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I$EK NORWAY
HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
DENMARK,
NORWAY,
SWEDEN,
ICELAND.
THIRD EDITION, REVISED AND CORRECTED.
WITH MAPS AND PLANS.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET;.-'
rARIS:GALIGNANI AND CO., AND STASSIN AND XAVIER.
1 858.
f?
305
THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OP MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OP

THE FOLLOWING AGENTS:
GERMANY, HOLLAND, AND BELGIUM,
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PKEFACE.
Nine years having elapsed since the publication of the last edition of
the Handbook for Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, a new one has
become necessary. Few countries probably have undergone so great
a change during this period in the matter of travelling as Scandinavia ;
and Norway, which at that time was almost a terra incognita, is now
in a fair way of becoming as well known as Switzerland. The great
influx of English travellers has created an increased demand for
luxuries and comfort, and prices have risen accordingly. In 1849
eatable food was a rarity even on the trunk roads of Norway, and
travellers, unless provided with their own provisions, were liable to
be inconveniently straitened by hunger. All this is now changed,
and travelling, for gentlemen, is now as easy in Scandinavia as in the
rest of Europe.
Great engineering works have been carried out, hills cut down,
embankments built, and magnificent roads made, where formerly
little better than mere horse-tiacks existed. In Denmark three, in
Norway one, in Sweden two railways have been opened, and the
electric telegraph is now in operation between most of the chief
towns, and the general continental system of Europe. In addition to
this the steam communication has been greatly extended and im
proved, both on the fjords of the coast and on the gieat inland lakes.
This Handbook endeavours to point out rather where lines of steamers
exist, than to give the exact days and hours of their departure, which
are liable to change, not only every year, but every month, as the
dark autumn nights lengthen.
The various changes alluded to have of course necessitated con
siderable alterations in the minor details of the Handbook, but on
the whole the general plan of the former edition, which was most
justly praised for its accuracy and completeness, has been adhered
to.
The leading object of the book is to furnish useful and practical
information derived from personal knowledge acquired in the
a 2
iv
PREFACE.
countries described. Combined with this, in the Introduction to

each Section, a very slight sketch has been given of the nature of
the country, its products, and people, with their history, govern
ment, &c ; in short, such matter as travellers may desire to know,
in the most concise form.
The Routes have been carefully arranged so as to include all the
towns, as well as the most picturesque scenery, and the best salmon
streams and shooting districts. The peculiar, but cheap and con
venient mode of travelling in Norway and Sweden renders it essential
to give the name and distance of every Stage. Upon the most pic
turesque Routes the scenery has been described somewhat in detail,
in order that tourists may know where they may expect to find the
class of subjects most pleasing to them, for the true mode to enjoy
the country (particularly in Norway) is to travel leisurely, stopping
at the most desirable places to explore the surrounding scenery. In
several of the Routes repetitions have been advisedly made for the
convenience of travellers, few of whom have either the leisure or
inclination to peruse those Routes which they do not take. The
Routes are laid down and numbered in an Index Map, as in the
former edition. From the great extent of the Scandinavian territory,
it was found that a Map, upon a sufficient scale to render it complete
and satisfactory, would be too large and too costly for this book ; it
was therefore considered better to give only an Index Map rather
than an imperfect chart of the country, particularly as in Denmark,
Norway, and Sweden the requisite travelling Maps are published at
very reasonable prices.
All pains have been taken to render this edition as complete,
accurate, and concise as possible ; but in a book of this class, written
for countries still imperfectly known, and where trustworthy informa
tion is, in many cases, exceedingly difficult to obtain, great allowances
for errors and omission must be made ; op thebe it is hoped that
FUTURE TRAVELLERS WILL OBLIGINGLY MAKE NOTES, as it is Only by
such means that the perfect accuracy, completeness, and consequent
usefulness of a Handbook can be obtained,
London, July, 1858,
HANDBOOK
FOR
DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN.
GENERAL INTRODUCTION.
1.Scandinavia and its Attractions for Tourists.2. Maxims and
Suggestions.3. Books upon Scandinavia.4. Passports and List of
Ambassadors.5. Money.6. Travelling Servants.7. Carriages.
8. Clothes and Luggage.9. Skeleton Tours.10. Steamers.
1.SCANDINAVIA AND ITS ATTRACTIONS TO TOURISTS.

Denmark Proper (which is exclusive of the Duchies of Sleswig,
Holstein, and Lauenburg), with Norway and Sweden, comprises those
territories which are known as Scandinaviaa somewhat antiquated
name, but which the increasing interest in the Scandinavian race,
and their literature, has of late years revived ; it is also useful for its
comprehensiveness in speaking of the three kingdoms.
While all the countries of central Europe have been overwhelmed
with English travellers, it is curious to find how completely Scandi
navia has been neglected till quite of late years. This is to be
ascribed to a want of knowledge of the attractions it offers, and the
facilities for travelling there ; information as to which it is hoped
this book will in some measure supply.
Prior to the 10th century Scandinavia was the region of romance
of the wildest legends ; but even the earliest periods of her history
are intimately connected with England, and abound in interest. The
conquests and discoveries accomplished by the energy and heroic
bravery of the ancient Scandinavians during the 10th and 11th
centuries were not only most extensive, but have left a permanent
impress upon the character and institutions of great part of central
Europe, and particularly in the British Islands. They made cou
vi
Scandinavia and its ATTRACTIONS.
Introduction.
quests, and established themselves not only in England, Ireland, and

Scotland, as well as Russia and Spain, but also in France, where the
whole province of Normandy was subsequently ceded to them ; and
they even carried their victorious arms to the furthest portions of the
Mediterranean, long prior to the conquests of their Norman descend
ants in Sicily and Lombardy.*
Their discoveries include not only Iceland and Greenland, but
Newfoundland, and a great portion of the continent of North Ame
rica, in the commencement of the 11th century, age9 before Columbus
crossed the Atlantic. A colony was planted there with which com
munications were at times kept up so late as the latter half of the
14th century, from which time it was lost sight of, and nothing more
was heard of America till the discoveries of Columbus were made.
The minute details which exist in the ancient Icelandic sagas
and old Scandinavian historians, appear to leave no room for doubt
as to the first discovery of America having been made by Scandina
vians or their descendants.t
The " Antiquitates Americanse," published at Copenhagen in
Danish, Icelandic, and Latin, and the numerous publications of the
Societe Royale des Antiquaires du Nord, also published at Copenhagen,
throw much light on what is called the ante-Columbian history of
America. It is believed that the Northmen penetrated along the
coast as far to the South as Florida, which they called Hvitramannaland.
The modern history of Scandinavia is likewise replete with interest,
and will be briefly noticed in its proper place.
Till quite lately very erroneous ideas prevailed in England as to
the climate of Sweden and Norway. Snow and ice rapidly disappear,
even in Norway, from the beginning of May, and by the end of that
month the white garb of winter is exchanged for the verdant mantle
of summer, which lasts to the end of August ; and during this time
snow is rarely to be seen, except upon the tops of the highest
mountains.
The best months for travelling areMay, for Denmark ; July and
August, for Sweden ; and July and August, for Norway. In Septem
ber the rains commence, and the weather becomes uncertain, but
Bnow seldom falls, except in the mountains, before the end of Sep
tember. The autumnal tints are very beautiful in the beginning of
September.
* Histoire des Rcpubliques Italiennes, par Sismondi, V. i. C. 4.
t Dunham's History of Denmark, $e., v. ii. p. 23.
Scandinavia.
GENERAL INFORMATION.
vii
The summers are usually much finer and steadier than in England
(except on the W. coast of Norway), and are at times excessively
hot ; but the air is so clear, so invigorating and bracing, that the
heat is never oppressive, except in some of the deep ravines of Norway.
Nowhere is the overwrought mind or body likely to derive greater or
so great benefit from travelling, as in Scandinavia, where the climate
in summer is delicious, the facilities so great, the scenery grand, and
the people so honest and obliging.
It is generally believed that ladies cannot travel in Scandinavia ;
nothing can be more erroneous. Throughout Denmark, Sweden, and
Norway, there are good steamboats constantly running during sum
mer, between all the chief places upon the coasts. All the superior
officers of these steamers speak English. Upon all the principal
roads there are regular stages, at which horses may be obtained,
and station-houses for the accommodation of travellers. At some
of these station-houses the accommodation is tolerable, at many
of them wretched ; but, with a little management, the best places
may be selected for resting at ; and any lady really fond of travelling
will consider the spare diet and other little hardships she may be ex
posed to amply repaid by the climate and scenery.
As regards expense, travelling in Scandinavia is perhaps cheaper
than in any other country in Europe ; this is particularly the case in
Norway and Sweden.
The voyage across the North Sea, or the long weary journey by
land from Ostend to Hamburg, has deterred numbers of travellers
from visiting Scandinavia. Those difficulties are now removed by
the direct communication which, in October, 1847, was completed by
railway, the whole distance between Ostend, via Cologne, Minden,
Hanover, and Hamburg, to Kiel upon the Baltic. In that tideless
sea, during summer, there is rarely much motion ; and the voyages
to and from Norway, at that period, are usually of the most agreeable
description.
The routes by railway from Ostend, Antwerp, and Rotterdam have
been prepared in order to render this Handbook as complete as pos
sible, and to prevent travellers being obliged to take another ; but of
necessity the information contained in them has been much com
pressed, to bring it within the limits which can be spared. The
" Handbook for Northern Germany" contains full descriptions of all
the towns upon those Routes.
The modern Norwegian and Danish languages are the same ; but
in the remote parts of Norway the dialects of each valley differ
viii
Scandinavia AND its attrautions.
Introduction-
considerably from each other, sometimes approaching the old Norse,

or Icelandic. The Swedish differs from the Danish so little, that
those understanding the one can, with a little patience and trouble,
soon make out the other. They differ rather more from each other
than English and Lowland Scotch. In Denmark, German and Eng
lish are extensively spoken amongst the upper classes. In Norway,
English ; and in Sweden, French.
Both the Danish and Swedish languages bear so strong an affinity
to the English, that they are not found difficult to acquire.
To the naturalist, the flora of Scandinavia, and the geology and
mineralogy of Norway and Sweden, abound in interest. The lover of
ancient church architecture will find ample amusement in the nume
rous examples which exist in the island of Gottland, where the
churches are an unexplored mine of interest to the lover of Gothic
architecture. In Norway and the maiuland of Sweden there are
likewise a few antique churches, such as those at Trondhjem, Borgund, Stockholm, Upsala, &c. The lakes and rivers of Norway and
Sweden abound in fish, and comprise some of the finest salmon streams
in Europe. The bear, elk, red and rein deer, with a large variety of
winged game and wild fowl, are also met with in Norway and
Sweden.
The scenery of Denmark is generally too flat ; but its forests of
beech and oak are magnificent, and some of the views on the W.
coast are highly picturesque. The scenery in some parts of the W.
of Norway is sublime, inferior in point of magnitude to Switzerland,
but more picturesque for the pencil, while the gorgeous sunsets and
long twilight give mysterious and poetic effects which are wondrously
beautiful.
With respect to the people, nowhere will the English traveller ex
perience greater attention, civility, and even kindness, than in Scan
dinavia, particularly in Norway.
In point of security from robbery or violence, the traveller in
Scandinavia will be probably much safer than in England ; and there
is no instance upon record of any one being attacked by bears or
wolves in summer, unless these animals have been wounded or their
young taken.
Norway and the N. of Sweden are admirably adapted for pedestrian
expeditions, and in no part of Europe can such splendid scenery be
traversed at so small a cost. The average expenses of a pedestrian
would probably not exceed 2s. 6c?. a day throughout the rural dis
tricts of Sweden and Norway, and about 5s. in the towns.
Scandinavia.
MAXIMS ANVl SUGGESTIONS.
ix
2. MAXIMS AND SUGGESTIONS.

Many people start upon a tour without any determined route,
leaving that to accident or fancy. This is unwise. If the objects
desired to be attained in a journey be well considered, and the route
arranged to embrace them, and that rdute be adhered to in its main
points, much time, trouble, and expense are avoided. The mind is
thus left at rest to gather information and amusement from day to
day, instead of being in a continual bewilderment of inquiry and un
certainty as to future movements ; and friends at home in doubt and
anxiety as to where their letters should be addressed.
Every traveller on leaving home must make up his mind to be im
posed upon to some extent ; at times covertly, at others openly, but
nowhere will he be less exposed to this than in Scandinavia. It is a
mistake to imagine that every one is trying to impose vpon you, and
in Scandinavia, particularly, it is most unjust. That instances of im
position do occur there, is true ; but they are chiefly to be attributed
to the folly of the English, who generally pay whatever is demanded
of them without stopping to consider the propriety of the demand.
"It is not sufficient for a pleasant excursion that the traveller has
money enough to meet his expenses. The comfort which an English
man, who understands the word better than any other, is likely to
enjoy in an excursion in lands where the language, manners, and
customs are so different from his own, will greatly depend on his
carrying with him a ready stock of good temper and forbearance, which
have more certain currency than gold in the purchase of civilities,
and efforts to please. A man will see more, enjoy more, and learn more
by carrying with him his head and his heart in good travelling trim,
than can be obtained by having his pockets full of letters of credit
without this necessary state of mind and feelings. It is a fact deeply
to be regretted that many vulgar and half-witted Englishmen think,
if they leave home with money they can command anything ; that
it is mean to be civil, and beneath them to feel grateful for any efforts
to oblige them made by those for whose services they pay. The pre
sumption of our countrymen is proverbial on the Continent ; fortu
nately, the exceptions are numerous, and we are spoken of as an un
accountable people, when some men of unquestionable character and
fortune display examples of suavity and true gentility which cannot
be surpassed on earth ; the foreigner is thus puzzled to know how to
estimate our national character. It is a vulgar prejudice that all
foreigners cheat the English, and lhat caution is necessary to guard
a a
books upon Scandinavia.
Introduction.
against the constant attempts to overreach them. That some such

characters are met with cannot he denied ; but those whose rapacity
is made thus to characterize a class, have often been created by the
meanness and prejudices, and thoughtless extravagance of the tra
vellers themselves. It is a bad feeling to set out with that you must
be always on your guard. Custom has established certain charges,
and any deviation from them is soon detected ; but it too often hap
pens that things are demanded by the traveller which are very ex
pensive or difficult to procure : the charge for these is protested
against as extravagant, though the injustice is entirely on the side of
the grumbler. Firmness in not paying more than is customary,
unless such extraordinary trouble has been given, will always suc
ceed ; and good humour will lower a bill more readily than violence."
Brockedon.
Think well of all that is likely to be wanted for the journey, and
be prepared with it in good time ; this is particularly requisite as to
clothes and luggage, passport, money, handbooks, and maps, &c.
Leave nothing to the last ; much of the comfort of a journey depends
on starting well.
3. BOOKS TTP0N SCANDINAVIA.
It is always a great advantage and additional pleasure to be ac
quainted with the language of the country we are visiting ; but as
few persons will, perhaps, take the trouble to study Danish or Swedish,
they should at least, as a preparation for visiting Scandinavia, acquaint
themselves with some of the works upon it.
The following is a list of those most likely to be found useful as
well as interesting :
Acerbi. Travels through Sweden, Finland, and Lapland in 1798 and
' 1799. 2 vols. 4to. 1802.
Barrow. Excursions in the North of Europe, through parts of Russia,
Finland, Sweden, Denmark, and Norway. 1 vol. 8vo. 1835.
Barrow. Visit to Iceland by way of Trondhjem.
Beamish. Discovery of America by the Northmen, in the 10th
century. 1 vol. 8vo. 1841.
Bremner. Excursions in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. 2 vols.
8vo. 1840.
Brooke, de Capell. Travels through Sweden, Norway, and Finmark.
to the North Cape. With Plates. 1 vol. 4to. 1823.
Brooke, de Capell. A Winter in Lapland and Sweden. With Plates
and Map. I vol. 4to. 1827.
Scandinavia.
books won scandinavia.
si
Boch, Von. Travels through Norway and Lapland in 1806-7-H.

Illustrated with Maps and Physical Sections. Translated from
the German. 1 vol. 4to. 1813.
Clarke, Dr. Travels in various Countries in Europe, &c, &o. Part
3rd. Scandinavia. 2 vols. 4to. 1819 and 1823.
Coxe. Travels in Poland, Russia, Sweden, and Denmark. 5 vols. 8vo.
5th edition. 1802.
Lord Dufferin. Letters from High Latitudes. London. 1857.
Ddnham. History of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway (part of Dr.
Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia). 3 vols. 12mo. 1839.
Elliott. Letters from the North of Europe, or a Journal of Travels
in Holland, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, &c. 1 vol. 8vo. 1832.
Everest. Journey through Norway, Lapland, and part of Sweden,
with remarks on the Geology of the Country. 1 vol. 8vo.
1829. .
Forbes. Norway and its Glaciers. Edinburgh. 1853.
Forester's Norway in 1848 and 1849. London. 1850.
Geyer. Histoire de Suede. Translated from the Swedish. 1 vol.
Paris. 1844.
Laing. Journal of a Residence in Norway during 1834-5-6. 1 vol.
8vo. 1836.
Laing. Denmark and the Duchies. London. 1852.
Laing. A Tour in Sweden in 1838. 1 vol. 8vo. 1839.
Latham. Norway and the Norwegians. 2 vols. 12mo. 1840.
Letters from the Shores of the Baltic. 1 vol. 12mo. 1845.
Lloyd. Field Sports in the North of Europe. 2 vols. 8vo. 1830.
Metcalfe's Oxonian in Norway. London. 1856.
Milford. Norway and her Laplanders in 1841. 1 vol. 8vo. 1842.
Porter, Sir R. Ker. Travelling Sketches in Russia and Sweden.
Illustrated with coloured Plates. 2 vols. 4to. 1809.
Price, Ed. Norway. Views of Wild Scenery. 1 vol. 4to. 1834.
Smith, Rev. A. Views in Sweden and Norway, with descriptive
Letter-press. 1 vol. M'Lean. 1847.
Sylvanus. Rambles in Sweden and Gottland. 1 vol. 8vo. 1847.
Taylor Bayard. Northern Travel. Summer and Winter Pictures of
Sweden, Lapland, and Norway. London. 1858
Thomson. Travels in Sweden during the Autumn of 1812. Illustrated
with Maps and Plates. 1 vol. 4to. 1813.
Two Summers in Norway, by the Author of " The Angler in Ireland."
(Mr. Belton.) 2 vols. 8vo. 1840.
Voyage d'une Femme au Spitzberg. Paris. 1852.
xii
passports and list of amdassadors.
Introduction.
Zbigler's Views on the West Coast of Norway, with Costumes of the

Peasants, and descriptive Letter- press, from the Journal of the
Duke of Rutland. 1 vol. M'Lean. 1848.
4. passports akd list or ambassadors, etc.
Throughout Scandinavia the regulations as to passports are much
less strict than they were formerly, hut an English foreign-office
passport is now so cheap, that it is as well to take one.
If you intend to stay a day in Hamburg, as no passport is requisite
to land in that city, you can procure a passport there from the
English Consul, taking care, at the same time, to have it vise by the
Consuls of each country which the bearer intends to enter. If this
be not done, the traveller will have to pay for a new passport there.
If the traveller does not go direct by sea to Hamburg, or intend
stopping there, he may obtain his passport in London from the Am
bassador or Consul of the first State he intends landing in, and after
wards have it vise for the others he intends visiting. No traveller
has a right to enter a foreign country without a passport or vise from
its Minister or Consul. But such passport and vise obtained in Lon
don cost more than in Hamburg. In London about 5s. are charged
for the passport and each vise given by a Consul. In Hamburg
the passport costs nearly the same, but the vise only about Is. each.
Those who travel by railway from Ostend to Hamburg should have
a Belgian passport vise for Prussia and Hanover.
The following is a list of the Ambassadors and Consuls for each
country, likely to be visited in the North of Europe. The former
give passports and visi gratuitously.
Belgium, Ambassador, 9 A, Weymouth Street, corner of Portland
Place. Consulate, Adelaide Chambers, 53 Gracechurch Street, City.
Prussia. Ambassador, 9, Carlton House Terrace, Pall Mall. Consul,
106, Fenchurch Street, 10 to 4.
Hanover. Ambassador, 44, Grosvenor Place. Consul, 31, Lombard
Street, City.
Holland. Ambassador, 20, Lowndes Square. Consulate, Mansfield
Buildings, Crosby Square, Gt. St. Helens.
Russia. Ambassador, Chesham House, Belgrave Square. Consul,
14, Albany, Piccadilly, and 2, Winchester Buildings, Great Win
chester Street.
Denmark. Ambassador, 7, Lowndes Square, S. W. Consul, 6,
Warnford Court, Throgmorton Street.
Scandinavia.
MONEY.
xiii
Sweden and Nortcaij. Ambassador, 14, Halkin Street West, Belgrave

Square. Consul, 2, Alderman's Walk, Bishopsgate.
N.B.The usual time for applying at Ambassadors' for passports
or visS is from about 11 to 3. Consuls, 10 to 4.
5. MONEY.
The exchanges all over Scandinavia are regulated by the Hamburg
quotations. The money-changers in that city are most extortionate.
English money can rarely be exchanged with them, except at a very
considerable loss. The best plan is therefore only to part with suffi
cient gold in Hamburg to pay the traveller's expenses to Denmark,
or elsewhere ; and on arriving there to get a supply of money of the
country, which, though always obtainable in Hamburg, is charged
highly for, even by the bankers, in addition to their commission.
A traveller should always furnish himself with money of the
country immediately he enters it. If he does not do so, but pays in
foreign money instead, it is sure to entail a considerable loss, besides
leading to disputes about price and value.
Letters of credit or circular notes are now issued by most of the
leading banks in London ; any banker not doing so will obtain them
for his regular customers. . Letters of credit contain a printed list
of the banker's correspondents in each of the chief towns in Europe,
and enable the bearer to draw the whole or any of his credit when
and how he pleases ; and, as the London bankers stand in high
repute upon the Continent, any banker or merchant, though not
named in the letter, is usually most glad to advance money upon it,
charging the usual commission of 11. per cent., which should cover
postages, ka
li circular notes are taken, they should not be for larger sums than
201. each. No commission is charged upon them, as the London
banker has the amount remaining in his hands till the notes fall due ;
but postage and stamps are charged, and bring it to about the same
expense as drawing under a letter of credit. As all the Scandina
vian paper money is issued by the respective Governments, it may
be taken with perfect security ; and for large amounts, such as those
for which gold would be taken in England, is preferable to silver.
Gold is most rarely seen in Scandinavia.
English money, either in notes or gold, is often sold at a loss, which
in some parts of Sweden and Norway becomes considerable ; therefore
xiv
travelling servants.carriages, etc.
Introduction.
bills drawn upon letters of credit are the best to rely upon, and next
to these circular notes.
6. TRAVELLING SERVANTS.
Avoid taking English servants to Scandinavia, and particularly
women, as they would prove a far greater trouble than comfort.
Few, if any, regular couriers speak Danish or Swedish, and would
therefore be also useless. But at Copenhagen, Gottenburg, Stockholm,
and Cliristiania, there are men who speak English, and have been
much accustomed to travel with gentlemen, chiefly upon sporting
expeditions in Norway and Sweden. These persons drive well, prepare
the Forbud papers, cook, and are particularly useful. They are paid
about As. 6d. a day, besides their lodging, and travelling expenses.
It is difficult to procure a good interpreter in Trondhjem.
No gentleman should take a lady into the interior of Norway or
Sweden without knowing something of the language himself, or
having a servant who understands it.
In going to Norway it is best to hire a servant at Copenhagen or
Gottenburg, as it is often difficult to obtain one in Christiania. It is
advisable to have a written agreement with these men before starting,
and in case of not returning to the place where they were engaged,
it is well to make a particular arrangement about their return.
7. carriages.
Most English carriages would be useless in Scandinavia. The
best plan is to hire or buy what may be requisite in the country, as
they are very cheap, and can easily be repaired in case of accident.
8. CL0TI1ES AND LUGGAGE.
Some people consider that "any old clothes will do for travelling ;"
this is a mistake, and especially if the journey be a long one, as, apart
from appearance, old clothes frequently require repairing at most
inconvenient times and places. A travelling suit, however coarse the
material it is of, should be new and strong. No more clothes
should be taken than are essential, as in case of need others can
always be purchased. In fact, one stout leather trunk or box, of
about 28 inches long by 14 wide and 12 deep, ought to contain all
that can be wanted, and is by far the most convenient size and
Bhape for the North ; if fitted with a tray 6 inches deep, it will be
found better than a portmanteau. For Norway it is desirable to
take either a pair of saddle-bags connected by abroad band of leather
Scandinavia.
CLOTHES AND LUGGAGE.
XV
and buckles, or a very large knapsack of fustian mackintosh. They

are most useful in making expeditions across the mountains where
nothing larger can be taken. All articles of luggage should be
waterproof.
Ladies who visit Scandinavia must, for the time, be content to
abandon their bonnet-boxes, and reduce their wardrobe within the
limits of such a trunk or box as that above specified. Carpet-bags
should be avoided for the North, but waterproof bags of the same
shape and size are useful in steamers, and in carriole travelling can
be carried either between the feet or slung beneath the carriole ;
when stopping for one night only, they often save the trouble of un
strapping the box. Of course, the bag should not be too large, if
intended to be carried in either of the above modes. The total
weight of each person's baggage should not exceed 50 lbs. All be
yond that must be paid for by those who travel by railways abroad
and other public conveyances, except steamers, and is very inconve
nient to transport by the light carriages of the country.
Clothes.Two suits are amply sufficient : a new and strong one, all
of woollen material, for every-day use, and another for towns. The
socks or stockings should be worsted, as cotton soon blisters the feet
in walking. A gentleman travelling without any " dear mother,
wife, or sister " to grumble at in case of his being so ill-used a man
as to find a button off his shirt, should be prepared with the requi
site materials to supply the defect himself. Shoes or boots should
be double-soled and well nailed for every-day use. Caps are so gene
rally worn by gentlemen upon the Continent that a hat is quite
unnecessary. Those who prefer a hat will do well to take no hat-box,
to have the hat made low in the crown, and with a broad brim.
Kor wraps a loose pea-jacket of stout cloth, collar made high and to
fit the neck well ; a light glazed mackintosh cape, coming a little
below the hip joint ; a Scotch plaid of the largest and coarsest kind
is invaluable ; and to these should be added a pair of stout sheepskin
gloves, and another of woollen.
Sundries.A brandy flask, some straps, a ball of twine, and parch
ment directions. An india-rubber cushion is invaluable : it serves as
a pillow by night, and eases the jolting of the carriole by day. A
portable india-rubber bath is a great luxury, when there is room to
carry it. Also pieces of gauze or muslin to tie over the hat or cap
and round the neck (to keep off musquitoes, which at times are a
great nuisance for fishing or shooting). Two veils hanging from the
hat, and fastened at the sides and round the neck, are perhaps the
xvi
SKELETON TOUUS.
Introduction.
best protection. Also leather gauntlets, such as ladies use in garden

ing, which protect the wrists when fishing. Cold cream scented with
spirits of turpentine, or, if that is not to be had, butter, or grease of
any kind, is good to keep them off or relieve the bites. When a lady
is of the party, it will be found a great comfort to have a very
strong umbrella, of about 33 inches long, covered with brown holland, which in Norway is the best protection against the great heat
of the mid-day sun, and also the heavy rains in the mountains.
A gun-case should be secured from wet by a tarpaulin cover.
Fishing-rods are best protected by a case of stout sole leuther, the
top being secured with a small padlock. A light hunting-whip for
driving will be useful.
The sportsman must not forget a telescope. A few small English
books, fine knives and scissors, fish-hooks, razors, shaving-brushes, or
packets of needles, will be found useful for presents, and take little
room ; in those places where it is absolutely requisite to claim hos
pitality of the clergy and merchants it is impossible to offer any
pecuniary return.
Anglers should take everything they require with them from
England, as none of the implements of "the gentle art" are to be
met with in the North. And the same applies to all kinds of
sketching materials. A few simple medicines had better be taken.
Ladies' Clothes.The travelling dress should be of new and strong
Scotch spun silk, or some very light woollen material. The bonnet
of stout straw, which should have two covers with wide curtains for
the neck. One of such covers of any light material to keep oif the
sun and dust ; the other of glazed mackintosh, for rain, as umbrellas
are often useless in the mountains. Stout boots and a pair of go
loshes for wet decks are useful. For wraps, the best are a Scotch
plaid, of the largest and coarsest sort. A polka of any thin cloth,
and wadded ; and a large cloak with sleeves and cape ; it should
be made to fit the neck well, like a man's, and be of the lightest
waterproof material, with a loose lining of thin woollen ; this is
essential, as the rains are sudden and heavy in the mountains.
Thus provided, a lady is quite safe in the heaviest rains in boats, or
riding.
9. SKELETON TOURS.
1. Partial tour of Scandinavia, which may be accomplished in 5
months, from the end of April to 30th of September, allowing
sufficient time to rest at the different places of most interest.
Scandinavia.
SKELETON TOURS.
xi ii
Denmark.From England by either of the routes given, to

Hamburg, Kiel ; thence join Route 8 to Rendsborg, Sleswig,
Odense, and Nyeborg. From thence by Route 9, through the
islands to Copenhagen. Excursions from thence to Elsineur,
&c. Aarhuus, in Jutland, Routes 10 and 11, and back to Copen
hagen. For all this 5 weeks should be allowed. Sweden.From
Copenhagen to Malmo, Luud, Ystad, Carlskrona, Kalinar, Westervik, Wisby, in Gottland, back to Westervik, Soderkoping, by
the Gota Canal, Route 63, to Gottenburg. Allow 3 weeks.
Norway.By land from Gottenburg to Frederikshald, the Falls
of the Glommen and Frederikstad ; thence by water to Christiania ; Drammen, Kongsberg, the Riukan-Fos, and back to
Kongsberg; thence over the Fille Fjeld to Bergen ; seeing the
Voring-Fos, Hardanger Fjord, <fec, en route. From Bergen by
water to the Sogne Fjord ; thence by land, Route 24, to Molde,
by steamer to Trondhjem and Haminerfest, boat to North Cape,
back to Trondhjem. Circuit from theuce, over the Dovre Fjeld,
down Romsdalen, Route 30, and up the coast, Route 24, back to
Tiondhjem. Allow 2 mouths. Sweden.By Route 33, to Suudsvall, Dalecarlia, aud Upsala, Route 62, Stockholm and environs,
Lubeck, Hamburg, England. Allow a month ; in all 5 months.
2. Tour of 3 months, from 1st June to end of September.
DenmarkFrom England to Hamburg, Kiel, Copenhagen ;
excursions to Moen, Malmo, and Lund, return to Copenhagen ;
Roeskilde, Elsineur. Allow 16 days. Norway. Steamer to
Christiania, to various places as in last tour, as far as Molde ;
from thence continue by Route 24 to Trondhjem, then over the
Dovre Fjeld, Route 20, down Romsdalen and back, through
Gudbrandsdalen to Christiania. Sieamer to Frederikstad, Falls
of the Glommen, Frederikshald. Allow 42 days. Sweden.
From Frederikshald by land to Gottenburg ; by Gota Canal,
land at Soderkoping ; Westervik, Wisby, Stockholm, and envi
rons ; Upsala, back to Stockholm, Wismar, Lubeck, Hamburg,
England. Allow a month ; in all 3 months.
3. Tour of 2 months, from 1st August to 30th September.
Norway.From England to Hamburg, Kiel, Christiania. Over
the Fille Fjeld to Bergen, seeing the Voring-Fos, &c, en route,
back to Christiania by the south road, Route 22 ; steamer to
Falls of the Glommen and Frederikshald. Allow 33 days.
Sweden.By Falls of Trollhattan, and Route 69, to Stockholm,
xviii
SKELETON TOUKS.
Introduction.
environs, and Upsala. Steamer to Ystad, Lund, Malmo. Allow

17 days. Denmark.Copenhagen and environs ; home direct by
St. Petersburg steamer, or by Hamburg. Allow 1 1 days ; in all
2 months.
4. Tour of 5 months through Denmark and Iceland, from 1st May to
30th Sept.
From England to Hamburg, through Holstein and Sleswig to
Kolding by Route 8 ; round Jutland, Route 9 ; Aarhuus, Copen
hagen. Allow 7 weeks. Iceland.Allow a month there, and
about 22 days for the voyage there and back to Copenhagen ;
environs, Eoeskilde, Elsineur, the Danish islands, Route 9 ; Kiel,
Hamburg, England. Allow a month ; in all 5 months.
6. Tour of 5 months through Norway, from 1st May to 30th Sept.
From England to Hamburg, Kiel, Gottenburg ; by land to
Frederikshald, Falls of Glommen, Frederikstad ; water to Christiania ; water to Frederiksvoern, Route 25 ; land, Route 24, to
Stavanger, across the mountains to Route 23, the Voring-Fos,
Kongsberg, Dramrnen ; over the Fille Fjeld, Route 21, to Bergen,
making excursions to the Sogne Fjeld, Route 38, the Justedal
Glaciers, Voring-Fos, and Hardanger Fjord, &c, en route ; water
to Sogne Fjord, land by Molde and Christiansund to Trondhjem
and the Namsen ; steamer to Hammerfest ; boat to the North
Cape and back to Trondhjem ; over the Dovre Fjeld, excursions
from Jerkin, Route 26, to Roraas, and Sneehoettan ; down and
up Romsdalen, Route 30 ; by Gudbrandsdalen to Christiania,
Copenhagen, Ern^Bd.
6. Tour of 5 months through Sweden, from 1st of May to end of Sep
tember.
From England to Hamburg, Lubeck, Ystad, MalmS, Lund,
Helsingborg ; steamer to Gottenburg, or by land ; Gota Canal
round by Carlstad, and land at Soderkoping, Westervik, Wisby,
and round Gottland, Stockholm, and environs ; Upsala and Dalecarlia, Falun, Gefle ; steamer up coast of Gulf of Bothnia and
back to Stockholm, Sodertelje, Nykoping, Norrkoping, Linkoping, Eksjo, Kalniar, the island of Oland, Carlskrona, Carlshamn,
Ystad, Lubeck, Hamburg, (or from Ystad to Copenhagen, and by
the St. Petersburg steamer to) England.
7. Yachting trip to W. coast of Norway ; best time for being there
July and August. Some of the grandest scenery is to be found
Scandinavia.
STEAMERS.
in the upper parts of the great fjords, and a little distance

inland from them.
From England to the Hardanger Fjord, S. of Bergen, see
Route 21. The Folge Fond, Ostud-Fos, Voring-Fos, cfcc. Send
yacht round to Leirdalsoren in the Sogne Fjord. Cross on horse
back, or by carriole, from the N.E. of the Hardanger Fjord to
Vossevangen, and on to Gudvangen ; by boat to Leirdali>6ren,
Route 21. Ascend to Nystuen on the Fille Fjeld, return to
Leirdalsoren ; visit the Justedal Glaciers and other grand
scenery at head of the branches of the Sogne Fjord. In yacht
to the mouth of the fjord, land at the Leervig station, and
proceed by Route 24 to Molde, sending yacht round there. Visit
Romsdalen, Route 30, from Molde, excursions up branches of the
Romsdal Fjord ; Aalesund, and its historical environs ; Bergen,
England.
N.B.A sailor who would act as interpreter (Tolk) might pro
bably be met with in London, or upon reaching the coast ; if not,
then one might be obtained from Burgeu on entering the Hardan
ger Fjord. A tent and canteen (and if ladies are of the party, side
saddles) should be taken.
10. SCANDINAVIAN STEAMERS FOB 1858.
Hull to Bergen.June 18th and every three weeks. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 31. 3s. Agents, Messrs. Dunkerly and Co., 72, Humber Street,
Hull.
Hull to Christiania.Calling at Christi$nsand. The " Scandi
navian," June 23th and every 14 days. Agents, Messrs. Thos.
Wilson and Co., Hull. Also the " Ganger Rolf " on the same days.
Agents, Messrs. T. B. Morley and Co., Hull. Passage from Friday
night to Tuesday morning.
Hull to Copenhagen.The St. Petersburg steamers touch at
Copenhagen en route.
Hull to Gottenburg.Every Friday.
Hull to Tonning.On the 10th, 20th, and 30th of every month,
returning on the 6th, 16th, and 26th. Agents, Messrs. Eagle,
Bolt, and Co., Grimsby. See Route 13.
Hamburg to Christiania.Every other Saturday from May 22nd ;
from Christiania every other Saturday from May 29th at 5 p.m.,
calling at Arendal, and reaching Christiansand on Sunday at noon.
Hamburg on Tuesday morning.
XX
STEAMEES.
Introduction.
Hamburg to Trondhjem, calling at Christiansand and Bergen.

From Hamburg on Saturdays, Christiansand on Mondays at noon,
reaching Bergen on Tuesday afternoon. From Bergen northwards
on Sundays, reaching Trondhjem on Tuesday afternoon. From
Trondhjem on Sundays at 5 a.m., reaching Bergen on Tuesday after
noon. From Bergen, southwards, on Thursdays ; Christiansand,
Fridays, reaching Hamburg on Sundays.
London to Copenhagen and St. Petursburg.Weekly during the
Baltic season. Offices, 64, Mark Lane. Messrs. A. G. Robinson and Co.
London to TSnhino.On the 10th, 20th, and 30th of every month :
returning from Tonning on the 5th, 15th, and 25th. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 11. See Route 13.
DANISH STEAMERS.
Kiel to Copenhagen.On Tuesdays and Fridays at 9 p.m.,
reaching Copenhagen in from 14 to 18 hours. Fare, Chief Cabin,
7 rb. d. Returning from Copenhagen on Mondays and Thursdays at
2 p.m. See Route 20.
Kiel to Korsor.Every evening at 9 on the arrival of the train
from Altona, reaching Korsor in 6 or 8 hours. Fare, Chief Cabin,
4 rb. d. From Korsor every evening at 10.30. See Routes 1 and 8.
Copenhagen to Aalborg.On Mondays and Thursdays at 3 p.m.
Fare, Chief Cabin, 7 rb. d. 16 sk. From Aalborg on Tuesdays and
Saturdays at 5 p.m. See Route 11.
Copenhagen to Aarhuus.On Fridays at 5 a.m. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 5 rb. d. 16 sk. From Aarhuus on Sundays at 6 a.m.
Copenhagen to Bandiiolm.On Mondays at 7 a.m., calling at
RSdvig, Koster, Kallehave, Gaabense, Wordingborg, and Feio. Fare,
Chief Cabin, 5 rb. d. 1G sk. From Bandholm on Tuesdays at 9 a.m.
See Route 9.
Copenhagen to Borniiolm.On Mondays and Thursdays at 8 A.M.,
calling at Ystad. Fare, Chief Cabin, 5 rb. d. From Bornholm on
Wednesdays and Saturdays at. 5 a.m. See Route 60.
Copenhagen to Gottenburg.On Mondays and Tuesdays at
11 a.m., and on Fridays at 9 a.m., calling at Helsingborg, Halmstad,
and Warberg. Fare, Chief Cabin, 6 rb. d. Also by the Christiania
steamer on Wednesdays at 1 p.m. From Gottenburg on Sundays at
5 a.m., on Tuesdays at 6 a.m., on Thursdays at 7 a.m., and on Fridays
at 4 p.m. See Routes 20 and 63.
Copenhagen to Kolding.On Wednesdays at 6 a.m., calling at
Scandinavia.
STEAMERS.
xxi
Rodvig, Koster, Kallehave, Gaabense, Wordingborg, Svendborgi

Faaborg, and AarSsund. Fare, Chief Cabin, 7 rb. 16 sk. From
Koldirig on Thursdays at 3 a.m. See Route 9.
Copenhagen to Lubeck.On Sundays and Wednesdays. From
Lubeck on Thursdays and Saturdays. See Route 7.
Copenhagen to Malmo,Every day. See Route 76.
Copenhagen to Stettin.On Mondays and Thursdays at 3 p.m.
Fare, Chief Cabin, 8 rb. d. Return tickets, 12 rb. d. From Stettin
on Wednesdays and Saturdays, at noon. See Route 61.
Copenhagen to Wismar.On Tuesdays and Fridays at 3 p.m.
Fare, Chief Cabin, 6 rb. d. From Wismar on Sundays and Thursdays
at 4 p.m.
NORWEGIAN STEAMEHS.
Christiania to Kiel.On Tuesdays at noon, calling at Drobak,
Horten, Moss, Vallo, at Fredrikshavn, and Korsor (see Route 1) on
Wednesdays, and reaching Kiel on Thursday morning. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 8 sp. d. Returning from Kiel on Saturdays at noon, calling
at Korsor at 8 the same evening, Frederikshavn on Sunday at 8 a m.,
Vallo at 8 p.m., and reaching Christiania on Monday morning. See
Route 20.
Christiania to Copenhagen.On Saturdays at 6 a.m., calling at
the ports in the Christiania Fjord, and reaching Gottenburg late at
night. The steamer leaves Gottenburg at 5 a.m. on Sunday morning,
and reaches Copenhagen in the afternoon. Fare, Chief Cabin, 8 sp. d.
From Copenhagen on Wednesdays at 1 p.m. ; from Gottenburg on
Thursdays at 4 a.m., reaching Christiania in the afternoon. See
Routes 1 and 20.
From Christiania to Christiansand and Bergen. On Thurs
days at 10 a.m. See Route 25 for places called at. From Christiansand on Saturdays at 5 a.m., reaching Bergen on Sundays at 8 p.m.
From Bergen on Saturdays at 5 a.m. From Christiansand on Mon
days at 10 a.m., reaching Christiania on Tuesday afternoon. N.B.
After August 19th slight changes are made : the steamer leaving
Bergen on Fridays at 5 a.m. instead of on Saturdays, &e.
From Bergen to Trondhjem and Hammerfest. On Tuesdays
at 5 a.m., calling at places mentitned in Route 25.
From Trondhjem on Saturdays at 8 p.m., calling at Rodbjerget
and Beian.
On Sundays at 3 A.M. from Valdersund, calling at Sydkrogo,
Bjoroen, Namsos at 3 p.m., Foslandsosen at 4 p.m., and Nordkrogo.
xxii
STEAMERS.
Introduction.
On Mondays at 1 a.m. from Gutvig, calling, among other places, at

S6vig i Alstahaug at 8 a.m., and Kobberdal at 10 a.m., reaching Bodo'
in the evening.
*
On Tuesdays at 5 a.m. from Bodo, calling at Groto at 10 a.m.,
Balstad at 2 p.m., and Steilo.
On Wednesdays at 3 a.m. from Digermulen, Qibostad at 8 a.m.,
reaching Tromsoe early on Thursday morning.
On Thursdays at 6 p.m. from Tromsoe, calling at Carlsoe at 10 p.m.
On Fridays at 1 a.m. from Havnoes, Skjervo, Loppen at 6 a.m. ;
Oxfjord, Talvig, Kaafjord at 2 p.m., Bosekop at 3 p.m., Komagfjord,
reaching Hammerfest at night.
.
From Hammerfest on Sundays at 2 a.m., calling at Bosekop at 8 a.m.
On Mondays, Carlsoe at 1 a.m., reaching Tromsoe early in the day.
From Tromsoe on Tuesdays at 2 a.m., calling at Gibostad at 8 a.m.,
and other places.
On Wednesdays, Digermulen at 1 a.m., Steilo at 4 a.m., Balstad at
2 p.m., Groto at 6 p.m., reaching Bodo at night.
On Thursdays at 6 a.m. from Bodo, calling at Kobberdal at 6 p.m.,
Sovig at 8 p.m., and other places.
On Fridays, Gutvig at 3 a.m., Namsos at 1 p.m., reaching Trondhjem
on Saturdays before noon.
From Trondhjem on Mondays at 5 a.m., calling at Christiansund
at 5 p.m., reaching Molde at night.
On Tuesdays at 5 a.m. from Molde, Aalesund at 10 a.m., reaching
Bryggen in the evening.
On Wednesdays Floroen at 3 a.m., arriving at Bergen about the
middle of the day. See Routes 24 and 25.
N.B. The days of these steamers are liable to be changed after the
middle of August. A list of the times and alterations hangs in every
steamer ; this list may also be obtained in Christiania.
Hammerfest to Vadso.On Saturdays at 2 a.m., calling at Rolfsohavn, Havosund, Maaso, Repvaag, Lebesby, or Kistrand, and
Kjollefjord.
On Sundays, calling at Gamvig, Hop, Stangenoes, Beilevaag, Havningberg, reaching Vardohuus in the evening, and Vadso about 6
a.m. on Mondays.
From Vadso on Tuesdays at 4 a.m., Vardohuus at 8 a.m. On
Wednesdays from Gamvig as far as Lebesby, or Kjollefjord, reaching
Hammerfest on Thursdays. See Routes 24 and 25.
Christiania to Frederikshald.On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and
Saturdays, at 7 a.m., during the months of June, July, and August,
Scandinavia.
STEAMERS.
xxiii
reaching Frederikshald between 3 and 4 p.m. Prom Frederikshald,

on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 7 a.m., calling at Frederikstad, Moss, Horten, and Diobak. See Routes 20 and 36.
Christiania to Sarpsborg.On Sundays and Thursdays at 8 a.m.
From Sarpsborg on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 6 a.m., calling at the
ports in the Christiania Fjord. See Routes 20 and 36.
Christiania to Skien.On Mondays and Fridays at 7 a.m., calling
at Drobak, Moss, Horten, Vallo, Laurvig, Frederiksvcern, Langesund,
Brevig, and Porsgrund, reaching Skien at 6 p.m. From Skien on
Wednesday and Saturdays at 7 a.m., reaching Christiania at 6 p.m.
See Routes 23, 24, and 25.
Skien to Langesund, on the Langesund Fjord.On Sundays at
9 a.m., on Mondays at 6 p.m., on Tuesdays at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m., on
Wednesdays at 2 p.m., on Thursdays at noon and 6 p.m., on Fri
days at 3 p.m., and on Saturdays at 5 p.m. and at noon, calling
at Brevig and Porsgrund. From Langesund on Sundays at 2| p.m.,
on Tuesdays at 51 a.m. and 12 p.m., on Wednesdays at 7 A.M.,
on Thursdays at 6 a.m. and 2| p.m., on Fridays at 6 a.m.,
and on Saturdays at 5^ a.m. and at 12j.
See Routes 23, 24,
and 25.
Christiania to Christiansand.On Sundays and Thursdays at
7 a.m., calling at the intermediate ports, and reaching Christiansand
at 10 p.m. From Christiansand on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 4 a.m.
See Routes 24 and 25.
Nordsjo Steamer in Thelemarken.From Fjserestrand on Mon
days at noon ; on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays at 7 a.m.,
touching at Uhlefos, Gvarv, Ackerhaugen, Farvolden, reaching Tangen i Hitterdal in 6 hours. From Tangen on Tuesdays at 6 a.m., and
on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays at 2 p.m. See Route 23.
Steamer on the Bandagsvand.From Dal on Mondays, Wednes
days, and Saturdays at 6 a.m., reaching Strcengen about noon. From
Stroengen on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays at 3 p.m. See
Route 23, page 199.
Miosen Steamers. See Route 26.
Bergen to Leirdalsoren. On Tuesdays at 8 p.m. : returning
from Leirdalsoren on Wednesday mornings, after the arrival of the
post from Christiania. See Route 21, page 176, and Route 24, page 208.
SWEDISH STEAMERS.
Stockholm to Arboga.On Tuesdays and Fridays at 7 a.m., call
ing at Strengnas. From Arboga on Wednesdays and Saturdays at
10. See Route 67.
xxlv
STEAMERS.
Introduction.
Stockholm to Gottenburg.See Route 63.

Stockholm to Haparanda. Two or three times a week: days
advertised in the Swedish newspapers, calling at Gefle, Hernosand,
Hudiksvall, Lulea, Pitea, Skelleftea, Sundsvall, and Umea. See
Routes 34 and 65.
.
Stockholm to Kalmar.On Wednesdays at noon, and Saturdays
at 2 p.m., calling at Wisby. Prom Kalmar on Wednesdays and Satur
days at 6 p.m. See Route 60.
Stockholm to Lubeck.On Thursdays at 8 a.m., calling at Kal
mar and Ystad. From Lubeck on Thursdays. See Route 60.
Stockholm to Malmo Three steamers a week, calling at Ahus,
Westervik, Kalmar, Carlskrona, Carlshamn. See Routes 60, 74, and
76.
Stockholm to Stettin.On Tuesdays at 8 a.m. each way, calling
at Kalmar. See Route 61.
Stockholm to Sundsvall. On Sundays at 7 a.m. ; on Wednes
days at noon ; on Fridays at 8 p.m. From Sundsvall on Mondays
and Tuesdays at 4 p.m. ; and Saturdays at 6 p.m. See Routes 64 and
65.
Stockholm to Upsala. On Mondays and Tuesdays at 8 a.m.;
on Wednesdays at 8 a.m. and 10 a.m. ; on Thursdays and Fridays at
8 a.m. ; and on Saturdays at 8 a.m. and 3 p.m. From Upsala on Sun
days at 3 p.m. ; on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays at 8 a.m. ;
on Thursdays at 10 a.m. ; and on Fridays and Saturdays at 8 a.m.
See Route 62.
Stockholm to Orebro. On Sundays, Wednesdays, and Fridays at
5 a.m., calling at Strengniis. From Orebro on Sundays, Tuesdays,
and Fridays. See Route 67.
Gottenburg to Malmo.On Tuesday and Thursday mornings,
calling at Warberg, Falkenberg, Halmstad, Helsingborg, Copenha
gen on Wednesdays and Saturdays about midday, reaching Malmo
in the evening. From Malmo on Mondays and Fridays at 5 a.m.
Copenhagen at 8 a.m., reaching Gottenburg on Wednesdays and
Saturdays. See Routes 76 and 77.
Gottenburg to Lubeck.On Fridays at 4 p.m., calling at War
berg, Halmstad, Helsingborg, Landskrona, Copenhagen on Saturdays
at 4 p.m., and reaching Lubeck early on Sunday morning. From
Lubeck on Mondays at 4 p.m., Copenhagen on Tuesdays at 11 a.m.,
reaching Gottenburg on Wednesdays about noon. See Route 63.
DENMARK.
IXTRODL'CTOUY INFORMATION".
1. Routes from, England to Denmark. 2. Money, Measures, Weights.
3. Alphabet, Vocabulary, and Dialogues of the Danish Language, see
Norway. 4. Passj)orts. 5. Roads, Posting, Diligences, Railroads,
Ferries, Steamboats, and Inns. 6. Succinct Account of Denmark.
7. Historical Notice. 8. Productive Industry. 9. The People, the
Peasantry, Public Instruction.
ROUTES.
DOVTE
PAGE
1. London to Copenhagen by
7.
Hamburg, Kiel, and Kor8.
siir
18
Railway from Ostend to Co
logne, Hanover, Hamburg,
9.
and Kiel
.
.
.52
Kail from Antwerp to Co
logne, Hanover, Hamburg,
and Kiel
... 56
10.
Rotterdam up the Rhine to
Duisburg ; or by Rotter
dam, Utrecht, Oberhausen,
Hanover, Hamburg, and
11.
Kiel ; or by Amsterdam,
Utrecht, &c. ; or by steamer
12.
direct from Amsterdam to
Copenhagen .
.
.57
5. Hamburg to Kiel by Plon
and Preets .
.
.59 13.
6. Hamburg to luleck .
. 60
Lubeck to Copenhagen
. 04
Hamburg to Copenhagen,
crossing the Great and
Little Belts, by Nyeborg
and Roeskilde .
.
. 64
Nyeborg in the Island of Fu
ndi (see Route 8) to Copen
hagen through the Islands
of Thorseng, Langcland,
Holland, Falster, and
Moen .
.
.
.72
Copenhagen to 'Ebinenr by
Roeskilde, Frederikssu ml,
FredeHkrark, Frederiksborg, and Fredcnshorg . 77
Copenhagen to Aarhnus and
round Jutland,.
.
. 83
Copenhagen to Iceland, call
ing at Aberdeen, and the
Orkney, Shetland, and
FarSe Islands .
.
.88
London to Copenhagen by
Tonning and Kiel .
. 100
1. ROUTES FROM ENGLAND TO DENMARK.

The various ways of reaching Denmark in going from England are detailed
in Route 1.
mosey, measures, weights, passports.
Denmark.
2. MOSEY, MEASURES, WEIGHTS.

