FINALS: CONCRETE MATERIALS

1. CONCRETE WORKS: Concrete Admixtures

Admixtures are those ingredients in concrete other than portland cement, water, and aggregates that are
added to the mixture immediatelybefore or during mixing (Fig. 6-1).
The major reasons for using admixtures are:
1. To reduce the cost of concrete construction
2. To achieve certain properties in concrete more
effectivelythan by other means
3. To maintain the quality of concrete during the
stages of mixing, transporting, placing, and
curing in adverse weather conditions
4. To overcome certain emergencies during
concreting operations

FIGURE 1 Liquid admixtures, from left to right: antiwashout admixture,

shrinkage reducer, water reducer, foaming agent, corrosion inhibitor, and
air-entraining admixture.

Concrete should be workable, finishable, strong,durable, watertight, and wear resistant. These qualities
can often be obtained easily and economically by the selection of suitable materials rather than by resorting
to admixtures (except air-entraining admixtures when needed).Admixturescanbe classified by function as
follows:
1. Air-entraining admixtures
- are used to purposely introduce and stabilize microscopic air bubbles in concrete.

2. Water-reducing admixtures
- are used to reduce the quantity of mixing water required to produce concrete of a certain slump, reduce watercement ratio, reduce cement content, or increase slump.

3.Plasticizers
- theseadmixtures are added to concrete with a low-to-normal slump and water-cement ratio to make high-slump
flowing concrete

4. Accelerating admixtures
- used to accelerate the rate ofhydration (setting) and strength development of concrete at an early age.
5. Retarding admixtures
- are used to delay the rate of settingof concrete.

6. Hydration-control admixtures
- consist of a two-part chemical system:(1) a stabilizer or retarder that essentially stops the hydration of cementing
materials, and (2) an activator that reestablishes normal hydration and setting when added to the stabilized concrete.

7. Corrosion inhibitors
- are used in concrete for parkingstructures, marine structures, and bridges where chloride salts are present.

8. Shrinkage reducers
- have potential uses in bridge decks, critical floor slabs, and buildings where cracks and curling must be
minimized for durability or aesthetic reasons

9. Alkali-silica reactivity inhibitors

- Chemical admixtures to control alkali-silica reactivity (alkali-aggregate expansion)
10. Coloring admixtures
- Natural and synthetic materials are used to color concrete for aesthetic and safety reasons
11. Miscellaneous admixtures such as workability, bonding, dampproofing, permeability reducing,
grouting, gas-forming, antiwashout,foaming, and pumping admixtures
Effects of Concrete Admixtures in Field

Figure 3Plasticized, flowing concrete is easily placed in thinsections

such as this bonded overlay that is not much thicker than 112 diameters
of a quarter.

Figure 4 Red and blue pigments were used to color this terrazzo floor.
Figure 2 Flowable concrete with a high slump (top) is easily
placed (middle), even in areas of heavy reinforcing steel
congestion (bottom).

Table 1 Concrete Admixtures by Classification

* Superplasticizers are also referred to as high-range water reducers or plasticizers. These admixtures often meet both ASTM C 494 (AASHTO M
194) and ASTM C 1017 specifications.

Mixing Process(Liquid Waterproofer)

1. Pun or vibrate the concrete. To achieve the greatest resistance, it is essential that
concrete is well punned or vibrated to eliminate trapped air.
2. Understand the effect of the additive. It is to 'plasticise' the mix, reducing the amount
of gauging water required, giving the mix additional strength and flexibility to prevent
it cracking or crazing during a more controlled drying out period. It provides a compact
easily worked mix when wet with a smoother hard wearing, less dusty surface when
dry.

Mixing Process (Mortar Plasticiser)

1. Use a mortar plasticiser. It has all the advantages of lime and none of the
disadvantages. This liquid admixture plasticises a cement/sand mix using less gauging
water than usual, giving an easily workable 'fatty' mortar with strong adhesion. It has a
reasonably fast initial setting period but leaves ample time for the adjustment of bricks.
2. Add the plasticiser to the gauging water at a rate of 1/5 litre of plasticiser to 20 litres of
water.

Mixing Process (Cement Dyes)

1. Allow to self-mix. The granules have a self-mixing action simply by being added to a dry
mortar or concrete mix, then turned over in the normal way before the gauging water
is added. The amount of colourant used will affect the shade produced so a careful

check must be kept when mixing successive batches that the same quantity is used
each time. As a guide, 2-10kg per 100kg of cement is recommended.

