TODAY’S

WOODWORKER
1989 - Issues 1-6

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Volume 1, Number 1

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Volume 1, Number 2

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Volume 1, Number 3

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Volume 1, Number 4

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Volume 1, Number 5

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MarchIApril 1989

·WOODWOR
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Yesterday's Woodworker Tools and tips for those ready to try hammer veneering. The wood is very similar to ash in grain appearance.WOODWORKER' PROJECTS. but more limited in availability. Jones . The largest stands today are in Missouri and Arkansas. micro adjustments on the tablesaw. I have found sassafras to be a great wood for chip carving and turning but I'm not aware of any extensive use of it in this manner. Richard O. the wood was used in the manufacture of juvenile furniture -especially from the 1880s through the 1920s. as with all wood dust. Sassafras is usually light yellow.perhaps motivated by folklore claiming that the scent was a deterrent to childrens' nightmares. Traditionally. knockdown version argues strongly that there is indeed. Roots and underlying bark are used to distill an oil used in flavoring candy. What's in Store Sam Maloof's new line of finishes and Contour Sanding Grips. sassafras is generally not used in large volumes. Some question as to carcinogenic properties have been raised in recent years but not proven. 2 3 4 6 16 Bentwood Curio Shelf By Bill RockIer If you've yet to discover an easy technique for getting into bending wood. Today's Shop Roger Cliffe considers bad vibrations in the shop. protection is a good idea. Reader's Gallery A new department. Tricks of the Trade A miniature woodturning section chuck. Sassafras bears an aromatic herb-like odor which is substantially reduced in kiln drying. and much more. 20 21 18 Wedge Tenon Magazine Rack By Jack Holmberg The author highlights one very popular type of decorative joinery and presents three jigs that should find a permanent place in the shop. 22 23 24 (Photography by Scott Jacobson) r Today's Wood Sassafras: Can it really prevent nightmares? On the Level Your comments on the first issue. Since the 1930s the wood has been chiefly used as a drawer siding in dresser bureaus. 8 TIPS A N D TECHN I Q U ES New Life For The Classic Armoire By Bruce Kieffer Is there a place for this classic piece of furniture in today's home? The author's multiple use. here's the project for you. There are still manufacturers who separate sassafras from ash for this purpose today. works generally easier but is not as strong. but some trees yield a greenish yellow color. as a scent in soap and for folk medicines. Sassafras is priced in the same range as ash. Tea made from sassafras bark and roots has been used as a substitute for imported tea for years. tending toward reddish brown. • TODAY'S WOOD Sassafras (sassafras albidum) Due to limited growth. Finishing Thoughts Jerry TerHark extolls the virtues of two unexpected home remedies. featuring the work of our own John Goff. Hardware Hints Spence Cone kicks off this new department by covering the installation of European hinges.

New departments for now include Hardware Hints (page 6) and Reader's Gallery (page 24).I . Bolay Oak Harbor. $13 . I was very impressed! Your magazine compares very favorably with the best woodworking magazines presently available. On The Level. Rogers.S. $4. Medium to advanced projects are great. Rogers. It's rather slim but then it contains all "mea t" with no advertising to clutter it up. F. And what do you all think? For starters. What's In Store. I take about 7 other woodworking magazines and often I don't find anything in an issue of interest. I enjoyed my first issue.S. \ . lowing ALL safety precautions while in ' the shop. . Subscribers are welcome to s[. the absence of advertisements appears to be universally appealing.. Good luck with the future of Today's Woodworker! Nathan L. thanks for all your suggestions and ideas.MN 55374. Today's Woodworker is a trademark of Rockier Press.. JIM EBNER pirector 0/ Marketing VAL E. and have won a longtime subscriber! Gary R. but a true woodworker's nightmare. The article on "dyes versus stains" was very informative and I found the plans for the wall bookshelf intriguing . Today's Shop. The emphasis on woodworking techniques. Your idea to run a "REPRO" department also interests me as I just finished a "repro" of a china cabinet found in JC Penny's catalog as a present to a friend of mine.. ' Single cppy price.I plan to build it. A higher than expected subscription response (thanks!) means we can afford to add four new pages and a protective cover to your new magazine.ON THE LEVEL . You have set a standard for others to try to match. Projects like the Family Bookshelf are too easy Finally. Schenfield Centerville. Box 44. to the editor: Today's Woodworker. Wisconsin . Number 2 • LARRY N. July. Second class postage paid at Rogers. my tastes are probably somewhat above that. TODAY'S WOODWORKER MARCHI APRIL 1989 Keep Those Letters Coming Werre overwhelmed and delighted by the number of letters that have arrived since the premiere issue of Today's Woodworker "hit the street". $3. currercy). I am a consummate wooden toy maker so I'd like to see some toy plans sprinkled in with some of your future issues. Dan Pugliese Irving. Again. and the free plans I got as my bonus offer are first rate. detailed format.15/ 16" oak may be available in your local lumber yard. William Hart Indialantic. the sources of supply a welcome addition. March. currency -Canada and other countries). Box 44. how about being more realistic on some of the sizes . November) by Rockier Press. Copy·right 1989.S . how about an article on how to estimate total material required using the common material list. All righls reserved. STOIAKEN Editor NANCY EGGERT Production Manager JOHN KELLIHER Art Director STEVE HINDERAKER Associate Art Director JEFF JACOBSON Teclmiced IUustrator GORDON HANSON Copy Editor • ANN JACKSON Publisher . Florida The premiere issue of Today's Woodworker was received with great interest. and keep those letters coming! (Send yours to "Letters to the Editor". by Rockier Press.50.irculation Mal/ager • NORTON ROCI<LER RICK WHITE PAUL THOMS VERN BURN~ JACK HOLMBERG Editp~ial Advisors . the three projects hold no interest for me. yours will be one of the quality woodworking magazines. Today's Woodworker recommen'ds fol. Collins Webster. I've taken some slides and will submit them soon. your projects are well laid out and Tricks of the Trade and Finishing Thoughts are helpful departments. One year subscription price.95 (U. CLIFFE JOHN GOFF JERRY T. V. I was more than pleasantly surprised.Jbmit their project proposals. Needless to say. Copyright 1989. I presume my skill level would be classified as intermediate.) j ti'~ NJ/it~ • I've subscribed to a few other so-called "woodworker's" magazines and have been terribly disappointed They were an advertisement junkie's paradise. Hill Metamora. MN 55374.. .. I do have two suggestions: First. and be expanded if possible. everyone seems to agree. Texas I enjoyed the first issue of your magazine. Postmaster: Please send change of 'address to Today's Woodworker. but not in 99% of the rest of the country I do like your magazine and its format -keep it up! James L. $18 . when I received my first issue of "Today's Woodworker". May. . but I'd like to suggest the following changes: Cut or minimize Today 's Wood. Unfortunately. Cont1ilmti?lg Edito~s • Today's Woodworker. RdGER W. Rogers. Ohio The project illustrations in your first issue are a joy.1989 Volume 1. Ohio Overall. Keep up the good work and include more of the excellent project ideas like the first three. should continue. (ISSN: 10418'113) is published· bimonthly (January.For purposes of clarity. 'illustrations and photos are sometimes shown without proper protective guards in place. Second. Linda K. Texas I have received the first issue of Today's Woodworker and I am impressed I have subscribed to many woodworking magazines over the years and like your no advertising. Calendar and Yesterday's Woodworker. MarchIApril. Michael Wood Huffman. Illinois If subsequent issues measure up to Number 1. (Canada and other co'untries. MN 55374. Rogers. Send new ·subscriptions to the attention of the circulation department. tips and techniques. MN 55374-0044. Box 44. itrs a mixed bag -excerpts appear below. GERSTING C. TERHARK . MN 55374. Beyond that. September. and possessions).. Todayrs Woodworker.75 in U.95 (U. What I primarily want are more projects like the Rolling Tool Center and Rotating End Table. . and at addijional mailing oHices .

!. drill and secure. California used.. Tung oil has a tendency to gel when Drill a hole in the end of the broken the new tenon will remain as tight in the can is half empty. that all air is forced out and the tenon Often micro adjustments are necessary on the table saw for snug-fitting socket is full. simcause the spindle to split when the screw is driven in. As the San Diego.. spacers of equal thickness could be removed or inserted for finger/box joints or spacing for dados and grooves. Colorado mately half way down in the tenon socket when the spin• dIe is placed back in its origiA Real Hand-Rubbed Finish nal position. With the rip fence and auxiliary fence bolted together make the initial rough cut allowing a slight amount of extra width for your workpiece. The solution I've come up with is to make an auxiliary fence (same length as rip fence or longer to extend fence length) of laminate covered particle board that can be bolted to the table saw rip fence (or router table fence). loosen the wing nuts... ~ ish is desired.. when a real "hand rubbed" finto 1/8" from the top. Filbeck of glass marbles in your shop. A simple trick I spindle that is the same diameter as the socket as a glued joint. etc. A good rubbing oil is Immediately submerge the --+-. Drive in the screw until the Rich Johnson pan head is located approxiDenver. Linda K..u:~~L_ _ . Tighten the wing nuts and repeat the rip cut.l. Keeping the rip fence locked in position. MARCHI APRIL 1989 TODAY'S WOODWORlillR .) Wipe off any excess that is squeezed Here's the procedure: Using the same size of spur or out as soon as the piece is clamped forstner bit as the broken tenon.-_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _+ parafine based and a common 40 pan head into the auto body weight parafine based (economy oil) filler with a twisting motion to insure Micro Adjustments on the Tablesaw will work if regular rubbing oil is not available._ _ _ _ _ TR ICKS OF THE TRADE Quick Fixes and Micro Adjustments Tenon~ achieve a smooth edge and precise width. Felt back blackboard erasers work very well as applicators for rotten Mix a very small batch of auto body filler (I use Bonstone and oil and/or pumice stone and doTM) and fill the socket 1/16" ~ water. (Drilling a hole too small will level in your tung oil can drops. The auto body filler material does out the broken tenon from the socket Stretching Tung Oil not shrink when it cures. Arizona • r.. learned to prevent this is to keep a jar the minor diameter of the screw to be Russell C.. With the use of a dado blade and threaded rods in place of the bolts. (See instrucstrong method of repairing those that tions on the container of filler material break at the spindle's tenon shoulder. Ohio Quick-fix for Broken Spindles I often have to repair broken spindles in its socket and lightly clamp into on end tables.) +-----------~_r-----+ ply add these marbles to raise it back to the top. chairs.. and have position until the auto body filler has discovered a very quick and very had time to fully cure... Bolay Oak Harbor. adding spacers until the exact width of the workpiece is achieved.. for cure time and mixing procedure. Don Kinnaman Position the other end of the spindle joints or for trim (finish) cuts to Phoenix. and insert spacers (playing cards notched to slip over each bolt) between the table saw fence and the auxiliary fence . therefore. and clean the sawdust from the hole.