Accounts are kept in Rigsbank dollars, marks, and skillings, except bankers"
accounts, which are kept in a nominal coin, marks banco, as at Hamburg.
16 Skillings
make 1 Mark
6 Marks
... 1 Rigsbank dollar
2 Rigsbank dollars ... 1 Specie dollar.
The British value of these coins of course slightly varies according to the
rate of exchange, which is regulated by Hamburg prices ; but they generally
average about asioUows :
English.
. d.
1 Skilling
about 0 0$
1 Mark
... 0
1 Rigsbank dollar ... 2 3
1 Specie dollar ... 4 6
The current money of Denmark is paper dollars, silver, and copper. A fewgold ducats, as well as Fredericks, and Christians, are in circulation, but are
rarely seen. Their value is about two species, one mark, 9s. 4Jci. The bank
notes represent 1, 5, 50, and 100 Rigsbank dollars, and each amount is
printed on a different-coloured paper. This paper money may be taken with
perfect safety, and passes current not only in Denmark, but also in Christiania.
It is far more convenient than silver for sums of one dollar and upwards.
The notes of one and five are the best to take, larger notes are inconvenient to
get changed.
The recent issue of silver coin is handsome and convenient. It consists of
pieces of one specie dollar, one Rigsbank dollar, one mark, half mark (eight
skillings), and quarter mark (four skillings). A good supply of this small
money Ehould be secured as soon as possible, as it is most useful, and will
often save larger coin.
Measures.Twelve inches make 1 foot, and 2 feet 1 elL The Danish foot
is equal to 12| English inches. N.B. The Danish mile is 8244 English
yards, or 4| English miles and 330 yards.
Weights. 2 Lods make 1 Unze
8 Unzes ... 1 Mark
2 Marks ... 1 Skaalpund,
which is equal to lj'j lbs. English avoirdupois.
3. TIIE DANISH LANGUAGE.
The Danish and modern Norwegian being the same language, and a voca
bulary, dialogues, &c, being more likely to be useful in Norway than in Den
mark, they are placed with the Norwegian introductory information.
4. PASSPORTS.
Regulations as to passports are much altered of late, and less strict. Pass
Denmark.
ROADS, POSTING.
ports are not demanded on entering the Danish territory from Hamburg or
leaving it at Kiel, but are called for immediately on landing at Copenhagen.
The rise of a Danish minister or consul is not essential to enable a traveller
to enter Denmark ; but if such ris( be not upon the passport, the bearer
must take and pay for a Danish one. He is then entitled to have that under
which he entered the country returned to him.
A book is kept at each hotel or inn, and travellers are bound by law to
enter their names, &c, in such book. The landlords of the hotels at the
request of their guests will always procure their passports with proper rise",
upon being informed of the time of departure and place of destination.
5. EOADS, POSTINGS, DILIGENCES, RAILROADS, FERRIES, STEAMBOATS, INNS.
Roads. All the high roads of Denmark (roads along which the mails
travel), denominated royal routes, according to the custom so characteristic
of an absolute Government, of connecting everything with the royal name
and power, are under the care of the corps of royal engineers ; and to judge
from the constant repairs going on, the corps seems, as to this part of its
business, to enjoy no sinecure. The public, however, reap the benefit of
travelling on macadamized roads of greater width, and, during the summer,
of as great smoothness as those of most countries.
Posting, or as it is here called extra-post, is all carried on under the imme
diate supervision of the Government, and the directors of this department
are entitled to the gratitude of the public for the excellent regulations which
ensure the ease and comfort of travellers, and for the promptness with which
every complaint is attended to, and every trangression on the part of their
servants inquired into. Carriages for posting, as well as horses, are furnished
at the post-houses, and the traveller may choose chaises (Viencr-vogne) which
conveniently hold four inside, and can be closed and opened according to
desire, or Ilolsteins-vogne, a kind of open basket placed upon four wheels,
and having, according to its length, two, three, or four seats, placed one
behind, the other across it. These seats are in many cases hung upon springs,
and are very comfortable; but without spring seats they are wretchedly
jolting and uncomfortable ; and, as the body is never upon springs, luggage
placed in it is much damaged, unless carefully packed in plenty of straw.
The charge fixed by the tariff for a carriage of this kind, with two horses,
varies from 80 skillings to 88 skillings per Danish mile ; for a Viener-rogne,
with the same number of horses, the charge is 16 skillings per mile more than
for the former. Persons travelling in their own carriages are charged from
64 to 74 skillings per mile for each post horse ; 8 skillings per mile are paid
to the postilion, 4 skillings at every turnpike for a Ilolsteins-vogne with 2
horses, and 7 skillings for a chaise with the same number of horses. A
charge is also made for booking the order for an extra post at the post-office ;
16 skillings in Copenhagen, at all other stations 10 skillings. All these
B 2
DILIGENCES.
Denmark.
items are, however, included in a paper called Ttme-seddel, issued from the
post-office and brought by a special messenger, to whom the traveller pays in
advance the sum stipulated therein, after which the jjostilion has no claim
upon him. The paper is then delivered to the postilion, whose duty it is on
arrival at the post station to present it again to the traveller, that he may
note down his approval or disapproval of the postilion, as well as any other
observation he may have to make coming within the province of the postoffice. The extra post is bound, from 1st April to 30th September, to pro
ceed on all ehaussoes and other equally good roads when the stage is less than
4 Danish in., at the rate of 1 mile in of an hour ; when the stage is 4 m.,
at the rate of 4 m. in 3| hours ; and when the stage exceeds 4 m., at the
rate of 1 m. in the hour. The strictest injunctions are laid upon the postilion
to be civil and attentive to the travellers, and minute orders regulate his
duties as to conduct, neatness and propriety of dress, assistance to be given
in cases of emergency, and in the packing and unpacking of the luggage, and
even determine the kind of tools he is always to carry with him in order to be
able to make any slight repairs which an accident on the road might call for.
N.B. The extra post is to be on the- spot % of an hour after the order for
it has been given, and is to wait \ an hour without extra charge.
Diligences are of two kinds, Day-voyne, and Persons-poste. The former
are all of the basket kind, but are excellently built and kept in good repair.
They run on all the principal routes in Denmark Proper, but not in the
Duchies, and are so arranged as to communicate with each other. The tra
veller is not required to secure his place above J an hour before the time
appointed for starting, as, when the number of passengers exceeds the number
of places in the carriage, extra carriages are provided. The charge for each
person is 20 skillings per mile, besides 2 skillings per mile to the postilion,
who is fined if he demand more, and 8 skillings for booking the name
of the passenger. These charges are paid at the office before starting,
so that disputes with the postilions can never arise. The greatest inconve
nience in travelling in this way is the very limited quantity of luggage each
passenger is allowed to take with him, the rule being that the weight must
not exceed 25 or 30 lbs., and it depends upon the inspector (Opsynsmancl)
whether any extra weight be allowed even for extra payment.
The Persons-poste, which run in the Duchies as well as in Denmark Proper,
are diligences in the style of those of France and Germany, and carry the
mail. When the number of passengers exceeds the number of places, the
supernumeraries are provided with other closed carriages. The charges are,
in Denmark Proper, 40 skillings per mile, and in the Duchies of Sleswig and
Holstein 51 skillings, besides the charges for booking and for litsenbroders
(post servants who assist in the packing and unpacking of the coaches)
and for crossing 1 he Belts and the ferries. The whole cost between Hamburg
and Copenhagen, passing through the Duchies of Holstein and Sleswig, and
Denmark.
railroads, ferries, steamers, inns.
"the islands of Fyen and Zealand, is 31 rix dollars, 20 skillings. Smoking is

prohibited in the carriages, and children under four years of age and dogs
are not admitted. Every passenger is allowed to carry with him luggage not
exceeding 00 lbs. weight, 25 of which, however, alone go free of charge. The
Litsenbroders are bound to take the luggage of the passengers to their
respective dwelling-places without extra charge, when they are not beyond
the precincts of the post towns.
Railroad*.There are now (1858) four lines of railroad in Denmark. The
Zealand line from Copenhagen through Roeskilde to Korsor. The Sleswig line
from Flensborg through Orsted to Rendsborg : with branches from Orated to
Tonning, and from Rendsborg to join the Kiel and Altona railway at Neumunster. Thirdly, the Holstein line from Altona to Kiel, with the abovenamed branch to Rendsborg. And fourthly, the Lauenburg line from Lubeck
to Buchen, a branch of the line from Hamburg to Berlin.
Ferries.The charges for crossing the innumerable ferries in Denmark are
regulated by law, and the tariff is always suspended in a conspicuous spot near
the landing-place.
The Belts are during the summer crossed by steamers, and during the winter
by wherries or iceboats, according to the necessities of the moment. The
smaller ferries are crossed in wherries or sometimes in flat-bottomed boats,
which are so arranged as to admit of carriages being conveyed over without
the horses being taken out.
Steamboats.See Route 1.
Some of the steamers touch on their passage at several points, and thus
afford the means of visiting, without great trouble, the most interesting and
picturesque parts of the country, which does not along all routes present
variety enough to repay the fatigue of long land journeys. The steamers,
though not all fitted up in a luxurious style, are generally clean, the comforts
of the passengers are well attended to, and the charges are moderate.
Arrangements are talked of, by which a line of steamers from Copenhagen
will run every fortnight, between that city, Aberdeen in Scotland, the Orkney,
Shetland, and Faroe Islands, and Iceland : but they are not yet in force.
Inns. Upon the whole, the accommodations for travellers in Denmark,
though on a moderate scale, are not generally such as to call for any particular
comment. The hotels in Copenhagen must, however, be excepted. Though
established in palace-like buildings, which, with the least attention to order,
cleanliness, and elegance, would offer most desirable places of residence, they
are mostly so ill conducted as sadly to try the patience of the traveller. The
number of domestics is seldom adequate to the establishment, and the eye is
constantly offended by the sight of slovenly housemaids perambulating the corri
dors with scrubbing brushes and pails of dirty water, which seem however to
have failed in effecting their purpose. The servants are generally goodnatured and willing to serve ; but their manner, to English travellers in par
A SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF DENMARK.
Denmark.
ticular, accustomed to the strict decorum and respectful manner of welltrained English servants, seems rather free-and-easy. The Hotel Royal,
situated in the Old Strand (Oammel Strand), forms an honourable exception.
The inns in the country towns (for they do not aspire to the name of hotels)
are almost invariably kept clean and tidy, and are by no means deficient in
comforts ; though to the citizen of more luxurious countries, the bare but
well-scrubbed deal floors, strewn with white sand, the low ceiling and the
small square windows, with their unpretending curtains of home manufacture,
may seem cheerless and comfortless. To the more observing traveller, who
reads a nation's character in its outward circumstances, the simplicity of
these country inns has a charm of its own. Denmark, like the rest of the
world, is, however, progressing, and in several of the larger provincial towns
the inns are beginning to assume a more stately character. In Elsineur, in
particular, the influence of the many English residents is felt in greater atten
tion to material comforts. The charges are not regulated by law, but are
generally very reasonable. The inns in the small provincial towns throughout
Denmark Proper being generally designated by the names of the proprietors
only, and this designation being liable to change from day to day, the traveller
will do best to consult the postilion, who will generally be able to point out
the best and most-frequented inn in the town.
At the Hotel Royal and the other best houses in Copenhagen, and at all
the inns in the country towns, the traveller, upon application to the landlord,
will be put in the way of viewing the objects most worthy of his attention.
6. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF DENMARK.
Dominions. Shorn of her former greatness, the territories of Denmark
now comprise the peninsula of Jutland, with the adjoining Duchies of Sleswig
and Holstein (including Lauenburg), the large Islands of Zealand (upon which
and the small Island of Amak, Copenhagen is built), Funen, Laaland, and
several others at the entrance of the Baltic, besides Bornholm off the S.E.
coast of Sweden. Also the Faroe Islands, Iceland, some settlements on the
coast of Greenland, Santa Cruz in the West Indies, &c. , &c. The extreme
length of the Danish peninsula, from the Elbe at Altona to the most northern
point of Jutland, is about 300 English miles; its greatest width about 100
miles. Its surface consists of flat and slightly-undulating ground, forming,
with the exception of Holland, the lowest part of the great plain of Northern
Germany. The soil is frequently sandy and marshy, producing fine pasturage
and abundant crops of the coarser descriptions of grain.
The Riven of Denmark are small. The Eider, in Holstein, is one of the
largest, and is connected with the Baltic by a canal ; thus enabling small
vessels from the Elbe and North Sea to cross the peninsula and enter the Baltic
without encountering the long and dangerous navigation round Jutland. The
bays and lakes are very numerous : all the fjords, or inlets of the sea, are on
Denmark.
the side of the Baltic, their mouths towards the east ; but almost all the rivers
and drainage of the country run to the west into the German Ocean,
even from springs and bogs close to the Baltic.Laing's Denmark and the
Duchies, p. 218. The water which divides the Island of Funen from the
coast of Sleswig is called the Little Belt; and that which again separates
Funen from the Island of Zealand, the Great Belt. The narrow entrance to
the Baltic, between the northern part of Zealand at Elsineur and the coast of
Sweden, is called the Sound. The sea lying between Jutland and Sweden
to the north of Zealand is known as the Cattegat.
The Geology of Denmark appears not to have been thoroughly ascertained.
As far as it is at present known, it contains neither primitive nor transition
rocks ; the only secondary deposits are Weald clay and the various members
of the Chalk formation, both of which are generally covered with tertiary
soils, which in their turn are as deeply covered with diluvium of sand and
calcareous loam, which latter are occasionally concealed by newer alluvial
deposits. The peninsula of Jutland is a vast bank of sand, gravel, waterworn-stones, and transported rounded blocks of granite of all sizes, covered
with a bed of clay and vegetable earth. It has been formed or thrown up by
the ocean, and defends now from its fury a large portion of Northern Europe.
These boulders are almost all of granite, grey and red perhaps in equal num
bers. The usual theory is that they have been transported on fields of ice or
glaciers, and deposited at the bottom of the ocean, which has subsequently been
elevated above the water. But besides those lying on the sand and gravel,
others are also found on peat earth, consisting of decayed leaves and other
vegetable matter. It seems but just to conclude that these boulders must
have been deposited after the formation of the vegetable earth, which must of
necessity have been formed after the elevation of the peninsula from the bottom
of the sea. See Laing, p. 217.
Natural Features of the Country. Denmark presents a very different
character from that of the other two Scandinavian kingdoms. Here the dark
pine and stately fir are superseded by the verdant beech and knotted oak , the
rugged mountain steep and abrupt precipice by the soft undulations of hill and
valley ; and the waters which in Sweden and Norway rush along in foaming
Elv or roaring Fos here flow quietly in limpid streamlets, or are gathered in
mirror-like lakes, which reflect the smiling and fertile landscapes on their
banks.
Heaths.The Danish peninsula however offers, besides these features, others
of a less idyllic character ; for while the eastern side, with its richly-indented
coast, its wood-clad hills and fertile valleys, intersected by lakes, rivulets, and
fjords, forms one of the most beautiful parts of Denmark, the middle tract
presents to the eye nothing but an immeasurable extent of naked heath and
dark moorlands, with only here and there a farmstead surrounded by a few
patches of cultivated ground, rising like an oasis in the midst of the desert.
Denmark.
This dreary tract is now the chief place of resort of the remnants of the
gipsy race which still exist in Denmark, and whose wretched vagabond life
lias acquired for them the appellation of Kjeeltringer (rascals), by which, in
these localities, they are more frequently named than by that of Tartar, which
is, however, still in use, and indicates their Asiatic origin. Their dark com
plexion, raven hair, fiery black eyes, their laziness, their extreme irritability
of temper and violent passions, also prove them to be a distinct race from the
provident, hard-working, and cautious Jutland peasant, who regards them with
abhorrence and contempt. In summer they travel about in gangs, getting a
livelihood by the usual resources of gipsy tribes, by tinkering, fortune-telling,
and thieving, making the wild heather their bed, and the rugged moorlands
their place of refuge against the persecutions of their more civilized brethren,
whose laws visit their trespasses, though they do nothing to retrieve them from
their wild and depredatory habits. The severity of winter, however, some
times drives the Kjceltringer into closer contact with the peasantry, whose
poverty, lured by the very low wages which they can offer these poor outcasts,
and whose fears, worked upon by their threats, induce them to take these
notorious characters into their service. "With the return of summer, however,
the gipsy throws off the trammels of regular habits, and takes again to the
moors. In Denmark, as elsewhere, these Asiatic nomades are gradually dis
appearing, and, though they exist in sufficient numbers to give a peculiar
colouring to this locality, the statistics of the country take no notice of their
existence.
Forests. In Zealand, as well as the east side of Jutland, some of the forests
and woods are of great extent. They are chiefly of beech and oak, and
abound in most picturesque glades and lovely woodland scenery. The forests
are believed to be much the same now as in the 1 7th century : beech pre
dominating. A curious document exists, which states that when General
Wrangel and the Swedes besieged Banders in the Thirty Years' War, 71,000
beech, 49,000 oak, 131 birch, were cut down. In the ancient forests, how
ever, there were no beech. Mr. Vaupell, a Danish gentleman, has examined
many of the bogs of East Jutland, of North Zealand, Fionia, Scania, and the
west of Sleswig, and found no remains of beech whatever ; while oak, birch,
and Scotch fir remains exist in prodigious quantities. He therefore considers
the ancient forests of Denmark to have been a mixture of pines and deciduous
trees. In the forests, as they now exist, beech is the dominant tree. His
explanation of the substitution of beech for all other trees is, that the soil
formerly was too wet for beech : that now from various causes it has dried
considerably. That beech masts were introduced ; beech trees sprang up and
throve ; and, the soil being suitable to them, by their more rapid growth they
overtopped and ousted all others.
Sandhills. On the western coast of Jutland and Sleswig the sands of the
o:ean have usurped the territory once occupied by a thriving peasantry. From
Denmark.
'J
the promontory of the Skaw down almost to the confines of Sleswig, this
extensive coast is covered with dunes or sandhills, the number of which every
rising tide increases, every wind carries further inward, and which give to this
whole tract of country a character of desolation that can scarcely he surpassed.
In some places the sandhills rise to the height of 200 feet above the surface
of the sea, and, seen from a distance, bear the appearance of snow-capped
cliffs. Those nearest the coast are covered with a species of grass, which,
always struggling upwards, braves the choking sands, and by aid of which the
inhabitants of these dreary regions endeavour to combat and to arrest the pro
gress of their great enemy. As yet, however, every endeavour has been
vain; slowly but surely the spirit of desolation moves forward, wrapping
field and meadow, wood and heath, farmstead and village, in its destructive
embrace.
In the shelter of the sand mountains, or miler, as they are called in the lan
guage of the country, are built the habitations of the coast-dwellers, who seem
perfectly heedless of the dangers that threaten them from the unstable
character of the soil. It is not, however, unusual for the traveller returning
to the west coast of Jutland, after some years' absence, to find that, though
the character of the country is the same, the locality of the different features
has changed, and that, where once stood the hospitable roof that gave him
shelter, now rises the miler which he has ascended in order to reconnoitre the
country.
As if to warn mariners from its desolate shores, the coast is seawards girt
with a triple row of sandbanks and reefs, which have but too often proved
fatal to the imprudent navigator, who seeks in vain along its whole extent a
safe place of anchorage. Yet it is on the ocean that the natives are thrown for
means of subsistence, and the dangers and difficulties they have to contend with
only serve to strengthen the courage and energies of this hardy race, who, not
content with the vocation of fishermen and pilots, for which their position so
well qualifies them, carry their love of enterprise so far as very often to enter
into commercial intercourse with Norway by means of large fiat-bottomed boats,
the only craft which can with safety navigate these waters.
Islands on the western coast. The sea has gained very considerably on all
this coast ; so much so, that a tradition exists amongst the people that it for
merly joined Scotland. The violence of the sea has changed the main land
into islands, and from time to time has again riven these, and buried whole
villages with their inhabitants. Year after year are new portions rent away,
and in half a century's time there will probably be nothing here but sea. The
Halligs, upon the coast of Sleswig, are now only low islets covered with a dark
turf, upon which a few flocks graze. Oland still contains a small town around
which the sea rises, and it lies like a wreck in the ocean. Ships are often
stranded here, having mistaken the lights. In 1825, a tempestuous tide swept
off men and houses. The people sat for days and nights half naked on the
b 3
10
A succinct account of denmakk.
Denmark,
roofs, till these again gave way ; and such was the violence of the sea, that
neither from Fcihr or the main land could help be sent them for a long time.
Yet the inhabitants of the Halligs are attached to their little home, and witli
all its dangers prefer it to the main land. In the summer all the men generally
go out on long voyages, leaving the island in charge of the women. The girls
are pretty, and dress in a sort of oriental fashion. Their faces are half con
cealed, and beneath the stripes of linen which lie upon the head is placed a
Greek fez, around which the hair is wound in plaits. These people trace their
descent from the Greeks.
At low water the sea recedes from between the islands of Fcihr and Amrom,
and the sands may then be crossed ; but great care is requisite to prevent
accidents.
For marine painters this western coast abounds in subjects alike novel and
picturesque.
Marshes. South of Jutland the western coast of the peninsula assumes
a very different character. Here marsh lands, with their rich pastures and
golden harvests, take the place of the barren sandhills. These marsh lands
ore divided, according to their position, into coast marsh, island marsh, and
river marsh, and according to their quality into sand marsh and fat marsh.
The N. Sleswig marshes belong mostly to the former class, and are only pro
tected from the inroads of the ocean by a low wall of sand called Vren.
Being thus liable to frequent inundations, these lauds, denominated Halligs,
are not cultivated, but only used as pasture lands. The S. Sleswig marshes,
as well as the Holstein marshes, are, on the contrary, protected by strong
dykes, and present many peculiar and interesting features..
The earliest settlers on these lands usually erected their habitations on the
most elevated and the safest spots, called Warfths, and cultivated the ground
immediately surrounding them. By degrees, however, as the value of the
lands became more fully appreciated, endeavours were made to withdraw the
lower marshes from the dominion of the ocean, and the inhabitants of the
Warftlis joined together to secure their property from the regularly-occurring
influences of the tide, as well as from the more violent inroads of occasional
tempests. This was the origin of the so-called Ring Dykes, or Summer Dykes.
At a later period, and particularly after the dreadful flood of 1634, the Warfth
dwellers bethought them of building higher and stronger dykes, which should
be able to resist even the winter storms, and by degrees, as fresh alluvium
was deposited, new dykes were erected to protect the newly-acquired territory.
The country thus gradually assumed the aspect it now bears, of a large extent
of rich pasture lands and well-cultivated fields, separated at irregular intervals
by high rampart-like walls.
The area inclosed within two rows of dykes is called Kog or Koug.
As indemnification for the expenses incurred in the erection of dykes, it is
not uncommon to grant privileges and immunities to the inhabitants of the
Denmark.
a succinct account of Denmark.
11
Kogs, which are in such cases called privileged Kogs. An association of

several Kogs for the erection and maintenance of dykes, is called Deich
band.
The most important dykes resemble the ramparts that snrronnd a stronglyfortified town, and rise to the height of 22 feet above high-water mark. The
side that turns towards land is rather steep, but the face at the water-side is
made very sloping, in order to offer greater resistance to the waves, and to the
large blocks of ice which assail them in winter.
The lower and more ancient embankments have in fact Income superfluous
as such, since the erection of the higher and more advanced dykes, but they
are still useful as means of communication between the different Kogs, as
throughout the marshes, and particularly those of Sleswig, the tops or combs
of the dykes, which are often from 18 to 20 feet broad, serve as roads, the
lower grounds being in autumn, winter, and spring almost impassable from the
extreme humidity of the soil, to remedy which the ground is intersected by
canals and wide ditches, which still further obstruct the passage. These
obstructions are, however, most felt by strangers, for the natives navigate the
canals and ditches in small boats, or leap across them by the aid of long poles,
with which they are always provided.
Since the Act was passed allowing the free importation of foreign cattle into
England, thousands bred upon these marshes have been sent there ; and, as they
are of the best description to be had out of England, the demand for them is
so great, that a steamer rarely leaves Hamburg without conveying con
siderable numbers, much to the annoyance and discomfort of the crew and
passengers.
Climate.Notwithstanding its northern situation, the climate of Denmark
is not very rigorous. The flatness of the country and the immediate neigh
bourhood of the sea so greatly moderate the cold in winter, that the average
number of degrees taken at Copenhagen within 39 years does not exceed 40
Reaumur. The same causes render the climate humid, but the weather in
summer and autumn is generally steady and delightful, and the atmospheric
effects, particularly at sunset, are at times splendid.
Royal Family. The existing dynasty, the Oldenburg, commenced 28th
December, 1448. The present king, Frederick VII., was born 6th October,
1808, and ascended the throne upon the death of his father, Christian VIII.,
on 20th January, 1848. The king is the only surviving issue of his father ;
he lias been twice married and divorced, without issue ; his last divorce was
30th September, 1846 : in August, 1850, he contracted a morganatic marriage
with Louise Christine, Countess Danner. He has no children. The pre
sent crown prince, or heir presumptive, is Prince Ferdinand, the uncle of the
king, born 22nd November, 1792. Frederick VII., on coming to the throne,
issued a proclamation, declaring his intention to follow his father's example in
the government of his dominions, as well as to complete his design of giving
13
HISTORICAL NOTICK.
Denmark.
new institutions to the country. This pledge, it will subsequently appear, he

lost no time in redeeming.
The Population, according to the last census of 1855, was 2,468,648 ; in
addition to this are the Faroe Islands, 8,651, and Iceland, 64,603 ; total,
2,541,902; an increase of 346,952 since 1840. In addition, the colonial
population of Denmark is estimated at about 49, 500.
Finance.The budget of 1857 gives the receipts at 16,493,075 rigsbank
dollars, about 1,855,470/. Eng. ; the payments at 17,437,948 r. d. ; about
1,961,769?. Eng. The national debt is about 117,000,000 r. d.; or
18,162,500/.
Army. The peace establishment comprises 25,000 rank and file, of all
arms ; during war 75,169.
The Navy comprises 4 ships of the line, 6 frigates, 67 gunboats, 11
steamers, and 31 smaller craft ; in all 119 sail, tarrying 913 guns.
7. HISTORICAL NOTICE.
The historical recollections connected with Denmark are of high antiquity
and deep interest. The peninsula (now comprising Jutland and the Duchies
of Sleswig and Holstein) was the cradle of the formidable Cimbri, who, with
other Baltic tribes, made such fearful ravages in France and Spain, and
defeated several Roman armies, but were themselves finally routed by Marius.
Whether they were ancestors of the Jutes and Angli, who centuries afterwards
invaded England, or whether they were Celts by race, is a doubtful point.
Some, who are of the latter opinion, believe them to have been the Cimmerii,
of whom Herodotus relates, that they were expelled from the Crimea by the
Scythians, that they sojourned some time in Jutland under the name of Cimbri,
and finally appeared as the Cymry in Wales. Ethnology, however, that is
based on a similarity of names, is of little value ; and equally good authorities
on the other side say that the name " Cimbri " is derived from the old German
root of the modern Danish word Kjcemper, a warrior, our champion. In like
manner the Jleruli, a tribe frequently mentioned in the contests of Rome with
the barbarians, are said to have derived their name from the old form of ha-r,
a host, an army, and that their name meant nothing more than " army-men."
Divided into small kingdoms, the early history of Denmark is confused and un
certain.
Christianity was gradually introduced into Denmark during the 8th and 9th
centuries. Generations passed away before the efforts of the early AngloSaxon missionaries were crowned with complete success, and the Pagan worship
of Thor and Odin finally eradicated. For ages the Danes remained Roman
Catholics ; but, subsequently, the Lutheran religion was zealously embraced
by them, and still remains the established religion of the country.
During the 11th century the history of Denmark is most intimately con
nected with England. After centuries of predatory incursions there, in 1013
Denmark.
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
13
all England wa3 finally subdued, and Sweyn I. , of Denmark, became likewise
King of England, in which dignity he was succeeded by Canute the Great and
some of his descendants. In 1028 Canute was also acknowledged King of
Norway. The most brilliant period of Danish history thus dates from the
early part of the 11th century, to the reign of Valdemar II., in 1223, at
which time Denmark had attained the summit of her glory. During this
period Holstein, Lauenburg, Mecklenburg, Riigen, Pomerania, Esthonia,
Carelia, and part of Prussia were subjected to the Danish sway, and in Den
mark laws were promulgated which still form the basis of the national legis
lation.
But the decline of Denmark's power was as rapid as it was remarkable. By
an act of injustice, Valdemar II. had incurred the vengeance of one of his
subjects, Henry, count of Schwerin, who, in 1223, surprised the king and his
eldest son in the night while encamped in the wood after a hard day's hunting,
conveyed them on board a vessel, and confined them in the strong castle of
Schwerin in Mecklenburg. All Europe was surprised at this daring act, but
no force was put in motion for their rescue, and the king remained a prisoner
during three yearsthe greatest monarch of the North treated like a common
felon. At length, in 1226, the menaces of the Pope, aided by bribes and an
enormous ransom, procured Valdemar's release. But his long imprisonment
had been fatal to the interests of the Danish crown. The recent conquests
had reasserted their independence, and several of her finest provinces which
had revolted during that period were never again brought beneath the sway
of the Danish sceptre. The efforts made by Valdemar to recover his losses by
the sword were as fruitless as they were ruinous, and led to unparalleled
disasters for Denmark.
The introduction of the feudal system during the 12th and 13th centuries
also prepared the way to much future evil for the country, by laying the foun
dations of that power of the nobles and the clergy, which soon overwhelmed
every other in the State, and made it a prey to civil wars.
Upon failure of issue male in 1387, Margaret succeeded to the thrones of
Denmark and Norway, which thenceforth remained united down to the 19th
century. In 1389, aided by the discontented nobles, Margaret conquered the
Swedish king, and from that period, for upwards of a century, the 3 Scandi
navian kingdoms were subject to the same sceptre. But this union, which
was far from allaying the hostility with which the three countries regarded
each other, only weakened Denmark by the constant struggles in which she
was engaged in order to maintain the authority of her kings in Norway and
Sweden.
It is a singular fact, that at the death of Christopher III., in 1148, for up
wards of a century no monarch of Denmark left male issue.
At the death of Christopher III., a German dynasty (the Oldenburg) was
established on the throne of Denmark in the person of Christian I. ; on which
UISTORICAL KOTICE.
Denmark.
occasion the Duchy of Sleswig was reunited with, and the Duchy of Holstein
annexed to, the Danish crown. The German elements introduced along with
the German dynasty further aggravated the unfortunate position of the
peasantry, the bulk of the population, and formerly the pride and strength of
the country, but who were by this time reduced, by the illegal encroachments
of the nobility, to a state of pradial servitude. Yet nowhere, except in a
part of Sleswig, did the Danish nationality ever succumb to the German.
Christian II. , the third king of the Oldenburg dynasty, made an attempt to
throw off the yoke that weighed alike on king and people, but by the violence
of his measures he lost his crown, and dissevered for ever the union between
Denmark and Sweden. Under his immediate successors the power of the
nobles went on increasing, until in 1660 the joint efforts of the king, Frederick
III., the clergy (who since the Reformation had become alienated from the
nobles), and the burghers, succeeded in breaking it for ever, by establishing
the hereditary succession to the crown. The power wrested from the nobles
was not, however, justly distributed among the different estates of the realm,
but was allowed to centre entirely in the crown ; and from that period Den
mark became an absolute monarchy, the States having by a solemn Act of 10th
January, 1661, declared that the king was invested for ever with absolute
power ! The people who thus voluntarily legalized their own slavery were
soon trampled upon, as they deserved to be, by their royal task-masters. But
at length the spirit of the times, and the awakening recollection of the valiant
deeds of their heroic ancestors of the 11th and 12th centuries, roused the
people to a proper sense of their position and a determination to re-establish
their liberty.
There have been several intermarriages between the royal families of Den
mark and England ; amongst these are James III. of Scotland, who married
Margaret, daughter of Christian I. in 1-469 ; on which occasion the Orkney
and Shetland Isles were giyen in pledge for part of the princess's dowry, which
never being paid, these islands have ever since remained with the Scottish
crown. James VI. of Scotland and I. of England married Anne, daughter of
Frederick II. and mother of Charles I. of England. And in later years,
Matilda, sister of George III. , was married to Christian VII.
Denmark, though much curtailed in power and extent, nevertheless main
tained a certain rank among the nations of Europe until 1807, when her fleet
and commerce were destroyed 'by the English, and in 1814 Norway was
arbitrarily wrested from her to be given to her ancient rival, Sweden. This
is the culminating point in the history of Denmark's decline ; but the moment
of her deepest degradation was at the same time the moment of the re
awakening of the national spirit. The people began to seek, in the glory of
the past, consolations for the humiliations of the present. The heroism, the
energies, the enterprising spirit of ancient Scandinavia, which, within three
separate States, comprised a people that felt itself as one, became the never
Denmark.
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
16
ceasing theme of the poet's song, and thoughts and feelings in consonance with
those by-gone times began to germinate in the living generation. These
thoughts and feelings, which have been at a later period awakened in the two
other Scandinavian countries also, have gone on slowly developing themselves,
and are now expressed in open action by those parties in the three countries
which have made Scandinavian union their watchword, and who foresee in
such a union (which they understand in a moral and intellectual, not in a
political sense) a new era in the history of the North.
In 1831 provincial states were instituted by the then reigning king, Frede
rick VI., to deliberate upon public matters, but were merely empowered to
advise the crown, which retains unimpaired the power of rejecting the pro
posals made, however great the majority for them. This mere semblance of
popular government, however, sufficed to give a great impetus to public spirit
in Denmark.
The New Constitution. The present king, Frederick VII., lost no time in
redeeming the pledge he gave to his people on coming to the throne. On the
28th January, 1848, he issued a decree, by which " Common States" for the
whole kingdom of Denmark Proper, and the Duchies of Holstein and Sleswig,
were to be elected and assembled at fixed periods, during the royal pleasure,
alternately in Denmark and the two Duchies. The number of delegates was
fixed at fifty-two, and of these twenty-six were to be elected for Denmark, by
the deputies of the provincial estates, in such manner that all classes should
be represented. And the Duchies were to be in like manner represented by
twenty-six delegates ; but, as regards them, the king reserved to himself the
powers of nominating eight persons to be added to the delegates, four from
each Duchy. The debates to be conducted in Danish or German, at discretion,
and the minutes of them to be kept in both languages. The rights given to
the Common States by this decree appear to be somewhat ambiguous, except as
to matters of finance, over which they were to have absolute control ; and
that they were also to have decisive votes upon any proposed new laws touching
the common interests of the Kingdom and Duchies. The organization of the
provincial states to remain unchanged.
This constitution, however, failed to satisfy the Holsteiners, and the revolu
tionary storm, which had been raging in Europe, descended upon the two
Duchies. The Duke of Augustenburg, who, in the event of the demise of the
present King of Denmark withoiit heirs male, was the supposed legal successor
to the Duchy of Holstein, aided, no doubt, secretly by Prussia, was one of the
main instigators of the movement. The people rose : a provisional Government
was established at Kiel. The garrison at Rendsburg was induced, by a tale of
the King of Denmark's being a prisoner of the democratic party in Copen
hagen, to surrender that fortress to them. Volunteers from Germany, mad at
that time with the idea of uniting all the German-speaking populations into
one great German empire, flocked to the standard of rebellion. The war
lasted nearly three years, with varying fortune, till in 1851 the battle of Idstedt
16
pkoductive industry, TEorLE, etc.
Denmark.
was fought, when 28, 000 Danes met and completely defeated the Germanizing
army of about equal numbers. The war was morally decided by this.
Shortly afterwards, Austria, as head of the German Bund, sent a force across
to Hamburg to prevent further warfare ; and the cause expired as it was born
in the hands of interested leaders, or exhausted enthusiasts wearied ' of agitation. No real enthusiasm was ever excited among the mass of the people, nor
did the majority, except in one or two places, ever wish to throw off their
allegiance to Denmark.
By a treaty of 1727, England, France, and Russia guaranteed the Duchy of
Sleswig to the King of Denmark. In 1848, Russia, keenly alive to the policy
of preventing the establishment of a new naval power in the Baltic, which the
possession of the port of Kiel would have given to the victorious insurgents,
who were nothing more than the puppets of Prussia, sent a fleet to the bay of
Kiel to watch over her interests. England, though bound by treaty, remained
quiet, confining her efforts to useless negotiations.
The Danish Government, when peace was restored, treated the insurgents
with great lenity ; and the people of the Duchies, with the exception of some
few enthusiastic Germanizers, are apparently well reconciled to the present
state of things.
8. PRODUCTIVE INDUSTRY.
Agriculture is now the great source of national prosperity in Denmark.
Large tracts of land are annually being brought into cultivation, and the
breeding of cattle has increased to a vast extent within these few years.
The Fisheries are extensive, and the terrific seas to which the men are ex
posed render them most hardy and admirable seamen. A considerable number
of ships are engaged in the whale fishery. Dwarf varieties of cod, haddock,
and whiting are caught in the Baltic. The stromming, a species of herring,
as large as a sprat, are caught in great quantities, and smoked or salted, form
an important branch of export trade. There are no lobsters, and though
salmon are caught in the rivers of the opposite coast of Sweden, there are
none in Denmark.
The Commerce of Denmark is in a thriving state, though chiefly confined
to the export of her own agricultural produce, and imports for home con
sumption.
The Manufactures are principally those of the flax and wool of the country,
woven in a coarse form for domestic use.
9. THE PEOPLE. THE PEASANTRY. PUBLIC INSTRUCTION.
The Danes are a kind-hearted, honest, and simple-minded race. The
women are generally very fair and good-looking, the mei less so ; the peasants,
in particular, even after having gone through the process of military drilling,
are clumsy and ungainly in appearance. This varies, however, according to
the different localities. In the intellectual world the Danes have always main
tained an honourable position : in science, in literature, and in art, they call
Denmark.
PUBLIC INSTRUCTION.
J7
boast of names worthy of being ranked with the best of other countries, and
nowhere has more been done for popular education.
The Peasantry. Denmark being pre-eminently an agricultural country, the
peasants form the mass of the population, and, being by their position ex
cluded from all foreign influences, most decidedly represent the national
character in its greatest purity from foreign alloy. Long years of thraldom
have, however, left their traces in the character of the Danish peasant, but
these are rapidly disappearing ; his voice is again heard in the councils of his
country, and it may be hoped that he will soon in intellectual cultivation also
maintain a worthy position by the side of the other classes of the community.
In 1804 the last remnant of bondage was abolished, and the Government, not
content with having given liberty to the peasants, passed many measures to
facilitate their becoming independent proprietors. These measures were fol
lowed with rapid success, but the Government at a later period, changing its
politics, considered it wiser to refrain from all interference ; of late, however,
the popular party in Denmark is very much agitating the question. The
peasants either hold their property in fee-simple, or as tenants for life.*
Below these there is another class of peasants, the so-called Huusmand, who
are equivalent to the agricultural day labourers of England, but more fortunate
than these, as each family has a house, and the greater number some ground
attached to it. This house and grounds they either hold as tenants, in which
ease the rent paid is in labour, or as independent proprietors.
Public Instruction. There are in Denmark five seminaries for the education
of country Schoolmasters ; every parish has one or more village schools, to
which the peasants are bound to send their children, and it is at this day an
unusual thing to meet with a Danish peasant, however poor, who cannot read
and write. Besides this, confirmation and the preliminary public examina
tion, which are obligatory, and for which the children are prepared by six
months' previous instruction from the parish clergyman, in a most efficient
manner ensures religious instruction to every Danish subject. By connecting
the functions of parish clerk and schoolmaster, and by allotting to them a
certain portion of glebe lands and other means of revenue, the position of the
village schoolmasters in Denmark has been made very tolerable, though much
yet remains to be done in that respect. They are generally a highly respect
able class of men and well qualified for their duties.
In the most important towns are established Latin schools, at which the
scholars receive, at a very moderate charge, a classical education, and are
prepared for the universities, of which there are two, one in Copenhagen, and
the other in Kiel. Besides these every town has its burgher schools, popular
schools, and charity schools.
* The life of the wife as well as the husband. If the children of the deceased wish to
have the occupation after their parents, their claims are to be preferred.
18
ROUTE 1.LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY SEA. Denmark.
ROUTES THROUGH DENMARK.

ROUTE I.
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY HAMBURG,
KIEL, AND KoRSiiR.
Distance about 660 Eng. miles. In
addition to this route there are 5
othersviz. by Ostend, Route 2 ; Ant
werp, Route 3 ; Rotterdam, Route 4 ;
Tiinning, Route 13; and direct to
Copenhagen by the St. Petersburg
steamer from London, which sails
from off East Lane Stairs once every
week during the season. Also between
Hull and Hamburg steamers run 4
times a week. Steamboats leave Lon
don and Hamburg as early every Wed
nesday and Saturday morning as the
tide serves, so that passengers should
go on board the night before. The
average passage is about 55 hours,
but it sometimes occupies only 48, at
others 70 or 80. Passengers leaving
London on the Wednesday or Satur
day usually arrive at Hamburg in the
forenoon of the following Friday and
Monday. In summer this voyage is
often very pleasant, but in autumn
and winter it becomes very rough
and disagreeable. These steamers are
frequently very crowded and un
comfortable. Berths should therefore
be secured beforehand. Fare, Chief
Cabin 21., exclusive of provisions.
About 25 miles from the mouth of
the Elbe lies the island of Heligoland
(Holyland), so named from the
temple of Hertha (Earth), the god
dess worshipped by the ancient
Saxons, which stood on it. It was
ceded to Great Britain in 1807, and
some fortifications are raised on it.
Its population amounts to 2230. At
the time when Napoleon had ex
cluded England from the Continent,
it was important as a war station ;
and, from its situation near the
mouths of the rivers Elbe and Weser,
it then became a considerable smug

gling dep6t. Its male inhabitants
are chiefly fishermen, sailors, and
pilots. The sea is fast consuming its
shores, and in the course of time will,
in all probability, leave nothing be
hind but a sand-bank : it is now
about 2 miles in circumference. He
ligoland is much resorted to for its
admirable sea-bathing.
(1. bank.) At the mouth of the
Elbe stands the lighthouse and town
of Cuxhaven, on a small angle of
territory belonging to Hamburg.
Vessels lie at anchor off this place,
waiting for favourable winds. It is
a watering-place frequented by the
inhabitants of Hamburg for sea
bathing. In winter, when the Elbe
is frozen over, it is necessary to pro
ceed from Hamburg by land to meet
the steamers at Cuxhaven, a tedious
and expensive journey, crossing the
Elbe to Haarburg, and descending its
1. bank.
Beyond Cuxhaven, the left bank of
the Elbe belongs to Hanover ; it is
for the most part flat and uninterest
ing. The only towns on this side are
Stade, and Harburg. The former is
an unimportant place, and only cele
brated in connection with the toll
(called "Stade dues") claimed by
Hanover of all vessels passing this
part of the Elbe, and which were
formerly levied in the most oppres
sive manner. Here may be seen the
solitary little ship of war, which
comprises the Hanoverian royal navy.
Harburg is opposite Hamburg, and
is the terminus of the railway to
Hanover and Cologne.
The land on the rt. bank is the
territory of Holstein, belonging to
Denmark ; it rises in gentle slopes,
covered, for some distance below
Hamburg, with wood, interspersed
Denmark.
route 1.Hamburg.inks, etc.
with handsome villas and gardens

belonging to opulent merchants. On
this side lies the small town of
Gliiekstadt, with 6000 inhabitants,
now connected with Altona by rail
way. Higher up is passed the little
fishing village of Slankenesc, with its
houses scattered along the slope and
among the trees one above another.
Here most of the leading bankers
and merchants of Hamburg have their
villas, some of which are beautiful,
and command noble views of vast
extent over the Elbe above Hamburg
and the Hanoverian territory.
Beyond Blankenese is the town of
Altona, which joins Hamburg, and
from the liver seems to form part of it,
though within the Danish territory.
A handsome new quay has been
constructed at Hamburg along the
Elbe, and the harbour has been
deepened, so that if the tide be
favourable the steamers may lie so
close up to the landing-place, that
the passengers may step from the
deck on shore, but it is more usual to
embark and disembark in boats ; the
fares are regulated by a tariff, each
package of luggage being paid for in
addition to the passage-money.
The porters of the landing-place
have the exclusive privilege of landing
the passengers' luggage, and are en
titled to a small fee for each package.
They are very honest, and may safely
be trusted to convey luggage to any
part of the city. Each man has his
No. , and their charges are regulated
by a tariff. But the cheapest plan
is to hire a droski. Passports are
not required on landing, the baggage
is not taken to the custom-house, nor
is it searched, unless it appears to
contain merchandise.
Hackney carriages (here called droskis) are always waiting at the landingplace, which is distant about 10 mi
nutes' walk from the best hotels.
Unless engaged by the hour, the
drivers are entitled to charge a
separate fare for each house they
stop at ; this should be attended to,

as in summer it is not an uncommon
occurrence to find all the principal
hotels quite full.
The terminus of the Kiel Railway
is not in Hamburg, but at Altona.
Those intending to take that route,
who may be desirous of avoiding the
bustle and expense of Hamburg, liad
better proceed direct to Altona, where
the inns are tolerably good, and not
far from the station. Passports are
not demanded, nor is luggage searched
on entering this part of the Danish
territory.
Hamburg. Inns : All the best are
upon the Jungfernstieg, and are built
upon 3 sides of the small lake the
Alster. Those on the S.W. and S.E.
sides are preferable. The former
comprises Streits, very comfortable,
and, by the English, considered the
best. The landlady is English.
Charges, bed, and table-d'h5te din
ner, 24 sch. each, 4 bottle of wine
16 sch., breakfast 12 sch. These are
about the average charges of the other
good houses. It is customary to give
a small gratuity to the servants and
porter. The Hotel de Russie, Vic
toria Hotel, Stadt Paris, Kronprinzen,
and Stadt Petersburg. Those on the
S. E. are the Belvedere, very comfort
able and great personal attention on
the part of the landlord to his guests.
Table d'hftte at 3 o'clock ; charges
same as at Streits. Hotel de 1' Eu
rope, one of the largest hotels in
Europe, with a first-rate table d'h6te,
and the Alster. The houses on this
side have a great advantage over
the others in summer, being much
cooler and quieter. All the hotels
above enumerated are quite new,
having been built since the fire, and
nowhere in the world can such a
number of first-rate houses be seen in
so small a space. The Alter Stadt
London, on the N.W. side, is an old
house, and not to be recommended.
A Porter is stationed at the entrance
of all the best hotels. He keeps the
HOUTE 1.
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN.
City Directory, generally speaks Eng

lish, and is the best person to apply
to for all kinds of information about
the town, railroad, steamers, &c.
Artist* will find the JSaumliaus a
cheap inn ; it is near the harbour,
and the most picturesque part of the
town. On the south side of the
Adolphus Hatz, opposite the Biirse,
there are several good commercial
hotels ; also a large Cafe, where ex
cellent German beer may be had, and
most of the European journals seen.
There are also several good cafes upon
the Alster.
Droskis ply for hire in all the prin
cipal thoroughfares of the town.
They are good and cheap. Any
distance within the town costs about
8rf., and if hired by the hour the
charge is Is. 6d. Omnibuses ply
through the town in various direc
tions, to Altona and RainvilUs
Gardens.
HAMBURG MONET.
Accounts are kept in marks courant
and schillings, except banking ac
counts, which are kept in marks
banco, which, as well as the rix
dollar, are imaginary coins, of the
respective values of Is. &%d. and
is. Id. The mark banco is to the
mark courant as 10 to 20. 16 schil
lings make 1 mark.
The large silver money most com
mon here is the piece of dollar,
kassenyeld, worth 31 sch. courant, or
2 marks less 1 sch. The Prussian
dollar is very common also : worth
about 3 shillings Eng. or 2 marks,
8 sch. In addition to the smaller
copper the current cuius are
English,
s. d.
Copper 1 Schilling nearly 0 1
Silver 4 Schillings 0 3J
8
0 7
,, 1 Mark courant 1 24
,, Double Mark . 2 5
All these coins are so much worn,
and in such a wretched state, that
Denmark-.
care is required in taking them :

even the natives are often puzzled to
ascertain what they are. Many of
them are almost valueless out of
Hamburg.
The landlords at the hotels will
generally change English money.
The regular money-changers are most
extortionate. The English sov. usually
realizes 16 marks, 12 sch.
For those who are en route for
Denmark or Norway, the paper dol
lar of those countries in small amounts
is the best money to purchase here.
In Copenhagen and Christiania the
paper money of each country is freely
taken, and without any loss. Those
bound for Sweden had better take
Swedish dollars in paper, and for
small amounts. In any case, as it
costs more here, only so much foreign
money should be purchased as the
traveller may require to reach his
destination in the first instance.
Hamburg is situated about 80 m.
from the mouth of the Elbe, at the
junction of a small stream called the
Alster with the Elbe. The popula
tion of the city and its adjacent ter
ritory is calculated at about 216,800.
The revenue for 1857 was calculated
at 9,598,700 marks courant. The
expenditure at 7,757,780. The na
tional debt is 03,941,265 marks
courant, of which nearly 30,000,000
were incurred by the great fire of
1842.
Hamburg is one of the four re
maining Free Towns, and is chiefly
remarkable as the first trading seaport
of Germany. It is of great antiquity,
having been founded by Charlemagne
as a bulwark against the rude northern
tribes, by whom it was repeatedly
sacked, particularly in 1002. In
1618 it was declared a free imperial
city..
The Executive Government of the
town is rested in a council or senate,
composed of 4 burgomasters, who are
elected for life, and 4 syndics, the
latter of whom have a voice in the
Denmark,
route 1. jiambukg.NEW buildings.
senate. The person chosen must

accept the office, or quit the city, at
the same time forfeiting one-tenth
of his property. The memhers wear
a quaint garb, a black velvet cloak
and high-crowned hat. The legisla
tive power is placed in the hands of
three colleges selected from the ge
neral body of citizens.
Hamburg had formerly the misfor
tune of beiug a fortified town, and in
consequence was subject to the hor
rors of a siege by the French ; it was
twice occupied by their armies, who,
under Davoust, in 1813, exercised
the most cruel severities and atroci
ties upon the inhabitants ; many
hundreds of whom, men, women, and
children, were driven out of the town
to perish.
The old part of the town, which
escaped being burnt in 1842, is in
tersected by canals, called Fleethen
(perhaps the same word as our Fleet
ditch in London), and in this re
spect, in the antiquated appearance
of its houses, and in the number of
trees growing in its streets, bears a
resemblance to the towns of Holland.
In 1856, 5201 vessels entered the
Port. The Elbe is navigable thus far
for ships of considerable burthen,
which can enter the harbour and
transfer their cargoes in barges to the
merchants' doors, whose warehouses
and dwellings generally adjoin. There
are no docks. Much banking and
funding .business is done here ; be
sides which it is the depot for a large
part of the exports and imports of the
N. of Europe. The sugar refineries
have diminished of late.
By the dreadful fire of 1842, Ham
burg sustained a calamity unequalled
in extent except by the Fire of Lon
don, which reduced the heart of the
town to a heap of ashes. Many years
must elapse before the damage can
be repaired, and the traces of it
effaced. The conflagration broke out
in the Deichstrasse, near the Elbe, on
Thursday, May 5, from what cause is
2t
unknown, and raged until the follow

ing Sunday, in spite of all efforts to
oppose it ; spreading, until it had in
volved in destruction two sides of the
Alster Basin, levelling almost all the
buildings, public and private, over an
area of many acres, nearly in the
form of a triangle, sweeping down
1749 houses, 61 streets, besides
courts and alleys, and even crossing
the broad canal of the Alster.. The
attempts made to arrest the flames
when the engines had proved useless,
were, first, to pull down the houses ;
but in unroofing them the timbers
and rafters were laid open, and more
readily caught fire from the sparks
which lodged upon them. Artillery
was next employed to batter them
down, but the balls only made holes
in the walls, and passed through.
Finally, the plan of blowing them up
with gunpowder was resorted to ; and
this useful but dangerous task was
executed by the English engineer,
Lindley, who, fortunately for the
town, was present at the time, and
understood the proper mode of pro
ceeding. The first check was given
to the fire by blowing up the Rathhaus and Bank, in whose cellars was
deposited a vast treasure in silver
bars. The churches of St. Nicholas,
St. Peter, and St. Gertrude were
speedily consumed ; the New Ex
change, though surrounded by the
flames, escaped almost by a miracle
uninjured. The sympathy caused by
this event in all parts of the globe
was proved by the voluntary subscrip
tions raised for the sufferers, amount
ing to nearly 400, 000?., of which
England contributed 41,000i.
Hamburg has greatly profited by
the calamity in the improvements
introduced in laying out the new
buildings, the widening of streets, the
construction of sewers, and the filling
up of some of the stagnant fleeths
or canals. The plan of these im
provements has been prepared by Mr.
Lindley. Another improvement is
22
UOUTE 1.
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN.
the drainage and conversion into a

new quarter of the town of a low
marshy tract on the rt. bank of the
Elbe called Hammerbroch. It has
been intersected by canals, the water
pumped out by a steam-engine, the
surface raised 4 ft. over a space of an
English square m. by the rubbish
arising from the fire, thus turning to
account what would otherwise have
been an incumbrance ; and the whole
is being covered with streets and
warehouses.
The finest of the new buildings are
in the immediate neighbourhood of
the Alster. Many of them are of
vast extent, and have been constructed
at an enormous cost The founda
tions are mostly of granite the
superstructure brick and stucco.
Much talent and originality of design
have been displayed in the architec
ture of many of the houses in
others, the Lombard, Gothic, Floren
tine, &c. , have been freely adopted
in fact, scarcely any two buildings
are alike ; and the tout ensemble
comprises groups of domestic archi
tecture which for extent and beauty
are at present unrivalled.
The arcade near Streits Hotel is
particularly deserving of attention
for its extent, as well as its admi
rable arrangement and the beauty of
its architecture.
The Churches have little architec
tural beauty ; but several of them, in
the old parts of the town, are exceed
ingly quaint and picturesque. St.
Michael's lias one of the loftiest stee
ples in Europe, 456 feet high, about
100 feet higher than St. Paul's in
London, from which the town and the
Elbe, nearly as far as the sea, Holstein on the N. , and Hanover on the
S. , present themselves advantageously
to view. It is also the station of the
fire-watch.
An English Church has recently
been erected here with the partial aid
of the British Government
The Johanneum, on the site of the
Denmark.
ancient Dom, is a college under excel

lent professors, where a good classical
and commercial education is given
for 120 marks per annum. The town
library, consisting of about 200,000
volumes and many curious MSS. , has
been removed to this building.
The charitable institutions of Ham
burg are on a very munificent scale.
The Orphan Asylum provides for 600
children, who are received as infants,
reared, educated, and bound appren
tices to some useful trade. The Great
-ffosi'ia?(Krankenhaus), in the suburb
of St. George, is capable of contain
ing from 4000 to 5000 sick. The
yearly cost of supporting this admira
ble institution is nearly 17,000Z. Its
utility is not confined to the poor
alone, as even persons of the higher
classes resort to the hospital to avail
themselves of the advantages of the
excellent medical treatment which
they may here obtain. Such patients
are admitted as lodgers, on payment
of a sum varying from 8d. to 8s. a
day. The chapel contains a good
painting by Overbeck (a living artist),
Christ on the Mount of Olives.
The house in which Klopstoek the
poet lived 30 years, and died, is No.
27 in the Konigstrasse.
The Borse (Exchange) is perhaps
the best building of its class that
has yet been constructednot except
ing that at Paris. It is exceedingly
chaste and simple in design, and con
structed of brick and stucco. It
forms a noble hall, 48 paces by 26,
exclusive of the surrounding colon
nade, which is double at each end and
treble at the sides. A broad open
gallery runs round the hall, and com
municates with reading and refresh
ment rooms, a bank, library, and
everything else the merchants require
in the course of their business. The
Borse is also the seat of the Commercium or Board of Trade. Change com
mences at 1 o'clock, and it is quite
a sight to behold the thousands that
come pouring in from all quarters.
Denmark.
eoute 1.Hamburg.theatue, etc.
At this time the smartest and pret

tiest of the Vierlander flower girls
may be seen about the Bbrse. Their
costume is very picturesque, somewhat
resembling the Swiss. Vierland is a
small portion of the Hamburg terri
tory, bordering on the Elbe, and is
chiefly laid out as flower and marketgardens, for the supply of the city.
The costume of some of the other
peasant women of the neighbourhood
is likewise picturesque ; they are dis
tinguished by a small cap at the back
of the head, covered with gold or
silver embroidery and a gaily-deco
rated boddice. The women servants
in their marketing expeditions carry
a large long basket under the arm,
covered with a very gaudy shawl.
Funeral processions in Hamburg
are not composed of the friends of
the deceased, but of hired mourners,
called Reiten-Diener, dressed in black,
with plaited ruffs round their necks,
curled and powdered wigs, short Spa
nish cloaks, and swords.
The same persons, whose number is
limited to 16, attend at marriage fes
tivals, and form also a sort of body
guard to the magistrates. Their situa
tions were formerly purchased at a
high price, in consideration of the
perquisites and fees attached to them.
Upon the death of a burgomaster or
other person of importance in the
town, the town trumpeter, a civic
officer, blows a dirge from one of the
steeples.
Some of the merchants possess a
few good pictures, but there are no
collections of much consequence in
the town.
Rceding's Museum is a collection of
odds and ends, with some real curiosi
ties, where half an hour may be
spent when there is nothing better to
do.
The Theatre is one of the largest in
Germany, and the performances and
music generally very good. The opera
begins at 6, and usually ends before
10. The public ball-rooms in and
about the town, though not frequented

by the most respectable classes, being
often the resort of low company, de
serve to be looked at as one of the
peculiarities of the place. The best
are the Elbe Pavilion and the Schweit
zer Pavilion.
Public Amusements, in Hamburg
and the neighbourhood, are advertised
in the daily papers taken in at all the
hotels and cafes.
There is a great parade of military
and their bands here, a portion of the
regular troops of the Hans Towns
being always quartered in the city.
The numbers of the Burger Guard
are also considerable. The contin
gent of regular troops which Ham
burg is liable to furnish to the Ger
manic Confederation is 1514, and a
reserve of 433.
In summer the inhabitants appear
to work all day, and amuse themselves
throughout the night. Since the va
rious railroads connected with the
city have been opened, the influx of
strangers has become quite enormous,
and places of amusement and dissi
pation have increased in proportion.
The Jungfernstieg (Maiden's Walk)
is a broad walk, around the sides of
a basin of water formed by damming
up the small river Alster. It is the
fashionable promenade, especially re
sorted to in the summer evenings,
when the surface of the water is co
vered with gaily-painted boats. It
is flanked on 3 sides by handsome
rows of new houses, and has a broad
terrace all around its margin. At
the water-side are the two most-fre
quented cafes in the town, called pa
vilions. There are floating baths on
the Alster.
Shops. The best booksellers' and
other shop's are upon the south side
of the Jungfernstieg, and the adjoin
ing Street Neuer Wall. Many of
them are splendid establishments.
Reading Rooms. At Perthes, Besser, and Maukes', the great booksel
lers of Hamburg, 12, Jungfernstieg,
nouTE 1. i.oxdon to copenhaoek.

more than 150 newspapers and jour
nals are taken in. Entrance for a
"week, 1 mark.
The Post Office is in the Neuer Wall,
and also the Schnett-Post Office, but
a new and grand builiing is being
finished for these establishments
nearer the Alster. Schnell-posts run
daily to Lubeck, Cassel, Bremen, and
Frankfort ; and to Rostock twice a
* week.
Banker. Herr Berger, No. 6,
Graskeller, is one of the first here
Danish and other foreign money can
be purchased of him.
Consuls. All the States of the
new as well as the old world are
represented here. The British, and
most of the other Consulate offices,
are near the harbour. Travellers not
already provided with vises to their
passports for the countries they intend
to visit had better procure them here.
Steamboats. Information as to
the time of sailing of the various
.steamers may be obtained at the
various hotels, and berths secured at
the offices, which are near the har
bour. To London every Tuesday and
Friday night ; Hull, four times a
week ; Amsterdam and Havre, once
a week ; Heligoland, and also up the
Elbe to Magdeburg, daily. A steamer
crosses the Elbe to Harburg, the ter
minus of the Berlin, the Hanover,
and Cologne lines, 8 times a day.
Railroads and Schnell-posts.
Time tables, &c, are kept at the
different hotels. Care should be taken
to allow plenty of time for reaching
the stations of the Kiel, and also of
the Hanover line, both of which are
a considerable distance from the
town, and the time named by the
porters of the hotels often proves too
short, as the droskis are terribly slow
coaches. The terminus of the Berlin
line is close to the town. Both by
railway and schnell-post, luggage is
required to be sent a considerable
time previous to the hour of departure-,
and overweight must be paid for.
Denmark:
The commerce of Hamburg has

most materially increased within the
last ten years. The Hamburgers are
proud of their city, and justly sosome of thein speak of it as the first
commercial city in the world, "and
then London ! "
The merchants of Hamburg are
celebrated for their hospitality and
the goodness of their dinners, as all
strangers can testify who are well in
troduced. It is customary to give
vails to servants in private houses ;
they expect at least two marks from
each visitor. The English .residents
here are very numerous, and their
language is almost universally under
stood.
The picturesque portion of the
town runs eastward from the harbour.
The weighing-house and many of the
brick-nogging tumble-down old dwell
ings along the water-side, and the
adjoining canals, offer admirable sub
jects for the pencil, of that class of
subject which Holland, E. G-oodall,
and others treat so well. In the
morning these canals are crowded
with the Yierlanders in their pictu
resque costume and boats laden with
vegetables, fruit, &c. There is also
a picturesque old church in this
neighbourhood, most rich in colour,
and quaint in outline.
About this part of the town a
large portion of the poorer inhabit
ants live in cellars under the houses.
In winter, and after a prevalence of
west winds, which drive the waters
of the German Ocean into the mouth
of the Elbe, the tides rise to a great
height (sometimes 20 ft.), inundating
all the streets near the river. The
tenants of these cellars are then
driven from their habitations by the
water, which keeps possession of them
for days, leaving them filled with
ooze, and in a most unhealthy condi
tion. The upper part of the house is
let under, condition that the occupiers
of the cellars are to receive shelter at
such seasons of calamity.
Denmark.
BOUTE 1.. ALTONA.
Public Walks. The rampartswhich

formerly extended round the town,
where not protected by the Elbe,
have been levelled and converted into
beautiful drives and walks, more ad
mirably laid out, planted, and kept
than in any other continental town.
It is, however, much to be regretted
that the fortifications have not been
more completely destroyed ; as what
remains, together with the natural
strength of the position, offer great
temptations to repair the works on
the part of an enemy desirous of
holding the town.
From an eminence at the extremity
of these walks nearest to Altona, and
called Stintfang, there is an extensive
and picturesque view of the Harbour,
the Elbe, and the country around.
The Public Cemetery is outside the
Damm Gate, not far from the Jungfernstieg. It deserves a visit, as ex
hibiting the customs and usages of
Germany with regard to the restingplace of the dead.
The Gates of Hamburg are shut
every evening at dusk, . and a small
toll, increasing progressively every
hour till 12, is demanded, after
which persons may pass and repass
all through the night, upon payment
of 1 mark each. All eatables brought
into the town are taxed at the gates,
and even private carriages are some
times searched, and game found in
them has been seized.
Sentries of the Burger guard are
posted at the gates during the time
they are closed.
Environs. Some of the pleasantest
excursions to' be made near Hamburg
are on the west, about the adjoining
town of Altona.
Hamburg to Copenhagen. From
Hamburg to Copenhagen travellers
have the choice of several ways, viz.,
by Kiel, see this Route, and also
Route 5. By Lubeck, Routes 6 and
7. Route 8 entirely by land, except
crossing the Little and Great Belts.
And Route 9. A railway is now
25
constructed from Korsiir to Copenha

gen ; and boats run daily from Kiel to
Korsor, so that Copenhagen can be
reached in from 12 to 14 hours from
Hamburg.
The distance through
Sleswig, and across the islands (Route
8), is about 65 German, or 290
English, miles ; by Kiel or Lubeck 45
German, or rather less than 200 Eng
lish, miles. Going by Kiel we have
16 German, or about 70 English,
miles by land, and 29 German, or
about 130 English, miles by water. By
Lubeck, 8 German, or 36 English,
miles by land, and 174 by water.
To those who intend reaching Russia,
from whence they will probably return
by way of Lubeck, it is doubly ad
visable to adopt the Kiel road, as it
ensures them an easy journey and the
sight of the two towns, both well
worth visiting.
Hamburg to Kiel by Railway.
Trains leave Altona at 7-45 a.m.,
10.30 a.m., and 5.10 p.m., reaching
Kiel in 3J hours. The boat for Kor
sor leaves about 9 p. m. , on the arrival
of the last train from Hamburg.
A boat also leaves for Copenhagen
direct on Tuesdays and Fridays, at
9 p. m. Luggage must be at the sta
tion in Altona half an hour before the
train starts. And it takes upwards
of half an hour to reach the station
with a Hamburg droski.
Altona (Inns : Rolandsburg, in the
Breitestrasse ; der Schwarze Adler, on
the Fischmarkt), the second city in
the kingdom of Denmark (containing
a population of nearly 30,000), is
divided from Hamburg by a large
open field, called the field of the
Holy Ghost. The wharfs and ware
houses belonging to Altona join those
of Hamburg, and present the appear
ance of one long unbroken line of
building, stretching along the water
side, with rows of fine poplars be
hind. The rise of Altona, both in
wealth and population, has been
rapid, more so perhaps than that of
any other city on the Continent
0
20
llOUTE 1.
LONDON" to Copenhagen.
which is not the residence of govern

ment. It possesses very few objects
of interest. Its streets are long,
and its houses far more remarkable
for their lofty pointed roofs than any
architectural beauties. Those belong
ing to the wealthiest inhabitants are
situated on both sides of the Palmaille, a long and broad street, hav
ing in its centre a double avenue of
fine trees, which afford a pleasant and
shady walk. The chief EvanyelicLutheran Church is considered the
finest church in the Duchies. The
cemetery beyond the town contains
the tonib of Kloptocl; who died at
Hamburg (1804) at the age of 80,
and was followed to his last long
home, full of years and honours, by
thousands who revered and loved him.
Observe also the Monument erected to
the 1138 Hamburgers who fell during
the siege in 1813-14. The Duke of
Brunswick, severely wounded at Jena
(1806), died in Altona shortly after
the battle. A house a little beyond the
town, overlooking the Elbe, and' com
manding a fine view of the low plains
of Hanover, with their blue hills in
the distance, was formerly tenanted
by Dumourier, and subsequently by
Bourrienne. It is now called Rainville's Tavern, and has a pleasant
garden, much frequented by visitors
from Altona and Hamburg. About 3
German miles from Altona is a large
nursery garden, belonging to a Scotch
man named Booth, containing in a
space of ISO English acres trees and
flowers of most kinds. It is particu
larly celebrated for roses, of which it
is supposed to contain every known
pariety. Near Booth's garden, in the
village of Wambeci, the great astro
nomer Tycho Brake, and also the poet
Voss lived a long time. (See Route
5.) Mr. Bauer''$ gardens, about 14
German mile from Altona, are thrown
open to the public on Sundays ; each
person is, however, required to pay 4
schillings ' courant on entering, the
proceeds being destined for the poor
Denmark.
in Blankenese, a village with a popu

lation of 3000, consisting of pilots,
skippers, and fishermen. Close to
Blankenese is the village of Dockenhnden, also beautifully situated,
where J/uyo Orotius found an asylum
in 1632. Flottbek, a fine country
seat, with beautiful gardens, will
also repay the trouble of a visit ; and
so will the gardens and grounds of
Senator Jenisch, and Mr. Donner, to
view which strangers are kindly ad
mitted on application.
The Railway Terminus is a fine
building situated at the end of the
Palmaille, and commanding most ex
tensive and lovely views over the
Elbe and Hanoverian territory.
Trains three times, a day to and
from Kiel in about 3 hours and a half.
Fares: 1st class, 7 Hamburg marks
courant; 2nd class (in comfort and
elegance almost equal to 1st), 5 m. ;
3rd class, 3 m. 8 sch. Each passen
ger is only allowed 50 lbs. weight of
luggage free; for every additional 10
lbs. there is a charge of 4 sch.
Special caniages are assigned to
smokers.
The stations and distances are
Danish milea.
Pinneberg . . . Si
Tornesch . i
i
Elmshom . .
Horst . . . i
Wrist . . . . 2
Neumunster . . 3
Bordesholm . . 14
Kiel . . . . 24
14
Holstein.The railway is carried
through the centre of this province
from the Elbe to the Baltic. There
is not a single tunnel upon the line,
nor any very deep cuttings. It is
constructed for a double line of rails ;
but at present, for the greater part of
the way, only one is laid, and that
upon the narrow gauge.
Holstein, in the centre, is a pla
Denmark.
eoute 1 .
teau of sand, imperfectly drained,

and therefore covered with bogs,
small lakes, and heaths, like the
worst parts of Hanover. Its eastern
slope, where the natural drainage is
good, is intersected by valleys, well
wooded and cultivated. Its western
slope descends into a large tract of
reclaimed marsh along the mouth of
the Elbe and the North Sea, called
Ditmarsh, of which Meldorf is the
capital ; it is a very rich and produc
tive grazing district, from whence
Hamburg is principally supplied.
Ditmarsh is famous for its long and
heroic struggle with the Danes. In
1500 the inhabitants defeated a Dan
ish army of 30,000 men, with a loss
of 11,000 slain; and Ditmarsh was
not finally subdued till 1559. (Dun
ham's Hist, of Denmark, v. iii. pp. 07
and 128.)
From Altona till near Kiel, the
country is almost a dead flat the
whole way ; soil light, with extensive
peat grounds, and trees few and far
between. In summer large cranes
are very numerous ; they are quite
devoid of fear. Their huge nests may
be seen on the summit of the gable
end of most of the farm-houses. To
wards Kiel the soil improves, the
ground becomes prettily undulated
and well wooded, and the views along
the bay before reaching the town are
very pleasing.
Much land is being brought into
cultivation upon this line, and underdraining and other improvements
upon an extensive scale are being
made. Granite boulders of all sizes
are found to a great extent in Holstein. Before the railway was made
they were valueless ; now they are a
considerable source of profit to the
proprietors, labourers, and the line,
for there is a great and constantlyincreasing demand for granite, both
in Hamburg and Holland.
According to the census of 1855,
the population of Holstein was
523,528. It is a very flourishing
KIEL.
province. Its large farm-houses, in
cluding beneath their lofty and
pointed roofs the dwelling-house,
barn, and stable ; the well-filled rickyard, and, above all, the air of com
fort which pervades the interior of
the dwellings, betoken a people well
to do in the world. The men are an
athletic race, averaging above the
middle stature. The women, for the
most part, are good-looking, and wear
a most becoming, though somewhat
fantastic, costume. The Holstein
horses are large powerful animals, and
have in all ages been much used for
heavy cavalry. Large numbers are
exported annually. The natives
generally understand German, though
their own language is a happy com
pound of many tongues, more parti
cularly in the western part, where
many tribes of Slavic origin have
settled, and still retain a portion of
their ancient dialects.
The Station at Kiel is close to the
town. The quay, alongside of which
the steamers lie, is about \ mile from
the station. Luggage is liable to be
examined here ; but the search is
quite nominal if facility be af
forded to the officers. No fees are
expected or should be offered them.
The railway porters will at once carry
the baggage on board if requested ;
their remuneration is small, and regu
lated by a tariff. Care should be
taken to see that luggage is taken on
board, as instances have occurred of
its being left at the station by mis
take.
Kiel. Iims: Marsily's Hotel the
best. Landlord speaks English. Stadt
Copenhagen, Stadt Hamburg, and
Radley's Hotel. None of these houses
are far from the quay. The most
preferable hotel is at Dustenbroek,
about 2 English m. down the bay.
(See Environs.)
Population upwards of 10,000.
There is nothing of interest in the
architecture of the buildings in this
small city ; but it is charmingly situ
c 2
28
route 1.London to COPENHAGEN.
ated upon the bay, which looks like a

small lake. Its banks are beautifully
wooded ; it is only a short distance
from Kiel to the Baltic. The bathing
from boats near the town is admirable.
Kiel, being almost as favourably
situated as Lubeck for traffic with
the Baltic, and possessing the advan
tage over the latter city of a most
excellent harbour, spacious enough to
accommodate any number of vessels,
with abundant depth of water, and
protected from the violent gales which
prevail in the Baltic, is rapidly grow
ing into a seaport town of much im
portance. Particularly since the con
struction of the railroad to Hamburg,
which has opened such quick and
easy communication with the North
Sea, Kiel has began to nourish at the
expense of Lubeck. In winter, and
during the bathing season in summer,
the town is a general place of assem
bly for the nobility and gentry of
Sleswig and Holstein, and forms alto
gether the centre of social and intel
lectual life in the Duchies, though it is
not the seat of government. The high
court of appeal for the Duchies is
located in Kiel. At the celebrated
annual fair, which commences in Janu
ary, and which is called the Kieler
Umschlag, a great number of the
nobles as well as of the other classes
of the inhabitants of the Duchies con
gregate here to transact business.
Public Buildings.Those worthy
of notice are, the palace, the resi
dence of the Duke of Gliicksborg,
married to one of the royal princesses
of Denmark ; the Church of St. Ni
cholas, which dates from the 13th
century ; the Convent Church, in
which is buried Duke Adolphus IV.
of Holstein, to whom the city owes
its first rise ; and the University,
which, notwithstanding the connec
tion of the Duchy of Holstein with the
kingdom of Denmark, has all the cha
racteristics of other German universi
ties, and is very anti-Danish in spirit.
The number of students is about 300.
Denmark.
The Library of the University is

located in a separate building, and
contains 60,000 volumes. The Mu
seum of Natural History is small, but
interesting, particularly the portion
devoted to comparative anatomy,
which is somewhat rich in specimens.
The Museum of Northern Antiquities
is small, but of considerable interest.
The Schloss Garten (Palace Garden)
is a pretty and fashionable prome
nade.
The Environs of the city afford
some charming walks, particularly
along the banks of the bay towards
the Baltic, in which direction there is
a wood of splendid beech trees and
some tea gardens, commanding lovely
views over the Baltic and surround
ing country.
At Dilsternhroeh, a village near the
town, there is an excellent establish
ment for sea bathing, in a beautiful
situation. Close to the bathing esta
blishment there are two large build
ings fitted up as an hotel for the bath
ers who may like to dwell upon the
spot. Dorfgarten, a pretty village
on the banks of the water, and
Wiburg, are also in the immediate
vicinity of the town, and are both
favourite places of resort.
Near Knoop, a country seat, 4 Eng.
m. from Kiel, with beautiful pleasure
grounds, commences the Sleswig and
Holstein Canal, which connects the
Baltic with the- river Eider and the
North Sea. The waters of the Eider
are, at its juncture with the canal,
274 *eet above the level of the Baltic.
The ships coming from the Baltic have
therefore to be raised to this height
by means of three sluices, one of
which is situated near Knoop ; and
by means of three other sluices, the
lowest of which is situated near
Rendsborg, the vessels are again low
ered 22 feet. The length of the
canal, from its commencement to its
junction with the Eider, which is
navigable as far up as Rendsborg, is
5 Danish m., about 23 Eng. m. On
Denmark.
EOUTE 1.
the surface it is 100 feet broad, at

the bottom 40 feet ; its lowest depth
is 10 feet, and it is navigable for
ships of 7D tons burthen. At the
mouth of the canal, 3 Eng. m. from
Kiel, there are placed 2 pillars of
Norwegian marble, bearing the in
scription, " Populo et P'atria." The
utility of this canal, which, by ena
bling ships to avoid the dangerous
passage round the peninsula of Jut
land, by substituting a passage of 22
Dan. m. for one of 300 Dan. m., has
been of vast importance to the trading
interests of the country, but will now
probably be in a great measure super
seded by the railroads which now
connect the different ports of the
Duchies on the North Sea and on
the Baltic.
The Probstey, a small territory near
Kiel, is remarkable for the extraor
dinary height to which the cultivation
of the soil has been brought, and for
the peculiarity of the picturesque and
antique dress of the inhabitants, who
are by some believed to be descendants
of Dutch colonists, but are by others
held to be a remnant of the Sclavonic
populations which once inhabited this
district.
14 Dan. m. from Kiel is the little
fortress Frederiksort, which protects
the entrance of the harbour,
Steamers from Kiel leave at all
states of the tide, the rise and fall of
which is very small. The vessels are
all commanded by officers in the royal
navy of the country to which each
vessel belongs, and they all speak
English.
Banish boats. To Copenhagen di
rect on Tuesdays and Fridays at 9
p.m., on the arrival of the afternoon
train from Hamburg. Average pas
sage, 12 to 16 hours ; distance, 162
Eng. m.
Berths may be secured at the office
near the quay.
To Korsor, the terminus of the
railway from Copenhagen in Zealand,
every night on the arrival of the af
KIEL
29
ternoon train from Hamburg about

