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10 of the best restaurants and cafes in Lisbon

As Lisbon's biggest market is transformed into a gourmet food hall, we take a look at the
best places to eat in Portugal's capital, a city renowned for its seafood – and custard tarts
• Have you been to Lisbon? Tell us about your favourite place to eat in the
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Isabel Choat
theguardian.com, Thursday 26 June 2014 12.49 BST
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Lisbon's new food court, Mercado da Ribiera, is a collection of 35 shops and restaurants selling regional specialities.
Photograph: Arlindo Camacho/Time Out

Time Out Mercado da Ribeira, Cais do Sodré
Within weeks of its opening in May 2014, the new food court at Mercado da
Ribeira – Lisbon's biggest fresh food market – has become a firm favourite
among Lisboans. The first permanent foodie venture for Time Out, the market
hosts a total of 35 kiosks – all branded in the same smart black and white
signage and selling regional specialities, including Azeitão sheep's cheese,
plates of ham from the Alentejo, and custard tarts from award-winning cafe
Aloma. Tins of sardines in beautiful retro packaging at the Conserveira de
Lisboa, wines from Garrafeira Nacional or chocolates from Arcádia make
great presents to take home. In addition, five top chefs have restaurants here,
offering clever dishes playing with Portuguese flavours from €5 (marinated
mackerel with gazpacho at Alexandre Silva). Settle yourself at one of the high
wooden benches and it would be very easy to while away a few hours eating

well discovered by tourists but still loved by locals. open from 10am to midnight (Sunday to Wednesday). or to indulge children – my son was given paper and pencils and lots of hair ruffles. cervejariaramiro. Piles of toasted bread dripping in garlic butter are brought to your table while you wait – and replenished when you inevitably polish them off. offering drinks to those standing in line. If you can. but still have time for a joke with regulars. lobster. although the staff do their best to keep hungry punters happy. +351 21 885 1024. Intendente Nicknamed the seafood temple. crab. Ramiro's is a well-oiled machine with slick. Get there early to avoid queuing. the classics in every Portuguese restaurant: clams and percebes(barnacles). The original fish. huge red scarlet shrimp. fruit and vegetable stalls on the other side of the huge 19th century building still sell their wares every day.your way around Portugal's culinary highlights. Originally opened in 1956. except Sunday. speedy service from waiters who zip about holding giant platters of seafood aloft. spikey shellfish (known as spiny dyemurex). and of course. until lunchtime. Bairro Alto . leave room for a prego. a steak sandwich which is usually served after the seafood. Ramiro is a historic Lisbon institution. This is the place to come to indulge in the country's fantastic seafood – glass cabinets display fabulous tiger prawns. • Avenida Almirante Reis 1.pt Decadente. 10am to 2am (Thursday to Saturday) Cervejaria Ramiro. • Avenida 24 de Julho Lisbon. oysters.

artfully arranged vintage kitchen finds and low-hanging table lamps create a stylish backdrop for a modern Portuguese menu. to locals and non-guests as it does to the budget-conscious residents. Olives were brought to our table with a delicious tomato and olive oil dip and filigree-thin .theindependente. including seafood rice (described on the menu as Portugal on a plate). funky space that appeals as much. Chiado José Avillez is one of Portugal's most famous chefs. his bistro. simple room embellished with industrial chic features – factory lights and a concrete floor. Big shuttered windows. an atmospheric. experimental canapés. • Rua de São Pedro de Alcantara 81.The Independente Hostel & Suites is one of the city's impressive crop of stylish hostels and the Decadente is its in-house restaurant. Iberian pork belly and cod with honey and almonds. a trailblazer in the same mould as Ferran Adrià and Heston Blumenthal. a bar with gourmet. Cantinho do Avillez. +351 21 346 13 81. is a small. and owner of Michelin-starred Belcanto and the new Mini Bar. Tables spill out into a pleasant cobbled courtyard. if not more.pt Cantinho do Avillez.

pt Tágide Wine and Tapas Bar. The menu cherry-picks from international cuisines with the likes of lamb tagine. both including a glass of wine and coffee.com Kiosks and churrascarias. • Largo da Academia Nacional de Belas Artes 18 and 20. served warm with cinnamon ice-cream.50 or three for €12. Worth splashing out for.50 menu is worth it for Tágide's version. • Rua dos Duques de Bragança 7. restaurantetagide.toast.50. Go at lunchtime and order the steak sandwich (€8. Chiado. Set in an elegant room of glossy dark wood and shelves lined with Portuguese wines. My tuna main course was the most tender piece of the fish I've ever eaten. +351 213 404 010. If you haven't already gorged on custard tarts. city-wide . Even at night. it's a place to linger. overlooking the town hall. + 351 21 199 2369. the €12.75) or dish of the day (€10.25 and deserts from €5) are a lot less than you would pay for a similar meal and service in many other European cities. steak tartar with New York potatoes and suckling pig with Asian flavours.cantinhodoaville. Or order separate small plates of Ibérico ham (€9) or the Portuguese classic amêijoas à bulhão pato (clams in white wine and garlic). and prawns were sweet and fresh. below the famous restaurant of the same name. There are two lunch options: one course for €8.50) to keep the bill down.50. mains from €17. the prices (starters from €4. Chiado This fabulous tapas bar is in upmarket Chiado.