When selecting material for your chuck body. or possibly two all and then inserted the dowel rod in "Ls" connected together. just enough to accommodate the hose clamps.. Tablesaw Outfeed Table The section chuck incorporates the A very simple and removable outfeed use of a tight fitting center cup waxed table for your tablesaw can be built with Carnuba to allow for smoother using rollers in a frame and a steel fitting dowels. 1 use my wooden section chucks all the time. Try a "U" tuning. 1 started the building angle. Cartwright Columbus. (I used a 5/16" x 18 threaded insert. 1 use my Food Saver™ to vacuum seal and preserve the glue. The overall best way to attach a length of steel to length was not so critical until final the rear of your tablesaw. Dept. This will allow easy on and off application of the section vise. This should leave a 1/4" wall steel angle on the table saw. until the nail hits the rod.) Now. bore the end the underside front of the outfeed grain of the dowel rod out to a depth table. Minnesota made only 4 cuts..) Drill a 7/16" hole at the exact center point (this is critical) and tap the insert into the wood. the top of the steel angle the chuck.00 for all Tricks of the Trade published. The depth of the hole was 3/4". 1 came up with a chuck that would allow me to }-. select tight.get the same control as if 1 had the tail stock attached. to seal the grain and make for smoother workings. 1 St. Send yours to Today's Woodworker. 1 prefer Birch. or an "L". Paul. bored end. 1 don1t use the glue on a daily basis. 5/16" x 18 Hanger Bolt Ell . Tim M. leaving 8 sections or "fingers".. TIT. the outfeed table securely in position After the hole is bored. MN 55374. (To make sure of your should be about 3/4" below the sur. Box 44. The next step was to drill 1/16" relief holes at the end of each finger to permit "spring" in the wood. Cocobolo is especially nice.. California TODAY'S WOODWORKER MARCHI APRIL 1989 used a 3/8" straight router bit to make two small grooves in the fingers across the grain. 1 Storing Your Hot Hide Glue moved over to the router table and Like my friend John Goff. The slots 1 made were only 1/16" deep. To keep my glue from spoiling after 1 mix a batch in my one pint mason jars. Concalo Alves and Osage Orange also are excellent woods to use. of the legs. 1 finished the chuck with hot liquid Danish Wax.. and enjoy making different sizes. Rogers.A Miniature Woodturning Section Chuck for Your Lathe This chuck was designed to eliminate the need for "tail stock usage" during fine ornamental and miniature wood turning. After the fingers were cut. Start by determining the was 11/4 " in diameter. for the same reason. This allows hose clamps to sit flush and tighten the fingers around the work piece. This groove will overlap the of 13/4'1. 1 needed a device that would allow me to get full 360 0 access to the project without the tail stock interfering with my cut. These cuts were 13/4 11 long Bruce Kieffer using a 1/16th inch thick blade. The illustration shows the basic process by finding a dowel rod that construction.---'. Ohio Today's Woodworker pays $30.accuracy take a finishing nail and face of the saw1s table. and Cocobolo. After careful trial and error.. 1 then finished sizing the dowel rod to an exact length of 41/2 " on a disc sander. The last step is to drill for the threaded insert that will attach the chuck to your faceplate. closed grain woods. This technique removes the oxygen from the jar and the sealed lid allows me to refrigerate the prepared glue. When my drill press vise directly centering attached. and positioned insert it in the chuck of the drill-press. and hold around the dowel rod. 1 was pleased with the expensive newer "Multi Collet Chucks" but not too thrilled with the price. however. Cut a fairly deep groove on using a 1" Forstner bit. for it has a degree of bend to the fingers that will make your chuck last longer. each measuring about 3/8" wide. (see Yester- • day's Woodworker. These small holes will insure that the chuck lasts longer by allowing the fingers to bend easily with the pressure of the hose clamps. January/February 1989) 1 too appreciate the use of hot hide glue. Maple.. Then you Build a frame to hold your rollers can position the dowel rod till its cenand put adjustable feet at the bottom ter lines up to the nail head. 1 went to my while you saw. Make a bracket to hold band saw and made a series of slices the outfeed table on the wall when you with the grain over the end of the want it out of the way. 1 then added a 5/16" threaded rod 3/4" long to my faceplate center. to create a ridge for the front of the lower the chuck into the dowel rod outfeed table to ride on. 1 cut the dowel rod to 5" overchannel. Filbeck San Diego. Russell C.

12. If you're using an overlay cabinet design. stretch your tape from the bottom and mark the centers for each hinge. or Options Full Overlay L -_ _ _ _ _ _. Check manufacturer's specs. but European hinges are readily available for this look. Transfer these marks back inside the cabinet with a square (See figure 2). Do not try to measure up from the bottom and down from the top. Likewise. they work with virtually any style of furniture. pick between a 'Free Swing ' or 'Self Close ' hinge. great adjustability and. the mounting plate and the hinge assembly. There are also varying degrees of hinge openings available from 90 0 to 180 0 • Pick the one that best suits your door's application.-_ _ _ _ HARDWARE H I NTS Installing European Hinges By Spence Cone European concealed hinges seem to be on most of the furniture you see these days -and with good reason. The greater the opening the larger the price tag. if any. inset. On the back of the door. I recommend laying out a stick with the hinge centers on it to use as a template for all the hinge locations. Once these design decisions are made and the cabinet case is built. To insure proper alignment of the plate and hinge assembly. Alignment of these two parts is essential for a proper installation. do not try to convert all the metric measurements given in their instructions into standard. The final thing you need to consider is which one of the three hinge overlay designs each door will require. stretch the tape up the side and mark off the location of each hinge center. the hinge assembly will need to be installed on the back of the door. To insure proper alignment and installation. and what. full. half. since they are concealed. The mounting plate is attached to Anatomy of A Hinge cabinet side Half Overlay cabinet door the inside of the cabinet side or vertical and the hinge assembly is mounted to the back side of the door. Just go out and buy a metric ruler. In most cases this is the bottom of the door and the bottom of the cabinet (See figure 1). most of the manufacturer's specs will be metric. Design Considerations The installation of the concealed hinge must begin in the design stages of your project. Since these hinges are made in Europe.l Degree of opening. limitation of door thickness and clearance exists. If a number of doors are to be hung. but most hinges require a 35mm hole.. A full overlay hinge will overlay the side of the cabinet by up to 3/4". it is time to hang the doors.5mm MARCHI APRIL 1989 TODAY'S WOODWORIillR . but remember that the degree of opening will be reflected in the cost of the hinge. . which are recessed into the cabinet carcass. Making Your Marks When hanging European hinges you must concern yourself with the two different parts on the hinge. Their design allows for easy installation. Inset doors (right). always measure from the common point of both the door and the cabinet. Depending on how your door will stay closed. a half overlay by up to 3/8" and a full inset will set the door flush with the front of the verticals and sides. from the bottom of the cabinet. Once your centers are located. are not as common. Review the specifications of the brand you'd like to use and decide how many hinges will be needed to hang the door in your project.. select full overlay hinges (left) for the ends and half overlay hinges (center) for the middle of a row of cabinets.

Use a square to extend your center mark inside the cabinet wall.to 13mm deep for mounting.€l . always measure from a common point.. If neither of these are available you can make a template for a router. Good Lucle! Fine Tuning Your Installation UP OR DOWN: This adjustment screw controls up and down m. typically the bottom..5mm from the edge of the door. . "e// G" A Simple Template The n~xt part of . Once all doors are in place.: . (See figure 3) set a fence so that the center for the 35mm hole is drilled approximately 20. Now your template is complete. On the drill press. lllstalled IS the mount. Once the hole is drilled in the proper location. Once they're in place.. Measure 16mm up and 16mm down this second line.' When aligning. Match the line scored on your template to the line that marks the center of the hinges.ovement. along the line you just scored. Check the manufacturer's spec for correct distance. try a sample drilling. dimension. insert the hinge asssembly at the centers marked on the door and screw them in place. The number of hinges that you have to install will dictate whether you want to layout the pilot hole locations for each hinge plate screw.5mm to 22. use a Vix Bit to drill a pilot in the back hole of the mounting plate. In the center of the plex.&" <. Go back to your cabinet and line up the scored line on your template to the line you squared back from the front edge of the cabinet (to mark the center of the hinges). Attach this to a 3/4" piece of wood at one end (see illustration above). Repeat this procedure at all hinge locations and screw the mounting plates in place. Use a #5 "Vix Bit" and drill through the two holes in your template (see figure 4). TO DAY'S WOODWORKER MARCHI APRlL 1989 SIDE TO SIDE: This adjustment screw controls side to side movement. ing plate. If you decide to make your own. . side to side if the door opening is out of square. to measure in (from the wood handle). make a template to drill the pilot holes. IN AND OUT: This adjustment screw controls in and out movement. Now you are ready to hang the doors. Check the manufacturer's specs to find the location of the two front screws of the mounting plate. and finish screwing the plate in place. This will give you the maximum overlay of the sides. (approximately 37mm for half and full overlay. At this point draw a second line. Bore these holes on a drill press (or at least use a drill accessory that will insure the squareness of the hole). score a line perpendicular to the wooden strip. start by finding a piece of clear plexiglass that is 1/8" thick. and 55mm for full inset). or break down and buy a ready-made template. / t~e hmge that ~>~S:~ :vIII ne~d to be ~"'. These will need to be screwed to the inside of the cabinet in their proper locations. Use this Use a 35mm boring bit to drill the cup hole for the hinge assembly. 00 .. 3" wide. and 4" long. or better yet. Move the hole for the hinge in as far as possible from the door edge until the hinge binds on the edge when opened. they can be adjusted up and down for uneveness. Slide the hinge assembly onto the mounting plate and lock in place by tightening down the back screw. perpendicular to the first. and in and out if the cabinet is twisted at all. make a mark at both points and drill two 1/4" holes through the plexiglass.