9 P.M.
Norwegian Boats. For Chris
tiania direct every Saturday at noon,
on the arrival of the train from Ham
burg. Fare, chief cabin, 8 specie
dollars ; average passage, 40 hours.
This vessel passes through the Great
Belt, calls at Korsor, the terminus
of the Zealand Railway, at Fredrikshavn, at Valid, Moss, Horten, and
Drobak in the Christiania Fjord, and
arrives at Christiania on the Sunday
evening, or early on Monday morning.
On the return voyage, she leaves on
Tuesday morning, calls at Vallo on the
S. coast of Norway, where she meets
the boat from the W. coast that even
ing, and the other places mentioned
above, and reaches Kiel late on Wed
nesday, or early on Thursday morning.
Kiel to Koksok in Zealand,
thence by rail to copenhagen.
On leaving the bay of Kiel the steamer
passes between the islands of Langeland and Laaland, and shortly after
enters the Great Belt. Korsor in Zea
land is reached in about 6 hours
from Kiel. From hence to Copen
hagen there are three trains a day,
passing through Slagelse, Roeskilde,
and other stations, reaching Copen
hagen in less than 34 hours from
Korsor. Fares, chief cabin, from
Kiel to Korsor, 4 rix dol. ; Korsor
to Copenhagen, first class, rail, 4 r. d. ,
24 sk. For description of towns be
tween Korsor and Copenhagen, see
Route 8.
Kiel to Copenhagen. The scenery
all down the bay to the entrance of
the Baltic, though somewhat too flat,
is highly picturesque ; about midway
the province of Sleswig commences on
the left, at the entrance of the Sles
wig and Holstein Canal, which, in
conjunction with the river Eider, di
vides the two Duchies. On entering
the Baltic, the islands of Femern on
the right, and the larger ones of Laland, Falster, and Mben with its high
chalk cliffs, are passed in succession
00
ItOUTK 1.
COPENHAGEN.
INNS, ETC.
Denmark.
on the left. Soon afterwards the Good table d'hote at 3 o'clock.

great island of Zealand (or Sjeland, Charges : bed, 4 marks 8 sk. Break
upon which and Amak Copenhagen is fast, with meat, 4 m. ; dinner, table
built) comes in sight upon the left, d'hote, 6 m. ; tea, 2 m. 11 sk. All
and the coast of Sweden upon the servants and porter, 1 m. 8 sk. per
right. Numerous light-ships, as well diem. For comfort and convenience
as lighthouses, are passed. 20 Eng. id. this is the best house for the English,
before reaching Copenhagen, its spires as it is opposite Thorwaldsen's Mu
and towers are seen rising above the seum and the palace of Christiansborg,
long line of flat on which the city is which contains all the best collections
built. Near the termination of the of pictures, antiquities, Sic. H&tel
voyage the vessel passes between two d'Angleterre and the H6tel du Nord,
small islands, Saltholm on the right, both in the Kongens Nytorv, and large
and A male on the left, and on round houses. H6tel Phoenix, in the Bred
ing the latter the ship passes under Gade, and the nearest to the landingthe celebrated " Trekroner" battery, place, but some distance from all the
a formidable work, and drops her best collections, also a large house,
and well spoken of. There are like
anchor in the harbour.
A box is placed in the cabin for wise 3 small housesStadt Lauenfees of the steward and stewardess. burg, Store Strandstrade, No. 78 ;
About ^ rix dol. (Is. lgf/.) is expected Hotel Loven, Nyhavn-links, No. 11 ;
from each passenger.
Hotel de Scandinavie, corner of the
Some little time often elapses before Gotersgade.
the usual formalities are gone through,
The Post Office and Diligence Office
and passengers allowed to go on shore. is in the Store Kjobmager-gade, No.
They are landed with their baggage in 55. Post to and from Hamburg daily.
boats close to the Custom House. Ad Lists of letters, directed Poste Resjoining is the office where passports tante, are kept at the office. Printed
must be given up, and a fee paid of 3 lists of the different public convey
Dan. marks each (Is. \\d.). Till this ances, with the times of their de
is done, the search of baggage is not parture, &c, are also open to in
allowed to be made. Such search is spection. Letters posted for any place
quite nominal if facilities be afforded out of Denmark must be pre-paid.
the ofiicers. No fees to them are ex
The following are the periods fixed
for seeing' the various sights. Care
pected or should be given.
Commissionaires speaking English should be taken on arriving in Copen
are in attendance from the various hagen to ascertain whether any and
hotels, and will aid travellers in getting what alteration has been made, as by
their baggage searched. When cleared, attending on the public days both time
it may safely be trusted to the porters and expense are saved. For the Rosen
in attendance for conveyance to any of borg Palace, and other places, at
the hotels. They are some distance periods when not open to the public,
from the Custom House, but droskis it is usual for the landlords at the
are in attendance. Fare, 3 marks. As hotels to make up parties, who divide
they are not numerous, it is advisable the expense of the custodes' fees for
to secure a droski immediately on land attendance. The real sights of Copen
ing.
hagen are the Museum of Northern
Copenhagen (Danish, Kjobenhavn, Antiquities, Thorwaldsen's Museum,
or the Merchant's Harbour). Inns: the Frue Kirke, the Royal Collection
Hotel Royal in the Garmnelstrand : of engravings, and perhaps the Rosen
kept by two Swiss ; great personal at borg Palace. These, especially the
tention to the comfort of the guests. first three, are the glory of the North ;
Denmark,
route 1.Copenhagen.public collections.
it may be doubted whether the other

sights of Copenhagen, of which a list
is given below, are worth taking much
trouble about.
To be seen daily, on special applica
tion.
The Christiansborg Palace, apply
to Slolsforvalter, J. Hansen, Ny-Kongensgade, No. 231. Open from 9 to
5 ; fee, 3 rix d., which admits 12
persons. The Rosenborg Palace, ap
ply there. Open from 9 to 5 ; fee, 3
rix d., which admits a party of 12.
The Frue Kirke, apply there, or to
Herr Oram, Studiistrcede, No. 56.
The Royal Library, Tiilhuus-gade, No.
83, from 1 1 to 2, except Sundays and
Wednesdays. The University Library
is open every week-day from 11 to 2.
Entrance under the round tower of the
Trinity Church. The Gallery of Oasts
in the Charlottenborg Palace, apply to
the porter. The Church of the Re
deemer (Vor Frelsers Kirke) and its
Tower, apply to C. Petersen Christianshafen, Droningensgade, No. 257. The
Antliropologische Museum, apply to
Herr Prof. S. Stein.
Collections, <kc., open to the Public.
Sunday. From 11 to 1, the Royal
Museum of Natural History, Stormgade. No. 187 ; and 12 to 2, the
Royal Collection of Pictures, in the
Christiansborg Palace.
Monday. During summer, from 12
to 2, the Royal Money and Medallion
Cabinet, in the Rosenborg Palace ; and
from 1st May till October, 5 to 7, the
Museum of Northern Antiquities, in
the Christiansborg Palace, entrance
from the N. side, under the colonnade
on the left, near the Riding-house, but
strangers may without difficulty pro
cure admission at any time upon ap
plying to Etatsraad Thomsen, the
Secretary of the Society of Northern
Antiquarians.
Tuesday. 10 to 2, the Royal Mu
seum of Natural History ; and 11 to
81
2 the Royal Collection of Engraving

in the Christiansborg Palace, S. wing.
From 1st May to end of August, 11 to
3, in September, 2 to 6, in October, 1
to 5, the Royal Collection of Pictures ;
and 12 to 2, the Classcnsche Library,
Amaliegade, No. 129.
Wednesday. 12 to 1, the upper
part of the Round Tower. From 1st
May to Dec , 12 to 2, the Malike Col
lection of Pictures, in the Tottske Pa
lace, Kongens Nytorv, No. 205. But
this collection is always open to
strangers on application to Herr Justisrath Pref. J. P. Moller, Charjpttenborg Palace. From 12 to 2, the
Classemche Library ; and, without
tickets, from 15th May to 15th Oct.,
5 to 7, the Royal Museum, Dronningens Tvergade, No. 274.
Thursday. 8 to 12 a.m., and 2 to
7 p.m., the Botanic Garden, Nyhavn,
on the right, No. 282. But strangers
can obtain admission at other times
by appointment with the Gardener,
Herr Weilbach. From 11 to 1, Mu
seum of Northern Antiquities. From
1st May to November, 10 to 2, Mu
seum of Natural History ; and 1 2 to
2, Classensche Lilrrary.
Friday. From 11 to 2 the Royal
Collection of Engravings. From 11
to 3 the Royal Collection of Pictures,
from the 1st of May to the 1st of
November.
Saturday. From 12 to 1, the
upper part of the Round, Tower ; and
from 15th April to 15th Oct., 12 to
2, the Royal Museum. Tickets (given
gratis) must be obtained in the morn
ing.
The population of Copenhagen, in
1855, was 143,591. The foundation
of this city is of comparatively modern
date, it being attributed to Bishop
Axel, who, in 1168, obtained a grant
of the ground from Valdemar I. It
was then occupied as a fishing hamlet,
around which the bishop raised fortications. Roeskilde was at that time
the capital. In less than a century
the new town obtainod the privileges
route J.Copenhagen. sieges, etc.

of a city. The location of this place
appeared to Christopher III. so admir
ably adapted alike for commerce and
government that he purchased the
superiority over it from the Bishop of
Roeskilde, and in the 14th century
transferred his court here ; since
which time it has remained the capital
of Denmark. Copenhagen has with
stood many sieges. In 1428 it was
invested by the Hanseatic League,
and saved by the heroism of Philippa,
queen of Eric IX., and daughter of
Henry IV. of England, who threw
herself into the city, and by her ex
hortations and heroic example inspired
the garrison with such zeal that they
forced the enemy to retire. In 1536
the city was held by the Roman
Catholic party, but forced to capitu
late to Christian III., after a long
siege, in which the inhabitants suffered
all the horrors of famine. In the
winter of 1658-9, it successfully with
stood a long siege from Charles X. of
Sweden. In 1801, a British fleet,
with Nelson, second to Sir Hyde
Parker in command, after one of the
most desperate actions upon record,
burnt or sunk all the Danish vessels
here, and forced Denmark to abandon
the alliance she had entered into
against Engjand. And lastly, in 1807,
Copenhagen was besieged, and suffered
dreadfully from the bombardment of
a British army under Lord Cathcart,
and in which the Duke of Wellington,
then Sir Arthur Wellesley, held a
command. The city again capitulated,
and all the ships and naval and mili
tary stores were conveyed to England.
The British have been loudly con
demned for this siege ; and the Danes
are said to bear us a deep feeling of
animosity for it, not only for the
serious blow it inflicted upon them,
but because that blow was struck
without just cause, as they alleged,
and without any previous declaration
of war. On the part of England, it
appears that the Government con
sidered the peculiar circumstances
Denmark-
which had come to their knowledge

justified ftieir adopting proceedings so
alien to all ordinary ideas of inter
national relations ; that, Denmark
having secretly entered into a treaty
of alliance, defensive and offensive,
with Napoleon, the Danish fleet would
have been at his disposition in further
ance of his designs against England.
The expedition was therefore made as
secretly and expeditiously as possible,
and the surrender of the Danish fleet
and stores demanded for retention in
England during the war ; this was de
clined, and the king refusing to enter
into any satisfactory explanations the
siege was commenced upon this de
voted city.
Formerly Copenhagen was built of
wood ; it was thrice destroyed by fire,
the last time in 1795, after which
most of the present edifices were
built, including the Christiansborg
Palace.
The fortifications are of great ex
tent and strength. The walls inclose
a circuit of 5 Eng. m. , but in which
are comprised the harbour and the
docks. The Palace of Christians
borg and some few of the public build
ings are handsome, but, with this
exception, the architecture of the
city is singularly devoid of beauty
or picturesque effect. The whole
town is built of brick and stucco,
and the houses generally are most
plain, bald, and uninteresting struc
tures.
That portion of the city which lies
in the Isle of Zealand is divided into
two almost equal parts by the Gothers
Gade, which extends nearly N. and S.
from the city ramparts to the Strommen, or channel which separates Zea
land from the Isle of Amak. The
western division, called the "Old
Town," consists for the most part of
narrow winding streets ; it comprises
the Castle Island, on which stand the
Palace of Christiansborg, the Ex
change, &c, several of the finest
churches, and the University. In the
Denmark, route ].Copenhagen.gates, places.

eastern division, or "New Town,"
the streets are wide and regularly
built. The southern part, called
the " Frederickstad," if completed
according to the original design, would
have equalled in splendour any capital
in Europe. The suburb of Christianshavn, on the Isle of Amak, may be
considered as the third division of the
capital, the principal communication
with which is by a drawbridge near
the Exchange.
The entire city, including the Isle
of Amak or Amager, is encircled by
bastions, with a broad deep ditch,
which is kept filled by the waters
of a small lake near the city ; on the
north side stands the citadel of Frederikshavn, a most formidable for
tress. It has 5 sides, each furnished
with a double row of ramparts and
cannon. Amongst all the changes
and chances of war that have visited
Copenhagen, this citadel still remains
a virgin fortress. Neither in 1801
nor 1807 was any attack made upon
the citadel ; on the latter occasion the
English army landed a short distance
below Elsineur, and made their attack
on the city from the opposite quarter ;
while, on the former, the Danish line
was so placed from the Trekroner
battery, to the northern side of the
harbour, that the guns of the citadel
were entirely useless.
The city has four gates, one of
which is on the Isle of Amak; the
hours of opening and closing them
are strictly arranged according to the
various seasons of the year. All
provisions that enter the town are
taxed at the gates, and private car
riages even are stopped for examina
tion. A declaration that you have
nothing liable to duty is sufficient,
and the officials are almost invariably
civil and courteous. After sunset on
w-eek-days, and the whole of Sun
days, carriages pay a toll at the gates.
The ramparts of the city and citadel
are planted with trees and laid out in
most agreeable walks. Those of the
38
city are open to the public ; but to

those of the citadel access can only
be obtained through means of a per
mit sold at a fixed charge, the pro
ceeds being dedicated to the poor.
The master of every hotel supplies
visitors with such a card, which is
sufficient to procure admission either
to walk or to hear the band of the
garrison, which plays two evenings in
the week on one of the bastions of the
citadel.
Great precautions are taken against
fire ; a constant look-out is kept from
the various watch-towers, and on the
first alarm the church bells toll, the
drums of the garrison beat, and the
watchmen every now and then inter
rupt the piercing tones of their shrill
whistles to cry out in a most lugu
brious voice, "Fire! fire!" In
short, every discordant tone is used to
swell the universal din and frighten
the sleeping city from its rest. When
the whole population is fairly set in
motion, it very frequently learns that
a chimney in one of the outskirts of
the town was on fire some hour or two
before.
Great improvements have taken
place within the last few years. For a
long time the dominant party in
Copenhagen have successfully resisted
all change proposed by the minority,
but lately many of the proposed
changes have taken place. The town
is brilliantly lighted with gas, and
water pipes are laid down to supply
every house.
Copenhagen contains within its
walls only three open Places of any
considerable dimensions ; one of these,
the Fredericks Plads, is a circus di
vided into equal portions by i streets
which run through it. All the palaces
composing this Plads belong to the
king. Two are inhabited by the
king, the others by members of
the royal family. The other two
Places are called Torves or markets.
The Gammel and Nyetorv, or old and
new market, is a large open space of
34
boute 1.palace of CHRISTIANSBOBG.
ground near the west gate, and is used

as the principal market of the city ;
it contains a fountain, and on the
west side stands the Saadhuus, in
which the courts of justice are held,
a plain building with no pretensions to
beauty, either of design or ornament.
The inscription over the door is, how
ever, appropriate and striking, Med
Lov skal man Land byrjge (with law
is the State to be built), the opening
words of Yaldemar II. 's Jutland
Law.
The Kongens Nyetorv (or King's
New Market) may be considered as
the central point of the city ; it is an
irregular space of great extent, and
even with the equestrian statue that
adorns it, and although it forms the
principal thoroughfare between the
different parts of Copenhagen, its
appearance is forlorn and deserted.
Upwards of 12 of the principal streets
run out of this torv, in one of which,
the Oster Gade, most of the shops
which this capital can boast are
situated ; they are by no means
splendid externally, and are very far
inferior to those in a second or even a
third rate town in England.
The A rnager Torv, close to the Castle
Island, with which it is connected by
a bridge, is used as a market for fish
and vegetables. On market days it
presents an attractive scene with the
Amagers in their picturesque attire,
perched upon their red-painted
wagons heaped up with vegetables and
flowers, and the servant maids in
their neat white caps and cotton
gowns ; or, if they be peasant girls,
in their still more becoming silken
hood and many-coloured costume,
laughing and chatting with the goodnatured islanders, or quarrelling with
the scolding fishwives seated in a group
at the foot of the bridge ; behind
these the tapering masts of the little
craft moored in the canal, and as
background the stately Palace of
Christiansborg and the quaint-looking
Exchange. The Amagers are descend
Denmark.
ants of Butch colonists established in

1516 by Christian II., in the little
island whence they derive their
name. Though they have lost all
other national distinctions, they still
maintain their original Friesland cos
tume.
The Palace of Christiansborg, con
sumed in the conflagration of 1795,
has been rebuilt upon a scale more
befitting the monarch of a power of
the first class than of such a kingdom
as Denmark now is. Its immense
facade possesses but few claims to
architectural beauty ; but, over the
entrance on the side that faces the
Slotsplads, 4 basxi-relicvi, by the
great master whose works ever com
mand admiration, attract the eye and
rivet the attention. These works of
Thorwaldsen represent Minerva and
Prometheus, Hercules and Hebe,
Jupiter and Nemesis, and iEsculapius
and Hygsea. The endless suite of
apartments within the palace, being
only used on festive occasions, are
but partially furnished ; yet, as they
are decorated with paintings by the
Danish academicians Lorentzen, Eckersberg, and Lund, they will repay
the trouble of a visit. The great
banquet hall, or Jtiddersal, which as
to the grandness of its proportions is
unrivalled in Europe, is decorated with
a frieze by Bissen (a Dutch sculptor),
representing a procession of Bacchus
and Ceres. In the great entrancehall is another of the immortal works
of Thorwaldsen, ike triumphal March
of Alexander. For this series of
reliefs, the artist chose his subjects
from the fifth book of Curtius, chap
ter 1, where he relates how Alexan
der, after a decisive victory over the
retreating Darius, drew nigh unto
Babylon, and made his entry into the
city. Mazams, one of Darius' ge
nerals, who had fled thither from the
field of battle, opened the gates on *
the approach of the victor, and went
out on the road with his children to
implore hi3 clemency. A great num-
Denmark,
route 1.Copenhagen.pictures, etc.
ber of the inhabitants assembled on

the walls to obtain a sight of the
approaching hero, but a greater num
ber went out to meet him. Among
the latter was Bagophanes, the com
mander and treasurer of the fortress,
who, anxious to equal Mazseus in hig
demonstrations of subjection, had
caused the road to be strewn with
flowers, and silver altars, on which
burnt costly incense, to be erected on
both side3. He was followed by Per
sians leading the gifts to be presented
to the conqueror, consisting of horses,
cattle, lions, and panthers. These
again were followed by the Magi
chanting hymns, and these by the Chal
deans and musicians. The procession
was opened by the splendid Babylonian
cavalry. In the midst of this popu
lation, and followed by his own army,
Thorwaldsen has represented Alexan
der, and has shed the poetry of his
genius round each varying group.
The Supreme Court of Justice is in
one wing of this enormous edifice ;
the throne is supported by three mas
sive lions of silver-gilt, and sur
mounted by a canopy of crimson vel
vet; immediately facing the royal
seat is that of the prisoner.
The chapel attached to the Palace
of Christiansborg is decorated with
bassi-relievi by Thorwaldsen and Bissen.
The Royal Collection of Pictures
occupies the whole of the upper floor
of the front of the Christiansborg
Talace. Catalogues may be had
there. In the embrasures of the
windows in each room there is a plan
of the apartment, upon which are in
dicated the paintings as they are
hung, with the name of the artist
and number. The catalogues being
kept alphabetically, according to the
artist's name in each of the schools,
makes the reference to it, in con
junction with these plans, perfectly
easy.
Until lately this collection com
prised about 1000 pictures. It is now
&5
reduced to 565, and of these not

more than about the odd b'5 ought
to be retained. The collection has
been a fine one ; but from the in
famous manner in which the pictures
were cleaned, and literally flayed
during the last century, there is
scarcely a picture of the old masters
in a perfectly genuine state. It is
evident that of late this collection has
been placed under most able and
scientific superintendence ; but no
thing can restore the splendid produc
tions of which the ghosts alone, for
the most part, remain in this gallery.
The sculptors of Denmark have given
her of late a high position in the ranks
of art. That position, and a due re
gard to the instruction of her native
artists, alike demand that all the
ruined and inferior pictures should be
withdrawn. If that were done, a
small but good collection would remain,
upon which artists and amateurs might
rely in the formation of their judg
ment and taste.
In the Italian school, No. 66, Cad
mus sowing the dragon's teeth, by 8.
Rosa, is worthy of attention. In the
Flemish, Dutch, and German schools,
the following are interesting :123,
by P. Bol. 142, 144, 145, and 147,
by L. Canach. 153 by Denner ; 168,
by Vandyck ; 229, by Honthorst ; 251,
by Van Huysum ; 300, by F. Mieris ;
330, by Mytens ; 334, 336, 337, by
A. Vauder Neer ; 385, by P. Potter ;
338, by J. Ruysdael, and a few
others.
In the Danish school the works of
Juel, Mailer, and Dahl should be no
ticed ; the latter is a Norwegian, but
formed his style upon the Danish
model. The Moltke Collection of Pic
tures contains some fine specimens of
D. Teniers, J. Ruysdael, Hobbema,
Ph. Wouvermans, and P. Potter, un
usually good. This collection is not
large ; but, as a whole, the pictures
are in a good state and more worthy
of attention than those in the royal
collection. All the best pictures hero
30
boute 1.museum of n. antiquities.
are of the Dutch school. There are

several other private collections in the
town, but none of much repute.
The Museum of Northern A ntiquities occupies a suite of 7 rooms in the
N. wing of the Christiansborg Palace.
This collection is not only one of the
most complete and interesting in Co
penhagen, but is quite unique. When
Professor Thomsen was appointed di
rector of this museum it was very
small, and its present extent and
celebrity are almost exclusively owing
to his zeal and talent. A law has
been made entitling the crown to all
antiquities found, which are of metal;
but as their full value is always paid
on delivery at the museum, and the
priest in every parish has injunctions
to have everything found sent there,
not a week passes without new, and,
in many cases, most valuable, additions
being furnished. Thus, in 1847, a
pair of most massive and exquisitelywrought bracelets of solid gold were
found and brought here. Professor
Thomsen speaks English, and is most
obliging in explaining all that may be
required.
The specimens in this museum are
exceedingly numerous, and beautifully
arranged in their different periods,
commencing with articles of all sorts
in stone, and ending with those of iron.
The collection is excessively rich in
diadems, and various ornaments in
gold and silver : one necklace of the
purest gold weighs 3 lbs.
The array of stone weapons of all
kinds is most formidable : clubs, axes,
and hammers, the latter of which are
remarkable for the holes into which
the handles are fitted. The greater
part of these instruments, as well as
the peculiar stones used in manufac
turing them, were found in the ancient
tombs or cairns so numerous in the N.
of Europe*. One of these, in particular,
was dug out of the barrow near Leire,
supposed to contain the tomb of
Harald Hildetand, a Danish monarch
of the 8th century.
Denmark.
All the rude contrivances to which

the ingenuity of the olden time had
recourse before the use of metals was
known may be seen here : knives,
arrow-heads, and chisels of stone,
principally of the hardest kind. The
beauty of the forms and workmanship
of many of these articles are quite
surprising, particularly those which
are of flint.
Many of the sepulchral urns, which
are chiefly of clay, were found in Jut
land ; others in various parts of Holstein ; and one, of a square form made
of stone, was found in the island of
Bornholm. Upon examining the
tumuli from whence these urns were
taken, bones of various animals,
among which those of horses and dogs
could be distinguished, have been
frequently discovered. This seems to
confirm the ancient tradition that the
steed and hound of the northern
warrior were buried beside him, that
he might appear as befitted a chieftain
in the Halls of Walhalla. A sieve
made of metal is frequently found in
these tombs, and appears to have been
used in their funeral ceremonies. The
principal place where these antiquities
have been discovered is in S. Jutland,
near the town of Ripen. There are
likewise numerous sepulchral urns
here of precious and other metals.
The Runic monuments form a most
interesting portion of this collection.
The most curious of these is the
Greenland Runic stone brought to this
museum in 1824. The stone itself is
small, but the inscription unusually
clear and legible. The learned Pro
fessors, Rask and Magnusen, have ex
pounded its meaning, and fixed its
date (1135). It was found by a
Greenlander, in latitude 73, upon"an
island near the northern coast of
Greenland.
In Sweden, Runic inscriptions have
been found of so late a date as the
15th century. In Norway, none have
been found later than the 12th. A
Danish Professor has recently dis
Denmark,
route 1. Copenhagen.royal library, etc.
covered some Norwegian Runic in

scriptions in the Isle of Man.
The collection of Icelandic calen
dars, long pieces of wood carved with
signs, to represent the months and
seasons, is very curious. A goose de
notes Michaelmas, a glove winter, a
hatchet the return of spring. The
oldest date from the 10th century ;
and they are continued down to the
present time, with the same signs and
symbols.
The collection of female ornaments
in gold, bronze, and amber is also
very interesting, particularly on ac
count of the taste and delicacy of the
workmanship'.
A fragment of a metal bell also
found in Greenland (1806), near the
ruins of the old Norsk settlement, is
interesting as a relic of the vain at
tempt to colonise that inhospitable
land. The collection of absolution
letters is interesting, particularly the
letter of 1454, one of the oldest speci
mens of printing now 'extant. A
drinking-horn, which formerly be
longed to the Ditmarchers, is pre
served here. It formed a portion of
the spoil obtained by the Danes on
their final subjection. Among the
arms is a mace of oak with plates of
iron projecting in every direction, a
most fearful weapon. The collection
of fire-arms from their earliest use is
interesting, though very far from com
plete. A curious old cannon, one of
the first members of that numerous
family, is so constructed as to be
loaded from behind. But it is in
tended that most of the latter portion
of this collection should be removed
to the Royal Museum, so as to render
that more complete and national,
while many articles there are to enrich
this coUection.
The Royal Stables and Ridinghouse adjoin the N. wing of the
Palace of Christiansborg. Both are
upon a large scale. The former con
tains stalls for 200 horses.
The King's Chancery is in a large
37
building immediately adjoining the

same palace on the S., as well as the
3 following establishments, viz.
The Royal Library, which contains
about 400,000 volumes and a valuable
collection of 15,000 manuscripts,
among which the Icelandic and Ori
ental MSS. are particularly interest
ing. The former, which are written
in the Runic character, are now in
course of publication. They belong to
a division of the library exclusively
devoted to Scandinavian literature,
and to all that has been written in
any way concerning the Scandinavian
countries, also of Iceland and Green
land.
The Royal Collection of Engravings
is both fine and extensive, numbering
upwards of 30,000. A history of this
collection by Rumohr, and Thiele,
was published at Leipsig, 1833.
The Arsenal is, like all the other
collections in Copenhagen, rendered
doubly interesting and instructive by
the order and intelligence which have
presided over its arrangements. Arms,
from the earliest periods up to the
present day, are here carefully classi
fied and ranged in chronological order,
thus presenting a complete history of
the progressive development of the dif
ferent kinds of instruments of war.
Here may be viewed in succession
all the gradations of the musket, from
the ancient matchlock in all its nume
rous varieties, down to the flint, and
on to the percussion lock of the pre
sent day.
Among the sabres are many, the
hilts and scabbards of which present
specimens of exquisite workmanship.
The Castle of Rosenborg is near the
N. gate of the city. It was erected
in the time of Christian IV. in 1604.
The fact of its having been the work
of Inigo Jones is disputed by some of
the professors here, although he was
unquestionably first architect to the
king at that time, and accompanied
his Majesty to England in 1606, when
Jones was introduced to the queen of
38 ROUTE 1.
COPENHAGEN.O.iastle of bosenboeg. Denmark.
James I., and appointed her archi

tect.
The Castle is an irregular building
of red brick, in the Gothic style, with
a high pointed roof, and flanked by
four towers of unequal dimensions. It
was originally surrounded by a moat,
and furnished with a drawbridge and
other defences according to the fashion
of the period ; but all these have long
since disappeared, which much de
tracts from the picturesque effect of
the building. At that time the castle
was without the city walls ; but in
1608 the defences were enlarged, and
it was included within them.
The Castle is now almost exclusively
devoted to the national collections
which exist there.
The gardens, which are open to the
public, are extensive and agreeable.
They formerly contained numerous
summer-houses, &e., but a single
fountain and one small pavilion alone
remain. There are several statues in
these gardens, but all of them very
inferior as works of art ; also an
establishment where those who cannot
or will not visit the mineral springs of
nature may nevertheless partake of
their benefits, by drinking the waters
here prepared by science.
As visitors to the castle are nume
rous in summer, it is generally requi
site to make an appointment with the
custode some hours previous to visit
ing it.
The Regalia are kept in this castle,
but a special permission is required
to see them, which may however be
obtained without any great difficulty.
The Riddersal is a fine spacious
room, the walls of which are covered
with curious tapestry, representing
various battles and martial deeds of
Christian V. in the years 1676-7. At
one end stands a massive silver
throne. With the exception of this
hall, all the rooms are small, and of
little interest, except for the collec
tions they contain.
These collections comprise a great
variety of objects of art, arms, and

costumes which have belonged to va
rious sovereigns of Denmark. They
are divided into two classes, those
belonging to the early members of the
Oldenburg dynasty, and those of
Christian IV. and his successors.
The collection of goblets, horns,
and antique boxes is costly and ex
tensive. Among others, the famous
silver horn of Oldenborg. The deli
cate ornaments with which it is co
vered represent in miniature all the
details of German castle architecture
in the 15th century, and scenes de
scriptive of the life of the inmates of
the castles. The two feet on which
the horn reposes, as well as the cover
to it, are miniature models of richlyornamented castles with towers and
battlements ; the embossed figures on
the body of the horn represent
pointed roofs and gables, crenelated
walls, Gothic porches and gateways,
bay windows and balconies, barbicans
and turrets. On the battlements are
the warders with their horns ; in
front of the gateways knights in ar
mour caracole their horses ; from
the balconies ladies wave their ker
chiefs, &c, &c. Round the knob on
the cover is a row of minute figures
representing minstrels with their
lutes, and round the mouth of the
hom female figures alternate with
shield-bearers, carrying the arms of
Denmark and other countries. This
exquisite piece of workmanship was,
according to the pious fashion of the
middle ages, dedicated to the three
wise men of the East, whose names
are engraved upon the cover toge
ther with some scriptural devices.
This drinking horn is generally sup
posed to have been made for King
Christian I., in commemoration of
his visit to Cologne in 1447, whither
he was invited by the German Empe
ror Frederic III. and Charles the
Bold of Burgundy, to act as umpire
between them. It has sometimes
been erroneously confounded with
Denmark,
bodte 1.palace of charlotti;nborg.
another born, which Danish tradition

says Count Otto of Oldenborg in an
cient times received from a mountain
sprite. A sword, with an iron hilt,
and the inscription, Vim vi repellere
lied, is supposed to have belonged to
Christian II., and to have been his
favourite weapon in perpetrating the
various atrocities laid to his charge.
The seats used at the coronation of
the kings and queens of Denmark are
in the throne chamber : that of the
king is in the Gothic style, supported
by horns of the narval, or unicorn,
and adorned with gilt figures of the
Virtues. On the upper part is a large
amethyst, or rather the model of
one, the real stone being kept with
the regalia, and only used at corona
tions, when it is put in the place now
occupied by the model. The queen's
throne is one mass of silver. The
vessels used at the royal baptisms
are likewise kept here a silver
pedestal and basin, the chasing on
which represents the baptism of our
Sa aour. At the royal baptisms a
golden vessel of most beautiful work
manship is put inside this silver
basin ; and after the ceremony is com
pleted, the name of the child, with
the date of its birth, is engraved on
the gold.
The celebrated set of horse furni
ture, with a sword and pistols pre
sented by Christian IV. to his eldest
son on his marriage, in 1644, are of
great magnificence. The saddle and
bridle are of velvet, embroidered with
gold and pearls, the buckles set with
diamonds. The whole was made in
Paris, and cost one million francs !
The portraits here are numerous,
and, historically, very interesting.
The collection of Venetian glass is
exceedingly rare and very extensive,
perhaps unique -in that respect ; but
for specimens of the finest drinking
cups, milte fleurs, and other of the
choicest colours and forms, it is infe
rior to the celebrated collections of
Mr. Bernard of London, and Herr
39
C. F. Friedman, of Kcenigsberg, in
Prussia.
The glass which is here is of the
finest period of the Murano work
manship, and well arranged. The
best specimens are many of them un
usually large, particularly the dishes.
The old mode of making the beBt
Venetian glass is lost. Amongst other
things it consisted in making the
drinking cups, vases, &c, in pieces,
and then joining them by fusion. The
manufacture was originally established
in Venice, by workmen from Constan
tinople.
The system adopted here of hav
ing the objects arranged in separate
rooms according to the reigns during
which they have been collected, is
particularly convenient for historical
research, and renders the entire col
lection one of the most interesting
and instructive in the capital.
The Royal Money and Medallion
Cabinet is also in this castle, and is
particularly interesting on account of
its rich and complete collection of
ancient Danish coins ; there is, how
ever, no paucity of others, as the col
lection numbers 10,000 Grecian and
20, 000 Roman coins, also some Per
sian coins dug up in the island of
Falster and in Jutland. Among the
medals of modern date are some very
interesting ones by a Danish artist,
Mr. Christensen, struck in honour of
Thorwaldsen, and representing some
of his bas-reliefs.
The Palace of Charlottenborg is a
huge, desolate-looking building, situ
ated on the southern side of the Kongens Nyetorv. It has long ceased to
be a royal residence, and was given,
in 1778, to the Academy of Arts.
The spacious grounds were at the same
time converted into botanical gardens.
In addition to the collections of the
Academy contained in the palace, the
library, and schools of arts, many of
the professors have apartments in it.
It was here that Thorwaldsen resided
after his return from Italy, and at
10
koute 1.Copenhagen.ROYAL museum.
the time of his death. He was presi

dent of the academy. In the Hall of
Council, which is hung with portraits
of the presidents of the academy,
there is a fine one of Thorwaldsen.
The Gallery of Casts is in the
above palace, and forms part of the
Academy of Arts. It contains a
beautiful collection of castes from the
finest antique statues, also from the
works of Thorwaldsen, as well as a
few of his statues in marble, which
latter will probably be placed in his
museum. The cast of his 'Dancing
Nymph ' (with the right hand elevated
and holding a piece of drapery which
flows behind her) is perhaps the most
charming work of his here. He mo
delled this subject twice ; the above
was for Prince Metternich, the second
(in which the hand- is not elevated)
was for Prince Torlonia.
The Royal Museum is in the Dronningens Tvergade.The collection of
Egyptian antiquities in this museum
presents but few objects worthy of
notice. The specimens are few in
number, and, with perhaps the single
exception of a roll of papyrus in an
unusually good state of preservation,
will hardly repay the trouble of in
spection. Among the Grecian and
Roman antiquities are some fine mar
ble and bronze busts, particularly a
bust of Marcus Antoninus, somewhat
larger than life ; the neck and head
of bronze, with drapery of Egyptian
marble. A head cut in ivory, called
the head of Queen Helen, about half
the size of life, is also deserving of
notice. Numerous learned disquisition* have been written upon this
head, to ascertain whether it is a
genuine antique or an Italian produc
tion of later times. It is certainly
the work of no inferior artist. The
Roman antiquities were principally
brought from the neighbourhood of
ancient Carthage, where they were
discovered by the Danish consul at
Tunis. They consist of the ordinary
urns, vases, &c, a torso of a female
Denmark.
figure of somewhat colossal dimen

sions, and a large and very fine
mosaic.
The northern antiquities preserved
in this museum are to be re-arranged,
and those articles which are of stone,
flint, or metal are to be added to the
collection in the Christiansborg Pa
lace. At present the antiquities here
are divided into four sections.
1st. Antiquities of the North in
the heathen age (previous to the year
1000); clubs, knives, axes, &c, of
stone, fearful weapons, and such as
few men in these degenerate days
could wield. Monumental urns, 4 of
which are of gold, found near Egeskov, in the island of Funen, and
several of glass, in some of which
golden arm-rings were found. Wea
pons of metal, swords and daggers of
iron and copper, with some huge
metal war trumpets (Luuren) of the
old Norsemen. These were found in
a morass near Frederiksborg. Gold
and silver rings cut in two, to be
used as money before any coinage
was known in the North. Some
massive gold rings found near Slagelse, in Zealand, in the year 1816
(curiously embossed), and a number
of smaller golden ornaments found
near Odense in Funen. A gold ring
from near Bergen, with a Runic in
scription inlaid in some metallic sub
stance resembling lead. Drums co
vered with magic figures, and other
implements used by the heathen Lap
landers in their incantations.
2nd. Specimens connected with the
Roman Catholic form of worship ;
ancient coffers containing relics, and
a number of gold crosses, one of
which is said to contain a small
splinter of the real Cross ; a particle
of brown-looking wood certainly is
there, most carefully preserved, but
the evidence on which its claim is
founded does not appear. The cross
itself was found in the head of a
large figure of our Saviour which
stood in the cathedral at Roeskilde ;
Denmark, jboute 1. Copenhagen.eoyai. museum.

it is beautifully chased and set with
pearls and precious stones. Another
cross, enamelled in gold, is said to
have been found in the tomb of
Queen Dagmar, at Ringsted. A cross
made of a tooth of the sea-horse ; a
bishop's staff made of the horn of
the narval ; some curious specimens
of ancient calendars of wood and sil
ver, upon the explanation of which
no inconsiderable portion of learning
has been displayed. The first printed
Danish calendar (1530) consists of a
single strip of parchment printed on
both sides, and set in a frame of
ebony. An Icelandic calendar of
later date, of much more ample di
mensions, is likewise on parchment,
but a manuscript. There is also the
usual proportion of relics, rosaries,
&c, and some curious models in
cedar of the (so-called) Holy Sepul
chre at Jerusalem, and the church
built over it. *
3rd. Vessels of the middle ages ;
ancient dress of an Iceland bride ;
drinking horns and goblets in pro
fusion, but none deserving particular
notice.
4th. Armour of the age of chivalry
and more modern times ; coats of
mail, shields, helmets, and spurs.
Some of the scale armour is beauti
fully made, and the ancient air-guns
are extremely curious. This museum
has also a collection of cameos, inta
glios, &c. , some of which, particularly
a cameo of an elephant, and another
with comic masks, are productions of
merit. Among the general array of
curiosities in this museum may be
remarked a goblet of lapis lazuli with
* See a most interesting "Essay on the
Topography of Jerusalem, by Jas. Fergusson, 18*7, by which it appears that the
Holy Sepulchre lias remained in the jealous
keeping of the Mahometans ever since their
final conquest of Jerusalem that this
building, now known ns the Mosque of
Omar, is a Christian structure, and was
built by Constantino the Great over the
Holy Sepulchre, which still exists there,
" hewn out of a rock."
41
intaglios and a figure of Minerva in

silver on the cover ; an oval cup of
agate supported by a sea-god cut in
ivory, with a sea-horse lying at his
feet. There are also a few good mo
saics, particularly a table bought by
Frederick IV. in Florence. It is
worked in groups of birds, fruit, and
flowers, and set in a frame of silver
gilt.
In the rooms on the second floor are
some busts and models in silver, steel,
ebony, &c. An equestrian statue of
the Emperor Leopold by Leygeber
(1659) is composed of a single piece
of steel, and, considering the untractable material with which the artist
had to deal, it must be admitted to
be a wonderful production : a gad-fly
on the horse's leg is inimitably done.
Two groups of gipsies in ivory, with
clothes of wood and enamelled eyes,
are most curious productions. Among
the bas-reliefs is a shield of iron
richly inlaid with gold, on which is
represented a battle scene, beautifully
executed, and not unworthy of Cel
lini, whose work it is supposed to be,
An ivory relief of the taking our
Saviour from the Cross, and some
landscapes cut so as to be transparent,
are likewise deserving of notice. The
models of ships in ivory are exqui
site, particularly that of a frigate
with hull, mast, and sails of ivory,
and cannons and anchor of silver.
Some of the countless handiworks of
Peter the Great have found their way
even into this collection : among
others, an ivory snuff-box turned by
this royal artist, and embellished with
his portraita present from the Tzar
to Frederick IV. (1714). There are
some curious groups of figures cut in
red coral, a St. George and the Dra
gon, and Charon's boat with a freight
of passengers. An ivory staff used
by a Swedish general for conveying
letters, some curious specimens of
amber and tortoiseshell, &c, &c.
The ethnographic department, as it
is termed, consists of a collection of
uoute 1.Copenhagen.the university.

curiosities of various nations : Japan
ese, Chinese, Turkish, Caffre, &c, in
somewhat admired confusion. The Ja
panese division comprises boxes inlaid
with gold and mother-of-pearl, and
highly polished. Pipes, cups, &c,
with a variety of weapons, both of
offence and defence, and some entire
suits of armour. It cannot be com
pared, either for extent or choiceness
of its specimens, to the Japanese mu
seum at the Hague, although the
extreme rarity of such collections ren
ders them at all times objects of
interest to the traveller. Among the
Turkish curiosities are some most
warlike-looking trophies, and a mag
nificent Turkish standard, set with
turquoises and adorned with gold and
silver. These, together with a very
splendid cimetar, were the fruits of
the conquests achieved by a valiant
Danish admiral, Cort Adeler, in the
Venetian service (1654), who slew the
Turkish admiral, and took from him
this "Damascus blade," which was
afterwards worn in battle by the
Danish king. The most curious of
the models in this division of the
museum is one of a S. American
cottage, covered with leaves of the
palm-tree, containing models of all
the arms and utensils of the natives,
clubs, bows and arrows, hammocks,
&c. Some ivory trumpets from the
coast of Guinea, with rude fantastic
cuttings on them ; and the Rupak
riags, which the Caffres wear round
their arms, are the only remaining
specimens worthy of note in this col
lection, except the model of a Green
land Cajak, containing a fisherman
and his implements.
The Royal Museum of Natural
History, on the Storm Gade, is open
to the public on Sunday and Wednes
day, from 10 till 2 ; it contains a
very extensive collection of shells and
minerals. It is peculiarly rich in
insects, comprising an immense num
ber from Brazil, the East Indies, and
the Cape of Good Hope, as well as
Denmark.
those found in Europe. It also pos

sesses a great variety of birds, both
European and American, and fish and
reptiles, both stuffed and preserved
in spirits, in almost endless succes
sion, amongst which groups of croco
diles, some from Batavia, others from
Senegal, the Nile, and St. Domingo,
are conspicuous. The department of
comparative anatomy is of only recent
origin, but it already numbers above
200 skeletons, with skulls and frag
ments innumerable ; amongst others
the skull of the sea-horse, in all its
various successive stages, from the
foetus to its perfect size, is extremely
curious. The most remarkable objects
in the collection of minerals are the
Kongsberg mass of silver, about 6
feet long, 2 feet broad, and 8 inches
thick, the largest piece of silver in
the world some portions of the
earthy substance no doubt still re
main, but by far the larger portion is
supposed to be of pure silver ; a
second mass is entirely composed of
pure silver^ but of far inferior dimen
sions to the former, being about 18
inches high and about 12 inches in
length and breadth ; some unusually
large pieces of amber and rock crys
tal ; several rare fossils from Green
land ; meteoric stones, and a portion
of the celebrated meteoric iron found
in Siberia, called after Professor
Pallas.
The University of Copenhagen, is
the best in the North : the number of
the students is calculated to be gene
rally from 1100 to 1200, a great num
ber out of a population of 1 4 million,
particularly when it is borne in mind
that the young men of the Duchies
generally pursue their studies at the
German University of Kiel. This is,
however, accounted for by the custom
which prevails in Denmark of intrust
ing no high government office, and
very few even of the most subordinate
places in them, to any one who has
not passed his examinations at one of
the Universities of the country. The
Denmark.
isoute 1.thokwaldsen's museum.
number of the Professors, who are

divided into 4 faculties, is 37, besides
2 Lectors. There are several foun
dations connected with the University,
to facilitate the labours of the more
necessitous class of students ; that
these are not, however, on a very
luxurious scale, may be judged from
one of them, called the Regent's, a
large gloomy-looking building in the
Kibbmagers-gade, opposite the Church
of the Trinity. It was founded and
endowed by Christian IV., to provide
free dwellings for poor students. The
house contains rooms for 100 students,
who live two and two together in two
small rooms, only one of which is
furnished with a stove. For each
stove there is an allowance of 1^ cord
of wood for the winter. But though
the bodily requirements of the Danish
student are thus scantily provided
for, in moral health, mental vigour,
and intellectual acquirements, he
yields the palm to none. The build
ing containing the lecture-rooms of the
University is
The Universitets Bygninyen, a
stately edifice, completed in 1836,
and situated near the Frue Kirhe.
On the staircase are the casts of 2
figures by Bissen, Minerva and
Apollo, which are to be replaced by
the same figures in marble, ordered
by the students, and to be paid for by
voluntary contributions.
The University Library is over
the Church of the Trinity, and is
entered from the round tower. It
contains 100,000 volumes of printed
books, besides a large collection of
valuable manuscripts. The readingroom here is open every week-day
from 11 to 2, but fresh books are not
given out after 1.
The University Museum of Natural
History (called the Moltke collection)
contains shells, insects, birds, and
reptiles, but nothing of sufficient in
terest to repay the trouble of inspec
tion.
The A nlhropologische Museum con
43
tains a valuable collection of anato

mical preparations. For admission
apply to Herr Professor S. A. W.
Stein, Amalie-gade, No. 142.
Classensche Bibliothek (Classen's Li
brary, se called from the name of the
founder) is in the Amalie-gade. It
contains 40, 000 volumes, and is open
to the public on Tuesdays, Wednes
days, Thursdays, and Fridays, from 11
to 2.
Besides the University there are
in Copenhagen several other scien
tific institutions. Pre-eminent among
these are the Military High School,
situated between the palace of Charlottenborg and the theatre, and the
Polytechnic School, in St. Peterstrade.
Reading Clubs, There are several
in Copenhagen, to which strangers
may obtain access by applying to the
directors of the club-house, or to one
of the members. The best is the
A Oieneeum (Ostergade, No. 68),. which
has a library of upwards of 10,000
volumes in all European languages,
and in which foreign newspapers are
kept. Strangers are admitted gratis
during one week ; after that time they
must pay a monthly subscription of 1
rix dollar.
Thorwaldsen's Museum is close upon
the north side of the Christiansborg
Palace. The collection here is of the
deepest interest, and for the lovers of
art alone worth the journey from
England. For the number and
beauty of the works it contains, all
the creation of one man, it is alike
unique and astonishing. How beau
tiful and cheering an instance this
museum affords of what may be accom
plished by true genius and unflinching
industry, and that even when life is
commenced under themostadverse cir
cumstances. Albert Thorwaldsen was
the son of a poor ship-carpenter from
Iceland, and was born in Copenhagen,
in 1770. Unnoticed, or neglected in
Copenhagen, his genius at an early
age impelled him to Borne, where he
It
routu 1.thorwaldsen's museum.
arrived almost penniless ; but, having

soon afterwards obtained employment
in Canova's studio, his talent quickly
developed itself by the beauty and
genius of his designs. Ultimately he
took a studio of his own, and mo
delled his statue of "Jason," but as
he obtained no order for it, and
could make no way in Rome, he in
despair determined to quit it and re
turn to Denmark. All his arrange
ments were actually made for that
purpose, when Mr. Hope, of London,
seeing the cast of Jason, was so much
struck with its beauty that he imme
diately ordered it in marble. This
turned the tide of Thorwaldsen's for
tune, and from that time his fame
was established, and commissions
poured in upon him. He fixed his
residence in Rome, making occasional
visits to Denmark, his Scandinavian
home, to which his heart always
yearned alike in prosperity as in ad
versity. He never married. The
gifts of his various beautiful works
for the decoration of the Frue Kirke
long preceded his final return to
Denmark, which took place in 1838.
With an ample fortune, elected
President of the Academy of Arts,
a suite of apartments allotted him in
the palace of Charlottenborg, decorated
with the highest orders of merit
of his own and other lands, and
adored by all who knew him, he
finally settled in Copenhagen, and de
voted himself to the duties of his
office. The following is an interesting
and characteristic anecdote connected
with his last birth-day, which was
celebrated at a friend's house in the
country. ' ' I had written a merry
little song, and it was hardly dry on
the paper when he sang it in the
early morning before his door, accom
panied by the music of jingling fireirons, gongs, and bottles. Thorwaldsen, in his morning gown and slippers,
opened his door and danced round his
chamber, swung round his Raphael's
cap, and joined in the chorus. There
Denmark.
was life and mirth in the strong old

man!" (Hans C. Andersen's True
Story of his Life, p. 173.) He died
suddenly at the theatre, in 18-14,
being then in his 74th year.
Thorwaldsen having intimated his
intention of presenting the casts of
all his works, as well as several of his
statues in marble, to his native town,
the present site was chosen, and the
building erected for their reception.
The cost was defrayed by public sub
scription.
It forms a parallelogram, having a
spacious court-yard in the midst of it,
in the centre of which a mausoleum is
constructed to receive the remains of
the great artist. The exterior walls
of the building are decorated with
groups of figures illustrative of the
events connected with the formation
of the museum. These decorations
are of coloured stucco, the invention
of a Danish artist. Over the princi
pal entrance is a colossal statue of
Fame, in a car drawn by four horses,
in bronze by Professor Bissen. The
building in itself is hideous, but the
interior arrangements are admirably
well adapted to the purpose for which
they are required.
All the interior of the Museum is
decorated in the Pompeian style,
each room of different colour and
designs.
The total number of Thorwaldsen's
works collected here is about 650.
A large hall, extending the whole
width of the front, is devoted to casts
of the equestrian statue of the Em
peror Maximilian, of Poniatowsky, and
most of the other colossal works. The
triumph of Alexander forms the frieze
of this hall. At the other end of the
building, opening into, and nearly of
equal width with the court-yard, is
the Hall of Christ, which contains
casts of all the statues in the Frue
Kirke. Here alone can the beauty of
that wondrous statue of the Christ be
seen and properly appreciated. It is
beyond compare the finest conception
Denmark,
route 1.Copenhagen. fhue kibke.
which has ever been executed of the

subject.
Around three sides of the court
yard runs a wide passage filled with
casts of various statues, &c. The
space between this passage and the
outer wall of the two sides of the
museum is divided into a side en
trance on the south, and twenty-two
rooms, eleven on each side. Most of
them are small, but are all admirably
lighted, and contain a single statue or
group, with the most appropriate basreliefs let into the walls, and chiefly
executed in marble. This mode of
arrangement is admirable, as it ena
bles visitors to see the works to the
best advantage. The playful fancy
and endless variety of the small basreliefs are charming. The gems of
the collection are considered to be the
group of Hector and Priam, the Gany
mede den skjcenkende (the pourer),
the Caryatides, the dying Lion, and
the beautiful relievi of Night and
Morning, which have a European re
putation.
The upper rooms are devoted to the
smaller casts, including a long array
of busts which are by far the least
meritorious of Thorwaldsen's works ;
also to the collection of antique sculp
ture, bronzes, vases, coins, &c. , which
he made at Rome. One small room
here is particularly interesting ; it
contains the furniture of his sittingroom as it was at his death, and ar
ranged in the same order. Here may
be seen a cast of the bust of Luther,
which Thorwaldsen commenced the
day he died.
The small collection of pictures by
modern artists which he left are of
little merit, with a few exceptions.
Amongst the latter is a portrait of
Thorwaldsen, by Horace Vernet, an
admirable likeness. It bears this in
scription by the artist. "Horace
Vernet, a son illustre ami Thorwald
sen. Home, 1835."
In addition to the works and ob
jects arranged here, and a vast num
45
ber of his sketches both in chalk and

pen and ink, Thorwaldsen also be
queathed a fund of 60,000 Danish
dollars to the trustees of this museum,
for the purchase of works by Danish
artists.
Churches. The Church of our
Lady (Vor Frue Kirke) was almost
destroyed in the bombardment of
1807, but has been entirely renovated.
The view from the tower of this church
is extensive and interesting. Beneath,
the whole city lies outspread, encir
cled by its massive bastions, the
Sound covered with white sails, and
the coast of Sweden forming the back
ground, while to the west a long wide
plain, interspersed here and there
with woods and lakes, stretches as
far as the eye can reach. The palace
of Fredericksborg, on a rising ground
about 2 English miles from the tfity,
with its white walls rising above the
thick plantations round it, appears
almost close to the city ramparts. This
royal residence formed the head-quar
ters of the English army in 1807, and
in a field almost immediately adjoin
ing the park are the traces of the
British batteries which poured de
struction on the devoted city.
The effect of the exterior of this
church is ruined by the smallness of
the portico. The interior is imposing
from its great simplicity and the
beauty of its proportions. The works
of Thorwaldsen are its only ornament.
When the commissioners to whom was
intrusted the re-erection of this me
tropolitan church consulted the great
artist as to their undertaking, Thor
waldsen conceived the idea of exe
cuting for its decoration a series of
works which, beginning from the pedi
ment and the peristyle and ending at
the altar, should form together one
great composition. "With the excep
tion of a few minor works, this beau
tiful idea is now realized, and renders
the church one of the most interesting
in Europe.
As an introduction to the works in
10
ROUTE T.
COPENHAGEN". FRUE KIRKE.
the interior of the church, the pedi

ment is decorated with an alto-relievo
in terra cotta, which represents John
the Baptist preaching in the wilder
ness, announcing the coming of the
Lordthe frieze over the entrance be
neath the portico illustrates his entry
into Jerusalem.
Within the church, upon the right
on entering, is a charming bas-relief
suggested by Thorwaldsen's own ca
reer. A child is walking and looking
upwards to heaven for aid, while it
is followed by an angel whose hand
is extended over the child's head.
"Childhood's aid," this is called.
On the left is another group, "Ma
ternal Love," which represents a
mother with her children. These
bassi-relievi are over the alms-boxes.
In the body of the church are the
figures of the 12 apostles (that of St.
Paul being substituted for Judas),
somewhat larger than life, ranged 6
on each side between the windows,
and almost touching the walls, while
a colossal figure of our Saviour over
the altar looks as if in the act of
blessing the assembled throng of wor
shippers. Difficult as it must always
be in marble, where the soul cannot
speak through the eye, to give full
expression to a countenance intended
to be animated only by the softer and
holier feelings, no one can gaze with
out awe and reverence on the calm
âjesty of that placid brow. It is
indeed a masterly conception of the
artist, at once the man of sorrows
and the Deity, an offering not un
worthy of the holy place it adorns, or
the being whom it is meant to honour.
The figures of the apostles are in keep
ing with the character of the chief
figure. In each are manifested the
peculiar characteristics of the indi
vidual, but all are simple and noble.
The kneeling angel holding in her
outstretched arms the concha which
serves as a baptismal font is poetic
in conception and masterly in execu
tion. Bound the chancel runs a frieze
Denmark-
representing our Saviour on his way

to Golgotha. In the Sacristy on the
right is a fine bas-relief of the Last
Supper ; and in a room on the left of
the altar is "the Baptism of Christ,"
full of the most refined conception
and charmingly executed.
tf
All these works are indeed of great
excellence and deserving of the highest
praise. They are also well situated
and admirably lighted, with the single
exception of the Christ, the effect of
which is much injured from being
placed in a niche behind the altar,
and surmounted by a canopy sup
ported on pillars. If the whole of
this niche and canopy were removed,
so that the statue might stand clear
in relief against the wall, its effect
would be beautiful, as may be seen
from the cast of it in the Museum.
Let no one leave Copenhagan if pos
sible without seeing that cast. Of
the Apostles those of St. Peter and
St. Paul were alone entirely modelled
by Thorwaldsen himself. The Christ
and all the others were modelled from
Thorwaldsen's sketches by his pupils
and only finished by himself. The
St. James, with his palmer's hat slung
behind him, was the great sculptor's
favourite of these statues.
Too much can scarcely be said in
praise of the kneeling angel which
forms the font. It is a lovely statue.
The first child christened from it was
that of the Professor Bissen, th
favourite pupil of Thorwaldsen. The
king, queen, and royal family at
tended upon the occasion, and were
grouped around this font, Thorwaldsen
acting as sponsor.
Before the completion of the Mu
seum, Thorwaldsen's remains were
placed here : the coflin for many years
rested in a recess hung with black,
upon the right of the entrance, covered
with faded wreaths, placed there by a
mourning nation. Never in modern
times have higher honours been paid
to genius and goodness, or more de
servedly so, than were bestowed upon
Denmark,
eoute 1. Copenhagen.churches, etc.
Thorwaldsen. In life every Bane,

from the king to the humblest of his
subjects, vied in doing honour to
their illustrious countryman. His
death was felt as a national calamity,
and his remains were followed to the
Frue Kirke by the king and royal
family, with all the officers of state,
and amidst the lamentations of the
whole population. His memory is
held in the deepest veneration and
respect by all classes alike, for his
genius, his goodness, and his pa
triotism ; there are few offences a
Dane will not more readily forgive
than anything said in disparagement
of Thorwaldsen or his works.
It has been said that he neglected
his relations and country in his earlier
career. After his death his executors
discovered the entire correspondence
of the most eventful period of his
life wedged into a solid mass in a
tub, and forgotten. These letters en
tirely exonerate him from the charge,
and form a most valuable and inter
esting link in the history of his life.
The Tower of the Trinity Church
(known as "The Round Tower") has
on its summit the observatory ; a
broad spiral ascent winds within the
tower, up which Peter the Great,
during his residence here in the year
1716, used to amuse himself with
riding, attended on one occasion by
the empress in a coach and four. The
view from this tower is almost as ex
tensive as that from the Frue Kirke.
In the Church of the Holy Ghost
(Helliggeistes Kirke) is a painting
representing Luther at the Diet of
Worms, by Adam Miiller, a promising
Danish artist, who died very young.
The remaining churches contain few
monuments worth mentioning as pro
ductions of art. The Frederick Church
still continues in an unfinished state,
and all idea of completing it appears
to be at present entirely given up.
Had the original design been fully
carried into effect, it would have been
a superb building ; at present it is
47
little more than a melancholy ruin.