Mixing Process (Concrete Dust Proofer and Surface Hardener)

1. Add a concrete dustproofer and surface hardener.
2. Pour the dust-proofer in the concrete.
3. Add more if needed.

Applied Procedure and Guidelines (Frost Proofer and Rapid Hardener)

1. Place sheeting down for summer laying where concrete has been laid in direct sunlight.
2. Take precautions with winter laying since laying polythene sheeting covered with sacks,
expanded polystyrene or a similar insulant over the concrete preserves the heat
generated during the drying process.
3. Use with the correct cement. Frost Proofer and Rapid Hardener should only be used
with ordinary and rapid hardening Portland Cement.
4. In winter, the gauging water should be at temperature of not less than 20C
particularly when the air temperature is close to zero.

Mixing Process (Wickes waterproofer and retarder for render - 5 litres - 240-146)
1. Use internally or externally. Generally used for exterior rendering, it can also be used
internally for making good after the installation of injected damp proof courses.
2. Add the admixture to the gauging water at a ratio of 1 part admixture to 30 parts
water.
3. Calculate at 500-1000ml per 50kg of cement.

2. MASONRY: Styrofoam Wall Panels

Foam board insulation, or Styrofoam panels, is a great way to add resistance value to almost any part of
your home. These panels provide good thermal resistance and reduce heat conduction through some of the
structural elements of your home like the timber studs that make up the framing of your walls. They can add
some structural strength as well. The panels can be cut without any special equipment and installed with
minimal expertise.
Installation Process
1. Measure the area where the insulation will
be installed to determine the amount of
Styrofoam board you need.
2. Find the lowest point of your wall and
mark this as your beginning point.
3. Attach the first sheet to the wall at a lower
corner where a full sheet can be installed,
using the foam board fastening nails.
4. Cut any boards down to size with the razor
knife.
5. Apply foam board tape to the seams when
the installation is complete, sealing any

gaps and seams to create a good vapor seal. The wall is now ready to cover with exterior
building materials or drywall.

Figure 5 Styrofoam Wall Panel

3. FORMS AND SCAFFOLDING

a. Metal Forms or Braces

Similar to the traditional method, but stringers and joist are replaced with aluminium forming
systems or steel beams and supports are replaced with metal props. This also makes this method
more systematic and reusable. Aluminum beams are fabricated as telescoping units which allows
them to span supports that are located at varying distances apart. Telescoping aluminium beams can
be used and reused in the construction of structures of varying size.
Installation Process
1. Decide if the formwork is going to be
constructed on site.
2. Measure the area where the form will
be used and then measure it again.
3. Draw the design you need on graph
paper.
4. Design the extra inches of the form
into the formwork plan.
5. Design formwork projects with
premade forms for curved or
unusually shaped areas.
6. Build walls with forms that are set
and reinforced with metal post called
rebar. The forms are laid out in the
shape desired and concrete pour
into them like bricks.

Figure 6 Metal Formwork in Malaysia

b. Metal Scaffoldings
Scaffolding is a temporary structure used to
support people and material in the construction or
repair of buildings and other large structures. It is
usually a modular system of metalpipes or tubes,
although it can be from other materials.
Installation Process
1. Select a secure foundation on which to
build and set your scaffold.

2. Opt for casters. If you plan on moving

your scaffolding to work on various

spots, include casters in your scaffolding
Figure 7 Metal Scaffolding in Mumbai, India.
setup. Remember to lock the casters
when you get it into place.
3. Assemble the scaffolding frame. Lay out the ends of the scaffolding. Secure the ends of
the cross braces to the bottom of the opposite end frame.
4. Make sure the scaffold is stable.
5. Place the planks.

6. Secure access to the scaffold. If ladders are used to access the scaffold, use ones that
are designed for that specific scaffold.

