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A Journey to Napa.......

PAGE 1
CHARLIE....... PAGE 27
The Growers....... PAGE 31
The Artisans....... PAGE 95
THE NEW LUXURY....... PAGE 109
The Wilds....... PAGE 161
HISTORY AS INSPIRATION....... PAGE 173
Materia Prima....... PAGE 217
A NEW NAPA CUISINE....... PAGE 229
TECHNIQUES....... PAGE 282
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS....... PAGE 290
INDEX....... PAGE 292
RECIPE INDEX....... PAGE 296
contents
7A JOURNEY TO NAPA
77THE GROWERS
continued
FOR THE SNAPPER PREPARATION:
Put the reserved scales in a container and soak in cold water for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, pour the
salt into a container and bury the snapper fllet in it. Place in the refrigerator for 35 minutes. Rinse
the snapper under ice-cold running water to remove the excess salt and pat dry on paper towels.
Cut the snapper into 4 equal pieces, about 90 grams (3 ounces) each. Store in an airtight container set
over ice in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Pour the oil into a small rondeau and heat to 325F (165C). Drain the scales and pat them almost,
but not completely, dry on paper towels. Add the scales to the hot oil and fry for about 2 minutes.
Transfer to paper towels to drain. Line a dehydrator tray with paper towels, spread the fried scales out
evenly and dehydrate at 125F (52C) for at least 2 hours, until the scales are dry and crispy.
FOR THE SNAPPER BROTH:
Rinse the snapper frames under cold running water for 2 minutes. Pat dry on paper towels and reserve.
In a large bowl or other container, dissolve the ascorbic acid in the water. Working with 1 artichoke
at a time, use a paring knife to remove and discard the green leaves by peeling them away from the
artichoke, exposing the white leaves underneath. Remove the tips of the white leaves and, using a veg-
etable peeler, peel away the green skin from the stem. Cut the artichoke in half lengthwise and imme-
diately submerge in the acidulated water. Repeat with the remaining artichokes.
Place a stockpot over medium heat, add the olive oil and anchovies, and sweat for about 2 min-
utes, until fragrant. Remove the artichokes from the acidulated water, and reserve the water. Add the
artichokes, celery, onion, and green garlic and sweat for 10 minutes longer, until the vegetables are
translucent. Pour in the fumet and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath. When the broth is ready, strain through a very fne cloth flter into a
bowl, then nest the bowl in the ice bath to cool the broth. Season with kosher salt.
FOR THE ARTICHOKES:
Trim the artichokes as you did for the broth, adding them to the same acidulated water. Transfer a
small amount of the acidulated water to a separate container. Scoop out 4 artichoke halves from the
large container and, using a mandoline, shave them into the small container. Refrigerate the small
container of artichokes for later use.
Heat the extra virgin olive oil in a large rondeau over low heat. Add the celery, onion, green garlic,
peppercorns, and bay leaves and sweat for about 10 minutes, until the vegetables are translucent.
Increase the heat to high, add the artichokes and wine and cook until the wine has reduced by half. Add
the water and bring to simmer. Reduce the heat to low and cover the surface with a piece of parchment
paper. Cook for 15 minutes, until the artichokes are tender. To check for doneness, cut of a piece of the
stem; it should cut easily while still maintaining its shape. Remove from the heat.
SERVES 4
SNAPPER PREPARATION
390 grams | 14 ounces red snapper llet,
scales removed and reserved
800 grams | 2
3
/
4
cups kosher salt
600 grams | 2
3
/
4
cups grapeseed oil
SNAPPER BROTH
200 grams | 7 ounces snapper frames
13 grams | 1 tablespoon ascorbic acid
3.8 kilograms | 4 quarts water
90 grams | 3.3 ounces baby artichokes
30 grams | 2 tablespoons plus
3
/
4
teaspoon
extra virgin olive oil
28 grams | 1 ounce anchovy llets
80 grams |
3
/
4
cup celery, in 1-inch
(2.5-centimeter) pieces
250 grams | 1
1
/
2
cups yellow onion, in 1-inch
(2.5-centimeter) pieces
100 grams | 1 cup green garlic, in 1-inch
(2.5-centimeter) pieces
3.8 kilograms | 4 quarts sh fumet
(page 285)
kosher salt
ARTICHOKE PREPARATION
800 grams | 1.8 pounds baby artichokes
13 grams | 1 tablespoon ascorbic acid
30 grams | 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
40 grams |
1
/
3
cup celery, in 1-inch
(2.5-centimeter) pieces
125 grams |
3
/
4
cup yellow onion, in quarters
25 grams |
1
/
4
cup green garlic, in halves
4 grams | 1
3
/
4
teaspoons white peppercorns
1 gram | 1 teaspoon fresh bay leaves
350 grams | 1
1
/
2
cups dry white wine
2 kilograms | about 8 cups water
10 grams | 2 teaspoons Twin Sisters olive oil
kosher salt
Tiny, perfect artichokes appear in the Napa Valley Reserve garden in early spring. We prepare
them in the style of barigoule and serve them with red snapper. The scales are removed from the
snapper, pufed, and served as a garnish along with wild and cultivated greens.