The Church of our Redeemer (Vor
Frelsers Kirke), on the isle of Amak,
has a curious tower of considerable
height, with a wide staircase winding
round the outside. The altar-piece
represents the agony of our Saviour in
the garden of Gethsemane ; beside
him stands an angel comforting him ;
two other figures complete the group.
The organ is considered the finest in
Copenhagen.
In Store Kongensgade, No. 51,
there is a shabby little chapel in which
service is performed every Sunday ac
cording to the rites of the Church of
England, by the chaplain of the Em
bassy. The service commences at 11
o'clock.
There is a Roman Catholic chapel
m Bredgade.
The Jewish synagogue in Krystal
Gade is a handsome building in the
oriental style, and by the richness of
its decorations proves that the Jews of
Denmark are a flourishing community.
Hospitals. The principal ones in
the city are Frederick's Hospital
in Bredgade, with room for 300 pa
tients, and Almindelig Hospital in
Amaliegade, with room for the same
number of patients. In Denmark no
prejudice exists against hospitals, and
it is not unusual for persons belonging
to the wealthier classes of the com
munity to prefer the hospital in case
of severe illness, in order to ensure
that care and punctual attendance of
the physician, which they cannot ob
tain at home. Such patients may
have private apartments at a very
moderate expense.
About 4 m. from Copenhagen there
is an Orthopcedic Institution, which
is said to be very good, and the terms
of which are moderate.
The Consistorial Huus is a curious
remnant of ancient times, being part,
of a house belonging to the former
bishop of RoeskSde, which escaped
the fire of 1720, that reduced to
ashes all the surrounding buildings.
48
route 1. cofokhaoek.theatbes, etc.
Theatre*. Immediately adjoining

the Charlottenborg Palace is the prin
cipal Theatre, holding about 1200
persons. It is royal property and
managed by 5 directors appointed by
the king. During the season, which
extends from 1st Sept. to 1st June, it
is open every night in the week, Sun
days not excepted, and during the in
tervening months it is lent to the
actors who may choose to give per
formances at their own expense and
for their own benefit. It is dedicated
to the opera and ballet as well as to
tragedy and comedy. The opera is
mediocre, but the ballet is considered
superior to that of any of the secondrate towns in Europe.
The Hof Theater, attached to the
palace of Christiansborg, has of lati
years been occupied during the winter
months by an Italian operatic com
pany, of most moderate pretensions.
They perform three evenings in the
week only ; on the other nights the
theatre is frequently devoted to con
certs and other musical entertain
ments. A small theatre beyond the
western gate is generally occupied by
foreign companies, and indeed it is
suited for nothing better than strolling
players.
The favourite theatre of the hum
bler classes is the Moerskabs Theater,
also situated in the suburb of Vesterbro, and which is exclusively dedi
cated to pantomimic performances and
rope dancing.
The Tiroli Gardens, immediately
beyond the western gate, are now be
come the most fashionable place of
resort during the summer evenings.
The taste with which they are laid
out, the splendour of the fetes ar
ranged for the amusement of the
public, justify the patronage which
they enjoy. The price of an entrance
ticket is 1 mark.
A new place of amusement, the
Alhambra, has lately been opened,
where concerts, ballet3, and dramatic
performances are given.
Denmark.
Balhs.The most elegant bathing

establishment in Copenhagen is that
of the Ryssensteens Bastion, close to
one of the bridges that connect the
town with the island of Amak. There
are here warm baths of all descrip
tions, besides the sea-baths which are
built along a pier stretching out into
the sea, and combining the comfort
and privacy of a bath-room with the
advantage of bathing in the sea itself.
A handsomely-furnished saloon and
a pretty garden are open to visitors
who may wish to rest before or after
the bath. There are also furnished
apartments to be let in the establish
ment, for the convenience of invalids,
and a restaurant where all kinds of
refreshments can be had. The price
of a warm bath is 3 marks, of a seabath 20 skillings. For a warm bath
sent out of the house, the charge is
1 rix dollar.
In the IHtel da Nord in the Kongens Nyetorv there are also warm
baths, and in Amalie'-gade, No. 15,
is an excellent establishment for Rus
sian steam -baths.
The Exchange.This picturesque
building, which is situated on the
Slotholm or Castle Island, nearly in
front of the palace, has a curious
tower covered with lead, the spire of
which is composed of the tails of four
dragons twisted together, the heads
of these " linden worms" being turned
to the four points of the compass.
The interior of the building, which
deserves the name of a bazaar rather
than an exchange, contains nothing
worth notice. There is a tradition
for it hardly amounts to morethat
Christian IV. brought the spire away
from Kalmar, in Sweden, as a trophy
of his victory.
Statues. With the exception of the
works of Thorwaldsen, the Danish
capital can boast of little in the way
of sculpture. It possesses two eques
trian statues, one of Christian V., made
of lead, in the Kongens Nyetorv,
twice the size o life, erected in 1688.
Denmark,
route 1. Copenhagen. china manufactory.
It 13 a heavy-looking production, and

certainly no man living, without some
explanation, could make out the alle
gorical groupsurrounding the monarch.
The horse is trampling upon a figure
of Envy ; and the four corners of the
stone pedestal are likewise ornamented
with figures intended to represent
Wisdom, Valour, Magnanimity (Alex
ander cutting the Gordian Knot), and
Honour (a figure supporting a pyra
mid) : the other statue is that of
Frederick V. in the Frederick's Place
(also of metal), erected at the expense
of the Asiatic Company at Copenhagen
in 1768. The pedestal is of white
Italian marble ; the entire height is
36 feet ; the horse is as clumsy as the
figure of the king is ridiculously small.
A far more interesting monument
than these monarchs on their prancing
chargers is the plain and simple
column called the Statue of Liberty,
situated beyond the city walls, near
the western gate, on the way to the
Koeskilde railway. It was erected in
commemoration of the abolition of
feudal servitude in 1788, by the late
King Christian VII. The column is
of Bornholm stone, and bears on its
four sides suitable inscriptions. On
the E. side is a bas-relief representing
a "soil-bound slave," in the act of
bursting his feudal fetters, while on
the W. another bas-relief represents
the Goddess of Justice. At the four
corners of the base are four emble
matical figures of Fidelity, Agricul
ture, Valour, and Patriotism. The
expense of this monument was de
frayed by a national subscription, and
the noble deed of the monarch which
it records has indeed brought forth its
befitting fruits in the minds of the
Danish nation. Frederick VI., then
crown prince, was the author of this
enlightened policy, and the name by
which he is designated on the column,
"The People's Friend," is that by
which he has ever since been distin
guished among his subjects.
In the Naval Cemetery, a short dis
49
tance outside the E. gate, stands an

obelisk hewn out of a single block
of Norwegian marble : it bears this
simple inscription:"They fell for
their country, April 2, 1801 ;" be
neath which is written, "The grati
tude of their fellow-citizens erected
this monument." Plain and unpre
tending, this grey column records more
truly and faithfully the affection and
regret of their surviving friends for
the gallant men who laid down their
lives for their country, than the
pompous monuments too often erected
to monarchs who have sacrificed thou
sands of victims to their own wild
and selfish ambition, alike destructive
to their own interests and their sub
jects' welfare.
No Englishman can look on this
funeral column, overshadowed by its
encircling oaks and pines, without
lamenting that murderous struggle in
which these bold Danes and as many
gallant Britons met their fate.
Round the column are strewn large
blocks of rough granite, bearing the
names of the officers who fell in that
memorable engagement.
The Royal China Manufactory in
the Little Kjobmager-gade should be
visited. Here may be purchased the
most beautiful souvenirs of Copen
hagen, as several of Thorwaldsen's
best statues have been njodelled in
biscuit china. The Christ and the
Kneeling Angel are most faithfully
executed. Each figure costs 10 rix
d., but a drawback of 10 per cent, is
allowed at the Custom House when
the purchase amounts to 50 d. or up
wards. The porters at the manufac
tory pack these statues so well that
they will travel any distance with
safety. The best plan is to send the
case direct to England by the St.
Petersburg steamer, addressed to some
agent or friend who will pass it at the
Custom House.
The best Restaurateurs in the city
are Vincent (French), Kongens Nytorv, No. 5 ; Marfleet (English),
D
50
route 1.Copenhagen.shops, DBOSius.
Hbibroplads, No. 39 ; Fousanee,

Ostergade, No. 70 ; Pethou, Kongens
Nytorv, No. 3. The table d'hote at 3
o'clock in the Hotel Royal is very
good.
Shops.The best Booksellers are
Reitzelsche, Store Kjobmager-gade,
No. 6 ; Gyldendalsche, Klareboderne,
No. 8, and Philipsen, Store Kjbbmager-gade, No. 12. At all these, maps
and guide-books, &c. may be had. At
Bing and Son's at the corner of the
Pilestrrede and the Kronprindsensgade, No. 84, and also at Meyer's,
Pilestrajde, No. 80, stationery, draw
ing materials, and views of Copen
hagen are kept.
Music-sellers. The Royal music
and instrument warehouse of Olsen,
in the Viingaardstoede, No. 144 ;
Lose and Delbanco, Gothers-gade, No.
348 ; and Hornemann and Erslew,
Gammel Amager-torv, No. 3, where
collections of Scandinavian national
airs may be had.
Droskis. Fare, 1 m. 8sk. ior&tour
within the walls, whatever may be the
distance. With luggage in going from
the steamers to the hotels, or to the
Korsbr Railway, 3 m. are usually
paid.
Omnibuses run frequently to several
places in the environs, as well as to
meet the different trains at the rail
way station.
The pavement of Copenhagen is
almost universally bad ; in many parts
of the city it is distressing in the
extreme to the foot-passenger an
inconvenience which the heat of the
summer renders more trying.
Steamers.-The following is a list of
the Government steamers : there are
also numerous private steamers, but
their days of sailing are frequently
altered. All information about them
is to be obtained at the hotels. To
Aalborg, Mondays and Thursdays at
3 P.M. To Aarhuus, Fridays at 7
a. St. To Bandholm, Mondays at 7
a.m. To Christiania, Wednesdays at
1 p.m., calling at Gottenburg, and at
Denmark.
ports in the Christiania Fjord. To

Elsinore and Helsingborg, daily at
3.30 p.m. To Kiel, Mondays and
Thursdays at 2 P. M. To Koniysbery,
four times a month. To Lubeck, Sun
days at 2 p.m., and Wednesdays at
12. To Malmo, in Sweden, daily at
10 a.m., and on Wednesdays at 3.30
p.m. To Nj/kjoping, in the island of
Falster, on Saturdays at 7 a.m. To
Banders, on Mondays at 3 p.m. To
Stettin and Svinemunde, Tuesdays at
3 p.m. To Wismar, Tuesdays and
Fridays at 3 p.m. To Ystadt, and
Bornholm, Mondays at 7 a.m.
Noneegian Boat.To Christiania
every Wednesday at 1 P. m. returning
here on the following Tuesday ; calls
at Gottenburg, and at various places
in the Christiania Fjord on the Thurs
day, at one of which it meets the
Norwegian boat going nmnd the coast
to Christiansand and Bergen, Route
25. Fare to Christiania, 8 specie, or
16 rigsbank dollars ; average passage
42 hours, several of which are passed
at Gottenburg.
English Boats. From London to
St. Petersburg, calling here on her
way out and home, weekly during the
Baltic season. The steamers between
Hull and St. Petersburg also call here.
The boat, which leaves Amsterdam on
the 1st and 15th of every month for
St. Petersburg, and the Amsterdam
and Stockholm boat also touch here.
. Passports of travellers going to
Sweden must bear the signature of a
Swedish minister, or consul, or a
Swedish passport must be taken on
arriving at Stockholm, office of Swedish
and Norwegian Consul, Kronprindsesse-gade, No. 396. If there is
cholera in Copenhagen, it is impossible
to enter Sweden without enduring
several days' quarantine at Elsinore,
as well as the Swedish port, where
the traveller lands. Passports are
not retained by the authorities in Co
penhagen as formerlythey are only
kept till the departure of travellers,
and are then viti and returned upon
Denmark,
route I. Copenhagen.the cemetery.
demand. Upon informing the land

lords of the hotels when the passports
will be wanted, they will obtain them.
Berths cannot be taken by any of the
steamers without production of pass
ports, which are delivered up at the
same time, and not returned before
the end of the voyage.
The environs of Copenhagen contain
many objects which will amply repay
the trouble of a visit ; $ m. beyond
the western gate is the palace of Frederiksberg, situated upon the only
eminence in the neighbourhood. The
view from the terrace of the palace,
ranging alike over land and sea, is
very fine. The grounds that surround
the palace are laid out in the English
style, and are open to the public, with
whom they are a favourite place of
resort. On Wednesdays and Sundays
in particular they are crowded with
visitors, mostly belonging to the lower
orders, who evince the greatest taste
for the beauties of nature, and know
no greater delight than taking their
tea and supper in the open air, of a
summer's evening. The environs of
Copenhagen are in consequence crowded
with tea gardens of all descriptions,
some of which are also frequented by
the opulent classes. The best of these
is Kehlet's, situated in the beautiful
avenue of splendid horse-chestnuts
and lime trees, about an English mile
in length, which leads from the suburb
of Vesterbroe to the entrance of the
Frederiksberg Park, and is lined on
both sides with pretty villas.
The Cemetery (Assistents Kerkegard) is outside the N. gate. It re
sembles a large garden rather than a
cemetery. Totally devoid of show and
pretence, it is divided into an immense
number of small compartments, each
the last resting-place of a family, and
intersected in all directions by gravel
walks. A sepulchral urn with a brief
inscription of the life and merits of
him who rests below is the most fre
quent memorial of the dead, while
many grave-stones contain nothing
51
more than the simple words fbd (born),

and dbd (died), with perchance some
few "holy texts strewed around."
It is a favourite walk of the people of
the capital, of all classes, to visit this
"field of God," and deck with flowers
the narrow beds of those near and dear
to them, who sleep around. ' ' It was
only towards the close of the last cen
tury," says Professor Nyerup, "that
a man of singular virtue and probity
was able by his example to put an end
to that superstitious and pestilential
practice of burying beneath the
churches, and thus infecting the living
with the mephitic exhalations of the
tomb. On the brink of eternity he
felt conscious that he had wrought no
ill to his fellow men in his life, and
he could not bear the thought that
after death his mortal remains should
poison the air they breathed : his
dying wish was to rest beneath the
'free heaven.' He was buried here
a.d. 1785, and a plain marble tablet
bears the initials of his name J. S. A.,
with the words bene vixit qui bene
latuit. From that time the church
ground has rapidly spread, until it
has become the garden of the departed,
where they repose in peace beneath
their flowery covering ;it is a holy
and solemn place where the wanderer
is awakened to deep and sincere devo
tion, and memory consecrates her offer
ing of a tear to departed friends. "
To the north of the city runs a road,
having on the one side the waters of
the Sound and a view of the Swedish
coast and the little island of Hveen,
with the ruins of Tycho Brahe's famous
observatory, Uranienborg, and on the
other a succession of pretty villas and
beautiful beech woods. One of the
latter, called Charlottenlund, about 1
mile from the capital, is much fre
quented by its inhabitants during the
summer months ; 4 mile from Char
lottenlund commences the magnificent
and extensive forest called the Royal
Deer Park (Dyrhave) ; on a plain in
the middle of this forest there is
d 2
52
koute 2.losdok to copenhagex.
yearly, in the months of June and

July, a kind of fair, which affords a
most excellent opportunity for observ
ing the .manners and tastes of the
lower orders of Danes. Here, as
elsewhere, the upper classes are seen
mingling with the lower, and are
never, in any way, annoyed by them.
A place of more fashionable resort, in
the Deer Park, is Klampenbory, a hy
dropathic establishment, situated on
a wooded bank overhanging the Sound,
and with which are combined all the
amusements which belong to a fashion
able watering-place. On an eminence
in the Deer Park is a royal hunting
lodge, called The Hermitage, whence
a romantic road leads through the
forest to an inn called Fortunen, from
which there is a tine view of Copen
hagen. The woods and gardens sur
rounding the royal summer residence
of Sorgcnfrie, situated near the vil
lage of Lyngbye, about
m. from
- Copenhagen, are also crowded with
visitors from the capital, during the
summer.
Steamers run to the Deer Park on
Sundays.
Frederitsdal, Sagsvaerd, Brcde,
Strandmollen, Orholm, and Drowningyaard are the names of other beauti
ful spots in the vicinity of Copen
hagen, and a trip to Mben, in Route
9, should not be neglected.
ROUTE 2.
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY RAILWAY
FKOM OSTEND TO COLOGNE, IIANOVER,
HAMBURG, AND KIEL.
Steamers from Blackwall Pier in
summer 4 times a week. The days
vary, but the boats always start in the
morning according to the tide. The
vessels belong to the General Steam
Navigation Company. Average pas
sage, 12 hours, about 7 of which are
occupied in descending the Thames.
Fares, chief cabin, 18s. ; fore cabin,
1 is. (There are more frequent oppor- |
Denmark.
tunities of reaching London from Ostend than from Antwerp or Rotter

dam). Trains leave the railway sta
tion in Fenchurch Street for Blackwall
every J of an hour during the day
(Sundays excepted), from 8 a.m. to
9f p.m. On Sundays there is no
train from 10ij till 1. Fares, 1st
class, 6rf.
H. M. Steam-packets, alternately
with those of the Belgian Government,
run l>etween Dover and Ostend every
night, except Sunday, on the arrival
of the train, which leaves London
bridge at 8. 30 p. M. Average passage,
4 \ hours. Fares from London, first
class, 1/. 17*. 9d. ; second, 11. 5s. 3d.
The South-Eastern Steam-packets,
which ran between Ramsgate and
Ostend every morning, are with
drawn.
Belgian Money. Accounts are
kept in francs and centimes.
5 centimes make 1 sous ; about a
half-penny F.nglish.
20 sous, or 100 centimes, 1 franc ;
about 9^c?. English.
There is no small paper money.
The current coin is of gold, silver, and
copper. The best to take is gold, Na
poleons of 20 f. each, and silver
pieces of 5, 2, 1, and 4 fThe money-changers in Ostend usu
ally allow about 25 f. 50 c. each for
sovs. , and Prussian money may gene
rally be purchased here.
Ostend. Inns: H6tel d'Allemagne, close to the railroad station,
is now the best and most convenient.
The other houses are some distance
off in the town, where the smells from
the open gutters are" abominable.
Hotel des Bains, table d'hote, 3 f. ;
4 bottle of wine, 1 f. 50 c. ; bed,
1 f. 50 c. ; tea or breakfast, 1 f. 50
c, which may be taken as the
average charges of the best inns here.
Cour Imperiale. Lion d'Or; quiet.
Hotel de Flandres.
The Passport Office and Custom
House are both near the harbour ;
and, in summer, open at 5 a.m. to
Denmark,
route 2.by ostend, cologne, hanoveb, etc.
prevent passengers being delayed.

There is an English chapel here.
There is nothing of interest in the
town. Those who are delayed here
will find the sandhills and shore upon
the S. side of the town an agreeable
and picturesque walk.
N.B. As the Hand-book for
Northern Germany fully details
all particulars as regards the
towns, &c. , upon this route, they
will only be so far alluded to
here as may be considered actu
ally requisite ; further than that
the limits of this book will not
admit of.
Railroad; Ostend to Cologne.
The morning train, which runs the
whole distance, leaves about 6. Time
tables will be found in all the hotels
at Ostend. Distance, 210 Eng. m.
Time, about 10 hours. Fare, 1st
class, 33 f. ; 40 lbs. luggage allowed,
and beyond that paid for. A number
is given to each passenger, and a cor
responding one fixed upon his luggage.
It is better for passengers not to re
tain any of their baggage in their
own possession on leaving Ostend, as
they are not allowed to do so on pass
ing the Prussian frontier. If baggage
be properly directed and numbered,
it is most rare that it is lost or mis
carried.
The principal towns upon this line
are
Bruges.Inns: Hotel de Flandres, near the station ; excellent and
moderate charges. Table d'hote at 1 .
Hotel de Commerce, tolerably good
and cheap. Fleur de B16. Ours
d'Or.
Time, from Ostend here, 35 m.
Population, 49, 437. A most interest
ing old town. Principal objects :
the Grande Place ; Cathedral ; Notre
Dame ; Hospital of St. John ; Hotel
de Ville ; Palais de Justice ; Aca
demyof Painting ; and the picturesque
architecture of many of the old
houses.
53
Time by railway, from Bruges to

Ghent, 1 h. 25 m.
Ghent. Inns : Hotel Royal ;
Post; both on the Kauter, or Place
d'Armes. 2nd class, Hotel de Flandres, clean and quiet ; Paradis ; Lion
d'Or ; Hfitel des Pays Bas ; Marche
aux Grains, very comfortable, but
small. This is another picturesque
old town. Population about 104,000.
One of the largest manufacturing
places in Belgium. The chief objects
of interest here to the passing travel
ler are the fantastic architecture of
many of the old houses ; the Beffroi
(Belfry Tower), which should be as
cended for the views from it ; the
Cathedral of St. Bavon ; the Church
of St. Michael ; the University ;
H&tel de Ville ; the Museum ; private
collections of pictures ; Marche au
Vendredi ; and the Citadel, &c.
Time, by trains, from Ghent to
Mechlin, 1 h. 15 m. From Ghent
direct lines of railway lead to Ant
werp on the N. E. and Lille on the
S. W. , where the line to Paris is joined.
Malines (Mechlin).Here the car
riages are sometimes changed, and
there is always so much confusion
that passengers must have their wits
about them, and be careful that they
do not mistake the train they in
tend to go by. From hence a line to
the N. leads to Antwerp, and to the
S.W. to Brussels and Paris. Inns:
H6tel St. Jaques ; La Grue, in the
Grande Place. Population, 29, 660 ;
and one of the most picturesque of all
the old Flemish cities. The Cathedral
contains the celebrated Crucifixion by
Vandyck, which is justly esteemed as
his finest work. The churches of St.
John and N6tre Dame are near the
railway station. Time from Malines
to Louvain about \ an hour.
Louvain, close to the station.
Inns: H6tel de Suede, Place de
Peuple, near the station ; good and
moderate charges. The same applies
to the Sauvage, where there is a
table d'hote. Cour de Mons.
54
ROUTE 2.LONDON" TO COPENHAGEN.
The H&tel de Ville is considered

one of the most beautiful Gothic
buildings in the world. The Cathedral
also is of great interest.
Time, from Louvain to Liege, about
2 hours.
Liege. The town is some little
distance from the station. Inns :
Hfltel de SuSde, very good ; Hotel
d'Angleterre. Hotel de Bellevue,
table d'h6te at 1 o'clock, 2 f. 50 c.
H6tel de 1'Europe, very good and
clean. Le Sauvage, opposite the
Cathedral. H6tel de France. This
is the Birmingham of Belgium. Po
pulation, 75,000. The railway works
here are interesting. Also the Court
of the Palais de Justice, the churches
of St. Jacques, St. Bartholomew, the
Cathedral, and the University. Time
by railway, from Liege to Aix la Chapelle, 2 hours.
Verniers. Carriages are changed
here prior to entering the Prussian
territory. All baggage must be given
up to the guards, and is searched at
Cologne. Passports are subsequently
collected by the guards, but not re
turned by them. They should be in
quired for and obtained at the Passport
Office in Aix la Chapelle, immediately
on arriving there. The office is under
the same roof with the Station.
Prussian Money. Accounts are
kept in dollars and silver groschen.
1 silver groschen (s. gr.) is about
Hd. Eng.
30 s. gr. (or 24 good groschen) make
1 dollar (thaler), which is 3s. Eng.
There is paper money of 1, 5, and
50 dollar notes and upwards, all on
different-coloured paper. It is the
best to take, and passes current in
Hanover. The best silver pieces to
obtain are those of 10, 5, and 2 }2
s. gr., being respectively the 3rd,
6th, and 12th of a dollar.
Aix la Chapelle. Inns: Grand
Monarque, first rate, table d'hote at 4.
Nuellen's H&tel, capital, and well
Bituated. Hotel d'Empereur. Grand
Hotel, good and moderate, close to
Denmark.
the baths. Bellevue, well situated.

Couronne Imperiale, good and quiet.
H6tel des Quatre Saisons, good.
Dragon d'Or, good. H&tel de la Rose
(or Aigle Noir), good. This fine city
is of high antiquity, it was known to
the Romans, and subsequently became
the favourite residence of the Emperor
Charlemagne, who was born, died, and
buried here. The present population
is upwards of 52,000. Apart from
numerous and handsome buildings re
cently erected here, the leading ob
jects of interest arethe Hotel de
Ville ; the Cathedral, where Charle
magne was entombed, a.d. 814 ; the
pump-room. Time from Aix la
Chapelle, by railway, to Cologne, 1J
hour.
Cologne (German, Koln). The
search of baggage here is very slight
if proper facilities be afforded the
officers. No fees are expected by, or
should be given to them. But the
porters in attendance expect some
trifling gratuity. Omnibuses and
droskis are in waiting. The fares for
the latter are hung up inside. The
station is outside the fortifications,
and some distance from the best part
of the town.
Those who do not desire to stop in
Cologne can go to one of the inns in
Deutz, on the opposite side of the
Rhine, and which are near the railway
station. See Deutz below.
/nns : Cour Imperiale (Kaiserlicher
Hof), one of the best, but dear, and
a long way from the Rhine. Rheinischer Hof, not cheap, but very good,
clean, and well conducted. H&tel de
Cologne, very good, reasonable, and
quiet. Hollandischer Hof. Grand
H&tel Royal. Rheinberg. These 4
are upon the Rhine Quay, close to the
steamers, and, from the back, com
mand lovely views over the river.
Mainzer Hof, near the Diligence
Office. All the best houses have good
tables d'h&te, and waiters who speak
English.
This most interesting town is also
Denmark,
koute 2.by ostenD, COLOGNE, HANOVER, ETC.
of very high antiquity. It is the

largest and richest city upon the
Rhine, a free port, strongly fortified,
and has upwards of 100,000 inhabit
ants (10,000 Protestants) ; but this in
cludes its suburb, Deutz, on the oppo
site side of the river. The great
objects of attraction here are the
Cathedral, one of the finest and
purest specimens of Gothic which
exists; the churches of St. Peter
(where there is Rubens' famous pic
ture of the martyrdom of that saint),
St. Ursula, the Jesuit (Maria Himmelfahrt), Santa Maria in Capitato,
the Apostles, and St. Pantaleon ; the
house, No. 10, Sternen Grasse, where
Maria de Medicis died and Rubens
was born ; the Museum ; the Rathhaus (town-hall) ; the Kaufhaus ; and
the House of the Templars, Rheingasse, No. 8 ; likewise the fortificacations, which are of great extent
and strength. The chief manufacture
here is Eau de Cologne, and nowhere
is it more requisite, particularly in
some of the narrow streets. L. Kohnen, bookseller, Unter Seidmacher,
keeps English newspapers ; and
Baedeker, Hochstrasse, 134 A, has a
good store of guide-books, &c. There
are some pleasant walks along the
bank of the river, and across the
floating bridge upon it, to
Deutz. Inns: H&tel de Bellevue,
comfortable, well conducted, airy,
and quiet ; it commands from its
front windows a fine view of Cologne ;
is close to the railway ; carriages to
and fro gratis. Prinz Carl.
RAILWAY, DEUTZ TO HANOVEB,
Known as the Cologne and Hanover
Line. An early morning train, about
6.30, runs the whole distance,
starting from Deutz on the arrival
of the train from Ostend. Night
trains also run from Hanover to
Berlin, and Hanover to Hamburg.
Time tables will be found in the
hotels at Cologne and Deutz. Time,
from Deutz to Hanover, 8 hours.
55
Fare, by 2nd class (which is equal to

the 1st in England or Belgium), about
6 dol., or 18. Weight of luggage
allowed free, 50 lbs.
The principal towns upon this line
are
Dusseldorf. Time, from Deutz,
1 hour. Inns: Breidenbacher Hof,
good, but far from the Rhine. An
omnibus is in attendance upon the
steamers and trains. Drei Reichskronen (3 Imperial Crowns), rery
comfortable. Prinz von Preussen,
close to the railway. Hotel de deux
Fonts, or Zweibriiker Hof. Dombart's
Hotel ; and Coiner Hof. Dusseldorf
has about 43,000 inhabitants. It is
now chiefly remarkable for the modern
school of painting founded here by
Cornelius in 1828. The studios of
the artists may be seen". The HofKirche contains several specimens
of the present Dusseldorf school.
Steamers from Diisseldorf run both
up and down the Rhine several times
during the day. Time, by trains
from Dusseldorf to Minden, about 6
hours.
Minden. Inns : Eisenkahngasthaus ; Stadt London. This strong Prus
sian fortress contains a fine Cathedral;
and there is a good private collection
of pictures in the town, Herr Kruger's. N. of the town is the field of
the Battle of Minden, 1759.
Time, by trains from Minden to
Hanover, 1\ hour.
Hanoverian Money is the same
as Prussian (for an account of which
see this Route prior to Aix la Chapelle), except that accounts are kept
in good groschen, 24 to the dollar,
instead of silver groschen of 30 to the
dollar.
Hanoyek.Inns: British Hotel,
good, much civility, and fair charges.
H6tel Royal near the Station, Romiseher Kaiser, Hotel de Hanovre, City
of Hamburg. The Station is some
distance from the best inns, but omni
buses are in attendance upon the
trains. This small Capital has about
56 KOUTE 3.
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN, BY ANTWERP. Denmark.
40,000 inhabitants. A great stride

lias been made in the improvements
in and about the town since the acces
sion of the late king.
The chief objects of attraction here
arethe Palace ; the Royal Stables ;
the Theatre ; Schlosskirche ; Royal
Library ; Waterloo Monument ; Leib
nitz' House and Monument ; and
many of the old houses are highly
picturesque.
Railways from hence to Bremen on
the N., to Brunswick, Magdeburg, and
Berlin on the E. , and
THE LINE FROM HANOVER TO HARBURG,
Opposite Hamburg, on the left bank
of the Elbe. There are several trains
during the day, the last leaving on the
arrival of the train from Cologne.
Time from Hanover to Harburg, 5
hours ; and fare, 2nd class, about 3
dollars, 9s.
Harburg.Here there is a steam
ferry to convey passengers down the
Elbe to
Hamburg, where droskis are wait
ing at the landing-place. Their fares
are regulated by tariff.
For Inns, &c, see Route 1 (which
is joined here) ; and also for informa
tion as to the rest of the journey by
Kiel to Copenhagen.
but a short distance from the best

Inns: Hotel du Grand Laboreur,
Place de Meir, an old-established and
comfortable house. Hotel St. Antoine, Hotel du Pare, both in the
Place Yerte, near the Cathedral, well
managed and much recommended.
Tables d'hote at 2 and 4J ; good and
respectably attended. Hotel des
Etrangers, on the Quai, Hotel d'Angleterre, Hotel des Pays Bas.
N.B.The Hand-book for Nor
thern Germany fully details all
particulars of the various objects
in this most interesting town, and
they will therefore be only most
briefly alluded to here.
The town is very strongly fortified,
and contains about 90,000 inhabit
ants. The citadel in 1832-33 with
stood a siege during nearly two months
of a French army of 55, 000 men. The
Cathedral is famous for its exquisite
proportions and architectural orna
ments, as well as for the pictures it
contains by Rubens. St. Jacques also
contains pictures by Rubens ; St. Paul,
St. Andrew, the Augustins, and St.
Anthony of Padua are likewise inter
esting churches. The Museum is rich
in pictures by Rubens, Vandyck, and
other Flemish artists. The Docks,
Hotel de Yille, Bourse, Rubens' House,
and various old houses of most pic
turesque architecture, also deserve
ROUTE 3.
notice. At Bailey's Indian Warehouse
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY RAILWAY the famous Antwerp black silks may
FROM ANTWERP TO COLOGNE, HANO be purchased.
English Service here twice every
VER, HAMBURG, AND KIEL.
Sunday in a church in the Rue des
Steamers from London to Antwerp Tanneurs.
every Sunday and Thursday morning ;
Steamers in summer daily, in 10 or
and from Antwerp to London every 12 hours to Rotterdam, about 80 E.
Sunday and Wednesday morning. m. And to London every Sunday
Two English and one Belgian vessel. and Wednesday morning.
Distance about 210 m. Fares, Chief
Railroads. Direct to Ostend in 34
Cabin, 11. 7s.; Fore Cabin, 11. Ave hours ; and by
rage passage,
to 24 and
hours,
of
THE LINE TO COLOGNE.
which
are in the20Thames
6 in7the
Scheldt. From Antwerp to London The morning train, which runs the
the passage is usually shorter.
whole distance, leaves about 8. Time
Antwerp.The landing-place is tables may be seen in all the hotels.
Denmark, eoute 4.London to Copenhagen, by kotterdaji. 57

The current coin is of gold, silver,
and copper. Of silver there is a great
variety. The best money to take is
silver, of 3, 1, and J guilder pieces.
The captains of the steamers will
generally give change for -sovereigns,
which, at par, are worth 12 guilders.
And there are money-chaigers close
to the best hotels, where Prussian
money may be also had, as to which
see Route 2 prior to Aix la Chapelle.
Rotterdam. The vessel runs close
alongside the Quay, near the Custom
House. Search there quite nominal.
Inns : Hotel des Pays Bas, the best ;
beds, 1 guilder to 1 gu. 10 stivers :
breakfast or tea, 14 st. ; table d'h6te,
1 gu. 10 st. ; dinner in private, 24
gu. New Bath Hotel, very good,
Hotel de 1' Europe. These 3 are on
the Quay, close to the steamers.
Scheppershuis, Spaanische Kade,
EOUTE 4.
Zwynshoofd, in the great market, and
St. Lucas. English spoken at all the
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY ROTTERDAM best houses.
UP THE RHINE TO DUISBURG NEAR
N.B.TheHand-bookforNorthern
DUSSELDORF, OR BY ROTTERDAM,
Germany gives full particulars as
UTRECHT, ANDOBERHAUSEN: THENCE
to all the towns, &c, upon this
BY RAILWAY TO HANOVER, HAMBURG,
route, and therefore they will be
AND KIEL, OR . BY AMSTERDAM,
mentioned here as briefly as pos
UTRECHT, ETC., OR BY STEAMER
sible.
FROM AMSTERDAM DIRECT TO COPEN
Rotterdam is 24 m. from the sea,
HAGEN.
has a large colonial and other shipping
and is the second city of Hol
Steamers 3 times a week in summer. trade,
land ; population, 78,000. Many
The General Steam Navigation Com portions
the town are very pic
pany's vessels run from Blackwall turesque. of Chief
the Statue
every Tuesday, Thursday, and Satur of Erasmus, Greatobjects,
Church of St. Law
day ; and boats return from Eotterdam rence, the Dock Yard.
on same days. Fare, Chief Cabin,
Steamers daily up the Rhine to
11. 10s. ; Fore Cabin, 1/. The Diisseldorf.
best Rhine boats
"Batavier" goes every Sunday, and are those of The
New Diisseldorf
returns from Rotterdam every Tues Company. To the
Antawrp in 10 hours.
day. Fare, 21. Average passage, 24 To London every
Wednes
to 30 hours, about 9 of which are in day, and Saturday.Tuesday,
To Hull once a
the Thames and the Maas.
week.
Dutch Money. Accounts are kept
Travellers have the choice of two
modes
of conveyance from hence to
in guilders (or florins) and cents.
Hanover by the steamer up the Rhine
5 cents make 1 stiver, Id. Eng.
20 stivers (or 100 cents) 1 guilder, to Diisseldorf, and there joining the
Cologne and Hanover line ; and the
or Dutch florin, 1. &d. Eng.
There is no smaller paper money. more rapid one by
Distance, Antwerp to Cologne, about
180 Eng. in. Time, 7 hours. Fare,
1st class, 23 francs ; 40 lbs. luggage
allowed, and beyond that must be
paid for. No baggage whatever per
mitted to remain in the same carriage
with passengers after passing the
Prussian frontier. All should there
fore be properly directed and delivered
up on Btarting from Antwerp. Be
careful to obtain and keep the corre
sponding number to that fixed on the
baggage.
Time, from Antwerp to Malines, 40
minutes.
Malines (Mechlin). Here Eoute 2
is joined. As there is always much
confusion, and carriages are often
changed, great care should be taken
not to get into a wrong train.
58
houte i.London to AMSTERDAM.
RAILWAY, ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT,

ARNnEIM, EMMERICH, AND OBER
HAUSEN JUNCTION,
Where the Cologne and Hanover line
is joined. There are several trains
during the day. Time from Rotter
dam to Utrecht, 1 h. 30 m., where
the Amsterdam railway joins the line ;
to Arnheim, 2 h. 45 m. ; to Emme
rich, 5 h. ; to Oberhausen Junction,
7 h. Time tables will be found in
all the hotels. Fares from Rotterdam
to Oberhausen, first class, about 10
gu., or 17s.
Utrecht. 33 m. from Rotterdam.
Inns : Hotel des Pays Bas, excellent,
one of the best in Holland. 'T Kasteel
van Autwerpen, on the Oude Gracht,
good. Bellevue, a diligence house.
This very ancient town has about
50,000 inhabitants. Chief objects :
The Stadhuis ; the Cathedral (ascend
the tower) ; University ; Mint ; walks
round the town.
Arnheim. 68m. Inns: The Sun,
near the Station ; Zwynshoofd (Boar's
Head) ; Goude Arend (Golden Eagle),
near the railway and the steamer ;
New Belvedere Hotel ; Cour de Hollande ; Hotel des Pays Bas. There
is little to see in Arnheim itself, but
the environs and neighbourhood are
pretty. Population about 17,000.
Emmerich.87 m. from Rotter
dam. Inn: Hdtel des Pays Bas,
best. About 5000 inhabitants. This
is the first Prussian town. Luggage
is examined, and passports vis6 by
the police, which causes a delay of
about an hour.
Oberhausen. 125 m. from Rot
terdam. Here Route 2 is joined on
the Cologne and Hanover line. The
town is a short distance from the
main line; a branch line connects
them. From Oberhausen travellers
can proceed by rail to all parts of
Germany.
LONDON TO AMSTERDAM.
By steamer direct, from off the
Tower every Sunday ; or by steamer
Denmark.
to Rotterdam, from thence by rail to

Amsterdam, 50 m., in 2 h. 40 m.
Fare, first class, 4 gu. 20 c, through
the Hague, Leyden, and Haarlem.
The Hague. Inns: Hotel Belle
vue, good ; bed, 1 fl. 20 c. ; doublebedded room, 2 fl. ; dinner, 2 fl. ;
table d'hote at 4. Oude Doelen, very
comfortable. Nieuwe Doelen, Marechal Turenne, Keizerhof, Twee Steden,
Heerenlogement. Population, 64,000.
The Picture Gallery, containing a num
ber of the best specimens of the Dutch
school, is the great attraction ; the
Royal Cabinet of Curiosities ; the
Palace, with its splendid pictures and
drawings ; the Royal Library ; Col
lection of Gems and Medals, and
several private collections of pictures.
Leyden.Inn: Goude Zon. Popu
lation, 37,500. The chief objects of
interest are the University ; Museum
of Natural History ; Egyptian Mu
seum ; the picturesque Old Town
Hall ; Dr. Siebold's Japanese Collec
tion ; and the Botanical Garden.
Haarlem. Inns: Goude Leeuw,
Zyl Straat, good ; landlady speaks
English, and most attentive to the
comfort of her guests ; Widow de
Boer's, Houtpoort near the Wood.
Haarlem is celebrated as the birth
place of some of the finest Dutch
painters, Nicholas Berghem, Jacob
Ruysdael, Philip Wouvermans, and
Wynants. The present lion of the
town is the famous Organ, in the
Great Church of St. Bavon. There
is a picturesque old gateway, through
which the Amsterdam road passes.
Population, 24,000.
Amsterdam.The terminus is some
distance from the best part of the
town, but omnibuses are in attend
ance. Inns: H6tel des Pays Bas,
Doelen straat, very good and com
fortable. Table d'hote at 4 daily.
Oude Doelen, in the Doelen straat.
Nieuwe Doelen, in the Gainalen
Market, also good. Wapen van
Amsterdam. This is the largest
town in Holland, and has 212,000
Denmark, koute 5. hambukg TO KIEL, BY PLON AND PREETZ. 59

inhabitants. Its structure, and
numerous canals and bridges, render
it quite unique and, in some of the
oldest parts, picturesque.
The
places to be visited are the Palace ;
the Stadhuis ; New Exchange ; Oude
Kirk ; Nieuwe Kirk ; the Museum
and Picture Gallery, containing a large
collection, and comprising some capital
pictures of the best Dutch masters ;
also 200 portfolios of Engravings and
Etchings ; the various charitable in
stitutions ; and several excellent pri
vate collections of pictures. Steamers
run, from April to November, to
Hamburg every 5 days, commencing
on the 5th of each month. Passengers
must go on board the night before.
Fares, Chief Cabin, 18 gu. (11. 10s.)
Steamers also to Stettin, calling at
Copenhagen every tenth- day. Fare to
Stettin, 40 gu. (31. 3s., about). The
Amsterdam and St. Petersburg boat
also calls at Copenhagen, leaving Am
sterdam on the 1st and 15th of every
month. The Amsterdam and Stock
holm steamer also calls at Copen
hagen.
Proceeding by rail from Amsterdam
the early part of this route is joined
at Utrecht, a distance of 22 miles, in
about 1 hour. Fare, first class, 1
gu. 70 c. See Utrecht in the pre
ceding page.
ROUTE 5.
HAMBURG TO KIEL, BT PLON AND
PKEETZ.
15J Dan. m. = 72 Eng. m. To
lovers of the picturesque this more
circuitous route may be recommended,
notwithstanding the indifferent state
of the roads in Holstein, as affording
an opportunity of viewing many of
the natural beauties of the Duchy.
4 Dan. m.* Wandsbek, a Danish
town ; this is the limit of the Ham* In these Routes in Denmark the dis
tances will all be given in Danish miles,
unless the contrary be stated.
burg territory. In the town is a

tower built as an observatory for
Tycho Brahe, the celebrated astrono
mer, who, during his wanderings,
found for some time an asylum here
with Count Rantzau. A bust of him
is placed in one of the rooms in the
tower. Wandsbek, which is very
prettily situated, is also a favourite
place of resort of the Hamburgers,
and was for many years the residence
of the well-known German writer
Claudius.
24 Heidkrug.
4 Segeberg, (Inns: Stadt Kopenhagen; Stadt Hamburg,) a pretty little
town with 1750 inhabitants, is
situated between the river Trave
and a small lake. The most in
teresting object in the vicinity is the
imposing limestone rock, of large di
mensions, which rises suddenly, in
the midst of a level country, to a
height of 200 feet, and consists of
one solid mass, the lower parts of
which extend to a depth of more than
400 feet. Seen from the quarries
which have been opened at its foot,
the rock is particularly imposing ;
the view from the summit over the
flat but fertile country, diversified
by woods, lakes, and villages, and
bounded on the W. and E. by the
towers and spires of Hamburg and
Lubeck, is exceedingly beautiful.
Travellers who wish to ascend the
rock are, according to a regulation
posted at its foot, to be accompanied
by a police-servant.
4 Plan. (Inns : Stadt Hamburg ;
Stadt Altona; Im Prinzen.) The
situation of this town on a small strip
of land, dividing the wood-encircled
lake of Plbn, and in the midst of one
of the most fertile valleys of Holstein,
is very romantic. It was, until 1761,
the capital of an independent princi
pality, but now belongs to the crown
of Denmark. The castle, the former
residence of the dukes of HolsteinPlon, rises majestically on the brow
of a steep hill overlooking the lake.
CO
route 6.Hamburg to lubeck.
In the environs, where hill and valley,

verdant meadows and waving corn
fields, large tracts of woodland and
sunny lakes, succeed each other in
rich variety, no spot possesses more
attractions than the estate of Ascheberg, which lias for centuries belonged
to the family of Rantzau, celebrated
in Danish history. In the beautiful
pleasure grounds which border the
lake are the four tallest fir trees in
Holstein, they being more than 100
feet high. The splendid avenue of
lime trees, which leads up to the
house, will strike all who behold it
with admiration.
2 Preetz, (Inn: Stadt Hamburg,)
a town with upwards of 4000 in
habitants, and also very prettily
situated, owes its origin to a convent
founded on the spot in 1216, and
which is now converted into one of
those foundations for unmarried
ladies of noble birth, so common in
Germany. The convent, which is
inhabited by 39 Chanoinesses, besides
the prioress, is connected with the
town by a shady walk. The church
and cloisters are interesting. From
Preetz the road runs through the fine
and extensive forest of Vogelsang, to
2} Kiel. (See Route 1.)
ROUTE 6.
HAMBURG 10 LUBECK.
About 56 Eng. m. Trains in 2\
hours by the Berlin railway as far as
Buchen, where a branch turns off to
Lubeck.
Bergedorf. The line runs through
a flat sandy country, covered with
boulders of slate and granite.
Buchen.In Holstein. A branch
line runs S. from here to the Elbe,
at Lauenburg.
Inns : Rathskeller : Schwan. A
town of 3400 inhab. on the Elbe,
where the king of Denmark levies
tolls on all vessels passing.
Ratzcburg. The town (not seen
Denmark.
from the station) on an island in a

lake. It was once a bishop's see.
The territory belonging to Lubeck
begins about 6 m. from its walls : it
is bounded by Holstein, Lauenburg,
and Mecklenburg.
Lubeck. Inns: Stadt Hamburg;
very good ; bed, 1 mark 8 schillings ;
breakfast, 12 sch. ; dinner, with a
bottle of wine and coffee, 2 marks 12
sch. ; Hotel du Nord also very good.
Table d'hAte at 3 o'clock, 1 mark 8
sch. ; . Fiinf Thiirme (Five Towers) ;
and Stadt London.
Lubeck Money.Accounts are kept
in marks courant and schillings as at
Hamburg, except banking accounts,
which are in marks banco.
16 schillings make one mark. The
current coins are also the same as
those in use at Hamburg, and the
smaller ones equally worn and almost
valueless out of Lubeck ; therefore
care should be taken to get rid of
them before leaving the city.
A respectable money-changer lives
a few doors on the left of the H6tel
du Nord. Swedish and Danish
paper and other money may be
purchased or sold there. About 22
schillings make 1 rix dollar banco,
Swedish.
Lubeck was built by the Emperor
Conrad III. a.d. 1066. It was re
peatedly destroyed by the Danes.
In the commencement of the 13th
century, it was declared a free im
perial city by the Emperor Frede
rick II. At a later period it entered
into and subsequently became the
most considerable of the towns
forming the Ilanseatic League, as
such deserving the name of the
Carthage of the North. For upwards
of 4 centuries, from 1260 to 1669,
she maintained that prominent posi
tion, the seat of the government of
the Confederation, the repository of
its archives, and the station of its
fleet, to the command of which she
was entitled to appoint one of her
own citizens. From the dissolution
Denmark,
route 6.lubeck.the cathedral.
of the League, however, her im

portance diminished, and her com
merce decayed, until she dwindled
into the existing state of insignifi
cance, from which she is not likely
soon to emerge, and which is at once
made evident to the stranger by the
grass-grown streets, and the numerous
empty houses.
After the fatal defeat of Jena
(1806), Bliicher, retreating with the
wreck of the Prussian army, and
r hotly pursued by 3 French generals,
Bernadotte, Soult, and Murat, threw
himself into this unfortunate town,
in spite of the remonstrances of its
senate and citizens, and thereby in
volved it in his own ruin. A bloody
engagement commenced outside the
walls, but continued through the
streets, and ended in the expulsion
of the Prussians, and in the sacking
and pillage of Lubeck, for 3 days.
The French army of 75, 000 men was
long quartered upon the town, to
complete its ruin and misery.
The Executive Government is vested
in 4 Burgomasters, elected for life, 3
Syndics, and 16 Counsellors.
The Population of the city is up
wards of 26,000 ; including its sur
rounding territory, 54,166.
The town is built on a low ridge
between the rivers Trave and Wakenitz. The fortifications were formerly
of great strength, but have been
partially destroyed, and the enormous
mounds of earth which formed the
ramparts have been planted and laid
out as walks and drives. Lubeck is
one of the most picturesque old towns
remaining in Germany, and is de
serving of much greater attention
than is generally bestowed upon it by
passing travellers. In its grotesque
architecture little change has been
made since the 15th century. Here
may yet be seen the feudal gates of
the town, its venerable Kath-haus
Gothic Chamber, and picturesque
gable-ended houses, many of them
richly decorated, and all bespeaking
61
the splendour which prevailed here

when Lubeck, like .Venice, was in
the days of her pride.
Churches. The Bom or Cathedral
at the S. end of the town is a very
antique structure of red brick, and
has two spires. It was begun 1170,
and finished, after interruptions,
1341, contains in its side chapels the
monuments of many of the patrician
families of Lubeck, and the tombs of
numerous bishops and canons in the
choir.
The screen of the choir is perhaps
one of the finest specimens which
exists of wood carving of the early
German school, about the period of
Lucas Cranach. The figures are the
size of life, full of expression, and
admirably executed. But the glory
of this cathedral as a work of art is
an altar-piece, which is in one of the
side chapels on the left. The two
outer shutters represent the An
nunciation, and are painted only in
gray. These fold back and display
the figures of St. John the Baptist,
St. Jerome, St. Blaize, and St.
Philip, all painted in the most
finished manner, and of the richest
colours. These shutters also fall
back and disclose the central picture,
which represents the leading events
of "the passion of our Saviour,"
from the Agony in the Garden to the
Resurrection. They are depicted in
23 distinct compartments, in one of
which the city of Jerusalem appears
in the distance. Considering the
period at which it was painted
(1471), this picture is a marvel of
art. It is alike wonderful for its
composition, the force and expression
of the heads, brilliancy of colour, and
finish. It is in the finest state, and
(after the " Seven Joys of Mary" in
the gallery at Munich) is the most
precious example which now exists of
the master. The picture is only
dated and not signed ; but there can
be no doubt of its leing, as it is
stated, one of the finest works of
62
route 6.lubeck.the marien kieche. Denmark.
Hans Memmling (erroneously called

Hemmling, or Hemmelinck), painted
a few years before his celebrated
altar-piece for the hospital of St.
John at Bruges. Happily this most
interesting picture at Lubeck escaped
a journey to Paris at the French in
vasion. The old sacristan relates
with great glee that "it never had
the pleasure of making the acquain
tance of the French," from whom it
was concealed in the roof of the
cathedral.
The stone pulpit (1568) and brass
font (1455) are both of excellent
workmanship. According to a tradi
tion, this church was built by Henry
the Lion, on the spot where Charle
magne, while engaged in the chase,
fell in with a stag having a cross
growing between its horns and a
collar of jewels around its neck, with
the produce of which the first church
here was built. A rude fresco on the
S. side of the nave commemorates
this legend. Among other curiosities
is the bronze effigy of Bishop Bockholt in a reclining position, which
adorns his monument, and a richlyengraved brass, of two bishops, who
died in 1317 and 1330. Observe
likewise here the circular vaulting in
the nave and cross, under-pinned by
pointed ; the fine sedilia with canopy ;
pews, cloister, and hall, the N. porch,
and the roodloft.
The Marien Kirche is in the ele
gant pointed Gothic style ; of red
brick, and built in 1300. The archi
tecture and ornaments of the interior
are even more interesting than at the
cathedral. The principal objects here
are the chapel at the E. end, resem
bling Becket's crown at Canterbury.
Another chapel on the S. side. The
painted glass of the windows, by an
Italian artist, Fr. Livi, who after
wards (1436) furnished those for the
Duomo, in Florence.
The handsome brass screen all
round the choir. The beautiful and
highly antique brass font, and sacra-
ment-haus. The altar at the W. end.

