Chef's Choice Knife
Sharpener and Your
Kitchen Knife
Learn what make up a good kitchen knife?
How Chef's Choice Knife Sharpener will
tranform your food preparation experience?
Kitchen Knife
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A kitchen knife is any knife that is intended to be used in food
preparation. While much of this work can be accomplished
with a few general-purpose knives, there are also many
specialized knives that are designed for specific tasks. Kitchen
knives can be made from several different materials.
Construction
Material
• Carbon steel is an alloy of iron and carbon, often
including other alloys such as vanadium and manganese.
Carbon steel commonly used in knives has around 1.0%
carbon (ex. AISI 1095), is inexpensive, and holds its
edge well. Carbon steel is normally easier to resharpen
than most stainless steels, but is vulnerable to rust and
stains. The blades must be cleaned, dried, and lubricated
after each use and new carbon-steel knives may impart
a metallic or "iron" flavor to acidic foods, though over
time, the steel will acquire a patina of oxidation which
will prevent corrosion.
• Stainless steel is an alloy of iron, approximately
10-15% chromium, possibly nickel, and molybdenum,
with only a small amount of carbon. Typical stainless
steel knives are made out of 420 stainless, a high-
chromium, low-end stainless steel alloy often used in
flatware. Most consumer grades of low-carbon stainless
are considerably softer than carbon steel and more
expensive grades of stainless, and must be more
frequently sharpened though most are highly resistant
to corrosion. The thin, flexible, shiny blades common
in cheap kitchen knives are typically made of low-
carbon, inexpensive stainless alloys. They are difficult to
sharpen, so they are often made with serrations, which
slows dulling and enables them to cut adequately when
they do become dull.
• High carbon stainless steel normally refers to higher-
grade, stainless steel alloys with a certain amount of
carbon, and is intended to combine the best attributes
of carbon steel and ordinary stainless steel. High
carbon stainless steel blades do not discolor or stain,
and maintain a sharp edge. Most of these 'high-
carbon' stainless blades also feature higher quality
alloys than less expensive stainless knives, often
including amounts of molybdenum, vanadium, cobalt,
and other components intended to increase strength,
edge-holding, and cutting ability. Examples of such
steels include 440-C, AUS-8, AUS-10, ATS-34, ATS-55,
vg-10, 154cm and many others.
• Laminated blades attempt to use the best of multiple
materials by creating a layered sandwich of different
steel alloys. By alternating layers of brittle and hard steel
the blade combines the attributes of both metals though
it is neither as stiff as the brittle steel or as flexible as
the hard steel in isolation. Many higher-quality knives
are made this way. A laminated blade's edge can often
be made harder than an ordinary stainless steel knife, in
turn facilitating a more acute grind on the cutting blade
and increasing the knife's cutting abilities.
• Titanium is lighter and less wear resistant, but because
it does not get hard, it does not take a very good edge.
However it is more flexible than steel. Titanium does not
impart any flavor to food. It is typically expensive and
not well suited to cutlery, used only as a buzz word.
• Ceramic knives are very hard, light, do not impart any
taste to food and do not corrode but require special
tools for sharpening. Ceramic blades are also very brittle,
and will chip if struck against hard objects or sharpened
improperly. They may snap if used to pry or lever foods
or other materials apart.
• Plastic blades are not very sharp and are mainly used
to cut through vegetables without causing discoloration.
They are not sharp enough to cut deeply into flesh, but
can cut or scratch skin.
Blade
Steel blades can be manufactured either by being forged or
stamped.
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 • Forged blades are made in an intricate, multi-step
process, often by skilled manual labor. A chunk of solid
or powdered steel alloy is heated to a high temperature,
and pounded while hot to form it. The blade is then
heated above critical temperature (which varies between
alloys), quenched in an appropriate quenchant, and
tempered to the desired hardness. After forging and heat
treating, the blade is polished and sharpened. Forged
blades are typically thicker and heavier than stamped
blades, an advantage in some situations.
• Stamped blades are cut to shape directly from cold rolled
steel, heat-treated for strength, then ground, polished,
and sharpened. Though they are not preferred by most
professional chefs, several popular knife brands, such
as Global, do use stamped and heat-treated blades in
their premium knives. Stamped blades can often, but not
always, be identified by the absence of a bolster.
Edge
Further information: Grind
The edge of the knife can be sharpened to a cutting surface in
a number of different ways.