moldings. + r-I.24" . ~ LI-2"radius 1-< \. to create closet space where none existed. both options. Other typical armoire features that I incorporated include drawers." > . The base itself is a simple box. Today many people like armoires because of their dramatic ornate appeal and versatility. with large doors. All You decide how best to employ your armoire .-----~--. Hanging storage and adjustable shelves allow it to function as an extra closet or an entertainment center. the feet of the armoire are created by cutting away waste with the bandsaw. hanging rods and knock down construction to allow for easy transportation. can make for an eye catching piece in virtually any home.wardrobe or entertainment center. the electronic age has come to the rescue. the armoire is the design of choice. What should be done with this large. On my armoire I chose to have the staved top follow th e arch of the crown. These tall cabinets. depending on your need. staved means narrow pieces of wood attached to a form to create a shape. style and charm. By Bruce Kieffer lthough 11m not a furniture historian.>I In the author's design. With my piece. crowns. Keeping all your stereo and video gear on display is old hat. Since closet space is not a problem in most homes today. the drawer casework section.NEW LIFE FOR THE ClASSIC ARMOIRE Full of tradition. Basically. old and new. The use of knock-down fitt ings means it's also easy to move when the need ari ses. furniture designers have had to reconsider the role of the armoire. remain open. classic piece whose original function has become largely outdated? Fortunately. and fancy woods.J 42" T --~~I ~ r-r --------'J~ U2"radius t 4" MARCHI APRIL 1989 T ODAY'S WOODWORIillR . Basic Construction The basic construction of this armoire consists of three sections. The home entertainment center has arrived and in many homes. mitered and glued at the corners. the middle storage section and the top crown section. itls a good bet that armoires were originally used to supplement existing closet space or. thi s modern variation of an old world standard is simple to build. I also felt that the arched crown lent itself to a staved top. II I< ~ . This gives the crown a uniquely finished look. more likely.

It is easiest to fit one edge. so it is necessary to round over the edges of these four pieces with a router while they are still on a wide board.three are constructed separately and then assembled into one cabinet. Now miter and glue those 12 solid edges to the 3 plywood pieces. First. cut the three plywood piec e s (1 & 10) to size.) Nex t. Start With the Base The base is pretty straightforward. Using a bandsaw. make ten 3/4" x 3/4" x 4" cleats and glue them on. It's important to note that two of the pieces (19) and two of the pieces (20) get glued to the side of the top frame . T ODAY'S WOODWORKER MARCHI APRIL 1989 Horizontal Dividers and "Bullnose" Edges The drawer casework bottom and top. Machine the solid pieces for the bullnosed edges (19 & 20). drill hole s through the cleats for the screws that will attach the base to the drawer casework Finish sand the base. glue it and then fit the opposite edge and glue it (See figure 3). they are actually quite simple. Start out by cutting and machining the four solid pieces that make up the base (17 & 18). II scrap wood When working alone. The easiest way to build thi s armoire is to start from the base and work your way up to the crown. The remaining 12 pieces are rounded over after they are applied to the plywood as edge banding. leaving the feet of the base (See figure 1). Drill a hole in each corner block and install the adjustable fe et. I used European hinges. cut away all waste. Set these pieces aside. (NOTE: Before drilling the hole for installing my feet I counters unk each hole approximately 1/2" to reduce visibility. Make four 11/4" x 11/4" x 4" corner blocks for mounting the four adjustable feet and glue them in place. it's best to glue one edge at a time to assure perfect alignment. Although the molding s and staved crown may look difficult to build. along with the middle section top are the same dimensions. three sheets of 3/4" x 4' X 8' Honduras Mahogany A2 plywood. . so I cut them all at the same time. and then cut them off at 3/4" on the table saw. Don't get ahead of yourself and cut too many pieces before you need them. employing mitered corners for the four pieces and corner blocks and cleats for purposes of attachment. Miter the corners that will be glued together. Using scrap material. Don't try to II Cutting bullnose edges is a lot easier if you employ the router before ripping on the tablesaw. Then fit the remaining two edges to get a tight fit. . drawer slides and knock down fittings to make for easy construction and as s embly. (See figure 2). and one 1/2" x 4' x 4' no void Birch plywood for the drawers. one and a quarter sheets of 1/4" x 4' X 8' Honduras Mahogany A2 plywood. Glue and clamp these four pieces together at the miters and allow them to dry. You will need to buy at least 60 board feet of Honduras Mahogany.

finish sand the outside joints where the sides meet the back. Back Panel I'.) Now cut a 1/2" x 1/4" deep rabbet on the inside of the four drawer sides. Set the nail heads. the center divider (3) and the back (5) to size. Cut out the drawer bottoms (13). Layout and drill all the holes for the screws and knock down fittings on these horizontal cabinet dividers. Bullnose Ed g es dIe piece (front only)-and glue them in place.-.Middle Divider 1t+ . putty the holes. Dowel and glue these pieces together. Finish sand these three horizontal cabinet dividers and mount the knock down fittings. bullnose the solid edges that you glued to the plywood panels. (NOTE: Be sure to use different holes on the slides that mount to the drawer casework center so the opposing screws won't interfere with each other. Take the casework bottom and top and align and screw them to the sides. The slightly oversized holes will allow for minor adjustments of the drawer faces once they're attached. Now mount the drawer slides with 3/4" long screws. center divider and back. Using your 1/2" no void Birch plywood. take the base and align and screw it to the underside of the drawer casework section. so take your time with the layout and make sure you have them correct (see elevations. This "pins" the rabbet joints and makes it almost impossible for the joint to fail. cut the pieces for the drawer sides (14) and the drawer fronts and backs (15). MARCHI APRlL 1989 TODAY'S WOODWORlCE R . Nail through the drawer sides into the drawer fronts and backs. Finally. Finish sand both the insides and the outsides of all the pieces for the drawer casework section. now it's time to complete its sides. Use the 1/2" screws provided with the drawer slides. above). ~______________~P~ 0 ~__________~ Concealed Automatic Hinge Baseplate glue more than one piece on at a time because it's too hard to align them with the plywood before the glue sets. With your router setup with a 3/8" round over bit. (NOTE: Test your setup for drilling of the knock down fittings on some scrap wood so you get the proper alignment. Drawer Casework You've just finished machining the top and bottom of the drawer casework. it's now time to make the two drawers and their faces. mount the cabinet members of the drawer slides into the drawer casework section. Drawers and Drawer Faces Continuing with the idea of building this project from the bottom up. Take the two drawer fronts and drill Side Panel - (- J KD Assemb IY FItt ing approximate location four 3/8" holes in each. Start by cutting your two sides (2). (NOTE: Measure and cut the drawer fronts and backs so that the finished drawer is 1/2" plus 1/32" narrower than the opening in the drawer casework. finish sand and nail to the bottom of the front and back of the assembled drawers.Side Panel Front Edge \. 1J \. Now layout and drill your holes for the dowels to attach the sides and the center divider to the back.-.. to attach the drawer faces to the drawers with the screws and washers (43 & 44). Finish sand the insides of the drawers and assemble them with glue and nails. center divider and back.Concealed Free Swing Hinge Baseplate Bottom View Middle Divider Left Side Top Horizontal Divider • • Front Edge @ ® •• • Top View Middle Horizon tal Divider . Machine the five 1/4" solid edging pieces (35) -two for each side piece (front and back) and one for the mid- 24" -15%"- ~10" CD i'. When the glue is dry. and finish sand the outsides of the drawer sides. Next. It's not necessary to nail into the sides since the screws for the drawer slides will serve the same function. directions should be included with the knock down fittings.) Test the fit of the drawers in the drawer casework and make any necessary adjustments.) Each panel will have a different set of holes to drill.

you'll need to cut and machine the four solid pieces that make up the top frame (21 & 22). Start out by machining the solid wood for the side and door stiles and rails (31. I made a template of half of the arch. 32 and 34). Top Frame Remember those four extra bullnose mouldings you cut earlier? (With the horizontal cabinet dividers. slightly increase the depth of your router and make another pass. 10). trace this shape onto the crown back and cut it out as well. on the other hand. Get started by machining the crown front and back (23). I always recommend taking a pair and mounting them on some scrap wood. Be sure you offset the distance you drill in from the front and back edge on each side of the center divider so the shelf pins on the opposing sides don't interfere with each other. This is a safe way to find the proper hole alignments needed to drill for the hinges and baseplates.) Sand the front arch smooth. (NOTE: To get a good "visual" center. which are designed to float in the frames to accommodate expansion and shrinkage. Take a small piece of the 1/4" plywood and test fit the groove. and then flipped it over to draw the other half. Glue these four pieces together at the miters and allow them to dry. Now take the crown sides and cut the bottom edge of each to 30 0 on a tablesaw. Don't glue the panels. Finish sand the doors. and the crown sides (24). It's better to have the fit a little loose. Miter the corners that will be glued together. Finish sand the center divider and mount the knock down fittings.) Middle Section: Sides and Doors Next comes the "guts" of the piece. The bevel for the top edge.Cut the plywood for the drawer faces (4) and the solid drawer face edgings (36 & 37). I drilled my bail holes a little high so the bail would appear to be in the center of the drawer face. Take those four extra bullnosed moldings (19 & 20) and fit and glue them to the outside top face of the top frame. Next layout and drill the holes for the knock down fittings and adjustable shelf pins on the center divider piece (See elevations. Layout your arch (with its 60 0 ends) on the crown front and cut it out with a bandsaw.) Finish sand the completed sides and mount all the required hardware. Set these against the crown front and mark the width and the . layout and drill the holes for the knock down fittings and the electrical wire access. pg. This will be done later. page 10). Dry fit (no glue) and clamp the side and door frames together. since this will assure that the cabinet itself is square. Middle Section: Back and Center Divider It's very important that you cut the back of the middle section square. of the sides.) Here's where they come back into play. There's a considerable amount of drilling and test fitting to do here for both the hinges and knock down fittings. You'll have to round the corners of these panels slightly so they fit the corners created by the slotting cutter. countersinking on the back sides of the drawer faces so they can lay flat on the drawers. Now drill the holes for the brass bail pulls. is determined by drawing a 90° angle to the curve of the crown molding. Final assembly of the middle section takes place after the top and crown work is completed. Take the doors and drill the holes for the hinge cups (45 and 46) and the pendant pulls (47). On the back piece. Carefully cut out the middle section's back and center divider (6 and 9). Finish sand the side and door panels and glue and clamp the frames around the panels. (NOTE: I used my doweling jig with a 1/4" piece of brass tube set in the 1/4" hole so I could center the 3/16" holes required for mounting the hardware. Align and drill the holes for the dowels that will assemble the rails to the stiles. With a 3/16" x 1/2" deep slotting cutter setup in you router. First. Machine the solid edge (40) for the front of the center divider and glue it in place. Miter your solid edging and glue to the drawer faces. (NOTE: To stay symetrical. the knock down fittings (54) and the adjustable shelf pins (55) (See elevations. but if you keep an eye on figure 4 (above) and take your time. Dry fit the sides and doors to make sure that everything goes together properly. Finish sand the top frame and then take the middle section top (10) and screw it to the bottom of the top frame. so for now don't finish sand the edges of the doors. Finish sand the back and carefully mount the knock down fittings. Before you move into the installation of your hinges. Make sure to drill the holes for the screw part of the knockdown fittings on the tops and bottoms TODAY'S WOODWORKER MARCHI APRlL 1989 The bottom edge of the crown sides are cut to a 30° bevel on the tablesaw. however. work your way around the inside of these frames and cut the groove for the 1/4" panels. you'll have no problems. Drill the holes in the sides for the hinge baseplates (45 and 46). Now cut the 1/4" plywood sides and door panels (11 and 12). so procede carefully. The doors still need to be cut down slightly so they fit and operate in the opening of the middle section. the middle section. Crown and Staved Top There's a little fancy angle cutting to be done in this section. If the fit is too tight.