The organ ; and carved woodwork of
the Burgomasters' seats. A painting
of the Dance of Death, dated 1463,
and curious for the costumes of the
period which are represented in it, as
well as for its being painted 35 years
before the time of Holbein. There
are likewise several other interest
ing specimens of the early German
school, one of them attributed to A.
Durer.
Overbech, the celebrated German
artist, is a native of this town, and
two of his most esteemed pictures are
to be seen in this church : Christ's
entry into Jerusalem, painted in
1824, and an Entombment, executed
in 1845.
The lion of the valets de place is
an astronomical clock (behind the
high altar) constructed in 1405,
which sends forth at noon figures of
the 7 Electors, who march in review
before the statue of the Emperor ;
each as it passes makes a reverential
obeisance, and then disappears.
The Heiligegeist Spital has a singu
lar but pretty W. front, and vorhalle
or ante-chapel.
The Katharinen Kirche, though
now a gallery, retains many altars
and ornaments untouched, a good
rood, and old paintings. The Crypt,
unusually lofty and above ground, is
laid open. The architect should visit
the Jacobs and Egidi Kirchen (with
the ruined Kloster).
The Gothic Raathaus close to the
Marien Kirche, was built between
1442 and 1517, but has suffered much
from recent repairs. It presents its
finest front to the market-place. The
street entrance is by a vestibule of
very neat and elegant design. The
bronze figures on the door are very
curious; upstairs is a gallery with good
elliptic vaulting. Within its walls in
ancient times, the deputies from 85
cities of Germany, who composed the
Ifanseatic League, held their delibera
tions. Here were concerted those
Denmark.
koute 6.lubeok.schnell-post.
wise measures? which raised the Con

federation from humble beginnings to
a height of power and wealth which
not only enabled it to establish facto
ries in all the great cities of Europe,
including Bergen, Novgorod, Bruges,
and London, but obtained for it the
supremacy of the ocean, enabling it
to wage successful war against neigh
bouring States, with an army of its
own, 50,000 strong, to depose power
ful monarchs, and form treaties of
alliance with great kingdoms. The
beautiful Hall of the Hansa, in
which this council met, is divided
into small rooms, and the Rathskeller,
dating from 1443, is modernised by
the Restaurateur who occupies it.
The senate of the town now assemble
in the lower story. The presiding
Burgomaster rejoices in the title of
"your Magnificence," the learned
Senators are addressed, "high wise,"
and the merchant Senators "well
wise Sirs."
In the Marvel-place is a stone,
upon which Mark Meyer, an admiral
of Lubeck, was beheaded for running
away from the Danish fleet.
The stranger should not omit to
obtain a sight of the curious and wellexecuted carvings in wood, by an un
known artist, which ornament one of
the rooms in the house, No. 194, in
the Schiissel-buden Strasse.
The Holsleiner Thor (Holstein
Gate) is a singular and interesting
specimen of ancient feudal fortifica
tion, in an unaltered condition.
The Bury Thor is a very curious and
at the same time ornamental build
ing.
The brothers Adrian and Isaac Van
Ostade, and Sir Godfrey Kneller, were
born here ; their houses are still
pointed out, as well as that in which
Count Straensee lived, near the
cathedral.
Until the French gained possession
of Lubeck, no Jews were tolerated
within the town ; they were banished
to the neighbouring village, Moisling,
03
which they still occupy almost exclu

sively.
The Trade of the town, which is
still considerable, chiefly consists in
the export of grain produced in the
neighbouring districts, and in imports
of wine, colonial produce, and manu
factures for its own consumption and
that of the surrounding countries.
Goose quills, for pens, also form a
large branch of the trade here.
There is a splendid avenue of lime
trees from the town for some distance
on the Travemiinde road.
Railroad*. Hamburg and Lubeck
are at length connected by railway.
The Danish Government, through
whose territory the line must neces
sarily run, long refused their consent
to the project, on the ground that
the interests of Kiel would suffer.
A branch of 29 miles from Buchen
on the Hamburg and Berlin line is
now carried to Lubeck. Fares from
Hamburg, 1st class, about 5 marks.
Schnell-Post daily to Hamburg
in about 6 hours, at 11 p.m. A
book is kept at the Hotel du Nord,
in which travellers desiring to pro
ceed to Hamburg may enter their
names, and on payment of the fare,
7 marcs, to the landlord, he will se
cure places. Those going to Berlin
need not pass through Hamburg, but
can take the railway the whole way,
joining the Hamburg and Berlin line
at Buchen.
Persons going by steam to St.
Petersburg must have their pass
ports vise by the Russian Consul be
fore they can secure a berth.
As the depth of the Trave at Lu
beck is not sufficient for vessels of
draught, the large steamers to St.
Petersburg, Copenhagen, and Stock
holm, start from Travemiinde, about
10 English m. off, at the mouth of
the Trave. Two small steamers con
vey passengers up and down the river,
the distance by water being 18 miles,
on account of the windings, and the
fare 2^ marcs = 3s. id. There is
01
route 7.lubeck to copeshagen.
nothing to be seen on the river, and

the passage takes about 2 hours.
The steamers, in summer, are some
times prevented running for want of
sufficient depth of water. The gene
ral opinion is, that the waters of the
Baltic are slowly, but steadily re
ceding, and that Lubeck was, at no
very distant period, if not actually a
seaport, at all events very much
nearer the Baltic than at present.
Whatever the truth of the case may
be, nothing betokens any violent
change having taken place; the
banks of the river, with the ex
ception of one slight ridge of hills
near its mouth, are as flat and level
as those of a Dutch canal, and the
direction of the stream is scarcely
perceptible.
The road is now excellent, and by
far preferable, as it is only a journey
of 14 hour, and a seat in a carriage
costs no more than a place by the
steamer. There is a ferry, but so
well contrived that it occasions very
little delay, the horses not being taken
out of the carriage, which will hold
6 persons, and usually costs about 5
marcs. This is exclusive of the tolls
and driver, for which 2 more are
amply sufficient.
The road passes through some beau
tiful woods and a highly-cultivated
country.
Travem&nde (i.e. the mouth of the
Trave), the port of Lubeck, is a
pretty small bathing-place, much re
sorted to in summer by Germans of
the upper classes. The Inm are good,
and very reasonable ; Stadt Lubeck,
a bath-house, provided with readingroom and library ; and Stadt Ham
burg ; both having restaurants at
tached. There are bathing-machines
on the shore in the English fashion
(called English bath-coaches), and
warm sea-water baths, which cost 24
schillings.
Steamers from Travemunde. Berths
may be secured at the offices in Lu
beck. To Copenhagen twice a week,
Denmark.
on Thursdays and Saturdays : passage

1 6 to 20 hours. To Stockholm every
Thursday, in 60 hours. To St. Peters
burg once a week, in 75 to 80 hours,
during the Baltic season. To Riga
twice a month.
Porters are in attendance upon the
steamers, whose charges are regulated
by tariff. Carriages also await the
arrival of the steamers.
ROUTE 7.
LUBECK TO COPENHAGEN'.
A steamer leaves Lubeck, every
Thursday and Saturday at 11 a.m.
Passage 16 to 20 hours. Berths
may be secured at the offices in
Lubeck.
On board these packets, it fre
quently occurs that the upper berths
are intended to carry doublea fact
which it is highly desirable for all
travellers to bear in mind, as, from
their more airy situation, as well as
more ample dimensions, they are al
most sure to be preferred.
Travemunde is about 10 Eng. m.
distant from Lubeck. For particulars
as to conveyances there by land or
water, see end of Route 6.
The entrance to the harbour of Travemiinde is narrow, and somewhat
dangerous. There is a lighthouse
built quite close to the water.
Copenhagen.For particulars as to
the approach to this city, landing
there, and inns, &c, see Route 1.
ROUTE 8.
HAMBURG TO COPENHAGEN, CROSSING
THE GREAT AND LITTLE BELTS.
65 Danish m., about 292 English,
by the direct road, through Aarfisund,
which is taken by the diligence. By
way of Christiansfeldt and Kolding it
is 50 Eng. m. more. Those who desire
to take the latter route should only
secure their places by the diligence as
far as Haderslev (or Hadersleben),
where the roads separate.
Denmark,
koute 8.Hamburg to Copenhagen.
Route 9, from Nyeborg, upon this

route through several of the islands',
to Copenhagen, forms a most delight
ful addition to this tour.
Flensborg on this route may now be
reached within 5 hours from Altona,
by a branch of the Altona and Kiel
Railway. Trains same as those to
Kiel ; see Route 1.
A diligence (Persons-post) leaves
Flensborg every night at
for
Korsor, in Zealand, the terminus of
the Copenhagen Railway. Time, from
Flensborg to Korsor, including the
water passages over the Little Belt
and the Great Belt, 18 to 20 hours.
The following stations are those on
the old posting road, but travellers
are recommended by all means to
take the railway as far as Flensborg ;
the roads through Holstein and Sleswig being in many parts very sandy,
and the country not diversified enough
to make amends for the slowness and
fatigue of a long land journey, but
those travellers who will diverge from
the post route will find some interest
ing spot?.
24 Pinneberc. Inns : The PostOfiice (Post-haus), Der Schwarze
Adler. The town is small and insig
nificant, with 1000 inhabitants. The
castle, which was razed in 1720, had
been the residence of the Counts of
Schaumburg, and was much distin
guished in the Thirty Years' War by
its brave defence against Tilly, who
was severely wounded under its walls.
24 ELMsnoRN.Inns: Stadt Co
penhagen, Stadt Hamburg. Elmshorn is a flourishing town, with 5200
inhabitants and considerable manu
factures and commerce. It is par
ticularly noted for its shoes, which
are met with in abundance at all the
fairs throughout the Duchies, there
being no less than 200 masters and
400 journeymen shoemakers in this
small place.
Elmshorn is one of the few towns
in the Duchies where Jews are allowed
to settle without previous especial
65
permission, and there is consequently

a great number here.
3^ Itzehok.Inn : Stadt Ham
burg. This town, situated on the
river StSr, in a valley bordered on
the N. by wood-clad hills, has 5500
inhabitants, and is the place of assem
bly of the provincial States of Hol
stein.
There is indisputable historical evi
dence of the town having been built
by Charlemagne, in 809, as a place of
refuge for the newly-converted Chris tians of North Albingia. In 1644,
during the Thirty Years' War, Itzehoe
was twice taken by Tilly and retaken
by the Danes, and its important mili
tary position again subjected it to the
attacks of the Swedes in 1657, when
the town was bombarded and partly
reduced to ashes.
The Church of St. Lawrence is in
teresting, and is connected with the
Convent (a foundation for noble ladies)
by a subterraneous passage. In the
immediate environs are several very
fine country seats, among which is the
Castle of Breitenburg, on the banks of
the Stor.
3^ Remmels.
3 Rendsbobo, (Inns : Stadt Copen
hagen, Stadt Hamburg and Lubeck,)
a border fortress between Holstein
and Sleswig, is built on both sides of
the Eider, and is one of the strongest
military positions in Denmark. The
town has 10,000 inhabitants, and is
favourably situated for commerce, this
being the point at which the junction
of the Sleswig Holstein Canal with
the Eider is effected.
Until 1581 Rendstorg was alter
nately in possession of the Holsteiners
and the Danes, since that period the
fortress has always belonged to the
Danish crown. The Marien Kirche
is large and richly ornamented. The
A Itar-piece, of 1640, is curious.
Soon after quitting Rendsborg, the
road crosses the New Canal (see Kiel).
3f Sleswig, (Inns: Elders', near
the Castle; Stadt Copenhagen, near
CO
route 8.Hamburg to copeshagen.
the Posthouse ;) the capital of the

Duchy of this name, is situated on the
Slie, or Sleswig Fjord, an arm of the
Baltic, which stretches upwards of 5
Danish miles into the interior, and is
in some places so narrow as to bear
the appearance of a very moderate
river. The mouth of the Slie is a
famous place for herring fishing.
Sleswig has 11,000 inhabitants,
and is one of the most ancient cities in
Denmark. Here is said to have been
erected the first Christian church in
the kingdom. The Cathedral, built
in 1260, is a fine Gothic pile ; the
altar-piece is the work of a Danish
artist of the 16th century, and is a
beautiful specimen of wood carving.
Many of the monuments in the church
are very fine, particularly one in white
marble, the work of the Italian Capxara, and erected over the grave of
King Frederick I. of Denmark, who
died in Sleswig in 1533. Over the
second altar is a painting by I.
Owens. The church of St. Michael
is said to have been originally a
heathen temple. In an old castle,
the remains of which are situated in
the Altstadt, King Niels was mur
dered, 1134, by the members of St.
Knud's guild, to avenge the death of
Knud Lavard, the popular Duke of
Sleswig, who had been treacherously
murdered by Niels' son Magnus.
In the Sleswig Fjord, between the
Altstadt and Haddeby, is a little island
on which large quantities of sea-fowl
are yearly killed. On another island
in the fjord, on the opposite side of
the town, lies the Castle of Gottorf,
the residence of the Stadtholder (go
vernor) of Sleswig and Holstein. In
the town is a celebrated institution
for the insane.
A little to the S. of the town are
remains of the famous wall Dannevirke, erected under the pagan kings
of Denmark to protect the Duchy,
bearing then exclusively the name of
Southern Jutland, on the only side
from which it was then accessible.
Denmark.
This border-wall was first erected in

the 9th century, and was, according
to the accounts given of it in Olof
Tryggveson's Saga, built of wood,
stone, and earth. In 937 the wall
was rebuilt and greatly strengthened
by Queen Thyra, the wife of Gorm
the Old, and whom the fpeople, in
their gratitude for this patriotic act,
surnamed Danabod (Pride of the
Danes). At this period the wall ex
tended two Danish miles across the
country, from the arm of the Slie,
called Selker Noer, to the little river
Treene, near Hollingsted. At regular
intervals along its. whole length rose
strong castles, and along the inner side
ran a ditch 10 feet deep and 10 feet
wide. The late king of Denmark
(Christian VIII.) issued strict orders
for the preservation of these interest
ing remnants of antiquity.
A few miles N. of Sleswig is the
village of Idstedt, where, on the 25th
of July, 1851, the decisive battle was
fought between the Danes and the
Germanizing Holsteiners. About
30,000 men were engaged on each
side. The Holsteiners, under Gene
ral Willisen, were strongly posted be
hind the Langso Lake, from Wedelspang to Idstedt village, in their
centre. The left wing was behind
the Arnholtz Lake : bogs and the
feeders of the Treene protected their
flanks. The only mode of crossing
this line of water was by a strip of
land between Langso and Idstedt
lakes, about 300 yards wide. The
Danes, under General Krogh, attacked
the Holstein centre, crossed the nar
row strip of land, and took the bat
teries' commanding it at the point of
the bayonet. At the same time a
corps, which had been previously de
tached from the right wing of the
Danish army, appeared advancing on
the road from Solbro to Sleswig in the
rear of the Holsteiners. A panic en
sued, and the Holsteiners fled in the
greatest confusion. This was vir
tually the end of the war. About
Denmark.
rocte 8.flensborg, middelfart.
4000 men was the estimated loss on

each side.
i\ Flensborg, (Inns : Posthaus,
Kayser's Hof the best, Stadt Ham
burg, Stadt Copenhagen,) situated on
the Flensborg Fjord, is still one of
the most flourishing commercial towns
of Denmark, though its commerce,
which had reached its greatest height
during the American war, has consi
derably declined since the last war
with England and the cession of
Norway, the two most melancholy
events in the history of Denmark's
decline.
From Flensborg, a diligence starts
every night at 11 for Korsor in Zea
land : crossing the Great and Little
Belts. Time about 18 hours. Flens
borg is also connected by railway with
Tonning at the mouth of the Eyder.
From Tonning to London there is a
steamer three times a month. See
Route 13.
i\ Apenrade, or Aabenraa, on the
fiord of the same name, is beauti
fully situated in a deep valley sur
rounded by wooded hills. Inn : Hartmeyer's Posthaus.
34 Haderslev (or Hadersleben), a
very old town, where Count Christian
of Oldenburg was, in 1448, elected
king of Denmark, the first of the now
reigning dynasty, which has ever
since been in uninterrupted possession
of the Danish throne, though the
crown continued elective down to
1660. The Marien Kirche is a large
and handsome building, in which is a
monument erected in honour of
Luther in 1817.
A diligence from Flensborg runs
through Apenrade, Haderslev, Christiansfeldt, Kolding, Horsens, Scanderborg to Aarhuus, leaving Flens
borg about 2 p. m. , Haderslev 9 p. m.
daily, and arriving at Aarhuus in 18
or 20 hours. See Route 11.
Excursion from Haderslev through
Christiansfeldt and Kolding, joining
this Route again at Odense.
2 Christiansfeldt, (Inn : Asmus-
07
sens,) a small but flourishing manu

facturing place, built in 1773 by the
Moravian brethren, and almost exclu
sively populated by them. The town,
situated in the midst of a hilly and
wooded country, has that appearance
of neatness and sobriety which is the
characteristic of the followers of the
peculiar religious tenets of its inha
bitants. The meeting-houses and
schools are worth inspecting.
2 Kolmno, (Inn: Madsen's,) in
the province of Northern Jutland.
The fine old castle, built in 1248, was
consumed by fire in 1808, in conse
quence of the imprudence of the Spa
nish troops quartered there. The
ruins are very fine and highly inte
resting.
24 Snogiioi. From hence there is
a ferry across the Little Belt, of about
I m. Eng., to the island of Funen at
Middelfart (Inn: Hvalsoe's). $ m.
from Middelfart, beautifully situated
upon a small and thickly-wooded pro
montory, is the manor of Hindsgavl,
one of the finest seats in Denmark.
On the old castle hill are the ruins of
the royal castle of Hegnsesgavl, so
celebrated in Danish history, and
which was destroyed by the Swedes
in 1659.
Two miles from Middelfart the road,
passing near the little village of Vissenberg, situated on an eminence,
commands a fine and extensive view
of the fertile and highly-cultivated
country, which bears some resem
blance to parts of England, this being
the only province of Denmark Proper
where the fields are inclosed by living
hedges.
6 Odense.
Direct Route from Haderslev con
tinued. The road leading to Aarosund runs along the southern shore of
the Haderslev Fjord, through a smil
ing country, richly studded with
pretty villages and farmsteads.
2 Aarosund, ferry across the Little
Belt, to
The Island ofFunen (Danish Fyen).
68
boute 8.Hamburg to Copenhagen.
2 Assens. Inn: at the Post-house.

5\ Odense, (Inn: Porthouse, Fuglebergs, ) capital of the province of
Funen, and the most ancient and
considerable of the provincial towns
of Denmark. By popular tradition
it derives its name from Odin, the
chief of the Asas, who is said to have
founded the town, and whose sepul
chral tumulus is shown near the little
lake of the Ncesbyhoved, \ m. K. of
Odense, where are also the remains
of the very ancient Castle of Nasbyhoved.
The Cathedral of Odense, one of
the finest in Denmark, was founded
by Canute, or Knud IV., in 1080, in
honour of the English Saint, Alban,
who was a great favourite with the
king. After Knud was murdered,
and the Danish clergy, anxious to
have a national saint, had prevailed
upon the Pope to canonize him, his
remains were deposited in the church
of St. Alban, which thenceforward
has borne the ' name of St. Knud.
Annexed to the church was formerly
an abbey, founded by Erik, Knud's
brother and successor, for 12 English
monks, whom he brought over from
Evesham. The church was consumed
by fire in 1247, and was restored in
1300 by Bishop Gisico. Several of
the monuments in the interior of the
church are very interesting. In the
town-hall, (Raadhuset,) an ancient
building, were sometime held the diets
of the nobles, which superseded the
national assemblies of Denmark. It
was at one of these diets, in 1527,
under Frederick I., that the reformed
party in Denmark gained its first vic
tory over the Roman Catholics.
Odense Castle, built by Frederick
IV., is the seat of the governor of the
province of Fyen ; this appointment
being generally held by the Prince
Royal, who holds his court at
Odense.
Hans Christian Andersen, the cele
brated author, andJerichau, the sculp
tor, are both natives of Odense.
Denmark.
4 Nyeeorg, (Inn : Schalburg's,

very good,) was in the 13th and 14th
centuries one of the most important
towus in the kingdom. It was forti
fied by Christian IV. and Frederick
III. In 1569, the Danes here won a
decisive victory over the Swedes, who
occupied the fortress, which for ever
liberated Denmark from the yoke to
which the ambition of the Swedish
monarch had tried to subject her. In
1808 Nyeborg was again for a fewdays
in the hands of a foreign power : the
Spanish General Romano, who was
then quartered in Funen, having
thrown off his allegiance to the
French, took possession of the fortress
and of all the batteries on the fjord,
and held them until, aided by the
English, he was able to return to his
own country. On this occasion a
most extraordinary scene took place
on the beach, outside the fort. When
embarking on board the English fleet,
Romano's troops, consisting mostly of
cavalry, were obliged to leave their
horses behind them, and these ani
mals, abandoned to themselves, soon
engaged in a most sanguinary combat,
which lasted untjl almost all were
killed. The few that survived were
captured by the Danish peasants, and
the mixture of Andalusian blood is
still visible in the breed of horses in
this neighbourhood. On an eminence
is erected a telegraph, by means of
which travellers can order lodgings in
advance at Korsor. From Nyeborg
there is a ferry across the Great Belt,
to Korsor.
The Steamer from Christiania to
Kiel now calls at Korsor instead of
Nyeborg on its passage both ways.
See Route 9, for tour from Nyeborg
through Langeland, &c, to Copen
hagen.
The winter of 1657-58 was so se
vere, that Charles X. of Sweden
crossed both the Little and Great Belts
upon the ice, with his whole army,
infantry, cavalry, and artillery, on
his way to Copenhagen. Charles
Denmark.
route 8. korsSr, slagelse.
made this most hazardous expedition

in opposition to the advice of his
ablest generals, but he accomplished
it in safety, and forced the Danes
into the peace of Roeskilde, in order
to save their capital. Charles crossed
the Great Belt over the islands of
Langeland, Laland, and Falster, to
Zealand.
4 Korsor, in Zealand. Inn : Jacobsen's. The entrance to the harbour is
protected by a small fort. Between
Nyeborg and Korsor, in the middle
of the Belt, is the little island of
Sprogiie, on which is a telegraph for
the transmission of news when during
the winter the ice compels the mail to
stop here, and an inn for the accom
modation of travellers who may be
in the same position. The island is
considered so unenviable a place of
residence, that it has become pro
verbial in Denmark, when a person
is annoyed by any one, to say, ' 1 1 wish
he were at Sprogbe."
The Zealand railway can be taken
from here to Copenhagen, passing
through Slagelse, Ringsted, Roeskilde,
and other stations. A morning train
leaves Korsor at 7 h. 15 m. ; and an
evening train at 7 h. 15 m., perform
ing the distance in 3J hours. A goods
train also runs in the middle of the
day. Fare, first class, 4 rix. doll. 24
sk., about 9s. 6d. Eng. The dis
tances given are those of the post
road. The railway stations are Korsor,
Slagelse, Soroe, Ringsted, Borup,
Roeskilde, Hedehusene, Taastrup, '
Glostrupj Balby, Copenhagen. From
Korsor to
Slagelse, 2|, a lively little town
with 3200 inhabitants, has a fine
church of the 11th century. (Inn:
Postgaarden, Thomsen's. ) In the
forest of Antvorskov, immediately
beyond the town, was formerly situ
ated the abbey of Antvorskov, found
ed by Valdemar I., in 1177. Of
one of the monks of this monastery,
Holy Anders, the patron saint of
Slagelse, the most marvellous tradi
C9
tions are still extant. To him, it is

said, the town was indebted for the
extensive lands annexed to it, for
Valdemar having promised the town
as much land as Holy Anders could
ride round on a new-born foal, the
pious monk is said to have made such
speed, notwithstanding his strange
courser, that the courtiers kept run
ning to the king, who was in his bath,
to implore him to stop the progress of
the holy man, or he would soon ride
round the whole island.
Holy Anders further enjoyed the
privilege of hanging his hat and his
gloves on the sunbeams, while per
forming his devotions in the open
air, a circumstance which brought
him into great repute. An eminence
in the neighbourhood of Slagelse,
where* Anders is said once to have
fallen asleep and to have had a vision,
is still denominated the resting-place
(Hvilehoien).
2 Miles from Slagelse the road
passes the lovely lake of Sorb, on the
borders of which rises, in noble and
elegant simplicity, the academy of
Sorb. Seven hundred years ago,
when the town of Sorb was but a
little hamlet, Asser Ryg, the father of
Denmark's greatest statesman, Bishop
Absalon, erected on this spot a Bernardine convent, which, by the muni
ficence of Absalon, and of his brother
Esbern Snare, soon become one of the
richest and most distinguished abbeys
in Denmark. Here it was that Saxo
Grammaticus wrote his Danish
Chronicles. After the introduction of
the reformed religion, Frederick II.
(1586) transformed the abbey into a
foundation school, and in 1623,
Christian IV. , anxious to prevent the
Danish nobles from leaving their own
country to prosecute their studies at
foreign universities, as was then very
much the fashion, founded, richly
endowed, and connected with this
school an academy for youngnoblemen,
and appointed many foreign professors
to instruct them in different sciences
70
eoute 8. Hamburg to Copenhagen.
and languages. The school founded

by Frederick II. being not exclusively
designed for noblemen's children, it
was considered necessary to lay down
as a rule that ' ' the children of nobles,
who may frequent the school, shall
hereafter, for several reasons, at
meals, in the hours of instruction and
of recreation, as well as in their bed
rooms, be separated from the other
children who are not noble." This is
one of the many instances of the
profound contempt in which the no
bles held the other classes, and the
utter unconcern with which they gave
utterance to their feelings, circum
stances which in less than half a cen
tury afterwards led to the complete
overthrow of their power, and to the
establishment of the absolute power
of the monarchs. In 1754 Sorb'
Academy was further endowed by
Baron Ludvig Holberg, the Danish
historian and dramatic writer, who
at his death bequeathed to it the
whole of his property. The spirit of
the academy has of course, in later
times, undergone a change, and the
nobles have here, as elsewhere, lost
their exclusive rights. Among the
present professors are Ingermann and
Estrup, whose names rank among the
first in Danish literature. A lovely
little cottage on the banks of the lake,
and immediately adjoining the aca
demy, is allotted to each of the pro
fessors, and the whole character of
the place is perfectly suited to the
calm pursuits of science. The old
academy was burnt down in 1813,
and was replaced by the present
building, but the church of the Bernardines, a very fine Gothic building,
is still extant, and contains within its
walls the ashes of Absalon, of Hol
berg, and of King Yaldemar IV.
A church, called Petersborg church,
situated on an eminence \ m. N. of
the town of Sorb, and on an arm of
the lake, forms a striking feature in
the landscape.
(rt.) About J m. from Sorb is the
Denmark.
village church of Fienneslov, a spot

famous in Danish tradition and in
Danish song. Sir Asser Ryg, says
the former, about to depart on a war
like expedition, repaired to Fienneslov
church, to offer up a prayer for
success. Painfully struck by the
dilapidated state of the church, he laid
an injunction on his wife, Dame Inge,
to build a new one during his absence ;
and as she was expecting to be a
mother, he added that in case she bore
him a boy she was to build a tower
on the church ; but in case the child
proved a girl, a spire only was to be
erected. Nine months elapsed, and
Sir Asser Ryg, returning victorious,
beheld two towers rearing their proud
heads above the new-built church.
The twin brothers then born were
Absalom and Esbern Snare (the
quick). The Krebshuus, an inn close
to the town, is celebrated for the
beauty of its situation as well as for
the excellence of its accommodations.
4 Ringsted.-Inn : Postgaarden.
The old church in this town, which
was built in the 11th century for
the Benedictine monks in Ringsted
Abbey, contains the remains of 7
Danish kings, including those of
Valdemar I., and several monu
ments. One is said to be that of
Canute the Great.
4 Roeskilde, (Inn: Prindsen,) on
the fjord of the same name, which is
an arm of the Issefjord, was from the
10th until the 15th century the re
sidence of the Danish kings, the see
of one of the first bishops in the
land, and the capital as well as the
most important town in the country.
It is said to have been founded by
King Roe, who chose the spot on
account of the fresh-water springs,
that abound in the neighbourhood,
and thence the name Roeskilde
(Roe's well). There were formerly
30 churches and 30 convents here.
Roeskilde is celebrated as being the
place where the peace of February
7, 1658, was concluded between
Denmark.
BOUTE 8.
Sweden and Denmark, after Charles

X. had crossed the Great and Little
Belts upon the ice, with his whole
army ; a peace as glorious to the
Swedes as it was ruinous to the
Danes.
Of all the past glory of the city its
cathedral alone remains. This is a
brick building in the plain Gothic
style that prevails, with few varia
tions, throughout all the ancient
edifices in Denmark, and its lofty
towers are seen to greater advantage
from its being built on a slight eleva
tion in the midst of the extensive
plain of Zealand. The architecture
of the interior is extremely plain, but
in some of -the side chapels, which
are of more modern date than the
church itself, there are some at
tempts at ornament. The original
church was completed in the year
1076, under Svend Estridsen, whose
predecessor, Canute the Great, had
richly endowed it, to atone for the
murder of his brother-in-law, Ulf
Jarl, who had taken sanctuary there,
and was slain in the choir in 1027.
"It was apparently circular and of
the same dimensions with the east
end of the present edifice. This
latter was commenced after the
middle of the 12th century, and
probably not completed as we now
see it, till towards the end of the
13th. The east end is probably one
half of the old round church rebuilt,
the required enlargement of space
having been obtained by a consider
able extension of width towards
the west. "Ferguson's Illustrated
Handbook of Architecture, p. 930.
The carving of the altar-piece, re
presenting the birth and the passion
of our Saviour, is well executed.
Behind the altar is a monument over
the grave of Queen Margaret, who
effected the union between the three
crowns of Denmark, Sweden, and
Norway. This monument, on which
is extended a full-length figure of the
queen in white marble, was erected
EOESKILDE.
7!
in 1423, by her grandson, Eric of

Pomerania, in whose name she had
governed the three realms.
In the vaults beneath repose the
long line of Danish monarchs, and
some few of the great men whose
names survive in the north. On the
coffin of Christian IV. lies his sword,
" That sword," says a Danish
writer, "with which he so valiantly
secured the peace of Denmark ; a far
more honourable ornament to the
hero's grave than the costly mausoleum
of many an unworthy prince, where
the sculptor has placed the genius of
his country weeping, not for hia
death, but for the misfortunes which
his folly or vices brought upon his
native land." However, Denmark
has thought its well-beloved king
worthy of a more pompous monu
ment ; and shortly before his death,
Thorwaldsen completed a fine statue
of this monarch, which, cast in
bronze, is now placed in one of the
chapels of the cathedral, bearing the
name of Christian IV. , and in which
are at present deposited the remains
of Christian VII. and of Frederick
VI., the two last deceased kings of
Denmark, and of several other
members of the royal family. The
simple, velvet-covered coffins in this
chapel form a striking contrast to
the costly marble mausoleums and
sarcophagi in Christian I. and Fre
derick V. 's chapels, and tell a tale of
the declining finances of the country.
In the nave of the church, a long and
narrow stone marks the resting-place
of Saxo Grammaticus, the humble
monk of Soro, to whose labours in
the 12th century so many of the
proud monarchs of Denmark owe the
immortality of their names : see page
69.
The views from the tower of the
cathedral are very lovely and exten
sive, particularly on the W.
In 1070 a scene occurred in this
cathedral, strongly resembling that
which took place at Milan in the 4th
route 9.nyebohg to copenhagex.

century, between St. Ambrose and
the Emperor Theodosius. King
Sweyn II. (son of Ulf Jarl, who
was murdered in the choir), upon
some remarks being reported to him
which had been made upon his con
duct the night before by some of his
guests when heated with wine, in
the irritation of the moment ordered
them to be slain, though they were
then at mass in the cathedral. An
Anglo-Saxon named William, and
who had been secretary to Canute
the Great, was then bishop of
Roeskilde. On the day following
this dreadful tragedy, the king pro
ceeded to the cathedral. He was
met by the bishop, who, elevating his
crozier, commanded him to retire,
and not to pollute with his presence
the house of Godthat house which
he had desecrated with blood. The
king's attendants drew their swords,
but he forbade them to exercise any
violence towards a man who in the
discharge of his duty defied even
kings. Retiring mournfully to his
palace, he assumed the garb of
penance, wept, and prayed, and
lamented his crime during three
days. He then presented himself
in the same mean apparel before the
gates of the cathedral. The bishop
was in the midst of the service ; the
Kyrie Ekison had been chaunted,
and the Gloria about to commence,
-when he was informed that the royal
penitent was outside the gates.
Leaving the altar he repaired to the
spot, raised the suppliant monarch,
and greeted him with the kiss of
peace. Then bringing him into the
church, he heard his confession,
removed the excommunication, and
allowed him to join in the service.
Soon afterwards in this cathedral the
king made a public confession of his
crime, asked pardon alike of God
and man, was allowed to resume his
royal apparel, and solemnly absolved.
(Dunham's History of Denmark,
&c, v. ii. p. 180.)
Denmark.
Adjoining the cathedral, and com

municating with it by a covered
corridor, is a royal palace, erected
1733, which at present serves as the
place of assembly for the provincial
States of the Danish islands.
In 1856, the Railway was opened
from Copenhagen to Korsiir. Groups
of peasant women in their pic
turesque costume may generally be
seen about the Station.
i Copenhagen (see Route 1).
ROUTE 9.
FROM NYEBORG IN THE ISLAND OF
FUNEN (SEE ROUTE 8) TO COPEN
HAGEN, THROUGH THE ISLANDS OF
THOUSENG, LANGELAND, LOLLAND,
FALSTER, AND MOEN.
The Island of Funen, or Fyen.
Inns and Conveyances.Through
out this route the ferry-houses as
well as the towns are extra-post
stations, and therefore no difficulties
will arise in obtaining horses and
carriages of some kind. Guides can
be had on application to the inn
keepers, at the ferry-houses, and in
the towns, but generally in the guise
of a Danish peasant, who understands
no other language than his own.
The population of this island is
upwards of 170,000.
Those who desire to become ac
quainted with some of the most beau
tiful scenery in Denmark, should
take this route. From Nyeborg (see
Route 8) a road runs S. for about 25
Eng. m. to the coast at
Svendborg.Inn : Lacoppidan's
will furnish excellent head-quarters.
A few days should be devoted to
exploring the lovely environs of this
picturesquely-situated little town ;
the narrow winding streets of which,
lying upon the sides of the hills that
surround the bay, command extensive
views of the innumerable islands
within it.
The two churches here, Nicolai,
Denmark.
route 9.island ok thorseng, etc.
and Klosterlcirke (Convent church),

being both of very ancient date, are
not without interest. The chief at
tractions are, however, the beautiful
environs, where hill and valley, wood
and water, combine to form a suc
cession of the most pleasing land
scapes.
From Sveudborg a ferry of \ an
Eng. m. across the narrow strait here
leads to
The Island of Tliorseng,
which, though small, is the most
highly-cultivated spot in Denmark.
It belongs to the family Juul, the de
scendants of the celebrated admiral
of that name. A ' pleasant walk
through verdant beech woods, leads
from the village and ferry of Vindeby
to the residence of the lords of the
isle, Walclemar's Castle, an imposing
building, situated in the centre of
their little realm, and surrounded by
extensive pleasure grounds. At
Vemmentes, there is a ferry of about
3 Eng. m. across to
The Island of langeland,
the population of which is above
20,000. Passengers land at the only
town in the island,
Rudkiobino, which offers no objects
of interest ; but the beauties of na
ture here again make amends for the
absence of art. 1J mile north of the
townis the village of Tranekiosr,v/hh a
very good Inn, and in the immediate
vicinity the castle of Tranekioer,
situated on a rising ground command
ing a fine view of the beautiful land
scape that surrounds it. Half a mile
north of Tranekioer the village of
Egelykke occupies a romantic situation
on the sea-shore within view of the
wood -clad coasts of Funen. Still
further north is the Frankeklint, a
cliff overlooking the whole island, the
greater part of which is the property
of the Counts of Ahlefeldt Lauervig.
From Spodsbierg, on the eastern
side of Langeland, there is a ferry to
73
Tlie Island of Lolland, or Laland,

about 10 Eng. m. distant, at the fish
ing village of
Taabs. A little N. of Taars is the
manor of Frcderiksdal, which was
formerly a noted place of resort for
pirates. It is also remarkable as being
the spot where Charles X. of Sweden
landed his troops in 1658, when he
stole a march upon the Danes, across
the ice, as stated in Route 8.. The
population of this island of Lolland
is above 60,000.
If Dan. m. from Taars, on the S.E.,
is
Nakskov, (Inn : Horsens',) the
largest town in Lolland, with 2300
inhabitants. The Church is a large
and fine building, the tower of which,
100 feet high, commands an extensive
view over this most fertile, but very
flat island. A \ of a mile from the
town is the manor of Jucllinge, ori
ginally a convent, and which still
bears traces of the purpose for which
it was formerly used. The chapel
attached to the building is very
pretty.
3f Marieboe.Inn: Knudsen's.
This little town, which is prettily
situated on a strip of land separating
two lakes, nearly in the centre of the
island, owes its origin to an abbey
founded here in the 15th century.
The abbey church is still extant, and
serves as parish church. In a plain
immediately beyond the town is the
Cathedral, in which repose the ashes
of Eleanore Christine Ulfeldt, the
ill-fated daughter of Christian IV.
A grove beyond the town, called
Bang's Garden, affords a lovely view
across the lake to the manors of Sbholt
and Engestofle, whose grounds and
gardens border the southern shores
of the lake. On the N. is Knulhenborg, the property of the Counts
Knuth, and about which the beech
woods are veiy extensive and beau
tiful.
Farther E. , situated on a small bay
B
71
route 9. nyeboro to corENHAOEN.
which separatesthe barony of Lolland

from that of Guldborgland, is the very
small town of
1 Saxkiopino. A pleasant walk
through beautiful beech -woods, imme
diately beyond the town, leads to the
castle of Hardenberg, the seat of the
Counts of that name, and one of the
finest properties in Denmark. The
castle, restored not many years back,
has maintained its Gothic character.
The walk from Saxkioping to Ourebygaard also presents many beauties, and
the place itself is worth a visit. From
Saxkioping, a road leads to
3 Sundbye, on the E. coast of Lol
land. From hence the very narrow
strait of Guldborg is crossed by a
ferry to
The Island of Falster.
Ntekiopisq. Inn : Knudsen's.
This pretty little town is pleasantly
situated.
The altar-piece in the Church is
worth notice. The small island called
Hasselben. in the Guldborg straits,
about 3 Eng. m. S. of Nyekioping, is
inhabited by the descendants of Dutch
colonists, who settled there in order
to provide the town with vegetables
at a time when the Dutch were better
acquainted with the mode of culti
vating them than the Danes were.
Their descendants continue in the
vocation and picturesque costume of
their forefathers.
Mood to Moen. Those who desire
to visit the island of Miien, on their
way to that of Zealand, must take the
cross road from Nyekioping to Gronsund, in Falster, 3 Dan. m., and
thence cross the ferry to Gronsund in
Moen.
Direct route continued.From Nye
kioping the chaussee runs northwards
to
2| Gaabekse. The ferry-house
and Inn here is beautifully situated.
A steamer to Copenhagen 3 days a
week. From hence the passage across
the water to
Denmark
The Island of Zealand, or Sjeland,

is about 6 Eng. m., and one of the
loveliest in Denmark ; the richlywooded shores of Zealand extending
E. and W., and the little town of
Wordingborg, with its picturesque
ruins, weleoming the stranger from
afar. The population of Zealand,
exclusive of Copenhagen, is upwards
of 121,000.
Wordinobors. Inn : R. Madsen's, but very indifferent. The port
of Wordingborg, in ancient times one
of the finest in the island, is now
so filled with sand as not to admit
ships drawing more than 7 feet of
water. The town, like most of the
towns of Denmark, owes its chief in
terest to the historic remembrances
connected with it ; for though now an
insignificant place with no more than
1500 inhabitants, it was during the
reign of the Valdemars a place of
much importance, and celebrated for
the number of naval expeditions
which left its port, as also for its
castle, built in 1166 by Valdemar I.
to protect the town from the frequent
inroads of the Vendes, and considered
the strongestfortress in the country. It
was built on a circular plan, and sur
rounded by a wall strengthened by five
towers. One of these only, the socalled Oaasetaarn (Goose tower), 80
feet high, is still extant, and forms
the most prominent feature amongst
the ruins. From the battlements of
this tower, which was in its time
used for the custody of prisoners of
war, the eye commands an extensive
view of the beautiful country around,
and of the sea, thickly studded with
islands, among which are Moen, Lol
land, and Falster.
Steamers run hence to Copenhagen
on Sundays at 8 h. 30 m. A. M. ; Tues
days, 9 h. 30 m. a.m. ; Fridays, 10 h.
30 m. A. M. ; and Saturdays at noon.
Excursion from Wordingborg,
through the island of Moen, and re
turning here. It is a lovely voyage
Denmark,
ROTJTE 9.
ISLAND OF M3EN.
of about 12 English miles down the

strait to
The Island of Moen,
which is called the Switzerland of
Denmark. Land at the little Inn and
ferry-house of
Gronsund, in Moen.
The population of this island of
Moen is upwards of 12,000.
At Gronsund, about 4 a mile from
the ferry-house, the cliffs, Prmstebierget (the Parson's mountain) and
Lbgbierget, rise to the height of 200
feet above the level of the sea, and
afford very fine views over the whole
island ; but the highest and most pic
turesque cliffs are on the opposite,
the eastern side of the island. To
reach these the traveller should pro
ceed to Steege. The road thither
passes Marienborg, a gentleman's
seat with fine gardens and pleasure
grounds. A little to the W. , between
Marienborg and Steege, in Frendrup
Wood, is an ancient tumulus which
tradition asserts to be the restingplace of the giant Gron and his wife
Phane.
Steege, (Inn: Tidemann's,) the
chief town in the island, situated on
a narrow promontory between the
ocean and a deep bay called the Nore,
has a cheerful appearance, but offers
no objects of sufficient interest to de
tain for one moment the stranger
from visiting the lovely scenery that
surrounds it. From . south to north
along the east coast stretches a ridge
of picturesque chalk hills, breaking
into a thousand grotesque forms,
sometimes crowned with verdant
woods, sometimes stretching their
naked summits high up in the air,
intersected by ravines and narrow
valleys, and diversified by little cas
cades and streamlets that gush down
the cliffs in all directions. The road
from Steege to the cliffs leads first
through a well-cultivated but flat and
open country to the village of Kieldby,
4 a mile. In the village church are
75
two objects of interest to the antiqua

rian, the one the altar-piece, which '
dates from the middle ages, and the
other a grave-atone placed over a
member of the family Moltke, of the
middle of the 14th century, and one
of the oldest that exists in Denmark,
bearing date and inscription. A little
further on is the village of Borre, and
the ruins of an old castle destroyed in
1510. Beyond Borre the cliffs begin
gradually to rise, and the footpath,
after descending some length through
lovely woods, suddenly emerges on an
open platform on one of the highest
points of the cliff, called Dronningestolen (the Queen's chair), 398 feet
above the level of the sea, which rolls
its foaming billows at its foot. The
descent from this point into the pic
turesque Maglenand's valley, is par
ticularly interesting. The other re
markable points in this range of
miniature mountains, whose beauties
rival those of grander dimensions, are
Sommerspiret, 325 feet above the
level of the sea ; Taleren, an isolated
mass containing the finest chalk ;
Graaryg, &c, &c. The highest points
are the Aborre Bierg, \ of a mile
east of the manor of Klintholm, 460
feet high, and the Kongsbierg, be
tween Bussinger and Mandemark, 436
feet.
At Liselund, an estate which in
cludes the northernmost cliffs, art has
been brought in farther to embellish
nature, and though the cliffs are here
neither so high nor so bold as those
more to the south, they offer more
variety. The farmer at Liselund
keeps an Inn for the accommodation
of travellers.
At Koster, upon the Ulf Sund, and
S. of Steege, the Steamers running
between Copenhagen and Wordingborg call four days a week : for days
see under Wordingborg above. The
voyage to the former takes 6 hours.
From Koster there is a ferry of about
1 Eng. m. to
Kallehave, in Zealand, from
e 2
70
route 9. nyeboeg to copexhagen.
whence ft road leads through a beau

tifully-wooded district back to
24 WORDINGBORO.
Direct Route to Copenhagen con
tinued.(rt.) 2 miles from Wordingborg the road passes the Manor of
Beldringe.
(rt.) and 4 m. further on, that of
Nyso, a fine modern building, situated
near the small town of Priesto, on the
banks of the lovely Prcesto Fjord, an
arm of the Baltic, which is here al
most completely land-locked, and
assumes the character of a lake.
Nyso belongs to the Baron Stamse.
Here Thorwaldsen passed great por
tion of the last G years of his life.
The Studio, built for him by the
Baroness, and his little suite of rooms,
are carefully preserved exactly as
he last occupied them. The family
kindly allow them to be seen.
(1.) 34 m. from Wordingborg is
Sparreshoim, a large manorial edifice,
erected in 1609 on the site of and
from the remains of the ancient castle
of Paderborn, of which mention is
made in history, as being, during the
14th centnry, on account of its favour
able position on one of the highest
points in the island, and from the
lawless character of its possessors,
one of the most formidable among the
numerous castles which at that time
covered the country ; and within the
strong walls of which the inhabitants
set at defiance every attempt of the
lawful authorities to punish the out
rages committed by them on the sur
rounding population.
Sparresholm is beautifully situated
in the midst of a wooded country
studded with innumerable small lakes,
which reflect in their glassy waters the
bright verdure of the beeches that en
circle their banks.
(1.) The eminence covered with
wood, \ mile from Sparresholm, is
Overdrevitbakken, the highest point in
Zealand ; it rises 390 feet above the
level of the sea. The whole of this
part of the country is diversified by
Denmark.
wood, and intersected by little rivulets

flowing in all directions.
3J Ronnede.
(rt.) \ m. from Kbnnede, Jomfruen3
Egede, a country seat, the property of
Count Moltke.
(1. ) A little further on rises from
amidst the surrounding woods the
stately A hbey of Gitselfeldt, built in
the middle of the 16th century by the
celebrated Danish statesman Peter
Oxe, on an eminence situated between
two small lakes. In the year 1700,
the Qisselfeldt estate was sold to Ge
neral Christian Gyldenlove, Count of
Samsii, son of Christian V., King of
Denmark, and Mrs. Sophia Moth, the
daughter of his physician, who was by
the king's favour nominated Countess
of Samso. Gyldenlove, who died very
early, by his will erected the manor
and lands of Gisselfeldt into a " Con
vent for noble maidens," (which in
Protestant Denmark means nothing
more than a foundation to bestow an
nuities upon the unmarried daughters
of noble families,) establishing as a
rule that the eldest male of his family
shall always hold the situation of di
rector, and the eldest unmarried
daughter that of abbess of the con
vent.
(1.) Brcgenlred, the noble family
seat of the Moltkes. The surrounding
park is noted for the taste with which
art has there been made to embellish
nature, and the flower-gardens and
hothouses are considered the finest in
Denmark. The place is said to have
belonged in the 14th century to the
famous Count Gerhard of Holstein;
the present building is, however,
little more than a century old.
3i Kioge, (Inn : Karl Hansen's,
bad, ) situated on the bay of Kioge,
an arm of the Baltic, where in 1677
the celebrated Danish Admiral Niels
Juel gained a most decisive victory
over the Swedes. The town, which
was during the 17th century a flourish
ing sea-port, has now no shipping, and
the inhabitants live by industry, not
Denmark,
route 10.Copenhagen to elsineub.
commerce. A short skirmish took

place here in 1807 between the Eng
lish troops and the Danish militia,
and ended in the flight of the latter.
About | m. from the town is Valla
Castle, a fine old Gothic building with
2 towers, one round and the other
square, surrounded by deep moats,
and embedded in woods. This pro
perty also constitutes a foundation
for noble maidens.
On leaving Kioge, the road runs for
some time along the coast, but after
wards becomes very uninteresting,
until, within \ m. from Copenhagen,
it reaches the royal palace of Frederiksborg.
5J Copenhagen. (See Route 1.)
77
For description of the town, &c, see

Route 8. From hence a post car
riage must be taken. The road is
carried along the E. bank of the
Roeskilde Fjord all the way to the
small town of
34 Frederikssund, on E. side of
the fjord. In the immediate neigh
bourhood are some of the most in
teresting of those tumuli which abound
in Denmark, from the spoil of which
the museums of the capital have de
rived many of their choicest speci
mens, and which must ever be objects
of the highest interest both to the
antiquarian and the traveller. The
one which will best repay the labour
of complete inspection is the sepul
chral tumulus at Udtelre, a few (Eng
lish), miles from Frederikssund. ' ' It
ROUTE 10.
is inclosed," says a Danish writer,
COPENHAGEN TO E1SINEUE BY KOE- " in a very regular, almost globular
SKILDE, I'REDEKIKSSOND, FREDEKIKS- hillock, the circumference of which,
VCERK, FREDERIKSEORG, AND FKE- at the foot, may be about 100 paces ;
there are no circles of stones, nothing
DENSBORG.
on the exterior of the hill to attract
Distance, 16 Dan. m. ; about 76 particular notice. On the east side of
Eng.
the hill is an opening a little above
This Route comprises some of the the level of the ground, formed of 4
most celebrated and interesting places blocks of granite, the uppermost pro
as well as the finest forest scenery in jecting somewhat above the others.
Zealand, and no travellers visiting The descent to the subterraneous
Denmark should omit taking it, if vault is very narrow ; the passage
from this opening, which is about 4
possible.
Railway trains for Roeskilde leave feet high, 3 feet wide, and 4 or 5
Copenhagen, and return 2 or 3 times yards in length, is formed of hewn
a day, running the distance in about granite ; the entrance to the tumulus
1 hour. Fare, 1st class, 6 marks ; itself is by a squai'e aperture.
return tickets 9, and an allowance is Difficult, however," he continues,
also made where several persons are ' ' as the access may be, the visitor
will find himself amply compensated
travelling together.
There is nothing of interest in the for the trouble he has been at. By
scenery till near Roeskilde, when the the light of a lantern he will discover
views become extensive and lovely to 15 large blocks of granite, of which
wards the N. and W. During the some are two yards and upwards in
summer, a steamer runs occasionally height above the ground, placed in an
on Sunday from Roeskilde to Fre- oval form about 7 yards in length, and
deriksvcerk and back, stopping several 3 in breadth in the middle. ' Above
hours at the latter place. The times these blocks, which are closely fixed,
of departure and return are arranged there are four of a much larger and
more irregular shape, forming the
to meet the trains from Copenhagen.
4 Roeskilde. Inn ; Prindsen. ceiling. Every opening caused by the
73
eoute 10.Copenhagen to Ei.siNEUR.
irregular forms of the large stones

has been closed up with smaller ones,
and the blocks forming the walls
have been carefully fitted together
with wedges of granite or sand-stone
many of these wedges cannot be re
moved without breaking them. The
cave, in fact, appears rather to have
been cut in the solid rock than to be
a burial chamber formed of several
blocks of stone ; one of the irregular
masses of stone forming the ceiling is
above 4 yards in length, and 2 in
breadth ; the height of the cave
varies from 3 to 4 yards. The bottom
is covered with yellow sand, in which
are embedded a few flint stones."
The key of the subterraneous vault is
kept at the cottage at the foot of the
tumulus. Another tumulus, at a
short distance, is said to have been the
last resting-place of King Frode the
Good.
From Frederikssund there is a ferry
across the fjord to
JyEGEKSPRns, a promontory covered
with a noble forest, and ornamented
with a fine old royal hunting seat.
Theferry-house on the Jaegerspriis side
is a tolerably good Inn.
Some of the trees in the park are
of enormous dimensions, particularly
one "gnarled oak," which may well
be termed the forest monarch, and is
by Danish foresters thought to be no
less than a thousand years old. A
number of monuments, executed by
Wiedeveltin Norwegian marble, were
erected by the late Prince Frederik, in honour of distinguished
Danes, Norsemen, and Germans.
Perhaps the most interesting is the
pillar surmounted by a globe, dedi
cated to the memory of the " starry"
Tycho Brahe, forced by neglect and
ill-usage to leave the land his name
had honoured, and seek a distant re
fuge wherein to live and die in peace.
The obelisk of Luther, with its gilded
star, will soon be levelled with its
parent earth. Few of the remaining
names are familiar to English ears,
Denmark.
except those of Shumacher Count

Griffenfeldt, Romer, the discoverer of
the laws of the propagation of light,
Tordenskiold, the famous Danish ad
miral, with whose deeds of high
daring the history of Denmark
abounds, and Holberg the dramatist.
In the so-called pheasant garden,
which is laid out in the old French
style, is a beech, whose boughs, bent
down to the earth, form a verdant
saloon of such capacious dimensions
that 60 persons at one time dined
beneath its shade.
On returning to Frederikssund, the
road from thence continues N., close
along the E. shore of the fjord, to the
small town of
Frederiksvosrk, (Inn : Larsen's,) is situated on the Arresbe, the
largest lake in Zealand. The landlord
at the Inn will obtain orders to view
the Royal Manufactories here, which
are the largest in Denmark, and
under the administration of military
authorities resident on the spot. The
principal articles manufactured are
cutlery, all kinds of fire-arms (some
of a novel Danish invention), and
weapons, cannon, and gunpowder.
From hence our Route is to the S.
extremityof the Arresbe, when it turns
E. to
3 Frederiksborg. Inn : Abel
Petersen's, clean and good, but care
must be taken beforehand to arrange
as to prices. This place is 4^ D. m.
N. of Copenhagen.
The lion here is the Royal Castle,
which was built by Christian IV.,
from 1606-20, and Heenwinkel was
the name of the principal architect.
This castle, which is one of the most
interesting and imposing edifices in
Denmark, is built of red brick, in
the Gothic style, on three little is
lands in a small lake, which are con
nected by bridges. The chief wing
so completely covers the island on
which it is built, that it seems to rise
immediately from the water, as
though called forth by the wand of an
Denmark.
route 10. frederiksborg.
enchanter. The village of Hillerod

surrounds the castle lake on three
sides, and on the fourth it is bounded
by pleasant walks and gardens laid
out on the sloping banks of the lake,
the whole forming a beautiful and ro
mantic picture.
. The fee of the Custode for seeing
the interior of the castle is 3 rix. d. ,
whether for one person or a party.
The objects most worthy of atten
tion are the elaborately carved and
decorated ceiling in the Riddersal
(Knight's Hall) ; and the collection of
portraits, which have been admirably
arranged by the learned and amiable
Professor Hoyen, but which, with very
few exceptions, are alone interesting
in an historical point of view, and
not as works of art.
Observe the staircase leading from
the courtyard up to the Riddersal,
which is over the chapel, and of the
same length and breadth, but too low
in proportion. The ceiling is deco
rated in a most elaborate style with
carvings, gildings, and paintings, in
terspersed with inscriptions in Danish
and in Latin. It is said that 26 ar
tists worked for 7 years at this ceiling,
and, while gazing at its innumerable
quaint devices, one can hardly doubt
the correctness of the assertion. There
are several portraits here of the sove
reigns of Denmark, but none of any
excellence.
The collection of portraits is very
extensive, and contained in several
rooms in the E. wing of the castle. It
comprises not only members of the
royal family of Denmark, and those
of other countries, but likewise most
of the distinguished Danes of the pre
sent and last two centuries, statesmen,
warriors, philosophers, authors, ar
tists, &c. Amongst the latter Thorwaldsen most justly holds a distin
guished place. Also the portrait of
the unhappy Caroline Matilda, sister
of George III., the infamously-treated
Queen of Christian VII. She died at
the early age of 23, in 1776. In one
79
of the state rooms leading to the Royal

Closet in the Chapel, in the N. wing,
she wrote with a diamond upon the
window the following words :
" O, keep me innocent, make others great."
Those who know her sad history will
feel the pathos and beauty of this
prayer, emanating from a young and
broken heart.
The chapel, in which all the late
kings of Denmark have been crowned,
is 160 feet long, 40 feet broad, and
34 feet high. The extraordinary
richness and profusion of its architec
tural ornaments form a striking con
trast to the rigid simplicity of the
more ancient Gothic edifices in the
country. The pulpit and the altar,
which are constructed of ebony and
silver, and contain upwards of 600
pounds of the precious metal, may, as
to exquisite workmanship, as well as
intrinsic value, be compared to the
most costly church ornaments in
Christendom. Above the altar runs
a gallery, in which are suspended the
arms of the Knights of the Elephant,
the first order in Denmark.
The Royal Closet is highly decorated
also, chiefly with carved ornaments of
ebony and ivory, many of the latter
said to be wrought by the hands of
Christian IV.
The gardens of the castle are laid
out in the French style. There is an
extensive and picturesque view from
the Upper Terrace.
There are several lovely walks
around Frederiksborg, whence the
castle is seen to great advantage, as,
for instance, the castle garden, the
Jsegerhoi (the Hunter's hill), and
Kongens-indhegning (the King's en
closure). From an eminence on Hille
rod Common there is a charming view
over the lakes of Arre and Esrom, the
shores of the Baltic, the island of
Hveen, and the distant shores of
Sweden.
At a short distance from the castle
are the stables for the Royal Stud.
BO
route 10. Copenhagen to elsineur.
The most remarkable among the dif

ferent breeds is one of white horses,
which is said to exist, at present, only
in Denmark and in Hanover.
Those who delight in woodland
scenery will be tempted to linger here
some time. The Royal Forest is ex
ceedingly extensive, abounds in mag
nificent beech trees, and the drives and
walks in it are beautiful. Quantities
of game of all sorts are here, the forest
being strictly preserved. Indeed, the
whole island of Zealand forms a Royal
chase, as no one is allowed to shoot
there without permission from the
crown.
From Frederiksborg a road leads
through the forest which extends
nearly all the way to
1 Fkedensbokg (the Castle of
Peace), so called from the peace con
cluded with the Swedes in 1720.
(Inn: Liebst's.) This palace is
situated upon the Esrom Lake, .and
was built about 1720, in the *time of
Frederick IV. It contains about 500
cabinet pictures, chiefly of the Flemish
and Dutch schools, but even the best
of them are of a poor class. The en
trance hall, which is decorated with
paintings in honour of the peace, is
particularly striking. The greater
number of the apartments in the pa
lace are inhabited by families belong
ing to the higher classes of society,
but whose pecuniary circumstances
render a dwelling free of expense a
welcome boon.' The gardens, which
extend to the shores of the Esrom
Lake, are ornamented with busts and
statues by Wiedevelt, a Danish sculp
tor, but neglect and long exposure to
the weather have almost ruined them.
The views from these gardens over the
lake are very lovely.
A canal cut from the northern ex

tremity of the Esrom Lake connects
it with the Kattegat, and is used for
the conveyance of wood and timber
from the extensive forests that fringe
its banks.
At the so-callel Skipperhuus, in
Denmark.
the gardens of Fredensborg, boats

may be had for pleasure excursions
on the lake. A visit to the village of
Noddebo, embosomed in the wood on
the opposite bank of the lake, will
reward the trouble. From an emi
nence, called Frodes Hoi, in the forest,
a little to the west of Noddebo, there
is a very fine view over the Sound,
the Kattegat, and the coasts of Swe
den.
In going from Fredensborg to Elsineur the road passes near Gurre, a
hamlet 1 m. W. of Elsineur. Roman
tically situated on the wooded banks
of the little Gurre Lake, are the rem
nants of a castle which was, in the
14th century, the favourite place of
residence of King Valdemar IV., who,
like Henry II. of England, concealed
in this sequestered nook his illegiti
mate love (known in Danish history
under the name of Tovelil, little Tove)
from the watchful jealousy, of his
queen. Valdemar is said to have been
so much attached to this locality, that
he used frequently to declare that if
God would leave him Gurre, he would
not envy Him" heaven ; a blasphemy
for which tradition here has punished
him by condemning him to hunt every
night through the surrounding forests
with dogs and horses having flaming
tongues.
2 Elsineur (Dan. Helsingiir).
Inn: Hotel d'Oresund, the landlord
speaks English. Tolerably good. Bed,
4 marks.' Breakfast, 2 m. Table
d'hote at 2 o'clock, 4 m. \ bot.
sherry, 5 m. Tea. 2 m. There are
two or three other inferior houses.
Consuls for most nations reside here.
The town contains about 8000 in
habitants ; it is beautifully situated
on the W. side of the Sound, and di
rectly opposite the Swedish town of
Helsingborg, 3 Eng. m. distant. In
severe winters the . Sound is frozen
over, and the ice then forms a firm
bridge between the two countries. In
spring, when it breaks up, it is like a
floating glacier. In the town there is
Denmark,
eoute 10.elsineub.keonboeg castle.
nothing of interest ; the charm of the

place consists in the great beauty of
its situation, commanding most lovely
and extensive views over the Baltic,
with Sweden in the distance, while
the scene is enlivened by the continual
arrival and departure of large vessels
passing the Sound. For the marine
painter it is admirable sketchingground. But the lion of the place is
the Cathedral, which contains some
fine tombs, and many of them very
old.
Kronborg Castle, built during the
reign of Frederick II., about 1580,
and in the time of Tycho Brahe. It
is upon the N. of the town, and close
upon the shore of the Sound, which
its guns command in all directions.
The castle is built of white stone, in
the Gothic style, and in parts some
what reminds one of Heidelberg. It
is surrounded by strong fortifications
of comparatively modern construction.
No permission is requisite to enter the
castle, which may be seen at all times.
The courtyard is particularly spacious
and handsome. The Chapel is in the
N.E. corner, and should be seen ; it
has recently been restored, but not
with sufficient care. There is a good
modern picture here by a Danish ar
tist. The Lighthouse, or the platform
of the Great Tower, should be as
cended for the fine view they com
mand around the castle ; the entrance
to the Lighthouse is in the N.W.
corner of . the court-yard. In the
apartments which are shown there is
nothing worth notice ; the interesting
portion of them is in the S. W. corner,
now occupied .by the Commandant.
There it was that the unfortunate
Caroline Matilda, queen of the weak
and vicious Christian VII., was im
prisoned until the interference of her
brother George III., and other rela
tions in England, procured her re
moval to Zell, in Hanover, where she
died three years afterwards. She
fell the victim of a plot formed by
the Queen Mother to seize upon th3
81
administration of the Government.

