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nPRIN COUNTY FREE LIBRPRY

MICHAEL BELL

3
Painte

hd 103 black and white

panorama of a new land


and villages,
portraits and social scenes as
depicted in more than two hundred
Here

is

the

early forts, towns,

rare sketches

and watercolours from

eighteenth- and nineteenth-century

Canada. The paintings and drawings,


drawn from surviving visual records,
include works by artists ranging from
lady amateurs and military officers to
professionals such as William
Armstrong and Lucius O'Brien.
Complementary descriptions from
contemporary travel literature,
diaries and letters, and background
essays by Michael Bell present a vivid
picture of frontier life, as seen by
settlers and travelers of the time.
Region after region, the new continent's history unfolds in a careful

selection of pictures,

augmented by

exacting research and enlightening


information, from the early settlements in Newfoundland and the
Acadia of Longfellow's Evangeline to
the farms and vi lages of Quebec, the
garrison towns of Upper Canada, the
vast unsettled West, and the isolated
I

British

cbtoRy-op

tf^^e

Pacific.

Michael Bell, now Direlctor of the


Agnes Etherington Art Centre at
Queen's University, Kingston, Ontario,

was

until recently

Curator of Paintings,

Drawings, and Prints at the Public


Archives of Canada in Ottawa. He
organized the exhibition Image of
Canada from the Public Archives of

Canada, from which the picture


material in this book has been selected.
lackel

il

York on

V.

Watercolour

mclsHale.

New York Graphic Socielv Lid.


Greenwich, Conneclicut

1804.

1111

00305 2212

FEB^
y^PR 4

I8i

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DATE DUE

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B 199 i:

PAINTERS IN

A NEW LAND

^j^,/m/fh<^^f f/f^nr i^{/r/ar/Ty/// mr^JTf/c/- (%i6arff,/^^,^i'^.Ji/y.'^

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PAINTEES IN

A NEW LAND
SELECTED AND INTRODUCED

BY

NEW YORK GRAPHIC SOCIETY

MICHAEL BELL

LTD.

MICHAEL

BELL, 1973

International Standard

Book Number

0-8212-0581-1

Library of Congress Catalog Card

Number

73-79998

COPYRIGHT

1973 MICHAEL BELL

All rights reserved.

No portion of this book


may be reproduced or used
in

any form or by any means

without written permission


of the publishers.

First published in Canada by


McClelland and Stewart Limited, Toronto.

Published

in

the United States of

New York Graphic

America by

Society Ltd.,

Greenwich, Connecticut, 06830.

JAMES PEACHEY
Cataraqui on Lake Ontario

August

783

Water-colour, 16V2 x 22 inches

DEDICATION PACE

PETER RINDISBACHER

View

of the English Minister's House,

Water-colour, 6V*

Red River

1822

8V2 inches

CONTENTS PAGE

GEORGE SETON
The Cree Indians celebrating a dog

least, Rupert's

Water-colour, bV4 x

9%

Land

inches

September

5,

857

CONTENTS

CW^H-

-^:yg|^'=^.

Acknowledgements

Preface

New found

VI

lands

17

L'Acddie

29

Quebec

47

Upper Canada

97

Frontiers

159

Epilogue

206

Bibliography

220

Index of Artists

221

Index

223

Acknowledgements

The creation of this volume would have


been impossible without the advice
over the years ofW. McAllister lohnson.
H.A. Taylor, Director of the Historical
Branch of the Public Archives of Canada, encouraged

was

first

the

Paintings,

me when the project


My colleagues in

suggested.

Drawings

and

Prints

Section of the Public Archives of Can-

ada have unwittingly contributed to the


content in the discussions we have had
over the past
read

the

five years.

text

and

W.M.E. Cooke

made

valuable

suggestions.

The water-colours and drawings illustrating this book are all to be found in
the collection of documentary art in the
Public Archives of Canada one of the
least known, but best collections of its
type in Canada. All the colour photography was done by Ron Vickers.

In

memory of my father]

'

Jm
^^k
JUlg^r.

- '\.

.^-^^^^I^^^^H

"J^- **r_^B

)AMES
View

S.

MERES

of the harbour at Placentia, Newfoundland,


from the artillery placements
1786

Water-colour, 972 x SO'A inches

[8

'
[

PAINTERS IN A

NEW LAND

PREFACE

Until recently, certain parts of our cul-

alien

have been known only to a


small group of historians and private
collectors. One of the most exciting of

troduction of

tural heritage

these areas

is

the chronicle of eighteenth

and nineteenth century Canada


exists in the

that

form of water-colours and

and permitted the

cultures

new themes and

in-

experience, "paintings, drawings and


prints were
which made

the particular visual arts

but penurious English water-colourists;

possible for the

indi-

certain occupational groups

new

vantage of being able to sketch and paint

and

an era of expan-

literature. In

sion, exploration,

it

and

diversity of

new

drawings. This significant and charming

vidual to enter vicariously into the

collection forms a cohesive unit that

worlds of information and emotion."'


Pictures multiplied in response to the

an artistic phenomenon with the


events and social climate of the period.
Although these pictures have always
links

been

of interest to the sensitive private

collector, they are

nized as a
tage

now

vital part of

being recog-

our national heri-

which must be preserved and made

available to

all

Canadians.

We owe

great debt to the early collectors.

They

saw the

early

importance

these

in

Canada, and because of

we

are better able to under-

records of life
theirefforts,

of

stand the events and surroundings that


led

up to and formed the Canadian expe-

rience.

During Canada's early years under


English rule, exciting cultural develop-

ments were taking place in England and


Europe. Almost contemporary with the
Seven Years' War, England and Europe

were

enthusiastically

reaffirming

roots of Western society. Yet, at the

the

same

The medium of water-colour was

as "tangible evidence of British

and expansionism which


British

in the light of

record his nation's success."


In

response to the Victorian demand


illustrated journalism

and nineteenth centuries because the


means were extremely portable and all
ofthe materials the colour, the binder
that holds the particles of colour on the
surface ofthe paper, and the water are
all

easily available anywhere.

The paper,

handmade until the early nineteenth


century, was of high quality and diverse
in

kind. Eventually, the materials be-

for information,

came

developed; journals such as the Penny

for the

Magazine and later the Illustrated London News and the London Graphic
dealt with news and information on a
popular level, leaning heavily on the

grind his

available in prepackaged form

amateur

own

who

did not

want

to

colours and cut his paper

from large Imperial sheets. By 1781,


the Reeves firm was producing the

Illustrated journal-

cakes of colour familiar to


schoolchildren, and by 1832 the little

ism generated a demand for a large


number of on-the-spot pictures of the
events and places in the news. "Special

Japanned or enamelled tin boxes containing cakes of pigment were on the


market in much the same form asthey are

illustrative content.

over the globe, often

clear, informative pictures of

what they

encountered.

With the great proliferation of pictures


and an increasingability ofthe public to
"read" them, more and more people
began to make their own drawings. The
age of the amateur was born. Several
conditions combined to encourage this

new phenomenon;

selves without fear to the influences of

public to learn the

today.

With

his materials in

hand, the profes-

amateur could travel to the


countryside and come back with a
sketchbook full of studies direct from
nature ready to be made into formal
sional or

pictures.

tures

Before long, the formal pic-

were completed

in

the country-

side, with a resulting increase in

taneity

owed

and

spon-

which foreshaddevelopments in "plein"

brilliance,

the later

picture exhibitions

regular social occurrence,

became

small

and sent

backtothe Europeanand English presses

and philosophical superiority of


theirsociety, Englishmenexposed them-

itual,

ad-

vance and the interest in the present


could not but motivate the capable artist
in far away corners of the Empire to

an expansive period for the English.


Englishmen in great numbers travelled
extensively all over the world. English
colonies, established on a worldwide
basis in North America, the East and

the moral, spir-

power

empiricism, technological

riskingtheir lives in the process,

in their belief in

wasa popular

subject in landscape.
particularly favoured in the eighteenth

more and more visual

artists" travelled all

Secure

water-colour; and there

the ad-

infor-

for

and experiences alien to


the Mediterranean classical world. It was

West Indies, India, and later in Australia


and New Zealand, provided a sound
economic base for English commerce.

in

saw

mation about fresh areas of activity. The


Englishman sought the pictorial record

demand

time, they continuously sought out other


societies, lands,

of a common style; a school of engravers,

which flourished alongside London publishers and printsellers, made the pictures still more widely available; tuition
was available from the many competent

into art

attitudes

providingan opportunity

for the

viewing

grammar and syntax

Philadelphia

Museum

Britoin. Philadelphia:
2.

of Art,

1968.

Romantic Art

in

p. 17.

Public Archives of Canada, Image of Canada,

Ottawa; 1972, Introduction

painting

in

the lale nineteenth cen-

tury.

The

artists

exploited the brilliance

medium which

of their

resulted from

the transparent qualities of the colour

and the

reflective capacity of the paper.

The views they sought and


rendered

in their

delicately

water-colour sketch-

books were very much


popular interest

in

a reflection of the

picturesque land-

scape for itself. This interest was support-

ed by the phi losophical positions revolving around the picturesque, the beautiful, and the sublime, and thetrends in literature represented by the poetry of
Samuel Coleridge and William Wordsworth.

Landscape -not

formal

por-

and not historical painting in the


academic sense became the main pictorial theme in the popular mind.

traits

NEW LAND

A conference of the Governor-General,


Chalk pastel, 58x94 inches

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL

air

PAINTERS IN A

Lord Lome, and the Blackfeet Indians

The well-travelled Englishman often


produced his own visual record of his
journeys. Sometimes combined with a
these
pictures
were
diary,
later
reproduced in the form of engravings,
aquatints, and lithographs. These illustrated travel narratives, from which most
of the contemporary texts in this book are
extracted, helped to establish the image
of North America in Europe.
In England and elsewhere in Europe,
people showed far-reaching

interest in

the progress of the British colonies in

North America. For the English, it was


one area, reasonably close to home,
where English laws and language pertained, where the land was almost free,
and where the opportunities for their
children were said to be unlimited. For
the Europeans, whose few colonies were

10

mostly

in

881

disease-ridden climates and

subject to periodic outbreaks of native


violence,

British

North America was

were few
and minorities were tolerated and even encouraged. It was to such
particularly attractive: there
restrictions,

an interested public that the


journals appealed.
In

tion

illustrated

order to encourage more immigrato

British

North America,

Lord

Lome, the Governor-General of Canada,


1881 commissioned a group of
in
English and Scottish journalists to come
to Canada to report on the opportunities
available. It was only natural that one of
the

illustrated

journals

should

be

represented by Sydney Prior Hall. Hall


was well prepared for the task before

him. His record of the Prussian war was


highly praised by his contemporaries.

lAMES PATTISON

COCKBURN

PAINTERS IN A

NEW LAND

The launching of the Royal William

at

Quebec, Lower Canada

1831

Water-colour, 6 x 914 inches

He had covered Royal Tours so well that


he received the direct patronage of
Queen Victoria, and he had accompanied Lome and Princess Louise to
Canada. In 1881, Hall and the rest of the
journalists

made their way to the foothills

Canadian Rockies via steamer,


canoe, wagon, and the completed portions of the Canadian Pacific Railway.
Another group who recorded the earlierexperiences in the new land were the
officers of the British Army and the Royal
Navy. Every officer had to try his hand at
water-colour painting and to acquire "a
certificate of diligence from the Drawing
of the

Master"^

at

the

officers'

training

academies such as the Royal Military


Academy at Woolwich, where the

acknowledged

father of English water-

colour painting, Paul Sandby, was once

drawing master.

British

North America

wasone of thecolonial outposts.


lo

defend

it,

and sometimes the

order

people. Often nothing

garrisons of the British

Army

officers but their

were established and officers served


with their regiments on the periphery of
the backwoods, if not in them. It was a
peacetime posting, except for brief flurries of activity in 1776, 181 2, and 1837,

and the

the natural wonders,

In

officers

used the opportunity to

is

known of these

names: often their pictures come to us without even that.


Indeed, very little is known of most of
these

artists.

lames Paltison Cockburn and Philip


lohnBainbrigge were twotypical officerartists about whom we have some bio-

From 1793

indulge in the traditional, and at that time


acceptable, diversion of painting their

graphical

surroundings.

Academy at Woolwich. The ability


draw was one of the entrance qualifications for the academy since the officercadets were required to draw the terrain

information.

to

795, Cockburn attended the Royal Mil-

itary

To these officers we owe most of our


knowledge of what the colony of Canada
looked like in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The best known of them
Thomas Davies, James Peachey, and
lames PattisonCockburn- were three of

many who travelled throughout the


colony recording the towns and villages.
[11

to

of a battlefield

in

order to provide data to

and fortificaCommissioned as a 2nd lieutenant

establish artillery batteries


tions.
3.

Records oi the Royal MiliUin' Academy, \74l1892, Woolwich:

892,

p.

45.

PHILIP

JOHN BAINBRICCE

NEW LAND

PAINTERS IN A

Amherstburg from the

5%

Water-colour,

ferry.

8%

Upper Canada

Deservingto be better known

Philip

compositions are forerunners of the ad-

took a commission

vances of late-nineteenth-century European art.

upon graduation,
Cockburn advanced through the ranks,
endinghiscareerasa major-general and

lohn Bainbrigge.

the director of the Royal Laboratory at the

from the Royal Military

Royal Arsenal at Woolwich. Posted

1833, and his request for a posting

of the Royal Artillery

in

Canada from 1822 to 1823 and from


1826 to 1832, Cockburn executed an
incredible number of water-colours.
He was noted by his contemporaries as
an

being

sketcher,

often

rugged terrain
ed.

In

and

and

indefatigable

prolific

after his

the Royal Engineers after graduating


in

in

Canada was granted in 1 836. He served


in Lower Canada at the time of the
Rebellion and remained in Canada until
1842. His extraordinary

draughtsman

were

abilities as a

utilized

In

the

view he want-

undefined boundaries that were an issue

to get the

were published
drawings one of Quebec and
aquatints

Falls.

Both are de-

between
the

Britain

and the United States. At

same time he painted an impressive

If

painting

ficer,

it

was only recreation for the ladies.

mal education became the rule for both


men and women. To these women who
came to the colonies with their husbands
we owe respect for their courage and
gratitude for the paintings they have left

They recorded the flowers, the interhouses, and many other details that escaped the attention of the
us.

iors of the

Madawaska
to

Portage

Amherstburg

in

in

New

Brunswick

Upper Canada. He

strived for unusual pictorial effects, often

selecting unusual points of view. His

[I^

water-colour was a

Accomplished young women learned to


paint, dance, and speak French as the
officers did, even in the days before for-

whole of British North America from the

Cockburn wrote and illustrated a guidebook to Quebec entitled Quebec and

in

necessity for the successful military of-

series of water-colours ranging over the

sirable collector's items today. In 1831

Environs.

Academy

preparation of special surveys along the

another of Niagara

its

is

scrambling over the

1833, two sets of magnificent

large

in

He

1838

inches

officer-artists.

Accompanying

her hus-

band Thomas, an officer in the Coldstream Guard, Millicent Mary Chaplin

The

KATHERINE )ANE ELLICE

interior ot the seigniory

Water-colour, bVi x

recorded such homely and Canadian

drawings

scenes as removing several feet of fresh


fallen snow from the front of her hus-

feelings

band's stable, and the house

in

which

in Quebec. Jane Ellice,


Edward Ellice, and some-

they lived while


the wife of

time

mistress

Beauharnois

of

the

where

Seigneury

she

was

of

held
left

an

interesting series of water-colours

to

captive by the rebels in 1838,

accompany

herdiary. She described the

shipboard crossing on the Hastings with


Durham's entourage, which
Lord
included

the

English

water-colourist

Coke Smyth who taught

the

Durham

children the secrets of laying a water-

colourwash. At Quebec she painted the


town from shipboard; at Beauharnois
she recorded views of the interior of the
old seigneury house. Her attitude to her

NEW LAND

PAINTERS IN A

is

8%

house

at

Beauharnois, Lower Canada

indicative of the widespread

amateur watercolourists had about their work: "Nothing however but what call scrabbles
recollections of Beauharnois which
sha
ke to look at when we go home [to
that

the

England]!""

Women artists in Canada were attracted by the delicate wildflowers, the butterflies, and the people, all of which they
interpreted with the usual Victorian sen-

The advice given by the editor of


Catherine Parr Traill's The 6ac/( woods /n
Canada was a sound and commonly
held opinion: "To the person who is
timent.

capable of looking abroad into the beauties of nature, and adoring the Creator

the loneliest part of our Western Wilder-

ness."'
In

unmixed pleasure, which will


unhappy in

not permit her to be dull or

addition to the travellers, the

illus-

and the officers and their wives,


there were some artists who immigrated
to Canada a colony mainly concerned
with the issues of survival and daringly
attempted to gain their livelihood by
teaching art, selling their paintings, and
workingatvariousoccupations in which
trators,

they could use their talent to draw.


William Armstrong, who immigrated to

Canada hoping to find work as a railway


was at one time a practising

engineer,

4.

Public Archives of Canada, //ice Papers,


24. A2, Diary of lane Ellice, Saturday.

MC

October

13,1838.

through his glorious works, are opened


stores of

1838

inches

5.

Catherine

Parr

Traill,

The Backwoods

Canada, London: Charles Knight,

836.

oi

p. 4.

PAINTERS IN A

NEW LAND

EDWARD ROPER
Prairie flowers near

Water-colour, 20'/4 x

14

Broadview,

1887

Assiniboia

M'U

inches

;^^U^.:y:^.ML

ANEVVIAMD

PAINIERSIN

":'v

1
TVI^^ ^^>y/^i /?i/> //il'
WILLIAM GEORGE RICHARDSON HIND

/-

Due k hunting on

^w.^-

ihe prairies with an iniinigrdnt

iT

x-^

wagon tram

'

in lhi> diblariLC

8fa2

Water-c olour, 9 x llVi inches

engineer, an

artist,

a photographer, a

land speculator, and an art teacher at the


Toronto Normal School. William C. R.

who, in his desire to capture the


essence of a scene accurately and permanently, invented the Calotype an

Talbot,

new

Hind immigrated to Canada and attempted to make a living by his art. He


too taught in Toronto and led a some-

early form of photography. This

what itinerant life travelling to British


Columbia with the Overlanders of 'b2
and accompanying his brother Henry
Youle Hind into the interior of Labrador.

833, despairing of being able to draw


an Italian scene at hand with Dr. Wollas-

But the opportunities for the profes-

were scant and temporary,


and it is mainly to the amateur that we
owe our knowledge of the life and landscape of early Canadian life. It should be
remembered, however, that it was an aspiringamateurartist, William Henry Fox
sional artist

vention

made

the

Talbot

record obsolete.

in-

water-colour as a
tells

how

in

Camera Lucida, he recalled how


much easier had been with the camera
obscura. He then reflected "on the inimiton's

it

table beauty of the pictures of Nature's

painting.

how charming would be


it

it

caust these natural


images to imprint themselves durably
and remain fixed upon the paper!"' The
photograph as it finally took form was
it

were possible

more accurate, required less skill, and


was eventually within the capacity of
everyone. In 1858 the first successful
photographs of the Canadian West were
taken on the Canadian Government Assiniboine and Saskatchewan Exploring
Expedition. Photography

was used

also

by the North American Boundary Commission in 1870-75. The useofthewatercolour as a recording medium was limit-

ed now to the tradition-bound military


and the ranks of the professional artists,
such as Lucius O'Brien. Even at the Royal

to

15

6.

Quoted

in

H. Cernsheim, The History of Pho-

togrjphy, Toronto: Oxford University Press,

1955,

p.

61.

Military

Academy

at

Woolwich,

tography laboratory had been

a pho-

set up.

No

longerwould the accomplished amateur


water-colourist flourish as he had in the
early nineteenth century.

Fortunately for Canadians, a

number

PAINTERS l\ A

NEW LAND

would have been to


an interested group of collec-

personal record

ously displayed has already lost us a

no

goodly portion of our heritage. We must


revise our attitudes in order to guarantee that something is left for our chil-

avail

if

had not preserved the water-colours


and drawings for future generations.
The water-colours and drawings of
tors

orate with time

before the advent of photography. The

ours are often fugitive,

circumstances

the

rise

of

pollution-filled

and exposure

North

and

early

in

twentieth

the nineteenth

short-sighted viewpoint that

and

thing

image as a

is

collected

it

The
some-

centuries.

America, and the increasing familiarity


desirability of the visual

volume was motivated by


satisfy

these

conflicting

need to
demands:

the

many people

inance

British

our

namely, to provide contact with an im-

by continuous display

in

to

dren and grandchildren to experience


directly. The decision to prepare this

if not already
faded to a shadow of their earlier state

dom-

England

deteri-

environment; the col-

the English amateur, the political


of

volume

the type illustrating this

ofcircumstances combined to leave us a


record of what the country looked like
historical

if

must be continu-

WILLIAM ROEBUCK
Tracking boats up the Long Saull Rapids

on the

St.

Lawrence

River,

near Cornwall,

Upper Canada
Water-colour,

12%

16

1820
x 18 inches

segment of the heritage for as


as possible, and to ensure
the water-colours and drawings de-

portant

that

teriorate as

little

as possible while in

the custody of this generation.

NEW FOUND LANDS

The early explorers who came

to the

IV,

the sailor-king. Meres' record of the

fisheries of the

and harbours are happily


complemented by Edward Chappell's
accounts of the society and trade of the

this

colony.

shores of Newfoundland in search of the

Northwest Passage found in

its

stead the

Grand Banks. Although


was not the wealth of the Indies, its
value was sufficiently high that the Newfoundland fisheries became the spoil of

shorelines

Nearly one hundred years


the "special artist"

came

continental wars.

to these

Sydney

later,

when

Prior Hall

same shores with Lord

under the direction of the


Navy, became the adminis-

Lome, he also found the fishermen


and their activities the most worthy and

multi-national

appropriate subject matter for his pencil,

was founded "the fishiest of


modern capitals." The conflicts of the

and he proceeded todescribe them in the


London Graphic for his readers.

St.

John's,

Royal
trative

of

centre

trade; so

nations, although finally

their

mark

in the

French origins,

left

form of towns with

like Placentia,

"

Because of its inhospitable landscape

resolved in

favour of the English, nonetheless

and

the

"French shore.
To these coasts in 1 786 came lames S.
Meres, the keeper of the logbook of the
Pegasus, under the command of William

Newfoundland
was the first land of
become Canada that was

and inclement

climate,

did not flourish.

It

what was to
touched by Europeans, but
it

did not attract

was the
tion.

Il7l

last

many

in later years

immigrants,

and

province to join Confedera-

)AMES

S.

PIACENTIA-THE FRENCH SETTLEMENT

MERES

A view of the

Seven Islands in
the harbour of Placenlia, Newfoundland

From the Logbook

1786

of H.M.S. Pegasus

Water-colour, 7Vjx 15 inches

18 1

PLACENTIA-THE FRENCH SETTLEMENT

To the Worshipfull Captains


John

Mason

who did wisely and worthily


governs there divers yeares

The Aire, in Newfound-Land is wholesome, good;


The Fire, as sweet as any made of wood;
The Waters, very rich, both salt and fresh;
The Earth more rich, you know it is no lesse.
Where all are good. Fire, Water, Earth, and Aire
What man made of these foure would not live there?
all those worthy Women, who have any desire to live
Newiound-Land, specially to the modest & discreet
Gentlewoman Mistris Mason, wife to Captaine Mason,

To
in

who

lived there divers yeeres.

Sweet Creatures, did you truely understand


The pleasant life you'd live in Newfound-land,
You would with teares desire to be brought thither:
wish you, when you goe, laire wind, faire weather:
For if you with the passage can dispence.
When you are there, know you'll ne'r come thetice.
I

To a worthy Friend, who often objects the coldnesse


of the Winter in Newfound-Land, and may serve for all
those

who have

You say

that

Did not

this

the like conceit.

you would live in Newfound-land,


one thing your conceit withstand;

You feare the Winters cold, sharp, piercing ayre.


They love it best, that have once wintered there.
Winter is there, short, wholesome, constant, cleare.
Not thicke, unwholesome, shuffling, as 'tis here.

Skeltonian continued ryme,


New-found-Land.

in praise

of my

in cloaths, company, buildings faire.


With England, New-found-land cannot compare:
Did some know what contentment found there,
Alwayes enough, most times somewhat to spare.
With little paines, lesse toyle, and lesser care.
Exempt from taxings, ill newes, Lawing, feare.
If cleane and warme, not matter what you weare.
Healthy, and wealthy, if men carefull are.
With much much more, then will now declare,
(I say) if some wise men knew what this were,
(I doe beleeve) they'd live no other where.

Although

ROBERT HAYMAN Quodlibets

19}

628

)AMES

S.

MERES

PtACENTIA- THE FRENCH SETTLEMENT

The town and the harbour of Placentia, Newfoundland from Castle

From

the

Logbook

of H.M.S. Pegasus

20

Hill

1786

PLACENTIA-THE FRENCH SETTLEMENT

Water-colour, g'Ax JO'/s inches

Placentia Bay isalsofull of harbours and


islands.

It

is

about

sixty miles

deep, and

about forty-five miles broad from Cape St


Mary's to Corbin Head, and from twenty
to thirty miles broad at different places
farther up. There is excellent cod-fishing
in this

bay; salmon

abound

and herring, &c., frequent

it,

in its rivers,

as well asall

these bays, periodically. The lands are

strongly fortified,

and endeavoured

at

that time to drive the English altogether

One hundred and


shipscan lieinsafety within the harbour, the entrance of which only admits

out of the fisheries.


fifty

one

vessel at a time. There

strand or beach

between two

is

a great

hills, suf-

ficiently extensive for sixty ships to

and dry

their fish on.

From

the

cure

head of

rugged and barren, and the shores are

Placentia Bay to Trinity, the isthmus

among
many ex-

which connects the peninsula of Avalon


to the main body of Newfoundland is
low, and little more than three miles
over. The fishermen haul their skiffs

lined with

islands

and

rocks,

which, however, there are


cellent harbours. There are five or six extensive establishments in this bay.
Placentia,

was

on the

east side of the bay,

across.

the chief settlement planted by the

French

in

Newfoundland. They had

I 21

it

MCGREGOR
America

British

1832

PLACENTIA- THE FRENCH SETTLEMENT

lAMESS. MERES

The town and harbour of

From

the

Logbook

Newtoundland from

Placentia,

the

back of the town

hill

1786

of H.M.S. Pegasus

Water-colour, 9 'Ax 35 inches

It

was about

the 14th June that

length sailed from


tain

St.

John's.

had received directions

we

at

Our Cap-

to

proceed

to the Slraigha oi Belle-isle, in order to

protect the fisheries established

on

the

southern Coasl of Labrador.

When
served an

quitting the harbour,

immense mountain

we

ob-

for

During the remainder of this day, we


ran towards the south, with a gentle
breeze from the north-west: and having
passed Petty Harbour, Bay of Bu//s,
Witless and Momables Bays, we reached

The summit of
this majestic headland was now covered
with snow, and many small vessels were
busily employed fishing along its base.
At daylight, on lune the 15th, we
doubled the promontory of Cape Race;
but as the wind blew in very light airs
at sun-set.

American privateers

were accustomed to lie in wait, to intercept the English merchant ships bound

These islands are small and barren; and


navigable

Cape Race and Cape Pine is


Trepassy Bay, and there is a small
town situate near its head.

called

fogsof Newfoundland, unnoticed

fishing

account of the country: although

yune the 16th.

In

the forenoon,

crossed the mouth of a deep


Placentia Bay.

When

we

gulf, called

the French had

possession of the southern parts of Newshores of

this

bay, and

made

the Capital of their territory.

Placentia
It

is still

considerable place, and ranks next to

strait,

that

is

only for small vessels.

There

is

one

peculiarity attending the

any
be

in

it

very important that mariners navigating


this coast should be apprised of the

foundland, they built a town upon the


a

circumstance.

whole
land
is

it

is

It

often occurs, that the

ocean around Newt'oundenveloped in so dense a fog, that

of the

apparently impossible for a ship to

proceed on her course, without incurring the most imminent danger of shipwreck: but,

at the

same

time, there

is

generally a small space, within a mile


St.

John's in extent and population.

Towards night-fall, we were off Cape


Chapeau-Rouge, the western extremity
of Placentia Bay; and we could perceive
the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon,
at

reached farther than Cape Pine, a


low point of land covered with trees. It
that the

St.

a short distance towards the west.

not, at night-

fall,

was here

River

the

in

are divided by a

ing aground, in forty fathoms' water, off

from the north-west, we had

ports

of ice, ly-

the entrance.

Cape Broyle

different

Lawrence: until the vigilance of Admiral


Sir Richard Keats succeeded in clearing
the coast of them. The inlet between

or

two

of the shore

zone of

light

whole day off the islands of 5t. Pierre


and Miquelon: concerning which so
much has been said, in thedifferentTreaties between Great Britain and France.

it

around the coast: so

phaenomenon,
enabled to

entirely clear

were, forming a

person acquainted with


will, in

this

some

attain his port;

that a

singular
cases, be

while a strang-

on the other hand,


approach the island.

er,

yune the 17th. We were becalmed

itself,

of the vapour, and, as

is

afraid

to

the

22

CHAPPELL

Voyage of His Majesty's Shtp Rosamond


toundland
Labrador

and
1818

the

Southern

to

New-

Coast

of

FISHERIES

PLACENTIA-THE FRENCH SETTLEMENT

British

shipping occupied

foundland
terwards,

The fisheries are entitled

few words
of separate consideration in concluding
our chapter on Newfoundland. They
have ever since the discovery of North
America been the theme of the particular
to a

fisheries

however,

in

the

New-

some years

Lawrence at the distance of three leagues


from

all coasts belonging to Great Britwhether continental or insular.


Their fisheries out of the gulf were not to
be carried on but at the distance of fifteen
leagues from the coast of Cape Breton.

af-

increased apace,

ain,

and in 1 61 5 it amounted to 250 vessels,


whose aggregate burden was 1,500 tons;
the total number of French, Biscayan,
and Portuguese ships employed at the
same date were 400.

Byanotheranicleofthetreaty the islands


of

St.

Pierre

and Miquelon are ceded

to

Anterior to the Treaty of Utrecht, the

France as a shelter for French fishermen,

solicitude, not ofCreatBritainalone, but

extentofthe respective rights of those na-

and Portugal, and

tions who participated in the advantages

under an express stipulation against their


being fortified, or guarded by more than

of France, Spain,

subsequently of the United States of


America, and have evidently been es-

teemed
tance

a subject of the utmost impor-

in the

volving the

negotiation of all treaties inBritish,

French, or American

interestsonthewesternsidethe Atlantic,
it appears thatas early as 151 7 about fifty
French, Spanish, and Portuguese vessels

were engaged

in

the cod-fishery of the

Banks, whilst England had but one ship

employed
this

unit

in that quarter;

and although

appears to have,

in 1578,
increased to fifteen, the fishing trade of

the other

powers had improved

in a far

Newfoundland fisheries was never

of the

rather

foundland
ing,

more
itself,

distinct

light.

were thereby exclusively

left in

the

possession of Great Britain, the French

under the thirteenth article,


and using
the shores of the islands between particular points, viz. from Point Riche (which
the French afterwards pretended to be
the same as Cape Ray), round the north
retaining,

the rightoffishing on the banks

extremity of the island, to


ta

on

Cape Bonavis-

the eastern coast. By the treaty of

peace concluded

was confirmed to France, and the right


was extended to fishing in the Gulf of St.

by

it,

tor the police.

New-

period no less than

50 ships engrossed
Spain 100, and Portugal 50. The

men

and the islands adjoin-

greater degree, France having at that


1

fifty

defined, but that treaty placed matters in

in

t23

763, this privilege

BoucHfrre

The

British

Dominions

in

North America

1832

ST.

JOHN'S -ENGLAND IN

NEWFOUNDLAND

S^^.
lAMESS. MERES

Entrance to the harbour of

From

the

Logbook

Water-colour,

Theentrance to St John's Harbour forms


a long and extremely narrow strait, but
not very difficult of access. There are
about twelve fathoms' water in the middle of the channel, with tolerable

good

St.

John's,

Newfoundland

6%x

14 inches

was one of the ships


had sailed from Corfc in our convoy,
about six weeks before.

has not been forgotten; but the dangers

In

addition to the fortifications already

noticed, there are several other strong

lofty per-

fortresses

an amaz-

town, so as to render this place perfectly

and the

secure against any sudden attack. Fort


Townshend is situate immediately over

upon

the north side;

southern shore only appears

less striking

from a comparison with


the opposite rocks. There isalightshewn
every night on the left side of the enin

its

attitude,

trance;
tery

where

and

there are also a small bat-

a signal-post.

Other

batteries of

upon

the town, and

the heights around the

is

the usual residence of

Governor. Forts Amherst and


W/7//am are more towards the north; and
there is also a small battery perched on
the top of a single pyramidal mount,
the

which

called the Crow's Nest.

greater strength appear towering

above

eminences towards the

north.

At the upper part of the harbour, and

about two-thirds of the distance

upontheeasternsideof it, thereisasmall


place styled the King's Dock-yard,

the rocky

At

between the entrance, and what may


properly be termed the harbour itself,
there lies a dangerous shelf, called the
Chain Roc/c; so named from a chain
which extends across the strait at that
place, to prevent the admission of any
hostile fleet. Mariners, on entering this
place, ought to beware of approaching
too near the rocks beneath the

light-

house point. At the time we sailed by


them, the masts of a large ship were still
visible

above the water,

that

had

a short

time before been forced by the swell

where she immediately foundered. We were afterwards


concerned to hear, that the unfortunate

upon those

rocks,

Bermuda

tion. In

that

pendicular precipices
ing height,

considering

vessel in question

anchorage ground. The most


rise, to

1786

of H.M.S. Pegasus

is

although

deserve

it

can scarcely be said

this title.

there, the

At the time

to

we were

Admiral was very intent upon

enlarging and improving

its

condition.

It

may not be amiss to add one reflection on


the obvious policy of rendering

St.

/ohn's

considerable naval depot; for notwithstanding that we possess so fine an arsea

nal as Halifax

upon the coastof Amer/ca,

manifest
will

in

this pwint,

the approach to that island

ever render

utility,

its

as a naval

depot, of precarious advantage to our


fleets.

The harbour of St. lohn's is most exposed to heavy gales from the northwest: as the wind from that point rushes
with extreme violence through a valley
to the left of the town.
On first entering the bays and ports of
Newfoundland, the attention of a
stranger is mostly attracted by the
remarkable appearance exhibited by the
innumerable stages erected along the
sea-side forthesaltinganddryingof cod.
The shores around the harbour of St.
lohn's are entirely covered with them,
and their construction is particularly
simple.

Numerous

supporters, exactly

resembling Kentish hop-poles, are


fixed in the ground: over these

is

first

placed a

horizontal platform of similar poles; and


the

whole

is

finally

overspread with a

coveringof dry fern. This sort of structure


is

called, by the fishermen, a Fish Flake:

not so

but there are other stages, erected in a

open to the attacks of an enemy; and it


would be an excellent resort for our

similarmanner, although standingpartly

yet Nev.'toundland, as an island,

cruizers during the

is

summer months,

any mischance, be
deprived of the former valuable acquisishould

we,

by

{24

inthe water, with a hut at their extremity,


for the reception

and

salting of the cod,

removal to the f/a/ces,


for the purpose of beingdried in the sun.
previous to

its

final

ST.

lOHN'S-ENCLAND

NEWFOUNDLAND

IN

wsmF

pr^H?^sSfer%^

JAMES

S.

MERES

The town of

From

the

St.

John's

and

Fort

Townshend, Newfoundland

1786

Logbook of H.M.S. Pegasus

Water-colour, 5 x 14'A inches

The Capital of Newfound/and consists


of one very narrow street, extending en-

along one side of the port. The


houses are principally built of wood; and

tirely

there are very few

handsome

good-looking edifices

and

is

able, by

paved;

not

weather,

it

in

upon very

street stands

is

or

even

the place. This

irregular ground,

therefore,

in

wet

rendered almost impass-

mud and

There are a great

filth.

holds his situation forthree years; and he


is,

during this time. Commander-in-chief

of the naval force


limits of his

employed within

resides in a fortress
John's,

the

government. He usually

and returns

power of the

to

England

for the

island

is

vested

in

handsofthe Military Commandant,


is

styled

the

the

who

Lieutenant-Governor of

Tavern, however, has a good billiard-

Newfoundland. In the event of the


decease of this last personage, the government devolves on the Chief lustice of

room attached to

St.

number
scarcely

of small

one

tions are very

public-houses,

tolerable inn: the

but

London

it. Shops of all descripnumerous; but most com-

John's

modities are extravagantly dear, particularly

the

meat, poultry, and vegetables, as

town receives

articles from

all its

supplies of those

Nova Scot/a. The number of

wharfs for lading ships

remarkable;

is

al-

most every petty merchant, indeed, possesses one of his own: and there is,
besides these, a fine broad quay, called
the Government Wharf, which is open

accommodation of the public.


The Island of Newfoundland is
governed by a Vice-adm ral of the British
Navy, whose jurisdiction extends also
over the coast of Labrador, from Cape
Charles to Mount joli, together with the
small islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon
on the south, and Anticosti in the mouth
of the River S(. Lawrence. The Governor
for the

prevails

the fishery in the

above the town of St.

winter months. During his absence, the


chief

vitae which
month of
between
the
December and the recommencement of

antidote to the taedium

licentiousness of the Irish fishermen,

in St.

yohn's

as might be expected, in a place

is

such

where

the majority of the principal inhabitants

have risen from the lowest fishermen.


The vulgar arrogance of these upstarts is
sometimes both ludicrous and offensive.
Literature and polished manners are here
unknown; and a stranger must not be
surprised to observe a constant violation

of the most ordinary rules of speech.

The lower classes are generally compxjsed

of turbulent

Irishmen,

unwearied industry during the

purchase of some trifling article, upon


one of the quays in St. John's; when, in
consequence of being much hurried, he
was so negligentasto leave his purseand
gloves upon a log of timber near the
place. The towncrier was authorized to

winter. Indeed,

all

recov-

than half

an hour afterwards, the purse and gloves


to the owner, by a tattered
wretch, as destitute in his appearance as

were restored

the meanest pauper.

The purse con-

tained about ten pounds steding, in the


current notes of the island.

The trading commodities of Newfoundland are so weW known, that it will


only be requisite to say, the exports consist of fish, oil, and a very few furs: the
imports are, provisions, clothing,
fishing-gear,

pear to consider debauchery as the only

for the

in less

whose

ranks of society ap-

Us

an adequate reward

ery of the property; and

fishing

season in summer is forcibly contrasted


with their unbounded licentiousness in

it

be no more than justice to mention


an instance of honesty in one of their
class. The author had been making a
will

offer

The state of society

May following.

Having spoken of the industry and

salt,

and some India goods.

CHAPCELL

Voyage of His Ma/esly's Ship Rosamond


foundland
Labrador

aryd

1818

the

Southern

to

New-

Coast

of

describe

In trying to

John's, there

St.

ST.

lOHN'S-ENGLAND

IN

NEWFOUNDLAND

is

an adjective sufficiently distinctive and appropriate. We find other cities coupled with

some difficulty

in

applying to

it

words which at once give their predominant characteristic: London the


richest, Paris the gayest,

St.

Petersburg

one respect the chief town


of Newfoundland has, believe, no rival:
the coldest.

In

we

may, therefore,

modern

capitals.

call

it

Round

the fishiest of

a great part of

the harbour are sheds, acres in extent,

roofed with cod


slates,

drying

for there

in

split in half, laid

not

is

on

like

the sun, or rather the

much

air,

of the former to

depend upon. Those ships, bearing nearly

every flag

the world, are laden with

in

cod; those stout weatherly boats crowding

up

wharves have

to the

just

now

re-

turned from fishmg for cod; those few

with lean

of cultivation

scant fields

crops coaxed out of barren

soil,

manured with cod; those

trim,

wooden

their

looking

some

furniture,

musical ski
it,

the satin

houses,
the

piano,

handand the

of the young lady who plays

gown of the mother,

chain of the father, are

al

the gold

paid for in cod;

the breezes from the shore, soft

warm on

are

snug-

this bright

Augustday, are

and
rich,

not with the odours of a thousand flowers,

and

but of a thousand cod. Earth, sea,


air,

are alike pervaded with this

fish. There is only one place


which appears to be kept sacred from its
intrusion, and strange to say, that is the
dinner table; an observation made on its
absence from that apparently appro-

wonderful

priate position, excited as

much

aston-

had made a remark to a


Northumberland squire that he had not
a head-dish of Newcastle coals.
ishment, as

if

CO. WARBURTO.N
Hochelaga;

or,

England

in the

New World

1846

[2b

ST

lOHNS- ENGLAND

IN

NEWFOUNDLAND

ANONYMOUS
A view of the Upper and

the harbour

Newfoundland.
From a little below Fori William showing
1790
the packing of cod fish on the wharf

of

St.

John's,

Water-colour, 13V<x 20'A inches

i27

NEWFOUNDLANDERS

It is

difficult to calculate the

of a

town which

fectly
this

Cambier,

per-

40 houses and
amount of 500,000 being
then consumed. Within a few days after

part of

another conflagration destroyed nearly

another, erected by the efforts of the

population

with increased severity,

varies so constantly. At

the height of the fishing season

it is

crowded, but the greater

fairly rated at

about

town

has suffered frequently and severely by


fires: in

81 5 a great

was destroyed by a

the

town

one, and,

amount of property

attend

which

denominations

at St.

John's,

for children of

both

and Roman creeds,

who

the

to

Benevolent

that

Irish

number

of

and

300,

Society, the benefits of

700 or 800
weekly newspapers published, and a book society has
been established.

in the

are extended

to

children. There are three

places of public worship of various

visitation of this sort,

1802,

in

the protestant

was left by the former


August of the same year,
afourth calamityof the like kind inflicted
another loss upon the town. There are
all

may be

1,000. This

property to the

population returns with the vessels to

Europe. The resident population

and two

BOUCHETTE
The British Dominions

whichwasrepeated in November, 1817,

school-houses, one established by Lord

[ijildnjkiif-

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL


Captain Smart, Commodore of the

<

A Newfoundland "Padre"
Pencil drawing,

both colonies are equally

and

it

Is

true,

very improvident

habits to contend with; but they are, as

Newfoundland

a body, not addicted to drunkenness;

yet, for

want of

management, or rather from a cause


which propose to treat of at large in a
small work on Newfoundland, the poor
fishermen there remain more ignorant
and more helpless than any other people
similarly employed. The inhabitants of
Newfoundland, chiefly of the Irish stock,
I

have had,

their

women

are careful mothers

good wives; and

am

persuaded

28

intercourse

with the distant stations,

New-

that

foundland as the world can boast of.


Inured to toil, hardy, and healthy, having

little is

when

can be distributed, by
and a more direct

there will be as excellent a race in

dition as

tives of the island; and,

ings of education

the formation of roads,

and

wanting to render their conhappy as that of the Guernsey


and lersey men of the Bay of Chaleurs.
Nationalities and animosities must
give way; a new race is fast springing up,
who pride themselves upon being nabut

878

6%x 4V4 inches

fisherman to be as moral as any peasantry in the world;

832

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL


1878

Fisheries Fleet

hard worked, and are equal ly moral; for


believe, as a race, the

he-4f,^-i,.JU.^y

Pencil drawing, 6 x 4 'A inches

in

North America

.(../ f^.
^> ^tui

The people

in

the bless-

but

little

race

idle time, the progenitors of this

now

exhibit qualities

which only

require fostering to be developed and


brighten.
R H

BONNVCASTLE

Ihe Canada

in

1841

1841

"

L'ACADIE

while France and England scrapped


over the fishing

rights

and

territorial

an invaluable, first-hand record of this


formative period and the years following

claims in Newfoundland, they were also

it.

locked

at

in a struggle

over the possession

of the mainland regions.

When

Such pictures as A. C. Mercer'sCitadel


Daybreak, ana lames Fox Bland's

were

largely

first

who often spent only short

he did not know it at the time, the few


Acadians inside the fort would cause the
dispersal of the whole French-speaking
population of L'Acadie. lohn Winslow's
poignant account describes the fate of
the Acadians who were forced to leave
the homes they had so recently won from

in the colony before

thewilderness. With the departure of the

French, the English were free to concentrate

on

settling

moved the

the Maritimes.

They

taste and achievementwereemulated by

administrative headquarters

from Annapolis Royal to hialifax, which


became "the great British naval depot of
North America.

The citadel that the British Army built


at Halifax housed the officers who left us

subsequent postings

West Indies or recall to England.


Without the American Revolution, it is

unlikely that the Maritime provinces

would have the character they have


Towns such as the Fredericton
depicted by Mercerowed theirexistence
to the Loyalists and the timber trade. The
large influx of displaced Loyalists,

783 headed

for the nearest

lived graciously

and whose standards of

the other colonists.

The colonial population of the Mariwas an


unusual, though prophetic, mixture. The
French-speaking Acadians
returned
times in the nineteenth century

who

and they, with the English, Scotand Irish immigrants from the Thirteen Colonies and Great Britain, occupied a land once subject only to

land

an

today.

America. The Loyalists and the military


provided the foundation for a

officers

tours of duty

to the

after

slowly,
tish,

impressive

native

people.

The

Indians

had

Micmac and Malecite

under the protection of the English


crown, defined the cultural basis of the
Maritime provinces. They settled in
pockets throughout Nova Scotia, which
then included New Brunswick and

employed "making

Prince Edward Island, giving the land a

sale."

I29l

climate

cautious and conservative society which

impressions of

ton sketched Fort Beausejour, although

social

unlike anything else in British North

Camp
men

evocative Point Pleasant Military

the English officer lohn Hamil-

and

material culture

suffered greatly from the influx of the

white man and, as I.E. Alexander relates,

were in the nineteenth century often only


light

baskets

for

JOHN HAMILTON

Fort

THE ENCIISH VICTORY

Cumberland, formerly

Water-colour,

Sent for Father Landrey TFieir Principal


Speaker who Talks English and Told him
I

the Time was Come for part of the Inhabi-

Embarke and that the Number


Concluded for this Day was 250 and that
we Should begin with the young men
and Desired he would Inform his
bretherinof it. he was greatly Surprised.
Told him it must be Done and that
Should order the whole Prisoners to be
Drawn up Six Deep, their young men on
the Left, and as the Tide in a Very Little
time Favoured my Design Could not
Give them above an Houerto Prepare for
going on Board, and ordered our whole
Party to be under Arms and Post them
Selves between the Two Gates & the
Church in the rear of my Quarters, which
was obeyed, and agreable to my Directions The whole of the French Inhabitants were Drawn together In one Body
theiryoungmenas Directedon the Left.
tants to

Adams with a Lieut


80 NonCommission officers and Private
Men to Draw of from the main Body to

then ordered Capt

gaurd the young

men

of the French

9%x

Nova

Fort Beausejour,

amountingto 141 Men to the Transports


and order ye Prisoners to March, they all
answered they would No go without
their Fathers. Told them that was a word
I

did not understand for that the Kings

Command was to be

absolute

& Should

be absolutely obeyed & That Did not


Love to use Harsh Means but that the
time Did not admit of Parlies or Delays
and Then order the whole Troops to Fix
I

their

Scotia

1755

14%lnche5

Bayonets and advance Towards the

French and Bid the 4 Eight hand


the Prisoners Consisting of 24

up in a Body as said the number who


upon Capt Adams return ordered of
under a Guard Commanded by Capt
Osgood one Subaltern 80 non Commission officers and Private men, who
marched of them, but when he Came to
put them on board the Vessels Found
them but 89 Instead of 109. So that the
number Embarqued was but 230 and
Thus Ended this Troublesome Jobb,
which was Scheen of Sorrow.
I

Files of

men wich

my Self to Divied from the rest,


Took hold on (who
one of whome
told of

lOHN WINSLOW
1 755

lournal

oposed the Marching) and bid March, he


obeyed & the rest followed, thoh Slowly,
and went of Praying, Singing & Crying
being Met by the women & Children all
the way (which is 1 Vs mile) with Great
Lamentations upon their Knees, praying
&c.

Ithenorderedthe remaining French to


1 09 of Their marryed men to

Chuse out

follow their young People (the Ice being


Broke) they readily

Complyed and Drew

30

have the highest Satisfaction in beginthis Letter to your Lordships, with


the Account that the French Fort at
Beausejour surrendered to Lieut. ColoI

ning

Monckton

the 1 6th [June 1 755] Inand the next Day a small Fort upon
the River Gaspereau running into the Bay
Verte where the French had their prinnel

stant;

THF FNr.LISHVirTllRV

H.

BASTIDE

Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia


Water-colour,

Magazine for supplyingthe French


and Indians: In these Forts
werefound a great quantity of Provisions
and Stores of all kinds of which Colonel
Monckton has not yet had time to transcipal

Inhabitants

mit

me

a particular account.

enclose

Your Lordships the Terms of Capitulation.


Notwithstanding the Fort at
Beausejour had twenty-six pieces of
Cannon mounted, they surrendered after
four Days Bombardment, before we had
even mounted a single Cannon upon our
Batteries. Our loss upon this occasion is
very inconsiderable, not above twenty
killed

&

as

many wounded.

Colonel Monckton has

new named

the

and called it Fort Cumberland: he


gives the Troops under his Command
great praise for their good behaviour and
acted

&

upon

resolution with
this

1757

V2 inches

Annapolis county is bounded on the


north and west by the Bay of Fundy.
The first European settlements in Nova
.

Scotia
this

were established by the French

county,

in

who made some very exten-

improvements. After the expulsion


became an
object of attention to the people of the
sive

of the Acadians, their lands

considerable

British colonies, a

whom

removed

number

and
obtained a grant of the township of Annapolis. This township contains a conof

thither in 1764,

which they

occasion.

is still

for

its

province while

in

theirpossession. Itwas

also the seat of the British


until

750,

when

it

defence are

leading to

now

in

a state of

all

parts of the province; a

coach runs through Granville,


Wilmot, Aylesford, Cornwallis, Windsor, and Newport, to Halifax; and a
steam

good. Annapolis is the county town.


Itwasfounded by the French, whocalled
it Port Royale, and was the capital of the

contains a

stage

John's,

gener-

It

decay. There are several good roads

and the upland, though stony,

is

a respectable town.

government house, a court house, an


episcopalian and methodist church, an
academy, commodious barracks, and
several handsome private buildings. The
military works erected at various times

siderable quantity of valuable dike land;

ally

Fort

the spirit

MVj x

packet plies constantly to

New

St.

Brunswick. The trade of

town is comparatively insignificant


what it formerly was, business being
removed to more convenient and better
this

to

circumstanced settlements.

government

was superseded as
isbuilt upon a

such by Halifax. The town


peninsula, which

projecting into the

forms two beautiful basins, one


above and one below the town It has not
river,

Quoted from

a leUer

by charies lAWRfNCE. Lieu-

tenant'Covernor of Nova Scotia, to the Lord


missioners of Trade

1755

and

P/antations

Com-

June 28,

much

increased

in size

or population

since the conquest of the province, but

I 31

it

BOUCHETTE

The

British

Dominior)s

in

North America

1832

PRINCE

EDWARD ISLAND

CHARLES RANDALL
Charlottetown on the Island of St. )ohn (Prince Edward Island)
Water-colour, 3 'A x

ca.

1778

9% inches

The Principal settlement in this county is


Charlotte Town the seat of government
and metropolis, ifitmay besotermed, of

This island

the island. ...

French afterwards assumed it, as part of


thediscoveriesofVerazani;andin 1663
a grant of it was made by the company of
New France; but the anxiety of the government of France to foster the colony of

ficial survey of it under the British government was accomplished by the late
Major Holland, then his majesty's sur-

Cape Breton inducedthemtoafford little


countenance or encouragement to that
of the island of St. John. The natural ad-

islandwasshortly afterward divided into


sixty-seven townships, containing about

respect of soil

severally to such inhabitants as govern-

It

stands nearly in the

centre of the island, with

which
either

all

parts of

it
has ready communication,
by water or good roads. The

ground on which it is built rises with a


gentle slope from the river's edge to a
moderate height; the streets are regularly
laid

80

out

in rectangles, in

building lots of

and 160 depth, with


chosen intervals for

feet frontage

vacancies

at

squares; the

number

of houses already

amounts to nearly 400, several of


more recent being of very handsome

built

the

appearance.

was amongst

the early dis-

coveries of Cabot; but no claim

made by the Engl ish on that account. The

vantages of the island,

in

and its situation for fishing, however, induced many families both from Cape
Breton and Acadia to settle here after the
peaceof Utrecht. The surrender of Louisbourg to Great Britain in 1 758 was
followed by the cession of this island:
from several appearances observed on
the island at this possession,

BOUCHETTE
The British Dominions

in

North America

1832

was ever

it

was

in-

great measure, assimilated.

veyor-general
family

now

North America, whose

on the

island.

The

to

have claims upon

them. One condition (amongst others) of


the grants was, thatthey should be settled

within ten years,

in

the ratio of

one

per-

son to each 200 acres, one fourth of such


settlement to be effected within the

first

fouryears with emigrants from Europe or


otherpartsof America.

been inhabited by tribes of Micmac Indians, with whom the Acadians had, in a

ti

in

reside

ment conceived

nal grantees,

32

John's

20,000 acres each, which were granted

ferred thatthe principal part of it had long

St.

was associated with the government of


Nova Scotia in 1763, and in 1776 the of-

Many of theorigi-

however, surrendered, or

alienatedtheir property,

which

in

a short

me became monopol ized by a compar-

PRINCE

EDWARD ISI AND

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL


)ohn James Macdonald of
Prince Edward Island
Pencil drawing,

atively

few individuals; but when the

lands of the adjacent colonies

more
land

thickly peopled, the value of the

became more

in this island

appreciated and

1768 the
rate

became

island

justly

greater request. In

in

was erected

government, though

into a sepa-

at that

time

it

possessed not more than five resident


proprietors, nor did

inhabitants exceed

subsequent

its

150

five years

total

number

of

families. For the

much

pains were

endurance of the hardship incidental to


early settlement, and their persevering
pursuit of wealth and substance, with
much more neglect of what we term
comfort; and the Irish by a more eager

or winter sledge-carriage, they are

(though the advantage of such a multiplicityof pursuits is somewhat more than

riole,

readily able to procure such indulgen-

portations of Acadians,

cies.

and other disbanded troops.

Charlotte

Town

is

the only place

where

people are sufficiently congregated to


form any thing that can be termed society,

and, this being, the capital, pos-

sesses of course persons of every class.

1878

3% x 8% inches

Those who are received at the castle, or


government house, being deemed the
superiors, have assemblies, balls, dinners amongst themselves, and sometimes amateur theatricals. Others indulge in picnic, or what in England
would be termed gipsy parties, in making
country excursions, and each taking his
own provisions. As almost every housekeeper is the owner of a horse and a car-

taken to increase the settlements by im-

Highlanders,

The farmers and

husbandmen

desire to secure temporary advantages

andthemeansof presentindulgence. All


those occupied in husbandry and farming, to which many join some share in the
fishery, timber,

and ship-building trades

equivocal) find abundant

employment

comprise every class American loyalists, Acadian French, and emigrants

duringthe year, without seeking to share


the amusementsof the town, or substitut-

from England, Scotland, and Ireland,


whose manners, even in this distant but
desirable exile, are in a great measure

ing others of a

more

rural description.

influenced by their national characteristics

and

peculiarities. English settlers

by the cleanliness,
and propriety of their establishment; Scotchmen by their patient
are distinguished

neatness,

33

),

BOUCHETTE

The

British

Dominions

in

North America

1832

NOVA SCOTIA-CITADEl OF THE NORTH ATUNTIC

V:

'SSIS^^

3*

34

'S*.-

NOVA SCOTIA-CITADEL OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC

The harbour of Halifax isone of the finest


America.

in

it

A thousand vessels may

in

in safety. ...

lies

It

terminates

of

nearly north and

south, aboutsixteen miles in length,


in a beautiful

The lower end

of the

harbour by

Nova

moonlight, Halifax,

Scotia

From the Logbook of H.M.S. Pegasus


Water-colour, 6Vjx

13% inches

1786

ment

MERES

Nova

Scotia

Water-colour,

8x19

Halifax,

be

a place of

considerable

of the lower

on the establishAmerican provinces,

ery

and

On

the south-east coast of

trade.

Nova

Scotia,

and nearly at an equal distance from its


extreme points, Halifax harbour enters

Sherbrooke Tower, a circular stone baton the topof which is a lantern. This
island forms two entrances to the har-

fortified,

to

summer

has ever since that period

but also as the centre of a profitable fish-

the province.
sible,

and

is

It

seasons acces-

at all

navigation scarcely ever

its

The harbour is not


interrupted by ice.
only safe to approach, but from having

isonly

sufficient

width

to

work

a ship against a

contrary wind, easy to enter: the water

is

deep enough for the largest ship in the


navy, and there is abundance of room for

town is George Island, which is regularly


S.

it

quarters of the troops

used by small vessels, and the western,


which is used by all ships bound to and
from Halifax. Immediately opposite the

His Majesty's Careening Yard,

settled in the

first

His Majesty's Ships, and as the head

which are
ten square miles of safe anchorage. The
entrance is marked by Sambro Head, on
which a lighthouse was erected soon
after the settlement was established.
Three miles from Halifax, near the mouth
of the harbour, lies M'Nabb's Island, on
the western side of which stands
ter,

JAMES

749, and

importance, not only as a rendezvous for

sheet of water

bour theeastern passage, which

continued

and

called Bedford Basin, within

lAMESS. MERES

was

Halifax

ride

and forms the chief defence of

anchorage.

the place.

1786

MCGREGOR
and Descriptive Sketches of the Mari1 828
time Colonies of British America
I

inches

Historical

BOUCHETTE

The

British

Dominions

in

North America

The admiral's house

a plain stone

is

end
of the town, on a rising ground, which
commands a view of the harbour and
building, built in

shipping.

It

is

81 9, at the north

appropriated for the

resi-

North America, ina healthy climate, and


in the midst of a country abounding in
timber, and

all

kindsofprovisions, atlow

The Bermuda

Islands are

little

better than acluster of rocks, in the

mid-

prices.

dence of the Admiral, for the time being,


commandingthe squadron on the Amer-

dle of the ocean, of extremelydangerous

ican station. There isalsoa large wooden

with a scanty

building, apparently uncomfortable, for

access, covered only in detached spots


soil.

MCGREGOR
Historical and Descriptive Sketches of the Mari1828
time Colonies of British America

the military

commandant. The north and

south barracks, built also of wood, are


extensive enough to accommodate three
regiments. The other government buildings are the Ordnance
Stores,

and Commissariat
Naval Hospital, Dock Yard. &c.

His Majesty's

Dock Yard

is

the most

respectable establishment of the kind out


Its plan is extensive, and
combines within the stone wall, which
surrounds it on the land side, all that is
useful and convenient for repairing and

of England.

During the war [Halifax] was the great


British naval depot of North America,
and the dock-yard establishment gave
life and employ to the city; but a few
years since a great portion of

it

was trans-

Bermudas, as being central


between the North American colonies
and the West Indies, and the harbour not
ferred to the

pectable-looking

being liable to be closed by the ice during


the winter months. There are greatobjections, however, to Bermuda, on the score

there a

of the climate,

refittingthe largest ships.

Attached to it

is

theresidenceofthecommissioner; a reshouse. Never was


more egregious measure entered
upon, than that of removing the naval

stores from Halifax, for the

purpose of es-

dock yard, for the use of His


Majesty's Ships on the American station
at Bermuda; theabsurdityofwhichistoo
tablishing a

palpable, not to be seen into


all

at

who have any knowledge

once, by
of both

places. Halifax has the best harbour in

r.

naval stores

would

in

in half a

which destroys more


one year than Halifax
dozen. The admiral and

commissioner divide their time of residence equal ly between the two stations,
and were on the point of sailing for Ber-

muda when we quitted

Halifax.

COKE

Subaltern's Furlough

1833

Though our present fortifications have


cost large sums of money, at least the
Government has given and is charged
with immensesums, (howmuchof ithas
been misapplied, will not take upon
myself to say), yet would now engage
that^vo ships of the line would destroy
the whole settlement; butthatwillnotbe
I

the case,
as

it

when the

harbour, and
or

citadel

overlooks the town,

make any

T. C.

HALIBURTON

An

Historical

Scotia

is

is

completed,

commands the

too high forships to reach

impression on

and

Statistical

it.

