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BUENOS

AIRES
GUIDE
SPRING IN
THE CITY
ALTERNATIVE
SOUVENIR
OCT-NOV 2014 | FREE magazine | N° 4
Thank you for picking up a copy of Playground Buenos Aires! As Spring is warming
up the city streets, we bring you own fourth edition of this new free city guide and
magazine. Please use us however you like: for tips, for the handy map at the back, take
us on a night out with your friends, or just thumb through our pages during a couple
bored hours on a bus or getting your ‘do fixed.
As the city comes alive with pretty colored blossom on the trees and the streets
become almost fragrant (when you get away from traffic) we’ve got a spring in our step
and have brought you a quintessential spring guide from dining al fresco and picking the
perfect bottle of white wine to finding the best walking tours around the city.
One of our resident shopaholics has selected your best spots for alternative souvenirs,
and we’ve got your guide to the best bookshops and Argentine authors too. If you are
looking to get out to Oktoberfest then check out our guide to the festival in nearby
Córdoba as well as a guide to beer bars in the city. If you prefer something with more
of a herbal kick, then we also have a novice’s guide to mate to help you get your head
and hand around this unique Argentine tradition.
As usual we hope to have crammed this magazine with useful tips and recommendations
so you can enjoy your time in Buenos Aires and Argentina. When you are done with your
Playground guide, please pass us on to the next user. We want to get around as much
as possible, so if you do like the magazine, pass it on to a friend, a neighbor, or anyone
that looks like they read a bit of English - the more hands on us the better! We are a
little bit trampish in that way.
Or if you want to pimp us out yourselves in your own restaurant or hotel, please drop us
an email and we’ll get some copies to you. We are free for everyone! We are also keen
to hear from eager writers, illustrators, artists and photographers who are interested in
collaborating in the future. And if you simply want to email us some feedback or some
of your own favourite playground game ideas, we’d love to hear from you!
Un beso!
Playground Buenos Aires
Editor | Amanda Barnes
editor@playgroundba.com
Design | Pablo Ortiz Avila
design@playgroundba.com
Distribution & Sales |
office@playgroundba.com
Playground Argentina S.A.,
Alicia Moreau de Justo 1848, Oficina 2
Buenos Aires, Argentina
www.playgroundba.com
Welcome to Playground Buenos Aires!
BUENOS AIRES IS YOUR
PLAYGROUND!
COME AND TRY THE BEST SPANISH
AND ARGENTINE JAMÓN IN BUENOS
AIRES AT MUSEO DEL JAMÓN!
Visit Museo del Jamón in Puerto Madero
for an excellent range of seafood,
meat dishes, homemade pasta, salads
and tapas. Try our unique specialties
including Suckling Pig, Salami and
Ham imported from Spain and the best
providers in Argentina, and Seafood
Fideuá. We hope to see you soon!
Open every day from 12 till 12
Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020
Puerto Madero (Dique 1) Bs. As.
(011) 4300-5418
info@museodeljamonpuerto.com
CONTENTS
5
A Stroll Through the City 06
Spring Poetry 09
Al Fresco Buenos Aires 10
Scribbles from a Somm 14
What Colour, Which Wine? 15
Top 5 Argentine Authors 17
A Bookworm’s Guide to BA 18
Alternative Souvenir Guide 20
An Almond Treat 22
Destination Guide 24
Artist in Profle 28
Prost or Salud? 31
Mate - An Argentine’s Best Friend 34
Top 5 36
Porteño Profle 39
Restaurant Guide 40
Bar & Café Guide 44
Playground Tips 46
Map 48
Where to Find Us 50
Walking Tours in BA
Our lover comes back
Top Terraces and Gardens for Spring Cocktails
White Wines for Warm Nights
A beginner’s guide to the different coloured wines
A pick of the authors to read while in BA
The best bookshops to visit
A pick of some unusual mementos
An addict’s guide to Almond croissants in the city
Puerto Madryn
Florencia Della Vedova
Oktoberfest in Argentina
A guide to drinking Mate
BA Fashion Designers
Meeting the locals
Top spots to eat in the city
Where to drink and be marry
Useful Info for being in Buenos Aires
Where to get free copies
A STROLL
THROUGH
THE CITY
Walking tours in BA
A STROLL
Walking tours in BA
THROUGH THROU
THE CITY E CITY
tours in BA
THROU
C
‘It’s Spring in Buenos Aires,
which means we’re that much
closer to those epic Argentine
summers: abundant sun,
cloudless skies, personal puddle
inducing humidity, and sub-
tropical climates that may
inspire you to stay inside and
tethered to the air conditioning.
Before it gets too hot this season,
take the time to check out a few
of the great walking tours that
Buenos Aires has to offer. Here
are a few standout tours:
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DECODING BA’S GRAFFITI
Graffitimundo (www.graffitimundo.com) is a
non-profit organization that provides tours on the
history of Buenos Aires street art. For $25 USD they’ll
take you all over the city to see some of the most
iconic work by local and international graffiti artists.
You’ll learn about the political climate and inspiration
for the art, visit a great bar called Post, where you can
meet some of the graffiti artists and buy their work;
and even potentially visit some of the artists at their
studio in Villa Crespo.
The tour is in English and is led by knowledgeable and
charismatic tour guides who are passionate about
urban art and supporting local artists. After going
on this tour, I couldn’t stop raving about the artwork
I had seen to my friends. I learned so much about
Argentina’s history and now have a new favorite bar,
which I’ve been to three times in the last month to
enjoy the art and free popcorn.
SPOTTING STREET ART
Another great artsy option is Buenos Aires Street Art
and Graffitti Tour (www.buenosairesstreetart.com)
On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 2.20pm you
can discover why Buenos Aires is one of the street art
capitals of the world. Walking through Villa Urquiza and
Coghlan Art District and local neighborhoods that aren’t
in the tourist guidebooks, you’ll see expansive murals
by local and international artists, including Blu, Martin
Ron and Fintan Magee.
The Buenos Aires Street Art Tour is a great way to
explore different parts of the city with expert guides
and learn about the origins of these incredible designs.
For $20 USD you get a 2.5 hour tour, but for just a little
bit more you can also experience a private aerosol class
with a local artist.
A HISTORIC CITY TOUR
Prefer history to art? Buenos Aires Free Tour (www.
bafreetour.com) offers a daily downtown tour at 11 a.m.
led by local guides that will teach you about the history
and culture of Buenos Aires. While on the tour, you’ll see
everything from the National Congress, the obelisk,
Plaza de Mayo, Cafe Tortoni, Calle Florida, to Casa
Rosada. The tour guides excel at making the tour feel
incredibly relevant, connecting buildings, landmarks, and
past events to the politics and protests of present day.
At 5:00 p.m., Buenos Aires Free Tour also offers an
“Aristocratic Tour,” which allows you to see additional
sites like the famous Recoleta Cemetery, Plaza San
Martin and the Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar. Both
of these tours ensure that you see a lot of city in a
short amount of time. Come prepared to hit the
7
Grafftimundo - “Cabaio”
BA Street Art - Martin Ron
Painting aeroplane pulling Chaqueño’s hair
Grafftimundo - Ever
Grafftimundo - “Gualicho”
Teatro Colón
pavement by wearing good walking shoes, bringing
a bottle of water and a snack (these tours go without
stopping for about 2.5 hours); extra money for tipping
your guide, and a sense of humor; which you’ll need for
some of the cornier jokes on the tour.
WALKING THE BIG CITY
City Walkers (www.citywalkers.com.ar) also offers
a good free 11 a.m. tour Monday through Saturday
starting from the Obelisk downtown. They cover many
of the same sights as Buenos Aires Free Tour, but also
hit up Puerto Madero and Teatro Colón. For a fee, City
Walkers can also organize a guided tour for you and a
group around San Telmo and La Boca. These are iconic
parts of the city, imbued with history and old Buenos
Aires charm; but are often overlooked by tour groups
because they are more difficult to access and farther
from the downtown and more hotel abundant areas of
the city.
Walking tours are a great way to see and experience
the city, while injecting some light exercise into your
day between helpings of steak and alfajores. And
whichever tour you choose, you’ll be sure to be
impressed by the ageless beauty of Buenos Aires.
Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada
City Walkers
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Poem by Sol Cifre
When we hope our lover comes back
and hold our hands again.
When we wish for eternal days of flowers
and the scent of a fresh sunrise.
When our eyelids taste the wonderful breeze
and recall tender memories.
When we think our lives can start anew.
A moment of hope: Spring.
Pedlars walk aimlessly
and they don’t mind.
Cyclists ride at their own speed
and they don’t mind either.
It all flows so smoothly!
The merry-go-round is crowded
with smiles and laughter
small fingers waving at their parents.
A moment of leisure: Spring.
Walking up for work is not even a burden now,
the sky is waiting
and a brand new spring day sprinkles us with joy.
11
W
hile it’s not quite jacaranda season just yet
– the true indicator that spring has officially
sprung and summer is well on her way – it’s
not far off. And that means it’s time to round up the
best outdoor spaces in Buenos Aires for sipping and
supping. Lofty terraces, blooming gardens and sweet
patios – sample the wares, choose a favourite and
make it your outdoor lounge this summer.
So what if the lush foliage and tropical blooms don’t
exactly belong to you, there’s nothing wrong with
sipping on some fruity gem of a cocktail while pre-
tending to be the lady of the manor. Just don’t stuff
shears into your purse or start de-heading flowers.
Do, however, make a beeline for gorgeous urban
gardens bursting with flora and fauna, the perfect
antidote to forgetting you’re in the middle of the
sprawling city.
HOW DOES YOUR GARDEN GROW?
Best gardens for Contrary Marys include Home Hotel
(Honduras 5860, Palermo), whose cool low-rise
furniture, abundance of flowers and fruit trees and
poolside location make it a number-one spot in Palermo
Hollywood for an aperétif. Created by landscape designer
Chunchuna Villafañe and gardener Clara Rivello, native
plants nestle alongside an English-style garden for a lush
yet wild effect. A riot of colour in summer, Home’s green
oasis also holds spades in the aromas department, thanks
to jasmine, lady of the night, several varieties of sage,
orchids, honeysuckle, begonias, roses and hydrangeas.
Staying in the same neighbourhood, the Fierro Hotel’s
(Soler 5862, Palermo) back garden is home to a lovely
pristine lawn and herb garden, whose produce heads
straight into the kitchen. Kick back on the large white sofa
next to the palm trees or take weekend brunch on the
deck: this hotel’s bar is also one of the few in the city to
stock that quintessential summer beverage, Pimm’s.
Olsen’s (Gorriti 5870, Palermo) Scandinavian-style
garden – with a water feature and plenty of wood – is also
a great spot with sufficient shade and Nordic edge. While
feelings are mixed about the brunch, it is still as popular
as ever so be sure to book a table. Over in Palermo Soho,
if you can wrangle your way into private members’ space
The Clubhouse (corner of Costa Rica and Gurruchaga,
Palermo) or are happy to fork out for membership, this
is one of the most gorgeous and lush gardens in the
city. With a perfect 10 of a lawn and a stunning outdoor
swimming-pool to boot, this is the place to sip and dip.
Recoleta also houses a plush and beautiful garden at the
Palacio Duhau (Alvear 1661, Recoleta). While you can’t
dine right on this wavy lawn, you can pitch up next to it
for afternoon tea at Piano Nobile or for a cocktail from The
Home Hotel - Garden
Fierro by Jocelyn Mandryk
Home Hotel - Pool
The Clubhouse - Garden bar
The Clubhouse - Terrace


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DESIGNER p.ortiz.avila@gmail.com
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Oak Bar. The Palacio is old school glamour in the city’s
swankiest neighbourhood.
PERFECT PATIOS
There’s a patio for every day of the week and every month
of the year in Buenos Aires, meeting brunch, cocktail or
supper needs. One of the slickest urban patios is at Verne
Club (Medrano 1475, Palermo), which has received quite
the makeover since its 2013 opening. Mood lighting, love
benches and ample foliage, this is a sultry outdoor corner
of Palermo that smokers and serious cocktail appreciators
will fall for.
While Milión (Paraná 1048, Recoleta) has been around
for donkeys years, that’s not to say it’s lost its touch,
far from it. Rub shoulders with a smart crowd keen for
foreign connections in one of the most stunning belle
époque mansions open for public consumption. Those
with cash to splash should dine out at the ground floor
restaurant; if your exchange rate was more bust than
boom, then grab a delicious frozen basil daiquiri and linger
on the well-kempt marble stairway outside. The green
glass of deliciousness will just about last the evening.
