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POWERCYCLE
with detachable carrying cart
By JOE McBRIDE

T

HIS animated short snorter w i l l barrel you along at 35 mph. When the fun's over, you can tuck it into your car or boat with ease. Lifting is no problem; it weighs only 55 pounds. When equipped with the detachable side cart (Fig. 2), the scooter b e c o m e s a practical package carrier for shopping or special delivery service, or a tool carrier for farm and field servicemen. With some alteration in size and shape the same method of building and attaching this cart can be applied to adding a Speeding along on the powercycle at 35 miles per hour, side cart not attached. side cart to any power scooter. Although we used a 2-stroke cycle Clinton ing the Chevrolet propellor shaft to length A400 engine, almost any 2- or 4-stroke cycle as given in Fig. 5A. Chuck, or tack-weld a engine having a maximum of 2-1/2 hp could block on the tube end of the shaft for a be used. The lightweight, vertical cylinder, center, and mount the prop shaft in a metalhorizontal shaft, 4-cycle engines, such as the turning lathe. The lathe w i l l have to have a Clinton A2100 or Briggs and Stratton 6B or 3-ft. between-centers capacity. 6B-5, offer some advantages over the 2-cycles If you do not have a lathe to do the work in that they can be throttled down to run yourself, it w i l l pay you to have the front smoothly at slow speeds, are easier to start fork (Fig. 6A) ready for machining, too, so and do not require mixing of oil with the gas. that you can have all of the lathe work Do not, however, use any of the heavy cast needed to build this cycle done at one time. iron engines since their additional weight The front fork is made from a Mercury located off center on this small powercycle sway bar which is heat-treated spring steel tend to make steering difficult and erratic. and may be a little too hard for sawing and So then, you'll have transportation for your- machining without first annealing. To anself (Fig. 1) plus load carrying capacity with neal the bar, heat it to a dull red and allow this little side-cart equipped powercycle, and it to cool slowly. You can do this with an the cart (Fig. 2) can be detached in the time acetylene torch or, better still, if there is an automobile spring shop or heat treating firm it takes you to loosen three bolts. Since the shape and size of the frame mem- in your area, have them heat the entire bar in their furnace. bers must be determined by the size of other After machining the front and rear axles, matching parts, have on hand all of the parts given in the Materials List before starting assemble the wheels on them to make certain everything fits well. Then lay out and actual construction. Making the Cycle Frame. Begin by hacksaw- cut the two bending templates from sheet

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metal as in Fig. 5. When bending the rear axle and f r o n t fork, grip the stock in a vise and use an acetylene torch to heat just those areas of the stock that you are bending. Heat to a bright red and do not hold the torch too long or too close at one spot. If the metal starts to sparkle, it indicates it is burning and is too hot. Do not quench w i t h water to cool b u t allow to cool slowly to room temperature. An 18-in. length of 1//2-in. black iron pipe w i t h one end d r i l l e d out to 5/8 i n . (so that it can be slipped over the ends turned down for the axles) w i l l protect the machined surfaces and give you the leverage needed for bending. Use the bending templates to check the amount and angle of the bends occasionally. F i n a l accuracy of bend must be checked by mounting the wheels w i t h tires. Wheel centers must be in line w i t h centerlines of shafts and have clearance for tires. A l l o w space for installation of fender on front fork. Note that the front fork has a secondary bend, other than those shown on the template, of 2 i n . f o r w a r d for wheel caster effect. The rear axle arm is bent 15° f r o m centerline of tube as in frame assembly drawing Fig. 5. Cut the f o r k bushing (Fig. 6B) f r o m 1/2-in. pipe and r u n a 5/8-in. d r i l l through it to clean

