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Red Fighting
Compendium



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

A Tribute and Comprehensive Compendium to Red Fighting In
Dagorhir and Belegarth



By Dac Marcinakis
(Micah Drag)
5/30/2014



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About the Author

Micah Drag (fighting name Dac Marcinakis) has 11 years of experience as an active
player and participant in the Dagorhir and Belegarth full contact fighting sports. Of these 11
years, Dac has 4 years experience with sword and board style and 7 years with red two-handed
weapons. Today, Dac still practices and teaches theories, styles, and broad practices related to
the red weapon style. Traditionally from Illinois, Dac fought primarily within the Belegarth
association until 2012, before passing on to Dagorhir. He has participated in various Dagorhir
events most importantly Ragnarok 18-29, and in multiple day battles/smaller events in over 10
states where both games are practiced.
Dacs passion to fight red came from the early inherent challenges red fighting struggled
with in 2008 in the Belegarth field. He noticed that in both Dagorhir and Belegarth, a substantial
amount of blue/sword and board fighting was predominant and successful. Seeking to make the
game more unique with a broader competitive weapon variety, he sought to pioneer an
unconventional style. Dac worked with Andrew J ones (fighting name Ixous Thalanfort) to create
a foundation and framework of techniques and tools a red user could use to overcome any
situation when fighting with a red. On the basis of this achievement and years after, the two
used this foundation to bleed into their own separate styles of red fighting.
The success in red fighting from those years swelled the ranks of the Unit both Dac and
Ixous were a part of- The Order. The Orders chief purpose was to preserve the principles and
foundation of red weapon fighting. Overtime, in an effort to maintain these practices, Dac left the
Order and created The Ebon Light to better preserve this foundation.
These writings form a compendium that are told from Dacs point of view, opinion,
experience, and style, to further help preserve the foundation of red fighting to the greater
Dagorhir/ Belegarth audience. This compendium serves to document his findings and
techniques, with an overall goal to help the community of Dagorhir and Belegarth towards
becoming a game with a broader weapon variety on the field.


~Dac Marcinakis

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Table of Contents
Introduction

1.0 Basic Techniques
1.01 Swing Control
1.02 Shatter Shots
1.03 Stabbing
1.04 Handle Blocking
1.05 Defense against Greens
1.06 Defense against Yellows
1.07 Disengage Attacking
1.08 Handle Gripping
1.09 Posture
1.10 Weaponry: Min Red
1.11 Range Control
1.12 Footing
1.13 Environment: Skirmish
1.14 Breath Control

2.0 Intermediate Techniques
2.01 Casting
2.02 Shield Manipulation
2.03 Feints
2.04 Intimidation Factor
2.05 Grappling
2.06 Kicking
2.07 Spins
2.08 Fighting in Pairs
2.09 Defense against Florentine
2.10 Bucklers

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2.11 Defense against Flails
2.12 Suppressive Fire
2.13 Defense against Reds
2.14 Back Shields
2.15 Defense against Sword and Board
2.16 Style: Power
2.17 Stance: High Guard
2.18 Environment: Line Fighting
2.19 Stance: Soresu Form
2.20 Style: Tech
2.21 Weaponry: Polearms
2.22 Weaponry: Med Red

3.0 Advanced Techniques
3.01 Anticipation Striking
3.02 Indirect Control
3.03 Short Range Fighting
3.04 Deception Factor
3.05 Cross guards
3.06 Flipping
3.07 Drop Pommel Blocking
3.08 Presence of Mind
3.09 Stance: Ataru Form
3.10 Weaponry: Punch and Pie
3.11 Environment: Outnumbered

4.0 Experimental Techniques
4.01 Tumbling
4.02 Halfswording
4.03 Weaponry: Hammers/Axes

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Introduction


Purpose and Disclaimer:
This compendium is specific to qualified red weapons in the Dagorhir and Belegarth full
contact fighting sports, as well as within each sports rule limitations. The reader is
recommended to have fully read the applicable rule book(s) for whatever sport they participate
in before reading this compendium. This compendium covers documented tools and tactics from
a purely practical standpoint which the author has discovered over the years to be successful.
This compendiums goal is to share these findings, help all fighters learn and develop red
fighting from any respective level, and achieve overall improvement on a personal level of red
fighting.
In addition, it is important to note that the contents in this compendium are only
guidelines, containing opinions of the author. Not all methods, techniques, or other actions by
the author may directly translate or function in regards to safety or combat effectiveness.
Rather, this compendium serves to act solely as supplemental information for the betterment of
the Dagorhir and Belegarth fighting community. This compendium is not meant to be read as a
book. Topics are meant to be reviewed on a topic by topic basis, based on what information the
user seeks to find.


To fight red is a difficult road. It can be unforgiving, or a rush at any given time. If an
incorrect decision or move is made, the result is a swift death. In contrast, when the correct
decision has been executed, the result is the swift pay off to victory. The question: how can a
red fighter achieve correct execution for any given situation which leads to pay off and victory?
This compendium seeks to answer that question, giving you the tools and tactics to improve
your red fighting and gaining that execution.

The more you succeed in this sport the more enjoyable it becomes!
~Ixous Thalanfort

This compendium covers 50 subjects that in total encompass major elements of red
fighting. Consistent practice and maintenance of these 50 topics will help you to become a well-
rounded red fighter with a complete foundation. The 50 subjects are broken down into three
families:
School of Offense
School of Defense
School of Balance

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The Schools of Offense and Defense are self-explanatory, indicating techniques and
tools relative to an offensive or defensive nature. The School of Balance holds techniques and
tools that are considered hybrid in nature to its sister schools, and is arguably the most
important of the three.
This compendium breaks the subjects within each school down by these four experience
levels:
Basic
Intermediate
Advanced
Experimental
Basic skill topics are considered critical and first-to-learn for every red user. These topics
should be consistently polished by every red user of any level of experience. It is recommended
that all topics in the basic tier are mastered before moving up to any additional experience level.
The topics at the basic experience level are used the most by every red user on average. These
topics make or break what a skilled red fighter is, based on how much practice and time is
invested into them.
The Intermediate skill topics focus on opening up options for the evolving red user, and
is where the majority of red fighters may choose to stay. At the Intermediate level, a red user
can be extremely successful if the subjects at the Basic and Intermediate tier are being
consistently practiced and maintained. It is for this reason that the Basic and Intermediate
experience levels together are considered the foundation of red fighting. The majority of all the
topics covered are located at the intermediate experience level. This is because red fighting in
general is considered an intermediate weapon style.
The Advanced skill topics serve to further increase the skill level of a red user,
increasing their tool kit and tactics. This level serves to give supplemental information (and in
most ways optional) to add onto the critical foundation found in the first two tiers in all three
schools. These extra topics suit to give the fighter an edge, and an additional set of options if
they choose to utilize them.
The Experimental skill topics are reserved for the veteran red user. These optional topics
are for mostly entertainment purposes and flare, but can give specific advantages when
executed at the right time. As such, limited topics are covered at the experimental experience
level.
Figure 1 below is a chart showing the Three Schools broken down by the 4 experience
levels. It is important to once again note that consistent practice and experience of the base
level is of utmost importance before moving onto a higher experience level. For example,
observe the following situation between two varying red fighters in a duel:
Fighter A invests the majority of his time in advanced experience topics, and
limits his time regarding the basic topics.
Fighter B invests the majority of his time in basic topics, and limits his time in
advanced experience topics.

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In this situation, it is most likely that fighter B will win due to the fact that his basic attack and
defense serves as a better foundation as opposed to fighter A. Investing practice into advanced
topics without paying heed to the basics would most likely lead to fighter B winning the match
over fighter A by a simple, yet solid kill.






















Figure 1 50 Red Subjects

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1.0 Basic
Techniques

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1.01 - Swing Control

Swing control is arguably the most fundamental topic in this compendium. How a red is
controlled is the first thing that sets each and every red fighter apart. It defines the flavor of the
fighter, as well as limitations and effects in their techniques. This ultimately discerns the
outcome of each and every different fight. For example, ask yourself after a death: how did I
conduct my weapon at the time of my death? What could I have done differently? It is likely that
your death is largely related in one way or another to the element of your swing control.
Furthermore, swing control effects a very critical aspect of the game which needs to be
addressed first: safety.
Safety
In both Dagorhir and Belegarth, the causation of most injuries stems from weapon to
body striking. And from that, stems a fighters swing control. Other than archery, red weapons
are the only other weapon on the field that must address and govern striking force per rule
guidelines. For example, a red user must control his red to strike a shield hard enough to
register a hit, but that same force is not always warranted for a body strike (much akin to half-
draw when up close for an archer). In most cases, it is considered overkill compared to the
amount of force that is needed to achieve a kill from a blue weapon. It is no coincidence that
archery and red weapons are front runners in weapon to body injuries. It is for this reason that
swing control must be mastered first and foremost, before any other topic is considered.
The opponents head is the only unauthorized zone to strike with a red under standard
Dagorhir and Belegarth conditions. There is no reason to strike your opponents head under any
circumstance. Therefore, it is of utmost importance to practice swings to that will not risk strikes
to your opponents head. Practicing this will reward you in cleaner strikes with fewer accidents,
and ensures you are abiding by the rules of Dagorhir and Belegarth, to include being
considerate towards fellow players.
Figure 2 below shows the human body in terms of strike zones with the overarching
clock to better define positions of striking.










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Figure 2 Body Clock strike angles

For the most part, avoid shots from the 11 oclock to 1 oclock area, as these are high
risk zones, with 12 oclock being a direct hit to the head. This is easier said than done as the
very nature of a red is bulky, and certain situations in combat limit shots from the various other
angles (for example: congested line fighting). However, it is your responsibility to not hit your
opponents head with your weapon. In general, the closer the shot is to 12 oclock, the higher the
risk; as the opponent can move and dodge their head from side to side. In addition, the farther
from 12 oclock a red is swung, the more inherit benefits a red user receives when they swing.
This will be covered in detail later in this topic.
It is important to attempt to shoot for and demand a zero head shot record, even if not
possible as accidents will happen. A red fighter with a reputation of giving head shots not only
shows that they are unsafe to the community, but that they do not have good general control
over their weapon (because no one WANTS to strike their opponents head). As a result, if a
fighter exhibits a lack of general control, they are considered unskilled or reckless. In a worst
case scenario, the consequences can be as dire as a serious injury with both fighters being
removed from the game.
You are responsible for everyone elses fun
~Mithris of Eryndor
Weapon Mass
Get to know the properties of your weapon and become familiar with it, especially the
weight. As physics goes, the weapons mass combined with its acceleration grants the force of
a weapon. The lighter the weapon, the better the stop-and-go potential is; such as a minimum
24oz red. On the other hand, the heavier the weapon, the longer it will maintain that force; such

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as a hammer. This is important, because a weapons mass effects its force as well as its
acceleration. This in turn can affect a red fighters toolkit (i.e. sacrificing feinting capabilities for
improved shattering potential). For this compendium, we will substitute force for the commonly
used term power in Dagorhir and Belegarth.
Power
As stated above in the safety section, reds must govern how much power must be put
into their swing. Swinging too hard, or not hard enough, can limit the red users toolkit and even
open them up for a death. Knowing when and how much power takes consistent practice to
master. For this compendium a percentage scale is used. As shown in Figure 3 below, a power
table for a 24 oz. minimum red is used as a representative example.























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Power Concept Energy Use Control Use
100% As much power a red
fighter can possibly
muster. Generates
an enormous amount
of intimidation.
Maximum swing
potential- NA
Impossible to redirect or
pull shot. Power comes
from many various
muscles groups.
For purposes of this compendium, it is
never recommended to use 100%. If a
red user is using 100%, it may be
apparent that they are compensating,
i.e. a lack of skillset.
99%-80% Additional power for
special situations.
Generates a large
amount of
intimidation.
Equivalent to ~4
blue swings.
Minimal options to
redirect or pull a shot.
Majority of power
comes from the back
and upper arm muscle
groups.
Power needed for exception shield hits
for shield men that demand more power
before a solid hit is achieved. Should
be rarely used. May be used to shatter a
fighters defense.
79%-60% A general solid
blow shield hit.
Generates some
intimidation.
Equivalent to ~3
blue swings.
Able to moderately
redirect the shot,
towards a nearby
quadrant. Able to
partially pull shot power
under most situations.
Majority of power
comes from the back
and upper arm muscle
groups.
In terms of striking a shield, it is
recommend to gain a general calibration
for what is considered a solid blow.
Extra power is added on a case by case
basis.
59%-40% Solid body striking
power. Generates
minor intimidation.
Equivalent to ~2
blue swings.
Able to redirect
completely (Feint) and
pull shot power. Majority
of the power comes
from the upper arm and
forearm muscle groups.
A standard hit.
39%-20% Minimum body
striking power. Does
not generate
intimidation.
Equivalent to ~1
blue swing.
Able to redirect
completely (Feint) and
pull shot. Majority of the
shot comes from
forearm and wrist
muscle groups.
In some cases, additional power is
needed on a case by case basis per
opponent judging the hit, and more
power may be required. Minimum body
striking power should only be used for
conserving energy if used at all.
Commonly used for spear manipulation
and friendly sparring.
19%-1% Courtesy strike, or a
strike that has
insufficient power to
achieve a hit. Does
not generate
intimidation.
Equivalent to ~1/2
of a blue swing.
Unlimited redirect and
pull capability. Majority
of the shot comes from
wrist muscle groups.
Courtesy strikes are for formality
purposes, taking safety into the utmost
consideration; such as tapping archer
bows

Figure 3 Power Chart

As the chart indicates, depending on how much power is used can alter a fighters
toolkit, energy consumption, muscle groups, and general control of the weapon. The
descriptions above serve as guidelines of examples of how much power to use in any given

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situation for a minimum red considering a person of average strength. It is the red fighters
challenge to decide how much power is needed in a real time case-by-case/ weapon-by-
weapon basis.
Acceleration
Acceleration is the measure of time it takes to make the users red to go from being still
to the desired speed given its mass. In general, the more acceleration the better, as increased
acceleration lowers the red fighters opponents reaction time and chance to block. A red
fighters acceleration skill can be practiced every time they swing.
Precision and Accuracy
Your precision and accuracy marks a kill or no kill. Combined with power, landing the
shot on the part of your opponent is what takes skill and practice.
As stated above in the safety section of this topic, you receive inherit benefits for aiming
farther away from the 12 o clock head shot. Shots that have a lower safety risk can be taken
advantage of in many different ways.
For example, a red user knows they do not have good accuracy or precision, but want to
avoid the risk of hitting their opponent in the head. They can choose to throw a 9 o clock shot
towards the opponents lower calf to receive inherit bonuses. Because they know it has a low
chance of hitting the opponents head, the red user can increase the power from 60% to 79%
(or perhaps even higher). As a result, the benefits include generating more intimidation, possible
shattering of the opponents block, and a more likely connection with the opponents leg (at the
cost of more energy). In contrast, should the red user attempt an 11 o clock shot to the
opponents shoulder, they will have to severely limit the power due to the higher risk (using less
energy), and thus increasing the chance the opponent will block the shot. If the red user is
reckless and chooses not to limit power for the 11 o clock shot, they sacrifice some capability to
redirect or pull the weapon. This further increases the risk the shot will be on path towards their
opponents head. In summary, the lower you aim to swing away from your opponents head, the
more freedom you have to swing harder while still being a responsible and safe fighter.
Summary
For any given shot, choosing how much power to use, how accurately and precise it will
be, and taking into consideration of how to best use a weapons properties, is the inherit
challenge of weapon swing control. These three properties must be consistently practiced to
ensure safety, effectiveness, and efficiency of any red user for each and every red swing.

1.02 - Shatter Shots

A shattering shot is when a weapon is swung with enough power to cause a disruption
or compromise in the opponents block. When a weapon is swung with enough force, the swing
continues through the block and can strike the opponent. If the defender does not properly
prepare enough for a strike, such as bracing enough for a block, the disruption or shattering can
give inherit advantages to the attacker. Reds naturally carry high potential towards being able to

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shatter a block, more so than any other weapon type. It is for this reason that red fighters should
take advantage of this property, as even a compendium topic is reserved for shatter shots.
There are many types of shatters, and many different ways to deliver them. This all
depends largely on the mass and delivery of the attackers weapon, and the mass and block
potential of the defenders weapon/shield. In addition, it is worth noting shattering potential
varies greatly by attacker/defender strength.
Types of Shatters
Fumble
Disarm
Blow through
A fumble is when a shattering shot makes the defender loose balance or lose control of their
weapon/shield for a brief second. That brief second window (0.25-0.5 sec) gives the attacker a
distinct advantage on their next strike.
A disarm happens when the defenders weapon or shield is completely taken out of their
control. This is a more severe shatter, and can usually mean a quick death for the defender.
A blow through happens when the shattering shot connects with a block, but continues on
towards the limb/body it was intended to block.
To shatter a defense, the offensive swing must be greater than the block. It is important to
take into consideration this relationship, using enough power to safety generate a shattering
shot without causing injury or leaving an opening.

Shatter= Shot Power>Block Power

Block Power
To better understand this relationship, it is important to understand the defenders blocking
power. There are many attributes to consider to determine how well the defender can block, or
absorb the shots energy.
Defenders stature or overall strength
Defenders experience or knowledge against you
Defenders observed holding of weapon/shield
Defenders type of weapon/shield used
Defenders additional equipment which is designed to absorb energy of a shot; i.e.
protective equipment
Take all of these attributes into consideration. It takes time, experience, and practice to
calibrate how much power is needed to overcome the block.
The defenders stature and overall strength can play a big part in blocking power. Is the
defender bigger than the attacker? Males are typically greater in size, density, and weight than

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females, and thus can absorb more power. A defender with great strength will allow them to
have a better grip on the weapon/shield.
If the defender has experience in fighting, it can increase the blocking power. Even more so
if the defender has specific experience fighting the attacker. The reason is because the
defender may know ahead of time, and be prepared for shots the attacker may throw.
How the defender is holding their weapon/shield at the time of the strike plays a major role.
Timing is essential, and catching the defender holding a weapon/shield in an awkward position
can greatly reduce the blocking power. How does the defender choose to hold their
weapon/shield? When striking a weapon, the farther the strike is away from the handle, the less
the blocking power. Conversely, when a shot is thrown closer to the handle, the greater the
blocking power. When striking a shield, the more the shield edge is facing the attacker, the less
blocking power the shield has. Conversely, the less shield edge facing the attacker, the more
blocking power the shield has. Figure 4 and Figure 5 below show examples of position set ups
with low and high blocking power.










Figure 4 High Blocking Power Figure 5 Low Blocking Power

The types of weapons/shields being struck also play a major role. Most importantly,
weapons and shields that have a greater mass have a greater blocking power, as it takes more
power to move that weapon/shield. By nature, some weapons and shields have out of the box
limitations on blocking power due to a lack of the opponents capability to grip or hold onto the
weapon/shield or from being too light. Figure 6 below shows some types of weapons and
shields in regards to their natural blocking power.





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1
1.5
2.5
3.2
3.8
4.5
5
5.4
6
6.5
6.9
7.3
8
8.2
9
10
Natural Block Power












Figure 6 Natural Blocking Power Chart

Lastly, it is important to take into consideration the defenders additional gear, and how it
interfaces with the attackers shots. Does the defenders weapon have a wrist cord attached? Is
the defender wearing a high amount of protective gear or armor to absorb additional power? For
example, a defender blocking with a single blue wearing full metal armor and under padding will
have a much greater blocking power than an opponent wielding a single blue wearing little but a
loin cloth!
Shot Power
The other side of the coin, shot power, is the measure of a shot which the attacker
hopes will be greater than the defenders block. Like blocking power, there are many different
factors that have to be taken into consideration that can greatly affect shot power.
Attackers general strength
Attackers swing angle
Attackers timing
Attackers body Mechanics
Attackers type of weapon
Strength is very important when attempting to pull off a shattering shot. From strength
stems the attackers ability to generate power. In general, a large amount of power (usually 65%
+) is needed to generate a shattering shot. This is because in order to be disruptive towards the
block, and the power of the shot must be greater than the blocking power. Dagorhir/Belegarth
weapons are built in such a way to be light and fluffy in order to prevent injury. Therefore, the

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weapons tend to not gain momentum as easily, and instead generate drag as they are swung
through the air. It is for this reason that blocking power is easier to obtain than shot power. And
as such, a large amount of power is needed to make up for the inherit Dagorhir/Belegarth
weapon properties. Fortunately, there are other ways to generate shot power in addition to a
fighters strength.
Swing angle is very important in positively effecting shot power. Broad 9 oclock/3
oclock strokes utilize major muscle groups in the back and upper arm. Overhead 11 oclock/ 1
oclock shots generate even more as the shot is working with gravity. However, due to safety,
overhead 11 oclock/ 1 oclock shots should never be utilized, especially to attempt a shatter
shot. It is important to note that the more perpendicular a shot connects with a block, the less
chance that shot will shatter the block. Conversely, the more a shot connects with a block off the
perpendicular base, the greater the chance that shot will shatter. Figure 7 below shows an
example a perpendicular block.










Figure 7 Perpendicular Blocking

Timing a shatter shot is key. Swing for swing, in Dagorhir and Belegarth, the weapon
speeds and directional changes happen very fast. Sometimes only opportune moments exist for
a fraction of a second. In general, most shattering shots happen by chance. Very commonly in
this situation, neither the attacker nor the defender are expecting it. To set up good timing and
increase the chance of a shatter, the attacker can insert feints into their motions to off balance
the defender, adding increased power immediately after. Another option is to throw a changeup.
This is done by throwing multiple weaker power shots creating a pattern, followed by a
substantially powerful shot. Timing may also be considered in situations where the defender is
not paying full attention to the attacker. If a shot is thrown at this time, the blocking power will be
severely decreased, as the defender is paying attention to something or someone else.
Body mechanics is what fuels the attackers shot. An experienced fighter can throw a
shot double the power of an inexperienced fighter with same effort exerted. Having legs a good
distance apart, yet comfortable, and with the lead foot forward, creates the foundation. On the

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swing, utilize the bulky larger muscles from the back and upper arms. If you intend to generate a
shatter shot, the power and muscles used should predominantly come from your back, given
you have a good foundation. More details regarding footwork will be discussed in a later topic.
Figure 8 below shows a fighter with a good foundation capable of delivering a powerful shatter
shot.

