For a simpler affair that takes in a lunch or tea with every
last crumb made in house by owner Cusi, the answer
is Palermo Hollywood’s Cusic café (El Salvador 1016,
Palermo). With two cute outdoor patios, nestle under the
drooping trees at the front or nab the recycled furniture
and comfy cushions on the more private back patio that is
bursting with herbs. We love the huevos mareados brunch
dish, comprising a dainty fruit platter on English china
(is there any other kind?), a vast mug of coffee, hand-
squeezed orange juice plus scrambled eggs and smoked
salmon.
In Monserrat, La panadería de Pablo (Defensa 269, San
Telmo/Montserrat) is a stylish bet for a decent lunch.
Order some starters such as the burrata cheese and kick
back next to the exposed brick and leafy wall under the
pergola. The panadería also holds a stunning terrace
secret up its sleeve, the scene of many a High On The
Roof dance party – this third floor terrace’s focal point is
the outdoor pool but of greater interest is the stunning
18th century San Francisco basilica almost within tou-
ching distance.
TOP TERRACES
As for tip-top terraces, the gamut runs much wider with
hip watering-holes, French bistros and posh hotels all
throwing down the gauntlet in a bid to capture outdoor
eaters and drinkers. Snug booths are the name of the
game at Rey de Copas’ (Gorriti 5176, Palermo) first floor
terrace, which made its début this past winter. Order a
Cynar Julep and settle in for the evening with a gang of
Post Street Bar (Thames 1885, Palermo)
Verne Club
La Panadería de Pablo
Rey de Copas
Duhau Terraces


PABLO
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friends. And although we’d rather not tempt fate, there
are plenty of standalone heaters to keep spring chills
away.
Two great spots but with slightly rougher edges to them
are Post Street Bar (Thames 1885, Palermo) and La
esperanza de los Ascurra (Fitz Roy 1818, Palermo).
Check in at Post Street for a beer and head upstairs to its
well-graffitied terrace adorned with hundreds of familiar
stencils and characters from the repertoire of local street
artists. At La esperanza not a huge amount of love has
gone into its similar shaped rooftop but as beer runs
cheap (Spanish style, in small cañas) and the tapas are
the real deal, we can forgive them the oversight.
For a different kind of drinking experience, set up camp
but without the tent at Camping (Pueyrredón 2501,
Recoleta). With a cafeteria-on-a-campsite vibe, a trifle
odd at the upmarket Design Centre in posh Recoleta,
this summer will tell whether the self-service style
so common in British pubs will work out in BA. In the
meantime, sup on a red beer from local Martínez brewer
Siete Colores, tap into Camping’s very cool and clever
virtual jukebox and enjoy oxygen from the lush potted
plants doing their bit for nearby Figueroa Alcorta Avenue’s
carbon footprint.
Lucky guests staying at Recoleta’s upmarket Hub
Porteño (Rodríguez Pena 1967, Recoleta) will love the
boutique hotel’s fourth floor. A lot of love has gone into
its vertical garden and gorgeous gazebo, perfect to take
refuge from the penetrating sun with a cooling cocktail at
hand. Hub also organises pop-up events, which is when
mere mortals get to share some of the love.
Then there are two delicious brunch spots both dealing in
suntrap terraces: L’atelier de Céline (Carlos Calvos 242,
San Telmo) has a cute yet spacious terrace dating back
to 1807 decorated with darling fairy lights, while Decata’s
(Honduras 6100, Palermo) comfy and enormous sofas
have made many punters lose track of an afternoon.
For a shop then pop (it into your mouth) experience, dip
into the Pick Market (Ugarteche 3154, Palermo) in
Palermo Botánico. With an extremely decent array of
charcuterie, breads and deli fodder, select and pay before
heading upstairs to the tranquil terrace with pub-style
benches. You also pay vinoteca prices on wine, so grab a
cool bottle of rosé from the chiller to pep up your picnic.
Another spot to keep an eye out for is Blanch’s (Carranza
2181, Palermo) new terrace. After their recent move from
Las Cañitas to Palermo Hollywood, owners Diego and
Ale have their sights set on making their upstairs so cool,
comfy and irresistible that sipping an aperétif will soon
morph into dinner. Due to open end of September.
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Scribbles from a Somm...
Doña Paula Riesling 2013 by Doña Paula $102
This wine is a bit uncommon of the typical varietals produced in Argentina. There are very few
wineries that sell Riesling, but it is a very interesting wine: with aromas of white fowers and
some really subtle citrus notes, with a very nice acidity. Special and entertaining. This wine also
shows Doña Paula’s openness towards creative horizons.
Tomero Reserva Semillón 2012 by Bodega Vistalba $120
With captivating aromas this wine does not go unnoticed. It is a beautiful white wine, which
has a golden yellow color; in the nose combining forals and notes of vanilla. The palate is
very subtle and elegant medium intensity. Captivating, friendly, worth trying. Because I enjoy it,
I defnitely recommend it!
Alta Vista Premium Torrontés 2013 by Alta Vista $110
Although the winery is located in Mendoza, this wine comes from Salta Cafayate. It is a beautiful bright yellow. It
is a wine that I love to smell, and I never tire of doing so; it presents fruity and foral aromas. It has a pleasant
freshness in the mouth. In this case, we are dealing with a characteristic variety of Argentina, and in my view it is a
good example of it. I hope I at least tempted you to try it, and truly hope that you relish it!
Rama Negra Chardonnay 2013 by Casarena $85
A neatly appealing wine, that is a great choice for the price it presents. Chardonnay is the queen of white varieties,
and well expressed by Casarena winery. A subtly golden yellow, which combines tropical fruit and citrus fruits aromas
as well as nicely integrated with oak. With a good presence on the palate and a lingering fnish, I consider it a
great friend for Spring, and I hope you will agree.
Pulenta Sauvignon Blanc 2013 by Pulenta Estate $100
The freshness and subtlety are present. In this case, we are faced with a white wine, with light
green fashes. A pleasant aromatic intensity, citrus notes stand out, especially grapefruit. A medium
intensity and balanced acidity make it a pleasant and easy to drink. A good example of a
Sauvignon Blanc from Argentina; worthy of being appreciated.
I really wish you have a beautiful spring and hopefully you
will be with some of these alternatives! Until the next season!
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Captivating whites for less than $15USD !
Summer is coming and, at least in my opinion, there are more
important things than getting in shape! Looking good is not
just a matter of appearance; happiness also makes us look
more beautiful. So, in my opinion, keeping good white wine
options at reasonable prices in the fridge is a nice idea for
these beautiful warm spring afternoons. Spring, here we come!
Have you ever wondered why white wine is white, and
red wine is red (or sometimes purple)? It seems obvious
to say that white wine is made from white grapes, and
red wine is made from red grapes. And that answer
is pretty much correct, although now what about pink
wine? Pink grapes?! And what if I told you that you can
make a white wine from a red grape? All of a sudden
your artist’s palate of grapes looks a little more muddled…
As a general rule white wine comes from white grapes
(although let’s be honest it looks more yellow than
white, and the grapes were originally green) and red
wine comes from red grapes. What makes these wines
different? The colour of the skins, and the properties that
the skins have. White grape skins are generally not used
for very long in the winemaking process. The grapes are
picked, the juice is squeezed out and after fermenting the
juice, hey presto, you have a white wine!
Red wine has a slightly different process. The dark
coloured grape skins contain certain components that add
colour, aroma, tannins and structure to a wine - properties
often desirable in a red wine. So once you pick the
grapes, instead of squeezing the juice instantly, you leave
the juice, pips and skins all in the same container for a
while (anywhere from a week to a month!) so the juice
gets all the properties of the skins, and then you squeeze
out the juice and are left with a red juice that makes red
wine. Easy.
Now how about pink, and white red? For pink (aka blush
or rosé) you just pick your red grapes as usually and only
leave the red skins in contact with the juice for a few
hours or maybe a couple days, meaning that the clear or
white juice has only been lightly coloured by the skins
and has just a little bit of structure. After a short amount
of time, you squeeze the juice out and this now slightly
pink or salmon-coloured juice becomes rosé wine.
For white red wine (see the white Malbec on the opposi-
te page), you squeeze the juice from the grape immedia-
tely so there is little skin contact. Almost all grapes have a
clear juice so you can make white wine from red grapes.
If you think of champagne, a large proportion of the
grapes used for champagne are red grapes, Pinot Noir.
Although in Champagne they are almost always turned
into white wine.
Sadly it doesn’t work in the reverse – and you can’t really
15
Amanda Barnes is a British wine writer based
in South America who has been tasting her way
through the region’s colour spectrum and wines
for five years. You can read more of her wine and
travel articles at www.amandabarnes.co.uk
@amanda_tweeter
make white grapes go red (adding
food colouring is quite illegal…)
Although in some cases a white
grape will turn pinky red when you
leave it in the sun too long. But as
the general rule, white grapes make
white wines, red grapes make red
wines, although sometimes red
grapes make pink and white wines.
And what about all the shades in
between? The purple, black, ruby
and orange? That has to do with the
different varieties (each has a slightly
different colour), and the aging
and extraction process… I’ll leave
that one for another day, or at least
another bottle of wine!
C
O
M
IN
G
S
O
O
N
Julio Cortázar, essayist, novelist, and short story writer,
was one of the most significant figures during the boom
of 20th century Latin American literature. Cortazar’s use of
interior monologue and linear versus non-linear conceptions
of time has left future authors indebted to his work.
Top Reads | Hopscotch, Manuel for Manuel, Blow-Up
The early 20th century poet Alfonsina Storni wrote poems
full of cynicism and irony based on her frustrations with love
and attraction. Through her poetry and public image, Storni
gave a voice to gender inequality issues, such as granting
women’s right to vote.
Top Reads | And the Head Began to Burn, Supertelephone,
You Want Me White
Rachel Davies came to Argentina for her
love of literature and is spending a year
studying the different writers and voices
of the country. You can read her travel blog
www.rachelrevels.blogspot.com.ar
Perhaps the most famous of all, Jorge Luis Borges is a short
story writer, poet, and essayist who is credited to have
started the magical realism trend of the late 20th century
boom in Latin America.
Top Reads | Fictions, The Aleph
Griselda Gambaro, most celebrated for her plays, spoke out
against the Dirty War in Argentina through fiction. As a result,
her novel, Ganarse la muerte, was banned in Argentina for
its obvious rebellion and she was exiled to Spain.
Top Reads | The Camp, The Impenetrable Madame X,
Information for Foreigners
Another important woman on the literature scene,
novelist Luisa Valenzuela published her first short story at
age eighteen and hasn’t stopped writing since. Known for
her political satire and fearlessness to write about the erotic,
Valenzuela uses literature to remember the events the
government would rather have you forget.
Top Reads | Strange Things Happen Here, Clara,
The Lizard’s Tail
B
efore you leave Argentina, be
sure to pick up some of the great
literature that has ben produced in
this cultural country. Rachel Davies
picks a list of the Top 5 Argentine
writers to try before you fly!
ARGENTINE
WRITERS TO TRY
BEFORE YOU FLY
1.BORGES 4.CORTÁZAR
5.STORNI
2.GAMBARO
3.VALENZUELA
TOP 5
17
CRACK UP
This Palermo based bookshop not only stocks a vast
array of local and international reads but also includes an
intimate bar/cafe, where you can sit and read one of your
favourites whilst sipping on a large glass of Malbec and
enjoying some yummy food. The bookshop also hosts
regular workshops if you’re looking to tighten your grasp
of the local language (and its literature.)
EL ATENEO (GRAND SPLENDID)
When mentioning bookshops in Buenos Aires, El Ateneo
is certainly one of the most celebrated; voted second
most beautiful bookshop in the world by The Guardian
newspaper in the UK just a few years ago. The theatre
turned bookshop has visitors continually passing through
its wide doors to gaze upon a stunning collection of
books, under beautifully painted ceilings and detailed
cornices. Readers can be found sipping on a ‘cortado’ in
the cafe that sits on what would have been ‘the stage’, or
snuggled away in one of the theatre’s original boxes.

WALRUS BOOKS
This small yet ample bookshop mostly stocks second
hand books in English and is popular with visitors and
locals alike. Walrus Books is also well known for its
English speaking classes that include: creative writing,
book reviews and even a look at the art of ‘poetry slam’.