This ruthless woman caused the
Prime Minister, Struensee, and se
veral of his adherents, to be arrested
in January 1772. On the following
morning the Queen, accused of
adultery with Struensee, half dressed,
and struggling for her liberty, was
torn from her chamber and hurried
to this fortress. Struensee and his
friends were nominally tried for
treason and executed ; and the Queen
would have incurred the same fate,
but for her close connection with
England. The Danes have done her
tardy justice, but the feeling amongst
them now appears to be unanimous,
that she was innocent of the crime
with which 'she was charged, and
that, at the early age of 23, she died
a victim to the policy and ambitious
designs of the Queen Mother ; the
naturally weak mind of the King
having, by a course of vicious
habits, become reduced to premature
dotage.
Under the castle there are deep
and roomy casemates capable of hold
ing 1000 men. M. Thiele, in his
collection of popular Danish tradi
tions, states that one of these dark
and mysterious vaults is assigned as
the dwelling-place of Holger Danske,
the Danish Roland, the hero of a
thousand legends. - He never appears
on the surface of the earth, save when
the State is in danger, then he marches
at the head of its armies. A peasant,
says the legend, who once by some
strange accident was introduced to his
presence, found him seated at a stone
table, to which his long white beard
had grown fast. "Give me thy hand,"
was his greeting to the trembling pea
sant, who, afraid of trusting his di
minutive limb to the mighty grasp
held out to receive it, presented in its
place the iron bar of the door. Holger
Danske having ' given it a hearty
squeeze which left the impress of his
fingers on the iron, then exclaimed
with a grim smile of pleasure, " Ha I
8:2
nouTE 10.Copenhagen to elsineur.
I see there are still men in Den

mark t" In one of the casemates the
visitor is shown a stone called Holger
Danske's pillow. The name of this
mighty Kcempe is likewise associated
with numerous other places in Den
mark.
In 1801, the British fleet, under
Sir Hyde Parker, with Nelson second
in command, forced this passage of
the Sound prior to storming Copen
hagen, la 1807, the fleet, under
Gtambier, passed through the Great
Belt, and anchored off Copenhagen,
prior to the siege.
On the Common immediately be
yond the gates of the castle there are
two natural ponds, which being round
and very close to each other, are
honoured with the name of Holger
Danske's spectacles.
A short distance N.W. of Elsineur,
is the small royal chateau of Marienlist. The pleasure grounds behind
the chateau are open to the public.
They occupy the site of an old fortifi
cation on the crest of a hill. Nothing
can well be more lovely than the
views from hence, as seen beneath the
luxuriant shade of the fine trees
which ornament this charming spot.
At one sweep, the eye ranges over the
town of Elsineur, the noble fortress
of Kronborg, the Sound, the town of
Helsingborg on the opposite coast,
and the plains of Sweden, with the
blue waters of the Baltic bounding the
horizon on the S. in the far distance.
Towards evening it becomes addition
ally interesting, as in summer there
are usually a number of vessels enter
ing the Sound, previously to anchor
ing for the night.
Any heap of stones with Runic in
scriptions upon them, and said to
denote "Hamlet's grave," will be in
vain searched for here, even if they
ever existed. In fact, Hamlet's
identification with this enchanting
spot is at best but a Shaksperian
fiction. Hamlet's country was not
Zealand, but Jutland. Here the
Denmark.
name was pronounced Amlet, signi

fying madman. According to the
Danish history of old Saxo Graminatieus, Hamlet was not the son of
a Danish king, but of a famous
pirate chief, who was governor of
Jutland in conjunction with his
brother. Hamlet's father married
the daughter of the Danish king, and
the issue of that marriage was
Hamlet. Hamlet's father was sub
sequently murdered by his brother,
who married the widow, and suc
ceeded to the government of the
whole of Jutland. As a pagan, it
was Hamlet's first duty to avenge his
father. The better to conceal his
purpose he feigned madness. His
uncle, suspecting it to be feigned,
sent him to England, with a request
to the king that he would put Hamlet
to death. He was accompanied by
two creatures of his uncle, whose
letter to the English king was carved
upon wood, according to the custom
of the period. This Hamlet during
the voyage contrived to get posses
sion of, and so altered the characters
as to make it a request that his two
companions should be slain, and
which was accordingly done on their
arrival in England. He afterwards
married the daughter of the English
king, but subsequently returning to
Jutland, and still feigning madness,
contrived to surprise and slay his
uncle, after upbraiding him with his
various crimes. Hamlet then became
governor of Jutland, married a second
time to a queen of Scotland, and was
eventually killed in battle. The
whole history of Hamlet is carefully
and minutely detailed, but these are
the leading historical features upon
which Shakspere founded his beauti
ful tragedy ; and rude and disgusting
as many of the incidents in Hamlet's
life were, the mode in which Shak
spere has treated them is one of the
greatest proofs of his splendid genius.
According to Saxo, Hamlet lived
about four centuries before Christ.
Denmark, route 11.Copenhagen to aarhuus.Jutland. 83

The Sound Duties.This impost
is now (1858) abolished : the various
nations of the world having come to
an agreement to pay a certain sum,
proportioned to their trade with the
Baltic, in commutation of them : of
which England's share amounted to
about a million and a quarter. Their
origin is doubtful, some authors sug
gesting that they were established by
the Danes, when supreme in the
Baltic ; others, that they were to
defray the expense of maintaining
lighthouses on the coast. Certain it
is that the right of Denmark to them,
in the 15th century, rested upon a
very ancient custom, and that, after
endless broils respecting them, they
were finally guaranteed to Den
mark by the treaty of Vienna, in
1815.
AllebeL; a village to the N. of
Elsineur, with a gun manufactory,
is a very interesting and picturesque
spot.
1 mile further on is Uornhek, the
largest fishing village in Zealand.
' ' The views along the whole of the
northern coast, over the Sound to the
Kullen in Sweden, and towards the
castle of Kronborg, are enchanting,
and black ink, white paper, and a
goose quill can give no adequate idea
of them. "Kohl.
Steamers. To Copenhagen every
morning at 7, returning in the evening.
Passage averages 3 hours, calling at
several places en route. Fare, 6
marks. A slight search of baggage
is made on landing in Copenhagen.
To Helsingborg in Sweden daily at
5 h. 30 m. a.m. and at 6 p.m. Fare,
2 marks. The Norwegian mail
steamer from Christiania to Copen
hagen and back also calls here once a
week.
g
A Diligencele&ves Copenhagen every
morning. It is 5 hours on the road,
which has little of interest upon it.
The stages are :
Dan. m.
Elsineur to Hirscholm 2
Lyngby .
.
.14
Copenhagen .
.14
5
equal to about 224 Eng. m.
ROUTE 11.
COPENHAGEN TO AARTIUUS, AND
SOUND JUTLAND.
Steamers in summer from Copen
hagen to Aarhuus on Fridays at 7
A.M. ; and from Korsor daily at
10.30 A.M.
The land route there is tedious and
uninteresting. Those who desire to
follow it, will go from Copenhagen to
Roeskilde by railway, and thence
take a conveyance to the town of
Kallundborg, on the W. coast of
Zealand. From thence the journey
to Aarhuus must be made in boats.
By this way the distances will be
about 60 Eng. m. by land, and 50 by
water ; together 111 m.
Another route, by land all the way
with the exception of crossing the
Great and Little Belts, is to follow
Route 8 from Copenhagen as far as
Haderslev, or, diverging at Odense, to
cross the Little Belt from Middelfart
to Kolding. A diligence leaves
Haderslev every day at 8 p.m. for
Aarhuus. The stages are Christiansfeldt, 2 ; Kolding, 2 ; Veile, 3 ;
Horsens, 3 ; Skanderborg, 24 ;
Aarhuus, 3. See this Route below
and Route 8.
Jutland.
This was the cradle of the formid
able Cimbri, and of the Jutes and
Angli, who invaded England at a
later period. In conjunction with
other Scandinavian tribes, they were
for centuries the terror of the rest o
Europe ; so much so, that in the 9th
century these words were added to
the Litany"A furore Normanorum, libera nos, O Dominel"
8-1
eoute 11.Copenhagen to aarhuus.
This wild and interesting peninsula

stretches into the German Ocean,
until it narrows to a point at Skagen,
around which is a reef of quicksands.
In winter the seas here are terrific,
and the loss of life at times has been
fearful. In the war of 1807, 3
English ships of the line were lost off
here, and the crews, amounting to
upwards of 2000 men, nearly all
perished. Von Buck (p. 457) thus
describes this fearful coast on the
W. side, as he saw it in 1808. " In
proceeding along the coast we saw in
the distance interminable rows of
stranded vessels. Thousands of masts
and skeletons of vessels ran like an
alley or range of palisadoes, the
whole 73 miles of our course." The
most fatal gales here are from the
N.W.
During the 10th and 11th centuries
the whole of Jutland was covered with
forest. Its present character is thus
described by Hans C. Andersen.
"Towards the East extend immense
woods and hills ; towards the North,
sea, mountains, and quicksands,
scenery of a grand and solitary
character ; and, between the two,
infinite expanses of brown heath,
with their wandering gipsies, their
wailing birds, and their deep soli
tude." The Danish poet Steen
Blicher, in his novels, has laid many
of his scenes in Jutland.
The rivers of Jutland are small,
but the lakes are numerous and ex
tensive, and noted for the quantity
of fish they contain. Game and wild
fowl are spoken of as being very
abundant, particularly upon the large
heaths and about the lakes. Travel
lers in Jutland must lay in a good
stock of patience, as the roads in
some parts are very sandy and bad.
Aarhuus. Inns : Hotel Royal
and Schucani's. Aarhuus, the chief
town of the Stift or province of that
name, has about 7000 inhabitants,
and is prettily situated in a valley,
surrounded on three sides by gentle
Denmark.
hills, and bounded on the fourth by

the sea. The Cathedral is one of the
largest and finest in Denmark, built
in the same simple but noble style of
Gothic architecture which prevails
throughout the Scandinavian coun
tries. Its chief spire, 600 feet high,
was struck down . by lightning in
1642, -and in. 1822 a violent storm
demolished another, 60 feet high.
The remaining two are unimpaired.
In the interior there are several re
markable monuments, among others,
one erected over a Baron Marsilis,
and executed by the well-known
artist, Thomas Quillinus, in 1703.
From Skovbakken, an eminence in
the town, there is a fine view of the
port, the sea, and the surrounding
woods. One of these, called Marselisseborg Wood, and belonging to
the manor of that name, is a favourite
place of resort with the townspeople.
In the town, the gardens of Mr. Bee
are open to the public. The Ceme
tery of St. Olaf is worth visiting on
account of the view which it affords
over the Kaloer bay and the Island
of Kal'6, which is connected with the
continent by means of a stone bridge
700 ells long. - On this island are
the interesting ruins of a castle in
which Gustavus Vasa was imprisoned
in 1518. The castle was demolished
in 1670, and part of the materials
used for the erection of the palace of
Charlottenborg in Copenhagen. On
the south side of the town is a sconce,
erected by Wallenstein during the
thirty years' war. One mile from
the town is the manor of Mosgaard,
beautifully situated in a hilly country
on the richly-wooded coast.
From Aarhuus the road keeps S. W.
to
3 Scandeeboko. Inns : Schandorffs and Marcussen's. The environs
of this little town rival in beauty the
loveliest spots in Denmark. The
only building worth any notice is the
church, which, though small, is
tastefully decorated in the interior,
Denmark.
BOUTE 11.JUTLAND.HOESKSS, ETC.
and derives an interest from being

a remnant of the ancient castle of
Skanderborg, which has played a
prominent part in Danish history,
and under the walls of which the
famous patriot, Niels Ebbesen, met
his death in 1342. Among the
lakes that surround the town, and
abound in fish, the largest, named
Skanderborg Lake, is remarkable as
haying been the scene of the first
exploits of King Christian IV., the
naval hero of Denmark, who used,
when a youth, to practise seamanship
on this lake. It is surrounded by
fertile meadows, rich corn-fields, and
extensive woods, and on its bosom
rises a little island affording delightful
shady walks.
On the W. of the town is the
pretty country seat, Leegaardslyst,
with several interesting monuments
of Scandinavian antiquity, and a view
over the large Mos-soe (Mos-lake),
and the surrounding forests, covering
an area of 12,500 acres. N. of the
Mos-sbe, on the banks of the Iuulsoe,
is the Himmelbierg (Heaven moun
tain),- the highest point in Denmark,
which, though only 550 feet above
the level of the sea, has the ap
pearance of being much higher, as its
eastern side descends very precipi
tously to the lake which reposes at
its foot. The west side, diversified
with clumps of trees, slopes gradually
down to the village of Rye. The
summit of this eminence commands a
most enchanting prospect.
The road from Skanderborg to
Horsens runs through an equally
luxuriant and romantic country, and,
particularly when it reaches an emi
nence called Ousted hill, 1| mile from
Horsens, commands a noble view.
3 Horsens.Inns : Mynster's and
Jorgensen's. This town, one of the
prettiest and most thriving in Den
mark, has several good streets and
buildings, and 4000 inhabitants. The
pulpit in St. Ib's Church, made of
ebony and other costly woods, is a
85
very fine piece of workmanship. The

Abbey Church (Klosterkirke), which
formerly belonged to a convent of
Franciscan monks, is no longer used,
but contains the monuments of the
Russian princesses, the sisters of the
unfortunate Ivan, who dragged out
the remains of their miserable exist
ence in this little town. The altarpiece is a curious specimen of wood
carving. The town is surrounded by
noblemen's and gentlemen's seats,
some of which are well worth visiting.
Among these are Steensballegaard,
Boiler, and Bygholm. In the church
of Woehr, a village on the estate of
Steensballegaard, are interred the re
mains of the unfortunate Count Griffenfeldt, (who was so long imprisoned
in the fortress of Munkholm, near
Trondhjem,) and in that of Udt, be
longing to Boiler, are some fine sarco
phagi of the Gyllenstiernes and Rosenkrandses. Boiler was at one time
the residence of Christine Munk, the
wife of Christian IV. and the mother
of Eleanor Ulfeldt. At Bygholm there
is a good collection of paintings, and
the gardens and grounds are particu
larly fine.
4 Veile, (Inn: the Post-house,
Post-gaarden,) a pretty and cheerfullooking little town, in a deep valley
on the shores of the fjord of the same
name. The bay and town are hemmed
in by a ridge of high and luxuriantlywooded hills which have an air of
boldness and grandeur quite un
common in Danish scenery. Veile,
though now dwindled down into an
insignificant provincial town, as is the
case with most of the towns of Den
mark, was during the middle ages a
place of some note. Here it was that
the ambitious Archbishop Jacob Erlandsen held, in 1256, the famous
synod which consolidated the power of
the Danish clergy by the promulgation
of the constitutions of Veile ; here,
also, Christian II. received the letter
in which the council of the realm and
the nobility announced the withdrawal
80
route 11.Copenhagen to AARHtTDs.
of their allegiance from him. The

church, which is very ancient, is be
lieved to date from the commencement
of the reign of Canute the Great. In
one of the vaults is deposited the
body of a female which was found in
a state of petrifaction in a bog in the
neighbourhood in 1835, and which all
researches combine in proving to be
that of the Norwegian queen, Gunild,
who was murdered in the beginning
of the 10th century by Harold Blaatand (Bluetooth), the then reigning
king of Denmark, who had a castle in
this neighbourhood, on the estate
which still bears the name of Haroldskiter.
About 2J m. from Veile, on the
borders of a lake, lies the manor of
Engelsholm, built in the Gothic style,
with four towers with tapering spires,
by the brother of Tycho Brahe, after
a design by the celebrated astronomer.
The house is surrounded by handsome
gardens and grounds. One of the
rooms, which traverses the whole
length of the building, is floored with
boards, each 48 feet long, and cut out
of the masts of vessels wrecked on the
western shores of Jutland, and thence
transported to this place : a strange
memento, in this calm and tranquil
spot, of the storms that rage in lessfavoured localities. Close to Engelaholm's paper manufactory commences
the wild and desolate heath which
traverses the middle tract of Jutland,
and forms so striking a contrast to the
fertile and smiling landscapes of the
E. coast.
One m. to the N. of Veile is the
village of Jdlinge, with the remains
of the ancient Kongsgaard (King's
castle) : in the 9th century this castle
was the residence of Gorm the Old
and his popular queen, Thyra Dannebod. On each side of the village
church are their graves, with the re
nowned Jellinge stones, the most re
markable monuments of Scandinavian
antiquity. The inscriptions on these
stones, in Runic characters, are still
Denmark.
perfectly legible. Barretskov and

Rosenvold, two manorial seats on the
N. side of the beautiful wooded coast
at the entrance of Veile Fjord, are
very interesting specimens of old
Danish architecture.
From Veile the road continues S.,
in part through extensive tracts of
forest, until Route 8 is joined at
34 Kolding. Inn : Madsen's.
From hence tourists have the choice
of 4 routes : 1st, direct to Copen
hagen by Odense and Nyeborg (as in
Route 8) ; 2nd, from Nyeborg through
the Islands to Copenhagen (Route 9) ;
3rd, from Kolding through Christiansfeldt and Haderslev to Hamburg
(Route 8) ; and 4th, round Jutland.
Following the latter Route, as be
neath, the total distance from Kolding
back to Aarhuus is about 420 Eng.
m. Tolerable accommodation will be
found at the ferry-houses, and also in
the towns in this little-frequented dis
trict.
From a short distance N. of Kold
ing, a by-road crosses the peninsula
to
Rib (or Ripen), at the mouth of
the Nibes, and nearly upon the W.
coast. Vast tracts of heath are seen
upon this road. Manufactures of cloth
are carried on here. The Cathedral
contains the tombs of several of the
Danish kings. The numerous tumuli
in this neighbourhood have largely
contributed to the formation of the
Museum of Northern Antiquities in
Copenhagen.
From Ribe a high road leads N.
through wild tracts of heath and
marsh to
Varde, on the Holen River, and
also close upon the W. coast. From
hence, continuing N. by the large
Ringkiobing Fjord, and crossing seve
ral streams, the next town is
Ringkiobing, at the head of the
fjord. From hence the high road con
tinues N. till it reaches the Stor River,
when it turns E. to
Hostlebko, on the Stor River. To
Denmark.
eoute 11.vjbokg, aalborg, etc.
the N. of this place lies the vast Ltim

Fjord; and some of the wildest por
tions of Jutland are in this neighbour
hood. To the E. from hence the high
road passes through extensive tracts of
heath to
Viborg.This is one of the most
ancient cities in Denmark, and was
formerly a place of considerable im
portance. A large fair is held here
about the end of June. The town is
built upon the W. bank of a small
lake.
Continuing N.E. a number of
streams are crossed, and some charm
ing lake and forest scenery is passed,
before arriving at
Hobko, at the head of the Manager
Fjord, and upon the high road between
the N. of Jutland and the capital.
From Hobro the road passes over wide
districts of heath, and through an ex
tensive forest on the way to
Aalborg, the capital of Jutland,
and situated on the S. side of the
narrow entrance of the iMm, Fjord.
The population is about 7100. It is
the seat of a bishopric, and has a
gymnasium or college, an episcopal
library of 11,000 vols, a school of
navigation, a hospital, and several
other charitable institutions. The
city is intersected by two small rivers
and is surrounded by moats. Several
curious and interesting buildings exist
in this town. A considerable trade is
carried on, chiefly arising from the
agricultural produce of the lands bor
dering upon the fjord and the herring
fishery. There are also several manu
factories in the town. In 1534, during
a rebellion in Jutland, this city was
taken by storm ; and every man was
put to the sword ; 2000 peasants fell
here upon that occasion. The cityissaid
to derive its name from the vast num
ber of eels found in the waters about
it ; Aal-borg meaning Eel-town. A
diligence runs from here daily at 8
p.m., through Hobro, Kanders, Aarhuus, &c. , to Haderslev : see Route 8
and early part of this Route.
87
The fjord from hence is crossed by

a ferry of about 1 Eng. m. to
Sundby, and the road continuing
nearly due N. through tracta of marsh
and heath, reaches
Hjorring, about 2 miles from the
wildest and most dangerous part of
the W. coast, which should be visited
from hence. There are several vil
lages where accommodation may be
obtained.
Turning due E. from Hjorring, the
high road is continued to the small
town of
Frederikshavn, upon the E. coast.
The Norwegian steamer, which leaves
Kiel for Christiania on Saturdays at
noon touches here both going and
returning. From hence a by-road
leads close along the coast, or a
boat can be taken to the small town
of
Skagen, the most N. in Jutland,
and close to the Land's End, known
as "The Skaw." From Frederikshavn
to Skagen is about 5 m.
Returning to Frederikshavn, a by
road S. leads near the shore through
lovely woodland scenery to another
small town upon the coast,
Sjsby. From hence the same by
road passes through splendid woods
and a lovely country back to
Aalborg. From here a by-road to
the S.E. passes through numerous
villages and a richly-wooded district
direct to Randers ; but the only high
road is that back to
Hobro, on leaving which the road
continues S.E. to
IIanders. This town is beautifully
situated upon the N. side of the fjord
of that name. From hence by the
direct high road back to A arhwus is
about 5 m. Or the route can be
varied by taking the by-road from
Banders to
Ebeltoft, a town about 6J m. dis
tant, in the most E. portion of the
peninsula, and in the bay of that
name. From thence a boat can be
taken to Aarhuus, about 5 m., or by
88
ROUTE 12 .COPENHAGEN TO ICELAND.
the Island of Samsoe, to the small

town of
Kallunborq, in Zealand, about 9
m., and from thence back to Copen
hagen, 11 m.
ROUTE 12.
COPENHAGEN TO ICELAND, CALLING AT
ABERDEEN, AND THE OEKNEY, SHET
LAND, AND FAROE ISLANDS.
Steamers are sometimes talked of to
run on this line, but no such arrange
ments are yet in force, and the only
mode of getting at Iceland is to wait
at Copenhagen or Aberdeen for some
merchant vessel, which is going there.
The Danish post vessel goes 5 or 6
times in the year from Copenhagen.
Care should be taken to inspect per
sonally any vessel, previous to taking
a passage, as the accommodations are
often very bad and dirty.
The distances from Copenhagen to
Iceland by this Route are about as
follows : Copenhagen to Aberdeen,
650 m. ; the Orkneys, 130 ; the Shetlands, 110 ; the Faroe, 240 ; and
Reikiavik in Iceland, 600 ; in all
1730 Eng. m. The average passage
will probably be 10 or 11 days, includ
ing stoppages at the places called at.
The chief cabin fare for the whole
voyage out and home, 3460 Eng. m. ,
about 240 Dan. rix dol. , say 271.
Eng., exclusive of food. There is an
admirable map of Iceland published
in Copenhagen by the Danish Govern
ment. The best books on Iceland are
" Nicol's Historical and Descriptive
account of Iceland, Greenland, and
the Faroe Islands," Oliver and Boyd,
Edinburgh, 1844; " Barrow's Voyage
to Iceland," 1835 ; "Dillon's Winter
in Iceland and Lapland," 1844 ; "A
translation of Madame Ida Pfeiffer's
Voyage to Iceland," 1852; "Lord
Dufferin's Letters from High Lati
tudes," 1857.
Aberdeen. The various and hand
some structures of granite in this
Denmark.
rising town will afford abundant occu

pation and interest while the steamer
remains here.
Conveyances S. are frequent and
rapid.
The Orkney Islands
form a group of 67, of which about
30 are inhabited. Of these Pomona,
or Mainland, is nearly as large as all
the rest put together. Kirkwall, the
capital, is on the E. coast of Pomona,
and Stromness on the W. They are
the two largest towns. Near the latter
are the celebrated ' ' standing stones
of Stennis, " which in magnitude and
singular character almost rival Stonehenge.
These islands are most irregular in
form, being separated from each other
by narrow straits, and penetrated with
deep sounds in all directions. They
are mostly low and bare, except upon
the W., where the cliffs are bold and
rugged. The inhabitants make hardy
and excellent seamen. Cattle and
wild fowl abound ; and these, with
the produce of the fisheries, kelp, and
a few small manufactures of wool and
linen, comprise the chief support of
the people. Kelp is the staple com
modity for export, and gives employ
ment to several thousand hands.
Moor game is met with in great num
bers. The population in 1S41 was
30,441.
Kirkwall is said to have been
founded in 1138, by Ronald, count of
Norway ; it was formerly the resi
dence of the sovereign Earls of Ork
ney, the ruins of whose palace still
exist, together with those of the
bishop's palace, and the castle. The
cathedral is a large and massive Gothic
edifice, of about the same period and
style as that at Trondhjem in Norway.
In some parts it is very beautifully
ornamented.
Both the Orkneys and Shetlands
formed part of the Norwegian do
minions down to 1469, when James
III. of Scotland married Margaret,
Denmark,
houte 12. Zetland isles. faroe isles.
daughter of Christian I. These is

lands were then given in pledge for
part of the dowry of the princess ;
and as that was never paid, they have
ever since remained annexed to the
Scottish crown.
These islands are much frequented
by vessels calling, here for provisions,
&c, and afford admirable sketching
ground for the marine painter. On
the N.E. are
The Zetland or Shetland Islands.
Their number is 86, but of these only
about half are inhabited. The largest,
Mainland, itself looks more like a
group of islands, so extensively and
curiously is it indented and cut up by
deep sounds. Lerwick, the capital, is
situated upon the E. side of this is
land, and opposite the island of Bressay, which forms Bressay Sound, one
of the finest harbours in the world,
and the rendezvous of all the vessels
engaged in the whale fishery. Off
Bressay is the Noss, a circular rock
rising perpendicularly from the water
to a vast height. The communication
between Noss and Bressay is main
tained by ropes stretched across, along
which a cradle is hauled, containing
the adventurous passenger. These is
lands are completely denuded of wood,
although formerly large tracts must
have been covered with forest, as ap
pears from the trunks of trees dug
out of the extensive mosses. The
land is very rugged though not moun
tainous. It is calculated that the
whole of the islands comprise about
20, 000 acres of arable land, and about
the same of good meadow ; this is
about ^jth of the whole surface,
the rest of which is chiefly common
and waste, affording scanty pasturage
for horses, cattle, and sheep, all
which, though small, are of good
quality. The wool of the sheep is
celebrated for its exquisite fineness,
and is largely manufactured by the
inhabitants for a variety of objects.
The coasts abound with fish, and the
89
great branch of Shetland industry

consists of the cod and ling fishery,
which renders the men employed in
it admirable seamen. Their landlords
furnish them with boats and nets, on
condition that they shall have the fish
taken at a fixed price. The population
of these Islands in 1841 was 30,355.
The rocks upon the coasts are ex
ceedingly steep and bold, in many
places hollowed into deep caverns,
and broken into precipices and cliffs
of every variety of form. The heavy
seas which continually break with
fury amongst these islands, form a
sublime and ever-varying scene. My
riads of wild fowl inhabit the rocks.
The Shetlands are believed to have
been originally peopled from Norway.
In the 9th century they were con
quered by the Norwegian King Harald
Harfager, or the Fair-haired ; and
from that time to 1469, as before
stated, remained a portion of the Nor
wegian dominions. Amongst the na
tives, the Shetlands still retain the
ancient Norwegian name of Hjaltland.
The Faroe Islands
lie to the N.W. of the Shetlands.
This group comprises 35 islands,, 17
of which are large, and, as well as
some of the smaller ones, are inhabited. Stromsoe is the largest ;
and Thorsharn, the only town and
seat of government, is situated on the
E. side of it. The winters here are
seldom rigorous, and the frosts last
little more than a month. The Dan
ish post ship touches here.
The hills in these islands rise from
1000 to 2800 feet above the level of
the sea, and they are most interesting
ground for the geologist. The pre
vailing rocks are green-stone and claystone of various kinds. The trap
rocks are celebrated for the splendid
zeolites they afford.
"Sudcrbe, the most southern of the
group, differs considerably from the
others. It produces better grain, and
contains beds of coal. Barley and
00
koute 12. Iceland.reikiavik.
oats ripen at 600 feet above the sea.

Grass grows at 2000. The most
striking thing, perhaps, about the
islands is the enormous number of sea
fowl which breed here. For the orni
thologist and egg-collector these islands
are well worth a visit. The gannet,
or solan goose, builds only in Myggences-holm, a precipitous rock, stand
ing alone in the sea, like Ailsa Crag,
or the Mealsack off Iceland. The
island of Nalsoe is pierced from side
to side, so that in calm weather a boat
can sail through it, under a natural
arch, with near 2000 feet of solid rock
overhead. The spoken language of
the Faroese resembles that of the Ice
landers, but their written language is
Danish."Rambles in Iceland, by
Pliny Miles.
By the last census in 1 855 the popula
tion of these islands amounted to 8651.
The inhabitants are chiefly engaged
in breeding cattle, in the fisheries
around the coasts, and in collecting
eider-down, &c.
The Faroe Islands form part of the
Danish dominions. These islands were
discovered during the 9th century, by
the Norwegians, who formed a settle
ment there. They gave them the
name of Faroeer, from the word four,
which, in the old Scandinavian lan
guage, signifies sheep, because that
animal was found in sole possession of
the islands. The wool of the sheep,
like that of the Shetland breed, is
very fine, and its manufacture affords
both profit and occupation to consider
able numbers of the inhabitants.
ICELAND
lies upon the N.W. of the Faroe
Islands, and also belongs to Denmark.
By the last census in 1855 its popula
tion amounted to 04,603. Iceland is
about 220 Eng. m. in length by 210
in breadth, and contains about 40, 000
square m.
The only months proper for visiting
Iceland are June, July, and August ;
the two latter are the best.
Denmark.
Danish silver coin is the only money

in use in Iceland. For value, &c,
see p. 2.
Reikiavik is the modern capital of
the island, and chief place of trade.
' ' The town consists of a collection of
wooden sheds, one story highrising
here and there into a gable end of
greater pretensiofisbuilt along the
lava beach, and flanked at either end
by a suburb of turf huts.
"On every side of it extends a deso
late plain of lava, that once must have
boiled up red hot from some distant
gateway of hell, and fallen hissing into
the sea. No tree or bush relieves the
dreariness of the landscape. The
Cathedral is the only stone building
in Reykjavik : a moderate-sized, un
pretending place, capable of holding
3000 or 4000 people, erected in very
ancient times, but lately restored. "
Lord Dufferirfs Letters from High
Latitudes, p. 36.
There are sailing vessels during the
summer going to Denmark, and occa
sionally to Liverpool.
The primitive wants and habits of
the Icelanders are such that no inns
are to be met with, but travellers may
readily obtain comfortable quarters in
private houses at Reikiavik. At the
farmhouses there is generally a 1 ' gjest
rum" (room), containing, as in Nor
way, the family wardrobe. No one,
however, should visit Iceland who is
not prepared to encounter considerable
hardships in making excursions into
the interior of the country. A tent
should be taken from Reikiavik, and
a waterproof sheet, for sleeping on,
from England, as well as some port
able soup, provisions, &c, and all
necessaries for camping out.
' ' The exports are raw wool, knitted
stockings, mittens, cured cod and fish
oil, whale blubber, fox-skins, eider
downs, feathers, and Iceland moss.
During the last few years they have
amounted to about 1,200,000 lbs. of
wool, and 500,000 pairs of stockings
and mittens. Though Iceland is one
Denmark.
boute 12.Iceland.bevenue, etc.
fifth larger than Ireland, its popula

tion is only about 64,000 persons
scattered along the habitable ring
which runs round between the central
desert and the sea ; of the whole area
of 38,000 square miles, it is calcu
lated that not more than one-eighth
part is occupied, the remaining 33, 000
square miles consisting of naked
mountains of ice, or valleys desolated
by lava or volcanic ashes. Even
Reykjavik itself cannot boast of more
than 700 or 800 inhabitants.
" During winter time the men are
chiefly employed in tending cattle,
picking wool, manufacturing ropes,
bridles, saddles, and building boats.
The fishing season commences in
spring ; in 1853 there were as many
as 3500 boats engaged upon the
water. As summer advances, turfcutting and hay-making begin ; while
the autumn months are principally
devoted to the repairing of their
houses, manuring the grass lands, and
killing and curing of sheep for ex
portation, as well as for their own
use during the winter. The woman
kind of a family occupy themselves
throughout the year in washing, card
ing, and spinning wool, in knitting
gloves and stockings, and in weav
ing frieze and flannel for their own
wear.
' ' The ordinary food of a well-to-do
Icelandic family consists of dried fish,
butter, sour whey kept till fermenta
tion takes place, curds, and skiera
very peculiar cheesea little mutton,
and rye bread. As might be expected,
this meagre fare is not very conducive
to health ; scurvy, leprosy, elephanti
asis, and all cutaneous disorders are
very common, while the practice of
mothers to leave off nursing their
children at the end of three days,
feeding them with cows' milk instead,
results in a frightful mortality among
the babies.
' ' Land is held either in fee-simple,
or let by the Crown to tenants on
what may almost be considered per
91
petual leases. The rent is calculated

partly on the number of acres occu
pied, partly on the head of cattle the
farm is fit to support, and is paid in
kind, either in fish or farm produce.
Tenants in easy circumstances gene
rally employ two or three labourers,
who, in addition to their board and
lodging, receive from ten to twelve
dollars a year of wages. No property
can be entailed, and if any one dies
intestate, what he leaves is distri
buted among his childrenin equal
shares to the sons, in half shares to
the daughters.
"The public revenue arising from
Crown lands, commercial charges, and
a small tax on the transference of
property, amounts to about 3000?. ;
the expenditure for education, officers'
salaries (the Governor has about 400?.
a year), ecclesiastical establishments,
&c., exceeds 6000?. a year.
1 ' The clergy are paid by tithes ;
their stipends are exceedingly small,
generally not averaging more than 61.
or 71. sterling per annum : their chief
dependence being upon their farms."
Lord Vufferin's Letters from High
Latitudes, pp. 142-145.
As there are no roads in Iceland,
the only mode of travelling is upon
foot or horseback. The horses are
most hardy and sagacious little beasts,
and in going through boggy or other
difficult ground should always be
allowed to select their own path.
The chief places of interest are the
Thingvalla, Mount Hecla, and the
Geyser hot springs mentioned below.
Horses and guides for visiting them
may be obtained in Reikiavik. The
noble basaltic carerns, upon the coast
of the Bay of Stappen, may be easily
visited by water from Reikiavik.
Iceland has truly been described
"as a strange islandburst up, the
geologists say, by fire, from the bottom
of the sea ; a wild land of barrenness
and lava ; swallowed many months of
every year in black tempests, yet with
a wild gleaming beauty in summer
92
route 12.Iceland.SKArTA jokul.
time ; towering up there, Btern and

grim, in the North Ocean ; with its
Know jokuls, roaring geyser, sulphur
pools, and horrid volcanic chasms,
like the waste chaotic battle-field of
Frost and Fire ; where of all places
we least looked for literature or writ
ten memorials. On the seabord of
this wild land is a rim of grassy
country, where cattle can subsist, and
men by means of them, and of what
the sea yields ; and it seems they
were poetic men thesemen who had
deep thoughts in them, and uttered
musically their thoughts. Much would
b& lost had Iceland not been burst
up from the sea, not been discovered
by the Northmen. The old Norse
poets were many of them natives of
Iceland." Carlyle's Hero-worship,
Lect. 1.
Strictly speaking, Iceland is nothing
but a chain of immense rocks, the
highest of which range from 3000 to
6000 feet, and are capped with glaciers
and snow, beneath which burns a per
petual fire in every part of the island,
bursting forth in the most singular
and fearful phenomena.
The predominating rocks are trap
and basalt of great varieties. The
latter forms immense masses of pil
lars, similar to those of the Giant's
Causeway in Ireland. There are
several formations of lava, and some
of the streams are of great extent.
* 1 Of all countries in Europe, Iceland
is the one which has been the most
minutely mapped, not even excepting
the ordnance survey of Ireland. The
Danish Government seem to have had
a hobby about it, and the result has
been a chart so beautifully executed,
that every little crevice, each moun
tain torrent, each flood of lava, is
laid down with an accuracy perfectly
astonishing. One huge blank, how
ever, in the south-west corner of this
map of Iceland, mars the integrity of
its almost microscopic delineations.
To every other part of the island the
engineer has succeeded in penetrating ;
Denmark.
one vast space alone of alut four

hundred square miles has defied his
investigation. Over the area occu
pied by the Skapta Jokul, amid its
mountain-cradled fields of snow and
icy ridges, no human foot has ever
wandered. Yet it is from the bosom of
this desert district that has descended
the most frightful visitation ever
known to have desolated the island.
" This event occurred in the year
1783. The preceding winter and
spring had been unusually mild.
Toward the end of May, a light
bluish fog began to float along the
confines of the untrodden tracts of
Skapta, accompanied in the beginning
of June by a great trembling of the
earth. On the 8th of that month,
immense pillars of smoke collected
over the hill country towards the
north, and coming down against the
wind in a southerly direction, enve
loped the whole district of Sida in
darkness. A whirlwind of ashes then
swept over the face of the country,
and on the 10th, innumerable firespouts were seen leaping and flaring
amid the icy hollows of the moun
tain, while the river Skapta, one of
the largest in the island, having first
rolled down to the plain a vast volume
of fetid waters mixed with sand, sud
denly disappeared.
" Two days afterwards a stream of
lava, issuing from sources to which
no one has ever been able to pene
trate, came sliding down the bed of
the dried-up river, and in a little
time, though the channel was six
hundred feet deep, and two hundred
broad,the glowing deluge overflowed
its banks, crossed the low country of
Medallund, ripping the turf up before
it like a tablecloth, and poured into a
great lake, whose affrighted waters
flew hissing and screaming into the
air at the approach of the fiery in
truder. Within a few more days the
basin of the lake itself was com
pletely filled, and having separated
into two streams, the unexhausted
Denmark.
route 12. Iceland.thingyalla.
torrent again recommenced its march ;

in one direction overflowing some an
cient lava fields, in the other, re
entering the channel of the Skapta,
and leaping down the lofty cataract of
Stapafoss. But this was not all ;
while one lava flood had chosen the
Skapta for its bed, another, descend
ing in a different direction, was work
ing like ruin within and on either
side the banks of the Hverfisfliot,
rashing into the plain, by all accounts,
with even greater fury and velocity.
Whether the two issued from the
same crater it is impossible to say, as
the sources of both were far away
within the heart of the unapproach
able desert, and even the extent of
the lava flow can only be measured
from the spot where it entered the
inhabited districts. The stream which
flowed down Skapta is calculated to
be about fifty miles in length by
twelve or fifteen at its greatest
breadth ; that which rolled down the
Hverfisfliot, at forty miles in length
by seven in breadth. Where it was
imprisoned, between the high banks
of Skapta, the lava is five or six hun
dred feet thick ; but as soon as it
spread out into the plain, its depth
never exceeded one hundred feet."
Lord Diifferin's Letters from High
Latitudes, pp. 110-112.
Of the seven volcanoes still in an
active state at times, and which in
the course of the last 100 years have
emitted 20 eruptions, that of Mount
Hecla is the most celebrated. It is
5210 feet high, and only 10 Eng. m.
distant from the S. coast. Sir Joseph
Banks and his party are recorded as
being the first persons who ever
ascended Mount Hecla ; the natives,
partly from fear and superstition,
never having made the attempt. This
was in 1 722.
The TMngvalla is about 35 miles
from rleikiavik, and can be reached on
horseback comfortably in a day. We
insert Lord Dufferin's description of
it :
93
" I was arrested in full career by

a tremendous precipice, or rather
chasm, which suddenly gaped beneath
my feet, and completely separated the
barren plateau wft had been so pain
fully traversing from a lovely, gay,
sunlit flat, ten miles broad, that lay
sunk at a level lower by a hundred
feetbetween us and the opposite
mountains.
" We had reached the famous Almanna Gja. Like a black rampart
in the distance, the corresponding
chasm of the Hrafna Gja cut across
the lower slope of the distant hills,
and between them now slept in beauty
and sunshine the broad verdant*
plain of Thingvalla.
1 1 Ages agowho shall say how long ?
some vast commotion shook the
foundations of the island, and bub
bling up from sources far away amid
the inland hills, a fiery deluge must
have rushed down between their
ridges, until, escaping from the
narrower gorges, it found space to
spread itself into one broad sheet of
molten stone over an entire district of
country, reducing its varied surface to
one vast blackened level.
" One of two things then occurred :
either the vitrified mass contracting as
it cooled, the centre area of fifty
square miles burst asunder at either
side from the adjoining plateau, and
sinking down to its present level, left
the two parallel Gjas, or chasms,
which form its lateral boundaries, to
mark the limits of the disruption ; or
else, while the pith or marrow of the
lava was still in a fluid state, its
upper surface became solid, and
formed a roof beneath which the
molten stream flowed on to lower
levels, leaving a vast cavern into
which the upper crust subsequently
plumped down.
"In the act of disruption the
sinking mass fell in, as it were, upon
itself, so that one side of the Gja
* The plain of Thtngralia is in a great
measure clothed with birch brushwood.
94
route 12. Iceland.THiNGVALLA.
slopes a good deal back as it ascends ;

the other side is perfectly perpendicu
lar, and at the spot I saw it upwards of
one hundred feet high. In the lapse
of years the bottom of the Almanna *
Gja has become gradually filled up to
an even surface, covered with the
most beautiful turf, except where a
river, leaping from the higher plateau
over the precipice, has chosen it for a
bed. You must not suppose, how
ever, that the disruption and land
slip of Thingvalla took place quite in
a spick and span manner ; in some
places the rock has split asunder
very unevenly, and the Hrafna Grja is
altogether a very untidy rent, the
sides having fallen in in many
places, and almost filled up the ravine
with ruins. On the other hand, in
the Almanna Gja, you can easily
distinguish on the one face marks
and formations exactly corresponding,
though at a different level, with
those on the face opposite, so cleanly
were they separated.
" The plain of Thingvalla is about
eight miles broad, its surface shat
tered into a network of innumerable
crevices and fissures fifty or sixty
feet deep, and each wide enough
to have swallowed the entire com
pany of Corah. At the foot of
the plain lies a vast lake, into which,
indeed, it may be said to slope, with
a gradual inclination from the north,
the imprisoned waters having burst
up through the lava strata, as it sub
sided beneath them. Gazing down
through their emerald depths, you can
still follow the pattern traced on the
surface of the bottom, by cracks and
chasms similar to those into which the
dry portion of Thingvalla has been
shivered.
"Independently of its natural
curiosities, Thingvalla was most in
teresting to me on account of the his1 Almanna may be translated main; it
means literally all men's; when applied to a
road, it would mean the road along which all
the world travel.
Denmark.
torical associations connected with it.

Here, long ago, at a period when
feudal despotism was the only govern
ment known throughout Europe, free
parliaments used to sit in peace, and
regulate the affairs of the young
Republic ; and to this hour the pre
cincts of its Commons House of Par
liament are as distinct and unchanged
as on the day when the high-hearted
fathers of the emigration first conse
crated them to the service of a free
nation. By a freak of nature, as the
subsiding plain cracked and shivered
into twenty thousand fissures, an irre
gular oval area, of about two hundred
feet by fifty, was left almost entirely
surrounded by a crevice so deep and
broad as to be utterly impassable ;
at one extremity alone a scanty
causeway connected it with the ad
joining level, and allowed of access
to its interior. It is true, just at one
point the encircling chasm grows so
narrow as to be within the possibility
of a jump ; and an ancient worthy,
named Flosi, pursued by his enemies,
did actually take it at a fly : but as
leaping an inch short would have en
tailed certain drowning in the bright
green waters that sleep forty feet
below, you can conceive there was
never much danger of this entrance
becoming a thoroughfare.
' ' This spot, then, erected by nature
almost into a fortress, the founders of
the Icelandic constitution chose for the
meetings of their Thing, * or Parlia
ment ; armed guards defended the
entrance, while the grave bonders de
liberated in security within ; to this
day, at the upper end of the place of
meeting, may be seen the three ham
mocks, where sat in state the chiefs
and judges of the land.
"But those grand old times have
long since passed away. Along the
banks of the Oxeraa no longer glisten
the tents and booths of the assembled
* From thing, to speak. "We have a ves
tige of the same word in Dingwall, a town of
Roas-aliire.
Denmark.
BOCTE 12.ICELAND.
lieges ; np longer stalwart berserks

guard the narrow entrance to the
Althing ; ravens alone sit on the
sacred Logberg ; and the floor of the
old Icelandic House of Commons is
ignominiously cropped by the sheep of
the parson.
"From the Althing we strolled
over to the Almanna Gja, visiting
the Pool of Execution on our way.
As I have already mentioned, a river
from the plateau above leaps over the
precipice into the bottom of the Gja,
and flows for a certain distance be
tween its walls. At the foot of the
fall the waters linger for a moment in
a dark, deep, brimming pool, hemmed
in by a circle of ruined rocks ; to
this pool, in ancient times, all women
convicted of capital crimes were im
mediately taken and drowned.
' ' The next morning we started for
the Geysers ; this time dividing the
baggage-train, and sending on the
cook in light marching order, with
the materials for dinner. The wea
ther still remained unclouded, and
each mile we advanced disclosed some
new wonder in the unearthly land
scape. A three hours' ride brought
us to the Kafna Gja, the eastern
boundary of Thingvalla, and, winding
up its rugged face, we took our last
look over the lovely plain beneath us,
and then manfully set forward across
the same kind of arid lava plateau
.as that which we had already traversed
before arriving at the Almanna Gja."
The hot springs are amongst the
most extraordinary that are to be
found in any part of the globe. They
are very numerous in Iceland, and of
various degrees' of temperature. The
most remarkable are called the Geyser,
which rise in a marsh of \ a mile in
circumference, situated near Skalholt,
in a deep valley, surrounded in the
distance with Mount Hecla and other
snow-capped mountains. There are
about 40 springs here, which throw
up boiling water, spray, and vapour
to a great height. Great stones, when
GEYSERS.
95
thrown into the orifice, are propelled

to an amazing height, and often re
main for some minutes within the
influence of the steam, rising and fall
ing with singular alternations. Stones
thrown into these springs have the
singular effect of acting as a stimulus
to the eruption, and causing the water
to rise from a state of inactivity.
These fountains are surrounded with
variegated and beautiful petrifactions
of white stone arising from the fall
ing spray. The natives use these hot
springs for boiling their food, manu
facturing salt by the evaporation of
sea water, and a variety of other use
ful purposes. ' ' Mutton and fish are
thoroughly boiled in 6 minutes, and
taste excellently," care being taken
to prevent the vapour entering the
pot.
"The atmosphere of Iceland also
displays its prodigies. Through the
air, which is at times filled with little
icy particles, the sun and moon ap
pear double, or assume extraordinary
forms ; the aurora borealis reflects a
thousand different colours, and every
where the magical illusion of the
mirage creates phantom scenes."
We insert some extracts from a
paper read before the British Associa
tion by Robert Allan, Esq., of Edin
burgh, on the subject of the Geysers.
" The Geysers of Iceland, like most
volcanic phenomena in other regions,
are changeable in their action, and
from time'to time alter in their cha
racter and appearance. Some of them,
it is a well-ascertained fact, are
steadily increasing in activity and in
tensity, while others are as distinctly
growing weaker. Those of Hankedalr,
towards the south-western extremity
of the island, are the hot springs best
known to us ; and although there can
be little question that they fall under
the category of diminishing Geysers,
their action is still powerful, and their
structure most remarkable. These
Geysers, according to well-authenti
cated Icelandic history, came into
route 12.Iceland.geysebs.
existence in the 15th century
namely, in the year 1446. "What
phenomena attended their eruption at
that period we are not informed, but
their action is understood among scien
tific men in Iceland to have been then
and long after much more powerful
than it now is ; nor is the statement
made by Olavsen and Paulson, that
the eruption of the great Geyser in
the year 1772 rose to the height of
360 feet, however incredible in our
eyes, at all disbelieved by well-in
formed men in that country. It is
situated at the foot of Langarfiall, a
crag about 300 feet high, upon rather
elevated flat ground, commanding a
wide open view over a fine verdant
plain to the east and south, Blafell
and other mountains partly capped
with snow rising to the north with
great magnificence. Even the white
point of Hecla may be distinguished
in this locality some 30 miles distant.
This fjeld slopes to the south, and also
falls away towards the river onthe east,
so that the great Geyser is situated
not only towards the northern, but also
on the higher portion of the ground.
The Strokr is distant about 120 yards
southward of the Geyser, and the little
Strokr perhaps 100 yards still farther
south and in nearly a direct line.
These are the three principal springs
at present erupting, and although
there are from forty to fifty other
apertures in the vicinity, and particu
larly towards the lower or southern
extremity of the field, some of which
emit water with violent ebullition and
much noise, yet to these three alone
can the title of either Geyser or
Strokr be properly applied the
former, that is the Geyser, meaning
'Agitator,' and the latter or Strokr,
being the common Icelandic name for
churn. The section of the Geyser
may be compared to a funnel, its
pipe or orifice resembling the stalk,
and its cup or basin the head of that
utensil. The cup is nearly round, its
diameters taken in opposite directions
Denmark.
being 72 ft. G in. and 68 ft. 1 in. ; while

its depth, measuring perpendicularly
from a line drawn across its margin,
appeared to be nearly four feet. The
pipe we ascertained to be 83 ft. 2 in.
in depth, and rather more than ten feet
.in diameter. Under ordinary circum
stances, when the Geyser is quiescent,
this cup and pipe are filled to the brim
with limpid hot water, which ever and
anon, but at totally irregular periods,
boils up in the centre, and then the
water runs over, principally at the
points where the lip is a few inches
lower than elsewhere in the circle.
This is a mere abortive attempt : when,
however, an eruption takes place,
which almost invariably is preceded by
a premonitory subterranean rumbling
noise, resembling the booming of a
distant cannon, and by a trembling
of the earth under foot, which affects
every bone of the body, these ebulli
tions rise higher, first in a mass of
two or three feet, which opens in the
centre, and surges outwards like a
wave, and then the water is suddenly
ejected into the air, with the .velocity
and din of some hundred sky-rockets,
the entire mound being immediately
overflowed. After an eruption, the
water recedes in the pipe, and not
only is the cup left entirely dry, but
eight or ten feet of the pipe is like
wise emptied. The inside of the pipe
appears perfectly smooth, and is nearly
circular, but the cup, or upper portion
of the funnel, as well as the entire
mound outside of it, are both covered
with siliceous incrustations, depo
sited by the water, and doubtless still
more by the volumes of steam or spray
arising from it.
' ' Both of the Strokrs differ from the
Geyser in being mere round holes or
pipes, neither funnel-shaped at their
orifices nor raised above the surface
of the ground. They likewise differ
from it in the fact that they afford
no premonitory symptom of a coming
eruptionno previous warning, but
all at once dart into the atmosphere
Denmark.
route 12. Iceland. geysers.
with extreme violence. The depth of

the Strokr approximates to that of the
Great Geyser being, according to our measurement, 87J feet, but the
diameter of its pipe is rather under
9 feet. Shortly after our arrival, the
guides cut about a barrowful of turf,
which they threw into this Strokr.
This at first apparently stopped the
violent ebullition which can be seen
always going forward in this remark
able spring at the depth of 10 or 12
feet, but in the course of ten minutes
it began to roar, and then we had an
instantaneous and truly magnificent
eruption. The water did not appear
in a column as most fountains do, but
in a continued intermittent series of
many jets all at one moment, having
different forces, and unitedly present
ing one grand pyramidal jet-d'eau of
the most symmetrical and graceful
description. Calculating from a little
distance, in proportion to the figures
standing by it, we were satisfied that
some of ' the principal ejections on
this occasionand there were fully
thirty of them, lasting in all about ten
minutesmust have been from 90 to
100 feet in height, and, darkened as
the water naturallyappeared from the
turf thrown into it, the effect was ex
ceedingly striking.
' ' The Little Strokr is very violent
and very noisy. Its eruptions are
feathery and extremely beautiful,
although it rarely rises above 30 feet,
and, from the less regular form of its
orifice, is not so symmetrical as its
larger namesake. The action of these
hot springs during eruption is not
that of a mass of water driven up in
column, as the description and draw
ings of most previous visitors would
lead one to expect. The old print,
published by Sir John Stanley so far
back as 1789, comes nearer what we
witnessed than anything bearing more
recent date. Instead of a column, it
is rather that of a multitude of jets
possessing different intensities, all
working simultaneously, so that,
97
whilst a few of them rise per

pendicularly and attain the highest
elevation, others having less power
apparently stop short, and others
again, being slightly inclined, are
thrown out somewhat obliquelyall
this, be it remembered, at one and
the same moment, the jets inter
mitting, altering, and repeating their
action with the utmost rapidity, and
affording to an onlooker, on a quiet
day, one of the most sublime and
magnificent objects in nature. No
doubt the ejection from the orifice of
the pipe takes place in a columnar
mass. This we distinctly observed it
did at the Great Geyser, to the height
of 10 to 15 feet above the rim of the
cup ; but being accompanied, as these
eruptions of boilingwatematurally are,
by vast volumes of steam, and withal so
rapidly changeful in their movements,
it is not easy to ascertain exactly what
goes on near the orifice at the moment
of propulsion. But under no circum
stance did this column, a3 it issued
10 feet in diameter from the mouth of
the pipe, remain long in that form. It
surged outwards, and was immediately
forced up in jets, which, rising
abruptly above the volumes of steam,
broke in the most graceful feathery
masses in every direction. Stones
thrown in, and particularly the masses
of turf with which we fed the Strokr,
were driven out to the highest extremity
of these jets, some of them falling out
wards, and others dropping into the
vortex, and being a second or a
' third time driven into the atmo
sphere.
"The French, who watched them
for six days successively, state that at
least the Great Geyser and the Strokr
have some connection, and that the
action of the one depends upon the
movements of the other. The tem
perature of the Great Geyser at the
bottom was ascertained by Bunsen to
be 260 deg. of Fahrenheit, lessening
as it ascends towards the surface, and
is stated by the French as 270 deg.
v
98
IIOUTE 12.
ICELAND.
near the bottom, 219 half way up, and

212 at the surface, and that of the
Strokr at about 30 feet deep they
found to be 230 deg. The contents
of its waters are principally silica,
with some soda, but no sulphur, al
though the vapour at the moment of
emission has a slightly-sulphurous
odour. We used it for all culinary
purposes, boiling our lamb, dissolving
our portable soup, infusing our tea,
concocting our whisky toddy, all, of
course, without fire, and when cooled
it is excellent drinking water. I close
these remarks by noticing a few of
the recent changes which are observ
able in this locality. Sir John Stan
ley in 1789 found the pipe of the
Geyser 61 feet deep and 8J in diame
ter. The iunnel, or basin, as he
terms it, is stated at that period to
have been 8 feet in depth and 60 feet
in diameter. 'Both of these,' he
says, ' have been evidently formed by
gradual deposition from the water, and
a mound round them has in like
manner been formed 30 feet high, and
extending in various directions to dis
tances of 80, 100, or 120 feet.' The
great eruptions, which by theodolite
he ascertained to rise 96 feet, took
place every two hours, and lasted 15
to 20 minutes. The Strokr he states
to be 6 feet 10 inches in diameter,
and its eruption to be much more
columnar than that of the Geyser,
and rising to the height of 132 feet.
In 1810 Sir George Mackenzie found
the pipe 60 feet deep and 10 in dia
meter, and its basin only 3 feet deep,
and from 46 to 58 feet across.the
configuration of the latter in his time
not being round, but indented, as it
were, at one side. The Geyser erup
tion he estimated as rising to 90 feet,
and the periods of its action were
more frequent than now. The Strokr,
Sir George says, played magnificently
to the height of 70 feet for half an
hour at a time. Henderson, in 1815,
who paid the locality two visits, esti
mated the Geyser eruption at 150 feet,
GEYSEES.
Denmark.
and that of the Strokr as even higher

than 200 feet. The French in 1836
made the depth. of the Geyser 75^
feet, the breadth of the basin 524,
the height of its eruptions 105, and
the diameter of the pipe 16 feet.
The Strokr they noticed to rise to
the height of 92 feet, and the
diameter of its pipe they give at
8 feet, and its depth at 65 feet.
Professor Bunsen, in 1846, who
spent 11 days upon the locaHty,
found the Geyser about 66 feet deep,
and estimated its eruption at 43 up
to 57 metres ; that is, 140 up to 177
feet. The Strokr, he says, is 43
feet deep, and only 7 in diameter,
and he estimated its eruption at 160
feet. Comparing these descriptions
and measurements with each other
and with our own, it is pretty evi
dent, that whether the intensity of
the eruptions of these Geysers be
greater or less now than they have
been during the past 70 years, they
assuredly have fallen off exceedingly,
both in their frequency and in their
duration. No doubt the action is
more powerful at one time than ano
ther, or at one season than another ;
indeed it is believed to be more so in
damp and wet weather than during
dry seasons. The supply of water to
the springs must vary, and the eva
poration at the surface, dependent on
the currents of air, may also have its
effect upon their action. Still, that
the quantity of water emitted from
them, on the whole, is much less
than it once was, there can be no
question. If the diameter of the
pipe really alters, the diminished ac
tion is readily accounted for. But of
any such alteration I am extremely
sceptical ; for, as the edge or rim of the
pipe widens out somewhat gradually
into the funnel, it is most probable
that measurements have in some in
stances been taken higher up than the
perpendicular portion of the pipe,
the latter being a point which in fact
cannot be reached byrfhe hand. Sir
Denmark.
route 12.Iceland. climate, etc.
Join Stanley found these great erup

tions of the Geysers take place every
two hours. Henderson, in 1815, says
that the Geyser erupted in the most
imposing manner every six hours.
We waited 27 hours before anything
of the kind occurred ; and the erup
tions of the Strokr, which Sir George
Mackenzie gazed upon for a half-hour
at a time, never now last above eight
or ten minutes. Another obvious
change has been going forward, and
is still progressing, in the mound of
the Geyser, arising from the rapid
deposit of siliceous matter upon its
sides. The edge of this mound forms
the rim of the circular cup, which
Sir John Stanley and Sir George
Mackenzie both describe at about
60 feet across. This has now ex
tended, still, however, in a nearly
circular form, to no less than 68 by
72, and the size and bulk of the
mound must have correspondingly in
creased. On the whole such decided
changes upon the aspect of these
Hankedalr Geysers,' leave little doubt
that their action is becoming rapidly
weaker, and that the time may not
be far distant when their forces, like ,
those of Hecla, in the vicinity, will
become nearly quiescent. There are
other similar hot springs in the
island, especially to the south, which
are known, on the contrary, to be
steadily increasing."
The climate of Iceland is very un
certain, and cultivation of the land
most precarious. "When the huge
mountains of floating ice chance to
become fixed in the northern parts of
the island, all hope of cultivation
ceases for a year or two, a frightful
degree of cold diffuses itself through
the whole island, the winds bring
with them complete columns of icy
particles, vegetation is entirely de
stroyed, and famine and despair
overwhelm the inhabitants.
The rearing of cattle is a great ob
ject of industry.with the people. But
the chief support of all classes here
00
arises from the cod-fisheries around

the island. The rivers, also, abound
with salmon and trout. Wild-fowl,
including the swan and eider-duck,
are found upon the coast and about
the lakes in immense numbers, and
form a most important addition to the
food and trade of the people. Guns
are not allowed to be fired near the
islands round the coast during the
breeding season of the eider-ducks.
In the interior of Iceland wild rein
deer are very numerous upon the
mountains, and ptarmigan are met
with in immense numbers.
There are no trees of any magnitude
in Iceland, and the people are driven
to all sorts of expedients for fuel.
A singular feature here is the vast
quantities of drift-wood which are
annually thrown upon parts of the
coast ; some is brought even from the
Mississippi by the gulf stream. Doubt
less it was the observation of these
quantities of drift-wood which led the
inhabitants to the discovery of Ame
rica.
Iceland appears to have been visited
by Irish prior to its discovery by Gardar, a Dane, about the year 860. It
was colonised by Ingolf, a Norwegian,
in 874. Considerable numbers of
Norwegians subsequently settled here,
and it became an independent repub
lic. Christianity finally became the
religion of the country, a. d. 1000.
In 1264 Iceland was annexed to the
Norwegian Crown; and, upon the
union of Norway with Denmark, be
came, and has ever since remained,
subject to that country.
The early history of Iceland abounds
with interest. It became the chosen
retreat of religion and learning during
the dark ages which succeeded the fall
of the Roman empire, and was at that
time perhaps the most enlightened
country existing. But one of the
greatest events connected with this
wonderful island is that of the eastern
coast of North America having been
discovered and colonised by Icelanders
F 2
100 ROUTE 13.
COPENHAGEN, BY TONNING AND KIEL. Deimarl:
more than 500 years before the re

puted discovery by Columbus in 1492.
The Icelandic Sagas prove that the
American coast, as far S. as Long
Island, was discovered in 986, and
the first settlement made in Massa
chusetts in 994. Occasional inter
course appears to have been kept up
with America down to the 1 4th cen
tury, when it was discontinued. It
is upon record that Columbus visited
Iceland in 1477, and it is probable
that he then obtained all the informa
tion which the carefully-preserved
Sagas and other documents contained
as to America. See "Discovery of
America by the Northmen in the 10th
century," by N. L. Beamish, 1841.
Also the "Letters of Columbus,"
edited by Major, and published by
the Hakluyt Society, 1847. Also the
" Antiquitates Americanae," by C.
Rafn, Copenhagen ; in Danish, Ice
landic, and Latin. And the various
publications of the Societe des Antiquaires da Nord, at Copenhagen.
The general diffusion of knowledge
which took place in Iceland during
the period of its prosperity, is still
continued in a degree unknown in
any other country. It often happens
that travellers may find their guide
address them with fluency and ele
gance in Latin. During the long
winter nights the reading of the
ancient Sagas and the classical writ
ings of antiquity is a favourite occu
pation with families, each taking it
by turns to read while the others
work.
The ancient Scandinavian language
still remains that of Iceland, but
Danish is now very generally under
stood throughout the country.
The Ic3landers are a religious peo
ple ; and Dr. Holland mentions that
one of the stated nightly occupations
of the father of a family is the in
struction of his children in knowledge,
religion, and virtue.
The people generally are most primi
tive and independent in their m n-
ners, but they are honest, hospitable,

intelligent, and desirous to oblige.
The costume of the women is very
picturesque. They wear high white
caps, like the women in Normandy.
Perhaps the Normandy women have
retained the custom handed down to
them by their Northmen ancestors.
A list of 120 works upon Iceland
will be found in Von Troll's Letters
on Iceland, translated by Costa, Lon
don, 1783, by which it appears that,
in 1772, Sir Joseph Banks made a
considerable Icelandic collection, in
cluding a number of manuscripts,
which he presented to the British
Museum.
ROUTE 13.
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY TOKNINO
AND KIEL.
Distance about 550 Eng. miles. A
steamer will leave London for Tonning every ten days during the pre
sent summer (1858), on the 10th,
20th, and 30th of every month, load
ing off Horselydown ; returning from
Tonning on the 5th, 15th, and 25th.
Fare, chief cabin, 11 Agent to the
Company in London, Messrs. Hoff
man and Co. , Railway Place ; in
Tonning, Mr. J. Whistler.
TSnning. Inn : Lexow's Hotel, at
the mouth of the river Eider on the
North Sea. There is nothing of in
terest in the town itself. The Eider
is navigable as far as Rendsborg for
ships not drawing more than 10 feet
of water. A canal of about 20 Eng.
miles connects Rendsborg with the
Baltic. The canal is supplied with
water from the Flcmhuder Lake,
which is not more than 28 feet above
the level of the sea. The whole dis
tance from the North Sea to the
Baltic is about 88 m. A branch of
the Sleswig Railway now connects
Tonning with the line to Flensborg
on Route 8 : and also with Rends
borg and Kiel on Route 1. Trains
Denmark, route 13. Copenhagen, by tonning and kiel. 101

leave Tonning twice a day. Fare to
Flensborg, first class, 3 rigsbank dol
lars 24 skillings. To Rendsborg, 3 rb.
d. 4 sk. Time to Rendsborg about 3
hours. The stations are
Harbleh.
Fredericstadt, (Windahl's Hotel,)
on the Eider. The small river Treene
flows into the Eider here.
Ilusum.
Orsted. The lines separate here,
one going north to Flensborg (Route
8). One turns southwards through
Holm, Sleswig, Ovislag, to
Rendsborg. (See Route 8.)
From Rendsborg the Holstein Rail
way is taken through Bockelholm,
Nortorf, to Neumunster on the main

line from Altona to Kiel, whence
Route 1 may be followed to Copen
hagen.
A steamer will also leave Grimsby
for Tonning on the 10th, 20th, and
30th of every month, returning on
the 6th, 10th, and 26th. Further
particulars may be obtained from
Messrs. W. Eagle, Bolt and Co.,
Grimsby.
There is also occasionally a steamer
from South A Uoa to Tonning. F. om
Bremen to Tonning on the 1st of
every month, and every succeeding
fifth day : returning on the 4th and
every fifth day following.
NORWAY.
INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION.
1. Routes from England to Norway.2. Money, Measures, Weights.
3. Passports.4. Modes of Travelling, Inns, Steamers, Boats, Carrioles,
Four-wheeled Carriages. 5. Requisites for Travelling, Carrioles, &c.
6. Posting Regulations, Skydts Law, Sending Forbud, Table of Payments
for Horses.7. Danish and Norwegian Alphabet, Vocabulary, &c.
8. Scenery and Sketching. 9. Angling. 10. Shooting. 11. Succinct
Account of Norway.12. Historical Notice. 13. Government.14. The
People.15. Productive Industry.16. Commerce.17. Literature, <Scc.
ROUTES.
ROUTE
PAGE ROUTE
PAGE
20. London to Christiania
. 157 27. Christiania to Trondhjem
21. Christiania to Bergen over
over Ringeriget to Lille
Ringeriget and the Fille
hammer
.
.
. 253
Fjeld .
.
.
.106 28. Christiania to Trondhjem
22. Bergen to Christiania by
over Hurdalen on the
Leirdalsbren, through HalWestern side of the Miosen
lingdal and Hemsedal . 189
Lake .
.
.
.253
23. ChristianiatoBergen through
29. Christiania to Trondhjem
Drammen, Kongsberg, over
over Hedemarken on the
Tellemarken, and the
Eastern side of the Miosen
Hardanger .
.
.192
Lake .... 254
21. Christiania to Hammerfest
30. Christiania to Molde, Aaleand the North Cape round
sund, and Christiansund,
the coast by land .
. 201
over the Miosen Lake, and
25. Christiania by steamboat
through Gudbrandsdalen
round the coast to Trondand Romsdalen
.
. 255
hjem, Hammerfest, and
Vadsii in East Finmark . 231
over Osterdalen, up the
26. Christiania to Trondhjem by
Valley of the Glommen,
rail to Eidsvold, thence by
and through Rbraas
. 258
steamer to Lillehammer,
through Gudbrandsdal,
through Kongsvinger, and
and over the Dovre
up the Valley of the Glom
Fjeld .
.
.236
men
.
.
.
.261
Norway.
MONET.
MEASURES.WEIGHTS.
33. Trondhjem to Stockholm,

through Vcerdal and Sundsrail
.
.
.
.262
34. Alten to Tomea (at the
head of the Gulf of Bothnia), across the mountains 264
35. Christiania to Stockholm,
through Kongsvinger, Carlstad, and by the N. of the
Malar Lake .
.
.273
36. Christiania to Stockholm,
by Frederikshald and the

S. of the Wenern Lake .
37. Christiania to Helsingborg,
through Gottenburg
.
38. Leirdalsoren (in Rt*. 21) to
Komsdalen (in lite. 30)
over the Sogne Fjeld and
Haalangen Fjeld .
.
39. Christiania to Hamburg, in
Winter, by Jutland, Sleswig, and Holstein .
.
103
274
278
278
281
1. ROUTES FROM ENGLAND TO NORWAY.

