You are on page 1of 5

otsrtruerlNVS zL

'Eruo8Ettd Jo rollle) uoslrreC alqEllla^ u se.&\ Jt{ 'etu 3^Jllaq lsapoa8 .uo11a{ -rno paqrrrd e,ry\-'tu'E t le JsoJ pue 'u'd g1
pue (sauots s,ueug {q paqrr:ue JrJ.^ sltelt aqt uo s.(uq t€ u.r\op tur,r\ uns aqt-s.{up 3uo1 a,tg Jo Jslnot eql re^O
'.{1peap su ef,r.{\l puu selueS;eu se lJa,&\s se Jextur ueellqC ')Itrr:1g parurud-.{e:ds uaag pBg strrrnl rsot{,t\ srllsBr a>ilI PIro.4\
epeura:d e 'sJnos ocsrd prp su 'pe.r,rog Jut,t\ PUe 'eal 'aauo3 rql lle roJ 3ur1oo1 'a1uqs {;anbrel {g padder e:arrr s>1eed altue:8
'seletuet urof, or llrtul:eul utsud ot uJlttqt Pa>leq uJo{ Sur8ue: qsrlurd aqt Jo luos '{;teuroa8 1et:elsr8eu; u otul sutetunoru
sreuurp pue isepeuudrua ,{rrds pue saqrunl pea.rds-r1ap lsauueut Jtlt pr^ref, puq spurm JgIrEd le]nJq pue 's.rerle18 snouue:,{l
tuegrreur s,olltl3 poeJ ot lsuot q8nouo puu 'uoreq 's33a 3o 'seourllo,r luolorA 'rruo8elu4 ol anbtun xru lurrSoloa8 e uy
stse;Iee:g trIsBq qtr^\ luJtuof, sn td3l 'ssuaf, 17 roJ 1oof, ulttu '.r\ar^ o ur^ot 'q8rq s-releur gg9'7'eure4 e:a11p:o33o s1:ad
s.uerrg se E)urtuv qtnos ur 8ur1a,te:t ueeq PEr{ eurlua8ry 3qr lJounr 1eoe13 frlrs .(g pa.rolor'aoqa4 a1e1 asronb:nt alud
uroU l3ttsleC prrtull-attq^\ u 'o8er:og uen{ 'durel ry aql Passortr a^a sv 'lred leuoDEN aured lrp sarrof s{3llt{J uI
'uerrg pres ,.'anyt u lo8 l,uaAEH,, ,(::ag uu;uureltl e uo ue8aq drrl aql 'a.laq.,n,(ue sE qlnu sV
'lr.4 eH pres ,,',{upung rg Plnor lL, ,tneaq pue qrperrg Ipar rqt papr,tord
'pres 1 s,(r:,tr1e e:eqt Surlre8 lnq 'suotleuttsap go ,hua1d ParnleeJ
,,'mou>1 r.uop .{yrseuoq 1,,
'uoos '11a,tr 'se,u uotllela lurruaprsa-rd aqr ,{:e:autlt ,(ep-11 :ng 'aru1d e su.n eruo8ete4 ut a;eq,u.(:a.ta
pue .{:osynduror sertt .{:lunoJ stq uI 8utlo.t asnureq PoulaluoJ 'q8noqr'aLu oa .,'are1d u sl JJJt{,&\ou,, 'alo:,tt xno:eql
1ne4'rruo8utecl uI
'puttuJo etuts lnJUrZ u ut paduerue
'uuapq3 aqt prlsu ,,gsr lr {ep tet{.\\ .&\oul ,{pog,(uu seog,,
'lool PuE aprnS luelstssu ue sE dr:l eql uo sn potutdu;olre ,(ltueueur:ed tlal I puu's1:ud luuorluu ltu;e:ouud lsotu s.€3lu 'allrteg ulor; luellnsuol luluJruuo:tlua autn8ues u rqt Jo ruo ur 8ur1rq s,{up e,r.g snot,te:d aqr ruads PBt{ 3A\
'11r.tro11 l?uuoq'Jgtrue$ s<uut;A pue'uur:g'eu;-{ltutlt.t 'lrnrrr) lo^Ert rooptno aqt uo lods :elndod
srq ur s:a8uu:ls arrqt ot uottsanb r: pesod uealtr{3 ltlrlt{le uE ,{13ursua:rur uu 'ayq3 pue EUltueBJV ulaqlnos ul EaJE ssru
'aureu str aurud Iap so:roa ane8 leqt sre.{\ol pazel8-al'eltut-18 -rrplrlv\ a|u-e:unbs-g00'00t rql'etuoSele4 r>luur lEtll sluetllslr
Jql Jo esuq aql ol JJJrs aqt dn pelqut:Js a.{\ st'uoou:413u Iernluu Surru:g eqt Jo auo '.ltu.t,t11t.u e se fpdn:qu sE PaqsIUB^