Account of Nova

tents

here

among

the evergreens.

Yonder you see the soldiers, looking like


masses of red fruit amidst the spicy verdur of the spruces. Row upon row of
tents, and file upon fileof men standing at
ease, each one before his knapsack, his
little

socks, shirts, brushes, razors,

is

Sir

open

for inspection.

John Gaspard

brilliant staff,

are eight streets running through the

town, intersected by

le

outwith regularity, some of them paved,

and the others macadamized. The town


andsuburbsare upwardsoftwo miles in
length, and about half a mile in width. It
has been very much improved within the
There are meat, vegetable,

each medal-decorated hero, and marking down every hole in his socks, and
every gap in his comb, for the honor of
the service.

And

this Point Pleasant

is

and

markets,

fish

extremely well

all

The fish, in point of quality,


variety, and cheapness, may vie with any
supplied.

in
I-

the world.

BOUCHETTE

The

British

Dominions

in

North America

1832

The capital of Nova Scotia looks like a


townof cards, nearly all the buildings being of wood. There are wooden houses,

wooden
wooden

churches,
slates,

and,

wooden
if

wharfs,

there are side

walks, they are of wood also.


I-

BISHOP

The Englishwoman

in

1856

North America

seams and channels of


which potatoes bubble, and

fire,

over

roast

and

their

boi led send forth a savory odor.

and

And here

there, wistfully regarding this active

amid the green shrubbery, standsa

scent,

sentinel before his sentry-box, built of

shoes,

yonder lies the blue harbor and


the ocean deeps. Just back ofthe tents is
thecookeryofthecamp, hugemoundsof

and other

loose stones, with grooves at the top,

for a

And

very

its

there

Marchant, with a

engaged

fifteen others, laid

lovelyplacetoo,witha broad look-outin

leather household, with

furniture

The town of Halifax is, in pwint of extent


and population, the third town in British
North America. Itwasfounded, upon the
first permanent settlement of the English
in this province, by Governor Cornwall is
in 1 749. It is situated on the western side
of the harbour, on the declivity of a hill
240 feet abovethe level ofthe sea. There

last five years.

1829

The Seventy -sixth Regiment has pitched


its

NOVA SCOTIA-CITADEL OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC

in the

pleasant

duty of picking a personal quarrel with

front, for

pie;
is

like the architecture of a

and

if

spruce boughs wrought intoa mimic military

temple, and fanciful enough, too,


garden of roses.

cranberry-

bean homely one, it


comes to mind to convey

the simile

the best that

an idea of those regimental stoves, with

36

F S

COZZENS

Acadia;

or,

A Month with the Blue Noses

1859

NOVA SCOTIA - CITADEL OF THE NORTH

ALEXANDER CAVALIE MERCER

ALEXANDER CAVALIE MERCER

The backyards of Halifax, Nova Scotia

The

from the
1842

window of the

Water-colour,

Halifax Hotel

Common and the Citadel

Halifax,

Nova

9x13

at sunrise,

August 22, 1838

Scotia

Water-colour, 6 V2 x

ATLANTIC

9% inches

)AMES FOX BLAND


The Encampment of the Royal Artillery
and the 76th Regiment at Point Pleasant,
Halifax,

Nova

Scotia

lune 1855

Waler<olour, 8V4 x 18'A inches

inches

i~

NOVA SCOTIA-CITADEL OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC

while employed during the

cupied by the troops are of wood, with


very little to recommend them, except
some fine mess-rooms, and a library instituted by Lord Dalhousie, when Governor of the province. A fire would prove
of infinite service towards beautifying

months. The position

the city, by destroying both

The citadel, which


fort

is

upon an old

raised

of smaller dimensions, will not be

completed
carried

on

garrison,

for

some

years; the

work

is

chiefly by the soldiers of the

who receive 9d.

per diem extra

is

summer
commanding

one, and a fine prospect

is

afforded from

great proportion of the private dwelling-

The barracks at present oc-

houses. Those even which are built of

the ramparts.

It

becomes our

painful duty to-day to

record the most destructive

ever occurred
dation.

On

in this city

Friday night

fire that

since

last,

its

has

foun-

about nine

time completely baffled


the

to

an

insuf-

supply of water, and the incapac-

of the limited number comprising the

o'clock, the building in Mollis Street, oc-

fire staff, to

cupied by Mr. Alderman Wills, paper


manufacturer, was discovered to be on
fire. The alarm bells sounded, and by the

moving

time any great number of persons assembled at the scene of the disaster, the

the efforts of

enginemen, and owing

ficient
ity

all

them and

check

it,

the flames spread

south, and west, and by three

in the morning some forty buildamong them some of the f nest and

o'clock
i

ngs,

not only completely

handsomest Halifax could boast of, were


laid in a heap of ruins, viz, the range of
buildings west side of Mollis street; east
and west sides of Granville street, and

but the

east side of Barrington Street, within the

building

some

which the fire originated was


wrapped in flames,
fire had communicated with
in

of the adjoining premises south,

and extended back into Granville Street,


wherethe buildings of Mr. John Richardson, Wetmore, Vaux & McCullouch, Mr.
A. & W. McKinlay, and J. A.
Graham, almost simultaneously became
enwrapped in flames. The fire, by this

Webb,

limits of

Duke and Buckingham

Streets,

together with the block of buildings

Ordnance Square, owned by James


Avery, Esq.

On

Barrington

on
F.

we must ex-

cept the premises of Esson &Co.; which

were saved through

the exertions of the

firemen, but mainly by the high brick

38

substantial materials are principally of

the shaley iron-stone rock of

peninsula

is

which the

formed, and which contains

such a quantity of the ore that


out

in

down

long streaks

it

oozes
and

the walls,

givesthemamostlugubriousand prisonlike
E-

appearance.

COKE

A Subaltern 's

1833

Furlough

wall, recently erected by the proprietors

Woolen Hall, in the rear of their


Had this wall not existed no
human efforts could have saved Esson's

of the

premises.

building;

and

once enveloped

that

in

flames, theoppositecorner (occupied by

& Co., piano forte manufacand Chalmer's Church would no


doubt have ignited; and owing to their
height, have spread the fire through the
Blockly

turers)

block, which, as

it

was, barely escaped

being consumed, the houses on the upper side of Barrington Street, being fired
severaltimes, but luckily put out.

It

was

thought on three or four occasions that


the

fire

would have extended south into


owing to the strenu-

Granville Street, but

ous efforts to save Mr. Crow's property


and from the fact of Mr. Roman's house
being built of stone, alone prevented

it

The education of the people is provided


for as well as in any of the BritishAmerican colonies. There is an university, called King's College, at Windsor;
Dalhousie

College

at

Halifax;

academies at Pictou, Annapolis, and


Kentville; grammer-schools at Halifax,
Windsor, Pictou, and Kentville. The
Society for Propagating the Gospel supports between forty and fifty schoolmasters; and schools have been established
in all the townships, aided by a very lib-

NOVA SCOTIA - erfADEl Of THE NORTH ATl>\NTIC

pecuniary grant from the provincial

eral

legislature.

.There are four professors


Col lege] one

[at the university of King's

Hebrew and

one of moral
science and metaphysics, one of mathematics, astronomy, and natural philosophy, and one of grammar, rhetoric
and logic. The students are eligible for
of

divinity,

Propagating the Gospel, each enjoying

301 per annum


are also

some

a valuable philosophical apparatus.

Subordinate to the college, and under


control,

is

tem of education

years. There are twelve divinity scholarI

Society

for

its

the collegiate school; the sys-

of the college, for

the

on the founThe college

possesses a large well-selected library,

and

the course occupies from four to seven

endowed by

seven years. There

dation of less emolument.

matriculation at the age of fourteen, and

ships,

for

scholarships

is

preparatory to that

which

it is

intended.

BOUCHETTE

The

British

Dominions

in

1832

North America

LEFEVRE JAMES

CRANSTONE
After the fire,
Halifax, Nova Scotia

1859
Water-colour,

6% X

12

finches

GEORGE HERIOT
Chief Justice
Blower's home and
King's College
near Windsor,

Nova

Scotia

1807
Water-colour,
5x7 inches

done so a large number of fine


brick and wooden stores in the opposite
block, besides a large amount of valuable goods would have becomea preyto

the stone buildings destroyed,

building.

and from the time of their arrival upon the


ground until the fire was extinguished,
they, as well asthemenof war sailors and
marines, worked like Trojans; and the
citizens owe them a deep debt of grati-

Some ideaof the rapidity with


which the fireextended may be gathered

.Another very foolish practice in putting

tude for the exertion they put forth to stay

from the fact that scarcely had property

wooden

been removed from burning stores to


those of their neighbors than they had to
be again removed in consequence of

seems

from extending

Had

in a

southerly direction.

it

theflames.

many of the premises in which the goods


were placed for safety havingthemselves
fallen a

prey to the devouring elements.

At the time the

last edifice

(Avery's

erty

built of stone,

is

it

had

like the rest of

wooden
was sup-

and sashes, which it


posed would have ignited, and con-

shutters

sumed
up

the

interior

brick buildings

of the

is

the placing of

cornices just below the roof.

as

though they are put

there, in-

stead of stone or iron ones, for the

purpose of attracting fire.


It is

erty
loss,

It

mere

almostcertain that the loss of prop-

$1,000,000, but the actual


taken as a whole, may be fully es-

is

fully

timated

at $1

,200,000.

Ordnance Square) was conseemed doubtful whether the

Commander-in-Chief
not being called upon until after a con-

"Muirhead property" opposite, now


owned by Mr. James Scott, would not

siderable lapse of time, to turn out the

havetaken, as although thiscorner prop-

able

building.

sumed,

it

Owing

the flames.

Some
this

idea of the "awful grandeur"

terrible

fire

presented

was seen some

sixty miles distant at sea.

Capt. Daly informs us that

had gained consider-

headway before

[39

the troops arrived;

it

was so visi-

ble off Cross Island light that at

supposed

it

to

have been

Margaret's Bay.

HAllfAX

Evening Express

Sepl. 12,

first

in vicinity

to the

military, the fire

may be

gleaned from the fact that the reflection

1859

he

of St.

THE OTHER PEOFIES

The Micmac Indians are an


harmless

inoffensive,

who

people,

are

daily

who had

structor,

vivacity or

very

little

of the

bonhomm/e of a Frenchman,

vanishing from the land of their fathers,

and was not very cleanly dressed for such

by the vv'hites, their


grant being but six hundred acres, of
which they only possess three hundred
and fifty fit for cultivation, or, in fact, at all
certainly belonging to them. They appear poor, and are, no doubt, much ex-

an unusual occasion. But the regularity

as they are shut in

posed

to the

chicanery of their neigh-

bours. Their interpreter,

breed,

and

it

is

a half-

seemed also a designing fellow;


was whispered, that they had not

much confidence

in their religious in-

JOHNG. TOLER
A Micmac Indian camp

who

near Halifax,

Nova

found the Indians occupying about a

dozen lodges
style,

built in the usual

of poles placed

ground, brought

on a

wigwam

circle

on the

and covered
men were
those who were at

to a point,

with birch bark. Most of the


out hunting or fishing,
the lodges

seemed

a slighter

made

race

than the Indians of the Canadian Lakes.

in

which

they

live,

their

innocent

behaviour, simplicity, and the acknowl-

edged merit of

their

conduct

country, wou Id, nevertheless,

in

the

seem to be

fostered by the priest.

The tribe consists of not more than


hundred and twenty -six souls, part
at the Mission, and the rest at New Richmond. Several were hunting upthe river,
and did not attend.
three

Scotia

1808

Water-colour,

13x17

light

coarse black

hair,

and chintz short gowns, cloth


and moccasins, and were mak-

petticoats

leggings

40

people in Canada;
and some of these cloth head-dresses
were beautifully worked in figures and
tracery, with the moose-hair and porcupines' quills, dyed in bright colours.
The younger women were extremely
clean; and the papouse, or child, in the
cradle on their backs, had a nicelyworked clean cap on, and appeared to
be neatly tended by the mother.
dress, peculiar to that

R.

H BONNYCASTLE

TheCanadas

in

784)

1841

inches

brown complexions,
and though it was hot
weather, some of them wore tunics of
blankets. The women, some of whom
had good-humoured oval faces and
good hair and eyes, were mostly in dark
They had

The Indian women here wear a short


body gown, and pointed conic head-

ing ight baskets for sale; also very handI

some

chair bottoms of birch bark, or-

namented with dyed porcupine quills,


and were embroidering very neatly on
cloth with beads and moose hair.
IE ALEXANDER
L'Acadie 1849

THE OTHER PEOPLES

Still,

however, especially

districts ol the

in

the remoter

province, there are excep-

tions to this character.

have seen

Indi-

tall conical capof cloth, bordered


with teads, their long cloaks fastened by

though of a more dingy hue. His hair,


long, coarse, and maintaining its jet

some

black hue

with a

ornament, and a neat


handkerchief fastened

glittering

ans walking about the streets of Halifax,

scarlet or blue

where they had arrived on a visit from

round the neck. Outcasts, as it were, in


own country, and sensible of their
position, they bear themselves with
becoming haughtiness towards the mob
of staring Europeans In the crowded
street; and, hastily purchasing their few
necessaries, they retreat, as they came,
to their hunting grounds in the interior.
The Micmac isgenerally well formed,
active, and capable of enduring great
abstinence and amount of cold. His
complexion is of the color of brick-dust.

westward,

in all the

the

native dignity oftheir

forefathers. Unlike those of their tribe

and clothed in
the castoff rags of white men, they appear in the showy costume of the tribe, in
residing round Halifax,

a dark blue or scarlet flannel coat, or-

namented with beads, porcupine's


quills, and moose-hair, and their moccasins adorned with similar devices.
Their squaws, generally walking
behind the men, have the head covered

MARY

R.

Indian

MARY
girl /

Nova Scotia: the


number of free negroes may be equal to
500; partofwhom came from the West
1

India
States,

from the United


and the residue were born in the

Islands, others

province.

settlement

was

laid out, a

few miles from Halifax, for these people,


and every facility afforded them, by the
provincial government, yet they are still
in a state

of miserable poverty; while

who

have settled on woodlands, under circumstances scarcely so


favourable, thrive with few exceptions.
Whether the wretchedness of these
Europeans,

negroes

may be

attributed to servitude

and degradation havingextinguished

in

them

R.

the spirit that endures present dif-

ficulties

and

an advanced age, falls irneck and shoulders.

is

of the darkest hazel, and the

white is more dingy than that of the European. The hands and feet of the Indian
are small, and often exquisitely formed.
This, in the case of the foot,

is

rather

freedom which
is given to it by the yielding moccasin;
and the features, though coarse, are ex-

strange, considering the

tremely expressive.

C HARDY

New World

Sporting Adventures in the

1855

MCKIE

A Negro youth

Water-colour, 8 V< x 8 inches

Slavery does not exist in

The eye

their

MCKIE

A Micmac

till

regularly over the

privations, in order to attain

in

Nova

ery

is

Scotia

the

Water-colour, b'Ax 5 inches

most happy

unfortunate negroes

which the
West Indies

state in
in

the

am certainly

future advantages; or to the conscious-

and America can

ness that they are an unimportant and


distmct race, in a country where they

of opinion, that, unless they are gradual-

feel that

they must ever remain a sep-

arate people; or, that they find

it

more

ly

prepared

will,

on

become

for

live;

but

personal liberty, they

obtaining

their

freedom,

objects of greater commiser-

now

are in a state of

congenial to their habits to serve others,

ation than they

either asdomesticservants, or labourers,

bondage; and the condition of the free


negroes in Nova Scotia will fully sub-

by which they make sure of the wants of


theday,certain
tude,

ably

it

is

that they prefer servi-

and generally
in this

live

stantiate this assertion.

more comfort-

condition, than they usually

do when workingon their own account.


do not, by this observation, mean to in-

culcate the revolting doctrine, that slav-

time Colonies

41

MCGREGOR
and Descriptive Sketches of the Mari-

Historical

1828

NOVA SCOTIA

C.WILLIAMS

With the exception of one locality, "The


Ovens," near Lunenburg, seventy miles
westfrom Halifax, where a considerable
quantity has been obtained in the sand of
the beach, formed by the action of the
waves upon the rocky cliffs, placer
washings and surface diggings have not

Washing gold

at the

"Ovens" near Lunenburg, Nova

Water-colour,

9%x

14 inches

This

name ["The Ovens"]

given to a gold

district

has been

embracing

a pen-

Scotia

tion,

ca.

I860

according to Mr. Poole,

fifteen

degrees to the south of west. There has as

been very little quartz mining in this


though gold-bearing veins have
been found, and from recent accounts it

insula on the western side of the harbor of

yet

Lunenburg, and comprises an area of a


mileanda half longand three-quarters of
a mile wide. Several small caves in the

district,

The official returns from 1861 to


,282 ounces of gold from
1 864, shew
the Ovens district, but none since that

which the Californian and Australian


digger is accustomed to look with suspi-

promontory facing the sea have,


from theirfancied resemblance toovens,
given its name to the district. The rocks
here exposed are referred to by Mr.
Campbell to the same anticlinal as those

cion, are here remarkably productive; an

of Tangier Harbor, and,

Scotia.

On

the other hand, the quartz veins,

on

proved remunerative

instance

is

in

Nova

upon record where one and

side of a

ike that district,

exhibit chiefly the slaty upper

members

The

strata are

halfton of quartz has produced seventy-

of the gold-bearing series.

two ounces

here nearly vertical, and have a direc-

of gold, valued at $1,296.

HtNDETAL
The Dominion of Canada
H. Y

appearsthatamill

about

42

be erected

date; of this the greater part, over


oz.,

was from

alluvial

washings

in

,000
1861

and 1862, since which time the


washings have been abandoned, though
it

is

to

said that preparations are being

work them during

made

the present year.

HUNT

The Cold Region of Nova Scotia

II

to

T. S.

1869

is

there.

1868

The magnificent splendourof the forests


of North America is peculiar to that vast
country. In Europe, in Asia, in Africa, and
South America, the primeval

even

in

trees,

how much soever their magnitude

NEW BRU^SWICK

THE LOYALIST PROVINCE

may arrest admiration, do not grow up

in

the promiscuous style

which

beech, oak, and numerous other

the great general character of the North

American woods. Many

varieties of the

pine intermingled with birch, maple,

MCCRtCOS

and Descriptive Sketches of the


Maritime Colonies of British America
828
Historical

JOSEPH BOUCHETTE
Mars

Hill,

New

Brunswick

ca.

1815

Water-colour, SVjx 12 inches

As Mars Hill, however,

is

source of the St. Croix. The early part of


the ascent is easy to the height of about

invested with a

peculiar degree of interest, from the cirits being the point fixed on
by the Britishcommissionersasthe commencement of the range of highlands,

half a mile,

cumstance of

beyond which

much more abrupt, and


almost

viewed from

to take a rather close survey of

in

it.

It

commanding,

is

about five and a half miles to the west of


the river St. John, about 100 miles above
Fredericton. The mountain is aboutthree
miles in length, its lower base four and a
quarter;

it

is

its

as

it

is

becomes

The
is

prospect

extensive and

the highest point

Immediately beneath

vicinity.

which the
composed, whose

stretches the vast forest of

adjacent country

is

undulatory swells, clothed with a brilliant green, resemble stupendous waves,


the more elevated spots rising from the

very narrow and divided by a

hollow near the centre;

its

crest

its

it

near the summit

perpendicular.

forming the boundary of the United


States, we will step a little out of our way

bosom

highest eleva-

above the level of the sea is about


2000 feet, and about 1 200 above the

of the others like towers

the ocean.

tion

BOUCHETTE

The British Dominions

in

[4i

North America

tribes,

branch luxuriantly over the banks of


lakes and rivers, extend in stately grandeur over the plains, and stretch proudly
up to the very summits of the mountains.

prevails in

1832

above

When

salmon make

the

their

NEW BRUNSWICK-THE

LOYALIST PROVINCE

appear-

ance in the Nashwak, fleets of canoes,


each containing a couple of Indians,
leave Fredericton to spear them by torchlighl. The fish, checked by the falls, are
collected

in

great

numbers

in

the pools

below. Nothing can be more exciting


than this scene the canoes hurled
about in all directions by the foaming
tide, the skill

forcing

them

displayed by the Indians

off

in

and fending
the rocks, or allowing them to

them up the

rapids,

plunge head-foremost down stream,


when they suddenly bring them to, and
transfix their fish. The eagerness of the
chase, the contrastof the flaming torches

with the black masses of the woods, and


the fine attitudes of the men, dashing at
the salmon with their long spears, form a
wild and most animating picture. The
spear, which is most destructive, is very

simple

in its

construction, and does not

lacerate or spoil the fish.

A spike of iron is
made of rock

fastened between two jaws

maple, into theend of a long light fir pole.


is stuck, the jaws open far

When the fish

to allow the spike to pierce and


break the vertebrae of the spine, and,

enough

closing round the fish at the

hold

it

same

time,

fast.

R.C.A. LEVINGE

Echoes From the Backwoods

1849

RICHARD GEORGE AUGUSTUS LEVINGE


Salmon

fishing

by torchlight

in

Water-colour, 9V2X 15 inches

44

New

Brunswick

ca.

1838

NEW BRUNSWICK-THE

[45

LOYALIST PROVINCE

ALEXANDER CA\ALIE MERCER

NEW BRUNSWICK - THE LOYALIST PROVINCE

Fredericton,

New

Brunswick from the road

to

St.

1840

)ohns

Water. colour, 9V4X 13 inches

The river St. John, at Fredericton,

is

about

a mile wide; the scenery in almost every

pointotview
as

in

isas beautiful

any part of America.

features

are

and luxuriant

Its

cultivated

moststriking

fields,

green

islands, a majestic river, winding almost


round the town; a back ground, rising
into wooded hilly ridges, and clumps of
primeval groves, remaining in detached

spots

among the

consumed by

houses have been

fire;

one burnt

and

row of barracks

but better

built in their place.

in

are

825
in

site

substantial

the progress

and handsome

steam boat only

of

a college,

of building; these will be executed

plies as yet

in a

One

style.

between

FrederictonandSt.John. Boatsof20tons
can go up the river from Fredericton to
the grand

a distance of

falls,

from the sea.

clearings.

The streets of Fredericton are wide,


and cross each other at right angles. Sir
Howard Douglas has lately had a public
promenadeopenedalongthebankofthe
river. The Province Building and the
Episcopal Church are but humble edifices. This town has frequently had its
buildings

residence for the Governor, on the


the former

230 miles

The timber trade has no doubt been


one,

if

not the principal, cause of the

rapid growth of

were

St.

John. Great gains

both by it and shipand although the merchants


and others immediately concerned in
these pursuits were nearly ruined afat first realized,

building;

Historical

and

MCGREGOR

Descriptive

Maritime Colonies of

1828

46

Sketches

British

of

America

the

terwards by the extent of their undertakings

and engagements;

yet,

it

must be

recollected, that each of those trades has

enabled

New

Brunswick to pay for her


and with the timber

foreign imports,

trade she has built

and

lands
if

it

St.

John, Fredericton,

Andrew. To the

St.

settler

on new

presented a ready resource; and

he only engaged

in

it

fora few winters

it

was wise to do so; as by the gains attending it, he was put in possession of the
means of stocking his farm and clothing
himself and family. The province,
therefore, gained great advantage
trade; and, although

it

is

by this

not less certain

it has been prosecuted to more than


double the extent of the demand for
timber, it would, notwithstanding, be

that

extreme

folly to

abandon

it

altogether.

QUEBEC

Quebec, l/ie citadel oi die St. Lawrence


and one of the oldest towns in Canada,
was the centre of many of the militar}'
and civil activities of the nineteenth-century colony. The British officers and their
families who were stationed there after

Deputy SurGeorge Heriot,

colony, lames Peachey,

veyor-General,

and

After the war, the French

quiet

period

rounded by a subjected French population. Up and down St. Louis Street the red
coats marched, as I. P. Cockburn records,

development of any part of the nineteenth-century


colony of Canada.
Heriot's Travels through the Canadas
provides extensive commentary on the
topography and the society, but perhaps the most remarkable topographical

often to the rousing accompaniment of a

descriptions

regimental band. The officers like Cock-

foremost

burn and Bainbrigge and their wives por-

grapher, loseph Bouchette,

trayed, the features of this fortified Euro-

France became the province of


Quebec formed a garrison society sur-

town

pean

transplanted

to

North

are those of Canada's


nineteenth<entury
topo-

Topographical

lished in both English

by

terminus of the

its

These

sophistication.

of the

Province ol Lower Canada, was pub-

same characteristics
were remarked upon by travellers, who
always went to Quebec and were struck
America.

whose book,

Description

and French.

Montreal derived its advantages from


its geographical position. It was a natural
St.

Lawrence shipping

By a unique combination of circumstances, we are well provided with both

route, and was also close to the end of the

visual and verbal statements of the every-

heavily defended in time of war at Ticon-

day environment of French Canada.

deroga, Chambly, and

Some of the artists held official appoint-

such men as Thomas Davies. who served


under General Amherst.

ments

in

the civil

government of the

Richelieu River route. This route was

l47l

Crown

Point by

English

was shattered by the Rebellion of

Deputy Post-Master General for British


North America, have contributed to the
most complete pictorial record of the

New

and

lived together with relative ease until the

1837and 1838. One of the most significant contributions of the

artists

of

this

was their reportage of this


rebellion. The fact that many of the officers (Bainbrigge and Levinge, for example) were personally involved lends a
peculiar quality of immediacy to the
views of the ruins of St. Eustache and St.
Denis and the trek of the 43rd Regiment
across the snows of eastern Canada. Yet
another aspect of the record

is

the reac-

tion of lane Ellice at being

captured by a
"groupofthemost 'Robespierre' looking

ruffians."

Lord Durham's remarkable report


analyzed the situation and recommended drastic changes to alleviate
what he saw as a conflict between the
English and French cultures. However,
his

solution

was doomed

to

failure

becauseofhis insensitivityto thecharacterofthe province and


ing population.

its

French-speak-

THE CITADEL OF THE

ST.

LAWRENCE

HENRY FRANCIS

The quarantine

AINSLIE

station at

Water-colour, 9 x

We

Crosse

Isle, St.

Lawrence River

1838

2 V2 inches

rounded with palisadoes and a guard of

the pilot says

a beautiful rocky

soldiers.

days.

covered with groves of beech,


birch, ash, and fir-trees. There are several
vessels lying at anchor close to the shore;
one bears the melancholy symbol of

There

August 12

terday evening.

reached Cros
It

is

Isle

yes-

island,

disease, the yellow flag; she

is

a pas-

is

also a temporary fort at

distance from the hospital, containing a


garrison of soldiers,

who are there

fectiouscomplaintappearson board, the


yellow flag is hoisted, and the invalids

unfortunate emigrants

conveyed

to

the cholera

building, that has

It is

respects quite absurd,

and in
and are

productive of

many

severe evils to the

or

hospital

been erected

on a rising bank above the shore.

en-

sur-

we

are

all in

good

health,

having sailed from an infected

port,

be detained on the quarantine


ground, but not allowed to land
shall

are considered as very defective,

some

wooden

to

yet,

be detained three

shall

force the quarantine rules. These rules

and has the smallpox and


measles among her crew. When any in-

senger-ship,

some

we

Though we

We

expect to reach the quarantine


ground (Cros Isle) this evening, where

C p. TRAILL
The Backwoods of Canada

48

1836

These regulations positively forbid the


captain and the pi lot to allow any person,
whether of the crew or passengers, to
quit the vessel until they shall have
passed examination at the quarantine
ground, under the risk of incurring a
severe penalty.

THE CITADf 1 OF THE ST

SEVERUSSTRETTON

Quebec and

the

Water-colour,

When viewed trom Point Levi, on the opposite coast of the river,
variety of objects

is

an

interesting

exhibited, by

massy

rocks, interspersed with shrubbery, by

Cape Diamond, boldly

rising

water, by the houses along

its

from the

base, con-

overhanging cliffs, by a
confused cluster of buildings overtoptrasted with the

Quebec

mouth

8x13

oi the St. Charles River

spot in

ties

to

all

admirers ofthe beau-

of nature affording a rich treat.

suppose our friends

to

is

good plan

ascend to the highest


the neighbourhood; from such a

is

Quebec should

so dispose of their time

as to be enabled to
jects in a

this;

American

several ob-

given period. The following

will

but

embrace

it

to

be observed that our

friends

unfortunately

is

map

conver-

and any natural feature of the scenery


worthy of remark to accompany you.
This gives the spectator a general knowledgeofthe locality ofthe neighborhood,
and will render more clear his future

visit

July lb, 181f

There stands QUEBEC, formerly the seat of


French empire in the west
purchased for England by the blood of
the heroic wolfe, shed in the decisive
the

Abraham. A commodious harbor, which can afford a safe


battle of the Plains of

anchorage for several fleets a magnificent river whose banks are secured by
steep cliffs a position on a lofty rock,

which bids defiance


lence,

together

to external

with

vio-

extraordinar>'

beauty of scenery, are some of the natural

advantages which distinguish the City

The River St. Lawrence,


which flows majestically before the
town, is one of the greatest, most noble
and beautiful of rivers; and at the same

of QUEBEC.

time, the furthest navigable for vessels of


a large size of

any

in

the universe.

rambles.

allow them to accomplish

is

as a

sant with the site of the towns, villages,

desirable that strangers arriving in

remarks

lies

before you; have a person that


1807

at

to

place the whole country


Canadas

We

have arrived

Quebec preparing to take theirfirst view.


It

irom Point Levis, Lower Canada

inches

ing views, certainly not equalled in the

an island.

Travels Through the

as the last "lion" in their tour,

Canadas, and

It

AWRf \CE

and generally embark in the steamboat


from Montreal, remain twenty-four
hours, and then return, without seeing
any thing except a cursory view of the
cit>': whereas Quebec and the environs
abound in the most romantic andcharm-

pingeach other up the side ofthe hill, and


by the fortifications which crown the
summit. The Saint Lawrence flowing on
one side, and the Saint Charles on the
other, give to this spot the appearance of

C HERIOT

A.
II

COCKBURN]

Quebec and Its

HAWKINS

Hawkins's Picture of Quebec; with Historical


Environs

49

1831

Recollections

1834

The

street leading to the

THECITADELOFTHEST lAWRENCE

Upper Town,

called Mountain-street, winds

a ser-

in

pentine direction from the market-place,

up the hill; passes through Prescot-gate,


and terminates near the French cathedral, within a short distance ot the Upper
Town market-place. In its present winding form, it Is very steep, and requires
strength to ascend it. The little Canadian
horses have a laborious task to drag up
the heavy loads which their masters impose upon them. The carts used in
Quebec are light, and usually drawn by
one horse; their loads are not excessive,
when drawing upon even ground; but
the carters seldom make any allowance
up Mountain-street, though half the ordinary load is more than their horse can
manage; and they are obliged to make
frequent stoppages on their way up.
For a pedestrian,

it

is

very fatiguing,

if

his business requires a frequent inter-

course between the upper and lower


towns; otherwise, conceive that two or
1

threeexcursions up

this hill in the

course

of a day are extremely conducive to


health,

and

l)elieve the benefit of them

generally felt by the inhabitants. This

is

hill

more than half way, the upsuppose, being thought too


steepfor that purpose; ifthat isthecase,
is

not paved

per part,

do

not,

however, see the necessity of

keeping the foot-paths and the road

in

such a rugged state: Mountain-street


requiresmore attention than any other in

Quebec,

yet

winter time

it
it

the quantity of

cumulate

in

is

neglected the most.

is

extremely dangerous;

snow and

large

ice,

masses,

In

which acrenders

it

absolutely necessary for the inhabitants


to provide

shod with
they

call

themselves with outer shoes


iron spikes or creepers.

goloshoes,

frequently used
year,
in

in

the

and

fall

are

These
most

or spring of the

when itgenerally freezes and thaws

succession for two or three weeks.

After the

snow

ground, and

it

is well settled on the


becomes dry walking,

make

use of Shetland hose and list


which are worn over their boots
and shoes, and have the effect of keeping
the feet both warm and dry, while they
prevent them slipping about.
they

shoes,

LAMBERT

Travels Through

Canada and the United

Slates

1814

[50

TMECir^DEI OF nif ST l-VWREVCE

^W'

"

ii

JAMES HUNTER

bird's eye view of the Lower Town, Quebec from the Bishop's Palace
showing also the Chateau St. Louis and the Citadel
1779

Water-colour.

[51

14x21 inches

The chateau, wherein


resides,

is

the

a plain building of

stone, situated in an

open

THE

CI

tADEL OF THE

SI.

LAWRENCE

governor

with the public offices, and

common

ments

place, the

in

the

in itare

new

small and

part,

ill

all

the apart-

contrived; but

which stands

in front

in which a
few small guns are planted, command-

the rock, with embrasures,

ing a part of the lower town. Every eve-

of

houses round which form three sides of

the other, facing the square, they are

ning during summer,

an oblong square.

consistsof two parts.

spacious and tolerably well finished,

is

The old and the new are separated from


each other by a spacious court. The
formerstandsjustonthevergeof an inaccessible part of the rock; behind it, on the

but none of them can be called elegant.

outside, there

It

a long gallery, from

is

whence, if a pebble were let drop,


would fall at least sixty feet perpendicit

ularly. This old part

is

chiefly taken

up

This part
family.

is

inhabited by the governor's

The chateau

is

built

without any

when

the weather

of the regiments of the garri-

son parades

in

the

open place before the

chateau, and the band plays for an hour


or two, at which time the place becomes

numbers of the most genteel


people of the town, and has a very gay
appearence.

In the garden adjoining to it


merely a parapet wall along the edge of

Travels Through the States of North America

the

represented.
is

one

new part havingeven a uniform front.


is not a place of strength, as commonly

regularity of design, neither the old nor

It

fine,

the resort of

WELD

the Provinces oi

Upper and Lower Canada

and
1

799

S^^^^^^
;fc^

..^-

Sr^^^fe
^.
lAMES PATTISON

COCKBURN

The streets of Quebec are,


in
consequence of its situation, irregular
and uneven, many of them are narrow,
and but very few are paved. The houses
are builtof stone, are of unequal heights,

and covered,

in

general, with roofs of

boards; the roughness of the materials of

-^

"x

<;.

/*~7

The Chateau St. Louis from the gardens


and a bird's eye view of Lower Town,
Quebec, Lower Canada
|une29, 1831

Pencil drawing, 6 x 9V2 inches

which they

suggested the expediency of covering

are constructed, gives them a

rugged aspect, and the accommodations

up

are fitted

in

stile

equally plain and

The frequent accidents


which have happened, and theextensive
damage which the town has repeatedly
void of

taste.

sustained

from

conflagrations,

[52

have

the public buildings,

and many of the

dwelling-houses with

tin,

or painted

sheet-iron.

C.

HERIOT

Travels Through the

Canadas

807

TMFCITADFl OF THE

am

to-morrow; Mrs Melhave the honours of it, but as


she is with child, she does not dance.
This circumstance has produc'd a disI

to give a ball

moth

is

to

pute nota

littletlattering to

my vanity: the

making interest to dance with


me; what a happy exchange have
made! What man of common sense
ladies are

would
in

LAWRENCE

have

rival

beauties contend for

Canada? This important point

not yet settled the etiquette here


;

me,

difficult to adjust; as to

ing to

stay to lx> overlook'd in England,

who can
him

ST.

do

in the

consultation;

destin'd to the longest

is

is

rather

have noth-

my hand is
we

pedigree;

stand prodigiously on our nobless.

Four o'clock

which two French lawere near drawing their husbands


intoa duel, the point of honour is yielded
by both to Miss Montague; each insisting
only that
should not dance with the
other; for my part, submit with a good
grace, as you will suppose.
After a dispute in

dies

GEORGE HERIOT
A dance

in

the Chateau

Si.

Quebec, Lower Canada


Water-colour,

9% X

Louis,

1801

14Vjinche^

Saturday morning
I

never passed a more agreeable eve-

ball.

we have our amusements here,

ture

ning;

as-

young fellows, and


handsome women, all well dress'd and
in humour with themselves, and with
each other: my lovely Emily like Venus

sure you: a set of fine

state of rest

ungraceful;

is

all

na-

most beautiful in motion; trees agitated by the wind, a ship under sail, a
horse in the course, a fine woman dancing: neverany human being had such an
is

aversion to

still life

as

have.

am

amongst the Graces, only multiplied to


aboutsixteen. Nothing is, in my opinion,

going back to Melmoth's for a


month; don't be alarm'd, Lucy! see all

so favourable to the display of beauty as a

her perfections, but

153

see

them with

the

cold eye of admiration only; a woman


engaged loses all her attractions as a
woman; there is no love without a ray of

hope:

my

only ambition

want to be
passion. With what

friend;

is

to

be her

the confidant of her


spirit

such a mind as

hers must love!


FRANCES BROOKE

The History of Emily Montague

1769

THE CITADEL OF THE

It

requires about five thousand soldiers to

man the works at Quetec completely. A


large garrison

abundance

is

always kept

in

it,

and

of stores of every descrip-

b>T

LAWRENCE

The troops are lodged partly in barand partly in blockhouses near


Cape Diamond, which is the most
elevated part of the point, and is

reckoned to be upwards of one thousand


above the level of the river.

tion.

racks,

feet
I

WEID

the Provinces of

54

Nonh America ar)d


Upper and Lower Canada 1 799

Travels Through the Stales ol

THE

CiTADELOMHE

ST.

LAWRENCE

The court-house on
Lou is Street

the north side ol

St.

modern stone structure, the roof of which is covered with


tin; its length is one hundred and thirtysix feet,

ing

is

a large

and breadth

forty-four, present-

handsome

regular

front,

approached by a fl ight of steps leadi ng to


an arched entrance, from whence a vestibule on each side communicates to
every part of the building. The ground
floor apartments are disposed for hold-

ing the quarter sessions,

and other

infer-

ior courts, offices of clerks of the dif-

ferent courtsof law, &c. &c.

Above stairs

there isaspaciouschamber, in which the

Common

Bench and

courts of King's

Pleas, the Court of Appeals,

and the

Admiralty Court are held, with separate

and other
and a room for the occasional convening of militia courtsoffices for the high sheriffs

magistrates,

martial. In the

and

same building

offices of the

is

the hall

corporation of the

Trinity-house of Quebec, established by

an actof the Provincial Parliament in the


45th year of George the 3d. The embellishments of thisedifice, both interior

and external, are in a style of simplicity


and neatness; the arrangements for
public
business
methodical
and
judicious; the whole may Ise considered
a great ornament to the city, and does
honour to the liberality of the province,
thus to provide for the easy and expeditious administration of justice.

It

oc-

upon which stood


an old monastery, church, and garden of
cupies part of the

site

the Recollets, destroyed by

year

796:

tensive

it

was

at

one time

establishment,

fire

in

the

a very ex-

covering

the

whole space between the parade. Rue


des Jardins, de St. Louis, and de Ste.
Anne; the order is now extinct in
Canada.
I-

BOUCHEnE
Topographical Description ol the Province o(

Lower Canada

t8t5

JAMES PATTISON

J
[55

COCKBURN

British troops drilling

the Court House,

St.

opposite
Louis Street,

Quebec, Lower Canada


Water-colour,

II

'Ax

1830

15% inches

THECITADELOf THE

ST.

LAWRENCE

Immediately through palace-Cate, turn-

kept there.

and In front of the


Ordnance buildings and storehouses,
oncestoodanedifice of great extent, surrounded by a spacious garden looking
towards the River St. Charles, and as to its
interior decorations, far more splendid
than even the Castle of St. Lewis. It was

present time appear advantageous, but

ing towards the

left,

the Palace of the Intendant, so called,

Its

the aspect of the River

and the name

and of
which leads
to it, are derived from the same origin.
The Intendant's Palace was described

tants,

of the Gate,

the well proportioned street

by La Potherie,
eighty

to/'ses,

in

feet, of buildings,
tle

town

698, as consisting of

hundred and eighty


it appeared a litThe King's stores were

or four

in Itself.

so that

the ordeal of

fire,

and was afterwards

rebuilt with greater attention to

and

embellishment.

In

comfort

September,

1712, M. BECON arrived as Intendant,


with a splendid equipage, rich furniture,

ful.

called, Le Palais, by the old inhabi-

Charles was

in those days. The propneighborhood belonged to the


Government, or to the lesuits large
meadows and flowery parterres adorned
the banks of the rivers, and reached the
base of the rock; and as late as the time of

tablishment of the Royal Government

still

St.

at the

widely different

CHARLEVOIX,

New France. A small district adjoining is

does not

erty in the

because the sittings of the Sovereign


Council were held there, after the esin

situation

city

is

in

720, that quarter of the

spoken of as being the most beauti-

The entrance was

into

court,

plate

and apparel

befitting his rank.

was accompanied by
lady

married,

lately

his wife, a

He

young

whose valuable

jewels were the general admiration.

was found impossible

to

fire,

which

it

extinguish, broke out in the night of the


5th January,

71 3;

and burned so

Indendant and

rapid-

through a large gateway, the ruins of

ly,

which,

escaped in their robes de


chambre. Jhe latter was obliged to break
the panes of glass in her apartment,
before she had power to breathe, so as to
attempt her escape through the smoke
with which the passages were filled. Two

in St.

Valler Street,

still

remain.

The buildings formed nearly a squarein front of the river were spacious gardens, and on the sides the King's store
houses. Beyond the Palace, towards the
west, were the pleasing grounds of the
lesuits, and of the General Hospital.
This building, like most of the public
establishments of QLiEBEC, went through

56

that the

his lady

with

difficulty

young French women, who attended

Madame

the

becon, perished

in the

flames

Intendant's valet anxious to save

THECITADEIOFTHEST, lAWKfvJCE

GEORGE HERIOT

The ruinb ol the Intendanl', Palace rrom Gram's VVharl


with the walled town beyond, Quebec, Lower Canada

ca.

1800

Water-colour, 4'U x 18 inches

some

of his master's clothes, ventured

imprudently

within

the

burning

chamlxTS, and was consumed by the


flames

his secretary, desirous of rescu-

ingsome valuables, passed several times


through the gardens towards the river

in

front of the house,

without shoes, and

was frozen. He died

in

the Hotel Dieu, a

few days afterwards. The

loss of the In-

lendant was stated

at

crowns: his lady

her jewels and rich

lost

forty

thousand

however, were the


resources of m. becon, that he is said to
have lived with as much state inthe Bish-

dresses.

Such,

op's Palace, where he established himself,

as he had maintained before the

fire.

On this occasion, the papers and records


of the Treasury

were

lost,

as well as the

and other valuable documents belonging tothe king of


FRANCE The PALACE was afterwards

and the
its
1

king's expense.

The following

is

description, given by charlevolx, in

720, a few years afterwards; "The

tendant's house

is

In-

called the Palace,

becausethe Superior Council assembles


in

it.

This

is

which you ascend by a double flight of


The garden front which faces the
littleriver, which isverv nearly ona level
with it, IS much more agreeable than that
by which you enter. The King's magazines face the court on the right side, and
behind that is the prison. The gate by
which you enter is hid by the mountain
on which the Upper Town stands, and
which on this side affords no prospect,

speak more prop-

come

first

of

all

into

the country."

in 1759. In 1775, it was occupied by a detachment of the American


invading army, and destroyed by the fire

conquest

of the Garrison.

The only remains

at

present are a private house, the gateway

alluded to above, and several stores

belonging to Government, formed by


repairing
ings.

name

some

of the old French build-

The whole

is

of the King's

now known

by the

Woodyard.

extremely

a steep rock,

was

disagreeable to the sight.

rebuilt in a splendid style

worse before the fire, which reduced


some years ago this whole Palace to
ashes; it having at that time no outer

57

road, you

The Intendant's Palace was neglected

to

this street, or to

as a place of official residence after the

registers of the Council,

by m. becon

along

erly, this

two ex-

stairs.

except that of

and the buildings then facing the


which was very narrow. As you go

some feet; and

a large pavilion, the

tremities of which project

street

court,

It

still

A HAWKINS

Hawkins's Picture of Quebec: with Historical


Recollections

1834

THE CITADEL OF THE

ST.

LAWRENCE

-I

f^M^'

The PARLIAMENT House ... on the site ol


the BISHOP'S PALACE. The centre and
north-western wing are only completed,
so that the whole building, including the
old part,

sumed

now

for the first

time has as-

the figure intended at the original

Chapel stood upon the site of the central


part of the new parliament House, the

but useful and commodious with in, rears


its

modest front by the

faqade of

less

its

side of the massive

unpretending, but more

durable successor; affording a moral

son of the

rise

empires, of

and decay

man

tability of all

himself,

sublunary

les-

of buildings, of

and of the mu-

It has been stated that the sittings of the


PROVINCIAL ASSEMBLY were held in the

BISHOPS Chapel

remembered,

mons

until

that the

1834.

It

will

be

HOUSE OF com-

in ENGLAND holds its sittings in


what was once the small Chapel of ST
STEPHEN. WESTMINSTER. The BISHOPS

been

taken to meet the convenience of the

Four massive cut

PARLIAMENT HOUSE was designed by Mr.


Berlinguet, the wings by Mr. Baillarge.

pillars

support a pedi-

Arms

of Great Britain."

to expedite the business

The centre of the new

The whole was built by Mr. Fortier,


Master Mason; and the sums voted by the
Legislature to defray the expense amount

Within the facade is the new House of


Assembly,
spacious
a
Chamber,

to

seventy-nine feet long by forty-six broad,

elapse, ere the liberality of the Legisla-

and twenty-eight feet high from floor to


ceiling. The interior is not yet finished,
but it will, no doubt, be worthy of the
building and Province. From the dome
there is a splendid view of the picturesque scenery around, which is gained
by ascending a staircase
tor

affairs.

ventilated. Every care has, in truth,

Members, and

"Imperial

ace of the BISHOPS, neglected without,

tt

of the Province.

is imposing from its


and loftiness, and from the
dome and spire with which it is crowned.

new parts of this building, while

by contrast the great ad vance of the Province in resources and population, forms
an interesting link between its ancient
and modern history. The venerable Pal-

H'

strength

ment, with in which will be contained the

speaks

tiU

faqade of which

foundation. The union of the old and the


it

until the specta-

reaches a smal gal lery on the outside,


I

16,000.
It

is

to

be hoped

ture shall

that not long time will

have provided for the compleNEW PARLIAMENT HOUSE

tion of the

But

in

order that the buildingsshould be

seen to advantage,

row

it is

of houses,

and encircling the dome, at the base of


the lantern. The whole building is solid
and substantial, being of cut stone. The

When

remaining apartments are

the finest buildings in

all for

the use

The Wardrobe and


and in due proportion:
the passages and staircase wide and well

Legislature,

58

on

A.

fair

compensation.

these improvements are made,

the PARLIAMENT

of the ASSEMBLY.

Library are large

highly necessary

which would
seem to have intruded themselves
between Freemason's Hall and the Seminary, should be removedby an Actofthe
that the

HOUSE

will

appear one of

north America.

HAWKINS

Hawkins'i Picture of Quebec: with Historical


Recollections

834

THE ClIADtl Of THE SI LAWRENCE

y4
->^
'ir?

Ill
'I'jiiiiiiiii'iij,

i^i-

"^fc^lir^""''"--^
ANONYMOUS

The English Cathedral and Place d'Armes,


Quebec, Lower Canada
Winter 1 835

The House of Assembly and the

(WPOSITE

Point Levis shore from the ramparts,

MILLICENT

MARY CHAPLIN

Water-colour,

It
has been stated that the Convent,
Church and Garden of the RECOLLET
Fathers occupied the site in the front of

the CASTLE of

ST.

URSULINE Convent
tained within

St.

LEWIS, as far as
in

the rear,

Lewis,

St.

the

and con-

Anne and

Garden Streets. After the burning of the


Church and Convent in 796, the buildings were razed to the foundation, on the
extinction of the order, and the ground
1

appropriated as a

site for

the new ENGLISH

CATHEDRAL. The COURT HOUSE

on

is

also

The area in
the centre of the Place d'Armes was not
alwaysso large. Until a fewyearsagothe
foundationsof the Recollet Church were
to be traced upon the rocky surface, several yards in advance of the present
boundary on the western side. On
levellingthese foundations, and the rock
on which they stood, two plates were
found.
In the month of July, 1834, on
sinkingoneof the posts which surround
the area of the Place d'Armes some
built

Water-.

part of the ground.

11 x 14'/2

Quebec, Lower Canada

1842

inches

human bones were discovered very near

and books

the surface. As, from their situation, they

private present from King

must have been outside the Convent, it


may be fairly supposed that they were the
remains of one of the Aborigines, buried

A good peal of eight bells, of


which the tenorbell isabout 16cwt.,was
procured some few years ago, by the
subscriptions of the congregation. The
Church has an excellentorgan and a regular cathedral choir, but no Dean and

coming of the French.


The English Cathedral was built by the
bounty of Government, upon the representations of the first Bishop of Quebec,
and consecrated in 804. It is an edifice
of regular architecture and very respectthere before the

for divine

service,

Chapter.

Church

It

serves also as the Parish

such an edifice shall be

until

erected, with a reservation in favorof the

in a

spacious

Episcopal rights. Near the altar

iron rails

gant font of white marble.

area,

exterior length

is

35

the height of the spire

feet, its

trees.

Its

breadth 73;

above the ground,

152; from the floor to the centre of the

arch with in, 41 .The

communion plate of

thisChurch isvery magnificent, and persons in London went to see it while making in the

hands of Rundell and Bridge.

This plate, together with the altar cloth,

Third.

handsomely enclosed by
and gates, and planted with

able appearance, standing

was

George the

is

an ele-

Two new galleries have been

recently

the Cathedral,

thrown

constructed

in

back on each side of the organ,

for the

accommodation,

of

respectively,

the

and female
National Schools the front of each is

children attending the male

a lotted to the
I

orphans of the Asylums,

in

their distinctive dresses.


A HAWKINS

hangings of the desk and pulpit, which

Hawkins's Picture of Quebec: with Historical

are of crimson velvet and cloth of gold.

Recollectioni

54

1834

THE CITADEL OF THE

The Roman Catholic Church of the


CONGREGATION standson the hill leading
from the Esplanade
is

to St. John's-Gate.

its

interior.

Its

spire

is

seen

immediately above the ramparts.


Theextentolthe ramparts towards the
land side, from the south-west angle of
the Citadel to the

Charles,
to

is

cliff

above the River St.

stated by Colonel Bouchette

be eighteen hundred and thirty-seven

yards. Within this rampart

is

LAWRENCE

about three miles. The average diamis about fifteen hundred yards.

eter

may

nade, between st lewis and ST. iohn'SIt


is a level space covered with

two hundred and seventy-three


yards long, and of irregular breadth.
Here are mounted the several guards on
duty at the Citadel and other public
buildings, each forenoon, except Sunday, at eleven o'clock; and occasional

are at present chiefly in use, are equally

dangerous in catching fire, though


perhaps not so likely to communicate it

and

wall of hewn stone, constructed

lofty

with elegance as well as with regard to


durability.

owing

to

castellated appearance,

Its

round

ditches, embrasures,

its

towers, battlementsand gates, add


to

its

much

grand and imposing effect from

without.
A HAWKINS

Hawkins's Picture of Quebec: with Historical

1834

Recollectiorts

of the City Militia

The

here.

is

also annually held

circuit of the fortifications

which enclose the UPPER town is two


miles and three quarters: the total circumference outside the ditches and
space reserved by government, on which
no houses can be built on the west side.

todistant parts of the town.

chimney is
goes upon

Quebec

are, with

few ex-

one
and the other

sufficiently clean;

the roof,

remains below: a similar


in

roofs

with a bundle of twigs, or furze, tied to a


rope, which they pull up and down till

man
The houses

On the

two or three ladders are


placed near the garret windows, for the
purpose of assisting the chimneysweepers to get on the roof, and clean the
chimneys. Boys do not go up as in
England, but two men perform the work

of the houses,

the

grass,

parades of the garrison take place, particularly on the KINGS birthday. The muster

covering of houses

be

Generally speaking, the city

the espla-

CATE.

hibit, in future, the

with them; but the boarded roofs which

said to be entirely surrounded by a strong

It

not of ancient construction, and per-

fectly plain in

is

ST.

mode

is

prac-

tised in Scotland.

ceptions, built of stone; the roofs of the


better sort are generally

covered with

sheetsof iron,ortin, and those of an inferior

description with clap-boards. Shin-

gles have

I.LAMBERT
Travels Through

North America

Canada and
1814

the United States of

been prohibited; though many

old buildings have them. In case of

fire,

the burning shingles, scattered about by


the wind, spread the destructive flames
a great extent; it was the danger
apprehended on this account, that
caused the pro\incial parliament to proto

JAMES PATTISON

COCKBURN

The Esplanade from the ramparts showing


D'Auleuil Street and the Roman
Catholic Church of the Congregation,
lune 27, 1831
Quebec, Lower Canada

5%x 9

Pencil drawing,

inches

Novices and Postulantes. The whole

penses of the establishment, and the

RECOLLET Convent, that this extensive es-

appearance, both external and

deficiency

tablishment situate on the River St.


Charles, about a mile from the walls, and
near the spot where IACQUES cartier first

of this Hospital

It

has been stated

winteredin

in

the account of the

New France owes its foun-

dation to Monseigneur de Saint Vallier,

second Bishop of Quebec,

who

bought

while

is

and pleasing;
arrangement and

regular

general

the

economy

are highly creditable to the

institution.

is two hundred and


long its form nearly

front

Its

twenty-eight feet
square. The

main building

feet

Dame des Anges, and procured for them

range of one hundred and

a site opposite the Fort of

which

at

present stands

St.

Lewis, on
English

the

Cathedral. The Bishop expended a very


large

sum

in

those days, one hundred

is

thirty-three

fifty

thirty feet

long

tal,

for the

arate

use of the indigent sick.

house

Nunnery, governed by
ing forty-five

is at

present a

a Superior, hav-

professed

Nuns, a few

A.

HAWKINS

834

A sep-

appropriated to the recep-

insane under the charge oftheUrsulines

The general hospital

general fund of the Institution.

Recollections

the care of incidental maladies.

are distinguished forthe

ufacture of

The Chapel is very neat, and has a


gallery communicating with the Hospi-

er,

manChurch ornaments, and for


the skill in gilding. The produce of the
sale of these works becomes part of the

The Nuns

Hawkins's Picture of Quebec: with Historical

feet in breadth.

thousand crowns, on the buildings,


which were intended for a general hospital for invalids, and as an asylum for
persons permanently afflicted with
disease. The hotel dieu was instituted for
.

occasionally supplied by

is

grants from the Provincial Parliament.

deep; but on the south-west side, a

the property of the RECOLLETS at Notre

has

internal,

is

tion of the insane: the Province,

howev-

on

a larger

requires an establishment

scale for these unfortunates. At ThreeRivers there

is

an establishment

for the

COCKBURN

of the Convent.

IAMBS PATTISON

The means of the general hospital,


from its unrestricted character, have
been found inadequate to defray the ex-

The General Hospital, Quebec,


1831
Lower Canada

60

Pencil drawing,

4%x 8'A inches

THE CITADEL OF THE ST LAWRENCE

Cy

i^-Jh-t
^'i.

f^'itfe^

m"^"

\ffM^\^:,
-^ ^.m

t^-^ ii-^t_

[bi

I-

-*

>

'

n>

THE CITADEL OF THE ST LAWRENCE

The market-place

Quebec

presents in

rough buffalo coats and

them

fur

is frozen fish, flesh, and fowl of all


heaped about on the ground and in
the sleighs, which are now much raised
above it. They make streets of sleighs by

a slope,

turning the horses face to face, dovetail-

and be
wares as

and it is curious to stand outside the


crowd, and look on; the sleighs are so

so they are quite out of the way; and the

soon as the citizens come forth to cater


wants of their households.
The horses are never unyoked; and there
they stand for hours amongst the snow,
their shaggy hair frozen white, and icicles hanging at their poor patient noses.
The habitants are of very picturesque

low, they are completely hidden; all you


can see being alternate stripes of horses
and human beings; the former standing

at

winter a curious and busy scene. The

French Canadians
tances very early

come from
in

great dis-

the morning, with

their sleighs full of vegetables, poultry,


fish,

&c., to take up their position,

ready to begin the sale of their


for the daily

.V

figures, in their

caps most wearing red sashes; the


women have comfortable, homespunlooking garments, and

many wear

bonnets. The market-place

is

on

the latter in constant motion, push-

still,

them about

ing

people

and

the length of their necks

move upand down regular lanes,

find

all

the delicacies of the season

displayed to the right and


see frozen pigs set

upon

left.

There you

their legs, look-

tions,

forno visible object. Join the multi-

ing very ugly and uncomfortable; and


hereare great coarse sturgeons, standing

tude,

and you

on

ing,

and turning and bending

sorts,

find that

direc-

in all

what

interests

their heads,

and leaning against the

.''

^ 4.

/I:

^^'"^^^
ri
^''"^^''i^i^^^Mffg^^y

ww^

i^'^

\j^^

The
the

Jesuits'

Convent, which reverted to

Crown some

years since,

cupied by a regiment of

is

now

infantry,

oc-

and

makes an excellent and capacious barrack. What was the fathers' pleasure-garden in olden times is now the parade

the sacred devices upon them. On the


opposite side of the market-place is the

dral occupies, together with

and ungraceful building of the


Catholic Cathedral, where attended one day at the performance of

the Ursuline

large

Roman

seven acresof ground

its

garden,

the upper town,

in

Convent possesses

as

much

more, and the Hotel Dieu even as much


as twelve; so that, what with the citadel,

high mass, but

was glad to make my esopen air, such a


densecrowd was there inevery partof it.

convents, churches, barrack, and open

cape again

squares, the population of the upper

As

pared with

retain-

Montreal, the Catholic clergy possess an extensive property in Quebec.

ing the strong iron-studded gates, with

The seminary which adjoins the Cathe-

ground.

In

other respects

have undergone very


cept with regard to

its

little

it

appears

change

to

(ex-

occupants), being

surmounted by the old

spire,

and

into the

in

62

town

E.

is

reduced
its

to a

mere cipher com-

extent.

COKE

Subaltern 's Furlough

1833

IHECITADElOFTMf

ST,

LAWRENCE

side of the sleigh as stark as sticks. The


vendor seized two big haddocks by the
tails, and held them out to tempt us; tapping their frozen heads together, with a

else a boy, whocarries

it on his head, beThe scene is amusing

up

ing in attendance.

and

confess,

should be
every morn-

much from being


frozen; and fish are in noway the worse
for
when they come to table. Some

clinking sound, like stones. Vegetables

ing at nine o'clock without regard to the

fresh-water species will actually return

are at this season very dear: a head of

state of the

cabbage, 4d., currency; a small stick of

Meat is said to lose its flavour by having been frozen; especially if thawed, as

celery, 4d.; a tiny bit of horse-radish. Is.

Turkeys are reckoned dear


5s.

and

price being 2s., 3s.,


pair.

It

just

now;

at

ones their usual


and 4s.; fowls, 2s. a-

6s. for large

is

the

custom

for ladies to

go

to

make their own purchases; a

market, and

maid, with a large basket on her arm, or

lively;

but,

sorry to be obliged to see

is

it

atmosphere.

It

is

not housed before the frost sets

in.

it

to

the ordinary custom, in water.

it

Fowls do not suffer so

life

again,

if

put into water after being

frozen.

bet-

hang it up in the warm kitchen, and


let it thaw gradually. Potatoes and

terto
to

apples are almost spoilt by being frozen;

and oranges, which,

come from

of course,

only

abroad, completely wither

W.

H, C,

KINGSTON

Western Wanderings

1856

lAMES PATTISON

COCKBURN
The Market and
the)esuit

Barracks with
the Catholic

Cathedral
in view,

Quebec,
Lower Canada
1830
Water-colour,
3% X S'/j inches

lAMES PATTISON

^-f'i^S^E^

COCKBURN

'

The Catholic
Cathedral of
Notre Dame
and the Market,

Quebec,
Lower Canada
)uly25, 1830
Water-colour,
lO'Ax 14% inches

Having thus made the


tifications,

it

is

circuit of the for-

necessary

different barracks

to notice the

and military buildings

accommodation of the troops


composing the garrison. Besides those

for the

containedwithintheCiTADEL, and the Artillery

barracks, the spacious building in

the market-place, formerly the College


of the IE5UIT5, has long

been occupied by

the KING'S troops, under the

name

iESUiTS Barracks. This edifice

is

of the

of stone,

and measures two


hundred and twenty-four feet by two
three stories high,

is

considerable

area,

gained into
buildings

On theother side

is

sol-

an arch leading

Regiment, the 79th, or CAMERON HIGH-

To the left
of the greatentranceisa large dooropeningintoa hall. Here is the room set apart
to the barrack yard

for the

and

offices.

