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12 International Herald Tribune
Thursday, June 30, 2005 MEN’S FASHION

David Aguilera/Splash; Eagle/; Riccardo S. Savi/; Splash
From left: A bearded Ben Aff leck; Chris Martin and Gwyneth Paltrow on stroll with their child, Apple; Kate Hudson and Chris Robinson; Britney Spears and Kevin Federline; Paris Latsis, fiancé of Paris Hilton.

Slobs in Hollywood: What do actresses see in their scruffy men?
By Jessica Michault watch didn’t give them away. ing like he is wearing clothes he slept in ity is a backlash to the metrosexual with singer, actress and fashion design- make over the men into something the
The obvious example of this frog to a red carpet Hollywood premiere. phenomenon. er Jennifer Lopez. Whatever ones opin- women wouldn’t reject outright because
PARIS mentality is Mr. Britney Spears, Kevin Although no one is asking for the re- ‘‘Men want to take care of them- ion about the multi-hyphenated Lopez, of appearance. The television show is
ollywood loves nothing more Federline, whose arrival in the city of turn of the golden age of Hollywood, selves but they don’t want to look like one thing is sure: Ben Affleck never produced by the once grubby Ashton

H than a good old-fashioned
fairy tale. Recently a number
of up-and-coming actresses
have taken this notion to heart by try-
ing to bring to life an age-old fable. Us-
angels set the stage for this latest Holly-
wood trend. Granted, Spears was never
a leading lady in film or fashion. But
even classic beauties with fashion
know-how like Gwyneth Paltrow, Jen-
there is something to be said for look-
ing the part. Image is everything in
Hollywood and the illusion of glamour
and class of celebrities is always part of
the attraction when a fan forks over
they have had anything done,’’ Lopez
says. ‘‘Hollywood is a small world that
is all about how you look and these
men are not wanting to look affected
and in need of that Hollywood approv-
looked better.
The one celebrity exception to this
fashion rule has been the rocker/model
combination. In those cases it has only
worked to the advantage of the rocker’s
Kutcher — before Demi Moore got her
hands on him — could be taking some
of the shows inspiration from the Holly-
wood slob trend.
But maybe this disheveled look hides
ing ‘‘The Princess and the Frog’’ as a nifer Garner, and Kate Hudson are all hard-earned cash for a movie ticket or al of ‘he looks good.’ ’’ image that, even with their scruffy ap- some deeper issues. ‘‘After looking per-
guide, some of the most beautiful and being squired about town by men (Chris CD. Casual dressing does not preclude But when our favorite leading ladies pearance, they were able to snag the su- fect for a movie role, I am sure that for
stylish women in Hollywood have Martin, Ben Affleck, and Chris Robin- looking good (think Jake Gyllenhall, allow themselves to be seen with permodel (think Jack White and Karen some it is a way of connecting back
taken to kissing frogs and hoping that son respectively) who wouldn’t make Usher). And in the age of the metro- disheveled boyfriends or husbands, Elson or even better Kate Moss and with normalcy,’’ notes Sarah Lopez.
they will turn into princes. the dress code if they showed up alone. sexual male, there is no longer a need they tarnish their own image to a cer- Pete Doherty). And there is no harm And if the old adage ‘‘true love is blind’’
No luck so far. With the availability of round-the- for men to look rough and unkempt as a tain extent in the eyes of the public. ‘‘No done to the supermodels image be- is correct, then maybe by embracing
Call it invasion of the slobs. The once clock stylists and unlimited incomes, way of proclaiming to the world their self-respecting woman would be seen cause their jobs don’t hinge on a public their man’s inner slob, Hollywood’s
glamorous Hollywood of Cary Grant there would seem to be no excuse for masculi n ity. out with a guy looking like that’’ has no persona and no one is asking them to leading ladies are making there own
and Steve McQueen has been taken over such slovenly behavior. But a billion-dol- For Sarah Lopez, top aesthetician at doubt crossed the minds of many a fan. be more that just a pretty face. statement to the world — I am in love.
by greasy-haired, scruffy-bearded, lar inheritance doesn’t keep Paris Latsis, the hot Beverly Hills salon Kalologie, Case in point— Jennifer Garner and Even the latest reality show ‘‘Beauty
baggy-pants-wearing men who could be Greek shipping heir and fiancé to mil- who counts Jack Black as one of her Ben Affleck. Before this latest version and the Geek’’ teams up ugly guys and Jessica Michault is on the staff of the
mistaken for vagrants if their $30,000 lionaire heiress Paris Hilton, from look- celebrity clients, the new slob mental- of Bennifer, Affleck famously went out beautiful ingénues in an attempt to International Herald Tribune.