• Flat ground blades have a profile that tapers from the
thick spine to the sharp edge in a straight or convex line.
Seen in cross section, the blade would form a long, thin
triangle, or where the taper does not extend to the back
of the blade, a long thin rectangle with one peaked side.
They are heavier and tougher than a hollow ground knife.
• Hollow ground blades have concave, beveled edges that
are ground starting midway down the blade, instead of
at the spine. The resulting blade has a thinner edge, so it
may have better cutting ability, but it is lighter and less
durable.
• Serrated blade knives have a wavy, scalloped or saw-like
blade. Serrations make knives ideal for cutting things
that are hard on the outside and soft on the inside
(such as bread or tomatoes) that might otherwise be
ruined by a slightly dull knife with a plain, flat-ground
edge. They are also particularly good on fibrous foods
like celery or cabbage. Serrated knives cut much better
than plain edge blade knives when dull, so they may
go longer without sharpening (some serrated blades
are claimed never to need sharpening.) However, they
require specialized equipment and a different technique
in order to resharpen them. Further, serrations are often
used to improve the cutting ability of a less-expensive,
soft stainless alloy blade, (usually incorporating an
extremely thin blade design to reduce friction). For this
reason, some professional chefs recommend buying at
least a moderately-priced serrated knife made of high-
carbon stainless, as these knives will inevitably dull and
have to be replaced or resharpened. Some companies
have names for their own serration patterns and apply
them to an entire line of knives. Examples are Cutco's
Double-D edge and Henckel's Eversharp Pro series.
• Granton edges have semi-circular scallops ground into
the edge that alternate on either side of the knife and
extend from the edge to the middle of the blade. This
edge was designed and patented in 1928 by Granton
Ragg Ltd.1 A similar design, kullenschliff (kulle is
Swedish for hill; schliff means sharpened in German),
has oval scallops (kullar) hollowed-out of one or both
sides of the blade above the edge. These are normally
found on meat carving knives but have recently appeared
on other types of knives, especially Western variations of
the Japanese santoku. The design of scallop-sided blades
is an attempt to ease the cutting and separation of meats,
cheese, and vegetables.
Handle
The handles of kitchen knives can be made from a number
of different materials, each of which has advantages and
disadvantages.
• Wood handles provide good grip, and most people
consider them to be the most attractive. They are,
however, slightly more difficult to care for as they must
be cleaned more thoroughly and occasionally treated
with mineral oil. Most wood handles, especially those of
ordinary varnished hardwood, do not resist water well,
and will crack or warp with prolonged exposure to water.
They should be hand-washed for that reason. Some
people argue that ordinary varnished wood handles can
harbor more microorganisms as the varnish layer wears
off, thus requiring resealing or revarnishing to seal the
wood's pores.
• Plastic handles are more easily cared for than wooden
handles and do not absorb microorganisms. However,
plastics may also be less resistant to ultraviolet damage
and may become brittle over time, resulting in cracking.
Some plastics are also slippery in the hand. The material
is lighter than most other materials, which may result in
a knife that is off-balance or too light for some tastes.
• Composite knives are made from laminated wood
composites impregnated with plastic resin. Pakkawood
and Staminawood are commonly encountered
composite wood handles. They are considered by many
chefs to be the best choice because they are as easy
to care for and as sanitary as plastic, they have the
appearance, weight, and grip of hardwood, and are
more durable than either. They often have a laminated,
polished appearance, and may have intense or varied
coloring.
• Stainless steel handles are the most durable of all
handles, as well as the most sanitary. Many argue,
however, that they are very slippery in the hand,
especially when wet. To counter this, many premium
knife makers make handles with ridges, bumps, or
indentations to provide extra grip. One disadvantage
of some all-metal handles is that knife weight usually
goes up considerably, affecting the knife's balance and
increasing hand and wrist fatigue.
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 knife stability and
Nomenclature extra weight

K Scales: The two portions

of handle material
(wood, plastic,
composite, etc)
that are attached
A Point: The very end of
to either side of
the knife, which is
the tang
used for piercing
L Rivets: The metal pins
B Tip: The first third
(usually 3) that
of the blade
hold the scales to
(approximately),
the tang
which is used for
small or delicate M Handle Guard: The lip below the
work butt of the handle,
which gives the
C Edge: The cutting
knife a better
surface of the
grip and prevents
knife, which
slipping
extends from
the point to the N Butt: The terminal end
heel. The edge of the handle
may be beveled or
symmetric. Types
D Heel: The rear part of Chef's knife
the blade, used for Main article: Chef's knife
cutting activities
Also known as a cook's knife or French knife even though the
that require more
knife style originates as the German cook's knife , the chef's
force
knife is an all-purpose knife that is curved to allow the cook to
E Spine: The top, thicker rock the knife on the cutting board for a more precise cut. The
portion of the broad and heavy blade also serves for chopping bone instead
blade, which of the cleaver making this knife the all purpose heavy knife for
adds weight and food preparation. Chef's knives are most commonly available
strength between 15 cm and 30 cm (6 and 12 inches), though 20 cm (8
inches) is the most common size.