snapper artichoke tiny greens
THE GROWERS78
snapper artichoke tiny greens continued
Prepare an ice bath. Remove 300 grams (10.5 ounces) of the artichokes from the liquid and transfer
to a blender. Strain a small amount of the cooking liquid into a small pitcher. Turn the blender on to
low speed to start mixing the artichokes, adding a small amount of the cooking liquid at a time until
the artichokes become a smooth puree. Increase the speed to high and mix for 1 minute. Turn down
the speed to low and slowly add the Twin Sisters olive oil, being careful not to force the puree out of
emulsifcation. Strain the puree through a chinois into a bowl, then nest the bowl in the ice bath to
cool the puree. Season with kosher salt and transfer to a squeeze bottle. Store in the refrigerator until
ready to serve.
Remove the remaining artichokes from the cooking liquid, cut each half into 3 wedges, and place
in a bowl. Strain the cooking liquid through a very fne cloth flter and combine it with the artichoke
wedges. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
TO SERVE:
Pour about 480 grams (2 cups) of the snapper broth into a shallow saucepan. Add 2 tablespoons of
Twin Sisters olive oil and heat over low heat to 120F (49C). Add the snapper portions and poach for
12 minutes, until the snapper is frm but still stark white. Meanwhile, dress the shaved artichokes in a
small amount of Twin Sisters olive oil and Maldon salt.
Place a few dots of the artichoke puree on each of 4 plates, then put 2 pieces of the braised arti-
choke on each plate. When the snapper is cooked, lay it on top of the artichoke puree. Lay 5 pieces of
the shaved artichoke on each plate. Garnish with the wild garlic, tiny fennel, tiny celery, kale leaves,
and wild chervil.
Twin Sisters olive oil
Maldon sea salt
wild garlic with roots intact
tiny fennel with roots intact
tiny celery leaves
Tuscan kale leaves
wild chervil pluches
31THE GROWERS
the growers
33THE GROWERS
THE GROWERS32
149THE ARTISANS
continued
FOR THE CHERRY VINEGAR:
Combine the cherries and vinegar in a vacuum bag and seal on high. Macerate in the refrigerator for
36 hours, then strain the cherries from the vinegar, discarding them. Transfer the vinegar to a squeeze
bottle and refrigerate until ready to use.
FOR THE CHOCOLATE SHORTBREAD:
Place the chocolate in the freezer for at least 30 minutes while you prepare the dough. Using a tamis,
sift together the four, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt into a metal bowl. In the bowl of a stand
mixer ftted with a paddle attachment, combine the butter and sugar. Mix on medium speed until the
sugar is evenly dispersed throughout the butter. Put the frozen chocolate into a food processor and
mix until pulverized. Add the chocolate powder to the stand mixer and mix on low speed until fully
incorporated, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed to ensure an even mixture. Mix
in the egg yolk and then add the four mixture in three batches, mixing for about 20 seconds total, just
to incorporate. Remove the dough from the mixer, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 325F (165C). Roll the chilled dough into a log and place it at one end of a piece
of parchment paper. Place another piece of parchment paper on top of the dough and press lightly to
fatten. Run through a dough sheeter set to a thickness of about
1
/
32
inch (1 millimeter). Remove the
dough from the parchment, then lay it on a sheet pan and bake for 12 minutes, until the shortbread is
dry and crispy. Let cool to room temperature for 3 hours.
Break the shortbread into manageable pieces and put them into a food processor. Mix to a fne
crumb. Transfer to an airtight container and store at room temperature until needed.