Garrison library, the property of

the military, containing a

number

of

valuable books and maps. The barrack


yard is enclosed by a wall two hundred
yards long,

in St.

Ann

street, in

which

is

LANDERS. This

is

a picturesque

and highly

pearance
the

in the field,

numerous

their

summer

military ap-

very attractive to

strangers

who conclude

estingcapitalofLOWERCANADA.The79th
Regiment is under the

stone building standing nearly opposite

Recollections

63 1

few which

tour by a visit to the inter-

Through

the

Gaul"; and makes

of old

from the market-place, op-

the barrack-gate

one of

wear the "garb

tenant Colonel

posite to the French Cathedral.

lESUiiS Bar-

racks are at present occupied as the


quarters of that highly distinguished

around which are occupied by the


diers.

Church. The

to the Scottish

and main-guard. This


was formerly the garden belonging to
the College. A little beyond the gate is
the barrack office, a neat and substantial

hundred, being in shap)e a parallelogram. The principal entrance into the


barracks

is

the

a lofty passage admittance

command of Lieu-

DUNCAN MACDOUCALL.

A HAWKINS
Hawkins's Picture of Quebec; with Historical

1834

THE CITADEL OF THE

'-'*

ST.

^*'

<m t

1.

tl

LAWRENCE

'-

.ti^

&

^ ^,A
n^j

IAME5 PATTISON COCKBURN


Ice cutting at the moulh of the St. Charles
Water-colour,

M'Ax

River,

Quebec, Lower Canada

1831

igV^inches

[b4

THECITADELOFTHEST IAVVRE\CE

We are

returned, my Lord, irom having


seen an object as beautiful and magnificent in itself, as pleasing from the idea it

amongst them, still venture


themselves over in parties of pleasure;
though greatly alarmed at their return, if a
the timid

gives of renewing once

more our intercourse with Europe.


Before saw the breaking upof the vast

few hours of

of ice,

which forms what

Quebec

called the bridge, from

here

is

grows indeed a very serious one: the eye


can distinguish, even at a considerable

to Point

imagined there could be nothing


in it worth attention; that the ice would
pass away, or dissolve gradually, day
Levi,

distance, that the ice

is softened and detached from the banks; and you dread


every step will bring death to those who

afterday, as the influence of the sun,

and
warmth of the air and earth increased;
and that we should see the river open,
without

degrees

having

observed

became

so.

it

have

pay

tain

its

assert

its

western

is

all

England.

in

we have seemed so
manner excluded.
The hour Is come; have been with a
crowd of both sexes, and all ranks,
hailing the propitious moment: our situation, on the top of Cape Diamond, gave
us a prospect some leagues above and
below the town; above Cape Diamond
the river was open, itwas so below Point
world from whence

the characteristic of this

world;

the

their rashness with their lives.

event, of the arrival of ships from that

those petty streams which

with the names of rivers


Sublimity

it, which
one or more

we honour

dignity in this instance as in

and

till

superiority over

others,

do

From the time the Ice Is no longer a


bridge on which you see crowds driving
with such vivacity on business or
pleasure, every one Is looking eagerly for
its breaking away, to remove the bar to
the continually wished and expected

found the great river, as the savages with much propriety call it, mainBut

the temerity to pass

still

they will continue to

what

by

Inter-

But, during the last fortnight, the alarm

body

uncommon warmth

vene.

loftiness

long

the

of

in

mountains, the grandeur of the lakes and


rivers, the majesty of the rocks shaded
with a picturesque variety of beautiful
trees

and shrubs, and crowned with the

noblest of the offspring of the forest,

which form the banks of the latter, are as


much beyond the power of fancy as that
of

description:

might here expand


find ideas

his imagination,

which he

our comparatively

Levi, the rapidity of the current

landscape-painter

seek

will

little

in

and

vain

in

a league continued firm.

world.

We

The object of which am speaking has


all the American magnificence.
The Ice before the town, or, to speak n
theCanadlan style, the bndge, being of a

ness

stood waiting with


of

expectation;

the bridge

seemed

it

made

a pause.

and more than a mile broad,

with redoubled

long time the rapid tide that

of Ice gave way.

resists for a

from the banks.


We are prepared by many previous
circumstances to expect something
It

extraordinarylnthlsevent,

every Increase of heat

Imaysocall

if

the eagertide

came

to shake, yet resisted

theforceof the waters; the tide recoiled,

thickness not less than five feet, a league

attempts to force

all

the

rushing with an amazing Impetuosity;

In length,

having

forced a passage for the water under the


transparent bridge, which for more than

It

stood

fury, the

still.

It

returned

immense mass

A vastplain appeared in motion; itadvanced with solemn and majestic pace:


the points of land on the banksof the river
for a few moments stopped its progress;

the weather

butthe Immense weight of so prodigious

near a month before the ice leaves the


banks; every warm day gives you terror

a body, carried along by a rapid current,

It;

In

for

you see venturing to pass it In


carrioles; yet one frosty night makes it
again so strong, that even the ladies, and
for those

Independent of what
tifications,

rock,

and

Quebec

owes

It

situation

Is

on

bore down

in that

[05

ir-

FRANCES 8KOOKE

The History ol Emily Montague

769

for-

impracticable for a besieging army to


carry on any works or blockade the town.

to

Its

much

of

its
I

ofthe winter, as

opposition with a force

the top of a

indebted for

strength to the severity

all

resistable.

and great length

season it

is

wholly

WEIO

Travels Through the States oi North

the Provinces of

America artd
Upper and Lower Canada 1 799

jl

The farmers- wives mar,u.<u lure lor


domest c wear, a woollen cloth, generany dyed of a light blue colour; the
reads of which are coarse, but closely

THE CITADEL OF THE ST LAWRENCE

woven. They make also

a cloth

thing like the Scotch drugget,

and

a, c^-^^

in

^..^^.^

Lower Canada

1805-06

Water-colour and
pen and ink drawings,
bVi

x8 inches

66

tfi

grows on their farms are rather of a


bleached on the grass nd
said to be durable. They have lately
begun to make a cloth of cotton yarn. Al-

some-

that

a stuf

tine quality,

which is wholly of wool. Some of


the linens which they make of the flax

cloth

SEMPRONIUSSTRETTON

Fashions

most every rarmer


districts
1

in the thinly settled

has a loom

in his

house; and

.1

L.

.1

theirwivesordaughters not only spin the


yarn, but

weave

the cloth.

THE CITADEL OF THE ST LAWRENCE

however, manulaclured by the farmers,


is
I

not
i_

more than
.1.

half

what

is

required to

lime Colonies ol British America

I-

clothe their tamilies.

The quantity.

<ri~-X

'^^l..-XUy

,^^,,^.,^^^;^

^^_^

mccricob

'*'<"."/ and DescipUve sketches oi the Mari-

t^OS^^^^r

4^ h^-^/r^

[67

1828

THEriTADEl OFTHEST lAWREVCE

)AMES HOPE

The Wolfe and Montcalm Monument, Quebec, Lower Canada


Water-colour,

The memorial
tary chiefs

honor of the two miliatthe head olthe op-

in

who fell

posing armies,

that decisive battle

in

which made these Provinces a portion


the British Empire,

is

now

of

completed,

and is a conspicuous, as it is the only classical, ornament of the city. It was originally designed by Captain, now Major

YONCE

of

the

79th,

or

Cameron

HIGHLANDERS, (then on the personal Staff


of HIS EXCELLENCY the EARL OF DALHOUSIE.)

an

officer

whose

taste

had been greatly


and is a com-

cultivated by foreign travel;

8%

distant view,

is

it

12%

seen

)une 17, 1841

inches

to the best

advan-

in

the Administration of the

tage from the centre of the channel

ment,

between the Lower Town and Pointe

KEMPT, C.C.B.,

Levi.

It

is

strictly classical in the

tions of every part.

base

is

To

propor-

the top of the sur-

thirteen feet from the ground.

On

Sarcophagus, seven feet

this rests the

The obelisk measures


forty-two feet eight inches, and the apex
two feet one inch, making in the whole
three inches high.

an altitude of sixty-five feet from the


ground. The dimensions of the obelisk at
the base are six feet, by four feet eight

Govern-

General Sir iames


and attended by the Staff,

Lieutenant

and a party of
and gentlemen of the city and
vicinity, proceeded to the walk in front of
several military officers,
ladies

the Governor's garden, to witness the


completion of the Monument. A few

minutes

after eight o'clock, the apex, or

was placed upon the summit;


and the ceremony of tapping it with the
mallet was performed by his nephew and
Aide de Camp, Captain FOX maule, 79th
cap-stone,

bination of various beautiful proportions

inches, tapering conical ly to the apex,

Highlanders, as proxy for the noble

be found in some of the celebrated


models of antiquity. It stands on the west
sideofDes Carrieres Street, leading from
the Place d'Armei to the glacis of Cape

where the sides are diminished to three


feet two inches, by two feet five inches.
This classical ornament of our city was

who ascended to the top of the obel iskfor

Diamond, within an area taken from the


upper garden belonging to the Government. In front is a broad walk, which has
become a public promenade, overlook-

inscription,

to

ing the castle garden, and

commanding

view of the harbor, and the beautiful scenery beyond it.


The Monument is a conspicuous objectfrom the River; butonaccountof the
numerous spires which rise around it in a
a fine

finished,

with

the

exception of the

on the 8th September; and

its

completion was witnessed by the zealous patron of the work, the earl of

On the

morning of that day,


not to be forgotten by the numerous
friends of that noble Lord, being the day
DALHOUSIE.

that

purpose.

memorial
through

to

Thus was this chaste


wolfe and montcalm.
exertions

the

Earl,

of

Mr.

)ohn

Phillips, the builder,

completed during

summer of 828,

to the great gratifi-

the

cation of HIS excellency,

who had

all

alongexpressed the strongest wish for its


completion before his departure from
QUEBEC.

of his departure from the Province, the

Government

of

which he had conscien-

tiously administered for eight years, his

HAWKINS
Hawkins's Picture of Quebec: with Historical

LORDSHiP,accompanied by hissuccessor

Recollections

[68

A,

834

THOMAS

DAVIES

THE ENVIRONS Of QUEBEC

TheChaudiere

Falls

near Quebec, Lower Canada

1792

Water-colour, 14 x 20'/2 inches

The situation of the house is enchanting;


and with all my passion for the savage
luxurianceof America, begin to find
I

my

morencies, none of those magnificent

every elegant

scenes on which the Canadians have a

ens

right to pride themselves; but

we

excel

taste return for the mi Id and more regular


charms of my native country [ England]
We have no Chaudieres, no Mont-

them in the lovely, the smiling; in


enamelled meadows, in waving corn-

The cataract of Chaudiere may be truly


said to form a complete whole. The scenery which accompanies it is beautiful
and romantic beyond description. In the
centre a large fragment of rock, which
firstdivides the water at the summit of the

green foliage, joined with the brown and

precipice, forms a sort of small island;

and a handsome fir-tree which grows


upon it is thus placed in a most singular
and picturesque situation. The forest on
eitherside the river consists of firs, pines,

and a variety of other


and shrubs intermingled in the most
wild and romantic manner. Their dark
birch, oak, ash,

trees

fields, in

gardens the boast of Europe;

in

sombre tint of the rocky fragments over


whichthe water precipitates itself, forms
a striking and pleasing contrast to the
snowy whiteness of the foaming surge,
and the columns of sparkling spray
which rise in clouds and mingle with the

human

art

which adorns and

soft-

the riches

and

in all

life;

beauty which cultivation can give.

FRANCtS BROOK!

The History of Emily Montague

769

Cimmerian darkness

into an expansive
viewof thefallsandthe lightof heaven. It
appears ike a sudden enchantment, and
I

the imagination

is

lost in the variety

and

grandeurof the scene. could have contemplated it for hours; but our time was
short, and we wished to return toQuebec
I

and

air.

before dark.

The gratificationon viewing thisbeautiful cataract is considerably enhanced


by the journey which the spectator is
obliged to take through a wild and
gloomy forest; the toil of which is amply
repaid when he emerges all at once from

romantic spot with the greatest reluc-

69

quitted this beautiful

tance; regretting that in

should never see

it

all

probability

again.

IIAMBERT

Travek Through Canada and the United Sidles


1814

THE ENVIRONS OF QUEBEC

my

former occasion, unhesitatingly stepped

formed

inexpressible joy, arrived at the level ice

over it and began dancing upon that por-

of the frozen spray at the foot of the Falls

surrounding the bottom, without sus-

it was evident to me, was


detached from the more solid and
substantial portion; remonstrated with
him on the folly of doing so, entreating

must now

the sliding

fulfil

my

down

of Montmorency.

promise

the

.After

to describe

cone of

ice

making many

and

started with great velocity;

taining the slightest injury.

to

fruitlessattemptstoarriveatthetop, with

my

face towards the cone,

leaned with
digging with

my back against and by


my heels sharply into the

him

it,

spongy surface, made a sufficientdent to


sustain my weight on one foot, whilst
with the other

made another dent higher

up, and so on alternately, until

ac-

complished my object.
The top was of the shape of a flattened

domeandthe

surfacesufficiently levelto

At length the ice began to perish, and as


is

it

will

then break through without any

more

slide,

on the 23rd of

impossible without receiv-

ing serious injury; yet when


the position

means

to a

and then getting

perfect perpendicular,

down seems

seemingly

was

in,

and

on
had no

reflected

that

of descending but by launching

myself off on

my back,

absolutely shud-

dered. Satisfied that had noalternative,


I

submitted to

my

fate;

and dragging

myself to the brink of the precipice,

April,

we

ordered out the sleigh, and reached the


falls, not, however, without observing

that

sight,

rotten, so that

kind of notice; yet, willing to have one

beyond that limit the face by which


had ascended was so steep, that it curved
under quite out of

became

there termed

it

several holes

to

come

back. Caddy, no doubt,

his position unsafe;

admit of several persons standing thereon, being about twenty feet in diameter;
but

which,

length

at

tion

partly

where

the feet of horses

had broken through the

We

it

ice,

indicating

was, indeed, preparing to depart.

nevertheless proceeded, and whilst

we were

we

sliding,

observed several

sleighs containing ladies

drive

up

and gentlemen
cone, and the

to the foot of the

gentlemen immediately commenced

as-

cending and sliding down,

no

to the

small diversion of the ladies.

Amongst

the

company was

a Lieu-

tenant John Caddy, of the Artillery,

who

on the top whilst was there, and


noticing the crack we had seen on a

arrived

70

and we both

felt

instant-

ly launched ourselves off todescend, yet


had not reached the bottom when we
were stunned by a sound somewhat resembling a heavy clap of thunder, connected with a deafening hissing. As soon
as we were able to scramble up and
regain our feet, we were petrified at the
fact that all that portion of the cone upon
which Caddy but twenty seconds before
had been dancing so merrily had sunk,
and the ice and spray were rushing up in
the most awful manner. Our confidence

in

the security of the ice

was

dispelled: everyone hastened

instantly

away

to-

wards their respective sleighs not more


than two hundred yards from the cone
and close to shore; and our course lay exactly over the ice which covered a wide

and deep basin formed, as usual, below


considerable falls, by the incessant
operation of the rushing water into one

THt ENVIRONS OIlJUfBEC

ANONYMOUS

The "Natural Steps" on the Montmorency

River,

Lower Canada

1835

Water-colour,

5%

x9Vi inches

OPPOSITE

lAMES PEACHEY

Montmorency

Here the height of the cascade was


about two hundred and forty-two feet,
spot.

over which the


ular.

slight

fall is

fall

of

nearly perpendic-

snow had covered or

effaced the marks of our feet


the cone,

which rendered

proceedcarefully

in

it

in

Lower Canada

able to persuade

my horse to perform the

distance,
C

was

at

1781 /Water-colour,

Quebec.
1852

part

river receives in

The

river

itself

into

Montmorenci, which empties


the Saint Lawrence, at the dis-

of the ice.

tance of eight miles to the north-east of

The party, probably about twenty in


number, keeping close together and
lormingone group, had nearly arrived at

Quebec, was called after a marechal of


that name, who was viceroy of New

the place
ing,

where

the sleighs

when we heard

were stand-

a loud splashing

and a strange noise behind us, upon


which everyone of the company started
round in fear and surprise, when, to our
astonishment and terror, we could not
perceive the slightest remnant of the
cone, nor of the sheet of ice coveri ng the
pool over which we had passed but an
instant before, yet

we could

readily trace

the marks of our footsteps from the spot

on which we were standing, over a space


of ice not exceed ng twenty yards, where
they led the eye into the uncovered and
deep water, rushing on with frightful
i

impetuosity.
In

the least space of time

France. Passing through a course from


the north-east, of considerable length,
the

is

was ever

its

progress, at the break-

and by the melting of


snows. From the middle of April, to the
end of May, its waters roll along with an
increasing height and rapidity. The
ing

up

of winter,

from

banks,

natural

the

steps,

downwards to the Saint Lawrence, are


composed ofa lime slate, placed in hori-

it

zontal strata, from the depth of five to

called La Motte, situated on the

twenty-four inches each, connected by

settlement

first

flows,

through which

gypsum

of a whitish colour.

The

northern extremity of a sloping ground,

fibrous

which gradually descends from the

waters, at the season already mentioned,

mountains, to the coast of the great

powerfully impelled

river.

At La Motte, the waters diffuse themselves into shallow currents, interrupted

by rocks, which break them into foam,


accompanied by murmuring sounds,
tending to enliven the solitude and solemn stillness, which prevail throughout
the surrounding forests,

and on the deso-

late hills.

The channel ofthe

down,

bounded by precipitous

is

river, farther

71

in

their

course,

between the strata,


dissolve the gypsum, and tear the horizontal rock, which gives way, in fraginsinuate themselves

ments of various

sizes, yielding to the

rushing violence of the sweeping torrent.

The
of

regularity displayed in the formation

some

of these steps,

is

of observation.

rocks,

breadth becomes extremely contracted, and the rapidity of its current is


its

proportionably augmented. At a place

by the accession of waters which the

going to

more tender

x22y2 inches

cades of the height of ten, or twelve feet.


These steps have been gradually formed,

lANDMANN

Adventures and Recollections

15'/i

called the natural steps, there are cas-

necessary to

order to avoid those

cracks which indicatea

Falls in the spring,

C.

HERIOT

Travels Through the

Canadas

well deserving

iinri

THE ENVIRONS OF QUEBEC

r'---iTnr-

lAMES PATTISON

COCKBURN

In

the parish ot the Chateau Richer

Lower Canada

on the

St.

Lawrence River near Quebec,

1830

Water-colour, 6 x9'/2 inches

The

settlement

derives

its

of

Chateau

name from the

ruins already described, the great river,

the island of Orleans, the point of

Cardien, and Cape

supply of provisions for the English army,

cottages; over

was deemed necessary to send thither a


detachment to make them prisoners.

and the chain

They had so

majesty.

a small rocky point,

the borders of the Saint Lawrence.

It

it

their

fortified

mansion, that

themselves within
field

Ange

Diamond in the discompose an agreeable scene.


Toward the east, a yet happier combi-

on
was
a Franciscan monastery, when the army
under General Wolfe encamped on the
eastern bank of the Montmorenci. As the
monks used their influence among the
inhabitants in their vicinity, to impede a
fice situated

on

Richer,

ruins of an edi-

tance,

nation of objects presents


left,

itself.

On

the

are the ruins of the monastery, the

church, banks cloathed with foliage, and


the lower grounds studded with white

nation

it

of

which Cape Tourment,


mountains whose termitower

forms,

with exalted

C HERIOT
Travels Through the

Canadas

807

and the ruins of an adjoining

tower, which

was formerly

a wind-mill.

By an inscription above the door, it appears to have been built one hundred
and twelve years ago. The parish church
isplaced on a bank, immediately behind
the chateau,

and has two

spires.

The

she has few wants


tocomplain of. Though she can not boast
of the elegance and refinements of
Europe, she can say, in this happy land
wretchedness and want are not known.
The environs of Chateau Richer, as the
for these associations,

favourite resort of snipe shooters, are

much

celebrated,

few places

in

the

country affording a greater abundance

game.
The falls of La Puce are two miles
beyond Chateau Richer, which the
traveller must not omit to see, as they are
well worth his attention, and may be
seen in half an hour without any dif-

nothing now remains, except a part of the


walls,

before she can

of that

pieces were

required to compel them to a surrender.


The house was destroyed by fire, and

Canada must wait some ages


become a land of recollectionsand poetry; to makeheramends

country.

ficulty.

The

Chateau Richer, though only


that of a square building, belonging to
the Semi nary, is interesting not only as an
ruin of

historical rel

ic,

but as a picturesque one,

being one of the very few ruins

72

in this

Ifthetraveller should pass this road


a fine Sunday, he will

opportunity of seeing the population


their best attire;

village

if

on

have an excellent

he arrives

in

at the pretty

church of St. Ann, situated on the

under lolty banks, about


morning service, when he will
tind the environs crowded with onehorsecaleches,the horse fastened toone
of the posts that for this purpose are
always planted near the church. The
church is generally so crowded, that
leltoi the road,

the ti me ot

THEF\VIR()\SOF<JlirBEr

^y'/^yt.effWe,^ .<5/#V^ ^/inrie-'j

,. Jg.

/i.\!

groupsofthe/iab/tantsaretobeseenout-

and covering the steps on

side

person

every

knees;

dressed, the

their

respectably

is

men mostly in grey cloth, the


their own fire side, as-

manufacture of

above noticed. This scene alone bespeaks not only of the wants of life being
amply supplied, but the numerous carriages clearly

show

that the substantial

comforts are not scantily enjoyed by

this

happy race. The village churches in


Lower Canada are generally six miles
asunder, and the Canadians who are particularlyzealous

in

theirreligiousduties,

are sure to attend from the

cottage
their

in the parish, either

most remote
on foot or in

neighbour's calech.

The road continues enlivened by the


appearance of numerous and cleanly
cottages on either side, till it reaches the
village of St. Ann; two miles beyond
which, and on the river of that name,
accommodations may be procured both
comfortable and cleanly, and where he
issure to meetwith civility and kindness.
If

pressed for time he

horse to ride to the

may

falls

here procure a

of

tance only of three miles;

St.

Ann,

a dis-

road as-

this

cends a part of the mountain which rises


here, from this ascent he has fine and extensive views of Quebec and the surrounding country; he proceeds ascendingtill hereachesa levelspotwhichcontinuesa mile and a half overa very rough

when he suddenly

path through a forest,

descendsand

finds himself enclosed in a

and trees, through the


which rushes the river St. Ann
itforces itselfthrougha narrowchasm

valley of rocks

centre of
till

of the rocks,

when

an angle of

at

forty-

continues tumbling and


roaring to the river below. The writer of

five degrees,

this

it

description

falls

would compare

more extensive

some

scale

to the

on

ANONYMOUS

after descending

rocks, the traveller has a magnifi-

cent view of the cataract, as


past.

it

of Trenton, though they are

The

diversified

it

The

hurries

Water-colour, 9Vi x

appearance of the

rocks and trees of this sequestered spot


will richly

reward the lover of romantic

scenery.

II

PCOCKBURNI

Quebec and its

on the St. Anne's River,


Lower Canada
1835
falls

Environs

[7i

5%

inches

IAME5 PATTISON

COCKBURN

THE ENVIRONS OF QUEBEC

Nets to capture the passenger pigeons near

St.

Anne's, Lower Canada

1829

Water-colour, lOVi x 1416 inches

At one period of the year numerous and

immense flights of pigeons visit Canada,


when the population make a furious war
against them both by guns and nets; they

length of the pole, and when he fires, few


if

any escape

prepared

innumerable
Ann

poles are

the market at Quebec remarkably cheap,

The
other method they have of taking them is
by nets, by which means they are
enabled to preserve them alive, and kill
them occasionally for their own use, or

often as low as a shilling per dozen, and

for the market,

sometimes even

glutted with them. Behind

supply the inhabitants with a material


part of their subsistance,

that the

and are sold

at a less rate.

pigeon prefers the

environs,

beauty of

the

process

St.

In

Upon

and

addition

Ann and

by which

inhabitants take the pigeons

remarking.

appears

loftiest

most leafless trees to settle on.


to the natural

It

in

is

its

the

worth

the loftiest tree, long

bare poles are slantingly fixed; small


pieces of

wood

are placed transversely

upon which the birds


crowd; below, in ambush, the sportsman
with a long gun enfilades the whole
across this pole,

at St.

when

tane's this sport

The

for this purpose.

may be

Madame

seen

in

Fon-

perfec-

placed

at

nets,

the

the opposite; a

man

is

74

hid in a small cov-

tree,

leading from the pullies

with a rope

in his

hand

directly the pigeons fly against the per-

pendicular nets, he pulls the rope,


top

the

net

immediately

when

falls

and

enclosesthe whole flock; bythis process

numbers are taken.


The following day an excursion may

vast

has ceased to be

it

which are very large, are


end of an avenue of trees,
(for it appears the pigeons choose an avenue to fly down) opposite a large tree,
upon erect poles two nets are suspended,
one facing the avenue, the other the tree,
another is placed over them, which is
fixed at one end, and supported by
pullies and two perpendicular poles at
tion.

ered house under the

be made to the fal Isof St. Ferreole passing


through a new settlement; the descent
here is rather fatiguing, but the falls have
been visited by Lady Dalhousie and several

ofour fair countrywomen. The view

will

more than compensate

fatigue.

On

should,

if

he has time,

farm called
nery,
II

St.

visit

third

day

COCKBURN]
Its

the

he

the Priest's

Joseph, to admire the sce-

and on the

Quebec and

for

his return to St. Ann's,

Environs

1831

to

Quebec.

his nviT,

Irorii

MontrodI

Quebet,

in the world it is settled on both


though the settlements are not so

matched
sides,

to

scene perhaps not to be

exhibits a

numerous on

the south shore as

other: the lovely contusion of

on the
woods,

mountains, meadows, corn-fields, rivers


(for

there are several

which

on both

themselves

lose

sides,

the

in

St.

JAMES PEACHEY

IHt

ROAD TO MONTREAL

Lawrence), intermixed with churches

pleasing to the most insensible

and houses breaking upon you

earth:

tance through the

trees,

landscapes, to which

at a dis-

form a variety of

it

is

difficult to

do

justice.

politely attentive to the pleasure she


I

had

in

making

the

saw

voyage agreeable

to

her.

This charming scene, with a clear

serene sky, a gentle breeze

in

our favour,

and the conversation of half a dozen fine


women, would have made the voyage

FRANCES BROOKE

The History of Emily Montague

Three Rivers, Lower Canada, from the road leading to Pointe du Lac

The town of Three Rivers is situated upon


a point of land, near the confluence with
the Saint Lawrence, of the stream from
which it derives its name. It extends

man on

my Emily loo of the party, and most

Water-colour, 5Vi x

which flows from

the north-east, for a

distanceof three hundred miles. Thither,


various

trit)es

1784

2 inches

of these savages, descend-

traded to this place, harassed and ex-

posed

to

continual danger, from the

frequent irruptions of that warlike na-

accustomed

ed from the vicinity of Hudson's bay, and


the country intervening between that

tion,

about three quarters of a mile, along the


north bank of the former. The surround-

and the

The town contains a convent of


which is adjoined a parochial church, and an hospital. It was
founded in 677 by M. de Saint Vallier,
bishop of Quebec, for the education of
young women, and as an asylum for the
poor and sick. A superior and eighteen
nuns now possess it, and discharge the

and its soil is composed of sand, mixed with black mould.


In the mouth of the stream, there are two
islands, which divide it into three
ing country

branches.

is

On

flat,

ascending

its

course, the

become wild and picturesque.


The town was indebted for its original esborders

tablishment to the profits arising from the

commerce

lor peltry,

fancy of the colony

which

in

the in-

was carried on by the

natives, through the course of this river.

Saint Lawrence.

Atlractedby the advantages which the


agreeable situation of the place, and the

rendezvous for traffic, presented, several


French families here established themselves. The proximity of the Iroquois, a
nation which cherished an irreconcilable hostility to the French, suggest-

ed the necessity of constructing a fort,


and the district of Three Rivers became,
at length, a separate government. After a
lapse of

some

years, the natives

75

who

discontinued

their

visits.

Ursulines, to

funi lions of this

humane

G HFRIOr
Travels Through the Caryadas

institution.

THE

ROAD TO MONTREAL

<i^ikjtk''<:

Clearing land. Lower Canada

Water-colour,

To clear lands

lower Canada, they cut

5% x9l4

1835

inches

The soil thus laid open becomes covered


with vegetation, and cattle are sent to
graze upon it. This mode is tedious and
expensive, and costs, including labour,

The Americans have introduced into the


province a practice much more simple
and economical, and attended with
equal success. They cut down the trees,
burn them, and sow between the trunks,
after having turned up the earth with a
harrow or hoe. A third method is by setting fire to the growing woods, and cut-

about

tingaround the barkof the largertrees, to

down

the

together,

in

wood

with a hatchet, heap

and burn

it;

it

the large roots are

extirpated by digging into the ground.

thirty shillings sterling

per acre.

C.

HERIOT

Travels Through the

1176

Canada^

807

prevent the sap from ascending; these


dry up during the

first

year,

and cease

to

re-produce theirfoliage; the farmer then

sows hisgrain, and removes at leisure the


trees that are dead. The cedar and spruce
trees, whose roots are incorruptible, and
long resist the ploughshare, it becomes
necessary to eradicate before the land

can be sown.

THE

ROAD TO MONTREAL

MILLICENT
The forges on the

St,

MARY CHAPLIN

Maurice River, Canada East

Water-colour,

On

S'/i

[St.

the soil in

which the ore

is

17'/4

1841

inches

posed of masses, easily detached from


each other, perforated, and the holes

menMaurice River], and about


nine miles up its course, an iron foundry,
which was first worked in 1737, is situated. The manufacture of ore into cast, as
wellas hammered iron, isherecarried on
to a considerable extent. The works, and
the banks ol the river already

tioned

with ochre.

filled

and

It

and

friability,

possesses softness,
for

promoting
found in

fusion, a grey limestone,


vicinity,

its

The hammered iron is


and tenacious, and has the

used.

is

soft, pliable,

quality of being but

found, are the

its

little

The

subject to the

property

property of government, and they are

influence of

Quebec, on
lease, at the rate ofeight hundred pounds
per annum. The ore lies in horizontal
strata, and near the surface. It is com-

probably derived from the materials

rented by a

company

at

employed

wood

in its

only

is

Through the Canadas

latter

77

807

is

fusion. For this purpose,

applied, which

preferable to mineral coal.

G. HERIOT

Travels

rust.

is

highly

MONTREAl-LAVILLE

The view from hence


description.

is

grand beyond

prodigious expanse of

open to the eye, with the


Lawrence winding
St.
through it, which may be traced from the
remotest part of the horizon. The river
comes from the right, and flows smoothcountry

noble

ly

is

laid

river

on, after passing

down the tremendous

rapids above the town,

stewards are appointed for the day,

and the company, often


amounting to one hundred persons, sits
together,

down

where it is hurried
I

over huge rocks with a noise that is heard


even up the mountain. On the left below

who

always chuse some new spot where


there is a spring or rill of water, and an
agreeable shade: each family brings cold
provisions, wine, &c.; the whole is put

to dinner.

its

churches,

monasteries,

little

its

old

islands in the river

Montreal, being placed one degree and


sixteen

minutes south from Quebec,

enjoys a more favourable climate. The

overgrown with wood, add

soil is richer,

greatly to the

beauty of the scene. La Prairie with


river,

its

church on the distant side of the


is

seen to the greatest advantage,

and beyond it, is a range of lofty mountains which terminates the prospect.
Such an endless variety and such a grandeur is there in the view from this part of
the mountain, that even those who are
most habituated to the view, always find
ita fresh subject of admiration whenever
they contemplate it; and on this part of
the mountain it is that the club which
mentioned generally assembles. Two
I

and the duration of winter is

not so long at the former place, as at the


latter,

by the space of

six

superiority, with respect to


soil,

thither in slays,

natural wharf, very near to the town,

is

formed by the depth of the stream, and


the sudden declivity of the bank. The
four streets extending in different direc-

America and
/ 799
the Provinces of Upper and tower Canada
Trave/s Through the States oi North

near the town, partly improved, partly

large

That of Quebec on the north, Saint


Lawrence towards the west, and the
Recollet and Saint Antoine towards the

tions.

glittering

and the shipping under

walls; several

conveyed

from Boston.

environs of Montreal are composed of

WELD

you, appears the town of Montreal with

spires,

are likewise

renders

it

preferable to

weeks. This
climate and

more abundantly supplied, and the


articles of living, are sold at a more reaare

sonable price, especially during winter,


the

inhabitants

States,

who

reside

of

the

United

upon lands bordering

on Lower Canada, bring for sale, a part of


the produce of their farms; quantities of
cod, and of other fish, in a frozen state.

[78

is

placed the college,

lately rebuilt.

These,

together with the town, contain about

twelve thousand inhabitants.


C HERIOT
Travels Through the

Canadas

1807

Quebec, as a

place of constant residence. The markets

when

south; in the latter

which has been

From the water we perceived no good


view of Montreal. High buildings, confusedly massed, and dirty quays, or
rather wharfs, appeared to our fancies to
give no great promise of the rival of
Quebec.
K

H iiONNVCASTLE

The Canadas

in

84

1841

GEORGE HERIOT

MONTREAL -lAVILLE

Montreal, Lower Canada from

St.

Helen's Island

ca.

1800

Water-colour, 4V2 x 18 inches

V /7/,m J

/Jte

(Ut/ ./^f/^f/frMl ^ait/m

f/u

./'>/i.

,///u ^^OU./lf/JlJn.

)AMES PEACHEY
Montreal, Lower Canada, from the top
of the

Mountain

October

15,

Water-colour, 5 x 10 inches

[79

1784

/A, yi'^/Jr/,/f ////,

MONTREAL- LA VILLE

Water<olour, 8V4 x 28 inches


(two sheets

descend from west to


street

is

east.

The upper

divided into two, by the

Roman

Catholic church, adjoining to which,


there

is

a large

open square, called

the

Place d'Armes.

this

precaution, as the roofs of

Canada are usually formed


of boards, and sometimes with the exterdwellings

ior

in

addition of shingles, they would, in

summer, become highly combustible


from without, and liable to ignition from
a small spark of fire. The houses which

never in a state

and the walls were

to resist the attack of a reg-

An act of the colonial legislature, was some me ago passed, for thei
ular army.

total

demolition. This has

in

a great

TheCatholic

the prevailing Religion in

is

and the Seigniory of the island is


held by the clergy of that church, from
which, with a heavy percentage ufxjn
the city,

the transfer by sale of


large revenue

many

is

and Scotch

city,

sion, as well as in neatness of edifices.

ally

Montrealis divided into the upper and


lower towns, although the difference of
level between them, exceeds not twelve

the lower class speak the English fluent-

or fifteen feet. In the latter are the public

sale of clothes, the entire street of Notre

market, held twice

in

the week,

and the

ly.

English

the French language

The shops are ver>' excellent, and


in one place so many for the
I

Dame

being occupied by them. The

vent of Recoliets, that of the sisters of

monument

will

Notre Dame, the Seminary, the Govern-

thirty feet in height,

without need of repairs, for a consid-

ment house, and the new Court of Law.


The religious edifices are constructed
with more solidity than taste, and all of
them are possessed of extensive gardens.

statue, with

number of years.

C HERIOT
Travels Through the

upon the

E T

Canadas

[81

807

very gener-

never saw

dirty building;

The town was enclosed by a stone fortification, which, having long fallen to
ruins, is now in a great measure levelled,
or removed. ltwasthusfortified,toguard

reside in the
is

spwken, and but few of the natives of

cathedral, the English church, the con-

erable

estates, a

Though so

degree been carried into effect, and the


place is now rapidly improving in exten-

Market-house

manner

all real

derived.

Hotel Dieu. The upper town contains the

are protected in the former


last,

inhabitants against the frequent irrup-

ti

The habitations of the principal


merchants are neat and commodious,
and their storehouses are spacious, and
secured against risque from tires. They
are covered with sheet-iron or tin;
without

its

tions of the Iroquois,

is

not only a shabby, but a


at

the head of

is

surmounted by his
an inscription and relievos

pedestal.

CCKE

A Subaltern's

it

erected to Nelson, about

Furlough

1833

ji

The

city

some

possesses

fine

MONTREAL- LA VIILE

public

which the Catholic Cathedral is probably superior to any thing of


the kind on the whole American Continent, or any structure of the 1 9th century.
The funds failed before it was completed; the tower, therefore, and some of the
work are unexterior ornamental
finished. It is of dark grey stone, and built
afterthe Gothic style ofarchitecture. The
dimensionsofthe interior are 255 by 1 30
feet, and it is capable of containing
1 2,000 people, there being two galleries
oneachsideof it. The vaulted roof is supbuildings, ot

ported by eighteen columns, stained

in

bad imitation of marble, and with great


want of good taste, has been chequered
with alternate black and white stripes,
which detract much from its beauty. At
the south end, there

our Saviour, but


in

in

a large stained

is

window, representing

the ascension of

my opinion executed

too gaudy a style to be pleasing; bright

greens, and yellow,

which are the predo-

minant colours, neither have a good


effect, nor do they throw a soft and

mellowed shade over

the

body

lAMES PATTISON

COCKBURN

Notre Dame Street and the old cathedral


of Notre Dame with the towers of
the new cathedral rising behind the
Seminary on the right, Montreal,

of the

church.

Lower Canada
[

July 2

COKE

Water-colour,

A Subaltern's

The

Furlough

the shore, from

reside.
still

where

is

St.

running parallel with

which

short cuts, at right

angles, communicate with Notre


street,

convent of Notre Dame, a religious


house of education, are buildings more

the principal merchants

These long corsos are rendered

well-planned canal send forth the riches

specimens of architecture in Montreal,


any more than at Quebec. The principal
are the Hotel Dieu, an excellent charity
for the destitute sick,
St.

served by nuns,
the Court

Paul-street;

House, in Notre Dame-street is a plain


and good building; the District )ail, and

theCovernment House,

are ancient

forlorn-looking edifices of

The old monastery

of

some

the

and

size.

Recollets

a large but

near

taste in the interior;

some

did not perceive any very striking

is

it,

is

the

Seminaire de St. Sulpice; and in the


Recollet suburbs is the Petit Seminaire,

a long street to the west.

in

829

inches

bad

The Catholic cathedral

or

is

1 ,

16'/4

not fine church, finished with singular

useful than ornamental.

Dame-

longer by the suburbs of Quebec,

which

neighbourhood of the mouth of the


Lachine canal, where the sombreness of
the old town is altogether lost sight of;
and the European traveller is gratified by
seeing a well-finished and apparently

and of Recolletand St. Antoine, whilst in


the middle of Rue Notre Dame the
suburbofSt. Lawrence runs intheformof

2%

1833

mercantile street

principal

Paul-street, or that

new

college,

which

is

an addition to

the former establishment,

correctness of taste

and exhibits
the plan on

in

which it is laid out.


The old market-place and Post Office

of the upper country.


In this city, one is amused by seeing the
never-changing lineaments, the long
queue, the bonnet-rouge, and the inces-

sant garrulity, of Jean Bapliste, mingling


with the sober demeanour, the equally

unchanging

feature,

and the national

new market-

plaid, of the Highlander; whilst the untu-

place has been built in the upper town.


The barracks and other public buildings
connected with the government have

of the ocean, are here as thoughtless, as

are in the lower town, but a

nothing very striking

in their exterior.

The Place d'Armes, the


space
lar,

in

largest

open

the city, offers nothing particu-

excepting when filled by the citizens,

to listen to the enlivening strains of a

finishesthewestofRue Notre Dame. The

military band.

convent of the Soeurs Oris, or general


hospital for the aged and infirm, and the

the prettiest spot

In

the town, or rather in the suburbs,


I

observed was the

82

tored sons of labour, from the green

isle

ragged, and as numerous, as at Quebec.

Amongst

these,

all

the

shrewd and

calculating citizen from the neighbour-

ingrepublic drives his hard bargainswith


all

the

wonted zeal and industry, amid


fumes of Jamaica and gin-sling.

his

H 80NNVCASTLE

The Canadas

in

84

184t

JAMES PATTISON

COCKBURN

MONTREAL- LA VIILE

Paul Street looking towards the Bonsecours Church


and the Theatre Royal, Montreal, Lower Canada
July 20, 1829
Water-colour, 10% x 17% inches
St.

The

French cathedral in the Place


d'Armes is a large substantial stonebuilding, built with
terior
in the

IS,

taste.

little

The

in-

however, plentitully decorated

Catholic style, with

all

the para-

phernalia of that religion; and the size


of the building renders

it

a very

com-

modious place of worship, and well


adapted for the accommodation of its
numerous congregation. In summer, a
great

many people

church
I.

in

kneel outside the

preference to being within.

lAMStRT

Traveli

Through Canada and the United Slates

t8l-

PHILIP JOHN BAINBRIGGE

The Protestant and Calholic Cathedrals


of Montreal, Lower Canada
1840
from near Mount Molson
Water-colour,

(83

6x10 inches

In the

MONTREAL-LA VILLE

evening the Professor and an old

mine in the Engineers called on


They told us that yesterday "a shove,"
as it is called, on the St. Lawrence took
place; and as it was still moving, we had
hopes of seeing it on the next morning. A
shove is the ice formed up the river being
broken by the force of the current, and
driven violently against the sheet which
covers the stiller water on the wide exfriend of
us.

when

panse opposite Montreal,

the

whole mass with terrific crashes breaks


up into huge fragments; the sheets which
come hurrying down from the Ottawa
and the upper part of the St. Lawrence
rushing both under and over that which
was stationary; when the whole confused mass drives against the island and
shores of the river, sometimes sliding
two hundred feet over the land, and rising twenty and thirty feet, and sometimes much more, against walls and
other impediments in its way. The water
from above, at the same time impeded
by the mass of ice, rises many feet and

floods the country.

Montreal

large

city

about
time,

in

compelled

were

canoes; while,

they were greatly

their dwellings

to

in-

fear

that

What with tires

and floods the residents in Montreal


seem to have an uneasy life of it. Mr.
Logan gave me the following very interestingaccountof the packingof the ice in
the St. Lawrence.
"The frost commences about the end of
November, and a margin of ice of some
strength soon forms along the shores of
the river and around every island and
projectingrock
still

water,

it

is

in

it;

and whereverthis

is

immediately cased over.

The wind, acting on

this glacial fringe,

breaks off portions

various parts, and

in

these proceeding down the stream, constitute a

moving border on

and most delightful day, with a


and clear sky, while the cold

fresh

the outside of

bright sun

was not too severe to be unpleasant. Accompanied by my old friend N


we went down to the river to see the ef,

fects of the shove. Far as the

eye could

Lawrence
was covered with blocks of ice, one
overlapping the other, at an angle of
about 45. In some places the slabs had
reach, the surface of the

St.

HENRY lAMESWARRE

Montreal, Lower Canada from the frozen

St.

Lawrence River

same

would be completely

ruined by the inundation.

1'

move

at the
in

'

was

yesterday under water, so that the


habitants

;i\

suburb of

west of the

to the

Iv-^^-^t?

r.'^^^pk .r.^

the stationary one, which, as the mtensity of the

cold increases,

is

continually

augmented by the adherence of the icesheets, which have been coasting along
it; and as the stationary border thus robs
the moving one, this still further

some

at the

where

which

the river

the
is

The

first

many channels
split

St.

into

up great assist the

process.

"As soon as

wintry barrier

is

thrown

across (generally towards Christmas),


of course rapidly increased by

been forced up to form

it

stoppmg

some ten
whole surface

hi locks,
I

to fifteen feet in height, the

being far too rough to allow any person


walking over it. Huge masses had been

up eight or ten feet above the level


which the water had also
covered, but that had much subsided,
though still far above its usual height in
summer. Furtheron, anotherhuge pile of
ice-blocks had been formed, still higher
pi led

of the quays,

[84

considerable

grandeur,

whole surface of the stream


being covered with it. It moves in solid
and extensive fields, and wherever it
nearly the

under it and then closely packed.


Beneath the constantly widening icebarrier mentioned, an enormous quantity is

this

of

floating

time assumed a

stationary ice, the fragments are driven

river.

entrance of the river into Lake

Peter,

character

downward
this

ice-

nearlymeeting, thefloatingice becomes

is

which has by

usually formed

parts

the margins from the opposite shores

bridge below Montreal

ice,

meets with an obstacle in its course, the


momentum of the mass breaks up the
striking part into huge fragments that pile
over one another; or, if the obstacle be

outflanks the other, until in

jammed up across the

the progress of the

rent

where the
any position, where the cur-

thus driven, particularly

barrier gains
is

stronger than usual.

"There

is

no place on the

St.

Lawrence

than those near us; while beyond

it

again, to the westward, a long line like a


reef of rock

extended outward from

point of land running into the river, and

which forms what we may properly call a


"break-ice" to the quays

in front

of the

and which, without the protection


of this point, would be overwhelmed, if
not completely destroyed. To comprehend fully the immense and destructive
city,

MONTREAL- LA VILLE

tains

is

sometimes

height of twenty,

twenty-six feet above


at this

summer

its

level.

It

period that the grandest move-

ments of the ice occur. From the effect of


packing and piling and the accumula-

snows

tion of the

of the season, the satu-

ration of these with water,

ing of the

whole

and the

into a solid

after

it

at-

become

has

fixed as far as the eye can reach, a

sudden

water, occasioned by

rise in the

it

twenty feet

tains the thickness of ten to

and even more; and

freez-

body,

some

impediment from submerged ice


up a wide expanse of covering of

greater
lifting

the river, so high as to free

many

it

from the

points of rest and resistance, the

is set in motion by the whole


power of this gigantic stream.
Proceeding onward with a truly terrific

vast

mass

hydraulic

majesty,

it

pilesupover every obstacle

when forced

encounters, and

row part
sure

:^^\

iV^lfv

^^-i^

up

it

it

into a nar-

of the channel, the lateral pres-

there exerts drives the border ice

the banks,

where

it

sometimes ac-

to the height of forty or fifty

cumulates
feet.

"In front of the


Pencil drawing,

ia-)0

x2

8'/4

inches (two sheets)

town

of Montreal, there

has lately been built a fine revetement


wall of cut lime-stone, to the height of

twenty-three feet above the

phenomena

summer

now a great

ot the taking,

merged and crammed beneath; and

level of the river. This wall

packing, and shoving of the ice, are so

when we consider that an operation sim-

protection against the effects of the ice.

grandly

ilar to this

where

the

all

displayed

as

in

the

neigh-

bourhood of Montreal. The violence of


thecurrenis is here so great, and the river
in some places expands tosLJch a width,
that whether we consider the prodigious
extent of the masses moved, or the force
with which they are propelled, nothing
can afford a more majestic spectacle or
impress the mind more thoroughly with a
sense of

irresistible

power. Standing

for

hours together on the bank overlooking


St.

Mary's Current, or wandering up and

down

weary spirit on the shores of


have seen league after league
crushed and broken against the

like a

the Styx,
of ice

barrier

lower down, and there sub-

power

of the

ice,

the

scene

have

described must be witnessed, and yet

engineering science

is

now attempting to

Lake

St.

occurs

various parts from

in

upwards,

Peter

it

will

not

of Montreal;

which

and

as the space through

that current flows,

island of

St.

between the

Helen's and shelving ledges

this

built, the

sloping

deep and narrow pas-

of trap, affords a

sage lor nearly the whole body of the


river,

it

may

well be imagined that

when

the packing here begins, the inundation


rapidly increases.

"The water

the ice-houses

marked

W.H.G. KINGSTON

harbour usually

in the

plough, which

They
an

first

were under two

ice-

fourorfive

shape not very

dis-

hundred such blocks is three


whether delivered at the icehouse or on the river know not. The
waterranrapidly under the hole thus cut,
and rose at once to the level of the ice, but

on the

is in

common

plough, and then

Amongthis chaotic massol ice werea


few level spots, on one of which people
were skating, in another men were

the slabs thus separated through the

engaged

readiness to

similar to a

angles to the line marked by the

plough. Other

water

men

with hooks dragged

where sleighs were in


carry them off. The slabs

to a spot

Western Wanderings

ice with

the city.

in

a furrow

at-

right

fill

was

bank guided the moving mass up to those


of gardens and houses in a very dangerous manner, and many accidents used to
occur. have seen it mount a terrace garden twenty feet above the bank, and
crossing the garden, enter one of the
principal streets of the town."

with long saws they cut through the ice at

ice to

wall

before

By thetimethe ice has become stationary at the foot of St. Mary's Current,
the waters of the St. Lawrence have
usually risen several feet in the harbour
swell.

river.

sawing out slabs of

Broken by it, the ice piles on the street or


above it, and there stops; but

terrace

surprise us that the river should gradually

oppose this power in the wonderful


bridge which is being thrown across the

in

is

85

feet in thickness,

in length.

told for a

dollars; but

did not overflow

it.

H.C, KINGSTON

Western Wanderings

and

Thechargewewere

1856

^A^

:y^^^._

SUjOTLa^^ u^tCiHENRY lAMESWARRE

much:
in

as there

the winter,

dissipation;

don't feel

it

so

is

no business done here

'tis

the season of general

amusement

is

the study of

every body, and the pains people take to


please themselves contribute to the general pleasure:

upon

-^-^ -^-y

Sleighing In the country. Lower

begin not to disrelish the winter here;


I

/^

the whole,

//^ ^j

^^

Sleighing

now am used to the cold,

MONTREAL - LA VIILE

am

not

In

Canada

1842

Water-colour, S'A x lOVj inches

Montreal, Lower Canada

sure

it

is

not a pleasanter winter than that

of England.

objects

Both our houses and our carriages are

uncommonly warm;
sky, the dry

every body has a carriole, the variety of

pure

air,

the clear serene


the

little

parties of

new

that

is

to

difficult

pleasant to

an European, keep the

continual agreeable hurry,

spirits in a

to

describe, but very

feel.

dancingandcards, the good tables we all


keep, the driving about on the ice, the

abundance

of people

86

we

see there, for

FRANCES BROOKE

The History of Emily Montague

769

PHILIP

)OHN BAINBRIGGE

The

fort at

THE RICHEIIEU ROUTE

Chambly, Lower Canada

1838

Water-colour, 6 x 8V2 inches

The town of William Henry, orSorei,

in

latitude 45 55',

is

longitude 73 22',

agreeably situated
theSorel

at the

orChambly

confluence of

river,

with the Saint

Lawrence, and contains a protestant,


and a Roman catholic church. The Sorel
lakes

its

rise

directing

its

from lake Champlain, and


course towards the north,

through

runs

counlry,

by several
farms.

where

On

fertile

its

and

pleasant

borders are adorned

valuable

and productive

the site of the town, a fort

was

Champlain, and the junction of this


stream with the Saint Lawrence, there are

two

forts situated

on

its

banks, the one

composed

called Saint John,

of cedar

Chambly,
built of stone in a quadrangular form, and
having the appearance of a castle. It is the
onlyedifice in North America, which has
any resemblance to that ancient mode of
pickets

and

earth, the other,

structure. Saint)ohn

and a company
tillery,

is

a frontier garrison,

of infantry,

and some

are generally stationed in

it.

ar-

As the

France, as a defence

channel of intercourse between Montreal and the United States of America, is

M.

principallythrough this post, a collector,

deSorel, a captain, superintended itsex-

and comptroller of the customs, always


reside here. The country around Cham-

constructed
viceroy of

in

1665, by M. de Tracy,

New

against the irruption of the Iroquois.

him this part of the


name. Between Lake

ecution, and from


river

received

its

bly, exhibits a

romantic aspect; the

87

river.

in this part

rushes

shallow, broken and diffused,

down

pleasingshape, rears

tain, of a
in

by
and elevated moun-

a declivity, interrupted

rocks; an extensive

the midst of level lands,

between

its

pure water.
)uly,

great

conical summits, a lake of


In the

months of June and


of timber and

quantities

boards formed into

rafts,

two or three hundred


floated

itself aloft,

and confines

down this

frequently of

feet in length, are

river,

from the borders

of lake Champlain. These materials are

used

in

ship-building,

and are also ex-

ported to England.

C HERIOI
Travels

Through the

Canada

807

1!

THE RICHELIEU ROUTE

THOMAS

DAVIES

A southeast view of Crown Point on


12x18 inches

Water-colour,

the Richelieu River

1759

THf RICHELIEU ROUTE

morning we

Early the next

left

Ticon-

deroga, and

pursued our voyage to


Crown Point, where we landed to look at
the old fort. Nothing is to be seen there,

however, but a heap of

ruins: for shortly

was given up by the British, the


powder magazine blew up, by which accident a great part of the works was
before

it

destroyed; since the evacuation of


also, the

people

in

it

the neighbourhood

have been continually digging in different parts, in hopes of procuring lead


and iron shot; a considerable quantity
was in one instance got out of the stores
that had been buried by the explosion.
The vaults, which were bomb proof,
have been demolished for the sake of the
bricks for building chimneys. At the
south side alone the ditches remain perfect; they are wide and deep, and cut
through immense rocks of limestone;

and from being overgrown towards the


top with different kinds of shrubs, have a
grand and picturesque appearance. The
view from this spot of the fort and the old
buildings in it overgrown with ivy, of the
lake, and of the distant mountains
beyond it, is indeed altogether very fine.
The fort, and seven hundred acres of
good cleared land adjoining to it, are the
properly of the state of New York, and are
leased out at the rate of one hundred and
fifty

equal to .33. 10s. sterling

dollars,

per annum,

which is appropriated for the


use of a col lege. The farmer who rented it
told us, he principally

made

use of the

land for grazing cattle; these, in the

winter season,

when the

lake was frozen,

he drove over the ice to Albany, and


there disposed

of.

Crown Point
spot

is the most advantageous


on the shores of Lake Champlain for

a military post, not being commanded by

any rising grounds in the neighbourhood, as Ticonderoga is, and as the


lake is so narrow here, owing to another
point running out on the opposite side,
that it would be absolutely impossible for
a vessel to pass, without being exposed
to the fire of the fort. The Indianscall this
place Tek-ya-dough-nigarigee, that

is,

two points immediately opposite to


each other: the one opposite to Crown
Point is called Chimney Point; upon it
are a few houses, one of which is a
the

tavern.

I.WtLO

America and
Upper and Lower Canada 1 799

Travels Through the States ol North

the Provinces of

89

THE RirHEllFLl ROUTE

JAMES HUNTER

A southwest view of St. John's on


Water-colour, 16 x23 Inches

the Richelieu River

St. John's is a garrison town; it contains


about fifty miserable wooden dwellings,

and barracks, inwhichawhole regiment


is generally quartered. The fortifications
areentirely outof order, so much so that
it would be cheaper to erect fresh works
than to attempt to repair them. There is a
king's dock yard here, well stored with
timber, at least,

when we saw

it;

but

in

the course of the summer, after the armed

mentioned was laid up, all


off. The old hulks of
several vessels of force were lying opbrig

which

the timber

was sold

posite the yard. In proportion to the

New York and


town must improve,
port of entry on Lake

increaseof trade between

Lower Canada
as

it

is

this

the British

Champlain.
The country about

St.

John's

very bare of trees, a dreadful

is flat,

and

fire in

the

year 1788 having done great mischief,

and destroyed
miles;

in

all

some

the

woods

parts

bourhood the people

of
suffer

for several

the

neigh-

extremely

during winter from the want of

fuel.

I.WELD
Travels Through the Slates of North America
the Provinces of

Upper and Lower Canada

90

and
799

1779

lESPATRtOTES

lAMES HOPE
The 7th Hussars
Lower Canada

in

Quebec,
1838

Water-colour,
eVi X a% inches

The first symptoms of the RebelNon of


1837 showed themselves at Montreal,
where it was immediately quashed. AtSt.
Dennis and St. Charles, on the river

made

Markham, with

the light

company

32nd, and under a heavy


fortified

until

fire

of the

from some

houses. The engagement lasted

near three o'clock

in

the afternoon,

was completely successful. They left


Montreal on the 8th of November, and
had to contend with the same wretched
1

He

roads and worse weather.


the passage of the Richelieu

Papineau and
"Sonsof Liberty" formed a
confederation, planted the tree and

which time Captain Markham, assisted by Lieutenant ngl is and a small party,
in attempting to carry a building, was
severely wounded, and brought to the

To drive them
strongholds, two

ground; and, although Lieutenant Inglis


kept up a fire, he was on the pointof be-

ing before

Richelieu, the rebels

their first

stand. At the latter place,


his self-styled

raised the

cap of

from these

liberty.

fortified

brigades were dispatched from

Mon-

at

ing

made

prisoner,

when

Sergeant Al-

sant
fell,

in

effected

an inces-

downpour of rain, which froze as it


and was illuminated, for two hours,

by the blue

lights of the rebels.

St.

summoned

On

arriv-

Charles, Colonel Wetherel

the rebels to surrender. This

was answered by a cheer

of contempt.

The gallant Colonel deployed his men,


and instantly commenced an attack. The
breast-works were stormed and carried.
Mostofthe rebels ran, with theexception
of about fifty, who knelt down and

state

cock, of his company, rushed forward

mud,

hard to bear the weight of the men, they

and bore him away, the rebels all the


time keeping up a murderous fire, from
which Captain Markham received

broke through the crust and sunk deep at

another

every step. The attack upon

sergeant's arms.

reversed their arms, thereby intimating

under the command of the Honourable


Colonel Gore, mis-carried, the troops
being led to the attack when worn-out,

The brigade being then threatened on


all sides by the insurgents, who had
received numerous reinforcements and

thatthey surrendered themselvesas pris-

jaded and dead-beat, after marching the


whole of the night of the 22nd of
November, over the vilest of Canadian
roads, through which they had floundered knee-deep in mud; norwas it until
ten o'clock in the morning of the 23rd
that they reached St. Dennis, where they

seized a bridge

treal.

The roads were

in

wretched

for the transport of the troops: the

bemg

frozen

at top,

but not sufficiently

St.

Dennis,

foundihe rcbelsoccupycngthevillage

in

attack

whilst

was

led

by

Captain

in

the

brave

in the rear, the largest

immoveably by
the frost in a deep rut, from which itcould
not be brought to bear, and the ammunifield-piece being fixed

tion

nearly

expended,

all

Captain

Markham's part was obliged to retire.


Colonel Gore commenced a retrograde
movement, leaving many prisoners and
hands of the rebels.
The brigade under Colonel Wetherel

the howitzer in the

great force.

The

wound

91

oners.

No

sooner,

however, did the

troops advance to take them than the trai-

opened a fire, by which a sergeant


was killed and many men wounded. This
tors

act

of

treachery

so

exasperated

the

troops that the officers could not restrain


their

fury,

and

general

massacre

ensued; and many were drowned in attempting to escape the enraged soldiery.
The estimated loss of the rebels was
about 300,

On

the

and wounded.
appearance of the troops

killed

first

LESPATKIOIES

fBttr

-^ifafe.;;^:^,^^,:

^fe=:_-^^.-i^::lAMES HOPE

The Grenadier Guards


Water-colour,

before

Charles, the cowardly rebel

St.

under pretence of
procuring reinforcements; while Papineau and O'Callaghan, who had "Fled
like crows when they smell powder"
preferred viewing the engagement from
leaders

deserted,

the opposite side of the river; but the

defenders of the village,

some 1,500

number, fought with a spirit worthy


of a better leader and a better cause.
A hundred stand of arms, a couple
of French six-pounders (committed to
the safe keeping of Richelieu) were
in

taken and
;

upon

standard,

wooden

among the trophies, the rebel-

tablet,

the pole of

which was

bearing the inscription

"APapineau, parses concitoyensreconnaissans."