7. Attach the guardrails. Guardrails are highly recommended for all scaffolding due to the
height of the equipment and the risk of falls.
8. Inspect the scaffolding to ensure safety

Figure 8 COMMON PARTS OF METAL SCAFFOLDINGS

Base Plate

Casters

Guard Rail Holder

Pins & Spring Clips

Outriggers

Scaffold Towers

Scaffold Boards

Scaffold Braces

Scaffold End Frames

Scaffold Legs

Stanchion Posts

Toe Boards

4.WOODWORKS

A. Ceiling/Wall Materials
-The materials you use for the walls and ceilings in your home will affect how your home looks
(both inside and out), how it'll stand up to fires, wind and physical stress, and how energy efficient
your home is as a whole.
A.1. Hardiflex
-a tough, hard-wearing, low maintenance flat sheet which makes it easy to achieve a smooth
painted finish. As an eaves lining, external wall cladding, verandah and carport lining.
Installation Process
1. Hardiflex boards should be installed on
ceilings first. Application at right
angles to the framing is preferable.

the

2. Unless specified on fire or sound rated

assemblies, horizontal wall application
recommended to give added strength
reduce the number of joints.

is
and

3. Starting in the upper corner of the

wall, work across and down. Ends and
edges of sheets should be touching
not forced tightly together.

but

4. Holding Hardiflex board firmly against

the
framing, begin fastening in the center of the sheet and moved outward toward ends
and edges.
Figure 9Hardiflex Panels

5. Set fasteners heads slightly indented

from the surface without breaking the face paper or damaging the gypsum core.
6. Installed sheet in a brick pattern with the ends staggered and supported by framing
members. Joints shall not fall on the same studs as those directly on the opposite side
of the wall.

7. Cut openings out of full sheets or lay out joints to fall on the studs nearest the center of
the doors and windows. Where possible, position full sheets to extend completely
above and below openings and avoid piecing.

A.2. Gypsum Board

-also known as drywall or wallboard, is a type of
sheathing used for interior walls and ceilings.
These sheets are connected to the framing by either
screws or nails, and seamed together using a
special drywall compound, which leaves an even
and flat surface. The result is a wall that is smooth
and easy to finish.
Installation Process (Ceiling)
1. Measure the ceiling starting the one end along
wall perpendicular to the joists.

a
Figure 10 Gypsum Board

2. Use your razor knife to score and snap a piece of gypsum board at that length, running
the blade alongside your t-square to keep it straight.
3. Set up two ladders, one by the starting wall, the other under the joists to which you
measured. With an assistant, hold the gypsum board up to the ceiling, with the cut end
facing the wall and the uncut end lining up with the middle of the joist.
4. Shoot drywall screws ever six inches or so along the edge of the board where it is
under the joist.
5. Hang the rest of the boards in the same manner, positioning them end to end, in
courses, always meeting at the joists.
6. Press meshdrywalling tape over all the seams between the boards.
7. Sand the seams and screw holes by hand to smooth out the dried joint compound.
Apply another layer of joint compound over the first along the seams, making the
seams a little wider. Let it dry, sand it, and apply a third, very thin final coat. Sand it
lightly and paint.

Installation Process (Wall)

1. Screw full sheets of drywall to the
house framing, cutting notches and
holes for electrical boxes and other
features with a drywall saw.
2. Measure areas of the wall or ceiling
that are too small to accommodate a
full sheet, and cut the drywall to fit.
3. Place the sheets next to each other so
that the seams are tight, but don't
worry if there are small gaps.
4. Use paper tape to cover flat seams,
and metal corner beading to cover
outside corners.
Figure 11 Gypsum Ceiling and Wallboard Installation
5. Tape flat seams and inside corners
by first spreading a coat of mud
along the seam with a drywall blade.
6. Cover the seams, corners and all screw heads with a coat of mud.
7. Spread and scrape another coat of mud, using a wider blade.
8. Sand the last coat of mud lightly with medium grit sandpaper prior to painting or
wallpapering the wall.

A.3. Acoustical Boards

- are the ideal decorative wall treatment
for areas where sound and noise control
are a consideration. The panels have the
ability to eliminate incoming noise by
providing additional insulation to the
walls and to absorb sound, preventing
the sound from bouncing off of a
room's surfaces and causing distortion
due to echo.
Installation Process
Figure 12 Acoustic Boards

1. Lay an acoustic panel flat on the floor, so that the back of the panel is facing up.
2. Measure along the line that you just drew and mark a point the same distance in from
each side of the panel.
3. Attach two panel clips to the back of the panel at the marks that you made on each
side.
4. Add a clip in the center of the bottom of the panel if hanging a long rectangular panel.
5. Determine the distance between the two clips on the top of the acoustic panel with the
tape measure.
6. Screw two wall clips to the wall, using the marks you created as a guide.
7. Measure down from the upper clips on the panel to the lower clip.
8. Slide the panel down the wall over the clips. The clips on the wall panel should lock into
place with the wall clips.