Costa Rica 4767, Palermo
11 4831 3502
www.crackup.com.ar
Mon / Sun 10am – 9pm
Sante Fe 1860, Recoleta
11 4813 6052
www.yenny-elateneo.com
Mon / Thurs 9am - 10pm
Fri & Sat 9am-11pm
Sun Middday-10pm

Estados Unidos 617, San Telmo
11 4300 7135
www.walrus-books.com.ar
Tues / Sun Midday - 8pm
Claire Mc Keever
Coming from a small coastal town in
Ireland, Claire fell in love with travelling at
a young age and now lives in Buenos Aires
working as a writer and in marketing. You
can follow her life and travel stories at
herworldseyeview.tumblr.com
LIBROS DEL PASAJE
You could easily spend a whole afternoon rifling through
books and feasting on cake at this warm and inviting
bookshop. The scaling bookshelves and quaint, well-lit
cafe/bar at the back, will allow you to forget the world
outside and enjoy a bit of downtime.

NUEVA LIBERIA
This narrow little bookshop stocks a great range of books,
including a humble yet excellent shelf of reasonably
priced English titles. It is also conveniently located beside
Cafe Rivas, an intimate and idyllic spot to enjoy any new
literature you may have purchased.
ETERNA CADENCIA
Eterna Cadencia is another killer combination of bar/cafe/
bookshop. Once past its deceptively small exterior, you’re
met by an impressive range of books in varied languages
and a quaint outside space to relax for a few hours with
a drink or two. The bookshop now publishes books of its
own and hosts impressive literary events throughout the
year.
Thames 1762, Palermo
www.librosdelpasaje.com.ar
Mon - Sat - 10am - 10pm
Sundays / Holidays - 2pm - 9pm
Estados Unidos 301, San Telmo
www.nuevalibreria.com.ar
Sun / Fri 9am - 7pm
Honduras 5582, Palermo Hollywood
www.eternacadencia.com
Mon / Fri 10am - 9pm
Sat 11.30am - 9pm
Sun Closed
IF THE IDEA OF GETTING LOST IN A ROW
OF BOOKSHELVES AND/OR BURYING YOUR
NOSE IN A GOOD READ SOUNDS
APPEALING THEN YOU’LL HOPEFULLY
ENJOY OUR PICK OF BUENOS AIRES’S
MOST ENTICING BOOKSHOPS, OR
LIBRERÍAS AS THEY’RE KNOWN HERE.
19
SCENT OF ARGENTINA IN A BOTTLE
Local artisan perfume laboratory
Fueguia produces its own
fragrances, inspired by the history,
nature and legends of Argentina.
Each unique multi-layered scent is
carefully concocted in their Palermo
perfume laboratory, from notes of the
glaciers of El Calafate to hints of
dulce de leche, Malbec and the
Pampas grasslands. Sniff and smell
your way through the heady array of
poetically-named scents in their chic
Recoleta boutique until you find one
to your liking that comes packaged in
a glass bottle and handmade wooden
boxes. Scented candles, room sprays
and mini handbag-sized roll on
perfumes are also available.
Fueguia, Avenida Alvear 1680,
Recoleta, Tel: 11 4311 5360,
www.fueguia.com
BYO BAG
Transport your favourite bottle of
Malbec home in style (and any
subsequent bottles of wine) in one of
Vintium's leather bags, designed
specifically to carry bottles of wine.
The bags are all handcrafted from
buttery soft cow leather and come in
a range of sizes, from colourful one-
bottle bags to six bottle compartment
picnic bags for those espumante
picnics in the park. Vintium's bags
I
f you're looking for a special memento from your Buenos
Aires jaunt, something distinctly Argentine that's a notch
up from the standard football shirts, mate cups, dulce de
leche and tango paraphernalia, here are our picks for some
alternative souvenirs to take home.
Sophie Lloyd is a personal shopper who has been scouting
her way around the many shops and designers of Buenos
Aires for over 4 years. She offers customized, private shopping
tours, group shopping tours, customized shopping itineraries,
personal shopping/gift services and even wardrobe edits with
her business www.shop-buenosaires.com. Email Sophie at
infoshopbuenosaires@gmail.com (11) 3921 0460.
are available in a number of wineries
around town or make an appointment
with the Uruguayan-born designer
herself Paola Castro to view the
collection in her private showroom.
While you're there, you can browse
her stylish new line of leather
handbags.
Vintium, private showroom, by
appointment only, email
vintiumbags@gmail.com,
Cell: 9 11 59775315
www.vintium.com
A VINTAGE PORTRAIT
Step back in time and say cheese for
the old-school camera at Studio Fotín
and take home a unique vintage-style
portrait of yourself (and your holiday
buddy). The studio run by Argentine
photographer Juan Barrientos and his
partner Meghan Stone recreates one
of the first photographic processes,
wet plate collodion, that dates back
to 1850, producing unique ambrotype
portraits that are instantly developed
on glass plates. Adding to the
experience, the private, appointment-
only studio is situated in a charming
old San Telmo house.
Studio Fotín, by appointment only,
info@studiofotin.com,
studiofotin.com
A PIECE OF BA'S STREET ART
Unless you've walked around the city
with your eyes closed, you've surely
noticed Buenos Aires' vibrant street
art scene. Arts organisation Graffiti
Mundo is at the forefront of the
scene, providing a platform for young
urban artists from Buenos Aires and
the rest of South America to
showcase their talents. If you like
what you've seen on the street,
join one of their tours or make an
appointment to visit their edgy
gallery space and artists' studio in a
beautifully-restored historic building
in San Telmo and take home a piece
of affordable artwork from one of
their artists. You can also commission
your favorite street artist to create
your very own work of art.
Galeria Union, Carlos Calvo 736,
San Telmo, by appointment only,
Cel: 9 11 3683 3219, galeriaunion.
com / graffitimundo.com
HANDKNITTED WITH LOVE
Leather aside, Argentina's lands
are rich in other fine materials such
as wool hand spun from flocks of
sheep deep in the Chubut province
of Patagonia. Pay a visit to the newly
opened private showroom of local
label URSA that employs traditional
craft techniques with a modern touch
in the production of handknitted
sweaters, vests and blankets, hand-
dyed in a fresh palette of colours.
Founder and designer Liz Gleeson
(originally from the US) works with
indigenous communities in the south
of Argentina as well as local urban
knitting cooperatives in the
production of her limited edition
collections to help them create a
better, more sustainable existence.
She also does a range of funky hand-
printed home textiles.
URSA showroom, by appointment
only, Abasto, info@cyberursa.com,
www.cyberursa.com
21
URSA
Graftti Mundo
Studio Fotín
Vintium’s
Fueguia
SASHA
Sasha is a cute café in Recoleta where you can enjoy a meal
or get baked goods to go. The almond croissants here are
quite large, big enough to share if you’re not very hungry.
They are really rich with a lot of tasty almond filling and a
generous topping of powdered sugar, if you’re all about
huge almond flavor this is the pastry for you. They have a full
menu here if you’re looking for more than just bakery items.
Juncal 2110, Recoleta, 11 4823-3745, Mon / Sat 7am - 9:30pm
An almond
treat on the
streets of
Buenos
Aires
O
ne thing that’s hard to miss when you come
to Buenos Aires is their facturas (pastries). It
seems as if there is a bakery on every other
corner in some neighborhoods. The most common
factura you will come across in Buenos Aires is the
medialuna. Medialunas are great for breakfast or
merienda (afternoon snack/tea), but now you have
another option. Almond croissants! With an increase
in French bakeries in Buenos Aires you can now get
your fill of French delicacies like pan au chocolate
and almond croissants in the city often dubbed the
Paris of South America.
These French pastries are often a richer version of
a croissant with a sweet almond filling. They are
usually baked with sliced almonds on top and then
dusted with powdered sugar, the recipes vary but
they are all worth a taste. You will usually see them
on menus as croissant de/con almendras. So take a
break during your explorations to stop and enjoy a
new local favorite!
Beth Delthony is a lawyer turned travel writer
who has been busy exploring South America
for the past few years. Check out more of
her food, wine and other adventures on her
website. Planning a trip, ask her for tips!
www.SantiagoTourist.com
@BethDelthony
Almond Croissants
Compañia de Chocolates Storefron
23
COMPAÑIA DE CHOCOLATES
Compañia de Chocolates helpfully has a couple location
where you can stop in to get one of their almond croissants.
The croissants here are also big enough to share, and are
quite filling with a ton of almond slices baked onto the top
under a dusting of powdered sugar. If you prefer a sit down
café environment head to their locations in Palermo Chico or
Martinez where they have a cafe in addition to their bakery.
www.companiadechocolates.com
Rodriguez Peña 1847, 11 4813-9434, Mon / Sat
10am - 7pm, Sun 11am-6pm
Emilio Lamarca 397, 11 4793-3886, Mon / Sun
8:30am - 9pm
Juan Francisco Segui 3551, 11 4801-1339, Mon / Sun
8:30am - 8:30pm
L’EPI BOULANGERIE
For a snack size almond croissant head to L’epi Boulangerie.
Theirs are half the size as most of the others and luckily
about half the price. This version a little lighter on the filling
and the toppings but will still fill your sweet snacking
desires, or you can pick up a few if you’re hungry. They are
only a bakery but they have 3 bakeries around the city
including their newly opened shop in Belgrano.
www.lepi.com.ar
Roseti 1769, 11 4552 6402, Tue / Sat 7:30am - 7:30pm
Sun 9am - 1pm
Montevideo 1567, 11 4812 1390, Tue / Sat 8:00am - 8pm
Sun 9am - 1pm
Crámer 2439, 11 4545-6154, Mon / Sat 7:30am - 8:30pm
MALVÓN
Malvón is a popular breakfast and lunch spot but they also
have a lot of baked goods that you can order to go or enjoy
in their café. Their almond croissants are medium sized, they
also taste a bit more like a regular croissant with a flakier
consistency, but don’t worry they still filled with sweet
almond goodness. Based on size vs price these are the best
bang for your buck.
www.malvonba.com.ar
Serrano 789, 11 4807-1458, Sun / Mon 8:30 am - 8:30 pm,
Tue / Sat 8:30 am - 12:00 am
LE MOULIN DE LA FLEUR
Last but not least is Le Moulin De La Fleur, a newcomer to
the French Bakery scene in Buenos Aires. This almond crois-
sant is the most croissant like. It’s a medium sized buttery
croissant with a nice hint of almond flavor and much lighter
than some of the other versions. They also offer delivery to a
limited area, if you prefer your breakfast in bed.
Talcahuano 888, 11 4811-7509, Mon / Fri 8am - 8pm limited
delivery to Recoleta, Tribunales, Retiro, Barrio Norte, delivery
hours Mon / Sat 8:30am-5pm
CROISSANTS TO MARKET!
Some of these bakeries also have stands at local markets.
Look for them at Le Petit Mercado de Buenos Aires, a
French themed market held in various locations throughout
the year. Additionally you can find some at the Buenos
Aires Market which is held one weekend every month in a
changing location.
www.facebook.com/pages/Le-Petit-Mercado-
de-Buenos-Aires
www.buenosairesmarket.com
So try one or try them all, they make a great breakfast,
afternoon snack, or anytime treat to fill your sweet almond
cravings. Do note that since these are bakeries daily supplies
are limited so it’s best to go earlier in the day to ensure you
get your almond goodness. If you’re looking for fresh breads
or other French pastries they all carry an assortment of other
baked goods as well, so you’re sure to find something you
love.
L’epi Boulangerie Almond Croissants
Malvón Almond Croissants
Le Moulin De La Fleur Almond Croissants
DESTINATION GUIDE / PUERTO MADRYN
T
his time in Spring is one of
the best times to see some of
Argentina’s biggest and most
revered residents: whales. Puerto
Madryn is the preferred Spring and
Summer destination for whales
in this part of the world, and it is
also home to a host of other local
inhabitants including seals, sea
lions, many different birds and land
animals. Puerto Madryn is a wildlife-
enthusiast’s haven and offers
outdoor activities for those looking
for a bit more action.
THE RESIDENTS //////////////
Most people make it out to this part of Patagonia
to see the local wildlife. Here are some of the most
famous residents:
WHALES //////////////////////////////
From June till December Southern Right Whales
move into the shores and can sometimes be seen
straight from the shore, but are best viewed from
nearby Peninsula Valdes or from boat trips. One
kayaker earlier this year had a very close encounter
with a whale when their kayak was lifted and
taken for a ride, type ‘whale kayak argentina’ into
Youtube to see this once-in-a-lifetime experience!
You probably won’t be so lucky to get swept up by a
whale during your time here, but during the season
this is one of the best whale spotting sites in the
world.
ORCAS ////////////////////////////////
The darting black fins of Orcas can be seen
swishing through the seas between September till
about April. The best spot to view them is from the
northern tip of Peninsula Valdes.