The access to Norway is now as easy as to any other part of the Continent.
Those who dislike the sea, by going to Hamburg and Kiel vid Calais or
Ostend, Cologne, and Hanover, can limit the actual sea-voyage to a very few
hours ; but the quickest and cheapest route is by steamer from Hull to
Christiania. A steamer leaves Hull every other Friday, and arrives at
Christiania on the following Monday or Tuesday, after touching at Christiansand on the Sunday. There is likewise a weekly steamer to Christiania from
Copenhagen as well as from Kiel, the former touching at Gottenburg, the
second at Korsor in the Great Belt, and at Frederikshavn.
All these steamers touch at the intermediate ports in the Christiania Fjord,
with the exception of the Hull boat, which only touches at Christiansand. The
Hamburg and Amsterdam boats also touch there, and, weather permitting,
meet the steamers going westwards round the coast to Bergen, Trondhjem, and
Hammerfest, &c.
There is also weekly communication by steamer between Hamburg, Chris
tiansand, Bergen, and Trondhjem.
A steamer will also run from Hull to Bergen every three weeks during this
summer (1858) commencing on Friday, June 18th, and reaching Bergen on the
Monday. Fares, 3i. 3s. Agents, Messrs. Dunkerly, Hull.
2. MONET. MEASURES. WEIGHTS.
Accounts are kept in specie Dollars, Marks or Orts, and Skillings.
24 Skillings make
1 Mark, or Ort.
5 Marks
1 Specie Dollar.
There are no gold coins in Norway. The current money is of paper, silver,
and copper. The paper is issued by the National Bank, and may be taken
with perfect security. It passes current for its full value throughout the
country. The notes are as follows :For 1 specie dollar, on white paper ;
5, blue ; 10, yellow ; 50, green ; and red, 100.
The silver comprises pieces of 1 specie dollar, 4 do. ; 1 mark ; 4 do. or 12
]04
MOSEY.
MEASURES.
WEIGHTS.
Norway.
skillings ; and J do. or 6 sk. Most of these are new and handsome coins ; in
addition to these there is abundance of small debased Danish coin still in circu
lation, which was issued during the war from 1808 to 1814, and which now
passes current at a discount, viz. : 4 skilling pieces at 3 skillings, and the 8
skillings at 6. The copper money comprises pieces of 2, 1, and 4 sks. All
these Danish coins are to be called in, and Norwegian of the same value to be
issued. In the South of Norway the piece of 24 sks. is called a Mark, but in
the W. and N. an Ort.
The exchange is regulated by the Hamburg quotations. Of late years it has
ranged from 4 ds. 40 sks. to 4 ds. 60 sks. for the British pound sterling. The
specie dollar, therefore, for common purposes, may be taken at is. 6d. ; in
cluding bankers' commission on bills, the latter must always be the price cal
culated upon. The English value of the Norwegian money, therefore, will
stand thus :
s. d.
1 Skilling, about
o 04
1 Mark, or Ort, about
0 10!i
1 Specie dollar
4 6
In speaking of dollars, they are called " species," the dollars being dropped.
One of the most important requisites to attend to in Norway, when not in a
town, is to be amply provided with small money ; for change even for a piece
of a few skillings is most difficult to obtain, and if travellers are not prepared
with the exact amount they have to pay for horses, &c. , they must usually
either give more than is due, or be involved in much delay and annoyance.
Change may generally be obtained at the post-offices in the large towns- -the
banks, however, are the best places, but they are only open for about an hour
every morning. The best money to take is the 5 and 1 dollar notes, and coin,
from pieces of 1 mark down to those of 2 sks.
The Danish paper and silver dollars pass current in Christiania (but not in
the interior) for their full value ; the same description of Norwegian money
will not be taken in Sweden or Denmark, except at a loss of 3 or 4 sks. each
sp. dollar. Swedish paper will not be taken in Norway.
As to the best mode of obtaining money from England, see General Intro
duction, under head 5, Money.
Measures. 12 inches make 1 foot, and 2 feet 1 ell. The Norsk foot
is equal to 1.029 English. The Norsk mile is 12,352 Eng. yards, or 7 Eng.
miles and 32 yards. In superficial measure, by the term ' ' a tonde of hard
corn," is meant as much land as can be sown with 1 barrel or tonde of rye,
1 of barley, and 2 of oats. The land measure is the "Tiindeland," which is
100 square Norwegian ells ; this comes near to an English acre. The fourth
part of a Tondeland, or 50 square ells, is called a "Maal Jord." 16 Nor
wegian square feet will make as nearly as possible 17 English square feet.
Norway.
PASSPORTS.
MODES OF TRAVELLING
105
WeigJds. -2 Lods make

1 Unze.
8 Unzes
1 Mark.
2 Marks.
1 Skaalpund. *.
100 Skaalpunds
1 Centner.
J2 Skaalpunds
1 Bismerpund.
3 Bismerpunds
1 Vog.
16 Skaalpunds
1 Lispund.
20 Lispunds
1 Skippund.
In the S. of Norway the Skippund, Lispund, Bismerpund, and Skaalpund
are used. In the W. and N. the Vog, Bismerpund, and Skaalpund.
3. PASSPORTS.
Few countries cause travellers less inconvenience on account of passports,
than Norway. Any passport, provided it bears the
of a Norwegian and
Swedish Minister, Consul, or Vice-Consul is sufficient. Even this formality is
not strictly enforced. Onee in the country passports are rarely called for, and
then only in the two or three large towns ; but on leaving the country travellers
must have a passport properly visi, as a berth in a steamer going foreiga can
not be taken without one. The people at the hotels in Christiania will see to
this, if due notice be given, and proper time allowed.
Any one visiting Norway, and intending to return through any part of the
Continent to England, should be provided with a Foreign Office passport,
by the Norwegian and Swedish Minister, or Consul. If proceeding, however,
direct to Norway, rid Hull, and intending to return by the same route, &
simple Consul's passport is sufficient.
See also General Preliminary Information, under head of ' ' Passports and
List of Ambassadors," &c.
4. MODES OP TRAVELLING. INKS, STEAMERS, BOATS, CARRIOLES, FOURWHEELED CARRIAGES.
All travellers in Norway must be prepared for some inconvenience and
discomfort, even on the main roads, and for a great amount of dirt, and
sometimes even of hunger, unless provided with their own provisions, on the
bye-roads in the remote parts of Norway.
Modes of Travelling.The modes of travelling in Norway have greatly im
proved of late years, and on some of the principal inland lakes steamers
regularly ply, viz., on the Miiisen Lake, on the Olern Lake, on the Randsfjord,
on the Nord-soe, and on the Bandalsvand.
On the Midsen at the northern terminus of the railway from Christiania to
* N.B.-100 Skaalpuuds Norsk arc equal to about HO lbs. Eng. avoirdupois, or 10 per
cei.t. more.
1 3
10 j
MODES OF TRAVELLING.IN"NS.
Norway.
Eidsvold, there are no less than four steamers, which run every week -day to
Lillehammer, at the northern extremity of the lake, touching at some of the
principal places en route, so that it is possible to reach Gudbrandsdal, a distance
of 133 English miles from Christiania, within the day, at an expense, in
cluding the railway and steamer fares (1st class), of 2 sp. d., about lis.
English.
Norway is capital ground for a pedestrian tour. The usual mode of travers
ing the land routes is, however, by posting, which is admirably arranged to suit
the wants and convenience of the people. Calculating the dollar at is. 6d.
Eng. , the average cost of posting per English mile for each horse will be about
3d. from "Fast stations,'' and 2d. when not from a "Fast station." Through
out the country there are station-houses erected at certain distances upon the
roads, and the distance between each forms a stage.
It is only at the Fast stations that regular post horses are kept, and this
arrangement, which is recent, is now very generally introduced on the main
roads. Where it is not the case the farmers (bonder) in the district are
obliged by law to provide horses in turn ; and as these have frequently to be
brought from a distance, it is usual, in order to avoid detention, to send a
' ' Forbud " (avant courier) beforehand, who carries with him any luggage the
traveller may not have room for. The " forbud-seddel" or note may be sent
by post.
The manner of sending Forbud will be fully explained hereafter. It con
sists in forwarding a notice to each station where horses will be wanted, stating
the day and hour of the traveller's intended arrival. In a few places where
bridges have been erected a toll is payable until the expense' has been repaid.
Turnpikes there are none. The roads are all kept in repair by the adjoining
landowners.
Inns.In Christiania there are now several hotels. The Victoria and the
Hotel du Nord are considered the best : the first is tolerable, but all are dear
and very inferior to the continental inns generally. In Trondhjem there is
also tolerable accommodation at the Hotel d'Angleterre, and the Hotel
Bellevue. The Station-houses are the inns of the country. The proprietors
are small farmers, or small country traders (Landhandlers) : they are bound to
find travellers with beds and food at prices fixed by a tariff in each district,
and which is upon the most moderate scale. On the main roads, if a proper
selection be made, it is generally possible to get into good quarters, with clean
beds, every night ; and a tolerably good and warm meal may be obtained, if
ordered beforehand by the Forbud : but when travellers deviate from the main
roads, this is anything but the case, and it is prudent to take some portable
provisions, such as biscuits, portable soup, and perhaps an uncooked ham, for
such emergencies. Good coffee, milk, cream, and black rye bread, and in the
season strawberries (Iordbser) and molteberries (moltebajr) may be generally
obtained everywhere.
Norway.
STEAMERS. BOATS.
As the stations, even on the main roads, are frequently changed, a small
guide-book (Lomme-Reiseroute) is now published in Christiania, every spring,
which points out the several changes wliich may have taken place, and also
the best night quarters along the different routes. It will be prudent for all
travellers to buy this book, and on making out their intended route, to com
pare this Hand-book with it, and rectify all changes marked therein. It is
very easily understood. It also gives the latest information with respect to
the departure and arrivals of the several steamers.
Steamers. As a general rule berths should be secured as soon as possible,
and passports must be deposited at the office on doing so. The sea-going
steamers are described above, and the period of their departure and arrival
will be explained hereafter. Besides these, there are now numerous steamers
plying on the inland lakes, as well as a weekly steamer along the coast from
Christiania to Christiansand, Bergen, Trondhjem, Tromsoe, and Hammerfest,
touching at all the intermediate stations. Another steamer runs from Ham
merfest to Wardoe and Vadsoe at the entrance of the White Sea every fort
night, thus completely encircling Norway by steam communication.
From Christiania to Christiansand there are steamers three times a week,
and from Christiania to the different towns and ports in the Christiania Fjord
two, and sometimes three steamers daily.
The fares on board all these vessels are low ; the cuisine and wine good, and
very reasonable. The coasting steamers are generally much crowded during
the summer. They are small, as the shallowness of the water in the passages
they have to navigate between the islands will not allow of vessels of a larger
draught ; but they all take carriages, the freight of which is, for 4 wheels
equal to one and a half .ch. cabin fare ; for 2 wheels half that sum. The
fares are charged, Chief Cabin, 15 sk. (about Id. English) per Norsk sea
mile, 4 English, with a deduction of 12 sk. for every 20 sea m. ; and also of
25 per cent, upon the total amount of the fare where two or more persons are
travelling together ; but the latter deduction is confined to husbands and wives,
parents and children. Fore cabin, 10 sk. per Norsk sea- in., and no deduction
allowed.
As the days become shorter towards the end of the season, alterations are
obliged to be made in the times of arrival and departure of some of the
steamers. As a general rule, therefore, before starting to join a steamboat in
Norway, and particularly on the West Coast, care should be taken to inquire
up to what time the printed lists issued by the Government may be relied upon.
They cease running in the winter.
Boats.Formerly the only means of travelling along the West and Northern
Coast was in open boats, and though steamers have in a great measure super
seded this mode of travelling, regular stations, under the management of
regular station-masters (Skydskaffer) still exist, where boats may be hired at
fixed rates, in which carrioles and other light vehicles may be easily trans
108
CARRIOLES.
CARRIAGES.
Norway.
ported. The charges are regulated by a tariff (see page 112). The whole of the
West of Norway is so deeply indented by fjords of vast extent, that the water
stages requisite to connect the road along it, Route 24, are very numerous ;
and it is the same with respect to the roads from Christiania to Bergen, Aalesund, Molde, &c. The boatmen are very careful, obliging, and trustworthy.
Carrioles are the most convenient carriages for travelling in Norway, and
gentlemen will do well noi to encumber themselves with any other. It is the
carriage of the country, and admirably adapted to it from its lightness and
simplicity of construction. The carriole somewhat resembles the Italian
carricola. It is usually built without springs. The shafts are long and elastic,
the ends are fixed to the axletree, and the seat (which will only hold one per
son) is placed well forward, and, by cross pieces, rests upon the shafts, the
elasticity of which prevents the occupant being jolted, except when the roads
are very bad. The legs are brought nearly to a horizontal position, so that in
descending the steepest hill there iB no inconvenience, nor the possibility of
being thrown out, in the event of the horse falling. A board is fixed upon the
axletree to carry a trunk, &c, and there the man to whom the horse belongs
seats himself. The trunk should be fitted with long straps running through
eyes to attach it to the board. Another mode of carrying the trunk, if it is
not too deep, is to sling it underneath this board. This will save it from the
jolting, but it can only be done with a small box. The harness is of the most
simple construction, and so contrived as to fit any of the small horses which
are met with. These horses are almost invariably so docile that a child may
drive them with perfect safety, if they be not overladen. They are matchless
for their sureness of foot, in proof of which a broken knee is very rarely
seen. In summer their only food is grass, but their powers of endurance are
very great. The cost of a new carriole, without springs, is about 8/. ; and
with them, 91. A set of new harness costs about 45s. more. At times
carrioles and harness may be met with second-hand, and of course cheaper,
but great caution should be used to see that they are not patched up for sale.
The best will always be found the cheapest in the end. A long journey made
rapidly in a carriole without springs will be found very fatiguing. Suggestions
will be given under the head of "Requisites for Travelling," as to fitting up a
carriole. Ladies accustomed to driving would do well to adopt the carriole,
and avoid the delay and incumbrance attendant on travelling in any other
vehicle, but they should take a spring carriole, though in case of breaking one
it is difficult to get it mended in the country. A spring carriole is no doubt a
great saving of fatigue, but they are not constructed for heavy people, or for
rough roads.
Four-wheeled Carriages.Very light four-wheeled carriages may now be
used safely on all the main roads of Norway, but on these only, and it is only
within the last few years that it has become prudent to use these. No one can
fail to observe the good engineering and striking proofs of the progress that
Norway.
requisites yon travelling.
J 09
has teen made lately in improving the roads. Hollows have heen filled up,
hills cut down, and roads scarped out of the face of the rock, where formerly
nothing much better than horse-tracks existed. The road along the valley of
the Driva from Kongsvold to Rise (Route 26) is a magnificent specimen of
Norwegian engineering ; and other improvements are still in progress all
through the country, the Government having proposed the application of no
less than 225,000 dollars annually to that purpose.
The finest scenery is in the West, which is the most mountainous.
There, also, the horses, which in other parts are small, degenerate into mere
ponies, which are unaccustomed to draw any very heavy carriage, and have
neither the power nor habit of holding it back in descending steep hills. For
these reasons it may be said that the only danger of travelling in Norway, is
that of using or loading a carriage beyond the strength of the horses, than
which nothing can be more dangerous or more cruel. It is also a most
hazardous and inconvenient affair to get a heavy carriage across any of the
water stations. See Christiania, as to the cost or hire of such a phaeton as
that we have described. Particular attention should be paid as to the mode
of fitting up these carriages.
5. REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING. CARRIOLES.
Small Moneyprovide an ample supply as before recommended. Maps.
By far the best is "Professor P. A. Munch's," which can be obtained at
Christiania or Trondhjem. It is very minute and accurate, and for pedestrians
crossing mountains, &c. , is the only one to be trusted ; price for the South of Nor
way, 5 sp. d. "Waligorski's and Wergeland's, published at Christiania in 1S46,
is cheaper, but is little better than a postal chart, giving none of the varied
features of the country. Single houses, glaciers, churches, and mountains
especially are strongly marked in Professor Munch's Map. Roosen's Map, pub
lished in Christiania, in 1848, in two sheets, is also a good one. Price about 5 sp. d.
I/omme-Iteiseroute (Pocket Road-Book). It is very small, is published by the
Government annually, may be had in all the towns, costs 18 sks. , and should
it be intended to send a Forbud, is almost a necessary, in case of any altera
tion being made in the stations or distances upon the principal roads, most of
which it contains ; ask for the last edition. Forbud papers. Printed forms
in blank may be purchased in all the towns, and a supply should be taken.
Writing materials should not be forgotten, and a pocket compass.
Carrioles are so constructed that in the body there is only room beneath the
seat for a winch, hammer, coil of rope, some string, a gimblet, and a few
straps ; all of which should have their place there, and be secured by a lock.
The apron should be long enough to button over the seat, so as to keep it dry
during the night, when it is mostly left without shelter, ' ' lock-up coach
houses " being rare in Norway. The Norwegian carries his provision box be
tween his legs in the carriole : and if not too large, there is just room for the
110
REQUISITES FOE TRAVELLING.
Norway
feet to rest beyond it. The Norwegian provision boxes are called "tine," or
"lobe," and are very useful. With a little arrangement the carriole may be
made comfortable, and capable of carrying all that is requisite for a journey.
Behind, the portmanteau, or box, can be strapped, and for that purpose
leather eyes should be fastened on beneath to the board and the straps passed
through them, which prevents shifting. The Norwegians generally use a box
of the dimensions described under head 9 of the General Introduction, and
covered with skin, or painted, to keep out wet. Upon this the peasant to
whom the horse belongs fastens his sack of hay, and seats himself as best
he can. A gun-case had better be slung under the body of the carriole.
Fishing-rods should be carried in a solid leather case, and lashed fore and aft
to the shafts ; or be slung in loops from the body and the dashing-board.
Saddle-bags, made upon the plan suggested under head 9, or two large stout,
leather pockets, one to be fastened on either side of the body, will be found a
great comfort. They should be secured upon their upper sides by two very
stout straps well scrcived (not nailed) to the frame of the seat inside, and ex
tending over the sides ; the buckles to be on the bags or pockets. The lower
sides should be buckled to straps screwed to the bottom of the carriole,
which keep the bags firmly in their place. The pocket on the right may be
set apart for maps, forbud papers, guide book, list of stations at which you
have ordered horses, &c, &c. ; and that on the left to provisions, which can
be easily and effectually protected from sun and rain by anything thrown over
the bag. To the outside of the dashing-Tx>ard a case for 4 bottles of wine may
be strapped, and to the inside a large leathern pocket to hold the pea-jacket
and mackintosh.
The pleasure of a tour in Norway so much depends on having as little bag
gage as possible, and that little comfortably arranged before starting, that the
time occupied in having a carriole fitted up accordingly will be amply repaid.
Great care must be taken to pack everything as tightly as possible which is to
be strapped at the back of your carriole, as the best preventive against the
constant friction to which it will be exposed from not being on springs, which
in every description of carriole are used for the body alone. If travelling
with your own horse, by all means take a spare set of shoes and a supply of
nails. A knife, fork, and spoon, a tin box for salt, and some mustard should
be taken. Meat, white bread, and biscuits, are rarely met with in Norway,
save in the towns and at a few of the best stations ; a brisk look-out should
therefore be kept for provender, and no opportunity lost of replenishing the
provision box. Preserved soup, and an uncooked ham or piece of bacon to be
fried in slices, are the most portable forms of meat. Tea, if it will be wanted,
should be taken from England ; none good can be obtained in Norway. It can
be carried very conveniently in a bottle in the bottle case. A few wax candles
had better be taken, if travelling after August. Nothing but tallow dips are
to be had at the stations. Capital coffee, milk, sugar, and eggs, and generally
Norway.
11EQUISITES FOE TBAVEI-LING.
Ill
rye-bread or oatineal-cake (flad-brod), fish, or bacon, are met with at most of

the stations. Sour milk, eaten with a little sugar and oat-cake, is delicious,
and a favourite Scandinavian dish. But the staple and most nutritious food
of the peasants, and which may be obtained in every hovel in Norway and
Sweden, is porridge (grod). They prepare it very carefully and admirably,
and it is a capital dish to fall back upon when nothing better can be obtained.
A dog may be carried in a net or bag slung under the carriole, upon the
Italian plan. It is always the safest way to carry a dog in that manner in
case of his being attacked by a wolf, for with that animal a dog is an
irresistible temptation. Pigs and cattle will also frequently attack a strange
dog very fiercely, perhaps mistaking him for a wolf.
Mr. Bennett, an Englishman, residing at No. 17, Store Strandgade, lias for
many years fitted out most of the English travellers with carrioles, &c. Any
one, by writing to him from England, or by telegraphing from Christiansand,
on the arrival of the steamer there, may get everything provided for them
ready for their departure on the morning after their arrival in Christiania.
Phaetons of the lightest description, as before observed, are the only fourwheeled carriages which can with either comfort or safety be used in Norway.
If a servant be taken, he drives, and the second seat in front is occupied by
the peasant who owns the horses. The only space for luggage is, therefore,
under the front and back seats. Nothing above 12 inches high will go under
them. If intending to return to Christiania, the best plan is to leave every
thing there except what may be requisite for the time you intend to be absent.
Expanding portmanteaus, not exceeding 22 inches long by 14 wide and 12
deep, or cases of sheepskin or fustian mackintosh of that size, will be found
the most convenient to stow away. Bags or pockets fixed on each side of the
back seat (similar to those recommended for carrioles) are a great convenience.
Or provisions can be taken in a basket, which should be covered with oil-skin
to keep out dust and rain. A case for i bottles of wine may be fastened to
the dashing-board. Slings should be fixed at the back of the front seat for
an umbrella. A strong fork must be fixed at the back of the carriage to stay
it while the horses take breath on going up hill ; and two stout drags for the
wheels must not be omitted. The harness should have breeching ; and the
whole should be carefully looked over and examined to see that it is in good
repair, particularly the reins. A hammer, winch, rope, &c, should be
taken, as in a carriole. The natives do not travel much in summer, and,
when they do, it is almost entirely by carriole, and thence the ignorance which
prevails even in Christiania as to what is essential for safety in travelling
with a 4-wheeled carriage. We cannot too strongly caution those who value
their lives not to venture into the interior with any carnage of a heavier
description than a phaeton, or unprovided with shafts, fork, drags, and strong
harness.
Luggage Cart. Those who have too much baggage to take with them had
HIKE OF HORSES, BOATS, ETC.
Norway.
better purchase a little spring cart for it to be used by the Forbud (see weight
allowed at p. 113). If this be not done, the common carts without springs,
kept at the stations, must bg used, and luggage becomes much injured by the
repeated changes on the road and jolting. It is well to take a piece of tar
paulin from England for covering the luggage in the forbud-cart. It is difficult
to procure in Christiania, and had better be taken from England.
6. POSTING REGULATIONS, SKYDTS LAW, SENDING FORBUD, TABLE OF
PAYMENTS FOR HORSES.
TABLE
OF RATES FOR HORSES, BOATS, &C, PER NORSK MILE, EQUAL to 7 ENG. MILES.
LAND.
a
"> .
iff
H-i J. H
SkiMingB.
For one horse .
48
Carriole with harness
6
Two-horse cart with
double harness .
6
One-horse cart with
single harness .
3
Saddle with bridle, or
long sleigh with
harness ....
2
Harness for leaders up
and down hill, or
pack-saddle .
1
Each man ....
Each 4-oared boat
6 ditto
,, 8 ditto
10 ditto
WATER.
Fromordinary
CZ
.5 5 3 m"
Ms
.= ? 3
1= ?
3
Pg.2o
XV
Stations.

o6 -J3
55
Skilling-. Skillings. Skilliugs. Skillings. Skilliugs.
36
36
24
4
C
4
1
24
8
12
24
32
20
8
12
24
32
If two persons past with the same vehicle with one horse, 1 \ fare is charged.
The above fares for boats are for such as are constructed for sailing and rowing,
for row-boats only the charge is one-half less.
Independent of the above rates, the post-master is entitled to 4 skillings for
each horse, or 2 skillings for each boatman ; this is termed "tilsigelse," and
is allowed him as his remuneration for the trouble of ordering them for the
Norway.
SKYDTS LAW.
113
traveller, and he is entitled to the same fee of 2 skillings for each 8 or 10-oared
boat, hut at fast stations no tilsigelse is paid.
Three people and the post-hoy can travel with two horses, if the carriage be
not too cumbersome.
On a cart with two horses in the summer, or on a sleigh in the winter,
luggage to the extent of 640 skaalpunds may he carried.*
On a cart with one horse, 320 lbs.
On a carriole, chaise cart, or sleigh with one person, 64 lbs.
But if two persons travel with one horse, they are only allowed to carry
16 lbs.
The load of a horse with a pack-saddle is 192 lbs.
Persons hiring boats may load them with as many people or goods as they
can safely carry without any extra charge.
Although the law fixes the weight of luggage as above stated, yet, unless the
traveller has imprudently encumbered himself with a very undue quantity, and
attempts to overload the horse or vehicle, no question as to the exact weight is
ever mooted.
Skydts Law.The following is an abstract of the act passed by the Storthing
of 1845.
At stations which are not fast, if the Forbud arrives three hours before the
time at which the horses or boatmen are required to be at the station, and if
they are not there when the traveller arrives, the owner of the horses or the
post-master is fined one specie dollar for each horse or boatman ; and when the
traveller does not arrive at the time he has stipulated, but detains the horses
or boatmen beyond one hour, he has to pay one quarter of the rate for a mile,
for each horse or boatman, as waiting money, and the post-master can refuse to
supply him until this be paid, If the traveller does not arrive within three
hours of the time he has appointed, the owner of the horses is not bound to
wait any longer, and has a right to claim, as detention money, one-half of the
rate for a mile for each horse, and each boatman may claim a similar pay
ment.
If the traveller's late arrival has been caused by his having been detained at
one of the previous stations, and he brings a certificate to that effect, which
the post-master, under a penalty of 3 dollars, cannot refuse to give him, he is
not bound to pay any detention money, hut the party who caused the delay has
to pay it. If detained in consequence of the weather, or of any accident
which prevented his proceeding, and which is proved by the certificate of the
post-master, he is not bound to pay this charge.
At stations which are not fast, and to which no Forbud has been sent, if the
horses are a J of a mile, \ a mile, or a mile distant from the station, the tra
veller must wait respectively one, two, and three hours ; but should he be
detained beyond that time, unless through some unforeseen hindrance, the post* ec Noi sk weights, p. 105.
114
SENDING FORBUD.
Norway.
master, or owner of the horses, is subject to a fine of \ a dollar for every addi
tional hour that the traveller is detained.
When the traveller does not drive himself, but leaves the reins to the post
boy, no responsibility with regard to the horse rests on him, but if he drives
himself, and the horse is ill-used or driven beyond its strength, and the post-boy
complains, the post-master at the next station, two other men being called in to
confirm his opinion, is to ascertain the extent of the injury done to the horse,
and this the traveller is bound to pay ; and until he does so, the post-master is
authorized to refuse to provide him with horses. This money is to be deposited
with the post-master for four weeks, so that the traveller can appeal against
his decision and have the case more fully investigated.
Travellers have to pay all tolls.
Where there are no post stations, a special agreement must be made with
the owners of the horses.
In towns, the horses are to meet the traveller at any spot which he shall fix
upon, and in the country at any place not above J of a mile from the station ;
beyond that distance he must pay the usual mileage rate.
Drivers are always required to keep on the right side of the road, and not to
occupy more than half of it ; any offence against this regulation subjects the
offending party to a penalty of 1 specie dollar.
The Day-book (Dagbog). At every station a book is kept, in which the
traveller enters his name, destination, the number of horses he uses, and states
any complaints he may have to make against the post-master, post-boy, or
others ; these books are periodically inspected by the authorities, the complaints
stated in them are inquired into, and the accused parties, if they are found to
have acted improperly, are punished. Should the post-master refuse to pro
duce this book, he is liable to a fine of half a specie dollar. To this book are
always attached the posting regulations, and the distances to the adjoining
stations. At every post station the giasstgiver or landlord is bound to have,
and produce for inspection if required, a table of rates and charges of the dif
ferent articles of food and liquors, which rates are fixed by the authorities ;
but the charges are generally so moderate that few travellers appeal to this
document, unless they have reason to suppose that they have been imposed upon,
and are desirous of punishing the offender. At the country stations a bill is
rarely, if ever, given even if asked for ; the total amount claimed being merely
stated.
Sending Forbud.The following is the usual form of the printed Forbud
papers, which may be purchased in all the towns, in blank. The words in
Roman letters show how they are to be filled up.
!Paa 1'fiiHffiftct Grorud ucftittcS 1 pflet een cil nice etc og 2 fiset to lofe
Scftc at ftaoc fccttiec.Thorscaccn ten 4de Juni, 1848. A'orniittnscn, itCoffcn
11.
Norway.
SENDING FOEBUD.
115
9?!cc oc&utct (fom bttalei vrt UirtertcsmeccS amfomfr) fMccr. 1 Yadscek, og 1

Hataeske.
Christiania ten 3die Juni, 1848.
3ca ammotct jcdlgt'ocKn cm at tcccc Omfotg for, at $oi('trtct ftrar caa
t'itccc, co at nctct-c i ITaoboocn liaac amtemmet ea icjen afjaact.
Literal Translation.
At the Skyds station Grorud,* there is ordered 1, to say one, Horse t with
harness, J: and 2, to say two, loose Horses to stand ready Thursday the 4th
June, 1848. forenoon at 11 o'clock.
With the Forbud (which is to be paid at the undersigned's arrival) there
comes]! a Portmanteau, and Hat-box.
Christiania,^ the 3rd June, 1848.
A. B.*
I beg the Landlord to take care that the Forbud immediately goes on, and
to notice in the Day-book when it arrives and again starts forward.
N.B. Great care is requisite when filling up these papers for fixing the
proper hour at which the horses will be wanted, and a List should be
accurately made and kept of the different stations at which the Forbud
papers are to be left, and the time horses are ordered at each station.
This will prevent confusion or mistakes. The usual rate of travelling in
a carriole is one Norsk mile (or 7 Eng. ) an hour^ where the roads are not
very hilly ; but it is always better to allow
hour for each mile on
account of the penalties which travellers are liable to when they arrive
much after the time at which they have ordered the horses (see p. 113).
With the lightest 4-wheeled carriage it takes about 20 minutes per Norsk
mile longer than by carriole, and even more than that when the hills are
very steep.
Forbud papers may be sent by post at a cost of four skillings for each
paper, which is a considerable saving of expense in a long journey. But to
prevent mistakes travellers should personally ascertain at the post-office when
the post will go the road they wish to travel. But, however they may be
transmitted, in the event of several Forbud papers being sent at the same
time, it is usual to number them, and write very distinctly the name of the
station at which each is to be left. This is done in the margin, or at the
back, together with the following
* The name of the station at which the horses are to be ordered.
t Heat is the singular, Heste plural.'
J If no horse wanted with harness strike this out.
" Loose " horse means without harness.
I Any luggage sent by the Forbud cart should be stated here.
1T The place from whence the Forbud paper is sent.
** Signature of the person who sends it.
110
SEKDT.NG FOHBUD.
Norway.
Notice to Station-Masters,
where travellers desire that dinners, &c. , or beds, should he ready for them
on their arrival.
jeftfliDCi'cn Vaa Grorud anmotcS fjci-l'cS cm at Ijat'C Aftensmad, as Senge foe
tre ^ccfoncc fcccCifl cc mill Wntomft.
i
ST. SB.
Translation.
The Master of the Grorud Station is hereby requested to have Supper and
Beds* ready for 3 persons on my arrival.
A. B.
Should the traveller be kept waiting for horses beyond the time he has
ordered them, the following is the proper form of entry to be made in the
Day-book kept at the station. If not written in Norsk it will not be attended
to ; and it should not be made except in an extreme case, as it subjects the
party complained of to a penalty, and in many places the peasants have to
come from long distances to the stations.
Form of Entry in Day-hook.
Unccrtcanccc a Mcucn ovtjotot vaa cctte Sfyeeftifte sentence vaa cf:c, fom ci
a:ifom foi'cnc to Zinm cftcr ecu, vaa goc&ucefcccelcn cmaiwie Sit.
9f. 23.
Translation.
The undersigned has been detained at this Station, waiting for horses, which
did not arrive until two hours t after the time specified on the Forbud
paper.
A. B.
It sometimes happens that persons change their- plans, and take another
road after having sent off their Forbud papers, and horses are ordered as
requested. Whenever this occurs, the forfeit-money due to the owners of the
horses, and .also to the station-masters for ordering them, should be carefully
paid, which may be done without any difficulty at the next post-office arrived
at in any of the towns. Persons are not only legally liable, and will be made
to pay these sums if they can be traced, but it is grossly unjust and dishonour
able to evade the payment. Except at fast stations, the horses have often to be
sent for several English miles from the station ; besides which, when required
during the hay season, the service of both men and horses is of so much more
value at home, that it is usually a loss to the farmer even when paid the full
charge allowed by law. In such a country as Norway, the wrongful act of a
traveller is not only prejudicial to his own reputation, but also to those who
may follow him, and particularly to his own countrymen.
* Breakfast, ftokost. Diiraer, middagsmad.
t Of whatever the time may have been.
'Norwnj.
TABLE OF PAYMENTS FOR HORSES.
117
TABLE
OS1 PAYMENTS FOR HORSES, CALCULATED AT THE ORDINARY RATE OP 24
SHILLINGS PER HORSE PER NORSX MILE.*
Distance.
5i Mile
i3
8
i
J1
47
One
li
li
if
i*
ilif
H
Two
n
2i
2|
24
2i
2f
2J
Three,,
1 Horse.
Marks.
i
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
3
Sk.
3
6
9
12
15
18
21
"3
6
9
12
15
18
21
3
6
9
12
15
18
21
3 Horses.
Marks.
'
i
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
3
3
3
3
4
4
4
4
5
5
5
5
6
Sk.
6
12
18
6
12
18
6
12
18
6
12
18
6
12
18
6
12
18
3 Horses.
Marks.
i
1
1
2
2
3
3
3
4
4
4
5
5
6
6
G
7
7
7
8
8
9
Sk.
9
18
3
12
21
6
15
9
18
3
12
21
6
15
9
18
3
12
21
6
15
With the assistance of the above table and previous information, the charges
for horses at the different descriptions of fast stations, and also for boatmen
and boats, may be readily calculated. The peasants are slow in calculating,
but generally honest in their demands. Where any difference arises as to
payment the station-master should be applied to, and whatever he states to be
the proper sum to be paid may be relied upon as correct.
The peasants who accompany the horses are not entitled to anything, but it
is customary to pay them a gratuity (drikke-penge) at the rate of 3 or 4
sldllings per horse per mile. The Norwegians are fond of their horses, and it
both pains and irritates them extremely to see their favourites ill-used or
driven faster than the usual carriole rate of one Norsk mile an hour, even
when the roads are good.
* At fast stations it is one-half more, or 36 skillings per mile.
118
DANISH AND NORSK ALPHABET, ETC.
Norway.
7. BANISH AND NORWEGIAN ALPHABET, VOCABULARY, ETC.*

The Alphabet.
Although the Roman character is daily gaining ground, the Gothic form is
Etill in very general use.
The Danish Alphabet consists of 27 letters, viz. :
Pronounced.
Power.
Roman.
Gothic.
a in Father, f
A, a,
Ah,
9C, a,
b.
B, b,
Bey,
*, (.,
s and h, as in Eng
0, c,
Cey,
e, c,
lish.
d hard, and th flat,
D, d,
Dey,
as in thus.
French e ferrtiC,
e, o,
E, e,
By,
and I ouvert.
Eff,
/
F, t,
% f,
Ghey,
V in go, give.
G, e,
@, 8,
H, h,
9, f),
Haw,
h aspirated.
I, i,
Ee,
ee in bee, i in bill.
. 3. i.
J,
Yoth,
y consonant.
3, i,
K, k,
Kaw,
h, and sometimes
t,
like ch.
L,l,
s r,
EI,
1.
S, tit,
Em,
M, m,
m.
N, n,
En,
it.
3!, n,
0, o,
0, o,
o in more, for.
o,
Pey,
P, P,
V, P,
PKoo,
0, q,
Q, q,
2R, r,
Er,
95, t,
r.
Es,
s hard.
S, s,
S, 1,
T, t,
S, f,
Tey,
t.
IT, u,
oo infool, n infull.
U, U,
Oo,
V, v,
a',
v in vein, w in howl.
Vey,
X, x,
Ex,
x hard.
, r,
Y, y,
u in pur.
u,
2>, >),
Z, z,
Set,
z.
3, 5,
M, a?,
Ai,
a in sale, ai in said.
0, <;,
5, ij,
(French) ouvert in
Eu,
veuvej obu in
ccewr,
* See page 2. A small Danish and English Dictionary has been published at Leipsig, and
may he obtained at the Foreign booksellers' in London. Rask's Danish Grammar, for the use
of Englishmen, can be procured of Mr. Quaritch, 16, Castle Street, Leicester Square.
t Where aa occurs it is sounded nearly like the English a in tcarm, or the oa in broad.
Norway.
THE ARTICLES.PERSONAL PRONOUXS.
119
Pronunciation.
In Danish every word is pronounced as it is written. One of the greatest
difficulties is to distinguish between the vowels u, y, and 6 ; and very long
practice is necessary to give the right sound of these.
The Articles.
,
The greatest peculiarity of the Danish language is the use of the articles.
The indefinite article has two forms, viz. , et before a noun of the neuter,
and en before one of the common gender (which includes masculine and femi
nine nouns) ; it has no plural.
Ex. Neuter.
Common.
Sing, et Land, a country.
en Stol, a chair.
Plur. Lande, countries.
Stole, chairs.
The definite article of nouns substantive is el in the neuter, en in the
common gender, and -ne, -ene for the plural of both genders, and always
added as an affix to the nouns, as
Ex. Neuter.
Common.
Sing. Landei, the country.
Stolen, the chair.
.
Plur. Landewe, the countries.
Stoleme, the chairs.
The definite article of adjectives is det for the neuter, den for the common,
and de for the plural of both genders, as
Sing, det skonne * Land,
the fine country.
Plur. de skonne Lande,
the fine countries.
Sing, den gamle Stol,
the old chair.
Plur. de gamle Stole,
the old chairs.
The Personal Pronouns are
Sing.
Plur.
jeg (pronounced yei)
/
vi
we
du
thou
I
you
han
he
)
,hun
, >)
de
thai"
she
De, they, is used instead of 7 in addressing a person, (like the German Sie,)
in which case it is written with a capital letter.
The Numerals.
Cardinal.
Ordinal.
1, een, one.
det, den, forste, the first.
2, to, two.
anden, the second.
3, tre, three.
tredie, the third.
* The k is pronounced soft, us ch, like sclwn in Germnn.
NUMERALS.DAYS OF THE WEEK.
Norway.
4, fire, four.
det, den, fjerde, the fourth.
5, fern, five.
femte, the fifth.
G, sex, six.
sjette, the sixth.
7, syv, seven.
syvende, the seventh.
8, otte, eight.
ottende, the eighth.
niende, the ninth.
9,. ni, nine.
10, ti, ten.
tiende, the tenth.
11, elleve, eleven.
ellefte, the eleventh.
.
12, tolv, twelve.
tolvte, the twelfth.
trettende, the thirteenth.
13, tretten, thirteen.
fjortende, the fourteenth.
14, fjoi'ten, fourteen.
femtende, the fifteenth.
15, feraten, fifteen.
sextende, the sixteenth.
16, sexten, sixteen.
syttende, the seventeenth.
17, sytten, seventeen.
attende, the eighteenth.

18, atten, eighteen.
nittende, the nineteenth.
19, nitten, nineteen.
20, tyve, twenty.
tyvende, the twentieth.
een og tyrende, twenty21, een og tyve, twenty-one, d-c.
first, &c.
m
tredivte, the thirtieth.

30, tredive, thirty.
fyrretyvende, the fortieth.
40, fyrretyve, forty.
halvtresindstyvende, or fem50, halvtresindstyve, or halvtrcs, or
tiende, the fiftieth.
femti, jt/ty.
60, tresindstyve, or sexti, Si'.rfy. .
trssindstyvende, or sextiende, the sixtieth.
70, halvfjersindstyve, or halrfjers, or
halvfjersindstyvende, or sytsytti, seventy.
tiende, the seventieth.
80, fjersindstyve, or otti, eighty.
fjersindstyvende, orottiende,
the eightieth.
halvfemsindstyvende, or nit5o, halvfemsindstyve, orhalvfems, or
tiende, the ninetieth.
nitti, ninety.
hundrede, the hundredth.
100, hundrede, hundred.
101, hundrede og een, &c, one hun
hundrede og forste, the hun
dred and one.
dred and first.
tusende, the one thousandth.
1000, tusende, one thousand.
Days of
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Mondag.
Tirsdag.
Onsdag.
Thorsdag.
Weei.
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Fredag.
Loterdag.
Sondag.
Norway.
months.vocabulary.
liil
Months.
January
February
March
April
May
June
Again
Aid
Ale
All
All the same
Also
Altogether
Always
And
Answer
Arm
Ask, to
As much as
As well as
At
Away
Axletree
Back again
Bad
Bag
Barley
Basket
Bath
Bear
Because
Bed
Before
Berth
Best
Better
Between
Bill, the
Bird
Jarmar.
Februar.
Marts.
April.
Mai.
Juni.
July
August
September
October
November
December
Jvli.
August.
September.
October.
November.
December.
VOCABULARY.
Jgien.
Biscuits
Tvebahher.
Black cock
Hielp.
Urhane.
01.
Boat
Baad.*
Boil, to
Al and Alt.
Koge.
Slig slag.
Boots
Stovler.
Flash
Ogsaa.
Bottle
Gut.
Alsammen.
Boy
Altid.
Boy, that goes
|
Skydskarl.
Og.
with horses
Brandy
Brcendeviin.
Svar.
(J SmSr og brod,Arm.
Breadand butter ( Smbrbrod.
Sporge.
Frohost.
Saa meget som.
Breakfast
Saavelsom.
Bridle
Bidsel.
Til, ved.
Brush
Bbrste.
Bart.
Bucket
Spand.
Axel.
Buckle
Spcende.
Tilbage.
Smor.
Butter
Kjbbe.
Slem, ond.
Buy, to
Seek.
Afvei, sidevei.
By-way
Saabe, kalde.
BygCall, to
Can
Kan.
Kwrv.
Candle
Lys.
Badehar.
Hue.
Bjorn.
Cap
Capercailie
Tiwr.
Fordi.
Vogn.
Seng.
Carriage
Carriole
For.
Carriole.
Cart
Karre.
Koie.
Chain
Bedst.
Kjosde.
Chair
Stol.
Bedre.
Change (small
lmellem.
j Smaapenge.
money)
Begningen, nota.
Change,
to
(mone
Fugl.
y) Yexle.
* Pronounced nearly like the English loaU
a
122
Char
Cheese
Chemist's shop
Coat
Coffee
Clean
Cod
Collar, horse
Comb
Come, to
Cook, to
Corerlid
Cream, sweet
Cup
Cut, to
Danger
Daughter
Day-book
Deep
Dinner
Do, to
Dog
Door
Drink-money
Duck
Early
Eat, to
Eggs
Eggs (boiled)
,, (poached)
Elk
Enough
Evening
Every, each
Everywhere
Exchange, to
Face
Fall, to
Far
Farm-house
Ferry
Field
Fire
Firewood
VOCABULARY.
Rbr.
Ost.
Apotheke.
Kiole.
Kaffee.
Seen.
Torsk.
Halskobbel.
Kam.
Komme.
Koge.
Teppe.
Flbde.
Kop.
Skccre.
Fare.
Datler.
Dagbog.
Dyb.
Middags-mad.
OiSre.
Bund.
DSr.
Drikke-pencpe.
And.
Tidlig.
Spue.
(Egg.
Kogte (Egg.
Blodkogte (Egg.
Elsdyr.
Nok.
Qvcel.
Hver.
Overall.
Bytte.
Ansiyt.
Falde.
Langt, borte.
Bonde-gaard.
Fosrge.
Mark, Ager.
m.
Ytd.
Norway.
Fish
Fisk.
Fish, to
Fiske.
Fishing-line
Fiske-mor.
Fishing-rod
Fiske-stang.
Fly
Flue.
Fly (artificial) Flue-angel, Flue-krog.
Fork
Gaffel.
Forwards
Frem.
Fox
Rcev.
Fry, to
Stege.
Stegepande.
Frying-pan
Vild.
Game
Get, to
Faae.
Girl
Pige.
i
Girth
Sadelgjord.
Give, to
Give.
Det glceder mig.
Glad, I am
Glass
Glas.
Gaae.
Go, to
Grass
Grms.
Grayling
Syk.
Grease (for wheelsjSmorning.
Skydegevmr, Gevmr.
Gun
Gunpowder
Krudt.
Hoar.
Hair
Hall
ffalv.
Ham, or bacon Skinke.
Hand, right
ffojere Haand.
Venstre Haand.
Hand, left
Handkerchief
Lommetorklmde.
Hare.
Hare
Sele.
Harness
Hjerpe.
Hasel-hen
Skynde paa.
Hasten on
Hat.
Hat
Have, to
Have.
Ho.
Hay
Herfra.
Hence
Here
Her.
Herring
SOd.
Bakke.
Hill
Hold (of a ship) Rum.
Hold of, to take Tage fat paa.
Angel, Krog.
Hook
Norway.
VOCABULARY.
Mine
Min.
Hest.
Horse
Money
Penge.
Time.
Hour
En halv Time.
Money,
paid for or - )| ^^tse-penge.
Hour, half an
deringpost-horses
Mand.
Husband
More
Mere.
Dersom.
If
Most
Mest.
In
I.
Strax.
Immediately
Mountain
Fjeld, Bjerg.
Blcek.
Much
Meget.
Ink
Inn Giasstgver Oaard, Vcertshv/as. Mustard
Sennep.
Interpreter
Tolh.
My
Min.
0, Holm.
Island
Nail
Negl.
Kruus.
Jug
Near
Nar.
Holde.
Keep, to
Syenaal.
Needle
Tande.
Kindle, to
Net (large drawing) Net.
Kniv.
Knife
Net (smaller, and ]
Star.
usually fixed) | Gam.
Large
Frue*
Lady
Never
Aldrig.
Lady (young un
Newspaper
Avis.
j
Froken.
married)
Ncest uge.
Next week
Lake (large)
Indsoe.
Night, in the
Om natten.
Lake
Vand.
Nat-quartier.
Night lodging
Late
Sildig.
No
Nei.f
Senere.
Later
Nobody
Ingen.
Lay, to
jLcegge, scstte.
Nothing
lntet.
Lead
Sly.
Nu.
Now
Least
Mindst.
Aare.%
Oar
Mindre.
Flad-Brdd.
Less
Oat-cake
Letter
Brev.
Havre.
Oats
Liden.
Little
Of
AfLook
See.
Ofte.
Often
Lucifer matches Svovlstikker.
Olie.
Oil
Tout.
Luggage
Eengang.
Once
Man, that sup Skyds-skaffer.
One more
Een til.
pliespost-horses
Bestille.
Order, to
Many
Mange.
Vor.
Our
Map
Veikart.
Over.
Over
Meat, fresh
Pandekager.
Kiiid.
Pancakes
Milk
Papiir.
Melk.
Paper
Prastegaard.
Me
Mig.
Parsonage
* Frue, lady, is used to wives of men ofrank, namely, those who hold government appoint
ments, such as Ministers of State, Clergy, 1'ield Officers in the Army, and of corresponding
rank iu the Navy, Professors, &c, and Froken to their daughters; Madame to the wives of
Merchants and Tradesmen ; Jomfru to their daughters,
t Pronounced nay.
t Pronounced nearly like the English oar.
124
VOCABULARY.
Agerhone.
Partridge
Betale.
Pay, to
Pen.
Pen
Peber.
Pepper
Lage.
Physicians
Stykke.
Piece
Loth.
Pilot
Gedde.
Pike or Jack
Hovedpude.
Pillow
Tallerken.
Plate
Forndielse.
Pleasure
Vadsosk.
Portmanteau
Portviin.
Port-wine
Post-contoir.
Post-office
Potates.
Potatoes
Rype.
Ptarmigan
Scette.
Put, to
Fcerdig.
Beady
ffjoH.
Red deer
Snelle.
Keel
T&mme.
Rein
Rensdyr.
Reindeer
Return, to
Vende tilbag
Ride.
Ride, to
Eh, Flod.
River
Vei.
Road
Stege.
Roast
Room or chamber Vcerelse.
Roe.
Row, to
Roerkarl.
Rower
RygRye
Sadel.
Saddle
Sikker.
Safe
Lax.
Salmon
Salt.
Salt
Soissars, pair of Saxe.
Scelge.
Sell, to
Armene.
Shafts, the
Skal.
Shall
Grund.
Shallow
Lagene.
Sheets, the
Vise.
Shew, to
Sko.
Shoe
Hest-Sko.
Shoe, horse
Norway.
Shot
Bagel.
Side, on this
Paa den side.
Side, on the other Paa den andre side.
Since
Siden.
Smell, to
Lugte.
Snipe
Sneppe.
Soap
Scebe.
Son
Son.
Speak, to
Tale.
Spoon
Skee.
Stable
Staid.
Stage, the
Skiftet.
Steamer
Dampskih.
Opvarfer.
Steward
StigMile.
Stirrups
Om.
Store
Snor.
String
Rem.
Strap
Halm.
Straw
Sukker.
Sugar
Aftensmad.
Supper
Bord.
Table
Tage.
Take, to
Take care of, to Sorge for.
Passe paa.
Take care
Presenning.
Tarpaulin
Thee.
Tea
Da.
Then
Derfra.
Thence
Kaste.
Throw, to
Til.
To
Idag.
To-day
Imorgen.
To-morrow
Inat.
To-night
Haandkla-der.
Towel
By.
Town
Reise.
Travel, to
Forelle, Orel.
Trout
Beenklader.
Trowsers
Tub (to wash in) Kar.
To Gang.
Twice
Under.
Under
Paa.
Upon
Dal.
Valley
Norway.
Very
Vinegar
Water
Waterfall
Wheel
When
Where
Whip, driving
Why
Why not
dialogues.
Meget.
(Edikke.
Vand.
Fos, Vandfald.
Miul.
Naar.
Hvor.
Sv'obe.
Hvorfor.
Hvorfor ikke.
Wife
Window
Wine
With
Without
Woodcock
Woodgrouse
Wood, a forest
Yes
Yesterday
Kone.
Vindue.
Viin.
Med.
Uden.
Rygde.
Ryper.
Skov.
Ja, jo.
Igaar.
DIALOGUES.
God Morgen 1
Good Morning !
Hvor staae det til f
How do you do ?
Very well, I thank you.
Jeg takker, meget vel.
Be so kind as to take a seat.
Vr saa artig at tage en Stol.
Sit down a moment.
Sid ned et Ojeblik.
Where are you going ?
Hvor skal De hen t
Show me the way.
Vise mig Veien.
Hvilken er Veien t
Which is the way ?
But when shall we see each other Men naar sees vi nu iglen >
again 1
Shall we then meet to-night ?
Sees vi saa i Aften ?
In the evening I shall be at home.
Om Aftenen er jeg hjemme.
At what hour i
Ja hvad Tid?
About six or seven o'clock.
Omtrent Klokken sex eller syv.
Shall I expect you then ?
Maajeg da vente Dem !
Good bye !
Farvel! AdieuJ
Good evening.
God Aften.
I beg pardon.
Jeg beder om forladelse.
I don't know.
Jeg veed ikke.
I am very happy to see you.
Det fornojer mig meget at see De
I am much obliged to you.
Jeg er Dem meget forbunden.
Many thanks.
Mange tak.
Thank you (literally, thanks shall you Tak skal De have.
have).
Come here.
Komme hid.
Wait a little.
Bie en lidt gran.
Do you speak DanishNorwegian ?
Taler De DanskNorsk 1
Jeg kan ikke tale Norsk.
I cannot speak Norwegian.
De maa tale langsomt.
You must speak slowly.
Forstaaer De mig >
Do you understand me ?
Ja, jeg forstaaer Dem meget vd.
Yes, I understand you very well.
126
DIALOGUES.
I cannot understand yon.