Mahogany) 1/4" X 18114" x 47" (Hond. or double stick tape.MATERIAL LIST PLYWOOD 1 Drawer Casework Top & Bottom (2) TxWx L 3/4" x 24" x 42" (Hond. Mahogany) Door Applied Moldings Sides (4) 1/2" x 3/4" x 36" (Hond. To get the shape of the front and back crown moldings (25). Mahogany) 1/4" x 3/4" x 101 /2"+ (Hond. leaving a flush side for the crown side moldings to be attached to. 1/4" x 16" x 47" (Hond. Mahogany) 3/4" x 24" x 42" (Hond . Mahogany) 3/4" x 401 /2" x 52" (Hond.x 21"+ (Hond. Mahogany) ~5 Crown Applied Molding. Mahogariy) Concealed Hinges. Leave the staves a little long for now so they can be fit to length when the crown is assembled. (NOTE: Since this angle is greater than 45 0 . The next thing to do is bullnose the edges of these moldings. Front & Back (1) 3/4" x 8" x 48" (Hond. Cut the two stave supports (16) from some scrap plywood and machine the sixteen crown stave pieces (27). Free Swinging (2) Blum #230-22". To get the crown side moldings to align properly with the crown front and back moldings. Mahogany) HARDWARE 41 22" European Drawer Runners (2 pairs) 42 Brass Bail Pull (2) 43 #10 x 1" Pan Head Screws (8) 44 3/16" Washers (8) 45 1/4': x 3/4". Doors Blum 165 0 Zero Protrusion Hinge. ~ides (2) Crown Stave Pieces (16) 3/4" x ~/4" x 24"+ (Hond. Doors 47 Brass·Pendant Pull (2) Doors 48 Door Bumpers (4) 49 3/8" x 3" Dowels (32) 50 3/8" x 1112" Dowels (30) Doors 51' #6 x 2" Flat Head Screws (40) 52 13/S" 24" Hanging Rod (1) x 53 54 55 56 Doors & Sides Drawer Casework & Top Drawer Casework & Top Hanging Rod End Holders (1 pair) Middle Section Closet For 13/S" Hanging Rod.) Set the crown sides (24) against the crown front and back (23) and trace the last beveled edge you cut so you can cut away the points on the ends of the crown front and back. Mahogany) 3/4" x 221 /4" x 52" (Hond . Mahogany) 3/4" x 4" x 24" (Hond . Mahogany) 3/4" x 153/4" x 221/4" (Hond. Mahogany) 3/4" x 3114" x 42" (Hond. holding it at an angle to the tablesaw top. Round over the edges with a router set up with a 3/8" MARCH I APRIL 1989 TODAY'S WOODWORIillR . Carefully cut their edges at a slightly inward bevel of about 50. Mahogany) Drawer Face Edging Sides (4) Middle Section Left Shelve Edging (4) 1/4" x 3/4" x 153/4"+ (Hond. you'll need to set a block against the fence of the tablesaw to hold the crown side up. Mahogany) . Mahogany) 1/4" x 22" x 1871s" (Hond . Mahogany) 3/4" x 3/4" x 431 /2"+ (Hond.: makes 4 pcs. yet a third technique is used -one that may serve you well in other projects. use the crown front piece (23) to trace the top of the arch onto the upper part of the board you will cut the moldings from. Using a small amount of hot glue. Middle Section Pin Style' Shelf Supports (28) 1/4" Brass Pin for Middle Section Adjustable Feet (4) Base Corner Blocks bevel cut you'll have to make on the top. Mahogany) 5 Drawer Casework Back (1) 6 Middle Section Back (1) 3/4" x 101/2" X 401/2" (Hond . Mahogany) 1/2" x 91 /2" x 22" (No Void Birch) 1/2" x 91 /2" x 183/8" (No Void Birch) 3/4" x 6" x 42" (Scrap Plywood) 3/4" x 4" x 42" (Hond. Mahogany) Door Stiles & Side Stiles (8) Door Rails (4) 3/4" x 3" x 52" (Hond. Cut this piece out with a bandsaw and finish sand. Now move the crown front piece down 3/4" and trace your second line (the bottom of the arch). Mahogany) Drawer Casework Edging (5) Drawer Face Edging Top & Bottom (4) 1/4" x 3/4" x 101 /2"+ (Hond. Middle Section Knock Down Assembly Fittings (30) Blum. as shown in figure 4. Mahogany) 3/4" x 3114" x 24" (Hond. Leave these moldings a little long so they can be fit to length. Mahogany) 3/4" x 4" x 221 /2" (Hond. Extend the ends of these lines about 11/2" longer since the front and back crown moldings overlap the side crown moldings. Be careful and test this setup on some scrap wood first. Mahogany) Middle Section Center Divider Edging (1) 1/4" x 3/4" x 52"+ (Hond . Mahogany) Door Applied Moldings Curved Tops (1) 1/2" x 4" x 15" (Hond. Repeat the procedure to make the second molding. Cut these two pieces to size on the tablesaw. If you don't feel comfortable using this setup then just hand file and sand this edge to the bevel.: makes 2 pcs. Mahogany) 3 Drawer Casework Center Divider ~1) 4 Drawer Faces (2) 3/4" x 101 /2" X 22114" (Hond. Self Closing (4) 46 Concealed Hinges. Mahogany) 3/4" x 24" x 22114" (Hond. Cut the crown's side edge. Mahogany) Middle Section Right Shelve Edging (3) 1/4" x 3/4" x 24"+ (Hond. Mahogany) 3/4" x 7" x 46" (Hond. Drawers Drawers Drawer Fronts Drawer Fronts Blum 165 0 Zero Protrusion Hinge. Mah. we've employed two techniques to achieve the bullnose look. In this section. layout this bevel and cut it on the tablesaw. Mahogany) 1/2" x 25/S" x 22112" (Hond . Mahogany) 3/4" x 3" x 15" (Hond. affix them to your work table about 2" apart. you need to make one more beveled cut at 90 0 to th e curve of the end of the crown front. Mahogany) 2 Drawer Casework Sides (2) 3/4" x 10112" x 22314" (Hond. Mahogany) 3/4" x 3/4" x 251 /2"+ (Hond. Mahogany) Side Rails (4) 3/4" x 3" x 17114" (Hond .) 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 Crown Applied Molding. Mahogany) Door Stops (2) 3/4" x 11/2" x 4" (Hond. Mahogany) 7 Middle Section Left Shelves (4) 8 Middle Section Right Shelves (3) 9 Middle Section Center Divider (1) 10 tvliddle Section Top (1) 11 Door Panels (2) 12 Side Panels (2) 13 Drawer Bottoms (2) 14 Drawer Sides (4) 15 DraWer Fronts & Backs (4) 16 Stave Supports (2) HARDWOOD 17 Base Front & Back (2) 18 Base Sides (2) 19 Bu'lInosed Moldings Fronts & Backs (8) 20 Bullnosed Moldings Sides (8) 21 Top Frame Front & Back (2) 22 Top Frame Sides (2) 23 Crown Front & Back (2) 24 Crown Sides (2) 3/4" x 10" X 201/2" (Hond. Mah . Crown Moldings So far.) Door Applied Moldings Bottoms (2) 1/2" x 3/4" x 10" (Hond.

. :i ( . TODAY'S WOODWORKER MARCHI APRlL 1989 lEI . \ . " i.' ': \ .. 1 .

Since these pieces are cut from 1/2" stock. Get someone to help you lift the entire middle section onto the drawer casework section and attach them together.) Cut and fit the curved door top moldings to size and glue them into position. Miter both ends of the door bottom moldings and finish sand all pieces. The moldings should be set close enough together so your router base can rest on the molding not being cut while cutting the other piece (See figure 5). Keeping the same pivot point. Start by assembling the crown front. Now with a tablesaw fence set at 1/2". cut these moldings off of the wide board. just be sure to allow clearance for the door bumpers (48) that get applied after the finishing is complete. Cut the staves (with their 50 inward bevels) to length and glue and nail them on. leaving them a little long so they can be fit to length. edges flush to achieve the rounded look. you might have a little filing and sanding to do. Release the routed moldings from the workbench and risers and remove any glue remaining on the backs. Use a file to shape the ends of the front and back crown moldings to match the bullnosed crown side moldings. Now lift the top section (with the crown already in place) into position and attach it to the middle section. (as shown in figure 2). Finish sand the assembled crown. Cut the ends of the door side moldings square where they'll meet the curved top moldings and at a 45 0 miter where they'll meet the bottom moldings. 29 and 30). Now bullnose the edge with a 3/8" round over bit in your router. Mount the stave supports to the inside of the crown. If you're like most woodworkers. The final step is to dowel and glue the assembled crown to the top frame section. use your compass to layout the four curved top moldings and cut them to size. you'll need "risers" to allow the router bit to clear your table surface. Putty any nail holes and finish sand. Fit the crown front and back moldings flush with the crown side moldings and glue them in place.) Be sure to extend the ends a little longer so they can be cut to fit after they're rounded over. Sand any overlapped Use a compass to lavout the curved arches for the door moldings. Mount the European hinges (45 and 46) to the doors. Trace the four moldings onto a 1/4" piece of fiberboard and cut these risers to size. Check for any glue squeeze out and finish sand if necessary. Affix the risers to the moldings and then to your workbench just as you did with the front and back crown moldings. Glue the door side and bottom moldings to the door panels. (NOTE: the piece (29) from which the curved top moldings are cut is 1/2" stock. Both pieces are temporarilv glued to the table top during this procedure. Now fit the crown side moldings flush with the front and back of the crown and glue them in place. where they'll be hidden from sight. Make the crown side moldings (26) just as you made the top frame moldings.Use one molding as a support for the router while rounding over the other. You can either screw or glue them in place. Set the doors and drawer faces into MARCH/ APRIL 1989 TODAY'S woo DWORIillR . round over bit. Machine the door stops (33) and center them inside the middle section. not 3/4". Finish sand the crown moldings. Assemble the Crown and the Top Frame If all your cuts in the last section were made correctly. Carefully release the routed moldings from the workbench and remove any glue remaining on the backs. I recommend starting with a wide piece (at least 4") of 3/4" stock. Following the dimensions shown in figure 6. Door Moldings Making the bottom and side door molding is similar to making the applied molding for the top frame. Bullnose the edges of the board with a 3/8" round over bit in a router. Getting Everything Together It's time to start assembling major components to make sure everything is lining up right. repeating the procedure until you have the sides and bottoms cut. Start by attaching the middle section divider and sides to the back. however. as is the case with the sides and bottoms. this section should be a breeze. reduce the radius bV 3/4" for each of the four pieces. back and sides with dowels and glue. starting from the center line and working out to the ends . but things should fall together pretty quickly. using the spring loaded ones on the top and bottom and the free swinging ones in the center. Finish sand the curved door moldings. (NOTE: I cut strips of 1/4" plywood 21/4" wide to rest against the inside edges of the stiles and rails to help position the moldings while I glued and clamped them. top and bottom. To machine the solid wood for the door moldings (28.

