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8/13/2014

Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Surely it's happened to you: a fellow in your lifemaybe a buddy, perhaps a boyfriendasks
you for wardrobe help. As he should, of course, since you're stylish, chic, and perfectly put
together. But just because you've figured out your own look doesn't mean you can instantly
assemble his. Menswear is its own beast, which is why we've compiled this styling and
shopping guide for you.

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From where a tie should hit to most important thing to know when buying a suit, we've got
tips and tricks galore from some of the most influential fashion insiders. Read on for our
crash course in dressing dudes; we promise you'll learn something (or at least be entertained).

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Meet The Experts


1. Ilaria Urbinati: Stylist (dresses Armie Hammer, Bradley Cooper, and more). She's also
the co-owner of LA's beloved menswear store Confederacy.
2. Jenny Ricker: Stylist (dresses Joseph Gordon Levitt, Zac Ephron, Aaron Paul).
3. Will Welch: Senior Editor, GQ
4. George Esquivel: Designer, Esquivel Shoes and creative director, Tumi.

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5. Estee Stanley: Stylist (dresses James Marsden, Vince Vaughn, and Luke Wilson, and
many others). She's also an interior designer, editor-at-large forDomaine, and co-creator
of HomeMint with Justin Timberlake.

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Sneakers

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The key here is to keep it simple. "If you are down to spend a chunk of cash, try Common
Projects," GQ's Welch says. (Urbinati agrees, though she suggests the classic low-top in
white, while Welch prefers gray.) For less pricey options, classicJack Purcells or Chuck
Taylors will work.

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Dress Shoes

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Oxfords are the name of the game here: Urbinati likes Ferragamo for a dressiershoe, while
Ricker goes for a thrify thrill. "Mr. B's x Aldo has well-made broguesthat won't break the
bank," she says. Esquivel recommends a leather-sole suede shoe because it works for both
casual and dress-casual situations.

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Ankle Boots
"Boots are a choose-your-own-adventure situation," Welch says. "Stylistically speaking, do
you identify more with a construction worker, an architect, or apunk?"

Bonus Suggestions
"A pair of white Adidas Rod Lavers (with either blue or green accents) is sort of the GQ goto." Will Welch

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"I love Rachel Comey's casual tan lace-ups in the summer with no socks and rolled up
chinos." Ilaria Urbinati

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Raw Denim

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"Every dude should have a slim, raw jean he can break in himself like a big boy--none of this
faux broken-in business," Urbinati says, and our other experts agree. While Urbinati and
Stanley like A.P.C.'s timeless raw denim ("No matter if you're tall, thin, short, or stocky-their fit is amazing," Stanley says."), Esquivel and Welch both swear by Baldwin Denim's
medium rise, slim fitting The Henley Jean.

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Classic Denim
The classics are always good, too. "If you want to look great and like you know what's up,
but you kind of hate it when people ask you about your clothes, go with Levi's 511s," Welch
says. "You can buy three pairs in blue, black, and white for less that what all these denimnerd brands are charging."

Bonus Suggestions:

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"J Brand's Kane Jean is the perfect slim-straight jean." Ilaria Urbanati

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

"J Brand's Tyler Jean is not-too-skinny slim jean for guys with long, lean legs." Ilaria
Urbanati
"Whether his style is preppy, rocker, or classic, he can never go wrong with a vintage
Levi 501." Estee Stanley

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"Nudie Jeans Co.'s dark denim is best for dressing up an otherwise casual look." Jenny
Ricker

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While khakis sound awfully fratty, there are apparently some cool chinos out there. "Dockers,
which used to be a punchline--shorthand for slouchy, pleated American style--has introduced
a fit called the Alpha that's very tapped into what stylish guys are wearing now," Welch says.

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

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Urbinati recommends Gant as well as Shipley & Halmos for chinos, while Ricker likes J.
Crew's broken-in slim fit and classic versions.

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Bonus Suggestions
"Other favorites are Unis, RRL, and an amazing Italian brand called Closed. Closed does
really great slim cargo pants too." Will Welch

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"Rag & Bone chinos are a must! So good in classic khaki or navy." Estee Stanley

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Denim Jacket

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A classic jean jacket is a must-have for Ricker and Stanley. "It should be a staple in every
man's wardrobe," Stanley says.

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Leather Jacket

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Just like the ladies, a well-dressed man needs a leather jacket. "Everyone from Schott, who made
the Perfecto jacket that Joey Ramone wore, to Saint Laurenthas insanely badass versions," Welch
says.

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Bomber Jacket
Urbinati likes a bomber, specifically either a Gucci's leather version for colder days, and
a cotton or lightweight option for warm weather. "It's usually best to go down a size on a
bomber, as it should look slightly shrunken," Urbinati says. "If it's even a little too big, the
look is ruined."
Bonus Suggestions:
"An unstructured blazer is also a staple to have to for those last minute garden party
situations." Jenny Ricker

"I love a Diesel leather jacket; I go for the simplest ones with no bells or whistles." Ilaira
Urbinati

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"A good all-around jacket that is available from all brands, in many price points, is the utility
jacket." George Esquivel

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Fit

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When it comes to suits, our experts agree: the jacket has to fit perfectly, or else you might as
well stay home. "The shoulders of the jacket need to hit right at the peak of your shoulders
and hug them snugly," Welch says. "If the shoulders don't fit you perfectly, you've got the
wrong size, and no amount of tailoring is going to fix it." Everything else--specifically, the
body and the sleeves--can be easily adjusted to fit.