Figure 8 A Fighter with Solid Foundation Footing

Lastly, the properties of the attackers weapon in relation to the defenders weapon plays
a huge part in granting a successful shatter shot. As stated before, mass can play a big part of
the advantage or disadvantage based on who has the heavier weapon, and by what degree.
Figure 9 below shows an extreme example this mass difference in the attackers favor.





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Figure 9 Mass Difference in Reds

Summary
Understand the relationship between blocking power and shot power, and the kinds of
shattering shots that can be produced. Practice and calibration is needed to better execute a
shatter shot, as well as knowing how much power is needed to overcome a defenders blocking
power. There are many attributes acting behind both sides of the block and the shot. Therefore,
continuous experience is needed to fully perform a shattering shot on demand.

1.03 - Stabbing

Stabbing is an essential tool to attain early in a red fighters career. It is never too late to
learn how to stab, as it will benefit a red fighter greatly given the weapon is capable for stabbing.
A passing Dagorhir or Belegarth weapon must have a softer, open cell foam construction, and
must pass all stabbing safety specifications. Weapons must also be marked to indicate a
weapon is capable of stabbing. This is important to look for when vsing your opponent. For
example, if an attacker can stab, and knows the defenders weapon cannot stab, the attacker
has more options and the advantage. For this compendium, we will limit stabbing discussion to
a standard red sword (Minimum/Medium in length and weight). It is important to note that each

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fighter should become well attuned to their weapons properties as stabbing potentials change
length for length and weight for weight.
Pros and Cons of a Stab
Stabbing grants an inherit bonus of range when executed correctly, and in most
situations, grants an immediate kill. It is also the ace in the hole move, in that a stab varies
greatly from the slashing group of moves giving a sort of surprise attack. In many situations, the
defender will not be expecting a stab from the attacker. This is because the majority of red
attacks are slashing, and it is common for reds to not even be outfitted with stabbing capability.
Stabs are a great tool for safely getting into those hard to reach places on a defenders torso,
where any slash angle cannot get at. Conversely, if not executed and timed well, a failed stab
can leave an attacker out of position with no momentum, which is a place danger. For a red
fighter, stabs are quick in execution, but take some time to return the weapon to a neutral
position after. Understand this reload time, and take it into consideration before throwing a
stab.
How to Stab
Body mechanics, are key in performing a stab. The greatest attribute to a stab,
especially with a red, is that it grants increased range. For this reason, it is recommended in this
compendium to mainly utilize single green stabs.
To perform a single green stab, start the lunge with two hands guiding towards the
opponent. Shoot for a direct A to B distance, as this will both maximize the range, and time to
impact. This is normally in the chest area of the opponent. As the red is halfway to target,
release the guiding top hand, and twist the torso 90 degrees to gain maximum extension of the
arm holding the red (Left hand for righties, right hand for lefties). Whichever way preferred,
ultimately it is important to have the extended hand at the bottom of the handle, and the same
foot forward. This will allow the fighter to lean forward to achieve greater range, while
maintaining balance. Figure 10 below shows a full extension stab.












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Figure 10 Full Extension Stab

When the stab is started, aim slightly higher (about 1-2 inches) on the defender from
where you want to hit. Red weapons drop slightly once the top hand is released from the
handle. This is because the nature of both a reds weight, and the biomechanical limits for a
human arm to hold a red perfectly straight. Practice and calibration is needed to determine the
fall of any specific red from point A to point B. Figure 11 below shows an example of aiming a
stab for a 24oz min red.










Figure 11 Weapon Drop from Aimed Point to Hit

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When to Stab
When defender has been
legged
Adjacent angles
Slower, stationary, bulkier
defender
At the end of a fluid combo
In control of the fight
Supported by teammates
When not to Stab
Defender has armor
Defender is covered by a
good sized shield
Defender is highly agile
Outnumbered
Limited room to retreat
Defender is ready for a stab
When to Stab
Red weapons usually have more opportunities to stab than blue weapons. This is
because of the increased range a red weapon has over blue weapons. Knowing that a red
weapon has more opportunities than a blue does not mean to throw a stabbing shot at a whim.
In general, the longer the weapon committing the stab, the more important it is to land the shot.
This is due to the fact that longer weapons are clumsier and less agile with a longer resetting
time. Throwing a stab at the wrong time can leave the red user open to a rush, arrow, adjacent
strikes, or other shots. Once a stab has been thrown it disrupts all fluid motion, and thus any
follow up strikes thereafter will take time. Figure 12 below outlines some good and bad
situations to throwing a stabbing shot.











Figure 12 When and When Not to Stab

When the defender has been legged, it cuts mobility out of the situation. Should a stab
fail, the attacker can back off and reposition the red and either try again or work a different
strategy. In addition, when stabbing a legged defender, the attacker gains increased range, and
in most cases can permanently out range the defender. This promotes a low risk, high reward
situation for the attacker.
Stabbing at adjacent angles is mainly used in line fighting. When both sides are lined up,
opponents typically square off face to face. The enemy adjacent to the red user is usually not
prepared for a stab. The reason being, they are looking straight ahead, or have not properly
taken into consideration the range benefit the red gains when lunging for a stab. It is important
to not leave yourself open to the enemy in front of you while you shoot for an adjacent stab.
Figure 13 below shows a simple diagram of the adjacent stab. Note the added range a red
receives.


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Blue Shot Red Shot Single Green Shot



Figure 13 Adjacent Stab Range

It is appropriate to throw a stab at the end of a combo of attacks. Such as when the
defender is in a defensive state, and the attacker is more likely to be able to return to a neutral
position. Given the nature of how a stab can disrupt flow, it is a good idea to fit it in at the end of
1-2 feint/stab combo. If the red fighter instead leads with a stab, the accuracy and focus of the
stab will be high, but it will limit the flow of any following attack the red user chooses to throw
after.
Teammates can fill in should a stab fail on a line or skirmish. They prevent the enemy
from rushing the red stabber, and act as a safety net should the stab fail or the red stabber is
caught open. This allows the red stabber to reset and even attempt a stab again.
When not to Stab
As stated above, when a stab is performed by a red user, it is a single green. A single
green stab will have no effect against an opponent that is wearing armor. If a stab must be done
in this situation, range must be sacrificed for a two handed stab. This closer range can leave the
red fighter open to strikes.
Shields not only are immune to stabs, but can stop any momentum or power behind the
green strike. It is for this reason that shields have inherit strengths against stabbing attacks. The
larger the shield, the more difficult it is to execute a successful stab. For this compendium, it is
not recommended to throw a stab against shields that are greater than 24 inches in diameter.
Being outnumbered for a red user is an extremely difficult situation. This situation will be
covered in more detail in the advanced section under topic 3.11 - Environment: Outnumbered.
Throwing a stab in this situation may grant one kill, but will leave the red user performing the
stab open to the other strikes that will most likely follow up after the stab. Because it takes a
considerable time to reset after a stab, the chances for the red fighters survival is low. There
are many other advantageous options to consider in this situation beyond choosing to stab.
Highly agile defenders are not only very difficult to hit, but their agility grants them the
ability to close range after the stab. If a stab must be thrown against an agile fighter, the red
attacker must be sure that the stab connects. It is recommended to leg agile fighters before
executing a stab. This takes the dodging/gap closing properties out of the situation. In effect, the
defender becomes slower than the attacker.
Having limited room to retreat is similar to being outnumbered. Should a stab miss, the
red attacker has limited room to back off to properly reset.

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Knowing your enemy is key. Stabbing fills the ace in the hole role well, as its potential
lies in its surprise. If the Defender is well aware of a stab, not only does it take away the surprise
advantage, but the defender will be ready for the next move against a red that hasnt reset.
Where to Stab
The most effective place to stab with a red is on the torso. When committing to a stab
with a red, you want your shot to be a one hit kill. There are various spots or pockets on the
torso that will grant this kill. Refer again to the target dummy on Figure 14 below for some
recommended target areas this compendium covers.









Figure 14 Recommended Target Areas for Stabs

It is important to note that center torso was not chosen as an opportune strike zone for
two reasons. First, for safety reasons, as the lower sternum is a safety risk; even though
Dagorhir and Belegarth weapons are constructed for such a hit. Second, center torso has the
highest block potential. It is the neutral position for most guards, lefty/righty, and holds the most
shield coverage on average. Instead, it is important to shoot for above and below center torso,
where the torso is not as guarded. Additional left and right pockets on the torso are typically
even less guarded.
The upper sternum is a sold choice to shoot for a stab. Unlike the other 5 zones, the
upper sternum is also the most efficient and quickest point for a stab, as it is the most direct
from point A to point B. Though the defender can deflect the shot, the stab has a high chance to
continue on and still connect with the torso. The stomach holds the same properties of
deflection to left or right possibly granting a kill like the upper sternum, but still avoids center
torso which is typically the heaviest guarded. The upper pocket slots and lower pocket slots are
less covered on average than the upper sternum and stomach, but if deflected by the defender,
has a high chance to miss or strike an arm/leg instead of the torso.


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1.04 - Handle Blocking

Handle blocking can be considered the red fighters primary defense, because it is
something that every red fighter can rely on. It is for this reason that handle blocking is located
in the basic school of defense. Secondary tools for blocking are items such as side arms and
shields i.e. bucklers, back shields etc. We will cover these secondary defensive tools in later
topics.
Even though handle blocking is listed as a fundamental or basic skill, it has only been
practiced actively since 2011 as a primary reliable defense across all red styles. Before handle
blocking, red users (and still many traditional fighters today) used a standard parry. Handle
blocking is blocking with the handle of the red, while parrying is loosely referred to in this
compendium as blocking with the blade. Figure 15 below shows examples of a handle block
and a parry.











Figure 15 Examples of Left: Handle Block/ Right: Parry

In many ways, foam weapons are very different in weight, physics, and other
characteristics than to a traditional weapon. Foam weapons can weigh as little as a coke can
(12oz). They can accelerate, decelerate, and maneuver at far greater speeds than a traditional
wooden or metal weapon. In addition, the amount of force needed for a foam weapon to make a
killing strike is much less than a traditional weapon (such as a flick of the wrist for a blue). For
these reasons, this compendium will only cover handle blocking, as it is a competitively
advantageous and efficient method to blocking for red weapon fighters in the Dagorhir and
Belegarth fighting sport.



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How to Handle Block
Hold the red with one hand choked all the way up the stock as far as possible, and the
other hand all the way choked down near the pommel. This is to ensure you have the most
space in between your hands to handle block with. It is recommended for any dimension red, to
have the maximum amount of handle that is allowed within Dagorhir and Belegarth limitations. It
is not recommended to attempt handle blocking with a red that has fewer than 6 inches of space
in between the grip. Figure 16 below shows a simple set up of where hands should be located
on a red. In combat, it is important to attempt to keep the hands separated as much as possible
at all times. This is because the red fighter never knows when a handle block will be needed, as
well as minimizing the risk of a shot hitting the hands during a handle block attempt. It also
promotes better body mechanics towards returning to a neutral position from striking.












Figure 16 Neutral Hand Positioning on a Red

When an attack comes in, block the shot using the handle in between your hands. It is
important to limit any hits done to your hands for your safety. Try to block the shot keeping the
handle perpendicular as possible to the opponents blade. Doing this is the most effective
method of absorbing all momentum and force, thus controlling your opponents strike. Shots
caught enough off the 90 degree angle can glance off the handle, and continue on towards the
arm, leg, hands, or body.
After successfully blocking a shot on the handle, it is recommended immediately
retaliate. Due to the setup of the block, as well as the position of the opponents weapon, the
fighter utilizing the handle block can quickly strike back as they will already be in a neutral
position (sword blade up). This key reason allows a handle blocking red fighter to even keep up
with rapid blue weapon strikes for a short period of time, and allows for competitive combat for a
red fighter in terms of speed.

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Use the handle to block stabs by pushing them straight down. Although there are many
other advanced options requiring further experience, handle blocking down is the most basic
and safe, serving as an excellent fundamental starting point. This keeps the stab away from the
torso. If the stab is blocked to the left or right, the stab may continue on to hit a teammate. If the
stab is blocked upwards, it can hit either the torso or the face. It allows the red fighter to put the
stab in between the legs where it will hit nothing or can be manipulated by the legs (such as a
spear).
Obviously, blocking a shot with 6+inches of room on a handle is easier said than done!
Continuous practice is needed to turn the skill of handle blocking into instinct; repetition is key.
To practice, get a partner, and practice blocking in each others general strike zones. Figure 17
below shows a general layout of the strike zones. Have your partner with a blue slowly tap each
strike zone randomly. Start with two zones, then increase until all zones are covered. Aim to not
only perform the handle block, but with a clean perpendicular angle between your partners
weapon and your handle. Have your partner increase the speed of the swings at the random
zones to include feints. Have your partner then switch from a blue to a minimum red, so to
practice handle blocking red shots. When your partner has increased the pace to a point where
they cannot land a hit, handle blocking has then been successfully honed into instinct.













Figure 17 Handle Blocking Quadrants

It is important to not reach out for a block. Reaching out opens up the sides of the body
for wraps, and extends the elbows away from the chest. In line fighting, adjacent enemies have
an easier time attacking arms when they are extended from the body. Figures 18, 19, and 20
below show the front and side view of the body, and where the handle should be to fully prevent

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a wrap shot while preventing reaching. This position will not feel natural, and does take some
time to get used to.














Figure 18 Front View Figure 19 Side View Figure 20 Side View Expanded

**For additional content regarding the handle blocking process:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MklzNDa8oWI
Pros and Cons of Handle Blocking
Handle blocking can give many advantages for a red fighter. When executed and timed
even only moderately well, it can simultaneously defend and set the red fighter up for a clean
kill. Conversely, a parry must be timed and executed very well to achieve the same results.
However, great responsibility must be taken into consideration from a safety perspective if a red
fighter wishes to utilize handle blocking instead of traditional parrying.
As stated above, the major benefit handle blocking offers is that a shot can be blocked
by the handle of the red, with an opportunity for an immediate return shot. In addition to this
benefit, handle blocking is very resistant to shattering effects of any blow. This resistance to
shattering allows handle blocking powerful shots with a return strike that is steady, and with
better control. For more information regarding shattering, see topic 1.02 Shatter Shots. Lastly,
handle blocking is efficient. Typically the handle at rest is held in the neutral position. This
neutral position allows the red fighter to quickly react to any incoming strike in a 360 degree
radius. Speed is key in Dagorhir and Belegarth, and being able to block faster gives a significant

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advantage. Combined, these properties give a solid defense without sacrificing any offensive
capabilities.
The major downside to handle blocking is personal safety. The red fighter must take
great care to protect their hands. This is because handle blocking has a high chance of striking
the hands instead of the handle. Though hand strikes are not considered a hit in the game of
Dagorhir or Belegarth, they still can cause injury. The hands, fingers, thumbs, and joints are
delicate parts of the body, which are not able to withstand large amounts of force. For these
reasons, it is strongly recommended full hand protection is used.
For this compendium, hockey gloves are recommended as suitable protection. This is
because each finger and hand have a large amount of impact absorption padding; but also
because the thumb is fixed and reinforced yet flexible within the glove sleeve. To stay within
Dagorhir and Belegarth garb requirements, paint over or remove all branding and modern
decals. Though not required, it is also highly recommended to cut off the base wrist protector of
the gloves. The wrists are a legal strike zone, and taking off the padding at the wrist better
identifies to the defender and attacker if either the wrist or hand was struck. Figure 21 below
shows a recommended style of hockey glove (unpainted), with the portion that can be removed.

















Figure 21 - Inhaler AC-1 Hockey Glove: http://inhaler.missionhockey.com/gloves-ac1.aspx

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1.05 - Defense against Greens

The ability to utilize a green stab can be placed on almost all weapons. For this
compendium, the focus will be on the specialized green weapon: the spear. This section will
cover various methods of combating the standard spear in multiple different scenarios.
Spear Advantages
Most of the time, a red fighter will find that spears will outmatch them in terms of range.
This of course is the main advantage of a spear. Spears can only deal green stabbing damage
at the cost of this range, but do not lose any speed in the exchange. Spears are also the most
effective in a line fighting situation. Due to this range advantage, a spearman is able to hide
behind the front line and still attack. Figure 22 below shows two spears controlling a line in a
bridge battle, each behind a shield man.
















Figure 22 Spears Controlling a Line

Spears are especially dangerous towards reds, as a red fighter does not have a
dedicated shield, or can lack a shield all together. Because of the length, spears are also able to
hit many targets of opportunity from adjacent angles. As a result, spears generally score a high

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21%
3%
12%
35%
28%
1%
Red Fighter Fatality Probality in Line Fighting - Death By Weapon Type
SnB Florintene Red Yellow Spears (and Glaves) White
number of kills and limbs on a given line fight. Figure 23 below shows approximate fatality
probability for a red fighter in a high population line fight.













Figure 23 Red Fighter Probability in Line Fighting

As the chart shows, green (and glave) fighters hold a solid part of the risk a red fighter
has to be concerned about on the line. The highest risk shown is yellow based damage, which
is covered in the topic 1.06 - Defense against Yellows.
Spear Control
Though spears pose a high risk to a red fighter, there are many ways to combat spear
fighters. The tip of the spear is the only point in which can deal green damage, and thus require
a forward thrust to achieve that green hit. An element of multitasking is required to pull off spear
control, killing your opponent, all while defending yourself. The following are three key options
for controlling a spear.
Grabbing
Stepping
Pinning
Manipulating
It is important to note that red weapon users have a free hand. Using this free hand for
grabbing spears is critical. When a spear shot comes in, dodge to the left or right or block down,
and release a hand off the red to grab the spear by the shaft. Do not dodge backwards if
possible, as the spear can still strike if the range has not been gauged properly. When the spear
has been successfully grabbed, yell out to teammates to assist in the pull. Keep the tip of the

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green secure, as it can still be shoved forward committing a strike to the red fighter, or his allies.
Your objective is to pull the spear out of the users hands, disarming them. Grabbing a spear can
still put the red user at risk. During the tug-o-war, the red user should use the hand holding
their red to parry incoming shots from other opponents. If there is no risk to incoming shots, the
red user may use both hands to gain increased pulling power. It is important to note that through
the grabbing process to never forfeit your red, as this disarms you! A final option is to pull the
spear wielder close enough for a blue strike from the red weapon. Figure 24 below shows a
spear grab. Note one hand is holding both the red and the spear.











Figure 24 Standard Spear Grab

Spear stepping is the action of blocking the spear down with the red, and walking up the
shaft of the spear in between the legs to achieve a kill. Figure 20 in topic 1.04 - Handle
Blocking, shows a simple overview of how to block a spear down. Spear stepping is effective,
because it keeps the spear under the red fighters control (in between legs), and takes the tip
out of the scenario. Pay special attention to the situation before committing a spear step. For
example, it is not desirable to commit a spear step in a line fight, as adjacent enemies can strike
the red fighter as they step up the spear.
Spear pinning is another effective way of spear control. Spear pinning is best utilized in
cramped line fighting situations where a grab or step is not possible, or of high risk. Block the
spear down, and place your foot on the shaft of the spear. Unlike grabbing, this neutralizes the
spearhead, and keeps two hands free, but sacrifices some footing/positioning in the process.
While the spear is pinned, the red fighter may attempt to strike the spear user if in range, as well
as continue to fight other opponents at immediate risk. It is important to only apply enough force
to pin the spear, with active awareness with the situation at the other end of the spear. It is not
recommended to step directly on the spear head. This is to prevent any damage being done to
the spear head itself. If the spear user shows concern for their weapon, or if high torque is felt-
release the pin. Remember that releasing the pin gives control back to the spear user.

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Manipulating is when the red fighter moves the spear with their red. Manipulating is a
very common go to method, as it is the most straight forward and least risky. There are many
types of manipulations. First, and among the simplest, is spear striking. This takes away the
spear users capability to strike, though only momentarily. However, striking can be done
frequently with little risk. Simply strike the spear light or hard based on desired results. The
harder the strike, the longer it will take the spear user to regain control (but at the cost of
energy). For example, try rapid consistent small taps, followed by brutal hard strike. Second, a
more complex manipulation method is a whirl manipulation. Place the red onto the spear and
whirl in a circular motion. Centripetal force works in the red fighters favor, and throws the spear
greatly out of control. When the spear has reached a point where the spear user has lost
enough control, the red user may close the distance and commit for a kill.
Additional video on spear control:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EEn9g3wIaQ&list=UUYvjVswU6CzMRCyoENE0jVQ#t=450
Spear Sidearms
Regardless of using any of the above techniques stated above, it is important to always
be aware of any side arms a spear wielder may carry. Any experienced, and well-rounded spear
fighter will carry a short range sidearm in combination with their spear. This sidearm ranges
from single blues such as swords or flails to daggers, and it will be used as a backup to the
spear. In addition to this, a spear fighter may also carry a strapped on shield as well! Pay
attention to how the sidearm interfaces with the spear user. For example, is it ready in hand? Is
it on a cord attached to the wrist? Or is it stowed away on the side or back of the spear fighter.
How fast the spear fighter can access the sidearm can play a big factor. Figure 25 below shows
some properties strengths and weakness based on how a sidearm is carried.

Offhand Position Strengths Weaknesses
Stowed in hand with spear
Tied to wrist, hanging
Stowed on body

Figure 25 Sidearm Properties Chart


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Closing on a spear fighter with a sidearm is a two part process. The red fighter must first
get past the spear tip, and then deal with the short range sidearm which is faster than a red. The
red fighter is in a severe disadvantage any way they approach the spear (spear tip outranges a
red, blue sidearm is faster up close than a red), and thus is a direct counter to a red fighter.
Take into consideration the given situation when deciding to attack a spear with a sidearm. An
engagement will take time, and will expose the red fighter to attacks of opportunity by other
enemies. If possible, team up on the spear user to overwhelm the side arm. Another option is to
pick up a punch shield (punch and pie) to temporarily bypass the spear tip. Once the tip is
bypassed, release the shield into the spear users vision, temporarily blinding them; gaining a
brief advantage. Punch and pie is covered in this compendium under advanced topic 3.10
Weaponry: Punch and Pie. Figure 26 below shows a spearmen with buckler and a sidearm able
to hold off multiple attackers.