A.4. Metal Ceiling

- Metal Ceilings Systems provide an
aesthetically pleasing suspended
ceiling system. Often used in offices,
supermarkets and hospitals they
provide a secure, easily maintained
durable method of upgrading a soffit
existing ceiling. Not only do the
perforations add to the aesthetic
quality of the tile, when used in
conjunction with an acoustic
insulation ceiling pad, they can also
improve their acoustic performance
fire rating.

and
or

Figure 13 Metal Ceiling

and

Installation Process
1. Measure the width and the length of your ceiling to get its surface area and therefore
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

the number of metal ceiling panels you will need.

Prepare a base for attaching the tin ceiling panels.
Mark the layout lines for the metal ceiling panel on the plywood with a pencil.
Lay the tin panels on the plywood base by nailing them with a nail gun.
Seal the seams between the tin ceiling panels using a caulking gun.
Finish your ceiling with tin molding in the corners and on the edges.

A.5. Metal Walls

- are flat or corrugated sheets of
metal manufactured to line walls or a
roof.It is durable, inexpensive to
install because it comes in large
panels, can be very sturdy and is
resistant to rot, decay and termites. It
may be more common in roofing, but
also can be used for siding.
Installation Process

Figure 14 Sheet Metal Wall Panels

1. Measure the wall where corrugated metal panels will be installed.

2. Start at the bottom and side of a wall; hold a panel in place and fasten it with
galvanized sheet metal screws through the metal into the wall framing.
3. Overlap the next panel by one corrugated ridge and valley.
4. Cover the wall completely, cutting panels where needed to fit with tin snips or a metal
saw.
5. Finish the wall by installing sheet metal flashing at the top, bent at an angle to prevent
water from getting in behind the metal panel. Where two metal walls meet, screw in a
metal corner to join them.

B. Metal Ceiling Joists for Acoustical Boards

- is a structural component found in buildings and is generally made of steel. These bars connect
structural beams to each other or to other load-bearing objects. These joists usually serve as
connectors to acoustic boards.
Installation Process
1. Measure the ceiling and plot

2.

3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

it out on graph paper,

marking the exact locations
of all windows and doors.
Mark the direction of ceiling
joists. Mark the joists on the
ceiling itself, using a pencil or
chalk to draw the joist lines
across the ceiling.
With the dealer, plan the
layout for the ceiling, figuring
full panels across the main
ceiling and evenly trimmed Figure 15 Metal ceiling joists with soundproofing material.
partial panels at the edges.
Mark the level the new ceiling will hang at, allowing at least 4 inches clearance
between the panels and the old ceiling.
Install screw eyes following the ceiling layout diagram.
For each screw eye, cut a length of hanger wire that is long enough to fasten
securely through the screw eye.
Set the main runners into place.
Install the cross tee sections of the
ceiling grid.

C. Metal Ceiling Joists for Gypsum

Boards/Plywood
-are typically attached to metal furring
members that are secured to or suspended from
steel open-web joists or light beams.Open-web
steel bar joists are not designed to receive
wallboard
directly, and they are often spaced more than
24 inches o.c. Hence, theyrequire suitable
furring or suspension systems, installed with
appropriatespacing, to support gypsum board
ceilings.

Figure 16 Gypsum Board Ceiling System Chart

Installation Process
1. Measure spacing between framing members. Cut angle to distance between
members plus six inches. T
2. Cut a slit in the 1 leg, three inches from each end. Bend each end of the mounting
angle 90.
3. Attach the bent section of one of the mounting angles to the wood framing member
4. Attach the ceiling joists to the 1 x mounting angle using #8 screws or 3/16
rivets.
5. Position the remaining mounting angle on the opposite side of the frames between
the joists.
6. Attach the ceiling joists.

D. Metal Wall Studs (Drywall)

-are used to frame non-load-bearing walls and are an affordable, eco-friendly alternative to
wood studs. You will need to determine whether to use a heavier stud, which requires
expensive power tools, or install thinner-gauged studs closer together before you start the
project.

