The stud in the top of the pic above is where the single line from the front
branches off into the 2 lines going to the rear load sensing valve. The pic below shows the new brake line going the length of the
car and if you are going to put a B3 16V Passat master cylinder in the car you will need to run this line as well but it is really
easy.
Next was wiring, the ABS system on the Passat gets is Load Reduction signal from a connector under the dash but the Corrado
gets this from the fuse panel so I made a jumper and plugged this as seen below. I still need to wire this into the Data connector
so I can use my VAG-COM to check for codes & system operation. Currently the brake lights are not wired into the ABS meaning
the traction control will not turn off if I decide to left foot brake while spinning the wheels. Again, I simply need to make another
jumper and hopefully plug this into the wiring of the car somewhere. Now the Check Engine light has company, it can look at the
dimly glowing ABS light and bright Brake warning lights which won't turn off. I haven't checked into these yet but it is probably
something simple. I pulled the wrong harness from under the seat which was part of the parking brake handle switch and I think
this is probably the reason the brake system warning light is on (I can't remember where the other part of this harness plugs
into).
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The jumper above plugs directly into one of the main harnesses going into the fuse panel so I always draw a picture of the
harness so I know I am plugging it into the correct position. Otherwise I found the coolant bottle sits almost on the ABS unit so I
will need to see if there is a modified coolant tank bottle for the car. You can see how close it sits in the image below. The wiring
for the level sensor for the brake fluid is also different from the Corrado so I will have to splice a new connector into the wiring. I
was hoping that I wouldn't have to cut any wiring on the car but this isn't so, 1 wire isn't bad. I had to replace both rear wheel
sensors as the connectors in the car are different but on the 1994 both front sensors were the same.
My first impressions are really positive, with the 11.3 DE brakes on the front and factory brakes on the rear the brakes bite much
harder than stock. I still have some air in the system so the brakes will pickup a bit once I bleed them again. The car has no
pulling at all and the brakes take less effort than the stock ones. I haven't had a chance to test the ABS as I am still shaking the
install down but so far it looks like it is a success. Vacuum assisted brakes do feel differently than hydraulically assisted brakes
so this may have some part in the feel of the brakes.
Basically the system will fit & work in the Corrado with little modification other than bending some lines and splicing one
connector. I think I paid around $400 - $500 excluding labour to update this car from 3 channel ABS to 4 channel ABS so this
part wasn't bad at all. The time was a real killer though, I guess I could have worked faster but it is still going to take a fair
amount of time to do this swap.
Dennis
Site Admin
J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 2:23 pm
I was going over all of the work to double check that everything was installed properly, nothing had backed off, the fluid level
wasn't dropping, and no leaks had appeared when I noticed something wrong. When I originally hooked the rigid brake lines to
the ABS module I put the left front brake line where the left rear should be and the left rear where the left front should be. So I
made another couple of lines and swapped everything back. I bleed the brakes as well to get air I introduced out of the system
and I think there was still a bit of air in the system before so the pedal feels better. I am pretty sure the ECM in this system
allows you to bleed the system using a VAG-COM like product. Otherwise everything checked out but I still need to get a
connector for the brake fluid level sensor in the brake fluid resiviour so I can wire this up as it is important.
I f you are going to go with this swap or if you just want to use the B3 Passat 16V brake booster & master cylinder to replace the
ABS system you will need to remove the old assembly and run a 4th brake line to the rear of the car. To remove the assembly
you will need to remove 4 bolts inside the car meaning you must pull all of the trim from under the dash to access the bolts. I n
the image below you can see the red circles, these are the 4 bolts and the brake assembly will just be sitting there. The one
above the steering column is hard to get to and I ended up using a number of extensions and a 13mm universal socket to get it
out. Once these nuts have been removed you will be able to pull the brake assembly out of the car. You will need to remove the
clevis pin on the brake pedal which is easy enough but the clutch master is a little harder. You will see a 'box' like device welded
to the clutch pedal, you will need to push in the two clips shown on either side (as seen with the arrows in the pic below) and
pull the clutch pedal back to release this clip.