F Bolster: The thick metal
portion joining Bread knife
the handle and Bread knives are a type of serrated knife that is usually
the blade, which between 15 cm and 25 cm (6 and 10 inches), with 20 cm (8
adds weight and inches) being a common length. The serrations on the blade
balance and keeps make it ideal for cutting bread and other foods with a hard
the cook's hand surface and soft interior. An offset serrated knife uses an offset
from slipping handle to ensure the cook's knuckles will not touch the cutting
surface when the blade has cut all of the way through the food.
G Finger Guard: The portion of the
bolster that keeps Butter knife
the cook's hand Butter knives have a dull cutting edge and are generally used
from slipping for spreading. Though more common as part of a table setting,
onto the blade they are used for meal preparation.

H Return: The point where Paring

the heel meets the A paring knife is a small knife with a plain edge blade that
bolster is ideal for peeling and other small or intricate work (such as
de-veining a shrimp, removing the seeds from a jalapeño, or
J Tang: The portion of the cutting small garnishes). It is designed to be an all-purpose
metal blade that knife, similar to a chef's knife, except smaller. Paring knives
extends into the are usually between 6 and 10 cm (2½ and 4 inches) long.
handle, giving the

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Utility
A utility knife is between a chef's knife and paring knife in
size; generally too fragile for heavier cutting tasks, and not well
suited to fine tasks, the utility knife has declined in popularity.
They are usually between about 10 cm and 18 cm (4 and 7
inches) in length.
Meat knives
Old carving knife and carving forks, non-stainless steel. Stag handles.
Note folding fork guards.
Carving
A carving knife is a large knife (between 20 cm and 38 cm (8
and 15 inches)) that is used to slice thin cuts of meat, including
poultry, roasts, hams, and other large cooked meats. A carving
knife is much thinner than a chef's knife (particularly at the
spine), enabling it to carve thinner, more precise slices. They
are generally shorter and wider than slicing knives.
Slicing
A slicing knife serves a similar function to a carving knife,
although it is generally longer and narrower. Slicers may have
plain or serrated edges. Such knives often incorporate blunted
or rounded tips, and feature kullenschliff (Swedish/German:
"hill-sharpened") or Granton edge (scalloped blades) to
improve meat separation. Slicers are designed to precisely
cut smaller and thinner slices of meat, and are normally
more flexible in order to accomplish this task. As such, many
cooks find them better suited to slicing ham, roasts, fish, or
barbecued beef and pork and venison
Cleaver
Main article: Cleaver (knife)
A meat cleaver is a large, most-often rectangular knife that
is used for splitting or "cleaving" meat and bone. A cleaver
may be distinguished from a kitchen knife of similar shape
by the fact that it has a heavy blade that is thick from the
spine to quite near the edge. The edge is sharply-beveled and
the bevel is typically convex. The knife is designed to cut with
a swift stroke without cracking, splintering or bending the
blade. Many cleavers have a hole in the end to allow them to
be easily hung on a rack. Cleavers are an essential tool for any
restaurant that prepares its own meat. The cleaver most often
found in a home knife set is a light-duty cleaver about 6" long.
Heavy cleavers with much thicker blades are often found in
the trade.
A "lobster splitter" is a light-duty cleaver used mainly for
shellfish and fowl which has the profile of a French knife.
The so-called 'Chinese cleaver' is not a cleaver, and most
manufacturers warn that it should not be used as a cleaver.
It is more properly referred to as a Chinese chef's knife
and is actually a general-purpose knife, analogous to the
French chef's knife or the Japanese santoku. The confusion
arises from the fact that Chinese chef's knives are rectangular
and that some (particularly older, traditional knives made
of carbon steel) have somewhat heavy blades. Also, the fact
that the blade is heavier toward the tip encourages skilled
Chinese chefs to use a swinging or "tapping" stroke as well as
a "pushing" stroke. However, the edge has the gradual bevel of
a chef's knife and may be damaged if used for splitting bone.