. . When everything looks good.) When you are done trimming you should have the side edges flush with the sides. Tre. I U \. He is also president of the Minnesota Woodworkers Guild. availa'bfeJrom" The wpotiwo~kers' . TODAY'S WOODWORKER MARCH I APRIL 1989 lL 4" f r Shelves and Hanging Rod Measure the openings for your seven adjustable shelves to make sure you're still on target with the material list measurements. removing all hardware. . right? Now take advantage of your knock down fittings and disassemble everything. Check the fit of the shelves to see that everything is correct. remove the doors and drawer faces and finish sand the edges.----- ~ ~ ~ ~ 52" 79" '-- 1 ~ 10W' Lf \J their respective positions without attaching them and see if any final trimming is necessary.) Disassemble and Finish Everything fits. I just wiped it on and wiped it off! • Bruce Kieffer is a freelance author and professional custom furniture builder. "" . To finish this piece. Roger~.. but Zar's did not. MA02150 arid Crafts'man Wood ' Service Co. (NOTE: Using your adjustable feet... there should be 1/16" gaps on the top and bottom of the doors and drawer faces as well as between the two doors and drawer faces. Cut the plywood pieces (7 and 8) and machine the solid edges (38 and 39) for each front. make sure the whole piece is level before you start trimming. (NOTE: I turned my hanging rod and made the rod end holders from solid mahogany. and was quite pleased with the simple application.. · TW. ~.AddisQn. Dept TW. Chelsea.. !VIN5~374. 1735 W: ' Cbrllapd Ct. Glue the edges to the plywood and finish sand when dry. Adjust the drawer faces and check for proper alignment. Cut the hanging rod to length and check its fit. Some tung oils. TWj 375·BeachamSt.strial . . Mount the door hinges to their baseplates and adjust the hinges until the doors align properly.. Attach the drawer faces to the drawers and put the drawers onto the slides in the drawer casework section. The matluials·iri this projeCt are. (and danish oils) have a tendency to bleed from the grain. Dept.I t I ~ 7" ~r-- ---r -- 2Yi' . ·~_ Blvd. Dept. 42" used Zar's ''Wipe On Tung Oil" with a satin sheen. IL 60101. Mount the hanging rod ends in the wider side of the middle section..nd!ines. Close the doors slowly to check for binding.Store. On the other hand.· 2180~ Indu. .

PVC pipes with inside diameters of 11/2" and 2". Space the PVC pipe on the jig so that there is 13/16" at the closest point between the outer edges of the larger pieces of pipe. I figured this project would show him some basic principles of bending and at the same time produce an attractive wall shelf. four #10 common nails and epoxy resin glue. bulky wood steaming rigs scare some woodworkers off. this is also one of th e most under used of techniques among woodworkers. While the jig is clamp-ed and the glue is drying. I recommend plastic resin glue because it offers a longer working time compared to other popular glues. After pondering the question. After drilling the holes. Unfortunately. which is Bending the veneer strips for this pro. as this article illustrates. First. First cut your veneer strips (See material list) to length. are better suited for this application. simpler ways to bend wood. some plastic laminate. glue the plastic laminate to the particle Making a Bending Jig board with epoxy resin glue. (NOTE: Certain species. Recently. drill two holes in both sets of PVC pipe. and wondered what Pd suggest for an experimental project.) For laminating the veneer strips. Assembly of the jig is easy once all the pieces are cut to size.bond nonporous materials. Necessary materials for constructing the jig include a small piece of one inch particle board. However. The specifications cited for this jig will produce curved supports customized for this particular project. If the smaller pipes fit too loosely into the larger ones. spread glue over all surfaces to be joined. I invited him to my shop to show him a curio shelf design that happens to utilize bent veneer strips.. insert shims between them to tighten ~~~. a woodworking friend of mine told me he wanted to try some wood bending.. The veneer chosen for this project should have straight grain to minimize the chances of unwanted distortion. Prior to clamping in the jig. By Bill RockIer ne of the most impressive properties of wood is its ability to bend.. Now glue and clamp the pieces of PVC pipe to the laminated side of the particle board block with epoxy resin. using a 1/8" bit. The jig and techniques used also provide basic background that can be applied to many wood bending applications. O Once you get the hang of it. But there are other. These holes should be betwe en the smaller and larger pipes and penetrate through the plastic laminate and into the particle board block. the fit. determine the positions where the four PVC pipe pieces will be located. Next duces uniform results every time. the design of this jig may be altered according to size and spacing to create a wide variety of bent wooden pieces suitable for other projects..recommended because of its ability to ject requires a simple jig that pro. As my friend found out. MARCHI APRIL 1989 TODAY'S WOODWORI<ER . especially cherry and walnut. learning how to bend wood can open exciting new horizons for any woodworker.ABEN1WOOD CURIO SHELF An excellent project for experimenting with bending techniques. insert the #10 common nails and carefully drive them home. the author's bending jig can provide shelf brackets for a variety of applications. Let the glued and clamped jig dry according to the adhesive manufacturer's recommendations before using it to bend veneer strips. Bending Veneer Strips The curved support is comprised of four veneer strips laminated together. Perhaps visions of large.

The curved support may now be attached to the frame with both wood glue and 3/8" #18 brass escutcheon pins at contact points. Bt. · . Notch the back of the platform to fit around the wall standard. the bent veneer should simply slide out of the jig with ease.. Now countersink and drill two holes on opposite ends of the wall standard for attaching the shelf to the wall. While drying. there should be slight pressure on the contact points.N. For most platforms. the curved veneer support shouldn't experience any springback when the clamps are removed. making sure the two pieces are 90 0 to each other. . The platform that is attached to the shelf support may be made from either plywood or solid wood.. Next position the shelf support member into the wall standard dado and predrill a hole for a 3/4" #18 nail where the two pieces join. \ Rogers. 5537~. In most cases. Predrilling this hole is important to reduce the chances of cracking this relatively thin stock. Keep the curved support clamped in the jig for at least 24 hours to allow proper drying. Use protective plates at all pressure points to prevent the clamps from marring the veneer. JW. -Induslrial -Blvd. Assembling the Shelf The frame for this piece is made from two pieces of 1/4" hardwood stock.:The Woodworkins' Store. dry assemble them and predrill holes for the escutcheon pins. I've found that clothes pins provide just enough pressure and won't damage the wood. After the holes are drilled. If adequately glued and dried. simply attaching it with wood glue is adequate. Be sure to sand the edges of the curved support to remove excess glue and unevenness. Before gluing the pieces together. Finishing the Curio Shelf I recommend spraying finish on this project because of the hard-to-reach locations where the frame and support join together. Gentle prying may be needed if excess glue seeped from the veneer. MATERIAL LIST Tx Wx L Wall Standard (1) 1/4" x 3/4" x 91 /4" (Cherry hardwood) 2 Shell Support (1) 1/4" x 3/4" x 41/2"' (Cherry hardwood) 3 Shell Platform (1) 1/8" x 53/8" x 61/8" (Cherry hardwood) 4 Curved Supports (4) 1/28" x 13/16" x 101/8" (veneer strips) TODAY'S WOODWORKER MARCH I APRlL 1989 ( The wood products shown in this article are available from: Cons!i1nl\l1es. Use 2" c-clamps to hold each end of the veneer strips and a spring clamp to apply pressure to the mid-section of the curved support. so it will be flush to the wall. Deft products and lacquer are highly recommended. Shelves built to these specifications have successfully held objects weighing up to fifteen pounds. TW. • Bill RockIer is a home shop woodworker who finds making jigs an intriguing pastime. First cut a 1/4" wide by 1/8" deep dado 3/4" from the top of the wall standard. apply glue and insert the pins. Proceed by driving a nail through this hole (from the backside) to join both members. The protective plates used with the spring clamp in the mid-section should each have one beveled edge that can be tucked into the tight-fitting location between the veneer and PVC pipe. IVI.Now gently wrap the veneer strips around the PVC pipes to get the desired shape. 2050 Eastchester Rd. . The wall standard requires some machining before assembly with other shelf members.onx NY 10461-or < . Plan on applying one coat of sealer and two coats of finish. 21801 . De·pt. Dept.

