You are on page 1of 30


Pochampally Saree or Pochampalli Ikat is a saree

made in Bhoodan Pochampally, Nalgonda district, India.
They are popular for their traditional geometric patterns
in Ikat style of dyeing.The intricate geometric design find
their way into the hands of skillful weavers and make it
to the market as beautiful sarees and dress material.

Pochampally Ikat uniqueness lies in the transfer of
intricate design and colouring onto warp and weft
threads first and then weave them together. The fabric
is cotton, silk and sico - a mix of exquisite silk and
cotton. Increasingly, the colours themselves are from
natural sources and their blends.

Pochampally, a cluster of 80 villages, has traditional
looms, whose design is more than a century-old. Today
this Silk City, which is more of a cottage industry, is
home to more than 10000 weaving families in 100
villages. The fabric is marketed through the cooperative
society and APCO, the master weavers and the
business houses in Pochampally.

Khadi Streetwear
In India, Khadi is not just a cloth, it is a whole movement
started by Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi.
The Khadi movement promoted an ideology, an idea
that Indians could be self-reliant on cotton and be free
from the high priced goods and clothes which the British
were selling to them. The British would buy cotton from
India at cheap prices and export them to Britain where
they were woven to make clothes. These clothes were
then brought back to India to be sold at hefty prices.
The #Khadi movement aimed at boycotting foreign
goods including cotton and promoting Indian goods,
thereby improving India's economy. Mahatma Gandhi
began promoting the spinning of khd for rural self-
employment and self-reliance (instead of using cloth
manufactured industrially in Britain) in 1920s India thus
making khadi an integral part and icon of the Swadeshi
movement. The freedom struggle revolved around the
use of khd fabrics and the dumping of foreign-made
clothes. When some people complained about the
costliness of khadi to Mahatma Gandhi, he started
wearing only dhoti.
Khadi or Khaddar a term for handspun and hand-
woven cloth
from India, Bangladesh and Pakistan primarily made out
of cotton.
It is widely accepted in fashion circles.


Qalamkari is a type of hand-painted or block-
printed cotton textile, produced in parts of India and
in Iran. The word is derived from
the Persian words ghalam (pen)
and kari (craftmanship), meaning drawing with a pen
The Machilipatnam Kalamkari craft made
at Pedana near by Machilipatnam in Krishna
district, Andhra Pradesh, evolved with patronage of
the Mughals and the Golconda sultanate.
There are two distinctive styles of kalamkari art in India -
one, the Srikalahasti style and the other,
the Machilipatnam style of art. The Srikalahasti style of
Kalamkari, wherein the "kalam" or pen is used for free
hand drawing of the subject and filling in the colours, is
entirely hand worked. This style flowered around
temples and their patronage and so had an almost
religious identity - scrolls, temple
hangings, chariot banners and the like, depicted deities
and scenes taken from the great Hindu
epics Ramayana.Mahabarata, Puranas and the
mythological classics.

The concept of Golabama came into existence when
two artisans Ramdas & Konka sayulu, took the
inspiration from beautiful women carrying milk in a pot
on her head on the streets of SIDDIPET. They then
gave the design of this picture to the weavers who then
converted them on the saris. As their sari became
popular, it came to be known as a Golabama sari. This
took place during the 1940s. In 1980s ABCO revived
the art of weaving of Golabama saris.
The weavers are extremely talented at their work.
However it is hard to make ends meet. Weavers lack
credit, with little or no access to the market.
In 2010, due to their poor economic state, 200 weavers
committed suicide. The shifting of a generation of
weavers to various other sectors is leading to the death
of an age old craft. The Golabama sari with its unique
motif presents a dignified and authentic appeal to the
wearer. The sari is found in lightweight cotton & in silk in
a wide range of colors and is priced at very affordable
In our busy city lives we fail to realize the struggle and
sweat thats put into the production process of these
saris. Any form of help to the craft may come as a
blessing to more weavers than we can imagine.

Kutch Lehenga
Kutch work embroidery is one of the most easily
identifiable styles of embroidery from Gujarat and a well
patronised handicraft textile in India. Deriving its name
from its places of origin, the Kutch and Saurashtra
regions of Gujarat, Kutch embroidery is characterised by
the use of vibrant colors, mirrors, beads and intricately
extensive needlework that embellishes the entire fabric
on which it is based.
Usually done on cotton or silk fabric, Kutch work
embroidery involves the use of silk or woollen thread in
fine stitches to create elaborate patterns, and draws its
inspiration from romantic, architectural and human
motifs, as well as Persian and Mughal arts. The colors
used are mainly green, indigo, deep red, black, yellow
and ivory. The embroidery is also distinctive in its use of
mirrors and beads, placed strategically in between
patterns. A popular and recognised example of Kutch
embroidery is the ghagra choli (a traditional skirt and
blouse ensemble) of Gujarat, especially worn during the
Navaratri season.