Actual cleavers in China have the same profile as chef's knives
but have much thicker blades with a sharp bevel and heavier
handles.
Boning
Main article: Boning knife
A boning knife is used to remove bones from cuts of meat. They
have a thin, flexible blade, usually about 12 cm to 15 cm (5 or 6
inches) long, that allows them to get in to small spaces. A stiff
boning knife is good for beef and pork, but a flexible boning
knife is preferred for poultry and fish.
Fillet
A fillet knife is like a very flexible boning knife that is used to
fillet and prepare fish. They have a blade that is about 15 cm
to 28 cm (6 to 11 inches) long, allowing them to move easily
along the backbone and under the skin of fish.
Ham slicer
A ham slicer is a special type of slicer, with a long blade and
rounded tip, that is offered by some manufacturers. They are
specially tailored to cutting ham, as they are generally thinner
and more flexible.
Small knives
Peeling
Also known as a Tourne Knife or Bird's Beak Knife, a peeling
knife has a pointed tip that curves downward sometimes
upward and side to side (towards the blade). They are often
used for many of the same tasks as paring knives. They can
be used to cut decorative garnishes (such as rosettes or fluted
mushrooms), slice soft fruits, or peel skins or blemishes.
They are also used to make a cut known as a tournée cut in
vegetables such as carrots.
Decorating
A decorating knife is any knife with a decorative blade. The
most common pattern is a simple zigzag. Decorating knives
are used for making fancy cuts for garnishes and presentation.
Trimming
Usually about 5 cm to 8 cm (2 to 3 inches) long, a trimming
knife has a small, curved blade that is shaped somewhat like a
boning knife. Trimming knives are ideal for small tasks such
as decorating and peeling.
Fluting
Usually about 5 cm to 10 cm (2 to 4 inches) long, a fluting knife
has a small blade that is very straight. Fluting knives are ideal
for small tasks such as decorating and peeling.
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Cheese knives
Soft cheese
Soft cheese knives are specially designed for slicing soft
cheese. They generally have holes in the blade to prevent the
cheese from sticking.
Hard cheese
Hard cheese knives are specially designed for slicing hard
cheese. They are sharp, so they can cut exact slices, and often
have a forked tip, allowing them to be used as a serving utensil
as well.
Parmesan cheese
Parmesan cheese knives are specially designed for slicing very
hard cheeses. They have very short, thick blades that allow the
user to put pressure into the cut.
Japanese knives
See also: Japanese knives
Santoku
Main article: Santoku
The Santoku knife has been called an Asian chef's knife
in deference to its general utility at a variety of cutting
tasks. The Santoku has a straighter edge than a chef's knife,
with a blunted sheepsfoot-tip blade and a thinner spine,
particularly near the point. From 12 cm to 18 cm (5 to
7 inches) long, a true Japanese Santoku is well-balanced,
normally flat-ground, and generally lighter and thinner than
its Western counterparts, often using superior blade steels to
provide a blade with exceptional hardness and an acute cutting
angle. This construction allows the knife to more easily slice
thin-boned and boneless meats, fish, and vegetables. Many
subsequent Western and Asian copies of the Japanese Santoku
do not always incorporate these features, resulting in reduced
cutting ability. Some Western Santoku-pattern knives are even
fitted with kullens, scallops on the sides of the blade above the
edge, in an attempt to reduce the sticking of foods and reduce
cutting friction. A standard in Asian (especially Japanese)
kitchens, the santoku and its Western copies have become very
popular in recent years with chefs in Europe and the United
States.
Usuba hocho
Main article: Usuba bocho
Usuba knives are Japanese knives used primarily for chopping
vegetables. Both the spine and edge are straight, making them
resemble cleavers, though they are much lighter.
Deba hocho
Main article: Deba bocho
Deba knives are Japanese knives used primarily for cutting
fish. They have blades that are 18 cm to 30 cm (7 to 12 inches)
long with a curved spine.
Chinese chef's knife
A Chinese chef's knife or Chinese kitchen knife — sometimes
referred to as a "Chinese cleaver" though it is not a cleaver — is
the rectangular-bladed, all-purpose knife traditionally used in
China, Vietnam, Cambodia, and many other Asian countries to
prepare a variety of meats, fish, and vegetables. The popularity
of this style of knife has spread with the associated cuisines.