By laminating two contrasting species of wood.. The next step is to sand and shape the top. While the popularity of some techniques tends to rise and fall with time.. . but other s uccessful combinations might include purple heart and ash or teak and birch. you should have the experience necessary to move onto larger and more elaborate wedged through tenon projects -maybe even your own Windsor chair! Along with the experience. a favorite of woodworkers everywhere.-.AWEDGEDTEN MAGAZINE RACK Here's a project that will get you set up for making wedged through tenon joints. Start by drum sanding the 2W' MARCHIAPRIL 1989 TO DAY'S WOODWORICER . O Getting Started Laminating two contrasting wood species for the base and top gives this magazine rack an interesting look which serves to highlight the wedged through tenon joinery. First drill three 1/8" diameter tangent holes in the space between the base and top patterns with a brad point drill bit. By Jack Holmberg ne of the most timeless and beautiful joinery techniques in woodworking is the wedged through tenon. Once you've completed the project. The straight edges can be trued up with a jointer. Refer to the template for all your dimensions. machining your piece. the wedged through tenon has earned the admiration of generation after generation. It is both functional and highly decorative. To get started. I used walnut and maple. Clear the remaining wood between your holes. Once the glue drys. I found the wedged tenon to be one of the most popular joinery techniques among my students. Top View 21W' 6W' 1Ys" Cutting the Base and Top The safest way to cut the base from the top is with a saber saw. layout the base pattern within the top pattern so there is equal space between both of them." . Using the template shown at right. Be sure to use good clear stock so you don't end up with a knot in the wrong spot when you start J/ . insert the saber saw blade and carefully cut out the base. Now mark each dowel hole center with a scratch awl on both the base and top pieces. offering woodworkers creative design opportunities through the use of contrasting wood species. After teaching in the public school system for many years. Now use a belt or disk sander to finish off the convex ends of the base. The base and top are both cut from the same lamination. the author draws attention to the decorative joinery used in this project. plane or hand file. clamp and glue the maple stock (1) between the two pieces of walnut (2) -see material list for dimensions.. The magazine rack design shown here offers an excellent starting point for anyone wishing to learn this technique. belt and finish sand both faces and machine the laminated stock to the width and length shown in the material list. For this particularly piece.' _ . you'll also have three very useful jigs that are typically employed with this joinery technique.

be sure to use a scrap piece underneath the top piece to prevent any chipping. TODAY'S WOODWORKER MARCH I APRIL 1989 MATERIAL LIST . How to Get the Splayed Look I recommend making an angle drilling jig (see figure 1) for your drill press to get the splayed look of this magazine rack.. Once you've installed this jig on your drill press. If you're not using the jig. Continued . Finish up by using a bandsaw on the convex ends of the top and then belt or disk sand the curves. concave curves and then move to the outside of this piece. Now repeat this procedure for the top piece. drill the base dowel holes 1/2" deep. Preparing the Dowels and Wedges The top end of each dowel rod for this project will receive a short kerf cut ending in a relief hole. TxWx L 1 Top and Base (1) 3/4" x 10" 23" (maple hardwood) 2 Top and Base (2) 3/4" x 10" x 23" (walnut hardwood) 3 4 Side Spindles (18) 1/2" diameter x 12" (walnut dowels) Wedges (18) 1/8" x 1/2" x 3/4" (maple hardwood) X . Carefully follow the dimensions and angles shown in the template when drilling the holes along the curved ends.II 82° 1/2" deep Using the jig above you can keep your angle while drilling an entire side -without hitting the drill press column. resetting the hole depth so the drill goes all the way through. The relief hole serves to keep the dowels from splitting when you drive in your wedges. at an outward angle of 82° to the base (as shown in figure 1). To make the kerfs and relief holes I recommend two easy-to-make jigs.. To true up the straight edges on the inside of the top use a file followed by a sanding block.

' They are sold by The Woodworkers'Store (21801 Industrial Blvd. Final Assembly Begin final assembly by placing the dowel rods into the base holes. being careful to avoid squeeze out (NOTE: A stronger assembly can be achieved by striating dowel ends with the inner jaws of a combination pliers.. Co.. :":' \.::>:.:. The top should be positioned so the dowel ends just clear its upper face. Set the tablesaw blade at 1/2" and make the kerf cuts down the center of the jig. it's important to align all your holes along consistent center lines.. . Those hard-to-reach curves. Sam Maloof Finishes are available in two formulas: a polyurethane/ oil blend and an oil/wax finish.~ .' Cor. . flush file and sand off the protruding dowels. and secure the dowels with the wedges.:\: . . cloth. . making sure that all kerfs are exactly perpendicular to the edge of the base. Maloof believes that rubbing the finish into the wood by han.-. I strongly recommend using a zero clearance throat plate insert on your tablesaw when making these pieces..- ~~ATIS IN STORE . finishing work.Addi. When malting these two jigs.The w(fiJdproducts ·s~own in1his.\.c .are". After adequately scraping and sanding the surface. elude the reach of sandpaper will be easier to smooth with Perfect Panel Products' Contour Sanding Grips ih hand. . :Rogers" .. one of Am~rica's ~ost accomplished and celebrated woodworkers. Position the top to achieve desired height. who won a gQld medal from the American Craft Council in June 1988.INliollworkers' . Glue the dowels into place. '. This is done so that on final assembly :. lightly chamfer the other end of each dowel and thoroughly sand all of them.. Two ne~ products now available for your .. This jig has a 1/2" through hole drilled from the top (centered). MA 01888) MARCHI APRJL 1989 TODAY'S WOODWORJ<ER ..article. 3/8" and 1/4". has used these finishes on woodworking placed in the White House and the Smithsonian Institution's Renwick Gallery. and the flexible pad acommodates sanding almost any curve. ~ . making sure all exposed surfaces have been cov_ered. MN 55374) . •ilvailatile lro'm: C·raflsnian. and then cut 3/4" long pieces off of those two ends.':' :. but only one inch from the edge.i w. >. The flat grip.i:1. .. " :. :. To make these cuts I recommend using a sharp carbide saw blade with an 1/8" kerf.~~'.. Box 4000.2J 8o).. corners and depressions that -always .irdusttial iirv~·. excess finish is vigorously wiped off with·a fresh .. '. The first is a drilling jig for positioning the relief holes (See Figure 2). Cut several 1/8" (+) thiclc strips of wedge stock from a 12"-18" piece of 1/2" maple scrap.. Clamp this jig on your drill press and drill a relief hole in each dowel rod. Repeat this operation on two opposite straight side dowels and then complete the wedging of all remaining dowel rods.-. Maloof. 1/2".o-"'~-~". Now lightly apply glue into the kerfs of the center dowel on each end and lightly tap the wedges into their kerfs.beill:·. and an 1/8" hole drilled 9/16" up from the bottom edge (also cen tered). Sand a taper on both sides of each end of your scrap maple wedge strip. • Jack Holmberg is a retired woodshop teacher who serves on the editorial board o/Today's Woodworker..~·:- ".:~-·2. Once you've cut your 18 relief holes and kerfs. A router table set up makes this an easier operation. all the kerfs and wedges will be uniform. \_~ Sam Maloof.' sonj IL:6D. ..rI'lJ(55374 :~~' . he recommends applying a generous amount of finish ~mto the wood and' rubbing over . has decided to make his personally formulated finishes available to the public. . positions sandpaper to evenly smooth difficult corners. '.~:" '-~.Wood ·Servibh. which come in sizes 5/8". Repeat this procedure on the upper edges of the base. Rogers.:{..:fW. Place the spindle in the first hole and pin it through its relief hole with an 1/8" dowel. o.tI~M. This will also allow the glue to work up the sides better.r The hole the dowel is placed in is 19/16 " deep. To enhance the natural beauty of the contrasting colors of maple and walnut.d with a clean cloth is the best way to fully capture the natural beauty of wood. In addition to the curved grips.• .J. After the glue dries. working your way around.-. just wrap sandpaper around one of the flexible rubber grips. l . Your wedges should be slightly thicker than the kerfs you just made in the dowel rod ends. To uniformly sand concave curves. The 1/8" pilot hole is then centered along that line.. . Begin at one convex end...' ~735' W. Continue repeating this procedure to create your wedges until the strip is too short to safely handle on the tablesaw Now rout the upper half of the outer and inner edges of the top with a 3/8" radius round over bit. . . Finishing Up Thoroughly sand the rack in preparation for finishing. I recommend clear finishing with varnish or lacquer.... Now make the second jig for cutting the kerfs in each dowel rod end (See Figure 3).>###BOT_TEXT###lt;_.1 Qf or Tbe. < i:tiiPt.i. the set also includes one flat grip and one flexible sanding pad.i.-1 \. :..) Dry assemble the top to the dowel ends. Woburn.S'tore. Once the firlish has been worked into the wbod. The complete set of sanding grips and pad are available from The Woodworkers' Store or Woodcraft Supply (41 Atlantic Ave.:. the entire workpiece.

