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Outback driving The Flinders Ranges, SA

On the Way
in SA

January 2015

Issue Number: Four


After a tearful farewell at the Johnson farm on the
1st July, we left Willalooka excited for our impending
adventure but lost and lonely at the same time. Its amazing
how fast you get used to being settled in one place and how
foreign it felt to be back on the road once again.
Under no time restrictions, we spent three weeks
thawing ourselves out by travelling north along the Stuart
Highway. After going up through the Red Centre as far as
Katherine in the Northern Territory, we headed west across
the Kimberley before arriving in Broome on the 21st July.
Although there was 5000km worth of driving involved, we
were kept entertained at numerous stop off points.

Our three week

road trip from
Willalooka, SA to
Broome, WA.

Ben skated across the bridge to

Granite Island, Victor

Harbor where we spent about
an hour strolling around the tiny
landmass. We didnt get to see
any whales, but we did have a
good time exploring the weird
shaped rocks dotted around.
Whilst we were in
Adelaide , we explored the
centre of the small city, wandered
around Central market and
visited the Botanic Gardens.
The Barossa Valley is a
wine region in South Australia
which is famous for its Shiraz.
Notable brands such as Jacobs
Creek and Penfolds are produced
here. The weather was rather
gloomy when we visited, but we
managed to do a scenic drive
which took us through the region
and most notably past Australias
oldest winery, Seppeltsfield where
the whole road was lined with
Palm Trees (which looked very
out of place in SAs climate).

Ben on Granite Island, Victor Harbor

Central Market, Adelaide

Palm Avenue in The Barossa Valley

B. Campbell and J. Baker-Edwards, White Ford Falcon Station Wagon, Somewhere in Australia | 0401 514 832 |



Wilpena Pound

The Flinders Ranges

Bunyeroo Rock Formation

Exploring SAs largest mountain range was a great

way to get back into the swing of things. Located
about 150km out of our way, the National Parks
renowned beauty beckoned for us to take a trip
into the outback.

Once there, we walked to Wilpena

Pound, a natural 80km2 amphitheatre with high

indigenous significance before going on
Bunyeroo Gorge Scenic Drive. On this
40km dirt road drive we went to beautiful
lookouts, drove amongst spectacular scenery
including through riverbeds and gorges and
visited the ruins of Aroona Hut which was built
in the 1920s. On the way back to civilisation we
stopped at Stokes Hill Lookout which had
incredible 360 views which unfortunately our
cameras could not do justice.

Stokes Hill Lookout

Coober Pedy
The 2834km Stuart Highway runs right through
the middle of Australia and was our ticket to
getting to the sun, fast. Once you get onto Stuart
you are in outback country and there is nothing
notable left to see in SA, apart from the peculiar
Opal mining town of Coober Pedy. We
stopped off expecting a normal town but
witnessed shops built underground in dug-outs
(due to the blistering above-ground heat),
spaceships and other film props left over from the
filming of end-of-the-world epics such as Pitch
Black and we were lured into an Asian Mans
house/museum/opal mine/shop whilst we were
trying to find the Big Winch! What an eventful
couple of hours!

The spaceship from Pitch Black"

Underground shop

Ben underneath the Big Winch

Piles of dirt from digging for Opals

B. Campbell and J. Baker-Edwards, White Ford Falcon Station Wagon, Somewhere in Australia | 0401 514 832 |



Close to Alice Springs, the West MacDonnell Ranges boasts a

West MacDonnell Ranges variety of gorges, waterholes and mountains which are ready

to discover. We spent a full day exploring them along a road

which stretches 160km due West of Alice Springs. Places we visited
included Ellery Creek Big Hole, Serpentine Gorge, The

Ochre Pits (colourful rock which the indigenous use to grind up into
paste for rock art and body decoration), and Ormiston Gorge.

Ben on his electric bicycle

View of the ranges from Serpentine Gorge lookout

Ormiston Gorge from up high and down low

The steep walk back down from Serpentine Gorge lookout

The Ochre Pits

East MacDonnell Ranges

Emily Gap

Rock art of caterpillar

Trephina Gorge ridge walk

Ghost Gum Tree

At the East MacDonnell Ranges we visited Emily Gap

and Jessie Gap where we walked along the riverbed
amongst aboriginal rock art depicting dreaming
caterpillars. At Trephina Gorge we went on a perilous
ridge walk where we may have become a bit lost and had
to find our way back to the trail by climbing down a small
cliff. Coroboree Rock is a strangely shaped outcrop of
dolomite rock which has high cultural significance to the
Aboriginal people of the region.