Several manufacturers produce Chinese-style chef's knives
fabricated to the highest, modern standards with high-end
carbon and stainless steel alloys — particularly in Japan but
also in Germany, Brazil, etc. They resemble Western cleavers
in appearance, but most Chinese chef's knives are relatively
thin-bladed and designed for slicing, chopping, and mincing
vegetables, fish, and boneless meats. Heavier so-called 'bone'
cleavers are produced and are used much like Western-type
meat cleavers to prepare large sides of beef, pork, and other
boned meats. However, Chinese-style knives of this weight are
not common in the West.
The average Chinese home uses some variation of the
rectangular-bladed knife, usually around 18 cm to 28 cm (7–
11 inches) in length. Traditional knives had a simply-forged,
carbon steel blade with a long, ground bevel, but the typical
Chinese chef's knife is now a stamped blade. The traditional
handle is a full-length tang that is only about 1 or 2 cm wide,
which is passed through a metal cap, then through the center
of a round, wood dowel, then bent over and hammered into
the end of the handle to retain it. Newer models, particularly
those made in Japan or Germany, have full-width tangs
and riveted or injection-molded handles, but these handles
generally retain something of the traditional, round cross-
section. The wide, blade keeps the cook's fingers well off the
cutting surface and the round handle gives a nice "pivot point"
for the cutting stroke. The blade has a curvature or rocker
along its edge that is generally uniform, improving the knife's
ability to chop and mince meats and vegetables. The broad
rectangular blade also serves to scoop up chopped food for
transport to the wok or bowl. Although it may seem unwieldy,
skilled practitioners worldwide may be observed using this
style of knife for everything — even carving and fine work
normally accomplished with a paring knife.2
Specialty knives
Tomato
Main article: Tomato knife
A tomato knife is a small knife with a serrated blade. Typically
about the size of a utility knife, tomato knives are ideal for
cutting through the tough skin and soft flesh of tomatoes.
Oyster
An oyster knife (also known as a clam knife) has a short, thick
blade that is used to pry open oysters and separate their meat
from the shell. Some models have a shield built into the handle
that prevents the knife (and hand) from slipping and going too
far into the shell.
Deveiner
A deveiner or deveining knife is a small knife used to remove
the colon ("vein") from the back of shrimp.
Grapefruit
Main article: Grapefruit knife
A grapefruit knife has a long, fat, dull blade that is used to
separate the flesh of a grapefruit from the peel and inner
membranes. The blade is usually serrated, with a blunt tip, and
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some knives even have a different blade style on each end of Knife block
the handle. A knife block is a common way to store knives safely and close
Chestnut at hand in the kitchen. This is an angled block of wood, steel,
or other material, with slots for inserting knife blades, and
A chestnut knife is used to score a chestnut with an "X" cut
prior to roasting, so that steam does not build up inside and sometimes other accessories, like kitchen scissors. Many knife
blocks, particularly those made of wood, cannot be cleaned
cause the nut to explode. They have very shallow blades so that
on the inside. Magnetic knife bars and in-drawer holders are
they can cut through the shell without cutting through the nut
becoming popular as more sanitary alternatives.
inside.
Mincing Notable brands
Also known as a Mezzaluna (Italian: "half moon"), a mincing
Company Country Website Prominent Other/
knife is a uniquely designed knife comprised of a semicircular
brands notes
blade within a similarly shaped handle. Because they have a
highly curved blade, they make a good rocking motion and are Some of
ideal for mincing. Many mincing knives come with a wooden the most
cutting board with a circular bowl-shaped indentation that exceptional
matches the curvature of the knife. Some models have two hand
blades that are parallel to each other to increase their mincing made
power. Japanese
Large mezzaluna-like knives with shallow curves are style
sometimes used to cut pizza, though the rolling pizza cutter is knives
more common for this purpose. made
these
Tourner days.
Also called a bird's beak or peeling knife, the curved blade
of this short knife is used to peel vegetables, or to make a Sold
seven-sided, football-shaped cut when making vegetables into on US
garnishes. infomercials
in the
Accessories 1970s
Cutting board Japanese
Main article: Cutting board brand
A cutting board is kitchen utensil used in conjunction with produced
a knife. It is a flat surface, generally made of either wood or by
plastic, on which to cut food and which protects counter tops Yoshikin
and knives from damage. Made in
Carving fork Germany.
