How to fix your automati

MALFUNCTION in your automatic washer usually affects a basic function: fill, wash (agitation), drain or spin. The troubleshooting charts on these four pages will help you pinpoint a problem and correct it. To determine what the common components look like and their location, re-

A

fer to the illustration below. It's a composite that's typical of most machines. When testing electrical components, consult your machine's wiring diagram, which is glued on the back of, or inside, the machine. The chart on page 69 will help you interpret the electrical symbols.

COMMON WASHER COMPONENTS
VALVES CONSOLE COVER WATER-TEMPERATURE PUSHBUTTON PANEL WATER-LEVEL PRESSURE SWITCH TIMER DIAL (CYCLE VARIABLES)

WATERINLET HOSES CARTRIDGE FILTER

WATER-INLET HOSE

COLD

TUB RING

HOT

DISPENSER

AGITATOR

DRAIN HOSE, TO STANDPIPE OR LAUNDRY TUB

TUB

BASKET

PUMP GUARD

THREE-PRONG PLUG BRACE

MOTOR

TRANSMISSION SHOCK ABSORBER DRIVE BELT LEVELING FOOT DRIVE CLUTCH

PUMP

TWO-WAY VALVE

Illustration by Adolph Brotman POPULAR MECHANICS

66

washer
To test the timer, turn the control knob slowly from the "Off" position before the regular cycle to the spot in the cycle where the machine isn't working properly as you count the number of increments (clicks). Count the corresponding increments on the timer cam chart and determine which Washer doesn't fill
Water
CAUSE ACTION TO TAKE*

terminals should be closed. Timer contact terminals are marked on the timer and timer cam chart by a letter or numerical code. Connect a 115-v. test light to the terminals and turn on the machine. If the test light fails to light, the timer is faulty in that model and should be replaced. * * *

valve

1. Water faucet(s) closed. 2. Water inlet hoses kinked. 3. Clogged water valve screens. 4. Damaged water valve solenoid. 5. Defective timer. 6. Defective water temperature switch. 7. Defective waterlevel pressure switch.

Open faucet(s). Straighten hoses.
DIAPHRAGM

Remove screens and flush out sediment. Remove leads and connect a 115-v. test light across terminals, turn on electricity and move control knob to "Fill." No light signifies a bad solenoid. Replace. Test as described in text above. Remove leads and connect a 115-v. test light across terminals, turn on electricity and move control knob to "Fill." No light signifies a bad solenoid. Replace. The switch normally has three terminals. With switch in "Fill" position there is contact between two of the terminals with the third terminal "open." Make sure you connect a 115-v. test light across the terminals affecting "Fill." Consult the wiring diagram. Turn on electricity and move control knob to "Fill." No light signifies a bad solenoid. Replace. Disassemble water valve and check each part for damage, paying particular attention to the guide assembly and diaphragm. Replace the bad part, if possible. If not, replace the whole valve. Using the wiring diagram as a guide, probe each wire connection with a 115-v. test light to determine if defective wiring or a loose connection is causing the problem. Be sure control knob is at "Fill" position.
COIL

SPRING

8. Water valve internal malfunction. 9. Open circuit.

"After taking each "action," reconnect power and test operation, but be sure to pull plug from wall receptacle before continuing.

Water pump

HOUSING

Washer doesn't drain
CAUSE
1. Kinked drain hose; clogged drain. 2. Broken or slipping drive belt. 3. Defective pump. ACTION TO TAKE Straighten hose; clear drain. Replace or tighten. Usually pump is clogged or impeller goes bad. Pump may be taken apart for cleaning or replacement of defective parts, or it may be replaced as a unit. If tile motor doesn't kick into "Drain," test timer as described in text above. Also check for open circuit, Be sure the control knob is set to "Drain" position.

