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So this will be a continuing evolution of

multiple Form 1 suppressors, once you

get past the first eform1 they tend to
be very addicting This will not be a
definite how-to, but should be close.
And its my first write up, so its not
going to be pretty.
I do not have a mill or lather or the
know how to run one but I can adapt
and get it done without. Please follow
safe practices if you use any of this
info. And make sure you follow all laws
and regs.
We will be using SDtactical tubes and
adapters as well as Stainless tubes
from apogee and a Muzzle brake from
Harrison gear(the not so 100$) All
suppressors are being made for .308
but some will be used solely on 556, I
hate uni-taskers. The first 5-6
suppressors will be for 300AAC and
556, .22 and some pistol cans will
follow in a month or two.

This is the layout I will be following,

Infinitegrim drew this up based on my

First you will need to pick a tube.

SDtac is the top black steel($31 for
8.375"), Apogee Stainless tube($42
8.375") in the center and the
Harrisongear muzzle brake($220 steel
30cal) at the bottom

The Harrison gear muzzle brake only

needs a tube and some way to hold
the tube in place, it is a muzzle brake
that lends itself well to secondary
uses. It is solid steel and pretty heavy,

and similar to a monocore, and you

can get it in 1/2x28or 5/8x24 threading
or blank for your own threading. My
brake is 30cal with 5/8x24 threading.
More on this brake in a later post.
SDtactical offers end caps(adapters) in
threaded(your choice in threads) or for
a Griffin muzzle brake(his own house
version also). I choose to go with
Griffin muzzle brakes and Flash comps.
I am building 2 dedicated 300AAC cans
for 2 of my guns but going with the
Griffin brake will add some extra
baffling and a sacrificial offering, the
rest of my guns will be getting Griffin
Flash comps as the suppressors will
not be living on them permanently. I
was a Vortex Fan boy before, but I am
digging these Griffin comps
Griffin Muzzle Brake in 308

Griffin Flash Comp in 556

Brakes threaded into the SDtac

adapters, 556 flash comp on the left,
308 comp on the right. Flash comps
have one chamber/baffle, comps 2

Brakes Threaded into SDtac adapters

All endcap/adapters will get O-rings. I

purchased my O-rings from and they were
Model s70124. They are a bit thicker
then the O-ring that comes on a
Maglite but fit perfectly for me.
O-rings, the black o-ring is a maglite

All Freeze plugs are Sealed Power 3813179, the Doorman type may work but
they are slightly bigger and lower
quality. You can find these freeze plugs
at your local autoparts store but they
may have to add them. Should be .
40-.80 cents each

I also used for

spacer material for the blast chamber
and spacers for baffles.

The typical process I have seen to form

baffles is using a vice/press and a
bearing to form the cone. I knew there

had to be something better and I found

a 45deg cone on some automotive 3
jaw pullers I have for my Jeep, it is the
center piece on the threaded shaft and
obtained from 3 jaw puller
The 45deg cone, the ring on the cone
was from working on my jeep, I used a
new cone from one of the other pullers
in the set

Back side of the 45deg cone, its

threaded for the puller

I Found that while the 45deg cone did

a good job it was not to my liking and
not close enough for me to the 60deg
that I believe is preferred for baffles.
So I scoured the internet for something
better and found this it has a 60deg
cone and was pretty cheap so I took a
60deg with 45deg

So I think that is it for parts and

hardware that I needed to complete a
suppressor, I did leave out the
centering tool for the freeze plugs(20$)
and I had also bought several drill bits
(cheap off ebay)to include a .370 bit
for final sizing of my holes, it is roughly
.06" bigger then .308 that I believe is a
good plus sizing on your hole.

Now that everything is on hand my

first order of business is forming some
baffles. I will not be showing the actual
drilling and pressing, if needed I can
snag pics of that in process.
Step one, drilling the 1/8" center,
drilled all the way through. This not
only locates your center but gives the
Cones a place to rest when forming to
remain center.

