It's a rugged, beefy craft designed to take the wildest rapids in stride, but tame enough to slip quietly into any shallow fishing inlet under oars. Best of all, you can build it for about $100

• IT'S A REAL THOROUGHBRED, this high-riding river sled. Evolved over a lifetime of white-water experience by famed riverman Glen Wooldridge, it features a fast-rising bow which lifts easily over the largest riffles. This, combined with steeply flaring sides and a long flat after section, gives the boat tremendous lift, excellent maneuverability and unbelievably shallow draft. Glen's typical power rig is a mid-range outboard equipped with one of those husky jet-drive lower units from Outboard Jets. Such a setup

Riverboat built for white water


riverboat white-water riverboat, continued perfect alignment, the use of a building jig is advisable, but this can be made of any secondary lumber, if straight. The template for laying out the frames can be made from 3/8-in. plywood or other relatively cheap material. The template layout dimensions give the placement of the five nail "pegs" to form the frames. Use small blocks to keep rib tips level. Incidentally, except for the jig, all dimensions of the lumber used in the boat are net. Thus, the 3/4 x 3-in. frames and ribs are exactly that size. All nails should be galvanized, and bolts and scr br< me res gr: or or ad pr. m< loi tin

gives the boat maximum shallow-water capability. I've been aboard when he's skimmed over 4-in.-deep riffles without touching bottom. Best of all, it's very easily built and performs well with any outboard motor from 18 to 60 or more horses, depending upon the boat's size and the load carried. (The plans show an overall length of 16 ft. 10 in., but a 15-ft. 8-in. or 19-ft. 2-in. hull can be made by removing or adding one frame just ahead of the transom.) To assure


screws either galvanized, cadmium-plated or bronze. For salt-water use, bronze is recommended. In addition to these fastenings, waterresistant glue should be used on all joints. Wood recommended for this boat is firstgrade, straight-grained, clear spruce, Douglas fir or white cedar. All plywood should be exterior or marine grade and fiberglassing is definitely advisable. The construction follows standard procedure—frames are assembled first and then mounted on the building jig, after which the longitudinal members are installed and, finally, the planking.

You may have to soak the chine strips in order to get the proper bend. Just wrap them in an old blanket, towels or ourlap, and pour on boiling water. Pour on more hot water after about 15 min. and then let them set until nearly cool. Bending them will then be much easier. If you plan to use a jet drive on the motor, leave the transom full height in the center. For a long-shaft, propeller-type lower unit, notch it to 20 in. and for a standard lower unit on the motor notch to 15 in. as shown. If you use both jet and propeller drives, notch it to suit the propeller motor, and either make a detachable transom piece to bolt in place or obtain one of Glen's transom brackets for this purpose. cut and shape the keels Cut and shape the keels as shown in the drawing. Then drill and countersink holes in the iron straps—one near each end and two between each pair of frames—to accept the heads of 3/16 x 1-1/2in. flathead machine screws. Bevel the front ends of the keels so the straps will fit over them smoothly, and bevel the tips of the straps to prevent snagging grass. If you decide not to fiberglass the bottom, use glue and the 3/16-in. machine screws, nuts and washers to attach the keels. If fiberglass is used, the keels may be covered with it. Put the seams on the keel bottoms so the straps cover them, and apply a coat of the resin to the keel-to-boatbottom joints. Make two transom supports by flattening 2 in. of the ends of two 7/8 x 30-in. pieces of electrical conduit and then attaching them to the transom 16 in. from (and level with) the gunwales, and also to the gunwales. Put small spacer blocks between the inner and outer gunwales at the points of contact and use 5/16 x 4-in. carriage bolts to fasten the supports. Use 5/16 x 2-1/4in. bolts through the transom and transom posts. Give the inside of the boat two coats of a dull, nonglare marine paint. (Light, bright paint is tough on the eyes.) If, as Glen does, you like to stand erect when running white water, use the 3/8 x 36-in.-wide plywood rear floor piece shown. Otherwise, the floor strips can run the full length of the boat.




The hull framing is assembled right side up on the building jig, which can be made from any straight lumber. The jig assures perfect alignment