artes, 22 de septiembre de 2009

Construcción de obstáculos: la rueda
Nuevamente nos ponemos manos a la obra contruyendo obstáculos; esta vez, la rueda.
La estructura está armada en total con 5 tubos de 1 metro, 4 conectores en forma de T y
2 codos; para hacer la rueda utilicé una manguera de plástico y fijé a la estructura con
una cuerda de algodón.

La estructura

La rueda El toque de color .

Cha chaaaaaaaaaaan!!! .

Otra opción es hacer las patas más largas.Para evitar que él obstáculo se dé vuelta utilicé clavos. .

The height of the hoop should not be lowe directly mounted in a substantial frame structure which must b dogs cannot knock the obstacle over from either direction.5ins).Aperture diameter 533mm (1ft 9ins) minimum ground: Large Dogs – 800mm (2ft 7. Unfortunately the Kennel Club changed the regs after the end of the swimming season. The best way to prevent accidents and injuries is to train under controlled co at an angle or at the end of a line of jumps and I don't let Sasha take it at full speed. Hoop-(Tyre) . co absorbing material.3ins).Por supuesto. so I bought 2 metres of pipe insulation as shown on the far right. Training If your dog is new to agility he or she will need to learn the tyre jump under the sup trainer. I thought of buying a swimming noodle like the ones pictured right. The hoop to be of a consistent shape. These could be bent into a ring shape with the ends taped together. Making a tyre jump First of all you'll need to buy something to make the hoop part of the new tyre. . or you can buy a connector that will do the job for you. Medium Dogs – 55 – 490mm (1ft 7. la Julieta estuvo gustosa de posar para mostrar el obstáculo terminado The tyre jump should conform to the following regulations. the across the top.

If you are constructing a frame for a tyre jum substantial so that it doesn't blow over in the by a big dog like Jamie. After a li finished and it was time to try it out on Sasha. At firs but the chain pulled through the insulation when I t is the only one likely to use it I decided that I could duck tape. Finally I wound some of the tape round the botto paw would be less likely to damage it. left and our attempts to catch Sasha going throug . T we couldn't catch her actually going through it. different feet but this is only because original tyre and I needed some extra For ou the upr struts t The pipe insulation was easily bent so that the ends form a hoop. I was a bit stumped as to how I shoul insulation isn't as tough as a motorbike tyre. The design can va you have at hand but it mustn't have a cross To make the frame I used the same principle construction shown left. but in the tyre jump measure 118cm.

Bores produce (feet) smoother holes and go through  4 1½" PVC pipe end caps drainage tubing better than bits. pipe cutter. Have I really got to let Jamie have a go? My go!!! I can jump it at that height. They're  2 1½" PVC 4-Way Tees also easier to find in the ½" size)  2 1½" PVC Elbows  Screwdriver  8 1" x 1" eye bolts (1" diam x 1" stem)  Tape measure/yard stick  8 wing toggles (*See alternative below) . Our humans never seem to know what they want these days.Weeeeeeee!!! This is fun. They're  4 pieces 15" x 1½" schedule 40 PVC found in the same section as drill bits in your hardware store. or sawz-all  2 pieces 48" x 1½" schedule 40 PVC (top and bottom bars)  Drill  2 pieces 60" x 1½" schedule 40 PVC  ½" bore (A bore resembles a drill bit but (uprights) has a sharply pointed center. but if you insist I suppose I'd better on its side. STORE Build It Yourself Agility Equipment Tire Jump Equipment Parts (one complete jump)  Saw. yes I can.

Holes in bottom bar should point up (inside of jump frame) 10. however. PVC Cement sets fast. Repeat process at 9 o'clock and 12 o'clock holes 8. Holes in top bar should point down (inside of jump frame). Use mending link to attach chain to 12 o'clock eye in tire 7. Cap ends of feet Tire 1. Insert 60" pvc piece (upright) into upright joint of 4-Way Tee 8. or bottom bars if you will ever need to knock down your Tire Jump for transport or storage.. joining uprights with top and bottom bars making sure everything looks correct. Bore ½" hole at each mark 4. Insert through hole until the wing toggle springs open 6. Choose one piece of pipe as your frame top and mark at 24" (center) 4. removing PVC pieces from joints and dabbing PVC cement inside openings of the joints. Quickly re-insert pipe taking care everything is pointing in the correct direction. Gluing the feet is recommended. 3. Place washer on 1" x 1" eye bolt and thread wing toggle.  PVC cement Marker  White out or light-colored paint pen        3 washers 92" of 4" flexible drainage pipe 2 36" cloth-covered bungees 24" plastic landscaping chain 1 mending link for landscaping chain 1 carabiner 5 cable ties  colorful duct/tarp tape Directions Frame 1.. 5. Run bungee through 3 o'clock eye bolt . and 9 o'clock positions on the outside of the tire with White Out or paint pen. using overlap as 12 o'clock 3. Attach carabiner to top center eye 6. If your Tire Jump is permanent. Repeat steps 5-8 for opposite side. DON'T GLUE sides. Insert bottom 48" pvc piece into remaining opening of 4-Way Tee with holes pointing up 7. Bore ½" hole through upper wall of both pipes at marks 3. Insert two 15" pvc pieces (feet) into base of 4-Way Tee 6.adjust as needed 2. Mark 12 o'clock. Mark spot 8" from each end of both 48" pvc pieces 2. Make sure you know which direction your joint should face before you glue! 11. 2. Place washer on 1" x 1" eye bolt and thread wing toggle. Bore ½" hole at mark through upper wall of top pipe 5. Repeat process for each hole in top and bottom bars 5. Form drainage tubing into ring. Attach PVC elbow on top of upright 9. top. Measure to make sure Tire has 24" inner diameter. Tighten by putting your screwdriver through the eye and turning 4. overlapping edges about 4". Hand tighten 7. Insert through first hole in top bar until the wing toggle springs open. glue joints one by one. 3 o'clock. Attach chain to carabiner to hang tire 8. Stripe tire as desired Assembly 1. Duct tape seam well 9.