Figure 26 Spearmen Holding Off Multiple Attackers

1.06 Defense against Yellows

Yellow weapons (especially archers), are the red weapon fighters greatest threat.
Dagorhir/Belegarth has a sort of rock, paper, scissors balance of power in place. Looking at
Figure 27 below, removing yellow ballistic weaponry would allow reds to dominate the field. It is
for this reason that learning how to effectively deal with yellow weapon ballistics can greatly cut
down on a red fighters fatality rate (see topic 1.05 Figure 23 fatality chart).


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Blue
(Rock)
Yellow, Green
(Scissors)
Reds
(Paper)












Figure 27 Rock, Paper, Scissors in Dagorhir

Yellow ballistic weapons are the most deadly and strategically effective on the field due
to the fact that they can be shot nearly anywhere, at various angles, anytime. In addition to this
freedom, yellow weapons have the capability of striking the head as a legal strike zone. A red
fighter cannot physically stop incoming ballistic missiles from being aimed or fired, short of
killing every yellow wielder on the field. However, there are many ways to cope with the
presence of ballistics based on the situation in time upon which the missile is currently at.

1. Proactive (Before missile is fired) Mitigation Methods

2. Reactive (After missile is fired) Awareness Methods


Mitigation Methods
Mitigation methods serve as the most effective defensive measures a red fighter can
take against yellow fighters. Some say 90% of combat is psychological, maybe even more. For
this reason, understanding an archer psyche is of utmost importance in reducing ballistic fire.
Archers and javelin users will often seek out the most opportune targets on the field to
strike at. Understand that an archer can look at a line, and have the option of shooting
anywhere up to even a hundred fighters with their arrows. Because of this target rich
environment, the archer (or javelin user) will almost always choose targets that will be
vulnerable to fire (shield-less red users), or a high priority targets (like a knight or king). Red
users are by nature are high on the radar, because of high vulnerability as well as a being a

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Red without helm or shield cover.
Most optimal target.

high priority target. Addressing these two components will greatly increase your ballistic fire
mitigation, and can even take you off the radar almost completely. Figure 28 below shows an
archer selecting the most premium target.














Figure 28 Archer Selecting Premium Target

To eliminate vulnerability, wear a helm first and foremost. Archers will typically check for
a helm before considering fire. Those with a helm can get over looked regardless of whether
they had a shield or not! Since the head is an illegal strike zone for almost every weapon class,
it is usually unguarded, and thus free pickings for a yellow fighter. If a helmed fighter is sighted
by an archer, the archer can simply select an unhelmed fighter nearby that is more desirable.
The next effective method to reducing vulnerability is to have a buckler. Though a back
shield can block arrows and javelins, the yellow fighter typically sees only the exposed front of
the fighter. A red fighter with a back shield has to turn to accomplish a block, which is reliable for
blocking javelins but not arrows. Bucklers provide forward based protection, and can be moved
to reach for a block, as they are not stationary.
Reducing your priority is very important mitigation tactic. Archers and javelins will fire on
opponents that are kicking butt slaying multiple of their allies. For example, a red that commits
multiple strikes on a line yelling red at the top of their lungs is bound to attract attention in a
matter of seconds. In this situation, the red fighter can drop the attention by staggering the
attacks to two-three at a time and utilizing displacement. Displacement is when the red fighter
can strike a few times on a line and immediately move to another flank on the line. This helps to
drop off the archers or javlers radar, but as a downside it can be exhausting or time

37

consuming. This method is best utilized for situations where you only live once, and that one
life is worth the extra energy- you can rest when youre dead. Figure 29 below shows a basic
example of displacement where the red fighter moves from point 1 to point 2 after catching
some archer attention.











Figure 29 - Displacement

The last mitigation method a red fighter can use to reduce vulnerability is to cut vision. A
red fighter can zone out an archers line of sight by putting an ally or an enemy in front of the
archers shot. Figure 30 below shows an example of how a red can position themselves at a
tighter radius than a yellows wider radius to fire.










Figure 30 Line of Sight

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Awareness
Even when all mitigation methods are being utilized, the yellow user may still choose to
open fire, and take that shot on the red fighter. Under these situations, the red fighter needs to
have awareness to ensure that shot does not hit.
Awareness is the first requirement towards being able to apply any reactive method. You
cannot dodge, buckler block an arrow, or swat a javelin out of the air if you dont know it is
coming! Practice intermittent awareness of surroundings in between swings to gather
information of any immediate ballistic threats. Be sure to look before and after planned swings.
The more practice the smoother this becomes.
Dodging is the first go-to reactive awareness method, and is the most commonly used.
The best method of dodging an archer or javelins is stutter step, in a stop-and-go motion. This is
because many archers and javelin users read movements and typically lead their shots. A
secondary option is to get low to the ground. Targets lower to the ground are simply harder to
hit.
Unfortunately, most red fighters believe that their dodging is good enough, and that they
do not need to rely on any other method (such as mitigation methods). This is because dodging
is the most convenient. However, when a dodge is performed, the red fighter is in a distracted
position, and may be vulnerable to other attacks by other enemies. In addition, the red fighter
cannot attack very well during the dodge. For these reasons, dodging should be used as a last
second ditch effort. Because it literally is a last second ditch effort!
Assaulting an Archer
Archers are extremely difficult to engage for a red user. Most archers are far behind the
line, and in the event the red fighter does get to them the archer will undoubtedly have
defenders, or an offhand of their own. Should the chance arrive where you are able to get to an
archer, disable, but do not kill the archer. It is 3x easier to tap the bow and state bow broken,
then it is to attempt to kill the archer completely. In most cases archers are nestled in a well-
protected area, so there is little time as there are likely other enemies around to address as well.
In Dagorhir and Belegarth, safely tapping the bow counts as a hit to the bow, and the bow
cannot be used until the archer resets. Therefore, tapping the bow effectively eliminates the
ability to fire arrows completely. If the archer is killed, they may reset. It will take the archer
longer to die and reset, than to just reset after being slain on the spot. The longer the time the
archer is out, the less arrows being fired. Lastly, do not attempt to initiate grapples with an
archer, just tap the bow and move on!
Video of the effect of a bow being tapped:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pwt402dypMo&list=UUYvjVswU6CzMRCyoENE0jVQ#t=73

1.07 - Disengage Attacking

Disengage attacking is the act of creating distance, while simultaneously attacking an
opponent. Though there are aspects of offense in this defensive topic, disengage attacking is

39

primarily utilized in a defensive nature- a desperate act to stay alive. It is the first basic
defensive technique a red fighter learns and uses (mostly instinctively) to regain crude range
control. Red weapons have the ability to stay at a longer range while ignoring armor and
breaking shields. For these reasons, disengage attacking is most commonly used when vsing
an enemy blue and shield or florentine fighters. Though it is the most basic and flexible go-to
method, there are significant limitations regarding disengage attacking. Rather, it is a
fundamental technique that needs to be learned early, yet also in combination with other tactics
and tools.
Disengage Attacking vs Range Control
As stated above, disengage attacking is a very crude method of regaining range control.
Before discussing the types of disengages, it is important to understand the differences between
the sustainable Range Control vs unsustainable Disengage Attacking.

Disengage Attacking Not leading the fight
Range Control Leading the fight

Every fighter wants to be in control of the fight at all times. This of course is not possible
100% of the time. Whats more important, is what can be done to get back into control.
Disengage attacking is an excellent tool for this function, as it helps to provide offense and
defense in one move. By chance, the enemy will back off or die and the red fighter can get back
to a range control state.
Range control is when the red fighter controls the fight by not allowing the shorter
ranged fighter to utilize any moves of attack. For any situation, if the red fighter has the first
move, they are leading the fight, even for just that moment. By strategy, if a red fighter is
allowed the first (one shield hit), second (broken shield), and third strike (body hit) in a row; the
fight is under complete control, with a win usually going the red fighters way. For these
reasons, a red fighter always wants to get back to the range control state, as this allows them to
lead the fight in a sustainable way. More information regarding range control can be found in
topic 1.11.
Leap Back
The leap back disengage attack is a single strike where the red fighter leaps back a foot
or so, while performing a strike. The red fighter arches their midsection to dodge a possible
weapon swing at the torso, while swinging the red at a 10-11/1-2 oclock diagonal swing. Using
the momentum of the retreat, along with gravity, a sufficient red swing can be generated from a
leap back up to 60% power (which is enough to score a shield hit). The leap back is excellent
for florentine or shield fighters that will not commit to full gap closer.
Successive leap back shots are beneficial, as the red fighter continues to gain range
control without using much energy. It is recommended to throw a leap back shot every now and
then, and interweave this strike when even in a range control state. Doing this will help to
maintain healthy stability promoting continuous range control. Do not attempt the leap back shot

40

during a shield charge or a gap closer. This is because every time a leap back is performed, a
temporary loss of footing happens to the red fighter, allowing a forward rushing opponent to
rapidly close range. Figure 31 below shows a red user in the middle of a leap back strike.











Figure 31 Leap Back Strike

Backpedaling
Backpedaling is the most common form of a disengage attack, and most of the time is
learned by instinct. This tactic is performed by simply backpedaling while swinging the red at the
opponent. It is recommended for situations where a shield rush or a gap closer happens to the
red fighter, and the red fighter has room to backpedal. This move can be practiced beyond its
basic instinct level, making it more effective. However, the main drawback of this tactic is that
red users rely on it all too heavily. The reality is that this tactic is crude and effective, but has
severe limitations.
If a red user is finding that that they must rely on backpedaling frequently, it is an
indicator that they may be unskilled in multiple other tactics and tools. Backpedaling alone gains
very little in terms of regaining range control. For example, a snb fighter with a fresh shield
charges a red fighter, and the red fighter chooses to backpedal. During the backpedaling
disengage attack, the snb fighter will most likely continue to rush the red fighter; as
backpedaling alone will not deter an advance. Understand that the snb fighter can accelerate to
a higher speed over time than a red fighter can backpedal. Biometrically speaking, the red user
can get about 1-2 strikes before the snb fighter will gain superior range on them. Therefore, it is
safe to say that utilizing a back pedaling disengage attack will only reliably buy 1-2 extra red
swings. In our example, the snb rusher will most likely close distance and kill the red fighter, in
return for broken shield.

41

1.11 - Range
Control
1.12 - Footing
2.15 - Defense
against Sword
and Board
2.02 - Shield
Manipulation
2.03 - Feints
2.04 -
Intimidation
Factor
2.06 - Kicking
2.08 - Fighting
in Pairs
2.12 -
Suppressive
Fire
2.01 - Casting
3.02 - Indirect
Control
3.06 - Flipping
Now imagine in the first example where the snb fighter already has one red shot on the
shield before any rush. In this situation, it is possible that the red can win the match using back
pedaling (1 hit brakes shield, 2
nd
hit kills before range is compromised).
It is possible to score 3 or more red hits during a back pedal disengagement attack. This
is a sign that either too much reliance is placed into back pedaling, or the red fighter is simply
outclassing newer opponents. Again, it is ideal for the red fighter to stay in range control leading
the fight, avoiding this situation in the first place. There are many tactics spread throughout this
entire compilation ranging from basic to advanced that ensure sustainable range control. Figure
32 below shows excellent topics covered that can help a red fighter maintain sustainable range
control.











Figure 32 Range Control Subjects

Turn Run
The turn run tactic is the least common disengagement attack. Turn run is carried out by
striking with a red, turning, running, and turning around again after gaining enough range. Many
times this tactic is paired with backpedaling when the red fighter desires to pull out from a
situation. For all practicality the tactic is basically fleeing from combat. It is very useful for glave
and larger red weapon fighters, as it is very difficult to reestablish range control with a bulkier
red weapon. It is also very useful for red fighters that have a back shield equipped. Unlike
backpedaling, the red fighter can maintain a competitive range when running forward at the cost
of being able to attack. In this situation usually an ally can come to aid the polearm that is
disengaging from the pursuer.
When performing a turn run, hold the weapon behind your back as you run. This way,
the red can help protect you from slashing attacks as you run. It is preferred to let the red trail
behind for longer style polearms. Be sure not to rest the weapon on the back, as this is anviling
which is illegal. If you feel hits vibrating on the red as you run, do not stop running as this means

42

the enemy is still right behind you within range. Run until you no longer feel strikes before
turning and answering. Figure 33 below is a picture of a fighter utilizing a turn run from an
opponent.












Figure 33 Turn Run Maneuver

1.08 - Handle Gripping

This topic covers general advantages a red fighter receives depending on how the red is
being held. Each type of grip gives specific advantages and disadvantages based on the
situation and intent. This topic is listed as a basic topic, because it is critical to start learning
early (and with continued practice) how to best hold a red weapon. A grip can trickle down, and
affect all other tools and tactics a fighter may desire to attempt to use. At times, some grips may
seem uncomfortable at first. However, continued practice with a given grip can give way to an
increased familiarity, ultimately taking advantage of the leverage that each respective grip can
grant.
It is even more important to note the grip of an opponent, as this knowledge can grant
significant advantages which are covered in this topic as well. Fighters have many names and
terms for grips and stances. However, for this compendium, these grips, stances, and
styles have been organized in a custom fashion specific to this compendium. For more
information regarding the other stances and styles, see topics 2.16- Style: Power, 2.17- Stance:
High Guard, 2.19-Stance: Soresu Form, 2.20- Style: Tech, and 3.09- Stance: Ataru Form. Below
are the five grips this compendium has chosen to cover which are used in the Dagorhir and
Belegarth fighting sport.


43

Power Grip
Tech Grip
Choke-Up Grip
Choke-Down Grip
Inverted Grip

Power Grip
Power grip is the most common way red weapon fighters hold their weapon. It is when
the dominant hand is held choked up on the handle with the non-dominant hand choked down
near the pommel. When the hands are separated on the handle, it allows excellent utilization of
handle blocking. In addition, this grip allows shots in excess of 80% power.
Power grip is the standard go to grip, as it is also very well rounded. Equally balanced
with considerable offensive and defensive tools. However, it lacks the range that other grips can
grant. This is a recommended grip when the intent is to break shields, grant intimidation strikes,
or slashing attacks. In fact, many fighters choose to only use this grip, as it is so well balanced.
Figure 34 below shows a fighter in power grip.












Figure 34 Power Grip

Tech Grip
Tech grip, short for technical grip gives unique advantages for a red fighter. This grip
has the dominant hand on the bottom near the pommel and the non-dominant hand on the top
of the handle. The separation still allows for handle blocking like a conventional power grip, but
having the dominant hand on the bottom gives unique advantages. With the dominant hand on

44

the bottom, the non-dominant hand can send the weapon, releasing it with required startup
generation power, while the dominant hand more accurately guides the shot using the wrist
muscles to score a blue shot (commonly known as a cast). This grip excels in precision stabbing
and casting. This is because in addition to the accuracy increase, the shots gain range as the
non-dominant hand is released to create accurate blue shots. However, because of these
guided blue shots, much lower power is generated usually in the area of ~40%. Therefore, it is
recommended that shots from a technical grip are aimed for torso stabs and leg/arm sniping.
Figure 35 below shows a fighter utilizing a tech grip.













Figure 35 Tech Grip

Choke Up Grip
The choke up grip is commonly referred to as halfswording, however it is very different.
This grip is more easily utilized on weapons that have haft padding just above the handle. This
grip has the top dominant hand choked up beyond the stock on the haft padding, with the non-
dominant hand in the middle of the handle. This grip is very defensive, as it allows for handle
blocking in addition to the bottom half tail of the handle being accessible for additional
blocking. This tail is exceptionally useful for blocking lower strikes to the legs such as leg casts.
It is a very good grip for countering other red fighters, as it retains enough power (~50%) for
lethal hits while taking leg sniping out of the equation. The disadvantage of this grip is that it has
the shortest range of all red grips. Figure 36 below shows utilization of a choke up grip.



45














Figure 36 Choke Up Grip

Choke Down Grip
A choke down grip is when the red fighter has both the dominant (top) hand and non-
dominant (bottom) hand together all the way down the handle up against the pommel. This grip
allows a red fighter to leverage the most power out of a red weapon with the most range for a
two handed strike. Red blows from a choke down grip can be devastating, and are easily
capable of achieving 100% power. However, because the hands are together, handle blocking
is not feasible. Even though a shot can be blocked on the handle, the blow will jar the sword,
disabling a fast counter attack which important in handle blocking. In addition to this, it is also
difficult and slower to redirect the red in combat. This is because the two hands together provide
very limited control. This grip is considered a 100% offensive grip, and is used for countering
certain other grips in red vs red, or for achieving an above average blow on a shield. This style
also serves well for fighters with little strength, as the choke down grip can allow the fighter to
get the most power from the weapon. Figure 37 below shows a red fighter in the choke down
grip.






46
















Figure 37 Choke Down Grip

Inverted
An inverted grip is when the red weapon is held upside-down, with the pommel pointing
to the sky and the point towards the ground. This grip mainly serves as an alternative grip for
when a red weapon user has been armed, and must resort to single handing their red. This grip
allows the weight of the weapon to work with gravity, requiring less strength to hold the weapon
upright. In this grip, the main attack is a stab like a large dagger, limiting all other types of
attacks. If armed, this grip cannot single arm cast or slash. In return, this grip does give superior
blocking compared to limitations where if the red was held upright with a single hand. This is
because gravity helps to assist the red back to a neutral straight down position. Figure 38 below
shows a red fighter holding the red with an inverted grip.







47
















Figure 38 Inverted Grip

Grip Switching
It is important to note, that the listed grips above should not be considered a permanent
state. As this topic is covered early in the basic section, consistent practice is required to get the
most out of each grip. Therefore, a fighter must get into the habit of switching grips to better
leverage their attacks.
For example, a right handed fighter wants to throw a standard powerful blow from their
right side (opponents left arm), followed by a left side leg snipe (opponents right leg). To make
the most out of each shot the fighter should utilize a power, choke up, or choke down grip for
the 1
st
blow and then smoothly switch grips to a tech grip for the leg snipe. Going one step
further, if the fighter wanted to stay at a superior range, than the 1
st
shot should be executed
with a choke down grip to achieve maximum range, followed by a tech shot for the leg snipe.
Since the choke down grip grants superior range as well as a tech grip, this allows the red
fighter to fire two shots from two separate quadrants maximizing power; all while maintaining
exceptional range!
Obviously one does not need to switch grips every strike, as it can lead to fumbling,
shatters, as well as more time between strikes. An experienced red fighter should aim to switch
their grip every 2-5 swings on average, based on situation or strategy.

48

Supplemental video regarding grips:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN8STXeCv40&list=UUYvjVswU6CzMRCyoENE0jVQ#t=434
Grip Countering
Grips can be used to counter other red weapon opponents. The following examples can
demonstrate how Fighter B can gain an advantage over Fighter A, just by choosing a certain
way to grip their weapon. Assume both red fighters are utilizing identical red weapons, and are
of the same height/weight etc. Figure 39 below is an advantage chart which outlines each
advantage based on the situation, with Figure 40 below summarizing the examples listed. As a
note, these examples are not full proof or exact, they merely exist to show how each grip
typically gains an advantage over one another.

IF THEN
Fighter A utilizes power grip. Fighter B should utilize a tech grip. Tech
grip out ranges the power grip. Power grip
handle blocking is overkill for light attacks.
Power grip has a difficult time blocking leg
snipes from a tech grip while attempting to
close distance.
Fighter A utilizes tech grip. Fighter B should utilize a choke up grip. A
choke up grip can fully deal with leg snipes
with increased defense. Though outranged,
the choke up grip can close distance safely
without fear of losing limbs or getting
stabbed.
Fighter A utilizes choke up grip. Fighter B should utilize a choke down
grip. A choke down grip will greatly out range
a choke up grip. In addition, the power strikes
from the choke down grip can shatter a choke
up grip, as a choke up grip usually has the
top hand on the courtesy padding. Fighter B
can blow through Fighter As defense with
staggeringly hard blows intimidating Fighter
A, making them nervous to close range.
Fighter A utilizes choke down grip. Fighter B should utilize a power grip. A
power grip has the most solid handle blocking
grip to absorb choke down grips blows, while
closing range. In addition, the power grip has
more control, and can even deliver powerful
strikes to answer back, which a choke down
grip has trouble dealing with.


Figure 39 Advantage Chart


49

Tech Grip
Power
Grip
Choke
Down Grip
Choke Up
Grip














Figure 40 Grip Advantage Summary

1.09 Posture

Posture is a very basic element that can affect a red fighters swings, balance and
movement. For this compendium, an example will be given to help show what a conducive
posture is. Ultimately, posture varies greatly based on fighter to fighter, so it is encouraged to
understand posture, and work on correcting any areas that may need to be improved on a
personal level.
The Basic Setup
The basic set up concerning posture for a right handed red fighter is to have the left foot
forward, leaning slightly forward, and elbows in. Though footing can change, this set up allows
the most comfortable and powerful swing (coming from the right side), as basic swings to give
the red fighter the most balance. The feet should be a good distance apart comfortably spread,
and not pointing forward. This gives more stability in case the fighter is checked. Elbows need to
be close to the torso. Having the elbows hanging too far away from the torso puts them at risk of
getting targeted by opponents. These criteria can change for left handed fighters, and in most
ways are in reverse.
The most important part of posture is balance. If a fighter is not comfortable with a
chosen posture, they can subconsciously be limiting their balance. It is important to find a

50

comfortable posture, avoiding bad habits such as slouching or having legs too close together. A
red fighter should aim to pick up a posture that allows them to be nimble and flighty, yet be able
to conform to a powerful foundation that can deliver power shots. If an opponent exhibits a bad
posture, such as legs being too close together, or the back not arched and engaged, it is usually
a sign of a newer fighter. As such, it is important to maintain a posture that will allow a full range
of motion. Figure 41 below shows the red fighter on the right in an engaged posture. Even
though this right handed fighter has the right foot forward, they are indeed in a comfortable and
engaged stance. Though posture is supplemental to footing, it can play a large part when a
heavy red is swung. For more information regarding footing, see topic 1.12.