Khadi Waistcoat
Khadi is a versatile fabric, cool in summers and
warm in winters. Being a cruder form of
material, it crumples much faster than other
preparations of cotton. In order to improve the
look, Khadi is often starched to have a stiffer
shape. It is widely accepted in fashion circles
these days.
Mahatma Gandhi began promoting the spinning
of Khadi for rural self-employment in 1920s in
India. He also wanted to spread the message of
not using foreign clothes. The freedom struggle
revolved around the use of Khadi fabrics and the
dumping of foreign-made clothes. Thus it
symbolized the political ideas and independence
itself, and to this day most politicians in India
are seen only in Khadi clothing. The flag of India
is technically only allowed to be made from this
For a trendy look, try wearing a khadi silk waistcoat over
a silk shirt and a pair of well-fitting jeans. Accessorise it
with a nice printed scarf or cravat. Woolen khadi jackets
can be sported in winters over shirts or tees.

Chikan is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow.
Literally translated, the word means embroidery.
Believed to have been introduced by Nur
Jehan, Mughal emperor Jahangir's wife,[1] it is one of
Lucknow's most famous textile decoration styles.
. It developed quickly during the period when
the Mughals ruled and consisted of styles inspired by
Persians. Lucknow grew into an international market for
its renowned Chikankari work. There are references to
Indian Chikan work as early as 3rd century BC
by Megasthenes, who mentioned the use of
flowered muslins by Indians. There is also a tale that
mentions how a traveler taught Chikankari to a peasant
in return of water to drink. However, the Noor Jahan
story is the most popular of the lot.[2] The name Chikan
has been derived from the Persian word Chakin or
Chikeen meaning a cloth wrought with needlework.
Chikan began as a type of white-on-white (or whitework)
Chikankari is a delicate and artfully done hand
embroidery on a variety of textile fabric like muslin, silk,
chiffon, organza, net etc. White thread is embroidered
on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton
garments. Nowadays chikan embroidery is also done
with coloured and silk threads in different colours to
meet the recent fashion trends and keep chikankari up-
to-date. Lucknow is the heart of the Chikankariindustry
today and the variety is known as Lucknawi chikan.
Chikankari or Chikan work in the recent times has also
adapted additional embellishments like Mukaish,
Kamdani, Badla, Kamdani, Sequin, bead and mirror
work, which gives it a rich look. Chikan embroidery is
mostly done on fabrics like, Cotton, Semi Georgette,
Pure Georgette, Crepe, Chiffon, Silk and any other
fabric which is light and which highlights the embroidery.
Also, it should be taken care of that the fabric is not too
thick or hard, else the embroidery needle won't pierce it.
The piece begins with the use of one or more pattern
blocks that are used to block-print a pattern on the
ground fabric. The embroiderer then stitches the
pattern, and the finished piece is carefully washed to
remove all traces of the printed pattern.

Kutch Anarkali
History traces the origin of Kutch work embroidery back
to mochis, the community of shoemakers, who used to
work on royal textiles and decorative objects. It is also
believed that this unique style of embroidery was
brought about by Kathi cattle breeders, a group of
wanderers associated with Karnaof the Mahabharat,
who eventually settled down to produce the
characteristic fine needlework displaying a plethora of
patterns, moods and themes.
Over the years, various clans around the region have
appropriated the essential features of Kutch embroidery
to create distinctive styles of their own, such as Rabari,
Ahir, Mochi and Mutwa.
Embroidery also communicates self and status.
Differences in style create and maintain
distinctions that identify community, sub-
community, and social status within community.
The "mirror work" of Kutch is really a myriad of
styles, which present a richly textured map of
regions and ethnic groups. Each style, a distinct
combination of stitches, patterns and colors, and
rules for using them, was shaped by historical,
socio-economic and cultural factors. Traditional
but never static, styles evolved over time,
responding to prevailing trends.