Coroboree Rock

B. Campbell and J. Baker-Edwards, White Ford Falcon Station Wagon, Somewhere in Australia | 0401 514 832 |



The Outback
Even though we travelled between Alice Springs and
Darwin in August 2013, we managed to miss out on a few
weird and wonderful places to stop off at. From tiny
Wycliffe Well (the UFO capital of Aus), to the refreshing

Marataka and Bitter Springs Thermal Pools,

the Lonely Planet kept us entertained at well needed rest
stops along the 1180 km of previously covered land.
The weirdest stop was at the ghost town of
Newcastle Waters; a town made entirely from
corrugated iron buildings left over from the droving days of
the 1960s. Further up the road, the bright pink Larimah

Wayside Inn had a free zoo and aviary in their garden.

Wycliffe Well servo

Croc at LWI zoo

We just had to stop at

the quirky Daly Waters

Pub, where Annie Johnson

worked for a few weeks
when she arrived in Aus.
The nearby disused
Aerodrome (including plane
ruins) was also a good find.

Happy alien selfie

Beautiful sunset reflecting off of rock near Hawker, SA

Ben in creepy hotel in the ghost town of Newcastle Waters

Larimah Wayside Inn Pink Panther
Mataranka Thermal Pool

Bitter Springs Thermal Pool

Characteristically huge termite mound

The quirky beer garden of Daly Waters Pub

B. Campbell and J. Baker-Edwards, White Ford Falcon Station Wagon, Somewhere in Australia | 0401 514 832 |


The Kimberley
We arrived in the Kimberley region
at its most accessible time of year.
However, unfortunately for us,
because of the unadulterated
beauty of the area a lot of the
places are inaccessible for a 2WD.
In fact some of the areas are only
accessible by plane or boat with
tours that cost around $800 each!
We went everywhere we could
possibly get to in Sky, however we

are left with the feeling that we

have left the area incomplete. I
suppose we have to leave something
to come back to for a holiday!
The first National Park we
visited was El Questro where we
were able to visit two waterfalls at

Amalia and Emma Gorges.

Both required long but entertaining
walks involving climbing up rocks,
hopping over riverbeds and skirting
past boulders with big drops on
either side.


The small towns of

Kununurra, Wyndham and

Derby provided us with some

good views along the way as well as
a giant Boab tree that used to be
used as a prison!
Next on the agenda was
visiting the famous 875m in
diameter Wolfe Creek Meteorite
Crater. The place was so cool that
it even made the the 5 hour 150km
unsealed (dirt) road to get there
worth it!

Inside the waterfall at Emma Gorge

Wolfe Creek
Amalia Gorge

Prison Boab Tree (used to lock up prisoners on the way to Derby)

Inside the crater
Emma Gorge

Hiding snake during gorge walk

5 Rivers Lookout, Wyndham

View of Kununurra

B. Campbell and J. Baker-Edwards, White Ford Falcon Station Wagon, Somewhere in Australia | 0401 514 832 |



Extravagant pricing in remote areas is why it was so
important for us to start job hunting the day we arrived in
Broome. During our first day, only three places accepted our
CVs; none of which sounded hopeful that there were
actually any jobs going. At the beginning of the second day
(just as we were gearing ourselves up for spending another
day of fruitlessly wandering around in the sun) we both
received phone calls about attending job interviews. By the
third day of being in Broome, we had both secured jobs in
the 5* restaurant Selene Brasserie in Pinctada Resort and
Chinatown (town centre of Broome) as a storm is brewing
had found a nice share house to move into.
During our first three weeks in Broome, we started to
wonder if we had made the right choice to settle down here.
We were quite happy with the French couple and 42 year old
Aussie man that we were sharing the house with at the time.
However, our jobs were disappointing on many levels. Firstly,
we were not being given the hours that we were promised.
20-25 hours per week was essentially a waste of our time
considering that we like to work as much as possible whilst
we are stopped in one place. Secondly, whilst the staff there
were generally friendly, it was apparent that we were not
going to make the connections or have the social life that we
enjoyed in Palm Cove.
Ben and I inevitably started job hunting again which has
become one of the most important decisions of the trip. We
The famous Cable Beach
had heard through the grapevine that Matsos Broome
Brewery was looking for more staff, so we ventured inside with
our CVs in our hands and smiles on our faces. We had our trial on the busiest and insane day of the year for Matsos - The
Broome Cup (horse racing). Even though it was absolute madness, it wasnt actually stressful because there was a lot of staff
working and the service style was a lot more casual then we were used to.
Since that day, our time in Broome has been much more enjoyable. Matsos is a great place to work, with friendly and
hilarious people which make going to work something we look
forward to. I continued to work at Pinctada on Friday and
Saturday nights which ensured that I got decent hours every week.

Town Beach at low tide

Monument for pearl diving heritage

BBQ with a view at Sarah, Anna and Carlys house

Ben and I are known as the royals- nothing to do with being English I am sure.