TV on in the corner. the kiosk opposite the Independente hostel in Bairro Alto sells draft Sagres for €2. as does half a chicken (a great takeaway option if you're staying nearby).50 and a caipirinha €6. beer. and nab one of the deckchairs offering views across the terracotta rooftops.80 and soup of the day for €3. Come at happy hour (69pm) when a (150ml) beer costs €1. Every neighbourhood has at least one churrascaria – or grill. good coffee. newer ones are replicas but are painted the same classy racing green as the originals... even cocktails. Grilled sardines cost €8. their original wrought iron restored. reasonably priced fresh juices. but civilised rest spots on some of the city's famous hills or in shady parks. coffee for €1. white paper tablecloths. sandwiches from €3. The Churrasco da Graça in the villagey neighbourhood of the same name is a classic example .In Lisbon kiosks aren't the desperate last resort of late-night commuters. As an example. and offering decent snacks. Cacilhas .20. tables full of locals. Many have been in the same spot for decades. • Largo da Graca 43 Atira-te ao Rio.

But if you want to see the whole city stretched out along the river bank you need to cross the Tagus to the south bank.Lisbon is a city of spectacular views. bread and olive butter as you choose between confit cod.20am. a glass of wine and two puddings came to €44. The food's pretty good too. fish stew or Portuguese steak. the twinkling orange lights of the city. rooftop terraces and historic towers provide panoramas. as darkness falls. A short walk alongside abandoned riverside warehouses brings you to this little restaurant where a few tables and chairs lit by torches are set along the water's edge. +351 21 275 1380. Ferries run from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas four times an hour until 1. Numerous miradors. • Cais do Gingal 69/70. There are tables inside (and fishing nets on the ceiling) but the point here is the view: you come here to see the sun setting behind the 25 de Abril suspension bridge and. Nibble on tuna pâté. atirateaorio. Our dinner for two with beer.pt SeaMe. Chiado . olives.

• Travessa do Ferragial 1. waitresses sporting I'm a Fish addict T-shirts. red mullet and Dover sole.50 buys you a main course and either soup or a dessert – served from a hatch by women in nylon aprons and hairnets.A modern take on the seafood restaurant.. SeaMe has solid wooden tables. it's a favourite among students and local office workers who come here to eke out their euros – €6.com 'The Nuns' Canteen' (Associação Católica Internacional ao Serviço da Juventude Feminina – ACISJF) Tucked away on an unmarked side street. SeaMe offers an Asian-inspired menu that makes an interesting change from the classics seen in most other restaurants. At that price you can't expect gourmet food but it's freshly cooked and comes with a gorgeous view from the roof terrace – tucked between the lush gardens of expensive apartments – of the rooftops and the suspension bridge. +351 213 240 910 À Margem . and a menu sprinkled with slogans . seared tuna comes with wasabi ice-cream. A bargain lunch with a spectacular view. Run by a Catholic association (hence the nickname). • Rua do Loreto 21. and other fish listed include John Dory. grouper.. let alone tourists. turbot. peixariamoderna. and so on. Alongside sushi and sashimi there's pan fried Azores parrot fish. Naff wording aside. +351 21 346 1564. cod. 'Good things come to those who wait'. waiting staff in grey Mao-style jackets. this is a place few Lisboans know about. with a discreet sign on the door.

Housed in a gleaming white former shipping container with views of the river from its open side. and still sells up to 20. flaky pastry filled with meltingly creamy custard and sprinkled with cinnamon sugar costs a modest €1. which means long queues for takeaways but it's easy to nab a seat in the labyrinthine interior. Despite their popularity the family owners have admirably refused to open other outlets. They are dangerously moreish so avoid if you want an appetite for À Margem. a 10-minute walk along the waterfront. They come by the coachload to see Belém tower.05. • Doca do Bom Sucesso.80) or fill up on custard tarts before you arrive and just take in the view over a glass of €5. There's a selection of sandwiches (from €6. À Margem is a cool.20 wine as sailing boats glide past.and of course. but a good option in a part of the city big on American chains and low on decent places to eat. Santa Maria de Belém. Not cheap. +351 91 782 4149. the spectacular Jerónimos Monastery.50).com • Additional reporting by Celia Pedroso . the cafe that invented the famous custard tart. A tart of crispy. the Pastéis de Belém.000 of them a day. salads (from €9.Belém is one of the most touristy parts of Lisbon.amargem. trendy spot that attracts well-heeled locals and some tourists.