Figure 41 Engaged Red Fighter

1.10 Weaponry: Min Red

As a red fighter, it is important to know that there is a red weapon for every situation.
Think of each red weapon like golf club on a golf course. You do not show up with just one type
of golf club to succeed the course, you use a different club depending on the situation. With this
concept comes the putter of reds- the minimum red, or min red for short. A min red in
Dagorhir/Belegarth combat sports is a two handed weapon that is 48 inches long weighing 24
oz. These are the minimum dimensions for a red weapon to still be considered a red, and may
be no lighter or shorter. This weapon is usually a sword, with an equipped stabbing tip. Ideally,
the handle is the longest possible, which is no more than 1/3 of the weapon. Figure 42 shows a
typical minimum red weapon next to a medium red for comparison.




51

Maneuverability
Power
Defense Range
Toolkit
Min Red Combat Capability











Figure 42 Min Red in Comparison to a Med Red

The min red, is the most common of all reds, and is considered the starter red in many
fighting regions as well as for this compendium. It is recommended that all beginning red
fighters start with the min red, because this weapon can give all the properties of a red weapon
with few base limitations. This topic will outline the basics of a min red, to include advantages
and limitations, as well as fighting strategies a fighter can focus on with this weapon type.
Figure 43 below shows an over view of the min red combat capabilities.











Figure 43 Min Red Combat Capabilities

52

Advantages
The min red offers more advantages than any other red, with the fewest draw backs.
This is because its minimum dimensions allows a fighter to deliver red striking hits, but also to
be able to have as much speed to maneuver the weapon as quickly as possible. In addition to
its light weight, and increased maneuverability, it grants a near unlimited toolbox a red fighter
can tap into for varying moves and strikes.
The maneuverability capabilities of a min red are the greatest of all the reds. This allows
a fighter to quickly change attacking or defending directions at a whim. Maneuverability allows a
fluid stop and go movement even with feints added in. With this being said, it is recommended
to utilize fakes excessively, as well as directional change mid shot. For example, a red fighter
may feint swing to the left side torso, throwing right torso instead, with the last minute redirecting
the red down toward the right leg mid swing. This set of actions is how to best take advantage of
a min reds capabilities.
The toolkit of a min red allows an experienced fighter to have full access to various
moves with little physical limitations stemming from the red. Since the weapon is only 24oz, this
allows a fighter to tap into strikes that utilize back, upper arm, forearm, and even the wrist
muscles. Wrist muscles are very weak in comparison to the other muscles groups, but allow for
fine precision as well as a broader range of directional movements. This combined with the rest
of the muscle groups allows the min red fighter to pull off almost any trick. Below is a list of
moves a min red greatly excels at.
Casting blue shots
Arm/shoulder sniping
Short range precision stabs
Tumble shots
Rapid fire swinging
Feint/redirection striking
It is worth noting that the min red does very well in other areas as well. It carries all the
basics a red user requires, even delivering powerful red hits in the hands of the right user. It is
also the most flexible red, able to cope if the user loses an arm. Many red fighters do not take
into consideration before the battle starts how productive they may be when damaged.
Disadvantages
Given the multiple flexibilities and capabilities a min red provides, there are some
notable draw backs and disadvantages. First and foremost is that a min red lacks range. At 48
inches long, the red fighter is dangerously close to a blue fighters striking range. Careful
reaction and calibration is needed to keep enemies out of range, yet still be in range to attack.
For most situations concerning blue fighters, that may be only a few inches!
Another disadvantage is that a min red provides is a bare minimum power output. Some
weaker fighters may find that their red shots onto an opponents shield may not be enough to
score what is considered a sold red hit. However, this power limitation as stated before in the
right hands can be easily overcome.

53

With a minimum weight, no matter what type of fighter, a min red will offer the least
shattering potential than any other red. Shattering shots are covered in detail in topic 1.02. The
ability to shatter (to fumble, disarm, or blow through), greatly relies on the weight of the weapon
as well as the power put into the swing. A strong fighter may be able to shatter with a min red,
but never as well as any other red type. Therefore, limited or no shattering potential does limit
the min reds tool box in that regard.
The last disadvantage worth noting is that there is weaker defense compared to most
other reds. Since the total length is the shortest possible to be a red, the handle length for a red
is also the shortest possible. This means that there is less room to safely handle block, with an
increased risk of a shot hitting the red fighters hands. It is not recommended to handle block
heavy strikes with a min red. If a fighter insists on relying on handle blocking as a defense with a
min red, great care must be taken to land the block on the few inches that are open on the
handle. Figure 44 below shows the limited handle blocking space on a min red after taking into
consideration the protective equipment present on the hands. Should the min red fighter choose
instead to traditionally block or parry with the min red, there are also limitations. The light weight
of a min red is at risk of being knocked about by heavier classed weapons during a parry,
increasing the risk of being shattered.













Figure 44 Limited Handle Room on a Min Red

Strategies
Take into consideration the advantages and disadvantages a min red can offer. As
stated in the beginning of this topic, each golf club has a place on the course much like each red
has on the combat field. Certain situations allow a min red to excel, while others make utilizing

54

the weapon style much more difficult yet possible to use. The following is a brief summarizing
where a min red fields well.

Line fighting: Not Recommended
Skirmishing: Very Suitable
Duels: Excellent

Because of its limited range being a factor, it is recommended to not use a min red in
line fighting situations. This is because a min red is far out classed by superior ranged spears
and polearms. If a min red fighter does find themselves in a line fight, it is best to take
advantage of its toolbox, and utilize blue casting shots; as these shots grant a competitive range
on the line. This keeps the min red fighter from getting too close but able to still be combat
effective. The min red fighter will also have to focus on frequent feints on the line, to bait out and
confuse the multiple fighters on the line before getting in range for a strike. The min red fighter
should play defensive, and be patient on the line, catching spears and parrying strikes until the
time is right; such as a charge on either side. In addition, a min red fighter in a line fight should
wear extra armor, such as a helm, buckler, and chest armor. It is likely the min red fighter will
take heavy ballistic fire, and the chest armor will defend against longer range single green
spear/polearm/med red stabs.
A min red does very well in a skirmish environment. The min red fighter is able to move
freely, providing for more attacks of opportunity within its acceptable shorter range. The min red
fighter should look for opportunities to flank behind enemies and engage in 2v2, or 3v3 fights. It
is an excellent team weapon in small bouts, and can do well when assisting a single ally. For
example, in a 2v2 situation the min red can choose to leg one opponent with a cast and power
strike the other while their ally covers them during the maneuver. Since mobility is very useful
with a min red, it is not necessary to outfit with armor in a skirmish. Usually in skirmishes there
is low archer fire, and a min red can work around longer ranged polearms or spears. Always
take 1v1 opportunities during a skirmish as a min red, as this is where the weapon truly shines.
Min reds are superior, and shine in dueling situations. Vsing a single opponent, a min
red fighter has the greatest competitive speed of all the reds to compete with faster fighters. In
addition, it has a superior toolkit to close in on an opponent that may have superior range.
Typically duels give unlimited amounts of room to move, which is much needed to maintain that
tight 48 inch range control against a shield fighter. With multiple attack options, in combination
with its superior speed, a min red is most recommended and used in competitive duels and
tournaments. Depending on the opponent, the min red user needs to know the enemy, and
select attacks which the enemy is weakest against. If vsing an opponent that has longer range,
defend the first shot and then attack. If vsing a shield fighter or florentine, many more options
are present. See topics 1.05 defense against greens, 1.06 defense against yellows, 2.09
defense against florentine, 2.13 defense against reds, and 2.15 defense against sword and
board for better understanding of each weapon type.


55

1.11 Range Control

Range control for a red fighter is critical to learn, hone, and practice every time they step
out on the field. Range control is the act of a fighter creating a unique distance (not too close not
too far) between them and their opponent, where the red weapon can strike the opponent but
the opponent cannot reach to strike the red fighter. In many ways, range control is closely
calibrated down to only a few inches. Depending on the weapon type, the red fighter themselves
be range controlled. This topic will cover the basics of range control, as well as methods to
maintain that sustainable control over an opponent.
Range Control Basics
Range control is when the red fighter controls the fight by not allowing the shorter
ranged fighter to utilize any moves of attack. For any situation, if the red fighter has the first
move, they are leading the fight, even for just that moment. By strategy, if a red fighter vsing a
snb opponent is allowed the first (one shield hit), second (broken shield), and third strike (body
hit) in a row; the fight is under complete control by the red fighter, with a win usually going the
red fighters way. For these reasons, a red fighter always wants to stay in a range control state,
as this allows them to lead the fight in a sustainable way. Anytime a red fighter does not control
the range of a given fight, they are not in control.
Range Control Leading the fight
Range control can matter by only a few inches. For example, a min red fighter seeks to
strike their opponent with a two handed strike, and their opponent seeks to strike with a one
handed long blue (40 in) strike. The blue fighter out ranges the min red fighter! This is because
a one handed strike allows the opponent to twist the torso, picking up ~8.5 extra inches making
an effective range of 48.5 inches. However, if the min red fighter decides to swing that same
one handed blue shot, the range control goes to the red fighters favor. Figure 45 illustrates this
example.










Figure 45 A Red Single Handed at Max Range Barely Beats a Blue at Max Range

56

40
45
50
55
60
65
48" (Min) Red 52" (Med) Red 56" (Med) Red 60" (Great) Red
Range Advantages for Varying Reds
2H Red Torso Strike 1H Blue/Green Torso Cast 1H Leg Cast
1H Torso Strike w 40 Blue
1H Torso Strike w 36 Blue
+6.5
-0.5

+3.5 +3.5
+10.5
+7.5 +7.5
+14.5
+11.5 +11.5
+18.5
+15.5
+3.5

+10.5

+7.5

+7.5

+14.5

+11.5

+11.5

+18.5

+15.5

+15.5

+22.5

+19.5

***Recommended to stay
>12 in range. ***
Quantifying Range Control
The earlier example can be expanded on, and changes greatly depending on the length
of the red used. Typically a longer red means more weight and less options to commit blue
casting strike. However, it is interesting to note that at a certain length of red, a two handed
strike can very well be superior enough in terms of range control. In summary, some reds are
short, and will have to utilize blue casting shots to best take advantage of range control. Other
longer reds are inherently long enough, and do not need that extra range to maintain range.
Figure 46 is a chart detailing some common range differences depending on the red vsing a
common 36 and 40 blue given equal arm lengths between the two fighters.











Figure 46 Quantifying Range Differences

As the chart above shows, a min red has very little room towards out ranging a single
blue, and is even outranged in the two handed torso strike situation. Twisting the torso typically
grants 8.5 inches, and a leg shot typically adds 4 inches. For this compendium, the following
distances are judged accordingly.
0-4 Inch advantage on opponent: Difficult to maintain range control
<4-8 Inch advantage on opponent: Standard range control.
<8-12 Inch advantage on opponent: Easy to maintain range control
<12+ Inch advantage on opponent: Excessive range control

It is considered not adequate to have greater than 12 inches on an opponent. In general,
ranges farther than 12 inches put the red fighter at an increased disadvantage. This is due to a
significantly increased gap closing potential, and an increased reaction speed the opponent can
achieve greater than 12 inches. In addition to this, a red weapon that can achieve a shot
distance greater than 12 inches, is probably not suitable for throwing that type of shot due to
weight limitations bearing on wrists etc. For example, it is not feasible for a 56 red (which

57

usually can weigh 36-48 oz.) to throw a leg cast against an opponent with a 36 blue sword.
Once the leg cast is thrown, the blue fighter has enough reaction time to see the slow cast
coming, likely blocking the shot, and close distance before the slow and heavy 56 red can
reset. To better summarize the chart above, here are general recommendations based on red
weapon type.

48 min reds should be very careful when throwing 2H red shots. Instead, abuse torso
and leg casts.
52 med reds can throw 2H red shots at a safe range, but good timing is required. Throw
leg casts frequently, but be careful on torso casts.
56 med reds are perfectly fine having a limited toolbox throwing 2H red shots only. Leg
casts can be thrown, but with great caution.
60 great reds should keep two hands on the sword at all times.

Practicing Range Control
The first step towards getting the most out of range control and truly understanding what
it is, is to hone that range and maximize the limitations of whatever red you choose to use.
When first learning to master range control, it is recommended to stick with one red type at first.
The reason for this is that the red fighter can become most comfortable for that weapons range
for every type of attack. Practice hitting the intended target with the first 1-3 inches of a blade.
Figure 47 shows a red fighter practicing range control on a PEL.













Figure 47 Practicing on a PEL can be convenient and advantageous


58

1.07 -
Disengauge
Attacking
1.12 - Footing
2.15 - Defense
against Sword
and Board
2.15 - Shield
Manipulation
2.03 - Feints
2.04 -
Intimidation
Factor
2.06 - Kicking
2.08 - Fighting
in Pairs
2.12 -
Suppressive
Fire
2.02 - Casting
3.02 - Indirect
Control
3.06 - Flipping
**TIP: If you find that the tip of your red is wearing out more frequently than the rest of the red,
you are correctly utilizing range control.**
Staying in Control
There are many tactics spread throughout this entire compilation ranging from basic to
advanced that ensure sustainable range control. Below Figure 32 shows excellent detailed
topics covered that can help a red fighter maintain sustainable range control. These individual
topics need to be utilized in combination to help to sustain complete range control over an
opponent.











Figure 32 Range Control Subjects

1.12 Footing

Historically, it is said that a fighters footing is their most critical component. It is without a
doubt that footing is critical in Dagorhir/Belegarth as much as it was in historical times. However,
it is worth noting that the games of Dagorhir and Belegarth are very much different than true
historical combat. With significantly lighter weapons and minimal force needed to score a kill,
the differences in the game change greatly in comparison to real historical combat; this includes
the hallmarks of footing.
While it is extremely important to maintain superior footing, this compendium will take a
radical look at footing, along the execution of it, with a competitive focus to the Belegarth and
Dagorhir battle games. In addition, this compendium seeks to focus on some unique and
supplemental relationship types of footing which are applicable to these foam fighting sports.
This in no way indicates that traditional footing is not necessary, it is in fact encouraged to seek
additional outside resources regarding traditional footwork principles.

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Balance
Footwork
Better
Fighting
Stability
As stated above, this compendium will take a look at footing from a relationship angle.
This topic will focus on the principles the types of footing states that are required for a fighter to
grant different strikes and tools. Many times a move can be planned and executed, but it is not
without proper footing that the move will achieve maximum effectiveness.








Footwork Basics- Establishing Footing
Establishing solid footwork practices are a key reason for this topic being placed in the
basic topics. If poor footwork practices are maintained, it can hinder and limit a fighter
indefinitely. First, a fighter should strive to maintain as much balance as they can, as this allows
for more options. Second, a fighter should know how to gather as much stability and footing, as
this reinforces and strengthens certain strikes. There are many things a fighter can do to gain
more balance and stability. Below is a brief list of some guidelines:
Knees bent
Small steps if possible
Avoid crossing feet
Which foot forward
Staying on toes

Bending the knees gives way to increased stability. Having slightly bent knees helps to
absorb shock, and gives a better foundation for powerful swings. In addition, it allows the fighter
to swing from the core for more powerful shots.
Taking small steps in combat allows the fighter to prevent attacks of opportunity from an
opponent. Lunging too far can put a foot out in the open for an open leg strike. It also limits the
fighter from be able to quickly react and change direction.
Crossing feet or legs in combat limits the fighters ability to move in certain ways. It also
impacts balance and stability by choosing to cross the legs/feet. If a fighter puts themselves in a
situation where the legs are crossed, the opponent can take advantage of this and in many
times grant a kill. To prevent crossing the legs and feet, practice taking small steps and keeping
legs a good and comfortable distance apart.
There are many differences that come into play depending on which foot goes forward.
For typical right handed red fighters, the left foot goes forward (opposite for lefties) generating a

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comfortable body position. For example, a right handed fighter can have the left foot forward,
and upon generating a right handed power strike can step forward with the right foot; closing
range. If a right handed fighter tries this maneuver with the right foot forward, they will not be
able to take the extra step while the swing goes through; nor with as much comfortability as the
prior setup. In addition, the placement of which foot goes forward matters in terms of being able
to/not being able to pivot in a given direction. The placement of the legs and the weapon create
a triangle which impacts movements and strikes. Figure 48 below outlines so of these
properties.











Figure 48 Foot Pivoting Options (one foot at a time)

Staying on the toes and balls of your feet will grant you increased balance. 100% of a
fighters balance comes from this area. Avoid putting too much reliance on the back heels as
heels do nothing to promote balance. Being on the toes as much as possible takes practice,
discipline, and extra energy, but allows the fighter to have better response times as well as an
improved balanced nature.
Harvesting Footing
So far this topic has covered various practical methods of gaining stability and footing.
These practices are critical for when a fighter needs all the footing they can get for driving
powerful strikes, or bracing a line. Given the fighter has enough balance, there are times that
this footing and stability can be harvested to gain special advantages, such as increased
range or angles.
Harvesting footing is done when a fighter attempts to give up some stability to be able to
have access to unique attacks and openings. During this time, the fighter is vulnerable to
attacks and checks that they would otherwise be able to brace; such as a shield check.
Because their footing has been slightly compromised, the fighter usually has to restore their

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footing after these unique series of strikes have been completed. This is exceptionally useful in
Dagorhir and Belegarth sports, as a firm tap strike is all that is needed to grant a hit.
For example, a red fighter chooses to lunge forward on one leg to cast a one handed
blue shot on an opponent. This provides an arch of the body (protecting to torso), and an overall
smaller strike zone that the red fighter is leaving open during the strike. In addition to the limited
openings left for a strike, the red fighter gains a few extra inches of reach as they are balancing
all the weight on the front foot forward. Provided the fighter has the balance required to pull off
this shot, they still are in a position of vulnerability should the opponent attempt to shield check
them in this state. However, it is likely that in this position the red fighter has the advantage in
strike position and range if only for a second. After the shot has been completed, the red fighter
may choose to adjust back to a stable/neutral state. Figure 49 shows the relationship between
a stable and harvested fighting types.














Figure 49 Stable vs Harvested Fighting Styles

Harvesting footing is best used when additional range or a superior angle is needed. If a
red fighter can just gain a few inches over their opponent, they can negate attacks done to them
from the opponents weapon. Against higher skilled fighters, more and more footwork is
harvested to open up peak angles, ranges, and flavors of strikes as a fighters balance
increases. It is worth noting that harvesting footing is in fact an optional, and an artificial
fighting tool. It is added in this topic to help basic fighters understand that many fighters will
choose to utilize this tool to gain unperceived advantages on their opponents. Many attacks in

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Dagorhir and Belegarth are not linear, and most are very organic movements with many
deceptive curves that in many cases do not look natural.
Be aware of a fighters toolbox in combination of these possibilities. Figure 50 below
shows a picture of a red fighter harvesting his footing; arching his back, using his back leg for
counter balance, and leaning full into a shot to ensure he outranges his legged opponent.
Because he does not have to worry about the opponent charging or checking him, he can safely
stay at a range, and pick away using superior range control.













Figure 50 Harvesting Footing Grants Temporary Range

Sacrificing Footing
Sacrificing footing is when a fighter harvests and completely compromises their footing
to a point where they gain the maximum range and angle for a one time Hail-Mary shot,
usually ending in a fall. There are very few situations where a fighter will choose this route, as if
the shots fails to land it can result in a swift death. However, this section will outline the common
times where a fighter may try for this option. It is more important to be watchful for these
moments, then to actually learn to attempt them. As these moves rely solely on the element of
surprise.
Jumping
Legged Lunge
Tumbling
A fighter may try to jump an opponents weapon in an attempt to gain an advantage.
This usually occurs when a fighter is closing on a polearm. The closing fighter will jump the

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polearm, and land well within range. While only briefly compromised, the jump can allow a safe
landing, putting the fighter back on their feet. Great care must be taken for a polearm fighter if a
suspected jump is incoming. The polearm user should gain range and immediately back swing
after the jump. Try to initially swing for center mass, so that the jump cannot be completed (foot
in air is a leg!). In most situations, if the opponent completes the jump successfully, the polearm
user is at a severe advantage.
When a fighter has been legged, they have severely limited range and angle options.
Their movement is compromised, and many times the legged opponent will take a desperate
diving lunge at an attempt to gain a last ditch effort of range. When vsing a legged fighter that
has a shorter range, be prepared for this option. On a long enough timeline, there is a higher
chance that a fighter will attempt this move. Once performed, block the diving strike, and simply
attack after the block. The legged opponent will not be able to defend themselves well at all, as
they sacrificed what was left of their footing to gain a temporary advantage.
Tumbling is when a fighter resorts to rolls or other acrobatics to achieve an
advantageous strike after the tumble. Sometimes the tumble is to escape, to get to a spot not
easily spotted, or just out of desperation. Regardless, the side effect of the tumbles are a dazzle
effect which briefly surprises or catches the opponent who sees it off guard for a brief moment.
If a tumble is used against you, be sure to actively defend right after the tumble. This is because
after the tumble, the fighter is usually very aggressive. Patience is key, as sacrificing footing in
such a way takes a great amount of energy for temporary benefits. Observe the tumble, defend
the flurry, and attack. If possible, strike the opponent while they are mid tumble for best results.