Sport plays well in Milan

Shawn Collins; Christopher Moore/Andrew Thomas
Sportswear features are cropping up in a range of offerings. Above, Shawn Collins. Below, clockwise: DSquared, John Galliano, Junya Watanabe and Roberto Menichetti.

A new generation takes to skateboard chic
By Karl Treacy shearling boots.
In Milan, Roberto Menichetti opened
PARIS his fall show with a model on a skate-
y collection is about real- board. That and the skateboards that ap-

‘M ity, and so elements of
sportswear are indis-
For designer Kris Van Assche, it
made perfect sense for his debut collec-
peared throughout the show strapped
around narrow suits are part of a collab-
oration with Forever Skate, a fledgling
company set up by five American
youngsters whom Menichetti, an avid
tion in Paris last January to show tail- skateboarder, became friendly with.
Continued from Page 11 oring with sportswear proportions and Menichetti’s other passions, surfing
detailing. With its mix of scalpel-cut and motorcycle racing, were high-
Menichetti had a complex theory jackets and baggy pants in fine fabrics, lighted in baggy pants with contrasting
about his various different lines, us- multi-pocketed vests and hoodies in- seams, slim jackets with two-way zip-
ing a pyramid to explain that from spired by overalls, and jaunty fedoras pers and racing stripes.
the basics at the wide lower end to setting off chunky white sneakers be- ‘‘I really try to understand what’s
the apex of high fashion there are low, Van Assche’s collection adapted new, what the new generation wants,’’
many crosscurrents and connec- grown-up clothes to the needs of a gen- the designer said. ‘‘In design, you never
tions. In his display of models on a eration taking its style tips from Jay-Z go back. And this is how people dress,
scaffolding grid, the message that rather than Gatsby. between formal and casual. It’s the free-
came across most strongly was of ‘‘Conceiving a new collection, it is dom to choose. The future of men’s fash-
sportswear, from a seersucker shirt impossible for me to totally ignore ion will be a perfect mix of these two.’’
worn with leather pants through a what men are already wearing,’’ he Important in this future will be the
striped blazer, unlined and super- said. ‘‘Men do not want to feel fabric technology that can already cre-
light. Active sports effects included repressed in their clothes. I believe this ate imperceptibly waterproofed noble
windsurfer shorts with a tailored explains the success of sportswear. fabrics as well as synthetic mixes that
cotton shirt and a torso-hugging top What I try to do is combine both — tra- allow the end results to ‘‘keep their aes-
in a Teflon/cotton surfing fabric, dition and comfort." thetic look,’’ Menichetti says. Interest-
shown with wide and easy pants. Though men’s fashion for autumn ingly, Van Assche says, ‘‘I don’t like the
The poetic film called ‘‘The First has trumpeted the return of tailoring feel of sportswear fabrics.’’
Sun’’ that Silvia Venturini Fendi com- and its dandified codes, a more cred- In New York, Bergdorf Goodman’s
missioned from director Luca ible trend has been the injection of men’s store has over the past four years
Guadagnino, a video award winner sportswear into the frame. As men are placed an increasing emphasis on this
at the Venice Biennale, gets to the increasingly likely to buy an expensive fusion fashion, the melding of tradi-
heart of the problem of how best to jacket and wear it with a T-shirt, jeans tionally separate retail sectors with
show menswear. and sneakers, instead of buying an en- mixed-merchandise showcase areas.
‘‘We shot it where I learned to tire suit, many designers have come to For Robert Burke, Bergdorf Good-
swim as a child,’’ said Venturini reflect this reality of modern dressing man’s fashion director, it’s a no-brain-
Fendi of the seaside resort where the in their work. er. ‘‘We believe in it because I believe
youthful band hung out, wearing the A LESSANDRO For some, like Junya Watanabe, this that’s how men are buying and dress-
rope-patterned swim shorts and can- ethos has become a signature. For au- ing today,’’ he said, citing names like