ruo 'se^ral snonPlfap e>lll slrolr rt{l lJo uellBJ e^ELl ol Prrurrs tuauturoddesrp ,{ur rng 'uorlBuusoP Jno qlurl ot :e8uo1 sn
spueq eqt teql utuo8elu4 ur aruad deep u qrns sB,' errql rlrl plno.{\ rr paturodduslp se,/r\ I 'eJntuJ^Pll .,tluEE aql Jo
'puq no,( ,&\rul ra^ru sPuE,, srqt ro; le^E{ ssrurePlrl6 s,{e1a1:ag qlrm uo peuSrs
no,{ saaul rno{ ut stuerur:8r1 ot no{ palnpollul aulu;our per{ oq.{\ 'doo:l :no Jo s:Jquraur a^g lrqto aqr qrr,ll 3uo1y
uo dn Surdaarr 'sruoq Surqsg
Jo slllq dn s1a.rt pur: 'uqo{ rprrl PUu ulgog (suB3lo
arazvr no.( lurqf no.( aPsu slsejoJ perdour:l Jllq^\ uapoo.{\ u;ulue9 qtrrrr dn prllg talur pntyd aql 'rrall^\ou Jo lno
q8no: a1y uozrrot{ eqt Plu,t\ol PJt{ttJrls s.rarlr:18 palrru8t:ltrg ,{lSurruaas pur: 'rq8ru aqrrnoq8norql st 'a.totu rq8r: eqr ,(1.rea1r
roqlne aql pue uelrg rt.ra1 pue $!MaH euuo6 sep1n6 aresaleprpuetr aLp..'au€d lap serrof u! aoqa6 o6e1 1e la1pdu.rm oql ol eulm Pue roaq leql
11" ,{rrp oi rrq fpoq-"roi,rgotu :qead eql fo rr 6uuea1: snoa6:o6 e ur spua sa)uerl allen qa}1aro} eql dn aryt{ 6ur6ue;;eqr V 'ellql Jo
"r"q "qr 6uluunF aql
qesd oml 'eure6 qoqranJ qql lqqlq6rq sslp anl€ :lJ:l'l oNv slgvd snorcud
eql aej ltro'1tp aured laP t"r.to1 u' ,o 1ap
'elguur8eurun stq8ls Peuunls lxau slll le 'epu,teg e::atg se.l lI 'o^or rplsulrltunouJ E uI rJllaqs tq8nos pue q8noue
aqt palqureseJ lueu;otu ouo tE lEI{l sle:r {poo.'n u,vroP PUE palarurund ueaq p,e,l\ prpltaP 'rrerts agl 3o s,(ear snonladtut
dn punorur reql sr>1q os-ro-ryut-SI qlr/t{ Prllg a:a,vr s.{uq 3r{l ur PasJe^ uEelIqS rulosPueq 'luapguor e'ze1ezuo)
'asnoq 8url.g s,,{qro.roq olut sturl ;no u-lnl ol 8ut a8:o[ urerde3 lnq 'lq8lu IIE l]eP uo pa,{els a^Eq plno.{'\ I
-u3lBergr sorseqnl{r .(pq8ru aql 'rllg ,(1[qc str lsol uloPlas rIE 'o8eyedrqr:e tuepre^'par.r:as eqt ;o
aql 'daa.^ euuez)J aPeur e^Eq Plno.{\ reqr spnop ,(q perured uel{ rr{r ur Surag te tq8rlap qrmt ,ippr8 tnq Suur^rqs Pue
'e:nze pauteu;al setls rlp sllt{.4 pue'a:aqdsru-rrH ureqlnos trlr\ sElv\ 1 ',(1s ogt fop of ue8ag sJBls sB aPlslno peulerurl I
rql ul rruruns tuertu {:en:qag 'eJrlllPro) rualsru8eu eql 'r^ots uorr uB punoru pelpPnq dno:8 1e.te.rr slllJo lsrr al{l
,iq pe.anopeqs rruu tlrea 'slods dtue: snolndod o,4 l ul slual '.(a11e8 aqt otul >peg PspnP pue pauur:8 uer:g
He first came to South America in 1972 after "winning the exploring coastal Patagonia and the jungles ofEcuador. Lake
lottery," he said. That would be the Vietnam draft lottery. admired Brian's deep knowledge of South American customs,
Since then, he had guided seekers through Amazonian but Lake's gentle, earnest temperament was the antithesis of
jungles and Andean mountainscapes that sometimes even Brian's Kit Carson swagger.