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I got all of the wiring in place yesterday and mounted the fuses for the ABS system on the top of the fuse panel. Because my car
is no longer running OBD-I I just used the space for the old After-Run relay to hold the fuses as seen above relay 72 and 18 as
seen in the pic below. I also had wiring in front of the fuse panel as seen in the pic below with the arrows, the wires on the left of
the pic are for the rear ABS sensor and the wire on the right is for the data link for the computer. The data link wire was a pain,
I didn't have the correct plug end for the data block so I had to cut & splice from the old harness which ticked me off. Now all of
the wiring is complete and I have pulled the fuse panel out again and routed all of the wiring properly.
The data block for the computer is located under the dash right in front of the heater box, it is clipped to the lower support. This
is where all of the wiring will plug into so it is accessable by using the data connector and a program like VAG- COM. I f you look
at the pic below you can see there are a number of connectors on this but they are cut in half, everything on the left is from the
'L' lines and these can be access by using 'Blink Mode Output' or flashing the codes and everything on the right is for the 'K' line
which must be accessed by 'Rapid Data Transfer' using a program such as VAG-COM. There are spots for 3 double plugs on the
bottom, again the left will be the L line and the right will be the K line. Because my old & new ABS systems never had an L line I
just used the single plug from the old setup and spliced it onto another wire I strung from behind the fuse panel so I can access
the ABS ECM with VAG-COM.
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The only other step needed was the creation of a number of rigid brake lines to interface the stock Corrado rigid brake lines with
the new system. For this I have an 'I SO Bubble Flare' kit that is used for flaring the brake lines. The brake lines I bought were
stock lines which are made out of mild steel that has been lined internally with a copper coating to stop rust. I bought mine from
Princess Auto and it is sold under part number '8056417' and will work on 4.75mm (this is what I used for the brake lines),
6mm, 8mm, and 10mm rigid lines. On top of this kit you will also need a pipe cutter which are really cheap and easy to use.
You will need to begin by getting the rough length for your brake/ fuel line and then using the pipe cutter to make the line the
proper length plus a bit. You will need to leave about 5mm to 6mm extra on each end of the lines for the flares you will have to
make. Using the pipe cutter is the first step, you slip it on where you want to make the cut and then tighten it so it has some
resistance while turning it around the pipe. I tighten it until there is a fair amount of resistance and then spin it a couple of times
and then give it a 1/ 8 of turn or so on the tension knob and then give it another couple of turns. I repeat this until the line is cut,
once this is complete you will need to de- burr the end you have just cut. I n the kit I bought shown above you can see the tool
that looks like a screwdriver with the pointy end, you stick the pointy end in the end of the rigid brake line and then spin it clock
wise to remove all of crap from the end of the rigid line.
Now it is time to clamp the brake line in the flaring tool, you will want to stick the brake line in the 4.75mm part of the tool.
When tightening the brake line in place I tighten the side which hooks into the tool first and then tighten the other side after
which clamps the line down nicely. The tool will dig into the brake line a little but there is not much you can do about this. Once
the brake line is inserted it is easier if you clamp the tool in a vice or something like that to hold it while you flare the line.
You will need to ensure that you have slipped your flare on first or you will be cutting the tube to put it on. When the tube is
slipped into the clamping jig you will need to make sure about 5mm - 6mm is sticking out so you can properly create a flare.
This amount varies depending on the rigid tubing used so make a couple of test flares first to ensure it is set properly then make
the final flares.
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Once you have this done you will select the 4.75mm die and screw this into the flaring clamp and then hook this on the tool that
you have put in the vice. Line it up and the tighten the clamp until it bottoms out and the new flare has been created.
Now you can back everything off and release the rigid line and you will have a nice flared end as seen below. Oh yah, that is the
stuff nicely sealing flares are made out of.
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I n the pic below you can see some of the stuff I was using to make these lines. The part marked 'U' are the unions that are used
to connect two rigid lines together and I think I used about 4 or 5 of these in this upgrade. The unions are sold under VW part
number '411 611 789' and anyone that knows VW part numbers will know that these parts were originally used on the VW Type
4 which is pretty old indeed. The next part marked 'FN' is the flare nut and these hold the brake lines into the different parts and
are sold under VW part number '1J 0 611 731'. I actually bought a number of pre-flared lines from VM Autohaus for this project
which I cut up and bent as needed so I didn't need to worry about the flared nuts. The only difference being the ones listed
above have an 11mm end for the wrench line most VW brake line fittings and the pre-made lines used 10mm ends. The pipe on
the left marked 'TB' was bent with a tubing bender but this makes pretty big radius bends which may not work for you. I used
the tubing bender and my hands to put in the different bends needed but if you use your hands make sure you don't kink the
brake lines or you could be in trouble.