On

the arrival of the vic-

9x13

in

Quebec, Lower Canada

At St. Dennis, the howitzers and wounded men were retaken, and the strongholds of the rebels reduced to ashes.
Upon the first intimation of the chance
of rebellion in Lower Canada, Sir |ohn
Colborne did everything that a skillful
commandercould devise lobe prepared
to meet it; and, being cut off from all
chances of succour from home, (the
winter having set in) he instantly communicated with the governors of New
Brunswickand Nova Scotia, in the event
of requiring reinforcements;

which

rein-

forcements could only reach him by


traversing the

onies

woods between

and Quebec.

therefore,

of

In

anticipation,

services

their

required, engineers

those col-

being

were despatched

under Wetherel, at
Montreal, Sir John Colborne sent reinforcements to Colonel Gore, with instructions that he should follow up the
advantages already gained, and reduce

with parties of Indians to prepare camps

thedisaffected country on the Richelieu.

and the 43rd

torious

brigade,

or houses of refuge along the

intended route. There were


three regiments in

1838

Fall

inches

Nova

ne of the ir

garrison

at

and

John

St.

When affairs assumed a


acter in

about

serious char-

Lower Canada, and the

line

be taken by the disaffected


became sufficiently evident, a despatch

was

to

sent to Fredericton, ordering the

43rd Light Infantry


of the

Madawaska

accomplished
arrival at

in

to pass "the
to

Quebec;

Portage"
this

they

thirteen days. Their

Quebec was

hailed as next to a

miracle, and theirexploits in performing

such a march

in

the depth of a North

American winter were the theme

of uni-

versal admiration at the time.

They were subsequently followed by


and 34th. The baggages of the
regiments, as well as all the women and
children, were left behind until the followingsummer; and it must be remarked
the 85th

New

Brunswick,

time

of the inhabitants of

and

New

that they deser\'e the greatest credit for

Scotia

at Halifax,

Light Infantry, divided into

in

Fredericton.

at that

Brunswick; the 34th and 85th

92

wings,

their loyalty

and generous conduct;

for,

besides their public exertions to assist

in

LESPATRIOTES

RICHARD GEORGE AUGUSTUS LEVINGE

Thi- 4 in

marching to Canada trom Ni


Lawrence River

Kii;inient

Arrival at the

St.

December, 1837

Water-colour, 8 x lOVi inches

every way the transport of the troops, the


inhabitants of St. John entered into a
subscription

the

for

women and children


34th, who must have
had

it

the

of the 43rd

and

suffered severely

not been for this most timely and

charitable

On

of

support

relief.

the 12th of

December, the

first

keep our

legs

warm, and we were each

served out with a couple of blankets."

Our

friend, after describing the

above

"weather-proof" garments, adds, "My


travelled with me, and helped

dog 'Bob'

keep me warm." The officers all had


snow-shoes, and twelve or fifteen pair
were served out (each man ought to have
to

Fredericton in fifteen sleighs; and they

had a pair) for the men of every company.


They had extra socks, mocassins, ear-

weresubsequently followed daily by the

covers, throat-warmers, extra flannels,

company

of the 43rd Light Infantry

left

Sub writesto hisfriend


in the old country: "It certainly was a
curious sight altogether. Our costumes
self, par example, wore four pairs of
socks, {i.e. when started) then mocassins, over which had large worsted soil

otherfive.

jolly

of long boots, P trowsers, thick P P coat,

over that a coat


outre, but very

made
warm and

of seal-skin, rather

comfortable;

then a buffalo-skin muff, fur cap, ear

and lots of gloves, mits, boas,


&c.,oceansof baccy, and a short Indian
pipe; to this we added a buffalo skin, to

covers,

and

a pair of blankets.

Rations of pork, biscuits, and

were served
received

The

field

officers

out,

rum

and the regiment

allowance.

were allowed

a sleigh for

from the

good

jolly

Padres,

"Round

tat oily

men

of

Cod

as ever

On coming

to the Arestook river the


had not "made" sufficiently, and
they had to cross in small canoes. This
was a tedious operation, but, by lashing
two canoes together, and placing the
sledssingly or in pairs across them, it was
effected after much delay. Some few acice

cidents happened, but the contrivance

men, and a camp-kettle was


issued to each company. So far as
Madawaska, the men were put up in
private houses, and the officers at the
innsor taverns. On the St. Lawrence they
were almost universally put up in the

means

merry

sang a psalm.
Or closed a penitential fee devoutly in
their palm."

wasexcellent, and

93

who were

fellows,

themselves and baggage, and a campkettle. Each sleigh, drawn by two horses,
held eight

much hospitality

convents, and received

is

well worthy of imi-

tation in the passage of a river; for

of

it

immense

loads are

capable of transportation, and it


lutely impossible to uspet them.

is

by

made
abso-

Madawaska, the
camp on the left
bank of the river of that name. "We were
After

leaving

the

troops reached the

first

LESPATRIOTES

'^'^

''^

M^

')

H'

t^

^'t^'i

PHILIP

&
all

heartily tired," says our Sub; "but,

snow-storm and
were compelled to remain in

notwithstanding the
cold,

the

we

open air all

night,

any time

to stay

thisone

in the

being impossible

it

camp, as they, and

was dreadfully full


They were constructed with

in particular,

of smoke.

feet in length

logs, about thirty


een wide, open

at the

by eight-

top and at the

doors; and, with three persons only

them, were awfully cold.


ing fires, but,

when our

in

We

feet

had blazwere burn-

mg, (which they constantly were) our


heads were freezing; the tea froze a foot
from the fire, and the thermometer inside

former one

warm, but never


Worse camps

generally

is

suffocated, as

in

the

latter.

than ours, and worse adapted to the purpose, could not possibly be made.

always had

to wait

some time

provision-sleigh's arrival,

and

On entering the Madawaska district,a

were 'stowed' closer, but on


march they constantly had
their feet, ears, or fingers frozen, and
when we got in at night, we had the
agreeable task of rubbing them with
snow to restore circulation. The cooking
went on outside, where a sentry always

and the

the line of

invited to private houses,

we

turned out our

buffalo skins, ate our pork and biscuits,


drank our tea and hot rum or brandy and
water, and fell asleep, from which we

usually

well

awoke from the

bestiffened

Camping

in the

Indian fashion

work

in

to

and got up

renew our

woods
is

cold,

in

winter

fires.

in

the

perfect 'feather-bed'

comparison

to this, as in the

Lower Canada, the troops were

hospitably received by the inhabitants,


officers in

many

instances were

and experimention this, as

enced much attention.


it has been asserted that the inhabitants
were disaffected. But their conduct
towards the officers and the men of the
I

three regiments,
their

country

tion in their

were

in

at a

who
time

passed through

when

the popula-

immediate neighbourhood

open

rebellion,

gives

the

strongest contradiction to that report.

Had they been otherwise than peaceably


inclined, a

few

trees, felled

St.

Water-colour,
6 X 8% inches

with comparatively little danger to themselves.

hopes

have adverted to this point, in the


of removing any erroneous

impressions produced
reflections

on the

On arriving at St. Andre, on the St.


Lawrence, the leading company halted
for the arrival of the second; and so on
from thence

to Point Levi,

les"toeach grand division. On reaching


Point Levi, they were cheered tremen-

across the

Quebec

turned out to witness the passage of the

Lawrence, which they accomplished


The river was covered with

St.

in

log canoes.

ice, on which, as
was propelled downwards by the

huge massesof floating


it

stream, the

canoe

men

landed, hauled the

to the other side of the ice, re-em-

barked, and so on, until they reached the

opposite shore. They were received by


the

Queen's Volunteers

in their

rough

blanket coats, bands playing, and the

whole

population

cheering

vocifer-

They were almost carried up to the


Jesuits' Barracks, and were looked upon
as having performed a miracle; and during their stay (for nine days) they were
ously.

regularly feted.

Echoes from the Backwoods

opposite to

Quebec: they proceeded twocompanies


at a time, having one hundred "Cario-

impeded their progress, and


they could have done infinite mischief

[94

by slanderous

loyalty of these people.

route taken by the troops, might have


seriously

Denis,

Lower Canada
1837

dously, and the whole town of

enjoyed the fun excessively."

able: they

last

late

men's dinners, frugal as they were, ecu Id


be cooked; in addition to which, visiting
the sentries at night, looking after and
doctoring the men, were anything but
recruiting. But, mdependentlyof leaving
New Brunswick, like it very much, and

part of

at

was

generally before our and the

at night

thecampwasat29be/ow zero; the men


were much better off and more comfort-

was. Well!

it

We

for the

lOHN

BAINBRICCE

C A LEVINCE
1

849

LESPATRIOTES

'^^'

to;

^j[pbi

'lU-v
^^":'
-It

\
PHILIP

JOHN BAINBRIGCE

The

ruins of

Sir

John Colborne, after detaching Major

Townsend with a part of the 24th, and the


Volunteers of St. Andrews to St. Benoit,
moved upon St. Eustache, and crossed
the North Branch of the Ottawa, near

St.

December, three miles


below the vi llage, with two brigades, and
Rose, on the 14th

six field pieces; the

Cavalry,

and

Montreal Volunteer

the Montreal Rifle Corps,

sending Captain Globinsky, with

his

Volunteer Militia to skirmish.

Colonel Maitland's brigade, consisting of the


treal

32nd and 83rd, with

the

Mon-

Cavalry, followed by Lieutenant-

colonel Wetherall's brigade (the 2nd


Battalion of the

Royal Montreal

Royal Regiment, the

Rifles,

and Clobinsky's

Volunteers) advanced to the attack, with

Major Jackson, and the Royal


under his orders.
Cirod,

who had

the chief

Artillery

command,

opened his fire from the houses of the


town, which was soon silenced, and he
fled; and Major Jackson, taking up a position in front of the fortified church and
houses, and the advanced parties of the

1838

Euslache, Lower Canada, after the battle

St.

Water-colour,

6x9 inches

32nd, 83rd, and

Corps having

Rifle

ed, whilst

Major Gugy, the provincial

cleared the houses and walls, he battered

aide-de-camp, received a severe wound

and adjoining buildings. The

engaged in a storming party; 1 1


were made but the number
of ki lied and wounded of the enemy was
never ascertained, but must have been
enormous. Amongst the killed was Dr. j.
O. Chenier, who was found dead in the

the church

church, crowded with people, was soon

rendered untenable; and a scene of


which may be readily

slaughter ensued

imagined,

when

it

is

known

that the

rebels were completely surrounded from


the able

and cool measures adopted by


The church

the Commander-in-chief.

and houses, including the presbytere or


priest's house, and the nunnery, and
those of Scott and Dr. Chenier, the rebel
leaders, were on fire, and those who
could not escape fell

a prey to the flames.

After an hour's firing, at

280 yards

dis-

volleys

of

whilst

prisoners

yard of the church.

F.

Peltier fled

with

Cirod.
Lieutenant-colonel Eden, Deputy Adjutant-general, Colonel

Quartermaster-general,

Gore, Deputy
the

personal

Majors Jackson and Macbean of


the Royal Artillery, and Captain Foster
staff.

of the

Royal Engineers, received the

was

most favourable mention of


in the despatch to the
Horseguards; and the Volunteers of
Montreal having taken the garrison duty
of that city, and thus enabled Sir John

necessarytoassaultandcarry thechurch
and presbytery by the bayonet.

Colborne toquell this rebellious district,


were most honourably noticed.

tance,

and

contmued

musketry from the Royals and Riflemen


in the neighbouring houses, and that owing to the determined resistance

there

and

In this

the

in the seignior's

rebellion

private killed,

made
it

of a

their services

- the most determined of

action

whole

house,

honour

-the troops lost 1


wound-

corporal and 7

[95

H BONNVCASTLE

Canada. As llWas,

Is,

And May Be

1852

Sunday, November

4,

LESPATRIOTES

1838

an odd thing, that last night when we


went to bed both Tina & said we thought
It's

somethingwas going to hapfjen Twice

awoke Edward, because we heard the


dogs barking & the Turkeys making a
noise About 1 o'clock a messenger
I

came

saying there was a disturbance

at

Chaleauguai & several British farmers


had tied from the Canadian rebels E. E.
Ellice] had hardly come to bed
when we thought we hearda/ia//o
heop)ened the window & listened but
all was still, & just as he was getting into

[Edward

again

bed a

yell like the Indian

close to the house,

war

& guns

cry, burst

fired at the

same moment struck the house, on all


sides, breaking the windows &c Edward
jumped/ntohisclothes, &drag'dTina&l
en chemise, without shoes or stockings

down stairs & put us thro' a trapdoor into


the cellar

on

all

The house was surrounded


Edward & MT Brown taken
and were carried off we knew

sides,

prisoners,

not where, leaving Tina

chemise,

in

&

alone, en

the middle of a group of the

most "Robesp/erre" looking

armed with guns, long

ruffians, all

knives,

and

pikes,

without a single creature

to

advise us,

every respectable person

in

the village

being taken prisoner

passed
of a

hand

in

hand,

in

a day

we

the midst

heap confusion, comforting each

other,

who

sitting

What

&

praying for protection to

orders

severe

trial

all

things well. But

The

Him

was

it

ruffian looking

men

coming in every now & then quite drunk

In

the evening the priest

came

to see

us,& wegot leave tocome tohis house


What a wretched day & yet how much
worse it might have been.

Wednesday, November 7, 1838


The whole house is surrounded by
Guards sketched some of them from
I

the

window picturesque

ruffians

KATHERINE JANE ELLICE

The

rebels at Beauharnois,

Lower Canada

1838
lANE ELLICE

Water-colour,

Diary

9b

9%

6V'2

inches

UPPER CANADA

when England

ternninated the Seven

transportation at the

mercy of the Ameri-

did not pursue an active

cans. This state of affairs motivated the

policy of settlement westof Montreal un-

construction of the Rideau Canal. The


British Parliament paid the bills and the

Years' War.

til

it

the Loyalists began pouring into British

North

America.

groups

Several

of

and disbanded regiments occupied the newly surveyed townships


Loyalists

forming the nucleus of the communities


of Brockville, Cornwall,

and

Kingston,

among others, lames Peachey's View of


the Loyalist encampment at )ohnston

built the canal between


Bytown on the Ottawa River, and Kingston on Lake Ontario. The officer-artists
who travelled along the canal were par-

Royal Engineers

Upper Canada to York and


began building the road network that is
the basis of Ontario's road system today,
he determined the pattern of growth for
capital of

decades to come. His Yonge Street connected with the Indian trails and portages
and continued to Lake Huron. George

Back travelledover this route on the way


the

Arctic,

passing

through

Fort

ticularly struck

to

neering feats

William, which sen'ed as a starting point

by the impressive engithat were necessary to con-

over what was to become the

struct the locks.

for the trip

Dawson Road

small indications of the feverish activity

UpperCanada took holdandbegan to


look settled by the 1840's, as Henry
lames Warre's sketches show. Land companies speculated and brought in im-

new

migrants. The shoreline communities of

To the west, the energetic Simcoe built

Lieutenant-

Cobourg, Port Hope, and


Toronto were jumping-off points for
settlers, such as Catherine Parr Traill and
her husband, who headed inland to take
up cheap land in the backwoods of Perth,
Peterborough, and Lindsay. The established community of Peterborough
attracted the attention of the artist Edwin

another road, which opened up the area

(1784) and the Ruins

at Fort

Frontenac

(1783), on the site ofwhatwasto become


the Loyalist

that took

town of Kingston, are but

place to create these

towns. Lord Simcoe, the

first

Governor of the new province of Upper


Canada, was sworn in at Kingston and
called the

first

the-Lake. This

legislature at Niagara-on-

town was

to

capital of the province until

was moved

to York,

remain the

796 when it

whose early begin-

nings Mrs. Hale depicted.

The close proximity of the aggressive


to the south after 1776 left
the settlements along the St. Lawrence
and the means of communication and

new republic

Trenton,

Whitefield in 1854 while he was touring


the country making his large lithographs
of the principal towns.

When

General Simcoe

97]

moved

the

to the heart of Rupert's

Land. Napier's views of FortWilliam

and

Slave Falls were taken on an expedition


to investigate the feasibility of this route.

now known

as

Western Ontario. Garri-

son towns, as depicted by Bainbrigge


and Warre, protected the population and

maintained order. The

last half

of the

nineteenth century was characterized by

waves of immigration which rapidly


filledupthe land contained by theshores
of Lakes Ontario, Erie, and Huron. The
settlement patterns established during
these years determined the face of the
future province of Ontario.

HENRY FRANCIS

SEAWAY COUNTRY

AINSLIE

bateau descending the Lachine Rapids


with the members of the 83rd Regiment
and the mascot, a bear
May 24, 1843

Water-colour,

The transport of merchandise, and other

time of performing which,

from the island of Montreal to


Kingston in Upper Canada, is, it hasbeen

twelve days. The wages of the pilot or

remarked, conducted by means of ba-

dollars.

articles,

amount

guide,

is

to twelve

from ten

to

or fourteen

wise kept
for

in

10x14

the service of government,

transporting

and

troops,

Inches

necessaries

stores

department; likewise

each extremity, and constructed of fir


planks. Each of these being about forty
leet in length, and six feet across the

Each bateau is supplied with a


mast and sail, a grappling iron, with
ropes, setting poles, and utensils for

cooking. The bateaux when loaded, take

tribes.

widest

contains twenty-

number, of from

number of

together, that the

teaux, or flat-bottomed boats, narrow at

part, generally

five barrels, or a

proportionate

balesof blankets, cloths, or linens, and

is

their

departure

ficulties,

pounds weight. Four men and a guide,


compose the number of hands allotted
tor working a bateau. These are supplied
with provisions, and with rum, and are

required

allowed from eight to eleven dollars


each, for the voyage to Kingston, and
from thencedown again to La Chine, the

fifty

La

Chine,

in

four, to eight or ten

crews may be enabled


each other, amid the dif-

to afford aid to

capable of conveying, nine thousand

from

and

laborious

in effecting this

exertions

voyage. About

bateaux are employed on

this route,

distributed

to

the

Indian

it is, during the sultry months of


summer, to struggle against the most
tremendous rapids. Besides these, near
four hundred men ascend in bark

canoes, by the grand river of the


taouais,

C HERIOT
like-

presents

In

cupation

ash.

bateaux are

articles of Euro-

There are thus engaged about


three hundred and fifty men, whose oc-

Joseph's

to thirty

the

for

engineer

pean manufacture, which are every year

and bring down for the objects of commerce which are conveyed up, wheat,
flour, salted provisions, peltry and pot-

From twenty

the

for

thence

on
to

direct

in

Lake

the

new

Ou-

course to Saint

Huron, and from


establishment on

Lake Superior, called Kamanastigua.


Travels,

Through the Canadas

807

srAWAV COUNTRY

WILLIAM ROEBUCK

The lock on

the

Water-colour,

The cascades are about two miles in


length, and flow among three different
islands. The rapidity and force of the
stream, arising from the greatdeclivity of
its bed, and the numberof rocks and cavities which it contains, causes it to break
into masses of while foam, moving in a
direction the reverse of that of waves
produced in a troubled ocean, by the
agency of storms. They curl their resplendent tops, towards the quarter from
whence they are impel led. The mind of a

stranger

is

Cascade Rapids on the


1

Vi

filled

St.

Lawrence

with admiration, on

and finest
weather, all the noise, effect, and agitation, which the most violent conflict
between the winds and waters is capable
beholding,

in

the calmest

of exhibiting.
In

a branch of these cascades, near the

locks

on

River,

Lower Canada

the western shore, several ba-

conduct them. Somewhat higher up, on


the same coast of the river, and not far
from the land, is the Split Rock, close to
which, the boats pass, in descending.
The current sweeps along the side of this
rock, and great attention in steering is
required, for, on a too near approach, the
bateau would be subject to the danger of

teaux, loaded with soldiers belonging to

being

army under the command of the late


Lord Amherst, were lost in 760, through
ignoranceofthe pilots whoundertook to

C HERIOT
Travels Through the Canada^

lost.

the

99

1820

7 inches

We now

SEAWAY COUNTRY

entered the Cornwall Canal,

which cost the Government 60,000; it


is eleven and a half miles long, and has
seven locks. They are worth examining
from their size and the solidity of their
construction. Close to the canal

town of Cornwall,

a place of

is

some

the

size,

with a population of about two thousand.

Opposite Cornwall,
bank,

on the south

the village of St. Regis, inhabited

is

by Iroquois Indians. Here the boundary-

between Lower Canada and the

line

New

of

State

Lawrence.

York

Thus

upwards on the

the

left

strikes

the

territory

hand

is

St.

going

that of the

United States, while that on the right is of


the Province of Upper or Western

Canada.

way

in which one literLawrence by means


of these canals. The huge vessel glides
into a space between two stone walls,
with a gate at the farther end a gate is
closed behind her, the water which
comes from above is slowly let into the
space, and as gradually she rises a new
It is

a curious

ally steps

up the

country

seen from her deck. The front

gate

is

St.

then open, and she having

is

at-

tained an upper level even with another

space, the same process

is repeated; or, if
only one lock at that place, she
paddles on along the canal, splashing

there

is

with her paddle-wheels the muzzles of


the sage old cows, who look calmly up at
her as they crop the grass

in the green
through which she passes, or putting to flight herds of frisky youngcolts, or
innocent lambs, who cannot make out,

fields

for

their

lives,

monster has got

what

strange

into their nursery.

sure, this process of

noisy

To be

mounting locks

is

somewhat tedious after the novelty of the


thmg has worn off; butthen again, as one

may be walking

about, or eating, or

sleeping, or reading, or drawing, or talking,

it is

one's

amusement

own fault one cannot find


if

Thus our
huge steamer was carried up a hill some
hundred feet in height without any further manual exertion than that employed
by the old lock-keepers in turning the
inside the vessel.

windlasses to open the gates and

let in

They even do not hurry themselves, and


was amused by seeing a
fellow munching an apple as he slowly
the water.

turned hjs winch.

U H C KINGSTON
Western Wanderings

856

100

H.S.

The Long
1849

SEAWAY COUNTRY

and the canal on the

Saull

Water-colour,

3Vi x 19'/4 inches

101

St.

Lawrence River near Cornwall, Canada West

many

After so

[legal] authorities directly

supporting the Case of the American


Loyalists,

prove the

little

more need be said to


and justice of their
nation. They were, and

legality

claim upon the

yet are as perfectly subjects of the British

man

London or Middlesex. They were as much bound by all the


State, as

any

in

obligationsand duties of the society, and

consequently as

much

entitled to the

protection and justice of the State; and


therefore, the Crown can have

no greater

right to sacrifice their property to the

public safety, than that of any other sub-

SEAWAY COUNTRY

ject, without compensation. They have


been called on by their Sovereign, when
surrounded by tumult and rebellion, to
defend the Supreme Rights of the Nation,
and to assist in suppressing a rebellion,
which aimed at their destruction. They
have received from the highest authority
the most solemn assurances of protection, and even reward, for their "meritorious services. "These CaWi.andlheie
Assurances, have been repeated again
and again, during the times of the greatest danger, and even after many hundred
had fallen victims to the unrelenting

account but
their

that of their allegiance to

Sovereign,

and

fidelity

New Settlement on the banks of the St.


Water-colour, SVb X 3% inches

of the Loyalists at lohnston, a

The village of Johnstown, which is near a


mile in length, and designed to extend a
mile in breadth, is placed in the township
of Edwardsburg. From hence, decked
vessels of considerable burthen

may be

navigated to Kingston, from thence to


Niagara, or to any part of Lake Ontario.
The islands opposite to this township are
numerous; the principal are Hospital
island, and Isle du Forte Levy, where the
French formerly had a small garrison, to

defend the lower settlements, from the irruptions of the Iroquois. La Calotte
part of the great river, in

rent flows with

the

waters

much

are,

in

which

C HERIOT
Canadas

Travels Through the

102

rapidity, although

very few

places,

broken.

is

the cur-

807

to

their

fellow-subjects in Great Britain. They

have, notwithstanding those cruelties,

every hazard, and in the face of the


most imminent danger, obeyed those
calls, and generously stept forth in deat

fence of the Supreme Authority of the


State.

ANONYMOUS
The Case and Claim of the American toyalisis Impartiaity Staled and Considered
783
1

)AMES PEACHEY
Encampment

on no other

cruelties of the Rebel States,

Lawrence River

)une6, 1784

We saw

little in

interest or

breakfast

the

please.

town of Prescott

to

After an excellent

we embarked on

board the

Great

steamer we had
and here we were joined by our

new friends,

in

steam-boat on the waters of the

a
St.

Lawrence. This vessel was one of the


finest

we had

yet observed

on our

route.

was called the "Great Britain," was


worked by very fine engines, and reIt

to

C r TRAlll

The Backwoods of Canada

our great satisfaction.

^^^^^^^^

HENRY FRANCIS AINSLIE

once more embarked

Britain, the finest

yet seen,

tfhr^-^

We now

SEAWAY COUNTRY

The steamer Great

Britain, the largest vessel

Water-colour. 9 x

sembled a floating village


and was so remarkably fast
that

our night

ceptible.
night; but

We

transit
left

was

in its extent,
in its

motion,

scarcely per-

Prescott before mid-

having the wind ahead, and a

strong current to oppose,

on Lake Ontario

1839

2 Vz inches

103 1

we made

but

way; and when morning broke,


full leisure to gaze upon
the majestic flood and its beautiful
little

had, therefore,

shores.
R

H BONNYCASTIE

The Canadas

in

184

SEAWAY COUNTRY

On Friday evening, the expedition under

in the wall.

Dundas landed near the Windmill


below Prescott. He took up a position on
a risingground, about 400 yards from the
Houses and Mill occupied by the

wearing away. Col.

Brigands. Major MacBean R.a. placed


two 18 Pounders advantageously in the
field, the one to batter the Houses and the
other on the left to act against the Mill.
The Brigands not venturing out of the
bui Idi ngs, though they kept up a constant
fire. Major MacBean opened his heavy
guns upon the Buildings with great effect. The masonry of the Windmill, how-

supported by

Col.

was so strong, that but ittle impreswas made against it. Captain Sandom, R.N., with two Gun Boats and a
Steamboat, took up a position in the
River below the Mill, which he cannonaded with two 1 8 Pounders, but

It

now late and day light

being

Dundas moved

closer to the buildings, the Militia acting

on both

and so posted as

flanks,

to

prevent the escape of the Brigands, and

company

of the 93rd

Highlanders, under Major Arthur, on

march from Cornwall, who joined just as


Dundas was taking up his position.
A fire of Musketry was opened by the
Brigands from the House, which was
quickly replied toby our gallant fellows,
and a Howitzer being moved down to the
left, opened upon the building, which
Col.

now

Mill being

and

gained, were set

fire to

been displayed
from the Mill, Col. Dundas, with that
humanity always a prominent attribute
of the truly brave, accepted an uncondia white flag having

when eighty-seven pris-

tional surrender,

oners were marched out of the Mill, and

more wounded, subsequently

sixteen

carried out.

Ten

powder and

barrels of

several

stands of arms and ten thousand rounds


of ball cartridge were found in the mill.

Three pieces of
placed

which had been

artillery

in front of

the door of the mill on a

were

the Piratesevacuatedunder cover of the

battery constructed of loose stones,

sion

darkness, and concealed themselves in

also captured. All the houses in the pos-

could not succeed

Brushwood on the bank behind the


where they were subsequentlycaptured by the Militia, among whom was
one of the leaders, a Pole, named Van
Schultz. The Buildings on the left of the

Chronicle and Gazette

FortWellington Stands

cupine." The earthworks enclose a con-

without, however, doing

of the

and are very wide, having broad sloping roads on each side to
enable troops to quickly gain the summit, transport cannon, &c. In the old
days four pieces of artillery were mounted at the corners of theembankment, but
only the iron runways are to be seen now.
The fort building, or block-house as it

age."

ever,

in effecting a

breach

session of the brigands were set

Mill,

except the

at theeastern end
town and, viewed from a distance
westward, seems to block King street, the
highway (the King's Highway as it was
wont to be called) taking a bend towards
the river at this point. The fort was built
during the war of 1812, apparently to
hold in check the Americans who were
ever on the look-out to pounce upon
reinforcements and supplies for the British military points above. The original
building was of timber; this was replaced

tended to be used

by the present stone erection in 1837-8.


It isa substantial square buildingsituated
in the centre of an earthwork enclosure.

and ammunition; the upper stories are


fitted up as barracks. The top storey is of
heavy timber, with an over-hangingcov-

The entrance to the latter is through a


massive gateway on the north side. From
this entrance a wide dyke runs either
way. On the south-front there is an earth-

ered gallery runningentirely round. This

covered stone sally-port extending


the dyke.

Its

into

sides are pierced with loop-

siderable space

was
the

originally called, has several floors,

first comprising

Some

distance beyond

in the ground close together, and


from the steep sides of the earthworks

stuck

similar poles, with pointed ends, stick

out "like quills upon the

fretful

por-

much damwould no doubt have been a

stronghold

the days of attacks by Indi-

in

ans, but a very few years after

must have been plain


that to coop troops up
it

it

was built

to military
in

men

such a place

would be to ensure their certain destruction. The fort is commanded by high


groundin the rear, from whence it would
be easy to carry away the wooden roof
and complete the work of destruction by
dropping a few shells within the walls
and enclosure. Ifcaptured by an enemy it
might be used
considering

to destroy the

town. So,

things, the order for

all

its

dismantlement was a wise one. The

pierced with numerous win-

Royal Canadian Regiment was quartered here for some time. Within the lines

tin. As a military work the fort


can hardly be regarded as a success. His-

with bright

tory fails to

When

a tall fence of thick poles

It

Novemt^er 17, 1838

loopholes. The roof iscovered

should a storming party attempt to scale

is

in-

arms

duringthenightby a company of Militia.


KINGSTON

is

gallery

wherein

the walls there

vaulted chambers

for the storage of

mill,

dows and

holes to be used for clearing the dyke


the earthworks.

on fire,
which was occupied

the

its

record a single instance

was demonstrated.

utility

1813 Wilkinson desired to get


past Prescott he simply had to land his
troops on the American shore and march
them down a mile or so; the boats being
floated down by a few men at night. We
are told that "an active bombardment
was kept up on them the whole night
in

Upper Canada. The

ABOVE

Prescott,

HENRY FRANCIS AINSLIE

Water-colour, 9 x 12'/2 inches

ANONYMOUS

militia

encampment

Water-colour, 9V4 x

at

site of the

the fort

necessary buildings, of-

all

guard-room, &c., and

itself is in

During

Canada

Lord

place at the

fort.

present assured
real

good

repair.

Lisgar's

sham

fight

An old

me

sojourn

sham

a very spirited

fight

soldier who

that

it

was

in

took

was

the most

he ever took part

in.

The

"garrison" at present consists of one

man,

Sergt. Press,aveteranartilleryman.

Canadian

"Battle of the

Illustrated

Windmill"

FortWellington, Prescott, Ontario

316 inches

104

there are

ficers' quarters,

ca.

News

1839

1867

January 5,

878

SE^^vAv

COUNTRY

[105

sf^vv^v( ouNTRV

BROCKVILLE

The

Town of the )ohnstown

District

trict, in

the

St.

Lawrence,

Population, 2111.

Dis-

the county of Leeds, situated

on

Post Office, post every day.

miles east

fifty-six

The followinggovernment and

from Kingston; the eastern road passing


through

it.

was

It

laid

out

in

802, and

is

district

offices are kept in Brockville: ludge of

handsome

DistrictCourt, Sheriff, Treasurer, Clerk of

town,mostofthehouse5andotherbuild-

Peace, Registrar of County of Leeds, do.


of Surrogate Court, Collector of Cus-

now

incorporated. This

is

ings being constructed of stone,

many of

which have cut fronts. Being situated on


a bed of lime stone, this material is found
the cheapest that can be used for building, and its general adoption gives the
town a very substantial appearance.
Granite

tendent of Schools, Clerk of District


Court, District Clerk, Deputy Clerk of

Crown.

work is not at present


house and jail is a hand-

but being harderto

The court
some stone building. There
used.

churches and chapels,

viz..

are

six

Episcopal,

Catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist, Bap-

and Congregational,

all

of which are

of stone. During the season, the steam-

boats call here regularly, on their passages to and from Montreal and King-

A road is constructed from this


place to Perth, the capital of the Balhurst

ston.

which is about 40 miles northwest. Two newspapers are published


here weekly, the "Statesman," and the

and Trades Three phyand surgeons, seven lawyers,

Professions

also to be obtained in the

is

immediate neighbourhood of the town,

tist

toms, Inspector of Licenses, Superin-

sicians

one

eighteen stores, four tan-

grist mill,

two asheries, one bookseller, one


brewery, one foundry, two printers, two
saw mills, three chemists and druggists,
neries,

waggon makers,

ten taverns, four

smiths,

four

two guntwo watchmakers, two saddlers,

blacksmiths,

two

six tailors, eight

tinsmiths,

shoemakers, three cabi-

two hatters,
two bank
agencies "Montreal," and "Commernet makers, six groceries,

four bakers, three painters,

cial."

District,

"Brockville Recorder."
rather roc k, n the
i

the town,

is

tioned a few

St.

On an

island, or

Forwarders and Commission Merchants. Sanderson & Murray, H. & S.


Jones.

Lawrence, opposite

blockhouse, where are

Andrew N. Buell.
Pnnc/pa/ Tavern. "Wilson's."
/.and Agent.

sta-

rifles.

W
Smith's

H.SMITH

Camdian

Gazetteer

I
ROBERT ACKERMANN
The Court House and jail on the
north side of Court House Square,
ca. 1850
Brockville, Canada West
Water-colour,

106

S'A x 20'/2 inches

SEAWAY COUNTR'i

{107

SEAWAY COUNTR'i

HENRY FRANCIS
Gananoque

Mills,

AINSLIE

1839

Upper Canada

Water-colour, 9 x

2'/2

inches

Canmouth
same name, where some

description, foral the variousoperations

of the steam-vessels take in fuel, and

is set in motion by the falling waters of the


CananoquI, and is the property of the

A tew

miles from

Kingston,

anoqui, a small village


of a river ot the

where

there

is

now

at

is

of reducing grain to

the

its

different condi-

tionsof use and food. This establishment

established a set of

which are,
Canada, as
well as the best conducted. was indeed
surprised, on a subsequent visit to this

who

mills, principally for flour,

Messrs. M'Donell,

perhaps, the most valuable

obliging to strangers, and allow a free

in

inspection of the various buildings and

machinery.

reared, as

it

were,

in the

bosom

markets, and

of

most expensive and complicated

R. H.

is,

in

in the

flour

is

Canadian

the finer qualities,

quite as good as any manufactured either

the forest, and possessing machinery of


the

The Cananoqui

deservedly celebrated

interestingspot, to see such an establish-

ment

are extremely

in the

United

BONNYCASTLE

The Canadas

in

108

184

1841

States, or in

Great

Britain.

KINGSTON -GUARDIAN OF THE LAKES

lAMESPEACHEY
The

ruins of Fort Frontenac

Water-colour,

June 1783

2% X 20'/! inches

an ancient settlement. It was


Cataraqui, and was established by French missionaries, as a
post amongst the Iroquois. Father Henes-

strengthened and enlarged to the

[Hennepin] gives a short account of


its foundation, and informs us that it was
soondiscovered to be so advantageous a

the action of the water

situation for the command of the interior,

nate adventures in discovering the Mis-

Kingston

first

is

called

sin

cir-

cumference of three hundred and sixty


toises, and adorned with freestone,
which they found naturally polished by

upon

raised from the

shown

whose

as a curiosity.

Frontenae, of course,

hands of the
unfortu-

their schcwners was


bottom of the lake, and

one of

years ago

the brink of

Lake Ontario, or Frontenae.


La Calle [La Salle],

tablishment at Frontenae; and a tew

fell

place of the greatest importance

[Frontenac] then governor-general of

complete.

sions of the Iroquois,

and to interrupt the


on between those powerful Indians and the inhabitants of New
York and the Hollanders, who had just
settled a new colony; and so important

site

is

fur trade carried

still

remained,

and a triangular
building, which surrounded one of the

nearly half that distance, and

did Fort Frontenae appear in the eyes of

bastions.

was

the

French,

that

It

was

speedily

sissippi are well

it

Henessin's account of

not the most intelligible; but there

work extant,
in

its

in

to

1830,enough of theold

show

its

former strength,

the shape of a tower

The French had also a small naval

109

es-

in L)p-

Canada; and the name was again


changed to Kingston. From 1 784 to the
present time, such has been its exten-

Canada, as a bulwark against the excur-

with four bastions,

the

p)er

known, was the commander under whose directions this fort


took two years to
was finished, and

that a large fort,

erected by order of Count Frontenae,

into

and soon became a

British,

sion, that

it

than a mile

now presents
in length,

of Lake Ontario, and the


rapid

a front of

somewhat more

bank of the Great Cataraqui

whilst

its

more

alongthe low shore


River;

extent towards the country


is

year gaining on the fields and woods.


M BONNNCASTlt

TheCanadasinl84l

Ml

is

every

KINGSTON'

-GUARDIAN OF THE LAKES

HENRY HICGINS DONATUS O'BRIEN

The bay adjoining to Kingston affords


good anchorage, and is the safest and
most commodious harbour on all Lake
Ontario, The bay of Great Sodus, on the
south side of the lake, and that of Toronto, situated on the north side of the lake,
nearly in the same meridian with

Henry and Point Frederick from the

Point

commerce between
and

miles over a turnpike,as they called it-

were

Corduroy, however to the southern

Kingston, for

side of the island, or that which faces the


American shore. The ferry-boat had
been taken over the water in quest of a
doctor.
don't know a more hopeless
predicament tor a traveller, or one where

we

left

layingupallthe vessels of war, one alone

excepted.
1

WELD

Travels

Upper Canada

the United States

his Britannic Majesty, orders

issued, shortly after

infantry barracks at Kingston,

Through the

the Provinces of

Niagara, are said to be the next best to

States of

North America and

Upper and Lower Canada

799

he

feels

resources so completely

his

that of Kingston; but the entrance into

exhausted, and sometimes also his pa-

each of them is obstructed by sand


banks, which in rough weather cannot
be crossed without imminent danger in
vessels drawing more than five orsix feet

tience, than at a ferry

water.

On

the borders of the bay at

Kingston there

is

another which

is

a King's

dock

of the British vessels of burthen

Ontario have been

and
Most

yard,

private property.

on Lake

built at these yards.

Belonging to his Majesty there were on


Lake Ontario,

when we

crossed

it,

three

vessels of about

two hundred tons each,

carrying from

eight

to

twelve

guns,

however, were not in commission, but laid up


in Niagara River; and in consequence of
the ratification of the treaty of amity and
besides several gun boats; the

last,

boat.

When

where there

did get across at

last,

no
had

is
I

the mortification to learn that the stage


After visiting the English dock-yard at

where there were two first-rate


line-of-battle ships on the stocks, and
Kingston,

several

frigates

launching,

felt

nearly

ready

for

anxious to take a look at

American naval
end
of Lake Ontario. Accordingly, on the
morning of the 6th of August, crossed
Sackett's Harbour, the
station,

which

lies

also at the eastern

the

northern branch of the River

St.

Lawrence in a four-oared gig to Long


Island, which lies nearly in the middle of
this immense stream. Here
got a
waggon, and was rattled for about seven
I

no

had just started.


The waves from Lake Ontario were
rolling into Sackett's Harbour quite in
oceanic style, and had the discomfort of
gettingsoundly ducked in crossingto the
navy-yard. had plenty of daylight, howI

examining at leisure the large


three-decked ship which is on the stocks
there. It is said that she was built in thirtyone days from the time the first tree was
cutdown; and met an American gentleman on the spot, who told me he had
been present at the time when this singular operation was accomplished. An imever, for

KINGSTON

GUARDIAN Of THE LAKrS

*^-^*^(ifNm^^-Pr

ca.

Water-colour, bVi x 24 inches

1825

mense number ot shipbuilders, it seems,


expert workmen, were sentfrom New
York, and other seaport towns. These
were assisted by an unlimited number of

On nearing the harbour, the first object is


modern

which

on board, ready for action. The


treaty of Ghent put a stop to these proceedings; and as it was stipulated by an
sails

article

in

thai instrument that neither

party should have a force

on

the lakes,

pect.

fortification

a very pleasing scene.

On a verdant slope
a

beautiful

lake, stands

the garrison hospital, an extremely neat

building of dark

blue stone,

with

of amusing the perennial


crowds of Cockney tourists, who escape
in autumn from the Malaria of the
southern and middle states, and fill up
the time by taking the wel l-beaten round
of the Falls, the Lakes, and the Springs of

and ample verandah in


front, under which, in the hottest summer days, the patients can walk and enjoy the air. Such evident attention as is
manifested by the British Government
on all occasions, and in every corner of
the globe, towards the well-being and
comfortofthose who protect and uphold
the honour of their country, cannot fail to

Saratoga.

strike

these great ships, both at Sackett's

Kingston, have

end,

in

come

to

and

at

serve no further

the meantime, than the innocent

purpose

shining

tin roof,

foreigner

with

the

in

the distance; the

Every thing

now

bears a military as-

The huge ships, the powder magazines, the forts and batteries, the sentries
passing their rounds, a fine range of

storehouses built of a beautiful white

row of neat barracks for


theemploy of the navy, are
objects concentrated on a spot admirably chosen for the defence of the harbour, and serving as a key to the great
stone, and a long
the persons in

inland seas of the interior.

liveliest

impression.
Travels in

1828

North America

182')

irt

the Years 1827 arid

seen

Island, and commanding


view of the opening of the

labouring hands, teams of oxen, horses,

crowns the promontory of Point Henry,


about 00 feet above the level of the lake,
and commanding an exceedingly narrowentrance between Cedar Island and
Hamilton Cove. Here the eye is struck by

and so on. In a couple of weeks


more, he told me, she might have been
launched, and all her guns, masts and

is

facing the picturesque rocks of Cedar

the strong

carts,

expands. The opening of the lake

town of Kingston
begins to show itself; and the vessel
Navy Bay and Point
glides
past
Frederick, between which the eye rested, in days of yore, on several enormous
hulls of first-rate men-of-war and frigates, with the customary appendages of
a large royal dock and ordnance wharf.

all

Passing the hospital and the guns of


Fort

Henry, a noble prospect suddenly

111

8 H BONNYCASTlt

The Cartadas

ir}

1841

1841

HARRIET CARTVVRIGHT

Kingston
trade,

is

and

a place of very considerable


is

it

consequently increasing

most rapidly in size. All the goods


brought up the St. Lawrence for the supplyof the uppercountry are heredeposited in stores, preparatory to their being
shipped on board vessels suitable to the
navigation of the lake; and the furs from
the various posts on the nearer lakes are
here kewise col lected together, n order
to be laden on board bateaux, and sent
down the St. Lawrence. Some furs are
brought in immediately to the town by
I i

who

hunt

KINCSTON-CUARDIANOFTHELAKES

Kingston,

Upper Canada

Water-colour,

1832

Kingston, the largest and most consider-

Kingston,

able town

retained

Upper Canada, though not


the seat of government, opens with a fine
effect as you pass the Fort and enter the
Bay... The town of Kingston is well
laidout, with some handsome churches,
&c. and many excellent private manin

with
streets

time to attend service

reached town
in

in

the Episcopal

Church. Itwas pleasingagain to listen


the peal of the organ, and the solemn

other.

but the ascent

to

begin to

li-

scantily

turgy of our church, in a land yet but half

portion of the

on

St.

large.
at

Lawrence, but the quantity

is

not

The principal merchants resident

Kingston

tablished

are

houses

partners
at

of old

Montreal

es-

and

Quebec. Astranger,especiallyifa British


subject, is sure to meet with a most hospitable and friendly reception from

place. Kingston

which
in a

it

is

prosperous

is

town

is

soil.

state.

station.

It

is

also a military

The population,

above three thousand

souls.

them, as he passes through the place.


I.WELD

A,

Travels Through the Stales of North

the Provinces ol

America and

Upper and Lower Canada

1799

FERCUSSON

Practical

Canada

Notes

Made

During

1831

Tour

in

R H,

BONNYCASTLE

The Canadas

112 }

are but

The superior

which is singueven and level, and extends a long


way towards the woods.
larly

place of trade, for

towards the

beautifully laid out

a vast plateau of rock,

well situate, and appears to be

and naval
believe,

is

principal

width, and

show themselves, and


covered with

emerged from a savage state; and we had


a mostexcellent sermon from Mr. C, the
worthy and exemplary clergyman of the

the

in

newer part is rather sudden, along the


edge of the limestone rocks, which then

the neighbour-

in

the

The lower part of the town, near


and river, is very level and con-

ingcountry, and along the upper parts of

the Indians,

regularity,

runningtowards the cardinal points, and


at right angles to each

venient;

we

well have

consequently

quarters in Meyers' Hotel wereextreme-

comfortable, and

just as

Indianappellation, islaid out

being sixty-six feet

the lake

ly

x9'/4 inches

which might

its

some

Our

sions, substantially built of stone.

b%

in

1841

1841

RIDEAUCANAl

PHILIP

IN

DEFENCE OF A COLONY

)OHN BAINBRIGGE

Kingston Mills Locks on the Rideau Canal

Water-colour, 7 x lOVj inches

Thismilitarycanal will require a consid-

event of

erable sum of money; but probably there

which

never was any expense better bestowed.

in

Forthecostoftransportingordnanceand

bered that

other stores by the direct route of the

ways

St.

in

my

relinquish

without
is

we

to assist the

It

Canadians

in

defend-

load us with the responsibility of future


disasters.

Our

present duty

is

most clear

and though itsexecution be somewhat


costly,

its

imperative character

is

not al-

national

Canal, our fellow-countrymen the Cana-

advance, as it will be

risk

of

the perfect security

it

fords of being able to send troops


stores

must be rememare pledged in a thousand

defensive warfare.

part, at this stage of the business, will

without the completion of the Rideau

opinion,

dishonour,

with that rapidity

constitutes the chief desideratum

however, and one


we cannot

alone will repay the whole outlay. The

which,

hostilities,

1841

{detail!

on that account. There can be no


doubt as to what we ought to do, were a
war to break out to-morrow. But a
moment's reflection will show, that the
obligation is equally binding upon us in

Lawrence, up the rapids, is so enormous,


that the saving of a few years on this item
essential advantage,

backwards and forwards,

in

af-

and
the

ing their country; and, as long as they

perform their part of the international


to shrinkfrom no

contract,we are bound

means

of rendering

them secure. But

dians can feel none of that security which

our superior means enable us

to give

them. Any hesitation, therefore, on our

113

tered

in that

contingency.

B HAIL

Travels in North

1828

1829

America

in the Years

1827 and

RIDEAU CANAL - IN DEFENCE OF A COLONY

PHILIP

lOHN BAINBRICCE

Jones Falls on the Rideau Canal, Upper Canada

1838

Water-colour, 6 x 8V2 inches

The other prominent works on


are. Brewer's

and

the canal

stone masonry, upon inverted archwork,

Ontario, and thus avoidmg the LJniled

LowerMills Lock, ten miles

and although with such extraordinary


lifts, have hitherto suffered no derangement, and answer perfectly.

States frontier.

a halt; Brewer's

Upper

Mills,

two
and

one mile and three quarters;


Jone's Falls, eleven miles. Here the scenery is very wild and striking, and the
works are extremely grand, there being a
dam sixty-one feet high, 130 yards
broad, sixty feet wide at bottom and
twelvefeetattop, built of sandstone, and
backed with clay and rock, so that the
base and rock are supposed to be
between three and four hundred feet.
locks,

R H,

In

withmusquetoes; there was no casing to


the hot funnel of the steamer, which also
added to our discomfort. Itwas painful to
witness the hundreds of acres, which had
unavoidably been drowned by reason of
the dams, and to see the dead trees of the
forest standing, with their grey trunks and

BONNVCASTLE

The Canadas

in

1841

1841

the beginningof |une,

We found the Rideau a hot ditch at this


season, and beginning to be infested

we embarked in

leafless

boughs,

like

ghosts

in

the water.

the solid granite; a single lock of fifteen

the 14th Regiment,

two inches lift, leads into a natural


basin, which connects it with three other
combined locks, two having fifteen feet
lift each, and the other thirteen. These

gation of the Rideau Canal,

Sometimes we navigated lakes, and in


the even mg had an opportunity of fishing
forbass, orpaddlingin acanoe; "atrick"
first acquired among the Burma ns ot the

nectsby

Irrawaddy.

There

is

waste weir cut

fifteen feet into

feet

splendid locks are built of solid sand-

the small steamer, 'Otter,' towing barges

containingthe

men oflhe detachment of

a series

and began the naviwhich conof locks and dams, of

workmanship (and
which cost upwards of a million) the
waters of the Ottawa with those of Lake
most

expensive

114

E,

ALEXANDER

L'Acadie

1849

RIDE

AUCA\M^ IN

DEFENCE OF A COLOW

'^

GEORGE SETON

The 'drowned

land'

Water-colour, b'A x

It

may now however experience a

llon

the

t'rom

Rideau

Canal

re-ac-

com-

municating with the lake here, and be


its former prosperity.

again restored to

This canal continues

Bay

until

mills, five

it

up the

reaches the

first

inlet of the

locks at the

miles distant; the masonry and

whole workmanshipconnected with


them are much superior to those upon
the

Chesapeake and Ohio Canals.


The total numberof locks between Kingston and Bytown, upon the Ottawa
the Erie or

136 miles

River,

length about
1

6 or

distant,

is

47; their

40, breadth 33, and depth

Dams, upon a very extenhave been had recourse to

7 feet.

sive scale,

throughout the line of canal, instead of


excavations as

in

England.

Where such

on

the Rideau Canal,

9%

Upper Canada

862

inches

works have been thrown across marshes,

tation of military stores

or the Rideau River,

the lower to the upper province, without

in

order to swell the

Rapids and form a navigable stream, so


vast an extent of stagnant water (in

place
to

0,000 acres) has been created as

render the settlements

exceedingly unhealthy.
the

one

workmen

at the mills

in the vicinity

saw many of
who were per-

helpless from the marsh fever they


had caught. These large inundations,
however, in a few years will destroy the
drowned forest, and a quantity of valuable land may then be reclaimed by
small embankments. The whole work
was completed at an expense to the Imperial Government of 700,000. In the
fec tly

event of war with our neighbours,


Ix'

found invaluable

115

for the

it

will

transpor-

and troops from

being subject as heretofore to captures

from the American force upon the

St.

Lawrence, or to running the gauntlet of


the batteries

upon

their

bank of the

Like the Erie, in the Stale of

river.

New York,

it

encourage settlers along the


whole line, as an outlet is now opened for
the produce of their farms. Two steamers
were at this time continually running
between the Ottawa and Ontario, and
the traffic of heavy boats also appeared
will also

considerable.

COKE

A Subaltern's

Furlough

1833

HENRY FRANCIS AINSLIE

RIDEAU CANAL -IN DEFENCE OF A COLONY

Entrance to the Rideau Canal at Bytown, Upper Canada

1839

Water-colour, 6 x ffh inches

The

mass

great

work

of

is

now

approachecJ, which forms the exitus of


the canal.
a

mile,

traveller;

A deep cut of three quarters of


commands notice from the
average depth

its

is

twenty-five

and it was executed with infinite trouble and labour. A


basin surrounded by an embankment,
feet,

through

stiff

clay,

with flood-gates

drain

to

the

canal,

The

tourist

now arrived at the Sap-

has

and

75 53' west longitude.

continually subject to be torn asunder

Ifever any

man deserved to be immortal-

tem of locks, eight

John By. Difficulties which no one can

adequately described

They have

a total

lift

in a

small space.

of eighty-one feet

from the surface of the lowest summer


level of the

Ottawa, and are

durable limestone

hewn

built of a

out of the sur-

rounding rocks, and cemented with an


excellent material discovered on the opposite shores of the Great River,

has been extensively used on the


line,

and

cement.

is

known by

the

name

which
whole

of Hull

indeed the only


the

frail

best, or

mode of progress, was in

bark canoe of the Indian, and


that

dangerous vehicle was


in

march over the sullen waters by the


submerged trees.
With a department to form, civil engineers to make, workmen to advise and
instruct. Colonel By took charge of this
important national work, in September
826, with a view of forming a military
winter communication from the Ottawa
its

ized in this utilitarian age,

number, cannot be

marshes where the

where even

at

merits notice; and the stupendous sysin

paradise of water-snakes and reptiles, of

mud and

By-Town, which is
328 miles distant from Toronto, 157V2
from Kingston by the old route, 127V2
by the new, in 45 24' north latitude,
pers' Bridge,

form any idea

of,

it

was Colonel

excepting those

who

knew

him well and watched his


progress, were continually in his way;
and although the expenditure he made
mayappearenormous,yet itis tobe con-

to

Lake Ontario, so as

rapids of the

ecuted, perhaps one of the finest works of

sity of transporting stores

in

very short time,

and

flood,

was executed in a
a country where forest

the world,
in

silence

in a

country

the seat of pestilential fever and ague, the

line

St.

exposed,

in

116

H BONNYCASTLE

The Canadds

in

of the

and troops by a

the greatest part of

length, to an enterprizing

and shadow, had

before reigned undisturbed;

avoid the

Lawrence, and the neces-

sidered, that the splendid canal he ex-

the kind

to

tedious, dangerous navigation

1841

enemy.

its

HENRY FRANCIS AINSLIE

Chaudiere

8YTOWN

Falls

on

Water<olour, 9 x

One

the
1

NATIONS CAPITAL

Ottawa River

at

which

was, ot course,

When

Colonel By was looking out

most picturesque, wild, and


Canada, is that called the
Chaudiere,orCauldron,ot theOttawa.lt
is situated at By-Town. The River Ot-

sheerdescent,

tawa, or the Great River, as

called,

rope-bridge, mixed with chain-cables,

price that he

divided the ancient province of Lower

upon which a series of trestles was


placed, and on these the timber arch was
gradually and successfully laid, a large

fixed

ol the

stormy

tails in

it

is

Canada from its more youthful sister; and


here, Colonel By, with his usual energy,
undertook to connect the flourishing set-

tlements of Hull, by a series of bridges,

By-Town,

with

in

order

supplies of materials

and

to

open up

to

obtain

and provisions,

a fertile tract of country.

As the falls are divided by rocky islets,


and are only broad at one spot. Colonel
By formed a series of stone and simple

wooden

bridges, connecting the shores

he came to the great


space immediately in front of the
Cauldron, over which he threw an arch

and

islets,

until

of limber-work
feet in

in

it

vain to look for any support from below,

by

piles,

or other substantial contriv-

ances. The

mode he

took was, to

barge having been, with

make a

infinite labour,

moored in the middle of the


torrent, upon which a very strong trestle
was fixed, to secure the crown of the arch
previously

site for his future city

establishing

it

on Philemon Wright's

property, but the old

on

man asked so high a

abandoned

down

the

span. This

chasm

is

in front

of a

situation,

Province.

falls,

struck the barge, with such force, that the


bridge, then nearly complete, gave way,

into the roaring torrent.

WHG

H BONNVCASTIE

The Canadas

in

W-il

117

KINGSTON

Western Wanderings

1841

if

and
not

and Upper
Canada gained a city which would
otherwise have belonged to the Lower
so convenient,

two hundred and twelve

roaring, turbulent cataract, thirty feet in

the idea,

the present far grander,

on the Ottawa, and masses

a heavy ficxjd

of ice having floated

for a

he contemplated

from sinking during the formation of the


roadway and work.
The spring of 1 828 was remarkable for

and sank

1839

Bytown, Upper Canada, with the collapsed bridge

2V2 inches

1856

RYTOVVN

NATIONS

<

APITAL

ANONYMOUS
One of the proposed
designs for the
Houses of Parliament
to

be

built at

Ottawa

Water-colour,
36 x24 inches

Why Ottawa should

his notions of

as the seat of the great

who could derive pleasure from listening

for

debate in the Canadian Parliament is


an object for one's deepest commiseration, though we may say of such people,

church against the time that Salisbury


Plain is covered with houses.

have been selected


Canadian legislature one can't imagine, except under the
hypothesis that every other place wished
to get rid of the nuisance.

banishment,

for

Canada

Siberia of Great Britain.

know what can induce

It

is

at best

simple
is

the

One doesn't
man to accept

the post of Governor-General, unless he

should be a misanthrope, or have hosts of


relations at home whom he is anxious to

make

distant.
till you see the Parliament
and then you'll be delighted,"
friends, so went, and found that

"But wait

my

to a

as

one does of other

idiots, that

they are the happiest of the

perhaps

human

race.

The making Ottawa the capital strikes


one as either the result of gross jobbery
or stupidity on the part of those who
suggested

it as the seat of government.


Her Majesty is said to have selected it,
believe because some one told her that
its situation would make it most eligible
I

buildings,
said

amusement, but any one

they are the place of rendez-vous for

all

the elite of Ottawa.

There is no quarrel ling with a man as to

Canada of future generations, by which


imagine its advocates must have meant the time when
Canada shall have been all built over.
as a capital for the

118

lust as

good a reason

as might be alleged

converting Stonehenge into a parish

name, must surely be a cor"Hoot awa," or out of the


way, and should think the whole place
must have been some waste lands which
had come into the possession of some
canny son of Caledonia. This is purely
conjecture, and of course am speaking
as an utter outsider, but of all the inconAs

to the

it

ruption for
I

venient spots for a seat of legislature, Ot-

tawa seems

to

be entitled

to take first

rank.
C ROSE
The Great Country: or /mpress/ons ol America

1868

C.WILLIAMS

BYTOUN

The Prince

ot

came down

rain

than ever,

the people continued

cheering

still

lustily.

Precisely

at

o'clock next day (September

taster

the Victoria

House, under

1st),

the

a royal salute,

foundation-stone of the

new

Parliament Buildings of Canada. The


place selected for so doing

was

perfectly

crowded with elegantly-dressed ladies


and gentlemen, seated upon platforms
erected tor the occasion, and the chief
dignitariesol the Province stood within a

which surrounded a space where


the stone (which was of Canadian marble) was placed: to adorn which a neat
railing,

\ATION

s t

M'lTAI

11x14

Ottawa, Canada West

slide at

1860

inches

arch and massive crown had been erect-

them, and on which they speedily em-

ed by the Board

barked, and were rowed about the river

of

Works.

by a party of Ottawa gentlemen. Af-

eleven

weather having cleared up in a most


propitious manner, H.R.H. and suite left
to lay the

Wales descending the timber

Water-colour,

Meanwhile, the

with the Governor-

terwards the Prince viewed the grand

General, &c., took their departure from

canoe-regattawhich there andthen took


place. There were six races. In each race,

H.R.H. and

room

suite,

They then
proceeded to the Chaudiere Falls, situated near the city; and viewed the slides
over which the timber passes, on a raft
which had been previously constructed
by Mr. Skead. The Prince and the entire
the

shortly

after.

including Lord Hinchinbrooke,


Hon. Mr. Eliot, and Lord Mulgrave,
embarked and swiftly passed over one ol
the slides: near the bottom of which, a
beautiful new barge, constructed by the
Clerk of Works for the Government, met
party,

the

119

only a certain number of paddles and


menwereallowed,and itwas somewhat
ludicrous to view it; each one endeavouring to supplant the other, and, in
doing so, requiring to be extremely cautious, lest, by a sudden jerk or move, the
whole occupants of the ranoe should be
precipitated into the water.
|H

MORGAN)

The Tour of H.R.H. The Prince of Walei Through


1 8fa0
British Americs and the United States

BYTOWN- A

MR. FORD

Edinburgh and Ottawa from the drawing-room window


Government House, Ottawa, Ontario
ca. 1876

Water-colour,

Thursday, June 27th.

House

We

tables

arrived at Ottawa, the

first

view

of

which is magnificent; but once landed


was no time to look at anything!
There were nine addresses to be listened
to, and after them we drove off to ournew
home!
We have been so very enthuthere

New
of

NATION'S CAPITAL

8x10

inches

before, and the inevitable bare


and ornamentless rooms have a

depressing effect: for the


realise that

many

years

have

left

and

this

first

time

my own home
is its

for

tables

ble?

and there is no view whatever from it, though it is near the river
and we have come through hundreds of
the land'send,

miles of splendid scenery to get to

Then have never


I

lived in a

it!

Government

in state

through the

town, and have visited the Government

was delighted with

Senate, and with the Library


circular room.

Friday, 28lh.

about everything hitherto that the


first sight of Rideau Hall did lower our
spirits just a little! The road to it is rough
and ugly, the house appears to me to be at

We have driven

buildings.

substitute!

siastic

and supply the homey look which

atpresenliswantjng so why did grum-

Please forget the above growl. The morn-

more

ing has brought


tions.