the natives didn't know existed. Lake also had the strangest, though wonderfully charming,
Brian's favorite line was, "Don't let facts spoil a good story," habit of coming up with a quip for every situation. I think he
and he apparently didn't. But it didn't matter. When he regaled swallowed Ambrose Bierce's Deuils Dictionary as a child.
us with tales of facing down a grizzly bear in Alaska and During one late-afternoon squall, for instance, the rain
experiencing the "life-altering sensation of being the prey"; drenching us in an instant, I lamented that if I had brought my

LEFT: lnthe calm of a late Patagonian afternoon, along the flowery Las Torres campsite, horses gallop back to the corral of a nearby estancia.
RIGHT Hewitt takes the lead in a two-person sea kayak, paddling through an icy field in a lonely flord in Tiena del Fuego. Waterfalls stream down
steep adjacent mountains-which form a spooky, spectacular corridor-as steamer ducks speed along the ford's surface like flapping hovercrafu.

of being buzzed by condors while bolted and roped to the gloves, my hands wouldn't be freezing. "Right," he said. "And
side of a vertical granite mountain in Colombia; of pitching if crickets had shotguns, the birds wouldn't screw with them."
a tent on the banks of the Tambopata in Peru and waking As the second leg of the journey began, one of Lake's
up in the night in the middle of the flooding river; well, aphorisms resonated presciently across the stormy strait and
I believed the essence of what he was saying. into Tierra del Fuego: "You're going to love not loving this."
A sage with a macho edge, Brian, 47, hiked in rubber beach But it was impossible not to love the haunting mountains
flops, carrying a pink canvas backpack that was probably and harsh tundra surrounding us as the Cabo Tamar chugged
new during World War II. (This was a guy who wouldn't be for hours along the narrow fjords, searching for a calm inlet
caught dead in an outdoors store. Hewitt told me that when where we could set up camp. Although Brian had previouslv
she bought Brian a Patagonia fleece jacket, he struggled for scouted the Serrano Sound, this would be the first time any-
hours to take off the label.) He walked with a metal pole- one had camped on its shores, and certainly the first tin-re
years of rock climbing had eaten away the cartilage in one dizzy Americans would paddle along its waters.
of his knees-and he never varied his moderate speed. Uphill, The virginity of our voyage, in fact, inspired breathless
downhill, it didnt matter: He was consistency in motion and conversations aboard the boat. "This is the planet as we first
a pleasure to follow. received it," someone said. "This is untampered nature, a
Often, Brian halted us on the trail and ree led off the privileged view that few will ever share," commented another.
Latin names of trees, flowers, and birds: Nothofagus anta,'tica, fust as we were reveling in our good fortune to be this far
Fuchsia magellanica, and Cygnus melanchotyphzs, for the regal from civilization, Brian and Captain Gonzalez spotted an
black-necked swan. One morning, I confessed I wasn't sure inlet in which to anchor. As we approached the shore, an
that knowing all the scientific names brought us any closer to unidentifiable white object appeared on a small mountaintop.
nature. Brian laughed and told me of the time he was scouting "What in the world is that?" I wondered.
trails in Peru with a Quechua Indian mule herder, constantly "It's got to be some kind of animal," Hewitt said.
asking him to identify a new plant or mountain pass, and "I don't know," said Lake. "It looks like a plastic lawn chair."
each time being told, Tiene su nombre; It has its name. As we motored closer, Brian stepped out onto the bow.