SEA LIONS //////////////////////////
All year round you can see the playful elephant
seals near Puerto Madryn. Large swarms populate
certain spots like Punta Lomo and Punta Tombo
and as summer time approaches you’ll even see
the new pups out to play. Perhaps one of the best
experiences in Puerto Madryn is the chance to
play in the water with the sea lions where you can
snorkel or dive with them and potentially even give
one of them a sloppy kiss. Contact Lobos Larcen
Buceo (www.lobolarsen.com) to book your date
with these lively sea creatures any time of the year.
BIRDS //////////////////////////////////
Puerto Madryn and the surrounding areas are
filled with lots of seabirds including dolphin gulls,
southern giant petrels, oystercatchers, steamer
ducks, cormorants and snowy sheathbills. Many
birds migrate on long voyages to get here, however
all year round you’ll find life in the skies.
Whale
Orcas
Sea lion
PENÍNSULA VALDÉS /////////
One of the main attractions in the area, this
peninsula is the hot spot for whale watching when
during October it is common to see whales as large
as 35 tons breach and spurt out water in a crowd-
pleasing display from the shore line or on a quick
boat excursion. There are beautiful walking routes
around the peninsula and kayaking trips are also
popular, as well as the many boat trips that depart
from the main bay.
If you want to lengthen your interaction with the
native residents you can stay over night at one of
the handful of accommodation options in Península
Valdés, mainly in Puerto Pirámides - the small
center of the area. Otherwise it is reachable by a
full day tour from Puerto Madryn, which is about
60kms away.
PENGUINS //////////////////////////
The famous flightless bird also resides in Puerto
Madryn. The males all arrive in around August, with
the females soon following and a highlight is seeing
the new chicks hatch in November. Punta Tombo
is the hotspot for penguins in Puerto Madryn with
almost 500,000 penguins.
THE LOCATIONS /////////////
PUERTO MADRYN //////////////
The main city and hub of action in the area, Puerto
Madryn is filled with hotels, bars and restaurants.
If you are catching the bus you’ll most likely arrive
here, and if you are flying into Trelew there is a
regular shuttle service here. While there is plenty
to do during the evenings in Puerto Madryn, during
the day most people use the city as a base to
explore the nearby nature hotspots and there are
many tourism agencies operating from the city. A
stroll along the coastal line is pleasant enough, but
beyond spotting sea birds you’ll have to take an
excursion or car outside of Puerto Madryn to see
the most impressive of the local species.
Dolphin gulls
Steamer ducks
Whale watching
Puerto Pirámides
Penguins
25
Puerto Madryn City
Puerto Madryn
PUNTA LOMA /////////////////////
This is the spot to see sea lions with over 600 of
them bathing on the shore line at low tide. Just
17kms from Puerto Madryn, Punta Loma is an easy
and quick excursion and local taxis will take you
there as well as organized tours.
TRELEW ///////////////////////////////
One of the main transport hubs, Trelew city is - as
you might have already suspected from the name
- a large Welsh settlement in Patagonia. Every
October there is a large Welsh poetry, dance and
song festival - Eisteddfod - and there are many
Welsh traditions still visible in the cuisine and tea
houses of the city.
While the outdoor activities are limited in Trelew, the
city is host to some excellent museums including
the Paleontology Museum which has the largest
dinosaur fossils in the world on display. As one of
the main gateways to Patagonia, Trelew is the arrival
point for anyone coming by air. Puerto Madryn is
67kms north of Trelew and accessible by bus or car.
PUNTO TOMBO //////////////////
Between September and March, Punto Tombo is
home to one of the largest penguin colonies in
the world. The Magellanic penguins come here to
lay their eggs at the beginning of the season, and
towards Christmas time you’ll see all the newly
hatched baby penguins waddling around in a fluffy
daze. This is a protected nature reserve, and other
wildlife is abundant including sea birds and land
animals.120kms south of Trelew, a visit to Punto
Tombo can be included in a (rather long) day trip from
Puerto Madryn or more conveniently from Trelew.
GAIMAN //////////////////////////////
Just 17kms away from Trelew, this small country
town is a very popular visit (day trip from Trelew
or Puerto Madryn) for its traditional Welsh tea
houses where you can tuck into a wide range of
cakes, scones and jams in an indulgent afternoon
tea. Some of the menus still have Welsh, although
most residents speak Spanish on a day to day basis.
Gaiman is often incorporated in day visits to the
area from Puerto Madryn or Trelew.
Sea lion
Penguin
Sea lions
Sea lions
Eisteddfod 2013
Paleontology Museum
25
PUERTO RAWSON /////////////
If you cam to see dolphins on your trip to the part of
Patagonia, Puerto Rawson is the spot for you with
small dolphins known as toninas play in the waters
year round. You can take a boat trip from here for
an hour or two of tonina spotting, which are also
known as the ‘pandas of the sea’ for their distinct
black and white colouring. Puerto Rawson is 30kms
east of Trelew.
HOW TO GET THERE //////
Puerto Madryn is almost 1,330km from
Buenos Aires and can either be reached
by land, sea or air. By bus is the most
affordable way to travel, and the journey
takes 18 hours so it is worth booking onto a
big comfortable sleeper bus like Andesmar
(www.andesmar.com) with fully reclining
seats, movies and food service. Airlines like
Aerolineas Argentinas (www.aerolineas.
com.ar) fly into Trelew (2hrs) from where
you can take one of the regular transfers
to Puerto Madryn; and many cruise liners
that head south from Buenos Aires will first
stop at Puerto Madryn.
Welsh Customs in Gaiman
Dolphin - Tonina
Amanda Barnes is a travel writer and self-
confessed travel addict who has spent the
last half decade roaming Argentina and its
neighbouring countries in search of ice, sand,
sun and good Syrah. You can read more of her
travel articles on www.amandabarnes.co.uk
amanda_tweeter
Our artist this edition is Florencia
Della Vedova. A plastic artist from
La Plata, Florencia designed this
edition’s cover especially. Amanda
Barnes interviews her a bit more to
fnd out about life in La Plata and
the beauty of childhood.

How would you describe yourself to
someone who has never met you?
This has always been the hardest
question for me to answer! I
consider myself a lover of colours,
passionate about photography
and restless by nature. I like many
disciplines, and I have worked in
many of them, including painting,
photography, engravings, printed
art, cinema, and a special effects
make up artist. I go along varying
things according to the moment,
my desires, my restlessness,
opportunities, peacefulness, the
place, the feeling. They say that we
mutate because we are water, but
people of stone never change.
Where were you born in Argentina
and what is the place like?
I was born in La Plata and at three
years old I moved to Germany
where I lived for three years and
from then on there hasn’t been
a year where I haven’t traveled to
some part of the world. I suppose
that because of this I consider
myself a citizen of the earth. Travel
taught me that at the end of it all,
it is not the place that is important,
but the people that inhabit it.
Artist profle /// FLORENCIA DELLA VEDOVA
Interview by AMANDA BARNES
www.forenciadellavedova.com
forencia_della_vedova@hotmail.com
You can visit Florencia’s
website or contact her
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Currently I live in La Plata... I don’t
like cities too much, it dazzles me
more to be able to see the sunset
and a sky flled with stars. However,
I consider it a nice city with a very
interesting artistic movement. In
these last years it has been
developing a movement alternative
to the conventional spaces and
there are artists that shine.
Do you have any vivid memories
of your childhood?
Yes…. many! Trains, travels, the
warmth of sunshine, hugs,
goodbyes, welcomes,
grandparents, adopted
grandparents, blues, springs, ducks
in the park and a castle, campsites…
My grandparents, their house,
the smell of my grandmother’s
poached eggs and the favour of
the fruit salads of my grandfather
which he cut very very small. I
remember that I loved to go to
sleep to imagine all the adventures
in which I saw myself involved.
During the day I would usually
plan where I was going to take
myself at night. Imagining, I had
fun imagining. A tonne of beautiful
memories come back to me with
your question!
When did you realise that you
wanted to be an artist?
I don’t think that it is something
one chooses, simply the desire to
do something makes the rest come
naturally. This is the beautiful
characteristic of art. Sometimes I
ask myself in what moment does
someone stop being an artist.
Picasso said that since he was a
child he painted like Rafael but
what took him a whole life to learn
was to draw like a child.
What inspires creativity in you?
The natural, the symbolic,
colours and moments. Sometimes
the most simple thing awakens
an idea for artwork. Photography
usually unravels itself, I look and
something inside me provokes the
necessity to capture this manner
of feeling the reality that I saw. It
is quasi instinctive, although there
are exceptions like everything.
I like to look at the art works of
other artists and sometimes I also
return to my own artworks. One
can see in others a search for
the aesthetic and/or a shared or
opposed concept, and be nourished
from it. I always say to my pupils
to observe - one can learn a lot
analysing other people’s work
because in that analysis one
differentiates between what one
likes and not from observation,
and establish, with the help of
others, what makes us authentic.

How would you describe your style?
Chromatic, oneiric, smooth,
patient, serene. For me it is a place
where I can shelter myself from the
chaos of the city. For the spectator
it can be a place to reconnect with
the magic of nature and the
rediscovery of beauty, so distorted
in recent times.
When you aren’t painting, what do
you like to do?
I like to travel a lot, even if it only
be an afternoon in the countryside,
I reconnect with many things that
make me happy. To climb on the
roof to have a smoothie. To watch
movies, look at artists, read. To do
nothing is to do a lot too!
If you weren’t an artist here in
Argentina in 2014, what would you
be, when and where?
It would be fascinating to be a
National Geographic photographer,
but it comes from being an artist I
suppose. Mmmmm, a bird, I would
like to be able to fy, to then dive
into the water and to connect the
three worlds by touching the land.
29
Maia Heidel La Marea Florencia and her cat
Bolivar esquina Venezuela
Bolivar esquina Venezuela
Bavarian “funfair” Oktoberfest.
What started in 1810 in Munich,
Germany, as a city-wide wedding
reception for Crown Prince Ludwig
and his bride Therse has now
O
utside of Carnival in
Brazil, few festivals around
the world evoke the same
images of mirth, culture and- most
importantly- beer, as does the
Jared Wilhelm is an American engineer and pilot,
currently on scholarship to attend the Universidad
Nacional de Cuyo in Mendoza. Passionate about
flying, traveling and wine, he tries to avoid more
than two of the three at the same time.
@jaredwilhelm
FOR 11 DAYS IN THE
CENTRAL SIERRAS
REGION OF ARGENTINA
YOU CAN’T GO WRONG
WITH EITHER ONE!
Closing Festival 2013 Fireworks blasting above Parque Cervecero.
31
become a worldwide event.
Luckily for those of us visiting or
living in Argentina, the best parts
of this tradition followed German
immigrants across the Atlantic and
each year there is an opportunity to
participate in the Argentine version
of this celebration of music, food,
and cerveza. Villa General Belgrano
is a village 87 km south the city of
Córdoba nestled in a lush green
valley at an altitude of 750m (2,500
ft), whose population of 6,000-some
Argentines of European and Ger-
man descent swells with tourists
for two weeks in early October.
This year will mark the 51st version
of the celebration, also known in
Argentina as the National Festival
of Beer. Officially running from
Friday, October 3rd to Sunday,
October 12th, every day the party
starts at 11 am and runs late into
the night. Centered around Parque
Cervecero, or Brew Park, you’ll find
stalls with all the traditional foods
and beer backed by a festive
soundtrack of central European
music.
The first weekend is a more
family-friendly affair, with parades,
dancing, a traditional keg-tapping
ceremony and musical
espectáculos (shows), culminating
in the election of the National Beer
Queen on Saturday evening. The
second weekend is more
recommended for the party-minded
crowd, so leave the kids behind as
you bust out the lederhosen (for
guys) and the traditional Bavarian
dirndl dresses (for girls). Special
activities include a-not-so-German
Argentine rock concert replete with
a laser light show, all accompanied
by copious amounts of German eer.
Entrance fees range from free to
$150 pesos per person depending
on the days you plan on attending,
so be sure to reference the price
list below.
Despite its quaint feel, Oktoberfest
is the village’s keystone event and
the area offers more than 100
different lodging options between
hostels, hotels, bed-and-breakfasts,
and cabins. Rooms book up fast
though, and if you haven’t planned
your trip yet you may need to opt
to crash in Córdoba, Argentina’s
second largest city (after Buenos
Aires) and make the trip to the
festival via bus. The village’s tourism
office recommends the colectivos
or minibuses that depart from
Córdoba’s terminal every 45
minutes for the hour-and-a-half
journey ride to Villa General
Belgrano (prices vary).
However you get there, be prepared
to soak in one of the most unique
opportunities to enjoy and imbibe
in the international roots of the
people and diverse landscapes of
Argentina. True Germans might be
a bit disappointed by the kitschy
nature of the village, lack of fluent
German speakers and the festival’s
commercialisation, but for the rest
of us looking for the an Argentine
twist on Oktoberfest in a Spanish-
speaking country 11,500 km away
- what’s not to like?