up the inside so that the bushing w i l l slide on the turned portion of the front fork. Then flatten the end of the frame tube ( A ) , and file the top and bottom edges of the tube half-round to take the f o r k bushing at 85° as in the frame assembly drawing Fig. 5. A f t e r welding the bushing to the frame, again d r i l l it out because the heat of welding may have distorted it somewhat. Use the cut-off piece of prop shaft tubing for the seat support (Fig. 5 B ) . G r i n d or file the end of the support to fit t i g h t l y against the frame tube. This operation, w h i c h is commonly called "fishmouthing" the end of a tube, w i l l make welding a lot easier because you w i l l not have gaps to fill. If you are going to use a Clinton engine as we did, weld the seat support to frame A, locating its center 12 in. f r o m the rear end of the frame tube as in the frame assembly, Fig. 5. If you are going to use a Briggs and Stratton aluminum vertical cylinder engine, locate the seat support 10 i n . f r o m the rear end of the frame tube. Then heat and bend the foot rest (C in Fig. 6 ) , and weld it to the frame tube right in back of the seat support. To determine the angle at which the remaining parts are welded to the frame, tern-

SURPLUS and SALVAGE PROJECTS

Small passengers only; and give them a cautious ride.

porarily assemble the front and rear wheels on their axles. Then slide the ball thrust bearing on the front fork and insert the fork through the fork bushing on the frame. Place one tie-rod clamp at the top of the fork bushing over the saw slot and another clamp above it on front fork shaft (Fig. 4). To support the cycle and keep it in an upright position while you work on it, make up a wooden stand from scrap 1 x 4-in. stock as in Fig. 2A. Place the stand under the foot rest, and weld the seat post to the top of the seat support so that it is parallel with the floor. Hacksaw the gusset from a piece of 1/8 x 1-in. strip steel and weld it to the corner where the seat post joins the seat support as in the frame assembly Fig. 5. If you are using the vertical cylinder engine with the seat support located closer to the rear, you w i l l not need the gusset and w i l l need a seat post only 5 in. long. Engine Installation. While you are at the auto wrecking yards have the yard man cut you the two engine supports (Fig. 7A) with an acetylene torch. To save time at the yards, make up paper patterns of the engine supports and have them ready so that you can place them on an old car frame channel and draw around them with chalk. Have the yard man cut off a 2 x 2-1/2-in. piece of 1/8-in. thick steel for the brake, too. Grind smooth the rough-cut edges of the engine supports and

weld them to the frame as in Figs. 4 and 7A. Reinforce the rear engine support with 1/4-in. steel rods welded in place. The best V-belt pulley to use for the rear wheel is a 7-in. dia. water pump pulley from a Chevy, Olds, or Buick because it has an offset center which provides clearance for the tire. Cut out the center of the pulley and braze it to the rim of the rear wheel at four places as in Fig 4. Then reassemble the wheel and mount it on rear axle with nut and pin. Now, with a V-Plex automatic clutch on the engine drive shaft, place the plywood and engine on the engine supports as in Fig. 4. Line up the V-belt pulley on the engine with the one on the rear wheel and measure the size V-belt needed. After purchasing the belt, place it on the pulleys and mark the location of the engine mounting holes on the engine supports. D r i l l these holes 3/8-in. and bolt the engine in place. To take up belt stretch later, a piece of plywood 1/4 to 3/4-in. thick may be placed under the engine base as in Fig. 4. The performance of the Clinton A400 engine can be improved by opening up the baffle plates inside the muffler (A in Fig. 9). Weld the exhaust holes closed and for a new exhaust opening, weld a 3-in. length of 3/4-in. conduit to the muffler. If you are going to use the side car on the cycle, weld another 3-in. length of conduit to the exhaust opening as in the side view Fig. 9 to direct the hot

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gasses away f r o m the side of the car. Handle Bars. M a k e the handle bars f r o m a '48 F o r d tie r o d , bending and w e l d i n g t h e m as in F i g . 7B. W e l d a 3/8 x 2-1/2-in. cap screw to the r i g h t h a n d side of the handle bar for m o u n t i n g the t h r o t t l e control handle (made f r o m 3/4-in. conduit as in F i g . 7 B ) . W e l d the throttle-cable support to the underside of the handle bar and slide the cable t h r o u g h it. Thread or spot braze the end of the cable to the supporting 3/8-in. nut. The w i r e inside the control cable is fastened to the swivel clamp bolted to the conduit handle. R u n the cable back along the cycle frame and connect it to the carburetor t h r o t t l e lever. Disconnect and remove the engine governor linkage, and change the lever (B in F i g . 9 ) . Fenders are r e q u i r e d by law in some states for licensed scooters. We made ours f r o m