On the trail and particularly during posthike drinking "Oh my God," he said. "It is one of those stupid lawn chairs.
sessions, I got to know Reg Lake, 56, who was taking a few Thatt a crime against nature. We're not leaving without it."
final pointe rs from Brian before guiding his own trips in Shortly after anchoring, antsy to get offthe boat, we strug-
Patagonia. A legendary kayaker-often called the grand- gled into layers of long underwear and cumbersome Goreilex
father of the sport-Lake lives in Santa Cruz when he isn't dry suits, and set the crayon-colored (coNrrNUED oN eAGE 136)

REG LAKE (left three); KEVIN BERGER (right) May 2000 73

jNVS gt,t
puB r{runl PJuodlsod r^\ PUe'eluelstp
ar{t ur Iurs p.rudoal re3 e pauods a>1e1
'peaq .(ur 3o rrg ,&\eJ
E urqtt./r ot padoo,,ns 'f1s aqt 3ur11g
s8urm pelq a8nq srr':opuor V'sllnq
1e{u1 tsuru8e Surlpuro s8:aq a:ntetutur
'Jalu,t\ Jql Sutsua;r selpped rlJ,t\ s,{tor
-JEU snoureluf, eqt uI spunos fluo eqt
's;noq :o3{3 egr 3uo1e papr18 sy
'3ur1efu1 Jo rlnpeqls lln3 E ol
pererp reqrua.{\ eqt '{up txau 3r.{J
'qr:ad urutunour atelosrP € uo lteqtr
u.ue1 rrtseld e ssor)e Sututot slstJnol
3o a8eur aqt tu Sutuur:8 servr
rorunq 3o
esuas Pjnsge ,{Prej-lad u qll.4\ ulltujJtlsu
uealrqC B rreq/v\ruros 'durer ot 1leq sn
Pe.{\or UEIJg Pue ejl. ^ eql Puno^run I
'ireq str otur peurnq ser ..66/f /9 'eurql
-JEW 'luoc,, 't{snq u ol Parl^\ rleql rql
punoJ pue rplslllq aqt dn ,{u,tr fru prls
puu paddrls I 'rl1r^lrry ,(q pau.."ro aruo
sE,t\ ejns ,(ffe:d u.1 qJqm ',{g8urp ua
'0oz' t$ Ilareurxo.rdde are
-poorrr ,ta>pr: s,"toutol oqo) )q) uI a:eql
sorel '(92s9-sg//008) saurHrv alrLll uel .ro aru pJ.r\oJ uetrg 's:etu.rr, .{ddoqr uo PUB
(ggtz-8g9/0tS) le^el1 ssauraPpll 6ur;;er fq
:nodu,trop e ut'og 'pur1 fq urulunoul
paFuere aq ue) 'eltql'seualv elund ul
turod 6uruels aql ol slqbrll :1fnvul UtV
Jql qlue: ot fe,u ou sEA\ J:eql lnfl
'ptes I ..'op 1,,
',{:erautlt paltelep e lo} uo)'lanel}ssau r.'rrer.ll Jr{t enf,sJr s(lr-L,
'aru o1
-rapl rM lrsrA lo'Luotr'la^ellssoulapll/v\@olul ..isuBetu rBqr lBq^\ ,{\ou),,
lreura '88t2-899 (0LS) llef, :lsvINO) pres uur:g ,,'a,roqe uo:; u8rs e s,11,,
'sleaur pue 'luaudrnbe 'uotleuodsuell eas 'urer rql q8no:gt palaad uns
pue puel'suorlepourulof,le 6urpnpur'967'59 eqt 'uoou:at3u elEl rl{f ut pue')If,tnb
ot 96Z'€$ a6uer arnlua^pe 6ur1er(e1 pue p1o ro8'q8noql'sluel rno ur Surlppng
