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THE JAMDANI REVOLUTION

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KRISHAN SRINIVASAN
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Indian textile art

type of figured muslin that is one of the greatest accomplishments of the Indian
weaver. The origins of figured muslin are not clear; it is mentioned in Sanskrit literature of the
Gupta period (4th–6th century ad). It is known, however, that in the Mughal period (1556–1707)
the finest jāmdānīs were produced at Dacca (Dhākā), in the state of Bengal (now Bangladesh),
the work being characterized by extremely elaborate designs. The weaving of jāmdānīs was
introduced in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, under the nawabs of Oudh in the late 18th century and
attained great excellence. Because these textiles required great skill in their manufacture, they
were very costly and could be afforded only by the very rich.

A striking feature of jāmdānī muslins are the patterns of Persian derivation. The fabric is usually
a gray cotton ornamented with brightly coloured cotton and gold and silver wire. In saris, the
characteristic garment worn by Indian women, the corners are woven in patterns derived from
shawls. The field is decorated with bunches of flowers suggestive of the jasmine or with
diagonally arranged circles.

Citations
MLA Style:

"jāmdānī." Encyclopædia Britannica. 2009. Encyclopædia Britannica Online. 01


Dec. 2009 <http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/299805/jamdani>.

APA Style:

jāmdānī. (2009). In Encyclopædia Britannica. Retrieved December 01, 2009, from


Encyclopædia Britannica Online:
http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/299805/jamdani

March 30, 2008

Page: 23/33

Home > 2008 Issues > March 30, 2008

An Indian High Commissioner?s trysts in Bangladesh


By Prafull Goradia and K.R. Phanda

The Jamdani Revolution: Politics, Personalities and Civil Society in Bangladesh 1989-1992,
Krishnan Srinivasan, Har Anand, pp 386, Rs. 595.00

(Har Anand Publications Pvt. Ltd., E-49/3, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase II, New Delhi-110
020.)

Delhi, Nov 20 (IANS) Jamdani saris are known for their fine texture, elegant colours and their
steep price tags - “There is more awareness now about what Jamdani is - about how to
understand whether it is of good quality or not,” he said.
ISSN 1563-9304 | Agrahayon 3 1411 BS, Wednesday | December 02, 2009
Click here to print this article
Munira's Success Story:Behind the revival of handloom saris

Tuesday November 02 2004 01:40:22 AM BDT

Sadya Afreen Mallick

The Eid Shopping spree is on! The brightly-lit shopping arcades now pulsate with life. Gausia Market, the
Bashundhara city, Karnophuli Garden, Concord Tower, Rajlokkhi Complex, The Rifle Square, Navana Tower, Metro
Shopping Mall, the Mauchak Market turn into shopper hives.

Taking a look at Bailey Road, one finds that during the past few years, it has developed into a popular 'shoppers
stop' for deshi saris and other handloom products. Among the attractions is the shop of Munira Emdad, popularly
known as the Didi moni of the Tangail sari market. She is one of the women pioneers of our country who has
invested years into promoting the deshi sari industry.

With limited capital of US Dollars 1,000, Munira gathered some weavers and set up a single roomed outlet at Baily
road in 1982. 'It was sometime after liberation, I noticed,' went on Munira, 'the weavers of Tangail and Pabna
designed and sold saris at the market. These saris were coarse and inadequate in length. Naturally it failed to
attract the ladies with finer taste.

'It was a time when skilled artisans were thinking of shifting from their age-old profession due to falling demand. I
decided to gather a handful of weavers and provide them with new ideas and latest designs.'

Munira extended her help to buy yarns and materials for better designed saris.

Within the last 22 years, the one room store has grown into a multi-storied show room with 50 employees at four
branches in Dhaka. A proud owner of Tangail

Saree Kutir, she has become an icon in the field of local saris. She has been recreating original designs in cotton
saris and other local materials. More than 2,000 weavers and 500 women are directly working under her and
engaged in hand embroidery, block prints and other associated work.

'A gorgeous silk Jamdani in subdued colour made specifically for a bridal wear took six months to weave, said
Munira. The entire sari is in diagonal floral designs with sachcha(pure) zari work of silver and gold thread. The sari
costs about Taka 50,000 and is one of its kind. The order has to be placed well ahead for similar designs, she said.

'New dimensions have been re-created in embroidered Tangail silk sari with karchub work for the fashion frenzied.
The Mirpur Katans, Benarasi, silks and pure cotton saris are also available in a wide range of colours and shades.
The Muslin, the craft silk in tie-dye, the chand-tara designs in kataan, bring back the feeling of the bygone days.
The 'Shwarnalata' design was collected from a sari about 150 years old' said Munira.

As Munira puts it, 'following one's dream with commitment reaps rich reward.'

With proper guidance, direction in motifs, latest trends in design and materials Tangail saris are now in full bloom
in various shades and designs, capturing the hearts of the picky customers. Munira Emdad has gained wide
recognition as a successful entrepreneur. Her contribution to our culture has been immense and no doubt a model
for other entrepreneurs .
Back to the roots in vegetable dye sari

The Daily Star

http://www.bangladesh-web.com/view.php?hidDate=2004-11-
17&hidType=FEA&hidRecord=26974