I n the pic below you can see that the two lines have been joined with the union and this is how they would sit on your car. This
stuff is super easy to do with just the cost of a few tools. I f you know the lengths of the tubes and don't want to flare your own
ends then places like VM Autohaus do sell pre-flared lines which you would only have to bend into place.
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So that wraps up another project, I can now say that the 4 channel ABS from the B4 VR6 Passat will swap into the Corrado with
no real problems. I will need to check the ABS light because it is not as bright as the other lights but otherwise it is a success. I t
was a lot of work and I still have a number of things to put back in place but the brakes feel really good and feel like they grab
better than they did before. I f I was really smart I would have done some test stops before the swap to see if & how much better
the car stopped after the swap but I didn't.
I f you are going to swap the standard power brakes from the B3 16V Passat then you can use the information from this thread to
make it happen. You will need to bend the factory tubing to work on the Passat master cylinder and you will need to run a 4th
line to the rear of the car. Otherwise it is pretty simple to do but it will take some time. I f you are going to do it correctly you will
also want to remove the old ABS harness and ECM which should help drop a few pounds from the total weight of the car.
That's it for this thread, it took me long enough to find all of the parts and I did end up with an extra ABS Modulator and master
cylinder but I made it work in the end.
scirocco16v
CCC Addict
J oined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 1358
Location: montreal
Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 11:42 pm
today i was looking under my c and noticed i only have one hardline running underneath to the pressure regulator on the rear
axle.
i assume you will have to bypass the regulator?
___ __ __ ___ __ ___ __
what happened to freedom of speech??
people should not be banished on CCC for voicing their opinions.
Dennis
Site Admin
J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 9: 43 pm
scirocco16v wrote:
today i was looking under my c and noticed i only have one hardline running underneath to the pressure regulator on the
rear axle.
i assume you will have to bypass the regulator?
I f you look even closer you will see one rigid line coming from the master cylinder in the front of the car, just follow this down
towards the rear of the car. You will find this single line goes down the floor pan and as soon as it goes up under the drivers side
rear seat it will enter a brass 'T'. From here a pair of short lines will go to the load sensing valve just like a non- ABS car. All I did
was run a second rear line and then use the unions to join them to the existing rear lines right were the 'T' was. I f you go with
any 4-channel brake set-up you must run that extra line or you will be pushing the brake bios way towards the front of the car.
scirocco16v
CCC Addict
J oined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 1358
Location: montreal
Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 9: 58 pm
Dennis wrote:
scirocco16v wrote:
today i was looking under my c and noticed i only have one hardline running underneath to the pressure
regulator on the rear axle.
i assume you will have to bypass the regulator?
I f you look even closer you will see one rigid line coming from the master cylinder in the front of the car, just follow this
down towards the rear of the car. You will find this single line goes down the floor pan and as soon as it goes up under the
drivers side rear seat it will enter a brass 'T'. From here a pair of short lines will go to the load sensing valve just like a non-
ABS car. All I did was run a second rear line and then use the unions to join them to the existing rear lines right were the 'T'
was. I f you go with any 4-channel brake set-up you must run that extra line or you will be pushing the brake bios way
towards the front of the car.
ah i see the T fitting where it branches off.
so running two lines in each input of the load sensing regulator.
___ __ __ ___ __ ___ __
what happened to freedom of speech??
people should not be banished on CCC for voicing their opinions.
Dennis
Site Admin
J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 10: 37 pm
Quote:
ah i see the T fitting where it branches off.
so running two lines in each input of the load sensing regulator.