The third step is to check the work arbor for "run-out". Tensioning makes the plate more rigid and more resistant to vibration. Otherwise. Compare the run-out of your machine to the specifications in the owner's manual. Replacement tires are available from the manufacturer. If you've ever dropped an arbor washer on the floor while changing a blade you may have a little problem. Finally. many of which can be eliminated by following a regular maintenance program. A chuck may also cause the bit to turn in an eccentric motion. they should be replaced. Drill presses may have extreme wear at the quill.TODAY'S SHOP Eliminating Bad Vibrations in the Shop By Roger W Cliffe Vibrations can be a real problem on just about any stationary power tool. reducing the vibration at the blade might only be a solution to the symptom. . but if they were not machined to more precise tolerances. To understand eccentricity problems. A worn belt or one with a "bump" on it can cause belt slap. inspect the pulleys. so the amount of error in the blade is mini- TODAY'S WOODWORKER MARCHIAPRIL 1989 mal. especially if it's frequently moved. When the wheels do not turn a true orbit. not eliminate it. Some woodworkers use saw collars or a dampener next to their blade to make it more rigid or dampen the vibration. worn or bent bits can be a prime source of vibration. In addition to the previous causes. The simple solution would be to install a bushing between the blade and the arbor. there would be a great deal of vibration caused by the eccentric path of the blade. a machinists tool that can sense eccentric movement of the work arbor. particularly with lower quality blades. which in turn can generate vibration that shows up at the cutter or blade. The tires on the wheels can also generate vibration if they are not smooth and true. and a logical sequence to follow when trying to eliminate them. But remember. Belts. Second. Beyond causing vibrations. If possible. If the pulleys seem to be wobbling or turning in an eccentric manner. The cause may still remain and it's important to get to the root of any vibration problem. This is done with a dial indicator. lt bears mentioning that a poor quality blade will vibrate more than a well made blade. loose clamps and locks can lead to other serious problems or a possible mishap. • Dr. Adding bushings will more than likely just compound the problem. Balance problems are more likely to occur on high speed tools such as routers and shapers. A visual inspection will reveal any irregularities. (the part that extends the chuck) which causes vibration during the drilling operation. These slight errors tend to compound themselves on power tools. tighten all clamps and locks. After checking for level. there are two wheels that can also generate vibration. New York. On sawing machines.. Vibration also causes excess wear on the bearings and prematurely dull cutters and blades. Get into the habit of checking all clamps and locks before turning on any stationary power tool. of course. Compare your findings with the manufacturer's specification. If your machine is beyond manufacturer's tolerances.. The tolerances will be tighter and the pulley will be more resistant to wear. you'll need a machinist. imagine the results you would have if you tried to mount a saw blade with a 3/4 inch arbor hole on a 5/8 inch arbor. Both have been found to reduce vibration. this is in fact only one potential cause. A quick treatment with the sharpening stone will put an end to this problem. The sudden surge at start-up causes them to wear unevenly.. there should be no burrs on the pulleys. so it is best to match the blade to the saw even if it means having the blade custom bored. . That's because the plate or body of a poor blade is not tensioned as well as that or a high quality blade. I recommend having a machinist inspect the cutter for you. Bandsaws have unique causes of vibration. This is because they wear quickly if they are loose. published by Sterling Publishing Co. of New York. this will not be an improvement. The higher the drilling speed. Radial arm saws in particular are subject to this oversight.. Roger Cliffe is the author of "Table Saw Techniques" and "Radial Arm Saw Techniques". If you change the cutter or blade and the vibration goes away. The first thing to check is the belts. the more vibration you can expect. Saw blades are usually manufactured around the arbor hole. In addition. You can replace the wheels. While this causes some to question their blade. Die cast pulleys are most likely to wobble. Another common cause of vibration on any machine originates when the cutting tool is out of balance or eccentricity. and they should turn in a true orbit. which can also cause vibration.. They should be in perfect alignment or they'll generate vibration as the belts try to climb the pulleys at high speed. The resulting metal "burr" will likely cause some vibration. however this would only minimize the eccentricity. There are a number of places to look for vibrations. First. always follow proper tool set up procedures. When the saw was turned on. many more subtle causes of vibration with power tools. you've found your problem. Take that extra minute to level the machine. Run-out at the chuck or quill can be identified with a dial indicator. replace these pulleys with a machined steel pulley. Pulleys and Wheels There are. Roll the bit on a smooth surface to see if it is bent. they can generate a great deal of vibration.. resulting in poor cutting. it typically ends up at the blade. (a fancy word for off-center). since they have twice as many clamps and locks as any other stationary power tool.

I will try to present some important "tips" that I've found necessary to be successful at hammer veneering. As this technique became perfected. produces a scraping action instead of the cutting action found on most conventional hand planes. making a good wood to wood bond easier to obtain. The veneering of a curved surface using a caul requires that the ground and caul be made with great accuracy so the veneer will be pressed uniformly.. reliable. One limiting factor of the too thing plane is that the ground surface must be relatively flat. the veneer was made flatter and more flexible. As soon as the veneer is wet. the toothing plane.. about 80 0 . I apply one strip of veneer tape going across the grain at MARCHI APRI L 1989 TODAY'S WOODWORlillR . Therefore. In all fairness. the crafts- Tips for Success There are many books available today which cover the "how to" of hammer veneering. The toothing plane served two main functions in the hammer veneering process. first with the grain and then obliquely. When the veneer was hammered down. The veneer should be layed as soon as it is removed from the flattening press as it will begin to adjust to the atmospheric conditions and will unflatten if allowed to remain in the open. The name veneer hammer is really a misnomer in as much as the tool is not used to hammer. as is necessary for a good bond. it was used to prepare man would follow with a cabinet or hand scraper to obtain a smooth surface for finishing. The sandwich is then placed between two pieces of plywood and clamped flat. To prevent this. in the remainder of this article.. tools were soon developed to simplify the process and make it more reliable. By removing the saw marks. Another tip involves tears that can occur along the grain of veneer while it is being squeegeed down. especially when using crotch grain or burl veneer. I use this like a hand scraper and force the teeth into the ground to produce the tiny groves needed for veneering. is to flatten the veneer before laying it. The use of brass or aluminum for the blade insures that the veneer will not be discolored by chemical reaction. the veneer hammer and the toothing plane. The technique of hammer veneering produced two such tools. To remedy this problem. was used to remove the saw marks from the glue side of the veneer.. it was further discovered that curved surfaces could also be veneered and that inlays and edge ban dings could be applied by employing this new "high tech" approach. Secondly. . has an antique veneer hammer with a steel blade that he uses on a weekly basis with no staining problems. Starting from the bottom you'll have waxpaper. I think the early craftsmen found it difficult to squeegee the excess glue from the center of a large panel to the edge. the veneer should be dry and flat and ready for use. veneer and newspaper. Pat Edwards. He discovered that by pressing or squeegeeing the veneer down with a veneer hammer. The most important tip I can offer. The ground was then planed. At the end of this time. Another benefit that came with the introduction of the too thing plane was that the plane could be used to flatten highly figured wood without the fear of tear out. After too thing the surface flat.. This steep angle. Allow the sandwich to remain clamped for 48 hours.YEST ERDAY'S WOODW ORKER Hammer Veneering: Tools and Tips By John Goff The technique of hammer veneering was probably developed by a French craftsman sometime during the 17th century. To tooth plane curved or cyma shaped surfaces I use a 3 inch long piece of fine-toothed back saw blade. The areas most likely to tear are each end. veneer and two sheets of newspaper.. The plane is able to do this because the blade is set at a very steep angle. two sheets of newspaper.. the hot hide glue was squeezed out and the veneer became glued to the ground. the veneer hammer is used as a squeegee. I flatten my veneer by thoroughly wetting both sides of the veneer with a glue size made up of 50% water and 50% hot hide glue. they made a plane iron with small V-shaped serrations on the back side of the blade. First. as is possible when iron or steel are used for the blade. the ground for veneering. because of its scraping action. This left a series of small groves in the surface of the ground. waxpaper. I made my veneer hammer using Pau Ferro for the handle and head. and efficient method of applying veneer to the ground work without the expense of building a veneer press or caul. this craftsman was trying to develop a simple. In all likelihood. Instead. As with most new technologies. I think the real value of hammer veneering lay in being able to veneer curved surfaces without the use of a shaped caul. A difficult task at a time when only hand tools were available. Change the newspaper three times. at four hour intervals. A variety of tools and supplies should always be within easy reach before starting any hammer veneer project. and a piece of 1/4" thick brass for the blade. I make a sandwich using wax paper. some of the glue was forced out of the edges and the rest of the glue was forced into the small groves. veneer. I must say that my good friend.