(Henckels
Main article: Carving fork
International:
A carving fork is a long, two-pronged fork used to hold meat Spain and
steady while it is being carved. They are often sold with carving China)
knives or slicers as part of a carving set.
Alton (Shun
Honing steel Brown Ken
Contrary to what many believe, the honing steel is not (Shun: Onion)
a sharpener. A honing steel straightens the blade while a Alton's
sharpener sharpens the blade. A honing steel is a rod made of Angles)
steel, ceramic, or diamond, generally about 30 cm (1 foot) long
(although can be longer) and 6 mm to 12 mm (¼ to ½ inch) Sells only
thick. It is used to hone a knife blade after sharpening in order ceramic
to restore the edge and improve cutting ability. knives

Shears Traditionally
Main article: Kitchen scissors sold for
fundraising
Shears are essentially kitchen scissors, though they can be purposes
used for many of the same jobs as knives, such as chopping
herbs. Users should be very careful not to cut food with shears K Made in
that do not separate, as they cannot be properly cleaned and Sabatier, Thiers,
may harbor bacteria. France,

6
Au Au such as sandpaper. For finer sharpening, a leather razor strop,
Carbone Carbone or strop, is often used. The smaller the angle between the blade
line are and stone, the sharper the knife will be, but the less side force
carbon is needed to bend the edge over or chip it off. Very sharp knives
steel sharpen at about 10 degrees (which implies that the knife's
edge is a 20-degree angle). Typical knives are sharpened at
Pro Made in 15 degrees. Knives that require a tough edge (such as those
Culinaire USA & that chop) sharpen at 20 degrees or more. For an extremely
Japan durable edge (such as a chisel or drawknife), blades can be
RH sharpened to 30 degrees. In general, but not always, the harder
Forschner, the material to be cut the higher the angle of the edge. The
Swiss composition of the stone affects the sharpness of the blade
Army (finer grain produces sharper blades), as does the composition
of the blade (some metals take and keep an edge better than
Spitzenklasse,
Made in others).
Grand Germany Clamp-style sharpening tools use a clamp with several holes
Gourmet with pre-defined angles. The stone is mounted on a rod
and is pulled through these holes, so that the angle remains
Notes consistent. Another system is the crock stick setup, where two
References sticks are put into a plastic or wooden base to form a V shape.
When the knife is pulled up the V, the angle is held so long as
• Brown, Alton (2003). Alton Brown's Gear the blade is held perpendicular to the base.
For Your Kitchen. Stewart, Tabori and Chang. Honing stones (also called whetstones) come in coarse and
ISBN1-58479-296-5. fine grits and can be described as hard or soft based on
• Wolf, Burt;Aronson, Emily;Fabricant, Florence (2000). whether the grit comes free of the stone with use. Arkansas,
The New Cook's Catalogue. Alfred Knopf. USA is a traditional source for honing stones, which are
ISBN0-375-40673-5. traditionally used with water or honing oil. India is another
traditional source for stones. Ceramic hones are also common,
• Lee, Matt and Lee, Ted (December 15, 2004). When a
especially for fine grit size. Japanese water stones (both
Knife Is the Gleam in a Cook's Eye. New York Times.
artificial and natural) come in very fine grits. Before use, they
• Cooking For Engineers - Examination of Parts of a Chef's are soaked in water, then flushed with water occasionally to
Knife and what to look for when buying a kitchen knife expose new stone material to the knife blade. The mixture
• "How to Succeed at Knife-Sharpening Without Losing a of water and abraded stone and knife material is known as
Thumb"New York Times, September 23, 2006 slurry, which can assist with the polishing of the knife edge and
help sharpen the blade. Generally, these are more costly than
oilstones. Coated hones, which have an abrasive, sometimes
See also diamonds, on a base of plastic or metal, are also available.
Sharpening blocks made with corundum are expensive.