Installation Process
1. Measure the distance between
the installed top and bottom
track, referred to as runners.
2. Refer to the metal stud
reference chart to determine
the stud spacing required for
the height of your wall.
3. Mark the centerline for each
stud on the top runner with the
permanent marker, allowing the
spacing recommended by the
metal stud reference chart .
Figure 17 Metal stud framing
4. Place a mark on a metal stud
at the dimension you
measured between the top and bottom runners in Step1.
5. Extend the mark across the flat back face of the metal stud by aligning the carpenter's
square with the mark you placed on the stud and dragging the permanent marker
along the edge of the carpenter's square.
6. Make a cut down each leg of the metal stud with the aviation snips and score on the
line you marked in Step 5, using the utility knife.
7. Place one hand on both side of the cuts and fold the metal stud back and forth until the
stud breaks at the score line you made on the back of the stud.
8. Repeat the cutting procedure on each metal stud needed to frame the wall.
9. Align one of the metal studs with a centerline mark that you placed on the top runner
and clamp the metal stud in place with a pair of self-locking pliers.
10.Insert the #3 Phillips tip into the drill and secure the metal stud to the top runner by
running a #7 screw through top runner and metal stud.
11.Repeat Steps 11 and 12 until you have all the metal studs secured to the top runner.

12.Place the 4-foot level against the metal stud that you fastened to the top runner.
13.Clamp the bottom of the metal stud to the bottom runner when the level reads that the
metal stud is plumb.
14.Run a #7 screw through the bottom runner and into the metal stud to secure the stud.
15.Repeat steps previous three steps to secure all the metal studs to the bottom runner.
16.Move to the other side of the wall. Clamp and secure the top and bottom of each stud
to complete the installation of the metal studs.

E. Laminated Floor Planks

- is a multi-layer synthetic flooring product fused together with a lamination process. Laminate
flooring simulates wood (or sometimes stone) with a photographic applique layer under a clear
protective layer. The inner core layer is usually composed of melamine resin and fiber board
materials.
Installation Process
1. Prepare the area under the floor. Before installing
laminate flooring planks, check your concrete slab
flatness. Lay a 6-foot straight edge on the surface.
sure it touches the floor completely.
2. Any place that two concrete slabs meet, there will
line in the floor. Cover these lines with heavy-duty
packing tape.
3. Install the flooring underlay.
4. Lay the laminate flooring planks. The planks
not directly touch the wall.
5. Add trim. Since proper installation of laminate
flooring planks leaves 1/4 inch against each wall,
will add a nice finish to your flooring surface. Use
to attach the trim for a good finish.

for
Make
be a

should

Figure 18 Laminated Floor Plank

floor trim
wood glue

5. ROOFWORKS

Roofing Sheets are used to protect the roofs of houses, sheds, or garages from the
elements. It is a very important part of all aspects of construction. Many different types of roof
sheeting are available to choose from and each type has its strengths and weaknesses.

Types of Roof Sheets

1. Corrugated Roof Sheets
-The most common type of roofing sheets have some sort of corrugation, that is, the
surface has been folded or bent into a repetitive shape.
a. Type B Wide Rib
-can be found made of galvanized steel, painted steel, aluminum, stainless steel.
The standard sheet width is 36".
b. Type F Intermediate Rib
-is known as an Intermediate Rib because of its spacing, which is not quite as wide
as Type B.The intermediate rib is particularly useful for roofs that must nest with an
existing Type F roof.
c. 2 1/2" Rib

-The 2 1/2" Rib is an improvement on an older type of 24GA 2 1 /2" Corrugated

metal. It has improved carrying capabilities over the older type. 2 1/2" Rib is most
often found in 30" sheets.
d. 1 1/2" Composite
-1 1/2" Composite Floor Deck is best for bonding with concrete because of the
unique shape of its web.
e. 2" Composite
-The unique indentations in the profile of this sheet allows for ideal bonding between
concrete and metal, creating a hearty composite deck. The 2" Composite is found in
24" widths, in galvanized steel, painted steel, and stainless steel, with a special
interlocking side lap to join it to neighboring sheets.
f. N Deck
- have a very special, deep profile that allows for longer spans than shallower
profiles. It is often a cost-effective choice because its ability to span larger distances
lets the user choose a lighter gauge than would be needed in a sheet with a depth
shallower than N deck's mighty 3 inches.
g. Thermalwall Roofing Panels
-are sturdy with great load-carrying capability. Its best to use this type when you are
not using rigid insulation.
h. 4" Rib
-4" Rib corrugated sheets are highly available and recognizable, but these sheets
are primarily used for as a siding product.
i. 7/8" and 1/2" Corrugated Metal Panels
-The 7/8" and 1/2" panels are primarily used as siding product. You can find these
metal panels in painted aluminum and painted steel varieties, as well as bare
aluminum and stainless steel.
j. R Panel
-The R panel has a deep and wide profile that is quite strong. You will find R panels
in both siding and roofing applications.