:. ' . . _. _..extra. :': .-is·th.. '.fbr a:fi<l.ow t?" ~'i 9~le)~jiJ.~j.' .t9 ' .e '04t 'eilsily" .e:' ' < .--.cr..ct your' s.brush~ '.J le.ctiQll. machi'tJe~can~d . .m soap'. par ti cu la rly wo rk produced in th e Tow nsend/ Goddard School in the 18th century.. to cover " :.t9 ..:'''. .soltite~ .y.\ "..ji~ishing.: :eIll9:re . ~ean . < tefinishe·d 'pi¢ce.. ...·'. '. .a:~ .. . u s ually in the center of th e work piece. .. I : . < .. .< . "..·.." al oversIght is. ~ " '~"" 0 . ~.' ri sa. '. • " 'f . ··r .·.. i ····/ ···: :.... '.. I'ql 'not gO.ou' .(.'.._ · ett ate the 'ghie_for at-least . . . '..' • . chances are there was not enough glue in that spot.hat.: ' : . . ~. Cover the bubble with a piece of wax paper and a piece of wood of the appropriate size and clamp.: th e _.--.....•.. ".~arl. ' ". .. the' brushes" in 'empty cdffe. First of all. :.. re'fuo\Te' splines from. theJinisher': 'away . .~ t~.. .Ial :response to:.to 'blea¢h. ~ : .' introdticed -to _vimigar.es n·4ti'()n~·'.. I !his ! '..' " .ri1e):ph~\ ' s.''Phe viliegar :will' ". .isaGhiev~~.iseh<..' "It.:"..: . " .' " '. . .The·n .: . :-'·1'lle usi..tth~ . :'·~ol~r ' Of . ..w oodworkers . .etS' 9f vII. the ~' shOP·. whir Jec. ' r4n:g. ~~~I:" ·i'p.:· n'i~tl)().'" l~eI.Another 1.head.nt~ga:tiiht6· th~. My last tip involves those nasty bubbles or blisters that often appear after your ven e er ha s been s queege e d down. ·r.~har~.. . 'o n :l)l~a~h. ' HO~lrRe~e~ie..u:sed'}or ·'·injE{ctlng . Yi~e. . sytmge'~ .withQut' 'Chippiri:g· the~ W9Q9 ::·:bleacrr. :'.. ..:' / .. ~ndif-yoti.s~~er:.s sled -ibt. f· ... 9~ used .. '..~ ri? ·:we~~.tjl:-. If the bubble is still present.gi bove :Wltli:yhiegar. '.dt<i." '. .~ · . ' " 'much si~ple. .'.".:'··.lll!lutes.. .'. the craft of furniture making would certainly be different than we know it today.: . to a point that is slightly warm to th e touch. m6·re. :: a.fE:~'.socJh~t · . . .' •. '0' " ~ ..J'. si...n\ew br'Jlsp.:: tnese rtings. worr' t:.: ..' ".' e.: :.p~. !h ~. . · person·'-aHvey.' T4¢ same t~Ghniqtie::can..rE~rM '.: . Afte( . them . .: use .. · en.. . '.~: . and.-use 'a ' dead 'blow hammer .S!nK' bl~a~h.. vi~legar. T~~ .:: < .. ~.'. to tell )r.' . ..iQ-egar ¥{pr. N'Me :·tli'a fvinegar.t.:and s~~.. .eorie:Fr(lnk. Minnesot{l. ' ~. :glue. ' . < . If the rU'ng do~s _.eat !he · .I. is " :.:-..i1:ng·: iiito : t1i~ :leg..: ~. as this will throw the hammer veneering process out of sync and will result in poor adhesion of the veneer. ..'out'easily. ..' . r Odu.the :finls.. . apply heat from an electric iron set on a moderate temperature .. ~p. .s '." .: ~il~ <t~s41t. Jh. ·j()iht · l:£.'.>.b~·.}erry '.·rand fill th~ ' . . and :. .'''':''' .out"'i. 'that 'will ..}J~..-.ark.l1'· owpkitd'i. u:s e :a ...h can .. '.. :j.e!5ar .~ . .'. ·First-d. ri:lal ..gltie) ..w:~~fu. > · ..' " < : " ' . ~. ' : ". ". s'(jn.of te~Ia~ip'g -theip. ~.iP. . ' ... ~ ~usehltd ·.. ".·.:1li'~· .\ . u~4ally ' be fpilnp.ilY·times. harnrner"it to..:~ .. ' goggles_and gloves as ·bleac. '" .. '.: . 'Now:. '.. don't be afraid to be innovative in learning this technique. rags.' . dm ..lc.is the 'key . .-" :the . ':c:' . :rhere .for its dis'titrctiv'e odor..~ .. few . ~. . . . U.o: hard ft WilL . :: ~riot~~r ·p ~9dt!ctWhich . :" " .'.if that unknown 17th century craftsman hadn't tried something new. . -.the. .hese hard~ Ro'semQunt.. . : .:Wjpe :'. . :: I' .a rt. " .. . : ?~~~ 10~b~at.11l help y(jU 'sav~ : bpth tJtrre' .:~way.Ini . '.' · alw:a:ys .e' 'so ~·that. each end. hole -~ &lorig.n:: iuri. :.. ..County Technkcil :' ... or..... cr~t uS~~'.ney. :Jhi$j~ .:true ' .•. " . . ·· P pbducts··used 'for.t9 re~ove.·:easily " ofwa~ei' a. ".'.eI.'.r oundit...~'. ·. are ·two. ~.'.'..jve ~. The tape can be removed after laying the veneer by using cold water and a hand scraper. .' cl::Sma. fill with ...:\ :':'. .' •~ " an I. ' .iC yo·tI.. h9th. v.'aridp~~~ ... ' .' h.. ' .':' • . . '.ari't(. ' ..· tlien.:. · ..e ::the p-ore~'< :-:.Qf'. lighter. ·"to today-'s . Always anticipate any tool s . . It is easier to reactivate the glue at this time than to wait until it has cured. · 'Y~l~h .d~sjredlig1itri~ss. .'~is ··h. '.ble:atii t aiipenetrat.. "..' . Avoid getting the ground too hot.... ~:t~ ~_a.driv.'::" . hiv{ to · be high tech.(·t. : '" .r.'.. H.. ~. -' FI'"SHINGTHOVCHTS ... 0. A wood stove or electric heat lamp will work effectively as a heat source.:.used .. :: .n(.o. .' ih. " ). :.' ' .. be ':tl'se:d . : ' " " : '. .. '. t~e. ·pe ~fll~owing :t..:~ ·'. ':'''. hd ' . ih.n.~f~ty . 'fii$t pro.' .'li'n. ' .. .: fi.: ' . ~ '. ~h. ·. :' b-~rh ' y~~r ski..sl)adi):gly. .".'. . Another easy way to improve your chances of success is to always heat the ground.·d'LI'J. ' . ~et:'J9~ .'s ' widfl 6n tiJ()od. and with highly figured veneer you most likely will. : .g~r ':" ...\. '.' '. .it i. froin' your: nanps) vash themin '-:--:-yqu .. t~J) 'a so .es. . " . tWice. ·'".vineg:ar.~ Yot~: ~u~($ <tn<i t he .: t.irijecfII¢ilt~d vi. .·.. always check for bubbles and blisters as soon as you're done with your veneer hammer.pot tant produ'ct's'.: ' in6ney ~ave:r: Jdon't think~th~re.lihe · : an~ ..n 'a ~t0Y:t.n.n9 .': · ~hairs... w..~:/il~~S ~Wheii. . " :.>f the cp~t " . repeat this prb Ge~ ' .s . ~.iQg·. th¢. ..t~r. .to. :the ..yi~egar..r.·$ :. re·i.·."'" ~.'brilJ. {{ned ...?t · ha~e: b~.P~ .a )ioYice ~. . 'for .:. or other items you might need and have them readily available before you start..·:iI1stanc~:. :se.duof t':wm discuss:'ls '::.:. . '.: . .. .e yd~Y.g.."'. im.. . ._~.· espe¢1~llyt~ue>with. -""""'.t.:'. olDa~ota .6f'vinegat wjlHnv61ve ~reglueing a ..:'i1ieh..' _:·.water. finishing:... _.' '!thow a'noth. .fir!'lC 1.a~:··..:.igtrL i~ . (:lhd . don 't '. ·for.' : " .1w hasn't '.t th~pi~te: ..q~~l)y H~p.:' g~e.. removed .. ..e:-~'in.ece's sary" an9 t~eri' 1: s~md ~ little '.._ : :-:. slit along a grain line through the bubble using an x-acto knife.' can :?.a. · • I " . cane-: iri: ~Y c... .'.. I'.gl:u. l1ead.9sjrig..: · . ' . "R '.:. Finally. just before laying th e veneer.. ". ~ s:h es :' . The technique of hammer veneering can be mastered with practice and a good understanding of the process.. TO DAY'S WOODWORKER MARC HI APRIL 1989 -'.<:'. .!er-ryte'rll. . To repair this problem.W:iiLqnh<Soft~ . -.. .:.(£ on¢ 'too ma.yO\.h :are e. . .' " . :~··eri:hjde gl~ei~rp:VA6r1:i1l6wofw. .Yringe. ·un..' t' ' • " • ~. :. 'm'o st f<imoils.i'r hed thisJ)y e{Cp. '.J. · . .. ..J.... ::: ¢h~iI\ . .w 1?rushe~. ::'.' _ .~~tant · ' ~f vllleg~. :..' any~ ".l.-Although i'tis. epoxy .. ..'. '" '..' . Remove the clamp in about two hours and check the area by tapping. : . I . so~~. in. b r. . . :.'.". If you find a bubble.forgotten·inasterfi~isher..fh.t!.- . '.. Then-.~ : _ • :.'. . ." tiie:s:':The v..' .'. ..es.~ the chaic ap. .: .. fiis~ exaiUpl~' 'o f... s'oJrr~ :'. j:>l~c~ '. ". ....)Ii.eri.6hi.. I. .:: ..: . . . " . electric iron. .iitdie({ u~de.' . a:'." . r . .e '·. · .<':..' .. :. a 'mb'ney ~~v:er and)ife:.• :The ne~( u$e · 'Of -vin'e gar is -~~.l~~ n.. .J.gone to .il()t .' 11':·.e·..': .:~ ." sy~i. -·· b reak ..i. 'a nd nioMy. &lde~ th.~e<_piec¢ bef~r~ 'applyiJig ' bteach.... -. evenly. riexfi:~ · . .il1. 9.this 'oc~a~ioi1.. thar ca~ .paint -brqsh -once . . . .saQding.lacquer ·f umes· 'haVe not .:c' '. ...en : . - . .: '.'. <J.. :.ri1J)I~' gOiriK:··.J.' .b1eacn'.-.t : cari ..e b~usbes. ' L!!!II-~ 0: . ...$Q~eI) the-glue'. Just think.spi(rriigli aPRh~ a: 50:50 ~o~~tiori .'. "': . .ll 'fiQle throug4th€' .: 1".: . · .n ge. ·· diire. " .' : .'lng-'. ' .five mm7.j:.'. " ' -' .. '..' ·ish ihg~orld ." : ~spllrie.... Ji. : . '. ~. water.·...ryt~ny'. ' .s.. .i d~an .·:: . se. my ·. .m~a:c1. p'rrigram ..BYj.tii!lesJhhe:will· ~e !on.n ..i:.e 'can ' . ·: liI!!~ : ..Re~pi>ly. .t . vlfff~~ . '...ypu .e. ~.~¢.vinl=lg~{ to ' n~utra1iie the : .' .: -: "not come. . I use the end of a piece of metal to tap the veneered surface.t?. "... : . :.' .:. '·.. .:.. clamp as before. Il?-o.': But .: . · .the ·btusQ'es and wash.: ~litstiiuie 's :wodd [in'ishirtg' 'In' .do\ vn. and check again in two hours. This will extend the working time of the glue before it chills.'.. .ot' 'a.:tlje :..: . .'t.to thr9.. .. Insert a small amount of new hot hide glue.'f' l.oo'd·::· Re.... No..· .' '. • :.>Jd ble:qch ..··-the.'. A good bond will result in a sharp sound and a bubble will produce a dull sound.to..r..w .· inje..· Th~~ e'. .enough vi~egar.: 'br'e'ak~ When I·vVas . ' .).\ . :.~t ~ . .: • '-.' .arid ' -believer in: bleaching unle~s ab..· -'. '::. • Joh n Goff is a professional furniture maker with a special interest in antique reproductio ns.I' -Was .... '.. ::.. .. '.··'1 .

it's almost scary that John Goff has only been a woodworker since 1981. half-lap and lap dovetails. the largest annual fine woodworking exhibit in Southern California. including the rule joint. such as the ones shown on the bottom of this page. In addition. circa 1750. please send us your color slides or transparencies (no prints please).READER 'S GALLERY An'Invitation To Participate T oday's Woodworker asked contributing editor John Goff to help us kick off the Reader's Gallery with a sampling of his work. Already his work has won first place or "best of show" every year since 1982 at the Del Mar Fair.. This chair combines regional design elements from Boston and Philadelphia. Minnesota 55374. concentrating mainly on antique reproductions. mortise and tenon. If you have a piece that you'd like to submit to the Reader's Gallery. Future issues will feature the work of various guilds and woodworker's clubs around the country. knuckle joint. MARCH/APRJL 1989 TODAY'S WOODWORJillR . This mahogany table has an oval top and uses virtually every joint common to the 18th century furniture maker.. Finally. Rogers.. c/o Today's Woodworker. JOHN GOFF: A Master of Reproductions When you think about it. at right. At top right is a Chippendale drop leaf table.. It's made from Hawiian Koa wood and tulip poplar with dovetail construction throughout. The next piece is a Sheraton style entry table. we'd like a brief description of the piece. . The 43 year old Goff is a full-time woodworker. Box 44. The walnut chair features mortise and tenon construction throughout. Starting at the top left is a Queen Anne side chair. a reproduction of a John Townsend piece.. please include a 'couple of detail shots.. . as well as the work of our own subscribers. circa 1780. circa 1810. the wood used and the techniques employed. if possible. other than the fact that we're looking for your "showcase" work. There are no particular guidelines or restrictions. Finally. He is particularly interested in work that was produced in the Townsend/Goddard School in the 18th century. Send your submissions to Reader's Gallery. is a Blockfront chest of drawers. This 42 inch table's top features an eight way match of mahogany crotch veneer with ebony inlay and solid mahogany edging. circa 1760. .