6ur4q {ep-11, snonuels eq} ro1 slsor puel fue 'rurr{l ur sr^81!t aqt Sug.rns uo peuueld
-nrqa1 q6norql raquala6 sdul ,,qye3 aqr 1o
a/\a sselun '1e,(e1 ,{g alqe8rneuun e:a,tr
spuf ,, earql s.rajlo la^e{ ssaurePlrM :sf,lsvg
sp:o$ eqt pue'palu.lrr PUI^\ aql 'pa:nod
VINSSVJVd tI'lertuessa sem'pueq reqlo rt{l uo
',{a11e,r urutunou-r ,{g:eeu € Jo lIEJls JI{l 'reo8 uteg 'suotlelredxe su,r. palrud
u,r\oP SurrJIrP'lsltu rql olul Prqsl e^Bq plnor auo,{ue Surql ls:orrl 3ql Pue
-ue, ,{11eug Eruo8elucl Jo suorldlrf,saP 'p1:orrr rale/!\ atuoJaq Peq Joolt ]uel
'qunu pue prratsrlq spueq {ur'pro(3 .{uors aqa 's>lunq rf,I\ Palelor se^r
plor-Burzaa;3 e ur Ie{.BI per-tq8rrq rltrBJg rllll :no'Sututotu lxau f,qI
e ur Sutllts tng 'pultu ,(ur q8no:qt 'JrlEAr aql otur Surpoldxe '.latre18
patreJ turll Jutos eJa,ry\ asoqt 's,{up snorn qsrnlq elJo pa:arurlds slead po33u{
-a-rd ur puv 'satueu stt seq alnleu 'sa1 'f11n31ueqr pue ,(puarred peq)tc.&r a^{
'erurlgns'lngured':e1n:elleds'a:eira5 pue '.,r,roqs s(arnleu serrr srqa 'sedols
'prIUIlq re^au I{uEg rl{r Pue 'Prlletr ,{ssou-t u,uop Surlqurnr s11e3:alu.n 'sn
sr eruo8eted rnoqe >looq6t6l snouruJ Suruer3 sle.e\ uletunoru Jeaqs'i(eq .(urr
E se
(qtreg eqt r ur Polsar r a 'P^\orr
,{ln:un fpqSrls e
Jo rred tsoutralln eql
ot uoltuztp^rf, rq8no.rq pEI{ e,,y1 e11 sn ,(q Sutu-t:urrrts s8:aq pazrs-roplnoq
'ure8e plnorrr :e,rau '8uruetsr18'arr qse:q q8no:qt papped sn
{.1geqo:d pue 'a:o3eq sn Jo selll 3qr .]o lsal rql 'pe>1:o.a,r uatu JnoJ agl sV
uees r3AJU peq rH 'lor .(rr elqBuoJtuor 'rroqs rql ruo{ seuols Jo slaFnq
slq urog Sut.toru :a,tau ',{1sno:on3ue1 Surlneq .{q paree:r :oog la.rer8 e uo dn
sn pa.(e lsn[ aq 'art qtrrvr paze18 srods las ,teqr qttq,tr 'sluot rno JoJ areds :ea1l
u^rorg slq 'q8noqr '1ees p:edoe1 srqr or soqsng puu saert fe,r,re paryeq {aqr
uodn aurer a.u sy 'eteu;,{e1d e ro3 p:ot3 'srnoq :og ut sexe'1e: elqelegut ue
eql otur urlq dlg ot raqloq.t Surreqap ur eroqs 01 PJJOIOUJ SjaqtIIatIJ .t\JJf, OA l
,(18uru;aas 'sp:e,{3o sPaJPUnq JoJ trrlt{ s.J.aruoJoqo) )yt pue 'zalezuog 'uut:g
pe,4 olloJ
.{lsnouruo PBq Pas p:edoa1 'aurqueetu JI{l uI 'Ja eA agr ur s>1e,(e1
e'qu.{e1 e ut auole erru stql Prlnors
(sz 39vd l loul cSqNll.Nof)
p,eq rlq.{\ leql sn Plol Peq uElrg 'lool
rssol) E elul ol selnultu gg :o3 palpped
eler-r e sr aJau/tAAJaAf

Related Interests