1.13 - Environment: Skirmish

A skirmish is a battle that usually has anywhere from 5-30 fighters, and is the most
common type of combat scenario. Skirmishes are typically at the local level where local
communities will hold various objectives in different types of games to achieve victory (such as
capture the flag). In the skirmish environment, a red user is never more effective anywhere else.
For this reason, this basic environment should be taken advantage of as much as possible for a
red fighter. This section will outline skirmish characteristics, as well as strategies a red user can
utilize.
Skirmish Characteristics
The two biggest reasons a red fighter fairs well in a skirmish is that typically there are
fewer yellow ballistics, and the nature of an open field with more room to maneuver. Ballistic
yellow weapons usually prevail when numbers get over 30, as this shows a more advanced
group of players with a bigger variety. At 30+participants, it is typical to see an archer for every
7-10 fighters.
Since the numbers present in a skirmish are smaller, the red fighter has plenty of room
for flanking, swinging, and range control. Flanking is done by approaching the side and back of
a given line by going around it. Since line sizes in a skirmish can be fairly small, flanking around
is quick and easy. However, be aware that the enemy will utilize flanking as well as counter

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flanking themselves. When flanking, it is common for a single enemy or two to address the red
fighter. In this situation it is recommended to leg the counter flankers, and continue to flank the
enemy line. Since flanking is done so frequently in Dagorhir and Belegarth skirmishes, it is a
commonly known threat that the line will shift to address. As the lines shift to address the
flankers on both sides, a toilet bowl flush motion commonly takes place. Figure 51 shows
these properties in a basic skirmish example.















Figure 51 Red Fighter Roles in a Basic Skirmish

While this movement continues in a skirmish, keep in mind a red user has almost all
range of motion, either in line or flank. It is important to utilize a variety of attacks at your
disposal which you normally would not have access to, such as in a congested line fight. With
this expanded toolbox, a red needs to utilize these abilities to maintain superior range control. A
skirmish has fewer fighters than a line fight, so 1v1s, 2v2s, 1v2s are more prevalent. In these
situations, a red user does not usually have the luxury of relying and falling back to a line in
response to a gap closing enemy. For this reason, it is of utmost importance to maintain
superior range control through the use of a broad toolbox of abilities.
As said above, skirmishes have fewer ranged threats and plentiful room. For these
reasons a red user can become a hero in skirmishes, and take a little more risk than usual.
Less armor is recommended to maintain mobility and range control. In addition, do not forget
about the games objective. For example, in a capture the flag match a red fighter with low
armor, high mobility, and range superiority has the capability to win the battle by capturing the

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flag with little to no help. It is important to not get caught up in the kills, as a red fighter can win
the game just as easily as gaining kills in most skirmish game scenarios. Below are some
examples of skirmish scenarios where a red can typically excel.
Capture the flag **Given red user is not a polearm**
Kill your killer
Single life
Limited respawn
Four corners
Misc. RPG Adventure type layouts
Free for all

Red Strategies in a Skirmish
Depending on the red used, the strategy can change in a skirmish. In most cases, if the
red user is using a medium red or less, it is recommended to approach the scenario with more
mobility in mind. If using a glave in a skirmish, heavy reliance on forming, holding, and relying
on the line needs to be considered. Figure 52 below outlines some recommended strategies
per red weapon type.

Red Type Armor Position Fighting style
Min Red None Flanking++, Line Mobile, aggressive, objective mindset
Med Red Light to none Flanking+, Line+ Mobile, aggressive
Great Red Medium Flanking, Line++ Defensive, aggressive
Polearm Medium Line++ Defensive, leader

Figure 52 Strategies per Red Type in a Skirmish

With the exception of polearms, red fighters want to seek out situations where 1v1, 1v2,
or 2v2 situations exist. These situations grant all the room and range control a red user needs. If
working with a team mate that has shorter range (such as a snb), aim to disable the enemy
such as limbing the opponent. If an opponent is limbed, the reds teammate can have an easier
time getting into position to kill the wounded enemy, or engage another opponent. If the
enemies charge the red and his ally, the red can support his ally by allowing them to block the
charge while the red commits multiple brutal strikes.

1.14 Breath Control

Swinging a red weapon consumes the most energy per swing than any other weapon in
Dagorhir and Belegarth. The strikes form a red can destroy shields and ignore armor and even
attempting to block a red can be limited. With all the destructive advantages a red has, it is a

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sore limiting factor that a user cannot swing it as much as they would like. If a red user could
swing a red as often and frequent as a blue weapon, the destruction on the field would be
paramount. For this reason every red must consider energy, and the best way to improve
energy efficiency is to have proper breathing control. This topic is very straightforward and
basic, but should serve to guide every fighter on the methods to improve breathing in combat.
This topic is placed in this compendium because it is so commonly overlooked or not practiced.
However, it is one of the most advantageous things a red fighter can do regardless of skill level.
Breathing Habits
Breathing habits can help or hinder your performance. It is important to eliminate the bad
and build on the good! A common bad breathing habit is to hold the breaths during combat. This
is obviously bad, as oxygen rejuvenates the muscles and helps to clear acid from muscles.
Fighting red is a very anaerobic activity, and to compensate for this, a large amount of oxygen is
required. To help with this, practice yelling red after every swing, as this will practice a good
exhale exercise.
After yelling red, do not forget to inhale immediately after. This provides oxygen and
helps prepare for the next red swing. You can tell a red fighter is not breathing in if they rapidly
swing and call red but the swings start to fall off in power very rapidly. Continuous practice is
needed each time a fighter picks up a red. To further reinforce this practice, it is recommended
to use the same principles for every weapon style.
After frequent breathing during strikes has been achieved, the red fighter should work
next to maximize the breaths in between strikes. When possible attempt to take large breaths
between strikes that are not in rapid in succession, or when defending. This will help to
compensate for the rapid anaerobic sessions, where deep breaths are not as feasible.
Low Energy Options
There are times where on a long enough time line no matter how much breathing
exercises are being done, the red user will run out of energy for successive shots. During such
times the red user must take a brief break to rejuvenate. For example, a polearm in a line fight is
pinned in a keep, and is holding the door. The polearm has plenty of defense and is presented
with a target rich environment. The main issue for the polearm user is that they will eventually
and frequently run out of energy to swing no matter how many targets are in range. In such a
situation, it is recommended to use a teammate next to them to pick up the polearm and
continue the swings while the fighter rests. Since both teammates are in a position of reduced
risk, they can afford to exchange the polearm and deliver consistent massive strikes. Since the
polearm in this example has superior range and advantage, the enemies will feel the taxing
consistent blows and will be forced to back off.
As a red user, take advantage of resting during respawn. This will better prepare you for
when you are alive and need to perform. Practice slowing down breathing and heart rate can
help as well during these times. Again, anything you can do to better energize for demanding
red swings the better! Lastly practice anaerobic workouts to better prepare your muscles for
oxygen starvation. There are plenty of resources covering additional breathing control methods,
as well as various anaerobic exercises that have been already publicized.


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2.0 Intermediate
Techniques

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71.75%
18.63%
6.10%
3.52%
9.62%
Uninjured Red Fighter Shots Types Sampled from 35
Dagorhir/Belegarth Youtube Videos 2010-2013
Red Strikes Green 1H/2H Stabs
Blue Strikes Leading to Win Blue Strikes Leading to Loss
2.01 Casting

Casting with a red is defined as throwing a one handed shot, cast like a fishing pole.
The cast grants blue damage while one hand is on the red weapon. This intermediate technique
grants increased range, at the cost of downgrading the red to a blue for that given swing. This
topic will aim to cover general principles and findings of casting, as well as when and how to
perform a casting shot.
Fighting red with two hands dealing red damage is only half of what red weapon fighting
is about. It is important to deal red damage, striking hard and brutal, cutting through armor and
shields alike. However, constantly fighting this way can pigeon hole a red user into utilizing a
smaller toolkit. The enemy will always expect where the strikes are coming from, and will take
advantage of the limited variety of strikes and range from this type of red fighter. Reds are the
only weapon that can have three damage types built into one weapon; Blue, Green, and Red.
This grants a tremendous amount of tactical options for a red users disposal. This is what
makes red weapons shine, because they have the flexibility to have various range, power, and a
variety of tools for each option.
Historically, red users on average rarely use the weapon for blue tactical striking (given
they are uninjured). Even recently, utilizing the blue striking capability is something that the red
community sorely underutilizes. Figure 53 outlines some general shot type characteristics of the
common red user.














Figure 53 Uninjured Red Fighter Shot Types

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As Figure 53 shows, there is a clear under representation of using the blue as a
standard attack. This is largely because dealing red damage is truly unique, and is an invaluable
tool on the field. However, throwing a red shot in many cases can put the red fighter into a risky
closer range situation. Though blue casts rarely create any intimidation and do not grant
armor/shield penetration like a red shot, the casts give an increased range on the red weapon
providing valuable extra inches. In addition, blue casts are commonly unexpected due to range
and rare use. As a result, most of the time they will successfully hit, disabling (or outright killing)
the enemy. Once an enemy is disabled, it is much easier to secure a kill. For these reasons, the
expanded part of Figure 53 clearly shows a high success rate related to blue casts from a red
weapon.
How to Cast
A cast is completed by switching your grip to where the dominant hand is choked as far
down the weapon handle as possible, with the non-dominant hand choked up on the handle.
This reverse position may at first feel uncomfortable, but in combination with a swing it will
instantly feel purpose. During a cast, the non-dominant hand sends the weapon, releasing it
with required startup generation power, while the dominant hand accurately guides and sustains
the shot power using the wrist muscles to score a blue shot. During this time, if possible, turn
the torso sideways to grant even more range. A great amount of wrist strength is required to aim
and torque a cast by the dominant hand mid swing. For this reason, it is recommended to start
practicing a slow casting shot, as to not over strain your wrist. Figure 54 below shows a fighter
mid cast, taking the leg while staying out of range.










Figure 54 Leg Cast (In Tech Grip)

It is important to also practice not telegraphing a cast. Telegraphing is when the
opponent can read the attack incoming ahead of time by reading body language. A smooth
transition should be practiced: from the look of a red strike that will be out of range, to an angled
blue cast that in fact is in range.

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When performing a cast, it is recommended to cast for the opponents legs. This creates
even more of a surprise to the opponent, and thus greatly increases the chances of a hit (note
gravity works for the strike as well). Be aware if armor is present on the desired hit location, as a
blue shot cannot penetrate armor in one hit alone.
When to Cast
When to cast mainly matters on strategy, and weapon type. This compendium does not
recommend to commit a cast on a red weapon that is too heavy or long. This is because of
torque limitations of the wrist. For this reason, it is recommended to utilize casting on min or
medium reds that are less than 38oz. In most cases, heavier reds will be slow to accelerate, and
slow to return to neutral. This can give away the strike and show a significant telegraph, which
the opponent can take advantage of. Below are points taken from the topic 1.11 range control,
regarding casting via weapon type in relation to range.
48 min reds should be very careful when throwing 2H red shots. Instead, abuse torso
and leg casts.
52 med reds can throw 2H red shots at a safe range, but good timing is required. Throw
leg casts frequently, but be careful on torso casts.
56 med reds are perfectly fine having a limited toolbox throwing 2H red shots only. Leg
casts can be thrown, but with great caution.
60 great reds should keep two hands on the sword at all times.
Since most red users utilize 48-56 inch reds, it can summarized that blue casting should
be utilized far more often. However, referring back to the prior Figure 53, it is clear that on
average less than 10% of shots are being cast.
A red user should be aiming to cast primarily for the limbs of the opponent. The leg is the
most recommended, as this eliminates the opponents ability to control range in a fight. Learn to
read if the opponent is prepared, and guarding the legs. Be careful of shields that can have an
easy time defending against leg casts. A failed cast can be very punishing and risky. Though
the success rate is high if the opponent is not expecting a cast, it is very difficult to reset after a
missed cast (due again to wrist limitations). Figure 55 below shows some average probability
success rates of a leg cast from a typical red fighter with a min red against various opponents.










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0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
Dagger
Buckler
Single Blue
Min Red
Javelin/Short Spear
Med. Round
Florintene
Great Red/Hammer
Kite
Med Red
Teardrop
Tower
Probability of Success on Leg Cast By a Min Red vs Opponent Type
Guarding Legs Not Guarding Legs













Figure 55 Leg Cast Success Probability with a Min Red

Casting also works exceptionally well when put into a support capacity with teammates.
A disabling cast keeps the red user at a safe range, while the teammates can finish off an
opponent. It is recommended to shift to the most comfortable side of your ally. For example, a
red user and his snb teammate are both right handed, the red user should take to the left side.
The cast will have swing room on the left side, with the teammate having ample room on the
right for their right handed weapon to swing. Figure 56 shows a 2v1 situation where a cast is
being performed by a red user, without it getting in the way of his teammate.









Figure 56 Both Red and His Ally Can Swing Freely

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Casting is also go to strategy when vsing multiple fighters. This is because the legging of
opponents allows a red user to control multiple fighters at once while staying at a range. See
section 3.11 Outnumbered for more information regarding specifics regarding this type of
situation. Lastly, casting for arms can be an alternative go to strategy instead of the legs. Take
care to properly defend your arms, as the raised straight across angle puts the arm at greater
risk of being struck by opponents in front and adjacent of you.

2.02 Shield Manipulation

Shield manipulation is when a red user uses tools and strategy to get around an
opponents shield, or uses that shield as a tool against them in combat. This intermediate topic
is critical to understand, as a red fighter will commonly be up against the most common fighter
in Dagorhir/Belegarth; the sword and board fighter. When executed correctly, being able to
manipulate a shield to use as an advantage instead of a disadvantage can mean an easy
victory.
Many red fighters choose the simple straightforward path of blowing through the shield
to kill the fighter behind. However, the shield is an inanimate object which is purely purposed for
such attacks. This topic will serve to help red fighters understand the shield along with all its
properties. More information regarding detailed strategies against the sword and board fighters
can be found in topic 2.15 - Defense against Sword and Board.
General Shield Properties
There are many general properties about a shield which both a shield fighter and a red
fighter take for granted. In fact, some of these properties can open up options for the red user,
and usually act as a silent limitation for the shield user.
The first thing to take into consideration is a shields weight. It is not necessary to know
how much a shield weighs, rather, it is important to observe how a shield user interacts with that
given weight. For example, a shield may be of a moderate weight, but it could be too heavy for a
weaker shield fighter, slowing them down. In this case a red fighter can take advantage of this,
and better manipulate that shield. In general, the heavier the shield is for the shield user, the
easier it is to strike, or otherwise manipulate by the red user. Heavier shields do have the
capability to absorb more striking shock, and it is common to have to swing harder on heavier
shields to score a solid shield hit.
Along with a shields weight is the size of shield. Shields always play some part in
partially hindering the mobility and vision of the user. A large tower shield can create more blind
spots than a small buckler. As a red user, take advantage of these vision restrictions. For
example, moving at a certain angle can force the shield user to address the red fighter while
also creating angled blind spots for other attacks of opportunity (such as other enemys/allies, or
certain angled attacks). Figure 57 shows a simple example of a red fighter using an opponents
own tower shield to stop an advance.


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Figure 57 Red Angling to Stop an Aggressive Shield Advance

Along with vision, the type of shield affects a shieldmans mobility as well. As stated
above, weight can play a large factor in general mobility. However, even a light shield that is
large can take away certain striking angles for a shieldmen. Figure 58 below shows a large
shield that has very limited vision and striking angles. The shieldmen makes up for this by
wielding a flail, which has the ability to arch around blocks with simple swings, making up for
angle limitations. In this case, the opponent should have approached the shieldmen from the
other side of the flail.









Figure 58 Large Shields Severely Limit Vision. Flail Wrap Compensates for Blindness

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Punch vs Strap
There a significant differences between a punch shield and a strap shield. A punch
shield is held by a single point and is therefore very light. Punch shields are excellent for lighter
agile fighting, as they allow for fast movement and redirection to minimize sight and shot angle
restrictions. They can be used for shield checking and blinding opponents vision, but due to the
lighter weight and hold, they have limitations regarding heavy shield checks. They do not fare
well with hard blows, and are at risk of shattering due to the single point of contact with the
majority of the holding power coming from the wrist.
Strap shields are held by two or more straps to the arm locking it in, giving significant
stabilization. Strap shields are exceptional at taking hard blows, and are the best type to shield
check with. However, they do have limitations regarding shield blinding opponents. The strap
shield gives the shieldmen less range from the body, as it is strapped to the arm. This further
limits vision and shot angling, compared to the punch shield that can move much farther from
the body.
Each type of shield can be manipulated easily in separate ways, some work better with
others. The two basic manipulations this compendium covered are weapon and manual
manipulations.
Weapon Manipulations
Weapon manipulating is done by the red users weapon. This mainly involves shattering
a shield, pushing the shield by the tip of the red, or by the handle of the red.
Shattering a shield is done through the heavy force of a red strike. For more information
regarding shattering, see topic 1.02 Shatter Shots. This method is very effective against
punch type shields due to wrist limitations. Figure 59 below shows natural blocking power of
various shields before it is considered jarred, significantly moved, manipulated, or otherwise
disrupted (shattered).












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1
1.5
2.5
4.5
5
6.5
8.2
10
BUCKLER-
PUNCH
BUCKLER-
STRAP
TEARDROP-
PUNCH
ROUND-
PUNCH
TOWER-
PUNCH
TEARDROP-
STRAP
ROUND-
STRAP
TOWER-
STRAP
Natural Blocking Power of Common Shields
In Dagorhir/Belegarth













Figure 59 Natural Blocking Power of Common Shields

When striking a punch, it is most advantageous to strike in a way to get the wrist holding
the shield to pivot in whatever way possible. For example, if a red fighter vses a shieldman with
a teardrop style punch, the red user can swing hard for the bottom of the tear drop. This will
cause the shield to spin putting stress on the wrist. If a hard enough blow is achieved, the
shieldmen is forced to let go of the shield in one fell swoop! Figure 60 shows this relationship in
a very general sense.









Figure 60 Shield Contact Manipulation

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Another way to get punch style shields to pivot is by stabbing shield ends. This effect
causes a titer tauter effect, which can open angles for the red fighter or his allys to strike.
Though this method can be used on a strap shield, it is far less effective, and at best may briefly
and gently disrupt the strap shieldmen.
In a line fight, a red fighter can fully utilize a red weapon to simply deny a shield user
without swinging through the use of their red weapon with little to no effort. For example, a red
user can extend his red with one hand, pressing the tip of the red against center mass of his
opponents shield. This forces the shieldman to address the red (due to the red users arm being
out of range for a blue strike), as it prevents and jars their movement. At the same time, the
shieldman cannot simply close range on the red user, as his line allies will defend him. Though
the red user cannot attack, the shieldman must clear the red weapon away by using their own
blue weapon. This leaves the shieldmans elbow open to adjacent angles from the reds allies.
This method is simple and easily reproduced. It serves to frustrate, force, and manipulate a
shieldmen by using some of the simplest energy efficient motions a red can offer.
The last way a red can manipulate a shield is by using the handle of the red weapon,
known as handle pushing or checking. Handle pushing/checking shields is done at close range,
by pressing the handle onto the shield generating significant force. Due to the close range, it is
recommended the red user has a back shield equipped. This is because incoming blue strikes
typically will attempt to sting the red fighter in the back during a handle push/check. Depending
on the strength and weight of both the red user and the shieldmen, this method has the
capability to put the shieldmen to the ground! In addition, it is equally effective against either
punch or strap shield types. Lastly, a red handle has the force to open or pivot any shield
depending on where the handle is placed.
Due to the close range required, it is recommended to utilize this type of manipulation as
a last or near last fighting option. For example, a shieldmen charges a red catching the red by
surprise. If the red user has a back shield they will survive the back sting, and be able to push
the shieldmen away before another strike is swung by the shieldmen. Again, depending on the
sizes of both fighters, this action could result in the shieldmen being laid out on the ground, one
or both being pushed back, or the red being killed. For this reason, it is recommended to pair
with some preparation and practice or as a last ditch effort to restore range.
Manual Manipulation
Manual manipulations are when the red user does not use their red to manipulate a
shield. Most manual manipulations are carried out by grappling. Refer to topic 2.05 Grappling
for more information. All manual shield manipulations are significantly more powerful than
weapon manipulations at the cost of a closer range to the opponent.
It is important to understand that a red user has a free hand. This hand can be released
at any time for offensive, defensive, or any other capabilities the red may need. As such, a red
user may utilize this hand to physically grab the shield and bend the shield in whatever pivot
they see fit. From this manipulation, the red can choose to strike the opponent in an opened
angle, limit the shieldmans vision, or even open up the inside of the shield creating angled
strike prevention from the shieldmen with temporary protection! Figure 61 and Figure 62 show
examples of a red being sandwiched with and without a back shield between shields while
guarding himself from the one open angle left with his red weapon.

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Figure 61 Sandwiched with Back shield Figure 62 Sandwiched inside Guard

The use of the legs and kicking is an excellent alternative method for a red fighter to
manipulate a shield. Refer to topic 2.06 Kicking for more information. A kick can be powerful
enough to manipulate a shield in various pivots depending on the point of contact as discussed
above. A kick gives the red user full use of both hands during the moment, at the cost of footing.
For example, a simple kick at the bottom right corner of a tower shield simultaneously pops out
the upper left corner for a left shoulder strike opening though shield manipulation. In addition to
the powerful manipulating capabilities of a kick, the kick can be done at slightly further range
than other manual or handle manipulations. It is recommended kicks be used by taller fighters
with longer legs or against shieldmen with short range blues. Be sure to avoid losing the leg
during the kick!
As a summary to this topic, Figure 63 below outlines difficulty and manipulation power
ratings of all manipulations discussed. The closer the range, the more difficult and powerful the
manipulation becomes.