FIESTA NACIONAL
DE LA CERVEZA
Villa General Belgrano
3 / 10th October 2014
Ticket info
General admission available
for purchase same-day.
$150 pesos (Oct 11, 12)
$100 (Oct 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 13)
Free (Oct 6,7,9).
How to get there
From Córdoba bus terminal,
buy tickets to Villa General
Belgrano from one of the
following lines:
- Sierras de Calamuchita
- Buses Lep
- Pájaro Blanco
For more information
Villa General Belgrano Official
Tourism Site (Spanish)
www.vgb.gov.ar/
oktoberfest/
National Beer Festival 2014
(English)
www.welcomeargentina.
com/villageneralbelgrano/
beer-festival.html
Revelers trying to get a taste of the frst keg tapped. Fireworks blasting above
Parque Cervecero.
PEÑÓN DEL ÁGUILA
ADVENTURE PARK
Located 36 km west of Villa Gral.
Belgrano in La Cumbrecita, this
theme park takes its name from
the Spanish translation of “Eagle’s
Crag.” Although not a true
opportunity to experience pristine
wilderness, the park has a variety of
activities ranging from simple hikes
past scenic waterfalls, zip line
courses that traverse mountain
rivers and even speeding through
the forest in four-wheel all-terrain
vehicles. This is a good option for
families as they have activities for
all ages.
www.penondelaguila.com.ar
VILLA CARLOS PAZ
Located 90 km northwest of Villa
General Belgrano is Villa Carlos Paz.
Thanks to its location only 20
minutes west of Córdoba it has
become a popular destination for
those looking for a country escape,
and a visit here would work well
tacked onto the beginning or end of
an Oktoberfest trip. Local purveyors
offer fly fishing tours, scenic drives,
canoeing, hiking and the opportunity
to visit some of Argentina’s inland
“beaches,” resorts built on and
around San Roque Lake.
www.welcomeargentina.com/villa-
carlospaz/index_i.html
CITY OF CÓRDOBA
RELIGIOUS CIRCUIT
If you’re feeling repentant after too
much Warsteiner, or just happen to
be staying in the city because you
couldn’t get lodging in Villa General
Belgrano, take a day to explore the
historic cathedrals, monasteries and
Jesuit complex of Argentina’s
second city. Both self-guided and
professionally led tours leave from
the typically-named central Plaza
San Martín, where tourist booths
have maps and information available.
If you want your beer-belly to thank
you, contact Servicio de Guías de
Turismo de Córdoba A.C on
Facebook and sign up for their
evening “Córdoba Illuminated”
historic walking tour.
www.guiasdecordoba.webnode.com
OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN CÓRDOBA
If you need a break from repeatedly lifting and emptying a litre-sized steins,
there are plenty of other cultural and natural activities available within and
nearby to the village to help you clear your liver and head.
THE ORIGINS OF THE
ARGENTINE TRADITION
Mate originated with the Guaraní
people, an indigenous group, who
used it for its supposed medicinal
qualities. When Spaniards arrived
in South America, they began to
drink mate as well, and spread the
practice throughout the Southern
Cone. Today, Argentina, Uruguay,
and Paraguay are South America’s
most passionate mate drinkers,
followed by Brazil and Chile.
Although native to South America,
passionate expats are taking the
habit global.
THE ETIQUETTE OF MATE
DRINKING
At frst, drinking mate with
Argentine friends can be
intimidating, as there are many
unspoken rules that regulate the
practice. Don’t worry- we’ll make
sure you know the basics…
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AN ARGENTINE’S
BEST FRIEND
W
hether you are new to Argentina,
or a regular visitor, you have
probably found yourself drinking mate.
If not, now is the time to start. Mate is
one of the most iconic symbols of
Argentina, and for good reason.
Argentines adore the beverage and
drink it on almost any, and every,
occasion. Mate is the key ingredient
for a truly Argentine experience.
34
Argentines drink mate almost any
time of day, although the most
popular time is after a siesta for a
quick burst of energy. Mate can be
consumed by itself, but it is often
accompanied by delicious pastries
called facturas or savory warm
buns called tortitas.
Preparing mate to share with
friends is an art. The server begins
by flling the gourd about three-
quarters of the way full with the
herb. Many mate-drinkers opt to
add a bit of sugar as well to
sweeten the otherwise bitter drink.
They use lukewarm or cold water
for the frst cup, to ensure that
the mate doesn’t burn. The server
always drinks the frst cup, as it is
usually the most bitter. They then
continue by reflling the gourd to
the brim and passing it to the next
person. As the mate circulates, in
addition to serving water, the server
replenishes the herb and sugar
every three or four cups to ensure
a rich favor.
For some people, the practice of
sharing a straw may at frst seem
unsanitary, but for mate-drinkers
it is a natural aspect of the shared
experience. The collective nature of
drinking mate is so important that
it is considered offensive to drink
mate without offering some
to friends.
There are a few important rules to
follow when you are served mate:
Make sure you suck loudly on the
straw to indicate that you have
fnished your serving. When you re-
turn the gourd to the owner, do not
say gracias until you are satisfed
since gracias indicates that you do
not want any more mate.
Mate is a tradition built around
socializing and Wsharing. The goal
is not to drink as much mate as
possible (although you may do this
inadvertently), but rather to share a
relaxing moment with friends and
catch up on the latest gossip.
THE COMPONENTS OF A GOOD
MATE
Now that you know how to parti-
cipate in drinking mate, you may
want to begin your own mate-drin-
king circle. What tools do you need?
First, the mate gourd and straw, or
bombilla.
Mates come in all shapes and sizes,
so pick one that suits your fancy.
Traditionalists like to make sure that
the inside is wood, as this infuses
the drink with rich favors. Argen-
tine artisans make exceptionally
beautiful and varied mate cups
with a variety of materials, inclu-
ding wood, glass, metal, plastic,
and even horse hoofs for the more
adventurous.
The straw acts both as a straw, but
also as a flter to ensure that no her-
bs enter the straw. Make sure your
straw has a gold colored mouth-
piece, which will ensure that your
lips wont get burned while drinking
your mate. Most mate drinkers use
a thermos to carry hot water in, as
well as a plastic case for carrying
mate and sugar on the go.
Of course, the most important
ingredient is the yerba mate itself. If
you go into any Argentine grocery
store, you will surely fnd an aisle
overfowing with a wide variety
of yerba mate. Everyone has their
own preferred choice, but a few
traditional blends that are perennial
favorites include Nobleza Gaucha,
Rosamonte, and Cruz de Malta.
Explore the different favors of each
yerba mate blend; some are mild
and smooth, while others are offer
bold, more bitter favors. In addition
to being delicious, yerba mate is
said to have a variety of positive
health effects. It is rich in antioxi-
dants, aids digestion, and supports
cardiovascular health.
THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX
The traditional way of drinking mate
is not the only way to consume
mate. Argentines constantly invent
new ways to enjoy their national
drink. For a more fruity mate, either
choose a fruit-favored mate, or add
some orange peel to the mate cup.
This infuses the drink with a subtle
but delicious citrus favor.
For a stronger fruit favor, and to
impress friends, cut a hole in the
top of a grapefruit and hollow out a
small area. Save the juice from this
area to add to your hot water. Serve
the mate inside of this hollow,
adding water mixed with grapefruit
juice to the drink.
For those who prefer their drinks
a little harder, try Principe de los
Apostoles’ Mate Gin which has
mate herbs infused into the spirit
making way for unique cocktails
and drinks around some of the top
bars in Buenos Aires.
Each person has their own unique
way of preparing and enjoying
mate. The basics provided here are
just that, basics. Experiment with
mate until you fnd the perfect com-
bination, then gather some friends
to share in your newfound love for
Argentina’s national drink.
35
Vanessa Bell is a freelancer and founder of Creme de la Creme,
a bespoke personalised shopping service, showing the exclusive
and underground BA, from fashion, vintage, art and antiques to
interior design and the best kept secret places to eat.
www.cremedelacremeba.com
www.facebook.com/cremedelacremeba
Instagram.com/cremedelacremeba
HOTTEST BA
FASHION DESIGNERS
MAYDI
Maydi is making waves with the launch of the second
collection of her covetable knitwear line Maydi. Having cut
her teeth in the industry working for 10 years in fashion
marketing in Paris, she returned to her native Argentina,
and feeling frustrated at the limited options available to
her in her field, decided to apply her exceptional taste and
discerning eye to conceiving a line of her own. The results
are impressive, and have been snapped up by international
buyers. Hardly surprising as her emphasis is on meticulous
attention to detail and the finest raw materials, sourcing
premium local suppliers of wool and alpaca, the very
same who a few seasons ago provided wool for Stella
McCartney’s Patagonian inspired collection. Her pieces
can be bought by appointment directly from Maydi, or
alternatively from the stylish Panorama or Tupa stores.
www.maydiaz.com
Panorama (warehouse)
Republica de la India 2905, Palermo Zoo
Tupa (stockist)
Lafinur 3132, Buenos Aires, Palermo Zoo
(11) 2077-8563
Mon 11am-6pm | Tues - Sat 11am-8pm
MORA LASNIER
Mora’s jewellery is as drool-worthy as it comes. Sublimely
simple and effortlessly stylish, pieces that are irresistibly
crying out to be worn (on a recent visit to her showroom
I tried on the whole collection - no joke.) Having worked
in various disciplines from fashion styling to photography
Maydi
Mora Lasnier
Maydi
she has not followed the conventional route and this is
reflected in her collection, which is as fashion as it is art-
driven. She works with premium materials, producing her
artisan creations on a made to order basis, although she
has limited stock for sale.
www.facebook.com/moralasnier.joyeria
http://moralasnier.tumblr.com
Visits to her showroom by appointment |
mora.lasnier@gmail.com
LENA MARTORELLO
This creative partnership was handpicked to showcase their
designs in the Semillero category of the recent Buenos Ai-
res Fashion Week, which received favourable reviews. Both
uncompromising and pure in their approach and aesthetic,
the second collection offered pieces with a decidedly
Japanese influence, Kimono-esque garments brought up
to date fashioned from jean and with unfinished hems. The
constant manipulation of local identity juxtaposed with the
influence of global mass culture creates a label that seeks
to both break with and honour elements of local culture.
www.lenamartorello.com
By appointment | info@lenamartorello.com
(11) 4048 1740
JOCHI
On the eve of launching their debut collection, Jochi has
the makings of something great. Unafraid to experiment
with a conceptual approach, their pieces are fresh and
innovative, from classic blazers with a twist to out and
out statement pieces, which artfully maintain an elegant
aesthetic while simultaneously exposing a lot of skin. Great
if you’re eager to show off your recently acquired terraza
tan, bad news if you’ve fallen prey to the Quilmes and
empanada diet.
By appointment |
www.facebook.com/pages/JOCHI/678436898917954
E-EDITION
A brand new boutique has just opened in the upscale
Recoleta area to mark the debut collection of Josephine’s
diffusion line, created by Eugenia Rebolini y Natalia Gian-
nangeli. The premise of the label is limited edition coveta-
ble pieces and if this first collection is anything to go by,
they’re succeeding. Ranging from more formal dresses
to casual and sportswear, the simplicity of their collection
throughout is the main draw. Where many mainstream
labels here are still flogging tassels, leopard skin and studs,
many of the new breed of young designers are finally reali-
sing that less really is more.
Libertad 1688, Recoleta
www.facebook.com/pages/E-Edition/718227688268861
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Jochi
E-Edition
39
YOU ARE ORIGINALLY FROM PATAGONIA AREN'T YOU?
WHEN AND WHY DID YOU COME TO BA?
Yes, I was born and raised in Trelew, a city in
Chubut. I came to live and study in Buenos A ires back
in 1990 and lived with my Polish grandmother in Villa
Ortuzar. My sisters and I grew up with the idea of
leaving high school, coming to the big city to get an
education and have a life of our own, independent
and autonomous.
TELL ME ABOUT YOUR ANCESTRY...
My paternal grandparents were from Ukraine
whereas my maternal ones from Poland. They all
came to Argentina seeking a land to live in peace in
between wars.
WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT LIVING IN BA?
A s a P atagonian girl who lives in Buenos A ires, on a
daily basis I am confronted with the dilemma posed
by my friends and relatives of whether we should
stay here or go back. My partner, who is from P uerto
Madryn, and I have decided to stay because we
like it here: the buzz of the city, the opportunities,
cultural activities, projects, entertainment, friends,
our relatives... and so much more.