vas wave-patterned shoes, as well as
DELL’ACQUA tumn the Japanese designer brought the DSquared2 and Etro as early pioneers
the narrow summer suits that were Photos by Christopher Moore/Andrew Thomas ski slopes to the city with his clever re- of the trend, with the store enjoying
part of the sailing and ocean theme working of Alpine sports gear in pin- ‘‘incredible success at a luxury level’’
of the collection. Its star is Massimo runway show would probably not stripes and the sexing up of Fair Isle with the chic Italian cashmere and
Mezzavilla, who was in last season’s have shown most of these carefully knits and anoraks. Similarly, sportswear of Brunello Cuccinelli.
movie inspired by the artist Caravag- thought-out details — and it cer- Watanabe’s mentor Rei Kawakubo at ‘‘American men are starting to break
gio. tainly could not have expressed a Comme des Garçons cut suits in sport out of their traditional uniform — a
The designer said that she ‘‘wanted moody adolescent moment. techno fabrics, lining pants with Airtex. suit during the week, pleat-front khakis dressed place in the world,’’ he says. fasteners and a more grown-up cut, and
to communicate fashion through But between the splashes of show- Dolce & Gabbana alluded to the and button-down shirt at the week- But its spirit is what has driven his first simple sweaters in cashmere are en-
emotions’’ and the movie had a per- manship and the catwalk shows that spare time of their dark-suited lothari- end,’’ Burke says, and the result is a full own-name collection. hanced with graphic appliqués.
fume of Roman holidays, of ‘‘La are not much more than a bunch of os with a preceding passage of sexy ‘‘real emphasis on personal style’’ as the Currently drawing attention with the It is a reverse distillation of the trend
Dolce Vita,’’ of 1960s youth and teen- guys in polo shirts and pants walk- kick-boxing outfits, Michael Kors average man learns more about fash- film ‘‘Lords of Dogtown,’’ the West- simmering in fashion right now. But to
age melancholy. But where were the ing up and down, the Milan slipped padded silver jackets over slick ion. Coast surf-and-skater scene is a big in- Collins it was that old chestnut of cre-
leather goods that have made Fendi’s menswear fashion season (which city wear, Dries Van Noten paired his But over in Los Angeles, Shawn fluence in Collins’s work. But instead ating these clothes because he could
reputation? ends on Thursday) needs to find a clashing checks with motocross pants, Collins is not entirely in agreement. of simply rehashing baggy boardwalk not find anything he wanted to wear
Backstage, Venturini Fendi way of bringing energy to the run- and Raf Simons’s voluminous, sharp- ‘‘Every guy could just dress a bit bet- shapes, Collins has taken the essence that struck the right balance between
showed a leather coat edged with way and the intricacies of fabric and pleat pants were topped off with mold- ter,’’ suggests the 35-year-old designer and reworked casual pieces in Scottish elegant and easy.
rope and leather bags waterproofed construction to the professional ing ski sweaters. Even on his madcap who returned to Los Angeles from Par- wools and cashmeres. ‘‘You can dress it up, you can dress it
for life on the ocean wave, as well as audience. gallop through Napoleonic history, is almost two years ago after over eight Wool jackets in speckled blue or dark down,’’ he said. ‘‘I don’t think clothes
canvas jackets tailored like naval John Galliano acknowledged the years spent cutting his fashion teeth green are lined in Airtex, the same mesh should be too precious.’’
uniforms and all sorts of details from Suzy Menkes is the fashion editor of grungy influence of Kurt Cobain, al- working for names like Galliano and that is used as the side-stripe on tuxedo
anchor buttons to chain prints. A the International Herald Tribune. beit with a snowboarding bent, in over- Stella McCartney. trousers. Board shorts are lengthened Karl Treacy is a freelance journalist
sized pants and open-tongued ‘‘I swear to God, LA is the worst- into pants with Velcro and leather tong based in Paris.