I f your Scirocco has rear disks it will be exactly like what you want the Corrado to be like if you dump the ABS. I used a union to
mate my long brake lines into the shorties and now the plumbing is exactly a A2/ A3/ B3/ B4 with 4 wheel disks and no ABS. Some
people just block one of the outputs of the master cylinder and then leave the rear part as it was with the 3 channel ABS but you
don't get enough pressure to the rear brakes.
scirocco16v
CCC Addict
J oined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 1358
Location: montreal
Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 10: 46 pm
me i think i will go with ABS 4 channels as well.
might as well replace all the hardlines with new since there is rust.
Image
Image
me think i will start to drench the fitting with penetrating oil now.
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___ __ __ ___ __ ___ __
what happened to freedom of speech??
people should not be banished on CCC for voicing their opinions.
Dennis
Site Admin
J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
Posted: Sun J un 17, 2007 7:27 pm
I finally grabbed the last few parts to finish this project off, one item that is different is the plug for the brake fluid level in the
brake fluid container.
I grabbed a connector from a wrecked 96 As J etta but the one from any of the newer cars will work. The part number for the
connector is '6N0 978 702' is but if you can get it with the connectors and some wiring it makes life easier, I just soldered the
new one on and used heatshrink tubing to seal it up.
You can see in this pic how much extra wiring is needed with the factory system, what a mess. Compare this to the pics of the
wiring in the first post of this tread and you can see it probably drops about 5 - 10 pounds on the wiring alone and then add
about 10 pounds for the difference in the main ABS system and that starts to add up.
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I also had to replace my right front ABS sensor, it was triggering the ABS light here and there. I bought a new one and they are
now $38 from VM Autohaus, last I checked it was closer to $100 so it is nice to see the prices go in the correct direction. I think
that's about it, the new system has been working flawlessly so far and now I can really start hammering on it now that
everything is working properly. I really wish I had thought to do some tests on stopping distances with the stock brakes so I had
something to compare them to.
___ __ __ ___ __ ___ __
An armed society is a polite society.
Manners are good when one may have to back up his acts with his life.
Robert A. Heinlein
- 2000 Audi A4 1.8T
- 1994 VR6 Corrado
- 1991 G60 J etta Coupe Syncro
Please, DO NOT send me PMs about technical matters, post them on the board.
radoluvr
CCC Regular
J oined: 18 May 2007
Posts: 128
Location:
Appleton,Wisconsin, USA
Posted: Mon J un 18, 2007 11:17 am
No offense Dennis but don't you think you should be using a tube bender? You may be using one already but it doesn't look like
it. I personally would suggest to anyone doing any typ of brake line assembly to use a tube bender so you don't crimp the line
rendering it useless. I just bought a new bender as my old one was rusty and worked like hell. I picked it up for $20 and it's a
great toll to have to give yourself some piece of mind.
Dennis
Site Admin
J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
Posted: Mon J un 18, 2007 7:42 pm
radoluvr wrote:
No offense Dennis but don't you think you should be using a tube bender? You may be using one already but it doesn't look
like it. I personally would suggest to anyone doing any typ of brake line assembly to use a tube bender so you don't crimp
the line rendering it useless. I just bought a new bender as my old one was rusty and worked like hell. I picked it up for $20
and it's a great toll to have to give yourself some piece of mind.
I have one and I did use where I could but most pipe benders will not make tight corners so I bent those by hand and did the
rest using the bender.
___ __ __ ___ __ ___ __
An armed society is a polite society.
Manners are good when one may have to back up his acts with his life.
Robert A. Heinlein
- 2000 Audi A4 1.8T
- 1994 VR6 Corrado
- 1991 G60 J etta Coupe Syncro
Please, DO NOT send me PMs about technical matters, post them on the board.
scirocco16v
CCC Addict
J oined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 1358
Location: montreal
Posted: Mon J un 18, 2007 7:42 pm
i don; t use a tube bender but wrap it around a pipe to make it bend.
call me ghetto
radoluvr
CCC Regular
J oined: 18 May 2007
Posts: 128
Location:
Appleton,Wisconsin, USA
Posted: Tue J un 19, 2007 8:33 am
No that's not ghetto at all. I t's easier to get tighter bends on smaller corners that way. Luckily the bender I purchased came with
3 different corners to vary the size of the bends. FRom small 90 degree bends to large bends. Typically the medium size works
for anything.