FOR THE CHOCOLATE TART SHELLS:
Melt the chocolate in a double boiler over gently simmering water. Heat until the chocolate registers
108F (42C). Using a rubber spatula, slowly stir in the feuilletine and shortbread crumbs. Spread the
chocolate mixture on a sheet of parchment paper, top with a second parchment sheet, and then pass
through a dough sheeter set to a thickness of between
1
/
8
inch and
1
/
4
inch (4 millimeters). Using a ring
cutter 3 inches (7.5 centimeters) in diameter, cut out circles from the chocolate sheet. Using a small
bowl (about 3 inches/8 centimeters in diameter) and a spoon, mold the chocolate circle around the
bowl to mimic the shape, then place in the freezer. Repeat to make 4 tart shells. Hold in the freezer for
at least 2 hours before use.
SERVES 4
CHERRY VINEGAR
300 grams | 10.5 ounces Bing cherries
1 kilogram | about 4 cups Champagne vinegar
CHOCOLATE SHORTBREAD
100 grams | 3.5 ounces dark chocolate
(72 percent cacao)
125 grams | 1 cup all-purpose our
30 grams |
1
/
3
cup cocoa powder
1 gram |
1
/
4
teaspoon baking powder
4 grams |
3
/
4
teaspoon kosher salt
115 grams |
1
/
2
cup unsalted butter
132 grams |
2
/
3
cup sugar
20 grams | about 1 egg yolk
CHOCOLATE TART SHELLS
300 grams | 10.5 ounces dark chocolate
(72 percent cacao)
80 grams | 2.8 ounces feuilletine
100 grams | 3.5 ounces chocolate shortbread
crumb (recipe above)
We use a series of William and Nikkis earth bowls (see page 104) to mimic the equally rustic edges
of this free-form tart made with chocolate, shortbread, and feuilletine. The pickled cherry dipping
dots and salted cherry leaves provide some acidity that nicely prevents the dish from becoming
a sugar bomb.
chocolate cherry tart
THE ARTISANS150
chocolate cherry tart continued
FOR THE CHERRY PTE DE FRUIT:
Spray a half sheet pan with nonstick cooking spray, then dust lightly with sugar. Combine the apple
pectin and a small portion of the sugar in a small bowl and mix to disperse the pectin evenly. Put the
remaining sugar, the cherry puree, and the glucose in a saucepan and place over medium heat. Heat,
stirring constantly, to 225F (107C), then immediately add the citric acid and pour the liquid into the
prepared sheet pan. Allow the liquid to spread out into a thin layer, then dust additional sugar over the
top. Hold at room temperature for 2 hours, until cool and set.
Using a ring cutter
1
/
4
inch (about 6 millimeters) in diameter, punch out small circles from the
sheet. Store in an airtight container with silica gel packets at room temperature.
FOR THE DARK CHOCOLATE CRMEUX:
Prepare an ice bath. Pour the cream into a saucepan and heat over low heat to 120F (49C). Combine
the chocolate and gellan base in a blender, add the hot cream, and mix on high for 3 minutes, until
smooth. Strain through a chinois into a bowl, then nest the bowl in the ice bath to cool the mixture.
Transfer to a piping bag ftted with a small round tip and refrigerate.
FOR THE GRILLED CHERRY LEAVES:
Prepare a fre in a wood-burning oven. When the fre is at about 600F (315C), arrange the cherry
leaves on the grate and grill for about 10 seconds, until slightly charred. Flip and char the opposite side
for 5 seconds longer. Remove from the oven and arrange on a dehydrator tray lined with paper towels.
Dehydrate at 125F (52C) for 1 hour before use.
FOR THE DRIED CHERRY PUREE:
Put the cherries in a saucepan, add cold water just to cover, and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
Turn down the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, until the cherries are tender. Meanwhile, pre-
pare an ice bath. Transfer the cherries and water to a blender and mix on high speed for 3 minutes,
until smooth. Strain through a chinois into a bowl, then nest the bowl in the ice bath and stir the puree
until cool. Transfer to a squeeze bottle and store in the refrigerator until ready to use.
FOR THE SWEETENED CRME FRACHE:
Prepare an ice bath. Combine the crme frache, sugar, and gellan base in a blender and mix on
medium speed for 2 minutes, until thick and smooth. Do not mix longer, as you do not want to over-
heat the mixture. Strain though a chinois into a bowl, then nest the bowl in the ice bath and stir the
puree to cool. Season lightly with kosher salt, transfer to a squeeze bottle, and store in the refrigerator
until needed.
FOR THE ROASTED BING CHERRIES:
Preheat the oven to 280F (140C). Line a half sheet pan with parchment paper. Combine the cherries,
oil, sugar, and salt in a metal bowl and toss to coat the cherries evenly. Spread the cherries on the pre-
pared sheet pan. Bake for 6 minutes, just until the cherries begin to soften. Let cool at room tempera-
ture, then hold in an airtight container at room temperature.