ARE THERE ANY FRUSTRATIONS LIVING HERE?
Any frustrations? Sure!! I am self-employed, I've
always been my own boss, therefore for the working
system, I am kind of out of reach for certain things,
and unfortunately so is my partner who is a musician
and sound technician. We do not qualify to take
out a bank loan to buy our own house nor can we
save any money to afford to buy one... We've been
together for more than 20 years and still that dream
is waiting to come true.
YOU RUN YOUR OWN COMPANY, WHICH YOU COMBINE
WITH MOTHERHOOD. MANY MOTHERS SEEM TO WORK
IN THIS CITY AND BA SEEMS TO BE RECEPTIVE TO
ENTREPRENEURIAL SPIRIT. WHAT HAVE YOUR
EXPERIENCES BEEN?
I am a mother of two: an 8 year old and 2 year old. It's
not easy stuff, I want to grow in my career but also to
be a present mother in my children's life... Fortunately my
partner supports me... we share all the household activities;
but not only he helps me, I have a lady who helps us with
the household chores everyday and then some occasional
baby sitters. Actually it's pretty tight logistics, very tiring
and demanding, there's no room for sloth or laziness. And
unfortunately, everything boils down to the fact of having
enough money to afford the baby sitting, outsourcing, so
that I can undertake my projects...
TELL ME ABOUT THE BARRIO YOU LIVE IN.
I've been living in P alermo for 17 years, I've witnessed
how the barrio has changed all over these years: from a
garage barrio to a trendy and fancy one. It's been kind of
annoying to see how beautiful houses have been
demolished to give way to apartment buildings and bars or
discos. However, I like it because I walk everywhere... It is
as if we live in small town.
ANY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR SOMEONE NEW TO THE CITY?
Any recommendations: uff so many... Argentinean people
tend to be very friendly and curious, but be careful there
are con men everywhere, so be attentive! What I see is
that foreigners really enjoy our idiosyncrasy, we can be nice
people, but there are some others that can really be a pain
in the neck...The other day a foreigner told that we are like
no other place on earth...a kind of Argentinean race!
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Interview by
HELEN APPLEBY
sauces to pick between: from Argentine
mild to kick-you-in-the-mouth picante!
This place flls up late on the weekends
with a post-party crowd just desperate for
that taco fx. It is easy to see why.
La Fabrica del Taco, Gorriti 5062,
Palermo Soho. (11) 4832 0815. www.
fabricadeltaco.com Tues-Sun Midday –
2am (closed 6-7pm) $$
Welcome to Argentina: the land of pizza,
pasta and parilla! There is so much more
to Buenos Aires’ food scene though and
this is a quick glance guide to some of the
gastronomy gems you can discover in the
city. Don’t forget that Argentineans dine late
at night with most restaurants not opening
much before 8pm and often still serving till
gone midnight. Lunch is usually noon to 3pm.
LA FABRICA DEL TACO
If you want a plate of steaming tacos
quick and fast, the Fabrica del Taco is the
place to head for a casual night of decent
Mexican tacos and dirty margaritas. Bright
lights and tempting wafts of steaming
tacos will knock you over as you wander
past this popular Palermo taco joint, and
once you take your frst bite you’ll see
why it pulls in a crowd. Soft corn tacos
are flled with juicy pulled pork or smoking
chicken and cheese, and there’s three hot
SARKIS
Serving food as if it were in Armenia,
and un-translated menus to match, this is
a great spot for those on a budget who
want to taste some proper Middle Eastern
food. Busy, simple, and sometimes a bit
rushed – this isn’t your spot for a fancy
date but it will keep you happy with its
keppe, big portions and unpretentious
Armen-tinean favours.
Sarkis, Thames 1101 (between Jufré and
Lerma), Villa Crespo (11) 4772 4911. Open
daily Lunch & Dinner. $
DON JULIO
A classic parilla place in Buenos Aires, Don
Julio is often on people’s ‘not to miss’ list
for visiting the city and with packed tables
almost every night you can see why. This
traditional restaurant serves perfectly
cooked slabs of beef that will please any
meat lover like a pig in muck. The wine
trained servers will also be able to help you
pick out a top choice Malbec to go with
your steak. If you order one of the pricier
bottles you’ll be asked to sign the bottle
with your refections on the meal to be
displayed around the restaurant.
Don Julio, Guatemala 4691 (corner
Gurruchaga), Palermo (11) 4831 9564.
Open daily Lunch & Dinner. $$$
SIAMO NEL FORNO
Even though Argentina has a huge Italian
infuence, most of the pizza here can be
disappointing with thick, spongy bases, an
inch of plastic cheese and an inundation of
grease. Siamo nel Forno however makes
pizza like you’d expect it in Naples: thin
crispy base, with a tasty splash of tomato
and only a sprinkle of for formaggio.
Cooked in a real wood oven you’ll be crying
mamma mia over your margherita. Don’t
miss trying the Nutella pizza for dessert.
Siamo nel Forno, Costa Rica 5886
(between Ravignani and Carranza) Palermo
(11) 4775-0337. Dinner Tue – Sun. $$
Pesos per person for average meal (main
+ starter/dessert, excluding drinks)
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RESTAURANT GUIDE
FUKURO
If you are craving some decent noodles and great sticky buns, Fukuro is a new restaurant
hand delivered by a food angel in Buenos Aires. After US expat Vanessa moved here
a couple years ago and realized there was nowhere she could get her beloved Ramen
noodles like at home, she and her Argentine-born partner Matias started up a noodle bar
of their own, and it is a fantastic success. Graba bar stool colourful graffti-covered night
spot, and you’ll be served rich, savory and thick Ramen noodle soup (bring a bib as you will
be slurping every last noodle in ‘Lady and the Tramp’-style fashion). Equally as appealing
– and limelight stealing – are their moist and sticky, sweet and sour steamed pork buns,
and the fresh and succulent gyozas. Pouring artisanal beer from the city and saki from
further afeld, Fukuro is excellent for a quick bite or the soon-to-open Summer garden will
give you reason to stay even longer. The menu is limited, but perfectly executed, and that
alone is a great excuse to order seconds.
Fukuro Noodle Bar, Costa Rica 5514, Palermo Hollywood. (11) 3290 0912
www.fukuronoodlebar.com Tues-Sat from 8pm. $$
BUENOS AIRES VERDE
Had enough meat? Need to get back to
the green stuff? This is your place. A raw
food, vegan and vegetarian hangout you
can get your fx of all things green and
good again. Their wheatgrass shots, raw
cupcakes and seaweed cannolis have
built up quite a fan base. Even the wine is
organic, making this a sin free dining spot.
Buenos Aires Verde, Gorriti 5657 (between
Fitz Roy and Bonpland), Palermo (11) 4775
9594. Mon – Sat, 9am till late. $$
CAFÉ SAN JUAN
Chef Leandro Cristobal is a skater
and a tattoo afcionado and his unique
personal style is refected in his simple
but adventurous dishes. With the menu
scrawled on chalkboards and changing on
an almost daily basis, this has become a
frm favourite of Portenos and tourists so
much so that a spin off sister restaurant
has opened nearby on Chile 474 (La
Cantina de San Juan). Tapas and typical
Argentine dishes with a twist served in a
relaxed setting in a retro-style diner.
Café San Juan, San Juan 450 (between
Bolivar and Defensa), San Telmo (11) 4300-
1112. Reservations recommended. Open
Lunch & Dinner. Closed Mondays. $$$
MUSEO DEL JAMON
This really is a museum to the glory of
jamón, with cured ham legs swinging
from the rafters that have come from
high quality producers in Argentina and
specialized producers from the mecca of
jamón - Spain. Imported foodie goods are
tough to get your hands on in Argentina,
but the Museo have brought in different
delicious jamones as well as salami and
chorizo, and even the odd bottle of Spanish
vino! It’s not just cured meats though - you
can feast on seafood, shellfsh, homemade
pastas and paella, and one of their house
specialties is suckling pig. The modern
Puerto Madero location is perfect for a
harbor side walk afterwards.
Museo del Jamon, Av. Alicia Moreau de
Justo 2020 (near Cochabamba), Puerto
Madero, (11) 4300-5418. Mon - Sun, lunch
& dinner. $$$$
COCINA SUNAE
Christina Sunae has been in the kitchen
since she was 14 learning from her Filipino
family and brings her Asian infuences
to this well-established closed door
restaurant. With four courses inspired
by the Philippines, Thailand, Indonesia
and Malaysia you’ll be treated to some of
Christina’s home comforts like Thai shrimp
curry, tangy Ube crepes flled, and green
tea ice cream. The menu changes weekly
but there’s a trademark tickle of spice, and
if you’ve been in BA too long you can take
home some of her homemade hot sauce to
spice up your life!
Cocina Sunae, (secret location) Colegiales,
(15) 4870 5506, www.cocinasunae.com
$$$
BELLAGAMBA
If you want a traditional Argentine ‘bodegon’
(tavern) Bellagamba is probably one of the
most centrally located ones still sending out
milanesas and jugs of wine at lunch time
the same way it did since opening in 1900.
Started by a couple Italian immigrants, the
motive behind this bodegon is flling food
and a place to eat in a cosy atmosphere.
Cheap, cheerful and authentic.
Bellagamba, Rivadavia 2183 (between Junin
and Uriburu), Congreso (11) 49515833.
Open daily 8 till mid afternoon. $$
41
THE TOP 50 RESTAURANTS IN LATIN AMERICA
The Restaurant Magazine recently revealed their picks of the Top 50 restaurants in Latin
America, and Buenos Aires is home to a whopping 11 of them! Tegui (www.tegui.com.
ar) came in highest at number nine, followed by Aramburu (www.arambururesto.com.ar)
at number fourteen, Tarquino (www.tarquinorestaurante.com.ar) at number sixteen, El
Baqueano (www.restoelbaqueano.com) at number eighteen, Chila (www.chilaweb.com.
ar) at number twenty one, La Cabrera (www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar) at number twenty
two, Tomo 1 (www.tomo1.com.ar) at number twenty three, Oviedo www.oviedoresto.
com.ar) at number twenty nine, Sucre (www.sucrerestaurant.com.ar) at number forty
seven, Elena (www.fourseasons.com/buenosaires) at number forty eight, and last but not
least Pura Tierra (www.puratierra.com.ar) at number ffty.
While these restaurants should all be on your new hit list for BA’s dining scene, there were
a couple special mentions that also came from the city: Osvaldo Gross won the prize for
best pastry chef in Latin America; and El Baqueano was named the best up and coming
restaurant for its use of indigenous meats such as llama and a native type of crocodile called
Yacare.
To get food desire take a look at the full list online at www.theworlds50best.com
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El gin artesanal argentino
necesitaba una tonica
artesanal que le haga
compañia.
conocelos a los dos en la casa
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El gin artesanal argentino
necesitaba una tonica
artesanal que le haga
compañia.
conocelos a los dos en la casa
de su creador tato giovannoni.
floreria atlantico - arroyo 872
2013 drinks international best bar in latin america & caribbean
The nickname of a ‘city that doesn’t sleep’ doesn’t come
from Buenos Aires’ offce culture… but rather its addictive
nightlife scene. Any night of the week you can head out for a
few cocktails, a local brew or rave into dawn at a nightclub.
Live music and nightclubs start late (11pm for music, 3am for
nightclubs), but with a new crop of happy hours throughout
the city your night can start relatively early. There is an
exhausting number of bars and nightlife spots, but here is a
selection of different types of bars to get you started.
BAR & CAFÉ GUIDE
REY DE COPAS
An Alladin’s cave of Venetian puppets,
copper-splashed walls and pillow covered
couches, Rey de Copas is a seductive spot
to quaff a couple chic cocktails. There is a
treasure trove bucket by the bar flled with
ice and beer, but you’ll be missing a trick if
you don’t dig into their eclectic cocktail list.
Sweet, spicy and fragrant you’ll easily fnd
a drink on the list to please your palate,
and if you get the nibbles they serve neat
tapas to sate your hunger. Inside is cosy and
atmospheric, but the candlelit terrace is the
place to be on warm summer evenings.

Rey de Copas, Gorriti 5176, Palermo Soho.
(11) 268 5220. Tues – Sat evenings.
LATTENTE
Lattente has been training baristas in
Buenos Aires for a couple years now and is
one of the best sources of good beans and
great coffee in the city. With a quick service
of espresso, latte and drip-fltered coffee,
you can get it how you like it and sit down
for a moment of respite at their newspaper
and magazine covered coffee tables. Adding
another tempting treat to the mix, there is
often a man just outside selling proper
Italian cannoli. Life is dulce!