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Figure 63 Manipulation Power/Range/Difficulty Ratings

2.03 - Feints

Feints are conducted by changing up a strike or stab in mid motion. This can fake out an
opponent, briefly opening them up where they are not necessarily defending. Feints are used
frequently by all types and classes of fighters. Typically the better the fighter, the more variety of
feints will be used. For this reason, it is important to frequently practice feints during fighting as
well as appropriate follow ups to secure a hit. Feints are made to deceive at the core, and a
fighter will adapt to see differences between feints and real strikes as their experience
increases. This section will cover properties of feints from a general perspective, as well as
some common feints a red user can utilize.
Defense against Feints
The speed of fighting in Dagorhir and Belegarth can be very fast, and overwhelming at
first. Add in the fact how light a weapon is, as well as the stop and go potential it can carry. With
this recipe, it is no wonder feints server a major purpose in Dagorhir/Belegarth games. On
average, one out of every three strikes can be a feint. In most cases, range control rules out
most feints. When a short range fighter closes in, typically they will instantly commit for a strike
immediately. When a red weapon is outranged, feints become increasingly more prevalent. The
major question is, what can a red fighter do to address these deceptive strikes?
Shattering Handle
Manipulation
Stab
Manipulation
Kicking Shield Grabbing
L
o
w






M
e
d




H
i
g
h
General Manipulation Ratings for a Standard Min Red Fighter vs
a Standard SnB Fighter
Power Range Difficulty

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The only way to be sure is by watching the lethal edges of any given weapon combined
with reaction speed. Try not to focus on body movements of the opponent, as these can throw
you off. The only thing that can kill you are the weapon striking surfaces!
If possible, learn to read patterns in fighters. For example, a certain fighter typically feints
high and goes low. Try to remember this, and use it against that fighter. Practice all handle
blocking angles so that you are comfortable with whatever strikes may come. See topic 1.04
Handle Blocking for more details. If a red users handle blocking skills are top notch, they
become instinctive. Instinct will help anticipate any strike, while the mind can begin to think
ahead of the strikes, and evaluate the situation. For this reason, it is recommended that a red
fighter should always start with a solid defense, as it considered at most basic.
Common Feints
From a red users perspective, there is an almost unlimited combination of strikes and
feints that can be tried. This not only adds enjoyment to the game, but also variety from fighter
to fighter. Learn from other fighters. Whatever feint you choose to perform, it is most important
to sell the feint by being fluid.
Selling a feint relies on how fluid or realistic a strike looks, so that the opponent can be
fooled. Red weapons by nature have a harder time stopping mid swing than most other lighter
weapon types. Most red weapon feints are mere redirections of the original strike. For example,
a red fighter is vsing a snb user and wishes to perform a feint. The red fighter can lounge
forward starting the swing high, leaning into the shield side, and acting as if to come down on
the shield side. J ust as the swing is thrown, redirect the swing and weight 45 degrees towards
the sword arm. Changing directions early before too much momentum is gained is key. In this
example, the snb fighter would extend the shield to the block the shot while beginning a swing
with the blue. If feint and timed correctly, the red should land on the opponents forearm holding
the blue before it reaches the red fighter!
Another common feint is selling a higher torso shot, and at mid-swing redirect the red
towards the opponents leg. This feint increases the chance of hitting the leg greatly than if just
cast initially towards the opponents leg with no feint.
Think of feints as a way to reinforce a strike that really needs to hit. However, too much
feinting can also become a problem. If a red fighter is throwing feinting 2 out of 3 shots
consistently, the opponent may read this and take initiative. For this reason, it is important to
mix it up, and keep the opponent guessing (even sometimes throwing 2-3 feints in a row!). The
more creative and mixed up shots and feints blend, the greater the deception factor. For more
information see topic 3.14 Deception Factor for additional explanation regarding deceptive
fighting.
2.04 Intimidation Factor

The majority of fighting in Dagorhir and Belegarth is a mind game. Behind the elements
of competition and play are also other subconscious elements that can dictate a fighters
decisions and fighting. The ability to make an opponent second guess themselves is one of
these powerful elements, and is used frequently as a tool in combat. Even though Dagorhir and

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Intimidation Factor
Confidence,
Leadership
Appearance,
Fitness
Power,
Skill
Belegarth are widely considered safe games from a safety stand point, fear can still be instilled
in an enemy. Instead of fear which was effective in ancient warfare, intimidation is an effective
and realistic alternative in foam fighting sports today.
Similar to fear, there are many elements that can culminate to a level or factor built up in
an enemy this compendium calls an intimidation factor. This topic discusses the importance of
the intimidation factor in Dagorhir and Belegarth, and outlines the various methods and
strategies towards obtaining a premium intimidation factor.
Scream loudly and carry a big stick!
~African Proverb
Intimidation Basics
In a combat sense, intimidation is a perceived emotional tax that radiates from a fighter
effecting other fighters in a negative way. Intimidation is invisible for the fighter that radiates it,
and many times a fighter may not even be aware that they may be radiating intimidation.
Instead, the opponents of the fighter are hindered, even if subconsciously, and usually in a
close proximity to the fighter. It is possible for two fighters to be intimidated by each other, and
can bring down the fighting potential of both. Intimidation is built and radiated with various
elements such as confidence, skill, and power. These elements add up, and can create a
powerful disadvantage against an opponent. When everything is added up, final impact it
creates is called the intimidation factor. The higher the intimidation factor, the more the
advantage.











Red fighting heavily relies on this intimidation factor to perform. Powerful two handed
swings coupled with the general visceral nature of red ties in very well towards generating
excessive amounts of intimidation towards an opponent. In the same token, a red fighter has

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less defensive capabilities than most fighters (such as a shield). Therefore, they must rely on an
amount of intimidation to effectively disrupt, scare, or force hesitation to offset this lack of
defensive properties.
It is important to note that intimidation does not cancel out. For example, two fighters
that are intimidated toward each other choose to fight. Because they are both hesitant to
engage, the fight may look sketchy, lack skill, or lack action to the observer. This is because the
intimidation factor between both fighters is very taxing and can slow the fight down creating a
special circumstance between the two fighters.
Building Intimidation
Intimidation must be consistently practiced and built, as it can wear off as time goes on
or as fighters become more confident. Intimidation is built with a variety of elements. Each
element builds intimidation in different ways. Figure 64 below better defines each type, and
how much intimidation it creates.
Element Description
Power Red fighter increases power to generate vicious strikes to force an
opponent to recognize that power during that moment.
Skill Red fighter relies on combat skill to force opponent to recognize a
professional fighter.
Appearance Red fighter takes on an authentic and professional appearance, using
garb and weapon type to show combat potential.
Fitness Red fighter relies on athletic capabilities such as movement speed to
overwhelm opponent.
Confidence Red fighter exudes confidence to show opponents initiative or courage.
Leadership Red fighter relies on leading teammates, forcing opponent to recognize
a threat on a team level.

Figure 64 Intimidation Types

Power shots coming from two handed reds can be very intimidating. The blows can not
only be painful and uncomfortable, but difficult to defend against. Since it is a combat sport with
constant threats and blows from all other participants, opponents are typically intimidated for
that moment or the day. Red fighters that rely on powerful shots use a large amount of energy,
but greatly intimidate those at risk of taking such a shot. Powerful shots force an opponent
having to be defensive to avoid getting hit, and therefore gives the red user control for a brief
time. Depending on power used and execution, an opponent can be intimidated by a specific
red user for years by a single swing.
A fighters skill can be the most intimidating element of them all. Who wants to vs the
fighter that never loses? Suffering a defeat even by simple tap of a blue weapon can lead to
frustration or stress which are very negative emotions. Because of this, most fighters will
hesitate or avoid more skilled fighters in an attempt to not have to deal with the agony of defeat.
Skills comes naturally, and can take a long time to get to a point where that element of skill is
recognized by an opponent. Once recognized, it can leave a lasting impression that can cause
opponents to make second guesses or hesitations.

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Appearances can give a supplemental benefit to a fighters intimidation factor. Looking
good can make a statement Im serious about this game, which can cause opponents to
second guess. This is the simplest form of intimidation, as even a brand new fighter can come
onto the field looking well garbed, and it will provide some intimidation. The weapon type, as
well as how well it was built can make a big difference too. For example, a fighter that carries a
crudely made weapon may indicate that the fighter made their own weapon, and thus is a newer
fighter with limited knowledge. Bigger does not always mean better in terms of intimidation in
Dagorhir and Belegarth. For example, a fighter with a dagger may be more intimidating than a
fighter with a large and heavy hammer. The dagger is fast and can get close, showing a
possibility for a grapple. While a bulky hammer is slow, and at best will deliver one shot before
being considered useless.
A fighters fitness or athletic prowess can greatly attribute towards generating
intimidation. Athletic fighters can demonstrate they have the capability to do any move, and are
thus fast and unpredictable. In many ways the high energy and intensity can simply overwhelm
an opponent, and force them into a defensive state. This in turn can give control to that fighter
which is in better shape.
Confidence is a general element which feeds all actions a fighter may choose to make.
Increased confidence can allow a fighter to take the initiative over their opponent showing a
characteristic of courage. Confidence also helps to prevent a fighter from being intimidated
themselves. Typically new fighters do not have as much confidence, and as such are more at
risk to being intimidated.
Being a leader shows opponents that a fighter is a high priority target. Commanding and
leading shows presence, and thus can generate some intimidation. Many fighters assume that a
great leader usually goes hand in hand with skill. For this reason, fighters who get to a leader in
combat may be intimidated just by remembering that a team backs them. From this, they may
hesitate when in fact the leader may be a very unskilled fighter in the first place!
All of these attributes can be combined to add up to that intimidation factor. As the factor
rises and falls in intensity, it can make for an easier or harder time for any fighter impacted. As
stated before, red fighters rely on a fair amount of intimidation to perform well. A red fighter must
be mindful to see if enough intimidation is being generated during a fight. Many times a pair of
fighters will fight together, as this can greatly boost each others intimidation factor; making it
easier to fight.
Premium Intimidation Factor
Premium intimidation factor is what this compendium labels as an appropriate level to easily
fight red. When a fighters intimidation factor is at a premium, they can make mistakes and
errors without being immediately struck down, and can have additional breathing room in terms
or range control. Though it is difficult to quantify, the following is a test to see if a red fighter has
a premium intimidation factor:

In general, anytime a SnB fighter does not close distance on a red fighter after one red
swing to the shield, that red fighter has a premium intimidation factor.
Being at a premium can often times feel like the fight is less difficult. A red fighter will
have superior range control and will typically be allowed to attack more. They will have the

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luxury to be able to experiment with other moves, and can deal with multiple opponents. In
summary, being at a premium greatly increases a red fighters chances of winning an outcome.
For this reason, a red fighter should strive to always build intimidation, so that the fight can be
advantageous for them.
2.05 - Grappling

Grappling is a very important technique for all red fighters to learn. This is because all
red fighters have a free hand to rely on when range control has been compromised. Maintaining
range is the most effective fighting method for when a red fighter has superior range. For more
information, see section 1.11 Range Control. For situations when the red fighter is outranged,
range control can be sacrificed for equally effective grappling techniques. An example of this is
a duel between two red weapon fighters. In general, grappling is best reserved as a secondary
defensive measure when other range control techniques have been compromised.
Summarized from the Belegarth and Dagorhir rule set, initiating a grapple is when a
fighter places their hand on another persons body. Once initiated, the opponent may grapple
back regardless of armor limitations. Refer to the Belegarth and Dagorhir rulebooks for more
detailed information on grappling limitations and rules. It is important to note that a grapple is
hands-on. Therefore, this compendium will focus on grapple specific situations, focusing on
hands-on tactics and tools. Other close range non-hands-on tactics and tools can be found on
topics 3.03 Short Range Fighting and 4.02 Halfswording. Figure 65 below shows an
example of a grapple.









Figure 65 Most Grapples Go to the Ground

Grapple Strengths
There are many strengths to a grapple. When performed fluidly and timed well, a grapple
can be an excellent alterative to a weapon maneuver. Grapples are extremely effective in
disabling an enemy, regardless of fighting skill level. However, the grapple can tie up the
aggressor as well. It is for this reason that it is recommended grapples are carried out in a 2v1

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situation for best results. This is where one fighter will tie the opponent, while his ally can
perform the actual kill.
For example, two newer fighters are squaring off against a knight. In this situation, the
knight could easily and quickly can kill the newer fighters without taking damage at all. However,
if one of the newer fighters runs in, blocks the knights attack, and bear hugs the knight, the
other fighter simply has to tap the knight for a kill. In this scenario, the two newer fighters
actually have a far better chance of winning if they work together to disable the more
experienced knight. This breaks down the situation to simple maneuvers that require far less
weapon skill in the newer fighters favor.
Another strength of grappling in terms of the red fighter is the inherent advantage of
having a free hand as stated above. More specifically, that free hand can easily return back to
the handle, while a shield fighter cannot perform such flexible maneuvers. For example, a red
fighter can grapple a snb fighters weapon hand. The other hand can be used to swing the red
(as a blue), while the opponents SnB arm is attached to a harmless shield. Figure 66 below
shows an example of this advantage.













Figure 66 Basic Grapple Controlling Opponents Weapon

The last strength of a grapple, is that it grants intimidation. Even if a grapple is lost, the
opponent will remember far after, and in most cases will think twice about that red fighter who
initiated it. This concept is especially useful against shieldmen who consistently rely on closing
range aggressively against a red user. Think about it, if a red user welcomes each gap close
with an answered grapple (which is easily more aggressive than a gap closer), that shieldmen
will start to think twice before gap closing each successive time. Regardless of if the red fighter

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wins or not, they still win lasting intimidation after the bout. This in turn gives an advantage to
the red fighter on successive fights. In general, after 1-2 grapples, a shieldman will either
choose not to fight that red fighter, or determine a different strategy that is more tactical. This
strategy is called bruising, from the older dag/bele bruiser fighting style of the past. It is called
this as it bruises the morale of the enemy, softening them up in terms of their fighting
confidence. For this reason, it is recommended to commit a few grapples against opponents
that are headstrong against reds regardless of win of loss.
Grapple Weaknesses
The main disadvantage of a grapple is the amount of energy used. In fact, one long
grapple can use as much energy as 5-10 hard red swings on average. For this reason, it is
common that fighters are typically exhausted after a grapple. The trick to this is to shoot for fast
and burst-like grapples. Typically, if a grapple goes to the ground, it has gone for too long.
Instead, shoot for a short and simple bear hug or wrist grab. This saves energy and time in the
heat of combat. As stated above, it matters far less who wins or loses the grapple, because the
person who initiated arguably wins more in terms of intimidation anyways.
Grapples also put the initiator at risk of death. There is little error once a grapple has
been initiated, and this usually results in an immediate death or kill. Many fighters do not
attempt grappling. This is because the one time they tried it, it resulted in a quick death.
Continuous practice will not only allow a greater comfortability with being up close and personal,
but practice will yield better results such as a win. It is difficult to grab the wrist of a swinging 12
oz. blue traveling at high speeds. It is difficult because it is not practiced. Ask yourself, during a
day event or practice, how many times do you grapple? Usually the answer is one, two, or none.
Compare that with how many swings were practiced, and it is no surprise why grapples can
seem sloppy and unrefined.
Lastly, grapples can be confrontational or perceived personal. It is important to maintain
a professional attitude when being grappled or initiating a grapple. Sportsman like conduct must
be applied at all times. The visceral nature of grappling can often times leave an opponent or
yourself stressed or shaken. It is recommended to always briefly council with your opponent
after a grapple. Sometimes a good fight bud, can turn a grudge into respect. In addition to this
factor, be sure not to create a dangerous situation while grappling. Follow the rules of the sport,
and always make best efforts to be competitive, but with safety in the forefront. If an opponent
desires to be let go or panics, show sportsman like conduct and stop the grapple. Should an
accident occur, do not elevate the situation, simply apologize and move on.
Initiating/Defending a Grapple
Initiating grapples in most ways is very similar to defending a grapple. The only
difference is that the initiator has the surprise advantage and choice. When choosing to utilize a
grapple, execution and timing is critical. If a grapple is timed poorly, it can lead to an instant
death. If a grapple is not well carried out or practiced, it will come out ineffective, wasting energy
or again leading to a death.
To initiate a grapple, aim to get to the desired close range. While attaining this range,
have a defensive presence of mind, looking to block any shot that comes in. For more
information on the presence of mind technique, see topic 3.08 Presence of Mind. Once the
attack has been blocked, the window is open to carry out the desired grapple.

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To defend against a grapple, typically you will get a single shot before getting tied up.
Try to aim for the body or arm, as this will result in a death or a loss of an arm hindering an
opponents attempt at grappling. It is important to keep calm and assess the situation. Try to
grab the opponents weapon if possible, and aim to make a kill with a weapon. Now is the time
to quickly utilize a sidearm such as a dagger for a quick kill.
Types of Grapples
Whatever type of grapple chosen, the simpler the better. In the heat of the moment,
complex moves are often hard to execute and can lead to a death. In addition, complex
grapples need to be practiced frequently for better effect. Below is a list of practical grapples
that this compilation supports.
Bear Hug
Wrist grab
Leg Grab
Whole arm(s)
The Bear hug is the simplest and most straight forward grapple. To execute; close
range, block any incoming attack, and wrap both hands around the opponent. Make sure to
catch both arms if possible. This grapple is best executed for locking down opponents and
rendering them completely defenseless. However, during the time you are unable to defend
yourself as well. For this reason, the bear hug is recommended for 2v1 situations where an ally
can back you up. It can also be used to knock people off the edge of boundaries as it impacts
an opponents center of gravity. Because of its simplicity, it needs little practice, but is not a very
flexible grapple. Once a bear hug has been executed, there are few options of letting go until
either the initiator or the opponent are killed. Remember to not drop your weapon during the
grapple if possible, as it can be needed after the bear hug is complete.
The wrist grab is executed by grabbing the wrist of the opponents weapon hand. This
method has a simple concept but can be hard to execute. The reason being that a swinging
wrist can be hard to catch and many times a fighter my end up getting killed attempting to grab
for the wrist. However, the wrist grab is the most flexible grapple. From the wrist, the initiator
can transition to a variety of manipulations or grapples. This grapple is best used when the red
fighter does not want to get too tied up with the opponent, and that the opponent has only one
free hand. If the wrist is grabbed, the opponents weapon is under complete control, and the red
fighter can usually finish off the opponent without getting tied up by staying at a reasonable
range.
The chief purpose of the leg grab is to take the opponent off their feet. By grabbing one
or two legs the opponent can fall, and become very vulnerable. It is recommended to have a
back shield while performing leg grapples, as the arms of the opponent can still aim to strike.
Leg grabs are recommended if the red fighter is legged. Leg grabs usually are a result of a
transition from one of the other three upper body grapples, such as grappling an opponents arm
and then grabbing a leg while holding that arm as well. This combination disables the weapon
arm and the footing of the opponent. Figure 67 below shows an example of this right at the
point the opponent loses footing.


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Figure 67 Arm to Leg Grapple Taking Opponent off Footing

Whole arm grapples are easier to execute than a wrist grapple. However, it forces the
red user to get closer, and thus more vulnerable to being tied up. If a fighter is having trouble
grabbing the wrist of an opponent, they can instead choose to effectively bear hug the arm
entirely, which results in disabling that arm. It is recommended to use this type against agile
opponents that have use of one arm for a weapon.
Grapple Transfers
It is important to note that when one type of grapple is initiated, a fighter can transition to
a different type of grapple based on the situation. For example, a red fighter can grab the wrist
of a shield fighter, and from there use the other arm to bear hug the rest of the arm, grab the
other wrist, leg grab, or bear hug the entire opponent. Figure 68 below shows some common
transitions a red user can transition to depending on the initiating grapple.










Figure 68 Common Grapple Transitions

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2.06 - Kicking

Kicking is a strong foundation technique a red user can utilize to create intimidation,
openings, or range in a fight against opponents with a shield. For this compendium, anytime a
red strikes a shield with the foot or leg, it is considered a kick. This is to include techniques
such as pushing or manipulating a shield with the foot. As stated many times before in this
compendium, range control plays a very important part in ensuring a red fighters success. For
more information regarding range control, see topic 1.11- Range Control.
A kick is a medium range technique that can be used both offensively and defensively.
Depending on the situation at hand, as well as the size of any fighter, a kick can be the answer.
Due to its shorter range than a red weapon, kicks can often times bring a red fighter in range for
unwanted attacks from an opponent. It is important to practice a defensive mindset while
performing a kick, so that an opening isnt created during execution. Not all kicks translate to
every red weapon. For example, a situational standard shield kick may be more effective when
wielding a min red instead a polearm. The more experienced a red fighter is with kicking, the
more fluid the follow-up. Figure 69 below shows a standard shield kick while performing a
handle block.












Figure 69 Standard Shield Kick While Blocking

In terms of energy use, kicks also consume a medium amount of energy. Therefore it is
feasible to kick more than once if desired, without becoming too taxing to the red fighter.
However, the major downside to a kick is that the red fighter temporarily sacrifices some footing
during the kick. Many times fighters will not take this into consideration, often putting themselves
at a disadvantage. Like grappling techniques, simple is better. Kicking and grappling are

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Offensive
Opening
Intimidation Building
Fake Kicking
Disabling
Defensive
Range Control
Thigh Kicking
visceral and crude in nature, with the end result the most important regardless of how sloppy it
was performed. If performed and timed correctly, a solid kick can immediately turn the tide in the
fight to a sizable advantage. This topic will cover a range of offensive and defensive kicks.
Figure 70 below is a summarized chart showing various types of kicks this compendium
recommends.








Figure 70 Offensive/Defensive Kick Types

Offensive Kicking
Kicking to create an opening on an opponents defense is a low energy technique that
very effective. The red user uses their foot to push on a desired edge of a shield to cause a titer-
tauter effect, which grants an opening on the opposite side of the shield. For example, a red
fighter may choose to push the lower left corner of a tower shield, which will in turn will open the
upper right corner for a torso/shoulder strike or stab. This type of kick is recommended against
opponents that have larger shields. The larger the shield, the slower the opponent, and the
bigger the fulcrum. In many cases, a small tap is only needed, to cause this effect. It is
important to immediately follow up with a strike. The window of opportunity for a strike is very
small, and swinging just after tilt can be tricky. Figure 71 below shows the general principle of
the titer tauter effect, opening up an opponent for an immediate strike afterwards.