• Knork - a knife and fork combination
Sharpening with diamond stones can be a real time saving step
• Sporf - a spoon, fork, and knife combination
in the sharpening process. Diamond is the hardest naturally
occurring substance known to man and as such can be used to
External links sharpen almost any material.1
• Diamond sharpening stones are an excellent tool for flattening
Media related to Kitchen knives at Wikimedia
waterstones. Use a very coarse diamond stone and draw
Commons
crosses on the surface of the waterstone with a pencil in order
• Cooking For Engineers - explains common kitchen to determine when you are finished. Rub the diamond stone
knives against the surface of the waterstone under running water
until the pencil marks are removed completely.2
Diamond stones are also the only way to manually sharpen
Editor's Note: Read Chef's Choice Knife Carbide cutting tools commonly used in woodworking and
Sharpener review here. machine shops. A fine grade of diamond such as a 25 micron
sized diamond is appropriate and the number of strokes taken
on each cutter wing should be the same in order to maintain
Knife Sharpening the balance of the carbide tool such as a router bit.3
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Another sharpening tool is known as a honing steel. A honing
Knives are sharpened by grinding against a hard rough steel is a type of hardened cylindrical rod used similarly to
surface, typically stone, or a soft surface with hard particles, honing stones. For example, a butcher steel is a round file with

7
the teeth running the long way, while a packer steel (used in
the meat packer's industry) is a smooth, polished steel rod
designed for straightening the turned edge of a knife, and
is also useful for burnishing a newly finished edge. Because
steels have a small diameter they exert high local pressure,
and therefore affect the knife metal when used with very little
force. They are intended for mild steel knives that are steeled
several times a day, but are not well suited for today's tougher
and harder steels.
Stropping a knife is a finishing step. This is often done with a
leather strap impregnated with abrasive compounds, but can
be done on paper, cardstock, or even cloth in a pinch. It will
not cut the edge significantly, but produces a very sharp edge
with very little metal loss. It is useful when a knife is still sharp,
but has lost that 'scary sharp' edge from use.
Maintenance may be done with a sharpening steel. This
process can affect alignment of the edge. Realigning the edge
can keep a knife sharp as often a rolled edge is responsible for
dullness.
A very sharp knife has an edge that is too small to see with
the eye; it may even be hard to focus in a microscope. The
shape near the edge can be highlighted by rotating the knife
and watching changes in reflection. Nicks and rolled edges can
also be seen.
If a knife is used as a scraper, a prybar, or encounters hard
particles in softer materials or fully, there may be a sideways
load at the tip. This may damage the knife.
See also
• Sharpening
• Sharpening stone
• Razor strop
References
1. ^ "Woodworkers Guide to Sharpening" English, Fox
Chapel, Pg 27, 29
2. ^ "Woodworkers Guide to Sharpening" English, Fox
Chapel, Pg 27, 29 ""Sharpening" Lie-Nielsen, Taunton
Press, Pg 23, 24
3. ^ "Sharpening" Lie-Nielsen, Taunton Press, Pg 194, 196
External links
• Sharpening products, manufacturers, and tips
Editor's Note: Read Chef's Choice Knife
Sharpener review here.
Knife Sharpening Experts:
Stropping It
Article Source: http://www.thecontentcorner.com
You've just sharpened your knives. You know that they're as
sharp as can be because you've tested them. They have a burr
that confirms it. Should you stop there?
You've got a burr on your blade edge and it should be removed.
At this point, tiny bits of metal still cling to your knife's edge.
These bits feel like sand on the edge. But you'd like to get it as
fine as it can be, even slippery sharp at that.
Maybe you've got knives that are going on display. Maybe
they're going to be included in a ceremony of some sort. Or
maybe you'd just like to show off your fine knives to your
friends and family. I'm sure you'd want your edges to shine, to
make them silky smooth. Well, then. It's time to strop it.
Stropping is a technique used to clean off a blade's edge
after sharpening. It is meant to bend and twist those clinging
metal pieces until they fall off. It's also done to realign
the microscopic teeth created on the edge while sharpening.
Stropping is done by swiping both sides of your blade's edge
over a leather strap. When you can no longer feel clinging bits,
you have successfully stropped your blade edge. It should be
shining nice and bright at this point. This is how stropping was
always done in the past, but times are changing.
Who would've thought that one day you could electrically strop
an edge? I sure didn't. The world of electric knife sharpening
has come a very long way. Some electric knife sharpeners
are quite remarkable. Many of the high priced sharpeners are
equipped with their own stropping abrasives. How about that?
It's true. All it takes is over $50 to a few hundred dollars to
get a fantastic electric sharpener that'll both sharpen and strop
your edges for you. Just like that. Yes, I know. It seems like an
awful lot of money for just an electric knife sharpener. But if
you've got the means and don't care to diddle with it, electric
knife stropping is surely possible now. It is entirely up to you.
Let's make one point very clear. Stropping is not sharpening.