We are not intended

midsummer, and daresay


I

this

place looks lovely!

to live here at

that in winter

Our house

The weather

warm and

120

is

debates, but the


not!

extremely hot, and

we

morrowtoinspectmilitiaatPrescott,and

is,

meet him there two days

later.

comfortable,

and the Houses of Parliament which,


after all, do see frommy windows are
very beautiful. And can cover up the
I

listen to

are not going to remain here. D. goesto-

they say, very

the

large,

When the House is sitting

may come and

Governor-General may

cheerful reflec-

MARCHIONESS Of Durf ERIN AND AVA

My

Canadian lournal. 1872-8

1891

WILLIAM DENNY

THE TRENT ROUTE TO SETTIEMENT

The covered bridge over the Trent


Pencil drawing,

paramount work Is
by which the Interior of fifty surveyed townships will be
laid open for settlement, on the finest
lands in the province, by ofjening that
river to the Rice Lake, and thence, by
works either performed, or projected,
through a series of other connected lakes
and rivers, into Lake Simcoe, and thence
to Lake Huron. So that it is now by no
means Improbable that vessels may load
in London, and deliver their cargoes in
Michigan, either by the Welland Canal

Connected with

this

the Trent navigation,

direct, or

Trent,

by transhipment through the

which

latter will

be the

safest,

and

most expeditious, as the navigation


may be performed by steam-boats on
Lake Huron under cover of the Manl-

the

toulln Islands, without

exposure to the

River, Trenton,

Canada West

1845

10x1 3% inches

angry waves and storms of that great

derived principally from

fresh-watersea

statist

Should this ever be completed by the


government, the province of Upper
Canada will perhaps be the seat of a fu-

whose

ture nation,

may become
ing,

some

that

internal

resources

so vast and preponderatthe

of

Insignificance.

where, from the great mixture of races,

com-

and British connexion


have given way before a flood of undeflnable notions about liberty and
aristocratic
with
mixed
equality,

command

industry will

unfolded

wealth.

embraced by

the

St.

tawa, Huron, Erie


taining

Surrounded

lakes, rivers, her

and crossed by canals,

the west

Imagining

and
a

its

belt

Lawrence, the Otand Ontario, con-

population

1121

the

neighbouring

northern states would sink into


parative

Britain,

can easily divine the position


they might maintain, and how prudent
It
must be to hold the dominion of
England over this fertile empire as long
as possible, closing the links of connexion by every act of kindness, and securing In the new world a future British
pKJwer, unlike that which is advancing
to completion in the United States;

of

millions.

British feelings

wealth, slavery, and bigotry

R H BONNYCASnt
The Canadas in 1841

1841

in religion.

SUSANNA MOODIE

The

THE TRENT ROUTE TO SETTLEMENT

first

iron

mine

in

Water-colour, 7Vi x

Inland from Port Hope, on the Rice


Lake, in the district of Colborne,

is

Pe-

terborough, a flourishing town, which

be of great importance when the


Trent Canal is completed, as it will be
the centre of one of the most fertile and
important sections of Canada, the capabilities of which are immense. Surrounded as it is by lakes, rivers, and
will

water communications with Ontario,

Simcoe,

Huron, and the Ottawa,

it

no great gift of prophecy to


foretell that the whole country, recently
comprising the districts of Northumberland and Hastings, will become the
greatest and most populous portion of
Canada, comprising, as it does, in the
townships of Marmora, Madoc, and
their vicinities, inexhaustible mines of
requires

iron.
R

MARMORA
A Township

Canada West, Marmora, Hastings County


16 inches

1 1

pose of smelting; but the speculation


in

the Victoria District;

in

1841

is

bounded on the east by the township of


Madoc; on the north by Lake; on the
west by Belmont; and on the south by
Rawdon. In Marmora 8,629 acres are
taken up, 1 ,772 of which are under culThe Marmora River runs
tivation.
through the centre of the township,

from north

to south.

Marmora has been

long noted for the excellence and richness of

Its

iron ore,

which

is

no doubt that this


township alone, under proper management, would be capable of furnishing
sufficient iron for the consumption of
the whole of British North America.
Some years since a large sum was expended in erecting works for the purbest quality. There

is

unfortunately

through, for want of

fell

sufficient capital.

There

one saw

mill in the

but

little

settled,

unfit

for

is

ing

is

one

township.

much

122

Sixteen

thousand three hundred and forty-three

Crown

acres of
in

this

lands are

township,

at

8s.

open

for sale

currency per

acre.

Population

in

1842, 317.

Ratable property

in

the

5,368.

Smith's Canadian Gazetteer

and

of the land be-

cultivation.

W. H. SMITH

1841

grist

Marmora

said to

yield seventy-five per cent of iron of the

H BONNYCASTIE

The Canadas

1846

township,

THE TRENT ROUTE TOSETTIEMEM

EDWIN WHITEFIELD
The bridge across the Otonabee River
1854
at Peterborough, Canada West
Water-colour,

But the grand work that is, sooneror later,


to raise this

portion of the district from

its

presentobscurity, istheopeningalineof

Lake Simcoe, and so through our chain of

and

x 12 inches

and be the means ofsettling many of the


back townships bordering upon these

must leave

to abler

it

myself to discuss

persons than

at large the policy

and

communication between Lake Huron


and the inland townships at the back of

expediency of the measure; but as suppose you have no intention of emigrating


toourbackwoods, you will becontented
with my cursory view of the matter, and
believe, as in friendship you are bound to
do, that it is a desirable thing to open a

the Ontario with the

market

small lakes to Rice Lake,

finally

through the Trent to the Bay of Quinte.


This noble

work would prove

of incal-

culable advantage, by opening a direct

project has already

St.

Laurence. This

been under the conand is at

sideration of the Governor,

present exciting great interest

country; sooner or later there

doubt but that


fect.

It

presents

pense, but

it

it

will

some

in
is

the
little

be carried into efand ex-

difficulties

would be

greatly to the ad-

vantage and prosperity of the country,

for inland

it

is

is

is

a constant excitement

new; every ihinggoing forward;

scarcely possible for

agriculture,

grade;

they

though

in

keep

must

some

may seem

arts,

manufactures,

sciences,
to

retro-

advancing;

situations the progress

slow,

in

others they

on the

particularly in the

123

ing.

The

keeping them from despond-

arrival of

are

some enterprising per-

songivesastimulus tothoseabout him:a


profitable speculation

is

started,

and

lo,

the value of the land in the vicinity rises to

double and treble what it was thought


worth before; so that, without any design
befriending

of

his
settler

neighbours,

have already
the

access

felt

of

the

being carried into

effect shall benefit a great

number.

We

the beneficial effect of

respectable

emigrants

locating themselves in this township, as


it

has already increased the value of our

own

land

in a three-fold

degree.

C P IRAIll

The Backwoods of Canada

proportionably rapid.

assists in

schemes of one

produce.

Canada is the land of hope; here every


thing

There

minds of emigrants,

partially settled townships, that greatly

lakes.

Huron through

navigation from Lake

6'/2

1836

THE TRENT ROUTE TO SETTLEMENT

^Ui

'i

i:

ijj

^^

^-

^ri.

-4c
/t,.^Lr

J
^
7\;

i/i>^;.^
Pic

'JA.p

124-125-423

EDWIN WHITEFIELD

We were able to explore the lake, as Mr.


C

had two Rice Lake or Peterboro'

canoes. These boats are built by a firm

in

Peterboro', Ontario, and are steadier

than birch-bark canoes, though not so


light. They are much used in all parts of
Canada, although the Indians prefer the

birch-bark.

M.FITZGIBBON
/A

/.:,
^,../-- ".fr

Inp To Manitoba

880

124

^y.^

Jr^ i>r6.^

>-

^^

TIIETRtNTROUTETOSFniEMENT

"-'AZf*^

Sawmills on the Otonabee River at Peterborough, Canada West

Waler<olour,

on

situated

is

the

Otonabee, a rapid river, falling In less


than ten miles dov^n an incline of more
than one hundred and fifty feet. There are

upon

several saw-mills

board cutting

is

it;

lumber and

the principal industry of

the locality, besides farming.

town, though very

It is

a very

much

like

Canada. The main street has


Some fine buildingson it, and prides itself
on Its display of plate-glass fronted
others In

stores.
In

one direction the Otonabee River

spreads out nto a smal Hake, where there


i

should be ample

room

for

canoeing and
all the saw-

boat-sailing; but they allow

dust from the mills tocollect in

ferments and
able,

if

1854

x 24 inches

6'/2

Peterborough

pretty

is

not worse.

it,

which

exceedingly disagreeIt

Is

on this river that the

canoes are made which are of worldwide celebrity.


The river about Peterborough is usual-

breaks up they are floated

down

to the

winter they

most Interesting thing to


see the operation conducted. It takes the
best part of summer to bring them down
from the back-country, for they have to
pass through many narrow or shallow
places: the tov^ have to be frequently
broken up, the logs sent over falls and
"chutes" and down rapids; then they
have to be caught again and formed Into
compact groups, sometimes hundreds of
thousands of them, surrounded by logs
joined together by chains. These are
called "tows," and have to be hauled by
main force, often by horses or by tugs,

cut these logs, usually from twelve feet to

across the currentless lakes to the next

ly

dotted

ing

in

down

summer

with saw-logs float-

with the stream to the mills.

There are frequent "jams" of them

narrow or shallow
loggers

show

parts,

their

in

and then the

wonderful

agility,

running out over a mass of them, lying

in

every awkward position, and getting

them adrift by means of long spiked poles, which they use as levers to push with.
The Otonabee runsoutof a chain of lakes
which extends back for very many miles
to the pine forests.

twenty feet

There

in

in length; these are

hauled by

oxen, or rolled by hand, to the edges of


the then frozen streams.

{125

When

the ice

sawmills.

It

is

narrows, where

all

has to be repeated.

LROKR
By Track and

Trail

89

SETTLING THE SHORELINE

lAMES PATTISON

COCKBURN

The road between Kingston and York,

Upper Canada
Water-colour,

arose with the sun,


[June] 24 [1819]
and after going 2 miles, got into what are
I

called the 9 mile

woods A

ago there was not

short time

house all this distance, but lately there have been three or
four log ones built The cause of there
being so few settlers here is not as in
many instances, from the barrenness of
the

soil,

which

in

these

woods

is

very

good, but the Proprietors of this have gotten

toomuch

land,

and

will neitherclear

them who
would do it As a law has been lately
passed, obligingevery person to keep the
it

themselves, nor

sell

it

to

road

in repair

probable that

make some

opposite his property

it

is

induce them to

this will

better use of this

and many

other pieces of land than they have


hitherto

done The

morning

being

calm, the mosquitoes were extremely

numerous, and almost insufferable


After leaving the Wood there are a few
miles, cleared alongthe road after which
you come into the five mile woods,
which are still unsettled These places

1830

15%

x lOVi inches

few miles further to night and lodged exactly 30 miles from York The land
looks to be considerably better here,
than lower down and if properly cultivated, and manured, would produce
luxuriant crops for three days past
have seen nothing interesting to the Botwhich circumstance is not
anist,
calculated to elevate the spirits, and
I

make

person forget the fatigues of

travelling

This day was

fair,

ther. 80.

are likely to retain their original appelations

be

however unappropriate, they may

in a

short period

126

travelled only a

COIDIE

Diary of a lourney Through Upper Canada,

1819

SFTTIINC THE SHORELINE

The blood-root, sanguinaria, or puccoon, as it is termed by some of the native


tribes, is worthy of attention from the root

As soon

to the flower.

has

warmed

from

its

guish a

as the sun of April

and loosened

the earth

frozen bonds, you

number

may

it

distin-

of purely white buds,

elevated on a naked footstalk, and par-

enfolded in a handsome vineshaped leaf, of a pale bluish green,


curiously veined on the under side with
pale orange. The leaf springs singly from
a thick juicy fibrous root, which, on betially

ing broken, emits a quantity of liquor

from

Its

pores of a bright orange scarlet

colour: this juice

and also

a dye,

is

used by the Indians as


cure of rheumatic,

in the

and cutaneous complaints. The flowers


of the sanguinaria resemble the white

crocus very closely: when it first comes


upthe bud is supported by the leaf, and is
folded together with
ever,

soon elevates

tector,

howabove its prohaving performed

it;

the flower,

itself

while the leaf

Itsduty of guard ian to the tender bud, ex-

pands to
ble

its full

mould

size.

at the

A rich black vegeta-

edges of the clearings

seemsthe favourite

soil for this plant.

'J

'

FANNY BAYFIELD
Bloodroot, Dog's Tooth Violet,
and Red Trillium

Water-colour,

The

lily

4% x

tribe offer

1 1

y4

an extensive variety

from the most minute to the very largest


flowers.

The red martagon grows abun-

dantly on our plains; the dog's tooth violet,

Erythronium, with

tjiilctiri^

its

spotted leaves

spots nor lines,

and the deep yellow with

into the petal. Wherefore it bears so formidable a name has not yet transpired.
The flower consists of three petals, the
calix three; it belongs to the class and
order Hexandria monogynia; style,

powdery substance.

very beautiful plant of the

lily

come up

separate tuber.
this

one from each


There are two varieties of
singly,

flower, the pale yellow, with neither

tribe

abounds both m our woods and clearings; for want of a better name, call it the
a great portion of the continent.

leaves

latter

orange, and thickly covered with a fine

outer part of the petal, proves a great at-

increase: they form a beautiful bed; the

deep green; the

appears to be caused by the calix running

last

douri-lily,

our woods, where these plants

blush-pink, or a

are reddish-

both; the anthers of this

and bending yellow blossom, delicately


dashed with crimson spots within, and
marked with fine purple lines on the
traction in

,*e^5*i*-

inches

though

it

is

widely spread over

The

Americans term the white and red varieties of this species, the "white" and "red
death." The flower is either deep red, or
of a dazzling white, though the latter is
often found stained with a delicate

127

three-cleft; seed-vessel of three valves;


soil,

dry woods and cleared lands; leaves

growing

in

joints, large

three,

springing from the

round, but a

little

the extremities.
C P TRAILl

The Backwoods of Canada

1836

pointed at

SETTLING THE SHORELINE

COBOURG
The

District

trict,

Town of the Newcastle

Dis-

the township of Hamilton,

in

pleasantly situated

on

is

a gently rising

Reading Room, Chapel,

tains Library,

Rooms, &c. &c.


was founded by

Laboratory,

Lecture

Although the

institution

ground, on the bank of Lake Ontario, 103

the Methodists, there

miles from Kingston, and 72 miles from

The following periodicals are received at the Reading Room,


which are liberally forwarded by their
severaleditors, theCollege beingmerely
at the expense of postage: Church,
Cobourg; British Colonist, Toronto; British Canadian, do.; Banner (Presbyterian)
do.; Kingston News; Montreal Gazette;
Hamilton Journal and Express; Canada

Toronto. The town

is

incorporated, and

the corporation limits extend for nearly

two miles from the centre of the town.


Cobourg is situated on a gravelly soil,
and

consequently dry, clean and


The town is well laid out, possesses good streets, and many excellent
buildings, and has a very flourishing
appearance. A harbour has been constructed at an expense of 1 0,381 6s. 3d
and a ighthouse erected at the end of the
it

is

healthy.

pier. Excellent

tend

in

planked side-walks ex-

every direction for a distance of

in

nothing sectarian

is

character.

its

Hope

Gazette; Kingston Herald; Port

Gazette; Cornwall Observer; Brockville

Recorder; Niagara Chronicle; Belleville

Edward Gazette;
American

Intelligencer; Prince

Woodstock Herald;

British

from one to two miles.


During the season, steamboats call
daily on their passages to and from Kingston, Toronto, and Rochester (United

Cultivator; Christian Guardian, Toronto;

and a stage leaves daily for Rice


Lake, where it is met by the steamboat
Forester, which conveys passengers to
Peterborough; and the Toronto and
Kingston stages pass through the town

York;

States);

every day. During the winter, a stage

leaves daily for Peterborough.

fair

held here on the second Tuesdays

is

in

and October. The merchants have


established
amongst themselves a
"Board of Trade," for the purpose of
regulating the commercial affairs of the
place; they have a newsroom, where
April

several papers are taken. There

Mechanics'

Institute.

is

also a

Three newspapers

are published here viz., the "Church,"

"Cobourg Star," and "Canada Christian


Advocate." Churches and Chapels six,
viz..

Episcopal, Presbyterian, Catholic,

Congregational, Methodist, and Christian. In the

Episcopal church

is

a very

good organ. TheJailandCourt House isa


handsome stone building, situated about
a mile and a-half from the town, on the
Toronto road.

MethodistQuarterly Review,

Anglo American, do.;

New York;

Spjectator, do.; Lit-

New
New Orleans Picayune; Christian
Advocate and Journal, New York;
erary Garland, Montreal; Albion,

Southern Christian Advocate, Charleston; Episcopal Recorder, Philadelphia.

The boarders

at the

number about

College at present

thirty-five,

and the day

pupils about twenty.

large cloth factory has

been

lately

erected, for the manufacture of coarse


cloth, tweeds, cassinett, blankets, flannels, &c.;

when

in full op)eration

it

will

employ nearly 200 hands, and will be


capable of turning out 850 yards of cloth
p)er day. The building is of brick, and is
five stories high, including

basement.

The following government and district


offices are kept in Cobourg: Judge of DisCourt, Sheriff, Treasurer, Inspector

trict

ofLicenses, Collector of Customs, Registrar

of

County of Northumberland, Dis-

trictClerk, Clerk of District Court.


fice of the Clerk of the

Port

Peace

is

Theofkept at

Hope.

Post Office, post every day.

Population, 3,347

Victoria College

was founded by

the

Professions

and Trades. Six phy-

Wesleyan Conference; the

institution

sicians and surgeons, seven lawyers, one

was chartered

Academy

steam grist-mil I, two water do., two sawmills, one cloth factory, one brewery,

and by Act

in

1835, as an

was
constituted a College, with power to
confer degrees in the several arts and

three distilleries,

sciences (the only degree yet con-

foundries, twenty dry-goods stores, ten

been one in literature); it is


supported partly by a legislative grant of
500 per annum, and partly by tuition
fees. The building is handsome, and well
situated, and cost nearly 1 0,000; itcon-

groceries,

ferred has

of Parliament, in 1842,

and candle

one ashery, one soap


two

factory, three tanneries,

two hardware stores, twelve


two druggists, three printers,
three booksellers, two surveyors, five
waggon makers, one hatter, two livery
stables, one veterinary surgeon, two
taverns,

128

watch makers, three tinsmiths, five cabinet makers, ten tailors, two saddlers, four
bakers and confectioners, eleven blacksmiths, one marble worker, one pail factory,
four
planing machines, one
machine maker, fourteen shoemakers,
three merchant tailors, two barbers, four
butchers, three schools for boys, three
ladies seminaries, two bank agencies
"Commercial," and "Montreal."

Principal

Taverns.

SETTUNCTHESHORtllNE

ANONYMOUS

"North Ameri-

The wharf and town of Cobourg


from the harbour, Canada West

can," and "Globe."

tand Agent,
Stage fare
winter,

ten

S.

to

Armour.
Peterborough during

shillings

steamboat fare

to do.

c'y.;

stage

Water-colour,

and

during summer,

seven shillings and six-pence.


VV-H SMITH

Smith's Canadian Gazetteer

846

U9

9x12% inches

1847

SEHLiNC THE SHORELINE

>-^,,v.^

/
fj

ELISABETH FRANCIS HALE


York on Lake Ontario, Upper Canada
Water-colour,

11x1 J'/j

804

inches

130

..V
Pill'

"ffii!.

iff

SETTIINCTHF SMORfllSE

The trade tdrried on trom Montreal


lakes

to the

forward their settlements wjth the utmost

present very considerable, and


increasing every year. Already are there

vigour.

extensive settlements on the British side


of Lake Ontario, at Niagara, at Toronto,

with astonishing rapidity, both on the

at

is

Bay of Canti, and

at the

the people of the states are pushing

York, or Toronto, the seat of govern-

Upper Canada, is placed in


forty-three
degrees
and thirty-five
in

minutes of north

latitude,

near the bot-

tom of a harbour of the same name. A


long and narrow peninsula, distinguished by the appellation of Gibraltar

and embraces

Point, forms,

bour, securing

Lake

har-

this

from the storms of the


lake, and rendering it the safest of any,

and on the opposite

British

it

WELD

the Provinces ol

lapse of six or seven years,

who

spot called the garrison, stands

bank of the main land, opposite to


the point, and consists only of a wooden block-house, and some small cottages of the

which
is

same

materials,

temporary

rior to

little

supe-

The house

huts.

in

the Lieutenant-governor resides

wood, in the figsquare, of one story in

likewise formed of

ure of a half

height, with galleries in the center.


sufficiently

commodious

and

upon a bank of
mouth of Toronto

lake,

is

erected

near the

The town, ac-

bay.

cording to the plan,

projected to ex-

is

tend to a mile and a half

in length,

from

the bottom of the harbour, along

Many

banks.

is

for the present

state of the province,

the

It

houses

its

of wonder, on beholding a
town which may be termed handsome,

timents

reared as

Toronto

is,

worse
all

so

in

much

as

it

The ad-

taste.

as a residence,

better than other small

worse and

communitiesis

remote from

the best advantages of a high state of

civilisation,

while

evils, all

follies;

its

it

is

better,

brick at the eastern extremity of the


town, which were designed as wings to

up,

me: but

it

is

in spite of this affec-

must

it

the thinking

at

present

it

is in

131

basin

is

agreeable and diversified; a

block-house, situated upon a

wooded

bank, forms the nearest object; part of


the town, points of land clothed with

spreading oak-trees, gradually receding

from the eye, one behind another,

until

terminated by the buildings of the garri-

son and the spot on which the governor's residence

compose

placed,

is

the

on the right. The left side of the


view comprehends the long peninsula
which incloses this sheet of water,
beautiful on accountof its placidity, and
objects

rotundity

form;

of

the

distant

lake,

which appears bounded only by the


sky, terminates the

whole.

G HE RIOT
Travels Through the

like that of a

rather

like

Canadas

1807

youth aping maturity; or

that

of the

little

Hogarth's picture, dressed


flapped

laced

waistcoat,

in

boy
a

in

long-

ruffles

and

With the interminable forests within


half a mile of us -the haunt of the red
man, the wolf, the bear with an
absolute want of the means of the most
ordinary mental and moral development, we have here conventionalism in
most oppressive and ridiculous
its

it

advance
may
head and beating
heart of a nation, great, and wise, and
happy who knows? And there are moments when, considered under this point
of view, it assumes an interest even to
ing

occupied as chambers for


upper and lower house of assembly. The scene from this part of the

because,

tation of looking back, instead of look-

become

the

in

buildings of

cocked-hat, crying for bread and butler.

besides being a small place,

young place; and

Two

all its

infected by

and

by enchantment,

if

midst of a wilderness.

already

are

completed, some of which display a


considerable degree of

in this part

of the country, are impressed with sen-

the

and persons

have formerly travelled

a center, are

this

America and
Upper and Lower Canada 1 799

vancement of this place to its present


condition, has been effected within the

constructed near the extremity of


point.

side.

Travels Through the Slalei ol North

around the coasts of that sea of fresh


waters. Stores and block-houses are

on

and along Detroit

Erie,

at Kingston,

which contain nearly twenty thousand


inhabitants; and on the opposite shore,

ment

On

Riveralso, the settlements are increasing

a false position.

forms.
\ lAMESON

Winter

Studies

Canada

1838

and

Summer

Rambles

in

The

situation of

York

Is

tar

trom an

invit-

SETTIINCTHESHOREIINE

ingcountry.

Thougha morecentral

posi-

it wasproposed thatthecapiUpper Canada should be on the

yearssince
of

ing one, the inhabitants being subject

tion than Kingston at the foot of the lake,

tal

during certain seasons to the fever and

no other respects does it equal it.


The bay is too shallow to admit vessels of
even moderate burden, and in time of
war it is always exposed to the incursions
of American gun-boats, and the town

borders of Lake Simcoe, and a water


communication be opened with Montreal by means of the shallow lakes and

ague, caused by the marshy ground


which lies close to the town and around
the head of the bay. It is almost to be
regretted thata belter site could not have

beenchosen forthe

capital of an increas-

yet in

subject to be sacked, as in 1813.

132

Some

Rideau Canal; but

believe

all

thoughts

of removing the seat of Government from

York are

now

entirely laid aside.

The

sfll!

IN(".

Tin

SMdKf IIM

SEMPRONIUSSTRETTON
The barracks at York,
1804
Upper Canada
Water-colour,

and

in

the

Immediate vicmlty

ind cold, but

is

poor

becomes more fertile as the

trom the lake increases, and


lood farms are abundant towards Lake
listance

limcoe, and

Young

on

the sides of the road

The place is how'Veronly in its infancyasyet, and said to


)e Increasing rapidly, though the comailed

Street.

.ind Buffalo, the last


parisons between
American town had seen, and of a very
few years' growth, were much in favour
of the latter. There are no places of public
amusement, and the chief diversion for
the young men appeared to consist in
which
musquito
hawks,
shooting
hovered plentifully al)out the streets and
It

II

133

12x21

inches

upon the margin of the bay in an evening.

Upon
made

these occasions the sportsmen


their

appearence, equipped

in

shooting jackets, and attended by their


dogs, as

on
E

the

if

prepared

for a

moors of Scotland.

COKE

A Subaltern 's furlough

1833

2th of August

SETTLING THE SHClRELlNiE

PHILIP

lOHN BAINBRICCE

The

pier

and barracks

Water-colour,

The

military

works and buildings

at this

place, having been originally merely

New barracks for the

distance from the town, are

in

On

at

York, Upper

Canada

of property here

the military reserve,

is

forming

into the

new western

acre

lots

sold by government fetched five

the course

and

six

hundred pounds,

portion of the city,

at

Until

incredible.

now

some

dis-

tance from the parts of the city built upon.

of erection.

1839

inches

troops, at a

temporary erections, are unworthy of


notice.

The value

6x10

about six or seven years ago, the


in Toronto were mostly of

buildings

wood,

as stone

quantity

is

the

in

Building-ground

employed, as the
that the

obtained the land as grants when

BONNYCASTLE

The Canadas

in

184

1841

little

value, are

now amongst the

[134

it

was of

richest.

soil is

so good a clay,

foundation and cellarage of a

house often yield the necessary material


for the superstructure.

who were formerly very needy, and who


K H

in sufficient

neighbourhood, and

consequently fires frequently devastated


the town. Brick has since been chiefly

is

in the populous streets


worth from ten pounds to twenty
pounds a foot, and will no doubt be
much higher; and thus many persons

not found

H BONNYCASTLE

The Camdai

in

184

SFrrilNC THESHOREIINE

WILLIAM ARMSTRONG

Pnnce Arthur

arriving tor the

ceremony onhe turning of the

sod of the Toronto, Grey and Bruce Railway,

October

5,

x27%

inches

Each was armed

Yesterday forenoon the construction of

bles had a sad time of

Grey and Bruce Railway


was inaugurated with an eclat and

with a baton and had a bunch of ribbon

which, perhaps,

brilliancy

have not

characterized the turning of the


of any railway in Canada, for

railway in the

first

sod

no other

Dominion can boast

of

his

it.

in

button hole, but what could they do.

Had

first

Weston, Ontario

869

Water-colour, ISVi

the Toronto,

at

been an ordinary crowd it would


have been an easy matter for in that case,
no doubt, both the batons and the ribbons would have had their proper effect.
it

And

as Mr.

Armstrong was present

takinga sketch of the scene, the whole affair will

be permanently preserved. ...

may be mentioned

in

closing that

the Prince had tumbled his

It

when

two sods out

of the barrow, a most indiscriminate

scramble took place as to

who

should

obtain possession of the precious earth.

the track. This led through a beautiful

crowd was composed


largelyof ladies, and whatcould Weston
Sfjecial constables do in the circumstances. They tried to coax the fair crea-

arch decked with evergreens, and sur-

tures to stand back; then they attempted

cars

homeward were seen

mounted by ensignsand crown and ban-

good behaviour, but


of course all without avail. Then some of
them got angry and flourished their
batons and fumed and told them in good

their

pockets a good sized tuft, and show-

ing

it

having had
Prince. ...

sod turned by a Royal

its first

A few hundred

yards west of

was

built close to

the village a platform

nerets,

bearing

innumerable,

rounded on

all

mottoes
quadrangle sursides with sloping gallerappropriate

into

ies crowded with schoolchildren and


people of the neighbourhood all of

whom were evidently in the highest state


of

expectancy

catch a glimpse of His

to

Royal Highness.

The special consta-

But then

to reason

set

the

them

into

terms that they must stand back, but

Ladies and gentlemen

all

to pieces,

to

and several

their

travellers with as

less

to

draw from

gusto as

or the ancient palace of Thebes.

TORONTO

was a

Clobe

the

fellow
if

they

had some relics from the ruins of Pompeii

and Dido-like magnificence with which the Toronto ladies


looked over the heads of the constables

[135

in

parties in the

fortunate

much

the grandeur

caution.

joined

melee, and the two sods were soon torn

Octotjerb, 1869

THE TORONTO PORTAGE

GEORGE RUSSELL DARTNELL


At Barrie on Lake Simcoe,

Upper Canada

Water-colour, 7 x

10'/4

1841

inches

BARRIE

So called

Commodore

after

town of

Barrie, the

horseback, and partly by water.

A new

steamboat, the "Beaver," was launched

The following government and district

Simcoe District is
beautifully situated at the head of Kempenfeldt Bay, in the township of Vespra,

during the

thirty-two miles from Holland Landing,

and

sombre appearance, beingalmost totally


devoid ofclearing: most of the timber on
the banks is pine. Town lots, of a quarter

Court, Deputy Clerk of Crown.

of an acre, in the old survey (or original

one surveyor,
one
waggon maker, one baker, one saddler,
onecabinetmaker, one watchmaker, six
shoemakers, three tailors, two butchers,
one bank agency "Upper Canada."
Agent for hlome District Mutual Fire

District

forty miles

the

from Penetanguishine.

was first settled in the year 1832;


837 it contained about twenty-eight
in
families. In 1843 the county of Simcoe,
until then part of the Home District, was
Barrie
1

declared a separate
for

its

district,

with Barrie

town. Since then

district

it

has

increased rapidly. The situation was we

chosen and

is

healthy. Should the con-

templated canal from the bay to Lake


Huron, through Willow Creek and the

Nottawasaga River, ever be formed,


Barrie, which is now truly in the woods,
will have uninterrupted water communication with the St. Lawrence. At
present, the road from Barrie to the
Holland Landing, is, in the spring and
fall, almost impassable for waggons. The

summer of 1844:

she

off ices are kept in Barrie:

Judge of District

an ex-

Court, Sheriff, Clerk of Peace, Registrar,

cellent boat,

and has good accommoThe banks of the bay have a rather

Inspector

dation.

Agent, District Clerk, Clerk of District

town-plot) are

in

is

the hands of private

individuals, and sell at from 20 to50,


some higher. An addition has lately been

made to the town-plot, and the lots in the


new survey sell at from 5 to 12 10s.
each; they are mostly

in

the hands of the

Crown. The public buildings are the jail


and court-house. The jail is a handsome
stone building;
brick,

the court-house

and has no beauty

is

Crown Lands

Licenses,

of

and

Professions

Trades

One

physician and surgeon, one lawyer, six


stores, three

three

tanneries,

taverns,

Insurance

blacksmiths,

four

Company W.

Steamboat Fares:

B.

Smith.

ToHolland Landing

of

....

to boast of; the

8s.9d. c'y.

To

ditto

Episcopal and two Methodist. There isan

To

Orillia

excellent district school (where private

Shorter distance

better,

pupils are taken); a mechanics' institute,

proportion.

most part along a stony


The mail, during the spring
and autumn, is carried on horse-back;
and through the summer, partly on

and a cricket club.


The
inhabitants
are
principally
English, Irish and Scotch, and number
about 500.

road to Penetanguishine

running

for the

ridge of land.

is

much

twocostthedistrictnearly9,000. There
are three churches

and chapels:

136

viz.

by Orillia

one

lls.3d.

Principal

Tavern.

"The

Arms."

H SMITH

Smith's Canadian Gazetteer

846

8s.9d.
in

Queen's

THE

GEORGE BACK

TORONTO PORTAGE

A Corporal's house on
Mountain

in

the portage with the Blue


1 825
the distance. Upper Canada

Water-colour,

Writers on emigration

do not

take the

He

5x8 inches

forgets that these advantages are

The

waters

Simcoe

Lake

of

are

troubleof searching out these things, nor

the result of long years of unremitting and

purpose to state dishave written


exclusively on the "Bush." Travellers
generally make a hasty journey through

patient labour; that these things are the

River Matchedash, through a series of

crown, not the

highly romantic and picturesque

does

it

answer

agreeable

their

facts.

the long settled

Few

and prosperous portions

of the country; they see a tract of fertile,

well-cultivated land, the result of

many

years of labour; they see comfortable

dwellings, abounding with

all

the sub-

stantial necessaries of life; the farmer's

wife makes her

own

soap, candles, and

sugar; the family are clothed in cloth of


their

own

spinning, and hose of their

own knitting. The bread, the

beer, butter,

cheese, meat, poultry, &c. are

all

the

first-fruits

of the settler's

discharged into the Georgian Bay by the

falls,

many

whic h, before the bridle road was made,

and great privations must be submitted to

where, by means of portages, the only

toil;

and

that during the interval

route practicable to Penetangueshene

by almost every class of emigrants.

Many persons, on
pecially

if

first

coming out, es-

they go back into any of the un-

by the
unpromisingappearance of things about
them. They find none of the advantages
and comforts of which they had heard
and read, and they are unprepared for the
settled townships, are dispirited

some

way

from the capital.

Of late years military settlers have


been located along the path, which has
improved it very much. The path is practicable

generally

for

usual

mode

of

Penetangueshene

strong

light

the

more

proceeding

from

waggon, but horesback

is

despondency, and others quit the place

Lake Simcoe. Settlements are gradually spreading along

in disgust.

the

present difficulties;

give

to

whole

line,

to

and the distance of

now

produce of the farm. He concludes,

twelve miles cannot

Canada is a land of
Canaan, and writes a book setting forth

these ancient forests without meeting a

therefore,

that

house or

hut.

these advantages, with the addition of

obtaining land
vises

all

for a

persons

mere song; and ad-

who would be

indepen-

dent and secure from want to emigrate.

C P TRAIU

The Backwoods of Canada

137

1836

M BONNYCASTLE

The Canadas

in

1841

be passed

in

The British portion of the expedition


were ordered to leave Kingston, in
Canada West, as early in the year as possible, in a beautiful clinker-built

Toronto. From thence

we were

boatfor
to trans-

port boatand

William

TORONTO PORTAGE

THE

we were

to find,

ready

for us,

pect of marsh and wood, stretching to the

six

south thirty miles or more, and bounded

In these we were to
proceed by the Grand Portage along the
old commercial route, to the Lake of the

eastward by a long range of blue hills,


flat-topped, and running in the direction

two

manned

canoes

north

by

voyageurs each.

Woods, while

American party were


new route up the River

baggage thirty-seven miles


by Yonge Street, in a waggon, to
Hoi land's Landing on Lake Simcoe; then
to pass into Lake Huron by the pretty river
Notawasaga, and so onwards to Fort
William, in Lake Superior. At Fort

overlooking from a

GEORGE BACK

On

to

the

pursue their

Kaministigua.

Near

its

we found

lower end

bank

lofty

ourselves

a vast pros-

marsh
does not go more than three miles
northerly, and is succeeded by high
forests and occasional lakes towards
Penetanguishene.
of Cabot's Head, Lake Huron. This

BICSBV

By Shoe and Canoe

1850

the portage between Lake Ontario and


1825
Lake Simcoe, Upper Canada

Water-colour,

observe

5x8 inches

an

harbour could

ending, dense, and impenetrable

the

Nottawassaga Bay

to

the

be formed. A more solemnora more desolate abiding place can scarcely be

only certain

cannot always be
approached from the bay, on account of

sandsand portages. But the river, with its


deep black hue, looks more like
Ancheron than any thing else, and is so
encumbered with trees that have been
swept into it by storms, that it is with
much difficulty navigable in the canoes

is one of the largest of


numerous indentations of Huron; in

fact,

it

is

larger than

European

lakes.

inhabited; for not

adventurous

Its

many

of the largest

shores are yet to be

more than twoor three

settlers

have penetrated

its

forests.
I

encamped with

the

commandant

of

mouth of the Nottawassaga


on the 23rd of June, 1835, in order
to examine the estuary, and the site of a
formernaval establishment, with a view
River,

as

artificial

it

the terrible violence with


sets in

the British postof Penetangueshene, Dr.


Ingall, at the

imagined,

if

on

this

which

the sea

long line of shallow and ex-

posed shore. An unhappy wreck had


happened just before we were there, and
a pole with a board placed on the sands,
showed usas we passed, the place where
it had occurred.

On

the land side

all

138

is

forest

never

river itself,

mode of access being by the

from the

interior, or

of the country.

M eONNYCA^TLE

The Canadas

in

184

1841

along the

HAMPDtN MUUUY
Ice-boating

at

Water-colour,

atter

PHILIP

THE

TORONTO PORT ^CE

JOHN BAINBRICGE

Penelanguishene on Lake Huron, LIpper Canada


6'/2

9%

ca.

1840

inches

ANONYMOUS
The mouth of the Nottawasaga
Water-colour,

9x11

River, Lake

Huron, Upper Canada

inches

i.iy

il

1824

GATEWAY TO THE NORTHWEST

Early
Silver

on Saturday morning we passed


Islet, that mine of wealth to our

dian company; but from the lackof en-

an

can company for a nominal sum, and, as


is often the case, the sanguine nature of
Cousin Jonathan, acting on the motto,
"Nothing ventured nothing won," has
been successful, and the company is
now (1879) shipping $20,000 worth of

neighbours across the


island-dotted bay, and

mining works

that

it

line.
is

It

lies in

so covered with

looks like a pile of

buildings rising out of the water. The

crushing-millsare on the mainland close


by. Silver Islet

belonged

first

to a

Cana-

MAURICE CAVILLER

terprise or capital

it

Thunder Cape and

Silver islet.

Pencil drawing, 5Vi

At four o'clock

running

and

at

down

in

silver ore a day.

onlyby those

The

islet

can be

who have especial

friends

among

the officials, neither of

which had we.


M

FITZCIBBOM

Trip to

Manitoba

1877

Lake Superior

x lOVi inches

Company.

American

Every ton of quartz taken in 1874 was

tive of Belfast.

at

worth over 4,000, most of it being sent


to England or the States packed in casks,

three hours' visiteverything

SILVER ISLET,

Mining

Silver

visited

permis-

sion to see the mines and works, or

morning we were
under full steam,

the

the bay

eleven arrived

was sold to an Ameri-

number of which we took on


board. The population at the works was

Scotch, and

Irish,

the captain being a na-

As faras could see from


I

was in apple

pie order,

a large

where

there

mines

in

We

is

one

of the richest silver

the world, belonging to the

Islet, the most


mine in the world for a
is a mere speck, 70 or 80

next arrive at Silver

profitable silver

time. This island

from the shore 3,000


or 4,000 yards; yet from this little island
probably two millions of dollars in silver
have already been extracted, at an outlay
of one million dollars. Breakwaters have
feet square, distant

from

,500 to 2,000 comprising English,

been made,
metal

and precious

shafts sunk,

taken out

below the water.

many hundred feet


A village of consider-

ablesizesprangupasif by magic,onthe
shore just opposite, but
fora time at least.

with the
trated

now deserted

O'lEARY

Travels

and Experiences

in

Canada

no date

A large number of the miners


removed to Manitoba, where they will
no doubt find that it is safer and more
profitable to work on the surface than

yetflourish.

under ground.

When litigation ceases

company and

and held by

it is

P-

stock

few

140

this

concenmine may

is

trow

Manitoba and North West

Territories

1878

CMEWAY TO THE NORTHWEST

>

WILLIAMH. E.NAPIER

The Hudson's Bay Company post at

Wednesday, 24th. Early this morning


left the encampment, and after two

cellent,

and

Canada West

><.

Jl

857

6% x 9% inches

Water-colour,

we

Fort William, Lake Superior,

it is

dirticult to

purpose of travelling on Lake

for the

Superior, being much too large

William burst

up)on our enraptured gaze, mirrored in

delicate flavour. These trout, as well as

and cumbersome for travelling with through the


interior. They are carried by four men in-

and the

stead of two, like the north canoe, and,

hours'

paddling.

Fort

immense freshLake Superior, whose rocky

immense

say whether

which are
alsocaught in abundance, have the most
they, or the

trout,

the limpid waters of that

whitefish, are caught in nets,

water sea.

former sometimes measure three feet

besides being capable of carr\'ing twice

The
one we had to breakfast on the morning
of our arrival, must have been very nearly

as

shores and rolling billows vie with the

ocean

in

grandeur and magnificences.

FortWilliam was once one of the chief


posts in the Indian country; and,

when

it

long, and are proportionately broad.

those obtained in other parts of the

already passed; while those going from

Many of the

country.

rickety-looking
er, a

that

affairs.

remain are very


It

is still,

howev-

very important fishing station, and

many hundreds

of beautiful whitefish,

with which Lake Superior swarms, are


salted there annually for the

Canada

markets. These whitefish are indeed ex-

Canada

furs traded are similar to

this size.

good, but the

down, and those

cargo, are paddled by fourteen

change their
canotesdemaftre for north canoes at Fort
William, before entering upon the intricate navigation through which we had

belonged to the North-West Company,


contained a great number of men. Now,
however, much of its glory has departed.
buildings have been pulled

much

or sixteen men. Travellers from

The

fur trade of the post

A number

is

not very

of candles de mattre, or

very large canoes, are always kept


store here, for the use of the
travellers.

These canoesare of the

size, exceeding the north

in

Company's
largest

canoe in length

by several feet, besides being much


broader and deeper. They are used solely

141

to the interior generally

the interior to Canada,

change the small

canoe. As

we had few men,

for the large

however, and the weather appeared


we determined to risk coasting
round the northern shore of the lake in
our north canoe.
settled,

BAllANTYNt

Hudson

Bay

1848

GATEWAY TO THE NORTHWEST

Three hours' steaming brought our


tilla

to the

west end of the

lake.

flo-

por-

tageofthreequartersofa mile intervenes

between it and Lake Kashaboiwe. The


Indians emptied the canoes in a trice;
twoshouldered a canoe, weighing probably three hundred pounds, and made
off at a rapid trot across the portage. The
others loaded the

waggon

of the station

with the luggage, and carried on their

by

backs,

strap

foreheads, what the

passed over their

waggon could

take. This portage strap

inches broad

in

the middle,

tage to the voyageur


the free use of his

is

arms

three yards wide, that flows in a tortuous


channel with gentle current into the lake,

eventually finds

its

way to Hudson's Bay.

The Height of Land

is

about

thousand

feetabove Lake Superior

not

where

it

is

him

The second half was to be by waggons


and canoes; waggons at the beginning
and end; and, in the middle, canoes

going through

paddled by Indians or tugged by steam

its

that
in

between Kashaboiwe and Lac de Mille


Lacs, and is the Height of Land where the
water begins to run north and west instead of east and south. The lakes, after
this, empty at their west ends. At the east
end of Lac des Mille Lacs, a little stream

three or four

is

adjusted to the forehead;

great advanit

leaves

woods. A tug has been placed on


Kashaboiwe, but as the machinery was
out of gear the Indians paddled over the
lake, doing the ten miles of its length in
two hours. The wood on this lake is
heavier than on Shebandowan poplars,
white birch, red, white and scrub pine,
all show well. The second portage is
the

launches over a chain of lakes, extending


I

ike a net

work

in all

directions along the

watershed that separates the basin of the


great Lakes and St. Lawrence from the
vast Northern basin of Hudson's Bay.

Thus we finished our journey, from Lake


Superior to Red River, by the Dawson
road, of which all had previously heard
much, in terms of praise or disparagement. The total distance is about five
hundred and thirty miles; forty-five at
the beginning and a hundred and ten at
the end by land; and three hundred and
eighty miles between, made up of a chain
of some twenty lakes and lacustrine
rivers, separated from each other by

M CR^NT

Ocean

nadian volunteers passing through Min-

it

might beotherwise.
In

Over those

three hundred

and

agriculture

is

along Rainy River, and,

perhaps, around the Lake of the Woods.

were we absolutely dependent,

nesota;

only

eighty miles the only land suitable for

1873

havearoadofourown,the LJnited States


would perhaps raise no objection to Ca-

or short traverses of land

across.

Ocean

back from the boundary line. If Canada


IS to open up her North-west to all the
world for colonization, there must be a
road for troops, from the first: there are
sufficient elements of disorder to make
preparedness a necessity. As long as we

orgranite rocks, that have to be portaged

spits, ridges,

to

speaking of
fair to

give

this

full

Dawson road

credit for

all

it

is

that has

been accomplished. Difficulties have


been overcome, insomuch that, whereas
it

took Colonel Wolseley's force nearly

a wilder-

months to reach Fort Garry trom


Thunder Bay, a similar expedition could

ness of lakes, or tarns on a large scale,

nowdo the journey in two or three weeks.

North and south the country


filling

is

huge holes scooped out of primi-

three

But, as a route for trade, for ordinary

The scenery Is picturesque,


though rather monotonous, owing to the

travel or for

absence of mountains; the mode of travelling, whether the canoes are paddled
or tugged, novel and delightful; and, if
a tourist can afford a crew of Indians,
and three or four weeks' time, he is cer-

Only by building a hundred and

tive rock.

tain to

enjoy himself, the necessity of

it adding zest to the pleasure.


The road has been proved on two oc-

roughing

C M GRANT

Ocean

is

builtfarther

far

from

satisfactory.
fifty-five

and the end, and by overcoming the intervening portages in such a way that
bulk would not have to be broken, could
It
be made to compete even with the
present route by Duluth and the railway
thence to Pembina.

Dominion,

railway

is

miles or so of railway at the beginning

casions to be a military necessity for the


until a

emigrants to go west, the

Dawson road

to

Ocean

1873

142

CAIEVVAY lO THE NORTHWEST

WILLIAM ARMSTRONG
Building Ihe

Dawson Road

Kashabowie

Station,

Water-colour,

Mi

9x13

at

Ontario
Inches

1869

EXCURSION TO NIAGARA

WILLIAM ARMSTRONG
Red Rock, looking south on the Nipigon River from near
1 867
the Hudson's Bay Company post, Ontario
Water<olour,

The scenery

Nepigon Bay

of

grandest description. There


like

it

elsewhere

from the east

we

in

is

19%

nothing

Ontario. Entering

pass up a broad

IVh

deep shadows that rest on them bring out


the most distant in clear and full relief.
The time will come when the wealthy

strait,

and can soon take our choiceofdeepand


capaciouschannels, formed by the bold
ridges of the islands that stud the Bay.

men

one

their

Bluffs,

from

thousand
waters,

three

feet

some

hundred

high, rise

of

to

up from

of our great North-west will have

summer residences on these hills


and shores; nor could the heart of man
desire more lovely sites.

the

them bare from lake

inches

summit, others clad with graceful balsams. On the mainland, sloping and
broken hills stretch far away, and the

of the

is

to

G M GRAM
Ocean to Ocean 1873

144

EXCURSION TO NIAGARA

JOHN BAINBRIGCE

PHILIP
Fort Niagara

from Fort Mississauga, Upper Canada

1840
Water-colour,

The town occupies a pretty situation on


the margin, and about twenty feet higher
than the lake, which has so much
encroached upon it by the waves undermining the banks, that batteries which
were thrown up but a few years since, as
near as possible to the margin of the
water, for the laudable purpose of
annoying the enemy's fort on the opposite peninsula, have now nearly disappeared. The common above the town is
intersected with the breastworks and
redoubts of the English and Americans,
aseach party alternately had possession.
The most extensive of them, dignified
with the appellation of Fort George, contains some low wooden decayed barracks; and another below the town, in a

still

6'/2 x

Inches

named

command

of the garrison had retired to

from a tribe of Indians,

his private

residence two miles distant,

more mouldering

Fort Mississagua,

9%

state,

is

the original possessors of the tract of

and the royal

and Fort Erie, thirty


miles distant. These works, which are
now rapidly crumbling into dust, and

firstconveyed to him the newsof the loss

country Ix'tween

possess but the

it

shadow of their former


some trifling ex-

salute fired for the capture

It was built by the French so far


back as 1725, passed into the hands of
the British by the conquest of Canada in

of his post.

was ceded by

greatness, might with

pense be again rendered formidable. At

Statesin

the present time they are only put to

the peace of 1814.

shame by

sand, running out from

the

the neat, white appearance of

American

built exactly

fort

Niagara, which being

opposite the English town,

and not 800 yards distant, mightannoy it


by a very effective bombardment. During the late war it was rendered almost
useless, being surprised by Colonel Murray during the night,

when

145

the officer in

759,

treaty to the

United

794, and restored tothem after

long spit or bar of


it

into the lake,

compels vessels bound up the river to


pass under the guns of Fort Mississagua,
which completely commands the entrance.

E T

COKf

A Subaltern's

Furlough

1833

GEORGE HERIOT

EXCURSION TO NIAGARA

Queenston, Upper Canadci


Water-colour,

From the brow of one of the hills in this


which overhangs the little village
of Queenston, the eye of the traveller is
gratified with one of the finest prospects
thatcan be imagined in nature: you stand
ridge,

amidstaclumpoflargeoaks, alittletothe
left of the road, and looking downwards
perceive, through the branches of the
trees with which the hill is clothed from
the

summit

5x7

lauj

inches

natural state, covered with

one con-

village, the ships

ships are at least

in front

of the

moored in the river; the


two hundred feet below

you, and their masts appear

like

of the trees. Carrying your eye forward,

you may trace the river in all its windings,


and finally see it disembogue into Lake
Ontario, between the town and the fort:
the lake itself terminates your view in this
direction, except merely at one part of
the horizon, where you just get a glimpse
of the blue hills of Toronto. The shore of
the river, on the right hand, remains in its

is

arrested by the

falls

country

now cut in the woods, on the steep banks

is

interspersed with cultivated

and neat farm houses down to the


water's edge. The country beyond the
hills is much lesscleared than that which
lies towards the town of Niagara, on the
fields,

by which they are confined.

navigable part of the

and flourishing
and
grandeur of its situation. Here all the
merchandise and stores for the upper

river.

Queenstown

is

a neat

place, distinguished by the beauty

part of the province are landed from the

which they have been conveyed from Kingston, and transported in


waggons to Chippawa, a distance of ten
miles, the falls, and the rapid and broken
courseof the river, rendering the navigavessels in

Through the States of North America and


the Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada
1799
Travels

slender

reeds peeping up amidst the thick foliage

his attention

presented to the eye through openings

to the base, the tops of the

houses of Queenston, and

and

tinued forest; but on the opposite side the

The scenery from Niagara to Queenstown is highly pleasing, the road lead-

tion

ing along the

summit of the banks of one


most magnificent rivers in the universe; and on ascending the mountain,
which IS rather a sudden elevation from
one immense plain to another, where the

river affords, in

of the

bour

river

becomes

traveller

to

lost

a forest of

becomes

146

for

every

tor vessels, the

surprised.

that

space.

part, a

noble har-

water being deep,

the stream not too powerful, the anchor-

age good, and the banks on either side of


considerable altitude.

view, the

the

proceeds through

oak-trees, until he

impracticable

Between Niagara and Queenstown the

G- HERIOT

Travels Through the

Canadas

f XCURSION

U1\l\C\K\

JAMES PATTISON

COCKBURN

Brock's

Monument, Queenslon, Upper Canada

ca.

1830

Water-colour, 6 x 9V2 inches

It

is

worth while

to stop at

Queenston,

and, having scaled the mountain, as

it is

must have been a proud day when your


met under the disfigured and disjointed column erected on Queenston
heights, to the memor>' of the leader
It

officers

that

ceremony of laymonument to be raised to the memory of General Brock, on Queenston heights, in lieu
of the one destroyed by the American
sympathiser of the name of Lett, one of

must have been "disquieted

the rebel Mackenzie's rag-tag followers.

which is exactly three hundred


and forty-six feet above the Niagara, to
mountthe lofty monument, underwhich
Brock, and M'Donell, his aid-de-camp,
repose. From this lofty station, a panoramic view ofa most singular kind isob-

whose unholy hand despoiled

tained, the eye ranging lor miles over

shrine,

and fell, over mountain, towns,


and river, and over the broad and unlimited expanse of the
blue Ontario.
Beneath you, at the back of the village of
Queenston, and under the heights, is a

within him, "if he witnessed, as probably

called,

forest

meadow
Brock,

with a solitary tree; here

in the

arms of Victory.

fell

In the evening several officers and


gentlemen assembled at the hotel to be in

whom the militia of Upper Canada loved


as a father the gallant, the victorious
Brock; and the soul of the miscreant,

he did, that noble scene. Rebuild


sure foundations!
of your eye,

Guard

it,

it

readiness to attend the

ing the foundation-stone of the

on

as the apple

and inscribe upon it Navy


Pelee, Amherstburgh,

Point

Island,

Hickory Island, Prescott! Yes,

all

those

places where invaders dared to

show

themselves, where "treason looked so

where it could "but peep


would," and acted "little of its

giantlike," but
at

what

it

will."

H BONNVCASTIF

The Canadas

in

;84/

1841

H BONNVCASTLE

The Canadas

in

184

V\
1

[147

t.

KINGSTON

Western Wanderings

1841

85b

WASHINGTON FRIEND

EXCURSrON

The Horseshoe

Falls,

T(J

NIAGARA

Niagara

Falls

ca.

1845

Water-colour, 22 x SOVi inches

To leave out N iagara when you can possibly bring it in would be as much against

from the

the stock-book of travel as to omit the

pyramids are

America.

duel, the steeple-chase, or the escape

to

VV

mad

bull

a thirty-one-and-

sixpenny fashionable novel.

What

the

to Egypl-what Vesuvius is
Naples-what the field of Waterloo has

been

for fifty years to

Niagara
F

to the entire

The

falls

of Niagara surpass in sublimity

on the west or

British side, so

inated from

form, and those of Fort

its

denom-

and Montmorenci, on the

language can afford of that celebrated

Slausser

scene, the most wonderful and awful

ern or American side. The larger island

which the habitable world presents. Nor


can any drawing convey an adequate
idea of the magnitude and depth of the

is about four hundred yards in width,


and the small island about ten yards.
The three falls, with the islands, describe a crescent, and the river beneath
becomes considerably contracted. The

precipitating waters. By the interposition

of two islands, the river

three

It

falls,

was

is

separated into

that of the Great

early in the

month

of September,

three years prior to the time


of,

when

first

Horse-shoe

visited this

now write

famous

spot.

The Niagara season was at its height: the


monster hotels were ringing with song,
music, and dance; tourists were doing
the falls, and touts were doing the
tourists. Newly-marned couples were
conducting themselves
strative

manner

in that

demon-

characteristic of such

breadth of the whole,

east-

at the pitch of the

is

BUTLER

The Great Lone Land

every description which the powers of

Brussels, so

continent of North

1872

which
produced
in the Horse-shoe, and in the American
falls, may be estimated at a mile and a
quarter, and the altitude of the Table
Rock, from whence the precipitation
commences, is one hundred and fifty
waters, including the curvatures
the violence of the current has

feet.

C HERIOT
Travels Through the

Canadas

1807

people in the New World. Buffalo girls


had apparently responded freely to the

own. Shoddy and petroleum were hav-

invitation contained

dollar as though that "almighty article

in their

favourite

nigger melody. Venders of Indian beadwork: itinerant philosophers: cameraobscura men: imitation squaws: freeand
enlightened negroes: guides to go under
the cataract,

over

it;

who

had become the

thin

nigger minstrels had

and

made the place their

148

it,"

spending the

end

of nothing

whittled fine": altogether, Niagara


a

place to be instinctively shunned.

should have been sent

spiritualists, phrenologists,

ing "a high old time of

BUTIER

The Great Lone Land

1872

was

EXCURSION TO NIAGARA

lAMES BUCKNALL

The camp

BUCKNALL ESTCOURT

Water-colour, IVi x lOVi inches

of the

43rd regiment

at

Niagara

Falls,

1838

Upper Canada

6 o'clock am, of

lower vegetation. Within

a mile of their

when

30th June, a sudden order reached the

destination Lundy's Lane

was crossed

Colborne and

While

at a field-day at

43rd directing
to

their

Upper Canada.

immediate removal

Precisely as the clock

The
Ottawa and

a sandy ravine leading

which formed

up to an elevation

the key of the British posi-

their

F-lis

Excellency was met by

Sir

John

George Arthur with


respective staffs. The GovernorSir

General adopted the soothing system,


and was most liberal in his hospitalities.

Reaching the
pretty little village of Drummondville,
and debouching from a straggling grove

Willing, perhaps,

sort of

of chestnuts, a verdant plateau extended,

issued public notice of a review on the

amphibious march by steam where


the river was navigable, by land where
the rapids rendered it impassable and
reached Kingston on Lake Ontario on the

scarped by a precipitous bank some 300


feet in depth, thickly clothed with mag-

principal

struck nine they

left

their barracks.

wing proceeded by

left

the

the Rideau Canal, while the right took the


line of the

St.

3rd of July.

Lawrence, making a

On

the 6th an order

came

to

advance on the Niagara frontier, to occupy a line of country hitherto almostentirely defended by militia and volunteers. With the despatch which had late-

movements the
right wing, accompanied by Sir John Colborne, was embarked the same evening.
ly

characterised their

A detachment of artillery with two


and

a party of

sappers and miners with

campequipage
shipped.

The

guns,

for

1000 men, were also

route

from

Queenstown

to

Niagara was beautiful and exciting; the


foliage of the
artistically

solemn

forests contrasting

with the luxuriance of the

tion in the battle of 1814.

nificent trees. Far

above

their

topmost

first

to astonish,

and af-

terwards to mollify the Yankees,

7th of July

he

in which the 43rd were the


and cards for two

actors

hundred persons

to dinner in the eve-

An immense concourse,

boughsthe mists and sunbow of the Falls


spanned the heavens, and through the

Americans, attended; the ground was

of the

kept by two companies of the 24th Regi-

foliage sparkled the

first

glitter

The word
passed to form open column of companies, the right wing 43rd reached the
greensward just above the table rock;
arms were piled and all rushed to the
edge of the soul-stirring and stupendous
fall
of
'almighty'
cataract -"that
world's

greatest

wonder.

waters."

A few weeks later, all hands were put


on the qui vive by the arrival of Lord
Durham and household. Old Niagara
probably never did, and never will again,
see such a gathering of cocked hats and
radiant uniforms as on this occasion.
I

149 1

ning.

chiefly

ment, and

"a troop of FHer Majesty's


Niagara Lancers-a most excellent and

efficient corps.

The spectators had the enjoyment of a


rapid field-day in Colonel Booth's best
style,

with a liberal allowance of blank

cartridge. In the evening,

all

the invites

betook themselves to the banquet


feast chiefly remarkable for the strange

melange

of guests,

among whom were a

considerable proportion of ladies.