Dennis
Site Admin
Posted: Mon J ul 16, 2007 7: 17 pm
J ust a quick update on this project, the ABS system works perfectly except for one small glitch. The ABS system works flawlessly
and one corner where there is a lot patchwork on the entrance still sets off the ABS but it is almost unnoticeable whereas before
I had to brake earlier to scrub enough speed off to make the corner. The overall feel and responsiveness is also much better now
with this system than it was with the Corrado ABS but it uses higher boost pressures which gives it a touchier feel. The only
glitch is the ABS light, it is much dimmer than before and when I start the car the light stays out for a few seconds then comes
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J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
on and stays on. When I first got the system going the light would come on for a few seconds after the car was started and then
it would go out like normal. I found the right front ABS sensor was defective and it was leaving a code and once this was fixed
the light stays on and no code is stored. I am using the Corrado ABS light so there is probably some difference in the circuit
inside the light assembly. Otherwise it was a good upgrade but I hope there is enough info in this tread because I could find
nothing on people performing the same upgrade so you are pretty much on your own.
___ __ __ ___ __ ___ __
An armed society is a polite society.
Manners are good when one may have to back up his acts with his life.
Robert A. Heinlein
- 2000 Audi A4 1.8T
- 1994 VR6 Corrado
- 1991 G60 J etta Coupe Syncro
Please, DO NOT send me PMs about technical matters, post them on the board.
Bluepower
CCC Newbie
J oined: 17 Dec 2004
Posts: 24
Location: Holland
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 5:13 am
Dennis,
can you write down the part numbers you used for this great mod?? So the numbers of the ABS- unit and the controller- unit?
Thnx
___ __ __ ___ __ ___ __
Corrado 20vt, now 280BHP, soon to be 450BHP...
T4SLC
CCC Addict
J oined: 16 Aug 2006
Posts: 2008
Location: Ontario
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 10:09 am
isn't ecm located on the cyl it's self?
Dennis
Site Admin
J oined: 20 Apr 2003
Posts: 15469
Location: South of Heaven
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 10: 19 pm
[quote]Dennis,
can you write down the part numbers you used for this great mod?? So the numbers of the ABS- unit and the controller- unit?
Thnx[quote]
What part numbers were you looking for specifically? This is all in the car so other than the brake booster it may be hard to get
the numbers but I do have a spare master cylinder/ ABS control unit that is supposed to be the same so I can grab the numbers
off of it. All of the parts used also came off of a North American 1996 - 1997 VR6 Passat with OBD-I I so I don't know if you will
be able to get the same parts over there. I will find my other ABS system and grab the rest of those part numbers.
Parts Used:
- Power Brake Booster - 1997 VR6 Passat - 3A1 614 201 A
- Master Cylinder - 1997 VR6 Passat - Part number pending
- ABS Control Unit - 1997 VR6 Passat - Part number pending
- ABS Computer - 1997 VR6 Passat - Part number pending
- ABS Computer harness - 1997 VR6 Passat - no part number
- Brake/ clutch support bracket (this is what the brake booster & clutch master bolt to) - can't see part number
- Vacuum line from brake booster to intake manifold - part number pending
___ __ __ ___ __ ___ __
An armed society is a polite society.
Manners are good when one may have to back up his acts with his life.
Robert A. Heinlein
- 2000 Audi A4 1.8T
- 1994 VR6 Corrado
- 1991 G60 J etta Coupe Syncro
Please, DO NOT send me PMs about technical matters, post them on the board.
Bluepower
CCC Newbie
J oined: 17 Dec 2004
Posts: 24
Location: Holland
Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 2: 42 pm
Thanks Dennis,
I 've found a similar ABS/ EDS unit nearby on a junkyard and took it.
I 'll soon be starting on the mod myself with your thread as a backup!
gr Niels
___ __ __ ___ __ ___ __
Corrado 20vt, now 280BHP, soon to be 450BHP...
T4SLC
CCC Addict
J oined: 16 Aug 2006
Posts: 2008
Location: Ontario
Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 10: 42 pm
Dennis so all u did was run another break line into RR? + Removed the T connector and ran the OEM rear break line into LR? +
used existing front break lines or did u mod those as well?
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