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Utility jackets: S/S 15 men's commercial update

By Ben Perdue, WGSN, 02 April 2014
Premium Americana updates, sharpened-up outdoors influences and uniform styling are the important
stories across this functional outerwear category.
WGSN ANALYSIS

"Four-pocket fieldjacket styling is having
a huge influence on
functional pieces, from
authentic-feeling
outdoors jackets to
smarter motorbike
jacket-inspired shapes
that are perfect for
smart-caual styling,
and even workwear
blazers are being
updated with this
strong military detailing
trend."
"Suede is the
important premium
update here in terms
of fabrics, bringing a
high-end level to
classic hard-wearing
Americana items such
as the reworked denim
rider jacket."
"While colour remains
functional throughout,
with an emphasis on
military greens and
blues, brighter
statement shades are
also coming through
with an unexpected
feel that's perfect for
the younger end of the
market."

Dior Homme spring/summer 2014 campaign

Sara Maggioni
Senior Editor, What's in
Store, WGSN

Suede two-pocket
The denim rider jacket gets a luxury makeover in suede for spring/summer, creating a premium
workwear-inspired look that maintains the signature styling and hard-wearing qualities while focusing on
high-end texture and fashion-led colours too. Classic two-pocket detailing at Louis Vuitton is combined
with a more boxy silhouette as well as an unexpected shade of light blue, reinforcing the season's new
approach to traditional Americana.
©WGSN 2014

updated with luxury leathers and tonal black hardware.Suede jacket by Louis Vuitton Suede jacket by Tom Ford Suede jacket by Louis Vuitton Zara spring/summer 2014 Biker Still popular as a vintage-inspired core item. providing a simple military-inspired alternative with the same familiar and practical vintage feel. where it is an important piece for looks that overlay elements of styling lifted from select subcultures. This key combination of tough. the classic Perfecto-like biker jacket spans the youth end of the market. racing functionality with high-end fabrics is something that Belstaff continues to explore this season. ©WGSN 2014 . but updates such as the rounded drawstring collar seen at Visvim help lend traditional four-pocket styling a more contemporary edge. and at the more premium-feeling end. the lightweight field jacket is a strong commerciallooking contender to replace the field anorak. Zara spring/summer 2014 Belstaff spring/summer 2014 Biker by Saint Laurent Eleven Paris spring/summer 2014 Field jacket Shifting focus back to more authentic outdoors looks. Uniform-inspired colours and details are important.

Colours follow suit. Pitti Uomo spring/summer 2014 Smart dispatch rider This sharper take on four-pocket functionality. but that look smart with tailoring or premium denim. the design of these utility inspired jackets again looks to military uniforms for styling pointers.Deluxe spring/summer 2014 Gant Rugger spring/summer 2014 Visvim spring/summer 2014 WGSN street shot. The introduction of red at Bally this season also takes colour in a less familiar direction. Marni's larger 3D pockets this season update traditional outdoors styling with a sharper. ranging from sandy neautrals to inky blues. merging military utility with vintage motorbike jacket styling. ©WGSN 2014 . more contemporary look. Longer lines and drawstring waists create a sharpened-up. adopting safari-like flap pockets and collars with practical storm tabs. uniform-like fitted silhouette. Tommy Hilfiger Tailored lookbook spring/summer 2014 HE by Mango spring/summer 2014 Tommy Hilfiger Westcoasting lookbook spring/summer 2014 Bally spring/summer 2014 Utility blazer Important on a commercial level becuase it balances functional styling with the casual appeal of unstructured blazers. responds well to the growing demand for smart-casual outerwear items that have a practical feel.

with extra or mismatched pockets or tab-fastenings – such as those seen at Customellow this season – helping to emphasise the practical roots of this trend. Functional detailing is important here. Paris Fashion Week. July 2013 Smart workwear jacket This functional take on the Harrington updates basic workwear inspiration by combining a simple silhouette and minimalist styling with more exciting print and colour ideas. The use of jungle stripes on outerwear at APC lends classic camouflage a lighter. driving both the retro midtones and geometric patterns being used to sharpen up these essential collared jacket shapes. lightweight bombers and traditional battledress blouses. incorporating Airforce-like shades of grey-blues alongside deeper inky shades of indigo. Bread & Butter Berlin. Subtle vintage influences are also important here. ©WGSN 2014 . Ben Sherman spring/summer 2014 Orley spring/summer 2014 APC spring/summer 2014 WGSN street shot. this military-inspired direction looks to uniform colours as well as styling. seasonal feel. June 2013 Uniform jacket Merging elements of workwear jackets.Toast spring/summer 2014 Marni spring/summer 2014 Customellow spring/summer 2014 WGSN street shot.

the chore jacket has been rethought and shrunken for spring/summer.Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2014 WGSN street shot. Paris Fashion Week. WGSN street shot. July 2013 July 2013 ©WGSN 2014 . where a lot of workwear influences are to be expected. June 2013 Chore jacket Very big at this season's Bread & Butter trade show in Berlin. These new proportions bring it in line with the traditional French utility jacket. but key styling details such as the contrast corduroy collar help it maintain its Americana character. Mauro Grifoni spring/summer 2014 July 2013 WGSN street shot. Bread & Butter Berlin. Milan Fashion Week. Bread & Butter Berlin. Bread & Butter Berlin. Customellow spring/summer 2014 June 2013 WGSN street shot. Mauro Grifoni reworked the chore jacket in denim this season as an alternative to the usual duck canvas. WGSN street shot.