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Figure 71 Titer Tauter Kick Effect

Many red fighters overlook the inherent benefit of intimidation building with kicks. J ust by
throwing a kick, you generate a sizable amount of intimidation, even if the kick amounts to
nothing in terms of scoring a kill or strike. The very act of striking the opponents shield with a
forceful kick transfers that power into the arm of the opponent, jarring them. For example, a red
fighter is vsing a snb fighter that is very confident against the red fighter. If the red fighter scores
a few jarring kicks on the shield, this will make the snb fighter think twice about assaulting the
red fighter up close and personal. It may also force the snb fighter to become frustrated, and
engage at a bad moment. Using kicks to generate intimidation is an excellent way to indirectly
control an opponent. For more information regarding indirect control see topic 3.02 Indirect
Control. To generate a sizable amount of intimidation, usually more than one kick is required.
This presents a trend to the shieldmen that the red user in fact can, and will kick frequently. This
will make the shieldmen more cautious, in turn giving more control over to the red fighter.
Fake kicking is a tool frequently over looked by the fighting community. As such, not
many fighters will anticipate a fake kick. Fake kicking is extremely safe, and extremely effective
with low energy costs. To fake kick, simply act like you will throw a kick and pull the leg, much
like a feint is carried out. Unlike a feint, the opponent cannot simply call the bluff of a fake kick
and ignore it; they must brace for that supposed kick. This brief phase of bracing for a kick can
disrupt the shieldmen, forcing them to give control and initiative to the red fighter. Fake kicks
can frustrate the shield fighter, as well as granting intimidation. What makes fake kicking most
effective is when fake kicks are loosely tied to a real kick. For maximum effect, tie in a
combination of fake kicks, kick, strikes, and feints to absolutely deceive and lock down your
opponent. For more information about deception, see topic 3.04 Deception Factor.
The video below shows a fake kick, kick, strike combo in action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MklzNDa8oWI&list=UUYvjVswU6CzMRCyoENE0jVQ#t=378


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Disabling kicks are when a red fighter intends to kick a shield hard enough to disarm the
shield or move the opponent. These kicks build the most intimidation of all kicks, and can have
a large amount of power behind them. Disabling kicks essentially aim to shatter an opponents
defense. For more information regarding shattering, see topic 1.02 Shattering Shots. Take
safety into mind when performing these kicks, as an accident can cause injury. Disabling kicks
are most effective against punch shields and shieldmen on their knees.
When attempting to disarm or seriously move a shield via a disabling kick, it is of utmost
importance to know the core of the shield. Shields with cores made of wood can injure the
kicker, and are also resistant to kicks in the first place. For example, a red fighter attempts to
kick the side of a tower shield like kicking a soccer ball. The foot connects with the shield at
extreme power, and the foam gives to the wood core, causing injury to the metatarsal bones in
the red fighters foot. A shield kicked the same way that but is instead a lighter coreless punch
shield, will not hurt the red fighters foot. Instead, it will effectively punt the shield, possibly
taking away the shield from the situation, or flying off the field (red fighters call kite shields
kites for a reason)!
Many times a red fighter will be in a situation where a shieldmen has been legged. This
is an opportune situation to close range, block the blue strike, and push with the foot against the
shield. Only a medium amount of force needed, and the shieldmen will be disabled falling
backwards compromising their guard. This is a very effective method for red fighters who are up
against shieldmen who can block red shots with the sword, protecting the shield.
Defensive Kicking
The most common defensive kick is a kick that is meant to push the shieldmen back and
restore range. When a shieldmen attempts to close range, aim to hit the shield center mass,
pushing off the shield in a forward stepping motion. When executed correctly, the shieldmen will
be pushed back, and range will be maintained. It is critical that during the kick, to be looking for
the blue swing at the same time. Kicking at medium range, combined with the momentum of a
charging shieldmen, a swing will happen right around same time as the kick. After the kick has
been completed, follow through with a red strike on the shieldmans shield. The forward
momentum from the step in kick can be used to help drive an efficient red strike. Combined, this
creates a 1, 2, 3 combo that generates a significant amount of intimidation (Blocked blue strike,
kicked shield, and scored a red shot in one clean movement). Rely on staying at a range, but
practice is required to have a shield kick prepared if the time comes. Quick reaction and
execution is required if a defensive shield kick is to be successful.
The video below shows the defensive kick combo in action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MklzNDa8oWI&list=UUYvjVswU6CzMRCyoENE0jVQ#t=560
A thigh kick is a close range push-like kick that has the potential to build more energy
and pushing power than any other kick. This kick is primarily utilized to grant extensive range
control due to this push. A thigh kick is performed by placing the shin directly up against the
face of a shield and step forward and down. In order to place the shin so high, the thigh must be
hiked up above the waist line. It is for this reason that when the leg is pushed outward, it acts as
a compacted spring utilizing muscles from the core generating tremendous pushing power.
Much like a standard range control kick, be ready to anticipate any incoming blue strikes during
the thigh kick. Follow up with a red strike afterwards to complete the maneuver. This kick can

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take the most practice, and is one of the rarest and unique moves in the red users arsenal.
However, due to its basic mechanics and solid purpose, it is listed as under kicking as an
intermediate tactic. The biggest reason it is rarely used today is the fact that it is executed at
such a close range where other tools are commonly used (such as grapples). Figure 72 below
shows a thigh kick at max leverage while handle blocking the opponents blue strike.












Figure 72 Thigh Kick While Blocking

2.07 - Spins

Spins are considered very flare or showy, and are perceived in the Dagorhir and
Belegarth communities as having limited function and unsafe. With this being said, fighters
today from every experience level will still utilize spins regularly in their combat tactic options. In
truth, spinning attacks have a place, and are very advantageous. The problem is that very few
red fighters can properly pull off a spin correctly. When executed correctly, a spin provides an
angle of attack that the opponent has not set up a defense for resulting in a unique kill. Lastly,
spins are very rewarding and contribute to a great amount of enjoyment in the sports. This topic
will cover primarily how to best achieve a proper spin, with maximum efficiently. However,
consistent practice and understanding with form and footing are required. For more information
regarding footing, see topic 1.12 Footing.
The first problem fighters run into when performing a spin is that they do not keep the
motion efficient and smooth. Landing a spin relies on the element of surprise and timing. To
gain the most efficiency, the red fighter needs to keep it simple. It is a paradox to look at the
complicated nature of a spin and maintain for it to be simple. This fact remains true; simple and

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direct movements with little time wasted are key. In short, you are trying to get the time it takes
to perform a spin the same as a normal strike.
Spins are best utilized for situations where a red fighter is vsing a defensive fighter that
has a very rigid, conservative, or full-proof set up. Many times fighters that rely on an
impenetrable defense dont expect the ace in the hole spin trick. Typically, as fighters increase
in skill, they shy away from inefficient moves such as spins. They can tend to forget that the
option is there for a spin, as well as the requirement to block for it. If you are fighting an
opponent and have exhausted most of your tactics without a hit, try a spin. Spins are listed in
the intermediate section due the fact that spins sometimes will be the only tool that can score a
hit. It is equally important to learn about spins early so you can be ready to see a spin coming
from an opponent.
The Setup
When performing a spin, always aim to cut the execution time down as much as
possible. Spins by nature take a while to connect, and anything that can be done to raise
efficiently is of utmost importance. The first thing that can be done is by having a proper setup.
Spins are the most effective when they are used in combination of a strike or a block. Take a
look at this scenario:
In a red vs red duel, red fighter John wants to perform a spin against red
fighter Pete. John needs to think one step ahead of Pete, setting up the spin
while blocking Petes shot. To do this, John will anticipate handle blocking
Petes attack on his right side. In the same motion, John will position his feet
for the 180 degree spin. This will effectively block Petes right side strike, but
also setting up for a spin in one motion towards Petes right side. At the
moment Pete swings on the Johns desired side, John will perform the block,
and spin strike onto Petes right side which is left utterly open and vulnerable!
This set up ensures a landing the spin. As Petes blade is still over on J ohns right side,
J ohns spinning red is quickly spun to the Petes right side. If executed correctly, there is little
time for Pete to move his red over to block the spin. This swing is a 180 degree swing. This
means J ohn does not arc in a full circle, but rather returns back the way he sung in reverse
(which is a standard power shot). He does not uncross his feet by moving his feet, he uncrosses
them by unwinding his torso. An example transition of this before and after four step spin set up
is shown below on Figure 73.






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Figure 73 1. Shot is Blocked 2. Red Pivots Hips to prep for spin (clockwise) 3. Spin is
executed 4. Red returns to original state back the same way they came
(counterclockwise) w/o moving planted feet.


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Footing
Being on your toes is essential towards achieving a smooth spin motion. Using the
example above, J ohn must be on his toes. If he is not, he will not be able to have enough
balance to come around 180 degrees without repositioning his feet. It is important to note that
repositioning the feet takes time, is clunky, and allows the opponent to see the spin coming
(telegraphing). When the balls of the feet are raised, it allows the feet to pivot on a single point,
freeing the arcs of the feet. Figure 74 below shows an example of this concept.
To better understand and comprehend the speed of a properly executed swing, see the video
here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-vyxPbVDNs&list=UUYvjVswU6CzMRCyoENE0jVQ#t=179










Figure 74 Always Stay on Balls of Feet During a Spin

2.08 Fighting in Pairs

Fighting in pairs, especially from a red weapon users perspective is extremely
advantageous. Red fighting lacks superior defense, such as a larger shield. Even with a buckler,
the shield is not nearly as superior as a shieldmans ability to block with a dedicated hand. Red
fighters can also be outranged, against weapons like the spear. The fact is, is that red weapons
are primarily a team weapon due to the multiple limitations and unique advantages they give.
For this reason, reds can pair with just about any other weapon style partner. It is recommended
to always try to pair up whenever possible in line fights or larger skirmishes, as it is most optimal
to do so. This topic will cover some various combos a red can pair with, as well as how to best
utilize them from a red users standpoint.
Red with Blues
This is the most standard pairing, with the red fighter being paired with a shieldmen blue
user. This set up allows the shieldmen partner tank for the red fighter. It covers the red fighter

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in obvious areas such as absorbing arrow fire, maintaining range control by preventing gap
closing, and inhibiting longer range green users.
This set up is very strong in line fighting and also the most common, as shieldmen can
be found almost anywhere. It allows the red to get aggressive, with little worry concerning
defense. The drawbacks to this pair is that it tends to be less mobile, as the shieldmen needs to
stay close to the red fighter in order to properly protect them. In addition to this, the shieldmans
shield can tend to hurt more than help a situation at times. The shield can block a red fighters
vision as well as limit certain attacks depending how much coverage is being placed on the red
fighter at the time.
Here is a video from the reds point of view, highlighting these vision limitations:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06eB8an9IjE&list=UUYvjVswU6CzMRCyoENE0jVQ#t=150
Since shieldmen allies can be easily found, this pair is generally considered casual. It is
typical of the red fighter to move from shieldmen to shieldmen like a hermit crab, to find the
teammate that gives just the right amount of coverage. Shieldmen generally understand this
paired mechanic, and there is not much of a need to have a personal friend; any stranger may
do.
While under the cover of a shieldmen, aim for low leg tech shots, as a red can slide
under a typical torso sized shield. This way you can be better protected while still attacking.
Should spears attempt to stab you or your pair, hide behind the shield and attempt to grab the
spear. Should you succeed, you can both help with the pull on the spear while the shield
continues to cover the both of you. When making a flurry of attacks, do not be afraid to push the
shield out of the way and begin your strikes. After the burst is complete, be sure to actively hide
back behind the shield again. Lastly, pay attention to which hand is dominant on the paired
shieldmen. They may be a lefty, which can change the striking and cover strategy. Figure 75
below shows a shieldmen and red standard set up.











Figure 75 Standard SnB/Red Setup

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Red with Greens
A red being paired with a green weapon is considered the least advantageous pairing.
Sometimes all that is available on the line at the time maybe a spearmen. Other times it can
also be a legitimate pair up between two friends. Regardless, with the right teamwork this pair
has the capability to be just as effective as any other pair.
The strength with this pair up is that a spearmen and the red user will have significant
more room to swing and stab compared to other pair ups. The spearmen in this can tend to
monopolize the situation, leading the strategy. For example, if the spearmen is aggressive, the
opponents can be pushed back, if passive the opponents may charge the pair. The red user
acts in a support capacity, attacking opponents who aim to close the gap on the spearmen. An
obvious weakness is that this pair up is extremely susceptible to archer fire, especially if neither
is carrying shields, helms etc. For more information on defending against yellows see topic 1.06
Defense against Yellows.
The red can also support the spearman by grabbing other incoming spears and
intimidating shieldmen. The spear should yield a majority of the kills which saves the red
considerable amounts of energy. When the spear is showing that they are fatigued, step forward
and take over the aggression. This combination can always be swinging in effect, so it is very
important to do as much damage between the two before taking heavy fire from archers. In
addition, this pair is the least mobile of all the pair set ups. As such, this pair is most effective in
line fighting situations.
Red with Yellow
Red with yellow, knows as The Chariot, is an extremely effective fighting pair that is
flexible and powerful in most fighting situations. The term chariot comes from the fact that the
red is an acting horse being highly mobile, keeping attention while the archer/javelin shoots.
This strategy is most effective, and focused on archers instead of javelins due to ammo
limitations. Either way, essentially it takes a red fighters greatest weakness and uses it for
benefit.
The chariot is very strong in skirmishes (preferably with little incoming archer fire), and
line fighting. It is not recommended in 2vX situations, due to gap closing prevention limitations.
A key weakness of this pair is that it maintains limited defensive capabilities (i.e. shields). It
relies solely on being aggressive and intimidation to control opponents. The red user relies on
the archer partner to control incoming archer, javelin, and spear fire. And the archer to rely on
the red user to be an intimidating stopping force to charging blues opponents.
With this pair, the yellow fighter stays relatively close behind the red, usually at half draw
distance. This is done so active communication between the archer and the red can be
executed. It is also done to act as support should the red be engaged on. An archer can easily
pull a blue to help the red during a charge. The archer will draw an arrow (but not fire) by raising
the bow, causing the opponents to hesitate drawing immediate intimidation from the close range
arrow. At the same time, the red should recognize this intimidation just by looking at the
opponents, and strike during the intimidation. J ust before the red engages, the archer should
look to fire at greens, yellows, and reds with the most immediate risk to the pair. Figure 76
below shows this set up and an example of its capability.

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Figure 76 Chariot Teamwork

Having the archer directly behind and out of the way, gives the red user additional
compound advantages. The red user may use allies to the immediate right and left of him, such
as shieldmen, to protect his flank in a separate set of paired fighting as shown above. This
allows the red fighter to work with the shieldmans protective qualities while the red fighter can
communicate and sync with the archer directly behind. This set up is not considered a trio, as
the red is working with the archer while taking advantage of using cover on the line. This
combination is very powerful, and can be used in almost any situation.
Chariot takes advantage of the close range arrow intimidation to land red shots, and the
ability to eliminate targets that the red fighter is susceptible against. The pair works closely
together to create pockets of extreme intimidation to keep all opponents at bay. Chariot takes
the most practice, communication, field awareness, and timing of any other pairing. Therefore, it
is usually carried out with known peers and friends instead of strangers. Figure 77 below shows
the chariot from the opponent perspective to illustrate the active intimidation present.










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Figure 77 Chariot Team Up From Opponent Perspective

Red with Red
Two red fighters may always choose to fight next to each other for inherent double red
advantages. If two reds hit a shield in one swing each, that shield is destroyed (provided both
shots are strong enough). Double reds also grants a sizable amount of intimidation between the
two, both with a good amount of room to swing. With two reds, even spears will have trouble
dealing with the pair, due to the intensity and easy ability to grab spears. However, both reds
are at a high risk to archer fire, and must make use of every second if archers are present. The
reds must make use of every element to reduce this risk, as more swings from two reds on the
line will generate more and more attention of opponents.
Although any red pair up can be done, the most optimal combination is a minimum red
paired with a polearm. This combo, called the long and short of it, plays the range differences
and speeds against the opponents. Opponents have to worry about the long stabs and powerful
slow strikes of the polearm as a constant looming threat, while the min reds one handed leg
shots can be also be thrown. If the opponent tries to close the gap on the polearm, the min reds
speed (in combination with the polearms supporting attacks) will again be disruptive. This pair
up is especially effective against multiple shield fighters on a line. Figure 78 below shows the
long and short of it pair up.




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Figure 78 Long and Short Set Up

2.09 Defense against Florentine

Florentine fighters draw distinct advantages from being able to hit with two separate
weapons simultaneously. Florentine fighters in many ways are very much alike red weapon
fighters. They are very susceptible to ballistic fire, as they do not have a dedicated shield.
Florentine fighters tend to be very aggressive like a red. The question of who is more
aggressive, the red or the florentine, can often be a deciding factor in a duel. This topic will
cover strategies and tools for a red fighter to most effectively deal with the typical florentine
fighter double blue.
Florentine Advantages
As said above, florentines main advantage is that the red has to address not one
weapon but two. It can force the red weapon fighter to have to multitask, taking into
consideration both weapons at any moment in time. This can be difficult, because a red in most
situations can only block one weapon at a time (in most situations). Florentine fighters tend to
be very agile and deceptive, often using excessive feints with both weapons to bolster
intimidation. They have the power to take easily accessible limbs in one swing (one with each
weapon) to score a kill. For example, a florentine can duck a red swing and scissor cut both legs
to achieve an instant kill. Florentine fighters do not have a breakable shield, and instead rely on
two blues or greens to be able to block an infinite amount of red shots.
Think of florentine fighters as an unstable bomb, especially when vsing them as a red.
One hit, and they can go from steady to an explosion. Two options to taking care of this
unstable bomb is to disarm it, or blow it up. Do not ignore a florentine, as they are natural fast

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skirmishers, and can get around behind a line dealing devastating damage before exploding. It
is a tough job dealing with this style of fighter, because the fight can go either way. Many times
a florentine encounter can leave a red fighter armed even if the red wins. Therefore, it is
important to aim to use smart fighting to control florentine fighters, keeping both arms along with
the win!
Controlling Florentine
For a typical florentine to use these advantages, they must get into close range. For this
reason the greatest tool a red fighter can use against a florentine is range control. For more
information on range control see topic 1.11 Range Control. Reds have a superior range,
effectively taking away the ability for a florentine fighter to be able to strike. It is near impossible
to protect all quadrants from all the florentines strikes when in range. Therefore, it is
recommended to always stay at a range whenever possible, and use any means to maintain
this superior range.
To best control a florentines aggression and gap closing capabilities, the first target
priority is to take a leg. If a florentine is on their knees, a red fighter has range control without
the worry of being closed on. At this point the fight is basically over, assuming the red maintains
superior range. However, taking that leg is easier said than done. Many florentine fighters will
guard their mobility and legs. Doing this will slow them temporarily while they guard the legs.
Forcing a florentine fighter to guard the legs is not a bad thing (even if you cant take that leg),
as it grants intimidation and minor control. It is important to land the leg swing if thrown, as a
missed leg shot will result in a florentine fighter following a gap close immediately after. To best
ensure leg shots, utilize feints to the upper quadrants of the body followed by a leg cast. For
more information on feints see topic 2.03 Feints. Figure 79 below illustrates the limitations of
a legged florentine.












Figure 79 Florentine is at a Severe Disadvantage when Mobility is Taken Away

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Stabs are the second optimal if you cannot risk swinging for the legs. This is because a
florentine has two blues already at the neutral position ready to block a stab. Like a leg cast, it is
important to land every stab thrown. Be sure to use maximum range to stab, turning the torso. In
certain situations such as flails and longer blues, a florentine can hit the arms of a red with one
of their blues. For more information on stabbing see topic 1.03 Stabbing. Again, it is likely to
anticipate the florentine to gap close immediately after should a stab fail.
Thus far, the theme of vsing florentine fighters has been from a tech style, utilizing
skilled accurate strikes to break down the situation. Coming from the power style, a red can also
choose to use some brute force. A red can perform a simple powerful broad swing to the side, in
an attempt to blow through the block and also score some intimidation. Know that the florentine
will attempt to block, but the red fighter should be relying on blow through shatters. For more
information on shatters and blow throughs, see topic 1.02 Shatter Shots. If the florentine has
demonstrated strength to defend against such blows, powerful strikes to the shoulder at a 10-2
oclock radius can work as an alternative. Like all strikes stated above, aim to hit in one strike,
but be ready to defend immediately after. This is because a power strike to a shoulder or left
side may only take an arm, and the florentine will likely follow up with the second blue.

2.10 - Bucklers

In Dagorhir or Belegarth combat games, anyone can have at a maximum of one shield
at all times. A red fighter can take advantage of this by equipping a shield on themselves in a
few ways. This topic will cover buckler properties, advantages, and limitations for a red fighter.
All red fighters should strike to have a shield equipped on themselves in some way, except
when seeking to utilize tumbles. For more information on the other shield equipping options for
a red, see topics 2.14 Back Shields and 3.10 Punch and Pie. If interested in tumbling, see
topic 4.01 Tumbling in the advanced section.
Bucklers can be attached to a red fighters arm to gain limited forward based shield
defensive properties. Bucklers are most effective in like fighting situations. The shield is
movable to an extent, depending on where on the arm it was placed. Regardless, all bucklers
can be used to block arrow fire reasonably well. Bucklers generally are made in smaller sizes,
as too big a buckler can severely inhibit swings. They are also light in nature, so as to further
prevent limitations on swings. In general, the bigger the buckler, the higher up the arm it should
go. Because a buckler is attached to the arm, be sure to abide by Dagorhir and Belegarth rule
sets after it has been struck twice by a red (if not dropped, assume it is not there).
Shoulder Bucklers
Attaching a buckler is usually connected to the upper bicep, where it is better utilized to
protect shoulder and arm shots. These types of bucklers are typically larger, as they do not
inhibit swings as much as compared to the forearm option. Figure 80 below shows a larger
buckler attached to the upper arm. Notice that the shield is out of the way, but still retains a
sizable amount of blocking power.


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Figure 80 Upper Arm Buckler

Forearm Bucklers
Alternatively, smaller bucklers are better attached to the forearm of the non-dominant
arm. Smaller bucklers equipped this way are lighter, faster, and more maneuverable, able to
move in a wider radius. They cannot withstand a heavy amount of force, as their blocking power
is limited by weight and attachment limitations. If a forearm buckler is too big or heavy, it can be
clumsy, severely effecting a red fighter swings. Figure 6 below is a chart taken from topic 1.02
Shatter Shots illustrating the low natural blocking power a buckler really has compared to other
weapons and shields. Though the shoulder buckler is not listed in this chart, it can block close to
twice as much (2.7 rated) compared to a buckler strapped to the forearm (1.5 rated) listed.