Step two, the freeze plug to be formed

is placed cup side down onto a
socket(7/8" was almost a perfect fit,
tape finished it)

Now the next step I had originally done

just a 45 but knowing a 60deg is
preferred I wanted to do the 60.
However I quickly learned doing the
60deg would open up the 1/8" hole to
fast and not get enough cone and end
up with to big of a hole. So I stepped it
with the 45 then 60. Just using the 45

deg cone requires more drilling as it

does not open the hole up much(.22"
or so)
45deg only(final .370 drilled hole), 45
then 60deg(.35 hole not final drilled),
60deg only(.4 hole)

60deg only(.4 hole), 45 then 60deg(.35

hole not final drilled), 45deg
only(final .370 drilled hole)

Step three, Form the 45deg. Using the

press(or a vice) you force the cone into
the freeze plug, if using a press be
careful if you use to much force you
can start drawing the plug into the
socket. I go just till the sides of the
cone touch the freeze plug

Step four, Form the 60deg. Same as

with the 45deg but this time the 60deg
cone is going to open up the hole
quickly so you need to check it a few
times with calipers(the hole) to make
sure you do not go past your final size,
you can get it to the final size but I
prefer to final ream it in my drill press
so I will stop a bit short.

Step Five, for me its the final ream(no

pic) or if you formed it till you achieved
your proper hole size just admire your
Center plug

Step six, spacers and the blast

chamber. I need to snag more pics so
for now just one. I used a 1.375" x .065
thickness steel tube for the blast
chamber, the inside of the suppressor
tube is 1.35ish so obviously it will not
fit so I used my belt sander and
reduced the outside of the blast
chamber piece down to 1.35" test
fitting as I went until it fit how I liked,
ended with .05 thickness. On this
specific suppressor Aluminum spacer
for the baffler were used and I just
clipped out a section and tweaked
them to shape. I used a tubing cutter
to cut everything, From Lowes And
also to final fit everything I used my
belt sander.
Next step, is assembly, and I will post
more on this later to include my baffle
layout and spacer sizing and such. I
need to snag more pics.
I will also be posting video reviews of
all 3 types(6"tube, 8.375" tube,
Harrison brake) on both 300aac

supers/subs and 556 fired side by side.

I will be showing complete breakdowns
up all 3 sizes to include post and pre
firing of the internals. So much more to
come over the next few days/week or

The Tools I used....

Hand Drill
Belt Sander
Dremel Tool (Cut off wheels +
engraving bit)
2x 6" C Clamps
2x 3" C Clamps
1x Crescent Qrench (for leverage on 6"
C clamp)
Socket to Hold Freeze Plugs
SD Tactical Freeze Plug Centering Tool
1/8" Drill Bit
.25" Drill Bit

.370" Drill Bit

60 Degree Lathe Centering tool ($7 on
grizzly's website)
Freeze Plugs (specific item number
found in Esstac's Thread)
Seamless 304 SS Pipe: 1.375" OD .
049" Wall bought from
SD Tactical Titanium 7.6" Tube
SD Tactical Aluminum center marked
aluminum endcap
SD Tactical Aluminum Griffin adapter.

Freeze Plugs:
Using centering tool: Drill 1/8" hole
into freeze plugs
Take 45 degree cone (look at esstac's

thread to see where to get it) and

using C clamp push it into the freeze
plug to form 45 degree cone
Take 60 degree Cone, Press into freeze
plug until the hole opens to around .
Take .370" Drill bit to each freeze plug
to make sure the holes are all atleast .
Drill w/ .250" Drill bit through
Drill w/ .370" Drill bit through.
Spacer Material:
Using belt sander, reduce OD to fit into
Using Pipe Cutter, or dremel in my
case, to cut spacers to sizes you've
determined you want. Make one
longer, so you can sand it down until
everything screws together perfectly.
Internal Layout