4. Defective timer and open circuit.

JANUARY

1973

Washer doesn't agitate (wash)
CAUSE ACTION TO TAKE* Replace or tighten. Remove the drive belt and turn the clutch by hand with the control knob in the "Wash" (agitate) position. If there is no "grab," the clutch is defective and should be replaced. With the drive belt off, manually rotate the transmission pulley in agitate direction (usually clockwise) with control knob in "Wash" (agitate) position. If this doesn't drive the agitator, the problem is in the transmission. Test as described in text (pages 66 to 67). When water has filled the tub, contact reverts to the third terminal of this switch and to one of the other two terminals. The remaining terminal reverts to "Open" position. Make sure to connect a 115-v. test Eight across the terminals affecting "Filled." Consult the wiring diagram. Turn on the electricity and move the control knob to "Wash." No light signifies that you have a bad switch. Using the wiring diagram as a guide, probe each wire connection with a 115-v, test light to determine if either defective wiring or a loose connection is causing the problem. Make certain that the control knob is set at the "Wash" position,

1. Broken or slipping drive belt.
2. Defective drive clutch.

3. Defective transmission.

4. Defective timer. 5. Faulty waterlevel pressure.

Timer

6. Open circuit.

*After taking each "action," reconnect power and test operation, but be sure to pull plug from wall receptacle before continuing.

Washer doesn't spin or spins slowly
CAUSE 1. Broken or slipping drive belt. ACTION TO TAKE Replace or tighten. Tighten pulley. Test as described under "Washer doesn't agitate," Cause 2 (above); be sure control knob is in "Spin" position. The brake is not part of the transmission, but since they are attached and work together, they are checked as a unit. Set control knob in "Spin" position and remove drive belt. Turn brake stator; it should move freely. If not, the brake assembly or transmission is defective. Both units can be repaired. If motor doesn't kick into "Spin," test timer as in text (pages 66-67). Also check for open circuit. Be sure the control knob is set to the "Spin" position.

Watertemperature switch

2. Loose motor pulley. 3. Defective drive clutch. 4. Spin brake doesn't release or transmission is frozen.

5. Defective timer or open circuit.

Abide by the following precautions:
Water-level pressure switch • Be sure that electricity is turned off before handling components. • Turn off water when working on water-handling components, such as the water valve. • Before replacing an electrical component you believe is faulty, make certain that a loose connection isn't causing the problem. • After replacing an electrical component, tighten connections. • Before reconnecting your electrical service, see to it that ground wires are tightly attached. • Make sure that water connections I are secure. • Install replacement parts that meet factory specification. You can't go wrong using parts made by the manufacturer of the washer. POPULAR MECHANICS

68

Motor doesn't run
CAUSE 1. Electrical service cord isn't plugged in; blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker; possible malfunction in branch circuit. 2. Defective tinier. 3. Defective lid switch. ACTION TO TAKE* Be sure that plug is connected and fuse or circuit breaker is okay. If there is no power at the wall receptacle, check the circuit.

TRANSMISSION PULLEY

Test as described in text (pages 66-67). Many models have a switch in the lid which automatically turns the washer off if door is open during cycling. If the machine refuses to operate with the lid closed, connect a test light across the lid switch. No light indicates a faulty switch. Replace. Most motors are protected by an internal overload circuit breaker that stops operation if the motor overheats. If this protective device halts motor operation, but the motor can be started again after about 30 minutes, consider the following conditions: (a) If the motor trips off when the machine goes into the spin cycle, the cause of trouble may be in the clutch, brake or transmission—not the motor. To find out, remove transmission drive belts and let the motor operate. If it doesn't trip off now, there is no motor problem. (b) If the motor operates in agitate position, but won't operate in spin position or vice versa, check timer and lid switch, and look for broken wire before condemning the motor. This possibility always exists, so before you rip the motor out of the machine conduct continuity tests with your test light at each wire connection.
1/2" 1/2"
SPIN PULLEY

4. Defective motor.

PUMP
PULLEY

1/2"

5. Open circuit.

PROPER belt tension is reached when you can deflect it ½ in. Minimum belt tension after extended use should be 15 pounds. To check this, hook spring scale at midpoint and note what force is required to deflect the belt 1 in.

*After taking each "action," reconnect power and test operation, but be sure to pull plug from wall receptacle before continuing.

Symbols found in wiring diagrams
ITEM Ballast Adj. Thermostat Thermocouple Neon light Transformer Thermistor Transistor Diode (rectifier) Rectifier (controlled) Coil and switches Motor, single speed Motor, multispeed JANUARY 1973 None None None None None None

OLD

NEW

ITEM Terminal Timer motor Plug connector Starter (automatic) Light (incandescent) Pressure sw. Fluorescent Coil Capacitor Resistor Centrifugal sw Thermostat

OLD

NEW

ITEM Double-throw thermostat Internal conductor Harness wire Permanent connection 3-prong plug Timer sw. Automatic sw. Manual sw. Double throw Crossover Heater (wattage shown) Ground

OLD

NEW

2800

2800w.

69