CHERRY PTE DE FRUIT
400 grams | 2 cups sugar, plus more
for dusting
10 grams | about 2 teaspoons powdered
apple pectin
420 grams | 1
3
/
4
cups Bing cherry puree
(page 287)
84 grams |
2
/
3
cup powdered glucose
6.5 grams | 1
1
/
4
teaspoons citric acid
DARK CHOCOLATE CRMEUX
400 grams | 1
2
/
3
cups heavy cream
300 grams | 10.5 ounces dark chocolate
(72 percent cacao)
30 grams | 1 ounce gellan base (page 285)
GRILLED CHERRY LEAVES
4 | salted cherry leaves
DRIED CHERRY PUREE
400 grams | about 14 ounces dried
tart cherries
SWEETENED CRME FRACHE
400 grams | 1
3
/
4
cups crme frache
(page 283)
50 grams |
1
/
4
cup sugar
200 grams | 7 ounces gellan base (page 285)
kosher salt
ROASTED BING CHERRIES
6 | Bing cherries, halved and pitted
10 grams | 2
1
/
4
teaspoons Twin Sisters
olive oil
12 grams | 1 tablespoon sugar
kosher salt
151THE ARTISANS
FOR THE PICKLED CHERRY SORBET DIPPING DOTS:
Combine the cherry puree and cherry vinegar in a bowl. Using a refractometer, measure the Brix
level naturally occurring in the puree. Adjust the level by adding simple syrup to reach 25 to
27 Brix. Transfer the sorbet base to a large squeeze bottle. Carefully put the liquid nitrogen into a
foam-insulated container (excessive changes in temperature or agitation of the liquid nitrogen may
cause it to become volatile). Put a second foam-insulated container next to the frst one and rest
a strainer over the top. Turn the squeeze bottle upside down over the liquid nitrogen and squeeze
gently to make dots, moving in a circular pattern so as not to drop the dots in the same place twice.
Squeeze about one-fourth of the contents of the bottle, then lightly agitate the sorbet dots using a
metal spatula or other long utensil to ensure they dont adhere to the bottom and sides of the con-
tainer. Pour the contents of the frst container through the strainer resting on the second container.
Break up any clusters, then store the dots in a dry plastic container in the freezer until ready to use.
Repeat until all of the sorbet base has been formed into dots.
TO SERVE:
Place the chocolate tart shells on 4 round plates. Distribute dots of the dark chocolate crmeux, sweet-
ened crme frache, and dried cherry puree on the shells. Place 3 roasted cherry halves around the
dots in each shell and then scatter a few pieces of the cherry pte de fruit around the dots. Reintroduce
the sorbet dipping dots into liquid nitrogen for 10 seconds and, using a slotted spoon, place them
in a pile in the center of the shell. (To discard the liquid nitrogen, carefully pour it back into its original
container.) Break up the cherry leaves and place a few pieces on top of the dots.
PICKLED CHERRY SORBET DIPPING DOTS
600 grams | 2
2
/
3
cups Bing cherry puree
(page 287)
60 grams |
1
/
4
cup cherry vinegar
(page 149)
simple syrup
liquid nitrogen
217MATERIA PRIMA
materia prima
219MATERIA PRIMA
Some of the recipes in this book include raw eggs, meat, or fsh. When these foods are
consumed raw, there is always the risk that bacteria, which is killed by proper cooking,
may be present. For this reason, when serving these foods raw, always buy certifed
salmonella-free eggs and the freshest meat and fsh available from a reliable grocer, storing
them in the refrigerator until they are served. Because of the health risks associated with
the consumption of bacteria that can be present in raw eggs, meat, and fsh, these foods
should not be consumed by infants, small children, pregnant women, the elderly, or any
persons who may be immunocompromised. The author and publisher expressly disclaim
responsibility for any adverse efects that may result from the use or application of the
recipes and information contained in this book.
Copyright 2014 by Christopher Kostow
Photographs copyright 2014 by Peden + Munk
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing
Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of
Random House LLC.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Kostow, Christopher, 1976-
A new Napa cuisine / Christopher Kostow ; photography by Peden + Munk.
pages cm
1. Cooking, American--California style. 2. Napa Valley
(Calif.)--Description and travel. I. Title.
TX715.2.C34K67 2014
641.579419--dc23
2014010462
Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-594-5
eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-595-2
Printed in China
Design: Sarah Gephart, MGMT. design
Photography editor: Luise Stauss, Stauss & Quint
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