LATTEnTE, Thames 1891, Palermo. (11)
4833 1676. Mon-Sun 9/10am – 8pm.
FULL CITY COFFEE HOUSE
If you are serious about your coffee and
need a real bean fx, Full City Coffee
House is one of the better coffee joints in
town. Whether you like it strong and black,
with just a lágrima (literally just a drop) of
coffee in a pot of frothy milk, or you want
a Cappuccino like you’d get back home,
the well trained barristas know what they
are doing. Packed with coffee fends and
freelancers, there is good wif here and a
stack of magazines and newspapers as well
as a decent Colombian-style breakfast to
while away an hour or two. They also run
private coffee classes.
Full City Coffee House, Thames 1535,
Palermo Soho. (11) 4833 6774. Tues – Sun.
PAIN ET VIN
If you want to sit down to a decent glass, or
bottle, of wine with a hunk of proper bread –
this is your kind of joint. Specializing in two
of the greatest gifts in life – bread and wine
– this sunny spot in Palermo is popular as a
bar, lunch spot (try the hearty sandwiches)
and a wine shop. There’s a good little spot
outside in a patio if you want fresh air too.
Pain et Vin, Gorriti 5132, Palermo. (11)
4832 5654. Tues – Sun 12 - 10pm (7pm on
Sundays)
ANTARES
If you are in search of real ale, then
Antares is one of the safest options with a
nationwide chain of micro breweries. With
a couple locations around the city, you can
stop in for a honey beer or cream stout in
San Telmo, Las Canitas or in their fagship in
Palermo where the impressive 10ft tall kegs
hang over the bar giving it a trendy New
York feel to it. As well as different pints, and
even a beer tasting option, Antares serve
hearty bar food all evening.
Antares: Armenia 1447, Palermo; Arevela
2876, Las Canitas; Bolivar 491, San Telmo.
Daily from 7pm till late.
LIVERPOOL
Although the thought of Beatles
paraphernalia might make you cringe, this
Brit pop themed bar actually hosts some
pretty decent live bands. With a proper
stage equipped for musicians, most nights
you get a band play and afterwards it turns
into a nightclub.
Liverpool Bar, Arevalo 1376 (between
Cordoba and Alvarez Thomas), Palermo (11)
5355 7632. Mon – Sat nights.
CAFÉ MARGOT
A real treasure, Café Margot has a history
stretching back to 1904 and a step into this
bar/café feels like a step back into history
with dusty bottled lined walls and lots of
olde-worlde memorabilia. Beer is brewed
here each morning and their homebrew is
served throughout the week, as is decent
bar food. The waiters will rave about their
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turkey – which is served in countless
sarnies here – and actually claim to have
invented the turkey sandwich (just go along
with it!)Unpretentious spot for a coffee and
step back into a different century.
Café Margot, Av. Boedo 857 (corner of San
Ignacio), Boedo, (11) 4957 0001. Daily 8am
till late.
LA CIGALE
One of the best music bars in the city
centre, La Cigale has a bit of je ne sais quoi.
Apart from the trendy French theme, they
hit it right on the head with their live music
which ranges from electro nights to vintage
spinning, as well as a space upstairs for
bands. If you get there early, indulge in the
daily happy hour from 6 till 10pm.
La Cigale, 25 de Mayo 597 (corner
Tucuman), Centre (11) 4893 2332, Mon – Fri
from 6pm, Sat from 9.30pm.
GIBRALTAR
With a name like Gibraltar, you’d assume
this is aimed at expats and you’d be right, but
this English-style pub is remarkably popular
with locals too. The bar menu is comfort-
food pub grub including fsh and chips,
bangers and mash, and homemade curries.
Best of all, they serve food all day from 12
till 2am meaning you can soak up the extra
pints at any hour while the cider, beer and
wine keep fowing till 4am each night. If you
want cocktails, look somewhere else, but if
you want a proper pub in San Telmo – the
Gibraltar is it.
Gibraltar, Peru 895 (corner of Estados
Unidos), San Telmo. (11) 4361 5310. Daily,
midday till late.
FLORERIA ATLANTICO
Entering through an afterhours forist-cum-
wine shop-cum-record store has to be one
of the more unique entrances for a bar, and
that’s the only way to get into this new
bar and restaurant in Retiro. Owned by
a top mixologist and a super sommelier,
the drinks here are to die for of course,
as are the tapas and food. Dedicated to
the immigrant tribes of Argentina, you’ll
fnd cocktails twisted with Italian Aperol,
Spanish sherry, French cognac and English
Earl Grey. A creative and cool spot for those
who really know their booze.
Floreria Atlantico, Arroyo 872 (between
Suipacha and Esmeralda), Retiro (11) 4313
6093. Mon – Sat, 10am – 3am
ALSINA
It is ftting that BA’s best club is practically
in a palace. With a capacity of up to 1500,
Alsina is its own principality of party. The
main foor is flled with a throbbing mass
of clubbers will the upstairs balconies offer
a little bit of respite and a good people
spotting platform looking over the crowd.
Alsina attracts international names and
hosts a party every night of the week.

Alsina, Adolfo Alsina 940 (between Bernando
de Irigoyen and Tacuari), Montserrat (11)
4331 3231. Daily from midnight.
SKY BAR
The best known rooftop bar in the city, Sky
Bar is on the 13th foor of Hotel Pulitzer in
the city centre making it ideal for reaching
some cooler Summer air and enjoying a
view over the night city lights. A popular
‘after offce’ spot and also ideal for downing
a couple cocktails at sunset, although the
DJ plays well into the night too.
Sky Bar, Hotel Pulitzer, Maipu 907 (corner
of Paraguay), Centre (11) 4316 0800, Daily
after 5pm.
SR DUNCAN
A converted mansion with a penchant for
swing and tinkling piano notes, Sr Duncan is
a handsome live music venue where you’ll
get tango, jazz, swing and anything else
that has continued to sound good over the
last few decades. Even the prices hark back
to a time before.
La Casa del Sr Duncan, Av Rivadavia 3832
(between Medrano and Salguero), Almargo,
(11) 4958 3633. 8pm till late Tues – Sat. Check
out their facebook/SeniorDuncan for listings.
VERNE COCKTAIL CLUB
As the name suggests, this is a bar
dedicated to creative cocktails. Opened last
year, this Palermo bar is already drawing in
good crowds who come for the neat twists
on old classics. If you really have a hangover
wish for the morning, try their absinth
tasting menu.
Verne Cocktail Club, Medrano 1475 (corner
of Costa Rica), Palermo (11) 4822 0980.
Daily from 9pm till late.
CAFÉ TORTONI
One of the great classic cafes of Buenos
Aires, Café Tortoni has been the meeting
point for many great minds during its 160
year history including the likes of Jorge Luis
Borges, Federico Garcia Lorca and even
Albert Einstein. With every square inch of
wall covered in photos and memorabilia,
walking into Café Tortoni is like a step back
in history. As well as serving the classic
coffee, orange juice and croissants by
waiters dressed in a shirt and tie, there is a
tango hall at the back where you can catch
daily shows.
Gran Café Tortoni, Av. de Mayo 829,
Monserrat. (11) 4342 4328. Daily from
8.30am till late.
BEBOP
Live music is often a bit hard to fnd in Buenos Aires compared to other world capitals,
but there’s a new San Telmo joint that keeps the beat moving fve nights a week. BeBop
is a stylish basement jazz bar with live jazz, blues, soul and pop bands every night of the
week and twice on Fridays and Saturdays. An intimate, low light setting with personal
lampshades is a throw back to the jazz bars of the 1920s. The bar list has classic cocktails
and a short but sweet collection of wines and beers, although if you want to fnish (or
start!) your evening with something more substantial, pop upstairs to Aldo’s where you’ll
fnd hundreds of wines and excellent food.
BeBop, Moreno 364, San Telmo. (11) 4331 3409.
www.bebopclub.com.ar Tues-Sat 8.30pm-late.
45
PLAYGROUND T IPS
If you are new to BA it can seem a pretty daunting experience with 3 million inhabitants
and a spread of over 200km2. Here are some tips to help you play safe in the playground
that is Buenos Aires -
Buses are cheap, regular and easy (once you know which one to get on). Be aware that buses
aren’t cash friendly, you’ll either need exact change in coins (tricky for a $5-6 peso fair) or
get an electronic reduced tariff card SUBE (order it online or see a list of points of sale at
www.sube.gob.ar), which you can charge at most metro stations. You’ll fnd a helpful bus route
planner online at www.mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar Once you get on the bus you’ll quickly fnd yourself
critiquing and praising the bus drivers’ personalized décor and memorabilia at the front of the
bus.
The metro system runs through some key points in the city from 5am till 10.30pm each day.
Paying a cash fare here is easier with cashiers able to normally give you change, but a SUBE
card (see above) will help you if you are here for more than a couple days.
Buenos Aires is a great city to walk through and at foot pace you can really appreciate
the personality of porteños and catch a glimpse into the homes and lives of many that you
otherwise might not. Do however take care and don’t walk in poorly lit areas at night, or walk
in areas that are infamous for petty crime (La Boca, Villa 31 (next to Retiro), Constitucion,
Barracas to name a few). Always exercise caution with your belongings and avoid wearing
fashy jewelry or opening fat wallets in public.
There are two airports in Buenos Aires, and they are quite far from each other so get your
airport right to avoid missing a fight! Also take care with connections as many carriers will
make you change airports for ongoing fights so give yourself time to go from one to another.
Aeroparque (mainly domestic fights) is the most central and only 10mins in a taxi to Palermo.
Ezeiza (Ministro Pistarini) International Airport is the biggest and is about 45 mins away from
the city centre by car. It is about an hour and a half between them and the most economic
way without much hassle is by booking a private bus or taxi from www.tiendaleon.com or www.
minibusezeiza.com.ar There is a public bus to Ezeiza (number 8, from Av. Independencia, Perú,Av.
Bel grano, Av. De Mayo, Av. Rivadavia) but it takes a couple hours to get there.
If you need a bigger form of transport that is wheelchair accessible, try contacting
www.qrvtransportes.com.ar to get some wheels under your wheels!
The blue dollar is no secret and exchanging dollars on the black market is easy enough with
illegal traders swarming Florida street making it a piece of cake for even the most simple-
minded tourist. Do however remember that it is illegal, and also that tourists sometimes get
targeted immediately after exchanging by observant thieves.
Unlike most of Latin America, emergency healthcare is free in Argentina. So if you fnd yourself
in an emergency or need to see a doctor, try Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, La Boca) or
Hospital de Clinicas (Av. Cordoba 2351, Barrio Norte). If you prefer to go private (quicker, often
better healthcare) then try Hospital Aleman (Pueyreddon 1640, Recoleta) and bring cash.
47
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Posadas
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Posadas
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Jardín
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Paseo del
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Museo de
Artes Plásticas
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Plaza
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Hospital
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Museo
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la Mujer
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LINEA B
LINEA C
LINEA D
LINEA E
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LA BOCA JORGE NEWBERY / INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT RETIRO / BUS STATION
SAN TELMO
MONSERRAT
SAN
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RECOLETA
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CHACARITA
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A
WHERE TO FIND PLAYGROUND BUENOS AIRES
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por favor contactar | editor@playgroundba.com
For an up to date list with new locations check out our website
www.playgroundba.com
ALMAGRO
Las Violettas Rivadavia 3899
BALVANERA
Sabor a Tango Perón 2535
BARRIO NORTE
Anima Peña 2665
BELGRANO
Sucre bar Sucre 676
BOEDO
Café Margot (Los Notables) Boedo 857
CENTRO
Alvear Art Hotel Suipacha 1036
Amerian Buenos Aires Park Hotel
Reconquista 699
Casacalma Hotel Suipacha 1015
Celta Bar Sarmiento 1701
Complejo Tango Avda Belgrano 2608
Dante Boutique Hotel Cochabamba 514
Design CE Hotel de Diseño
Marcelo T de Alvear 1695
Design Suites Buenos Aires
M. T de Alvear 1683
Dolmen Hotel Suipacha 1079
Down Town Matias Reconquista 701
Floreria Atlantico Arroyo 872
Gran Bar Danzon Libertad 1161
Gran Cru Rodriguez Peña 1886
Gran Hotel Hispano Avda de Mayo 861
Hotel Boutique Bonito Buenos Aires
Chile 1507
Jack the Ripper Libertad 1275
La Fresque Hotel Boutique
Avda de Mayo 984
Le Choix des Vins Posadas 1166
Le Vitral Buenos Aires Ayacucho 277
Mayflower Suites Paraná 720
Museo de la Ciudad Defensa 219
Play Juncal 1472
Plaza San Martín Suites Suipacha 1092
Recoleta Hostel-Hostel Int.
