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CIRCULAR KNITTED FABRICS

@ TEA-ERC 27-10-2009

Presentation by
CBC Fashions Asia Pvt Ltd.,
Tirupur – India

Any Errors in the


presentation write to
info@cbc.co.in
Types of Fabrics
Woven Fabrics Knitted Fabrics
- Warp/Weft - Loop formation
- Varieties are Poplin, - Varieties are Jersey,
Corduroy, Flannel, RIB, Interlock,
Denim, Drill, etc., Pique, Fleece, etc.,
- Looms - Knitting machines
- Flat Knit
- Circular Knit
Knitted Fabrics

Major Fabric Main Parameters


Structures • GSM
• Single Jersey • Width
• RIB
• Shrinkage
• Interlock
Any deviation in the
All our knitted fabrics
are 90% based on above parameters
these 3 Kinds only lead to heavy loss
Construction of
Circular Knitted Fabrics
• Our conventional method of fabric construction
is basically Trial and Error Method which is
time and cost consuming
• Using Starfish Predictions from Cotton
Technology International we can construct our
fabrics based on calculations
• Main aspect for fabric construction is the Fabric
Feeling or Tightness Factor (TF)
Fabrics Based on Feeling

• Tight Fabric – Problems – Streks, Needle Holes,


Holes, Colour shading, Slubs etc
• Loose Fabric – Problems – See thru, Shrinkage,
Spirality, Unstable, Deform etc
• Normal Fabric – Good, optimum performance,
proper fit, retains shape, stable, clean and
smooth surface etc.,
Tightness Factor
• How to differentiate the Tight fabric,
Loose Fabric and Normal fabric?
• Tightness Factor is the proper
measuring tool for the fabric feeling.
• TF = √Tex Count ÷ LL in cms for 1 loop
• Tex Count = 590.46/Ne Count

• Ex. Tex Count = 590.46/30’s = 19.682


• Ex. TF = √19.682 ÷ .29 = 15.29
TF value for Regular Fabrics

S.Jersey Rib 1 x 1Interlock2T Fleece

Normal 15.5 15.5 12.5 15 Face /


1.5 Loop
Innerwear 14.5 14.5 12.0

TF is inversely proportional to LL and so


Outerwea 16.5 16.5 13.5
if LL is more then TF=14 is Less which means the fabric is
rmore loose if LL is less then TF=18 is more which means the
fabric is more tight
Using Star Fish Predictions
• Based on the TF we need to construct our fabrics using
the Star Fish predictions
• Width GSM and Shrinkage is affected mainly due to Yarn
Count and LL.
• Diameter, Gauge, RPM, No of Needles, Feeders per Inch
are not much important factor for cost saving.
• If you exactly know Finishing GSM, Finishing Dia, Finishing
Shrinkage, Exact Yarn Count, Machine Gauge and
Machine Limitations, then the star fish predictions can
help you select the knitting Dia.
• Gauge is selected based on the yarn count selected
Tex Count From Yarn

• Lea Method – Need Length in yards


and Weight in grams
• Count = 64.8/Lea Weight in grams
• 1 Lea = 120 yards
• 80 rotations in Wrap Reel = 120 yard
• 1 rotation in wrap reel = 1.5 yards
• 7 lea = 1 hanks = 840 yards
Tex Count From Fabric
• Tex Count = (Yarn Length in Inches ÷ Weight
in grams ) x 0.015
Or
• Tex Count = ( Yarn Length in cms ÷ Weight in
grams) x 0.0059

• Find out the LL from fabric is unraveling


• Then do find yarn count from the above
• Construct your fabrics
• No of 840 yards in 1 pound = Count
• 1 pound = 454 grams
• 1 yard = 0.914 mtrs
• 120 yards = 1 Lea
• 7 Leas = 7 x 120 yds = 840 yds = 1 hanks
• 454gms ÷ 7 Lea = 64.8 gms for 1 lea of 1’s
• 840 yds = 1 hanks = 1 pound or 454 gms
• 1 pound = 1 x 840 yds = 840 yds = 1’s
• 1 pound = 2 x 840 yds = 1680 yds = 2’s
• 1 pound = 10 x 840 yds = 8400 yds = 10’s
• 1 pound = 20 x 840 yds = 16800 yds = 20’s
Single Jersey 150 gsm 30’s count 24gg
Knitting Quality Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3

Yarn Count, Ne30 28.5 28.5


Stitch Length mm2.68 2.84 2.852
Course Length in cm604.6 640.7 643.4
Tightness Factor Cgs16.56 16.03 15.96
Finishing
Course/cm20.08 18.88
Wales/CM14.97 14.27
Weight g/sq.mtr150.7 150.6 150.1
Width cm29.64 31.1 36
Yield m/Kg4.4 4.2
Length Shrinkage5 5 5
Width Shirnkage5 5 5
The star fish predictions are available
for
- Single Jersey
- 1 x 1 Rib
- 2 x 2 Rib
- Interlock
- 2t Fleece
- 2 Tuck Pique
- 1 Tuck Pique
Benetton 8110 2 x 2 Rib Live Example

• 2 x 2 Rib 220 gsm required


• Selected count 30’s so gauge 18
• LL = 27.5 cms for K.Dia = 26
• Actual count = 27.8Ne = Tex 21.23
• TF = 16.75
• Result GSM=240, width=16 Shrinkage = L -1% & W-5%
• LL can be raised to 29.5 to get lesser gsm with same count or try to get
exact count at 28.5 then the LL @ 28.5cms.
• Result awaited.
Quality Customer Service
• By doing the fabric construction in the
scientific way we can construct a good fabric,
with exact requirements regarding the gsm,
width and shrinkage, by this way we can save
a lot of time and money, which is ultimately
resulting in the customer satisfaction.
• Construct your fabric and take 1 mtr of fabric
and do 3 times washing and 3 times tumble
dry and review the resultant GSM and
Resultant Dia. Shrinkage is Nil.
More Information Contact

• Mr.Balakrishnan, Bala’s School of Knitting


• Fabric consultant - Tirupur
• +919443132940
• balas@realknit.com

• Take Experts Advice and Save Money