Repeat for 9 o'clock eye bolt 11. These nifty toggles are sold separate from the bolts. and have a builtin plastic mounting handle and washer that makes them much easier to work with. ask for Toggler ® brand toggle bolts in the ¼" . Snap each end of bungee to eye at top and bottom of frame 10. Decorate your Tire Jump with Duct or Tarp tape *Alternative to Wing Toggles If you have a good building supply store. Bend the plastic toggler applicator to insert the nut into the tire. Determine which link the tire should hang from for each jump height and fasten a cable tie to mark each 12. Pull the toggle flush to the inside wall of the tire. and slide the plastic washer up the applicator (like a cable tie) until snug. [ See Picture 1 | Picture 2] Drill the same ½" hole.20 size. Break off app .9.

Tools You will need your PVC cutter. a marker and a measuring tape or ruler. The secret to our cups is to raid the do-it-yourself irrigation section at Home Depot. The smaller pipe for the cross pieces will be easier on your dog’s paws if they do strike the bar. Assembly . Materials Each cup will require one saddle piece and one 2″ section of 1″ diameter PVC pipe. Making cups this way means that your cross-pieces need to be ¾” pipe (ideally). You need two cups to hold up one bar. 2008 Adjustable cups for holding cross-bars make constructing standard ju mping obstacles a piece of cake.Adjustable Jump Cups   Posted by rogerlos April 13. Each cup will take just a few minutes to make and cost about $1. The clip-on part of the cup is sold as a “1-inch Snap On Saddle” for irrigation systems and can be found (usually) sharing the same aisle as the pipe fittings. too.

but it is sharp. The cutter cuts as slowly as you squeeze. this will guide you when making the cut partially through the pipe. and on the right is a two inch section of 1″ diameter PVC pipe.Important Safety Note: When you use the PVC cutter to make the lengthwise cuts in the PVC pipe. Make a pen mark ¾” from the end of the pipe. you are using it in a way it was not designed for. It’s pretty safe but take your time and be very aware of where your fingers are when you’re making the lengthwise cuts. . so be careful! Here are the (uncleaned) pieces you need to make one cup. On the left is the “Snap Saddle” as can be seen from its label.

as illustrated above. I eyeballed it by looking at the cutter from above to ensure the mark was under the blade. open the jaws and use a rotating motion parallel to the blade . but you could be more precise by extended the mark out to the end of the pipe. This is what your pipe will look like when you remove it from the cutter.Using the mark you made. cut a little more than halfway through the pipe. Certain professional organizations have precise measurements for the depth of the cup. but “a bit more than halfway” is fine for casual agility. I have made a mark on the pipe to guide me as I place the blade to make the long cut. To remove the partially cut pipe from the cutter. .

and when I squeeze the cutter I am doing so very slowly. slowly and with awareness at all times of where your hand is in relation to the blade. but don’t be tempted to try both cuts at once. proceed very slowly for best results. You may wish to open the cutter and adjust the pipe so the blade is closer to perpendicular to the pipe for a neater finish. Do one side at a time. Use your hand to hold the pipe firmly in place as you start the cut (see above illustration). Starting the cut is the only tricky part. As you approach your previous cut. You cutter will probably not open wide enough in any case. though keeping a bit of pressure on the pipe will make it easier. the cutter will pretty much finish the cut itself. . I’m using the cutter for a purpose other than which it was designed. I have a firm grip on the pipe. the pipe will want to push away from the blade. Once it is started. Here the cut is almost complete. my fingers are out of the way.As mentioned in the safety note above.

Repeat the process for the other side. The piece is almost done! . Both cuts are complete.The cut is complete.

Cups made this way will use 1″ cross bars. Related posts: Bar Jump or Hurdle. The cups will work fine even if they are a few degrees out of “perfect” when the glue sets. I’ve seen (on eBay) at least one enterprising person making clip-on cups out of “T” connectors by cutting them down. These are undoubtedly handsome. cutting out enough of the back side to allow them to slip over a section of pipe. Note that this join is a pretty tight fit. assuming you use 1″ “T” connectors on 1″ uprights. Alternatives for Jump Cups. but would be a lot of work for the casual home enthusiast to construct. You do so by using a saw to mimic the cuts we made here on the “90 degree” side of the “T”. Use enough glue and press it firmly home using pressure on the inside of the saddle and the remaining “entire circle” section of the pipe. all this needs to be complete is some glue (see the top image of this post for a pair of completed cups). and making the cup part.Dry fitted together. . so you will probably not be able to smoothly twist it into place. Alternative Designs You can make permanent jump cups out of “T” connectors.