Khadi Fusion
In a textile historians words, Khadi is the only instance
of eco-viable, sustainable, luxury fabric in the world.
The innovative use of Khadi in mainstream fashion has
strongly influenced the image of what was once seen as
a drab fabric. New or old innovations, pristine or
dressed upthey are all adding up to change the big
picture. Younger designers have given Khadi a much-
needed edgy avatar.

Women can choose from khadi kurtas that are printed,
embroidered or have applique work done on them. They
can be worn over salwars, churidars or denims
depending on their preference
Short khadi kurtis look great with jeans, chinos or
khakis. You get them in bold colours, stripes as well as
with prints. Long khadi kurtas are more suited for formal
Khadi sarees are a huge hit abroad. Women can make
a big fashion statement by wearing a khadi cotton or silk

Khadi Corporate
Sixty-one years back our freedom fighters didn't know
they were making a fashion statement when they
donned the simple homespun yarn-khadi. Synonymous
with the politicos and the intelligentsia, khadi has now
found favour with corporates as well. The traditional
white kurtas have given way to varied colourful forms of
clothing that are comfortable and stylish.
Nothing beats the elegance of a white starched khadi
kurta. The sheer texture and fall of the fabric makes it
extremely attractive.

Kashida of Kashmir
Kashmiri embroidery is well known for the beauty of its
colour, texture, design and technique.
Probably, the best-known Indian embroidery is the 'Kashida
of Kashmir'.
Kashida embroidery, is as colorful and as beautiful as
Kashmir itself. Embroiderers often draw inspiration from
nature. Birds, blossoms and flowers, creepers, chinar leaves,
ghobi, mangoes, lotus, and trees are the most common
themes. The entire pattern is uses one or two embroidery
stitches. Kashida is primarily done on canvas with crystal
threads, but Kashida also employs pashmina and leather
Kashida embroidery, which is famous for its sheer beauty,
has attained the limits of fantasy and incredulity. Patterns and
color schemes are magnificently employed in Kashida by the
crafts-man with a mood aligned to the spirit of nature.
Kashmiri embroidery is practiced by men and it is essentially
a commercial craft.
According to Ramala S. Dongekery, the shawl industry in
Kashmir was introduced by Zain-ul-Abedin. Akbar was also
responsible for introducing a new type of shawl - the
Dowshala meaning Twin shawl. In this two similar shawls
were woven together, then sewn back to back so the under
surface of the shawls were not visible.
The crowning glory of crafts in Kashmir has to be the
Pashmina. Pashmina is the indigenous word for
cashmere, which is a term applied by European
colonialists to a fabric that was known primarily as a
product of Kashmir.

Gadwal & Dharmawaram
Nurtured in a small town called Gadwal in Andhra Pradesh, Gadwal
sari is known for its beautiful mix of fabric and designs. The entire
sari is made of cotton while its borders are designed in silk.
Attributing its designs to the temples and their architecture, one can
see beautiful and exotic shapes adorning the borders and body of
the sari. This sari in particular is the reason for a tremendous
growth in textile industries in Andhra Pradesh. Beautifully woven
and designed saris are now manufactured to increase the production
and to widen its popularity on a worldwide scale.
The Gadwal sarees were hand woven varieties of sari, which were
the main source of livelihood for the weavers of Andhra Pradesh.
Gadwal sarees were a big hit, right from the beginning. Hence,
some weavers from Gadwal were sent to Benaras by the king to
learn the art of weaving this particular style. The outcome was hand
woven variety of Gadwal saris that became immensely popular. In
the 1930s, the commercialization of Gadwal saris wherein the
spinning looms and other small manual machines came into
existence to help the weavers. Much later, textiles and handlooms
took over the entire commercialization of Gadwal sari.
Gadwal Saree is a mixture of cotton and silk, where the entire drape
is completely cotton-weaved and while, the borders are of silk. The
whole match up is done in such a way that one can wear these saris
for any occasion.
Dharmavaram is a small town of rich handloom cluster
situated in the District of Anantapur of Rayalaseema region in
A.P. Amongst the silk weaves the Dharmavaram silk sarees
are famous. Broad solid colours borders with contrast pallou
woven with brocaded gold patterns are the coveted wedding
sarees. Simpler patterns for every day use have the specialty
of being woven in two colours which give an effect of muted
double shades accentuated by the solid colour border and
pallove. Though the Dharmavaram sarees are some what
similar to Kanchipuram sarees of Tamilnadu, yet the muted
colours, the double shades create a total different effect.