It isn't, really. But stropping with a polishing compound or an
abrasive compound sure is. When you do this, when you add
such a compound to the strap, the stropping has now become
its own form of sharpening. Now that it's able to remove
metal from the edge, it has become a sharpener. All by itself,
however, the strap can do no more than strop an edge. Therein
lies the difference.
For fine knife sharpening, stropping is always the last step. It
is done after absolute sharpness has been achieved. It makes
each knife edge as fine as it can be. They will shine and shine.
Isn't that special?
8
Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who
strives to protect the natural world. If you would like to learn
about ▪ Knife Sharpening: How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain
and Store Them ▪ Sharpening Devices, Tests for Sharpness,
Steeling and more ▪ Sharpening Other Edges (i.e. Chain Saws,
Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes) Find it Here at
www.MakeKnivesSharp.com
Editor's Note: Read Chef's Choice Knife
Sharpener review here.
Using Manual Knife
Sharpeners
Article Source: http://www.hobbyarticledirectory.com
Our grandfathers used manual sharpeners for all their knives
and cutting tools for years and decades. Some of them had
the skill to sharpen a knife's blade to perfection, creating
a razor sharp blade that could cut everything in its way.
These sharpening techniques were not easy to learn, and they
actually take a lot of time to put into practice. To sharpen a
knife with manual, round knife sharpener, you need a lot of
time and patience.
The round knife sharpener is the simplest type there is, but it
is still popular in home use. Using an electric knife sharpener
simply doesn't fit to some people and they feel they have
everything they need already. There is something calming in
the knife sharpening process and this is also one of the reasons
people don't want to finish it quickly. Electric sharpener does
the job right, but sometimes that is not enough.
To use a manual knife sharpener, you have to use your skills
much more then with electric one. You're gonna need strength
and focus to sharpen your knife correctly. The round knife
sharpener is made out of stainless steel and has a handle for
you to grab on it. The handle is usually made out of wood or
plastic. To sharpen your knife, you have to slide your cutting
tool against the stainless steel with a force. More force you
apply, more effective your knife sharpening is. But with more
force, you can lose the traction and miss the angle you want
to achieve.
This is why you need to have patience and focus on what you
are doing. You don't want ti make a mistake and slide your
knife in unwanted direction. Because your knife will move fast
and strong, you have to be careful not to overdo it and lose
control.
If you think this is too much to handle, you are probably an
electric knife sharpener person. Lots of other people avoid
manual sharpeners for that reason too. You will definitely need
time to learn proper manual knife sharpening.
Other thing that comes as a minus for these sharpeners is
their price. Some of them can cost a lot more than 50 bucks,
which is quite interesting. For this kind of money, you can
find electric one and save yourself some time and hassle with
learning how to sharpen a knife with round knife sharpener.
Of course, there are always cheaper manual sharpeners that
you can find and we do recommend them instead of the pricey
ones. If you really want a round knife sharpener, you don't
need to have expensive, fancy one.
Some of the good ones you could use are Tablecraft, Mundial,
Cerafuse, Victorinox and Butcher. You can find some great
prices with Tablecraft but if you want a fancy, diamond honed
knife sharpener, you will find it quite easily for a higher price.
At the end of the day, it is your decision and you will decide
what to do with your time and sharpening skills. Electric knife
sharpeners are easier to use and you'll learn to use them much
faster. But there is that strange attraction in a round knife
sharpener and its old ways of work, so if that's your cup of tea,
then go for it.
To find a bit more about round knife sharpener and electric
Chef's Choice sharpeners, visit our knife sharpeners blog.
Editor's Note: Read Chef's Choice Knife
Sharpener review here.
Chef's Choice M130
Professional Knife-Sharpening
Station, Platinum (Kitchen)
tagged "electric knife
sharpeners" 5 times
August 26th, 2008
Chef's Choice M130 Professional Knife-Sharpening Station,
Platinum (Kitchen)
By Chef's Choice
Buy new: $128.49 Customer Rating:
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sharpener(24), chefs choice(13), sharpeners(12), knife(10),
small electrics(6), electric knife sharpeners(5), sharpner(3),
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2006, chefs choice m130 - knife sharpner
Chef's Choice M130
Professional Sharpening
Station, White (Kitchen)
tagged "electric knife
sharpeners" 6 times
December 13th, 2009
Chef's Choice M130 Professional Sharpening Station, White
(Kitchen)
By Chef's Choice
Buy new: $126.78
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Chef's Choice 110

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times
December 24th, 2008

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(Kitchen)
By Chef's Choice
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