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Style

Bonus Suggestions:
"Have your tailor nip the jacket in at the sides to give you broad shoulders and a slender
waist. You're not supposed to say this in terms of men's clothes, but eff it--that V shape is
how you get what's known as sex appeal." Will Welch

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Style-wise, Urbinati votes for Burberry's slim two-button suits in gray (the most versatile)
or navy, but also suggests trying something in a color like burgundy orgreen. Once a suit's
been picked, make sure that sleeve length is perfect. Welch says the jacket shouldn't cover up
any of your hand at all, so you'll show approximately -inch of shirt cuff, while Urbinati
prefers a -inch of shirt to show. Also worth noting: material. "The big thing is dressing
seasonally," Welch says. "You don't have suits you wear year-round; you have three fallweight suits and three summer-weight suits. It just makes sense."

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"My pet peeve is a too-long jacket--the old rule of putting your arms straight down and being
able to curve your palm around the bottom of the jacket is dated. It should come up higher
than that." Ilaria Urbinati

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Fit

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Just like with suit jackets, finding a dress shirt that fits a fellow's shoulders perfectly is
imperative. The neck must fit properly too; sleeve length and the width of a shirt can be
easily tailored, the rest, not so much. Also pay attention to the collar. Welch likes a smaller
collar: "Preferably a semi-spread, which means it's not just the classic point collar with tips
pointing down at your shoes, but it's not an outrageous spread collar that makes you look like
a Wall Street wannabe.

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

Shopping & Suggestions


Welch likes Hamilton or Sid Mashburn, while Urbinati likes Dior Homme (inwhite or pale
blue) for "smaller dudes," and Dolce & Gabbana for a slim-fit shirtthat works on a bigger
build. Less expensive options abound too. Topshopmakes some Urbinati-approved options,
while Ricker suggests J. Crew and Esquivel recommends Uniqlo's affordable slim-fit shirt.

"Make sure the collar isn't too big or too pointy--that's the quickest way to look dated." Will
Welch

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Bonus Suggestions:
"For most shirts, I usually have the tailor add darts in the back to slim the torso--especially
for broad shoulders." Ilaria Urbinati

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

"My advice is to opt for the cheaper shirt, and spend a little extra to have it tailored to fit
perfectly. It will assure you look like a million bucks without having to overspend." Jenny
Ricker

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"Always white or periwinkle blue and 100% cotton--never silk!" Estee Stanley

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

The perfect t-shirt is an elusive thing, but start your hunt at Gents. "They make that '50s
James Dean/Marlon Brando cut--shorter in the body and the sleeve," Urbinati says.

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Welch also likes tees with a shorter arm, specifically ones by Ralph Lauren Black Label
Denim, which he calls the perfect pocket t-shirt. "The colors are really inky--they look almost
wet," he says. For less rarified options, he also like J. Crew'spocket tees in washed out colors.
Also affordable: Urbinati's favorite crewneckfrom Alternative Apparel. As for colors, make
sure he has the staples: black, white, navy, and gray.

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Bonus Suggestions:
"If you're a little more fashion-y, try James Perse, who makes a really great jersey crewneck
tee." Will Welch

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"Todd Snyder makes good tees in colors that read cool and vintage." Ilaria Urbinati

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Definitive Guide on How to Style Your Guy

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Bonus Suggestions:
"A black leather belt with silver hardware and chocolate leather belt with antique gold
hardware are no brainers." Estee Stanley

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Much like with socks (more on that in a minute), a casual belt can show a little personality.
"This is a great place to add a pop of color: green, blue, or red," Urbinati says. Or if you're
feeling like really showing some summertime flair, Welch allows that a ribbon belt with a
ring buckle is a good option for seersucker pants, Bermuda shorts, or khakis. "It's a preppy
staple, but you don't have to look like your mother is a Tom-Collins-addicted bottle-blond
named Miffy who summers on the Cape," he says. "It'll also look cool in Arizona, or
Louisiana, or St. Paul." For a dressy option, Ricker recommends a leather belt from Hermes.
"It's a little more expensive," she says. "But it's also reversible, so you're getting two belts for
the price of one."

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Length and Width

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When it comes to ties, our experts agree: it should graze the top of the pants. Width, on the
other hand, is up for debate. Urbinati says the width of the tie should be in proportion to the
lapel of the suit jacket. Ricker thinks it's more about the guy's build, meaning broader men do
better in wider ties, slimmer men in skinny ties. Welch and Stanley both think a tie that's 2 inches at its widest is ideal.

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Shopping & Suggestions

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As for brands, Urbinati likes Rag & Bone, Band of Outsiders, Burberry, J. Lindeberg,
and Gentry. If you're on the hunt for something a little more obscure but equally awesome,
Welch suggests Alexander Olch ties.

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Bonus Suggestions:
"You should have some cotton ties for when it's hot out and wooly ties for when it's cold."
Will Welch

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"I love the selection at Barneys. They have ties ranging from playful to conservative and
from $50-$500." Jenny Ricker

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Having a strong sock game is just one more way a fellow has of showing his sartorial
abilities, so finding the right ones is imperative. With all the shorter hems on trousers these
days, it's nice to have something to show off, like a thinor thick stripe, floral,
or gingham print Urbinati says. If a statement sock isn't for you or you're simply looking for a
simple dress sock option, try Calvin Klein, which Urbinati swears are affordable and super
soft. Ricker also likes hand-made socks from British brand Pantherella.

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Bonus Suggestions:
"The best socks I've ever purchased are Falke from Douglas Fir in Los Angeles. They always
have a great selection." George Esquivel

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"I hear Happy Socks is good for colors and patterns and getting your footwear ya-yas out."
Will Welch

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