pieces of car body sheet metal w h i c h is soft and can be easily cut and bent to the shapes shown in Fig. 8. Brake. Be sure to use 1/2-in. r o u n d , water hardening tool steel for the brake lever because o r d i n a r y cold-rolled m i l d steel m a y bend out of shape and leave y o u w i t h o u t brakes. M a k e the brake as detailed in F i g . 7C and m o u n t it on a 1/2 x 3-in. cap screw welded to underside of the frame as in brake assembly F i g . 6. D r i l l the threads o u t of the 1/2-in. hex n u t welded to the foot b r a k e so that the n u t w i l l slide on the cap screw. T h e n r u n a 1/2-in. h e x n u t on the cap screw to r e t a i n the brake lever. This same n u t is used for the k i c k stand, too. Be sure the n u t is on the cap screw before w e l d i n g the k i c k stand ( F i g . 6D) to it because it w o u l d be impossible to install the k i c k stand other-

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wise. The nut must also have enough thread drag or f r i c t i o n to hold the k i c k stand in the up position. If the nut is too loose, collapse it slightly by squeezing in a vise before installing it. W i t h the exception of lights and a horn, required by some states before you can get a scooter license, your powercycle should be complete and ready for a test r u n . The horn can be the rubber b u l b type available at auto parts and dime stores. The lights (head light and tail light) can be operated by a #6 d r y cell battery or the type used for bicycles. Side Cart. The best procedure to follow in making and assembling the side cart to the powercycle you have b u i l t is to cut and fit the four cart frame pieces (Fig. 2) i n d i v i d u ally. Start by making the axle extension f r o m a 20-1/2-in. length of 1/2-in. i r o n pipe. Weld a 5/8 x 2-1/2-in. cap screw on one end, and heat and flatten the other end. Make up three cart attachment lugs as in Fig. 2B and bolt one to the flattened end of the axle extension. Then, w i t h the wheel mounted on the axle extension and the cycle blocked in the upright position on the floor, place the l u g end of the axle extension against the

rear axle a r m of the cycle as in Fig. 2. Cut a couple of 2 x 2 in. blocks to hold the axle extension level w i t h the floor and at right angles to the cycle frame. If you are doing your own welding, tack-weld the lug to the rear axle a r m of the cycle. Otherwise, clamp or w i r e the l u g to the arm. Caution: Welding near a gasoline tank can be dangerous business. Be sure to drain gasoline f r o m engine gas tank and carburetor and blow out tank before welding, or better still, remove the engine f r o m the cycle. Next, make cart frame part X in F i g . 2. Bend and fit the end that is fastened to the axle extension first. Then bend, cut and flatten the end to be attached to the cycle frame w i t h a l u g as in Fig. 2C. Use blocks to hold part X level w i t h the floor and tack-weld or temporarily w i r e the l u g to the cycle frame. Now cut and fit part Y in position, tackwelding or taping it w i t h plastic electrician's tape to hold it in place. Follow by fitting part Z in place, fastening the end to the cycle seat support w i t h a lug. Cut the triangular shaped pieces, which reinforce the cart frame and provide mounting-bolt holes for the cart box, and w e l d them to the frame members.

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Also complete all the other welding of the lugs and cart frame joints w h i l e it is s t i l l attached to the cycle to avoid d i s t o r t i o n of the parts due to heat of welding. The cart box is made of 1/4-in exterior p l y wood reinforced w i t h cleats at all inside corners as detailed in F i g . 2D. B o l t it to the frame w i t h three 1/4-in. fh bolts. M a k e the cart fender ( F i g . 8) f r o m sheet metal as y o u

d i d the cycle fenders, and bolt it to the cart box. Use Shake-proof nuts on the three bolts that fasten the side cart to the cycle to p r e vent the nuts v i b r a t i n g loose. Sets of plans for b u i l d i n g the powercycle and side cart are available f r o m the designer for $2, ppd. Send check or money order, no C.O.D.'s or stamps, to Joe M c B r i d e , 2631 Kensington W a y , Stockton 4, Calif.