R,

C. A. lEVINCE

Historical Records of the forty-lhird Regiment,

Monmoulhshire

Light Infantry

868

)AMES BUCKNALL BUCKNALL ESTCOUKT

EXCURSION TO NIAGARA

Near Lundy's Lane


Water-colour,

The

Field of Battle of Lundy's

Lane

from the

Falls,

is

in

one mile

the vicinity of a small village

and was the scene of the

hardest contested action during the late

war.

and

burial

ground has been formed

at

5'/2 x

Niagara

7%

Falls,

Upper Canada

The whole of this part of the frontier is a


and fertile country; but, owing to its
long settlement and sad misman-

fine

agement, the
exhausted.

soil

has

become

nearly

did not see any part of

is in meditation upon the


eminence where the British artillery was posted, and where the bodies
of those who fell were buried. The
remaining portion of the field was

America which should prefer as a residence to that which lies between Lakes
Erie and Ontario. It is much sought after
by retired officers, and better class of
emigrants. The majority of the company

purchased

at the hotel

church

rising

after the conclusion of the


peace by an officer who was present in
the action, and who now resides there.

afterwards got into conversation with a

most

and commenced
questions, which
put to a

intelligent negro,

a series of

great

number

of his race, to ascertain

if

during

my stay

selves. ...
five

He

told

me

thousand negroes

large

number

of

Southern

the ruin of their masters

and the

utter

demoralisation of the negroes them-

are either

emancipated, or have taken "French


leave" of their masters.

in the

the

Upper Canada,

whom

as ostler at the inn.

could be brought about without

If

there are twentyin

suggesting any plan by which theeman-

States

who were

the vicinity.

in

they themselves had ever thought of

cipationof their brethren

there consis-

ted of families lately arrived,

making purchases

1838

inches

My friend acted

He was contented

settler

seeks society, he

pilgrimage to the most stupendous natural

curiosity in the world; and,

retirement, he

may have

known them,
I

150

yet

but they were

all

in

if

he wish

perfection,

for the attention of all travellers

is

soen-

that they trouble not themselves with

making

visits,

or intruding

upon those

who have settled down within hearing of


the roar of the cataract.
E, T,

COKE

Subaltern'^ Furlough

833

dead. Providence has kindly implanted


a

contented, uncomplaining disposition

in

the

bosom

to bear

of the negro, enabling him


up against misfortunes which

would break

the spirits of his white-

skinned fellow-mortals.

and happy, though, as he told me, he


in the world no wife, nor
he had

it

tirelyengrossed by the one grand object

was alone

children, nor brothers, nor sisters

may meet a con-

tinued stream of his countrymen on their

H,

C KINGSTON

Western Wanderings

1856

CAROLINE BUCKNALL ESTCOURT

The good

EXCURSION TO NIAGARA

woman of colour"

of

Waler-colour, lO'/j x SVi inches

151

Lundys Lane, Upper Canada

838

HENRY lAMES VVARRE

Brantford,

ROOM TO CROW

Canada West

Pencil drawing, SVi x

840

OVi inches

BRANTFORD

A Town

in

the township of Brantford,

sit-

uated on the Grand River, 23V2 miles

from Hamilton.

crown

in

It

was

1830, and

is

the

The Western road runs through

town.

contains

Brantford

eight

one printer,
two watchmakers,

teen taverns, two druggists,

twelve

groceries,

three tinsmiths, seven tailors, ten shoe-

out by the

churches and chapels,

a placeof consid-

Presbyterian, Catholic,

makers,

Baptist,

makers, two livery stables, one gun-

laid

two miles and


a-half in length, has been constructed
from Brantford to below the falls of the
Grand River, which will be capable of
admitting and allowing vessels drawing
three feet and a-half water to reach the
town. The fall in the river between the
town and the termination of the canal, is
about twenty-three feet, which has been
overcome by means of three locks. During the last two seasons, a steamer ran
regularly three times a-week from the en-

erable business.

$lV2l.

canal,

trance of the canal to Dunnville (fare

viz..

Episcopal,

two Methodist,
Congregationalist, and one for

coloured people; also a Fire Company


with an engine, and a Mechanics' Institute.

A weekly newspaper

is

published

here, the "Brantford Courier."

Population about 2,000. Post Office,

painters,

five

and

Trades.

Three

physicians and surgeons, four lawyers,

one tobacconist, one marble factwo ladies' schools,


two do. for boys, three bank agencies
"B. N. America," "Montreal," and
smith,

"Core."
Taverns. "Clements,"
and "Matthews."
iandAgenl. Jas. R. Buchanan.

"Irish's,"

machine and
two surveyors, two

three grist mills, carding


fulling mill, foundry,

breweries, four distilleries, twenty-one


stores,

one soap and candle factory, four-

152

cabinet

tory, three barbers,

Principal

post daily.
Professions

five

W- H SMITH
Smith's Canadian Gazetteer

1846

RO(

)\\ T()(,K( >\\

'^^ff^^ixA.

iic.

leu

^'^:^^^'*^i^lv^jj^^^^

HENRY )AMESWARRE

Woodstock, Canada West

840

Pencil drawing, 8V2 x IOV2 inches

WOODSTCXZK
The District Town
in

of the Brock District,

the south-west corner ol the township

Two newspapers are published here


weekly, the "Monarch," and "Herald."
Mechanics

of Blandford, thirty-two miles from Lon-

There

don, and forty-six miles from Hamilton,

cricket club.

on

pleasantly situated

a rising

ground

in

the midstof a roll lngcountry.lt forms one

long street of about a mile


is

in length,

and

divided into East Woodstock, and

West Woodstock.
town in the year

became

It

the district

is

Population,

Institute,

and

,085.

Post Office, post every day.

The following Government and disoffices are kept in Woodstock:

trict

district court, sheriff, clerk of

Judge of

two lawyers, one foundry, ten stores,


seven groceries, one bookseller and stationer, five taverns, five cabinet and
chair makers, four waggon makers, two
watchmakers, one soap and candle factory, two livery stables, one glover, one
turner, six blacksmiths, ten

shoemakers,

three bakers, four butchers, four saddlers,

two coopers, one

tinsmith,

840, (before which

peace, judge of surrogate court, registrar

barber, three painters, eight tailors,

time the county of Oxford formed a por-

of ditto, treasurer, inspector of licenses,

printers,

dep-

"Gore."

tion of the

London

District).

sixchurchesandchapels,
(of brick,

organ),

and

in

which

Presbyterian,

It

contains

viz. Episcopal,
is

a tolerable

Baptist,

British

Wesleyan, Canadian Wesleyan, and


Christian. There is a jail andcourt house,
built partly of brick,

and

partly framed.

districtclerk, clerk of district court,

uty

clerk

of crown,

district

superin-

tendent of schools.
Professions

and

one school, one bank agency

Principal Tavern.

"Woodstock

tel."

Trades.

Two

grist

one saw mill, carding machine and


fulling mill, brewery, distillery, two tanneries, four physicians and surgeons.

Land Agent.

J.

F.

Rogers.

mills,

153

one
one

Smith's Canadian Gazetteer

1846

Ho-

On

HENRY lAMESWARRE

RDOMTfKiROW

the

Thames

River

showing the

jail at

London, Canada West

1840

Pencil drawing, 8'/2 x 10y2 inches

The removal of the

seat of

government

may be deemed an

eligible

from Niagara to Toronto, according to


the plan laid down, was only to have

capital of the country; but to

been a preparatory step to another alteration: a new city to have been named
London, was to have been built on the

place

river formerly called

La Trenche, but

sincecalled the Thames, a river running

and here the seat of


governmentwas ultimately to have been
fixed. The spot marked out for the site
into

Lake

St.

Clair;

of the city possesses

vantages.

It

is

many

part

In

better than a wilderness,

to a

and

so far from the populous parts of the province, would be a measure frought with
numberless Inconvenlencies to the
public, and productive apparently of no

of

the

river. In

every direction.

A few

Is

that he
for a

ex-

no means improbable but

by

that this spot

north shore of the river being called

North. This town

struck with

its great natural advantages,


immediately reserved 600 acres

town

plot.

be said to have

settle-

it is

on the River Thames, at the junction of


the townships of Chatham, Raleigh,
Harwich, and Dover East; and at the entrance of McGregor's Creek Into that
river: the portion of It situated on the

was origiGovernor Simcoe, who,


while examining the valley of the
Thames, on arriving at the spot on which
Chatham now stands, was so much

ments have already been made on the


banksof the river, and thetlde of emigration Is setting in strongly towards that
quarter; at a future day, therefore,

Kent;

pleasantly and advantageously situated

nally laid out by

from

province,

CHATHAM
TheCounty Townof the County of

Chatham

essential advantages whatsoever.

ad-

local

whence the water communication


tensive

government immediately

little

situated In a healthy, fertile

country, on a fine navigable


central

seat of

one for the


remove the

fifteen years

The town, however, may

commenced

only about

ago; since which time

progressed rapidly, and

now

it

has

contains

about 1500 Inhabitants; and property


Travels

Through the

the Provinces oi

States of

North America and

Upper and Lower Canada

154

799

has greatly Increased

so.thatasmall town

In

lot,

value, so

much

which atthe first

PHILIP

JOHN BAINBRICGE

fath Street,

KOOMTOGRO

Chatham, Upper Canada

Water-colour, 6 x

8%

838

inches

settlement could have been worth but a

and, during the winter of 1844-5, the

mere trifle, was sold a short time since


a merchant at the enormous advance
750 dollars.

to

"Brothers" was overhauled, enlarged

of

and

This place

was

the rebellion,

a garrison

town during

and contains barracks, but

they are at present unoccupied.

The new road from London to


Amherstburgh passes through the town.
Four-horsed stages, going eastward and
westward, leave Chatham every day.
The steamboat "Brothers," Captain
Eberts,

season,

owned here, and, during the


leaves Chatham for Detroit and

is

Amherstburgh every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, returning on the alternate days. The "London," Captain Van
Allen (the fastest boaton the upper lakes)
meets the "Brothers" at Detroit and continues the route to Buffalo, touching at
the intermediate ports
side.

The "London"

is

on

the

Canadian

a beautiful boat;

and Methodist: also, a


which is well attended, the performers being amateurs; and a cricket

one printing office, one


watchmaker, one gunsmith, eight blacksmiths, three cabinet makers, one hatter,
one tinsmith, two carriage makers, one
foundry, two bakers, one tallow chandler, two asheries, one livery stable, one
booksellerand stationer, two bankagencies (Gore and UpperCanada),one land

club.

agency, three schools.

refitted.

Chatham contains

four churches and

chapels; viz;. Episcopal, Presbyterian,


Secession,
Theatre,

newspaper,

Gleaner,"

is

"Chatham

the

published here every Tues-

day. Town lots of a quarter of an acre, and

park

lots

varying from three to ten acres,

be purchased, the price varying according to situation.

are

still

Principal tavern

"Royal Exchange,"

of Professions

and

Trades.

Five

physicians and surgeons, one lawyer,

one dentist, one steam grist mill, one


waterdo.,twosaw mills, two breweries,
three distilleries, one tannery, ten stores,
fourgroceries, one pottery, one maltster,
six tailors, two saddlers, three shoemak-

155

and stage house, the


at which is a reading

and news room.


Land Agent, Abraham
Stage fare from

to

List

ers, ten taverns,

Steers.

Chatham

to

London,

$3V2: to Detroit, SIVi. Steamboat fare

from

Chatham

to

Detroit,

$2;

to

Amherstburg, S2V2.

Chatham
don, and

is

fifty

thirty-six miles

from Lon-

miles from Detroit.

H SMITH

Smith'i Canadian Gazetteer

1846

ROOM TO CROW

PHILIP

On

JOHN BAINBRIGCE

Chatham, Upper Canada

a bush farm near

Water-colour,

6x10

1838

inches

OPPOSITE

ANONYMOUS

An

oil

well at Bothwell, Ontario

1870

Water-colour, 8Va inches diameter

must now tell you what my husband is


doing on our land. He has let out ten
acres to some Irish choppers who have
established themselves in the shanty for
I

the winter.

They are

to receive fourteen

burnmg,
and fencing in that quantity. The ground
is to be perfectly cleared of every thing
but the stumps; these will take from

dollars per acre for chopping,

seven to nine or ten years to decay; the

much
longer. The process of clearing away the
stumps is too expensive for new beginpine, hemlock,

and

fir

remain

ners to venture upon, labour being so

for spring crops,

uncleared land, usually underbrush

burning of that which

is,

cut

down

all

the small timbers

(that

and

brushwood), while the leaf is yet on


them; this is pi led in heaps, and the windfallen trees are chopped through in
lengths, to be logged

up

in

the spring with

The latter end of


the summer and the autumn are the best
seasons for this work. The leaves then
become quite dry and sear, and greatly
the winter's chopping.

assist in the

ing off the

important business of burn-

heavy timbers. Another reason

when the snow

some

cannot be appropriated to any


but indispensable work. The working

depth, the light timbers cannot be cut

very short on account of the

close to the ground, or the dead branches

high that

season

it

is

length of time the frost remains

on

the

ground. With theexception of chopping

We shall have about three acres ready

very little can be done. Those that


understand the proper management of
trees,

is,

that

has fallen to

and other incumbrances collected and


thrown in heaps.

156

near the

provided
is

we get a good

already chopped

house, -this will be


pumpkins, Indian corn,

site of the

sown with

oats,

and potatoes: the other ten acres


ready

for putting in a

you see

it

will

reap a harvest.

will

be

crop of wheat. So

be a long time before we


We could not even get in

spring-wheat early enough to

come

to

perfection this year.

We

two cows in the


expense during
the spring, summer, and autumn; and by
the winter we shall have pumpkins and
shall try to get

spring, as they are

little

oat-straw for them.

C P TRAILL

The Backwoods of Canada

For

many

years to

come

Ontario, will

and that only


her forests and open her mines

The

East

ROOM

ii)r,Kin\

Branch of the Sydenham would


up to Strathroy, a prosperous

and London. There


decanted from tank-carts

refineries in Petrolea

"Crude"

require emigration, for that,

lead us

will level

manufacturing town of Middlesex, on

into a vast subterranean rotunda of boiler

highway of commerce between London and Sarnia. The North Branch takes
us into the heart of Lambton, a rich cham-

plate,

the bottom. By treatment with acid

paign, dotted over with cosy villages.

"light." Distillation at carefully regulat-

which

are as yet in their infancy,

the

THE OIL WELLS

alone being almost an inexhaustible


source of wealth to a young country. In
1870, the Enniskillen Oil Company,
their wells in Petrolia,

at

51 miles north

west of London, employed 5,825 men,


and 750 horses, and since then other
wells have been opened in the locality.
The total numberof men engaged in miningoperations in 1871, being6,495, and
820 horses. Ontario possesses almost all
the most useful minerals exceptcoal, but
that is found in abundance in Nova Scotia and
in Manitoba, and when the
Canada Pacific Railway is built it will be
brought

through

without

difficulty.

from

both

places

we

way through

reach

groves of

Enniskillen the

in

heartof Petroleum Land. This Township,


in

860, became famous by the discov-

first in Canada.
By some dark alchemy the marine
animals and plants embedded in the
shales and encrinal limestone that form
the base of the "Hamilton" formation,
havedistilledoutthecomplexmixtureof

ery of a flowing well, the

things that

we

gather up

in

alkali,

is

and the sand and water subside to


and
"sweetness"

no dale

157

a series of valu-

able products thigoline, naptha, kerosene, lubricating

oil, etc.

Heavier Cana-

dian petroleums are rich inparaffine; the

snowy whiteness

of this beautiful sub-

stance contrasts strongly with the black,


garlicky fluid from

the single

C, M.

CRANTlEOl

Picturesque Canada

divorced from

is

ed temperatures yields

word, Petroleum. Crude oil is drawn


chiefly from the wells around Petrolea,
Oil Springs, and Oil City, and wafted

with a very considerable whiff lothe

OLEAHy

Traveh and Experiences in Canada

Threading our
derricks,

the

which

it

is

extracted.

ROOM TO CROW

-"*?!**

PHILIP

lOHN BAINBRIGGE

lake, the banks, the

grouping of the

were all more beautiful than


before; and so far from the ride seeming
long, we dropped into the quiet little
naval establishment at the mouth of the

trees,

CrandRiver our ultimate object long


before

it

appeared

that

we had come

small military party

here, under the

were stationed

command

whose unhappiness

at

of an officer,
this

interested our feelings not a


things,

it is

said, are

ison; but surely

it

moment
little.

All

judged of by compar-

required

some

elastic-

ity in the imagination to understand how


such a wretched abode as the Grand
River station could be deemed a desir-

mouth

of the

Grand

River, Lake Erie,

Upper Canada

840

seemed

honest soldier-nurse plunged up to his

knees in the mud; while the poor urchin


was unconsciously augmenting the mis-

leaving

eries of the night

it.

it

Some months

previous

to

our

visit,

party of soldiers had been ordered from

Quebec
in

war.

the

to this

The flag-staff was struck, the works


gone to decay, the store-house nearly

peace, as contradistinguished from the

at

inches

able residence. Yet so

friend,

empty. Every thing we saw, in short,


bespoke the stillness and neglect of

6'/2 x 9'/2

-c -_

worthy officer, and his poor family, who


were in great distress at the necessity of

nearly to the journey's end.

rattling activity of iron

Ruins of the old naval depot


Water-colour,

The

to this

remote

station,

and our

who considered himself fortunate

getting

the

appointment,

accordingly with

his

family,

set
in

off

high

The proverbial miseries of a protracted voyage across Lake Ontario, in a


badly found sloop, and the ten times
more harassing journey through the
forest; were submitted to with patience.
Not far from the Grand River, the party
were benighted, and such was the jolting
of the carriage over the Corduroy roads,
that to save the little life of one of their
children,onlythree weeks old, it was lifted out of the carriage and carried in one
of the men's arms in the dark, through the
woods, though at every third step the
spirits.

158

by crying with cold and


baggage
waggons brought fresh cares in the shape
of a miserable account of broken
hunger.

The

arrival of the

crockery an irreparable misfortune

in

woods! Butas Isaid before, they


were far too happy to feel themselves
fixed at last, to worry one another with
the back

unavailing complaints, but turned about


cheerfully to

make the most of their situa-

tion for the next

morning

we

few years. On the very


however, counter

arrived,

orders reached the station; the regiment,


it

seems, was ordered from Canada

England, and another officer

course

appointed

to

was

supersede

to

of

our

afflicted host.
B,

HALL

Travels in North

1828

1829

America

in the Years

1827 and

FRONTIERS

The Royal Navy played an important pan


in bringing to

public notice the farther

reachesoftheeighteenth and nineteenth


century world. When Captain lames

Cook

Nootka Sound on the


Northwest coast in 1778, the

sailed into

Pacific

English artist John


to

make

Webber was on board

a visual record.

When

John

Sir

Franklin set out overland for the polar

was
Robert Hood. But when he was killed by
a guide in the Barrens, George Back took
coast, the expedition's official artist

over

his official duties.

The Hudson's Bay Company had


since 1670 been successfully challenging the Arctic ice floes to supply

its

out-

posts in the northern interior. Peter Rin-

disbacher, who, with other Swiss colonists, travelled

has

left

on one such supply

ship,

us unique water-colours of these

isolated

hbc trading

hall a continent, the

Canadian West

posts.

As master of

hbc controlled the

until the

middle of the

nineteenth century, by which time the


pressuresof American expansion had be-

gun

to threaten

its

interests. In

response

to this threat in Oregon, the British


government sent Henry lames Warreand

a fellow officer across the continent to

mouth

Columbia River in
1845-6. The governmentwas persuaded

the

of the

to establish a garrison at Fort

Carry

in

1846 and 1857; Hampden Moody and


George Seton were both personally involved as
In

officers.

1846, with the loss of the Oregon

Territory, the Hudson's Bay Company


was forced to concentrate its activities in
what became the colony of British
Columbia. The discovery of gold on the
Fraser River in 1858 and the Cariboo in
1862 attracted worldwide attention. The
ensuing rush of prospectors and adventurers, which included W.C.R. Hind,
could not help but be harmful to the
interests of the company.
Adventurers were not the only people
interested in the West: it was attracting
the attention of the Canadian government as an area of settlement, and they
sentexploratory expeditions in 1857 and
1858 to report back on the potential of

159

the region westof Lake Superior.


a

member

It

was as

of the 1857 expedition that

W.H.E. Napier had the opportunity to


Confed-

seeSt. Boniface cathedral. After

West
Columbia was invited
to join the eastern provinces, and was
visited by Lord and Lady Dufferin to
impress upon the people the advantages
of Canadian connections. These same
advantages were promoted by G.M.
Grant in Ocean to Ocean.
With theseltlementofthe Westandthe
turning over of Rupert's Land to the
Canadian government in 1869, the old
economy of the interior dwindled, and
eration, the official interest in the

increased. British

the

already

tenuous position of the

Indian was once again threatened. Lord

Lome's attempts to placate the Indians


West in 1881 are ironic

of the Far

when we

consider that the expressed

purpose of his trip was to attract immigrants from the Old Country, who
would put the entire West under the
plough at the expense of the original
inhabitants

'

way of life.

THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

During the time was at this village, Mr.


Webber, who had attended me thither,
made drawings of every thing that was
I

curious, both withinand withoutdoors.

had also an opportunity of inspecting,

more narrowly,

the construction of the

houses, household furniture, and uten-

and the striking peculiarities of the


customs and modes of living of the
sils,

inhabitants.

I.COOK

A Voyage (o

the Pacific

Ocean

JOHN WEBBER
Indian women weaving at

785

Nootka on the

Northwest coast of North America


April

1778

Water-colour, J'h x

Their

5%

inches

common dress is a flaxen garment,


ornamented on the upper
narrow strip of fur, and, at the

or mantle,

edge by a
loweredge, byfringesortassels. Itpasses
under the left arm, and is tied over the
right shoulder,

by a string before, and

one behind, near its middle; by which


means both arms are left free; and it
hangs evenly, covering the left side, but
leaving the right open, except from the
loose part of the edges falling

when

unless

the mantle

is

upon

it,

fastened by a

ing upon the shoulders,

it

covers the arms

elbows, and the body as far as the


waist. Their head is covered with a cap,
to the

of the figure of a truncated cone, or like a


flower-pot,

made of fine

matting, having

ornamented with a
round or pointed knob, or bunch of
leathern tassels; and there is a string that
passes under the chin, to prevent its
blowing off.
Besides the above dress, which is

the top frequently

common

to both sexes,

the

men

fre-

girdle (of coarse matting or woollen)

quently throw over their other garments

round the waist, which

the skin of a bear, wolf, or sea-otter,

Over

is

often done.

which reaches below the


worn a small cloakof the same

this,

knees,

is

substance, likewise fringed at the lower

shape this resembles a round dish


cover, being quite close, except in the
part. In

middle, where there is a hole just large


enough to admit the head; and then, rest-

with the hair outward, and

tie

it,

as a

cloak, near the upper part, wearing

and

it

sometimes
behind. In rainy weather, they throw a
coarse mat about their shoulders. They
have also woollen garments, which,
however, are little in use. The hair is

sometimes

before,

160

commonly worn hanging down loose;


but some, when they have no cap, tie in
it

bunch on the crown of the head. Their


dress, upon the whole, is convenient,
and would by no means be inelegant,
were it kept clean. But as they rub their
a

bodies constantly over with a red paint,


of a clayey or coarse ochry substance,

mixed with oil, their garments, by this


means, contracta rancid offensive smell,
and a greasy nastiness. So that they make
a very wretched dirty appearance; and
what is still worse, their heads and their
garments swarm with vermin, which, so
depraved is their taste for cleanliness, we
used to see them pick off with great composure, and eat.

COOK

A Voyage

to the Pacific

Ocean

785

leifPACinC

NORTHWEST

JOHN WEBBER
Members

of Captain

lames Cook's

Expedition hunting sea lions on


the Northwest coast of America

1778
Water-colour, 6V2 x 12 inches

The face, throat,


and breast were of a yellowish white, or
very light brown colour, which, in many
of the skins, extended the whole length of
the belly. It had six cutting teeth in each

ablequantity of that substance; and both

taken from the accounts of the Russian

jaw; two of those of the lower jaw being

or sooty colour; but have then a greater

expeditions

very minute, and placed without, at the

quantity of very fine fur, and scarcely any

there had

base of the two middle ones. In these circumstances, it seems to disagree with

to

havechosen

to refer to thisclass the sea-

mostly

otter, as living

the water.

in

might have been sufficient


tioned, that this animal
it

fully

is

described

adventurers

in

to

have men-

abounds

here, as

in different

their

Eastward from Kamtschatka,

It

if

books,

not been asmal difference in one that we


I

saw.

We,

for

some

doubts, whether the

time, entertained

many

which

skins

the natives brought, really belonged to


this

animal; asouronly reason

of thatopinion,

colour,

for

was founded on

and finenessof the

fur;

while before our departure,

being

the size,

till

a short

when

wholeone, that had been just killed, was


purchased from some strangers who
came to barter. ... It was rather young,
weighing only twenty-five pounds; of a
shmingor glossy black colour; but many
of the hairs being tipt with white, gave ita

greyishcastatfirstsight.

in that

seem

colour and state the sea-otters

to

their full

remain,

till

they have attained

growth. After

they lose the

that,

black colour, and assume a deep brown

long hairs. Others, which

we suspected

nothavingtheouter toesof the hind feet


skirted with a membrane. There seemed

were of a chestnut
brown; and a few skins were seen that
had even acquired a perfectly yellow
colour. The fur of these animals, as men-

also a greater variety in the colour of

tioned

those found by the Russians; and also

the skins,

than

is

describers of the

in

be

still

in

older,

the Russian accounts,

mentioned by the

tainly softer

Russian

others

sea-otters.

and

we know

is

finer than that of


of;

cer-

any

and, therefore, the

this part of the

continent of

These changes of colour certainly take

discovery of

place at the different gradations of

North America, where so valuable an article of commerce may be met with, can-

life.

The very young ones had brown hair,


which was coarse, with very little fur underneath; but those of the size of the entire animal, which came into our possession,

and

just

described, had a consider-

Ibl

not be a matter of indifference.

COOK

A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean

1785

THEARCTtCCHAlLENCE

Sc

The meeting of the Hudson's Bay Company ships, the Prince of Wales
and the Eddyslone, carrying the Swiss immigrants, and Captain
)ulyl6, 1821
W.E. Parry's ships, the Hec/a and the Cr/per

PETER RINDISBACHER

Water-colour,

On the

3th,

exercised

both ships' companies were

in firingat a

targeton the ice, as

well for the purpose of giving

them oc-

who were our


same afternoon, we

cupation, as of finding out


best shots.

On

the

saw two ships beset to the northward,


which we supposed to be those bound to
the Hudson's Bay factories. They were
joined the next day by a third ship, which
afterwards proved to be, as

we

conjec-

tured, the Lord Wellington, having

on

Red River. The ice


being somewhat more slack about the
ships on the 1 5th, we cast off and made
board

sail at

settlers for the

running with
about a mile to the wbN,, we

nine

difficulty

p.m.; but after

were obliged

to

make

berg near us. Here

elevenPM,
the N

E.,

a small

we remained

till

the wind blowing a gale from

when the

and violently

to

ice closing in

away

suddenly

leeward of the berg,

forced the ships against


carrying

fast to

it,

and was near

the Hecla's bowsprit by

8'/2 x

2'A inches

The Fury also received a


heavy "nip," which, lifting her abaft,
made her timbers crack a good deal
about the quarters, butno material injury
wassustained.Toavoid, however, a repthe pressure.

hundred and
River,

sixty settlers for the

principally foreigners,

Red

of both

chanceamongthe loose iceforthe rest of


the night, which was dusky about mid-

now been
and had been
drifted about in various directions at no
small risk to the ship. Mr. Davidson considered that he had arrived here rather
tooearly for advancing to the westward,
and strongly insisted on the necessity of

night.

first

The ice being rather less close on the


morning of the 16th, we made sail to the
westward, at 7.45 a.m., and continued
"boring" in that direction the whole day,
which enabled us to join the three
strange ships. They proved to be, as we
had supposed, the Prince of Wales, Eddystone, and Lord Wellington, bound to
Hudson's Bay. Isenta boat to the former,

we could hope to make any


progress; a measure, theexpediency of

etition of this

occurrence,

and allowed the ships

to request Mr.

we

to

cast off,

take

their

Davidson, the master,

come

to

aboard, which he immediately


From him we learned that the Lord
Wellington, having on board one
did.

162

sexes and every age, had

twenty days among the

ice,

getting to the northward, or in-shore,

before

which
tomed

is

well

the Prince of
ters for

the

known

to

all

those accus-

to the navigation of icy seas.

Wales we

our friends

in

sent our last

By
let-

England; and took

same opportunity

to

acquaint the

Secretary of the Admiralty with the pro-

ceedings of the Expedition up

to this

date.

PARRY

lournal of 3

Second Voyage
1 824

Nortb-West Passage

for the

Discovery of a

ROBERT

HOOD

The

first

portage

THE ARCTIC CHAUENCe

Franklin overldnd expedition making a


Trout Fall
September 27, 1819

at

Water-colour,

Knee

Lake

towards

becomes narrower, and

its
its

upper

end

rocky shores

are broken into conical and rounded


eminences, destitute of soil, and of
course devoid of trees. We slept at the
western extremity of the lake, having

come during the day nineteen

miles and
on a 5 w. course.
We began the ascent of Trout River
early in the morning of the 27th, and in
a half

10x15

the course of the

inches

day passed three por-

tages and several rapids. At the

first

these portages the river falls between

rocks about sixteen

feet,

and

It is

of

two

neces-

sary to launch the boat over a precipitous

rocky bank.

This cascade

is

which

boatmen are much


The second portage, in partic-

the feet of the

lacerated.

ular, obtains the the expressive

Knife Portage.

to-day

was

name

of

The length of our voyage

three miles.

named

and the beauty of the scenery


for Mr. Hood's pencil.
The rocks which form the bed of this river
areslaty, and present sharp fragments, by
Trout-Fall,

affordeda subject

163

FRANKIIN

NarfativeofalournevtotbeShoresofthePolarSea.

inlheYears t8l9. 20,21, and22

1823

THE ARCTIC CHALLENGE

GEORGE BACK

Fort Franklin, the headquarters of the second Franklin expedition


overland to the Polar Sea, showing Bear Lake
Autumn 1 825

Water-colour, 5Vi x 8Vi inches

whole was inclosed

TRANSACTIONS AT FORT FRANKLIN, 1825-2b

from the water, and Mr. Dease was deter-

were added, and

Mr. Dease, having passecJ the winter of

mined in the selection of the spot on


which our residence was to be erected,

by the stockading of the original fort,


which we found highly serviceable in
skreening us from the snow-drift, and

824-25

arrived

at

the Big Island of Mackenzie,

here

with

fifteen

Canadian

voyageurs, Beau lieu, the interpreter, and

fourChipewyan hunters, on the twentyseventhof)uly, 825; which, onaccount


of the drifting of the ice, was as soon as he
1

could, with safety, ascend the Bear Lake


River. Several of the Dog-Rib Indians
were on the spot, which enabled him to
take immediate steps towards procuring
a supply ofdried meat for our winter use,
as well as of fresh meat for present consumption. It having been ascertained
that the Rein-deer are most abundant in

the north-east quarter of the lake, during

months of August and September, a


select party of Indians was despatched

the

to

hunt thereabout, under the direction

of the interpreter,

who

took a large ca-

noe for the purpose of bringing home the


produce of their hunt. Other men were
sent to inform the Hare Indians of our
wish to purchase any meat they might
bring to theestablishment. Ourprincipal
subsistence, however,

was to be derived

by its proximity to that part of the lake


where the fish has usually been most
abundant. The place decided upon was
the site of an old fort belongmg to the
North-Wesl Company, which had been
abandoned many years; our buildmgs

much

being required of a
derived very
als.

little

The wood

having been

in the

all

larger size,

benefit from

cut

its

immediate

down

we

materivicinity

for fuel

by the

former residents, the party was obliged

convey the requisite timber in

rafts

to

from a

considerable distance, which, of course,

occasioned trouble and delay. We


found, however, on our arrival, all the
buildings

in

habitable state,

the

but

wanting many internal arrangements to


fit them for a comfortable wmter residence. They were disposed so as to form
three sides of a square, the officers' house

men on
house for the interpreter's family, and the store on the
left. A blacksmith's shop and meat store
being

the

in

the centre, those for the

right,

with

164

wintry

blasts.

the

The

officers'

dwelling

measu red forfy-fou r feet, by twenty-four,


and contained

a hall

and four apart-

ments, beside a kitchen. That of the

men

was thirty-six feet by twenty-three, and


was divided into three rooms. These
buildings were placed on a dry sandy
bank, about eighty yards from the lake,
and twenty-five feet above it; at the distance of half a mile in our rear, the ground
rose to the height of one hundred and fifty
feet, and continued in an even ridge, on
which, though the timber had been
felled, we found plentyof small trees for
fuel. This ridge bounded our view to the
north; and to the west, though confined
to less than two miles, the prospect was
pretty, from its embracing a small lake,
and the mouth of a narrow stream that
flowed in at its head. Our southern view
commanded the south-west arm of Bear
Lake, which is here four miles wide, and
not deeper than from three to five

THE ARCTIC CHAllENCE

0^<rA.te-te/^/^

GEORGE BACK
Elsahwiilnd,

one of the native

1826

retainers of the Franklin party

Water-colour, 5Vi x 8V4 inches

fathoms, except

in the

channel of the

which conveys its waters to the


Mackenzie. We had also, in front, the
Clark-hill, a mountain about thirty-six
miles distant, which was always visible
river,

in

clear weather.

was great, we saw


hills,

belonging

from Clark-hill

When

the refraction

the tops of

to the

some other

range thatextends

to the rapid in

Bear Lake

to five feet in girth,

fifty

to

Richardson ascer-

the necessary fishing implements;

some

not

sound state, were


upwards of one hundred and thirty years
old; while others, which were not much
greater in size, had two hundred and fifty
rings, but these were decayed at the
of them, in a

heart.

The officers had done me the honour,

Immediately under the sandy

which

the

house stood, there

is

soil

on

bed of

tenacious bluish clay, of unknown thick-

which, even

August

and

in

the

September,

months of
was firmly

frozen at the depth of twenty-one inches

No rocks were exposed


any part, and wherever the surface had
been torn up, a clayey soil appeared.

previous to my arrival, of giving the


of Franklin to the fort,
ful

pleasure

which

name

felta grate-

in retaining at their desire,

had intended naming it Fort


number of persons
Reliance. The
belonging to the establishment amount-

though

from the surface.

ed

in

including Mr. Dease; nineteen British

Many

boulder stones of granite, lime-

stone, sand-stone,

and

trap rocks,

were

to fifty:

consisting of live officers,

seamen, marines, and voyagers; nine


Canadians; two Esquimaux; Beaulieu,

and four Chipewyan

hunters;

three

scattered about the lake, not far from the

women, six children, and one Indian lad;

shore.

besides

The

trees at

some

distance from our

seven miles distance from the fort, to


which parties were sent, provided with

tained, by counting the annual rings, that

River.

ness,

and were from

fifty-five feet high. Dr.

few

infirm

Indians,

who

consisted of black and white spruce,

though a few
of the better grown measured from four

and

larch, generally small,

thirty

persons were

and

left

to

reside at the principal establishment.

From

fifteen to

twenty nets were kept

in

under the superintendence of Pascal


Cote, an experienced fisherman, who
had two assistants. These were placed
opposite the house, and towards the end
use,

of

summer, and

in

autumn, they yielded


hundred fish, of

daily from three to eight

Salmon of
and occasionally some
trout, tittameg, and carp. Four Dog-Rib
Indians, who were engaged to hunt the
Rein-deer in the neighbourhood of the
fort, from want of skill, contributed very
little fresh meat to our store. Augustus
and Ooligbuck employed themselves in

the kind called "the Herring

Bear

Lake,"

the same service, but from not being accustomed to hunt in a woody country,
they were not more successful.

required temporary support. This party


I

fort

more than

was

far

too large to gain subsistence by

fishing at

one

two houses
constructed at four and

station only;

were, therefore,

165

FRANKLIN

N^rnitive of a

Second Expedition

to the Shores of

the Polar Sea in the Years 1825, 182b.

1828

and 1827

THE ARCTIC CHALLENGE

1
GEORGE BACK
ABOVE
KiCHT

BELOW

1826
ceremonial dance ol the Hare Indians, Rupert's Land
Egheechololle, one ot the native retainers ol the Franklin party
Cokwonayea-bethah, one of the native retainers of the Franklin parly
Water-colours, 5 'A x 8V4 inches

^'i^^r<5c^<Tt;2r*;5^

t^cr^-.rf*-liJ*^S& ttfS^ ^/i^tyt^t^M^


'

k,

ifab

THE ARCTIC CHAllENCE

OWEN

STANLEY
|ulyI4, 1837

H. M.S. Terror at sunrise

Water-colour, 4Vi x 6Vi inches


luly

Though

13th.

every direction,

we

was

by the discov-

main chains. The detached portion,


on which were two men, (a third being in
the dingy, close to them), was instantaneously splintered into three pieces, two
of which, singularly enough, were
separately occupied by the persons just
mentioned, who, standing steadily on
the whirling and heaving ice, thus

more down,

violently discarded, gave a hearty cheer,

there

ice

continued to

in

drift

about a quarter of a mile an hour. Some


small calves found their way from
beneath our clog, and it was with great
satisfaction that we contemplated the
increased breadth of the saw line
satisfaction not lessened

ery that the ship had settled

now being abaft thirteen feet

her draught

and forward twelve feet


eight. Neither, with the incessant working of one pump, had the water accumulated in the well beyond eleven
inches. At 9*' a.m. there was a moderate
breeze from the westward with a thin
mist, and, to our unaccustomed eyes a

eight inches,

sight

almost marvellous, a gentle swell

on an apparently unbroken surface. It


wasthought the agitation, slight as it was,
might crack or break the ice alongside;
but as

it

proved otherwise, two warps

the

while their companion, having

lost his

balance from the sudden jerking of the


at full length,

dingy, lay stretched

and

grasping the gunwhale on each side. The

cheering however was turned to astonishment, as they watched the ship

slowly rising and heeling over to port.

We on board had
counter

beginning

to

been surprised that no


and were

occurred,

action

wonder

that the vessel did

not recover her equilibrium, but were


now startled by the conviction that she

was gradually going

over; and the great

impossible to

fixed to ice anchors, and leading toeither

inclination rendering

extremity of the ship, were

stand on deck, every one clung on to

tached

at a

firmly at-

favourable angle for separat-

and entirely disuniting the entire


mass; however, while we were in the act
of heaving a powerful strain on the
ing

warps.

It

suddenly split diagonally from a


point about fifteen paces

windward

it

as he best could.

Then

it

was

we

beheld the strange and appalling


spectacle of what may be fitly termed a
submerged berg, fixed low down with

one end

to the ship's side,

other, with the purchase of a long lever,

from the starboard bow, along its outer


edge, to somewhere near the after part of

advantageously placed at a right angle


with the keel, was slowly rising towards

167

pened

Meanwhile, those

who hap-

be below, finding every thing


rushed or clambered on deck,

to

falling,

where they saw the ship on her beamends, with the lee boats touching the
water, and

felt

that a

few moments only

trembled between them and eternity. Yet

was no confuwere clewed up and


lowered; fresh men from former crews
were stationed in the boats, which again
were rather unhooked than lowered; the
barge was hoisted out; and with a
promptitude and presence of mind
which shall ever remember with admiration, the whole five were provisioned
and filled with arms, ammunition, and
clothing, and veered astern clear of
danger. The pumps were never quitted,
and though expectingthat the ship might
capsize, yet the question of "Does the
leak gain on us?" was asked, and when
answered n the negative, there was sti a
manifestation of hope. Our fate, however, yet hung in suspense, for not in the
awful

in that

sion; the

crisis there

sails

smallestdegree did the ship right; happily for

us there

was

a dead calm,

which

permitted us to examine the berg.

while the

hummocky

the surface.

C BACK
Narrative of an Expedition in H.M.S. Terror...

1836-37

1838

THE ARCTIC CHAlLENGf

THOMAS MITCHELL
The

return of the sun at Discovery Bay,


Ellesmere Island

March
Water-colour,

The long

arctic

1,
1

1876
x

winter,

8% inches

with

un-

its

paralleled intensityandduration of dark-

ness produced by an a bsence of su n ight


I

42 days, was passed by each individual on board with much cheerfulness


and contentment. Owing to the sameness in the daily routine, which, when
for

looking into futurity, isthoughttoentaila

long duration of dreary monotony, the


time, in reality, passed with great rapidi-

and in January, when the first glimmering increase in the mid-day twilight
began to lengthen sensibly day by day,
the want of light was scarcely noticed by
any one; and not until the sun actual lyreturned on the 1st March did we in any
ty,

way

realize the intense darkness.

NARES

Aictk Expedition 1875-76

168

1877

PETEK KINDISBACHEK

THEHUOSON-SBAYCOMPANVINTHE WEST

York Fdclory, ihe Hudson's Bay

Company post on Hudson's Bay

1821

Water-colour, b'A \ 8V2 inches

York factory

is

the principal cJepolof the

Northern department, from vk'hence

all

and
where all the returns of the department
are collected and shipped for England.
As may be supposed, then, the establishment is a large one. There are always
between thirty and forty men resident at
the post, summer and winter; generally
four or five clerks, a postmaster, and a
skipper for the small schooners; and the
whole is under the direction and superintendence of a chief factor, or chief trader.
As the winter is very long, nearly eight
months, and the summer consequently
very short, all the transport of goods to,
and returns from, the interior, must necessarily be effected as quickly as possithe supplies lor the trade are issued,

ble. The consequence is, that great


numbers of men and boats are constantly
arriving from inland, and departing
again during the summer; and, as each

brigade

is

commanded

trader, or clerk, there

by a chief factor,

is

a constant suc-

within high stockades, and built on the

banks of Hayes River, nearly five miles


its mouth. The houses are all of

from

wood, and of course have no pretension


to architectural beauty; but their clean

whiteappearence, and

regularity,

havea

cession of new faces, which, after a long

very pleasing effect

and dreary winter, during which the


inhabitants never see any stranger,
renders the summer months at York factory the most agreeable part of the year.
The arrival of the ship from England, too,
delights them with letters from home,
which can only be received twice a year.
The fort (as all establishments in the
Indian country, whether small or great,

the front gate stand four large brass field-

are called)

is

a large square,

should

think about six or seven acres, inclosed

u>q

on

the eye. Before

pieces; but these warlike instrumentsare

only used

for the

purpose of saluting the

on her arrival
and departure, the decayed state of the
carriages rendering it dangerous to load
the guns with a full charge.
ship with blank cartridge,

R M. BALLANTVNE

//uc/son'sBay

1848

THE HUDSON'S

BAYCOMPANV

Norway House,

PETER RINDISBACHER

IN

THE WEST

Hudson's Bay Company post on Lake Winnipeg

1821

Water-colour, 6V4 x 8V2 inches

Nearly eighteen days

we

Factory,

arrived

after

we

left

safety

in

York

at

the

depote of Norway House.


This fort

is

builtatthe

a flat, grassy park, or green,

picturesque and

mouth of a small

Spread out
the

den, composed chiefly of sand,

three or four boats

arrived; a

often

farther off,

on the

rising

ground, stands a dark and almost imperceptible wigwam, the small wreath of

white smoke issuingfrom the top proving

Indians amuse themselves with various


games,orreclineupon the grass, basking

large,

like a

strange excres-

Lake,

the other side of them.

On

the top of

these rocks stands a flag-staff as a beacon


to

guide the

is

so ingeniously hid

traveller; for

Norway House

in a

hollow

cannot be seen from the lake


almost touches the wharf.

till

that

it

the boat

that

in

it

is

inhabited;

the sunshine.

Behind the
forest,

its

fort

stretches the

outline broken here

thick

and there

bycuttingsoffirewoodorsmall clearings
for

farming.

human

beings,

who

BALLANTYNE

Hudson's Bay

170

and

man-

rested here awhile

son's Bay, the distant regions of

in a

HudM'Ken-

ere they started for the shores of

of Oregon.

On the left side of the building extends

being

zie's River, or the

its

Bay; so that, during the spring and summermonths, allthe brigadesof boatsand
canoes from every part of the northern
department must necessarily pass it on
their way to York Factory with furs; and
as they all return in the autumn, and
some of the gentlemen leave their wives
and families for a few weeks till they return to the interior, it is at this sunny
season of the year quite a gay and bustling place; and the clerk's house in
which
lived was often filled with a
strange and always noisy collection of

up between the fort and Playgreen


which stretches out to the horizon

out

from

ner the gate to the on ly route to Hudson's

rugged mass of rocks

cence.

juts

also an agreeable

is

interesting place,

scene.

tent of the chief factor, lately


little

Norway House

may be seen

on the river bank,


and a north canoe are
hauled up; and just above them a
numberofsunburntvoyageursandafew

from the stockades

on

snowy

is

interesting

to dry in the sun,

and sluggish stream, known bythe name


of Jack River. The houses are ranged in
the form of a square; none of them
exceed one storey in height, and most of
them are whitewashed. The ground on
which it stands is rocky, and a small gar-

rises

upon which,

during the summer months, there

1848

still

more

distant land

THE HUDSON'S BAY

COMPANY

THE WEST

IN

7^/

HENRY lAMES WARRE

The Hudson's Bay Company post


Pen and ink drawing,

two

the

C)t

great

impecuniosity

the
birth

Hudson Bay Company

the

to,

monopolies which
Charles ii gave

ot

alone survives, but to-day the monopoly is

are

and

one

of fact,

now

free to

and not of law.


come and go,

and gather

sell

Northern

territory,

furs in

All

men

to trade

the great

and

but distance

was

the

monarch

man must

4'/4 x 7'/2

of his island, or (he

From Pembina on Red River

London
From the King's Posts to the
farther than

to Fort

from Paris to

An-

as great a

is

distance as from

is

Fort Ellice near the Assineboine River

Mecca.
Banks
Samarcand,
to

Pelly

and yet to-day throughout

that

im-

who would

mense region the Company is king.


And what a king! no monarch rules his
subject with half the power of this Fur
Company. clothes, feeds, and utterly

faraway

maintains nine-tenths of

climate raise

more formidable

barriers

against strangers than law or protection

could devise. Bold would be the trader


carry his goods to the
Mackenzie River; intrepid
would be the voyageur who sought a
profit

from the lonely shores of the

Locked in their fastand distance, these

great Bear Lake.

nesses

ice

of

It

present, the great fur preserve of the

of the great Slave Lake.

Hudson

Bay

Dwellers

within the limits of European states can


ill

comprehend

over which

sway.

the vastness of territory


Fur

this

Company

holds

possession of the
cession of

title

Twice

in

the

comes from the outside


world news many, many months old
news borne by men and dogs
through 2000 miles of snow; and yet
year news

all

that covers the wild Indian in his cold

as

much

Company,

to

desolate shores

Canada, as Crusoe

still

is

like the

even there the gun that brings down the


moose and the musk-ox has been
forged in a London smithy; the blanket

say holds sway, for the north of

North America

subjects.

than the barren grounds of Fort Provi-

dence; around

Company.

its

From the Esquimaux at Ungava to the


Loucheaux at Fort Simpson, all live by
and through this London Corporation.
The earth possesses not a wilder spot

remote and friendless solitudes of the


North must long remain, as they are at

in

despite

the

171

1845

inches

be the owner of the moon.

derson on the Mackenzie

J^l

has been woven m a Whitney


loom; that knife is from Sheffield; that
string of beads is from Birmingham. Let
us follow the ships that sail annually

camp

from the Thames bound


of this vast region.

when she
mid-)une

It

is

for the

supply

early in June

gets clear of the Nore;

when

it

is

Orkneys and Storbehind; it is August

the

naway are left


when the frozen

Hudson are
month has
been reached when the ship comes to
anchor off the sand-barred mouth of
the Nelson River. For one year the
pierced; and the

Straits of

end

of the

stores that she has brought in

lie in

the

warehouses of York factory; twelve


months later they reach Red River;
twelve months later again they reach
Fort Simpson on the Mackenzie. That
rough flinl-gun, which might have done
in the days of the Stuarts, is
worth many a rich sable in the country
of the Dogribs and the Loucheaux, and
is bartered for skins whose value can be
rated at four times their weight in gold;
but the gun on the banks of the Thames

duty

and the gun in the pine woods of the


Mackenzie are two widely different ar-

THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY

THE WEST

IN

/I,

^ite

:';^^%^

HENRY lAMES WARRE

The Hudson's Bay Company post Carleton House

846

Pencil drawing, AV2 x 7V4 inches

The old rough

tides.

flint,

whose bent

barrel the Indians will often straighten

between the

cleft of a tree

or the crev-

amongst other

things, very

much more

liable to national destruction; but

no means follows

that

it

by

it

should be

preserving for a future time the

game

which they hunt, and also of preserving


the hunters and trappers who are their
servants. The free trader is as a man

been made precious


by the long labour of many men; by the
trackless wastes through which it has
been carried; by winter-famine of those
who have to vend it; by the years
which elapse between its departure
from the workshop and the return of
that skin of sable or silver-fox for which
It
has been bartered. They are shortsighted men who hold that because the
flint-gun and the sable possess such different values in London, these articles

adapted equally well

corollaries ought not to be associated

the Indian trade

should

with free trade, an institution which

but all have


Saskatchewan
there has been but one result, and that
result has been the destruction of the
wild animals and the extinction, partial

ice of a rock, has

values

also
in

possess

their

relative

North America, and argue

Hudson Bay Com-

from

this that the

pany

treat the Indians unfairly; they are

short-sighted
of

men,

say,

and know not

what they speak. That old rough flint


in the hands

has often cost more to put


of the

Dogrib hunter than the best

finished central

fire

of Boss or Purdey.

But that is not all that has to be said


about the trade of this Company. Free
trade may be an admirable institution
for
some nations making them,

savage

to the

In-

dian. Unfortunately for the universality

who

of British institutions, free trade has in-

year or two and wishes to destroy

variably been found to improve the red

can.

man from

to

Free

the face of the earth.

trade in furs

means dear

beavers, dear

martens, dear minks, and dear otters;

and

all

these "dears"

mean whisky,

alcohol, high wine, disease, smallpox,

that these

to

been asand

in furs,

see no reason whatever to behold

our present day amongst traders,


an, or, for that matter, English,

remarkable reformation
ples of trade.

Company
who have
a very

Now

the

is

only answer

things have ever

sociated with free trade

tell

in

in

Indi-

furs

"If

next year

may

172

to

and

terests

of

failed;

from Texas

the

to

men
F

kill;

One

to protect the in-

Indians,

or total, of the Indian race.

itself."

more. Other companies and


means have been tried to carry on

the princi-

therefore are desirous of

he

first,

second

kill, kill,

take care of

taken a valuable shooting for

who

all

view;

cannot get them, then he

Hudson Bay

are in the position of

in

himself,

any very

long term of years or for a perpe-

and

the

shan't. Hunt, hunt, hunt,

word

so pre-eminently pure;

tuity,

them.

other

no use

has two objects

get

me

is

He

prevent the other traders from getting

these four dears and their four

and death. There


that

takes his shooting for the term of a

BUTIER

The Great Lone

Und

1872

THf HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY IN THE WEST

i.

\
A

iriii-^'

?;

.-

/*'

9-^
j^.

HENRY JAMES WARRE

The Bay

of Fort Victoria

^^'i:^^;^^^^!

fc

and a corner of ttie

Fort,

Vancouver

Island

846

Pencil drawing, AVi x 7 inches

Carlton stands on the edge ot the great


forest region

whose

shores,

if

we may

use the expression, are washed by the

waves
of

it;

ocean

of the prairie

but the waves are of

firewood for his winter

camp when the


make all cosy

not of

water. Year by year the great torrent of

against the night.

the

the course of a few

the

BUTLER

The Creal Lone Land

1872

ple
the

are

hidden

Fort,

flooded

Amongst

to

proceed

this

the

waiting for

subside,

and

to the diggings.

immense assemblage
them the

majority of

most desperate

and

Californian rowdies

beneath the

there,

Fraser

to

In

weeks 30,000 peo-

were collected

of people

sun and shower, and soon the traces of


conflict

Company's

allow them

dark ranks of the solemn-

standing pines; year by year a wider


region is laid open to the influences of
the

were
and one or two

California, the only buildings

houses inhabited by their employes.


f

tiame moves on deeper and deeper


into

the Eraser caused such excitement

in

lying south
fire,

on

sunset bids him begin to

lawless

of

the

Governor Doug-

waving grass, and clinging vetches, and


the clumps of tufted prairie roses. But

Victoria

very beautifully situated on

regular police-force, preserved an order

another

also

the shores of a small rocky bay an in-

fire;

dentation

and security which contrasted most forcibly with the state of things in San Francisco and Sacramento under similar circumstances. The city wore a very thriving aspect when we visited it, and could
already boast of several streets. The
whole traffic to and from British Co-

springs

species

up

of

the

in

vegetation

track

of the

las,
is

groves of aspens and poplars grow out

formed by the

of the burnt

giving to the country

sea

appearance

Esquimau.

that

soil,

park-like

already

spoken of. Nestling along the borders


of the innumerable lakes that stud the
face of the Saskatchewan region, these
poplar thickets sometimes attain large
growth,

but

checks

their

the

fire

too

progress,

them stand bare and dry

frequently

and many

of

to delight the

eye of the traveller with the assurance


of an ample store of bright and warm

into

which is
sweeping round of the

the promontory

in

the

land-locked harbour of

The

was

site

originally

chosen

by Sir James (then Mr.)


Douglas, Governor of the Hudson's
Bay Company's territories west of the

Rocky Mountains,

for the

establishment

of head-quarters, in place of Fort

couver,

when Oregon passed

Van-

into the

possession of the United States

in

17J

lumbia passing through it, has rapidly


its merchants, and handsome

enriched

brick stores are fast replacing the original

wooden

buildings.

the

year 1844. Fourteen years afterwards,


when the news of the discovery of gold

li

without the aid of a single soldier or

VISCOUN I MILTON AND W

9-

CHEADlt

The North-West Passage By Land

865

|i

From

day,

that

40

OR FIGHT

the

recently,

until

FROM QUEBEC TO OREGON - 54

colony has been going back, or as


some gloomily say, getting into its normal condition. Within the last ten
years, millions of dollars in solid gold

have been taken out of the colony. No


one thought of remaining in it except to
make a fortune; no one was interested in
life:
no one of the
its
political
thousands

became
mere

own

Crown.

was

It

from

separated

finger-joint

body. But

immigrants

foreign

of

a subject of the

its

now changing.

all this is

With Confederation came the dawn of


a brighter future;

and, although British

Columbia may never have the population of California or Oregon, an orderly


development is commencing that will
soon make

it

rank as a valuable Prov-

ince of the Dominion.

has the pros-

It

pect of being no longer a dissevered


limb, but of being connected by iron,
as well as sympathetic, hands with
trunk;

and

pulses

of

it

HENRY lAMESWARRE

its

already receiving the

is

larger

the

Had

life.

The settlement and Father Belcourt's Church


at White Horse Plains near the Red River
lune 17, 1845

the

Columbia River, instead of the 49th


parallel been made its Southern boundary instead of a purely artificial one,

could compete with California

in

as in every case of disputed lines

this,

America, U.S. diplomatists knew the


value of what they claimed, and British
in

diplomatists did not. Every

one

Province believes that they

dispute,

when

a fly. At the

Commons,
Minister

in

to

it

lime of the

the

War

House

brother of the

the

happened

the
in

the Secretary for

was using brave words

the

in

lost

Columbia, because the salmon

would not take

of

Prime

be stationed on

the Pacific coast, and fished in the


Columbia without success, because the
salmon were too uneducated to rise to
a fly. He wrote home that "there was
no use making a fuss about the country
for

it

gracefully

given

now

on the

the most valuable

when

"

wasn't worth a

the worthless region,

up.

And

so

considered
Pacific,

And why

The Fort of White Horse Plains is situated near the Assiniboine and the
settlement

extends

along

itself

the

banks of that river. For twenty miles, almost without a break, small farms run
outwards from the river-side into the
uncultivated

The

soil

seems

elm-trees

grass-clad

but

prairies.

rich, a belt of large, fine

borders

the

course of the

young poplars grow in


there; the ground

stream, and

masses here and

undulates considerably

in

many

parts,

and altogether this settlement looks


warmer and more home-like than that
on the Red River near Fort Garry.
'The

square

plain

houses

settler'

are

generally

devoid

boxes,

of

the

be

called

so.

this.

We

still

may be made

one." But enough of

have more good land than

we know what

to

C M GRANT
Ocean to Ocean

1873

do

is

material

the

invariably

employed placed horizontally

in

long

logs about a foot square. Neither gar-

to

passed the
as the

just

be about two hundred peo-

French-Canadian

less of

They

have

one almost invariable type of

dress,

though

which,
looks

rather

blood.

handsome

sombre

in

in

itself,

crowd,

capots of dark blue, leggings of the


same, caps either of the same or of

some dark fur. The only relief to this


monotony is given by a scarlet, crimson
or variegated scarf round the waist, and
red stripes embroidered with various

coloured ribbons down the outside of the


leggings.

dark

though

a short projecting

may

we

mostly men, and more or

iron

dens nor surrounding fences are in


favour, and the cottages stand all raw
and bare-faced, as boulders are strewn
by a flood, or meteor-stones dropped
from the sky.

little

ple,

chimney even, unless

British America, and thus gradually


work out Benjamin Franklin's problem

"a great nation

seemed

not,

stove-pipe

starting

Catholic church,

congregation was coming out. There

was

Wood

how

Roman

ally

it

into a very

Shortly after

smallest attempt at ornament; without a

was the privately if not publicly


announced aim of a school of British
politicians to get rid of the whole of

of

x 7Mi inches

cere-

in

gold mining. But

als as well as in

Pen and ink drawing, 414

it

The female costume is generalso, and not remarkable,

with

much

picturesqueness

about the head-dress, which

is

some-

times a dark shawl or blanket worn as a

hood, sometimes a crimson or yellow


handkerchief, which forms a rich

silk

contrast to the glossy black hair

it

partly

conceals.

with.
THEEARLOFSOUTHESK

THEEARLOFSOUTHESK

SasJcalchewan and the Rocky Mountains

11

174

875

5as/catc/iewan

and the Rocky Mountains

875

rROM QUEBEC TOORECON-54-40'ORFlCHT

HENRY lAMES
WARRb
Hunting buffalo on
Western prairies

tine

1846
Water-colour,
7 X 1 1 Vj inches

WILLIAM GEORGE

RICHARDSON HIND
Cutting up the buffalo

1862
vJvVVW.\'4>^*'t5viSv\i,\ll

Too soon

will

the last of

,1^/.

.'/>,

them have

Water-colour,
3Vi x6 inches

_'Zl-T-T^-.

of his death,

he

is

tepidly vanishing

northern

vanished from the great central prairie

from the

land; never again will those countless

forests of the

herds roam from the Platte to the Mis-

defiance to man, but


must disappear and nothing
be left of this giant beast save the bones
that for many an age will whiten the

souri,

from

the

Missouri

Saskatchewan; chased

to

the

for his robe, for

his beef, for sport, for the ver^

pastime

may

Far

land.

in

the

Athabasca a few buffaloes

prairies

over which the great

roamed at will
man came.

in

for a time bid

they, too,

175

BUTLER

JheCreal Lone Land

herds

times before the white

1872

FROM QUEBEC TO OREGON -54-40' OR FICHT

we were

Thursday [luly] 1 7 [ 1845]. -Rain had


descended during the whole night, and

our crossing

so drenched our things that

we were
12oCtakingadvantage
of the delay to dry them. We went on for a
few miles, crossing a small, but deep

so deep

unable tostart

through the swamp, round a small Lake

till

Creek, also Battle River;


again

came down

in

when

such

the Rain

torrents, ac-

companied by the most vivid Lightening,


wind & Thunder, we were obliged again
to encamp, having hardly advanced 6
miles. The lightening was so near to us,
that at one time, we jumped on our legs,
fancying the tent itself had been struck.
We were very miserable the whole day
cold & wet to the skin The Rain continued almost the whole night and sleep
was next to impossible At 4 oC. am on
Friday 18th

we

again got under

way

through the same kind of impenetrable

bush down a small River, called Prince's,


from the circumstance of a Man of that
name having been killed by the Blackfeet
on the borders of it, and crossed and
recrossed this River 3 different times, at

obliged to carry

Mens shoulders,
Mud & Water; on

every thing over on the

was

in

it

where we breakfasted

after

which we

crossed a chain of Hills and again found


ourselves surrounded by swamps.

Fir

&

Poplar Trees, having the greatest possible difficulty to get through Horses

Men

stumbling

Mire.

Ogden from

&

sticking
his great

in

&

the

weight

is

always worse off, falling frequently but


always managing to escape uninjured.
was fairly carried off my horse by a Tree,
which in endeavouring to avoid found
I

my back in the
mud. Passed a very large lake called Cull
Lake, and through magnificient Pine
Forest, some of the trees of which were
of great size; camped on a small stream
completely knocked up, with 1 1 hours
ride and a perfect fever from the bites of
myself lying on the flatof

called Bull dogs,

which drove them

al-

We made about 28 miles


SSW course. The night was very cold &
on the Morning of Saturday July 9th we
most mad.

found the whole ground covered with a


thickWhiteFrostwhich was followed by
a lovely day. off at 5oC. through the

same kind of thick wood & over swamp


loC when we reached a chain of
very high hills and much clearer & more
till

country with

practicable

views on

all

Passingover

beautiful

sides of the distant Prairies.


this

range we

came tea sec-

ond, on surmounting which we came in


sight of the magnificent Range of the

Rocky Mountains, in all the irregularity


Mountain Scenery and stretching far

of

away
South.

into the blue distance

From

North

the height of the Hills

&
on

Mosquitoes. Nor did the horses escape,

which we stood the intervening country


appeared like an extreme plain, and
made the Mountains appear very large.
Snow covered several, and had accumulated in the Valleys; but
was

but were attacked by large Horse Flies

disappointed

the persevering

Tormentors the

little

176

at

seeing so

little

nor will

HENRY iAMES VVARRE/The

the

cence

ot outline.

zerland

Had

was on

or magnifi-

not seen Swit-

had allowed

much scope &

case,

in size

much more
my imagination

should have been

struck, but

too

mountains from near the Bow

Rocky Mountains bear comparison

with the Alps either

as

is

frequently the

the whole disappointed.