2. Polycarbonate Roof Sheets

-Polycarbonate roof sheets are used more often in commercial and industrial construction.
This is due to the material's ability to weather a large contrast of temperatures and
environments while still maintaining its stability.

3. Sheet Metal Roofing

-It is used on everything from large buildings to backyard sheds. Metal sheeting's most
obvious advantage is durability; the material is very hard to break, and is extremely
resistant to the elements.

4. Plastic Roof Sheets

-Plastic roofing is used mostly for smaller structures, especially structures not intended to
be permanent. Durability depends on the type of plastic from which the roofing sheet is
constructed.

5. Shingles

-are a roof covering consisting of individual overlapping elements. These elements are

typically flat rectangular shapes laid in rows from the bottom edge of the roof up, with
each successive higher row overlapping the joints in the row below. Historically, at the roof
ridge there was a cap consisting of copper or lead sheeting which in modern times has
been replaced by shingles with a plastic underlay.

a. Composition shingles

-are made of asphalt or fiberglass.

b. Asphalt shingles
-uses an asphalt base that is then covered with granules of crushed minerals.
c. Fiberglass shingles
-are similar in appearance to asphalt shingles, but don't have the same
tendency for curling.
d.

Cedar shingles
-wood shingles made from cedar provide a rustic look as well as durability.

6. Roof Tiles
-Roof tiles are designed mainly to keep out rain, and are traditionally made from locally

available materials such as clay or slate. Modern materials such as concrete and plastic
are also used and some clay tiles have a waterproof glaze.
a. Flat tiles
- the simplest type, which are laid in regular overlapping rows.
b. Imbrex and tegula
-an ancient Roman pattern of curved and flat tiles that make rain channels on a roof.
c. Roman tiles
- flat in the middle, with a concavecurve at one end at a convex curve at the
other, to allow
interlocking.
d. Pantiles
- with an S-shaped profile, allowing adjacent tiles to interlock. These result in a
ridged pattern resembling a ploughed field.
e. Mission or barrel tiles
-are semi-cylindrical tiles laid in alternating columns of convex and concave tiles
f. Interlocking roof tiles
-are similar to pantile with side and top locking to improve protection from water
and wind.
g. Antefixes
-vertical blocks which terminate the covering tiles of a tiled roof.
i. Clay tiles
- are only appropriate for a house that can support their heavy weight.It is very
durable and long-lasting.
j. Slate tiles
-crafted from stone last very long and are good choices for locations where fire is
a concern.
k.

Concrete tiles
-are a less expensive option when you want the look of clay tiles, but the weight
makes them suitable only for houses that can withstand such a load.

6. Roll Roofing
-is constructed like asphalt or fiberglass shingles, but comes in wide rolls. It is also less
thick than shingles and so it isn't as long-lasting and durable. Installed in double layers,
roll roofing can last as long as a single layer of shingles.
8.

Vertical Metal Roofing

-has an industrial look about it, but is becoming increasingly more popular for residential
use. The thicker the panels used, the longer vertical metal can last. Copper metal is
available, but is more expensive.
7. Rubber Roofing
-Ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber roofing is a rubber type of roofing that
is appropriate for flat roofs. These large sheets are flexible and very strong, but a silver
coating is sometimes used to enhance durability.
8. Tar and Gravel
-Many older flat roofs are made of tar and gravel. Switching over to EPDM is an option to
consider, but repairing or renewing an existing tar and gravel roof with the same material
will be easier and less expensive.