B. Campbell and J. Baker-Edwards, White Ford Falcon Station Wagon, Somewhere in Australia | 0401 514 832 |



Matsos Broome Brewery is a somewhat iconic microbrewery

specialising in craft beer. Most famous for our alcoholic Ginger Beer
and Mango Beer, Matsos is well known throughout Western Australia,
with the brand gaining recognition in other states and territories as well.

In addition to brewing and selling the beers on tap, we sell take-away
bottled beer (which is actually brewed and bottled near Perth) as well as being a popular
restaurant and hang out spot in Broome with
gorgeous views overlooking Roebuck Bay.
Working at Matsos has been so much fun. The
brand itself is quirky, refined and well marketed; but
what I think makes the Matsos experience is the
character and passion of the staff. When we arrived
there were 20 front of house staff which gave us a
lot of shift variation and knock-off drinks that
frequently turned into parties. As we've made the
transition to the wet season, we're now down to a
core group of 12. Whilst this makes work more
challenging during unexpected busy spurts, it has
also allowed us to make tight friendships with the
Christmas photo of the team for the paper
remaining staff; the reason we will be sad to leave.

T he 1910 M ice
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building whi

Ben, Josh
and Sarah


in the bar

Marieke a
nd Ben at
Session A
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ly at Oktober
Glen and Car

B. Campbell and J. Baker-Edwards, White Ford Falcon Station Wagon, Somewhere in Australia | 0401 514 832 |



The Highs and Lows of Gantheaume Point

My favourite place in Broome by far is Gantheaume Point which
overlooks the Indian Ocean. In addition to the rugged beauty and
piercing colours which need no enhancement in photos, Gantheaume
has different things to offer at different times of the month (though
you dont want to go there when shes angry; the sea can get pretty
rough). Low tide reveals bonafide dinosaur footprints 130
million years old, whilst high tide provides borderline suicidal
adrenaline junkies the perfect place to cliff jump.

Gantheaume Point at Sunset

Dino tootsie print

Us with a dinosaur footprint


Sarah, Ben, Rosie and Matty

Lower cliff jumping spot

Gantheaume Point at low tide

People waiting their turn to cliff jump

Shogo and Ben after he cut himself on the rocks Cliff jumping spot

B. Campbell and J. Baker-Edwards, White Ford Falcon Station Wagon, Somewhere in Australia | 0401 514 832 |


Broome Life


Our hammock at first house

Zazu the cat

Christmas Champagne Breakfast

My business card design

Our Oktoberfest costumes (mine homemade)

Us with housemates Dan and Shogo

Bens scooter
The pool at Lisas house

Matsos Curry Hut and Courtyard

A storm brewing
My scooter (probably the cutest in the world)
Matsoss beer taps

The first house

My vegetable patch

Sarah and I drinking tequila from coffee

jars because we are THAT cool.

B. Campbell and J. Baker-Edwards, White Ford Falcon Station Wagon, Somewhere in Australia | 0401 514 832 |




What Next?

Glen and Matty camping at Bard Creek (4WD access only beach)

Glen and Brutus at Bard Creek

The Port

Once again it is time to move on from a place that

has become our home. We have had a great five
months in Broome and have been lucky to have a
lot of important things work themselves out
naturally and perfectly.

Firstly, getting jobs and a house was quick
and easy. We had a great four months living with
Dan and various other backpacker housemates
and to make things even better, when hours were a
bit short at work we were even able to work off the
rent by helping Dan in his home improvements
business. Some weeks he even ended up owing us

Secondly, the final month in Broome has
been spent in a gorgeous five bedroom property
which we are housesitting for a friend called Lisa
from Pinctada. In exchange for looking after the
house and Zazu the cat, we pay no rent or bills Staircase to the moon
and even have a private pool! This perfect situation fell into our laps
with all of the dates working perfectly. Lisa comes back on the 6th
January (rendering us homeless), which works out well because our old
housemate Shogo intends to leave Broome in the 7th to take three weeks
going down the west coast towards Perth. We will be travelling in convoy
with at least 6 other backpacker friends (which we are very excited
about as we are yet to do a road trip with other people).

Lastly Sarah (from Matsos) is flying home to Margaret River
(just south of Perth) at the end of January. This should coincide with us
arriving down there as Shogo needs to renew his passport by the end of

Plans for what comes after that are vague. We are running out of
new ground to cover so it is likely that we will settle down somewhere
again soon. We have heard that Margaret River is beautiful (and we
have contacts for jobs) so perhaps well stay there.

The sunsets of Cable Beach (unedited)

The Japanese Cemetery

Thank you for reading!

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B. Campbell and J. Baker-Edwards, White Ford Falcon Station Wagon, Somewhere in Australia | 0401 514 832 |