We breakfasted in full view of the Mounand descended afterwards to an implain, which proved to be a deep
swampwhich we were obliged to passto
a River called by the Indians Medicine
Lodge River The tumbles crossing the
swamp were very laughable, but the
unfortunate horses suffered and many a
Saddle Bag got wet damaging our
goods and chattels. We encamped on
the River and dried our things & killed
several Grouse which are now of a very
good size and made a change in our
usual Meal We have been living on
bad Buffaloe Meat dried & made into
"Pemjcan" Hams, and Biscuit. We
tains

mense

passed over the fresh

which put us

all

on

FROMQUEBEr TflOKK.ON

trail

Columbia

845 /Water-colour, 4Va

saw none, made about 32 miles W.S.W.


Course.

5 oC.

we

Leaving our

Camp

traversed a fine extent of

at

open

covered with a kind of


brush dog Wood & Artemesia that we
had seen. Cross up the M. Lodge River
3 times & from thence crossing to little
tumbled head
Elk River, into which
over heels down the steep bank the saddle sliding over the horses head from
Prairie Country,

thence

we came

Elk Rivera

x 14'/2 inches

Before us, at times, a grove of dark green

and beyond the sombre wood,


more sombre grey of the
mountains; where the wood had been
burnt, the bare blackened poles seemed
to be only a screen hung before, half
revealing, half concealing, what was
beyond. The mountains dwarfed and
relieved everything else. There was less
snow than had appeared yesterday, the
explanation being that the first and least
elevated mountain range only was
before us now that we were near,
spruce,

Tuesday 20th

broad

Main Stream

of

very rapid Stream

at

to the

&

which we had to unload all the horses


to enable them to cross. The Hunter of
the party fortunately killed a Red Deer
which was fat & gave us fresh meat, a

the infinitely

when at a greater distance,


many of the higher summits beyond had

whereas,

been

visible.

very acceptable addition to our scanty


stores

we also killed several Geese &


Ascending the River for some

Grouse.

we camped on

its banks mak20 miles only, inconsequence


of the delays in traversing the numerous

distance

ing about

of Indians

streams.

we

HI, WARRE

the qui vive but

River, British

,4-4n-ORFICHT

177

M.

GRANT

Ocean

1845

Diafies

to

Ocean

1873

HENRY lAMES WARRE

FROM QUEBEC TO OREGON -54"40' OR FIGHT

An

Indian Chief's

Water-colour,

We

did not reach our

cold,

till

'/2

Camp, wet &

past 8oC. an old Indian

some

Village afforded us

shelter,

but

were dreadfulLeaving early each morning & camping


late each Evening we did not reach Fort
Vancouver till V2 past 9oC on the Evethe fleas

&

insects

ning of the 6th. March [1846]. after an


unusually long
the River.

&

very wet passage up

without

any object

to inter-

one except on the ascent of Mount


below the Cowlitz
River an Isolated and very high Rock
(said to be 700 feet) perfectly perpendicular towards the Country & sloping

est

Coffin about 5 miles

more gradually

to the River

being also

difficult to

tomb on

6'/2 x

the Cowelitz River,

ascend from

that quarter.

was formerly the grave Yard


Hundreds of Indians, whose Canoes

This Rock
for

covered the face of the Rocks, but Capt.


Wilkes' of the U.S. Exploring Squadron
boat Crew having camped on the foot
accidentally or designedly,

left

their fire

which spread and burnt the whole of


the Craves, which are formed of Canoes, supported on Trestles. We ascended to the top and were repaid by a
beautiful
view of the surrounding
Country but almost driven back by the
numbers of Snakes & serpents 26 of

which we killed on one progress.


The number we saw is incredible.

Oregon

Territory

846

inches

178

and only

to be

accounted

for,

from the

having been the Indian burying ground for Centuries witnessed


a fight between a large white headed
fact of this

&

Eagle

a Fish

a fish from the

he

Hawk. The Hawk caught


Water & no sooner had

risen with the prey than the Eagle

rushed

at

him, to force him to drop the

This

however the hawk was not


Such a screaming &
flapping of wings when another Eagle
came to the assistance of her mate, and
prey.

inclined to do.

obliged the poor

hawk

dive for his breakfast.


H

WARRE

Diaries

1846

to

make another

Our

pedestrian

labors

FROM QUEBEC TO OREGON -54-40' OR FIGHT

now com-

menced. For three days we continued


the ascent of the valley of the

Canoe

wading twenty times in the


course of each day through this mountain torrent, landing on the snow,
which covered the whole country, and
over the half thawed surface of which,
river,

we dragged

the heavy lumbering, but

well adapted, shoe, that prevented our

being submerged

at

every step;

at night

we formed

our couch on the snow,


without an opportunity being afforded
to us of drying our saturated garments,
or being able to pitch our tent to guard

On the fourth day we


ascended the "Grand Cote" to the
height of land on which are situated
two small lakes, from whence flow two
rivers, the waters of which fall into different oceans the Columbia into the
Pacific, and the Athabasca into the
Frozen ocean. The fatigue of mounting
nearly 5000 feet on the soft snow,
which sank, even with the snow shoes,
nearly to the knees at every step, can
hardly be conceived. We were obliged
to follow one another in file, and
against the cold.

relieve

the

leading

file

every

ten

means the road was


formed for the carriers, whose endurance, under their heavy burdens, was
minutes, by which

wonderful.

We were now in the

very heart of the

mountains, which rose several thousand


feet

on every side of us. "Avalanches" of

snow and rock were detached under the


influenceof the mid-day sun, and rolled
across our path into the valley beneath,

threatening to engulph us

in their

over-

whelming course.
H

WARRt

Sketches in Norlh America and the Oregon Territory

1848

HENRY )AMES WARRE


Ascending the Rocky Mountains on the
return of Wdrre's party to
Spring 1846

Water-colour, 10 x

6%

Canada

inches

179

THE BRITISH AT RED RIVtR

II

^
HAMPDEN MOODY

1^.^

i-

'^W ,^^

The sun rose bright but was soon


clouded. Ten good miles were made
and then the halt called for breakfast at
a beautiful headland, just as it comto rain.

-^1-4, yj'.'^A.

En route to the Red River Settlement

Pen and

menced

Now we got some

idea

ink drawing,

3% x 9%

|uly

scrapings from the driest outside corner


of a very stale piece of cold roast beef,

long way.)

"berry-pemmican"
is

at

supper.

the ordinary

buffalo

pemmican, with Saskootoom

berries

to say,

sprinkled through
ing,

which

it

at the

time of mak-

acts as currant jelly

does

with venison, correcting the greasiness

we put on our
up our baggage

of the fat by a slightly acid sweetness.

means. After breakfast

and moved ahead, under a deluge of


rain that knew no intermission for four
hours. Most of the water-proofs proved
to be delusions; they had not been
made for these latitudes. The canoes
would have filled, had we not kept
bailing,
without a
word of
but,
complaint, the Indians stuck to their
paddles.

CM. GRANT
Ocean Ko Ocean

Sometimes wild cherries are used instead of the Meesasskootoom-meena.


Berry-pemmican is usually the best of
kind, but poor is the best. Take
its

add

to

lumps of tallowy rancid

it

then garnish

all

with long

human

fat,

hairs

which string pieced, like beads,


upon a necklace), and short hairs of
oxen, or dogs, or both, and you have
a fair imitation of common pemmican,
(on

though
1873

846

Pemmican is most endurable when


uncooked. My men used to fry it with
grease, sometimes stirring-in flour, and
making
flabby
mess,
called
a
"rubab;5o," which
found almost
uneatable. Carefully-made pemmican,
such as that flavoured with the Saskootoom berries, or some that we got from
the mission at St. Ann, or the sheeppemmican given us by the Rocky
Mountain hunters, is nearly good,
but, in two senses, a little of it goes a

'Had
(That

of what a rainy day in these regions


water-proofs, covered

inches

should rather suppose

less nasty.

it

to

be

THE EARL Of SOUTHESK

Sas/carchewan art6 the Rocky Mountains

180

875

THE BRIIISH AT RED RIVER

,4?

WILLIAM

H.

E.

NAPIER

Slave Falls on the Winnipeg River, Rupert's Land

1857

Water-colour, 7 x lOVb inches

The Slave

Falls!

who

that

has ever

toheld that superb rush of water


torget

It?

may be

will

Glorious, glorious Winnipeg!

eyes of mine
shall never see thee again, for thou liesi
it

thai with these

and man mars


not thy beauty with ways of civilized

far

out of the track of

travel;

but

shall

imagination, and

waters shall
life....

life,

often see thee


thy

murmur

rocks and
in

memory

in

thy
for

Thus the great Slave Fall tells by its


the fate of two Sioux captives
taken in some foray by the Ojibbeway;
lashed together in a canoe, they were

name

the only

men who

ing-ground, where even Ojibbeways

cease from troubling and Sioux warriors


are at

rest,

had been reached.

ever ran the Great

Chute. The rocks around were black


with the figures of the Ojibbeways,
wild triumphant yells were
hushed by the roar of the cataract; but
the torture was a short one; the mighty
rush, the wild leap, and the happy hunt-

whose

I1

BUTIER

The Great Lone Land

THE BRITISH AT RED RiVER

GEORGE SETON

The men's barracks from


Water-colour, bVi x

Miss Rye's place

is

about a couple of

miles from the village, across a very


fine

common, on which

at the

time of

my visit there were three

thousand
CANADIAN VOLUNTEERS

troops are called out

in

the

summer

of

each year, to drill for about a month, as


the Canadian Government keeps no
standing army, except a few men in
Quebec and Fort Garry, and there are
no British troops, with the exception of

window of the

officer's mess, Fort

Garry

857

What

military police,

fellowmen and pay almost divine


honours to the chief engineers who
work the machine. How differently are
things managed in Canada, where over
four millions of people are kept in order
without a regular soldier from Quebec

and

to Fort Garry,

son

is

a les-

who

here taught to despots,

gov-

ern their subjects by the strength of

human

under canvas. These troops are a kind


compromise between English militia
and volunteers, being men of a better
social position than the one, and not so
good as the other. They certainly are
stalwart and wiry-looking fellows, and
some of the regiments were in excellent
trim;
particularly
an Artillery one
which showed to great advantage. The

the

inches

a half regiment at Halifax.

their armies,

of

9%

and thus convert men

into

butchers. Ireland takes 14,000

and between 20,000


30,000 regulars to keep five
millions of people in subjection, and

we

are gravely told,

ety; yet,

it is

to protect soci-

venture to say, that

if

Ireland

ly

except a handful of

Governor

Canada

tary mercenaries; for the Irish are na-

some where armies

turally a

people.
the

law-loving and law-abiding


soldier of the rank

European

armies,

is

and
a

file in

182

yet,

country of law and order,

as any other,

and more so than

are kept to prevent

the people getting justice, or, in other

words, a good Government.

mere

machine without a mind or reasoning


powers of his own, he is taught two dutiesand two only namely, to kill his

much

is

in

any other capacity;

were governed on the same enlightened principles as Canada, the country


would not require these hordes of mili-

citizens as in

who,
amusing the

Guards,

General's

perhaps, are as useful

as

state-

old fellows at Ottawa, called the

P-

O'LEARY

Travels

and Experiences

in

Canada

no dale

IHF BRITISH AT RED RIVER

"!-=

^^

WILLIAM
St.

H.

E.

nr*^

ja*

NAPIER

Boniface Cathedral, Red River Settlement

I8S7
Water-colour, 3

'/2

The Scottish settlers are a considerable


and very thriving body. Their farms (in
this quarter at least) are entirely on the
western side of the Red River, where also
stand the Fort and the Protestant
churches; the French and French halfbreeds occupy the eastern side, and their
large cathedral, with its two horn-like
steeples, and the comfortablelittle

x 714 inches

In

population the whole settlement,

including White Horse Plains, does not

much exceed 7000 -the common

es-

timate, 10,000, being a great exaggera-

tion and

this

number

is

almost equally

divided between Protestants and


Catholics, with a

trifling

former. This calculation,

shows

also with

Roman

majority of the
I

am

informed,

much accuracy

the

the

division of the races, those of British ori-

nuns, are as conspicuous as Fort Carry


itself, opposite to which they hold their

gin belongingtotheProtestantchurches,

place, close beside the farther bank of

Rome.

looking adjacent establishment

ol

those of French origin to the church of

the stream.

THEEARIOFSOUTHESK

Saskatchewan and the Rocky Mountains

18.3

875

THE BRITISH

M RED RIVER

**ir:_

WILLIAM ARMSTRONG
Carry

1857

Water-colour,

8x16

Fort

inches

Now, had

5,000 persons very naturally ob-

the country bordering on


Red River been an unpeopled wilder-

these

ness, the plan carried out in effecting

sions signed

the transfer of land in the North-West

consent or one note of approval. Nay,

from the Hudson's Bay Company to the


Crown, and from the Crown to the
Dominion of Canada, would have been

more than

an eminently wise one; but, unfortunately for

its

wisdom, there were some

15,000 persons
session of the

living in peaceful pos-

soil

thus transferred, and

184

jected to have themselves

and posses-

away without one word


that,

neers had on

of

these straggling pio-

many an occasion

taunt-

ed the vain half-breed with what would


happen when the irresistible march of
events had thrown the country into the
arms of Canada: then civilization

would

dawn

upon

the

benighted

the half-breed would seek


some western region, the Company
would disappear, and all the institutions of New World progress would

country,

THE BRITISH AIRfDRIVfK

horns ready, took the covers

off their

and with much gessummarily interfered with

trading flint-guns,
ticulation

surveys

several

anticipatory

shed prosperity over the land; prosperi-

farms,

doubling

and of the old


new-comers and of the
new order of things. Small wonder,
then, if the little community, resenting
all this threatened improvement off the
face of the earth, got their powder-

bundling the surveying parties out of


their freeholds, and very peremptorily

ty,

not to the old dwellers

type, but to the

up

the

of

their

sextants,

Governor M'Dougall,
Canada, that his
presence was by no means of the least
desirability to Red River or its inhabiinforming Mr.

just

arrived

from

tants. The man who, with remarkable


energy and perseverance, had worked

up

his fellow-citizens to this pitch of

and directing the


whole movement, was a young French
resistance, organizing

half-breed

possessing

named Louis Riel a man


many of the attributes suited

to the leadership of parties,

of political disturbances.

W.

F,

BUTIER

The Great Lone Land

185

and quite
any time

certain to rise to the surface in

1872

THE OVERLANDERS OF

'62

Then,

in

1862 the Cariboo mines were

discovered, and the second rush was


greater than the

first;

but again, not an

emigration of sober, steady household-

whose aim was

ers,

and

live

by

their

industry, but of

fever-heated adventurers from


of the world

man

homes,

to establish

own

all

parts

without a country

home. San Francisco was


time. Thousands sold
there, and bought others in

and without

deserted for a
their lots

Victoria or claims in Cariboo. Cariboo

was

four hundred miles from the sea,


and there was no road but an old Indian trail, winding up and down mountains
and precipices, across deep
gorges and rivers, through thick woods
without game; but the obstacles that
would have stopped an army were

laughed

by miners. Of course the

at

wave soon

spent

itself.

>v.-\

WILLIAM GEORGE RICHARDSON HIND


The Overlanders

selling out

Water-colour, 2Vi x

3'/2

from Fort Garry

M.

GRANT

Ocean

lune 1862

to

Ocean

1873

inches

The caravan
East,

is

not

more needed

across the deserts, than

West, across the

fertile

it

is

in

the

in the

but uninhabited

whole party
and for the return journey of the men
must be carried unless you make
frequent delays to hunt. Your tents and
theirs, in other words, house and furniture; kitchen, larder and pantry; toolchest and spare axle-trees; clothes,
blankets, water-proofs, arms and ammunition, medicine-chest, books, paper
boxes for specimens to be collected on
the way, and things you never think
of till you miss them, all are or may be
prairies. Provisions for the

required.

CM

GRANT

Ocean

WILLIAM GEORGE RICHARDSON HIND


The Overlanders Jones and Carpenter playing cards

to

Ocean

1873

1862

Water-colour, 3Vi x 6 inches

Itwas a marvel

how well those Red

carts stood out

all

River

the jolting they got.

When

any part broke before, a thong of


shaganappi or buffalo raw-hide thong
had united the pieces. Shaganappi in this
part of the

world does

cloth, rope, nai

and
for

number

Is,

all

that leather,

glue, straps, cord, tape,

of other articles are used

elsewhere. Without

it

the

Red River

cart,

which

is

simply a clumsy looking

but really light box cart with wheels six or

seven feet

in

diameter, and not a

bit of

about the whole concern, would be


an impossibility. These small-bodied
high-wheeled carts cross the miry
creeks, borne up by the grass roots, and
iron

on the ordinary trail the horses jog along


with them at a steady trot of four or five

186

miles an hour. Ordinary carts


stick hopelessly in the

mud

ings of the creeks and marshes,

slowly on a good

trail.

would

at the cross-

and travel

Acart without an

ounceof iron was a curiosity to us at first,


but we soon found that it was the right
thing in the right place.
C

M GRANT

Ocean

to

Ocean

1873

THEOVERLANDERSOF-62

WILLIAM GEORGE RICHARDSON HIND

St.

On

well-kept garden, gay with

our

to the

arrival at St.

Ann, we proceeded

mission-house, where we met with

most cordial reception.

- 'Had

pleasure of dining with Peres

the

Lacome

Roman Catholic mission-house agreeable men and perfect


gentlemen. What an advantage Rome
and Le Frain

has

in

stantly

supply

at the

respect Protestants con-

this

send vulgar, underbred folk to


their missions,
Rome sends

polished,

highly-educated gentlemen.

Then how much the

best

is

her

addressing the Indian mind;

ample, every Indian

who

mode

for

of

ex-

joins the Mis-

Temperance Society is given a


handsome medal to wear.' (Thisappeals
to their pride or vanity, and is far more effectual than mere dry exhortations.)
sion

On
hosts,

the pressing invitation of


I

remained

sion house.

my

kind

for the night at the mis-

'Everything

there

is

won-

and flourished, it is a true


Thecowsfatandfine,
the horses the same, the dogs, the very
cats, the same. A well-arranged and
derfully neat

oasis in thedesert.

Ann's Lake on the prairies


1862
Pen and ink drawing, 3% x 6 Inches

many flowers

(some of them the commonest flowers


of the

woods and

fection by care

plains,

and

beautifully clean, the

brought to per-

The house
means served up as

labour.)

ina gentleman's dining-room. Excellent


preserves of service-berries and wild

raspberries; everything

made

use of

and turned to account.'


Surrounded by such comfort and refinement, and in the society of such
agreeable entertainers, passed a most
pleasantevening, one thatoften recalled
I

itself to

my memory

amidst the experi-

ences of later times.


The rooms were decorated with
religious prints, and there was likewise a
good library of books of a similar character. In my own bedroom were several of
the

latter,

interest,

which

looked through with

among them, however, was one

it surprised
me to find in such
honourable company a cheap Dublin
publication called The /./fe of the V/rg/n

gravely told and reasoned on as any

chapter

Baron Munchausen's

in

travels.'

(Such childish fables, though possibly at-

simple-minded people In
to me ill adapted to
impress the Indians, who are not wanting

tractive

to

other lands,

in

seemed

shrewdness, and whose

own

super-

naturalism isofagraveand sombrecharacter. But the

successof the mission con-

vinces one that


not have been

this foolish

in

book could

general use, whatever

accident had brought

it

all

the

way from

Ireland.)

'Lake

St.

Ann

is

a sheet of water about

seven miles long. The Indians

Great

Spirit

name

of Cod's Lake.'

Lake;

it

is

also
(It

call

known by

was sometimes

designated Manito Lake, which merely

means

Sp/n't

Lake,

prefix

required to denote whether a


evil spirit

is

good

being
or an

intended.)

which

Mary, a pamphlet,

of falsehoods as

'full

187

it

the

THE EARL OF SOUTHESK

SaskMcheyNtn and the Rocky Mountains

875

THE "NOBIE SAVACf

There are three ways of dealing with

men

the less than half-million of red

be found on the continent of

to

still

America, each of which has been

on

tried

The

a smaller or larger scale.

first

cannot be put more clearly or badly


than it was in a letter dated San Fransisco, Sept. 1 859, which went the round

American

of the

and received

press,

very general approval. The writer,

same

in

which Roebuck condemned the British Government's shilthe

spirit in

towards the Maories,

ly-shally policy

condemned

having ordered a large military

for not

force to California

session of

shoot

Government

Federal

the

down

Colorado

when

they got pos-

"with orders to hunt and

it,

Indians from the

the

all

to the

Klamath." Of course

the writer adds that such a

method

of

dealing with the Indians would have

been the cheapest, "and probably the


most humane." With regard to this policy of no nonsense, thorough-going as
selfishness

itself,

it

is

enough

to say that

no Christian nation would now


it

for

an

tolerate

instant.

The second way is to insist that there


no Indian question. Assume that the
Indian must submit to our ways of living
and our laws because they are better
than his; and that, as he has made no
improvement on the land, and has no
is

legal title-deeds,
to

it

he can have no

that a civilized being

right

bound

is

to

recognize. Let the emigrants, as they

pour into the country, shove the old


lords of the soil back; hire

choose

to

them

work; punish them

if

they
they

if

break the laws, and treat them as poor

PETER RINDISBACHER

whites have to be treated. Leave the

between

struggle

the

two races

The Sioux war chief Wuana-tea

entirely
ca.

to

the principle of natural

Water-colour,

weaker go to the wall. This


course has been practically followed in
and

the

let

many

parts of

which

America.

atrocities

frighful

the

civilized

on

superior

man

It

sides,

vigour

of

savage. The Indian

such competition for existence, soon


realizing his comparative weakness,
had resource to the cunning that the in-

opposes

to the strength

of the superior. This irritated

well-disposed white,

who

inches

in

the

in

ferior naturally

8'/4 xb'/j

has led to

both

has outmatched the na-

tive ferocity of the

1822

selection,

even the

got

along

honestly,

was

and believed

the best policy.

that

honesty

was no wonder

It

by miners

who

few exchanges of punishment and vengeance, the conviction

been called
Indians had

became general that the presence of


the Indian was inconsistent with public
security; that he was a nuisance to
be abated; and that it was not wise to
scrutinize too closely, what was done

how

that, after a

188

had

to

look out for

themselves, or by the troops

miners

who had

in to protect settlers.

no newspapers
tried

unoffending Indian

their
at a

rifles

to

The
tell

on an

distance, for

the pleasure of seeing the poor wretch

jump when the bullet struck him; or


how, if a band had fine horses, a charge

THE

NOBLE SAVAGE

paternal,
level
least

go down

to

is

when

down;

half-way

whether they wish

come

to the Indian

dealing with them; go

it

explain

at

that,

or not, immigrants

and that
Government Is bound to seek the
good of all the races under its sway,
and do justly by the white as well as by
the red man; offer to make a treaty
with them on the principles of allotting
to them reserves of land that no one can
will

into the country,

the

invade, and that they themselves cannot alienate, giving

sum

per family

in

them an annual

the shape of useful

among

schools

establishing

articles,

them and encouraging missionaryeffort,


and prohibiting the sale of intoxicating
I

When thus approached,

iquors to them.

they are generally reasonable

demands; and
all competent
a treaty
that

is

is

is

it

authorities

solemnly

that,

made

when

with them

according to Indian ideas of

solemnity, they keep

only break

it

when

it

sacredly.

may

be said

They

they believe that the

other side has broken faith


It

in their

the testimony of

that,

first

do what we

like,

must eventually
die out. It is not unlikely. Almost all
the Indians in the North-west are
scrofulous. But on the other hand, in
the United States and in Canada, they
exist, in not a few cases, as christianized self-supporting communities,
and have multiplied and prospered.
These are begmning to ask for full
the Indians as a race,

freedom.

It

was

all right,

they argue, to

when we did
know their value, and to keep us as
wards when we could not take care of
forbid us to sell our lands,

PETER RINDISBACHER

Saulteau Indian
ca.

Water-colour,

not

winter dress

in

it
is different now; we
grown men: and it is an injustice to
prevent us from making the most we
can out of our own.
At all events, there are no Indian dif-

ourselves; but

1822

8%

are

x bVi inches

ficulties in

our Northwest. For genera-

tions the H.B.

was trumped up against them, that


band might be broken up and
horses stolen;

or

how

the

the
the

innocent

were indiscriminately slaughtered with


the guilty; or how they were poisoned
by traders with bad rum, and cheated
till

left

without gun, horse, or blanket.

This policy of giving to the

simple

children of the forest and prairie, the

blessings of unlimited free-trade, and

bidding them look


ests,

after their

own

has not been a success. The

ful cruelties

expense

it

connected with

it

interfright-

and the

has entailed, have forced

many to question whether the fire and


sword plan would not have been
"cheaper and, perhaps, more humane."
The third way, called sometimes the

189

Company governed

the

way, the big


children often being rude and noisy,
sometimes plundering a fort, or even
tribes in a semi-paternal

maltreating a

factor,

but

in

the

end

always returning to their allegiance, as


without the Company, they could not
get tea or tobacco, guns or powder,

blankets or trinkets.
c.

GRANT

Ocean

to

Ocean

1873

THE "NOBLE SAVAGE"

Money-values are entirely unknown in


these trades. The values of articles are

JimU./^

computed by

"skins"; for instance, a

horse will be reckoned at 60 skins; and


these 60 skins will be given thus: a gun,

15 skins; a capote, 10 skins; tobacco,


15 skins-total, 60 skins. The Bull

Er-

mine, or the Four Bears, or the Red

may be

Daybreak, or whatever

the

brave's name, hands over the horse,

and

gets in return a blanket, a gun, a

capote, ball and powder, and tobacco.

The term "skins"

is

one

a very old

in

the fur trade; the original standard, the

beaver skin or, as

it

was

called, "the

the

medium

made beaver" was

of

exchange, and every other skin and article of trade was graduated upon the
scale of the beaver; thus a beaver, or a

was reckoned equivalent to


skin, one marten was equal

skin,

mink

2 skins,

on;

one black fox 20


same manner,

and so

skins,

the

in

a blanket, a

capote, a gun, or a kettle had their

values

ferent

dif-

being

This

skins.

in

to

we

will now proceed with


Sapoomaxica, or the Big
Crow's Foot, having demonstrated the
bigness of his heart, and received in re-

explained,
the

trade.

turn

proof of

tangible

sponding size of the


his braves,

corre-

the

trader's,

addresses

cautioning them against vio-

lence or rough behaviour the braves,

standing ready with their peltries, are

^Jrr^/SM,

^:;4/

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL

An

trade.
Indian chief in British finery, Fort Ellice

tions

1881
Pencil drawing,

6%

in

a high state of excitement to begin the

Within the fort all the preparahave been completed, communi-

cation cut off between the Indian

x 4'/2 inches

room

and the rest of the buildings, guns


placed up in the loft overhead, and men

The

universal

passion

dress

for

is

strangely illustrated in the Western Indian. His ideal of perfection

is

the En-

costume of some forty years ago.


The tall chimney-pot hat with round
narrow brim, the coat with high collar
going up over the neck, sleeves tightglish

fitting,

tion,

waist narrow. All this

and the chief

self in this

who can

is

perfec-

array him-

ancient garb struts out of the

envy and admiration of all


beholders. Sometimes the tall felt chim-

fort

the

ney-pot

is

graced by a large feather

all

turn up; then the outer gate

Indian

skin

porcupine
the

raven

embroidered with
and ornamented with

shirt

quills

locks of his

enemies

his

head-dress of ermine skins, his flowing


buffalo robe: a dress in

which he looks

every inch a savage king for one

which he looks every inch a


savage. But the
survive
to the

bit

new

by

bit

to

it

is

found unsuited

wild work which

is of considerable consequence, but the presence of a nether


garment is not at all requisite to the

of the

owner has

its
it

never loses

the high estimate originally set


it,

nevertheless,

is

In

foolish

dress does not long

perform; and though

which has done duty in the turban of


a dowager thirty years ago in England.
The addition of a little gold tinsel to the
coat collar

get ready for anything that might

Eor this most ridiculous-looking cos-

tume a Blackfeet chief will readily


exchange his beautifully-dressed deer-

upon

it,

discarded by virtue

many inconveniences

of running buffalo in a

tall

brought into the prescence of so


very

190

much

much

behave

manner

the

of

immediate juxtaposition to bath-buns, cream-cakes, and


jam-fritters, to the complete collapse of
profit upon the trade to the Hudson Bay

Company. The
hand

unfortunately

after

hungry boy put

in

Indians admitted

first

through a

in their peltries

grating,

many

completeness of the general get-up.

would

finery

beaver, or
.

thrown

comers are now admitted through


the narrow passage into the tradingshop, from the shelves of which most
of the blankets, red cloth, and beads
have been removed, for the red man

arising out

fighting in a tailcoat against Crees.

is

open, and a large throng enters the


Indian room. Three or four of the first-

and receive

in

wooden

exchange so

blankets, beads, or strouds.

Out

THE NOBLE SAVAGE

!-

l^'l^'f

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL

Ugly customers

at Smart's Store, Battletord

August 30,

881

Pencil drawing, 4'/2 x 7Vi inches

they go to the large hall where their


comrades are anxiously awaiting their
turn, and in rush another batch, and the
doors are locked again. The reappearance of the fortunate braves with the
much-coveted articles of finery adds
immensely to the excitement. What
did they see Inside? "Oh, not much,
only a few dozen blankets and a few
guns, and a little tea and sugar"; this
is terrible news for the outsiders, and

one side of that thing that swings a bag


of pemmican, and put on the other side
blankets and tea and sugar, and then,
when the two sides stop swinging, you
take the bag of pemmican and we will

the crush to get in increases tenfold,

take

under the belief


will

all

be

that the

good

things

So

the

trade

gone.

progresses, until at last

all

the peltries

and provisions have changed hands,


and there is nothing more to be traded;
but sometimes things do not run quite
so

smoothly.

stock of

Sometimes,

pemmican

when

or robes

is

the

small,

the braves object to see their "pile" go


for a little parcel of tea or sugar.

The

steelyard

and

weighing-balance

for you put on one


and on the other a

they say;

"we

medicine

is

the

would be

side tea or sugar,


little

don't

but,

blankets
fair, for

on

bit

of iron?"

know what

that

look here, put on

and the
one side

big as the other." This

idea

are

"What

their esp)ecial objects of dislike.

is

that

tea:

be as

will

a very bright

ever, a

little bit

when

it

you say. We will make


swing level between the bag of pemmican and the blankets, but we will

1191

them on
and my gun and

when

You

further.

will

on one

side,

the other
ball

my

will put

blankets,

and powder; then,

both sides are level, you will take

and powder and the blankets,


marten and the rest of

the ball

and

will take the

the fine furs." This proposition throws


a

new

upon

light

the question of weigh-

ing-machines and steelyards, and,

some

deliberation,

little

abide by the old plan of

it is

after

resolved to

letting the

white

trader decide the weight himself in his

yard

be as
the balance
let

fisher skins

against

own

put out of conceit

the trader observes, "Well,

and

and

Four Bears and his brethren are, how-

still

put your marten skins and your otter

round.

the part of the Four Bears,

elicits universal satisfaction all

carry out the idea

way,

brave

for

it

is

clear that the steel-

which no
and which

great medicine

can

understand,

is

can only be manipulated by a white


medicine-man.

VV

BUTIER

The Great Lone Land

1872

BRITAIN

ON THE PACIFIC - A VICEREGAL VISIT

^^Tiir

'^

/Mii

!^5ii8r^'
,-,

^J<S

tt.r-si=^

E.

D.

PANTER-DOWNES

Nanalmo, the coaling

station for the British

Navy on Vancouver

Island, British

Columbia

1859
Water-colour,

At

Nanalmo proper

Is

a population of

hundred souls all


depending on the old or Douglas mine.
The manager informed us that they
would probably ship fifty thousand tons

7x9

inches

ing from two to three dollars a day. Anew


seam, nine feet thick, had lately been discovered below the old one; and we went
down the shaft three hundred feet to see

glomerate rock that they were

away

now

cut-

an hundred thousand or more. They

The coal was of the same excellent


which is
the best for gas or steam purposes on the
Pacific coast. But the miners had come
upon a fault in the seam, caused by the

hope of its soon giving


out. The coal measures, which these few
seams now worked represent, extend
over the whole eastern coast of Vancouver Island, and, like those on the east
of the Rocky Mountains, are cretaceous
or of tertiary age. They are considered as
valuable as if they were carboniferous.

could give employment to

or sixty

dislocation of the strata, immediately

G M

men at once, at wages averag-

above and below, intruding a tough con-

Ocean

seven

or

eight

this

season, while

less

than

thirty

year, they

additional

last

year they shipped

thousand; and

would be

in a

that,

next

position to ship

fifty

it.

quality as that of the old mine,

li

192 1

ting

in

the

CRAM
to

Ocean

1873

LADY DUFFERIN

BRITAIN

ON

THFPACrFIC- A VirtRECAl

4% x 6%

Water-colour,

Tuesday, [August] 29th.


little

There

having our tender

Metlacatlah,

we

Wednesday, [August] 30th. It was


delightful, after yesterday's rain, to find a

to pilot us into

nightat sea; however, here


I

we are safe at

sea-beast to-day;

little

876

inches

very

is

should have spent the

anchor. saw one

weather has
pouring rain,

to tell of to-day, forthe

been desperately bad


and much fog. We have seen nothing in
the way of scenery, and had it not been
for

Columbia

Metlakatia, British

VISIT

and

lovely morning,

scenery of

must

tell

this

to see the beautiful

place to perfection; but

you to-day about our visit

started

in

and

it

In this

looks most

round

all

room Mr. Duncan and

it.

his Indi-

ancolleaguescarryonthebusinessofthe
place. Outside, there are gymnastics for
the boys.

boats directly

after

breakfast, our Staff being dressed in red,

As we approached

to please the Indians.

fire,

cheerful with people sitting

to the

Indian village of Metlacatlah.

We

equal share of the

The Prison stands opposite;


funny

little

it

is

tower, painted black below

and white above.

It

is

divided into two

it

jumped clear of the water several


times, and showed itself plainly a sea-

the shorethey (the Indians) fired ready to

present arms; a boarded place had been

rooms, the "black" prison being more


disgraceful than the "white." On the top

otter.

prepared on the grass

of this building there

Metlacatlah
ful

is

one of the most success-

of Indian missions.

It

is

entirely the

Duncan, who when he


came here found the Indians in a most

work

of a Mr.

savage condition.

among them, and

He
is

has lived entirely

regarded by them as

their father and their friend.

hear that the

influence he has, and the real

has done,

is

wonderful.

good he

and round
the village.

We

were

it

all

for us to stand on,

the inhabitants of

quite new, having been built entirely by

Room,"
and in a peculiar fireplace, which they
have in all the cottages, and which D.
[Lord Dufferin] would like to put into
some large hall somewhere. It is a good
next

saw

the "Council

it

sized square, in the center of the room,

with the chimney directly over

one

in the

is a stand for the


band! The Church comes next, and is

room

is

it.

Every

thus able to get an

My Canadian joufnaK

MARCHIONESS OF DUFFERIN AND AVA

193 1

J872-78

Mr. Duncan and the Indians.

The School is another very good building, and round its walls there are texts
and pictures. The pupils all learn to read
English, which they prefer for reading to
their native tongue their own words
are so very long. They translate what they
read into Tschimshyau.
1891

BRITAIN

ON

THE PACIFIC

-A VICEREGAL

VISIT

'-r**-

^^:.^#r-^
f^s^JjfB!*'

The Indians serenading the Governor-General,


Lord Dufferin, at Metlakatia, British Columbia

LADY DUFFERIN

Water-colour,

The Governor-Genera expressed a great


men sing one of their
national melodies (Heaven save the
mark!) but they begged to be excused on
the ground that they would be ashamed
to sing it before him on shore as they
were, but that they would follow the ship
and sing it in their canoes, which they did
on his return from Fort Simpson. don't
I

desire to hear the

think Mr.

Duncan encourages

reminis-

cences of their former life, which these


war songs are, and it struck me that he
threw, and successfully threw, cold
water on the Governor-General's bestowing any special mark of recognition

on the chief. He has toconduct his operations In a peculiar way, and it can easily

5%

7%

be understood that much of his advice


and direction would be thrown away,
were there a recognized authority over
the Indians other than himself.
to

make

to

He

strives

industry and merit the standards

by which the
measured, and

men
in

of the village are

presenting an address

which was
the singing was

the Governor-General,

done immediately after


concluded, there was no apparent priority or distinction amongst them.
.

He

[Lord Dufferin] then ordered the dis-

few presents that he had


and re-embarking
sailed away for Metlakahtia, where he
arrived in the evening, and was met by
tribution of a

brought

for

them,

194

1876

inches

the promised national howl from the


crews of Tsimpsean canoes that had
been waiting for him. Their song was the
dirge for the dead sung by a returning war
party.

It

appears

to

be the principal

of their former minstrelsy

and

is

relic

hardly

worth preserving. It is, as it is intended to


be, extremely melancholy, filled with
spasmodic exclamations, and calling

upon the dead, but iscalculatedtodefeat


its own end by leaving it open to doubt
whether the greater anguish should be
felt for the loss of the slain, or in view of
the fact that

some had been

to sing.

ST

lOHN

The Sea of Mountains

1877

still left

alive

LADY DUFFERIN

BRITAINON nil PAdllC -AVICERtCALVISlI

The Indian (otem poles at Skidegate,


Queen CharloHe Islands, British Columbia
Water-colour, 5 x

Thursday, 31 si. - We were to have started atdaybreak, but there was a thick fog,
which only lifted at 9:30; after that the
daywas beautiful, and we had a splendid

passage
Islands.
I

shall

over
I

to

suppose

ever be

at.

is

We

in

dies, his friends destroy his house, leav-

as

heraldic,

ing the

make
in,

framework and the pillar, and


hut for the dead body to lie

little

with a blanket nailed before

it.

We

symbols of rank. Some are carved the

whole way up with grotesque figures


and faces, some are painted; and in

many houses

sionaries evidently.

is

no missionary

but Mr. Collinson

anchored

These poles are


and are the monuments to
chiefs that
told you of before. Every
house seems to have one and, as
of bare poles.

forest

isthewildestplace

Charlotte's

is

com-

ing here from Metlacatlah.

which,

1876

inches

solely inhabited by

this
It

6%

saw one with two canoes outside, ready


to take the owner across the "silent
lake." On one house were two figures
with tall hats and frock-coats mis-

Queen

Indians, and as yet there

among them;

opposite

think

said, they are highly

the

door

pattern of the pillar,


a

village

the distance, looked like a

and

valued

is

a part of the

is

an oval hole,

through which you see the picturesque


Indian figures appearing.

195 1

When

man

MARCHIONESSOF nUFFERIN AND AVA

My Canadian lournai

i372-76

1891

It

BRITAIN

ON

THE PACIFIC - A VICEREGAL

grieves the heart of a lover of trees to

travel

through America. For hundreds


his eyes behold

and thousands of miles

nothing but wholesale destruction of


those noblest ornaments of the earth. Fire
everyvi/here, the axe everywhere, the

joint

barking-knife and the bill-hook

ravagers with the storm, the lightning,

and the flood all busy in pulling down


nature's forest handiwork and who
builds up anything in its stead?
THEEARLOFSOUTHESK

Saskatchewan and the Rocky Mountains

1875

The delay gave us time to walk round


Yale and up the river. The village itself
has a neat, clean, thriving appearance, as
if its

in

inhabitants had settled

down

to live

The scenery

in the

neigh-

the country.

bourhood

isof the grandest kind, varying

with every bend of the

wooded

gradual

and above, bald

eight hundred feet;

rocks shoot up

hundred

river. Hills rise in

slopes for five, six or

plumb

feet higher.

row, affording but

for ten or

The valley

little

room

twelve
is

nar-

for the

farmer.

CM. GRANT
Ocean

E.

to

Ocean

1873

SANDY

Logging on Vancouver Island,


British

Columbia

Water-colour,

lb%

24 inches

1%

VISIT

BRITAINONTHEPACIFIC-AVICERECAl

197

VISIT

BRITAIN

ON

THE PACiriC- A VICERECAL

VISIT

^^^^

F.

WHYMPER

Fort Yale, British

Water-colour,

We arrived at Yale about four o'clock


the afternoon,

in

and immediately ordered

the best dinner they could give us at the

Colonial Hotel. The house

Frenchman,

who

was kept by a

excelled himself on

occasion, and provided a meal


which tous, who had not eaten anything
this

deserving the

name of a dinner for at least

eighteen months, appeared perfection.

The champagne, however, and sundry


drinks with fraternising miners, caused

wake with most tremendous headaches next morning. Some of the visitors
us to

to the bar

Columbia

6% x 8%

amused

ca.

865

inches

us greatly.

One

tall

Yankee, considerably intoxicated, was


possessed with the idea that he was Lord
Nelson, and associating the great admiral

insome way with cucumbers,

eral in succession, to

prove

ate sev-

his identity.

The little town of Yale is merely a single row of houses facing the river, which,
having just escaped through the Canons,
here sweeps to the west, a broad and noble river. The town is built on a small flat,
backed on the north by lofty hills, and
looking down the widening valley to the

198

south,

where the receding mountains

tower up grand and high. The situation is exceedingly picturesque, and the
still

wooden

buildings were as
any Yankee could
desire. Cold may be obtained in the
street of Yale, and a couple of Indians
were working with a "rocker" opposite
the Hotel when we were there.
clean, white,

gay with

flags as

VISCOUNT MILTON ANOW.

B.

CHEAOLE

The North-West Passage By Land

865

ANONYMOUS

BRITISH

Yale

COIUMBIA

the road, miners are

down

river, all

still

to

be found.

These are chiefly Siwashes and Chinese,


who take up abandoned claims, and
wash the sand over again, being satisfied
with smaller wages than what contents a

white man. Their tastes are simple and

tains,

dollar fora bed, a dollar for a bottle of ale,

takes

man

cultivates

16%

x 28'/2 inches

whichthe Chinaman braids his hair, and


which he often folds at the back of his
head, instead of letting it hang down his
back. The Pacific Indian is Mongolian in
size and complexion, in the shape of the
face, and the eyes. He has neither the
strength of limb, the manly bearing, nor

their expenses moderate. None of them


dream of going to the wayside hotels,
and paying a dollar for every meal, a

or twenty cents for a drink.

construction days, British Columbia

in

Pencil drawing,

At various points on the

THE WESTERN LIMIT

the dignity so characteristic of the Indi-

ans on the east side of the Rocky Mounbut he is quite as intelligent, and

more

readily to civilized ways.

The China-

vegetables beside his

claim; these and his bag of rice suffice for

him, greatly

to the

indignation of the or-

Gold was and

other

in

nomads with almost

appearance so much

each

that

it

would be difficult to distinguish them,


were it not for the long tail or queue into

it

and
is

at

little

wonder that the way to Cariboo, and the


country

itself

proved

to

be the grave of

many an adventurous gold seeker. A few


made fortunes, in a week or a month,
which as

a rule they dissipated in less

than a year; hundreds gathered modera-

sums, which they took away to


spend elsewhere; thousands made
wages; and tens of thousands, nothing. It
had been the same in California, when
tely large

masses who were unsuccessful could


notgetoutof the country, and they had
fortunately for themselves to hire out
as farm servants and herdmen. In British
Columbia they could get back to Oregon
and California, and back they went,
poorer than they had come, but leaving

est quantities

relationships, resemble

toil,

gold was discovered there, but then the

in

one representing an ancient civilization,


tribal

the daily risk of starvation;

had
tobe found in large quantities to enable a
mantolive.Apoundofflourcostadollar

found

of the river and in every creek; but

no

forced only with incredible

every sandbar

is

thodox miner. The Siwash catches salmon in his scoop net from every eddy of the
river, and his wife carries them up to the
house and makes his winter's food.
These two classes of the population, the
the other scattered

range of stern hills wooded from base to


summit, through which a way could be

and a

and everything

half,

else sold at

proportional prices. The gold


this was
ofsilt

was in larg-

near the bed rock, and

generally covered with a deposit

from

ing but

it

five to forty feet thick, contain-

little

the surface.

the Province

little

the better for Iheir visit.

of the precious metal near

The country presented every


upon

obstacle to prospecting. Range

199

G-M GRANT

Ocean

lo

Ocean

1873

BRITISH

EDWARD ROPER

was seated during that afternoon by a


amongst ferns and rosebushes, ma king a sketch up the river, and
while there was much amused with the
I

road-side,

strange diversity of people

by

me along a

First

Celestials,

poles,

fit

passed

side-wal k across the road.

came by some

latest style,

who

for

with

ladies, dressed in the

Bond
their

Street.

Then two

pig-tails,

their

and swinging baskets. After them

Thecityof

New Westminster, the capital

Columbia, stands in a commanding position, on ground gradually


risingfrom the river, which is here threequarters of a mile broad. The town has
been beautifully laid out by Col. Moody,
RE., the late Commissioner of Lands and
Works, and several streetsof good wooden houses already exist.
of British

The great drawback

to

its

situation

is

COLUMBIA - THE WESTERN

New Westminster,

The boardwalk

at

Water-colour,

2Vi x 20'/4 inches

came along,
number of
young

LIMIT

British

Columbia

laughing and shouting, a


school

Britishers,

children

was

sure.

regular

Then two

1887

(young ones). Then some more

some

then

Indians;

afterwards

white labourers, and so on

ladies,

some

a continual

smug, well-dressed Chinese gentlemen,


in complete Chinese dress, but wearing
straw hats ike ours, and each carrying an
English silk umbrella neatly furled. By

procession of all kinds of people, but

and by there passed by me some Indian


men, followed by a party of gailyshawled klootchmans, with their tenas

frequently.

the

dense

forest of

timber of the largest

The little clearing which has been already done has


been effected with great labour by the

size

by which

itis

shut

in.

such as you

The place

is still

unsightly,

from the stumps of trees sticking up on

200

at

home so

1891

is

navigable to

this

twenty

feet of water,

and, should direct

communication
England,

carried out.

town

point for vessels drawing eighteen or

As

enough, the expense of clearing it


is so heavy that but little farming has been

Trail

every side. The river

several years; but, although the land


fertile

will see in a

ROPER

By Track and

help of the engineers quartered there for


is

all

looked well-to-do. did not see in all that


place one specimen of pauper humanity,

yet,

it

be established with
mayevenlually rival Victoria.

however,

eclipsed by that

it

is

completely

more favoured

VISCOUNT MILTON AND W.

city.

CHEADLE

The North-West Passage By Land

1865

LUCIUS RICHARD O'BRIEN

BKIIISHC

OIUMBIA

The Rocky Mountains


Water-colour, 21 Vi x

no sharp line dividing vegetanaked rock. A beltof harder


rock intervening breaks the forest; one or
two hundred feet above, the trees may
But there

is

tion from the

the Pyramid

VVESIFRMIMII

Till

of British

29%

Columbia

Mountain supported by a
which his

great rampart of rock, from

reappear in a long thin streak along the

head rose gracefully, still closed


and a cluster of snow-clad
peaks surrounded him at a respectful

side of the mountain, like a regiment in

distance.

line, or in a dense grove, like a column;


and a different stratification above stops
them again. The same change of strata
probably accounts for the absence of
snow from belts which have snow above
and beneath them; far away these bare
bells look like highways winding round

through woods growing along the sides

lofty

the view;

From time

of burns rushing

to time

down

us,

passed

into the lake.

is a wonderful combination of
beauty about these mountains. Great
masses of boldly defined bare rock are

There

united to the beauty that variety of form,


colour, and vegetation give.
river with

many

tributaries,

ing a distinct range,


ten

miles

long,

and

a beautiful lake

embosomed

CM, GRANT
Ocean to Ocean

201

three

thousand three hundred feet above the


sea, among mountains twice as high,
offer innumerable scenes, seldom to be

artist.

seemingly as near as ever;

noble

each defin-

found within the same compass,

the mountain. Behind, Myette reared his

head over

we

The woods prepared us for fresh prospects beyond, so that the eye had a
perpetual feast

1887

inches

1873

to the

BRITISHCOLUMBIA-THE WESTERNLIMIT

EDWARD ROPER
San luan Island and Mount Baker
from Vancouver Island, British Columbia
1887
Water-colour,

14%

the great feature in the

landscape

We could hardly help

day.

nameofthe

British

Vancouver's ship
in

still

the country that

first

saw

it,

and

entered the Haro

San

Juan

from

Strait

Van-

Haro Channel and Vanislets and two

part of the

couver's Island, are several

bears the

narrowchannels,thatshipsgoingto Vicmay take. South of these, there is


nothing between San Juan and the

Naval Officer in Capt.

who

we

couver's Island. Between the northern

stead of ourselves possessed so glorious


it

inches

separates

that

feelingenviousthatthe United Statesina landmark; especially as

29%

Before noon

Mount Baker was


all

toria

is

was formally taken


Crown m

possession of for the British

southern extremity of Vancouver, but the

1792, and that had been, up to 1846,


held by a British Company, indeed, it is

therefore evident that while San Juan

difficulttoconceiveof any plausible ex-

would be

cuse that the United States could have


brought forward, in claiming the country

purposes,

round Puget's Sound. They knew

the entrance to British waters, British

Haro

Strait, six

States

its

is

or seven miles wide.

its

possession by the United

menace to us; for it commands

and British Provon San Juan about a


thousand feet high, a battery on which
would command the whole Strait.
shores, a British river,

did not, but his brother had said that the

ince.

for

Ocean

There

M GRANT

lo

is

useless to Britain for military

value, and the British Premier, not only

whole country was not worth much;


the salmon wouldn't take a fly.

It

Ocean

202

1873

is

hill

THfVUkON

IHflASIRUSH

1|

A. E. BOULTBEE
Our camp on Mosquito Creek, Yukon

Water-colour,

It

is

a great mistake to take anything ex-

cept what

is

necessary; the

trip

is

a long

14 with walls
eight feel

in

7%

high and gables


The roof is heavily

earthed and the cabin


four

men

men who have

The

ventilation

is

generally kept

very warm. Two, or sometimes three or


will live in a
is

house of this

size.

usually bad, the win-

no expense in procuring
and most varied outfit of food
that can be obtained.
In a cold climate such as this, where it
is impossible to get fresh vegetables and

therefore spare
the best

fruits,

it is

most important

that the best

substitutes should be provided. Nature

entirely unnecessary. Revolvers will

dows being very small. Those miners


who do not work their claims during the

no use of

winterconfine themselves to these small

cranberriesand other wild

game

huts most of the time. Very often they

dance, but

become

too busy to avail themselves of these.

with
is

loaded themselves up

1898

inches

six feet

height.

arduous one, and a man should not add


of baggage to his outfit that
can be dispensed with.
have known

one pound

10%

rifles,

revolvers and shot-guns. This

get you into trouble,

taking

and there

them with you, as

is

large

of

any character is rarely found on the trip.


have prospected through this region for
some years and have only seen one
moose. You will not see any large game
whatever on your trip from Juneau to
Dawson City, therefore do not take any
I

firearms along.

The miners here area very mixed class


of people. They represent many nationalities and come from all climates. Their
lives are certainly not enviable.

The regulation miner's cabin

is

2 by

which are most

cooked or prepared. During


in,

in

fruits in

summer

The diseases met with

easily

the busy

men

abun-

are usually

in this

country

are dyspepsia, anaemia, scurvy caused

summer when they are shovelling

by improperly cooked food, sameness of

they work hard and for long hours,

diet,overwork, want of fresh vegetables,

much

overheated and badly ventilated houses;

time

in

sparing
less for

indolent and careless, only eat-

ing those things

helps to supply these wants by growing

little

time for eating and

cooking.

This manner of living isquite

common

amongst beginners, and soon leads to


debility and sometimes to scurvy. Old
miners have learned from experience to
value health more than gold, and they

{203

rheumatism, pneumonia, bronchitis, enand other acute diseases,

teritis, cystitis

to wet and cold; debility


and chronic disease due to excesses.

from exposure

LAOUt

Klondyke Facts

897

THE

YUKON -THE

LAST

RUSH

A.

BOULTBEE

E.

A group of

cabins at the upper end


of Klondike City, Yukon
1898
Water-colour,

7%

10%

inches

Friend George: Don't pay any attention


towhat anyone says, butcome inatyour
earliest opportunity.

pallingtohearthe

My

God!

it

is

ap-

truth, but nevertheless

produced its equal


come. That's all. Your

the world has never


before. Well,
friend,

"Casey"

From

a letter
I

quoted

Klondyke Facts

in

LADUE

204

1897

EPILOGUE

and

a continuous line of loyal

the grain elevators reaching

The Dominion of Canada stretched from

up,

the Atlantic to the Pacific, from the

Provinces extend from the Atlantic

from the

Arctic shores to the 49th parallel.

to the Pacific.

narrow band of uniting steeL

Its

fer-

centre was empty of people, but


would soon be crossed by a thin steel
ribbon that bound the East to the West.
tile

Looking fairly at all the facts, admitting all the difficulties

and

what

country has not drawbaclcs it is


impossible to avoid the conclusion
that

we have

and

a great

fertile

North-west, a thousand miles long

and from one

to four

hundred miles

broad, capable ofcontaininga population of millions.


rich in furs

and

a fair land;

It is

fish, in

the forest, the field,

treasures of

and

the mine;

seamed by navigable rivers, interlaced by numerous creeks, and


beautiful with a thousand lakes;

to

Ocean

1873

There was a steady campaign to encourage emigration from the British Isles.
Lord Lome, Queen Victoria's son-in-law
and Covernor-Ceneral of Canada,
from
the
emigration
encouraged
Old Country by commissioning correspondents like S.P. Hall from the
British

and

newspapers

opportunities
tion

that

pure, dry,

and bracing all

health

and

strength of

length of days. Here

home

for

our

own

body and

we have

surplus popula-

and for the stream of emigration


that runs from northern and central
Europe to America. Let it be opened
up to the world by rail and steamboat, and in an incredibly short lime
tion

the present gap between Manitoba


and British Columbia will be filled

come

to

Canada

the magnificent

existed.

Immigra-

Europe
Mennonites,

from

Continental

was

sufencouraged. The
fering from persecution in Czarist Russia,

were invited to take up lands specially set


Americans from the
South and Canadians from the Eastern

homes and set out

is

to

on

report back

great desert or by giant mountains.


air

skyward

the railway

We know

that

Northwest,

we have
country

a great

old

like

Canada not suited for lotus-eaters

aside for them.

the year round: giving promise of

and

GRANT

Ocean

broken by swelling uplands, wooded hill-sides, and bold ridges; and


protected on its exposed sides by a

The

plain,

flat

provinces

also

left

their

established

to farm the incredibly

Canadian West with often


The West did fill up,
butnot at the rate expected. The vagaries
of Nature and the world economic situation impeded the Canadian government's attempts to settle the West almost
from the outset. However, the potential
was there and is still being tapped in
the Northwest by a hardy breed of
twentieth-century pioneers. The Prairies
became characterized by the sparse
rich soil of the

outstanding

results.

population, the space, the acres of grain.

205

to live in, but fitted to rear a healthy

and hardy race. The late Hon. W.H.


Seward understood this when he
declared that "Vigorous, perennial,

evergrowing Canada would be a


Russia behind the United States."
Our future is grander than even
that conceived by Mr. Seward, because the elements that determine
it are other than those considered
by him. We shall be more than an

American

because

Russia,

the

separation from Great Britain to


which he invites us is not involved
in

We

our manifest destiny.

lieve that

union,

union

that

be-

better than dis-

is

loyalty

is

better

growth than
pulling down. The ties that bind us
to the Eatherland must be multiguarantee

plied, the

and

true

for

connection made closer


complete. Her

politically

traditions,

her forms, her moral

her historic grandeur


be ours forever. And if we

elevation,
shall

share her glory,

even

respons ibilities
Ocean

we

at the outset

to

Ocean

shall not shrink

from sharing her

'

1873

IMMIGRATION

THE STEERAGE PASSENGERS


consistedof nearly all the nationalities

in

Europe, but, of course, the majority were

from

Kingdom,

United

the

number

being

members

labourers,

large

agricultural

English

who

of the Union,

were emigrating through the lock-out in


the Eastern Counties, the Union assisting
to

pay their passage. When Isawsomany

workmen

fine stalwart

of desti-

in a state

tution, leaving the wealthiest country in

the world because they could not get sufficient


live

remuneration

decently,

labour to

for their

could not help exclaim-

ing with Shakespeare, there

is

SOMETHING ROTTEN

IN

THE STATE OF DENMARK."

Being a working man,

had no difficulty
making myself a home among them,
and wassorry to see that many were ill itI

in

erate, a strong

evidence of the poverty of

theirearly years; the richly endowed and


state-paid educational establishments,

and

religious

had

secular,

neglected those poor slaves,

entirely

they

for

were nothing else; the reader may raise a


technical objection to this remark, and
say that no man is bought or sold in
England, but
are starved

reply, that

and

if

not sold they

brutalised.

O'LEARY

p.

Travels

and Experiences

in

Canada

no dale

Sunday, June 23rd


have attended a meeting

We

steerage,

where some of

the

in

the

Canadian

passengers talked to the emigrants about


the country they are going

to.

Dufferin] also spoke, and told

D. [Lord

them

that

Canada they need never complain, as


he had heard one of them do, 'that he

in

had too many children,' for that there


more they had the better. An enthusiastic young man on hearing this
slapped D. on the back and said, 'That
is just what
have been telling Emily.'
the

MARCHIONESS Of DUFf ERIN AND AVA

My Canadian journal,

1872-78

THE DISCIPLINE
of the "Scandinavian"

was everything

could be desired, the crew and passengers being prohibited as far as possithat

ble

from

intermingling.

steerage passengers slept in

The

male

hammocks

slung from the decks, the


children

in

women

bunks along the

and

sides, the

single females having a place partitioned


off

away from

the others; the children

sent out by

206

MISS MCPHERSON

were taken excellent care of, every one


trying to do them some little kindness;
they were under the charge of two young
ladies and a gentleman, who paid every

*'./ r

IMMIGRATION

^^l^jljf(P

4?

^}

(/f^ti^iui'^yrTi

attention to their

little

childish fancies,

Captain Smith himself setting the example. Those little creatures sung delightfully

every morning and evening to as

appreciative an audience as ever listen-

donna at Covent
Garden; they were well clad, and bore
evidence of good care in every way.
ed, even to a prima

f-

OLEARY

Travels

and Experiences

in

Canada

207

no date

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL


Immigrants on board ship
Pencil drawing,

8% X

878

14 inches

IMMIGRATION

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL

How Mr.