Installation Process (Shingles)

1. Check the roof for any limbs, nails, or debris that may be sticking out.
2. Staple the felt to the roof using with your staple gun.
3. Mark the center of your roof with chalk and draw a line from this point to each edge of
the roof.
4. Lay down a starter strip of shingles along each edge of the roof.
5. Beginning with the center point that you chalked out, place shingles on the starter
strip.
6. Secure each shingle with your roofing nails in an orderly fashion until you've covered
the whole roof.
7. Seal the ridging, flashings and edgings with roof cement.

Installation Process (Roof Tiles)

1.
2.
3.
4.

Install underlayment across the sheathing of the roof.

Install the metal flashing where needed.
Nail the two-inch thick cant strip flush with the eave of the roof.
Hook a tape measure to the roof eave and measure up the length of the tile being
used; make a mark on the underlayment.
5. Nail the 1x2 batten below and flush with the snapped line.
6. Lie the tile down by working in a left to right direction because of the vertical keyway
between the tiles.

Figure 19
Types of Corrugated Roofing

Figure 20 Types of Roofing Shingles

Figure 21 Sample types of roofing tiles

*Gutters
-is a narrow channel, or trough, forming the component of a roof system which collects and diverts
rainwater shed by the roof. It is also known as an eavestrough (especially in Canada), eaves channel[1]
guttering or simply as a gutter.
Installation Process
1. Look at the outside of your home and
determine how you would like the
gutters to channel the water.
2. Measure along the edges of your roof.
Gutters often come in 10-foot sections,
so this will determine how many
sections of gutter you need. Add 10
percent to your measurements for
wastage (you will need to cut some
pieces to fit).
3. Combine the roof measurement with
your gutter layout plan to calculate the
number of other gutter components
you will need (corners, elbows, end
pieces, drop outlets).
4. Begin at the end of your roof away from
the downspout location and measure
down 1/2 inch from the edge of your
roof and mark it.
5. Calculate the slope you will need so the
water in your gutters will flow towards the downspout.
6. Snap a chalk line from the lower mark Figure 21 Gutter
at the downspout end to the single
mark at the far end.
7. Install the components of your gutter system--drop outlets (at the downspout end),
corners and mounting brackets.
8. Working from your ladder, install individual sections of gutter into the mounting
brackets and join the sections with gutter connectors.
9. Use a hacksaw to cut gutter sections to fit when necessary.
10.Run a bead of silicon caulk between the gutter sections to prevent water leaking
through the seams.
11.Install an elbow at the bottom of the drop outlet, then measure, cut and install the
downspout to the base of the drop outlet.
12.Use mounting brackets to firmly attach the downspout to the side of your house.

6. HARDWARE: Expansion Bolt

"Expansion bolt" is a generic term that refers to three fastening components combined together: a threaded
bolt, a properly sized nut and an expanding sleeve assembly. When assembled together, the force generated
between the nut and bolt (when tightened) forces the outward expansion of the sleeve assembly, thus gripping
the material the sleeve is embedded into. They are most commonly used in porous materials such as brick,
concrete and stone applications where traditional threading cannot be created.
Installation Process

1. Determine what size expansion bolt is required for your application.

2. Mark the location of the expansion bolt locations on the floor--this is where the bolt will be
secured to the floor.

3. Drill the proper size and depth hole for each anchor.
4. Insert the anchor into the hole. Make sure the anchor is resting at the very bottom of the
pre-drilled hole before proceeding.

5. Insert the bolt through the device being secured and then into the anchor (which is still
buried). Tighten the nut to the desired amount of torque, or until it is tight if no torque
specifications are available.

Figure 22 Parts of an Expansion Bolt

Figure 23 Expansion Bolts

7. PAINT
-is any liquid, liquefiable, or mastic composition which, after application to a substrate in a thin layer, is
converted to a solid film. It is most commonly used to protect, color or provide texture to objects.
a. Waterproofing Paint
Waterproofing is a key step in protecting your home and personal possessions from water
damage.Several types of waterproof paint exist on the market with varying degrees of durability and
price. Some paints also contain potentially hazardous materials, so follow proper safety procedures
when using them.
Types of Waterproofing Paint
a.1. Masonry Paint
-is designed to adhere to brick, concrete and other hard surfaces in and around the home.
a.2. Epoxy Paint
-is most commonly used for basement or garage flooring because of the paint's durability and waterresistant capabilities.
a.3. Acrolein elasticized paint
-is a waterproof paint used on concrete surfaces. The compound also inhibits the growth of mold,
mildew and other bacteria associated with the presence of moisture.
b. Elastomeric Paint