Libertad 1216
Reconquista Garden Esmeralda 675
Rooney´s Hotel Boutique
Sarmiento 1775
Serena Hotel Libertad 1617
SF Suites Avda Santa Fe 1188
Tanguero Boutique Hotel Suipacha 780
LAS CAÑITAS
Antares Las Cañitas Arevalo 2876/8
Tienda de Cafe Baez 400
Van Koning bar Baez 325
MICROCENTRO
Bridge Language School Tucuman 633
BsAs4U Travel agency Lavalle 900
MONSERRAT
Aldo´s Moreno 372
Bebop Club Moreno 364
Café Tortoni Av. De Mayo 825
Reino del Plata Hipolito Yrygoyen 647
Two Hotel Buenos Aires Moreno 785
PALERMO
1555 Malabia House Hotel B&B
Malabia 1555
248 Finisterra Báez 248
5411 Soho Hotel Spa Thames 1565
Alaire Terrace Bar Gurranchaga 1509
Amasoho Hostel Darragueyra 2317
Atempo Design Hotel Arévalo 1564
Awwa Suites & Spa Lafinur 3370
Ayres de Español Gurruchaga 1851
Ba Sohotel J. Luis Boges 2205
Back in BA Hostel El Salvador 5115
Bangalore Humboldt 1416
Bar Du March Nicaragua 5946
Be Hollywood Hunboldt 1726
Birkin Republica Arabe Siria 3061
Blue Soho Hotel El Salvador 4735
Bobo Hotel Guatemala 4882
Boho Rooms Uriarte 1389
Bolivia Gurruchaga 1581
Bolivia Nicaragua 4908
Cabrera Garden Boutique Gest House
Cabrera 5855
Divina Bolivia Costa Rica 4670
Eco Pampa Hostel Guatemala 4778
El Tejano Honduras 4416
Fierro Hotel Boutique Soler 5862
Francesco Restaurant Soler 5598
Giramondo Hostel Bar Guemes 4802
Godoy Cruz Suites Godoy Cruz 2459
Grand Café Basavilbaso 1340
Green Bamboo (Vietnamita)
Costa Rica 5802
Guido Blvd. Cerviño 3943
Home Buenos Aires Hotel
Honduras 5860
Hostel Suites Palermo Charcas 4752
Hotel Boutique Purobaires
Av. Independencia 2400
SAN TELMO
America del Sur Buenos Aires Hostel
Chacabuco 718
Antares Bolívar 491
Arribo Buenos Aires Perú 291
Bar Defensa Defensa y Cochabamba
Bar del Filete Defensa 217
Bar Espresso
Av. Belgrano 402. Esq. Defensa
Bar Seddon Defensa 695
BE Hotel Buenos Ares Venezuela 649
Bicicleta Naranja Pasaje Giuffra 308
Bohemia Buenos Aires Hotel B.Perú 845
Brasserie Petanque Defensa 596
Buenos Aires Vintage
Café La Poesía (Los Notables) Chile 502
Cafe Rivas Estados Unidos 302
Circus Hostel & Hotel Chacabuco 1020
Coffee Town
Bolivar 976 (Mercado San Telmo)
Dazzler San Telmo Piedras 303
El Banco Rojo Bolivar 914
El Buzon Peru 608
El Federal (Los Notables)
Carlos Calvo 595
El Querandi Peru 302
Expanish - Spanish Language School
Gral Juan Domingo 698
Gibraltar Perú 895
Graffitimundo Carlos Calvo 736
Hostel Inn Buenos Aires
Humberto Primo 820
Hostel Tango Argentina Chacabuco 747
Hotel Babel Balcarce 946
Hotel Bolívar Bolívar 886
Hotel Patios de San Telmo
Chacabuco 748
Il Sorpasso Humberto Primo 478
Kenton Palace Buenos Aires
Defensa 383
La Casita de San Telmo
Cochabamba 286
La Morada H. Yrigoyen 778
La Panadería de Pablo Defensa 269
La Poesía Chile 502
La Puerta Rico Alsina 416
Lumio Café Carlos Calvo 498
MACBA Museo Arte Contemp.
Avda. San Juan 328
MAMBA Museo Arte Moderno
Avda San Juan 350
Mansion Dandi Royal Piedras 922
Mariposita Carlos Calvo 948
Moreno Hotel Moreno 376
Nueva Liberia Estados Unidos 301
Ostinatto Hostel Chile 680
Patios de San Telmo Chacabuco 752
Perez H Defensa 435
Piedras Suites Piedras 908
Posada de la Luna B&B Perú 565
Puerto Limon Chacabuco 1080
Pulperia Defensa 752
Ribera Sur Hotel Paseo Colón 1145
Sagardi Suites Humberto Primo 319
San Telmo Flats Piedras 990
San Telmo Luxury Suites Chile 437
Senor San Telmo Defensa 756, esquina
Pasaje San Lorenzo
Telmho Hotel Boutique Defensa 1086
TelmoTango Hostel Suites
Chacabuco 679
Tiana Buenos AiresHumberto Primo 629
Urban Station San Telmo
Avda. San Juan y Chacabuco
Walrus Books Etados Unidos 617
Yauss! Estados Unidos 509
Zorzal Mane Petit Hotel
Humberto Primo 775
VILLA CRESPO
Malvon Serrano 789
Querido B&B
Juan Ramírez de Velazco, 934
El Frances cafe / restaurant Gorriti 5099
Full City Coffee House Thames 1535
Jam Suites Malabia 1442
Magdalena’s Party Bar
Thames 1795 (esq Costa Rica)
Mark’s Deli & Coffee House
El Salvador 4701
Post Street Bar Thames 1885
Road2Argentina
Pasaje Santa Rosa 5038
Soho Point Malabia 1577
The Factory (new Juice bar)
El Salvador 4995
PALERMO/VIEJO
Urban Station El Salvador 4588
Bar Botola Gurruchaga 1795
Bortola Classic Gurruchaga 1806
Cocu Malabia 1510
Dogo Hostel José Antonio Cabrera 4716
El Ultimo Beso Nicaragua 4880
Helena Cafe Nicaragua 4816
Shanghai Dragon Aráoz 1199
PALERMO/CAÑITAS
248 Finisterra Báez 248
PUERTO MADERO
Asia de Cuba Pierina Dealessi 750
Ayres de Patagonia
Alicia Moreau de justo 1798
Bar del PuentePierina Dealessi y Gorritti
Blakke Juana Manso 1580
Cabaña Las Lilas Alicia M. de Justo 516
Cuccina D´Onore
Alicia Moreau de Justo 1768
Cucina Donore Alicia M. de Justo 1768
DF Mexican Olga Cossettini 1611
El Bistro + Cava (Faena Hotel)
Martha Salotti 445
El Único Bar Juana Manso 1601
Estilo Campo Alicia M. De Justo 1840
Faena Hotel UniverseMartha Salotti 445
Freddo Juana Manso 1570
ICentral Market
P. Dealessi esq. M. Guemes
Itamae Sushi Olga Cosettini 1553
La Cabaña Alicia M. De Justo 380
La Parolacia Casa Tua
Alicia M. de Justo 276
La Parolacia del Mare
Alicia M. de Justo 1170
Lupita Mexican Bar
Olga Cossettini 1091
Museo del Jamón
Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020
Osaka (Faena Arts Center)
Juana Manso 1164
Patio JaponésJuana Manso y E. Escurra
Persicco Heladeria Juana Manso 1100
Rodizio Alicia M. De Justo 838
Siga La Vaca Alicia M. De Justo 1714
Simone Olga Cosettini esq. E. Escurra
Sushi Club Petrona Eyle 471
Sushi Club Alicia Moreu de Justo 286
Tres Quarts by Rodizio
Pierina Dealessi 1130
Winery Juana Manso y M. Guemes
RECOLETA
Alvear Palace Hotel Avda Alvear 1891
Art Suites Azcuénaga 1465
Art Suites & Gallery Peña 2268
Ayres de Libertad Libertad 1283
Ayres de Recoleta Hotel Uriburu 1756
Casa Bar Rodríguez Pena 1150
Casa Sur Art Hotel Av. Callao 1823
Centro Cultural Junín 1930
Galería Rubbers Internacional
Avda Alvear 1595
Howard Jonhnson HB Peña 2049
Ih International House
Pacheco de Melo 2555
LoiSuites Recoleta Hotel
Vicente Lopez 1955
Mio Buenos Aires Hotel
Avda. Quintana 465
Pani Vicente López 2056
Poetry Building Junin 1280
Recoleta Cemetery Azcuénaga
Ulises Recoleta Suites Ayacucho 2016
Unique Art Ellegance
Avda. Pueyrredón 1940
Urban Suites Junin 1727
RETIRO
Basa Basavilbaso 1328
Farinelli Arroyo 900
Feir´s Park Hotel Esmeralda 1366
Hotel Loi Suites Arenales Arenales 855
Sofitel Buenos Aires Arroyo 841
SAN CRISTOBAL
Bar de Cao (Los Notables)
Niceto Vega 4788
Ilum Hotel El Salvador 5726
Jardín Escondido Gorriti 4746
Krista Hotel Bomplant 1665
L´Hotel Palermo Thames 1562
La Boussole Gascon 1346
Lattente Thames 1891
Le Pain Quotidien Armenia 1641
Legado Mítico Buenos Aires
Gurruchaga 1848
Libro del Pasaje Thames 1762
Lo de Joaquin Alberdi
J. Luis Borges 1772
M Palermo El Salvador 5783
Malambo Thames 2098
Malvon II Lafinur 3275
Maria Félix Guatemala 5200
Mark´s Deli El Salvador 4701
Mine Hotel Boutique Gorritti 4770
Miravida Soho Wine Bar
Darragueyra 2050
Moving Bike
Muu Lecheria Armenia 1810
Noa Noa Lofts (tbn Hotel Babel)
Bonpland 1549
Nuss Buenos Aires Soho
El Salvador 4916
Olaya Humboldt 1550
Olivetti Rep. Arabe de Siria Y Cerviño
Oums cafe & Deli Armenia 1595
Own Palermo Hollywood
Jose Cabrera 5556
Pain & Vin Gorriti 5132
Palermitano Hotel Uriarte 1648
Palermo Place Nicaragua 5865
Palermo Soho Hostel Nicaragua 4728
Palermo Suites Apart & Suites
Fray Justo S. Maria 2529
Palermo Tower Charcas 5955
Pepe Cantero (Main Store)
Honduras 4845
Pepe Cantero (Outlet) Girruchaga 721
Pollock Hotel Boutique (lyns)
Costa Rica 4754
Prodeo Hotel Lounge Gorritti 5374
Q´Arte Galleria Humbolt 1981
Real Revolution Honduras 5143
Rendez Vouz Hotel Bonpland 1484
Rio Cafe Honduras 4772
Solar Soler B&B Soler 5676
The Glu Hotel Godoy Cruz 1733
Torrecillas Soho Godoy Cruz 1655
Tre Design Apartments Migueletes 1773
Ultra Hotel & Bistro Gorriti 4929
Urban Station Palermo Soho
El Salvador 4588
Urbano Parrilla Honduras 5499
Vain Boutique Hotel Thames 2226
Vitrum Hotel Gorriti 5641
Voulez Bar Cerviño 3802
Watt Market El Salvador 4622
PALERMO/BOTÁNICO
Coco Cabello 3794
Guido’s Bar Republica de la India 2843
Museo Evita Restaurante
J.M. Gutierrez 3926
The Pick Market Demaria 4527
Tiendas Naturales Rep. arabe siria 3001
PALERMO/CHICO
Bellini Boutique Hotel Cabello 3780
Croque Madame Cafe (Museo de Arte
Decorativo) Av Callao 1569
Picnic Cervino 3596
Squizi Pizza a la Piedra Cabello 3601
Tea Connection Cervino 3550
PALERMO/HOLLYWOOD
Adorado Nicaragua 5856
Argentine Experience Fitz Roy 2110
Bocca il Lupo Bonpland 1965
Chipper Humbolt 1893
Decata Honduras 6100
Guaresnei Nicaragua 5802
La Alacena Gascon 1401
La Pescaderita Humbolt 1905
Magendie Honduras 5900
More More Pastry Shop
El Salvador 5721
Olivas Soler 5700
Oui Oui Nicaragua 6068
Pani Palermo Hollywood
Nicaragua 6044
The Haig Humbolt 2060
Voltaire Angel Carranza1946
PALERMO/SOHO
Bicicleta Naranja Nicaragua 4825
Burger Joint Borges 1766
Crack Up’ Libros / Resto Bar
Costa Rica 4767