Norquay
mountain
Manitoba
1881

raised a
in

hm?'-<^^;^A**M^'
Society at Winnipeg is very pleasant;
composed chiefly of the old families who
formed the Hudson Bay Company and
their

descendants,

Indian blood

many

of

in their veins.

whom

have

Theireduca-

begun by their parents, is


often completed in Scotland, and they
tion, carefully

are

well-read,

intelligent

people,

as

proudof their Indianasoftheir European

Pencil drawing,

r^^V^/

6% X 4Vi

/;v/.A4)t V'-4*'/.i^.-

Many

descent.

ol iheiii are

handsome

and distingue-looking. Their elegant appearance sometimes leads to awkward

One of these

inquired

how

inches

long she had been

in

the

country? Making him a stately curtsy, she

answered

my

am one

meeting a
young Englishman fresh from the old
country, and full of its prejudices, was

said afterwards she

entertained by him with reflections on

fellow's discomfiture; but he brought

mistakes.

race,

ladies,

and condolences,

sociate

with

at

having to asAt

half-castes.
M. FITZCIBBON

Trip to

Manitoba

208

880

last

he

"All

life!

of these despised

half-breeds," and instantly

left

him. She

was sorry for the poor

upon himself by disregarding all her


forts to change the conversation.

it

ef-

iMMir.RAiinv

,^

i>U\E> PRIOR HALL


Mr. Cauchon's garden party on
the occasion of Lord Lome's
visit to

Winnipeg, Manitoba
1881

Pencil drawing, 4Vi x BVi inches

LORNES RECEPTION
need not occupy muc h space, as the telegraph despatches sent from time to lime
have doubtless given all the leading facts
connected therewith. On arrivingon Saturday night. His Excellency and party
went straightway to Silver Heights,
which had been very handsomely fitted
up for them by Donald A. Smith. Unfortunately just about the

time of Lord

grocery house. The arches were both

racecourse His Excellency was present-

about the best

ed with an address by the members of the


St. Andrew's Society, to which His Ex-

rather pretty, but that


that

is

can be said of the decorations. An

address by the civic authorities was


presented to His Excellency and appro-

responded to.
Tuesday His Excellency and some

priately

On

of his party attended a picnic at Bird's

Hill.which was given by the


the Local

Government.

members of

Later in the after-

some time waiting

Lome's arrival a telegram brought the


melancholy announcement that Mrs.

noon they waited


to witness the

launch of the steamer Prin-

Smith was dangerously

cess, but she

caught on the ways and

ill

in

the old

country, and of course Mr. Smith

was

obliged to hurry away.

The Winnipeg welcome to His Exwas very enthusiastic, but the

cellency

decorations

fell

considerably short of

had been led to exp)ect. One of


the mottoes at least was extremely silly,
while another and prominent one was
simply a "cheap and nasty" advertisement of some sort of dry-goods or

what

for

delayed the ceremony so long

that the

distinguished visitors were obliged to

leave before

it

had been concluded.

In

the evening His Excellency attended a

banquet given in his honour by Lieutenant Governor Cauchon.

On Wednesday, thecivic holiday. His


Excellency attended a cricket match
Dufferin

games

and

Park,

at the

the

racecourse. While
TORONTO

Globe

August 20, 1881

209

at

Caledonian
in the

cellency replied.

On

Thursday

afternoon

His

Ex-

cellency and suite attended a garden


party at Government House,

were

met

by

the

where they
and

Chancellor

members of the

University of Manitoba,
by whom an address was presented, and
the usual reply given. In the evening His

Excellency gave a dinner party

at Silver

Heights.

On

Friday Lord

Lome visited the peni-

Horny Mountain, and the HisSociety's rooms at Winnipeg.

tentiary at
torical

On
visited

Saturday (to-day) His Excellency


St.

Mary's Academy at Winnipeg,

the Archepiscopal Palace, the

Orphan-

age of the Grey Nuns, and the College at


St. Boniface in the forenoon, and went to

Emerson

in

the afternoon.

f^^

IMMIGRATION

i/v

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL

The

last

of the line near Portage

Pencil drawing, 4Vi x

We

move westward, and take the


theCanadian Pacific Railway. Ex-

will

lineof

cellently
train

can proceed

but as
track

over flat or rolling prairie, a

la id

we
we

at

almost any speed;

proceed along the solidly-laid


can take some notes. As we

again take the "cars" and until


the Assiniboine,

on the

we reach

frontiers of the

we see on our
and usually nearer to us,
clumpsand bands of poplar wood. There
are also many lakes and lakelets pretty
ponds, for leware so large as to be worthy
of the name of lake; ponds where
numerous wild fowl seem to be for ever
swimming about among the rich reeds
on the margin, ponds around which
deep rank grass rises higher than anywhere else on the level summer meadows. There is many a tract where the
meadow appears still untouched by the
hand of man yet it has long ago, depend
upon it, been bought, and bought for a
province of Manitoba,
horizon-line,

6%

la Prairie,

Manitoba

1881

inches

good round sum, and is now being held


for a further advance in price. Why
should a further advance be expected?
The answer is simple. You need only
look north, east, south, and west, and
everywhere you will see the woodenplanked house of the emigrant. Often a

is

probable that the number has been yet

Never was

greater.

dowed

for the

a railway better en-

purposes of

its

existence,

Canadian Pacific Railway has


about 25,000,000 of acres in this fertile
belt, and of this vast amount they still at
for the

the

moment

present

hold

at

least

ing in the breezes;

17,000,000; and having the power to


choose the good lands.and beingableto

line

reject those

great patch of yellow wheat-field

is

bow-

each train along the


you are following has, during the
months,
carrying
summer
been
hundreds into Winnipeg, and hundreds
away from Winnipeg to the west.

Hundreds more have taken the trails


over the prairie for points to which
rail way companies are already directing
their attention, and to which lines are already projected or in process of completion. The arrival of yet more and yet
more, and the consequent rise in the value of the lands, is looked upon as a certainty. Last year 40,000 to 50,000 entered this land of promise, and thisyear it

210

which may be

became

possessed,

took the

line,

when

they

they under-

of a land-fortune which,

with the $25,000,000


the greatest

inferior,

in

cash,

wasone of

dowers ever granted. The

lineistheshortestfrom Europe to Asia by


at least
les

,000 miles. There are 2,700 mi-

of track from Montreal to the Pacific.

Truly a stupendous and most essential


enterprise!

MARQUIS OF LORNE

Canadian Pictures

884

IMMICRATIOS

^"^^^E^^^^^^
^J^
top^

-'^^'1-^^^ C^^^'^-^

tL.

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL


Lord

an

Lome

8-month

interviewing

settler

on the

prairies

1881
Pencil drawing,

The

settlers

have

their

came

to see the governor.

names, but

it is

enough

4'/4 x

thifty-five

land.

measured

new-turned
and they had

this

his oats,

strong straw four and a half feet high,

with well-filled ears. His house, and es-

bushels ot wheat to the

which was formed of


and covered
withhiswinterstoreof hay, were certain-

acre, seventy-five of oats,

of

and said

pecially steading,
logs piled

that

were an enormous crop.


have learned that hail-storms, though

the potatoes

very limited

inches

them

those already recorded.

gave

seventy of oats from

to say

that their statements tallied exactly with

One

in their

ly

the other,

plain enough. But they served his pur-

was commodious
enough to be used as a sort of run. He
built them both with his own hands at a

range, were very de-

pose, and his house

They areoneol the worst evils


thatsettlers have tocontend with. Icould
not find any who had suffered from
locusts. Next day found us in a rolling
plain, the view in all directions interrupted by clumps of poplar. M. R., a typical farmer, had come from Ontario fourteen months before. He came in June;
broke in twelve acres from the sod, and
eighteen in the spring, all now under
crop; expects thirty bushels of wheal and
structive.

one on

cost of $30.

He gets water at twelve feet,

likes the climate,

that of Ontario.

are

and thinks

He

itl:)etterthan

says that the heights

warmer and more

fertile

than the

hollows. The settler can disposeof all the


grain he grows
comer.

for

MARQUIS OF LORNE

Canadian Pictures

211

884

seed

to

the

new-

/O

IMMIGRATION

..ir-

.i*^

JH>3te>''.';^"'

'

'v-fi'

-^T;*^'^'^ '^

,^*i^:^ A-^C-

>^^f^^^^ ;'v;

I
.>

!*

4
SYDNEY PRIOR HALL
The

Bi?lrM

V,,.'

',"' ,,v>*

.^*^

**> ,L^

,fP.

..*)

,,'/
.

1881

prairie

Pencil drawing,

8%x 13% inches

This

was

a prairie

country of sand and

crisp grass, of level tracts varied with hi

Is

and bluffsand undulations, of many little


lakes and swamps scattered about here
and there. Flowers of the gayest colour
enlivenedthe landscape. Themostcom-

mon were

the small tiger-lilies and the


and next came blue-bells and
white strawberry blossoms. Sometimes
acres and acres were covered with intermingled masses of the orange lily and
the pendulous blue-bell, the whole of
roses,

212

them so short of stem that the glory of the


flowers combined with the rich greenness of their leaves, and it seemed as if a
vast carpet had been thrown upon the
plain

IMMICRAIION

"

^^

-^^^^^^

-^'^^i^^i '>^^i^-J^'^>;.^;:--*.
-

\i

r'

''f.J

yune 23rd. A fine day, but spoiled by


two or three thunderstorms, one es-

heavy while it lasted. Alter


walked on before the carts and
shot ducks till dinnertime. only bagged
four, though double that number fell.
pecially

breakfast

and even

for these

was obliged

to

wade

hip-deep everytime,fortheuselessretrieverasusual refused to bring themout.


in

The country was of the


rather

flat

prairie sort,

its

{213

swamp

their

abode.

and

than undulating, but every

small hollow had

which innumerable ducks made

or lake, in

THE EARL OF SOUTHESK

SaskMchewan and the Rocky Mountains

875

IMMIGRATION

^'^^^ifejr

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL/The

beginnings

GOVERNOR-GENERAL'S CAMP,
FORT CALGARY, SEPT, 12

1881 /Pencil drawmt;, 4

Mbert.i

thevalleyof
its

This morning we were early on the

move,

Bow

broad, low plain, and the great rich


valley,

aid of the fresh horses Calgary could be

tonwood, wild

in

one

hitch.

We rattled along at

looked

studded with grey poplars orcot-

tation.

ambulance and some of the loaded


waggons in grand style. Blanch and
Touchwood kept up to them without difficulty and Mr. Dewdney's buckboards
were also well to the fore, but the waggons drawn by horses brought through

leaves of

made

but sorry progress.

Five or six miles east of the Fort

over-

took Captain Perceval and Mr. Sidney

walking beside

buckboard
and doing their best to keep their
thoroughly "played out" Broncho on the
move. Luckily had Punch tied by the
halter to the back of my waggon, and
having harnessed him to the buckboard
Hall

their

in

the place of the tired Broncho, they

they were enabled to jog along for the

remainder of the distance


with the

in

company

cherries,

and willows,

some fancifully arrayed plan-

like

a lively pace, the fresh horses haulingthe

by Battleford

River and thatofoneof

chief tributaries, the Elbow, unite in a

Col. Irvine having decided that with the

reached

'j \ H''2 in( h.

slight

many

frost

had nipped the

of the trees, so that the

lovely autumnal shades of

lemon and

gold and orange and crimson contrasted


.

summer verdure

with the fresh

untouched

of the

THE CAMP
here

is

nearly or quite a mile and a half

from the ford, and

we have travelled, can


have not seen an acre of
I

land anywhere a long the route that is not


likely

sooner or later

for agricultural or

lack of fuel

is

to

be of value either

grazing purposes. The

for the present a serious

drawback, but unless am much mistaken coal will be found in such quantities
and so distributed throughout the
countryastomake fuel easily obtainable
in any part of the North-west, while the
I

construction of railways will ere long

But

trees.

through which
only say that

in a beautiful

make
much

the cost of building material very


less

than

is

it

at

present ....

FORT CALGARY

plateau

on the Elbow River. The camp commands a charming view of the Rocky
Mountains, and is in all respects the most
beautiful that we have had on the whole
journey from Winnipeg. The rows of
tents and waggons are laid out so as to
enclosea parallelogram with mathematical precision, and the little raised plateau, the whole of which is thus
enclosed, is almost as smooth and level

was once one of the regular posts of the


Mounted Police, but it has since been
reduced to an outpost, and only a noncommissioned officer and two constables reside within the stockade. The
Hudson Bay Company Bow River Post is
located here, and the American traders
Baker & Co., do an extensive trade
j.
here with the ranchers and Indians. The
ford being both deep and swift it was

asa

deemed advisable to ferry the passengers

prairie bluff over-looking Fort Calgary,

Inthiswhole region, so
have been able to observe,
THE SOIL

we have

consistsofa verypliablerich blackloam,

was generally

extremely productive, and deep enough


to be practically inexhaustable. We are

should travel by water from here to the el-

The valley of the river at this point is


much wider and the stream more tor-

now

of returning by the

tuousthanatBlackfootcrossing; indeed.

the character of every mile of country

rest of

the party. Late in the fore-

noon we reached

the verge of the high

andofall the charming pictures


seen on the journey
admitted to be by

this

far the

most

beautiful.

billiard table.

far as

almost 1,000 miles west of Win-

nipeg,

and

after

having carefully noted

214

and baggage
built for the
it

in

the boats which

was intended

bow

had been

use of His Excellency,


that he

and

when

his party

Saskatchewan instead
way of Helena as they
have since determined to do.
of the South

TORONTO

Globe

October

10,

1881

IMMICRATION

A tew hours lietorcour arrival,

Mw n

r.

Mr. Clark

had received intelligence from Edmonton, that Yankee free-traders from Belly
River had entered the country, and were
selling rum to the Indians in exchange for
their horses. The worst consequences
were feared, as when the Indians have no

-*^?^

horsestheycannot hunt. When they cannot hunt they are not ashamed to steal
horses, and horse-steal ng leads to wars.
The Crees and Blackfeet have been at
peace for the last two or three years, but,
if the peace was once broken, the old
thirst for scalps would revive and the
i

country be rendered insecure. Mr. Clark

spoke

bitterly of the

helplessness of the

consequence

authorities, in

of having

had no force from the outset to back up


the proclamation that had been issued.
Both traders and Indians, he said, were
learning the dangerous lesson that the
Queen's orders could be disregarded
with impunity. We comforted him with
the assurance that the Adjutant-General

SYDNEY PRIOR

1^

was coming up to repress all disorders


and see what was necessary to be done

HALL

peace of the country.

for the future

Making allowances for the fears of


those who see no protection for life or

4^^'

]^^

property

r\
i
Mounted

Police

^jfc,

-i^&/

expresses,

VLV

Colonel Herchmer,
North West

Mounted

Police

Mounted

UE
1^^

Police

1881
Pencil drawing,
1 3'/? X 8% inches

times the
there

is

if

the govern-

fifty

first.

men

if

Three or four

each,

like

those

be sufficient for

judiciously stationed. Ten

number may be required

if

long delay. The country cannot

of the Manitoba
The Crees are anxious for a
treaty. The Blackfeet should be dealt
with firmly and generously; treaties
made with both on the basis of those
agreed upon in the east; a few simple
repetitions

afford

rebellion.

lawsfor the proteclionoflifeand proper-

Imi

Corporal Shaw,
North West

of

the purpose,

iilK

Pencil drawing,

bVixAVi inches

clear that

now in Manitoba, would

1881

is

Northwest from the

ABOVE RIGHT

it

companies

WW

Pencil drawing,
3% X 3Vi inches

ment wishes to avoid worrying, expensive, murderous difficulties with the Indians, "something must be done." There
must be law and order all over our

Iw*^-^

^yr^

or

where there are no newspapers and no


means of communication except

"mv

1881

hundred

five

country of such magnificent distances,

^/^%
Colonel Irvine,
North West

within

thousand milesofthem, and fortheexaggerated size to which rumours swell in a

ty

explained to them, and their obser-

annuities
small
enforced;
allowed; the spirit-traffic prohibited, and
schools and missionaries encouraged.

vance

'"^^'"^^^k.^lhpu.tBtl'-^'

''^-''
C M GRANT

*(

[215

ean

to

Ocean

1873

IMMiCRATION

'1

l\\

'k

1881

Thefoothillsof the Rockies

SYDNEY PRIOR HALL

Pencil drawing, 4'/2 x

7%

inches

An immense plain stretched from my feet


to the

mountain

plain so vast that

and wood and lake


lay dwarfed into one continuous level,
and at the back of this level, beyond the
pines and the lakesand the river-courses,

every object of

hill

rose the giant range, solid, impassable,


silent

mighty barrier

rising

midst an

immense land, standing sentinel over the


plains

and

prairies of

America, over the


this Great Lone

measureless solitudes of
Land. Here, at

last,

lay the

Rocky Moun-

tains.

VV

BUTLER

The Great tone Land

216

\872

.?'aazi_

THE PRAIRIES OCCUPIED

Water<olour,

Verydifferent implements areused there

farm-work; they are

all

much

lighter

They use
do
so; self-binders always. They thresh on
the field; no barns are needed. The straw
and cheaper than in
machinery wherever

Britain.

possible to

it is

ispracticallyworthless. "Sulky" ploughs


are in

common

guiding

work

it

use.

The man

on

rides

it,

with a lever. They appear to

perfectly,

with very

much

less

any rate.
Everything is adapted to make work
easyandquick. Thehorsesused inManitoba, and all through Canada, are not
half so heavy as ours; they seemed to do
labour to the man,

at

much more work

very

with

them,

though.

Horses and
thrive

on

in

men haveto work there far


England; but both seem to

it.

Carberry and round


cal

MVt

x 20'/4 inches

north and south of the track the

same

prosperity prevails wherever there has

been settlement. could


I

relate

hundreds

of instances of successful settlers,

some

who have gone there with money, some


without. One man from Kentwentoutin
1881 with 200 and two sons, and in
1887 he had 960 acres, he had 8,000
bushels of wheat, he had 2,700 dollars

Manitoban

it

village

merely a typiand locality-

is

another

set of incidents

given quite op-

met many in other parts


of Canada who had left Manitoba and the
N.W.T. in disgust. Why?
The climate, they said, was unbearable, weather most terrible, summer

posite to them.

heats, mosquitoes, awful cold of winter,

no end
crop

of horrors; last year there

at all,

owing to

was no

the dry weather; the

worth of cattle, and his real estate was


worth 8,000 dollars.
Another man from Ireland arrived in
1 882 without a cent; now he owns 320
acres, has two teams of horses, eight
cows, a wifeandtwochildren, and 9,000

year before, early frosts ruined them, and

bushels of wheat.

farm-work;

it is

ple lo go to

who

These are the sort of instances heard


of time and again. Why repeat them?
They tan be seen in print in any of the
Government and Railway pamphlets.
I

harder than

1887

Sulky ploughing near Carberry Mountain, Manitoba

EDWARD ROPER

for

They are nearly


counts, but,

true,

all

naturally,

217

there

these ac-

may be

soon, and soon.


The conclusion
.

summed up

in a

came

to

may be

very few words.

It

is

good enough country for those to go to


who have a ittle money, and understand
I

not

know what

country for peohave no money, and do

a terrible

real

hard work

ROPER

By Track

.ind Tmi/

1891

is.

THE PKAIKIES OCCUPIED

r-A:
.'

'''-

-: /.-

>s;
^.

/
.^-

.-.
'

.*':

t*//..

- :'.'>;',

'V

^r.

-.'*>

-*
'',,

I,

REDDER

The railway

and corn elevators

station

Pen and ink drawing, S'A

Sepl.

26

[ 1

890] - Made a most


.

interest-

ing expedition to Mr. Sandison's farm,


five or six miles

from Brandon. Mr.

S.,

les).

His men's work hours are as follows;

- Half-past

6 to half-past

hours; half-past

He does

Scotchman, began without a cent seven

hours.

years ago. Hired himself out

longer hours.

at first,

then

took a small section, and has gradually

added

He

stooks,

employs a great deal of labour, mostly


Scotchmen, probably giving at this time

broken;

of the year about %VI-i a day.

He

has 33

teams of horses (66 horses), and three


teams of driving horses. A team sometimes goes with grain into Brandon with
loads three times

in a

day

(total,

30 mi-

it

rest,

to half-past 6; total,

not find

threshes

by purchase or hire,
till he farms above 5,000 acres. He is still
quite a young man perhaps 30. He
to this, either

Brandon, Manitoba

at

answers

to

and leaves the straw

in.

Can

thresh 3 12'/2 quarters (2,500 bushels) in


a day! but straw

wheat

is

it

is

is

very short and

used to

fire

cleaned again

much

the engine.

The

at the elevator

before being put on the railway.

goes
direct there, and a certain percentage is
charged for dirt with Sandison probably about 5 per cent.

The men

month, and board.

saw some splendid black oats grown


80 or 90 bushels to
acre(?), they said. admired a stable well
the farm, about

guarded with

get

3 feet of

sods almost the

had seen in the country.


Mr. Sandison and his wife live in the
most tumble-down old shanty, though
his stables, barns, &c., are most excelbelieve he frequently goes to
lent.
Scotland, and brings out fresh men for
of the kind

his farm.

It

$35

DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

The

V(s/r

Canada

218

889

do

grain from the

his

on

first

all

ca.

x 7'/2 inches

In

of the

1890

Tenant-Farmer Delegates
1891

To

THEPRAIKIESOCCUPIEO

J.

REDDER

Salvation

Army meeting

at

Calgary

Pen and ink drawing, bVi x

make

The Salvation Army was the great attraction yesterday. Early in the morning they

tive.

commenced

ing last night.

operations by a Hallelujah

Feast at the Barracks.

From 10

11

to

o'clock, they paraded the streets, led by

Capt.

Young and

his concertina,

the proceedings

9'/4

still

ca.

1889

inches

more

attrac-

There was a large crowd at the meet-

August 26.

887

assist at the

this

Capt. Mercer of the Salvation

week.

Army ar-

rived here from theeast last night and will

take charge of the station here. Capt.

Mercer has earned quite a reputation in


the work, and her presence will nodoubt

Ise in

town

in

inaugural meetings. After

Sunday regular meetings will be held


each evening at 8 o'clock prior to which

singing the "catchy" airs

hold meetings every night

generally termed

They will

day or two and will hold their first service on Sunday next. Capt. Dawson, of
Victoria, will arriveon Friday morning to

and

which are the


chieffeatureofthe Army's work. Crowds
followed them around the streets and
filled the hall at the meetings. There was
no disorder and the Army were permitted
to do just about as they liked. They will

now more

'Salvation lasses.'
a

CAICARY

Herald

as they are

Capt.

Young who is m command


Army from Port Arthur

Salvation

be a parade through the streets.

of the

there wi

to the

Sunday morning

the 'hallelujah break-

to Ix' begun here at once,


Boynton Hall having been leased for a
period of three years, to be used as a bar-

at 7 o'clock and
army will be in full swing
and a fixed and permanent institution of
the town. Capt. Young goes east to-morrow morning.

racks. The post at Calgary will be in


charge of Capt. Mercer, Lieut. Patterson

CAICARV

coast,

is

in

town.

In

conversation with

him, he intimated that the work of the

Army was

and Cadet

Iverich, all of

219

them

ladies, or

fast' will

te discussed

generally the

Tribune

August 19, 1887

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Alexander, Sir
ploration in

)-E.

L'Acadie, or Seven Years' tx-

America. 2 vols, Henry


Colburn, London: 1849.
Anonymous. The Case and Claim of ihe American
Loyalists Impartially Slated and Considered.
British

London: 1783.
Back, C. Narrative of an Expedition in H.M.S.
Terror, Undertaken with a View to Geograph-

Discovery on the Arctic Shores in the Years


;8J5-37.|ohn Murray, London: 1838.
Ballanlyne, R.M. Hudson's Bay. (2nd edition).
William Blackwood and Sons, Edinburgh:
ical

1848
By Shoe and Canoe. 2 vols. Published
London: 1850.
Bishop, Isabella L. The English Woman in America. \ohn Murray, London: 1856.
Bonnycastle, Sir R.H. Canada As It Was. Is, and
May Be. 2 vols. Colburn &Co., London: 1852.
The Canadas in 1841. 2 vols. Henry
Colburn, London: 1 841
Bigsby,

J.J.

privately,

Topographical Description ol the


Province ol Lower Canada. W. Faden, London:
1815.
The British Dominions in North America.

Bouchette,

J.

Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, and

vols.

Green, London: 1832.


Brooke, F. The History ol Emily Montague. T.
1769; McClelland and
Dodsley, London:
Ltd., Toronto; 1961
W.F. The Creat Lone Land. Sampson Low,
London: 1872.
Calgary Herald. August 26, 1887.

Stewart

Butler,

Calgary Tribune, August 19, 1887.

Voyage of His Majesty's Ship RosaNewfoundland and the Southern


Coast of Labrador. \. Mawman, London: 1818.

Chappell,

mond

E.

to

J.P.) Quebec and/Is


Cary& Co., Quebec: 1831,

(Cockburn,
Cockloft,

Quebec. Province of Lower Canada


181 1. Edward Ward, Bermuda: n.d.
Coke,

E.T.

Thomas

Made

Observations,

Cursory

J.

Environs.

in

in the

Year

Subaltern's Furlough. Saunders

and

Otiey, London: 1833.

Cook,

A Voyage

J.

edition). H.

Cozzens,

F.S.

to the Pacific

Ocean. (2nd

Hughs, London: 1785.


Acadie:

Noses. Derby

&

or,

A Month

Jackson,

New York:

Department of Agriculture.

The

1859.

Visit

of

the

Tenant-farmer Delegates to Canada in 1890.


McCorquodale & Co., London 89
Duffenn and Ava, Marchioness of. My Canadian
lournal, 1872-78. D. Appleton and Company,
:

New York:
Ellice,

K.

J.

1891.
Diary.

Manuscript

in

the

Public

woods.

Archives of Canada.
Fergusson, A. Practical Notes

Made During

Tour in Canada. William Blackwood, Edinburgh: 1831.


Fitzgibbon, M. A Trip to Manitoba; or. Roughing
on the Line. Rose-E3elford Publishing Company,
Toronto: 1880.
Franklin, J. Narrative of a journey to the Shores of
the Polar Sea in the Years 1819, 20,21, and 22.
John Murray, London; 1823.
Narrative of a Second Expedition to the
Shores of the Polar Sea in the Years 1825, 1826,
anc/ / 82 7. J.Murray, London: 1828.
Goldie. J. Diary of a journey Through Upper
Canada, 1819. Pnvately published, 1967.
(Original manuscript held in the Metropolitan

Toronto Public Library, Central Branch),


G.M. Ocean to Ocean. James Campbell,

Grant,

Toronto: 1873.
(ed).

Picturesque Canada. Beldon Bros.

Toronto; (1882).
Haliburton,

T.

C.

An

Account of Nova

Historical

and

Statistical

Scotia. 2 vols. Joseph

Howe,

Halifax: 1829.

Halifax Evening fxpress. September 12, 1859.


Hall, B. Travels in North America in the Years

1827 and 1828. 3 vols. Cadell and Company,


Edinburgh; Simpkin and Marshall, London:
1829.
Hardy, Lieut. C. Sporting Adventures in the New
World. 2 vols. Hurst & Blackett, London: 1855.
Hawkins, A, Hawkins's Picture of Quebec: with
Historical Recollections. Neilson and Cowan,
Quebec: 1834.
Hayman, R. Quodlibets, Lately Come Over from

New

Britaniola,

Old Newfoundland.

Rot)ert

Michell, London; 1628.

Through the Canadas. Richard


Phillips, London; 1807,
Hind, H,Y. et al. The Dominion of Canada. I.

Heriot, C. Travels

Stebbins, Toronto; 1869.

The Cold Region of Nova Scotia.


Ottawa; 1868.
lameson, A. Winter Studies and Summer Rambles
in Canada. Saunders and Otley, London; 1838.
Kingston Chronicle and Gazette, November 17,
Hunt, T.S.

1838.
Kingston,

with the Blue

W.H.G. Western Wanderings.

Chapman &

Hall,

2 vols.

London: 1856.

Ladue, J. Klondyke Facts Lovell, Montreal: 1897.


Lambert, J. Travels Through Canada and the
United States of North America. L. Cradouc

and W. Joy, London: 1814.


Landmann, G.T. Adventures and Recollections
of Colonel Landmann. 2 vols. Colburn and
Company, London; 1852.
Levinge,

Capt.

R.G.A. Echoes from the Back-

220

1.

&

D.A. Darling, London; 1849.

Records of the Forty-third


Regiment, Monmouthshire Light Infantry. W.
Clowes and Sons, London; 1868.
Historical

of. Canadian Pictures. Religious


Tract Society, London: 1884.
McGregor, ). British America. 2 vols. W. Blackwood, Edinburgh; 1832.

Lome, Marquis

Historical

the

Maritime

and Descriptive Sketches of

Colonies

of

America.

British

Longman, Rees, Orme, and Green, London:


1828.
Milton, Viscount, and W.B. Cheadle. The North-

west Passage 8y Land. Cassell, Pelter and Galpin, London; (1865).


Montreal, Canadian Illustrated News, January 5,
1878.

(Morgan, H.|.) The Tour of H.R.H. The Prince of


Wales Through British America and the United
States. |. Lovell, Montreal; 1860.
Nares, Capt. G.S. Arctic Expedition 1875-76.

London; 1877.
O'Leary, P. Travels and Experiences in Canada.
IB. Day, London: (1877).
Parry, Capt, W.E. lournal of a Second Voyage for
the Discovery of a North-West Passage. John

Murray, London: 1824.


E. 8y Track and Trail: a journey Through
Canada. W.H. Allen and Co. Ltd., London:
1891,
Rose, G, The Great Country: or Impressions of
America. Tinsley Brothers, London: 1868.
Smith, W.H. Smith's Canadian Gazetteer. H. &
Roper,

W. Rowsell, Toronto; 1846.


Southesk, The Earl of. Sas/tatchewan and the
Rocky Mountains. Edmonston and Douglas,
Edinburgh; 1875.
|ohn, M. The Sea of Mountains. 2 vols. Hurst
& Blackett, London: 1877.
Toronto Globe, October 6, 1869; August 20,
1881; October 10, 1881.
Traill, C.P, The Backwoods of Canada. Charles
St.

Knight, London; 1836,

Manitoba and North West Territories.


Department of Agnculture, Ottawa 878,
Warburton, G.D. Hochelaga: or, England in the
New World. 2 vols. (E. Warburton, ed.) H.
Coburn, London: 1846.
Trow,

I,

H.J. Diaries. Manuscript m the Public


Arc hives of Canada S/celches of North America
and the Oregon Territory, 1848. Dickenson

Warre,

and Co., London: 1848.


Travels Through the States of North
Weld,
America and the Provinces of Upper and Lower
Canada. John Stockdale, London: 1 799.
Winslow, journal, 1755. Nova Scotia Historical
I.

J.

Society; 1883-84.

Ackermann, Robert

(1

81 6/7-after 1860)

106-07
was possibly Robert Ackermanr}. a wood

This artist

engraver in
as

New

Canada. The

relationship

master

at the

Ontario.

No

who

York,

lists

his place of birth

similarity in style suggests a close

to George Ackermann, a drawing


School for Deaf and Dumb, Belleville,
family connection has yet been traced.

Henry Francis (1 803-1 879)


48,98, 103, 105, 108,116, 117
Commissioned m the 83rd Regiment of Foot, he
served in British North America in both Upper and
Lower Canada from 1838-1843
Ainslie,

Armstrong, William, A.R.C.A., (1822-19141


135, 142-43, 144, 184-85
Armstrong immigrated to Canada from Ireland in
J 85 1, and pursued careers as a civil engineer, a
photographer, and an artist in Toronto; and contributed to the Canadian Illustrated News. His
works were exhibited widely, including the Paris
Universal Exhibition of 1855. He was a founding
associate member of the Royal Canadian Academy,
and was widely known as a teacher in Toronto.

INDEX OF ARTISTS

M.P.,

he regarded himself as an architect and

artist;

worked

W.C. Storm
in

in

in

the office of Toronto architect

1886 and travelled

to the

Klondyke

1898.

Cartwrlght, Harriet (active 1832-1843)

112
Daughter of Conway Dobbs, of Dublin. Harriet
married Reverend R. D. Cartwrlght of Kingston in
1832.

(active

1838-1842)

This

The wife of Thomas Chaplin of the Coldstream


Guards, she accompanied her husband on posting
to Quebec in British North America 1838-1842.

ca 1876.

126,147

water-colourist.

Cranstone was an English artist, who travelled to


North America in 1859-60. His works were exhibited in the Royal Academy, the British Institu-

commander of H. M.S.

Dartnell,

Cranstone, Lefevre James (active 1845-1867)

38

tion

and

Suffolk Street Gallery. Fugitive Etchings

was pub/ished in 1849.

George

Russell

(1

as Surgeon, Medical Corps, First

Royal Regiment, Dartnell served in British North


America at Niagara and London in Upper Canada,
and in Quebec in Lower Canada, 1836-1843.

Thomas

Davies,

(1

737(?)-l 81 2)

Bastide, J.H. (active 1745-1758)

31

of North American waterfalls ca. 1768.

Amherstburg.

instructor at

He returned to

Woolwich and

England

to

become

editor of the Profes-

sional Papers for the Royal Engineers.

Commissioned

in

the

Royal Engineers,

Bastide

served at Louisbourg, Cape Breton, and Fort Anne


at Annapolis, Nova Scotia, during the Seven Years'
War.
Bayfield,

Fanny Amelia (1814-1 891)

127
Daughter of General Charles Wright, she married
Henry Wolsey Bayfield, who was Admiralty surveyor lor British North America in the years 181757. They lived in Quebec and Charlottetown.

Bland, James Fox (active

846-1 886)

37
76th Regiment of Foot, Bland
served in British North America, mostly at Halifax
from 1853-57. He was appointed Chief Instructor

Commissioned

in the

of Musketry, Madras, India in 1868.

Bouchette, Joseph

(1

The son of lean Baptiste Bouchette, loseph


Bouchette was a topographer who worked with
Surveyor-General of Lower
he succeeded. He published The
Description of the Province of

Holland,

whom

Topographical

Lower Canada (18(5, English and French} and


The British Dominions in North Amenca ( 1 83 1
i.

Boullbee, Alfred

E. (active

121

Commissioned in the 7 1st Regiment of Foot, Denny


served in British North America 1824-31 and
1838-48 at Quebec, Montreal, Kingston, and York.
He married the daughter of the Honourable lohn
Richardson of Montreal.

Lady Dufferin (1844-1936)

193,194,195
Born Hanoi Hamilton, Lady Dufferin married in
1862 and took up residence at Clandeboye, Ireland. Lord Dufferin was appointed GovernorGeneral of Canada 1872-1878; and they travelled
to British

Columbia

in

1876.

Katherine Jane (died 1864)

13,96

43

Samuel
Canada

Denny, William (1804-1886)

Ellice,

774-1 841

875-1 929)

203, 204
The son of Alfred Boultbee, Toronto lawyer and

1820-after 1886)

(ca.

1849, he commenced a 5,000-mile trip in United


and Canada. His multi-media show-panoramic pictures, song, and poetry-was performed
In

States

for

Queen

Victoria at

Buckingham Palace.

Maurice (1842-1928)

Caviller,

140
Caviller immigrated as a child to

Bond Head,

Canada West, 1844, and attended the University


and McGill University. He followed the
professions of civil engineer and land surveyor,
and was president of the Association of Ontario
Land Surveyors, 1895.
of Toronto

Hale, Elizabeth Francis (1774-1 826)

130-31
Elizabeth married lohn Hale in 1798 in London,

England. He soon became an influential member


of the provincial Legislature and Executive Councils of Lower Canada. The Hales had 12 children.
Hall,

Commissioned

69, 88-89
Davies attended Royal Military Academy. Woolwich, 1755-56; and was commissioned in the
Royal Artillery. He served in North America:
1757-62, 1764-66, 1776-78. and 1786-90. A line
but unusual water-colourist, he published views

to

Washington

in

798-1 878)

136

Bainbrigge attended the Royal Military Academy,


Wmlwich, from 1830 to 1833. Commissioned in
the Royal Engineers, he served in Canada during
the years 1836-42, and travelled from the Maritimes

Friend,

Ottawa

visited the Dufferins at

gentleman

148
Cockburn, James Pattison( 1778-1 847)
11,52, 54-55, 61 62, 63, 64-65, 72, 74, 83,

Back joined the Royal Navy as a first class volunteer in 1808. Most of his active career was spent
in Arctic exploration. He was a member of Sir lohn
Franklin's first (1819-22) and second (1825-261
overland expeditions to the shores of the Polar Sea.
He led an overland expedition down what became
known as the Back River in 1833-35 and a traditional but abortive sea voyage into the Arctic as

155,156, 158

120

58,77

137,138,164, 165, 166

12, 83, 87, 94,95, 113, 114, 134, 139, 145,

in the 43rd Regiment of Foot, he


served in British North America at Montreal and
Niagara 1837-39 and as Queen's Boundary Commissioner in the Maritimes 1843-1846. He was
stricken by cholera in the Crimea in 1855.

Mr. Ford

Mary

Chaplin, Milllcent

Back, George (1796-1878)

Terror (1836-371.

149,150
Commissioned

Cockburn attended the Royal Military Academy,


Woolwich, 1793-95, and was commissioned in the
Royal Artillery. He served in British North America
from 1822 to 1832 His works were published
widely, including important aquatint views of Quebec and Niagara Falls, and a guide book to Quebec,
Quetjec and Its Environs (1831) He was a prolific

Bainbrigge, Philip )ohn (181 7-1 881

Estcourt, James Bucknall Bucknall


(1802-1855)

Born Katherine lane Balfour, she married Edward


whose family owned the Beauharnois seigniory, in 1834. In 1838, she accompanied her
husband to Lower Canada when he was appointed
secretary to Lord Durham. She was a celebrated

Sydney

0, 28, 33,

Prior

90,

(1

91

842-1 922
206-07, 208, 209, 2 1 0,
,

211,212-13,214,215,216
Hall was a "special artist" for the London Graphic
He accompanied the Marquis of Lome

magazine.

and Princess Louise to Canada in 1878, and was


commissioned by Lome to accompany him on a
trip to Western Canada in 1881. His works were
exhibited in the Royal Academy.
Hamilton, John (active

753, died

777)

30
Commissioned

in

Hamilton served

40th Regiment of Foot.


North America in the
and at Montreal in 1760

the

in British

Maritimes. 1753-59.
during the Seven Years' War.

George (1766-1844)
39,53,56-57,78-79,146

Heriot,

in Scotland, Henot attended the Royal


Academy, Woolwich, and served in the

Educated
Military

British Army paymaster's department at Quebec


from 1791. He was appointed Deputy Post-Master
General of British North America 1800-16. Travels
Through the Canadas was published in 1807.

Hind, William George Richardson

(1833-1889)
15, 175, 186,

187

Hind immigrated

to

Canada about 1852, where he

ioined his brother Henry Youle Hind. He taught at


the Toronto Normal School in 1856, made illustrations for Explorations in the Interior of Labrador
Peninsula (H. Y. Hind, 1861), and joined the Overlanders of '62 to the Cariboo.

Ellice,

beauty

in

her time.

Estcourt, Caroline Bucknall

(1809?-1886)

151
Daughter of flight Honorable Reginald Pole-Carew,
she married lames B. B. Estcourt in 1837 and
accompanied him to Canada.

221

Hood, Robert (1796-1 821)


162
A member ol Franklin's first overland expedition to
the Polar Sea, Hood was murdered on the Barrens
by the guide.

Hope, The Honourable James (1807-1 854)


68,91,92
Commissioned in the Coldstream Guards. Hope
was active

in British

North America

in

1838-42.

and commanded volunteer forces during the Rebellion of I83B in Lower Canada.
Hunter, lames (active

776-1 799)

in the

Royal

ing Expedition to the Red River.


of William Armstrong.

Artillery in

1761

at the

direction of General Frederick Haldimand, Hunter


served in British North America at Quebec as

draughtsman 1776-1781.

a colleague

O'Brien, Lucius Richard, R.C.A., (1832-1900)

Levinge, Richard George Augustus


(1811-1884)
44-45, 93
Commissioned in the 43rd Regiment of

He was

E.

Picturesque Canada, and first


presidentof the Royal Canadian Academy, 1880-90.
foot,

art editor for

he

in British North America in the Maritimes


and Upper and Lower Canada 1835-40. He retired

served

1843. Echoes from the Back-

woods was published in 1846.

Panter-Downes, Edward D.
192

(active 1857-1

859)

A hydrographic surveyor in the Royal Navy, PanterDownes served on H.M.S. Tribune stationed at
Vancouver Island

in

1859

McKie, MaryR. (active 1840-1862)


41
Mary McKie was an amateur artist in Halifax. Her
works wereexhibited in the International Exhibition
of 1862 and the Nova Scotia Industrial Exhibition
in 1854.

Mercer, Alexander Cavalie


36, 37,

783-1 868)

(1

46

After attending the Royal

Military

Academy

at

Woolwich. Mercer was commissioned in the Royal


1799 and served in British North America
in Upper and Lower Canada 1823-29, and in the
Maritimes 1837-42. His lournal of the Waterloo
Campaign was published in 1670.
Artillery

Meres, )ames S. (active 1 786-1 835)


8, 18-19, 20-21, 22-23, 24, 25, 34-35
Meres served as a member of the crew of H.M.5.
Pegasus in 1786 under the
William Henry (William IVl

in

of Prince

North American

He

kept the Logbook of H.M.S. Pegasus


illustrated it, sometimes signing the views and

waters.

and

command

the charts.

Mitchell,

Thomas

(1

833?-l 925)

168
was appointed an Assistant Paymaster in
Navy in 1864 and served in 1875-76with
Commander C S. Nares on the British Expedition
to the Arctic which reached slightly north of Ellesmere Island. Mitchell acted as a photographer and
Mitchell

the Royal

water-colourist for the expedition.

1846)

Moody

CommfssJoned in the Royal


served in Canada in 1846 at Fort Carry with the 6th
Regiment. He is also said to have worked on the
Engineers,

Cariboo Road

in British

Columbia.

Napier, William Henry Edward

850-after

and landscape waterillustrator


Pedder travelled to Canada after 1887
and crossed the country on the newly completed
Canadian Pacific Railway. His works were exhib-

An

(1

829-1 894)

English

colourist,

ited /n the Royal

Academy.

Randall, Charles (active

1858.

Owen

Stanley,

(181 1-1850)

167
Stanley attended Royal Naval College, Portsmouth,
1824, and served with Sir George Back on H.M.S.
tions of the Pacific.

duty

He was

776-1 780)

on

active

5on of eminent Staffordshire antiquarian William


Stretton, Sempronious was commissioned in the
40th Regiment of Foot, and served in British North
America 1803-06.
Severus William Lynam
(1793-1884)
Stretton,

49
Son of William

Stretton,

eminent Staffordshire

was commissioned in the


69th Regiment of Foot, and served in British North
Severus

antiquarian,

America

in

1818.

1797-1821)

Toler, lohn G. (active

40
A draughtsman
Nova

in the

Ordnance office at Halifax,


maps and plans of

Scotia, Toler executed

Warre, Henry lames (1 81 9-1 898)


84-85,86, 152, 153, 154, 171, 172,173,
174, 175, 176-77, 178, 179
Commissioned in the 14th Buckinghamshire Regiment, Warre served in British North America

Commander

ADC.
in

to his uncle Sir R. D. lackson.


Chief of the Forces. He travelled to
Columbia In 1845-46.

32-33
Randall was captain of ship Peggy on the Quebec
-Halifax run, and was connected with the Royal
Navy during the American Revolution.

Webber, |ohn, R.A.

Rindisbacher, Peter (1806-1834)


V, 162, 169, 170, 188, 189
Rindisbacher, who immigrated to the Red River
Colony from Switzerland in 1821 as a youth, was
an accomplished water-colourist. By 1826 he had
moved south with his family into Illinois. His works
at the

surveyed por-

Stretton, Sempronious (1781-1842)


66-67,132-33

Oregon and

were becoming well known

He

in Australia

when he died.

1842-46 as
1

British

(1

752-1 793)

160, 161
Webber,

a Swiss-born arlyst, practised in

England

and became noted for his topographical work


after accompanying Captain lames Cook on his
third and last voyage to the Pacific. He executed
views of the Pacific North-West Coast of
America in 1778. His works were exhibited in
Royal Academy.

the

time of his death

Whitefield, Edwin (1816-1892)

in Missouri.

(ca.

1796-18471

Roebuck attended the Royal Military Academy,


Woolwich, and immigrated with his family to
Augusta, Upper Canada in 1815. He remained in
Canada after the family returned to England, and
later married Susan Wallace Ogden. He was attached to Lord Dalhousie's service at Quebec.
Roper, Edward (1857-1891)

14,200,202,217
Roper, an English author and artist, travelled to
Canada, 1883 and 1887, and crossed Canada on
the Canadian Pacific Railway. By Track and Trail

(1891) was an account of his Canadian travels.

123, 124-25
Whitefield immigrated to the United States in 1840
to become an itinerant topographical artist. He
visited Canada in 1854. He was famous for his
carefully detailed lithographic views of American

and Canadian

Whymper,

cities.

Frederick (active

863-1 883)

198
An illustrator and author and member of an artistic
family, Whymper travelled widely in North America.

He

published an illustrated book on Alaska

and contributed to the

Illustrated

London News.

Williams, C. (active 1860)

42,119
Sandy,

E.

No

Commissioned

relate to

in

the

Royal

Artillery,

Williams

Prince of Wales during


his visit to Canada, 1860. Some of his drawings
were published in the Illustrated London News.

may have accompanied the

biographical data available. All his drawings


the Vancouver Island-British

Columbia

area.

civil engineer, trained by Walter Shanly, Montreal,

Napier worked on the Grand Trunk Railway and


the Inter-Colonial Railway.

He retired in

renovations to the Citadel.

909)

196-97

141, 181, 183

218,219

16,99

6orn Susanna Strickland, she accompanied her


husband I.W.D. Moodie to the backwoods of
Upper Canada in 1832. Her sister was Catherine
Parr Traill and her daughter, Agnes D. Chamberlin.
The family played a significant role in the cultural
life of nineteenth century Canada. She published,
among other works. Roughing it m the Bush 11852)
and Lite in the Clearings Versus the Bush 11853).
(active

pointed Deputy-Surveyor General of the Province


of Canada in 1784, and commissioned in the 60th
Regiment (Royal Americans) in 1787. His works
were exhibited in the Royal Academy, 1 787.

Roebuck, William

Moodie, Susanna (1803-1885)


122

Moody, Hampden
139,180

Peachey, James (active 1 774-1 797)


111,70-71,75,79, 102, 109
Peachey was a draughtsman in Samuel Holland's survey office in Boston, 1774, and in Sammuel Holland's office in Quebec He was ap-

Redder, |ohn

Seton served in British North America at Quebec


and Montreal 1844-48 and at Kingston and Fort
Carry 1856-58 with the Royal Canadian Rifles.

Terror in the Arctic, 1836-37.

C. O'Brien, founder of Shanty


Bay, Ontario, Lucius Richard attended Upper Canada College, Toronto. He became an artist after
some trial periods as civil engineer and storekeeper.

100-01

in

He was

(1 801 -1 868)
110-111
O'Brien was commissioned in the Royal Artillery
and served in British North America, 1823-29.

201
Son of Colonel

S.,H.

from active service

QBrien, Henry Higgins Donatus

50-51,90
Commissioned

INDEX OF ARTISTS

He accompanied

Hind on the 1857 Canadian Government

H.Y.

Explor-

Seton,
vi,

George (181 9-1 905)

Commissioned

Anonymous
26-27, 59, 71

115, 182
in

the

93rd Regiment of Foot,

222

139,157,199

73, 76, 80-81

1 1

8,

28-29,

INDEX

Wherever possible, places are


ferred to by their modern names.
Italic

numerals

reference

on

indicate

that

to the illustration

is

re-

the

found

that page.

Cornwall Canal, 101


Cowelil2 River, Oregon
178
Coz2ens, F.S., 36

Crown Point, New

Indians,

Department of, 218


Alexander, I. E, 29,40, 114
Agriculture,

Amherstburg^ Ontario, 12
Annapolis Royal (Port Royal), Nova

31,3)
162-68

Davies, Thomas, 11,47


Dawson Road, 142. 142-43

120, 159, 193,

Ballantyne, R.M., 141, 169, 170


Barrie, Ontario, 136, /36

Saskatchewan, 79/
BayofQuinte, Lake Ontario, 131
Beauharnois, Quebec, 13, 13, 96
Bermuda, 24, 35
Bigsby.J.l., 138
Bishop, I.L., 36
Bland, lames Fox, 29
Battleford,

Bonnycastle,

H. 40, 78, 95, 103,


108, 109, 111, 112, 114, 116,
117, 121, 122, 134, 137, 138,
R.

147
Bolhwell, Ontario. /57
Bouchette, )., 23, 31, 32, 33, 35, 36,

39,43,47,55

Bow

River, Alberta,

;76-77,214

Brandon, Manitoba, 218,218


Brantford, Ontario, 152, /52
British Columbia, 1 59, 1 74, 1 92-202,

205
Brock, General, monument to, 147
Brockville, Ontario, 97, 106, 106-07

Brooke, Francis, 53, 65, 69, 75, 86


Butler, W.F., 148, 171-72, 173, 175,
181, 184-85,190-91,216
Bytown, see Ottawa
Calgary, Alberta, 214, 214,

2(9

Calgary Hera/d, 219


Calgary Tribune, 219

Canadian
Canadian

Illustrated

News, 1 04

Pacific Railway, 11, 157,

210
Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, 23, 32
Cape Diamond, Quebec, 49, 54
Carberry, Manitoba, 217,217
Cariboo, 159, 186
Carleton House (H.B.C. post), 172
Cascade Rapids, St. Lawrence River,
St.

Lewis (Chateau

St.

LouisI,

Quebec, 56, 59
Cataraqui, see Kingston

Chambly

(fort),

Quebec, 47, 87, 87

Chaplin, Millicent Mary,

Chappell, E, 17 22, 24-25


Charlottelown, P.E.I 32-33.32-33
,

Chateau Richer, Quebec, 72, 72


Chatham, Ontario, 154-55, /55-56
Chaudiere Falls (Chaudiere River)
Quebec, 69, 69, 117, 1/7
Cheadle, W.B., see Milton, Viscount
Cobourg, Ontario, 97, 128, 128-129
Cockburn, lames Pattison, 11-12, 47,
49, 73, 74
Coke, E.T., 35, 38, 81, 1 15, 132-33,
145, 150

Columbia
159

Kashabowie

River,

Oregon

Territory,

Cook,)., 160, 161

Cornwall, Ontario, 97, 100-01

3,

47,

38

Station, 142

Kingston, Ontario,

208
Cumberland

Knee Lake,

Cumberland, Nova Scotia, 29,


30,30-31
Fort Ellice (H.B.C. post), 171, 190
Fort Franklin, 164, 164
Fort

85. 186

George, Ontario, 145


Fort Henry, Ontario, 1 1
Fort

Fort Mississauga, Ontario, 145, 145

Townshend, Newfoundland, 25
Fort Vancouver, 173, 178
Fort Victoria, Vancouver Island, J 73

Fort

Ontario,

Fort William, Ontario, 97, 138, 141,

Landmann,

Ml
59,

New

Fredericton,

29,

Grant, G.M., 142,

144,

215
Cros Isle,

St.

180,

River, 48,

Hale, Elizabeth Francis,


Haliburton, T.C., 36

Nova

48

97

Scotia, 24, 29, 34-38,

35-37,40,41, 182
Halifax, Evening Express, 38-39
Hall, B., Ill, 113, 158
Hall, Sydney Prior, 10-11, 17,205
Hamilton, John, 29
Hardy, C, 41
Haro Strait, 202
Hawkins, A., 49, 56-57, 58, 59, 60,

150,

Madawaska, New Brunswick, 93-94


Manitoba, 140,205,208
Manitoba Rebellion, 215
Marmora, Ontario, 122, 122
Mars Hill, New Brunswick, 43, 43
McGregor, |., 21, 35, 41, 43, 46,
66-67
Mackenzie (M'Kenzie's)
Mercer, AC, 29
Meres, James S., 1 7, 29

River,

70

1/8,119
Parliament House, Quebec, 58

WE. 162
Peachey, James, 1 1 47, 97
Penetanguishene (Penetangueshene),
Ontario, 138, 139
Parry,

97

Perth, Ontario,

Peterborough,

Ontario,
123-25. 124,125
Petrolia, Ontario, 157

Newfoundland,

Abraham, 49

Plains of

Point Henry, Ontario,


Point Levis,

10-/

173,198,200
Montmorency,
Quebec,

69-71,

59

Morgan, H.J., 119


Mosquito Creek, Yukon, 203
Mount Baker (U.S.A.), 202, 202
Mount Coffin, 1 78

Nanaimo,

British

Columbia, 192,

/92
Napier, W.H.E., 97, 159

Portage La Prairie, Manitoba, 210

219
Hope, Ontario, 97
Port Royal, see Annapolis Royal
Port

Edward

32-33,

29,

Island,

32-33
Puget Sound, 202

Quebec

City,

Quebec,

//,

12,47-74,

49-69, 9 /-92, 182

Queen Charlotte

195
146-47,

Islands, 195,

Queenston, Ontario,
147, 149

146,

River, v,

142, 162, 174,

Rideau Canal, 97 113-16, 1/3-/6,


132
Rindisbacher, Peter, 159
Rocky Mountains, 177, 201, 216,

2/6
Roper,

E.,

125,200, 217

Rose, G., 118


Rupert's Land,

v;,

97, 159, 166, 18/

Sackett's Harbour,

10,

223

Ann, (St. Anne's), Quebec, 72-74,


73-74
Saint Anioine, Quebec, 78
Boniface, Manitoba, 159, 183,
St.

209
29, 43-46, 43-45

174,

180-85, 180
Red Rock, Ontario, 144

Nares, C.S., 168

New Brunswick,

42

/, 1 1

Quebec, 49, 58

St.

159, 162, 169-73, ;69-72, 184,


188-89, 190

8, 17, 18-

23, 18-23

Richelieu River, 47, 87-90, 88-90

Hood, Robert, 159, 163

Hudson Bay, 142, 162, 169, 170


Hudson's Bay Company, 141, 144,

122,

97,

Middlesex, Ontario, 157


Milton, Viscount and W.B. Cheadle,

Moody, Hampden,

T.S.,

57
Parliament Buildings, Ottawa, 118,

Red

Montreal, Quebec, 47, 75-86, 78-86

Hunt,

16-20

Rainy River, Ontario, 142

Heriot, G., 47, 49, 52, 71, 72, 75,

Hind, H.Y., 42
Hind, William G.R., 15, 159

74-79

Metlakatia (Metlacatlah), Bntish


Columbia, 193, 194, 793-94, 195
Metis, 174, 183, 184-85

70-71

131, 146,148

73,

Prescott, Ontario, 103, 105

63,68
Hayman, R., 19
76, 77, 78, 81, 87, 98, 99, 102,

Olonabee River, 125


Ottawa (Bytown), Ontario, 97, 115-

Prince

186,

Lawrence

149,

Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, 42

188-89,
192, 196, 199, 201, 202, 205,
177,

174,

70,

Port Arthur, Ontario,

102

Lundy's Lane, Ontario,


150-5/

157, 159,

15

R.,

140, 157, 182,207

59,

Point Frederick, Ontario, 110-11

97

205,209,209,210,211,211
Loyalists, 29, 97,

Placenlia,

London, Ontario, 154, 154


Lome, Marquis of, 10, 10, 17, 159,

Gananoque, Ontario, 108, 108


Georgian Bay, 137
Goldie,)., 126
Grand Banks, 17
Grand River, Ontario, 158, 158

P.,

Oregon,

Palace of the Inlendant, Quebec, 56,

G.T., 71

Lindsay, Ontario,

O'Brien, Lucius

O'Leary,

Scotia, 42, 42
Overlandersof'62, 15, 186-87, 186

63

Lawrence, Charles, 31
Levinge,R.C.A., 45,47, 91-94, 149

164-65

73
Brunswick,
45-46, 46, 92-93

Fraser River,

Lachine Rapids, 98
Ladue, )., 203, 204
Lake Champlain, 87, 89, 90
Lake Huron, 97, 138
Lake Kashabowie, 142
Lake of the Woods, 1 38, 1 42
Lake Ontario, 146
Lake St. Ann, 187, 187
Lake Simcoe, 132, 136, 137, 138,
138
Lake Superior, 141
Lambert, J., 50, 60, 69, 83

Fort Garry, 159, 182, 182, 183, 184-

Franklin, Sir John, 159, 163,

(H.B.C. post), 170,

Ottawa River, 1 1
The Ovens, Nova

Labrador, 22, 25
Lac deMille Lacs, 142

Fort Frontenac, see Kingston

Prescott,

Norway House

20,

101, 117,147, 150


Klondike City, Yukon, 203

Fort Calgary, see Calgary

Wellington,
104, 105

144-150, 145, /48-49, 154


Nipigon Bay, 144
North-West Company, 141, 164

iir,

Kingston Chronicle and Gazette, 1 04


Kingston, W.H.G., 62-63, 84-85,

Fitzgibbon, M., 124, 140,

Fort

7-29

Nova Scotia,

97, 98, 102,


109-12, ;09-;2, 115, ;26, 131

1 1

Fort Beausejour, see Fort

Westminster, British Columbia,


200, 200
New York Stale, 89, 90, 1 09, 1 1
Niagara, Ontario, 12, 97, 110, 131,

39

96

138,149
Fergusson; A.,

Newfoundland,

New

170
Noltawasaga Bay, Lake Huron, 1 38,
139
Nova Scotia, 25, 29, 31-32, 34-2

98

King's College, Windsor,

Emerson, Manitoba, 209


Enniskillen, Ontario, 157

Halifax,

99
Castle of

70

Kaministiquia, Ontario,

214

Ellice,

Back, George, 97, 1 59, 1 67


Bainbrlgge, P.)., 11-12,47,97

1,

of,

195,207

Ellesmere Island, 168


Katherine, )ane,

Assiniboia,

Kaminisliquia River,
River,

40-4

lameson. A., 131


Johnstown, Province of Canada, 74,
97, 102

Drummondville, Ontario, 149


Dufferin and Ava, Marchioness

Elbow

Armstrong, William, 13

1 ,

65, 166. 171-72, 181, 188-90,


188-90, 193-94,215

Scotia, 29,
Arctic, 97,

40-4

York, 47, 88-89, 89


lack River,

Acadians, 29, 30-33

JO, 29, 32,

vi,

75, 87, 102, 159, 160, 160, 164-

Territory,

51

St.

Charles,

Quebec, 91-92

St.

Charles River, 49, 49, 56, 60, 64-

Saratoga, Springs

65

Seton, George, 159

92, 94

St.

Denis, Quebec, 47, 91

St.

Euslache, Quebec, 47, 95, 95

Si.

lean,

St.

lohn, Manitoba, 194

St.

John,

St.

lohn. Island of, see Prince

St.

Brunswick, 46

Edward

Sorel,

Marquis de, 87

Sorel,

Quebec, 87

Southesk,

Newfoundland, 1 7, 22,
24-28, 24-27
Lawrence River, 23, 25, 47, 49,
65,78,84-85,97,101, 110
lohn's,

St.

Maurice

St.

Pierre

River,

Traill,

17 77
,

and Miquelon, 22, 23, 25

Sandby, Paul, 11
San luan Island (U. S.A.I, 202, 202

Earl

of,

Thames

180,

Henry Fox,

Trois Rivieres,

183,

54

Vancouver

Three Rivers, seeTrois Rivieres

ON
set

75

Mono

Island, 173,

BOOK

Lino Typesetting Co.

for lithography

printed by

(96-97,202
Columbia, 1 73

Webber, lohn, 159, 160


Weld, I., 52, 54, 65, 78, 80, 89, 90,
110,112, 131, 146,154
Weston, Ontario, \3S
Whitefield, Edwin, 97
White Horse Plains, 174, (74, 183
Windsor, Nova Scotia, 39
Winnipeg, Manitoba, 181, 208, 209,
209,210
Winslow, lohn, 29, 30
Woodstock, Ontario, )53

Yale,

British

Columbia,

(98-99

THE MAKI.NC OF THIS

by

book was prepared

Sampson Matthews

book was planned and designed by

224

Ltd.,

by Herzig Sommervitte
Ltd.,

and bound by T.H- Best Printing Company


the

75.

Warburlon, G.D., 26
Warre, H.J., 97, 159, 176-77, 178
179, (79

Toronto, Ontario, 97, 726, )30-34,


132, 134, 138, 146, 154

was

Quebec,

Victoria, British

Thunder Cape, Lake Superior, )A0


Ticonderoga, 47

the

103, 123,

Trout River, 163


Trow,]., 140

River (La Trenche),

type

13, 48, 97,

Trenton, Ontario, 97, \2\


174,

196,212,213
Talbot, William

C.P.,

127, 137, 156


Trent River System, 121-25, ^2\

152, 153, 155

Island
St.

MO

97, 181, IST

Smith, W.H., 106, 122, 128-29, 136,

Quebec, 87, 90

New

Falls,

Toronto C/obe, 135,209,214


Toronto, Grey and Bruce Railway,
135, 135
Toronto Portage, 1 36-39

Ill

of.

Silver Islet, Ontario, 140,

Slave

INDEX

Frani<

Ltd.,

Newfeld

Ltd.,

York, see Toronto

York Factory, 169, (69


Yukon, 203-04, 20A

196,

198,

^lp|
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