Elastomeric paint is an alternative coating for parts of buildings that need extra protection against
adverse weather. Properties include fully waterproofing an external surface, preventing water intrusion
through hairline cracks and providing lasting protection for years or even a "lifetime.
Installation Process
1. Remove Excess Mortar
2. Patching
3. Nix the Moisture
4. Painting

Figure 23 Waterproofing paint

Figure 24 Elastomeric Paint

8. WATERPROOFING MEMBRANE
The application of a layer of impervious material, such as felt and asphaltic cement, to a foundation
wall.
Types of Waterproofing Membrane
a. Asphalt Membrane
-comes in a rolled sheet that builders place around the foundation's walls before they back-fill the
area with dirt. The asphalt membrane is an elastic sheet that will cover small cracks if they develop
in the foundation's walls.
b. Polymer-Based Sealant
-are chemicals that can be sprayed or painted onto the foundations walls.
c. Urethane Sealant

-is a synthetic substance that works well as a

prevention and repair tool.The chemical is thick
and will help re-seal small cracks in the foundation.
d. Air Gap Membrane
-This sheet is polyethylene, which is a common
plastic, and has small dimples throughout it.
Installation Process
1. Examine the subfloor of the area.
2. Apply a layer of mortar to the floor to form a
slight slope toward the drain.
3. Spread the waterproof membrane down
over the first coat of mortar.
4. Install the tile backer boards around the
shower enclosure.
Figure 25 Waterproofing membrane
5. Apply another coat of mortar over the
waterproof membrane. Follow the same
slope as before, and do not let the mortar get into the drain weep holes. Allow this
layer to dry.

9. SOIL POISONING(PEST CONTROL) AT GROUND LEVEL

- is the most effective of subterranean termite control. The process involves treating the soil beneath an entire
building/residential during the pre construction stage, with a specially formulated termicude.
Types of Soil Poisoning Treatments
1. Repellent - Repellent termiticides work by creating a treated zone around a house that is toxic to
termites. Termites avoid the soil treated with repellent termiticides. Repellent termiticides prevent
penetration of treated soil by termites but encourage termites to explore alternate pathways to sources
of wood. Termites will find and penetrate even the smallest breeches in imperfect barrier treatments
around structures.(e.g.Biflex)
2. Non-Repellent - When a non-repellent termiticide is used, the termites are unable to detect that the
termiticide has been applied to the soil and do not avoid the area which has been treated. Although this
sounds contrary to what a treatment is trying to achieve, it is not. By passing through the termiticide,
the termites unknowingly make contact with the active ingredient, which results in their demise.(e.g.
Termidor, Premise)
Installation Process (Pre Construction Treatment)
1. Bottom and sides of excavation must be
treated with chemical products, prior to start
foundation work.
2. Where slabs on grade will be built, make
holes in the
earth and fill them with chemical products.
3. Be sure to use chemicals where walls and
floors intersect.
4. Treat the perimeter of the construction by
making holes filled with chemicals all around
the structure.

5. In pipe beddings fill an area with chemical products to secure the future of the piping.
6. Use specific anti-termite chemical to treat the portion of the buildings were wooden
products such as cabinets, doors, among others, will be placed.
Figure 26 Soil poisoning in the Philippines

Installation Process (Post Construction Treatment)

1. Application of soil treatment along the exterior
perimeter and within the area i.e. cracks in floors of
warehouse where entry of termites and heavy
infestations can possibly occur.
2. Soil treatment will be conducted by drilling the
concrete slab along the exterior perimeter of the
warehouse using an electric rotary hammer with 12
18 mm dia bit. Holes will be drilled at a distance of
to 50 cm between holes and 40 to 60 cm away
from the exterior wall.
3. Drilled holes will be applied with insecticidal
solution at the rate of 1 gallon per linear meter.
4. Drilled holes will be plugged with mixed concrete
cement and sand after treatment to prevent the
Figure 27 Sub-slab injection of termicide
escape/emission of fume of chemicals and
maintain the physical appearance of the concrete
slab floor.
5. Note: Always call a professional. Do not do it yourself since handling chemicals is
dangerous.

Figure 28 Biflex (Repellent)

Figure 29 Termidor (Non Repellent)

the

or
30

Figure 30 Premise (Non Repellent)

10.

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