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1
1.5
2.5
3.2
3.8
4.5
5
5.4
6
6.5
6.9
7.3
8
8.2
9
10
Natural Block Power












Figure 6 Natural Blocking Power Chart

Forearm bucklers are excellent for blocking blue, green and yellow shots. Red shots
should be blocked with the red instead. If a forearm buckler is not attached in an
optimal/comfortable position, it can move or spin when struck (shattered), hindering the red user
and limiting swing options. For example, Figure 81 on the left shows the wrist strapped in,
limiting wrist movement needed for tech shots and maneuvers. The straps should be moved
back 1-2 inches up the forearm to free up the wrist. Figure 82 on the right shows a buckler cut
out to give freedom to the wrist.









Figure 81 Wrist Strapped Figure 82 Wrist Free

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Multitasking with a Buckler
When using a buckler of any type, be sure not to rely too heavily on the buckler for
defense alone. Many fighters will treat it as a dedicated shield, being suppressed by shots while
forgetting to use their red weapon. The buckler should serve to act as a supporting option,
catching shots from adjacent angles while attacking, or blocking shots while parrying other shots
with the red. Always try to make use of the red while a shot is being blocked by the buckler, as
the bucklers key advantage is that it is forward based. This means that a red fighter can both
block and attack at the same time if properly set up. Figure 83 shows a red fighter moving for a
strike while blocking the shot with the buckler.












Figure 83 Striking While Blocking With Buckler

2.11 Defense against Flails

Flails are a very common blue used in both Dagorhir and Belegarth sports. They present
interesting properties unique to most blues, and therefore have a topic dedicated to them. The
range and properties of a flail need to be considered in order to successfully defend against
them. In addition to these unique characteristics, flails have many disadvantages that can be
used against them. This topic will cover blocking and strategies for a red to use a flail against
itself from a red weapon fighters point of view.
Blocking a Flail
A flails most deadly component is that the head has the ability to wrap around a shield
or a parry hitting the body part behind. Earlier in this compendium, handle blocking was
discussed (topic 1.04 Handle Blocking), showing blocks in different quadrants. Blocking a flail

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uses the same principles. However, all blocks need to be conducted at an additional 4-5 inches
away from the body. This is because the head of a flail will continue to wrap after the block
(unless actual head of the flail is blocked). Be sure to keep the red in line with the body on the
Y-axis just like with blocking a sword. Figure 84 below shows the difference in handle blocking
for a flail in contrast to a sword.















Figure 84 Handle Blocking Differences Flail vs Sword

Do not let a flail rapid fire using momentum, i.e. a left, right, left strike. This combo is
very dangerous to a red fighter, and hard to defend against. In this situation, the flail user has
found a sweet spot in the momentum that lessens recoil limitations to a great degree. Either
close in for a weapon manipulation or a grapple, or back off! It is also not recommended to arm
snipe a flail user. A flails range can beat a red to the shot, often taking the red fighters arm
before losing their own.
Using a Flail against Itself
Know that flail users have deceptive range control, and can very easily compete with a
red on these terms. Understand these flail limitations to turn a flail on itself:



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Flail users are comfortable at a longer range, and much less at close range.
Flails cannot stab, so a red user can better dedicate defenses on strike only.
Flails are also at a higher risk of grappling, due to having a large non-striking haft.
Flails have limited feint capabilities unlike a blue sword; once they commit it is usually a
strike.
Flails have a slow reload time once they swing. This is because the head of the flail
makes for slower recoil even if the flail is light.

For these reasons, red fighters should attempt to close range on a flail opponent and
seek to grab the shaft of the flail. Recognize the incoming flail shot, block it, and grab the shaft.
Knowing these weapon limitations means that a flail fighter is the easiest blue to grapple. Many
times staying out of range and simply taking a hand off the red, shows the flail opponent you
intend to grab and disarm them. Stepping into range, blocking with one hand, and sweeping for
a grab even a few times will instantly intimidate a flail user making them second guess you as
an opponent. In many cases, a flail user will let go of their flail once grabbed, as they will not
want the head to be damaged. If this happens, feel free to kill them with their own weapon!
While it is true the wrapping nature will force a red user to take extra blocking distance
into consideration, a red fighter can use this to their advantage. Flail users typically aim to wrap,
striking the back. The back is typically the most unguarded area, thus being a very desirable
place to aim for. If outfitted with a back shield, a red user can close the distance into grappling
range. Doing this will force the flail user to have two options to strike: the back wrap, or the legs.
Since a back shield is equipped, the back wrap will fail. Striking the legs is not a mortal blow, so
a red fighter effectively is protecting their arms and body by doing this. Usually in this situation
the red can choose to grapple the flail, or go for kill with the middle part of the red.
Concerning tech and power styles, tech moves are less effective due to a flail being able
to compete with red tech shots. However, power shots are particularly effective. This is due to a
flail being top heavy and off center near the head. For more information concerning these two
fighting styles, see topics 2.16 Power Style and 2.20 Tech Style. A moderate power shot
placed well can knock the flail about, and easily cause a disarm! Figure 85 below shows the
most optimal spot to strike a flail. Striking a flail on or near the chain will cause the greatest
effect. For this reason, flail users typically will hide the flail chain, as to avoid this weakness. If
they lead with the flail chain out, dont not miss the opportunity to strike for it. However, be
careful for the opponent using this as bait.







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Figure 85 Optimal Red Striking on a Flail

2.12 Suppressive Fire

Suppressive fire is a very effective method primarily used to support range control and
intimidation at the cost of energy. It is recommended to read and reference topic 1.11 Range
Control before utilizing this skill. Killing an opponent using suppressive fire is considered a
bonus, with the primary effect being to prevent the opponent from attacking. This short topic
discusses this techniques use, advantages, and disadvantages.
Use
Suppressive fire is executed by rapidly attacking an opponents weapon. Consistent and
hard enough strikes can cause repeating fumble shatters, possibly leading to a disarm.
Suppressive fire is very effective against shieldmen that choose to protect their shield with their
weapon, or even other red weapon fighters. It is not recommended against florentine fighters. In
many cases, two or three strikes is all that is necessary, as progressive strikes drain more and
more energy. It is important that each strike is committed with just as much energy as the last,
otherwise the opponent may take advantage and strike after a block.
Aim to strike repeatedly at a 10-2 oclock angle. This knocks the opponents weapon
downward which is more disruptive than side to side jarring. The strikes must be fast enough to

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where it leaves no room for the opponent to be able to strike in between blocks. This technique
effectively locks down the red fighter and the opponent, with the advantage going to the red
fighter.
Advantages
The greatest advantage in suppressive fire is that each swing attempt has a chance to
kill or weaken the opponent. The more consecutive swings, the greater the chance the
opponent will lose a shoulder, shield, or weapon. Many times this is a great technique to use
with an ally. An ally can follow up on the kill, while the opponent is forced to defend the repeated
red shots. Suppressive fire is also very effective for ensuring a leg hit. For example, 2-3 rapid
hits at the shoulder will force the opponent to dedicate the defense higher up. After these
strikes, immediately shoot for a leg, breaking the pattern.
This technique also generates large amounts of intimidation. Be ready to make use of
that intimidation after the strikes. For example, an aggressive shieldman commits to a red
fighter. To drop aggressiveness, the red fighter can throw 2-3 suppressive power shots to the
shoulder. Even if the shieldman blocks the shots, he will be intimidated and may be less
aggressive. Sometimes it can work, sometimes this technique can backfire and cause the
shieldman to become more aggressive. It is for this reason to best use suppressive fire when a
shieldman is already trying to close range in an aggressive pattern. In summary, suppressive
fire excels at repelling aggressive shieldmen, as it prevents attacks while attacking.

The best offense is a good defense!

Disadvantages
Energy drain is the greatest disadvantage of suppressive fire. Be mindful of each shot
thrown, and have a plan and understanding of why each repetitive shot is being thrown. Too
often red fighters go on auto-pilot during suppressive fire, abusing the technique and relying
on it to make a kill. While it is true suppressive fire can do offense while defending, know that it
is only temporary, and has limitations beyond energy. Opponents can adapt if used too often, or
sometimes it simply is not the right tool for the job. Depending on the opponent, it could
increase opponent aggressiveness. For these reasons, it is important to know the opponent
beforehand if possible. Experiment, and see if the technique is effective against that respective
opponent. Typically this method is very effective against newer aggressive opponents.
During suppressive fire swings, a reds arms are away from the body performing the
strikes. These arms are at risk of adjacent fire. For this reason, do not use suppressive fire in
line fights. As stated above, always take into consideration that suppressive fire may create a
more aggressive opponent. Be ready to shift gears and dedicate to defense or other methods of
range control. Many red fighters will tunnel vision, and not be aware of their surroundings during
suppressive fire. It is in fact difficult to do, especially while being engaged on by a gap closing

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shieldman! Practice is required to have awareness of other opponents that may create a
situation where the red becomes outnumbered. Red fighters have a tendency to be ganged up
on when being gap closed by an opponent, especially while one or more members are being
aggressive. This tactic used against the red fighter is commonly called rushing. For more
information on handing this situation see topic 3.11 Environment: Outnumbered. Lastly, be
mindful of a relative safety factor in performing this technique. As stated in topic 1.01 Swing
Control, shots to the head are illegal and dangerous. Maintain aggressive control for each and
every shot!

2.13 Defense against Reds

Defending against red fighters from the perspective of being a red essentially is a
mirrored fight. Both reds have generally the same weaknesses and advantages. Too often red
fighters spend a great deal of time vsing the most common shieldman, but fail to act correctly
when lined up against another red. This topic will aim to point out the perspective and general
concepts of vsing other reds, with a heavy reliance on other topics already discussed in this
compendium. To better understand how to most effectively fight a red opponent, it is
recommended to read the foundation topics (1.01-2.22) along with advanced and experimental
topics for additional insight.
Red fighters each have their own flavor and style. From the conventional to the
unconventional, the historical to the fantasy based. Each red fighter chooses what techniques
work for them, as well as the ones that dont. In any given situation for a red fighter, some
techniques and tools are very effective while others are not. To be able to beat the mirror match,
a red fighter needs to have an adequate skillset, experience in execution, and be able to adapt;
using what works. For this reason, mirror matches take an element of knowing each red fighter
you come up against. Many topics in this compendium easily relate already to what is needed
by you and your opponent. Knowing and finding areas your red opponent is weak in can greatly
turn the tides in a bout.
The Range Game
When squaring off with a red weapon, it is important to know who can strike first. If
possible, determine who has the longer red visually. For example, two red fighters square off:
one has a medium 56 inch red, and the other is using a min red. Since the 56 medium fighter
has the longer red, they can not only strike first, but with superior range control; limiting the red
fighters attacks. For more information regarding range control and how it controls fights for a
red, see topic 1.11 Range Control. Often times this can simplify things, making the fight easier
knowing which red is longer. Too often red fighters at a range disadvantage will rush in
forgetting the first strike, or being afraid to close into range. Using the example above, the min
red fighter should aim to block the first strike and move into a close range. The min red should
move close enough to a range where the min can be advantageous, while too close for comfort
for the medium red fighter. The min should also avoid getting into grapple range, as to take that
option away from the med red fighter. Figure 86 below helps to demonstrate how a min red can
get into a superior range.

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Figure 86 Gaining Superior Range as a Min Red

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Red Properties Overview
Always assume a red fighter is capable of using their weapon as a red, blue, single
green, and double green. If possible, ask or identify if the weapon can or cannot stab. For more
information on red stabbing, see topic 1.03 Stabbing. Though it is not commonly used, all reds
can gain a farther range through casting by means of blue striking. For more information on
casting, see topic 2.01 Casting. A red fighter can be tricky in these extents, effectively saving
range to be used for the stabs and casts. Watch for handle grip switching, as this can be a sign
of a red fighter looking to throw a cast or a max range stab.
Take into consideration the build of the fighter. Typically agile fighters will be fast,
utilizing faster lighter shots. These fighters tend to be slippery, using deception and technique
as a means of generating intimidation giving an advantage in order to control the fight. Their
footing tends to be organic, smooth, and unpredictable. If vsing these types of fighters, be ready
to expect feints and deceptive lighter strikes. Fighters that are strong and more centered on
their base tend to throw powerful strikes. These fighters will rely on power for shattering to
generate intimidation as an advantage. Their footing will tend to have a solid foundation, with
linear strikes. If vsing these types of fighters, be ready to block harder strikes. As a note, any
red fighter can use any combination of tools and tactics of both areas which makes up their style
and flavor. Again, it is important to learn each and every red fighter as best as possible.
As stated in topic 2.10 Bucklers and 2.14 Back Shields, any red may equip a buckler
or a back shield on the bicep, forearm, or back. Though it is not entirely wrong to break the
shield, it is usually unnecessary. Aim to hit around the shield, as there are plenty of open target
points on a red fighter. In the event a red fighter is abusing the shield or hiding behind it, throw a
red shot to the shield. Often times just landing a single red hit on a shield is enough to make the
red opponent think twice about depending on it. Fighters tend to want to preserve shields, even
if it subconsciously limits their fighting. The reason for this is that fighters will perceive to need
the shield for other fighters after they kill you! If a red opponent is utilizing a back shield, be
ready for spin shots or other behind the back trick shots. If wearing a front buckler, know that
the red fighter will typically immediately follow up with an attack after blocking a strike with the
buckler.
Reds in the Field
In a one on one situation with a red, aim to disable them. A single loss of a leg or arm
significantly hinders a red fighter. A shieldmen still has a shield on their knees, and becomes a
turtle. If armed, they have a choice, to be a shield wall or drop the shield and fight. An
opportunity to limb an archer or spearman is usually not even in the cards. If a red loses an arm,
it is a slow moving blue with some range. And a red fighter on their knees has no way to control
range. Breaking down the situation, and aiming for limbs of opportunity such as legs and arms is
the go to way to taking a red out of a duel. In duels, min reds are usually the most common type
of red, due to the speed and enhanced toolkit a min brings. For more information on min red
properties, see topic 1.10 Weaponry: Min Red. Figure 87 below shows the exposed leg for a
cast, or a chicken winged elbow that can be sniped.



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Figure 87 Avoid Leaving Exposed Limbs When Fighting as Red

In skirmishes, reds will often try to line up against shieldmen or other reds to create a
one on one situation while avoiding spears and ballistics. They will play a skirmish role to flank
and backstab opponents. For more insight and information on the roles reds play in a skirmish,
see topic 1.13 Environment: Skirmish. Catching a red moving on the flank needs to be
challenged early before fully getting around the flank. Many times red fighters will cast on the
run, taking legs so others cannot follow. Min and medium reds are most commonly seen in this
environment.
In line fighting polearms are the most advantageous and other longer reds are prevalent.
Reds will continue to aim at shields and adjacent fighters not paying attention on the line. If an
opponent red is causing a high threat and risk on the line, call and archer or spear to deal with
them. Many cases reds do not last long once focused by archer and/or spears. Leg casts can
still be cast on the line, as they still offer superior range. It is recommended to wear greaves or
leg armor to deter casts being thrown at the legs. For more information on line fighting tactics a
red can use, see topic 2.18 Environment: Line Fighting.

2.14 Back Shields

Back shields serve as the other common way to equip a shield while using a red. As the
name implies, back shields are placed on the back and strapped in to protect the back from
attacks. Because the back shield is carried on the back, it can be the biggest and heaviest of all
the supporting shields a red fighter can equip, while still retaining good mobility. Unlike the
buckler however, the back shield needs to be used actively turned in order to make the best use
of the protection. It is not as straight forward as the buckler, and often times blocks needs
planning ahead of time. For more information on the buckler, see topic 2.10 Bucklers. Too
often red fighters will equip a back shield and forget about it, utilizing it as a passive defense
only. Using the shield as an active defense allows the fighter to stay in control of the fight and

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Active Defense
(Proactive)
Passive Defense
(Reactive)
make better use of the back shield. Using the shield passively, does not help to gain control of
the fight. This topic should serve to help red fighters better utilize their back shields in an active
way, giving way to more unique, fun, and successful fighting style.











Construction
As stated above, back shields can be much larger and heavier than bucklers stored on
either the forearm or bicep. However, it still very useful to keep the shield light, and at a
reasonable size. Heavy back shields will slow the core and general movement of the red fighter,
as it adds more weight. Heavy shields are very effective towards being resistant to shattering
attacks. With a back shield, we are not concerned with it having resistance to shatters. With this
being said, it is recommended to avoid heavy wood core shields, or shields that have extra
weight added to them in other ways, such excessive duct tape, and heavy covers.
Try to construct the shields in a way that will not limit arm and body movement.
Significantly wide back shields can block and hinder elbow movement. Back shields sitting too
high on the back can limit crouching or vision over the shoulder. The back shield should be
secured to the user in a comfortable and flexible way. Back shields that are not harnessed well
to the user can slide, or can have unwanted movement during combat. For example, it is not
recommended to have a single strap over the body, as this allows the shield to pivot. Too many
straps however, prevents the shield from being taken off if needed for standard shield use.
Figure 88 below illustrates this explanation. Figure 89 shows optimal back shields in combat.
Take note of the cut outs at elbow level to give way to better elbow mobility. These shields are
light, and sit just at or below the shoulders. They are also plasti-dipped, which do not need a
cover. The round back shield in the far right sits very high and is wide which will limit vision and
certain movements.




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Figure 88 Optimal Back Shield Harnessing













Figure 89 Back shields in Combat

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Use
Assuming that a back shield is seated and comfortable, it can be a very flexible tool
when properly utilized. Always try to remember that the shield should be used as an active
defense and not just as a passive defense. The following active defense techniques are very
common and effective when working with a back shield.
Spins
Breaking Lines / Flanking
Close Combat
Blocking Javelin/Rock Ballistics
Transition to standard shield

When performed correctly, back shields add a greater level of protection when
performing a spin shot. During any spin there is always a moment where the back is vulnerable.
The back shield not only can passively defends this, but the vulnerability can be used as an
active defense to bait opponent attacks. For example, a red user can perform a spin knowing
the opponent will swing next. If timed correctly, the red user can have the back shield in place
for a block while performing a spin. Doing this ensures a hit from the spin, as the opponent is in
the middle of an offensive swing. For more information on performing a spin shot, see topic 2.07
Spins.
In line fighting or flanking, often times a red fighters back is the most vulnerable. This is
because after immediately punching through a line or behind the line killing opponents, many
fighters are either chasing the red from behind or swinging as the red passes by them. In this
situation, the back shield mainly serves as a passive defense, blocking chance shots by various
opponents. However, the shield can still be used as an active defense even in this situation. For
example, hits to the back shield can let the red fighter know without turning and looking. It also
let them know what weapon they may have, based on the impact on the shield. If the blow is a
spear like push, the red need not turn, and can keep running. This is because they know it was
a spear and spears are not very effective at chasing. In this situation it was probably a stray,
one time attempted stab. Smaller blue shots or red hits may need to be immediately addressed.
Back shields are the most superior shields to use for close combat. Bucklers can get tied
up of get in the way. Passively back shields prevent any wraps from the opponent during the
close range encounter. The red user can also actively bait back shield wraps and go for a
weapon manipulation, such as with flail opponents. For example, a red can close range on a flail
looking for a wrap. When the opponent goes for a kneejerk response wrap, the red only has to
grab the flail haft of the opponents weapon. For more information regarding grappling and
weapon manipulations, see topics 2.05 Grappling and 3.03 Short Range Fighting.
While bucklers are in fact superior for blocking all types of ballistics, a back shield can
still be used to block slower ballistics such as javelins and rocks. The back shield must be used
actively in these situations, as the red user must think ahead and turn the torso ahead of time to
block these attacks. It is recommended to always stay alert, and when not in the immediate
fight, turn the back to throw up a passive defense against archers and javelins.

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If properly suited, the back shield can be removed and placed on the hand/arm as a
standard shield. A red fighter can quickly remove the back shield and utilize it as a punch and
pie configuration. For this, the shield must have a punch handle instead of straps. This allows a
fighter unique advantages that a back shield alone does not have. For more information on the
execution of the punch and pie method, see topic 3.10 Punch and Pie.

2.15 Defense against Sword and Board

Learning how to defend against a shieldmen in Dagorhir or Belegarth is what sets new
and experienced red fighters apart. Being able to hold your own against a shieldmen in any
situation takes broad knowledge and extensive experience in red fighting. In fact, the majority of
all topics in this compendium can be applied to this one topic alone. It is for this reason that
being able to defend against a shieldmen is a very common rite of passage for all red fighters. If
a red fighter can demonstrate well in this topic, usually they are proficient in most of the other
topics in this compendium. With this being said, this topic will rely heavily on the referencing of
multiple other topics in this compendium. In addition, this topic will serve to give additional
information on the nature of a shielded fighter. Shieldmen range, the rush, weaponry, and
environments will be covered.











Range
The single greatest strength a red fighter has over a shieldmen is range advantage. As
stated in topic 1.11 Range Control, having superior range controls the fight. In most situations,
a shieldmans weapon will not have as much range as any red weapon. In theory, if a red can
maintain this advantage, that fighter will never be at risk of being struck. Take this in
combination with shield and armor breaking capabilities, and it adds up to a very formidable
threat. This is all taking into consideration superior range is always maintained. For more
information on range control, as well as tools to maintaining this superior range, see the range

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1.07 -
Disengauge
Attacking
1.12 - Footing
2.15 - Defense
against Sword
and Board
2.15 - Shield
Manipulation
2.03 - Feints
2.04 -
Intimidation
Factor
2.06 - Kicking
2.08 - Fighting
in Pairs
2.12 -
Suppressive
Fire
2.02 - Casting
3.02 - Indirect
Control
3.06 - Flipping
control topic listed above. Figure 32 below is a quick index of various tools, each with a
respective topic associated with it that add and maintain this range advantage.










Figure 32 Range Control Topics

The Rush
Under Construction/To Be continued!