What o'clock is it ?
It is two o'clock.
It is half-past one.
It is three-quarters past two.
Is it possible 1
What is that called?
How many miles is it from here
to ... 1
Is the road good ?
Did you ever travel this way before ?
Are there any good inns upon the
road ?
Is the road safe !
What conveyance can I have to ... ?
How much must I pay for each
horse ?
How much must I give the pos
tilion ?
Can I depend on having fresh horses
on the road 1
I shall perform the journey on horse
back.
I have but little luggage.
Where do we change horses ?
Where are the horses ?
The horses were ordered for one
o'clock.
Put grease on the wheels.
Is there a ferry ?
Put me over the river.
How much must we pay for the pas
sage ?
How much does a place in the vessel
cost?
I wish to go to . . .in the steamer.
When does the steamer go ?
Can I have this berth ?
Is there no room ?
Is there no boat here ?
Can you procure me a boat with a
couple of rowers ?
Norway.
Jeg kan ikkeforttaae Dem.

Hvor mange Klokken nu, I
Klokken er to.
J)en er halv to.
Den er tre quateer till tre.
Er det Mulig I
Hvad kattes delte t
Hvormange Mile er det herfra
til . . .t
Er Veien god l
Har De reist denne Vex for 1
Findes gode Gjcestgiversteder paa
Veien i
Er Veien sikker >
Hvad Slags Befordring kan jeg faae
til . . . ?
Hvor meget maa jeg betale for hver
Hest?
Hvor meget maa jeg betale til
Kudsken i
Kan jeg gibre Regning paa overalt at
findefriske Heste ?
Jeg vil gibre Reisen tilhest.
Jeg har kun ubetydeligt T'oi.
Hvor skifter man Heste f
Hvor ere Hestene ?
Hestene vare bestilte til klokken eet.
Stte smbrning til hiulene.
Er der nogen Frge t
Stte mig over elven.
Hvor meget maa man betale for Over
farten !
Hvor meget koster en Plads paa Ski
bet!
Jeg bnsker at gaae til . . . med
Dampen.
Hvad tid gaaer Dampen !
Kan jeg faae denne koie t
Findes ingen Plads !
Findes ingen Baad her i
Kan man skaffe mig en Baad med et
Par Roerkarle i
Norway.
DIALOGUES.
Go ashore.
Let the boat drop down.
Can I get a horse directly ?
Is this the road to .... ?
Can I sleep here to-night t
Can I get anything to eat ?
What kind of meat is there ?
What can you give us for supper ?
(jive us whatever you have.
I am hungry : I am thirsty.
Give me something to eat and drink.
What do you like to have ?
Fetch me some wine, bread, and
cheese.
Give me a plate, please.
Let me have a cup of coffee.
Shut the door, window.
Light a fire in the stove.
Not too much.
Bring me a tub with some cold
water.
I wish to breakfast.
What do you say ?
Who is there ?
Come in.
What do you want ?
Stand still.
Go away.
Don't touch.
Let go.
I shall walk.
Are you ready ?
Are our rooms ready ?
Is my bed made ?
Bring me a wash-hand basin.
Bring me a towel.
Send the dirty clothes to the washer
woman.
Wake me to-morrow, early.
Clean my boots.
Bring me my shoes.
How much do we owe you ?
What does this cost ?
It is very dear.
Gaae til land.

Lade baaden slippe ned.
Kan jeg faae en IIest strax t
Er denne Veien til . . . . ?
Kanjeg ligge her inat !
Kan jeg faa noget at spise l
Hvad slags kj'od er der ?
Hvad kan De give os til aftens.
Giv os hvad De Har.
Jeg er sulten : jeg er torstig.
Giv mig noget at spise og drikke.
Hvad behager De ?
Hent mig Viin, Brod og Ost.
- Giv mig en Tallerken, vr saa godt.
Lade mig faae en kop kaffe.
Lukke Dbren, Vinduet.
Lgge Varmt i Ovnen.
Ikke formeget.
Bring mig et Vandkar med kold
Vand.
Jeg onsker at spise Frokost.
Hvad siger De i
Hvem er der i
Kom ind.
Hvad onsker De !
Staae stille.
Gaae bort
Ikke rore.
Lade slippe.
Jed skal spadsere.
Er De frdig?
Ere vore Vrelser istand !
Er min Seng redet ?
Bring mig en Vadskevand Skaal.
Bring mig et Haandklde.
Send smudset Toi til Vaskekonen.
Vk mig imorgen tidlig.
Borst mine Stovler.
Bring mig mine Skoe.
Hvor meget ere vi Dem skyldige i
Hvad koster den f
Det er meget kostbar.
128
8CENEEY AND SKETCHING.
Norway.
Det er alt formeget.

It is far too much.
Give me the bill.
Giv mig Regningen.
What have we to pay 1
Hvad har vi at betale t
The bill is reasonable.
Regningen er ganske billig.
Here is your money.
Her ere Pengene.
The bill is too much.
Regningen er for hoi.
I will not pay more than 4 marks.
Jeg vil ikke betale mere end 4 Marie.
N.B.Throughout Scandinavia, where the rank of a gentleman is not accu
rately known, in directing a letter to him, it is usual to write in capital
letters, S. T. (salvo titulo) over his name, to guard against any offence being
taken in omitting or mis-stating his title.
8. SCENERY AND SKETCHING.
The grandest scenery in Norway is about that great chain of mountains
which, as before-mentioned, runs from N. to S. nearly throughout the whole
country. The most select portions, as well as those most attainable, are com
prised in the following Routes, viz. , part of Route 24, from Christiansand to
Molde and Christiansund ; N. of Trondhjem, upon that route, the valleys of
the Namsen and the Alten, and the peaked mountains in the extreme N. , are
also very grand, but, as a whole, will not bear comparison with the scenery S.
of Christiansund, besides which the only mode of travelling N. of the Namsen
is by open boats or steamers. In addition to the above, the finest scenery will
be found in Routes 21, 22, and 23, between Christiania and Bergen ; Route
26, Christiania to Trondhjem ; Route 30, through Romsdalen to Molde ; and
Route 38, from Lierdalsoren through the mountains to Romsdalen. To the
E. of Route 26, in the interior of the country, the forests are dense and of
enormous extent, and the scenery, though at times grand and very wild, is far
less picturesque than upon the W. of that Route.
Sketching. Norway is still but slightly known to artists or amateurs.
Danby, senior, was there some years since, also Edward Price and Zeigler, and
in 1847, West, of Bristol, made a beautiful series of more than 50 finished
sketches, in his happiest manner, of the most celebrated waterfalls and dis
tricts, chiefly upon Routes 21, 23, and 30 : in addition to these, some of the
beauties of Norway and Sweden have been illustrated of late years by the
pencil and pen of several tourists. Everything requisite for sketching should
be taken from England, as the materials to be obtained in Norway for the
purpose are very inferior. Artists would do well to provide themselves with
a pair of saddle bags, as horses and guides may be procured throughout the
country, and the wildest parts thus be easily visited. Paper and sketches
should be secured in a bag of fustian mackintosh (which is very strong), and,
if securely tied at the mouth, may be immersed in water without its pene
trating. Winsor and Newton's moist water-colours, and their folding seat
and easel, will be found particularly convenient.
Norway.
SCENERY AND SKETCHING.
129
Landscape. Except a few churches, and some of the peasants' houses in

the wildest parts, there are few picturesque buildings in Norway, but the
beauties of nature are of the highest order. The atmospheric effects in early
morning and evening are of wondrous beauty, and peculiar to the North. The
depth and gorgeousness of colour during the long twilight which follows the
setting of the sun are marvellously fine, and give a poetry and charm of the
most sublime character. The valleys are usually narrow, very deep, and of
great extent, with a lake or river in the bottom. Waterfalls are innumerable,
and the most picturesque are the smaller ones, which are found at the head
and upon the sides of almost all the valleys. The great waterfalls are the
Sarp-Fos at Sarpsborg, Route 36 ; the Larbro Fos, near Kongsberg, and
the Riukan Fos, Route 23; and the Voring Fos, and Odtud Fos upon the
Hardanger Fjord, Route 21. At the upper parts of the fjords upon the W.
coast, the scenery is of Alpine character, and perfectly unique ; the fjords in
many places becoming very narrow, and winding in amongst the mountainsj
which rise thousands of feet perpendicularly from the water. The most pic
turesque forms of mountains are those about Molde, Route 24 ; and between
Christiansand and Stavanger, upon the same Route, there is a great variety of
foliage and much grandeur in the masses of rock and forms of the mountains
which there dip into the sea.
Marine. The whole coast from the mouth of the Christiania Fjord to the
N. Cape, Route 24, is rocky and mountainous, and abounds in grand subjects.
Neither the towns nor craft are picturesque, but the situation of the former is'
eminently so in many cases. During summer there is always more fishing and
bustle going on upon the S. and S.W. coast than further N., and, upon the
whole, it is perhaps the best part of Norway for marine sketching. The belt
of islands which runs all up the W. coast abounds in picturesque huts in
habited by the fishermen.
Figwres and Interiors. There is a good deal of costume still existing in
Norway, and particularly amongst the women. It is mostly to be found in
the Bergen, Hardanger, and Tellemarken districts, upon Routes 21 and 23.
Some of the old men are highly picturesque ; their long white hair flowing
down each side of the face, and surmounted by a faded red worsted cap, shirt
collar open, and jacket and waistcoat ornamented with large silver buttons.
In the upper parts of the Hardanger, and other fjords upon the W. coast,
almost each parish has its own costume. The people are very civil, and easily
persuaded to don their gala dresses for the gratification of strangers. Some of
the best interiors are also in the Tellemarken and Bergen districts. These are
far more picturesque than cleanly. In many cases the principal room is of a
rich dark brown, from the wood smoke, and this apartment contains all the
family and most of their propertythis is particularly the case amongst the
fishermen upon the W. coast at a distance from the towns, as well as amongst
the poor in Tellemarken.
Cattle. Norway abounds in admirable subjects of this class. Each farm
130
ANGLTNG.
Norway.
having its sceter or mountain pasture, all the spare stock is sent up there
during the summer months. A small hut is erected, where the girls in charge
of the stock sleep and carry on the dairy operations. When bears are known
to be in the neighbourhood, the cattle are driven in at night, and fires lighted
for their protection. Nothing can be more picturesque than the subjects at
times found at these chalets, when groups of every description of cattle, horses,
goats, dogs, &c. , and of all ages, are grouped around amidst the rocks.
Norway is particularly rich in subjects of winter scenery. At that season
all the cattle have been driven in from the hills ; the sledge and snow-skates
(skier) are in request, and all is life and animation during the short period of
daylight.
9. AHGLINO.
The innumerable lakes and rivers in Norway, almost all of which teem with
fish, render it the most attractive country in Europe for a fishing tour. Trout
are abundant, and grayling, even in the lakes and streams upon the great
mountain plateau, or fields, and salmon in every river where they can get up
from the sea. Char, pike, and a variety of other fish are met with in most
of the lakes. In the Miiisen Lake, near Christiania, Route 26, it is said
there are upwards of 20 different varieties of fish. But there is no doubt that
Balmon-fishing in Norway has deteriorated of late years, and is now very diffi
cult to procure. The fish themselves have diminished in numbers from the
more skilful modes of netting employed by the natives, and from the use of the
leister, which, though contrary to law, is much practised in some rivers.
English anglers, too, have become more numerous, and all the first-rate waters
are rented by them upon regular agreements for a term of years, while the
natives themselves have learnt to flog the waters with bad imitations of English
flies. Still, no doubt, tolerable salmon-fishing may yet be obtained, but
not by the mere casual traveller, nor unless it is made a special object. That
splendid fishing was to be had there is proved by the published accounts of
numerous English gentlemen. Mr. Belton, in his admirable book ( ' ' Two
Summers in Norway"), first made known the salmon-fishing to be had in the
Namsen and other streams ; and to his experience we are indebted for some of
the following observations.
Salmon.The tumultuous rapidity of the Norwegian rivers renders them
admirably suited for salmon. The two most celebrated streams are the Alten
and the Namsen, N. of Trondhjem (see Route 24). The Gtuul, Route 26,
towards Trondhjem ; the Siva, which falls into the upper part of the Lange
Fjord, Route 30 ; the Rauma, upon the same Route ; and the Laaven, near
Laurvig, Route 24, are also well spoken of. The great Tana River, to the E.
of the North Cape (see Route 24), is said to abound in salmon, but there is no
doubt that the take of salmon by nets there has decreased of late years. Many
ascribe this decrease to the great number of seals which abound on the shallow
Norway.
ANGLING.
131
banks at the mouth of this river, and which no doubt intercept many of the fish
on their passage to fresh water. Still, however, it is a magnificent river, and
very heavy fish are to be taken in it. Any one intending to try it must be
prepared for a rough life. There is no habitable house on the whole length of
the river, and a tent and every necessary for camping out must be taken.
Musquitoes swarm. If Tana should turn out a failure, the Pasvig and Niden,
in East Finmark, might be tried. The fortnightly steamer from Hammerfest
to Vadso calls at Tana mouth, and also near the mouths of the Pasvig and
Niden. None of these three rivers would fish before the beginning of July.
We have before stated that salmon are found in all the rivers upon the coast
where they can get up, but as most of the streams S. of the Kauma down to
the Laaven are comparatively short, and remain in a more or less turbid state
till towards the end of summer, such fishing cannot be obtained in them as in
the larger streams ; at the same time, those who have not been spoiled by the
splendid sport offered by the latter, when the waters are in good order, will
find ample occupation in the smaller streams, some of which, no doubt, are
still unknown to anglers. This is particularly the case with those rivers
which fall into the Sogne, Hardanger, and other fjords upon the W. coast,
in the midst of some of the grandest scenery in the country, and where ex
cellent general shooting may likewise be had.
The great point upon which the success of a fishing expedition to Norway
depends, is to hit the proper time for it ; to be neither too early nor too late.
The fishing season is short, and always later towards the N. All the streams
flow from the great range of mountains running from N. to S. There are
always two floods every year ; the first in the early part of the summer, caused
by the melting of the snow in the valleys, &c. , and the second arising from the
breaking up of the ice in the mountain lakes, at a later period ; before the
latter has subsided, few if any good fish will be found in the rivers. Taking
the Alten as the most northern, great salmon stream on the W. coast, the
mountain flood there does not subside before the beginning of July ; and, upon
the average, the best season for that river is from the middle of July to the
end of August. Further S. the season is usually a month, or fortnight earlier,
but, throughout Norway, July and August may be considered the best months
for salmon-fishing. The abundance of salmon in the great Norwegian streams
may be judged of by the fact, that an English gentleman, in the season of
1847, killed 2500 lbs. weight in the Alten in 14 days, his fish averaging from
15 to 35 lbs. each. This is by no means a singular instance, many gentlemen
having met with equal success, particularly in the Namsen. Evening and
early morning will be found the best times for fishing during the height of the
season.
Trout. The salmon-fishing in Norway has such attractions for the angler,
that all the smaller fry have been comparatively neglected, few of the streams
and lakes of the interior having been tried, except hastily, by those en route
to or from the coast. The smaller streams and lakes will usually be found to
132
ANGLING. FISHING TACKLE.
Norway.
contain a greater abundance of fish, and in better condition, tban the larger
waters. The best fish will invariably be found near the bottom of falls, and
especially those above the larger lakes. Thus, at the Hunderfos, above Lillehammer, Route 26, trout (almo ferox) have been caught of 30 lbs. weight.
The best mode of killing trout there is with an artificial minnow. Even upon
the Dovre, and other great fjelds, the trout run to 6 lbs.
The waters of the higher mountains of Central Norway should be avoided
until the summer is well advanced. In the 8. and lower parts of the country,
the season for trout-fishing may be considered as commencing about the middle
of June, and ending with September.
Flies, Rods, &c. Only inferior tackle is to be obtained in Norway ; it should
therefore be taken from England, and be of the very best quality. The
salmon killed are so large, in some cases being 40 lbs. weight and upwards,
that the strongest lines must be used. No exact directions for flies can be
given : salmon take most unaccountable flies of all sorts and sizes, and of all
colours. A general rule may be, to fish with large bright flies, when the water
is heavy, and to diminish in size as the water falls, till, late in the season,
small flies on single gut are the only ones which salmon will look at. The
fishing-tackle makers in London know the style of flies and patterns generally
used.
A well-oiled silk line, not less than 120 yards long for the large rivers, will
be found preferable to the patent mixture of horse-hair and silk. The casting
line should be of the strongest treble gut, the reel of ample dimensions and
single action, and the gaff of wide curve and firm build. The rods should
comprise two for salmon, a stout one not less than 18 feet long, and a second
a foot shorter, and lighter, with an extra small joint and spare tops to each of
them.
For trout flies, decided colours, either gay or dark, are also the best ; and a
great variety of colours is not so important as a good assortment of different
sizes. Small Irish sea-trout flies kill well, and in the evening or at night
white and brown moths. For char, the common red palmer is recom
mended.
Most of the rivers belong to small proprietors located along their banks.
Formerly a small gratuity of ten dollars secured the exclusive right of fishing,
but now, owing to the competition that has arisen, and from the avidity shown
by some of our English fishermen, the prices have risen greatly ; still there are
probably rivers at the heads of some of the long-unfrequented fjords, which
have not been explored and tried. It is customary to give to the proprietors
such fish as are not required by the angler for his own use.
An experienced man has been directed by the Norwegian Government to
visit all the rivers, and, where feasible, institute artificial breeding of salmon.
With what success, in a country where running streams are frozen to the
bottom for some months in each year, remains to be seen. Besides this, the
Storthing passed a law in 1857, prohibiting the use of nets at the mouths of
Norway.
SHOOTING.
133
salmon rivers. These measures may, perhaps, have some effect in arresting
the sensible decrease that has been perceived in the numbers of the fish taken
of late years.
10. SHOOTINO.
Norway formerly abounded in game and wild beasts ; both have somewhat
decreased as the population has advanced, but from the mountainous nature of
the country it is always likely to remain one of the best in Europe for wild
shooting. Prior to 1845 game was unprotected, and therefore destroyed at all
seasons ; but in the Storthing of that year a law was passed for its protection,
which has proved very beneficial. It is somewhat the fashion to complain of
the general scarcity of all descriptions of game in Scandinavia, but, comparing
different accounts, and the supply brought into the markets, there is little
doubt that game is far more abundant there than is generally imagined.
Reindeer are met with in all the highest parts of the great mountain range
N. of the Fille Fjeld, Route 21, up to the N. Cape. Red deer are found in
the islands off the coast between Bergen and Trondhjem, and particularly in
the large island of Hitteroen, near the latter city, Route 26. Elk are rare,
but of late years have been met with as low down as Toten and Eidsvold, the
Northern Terminus of the Railway, but Osterdalen, Route 31, is still their
favourite resort. Of wild beasts, bears and wolves are killed in all parts of
Norway, and occasionally the lynx, and wolverine or glutton.
Hares are plentiful. All up the W. coast wild fowl of every description
abound, and, from being so little disturbed, are easy to get at. N. of
Trondhjem they are swarming. In July and August numbers of woodcocks
are found about the great fjords upon the W. coast. Snipe also abound in low
and swampy places. Besides these and Plover, there are of winged game the
Capercailie (Tiur) ; Blackcock (Urhane) ; Hazel-hen (Iljerpe) ; Ptarmigan
(Fjeld-ryper), only found high up on the mountains ; and Wood grouse (Sk-ovHyper). These last afford the best sport. They are generally to be found in
dwarf willow, or alder scrub. It is useless to attempt to shoot them without
dogs ; no heavy bag can be made with beaters alone. A hardy setter is, per
haps, the best for ryper-shooting. An Irish water spaniel, perhaps, for duck,
and other general shooting. Before the middle of August ryper are so small
and lie so close as to afford no sport. By the middle of September, however,
they are wild enough. Partridges are rare, and exist only in the S., near
Christiania. The capercailie is found in all the great pine forests which
abound in Norway, the buds of that tree being his favourite food. The black
cock and hazel-hen frequent the numberless valleys where underwood and
shrub abound ; and ptarmigan keep to the plateau of the great mountain
range, particularly those N. of Trondhjem. Amongst the best places to select
for general shooting (including bears) are the Fille Fjeld, and the upper parts
of the Sogne Fjord, and Hardanger Fjord, Route 21 ; Romsdalen, Route 30 ;
134
SHOOTING.
Noncay.
the Dovre Fjeld, Route 26 ; the mountains upon the Swedish frontier, Route
33 ; and on many of the islands along the coast. Tolerable quarters may be
obtained at most of these places. The stations upon the Fills Fjeld and
Dovre Fjeld are amongst the best in Norway.
Those who make shooting a principal object of their tour, must take dogs
with them, if they wish to hare any sport. The gun should be a double
barrel of large bore ; one which can be depended upon for ball to the distance
of 100 yards. Except the natives, those who have shot the most game and
wild beasts in Norway and Sweden have rarely used a rifle. A smooth bore is
quite as effective for a bear at close quarters as a rifle. Shot may be bought
in the large towns ; all other ammunition should be brought from England. It
is dangerous work to attack a bear single-handed for fear of only wounding
him, when he will generally charge ; in that case the hunter's life often
depends upon his companion's shot, or his 6wn nerve in not resisting when the
bear comes in. The best chance of safety is then to lie down, with the face to
the ground, and breathe as little as possible. (Lloyd's Field Sports of the N.
Europe, vol. i. p. 196.) Numerous instances are recorded where hunters
have saved themselves by adopting that plan in preference to using the butt
end of the gun, or the hunting knife, against so formidable an assailant at
close quarters.
The favourite haunts of the bear in summer are in the thickly-wooded
mountain valleys and slopes of the mountains, and particularly in the
neighbourhood of the sceters, or mountain pastures, where the cattle are
grazed.
Should a bear have killed a cow in the neighbourhood, and news of it be
brought within a day or so afterwards, the most likely method of getting a
shot is for the sportsman to watch the carcase of the cow from some place of
concealment close by, till the bear returns to gorge himself upon it a second
time, which he seldom fails to do, if undisturbed.
The usual native mode of killing bears is to fix three or four guns with the
muzzles pointing at different angles across the carcase of a cow that has been
killed, tying strings at one end to the triggers, and at the other to the cow ; so
that they explode, when the bear returns, and begins to tug at the carcase
again, in which case some of the balls can scarcely fail to kill, or severely
wound him. A good bear skin may be bought sometimes at some of the
skyds-stations for 10 or 15 dollars.
Meat being so rarely met with at the country stations, and game as seldom,
although to be found near most places, a tourist's comfort in the commissariat
department depends very much on the produce of his gun. Beef stewed to a
jelly and poured into the windpipes of oxen becomes quite hard, and never
turns mouldy ; an inch of this put into a small camp-kettle with game or wild
fowl, and vegetables of any kind, makes an admirable dish. Good food is
essential to health in shooting expeditions, and great care should be taken to
avoid sleeping in the open air, which is most dangerous in the north.
Norway.
GAME LAWS.
135
The Ordinance of the Storthing passed for the preservation of game, &c, is
dated 4th August, 1845. The following abstract of it may be useful to sports
men.
Premiums for Destruction of Birds and Beasts of Prey. Sections 1 and
2. For every bear, wolf, tiger-cat, lynx, glutton, or wolverine, of whatever
age, 3 sp. ds. ; for eagles, 60 sks. ; mountain owls, 24 sks. ; hawks, 24 sks.
Skins of beasts and birds slain to be produced to Foged of district, or his
deputy, who is to mark same and give a certificate for the premium.
The following tables show the number of each that have been killed within
the last series of years, viz. :
1846
1847
1848
1849
1850
1851
1852
1853
1854
1855
Bears.
Wolves.
219
270
264
325
246
276
202
142
198
205
328
259
247
197
191
281
236
191
169
235
Lynxes. Gluttons.
104
116
144
110
118
101
118
116
94
125
81
88
51
96
39
50
45
51
35
72
Eagles.
1055
2594
2498
2142
2426
4620
3415
4603
3379
2559
Besides about 700 or 800 mountain owls, and the same number of hawks de
stroyed annually.
Game Laws.Sect. 3. Elks and stags not to be killed except between 1st
August and 1st November, and then only by the proprietor of the ground. One
elk and 2 stags only to be killed during that time upon each separate property.
But these restrictions as to time and number, not to apply to islands which are
private - property, or those kept within walled parks. Sect. 4. Wild reindeer
not to be killed between 1st April and 1st August. Sect. 5. No beavers to be
killed for 10 years after 4th August, 1845, but it is feared that this law has
come too late to prevent their total extinction. Sect. 6. Hares not to be killed
between 1st June and 15th August. Owners of land alone entitled to kill
them during rest of the year. Sect. 7. Capercailie, blackcock, and hazel-hens
not to be killed between 1st June and 15th August ; partridges between 1st
December and 1st September.
No water-fowl used as food (birds of passage excepted) may be killed be
tween 1st April and 15th July, or deprived of their eggs after 1st of June ;
but the provinces of Nordland and Finmark are excepted from this enactment
as to water-fowl and their eggs.
Sect. 8.Occupiers entitled, upon their own land, to kill stags which injure
crops, &c. Sect. 9, in addition to the owner's remedy for trespass, renders the
136
succinct account of noeway.
Norway.
offender liable to the following penalties for game killed contrary to the above
enactments. Elks, 40 sp. ds. ; stags and beavers, 20 sps. ; wild reindeer, 10
sps.; hares, 2 sps. ; and other game, 1 sp. Unlawfully depriving nest of
eggs, 60 sks. Sect. 10. Suits for penalties under last section to be settled in
police courts. When information is lodged, the officer is to inform the accused
of the amount of the penalty and inquire if he will pay it. If he agrees to do
so and fails in his promise, it may be levied upon him by an execution.
Should he deny the offence, then the officer will proceed to investigate the
charge and decide upon it.
Fines levied to be divided between the informer and poor of district.
Penalties to be without prejudice, and in addition to any reparation reserved
to proprietors by usual course of law, for an infringement of their rights in
hunting, fishing, or preserves.
Sect. 11 repeals the game laws of 1733 and 1818 as to stags.
Lemmings (Georychus lemmus) occasionally visit Norway in great numbers.
They are nearly as large as a water rat, of a tawny colour, with black stripes
over the withers. Thgy are much larger than the Siberian ones, which are
about the size of a field mouse. They appear in Norway about once in every
four years ; impelled probably by a too great increase of numbers to leave
the mountains they inhabit, and not, as many Norwegians are inclined to
believe, by an instinct of the approaching winter being more than usually
severe. They move from east to west in as straight a line as possible, swim
ming large rivers, and wide fjords, wherever they come upon them, till they
reach the islands on the seaboard of the Atlantic. Occasionally, if they have
been overtaken by a storm, great numbers are found floating on the surface
of the water, drowned. They never appear to return eastwards. The
probable explanation of this is, that most of them, are devoured by the owls
and hawks, which follow them. They move chiefly at night, devouring most
of the herbage, or corn it may be, as they pass. Formerly the Norwegians
believed them to have fallen from the clouds, and so great was the mischief
caused by them, that they were solemnly exorcised by the priests.
11. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF NORWAY.
Sunk into a province of Denmark for so many centuries, Norway, upon
recovering her independence, is left without a remnant of the conquests made
by her in the days of her glory. Her possessions are confined to the W. part
of the great Scandinavian peninsula, including Norwegian Lapland and the
islands off the W. coast, the most important of which are the Loffodens, N. of
the arctic circle. The length of the Norwegian territory, from the most
southern point at the Naze to the N. Cape, is upwards of 1100 English miles.
Its breadth varies considerably, being about 40 miles at the narrowest part in
the N. and 260 at the widest portion in the S. Its total area in square miles
is 121,725.
Norway.
GEOLOGY.
137
The great chain of the Kib'len mountains commences in the extreme N. of

Lapland, and, in conjunction with others, runs through the whole length of the
peninsula. All the country is mountainous, and abounds in lakes, rivers,
and forests. The leading features in Norwegian scenery are the fjelds, fjords,
and valleys.
The Fields, or Fjelds, are the plateaux of those different ranges of mountains,
such as the Dovre Fjeld, the Hardanger Fjeld, &c, which form part of the
great chain from N. to S. above mentioned. These fjelds or plateaux are of
vast extent, and from them the highest summits in Norway rise to about
8000 feet. On the E. side of this great chain the descent is gradual. On the
W. abrupt and precipitous.
The Fiords, or Fjords, are arms of the sea with which the whole coast is
indented, and particularly the W. The Christiania Fjord is the largest in the
S. of Norway. In the W. the Hardanger and the Sogne Fjords are the most
extensive ; the latter runs upwards of 100 Eng. miles from the coast into
the mountains. Most of these fjords upon the W. coast have several branches,
and at the head of each of them there is generally a stream where salmon will
be found wherever they can get up. It is upon the upper parts of the fjords
on the W. coast, that the most grand as well as the most picturesque scenery
in Norway exists. In many places the mountains rise perpendicularly from
the water to a vast height.
The Valleys (Dalene). Throughout the greater portion of that chain of
mountains before mentioned there are minor lateral ranges branching off, and
which form deep and, for the most part, narrow valleys between them. Each
has its stream and lakes. Some of these valleys are of great length, extending
upwards of 100 Eng. m., and containing numerous farms. Indeed, all the
best land in Norway is to be found in her valleys. It is the lower part of
these valleys which, upon the W. coast, form the fjords ; they are never frozen
near the sea, and make some of the finest harbours in the world. The lakes
and streams in Norway are innumerable, and all abound with trout. The
largest lake is the Miosen, between Christiania and Trondhjem. In the N.
the principal rivers are the Tana, the Alten, and the Namsen ; and in the S,
the Glommen, the Lauven, and the Drammen. Waterfalls are very numerous,
and many of them are upon a grand scale.
Geology. The whole Scandinavian peninsula is highly interesting to the
geologist and mineralogist. Norway and Lapland are chiefly composed of
primitive and transition rocks. Granite is rare, the prevailing rock being
gneiss, which sometimes alternates with granite. Mica slate also abounds, and
is associated with the gneiss ; while in beds subordinate to both are limestone,
quartz, and hornblende. The plateaux of the mountains are often covered
with blocks of a conglomerate rock, in which pebbles of quartz, feldspar, &c. ,
are imbedded, and which, being smooth and rounded, have evidently been
during a remote, but lengthened period, subject to violent friction. The
southern part of Norway has frequently experienced earthquakes, and numerous
138
MINERALOGY.CLIMATE.
Norway.
instances exist, in various parts of the country, which prove that it has been
upheaved by volcanic action.
Mineralogy. The Norwegian mountains appear to be rich in minerals, of
which the chief are iron, copper, silver, nickel, and cobalt.
Climate. The climate of Norway is healthy, and the weather (except on
the W. coast) is generalljmore steady than in England, being either good or
bad for a considerable period without any change. A country, however,
ranging over upwards of 13 degrees of latitude, and 32 degrees of longitude,
must present some varieties of climate, although it is not so much to the
difference of geographical position that these modifications are to be ascribed
as to other operating causes, such as vicinity to the ocean, height above the
level of the sea, peculiarly sheltered situations, and a variety of other causes,
which in the same latitude frequently occasion considerable difference in
temperature.
In many of the fjords, the waves of the ocean literally lave the foundations
of the houses ; whilst the inhabitants of the interior frequently locate them
selves at a height of 3000 feet above the level of the sea. Rbraas parish, for
instance, ' in which the town and copper mines of that name are situated,
stands at an elevation of 3000 feet, and several inhabited valleys branching
laterally from the great Akers-huus valley rise to the height of 1500 to 2000 feet.
In Norway one of the most active causes in moderating or increasing the
temperature of various localities is the relation to the sea-coast ; the nearer to
this, the more marked are the changes which the same altitude exhibits. In
several parishes in the valleys stretching laterally from the coast, this may be
distinctly perceived by merely attending to the state of the crops, which are
either advanced or retarded in proportion to the height at which the fields are
situated. Other causes tend likewise to operate favourably or unfavourably to
vegetable life ; among these may be noticed the vicinity of some elevated range
of rocks, which, by protecting the spot from keen northern winds, exempts it
from sudden transitions of heat and cold, which other less-favoured localities
are greatly exposed to. Even an insignificant mountain stream, fed by the
thawing of the snow as it rolls from crag to crag, until it winds its course
through the level meadow land below, will create a cold current of air, which,
slight as it may appear, is sufficient to check vegetation for some space around
it, while the adjoining fields are flourishing in vegetable richness.
A wooded district enjoys less of the warmth of the sun, consequently is
generally more humid ; in these cases a judicious clearance will tend to increase
the temperature, and check the severity of the frequent spring frosts which
injure the corn in the eastern valleys of Norway. In other places, where the
forests have served as a protection against cold and destructive winds, to which
the -land may from its peculiar local circumstances be exposed, much injury
has been done by their indiscriminate clearance ; and it is a well-known fact,
that many farms, which formerly afforded remunerating crops, have been
rendered unproductive solely from this cause.
Norway.
POPULATION.
139
Norway, on the whole, enjoys the mildest climate of any region so remote
from the equator. In Iceland the limit of snow in latitude 69 is 2900 feet ;
on the east coast of Greenland it descends to the water's edge and forms ice
bergs ; in the Scandinavian sea, ice is first formed in lat. 80, whilst around
the North Cape, in lat. 71 11', and at the head of the deepest fjords, the sea
never freezes.
*
In Siberia, every trace of agriculture ceases at 60 degrees, whereas at Alten,
10 degrees farther north, potatoes, rye, and barley sometimes ripen. There
were samples of the latter from Alten in the Great Exhibition in Paris in
1855.
Pinewood in the south of Norway reaches about 3000 feet above the level of
the sea ; further to the north its highest limit sinks still lower. The limit of
birch in the south of Norway is about 3300 feet. Above this level, and
below the perpetual snow, there are capital grass runs in summer of great
extent.
The Population taken by the census in 1845 was about 1,400,000 souls.
In 1855 about 1,500,000, whilst in 1835 it was only 1,194,000. By the
census of 1835 the population of Christiania was 21,757 ; by that of 1845 it
was 30,931 ; in 1855 it had increased to 40,000, an increase at the rate of
nearly 1000 per annum in the last 20 years. At the census taken immediately
after the separation from Denmark the population did not exceed 10,000;
and the total population of the country was then 514,530 less than in 1845.
The population in 1855 was divided into the following classes, viz. :
Heads of Families.
Families.
Proprietors of land
91,470
346,832
Farmers renting land
21,734
82,659
Feudal tenants
87,062
255,332
Squatters or Clearers
2,336
7,318
Farm Servants
36,543
27,492
Traders
4,940
14,291
Proprietors of works and factories ...
203
554
Artisans
21,694
43,754
Shipmasters
3,548
10,337
Seamen
14,034
20,560
Pilots
928
2,981
Day Labourers
41,963
65,247
Servants
57,644
106,037
Not belonging to any of the above classes, 121,574.
The number of Norwegian Laplanders in 1855 was 15,999, of whom 14,054
had fixed residences, and 1945 were Nomades.
The animal stock in the whole country in 1855 consisted of 154,447 horses,
949,935 oxen and cows, 1,596,199 sheep, 357,102 goats, 113,320 pigs, and
116,891 reindeer.
140
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
Norway.

The early history of Norway is enveloped in darkness. Prior to the 7th
century it rests solely on traditions, which, like all similar sources of informa
tion, are very imperfect, but still are probably founded on fact. The prevailing
tradition is, that Odin, who came over from Asia, was the founder of the
Norwegian race. The aborigines were probably a few Lapps scattered in
families all over the country, till they were driven northwards, and confined to
their present abodes by the influx of clans of the low German branch of the
great Teutonic stock. No date of the arrival of the Northmen can be fixed, nor
can it be with certainty stated whether the immigration came from the south,
or whether, having come north of the Gulf of Bothnia, either by land or round
the North Cape, it streamed southwards till stopped by the Gothic settlements,
of which Gottenburg would perhaps have been the head-quarters. To readers
of Danish, Professor Munch's great work " Det norske folks Historie," now in
course of publication at Christiania, will throw much light on this branch of
ethnology. He has compared the Latin accounts of the early inhabitants of the
north with early Icelandic sagas and indistinct native traditions, and has ex
tracted from them what appears to him to be the true history of the time,
with rare powers of criticism. It is known that tribes of heroic barbarians
inhabited the country, who divided it into several small kingdoms, and were
continually at war with each other. The first monarch, of whom we have any
authentic account, is Olaf Trastelia, who laid the foundation of a new power
in Norway about A. d. 630. The incorporation of the petty States, of which
the country then consisted, was the constant aim of his successors. (Dunham'i Hist, of Norway, &c, v. i. p. 157.) Harald the Black subjected the
southern part of Norway to his rule, and his son Harald Haarfager (the FairHaired) finally completed the conquest of the whole country in the latter part
of the 9th century. In the commencement of his career, having been told of
the charms of Gyda, daughter of the King of Hordaland, Harald sent messen
gers to her with the offer, not of his hand, but of his heart. Her proud reply
is stated to have been, that so far from being the mistress, she would not even
be the wife of a chief whose territories consisted of a few insignificant pro
vinces, and that she would never marry any one who did not hold absolute
sway over the whole country. Admiring her ambition, he vowed to the gods
that he would neither cut nor comb his hair until he had subdued all Norway,
and that he would do so or perish in the attempt. Upon the completion of
his vow the princess became his wife, according to the custom of the period
Bharing that honour with eight others.
From the completion of Harald's conquest of the country in 885, down to
about the middle of the 13th century, is comprised the glorious period of
Norwegian history. From thence to the union of Norway and Denmark, in
the latter part of the 14th century, the prosperity of the country gradually
decayed, and that union during its continuance was fatal to its regeneration.
Norway.
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
141
Sunk into a province of Denmark, the energies of the heroic Norwegian race
became palsied, and their history may be deemed a blank until their emancipa
tion from the Danish yoke in 1814.
The conquests of Harald Haarfager induced many of the petty sovereigns
whom he had subdued to emigrate, and the piratical expeditions of the seakings (or leaders) were made upon a much larger scale. The most celebrated
of these leaders was Rolf-Ganger, or Rollo, the founder of the Duchy of Nor
mandy, and ancestor of William the Conqueror. Rollo emigrated from the
neighbourhood of Aalesund, on the W. coast; see Route 24. Space will not
admit of our detailing the victorious course of the Norwegian arms in Belgium,
France, Spain, Italy, the British Islands, and elsewhere ; but one of the
most interesting facts connected with their career of conquest is their occupa
tion of Iceland, and from thence discovering North America centuries before
the time of Columbus. (See Iceland, in Route 12 ; also Dunham's History of
Norway, &c, vols. i. and ii.) It was during the latter end of the 9th cen
tury that Iceland was colonized by Norwegians, and towards the end of the
10th century that America was discovered by the descendants of those settlers.
Harald Haarfager died in 933, and his successors, during several reigns,
were princes of no great note, with the exception of his son Hako the Good,
who, brought up in England in the court of Athelstane, was the first king who
endeavoured to establish Christianity in Norway. This was in the middle of
the 10th century, but Paganism was not finally eradicated until after the 12th.
There is a curious story told in " Hako the Good's Saga," with reference to
the introduction of Christianity. The king was suspected of being a waverer
from the old religion, and his nobles insisted on hie attending a banquet held
to Odin, and drinking the horse broth in his honour, to which the king was
obliged to consent, but with very bad grace. This seems to have been the
test applied by the worshippers of Odin to all whom they suspected of Chris
tianity. And certainly there was nothing which the monks and early mission
aries to Scandinavia denounced more warmly than eating horse-flesh, as
savouring of the ancient worship. The repugnance to eating horse-flesh, still
felt by all nations of the Germanic family, perhaps has its origin from this.
In 1016 Olaf (Olave) the Second ascended the throne of Norway. He is
more usually known as Olaf the Holy, or St. Olaf. After pledging himself to
respect the rights of the native chiefs, in order to force Christianity upon his
subjects, he not only destroyed the heathen temples, but propagated the Chris
tian faith with fire and sword. Under the sacred banner of the Cross he per
petrated the most ruthless deeds of blood and plunder, until his atrocities raised
the whole country against him.
In 1028 Canute the Great landed in Norway, and was elected King ; while
Olaf, deserted by his people, retreated into Sweden. He subsequently invaded
the country with a view of recovering the throne, and a desperate battle was
fought at Stikklestad, N. of Trondhjem (see Route 24), in which he was slain,
31st August, 1030, together with most of his followers. A few years after
wards, his body having been found incorrupt, it was considered a miracle, he
142
HISTOHrCAL NOTICE.
Norway.
was declared a saint, and the corpse taken to Trondhjem and buried there. A
chapel was erected over it, which became the origin of the Cathedral. Pil
grimages were made to the shrine of St. Olaf up to the time of the Reformation.
See also Trondhjem, Route 26. Several churches in London were dedicated
to this precious saint.
Sweyn, the son of Canute, was deputed by him to the government of Nor
way, with the regal title, but upon the death of the latter, in 1035, Sweyn was
driven from the throne, and Magnus I., the illegitimate son of St. Olaf,
obtained possession of it. He died in 1047, and was succeeded by his uncle,
Harald III. , one of the greatest warriors of his age, and the founder of Osloe,
now the city of Christiania. At the instigation of Tostig, brother of Harald II.
of England, he invaded that country and plundered York, but was at length
met by the royal forces at Stamford in Lincolnshire. A sanguinary battle took
place there, 25th September, 1066, in which both Harald of Norway and the
Prince Tostig were slain, with most of their army. The son of Harald (Olaf
III. of Norway), with the whole of the Norwegian fleet, fell into the hands of
the victorious Harald of England, who generously and immediately allowed
Olaf to depart with 20 ships. Harald himself perished within 3 weeks after
wards upon the field of Hastings.
Magus III., surnamed Barfod (Bare-foot), was the successor of his father,
Olaf III., and became one of the most warlike and heroic monarchs of Nor
way. In 1098 he conquered the Isle of Man, the Shetlands, Orkneys, and
Hebrides. He afterwards invaded Ireland, where he was surprised and slain
in 1103, after a most gallant resistance.
His son, Sigurd I., surnamed Jorsalafare, i.e. Traveller to Jerusalem, is
celebrated in the annals of Norway for his pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and his
exploits during the voyage. He sailed in 1107, with a fleet of 60 ships, and
was 4 years absent. His first winter was passed in England, where he was
hospitably entertained by Henry I. Continuing his voyage, he fought several
battles afterwards with the Moors in Portugal and at sea. Landing in Sicily,
he was magnificently entertained there by Roger, the Norman sovereign of that
island. He then proceeded to Jerusalem, where the offer of his sword was
most acceptable to Baldwin. His last exploit in the Holy Land was that of
joining in the siege of Sidon, and when the city was taken half the booty
became his. He returned home by way of Constantinople and Germany. The
fame of this expedition still lives in the memory of the peasants of the Sbgne
Fjord, many of whose ancestors took part in it.
Dissension and civil war followed upon the death of Sigurd, which for a
time were checked, in 1152, by the good offices of the Papal Legate, Nicholas
Breakspear, an Englishman, who afterwards ascended the pontifical throne as
Adrian IV. He succeeded in getting a metropolitan See established at
Trondhjem, with a jurisdiction not only over Norway, but also Iceland, Green
land, the Faroe Islands, Shetlands, Orkneys, Hebrides, and Man. These two
last were called the " Syder-ber," or Southern Islands, in contradistinction to
Orkney and Shetland. This word is no doubt the origin of the name
Norway.
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
143
" Sodor." The Legate was eminently successful, during his mission in Nor
way, in reforming the clergy, as well as the customs and manners of the people.
Hako IV. made war upon Scotland for the continued possession of the He
brides, and died during the expedition in 1263. From this time commenced
the decline of the national prosperity of Norway, attributed to the continued
wars with Denmark, which thinned the population ; and also to the monopoly
of trade established by the Hanse towns, which crushed the national industry,
and shackled the trade of the country so fatally as still to have left its traces
upon the west coast.
Another fearful blow to the prosperity of Norway was the plague (called the
Black Death), which in 1349 was brought by an English ship, which had been
driven into Bergen, the crew having previously perished. In Trondhjem,
the archbishop and the whole of the chapter died, with the exception of
one canon. Solomon, bishop of Osloe, was the only bishop who survived.
Many appalling traditions relating to this scourge are yet extant in the
country. Several densely-populated valleys lost all their inhabitants ; the
domestic animals also were smitten with this plague. The peasantry, for want
of cattle and strength to labour, could not cultivate their land, and the famine
which succeeded completed what the plague had begun ; many districts became
waste, and forests sprang up, which remain to this day, where previously cul
tivated fields were to be seen. Industry, trade, and navigation were stopped,
and the country fell into decay, from which it did not recover for centuries.
Hako VI. married the daughter of Valdemar IV. of Denmark, and died in
1380, when the Norwegian crown descended to his infant son, then Olaf III.
of Denmark, from which period, down to 1814, the two countries remained
united under one sceptre. Olaf III. of Denmark and V. of Norway died
young, and was succeeded by his mother, the famous Margaret, known as "the
Semiramis of the North." Victorious over the King of Sweden, she subse
quently united that country to her dominions, and in 1397 succeeded in
obtaining the signatures of the chief nobles and prelates of the three kingdoms
to the celebrated act, known as the Union of Kalmar, the chief object of
which was, in future, to unite the three crowns on one head ; and, with that
view, it was stipulated that a perpetual peace should reign between the three
countries, the subjects of each to have equal rights at the election of their
sovereign, each kingdom to be governed by its own laws, and all to unite in
the common defence.(Geyer's Histoire de Suede, p. 84.)
From this period, and in violation of the conditions of the Union, all
places of trust, in Norway, were gradually bestowed on Danish noblemen, and
the most oppressive rights and privileges bestowed upon them at the expense of
the Norwegian nobles, who ultimately became impoverished and extinct, or
amalgamated with the peasantry. Such was the deliberate and ruthless policy
of Denmark towards this noble country for upwards of 300 years, and which
may account for the jealous watchfulness with which every true Norwegian
regards the policy of Sweden since the Union of 1814.
144
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
Norway.
The reign of Christian I. of Denmark and Norway is celebrated for his act
of plunder in mortgaging part of the Norwegian dominions, the Shetland and
Orkney Islands, for a portion of the dowry to be paid by him with his daughter,
on her marriage with James III. of Scotland ; since which time, in consequence
of the non-payment of the money, those islands have been annexed to that
country. See Route 12.
In the year 1536, during the reign of Christian III., the Reformation was
introduced into Norway, but it was some years before any considerable number
of the Norwegians embraced the new faith. In the year 1567, during the
reign of Frederick II., the Swedes made several incursions into the country,
but were eventually obliged to retire ; not, however, before they had laid in
ashes Hammer and Sarpsborg, two considerable towns.
The most popular of all the Danish monarchs who ruled Norway was Chris
tian IV. This king visited the country no less than 50 times during his reign,
and carried on several wars with the Swedes. It was during his reign that
the silver mines at Kongsberg (see Route 23) and the copper mines of Roraas
were discovered, the former in 1623, the latter in 1644 ; both these mines are
still worked, and they are the largest in Norway. This sovereign was likewise
founder of Christiania, in 1624, on the ruins of Osloe, and of Christiansand
in 1643 ; he also gave his subjects a code of laws, which are still in force.
In the reign of Frederick III., which extended from 1648 to 1670, the first
Post was established in Norway. In the year 1770, during the reign of
Christian VII., potatoes were first introduced by General Krogh, at the request
of Caroline Matilda, Queen of Denmark and Norway, sister of George III.
The only University was that of Copenhagen ; but a few of the richest
Norwegians could alone avail themselves of it for the education of their sons.
Norwegians of any influence or talent were placed in offices in Denmark, and
the policy of the Danish government was to treat Norway rather as a conquered
province than as an independent kingdom united to the Danish Crown. In
the earlier part of the present century a brighter period began to dawn.
Frederick VI. founded the University of Christiania, and there is reason to
suppose that, had Norway still remained united to Denmark, she would, under
the mild government of that monarch, have been more justly treated than at
any former period. But Russia put an end to all these prospects. On the
27th of August, 1812, the Emperor Alexander guaranteed Norway to Sweden,
in lieu of Finland, on condition that the crown prince of Sweden (Bernadotte)
would join the allied sovereigns. He accepted this arrangement, which was
confirmed by the great powers, and, after the battle of Leipsic, the crown
prince marched into Holstein with a considerable force, and compelled
Frederick VI. , under the terms of the treaty of Kiel, to cede Norway to Sweden.
Many of the Norwegians were at this time prisoners of war in England, and
had been offered their liberty upon giving their parole not to bear arms during
the continuance of the struggle their country was making. To a man they
refused these terms, and remained in prison till the war was over.
Norway.
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
145
When the treaty with Bernadotte became known, the Norwegians were justly
indignant at being thus transferred from Denmark to Sweden without their
consent, and determined to resist it and declare their independence. The
Prince Christian (afterwards the 8th king of that name in Denmark) was then
resident in and Governor- General of Norway. He convoked a national diet
which was composed of 113 representatives of all classes of the people, and
met at Eidsvold, near Christiania (see Route 26), on the 11th of April, 1814.
The constitution, as it now exists, was then prepared. On the 17th of May
following, the Prince Christian was elected king of Norway, and the diet
thenceforth took the name of Storthing. The Swedes, led by Bernadotte,
invaded Norway by way of Frederikshald, and the allies blockaded the coast.
Longer resistance became a useless waste of life and property, and accordingly,
on the 14th of August, the most favourable terms having been offered to the
Norwegians, an armistice and convention were agreed to between the bel
ligerents. Christian abdicated the throne of Norway, and Charles XIII. of
Sweden was elected in his place, as king of Norway. On the 4th of November,
1814, he accepted the constitution, on which day it is therefore dated. It
comprises 112 articles, the first of which declares, that " Norway shall be a free
State, independent, indivisible, and inalienable, united to Sweden under the
same king." On the death of Charles XIII. , in 1818, Bernadotte ascended
the throne of Norway, as Charles John XIV. Desirous of introducing several
important alterations in the institutions of the country, he is stated to have
tried every means to gain a majority in his interest in the Storthing, but in
vain ; not a single member could be found who would abuse the confidence of
his constituents. An armed demonstration was equally unavailing, and the
firm, determined patriotism of the Norwegians has enabled them to resist all
attempts which might have proved injurious to the interests of " Gamle
Norge" (Old Norway).
On the death of Bernadotte, on the 8th of March, 1844, his son, the present
king, Oscar I., was proclaimed, being then in his 45th year. Soon after his
accession, King Oscar gave the Norwegians a separate national flag, which his
father had denied them. He has also decreed that, in all Acts and public
documents relating to Norway, he shall be styled King of Norway and Sweden,
instead of Sweden and Norway, as heretofore. In August, 1847, he created
an order of merit for the Norwegians, "St. Olaf." " These judicious arrange
ments, combined with his liberal and enlightened views, his scientific acquire
ments, and untiring industry in the duties of his high office, have endeared
him to his Norwegian subjects, with whom he is most popular.
In September, 1857, King Oscar was attacked by a malady, which has in
capacitated him from holding the reins of government. His son, Prince Carl
Louis Eugdne, has been appointed Regent during his father's illness. The
prince was born on the 3rd of May, 1826. He married in 1850 the Princess
Wilhelmina of Holland, daughter of Prince William Frederic, a brother of the
present King of Holland.
H
146
GOVERNMENT.'
Norway.
13. GOVERNMENT.
Norway is an hereditary constitutional monarchy, the mutual rights of the
crown and of the people being clearly defined by the Constitution of 1814,
which was subsequently guaranteed by the allied powers.
For particulars of the Royal Family, see Sweden.
The Storthing is elected and assembled every three years ; the duration of
their sittings is three months, or until the whole of the business before them
be despatched ; the king, however, has the power to dissolve it at the expira
tion of the three months. Each Storthing settles the taxes for the ensuing
3 years, enacts, repeals, or alters the laws, grants the sums which have been
fixed for the different branches of expenditure, revises the pay and pension
lists, and makes such alterations as it deems proper in any provisional grants
made by the king during the recess. It also appoints auditors to examine all
the government accounts. The minutes of the public departments, as well as
copies of all treaties, are laid before it. The Storthing impeaches, and tries
before a division of its own body, ministers of state, judges, and also its own
members. Besides these important controlling powers, secured to it by the
constitution, sworn to by the representatives of the nation at Eidsvold on the
17th of May, and accepted by the king the 4th November, 1814, the Storthing
receives the oaths of the king on coming of age or ascending the throne ; and
in case of a failure of the royal line, it can, in conjunction with Sweden,
elect a new dynasty.
The first step taken by the Storthing, after it has been duly constituted, is
to elect the Lagthing, or Upper House. This is done by choosing from among
the members of the entire body one-fourth of their number ; the functions of
this section are deliberative, and judicial in cases of impeachment ; the other
three-fourths constitute the Odelsthing, or Common House ; all enactments
must be initiated in this section. The initiative of laws is not vested in
Government alone, but any member of the Storthing can propose a law. After
a bill has been passed in the Odelsthing, it is sent to the Lagthing, where it is
deliberated upon, passed, rejected, or sent back with amendments to the
Odelsthing ; after being agreed to, it requires the sanction of the king before
it can become a law. But if a bill passes through both divisions in 3 suc
cessive Storthings, on the third occasion it becomes the law of the land without
the royal assent. The law for the abolition of hereditary nobility was passed
by the exercise of this right in 1821.
Every native Norwegian of 25 years of age, who has been owner for 5 years,
or who has a lease of at least 5 years of a farm, paying tax, or who is a
burgess of any town, or possesses there a house or land to the value4of 150
sp. d. (about 302. ), is entitled to vote in elections ; but, to be elected, he must
be 30 years of age, and, if a foreigner, he must have resided 10 years in
Norway. The country is divided into elective districts, corresponding to our
Norway.
RELIGION.
147
counties, and into sub-districts like our parishes. Each town having 150
voters makes a sub-district, but if the number be under 150 it is joined to
the next town. When the period arrives the voters proceed to choose their
electors, in such proportion that in towns 1 is chosen from every 40 voters,
and in the country 1 from every 100 ; if the sub-district contains a smaller
number than a hundred, they elect 1 ; from 100 to 200 voters elect 2 ; from
200 to 500 voters 3, and so on. After these electors are chosen, they assemble
and elect from among themselves, or from among any other qualified voters in
the district, their representative in the Storthing. The greatest number of
members any county or town can send to the Storthing is 4. The Storthing
meets on the first week-day in February, every third year. All the meetings
of the ordinary Storthings take place suo jure, by the terms of the constitution,
and not under any writ or proclamation from the king. An extraordinary
Storthing, consisting of the members of the previous Storthing, may be con
vened by royal authority, but it can only pass interim Acts until the next
ordinary Storthing. The election and meeting of the regular body cannot be
postponed or controlled in any way by the executive power, and do not depend
on its co-operation. The ministers of state are not allowed to sit in the
Storthing ; it was feared that they might exercise too much control over the
members. But considerable practical inconvenience has been found to result
from their exclusion, and it has been proposed more than onee to rescind this
clause of the constitution. The last meeting was in 1857.
The Religion of Norway is Episcopal Lutheran : it remains in exactly the
same state as that in which it was originally moulded after the subversion of
Roman Catholicism, and there are but few individuals who hold any other
creed. In fact, until very lately, no places of worship belonging to other
creeds were permitted to exist. But in the Storthing of 1 845 an act of general
toleration was passed, which gave religious liberty to all Christians.' In the
Storthing of 1851 another act admitted Jews to the country on liberal con
ditions of equality with Christians. There is now a Roman Catholic con
gregation at Christiania, and another at Alten in Finmark, but, as far as is
known, they have made few proselytes. Mormons are not allowed to . remain
in the country : most of those who belonged to this sect have emigrated to
America.
The clergy, speaking generally, are a highly-educated class of men, most of
them being acquainted with the literature of Europe, and familiar with the
standard works in the French and German languages, and with those of
England ; most of the clergy can converse in Latin. Taking into account the
value of money in the country, their church incomes are good, the average of
the livings being 200Z. per annum. While the Roman Catholic faith prevailed
in NoHtray, there, as elsewhere, a vast portion of the land was in the hands of
the clergy, and, although despoiled of a good deal at the Reformation, the
greater portion remained at the time the constitution was established, in 1814.
One of the first acts of the Storthing was, therefore, to pass a law that all
H 2
148
PUBLIC INSTRUCTION. JUSTICE.
Norway.
church lands, not glebe, should be sold, and the produce applied to educational
purposes. The fund thus raised amounted to 600,000Z. or 700,000/.
Norway is divided into 5 bishopricks and 336 parishes, some of which are
yery extensive. The performance of public worship is essentially ceremonial,
as much so almost as the Roman Catholic. There are crucifixes, paintings,
sculptures, and votive offerings in the churches, but no act of adoration is ever
performed to any of these. There is much monotonous chanting of psalms in
the service.
The patronage is in the Crown, the Minister for Ecclesiastical Affairs, and
the Norwegian Council of State. They select 3 candidates, whose names are
placed first on the list, which is laid before the king. He usually, but not
invariably, presents one of the three thus recommended to the vacant living.
Public Instruction. Schoolmasters are appointed to every parish, and paid
partly by a rate upon the householders, in addition to a small contribution
from the scholars. The instruction in these schools is usually confined to
reading, writing, arithmetic, and singing. Considerable efforts are made by
the clergy to promote education amongst the lower classes, and it is rare to
find any young person in Norway who cannot at least read and write. Great
importance is attached to the ceremony of confirmation in Norway, prior to
which the applicants undergo a long and careful course of religious instruction,
and are subject to rigid examinations, both public and private, by the clergy
of their respective parishes. In the towns there are schools of a very superior
description. Sunday schools have been extensively established ; and the
Society of Public Good maintains a public library in most parts of the king
dom. The only University is at Christiania, established by the Danes in 1811.
Justice. A court of mutual agreement exists in each parish, the arbitrators
being chosen by the householders every three years. For legal purposes ^Nor
way is divided into 4 Stiffs and 64 Sorenscriveries. In each of the latter a
law court sits once a quarter, where the Sorenscriver presides ; he is assisted
by 3 Lauyretsmcend, but who, practically, are merely considered judicial wit
nesses. From these courts an appeal lies to the Stifts-ret, which sits in the
chief town of each Stift, and is composed of three judges, with assessors.
And from the Stifts-ret a final appeal lies to the Hoieste-ret in Christiania,
which is composed of a president and 8 assessors. The judges are responsible
in damages for their decisions. Capital punishment is rarely put in force.
When it is, it is performed by beheading with a sword.
Great efforts are being made by the Norwegian Government to improve the
criminal law, and with that object the Storthing in 1845 made a grant to
enable the Government to send commissioners to England and the United
States, for the purpose of inquiring into the system of trial by jury ; and in
1857 they passed an act for the introduction of the system into Norway : the
act, however, was negatived by the king's veto. As regards the transfer of
real property in Norway, it is, perhaps, more simple, secure, and inexpensive
than in any other country in Europe.
Norway.
ARMY.
149
NAVY. REVENUE.
The Press is perfectly free in Norway, all being at liberty to print and pub
lish what they please, but subject to responsibility for what they do publish.
Newspapers are numerous and free from tax.
The Army comprises about 23,000 men, of which 2000 are gevorben
(armed), and perform garrison duty ; 10,000 are troops of the line, who are
drawn in their several districts, and bound to serve five years ; 9000 form the
Landvoern, which is composed of men from the line, who, after having com
pleted their period of duty in that service, are attached to the Landvcern for
10 years, making the term of service in all 15 years ; and about 2000 are
engineers, staff and garrison officers, and military servants. The artillery
consists of 5 battalions, and the cavalry of 11 squadrons. The troops of the
line are exercised in companies every summer for six weeks in their own dis
tricts, those of the Landvcern for eight days. The garrison towns are Christiania, Frederikstad, Christiansand, Bergen, and Trondhjem. All officers
must be educated at the Military Academy in Christiania, and they undergo
rather a strict examination previous to receiving their commission. They
usually reside in their several districts, and the principal part of their emolu
ment consists in the use of a house and farm.
The Navy.In future it is intended only to build steamers and gun-boats.
At present the Norwegian navy consists of 3 frigates, 5 corvettes, 125 gun
boats, 5 steamers ; in all 138 craft of all kinds, carrying 450 guns. 46,000
sailors are enrolled. A part of these are men in the merchant service, and a
part are the fishermen on the coast ; they are liable to serve whenever called
upon. The three naval depfits are Horten, Fredericksvcern, and Trondhjem.
At Horten large sums are expended in the construction of works connected
with the building and repair of vessels, and also for the manufacture of marine
engines.
The Norwegian Revenue for the three years from 1857 to 1860 is estimated
by the Government at the sum of 4,631,000 sp., about 1,000,000., viz.
sp.
Customs
2,600,000
Excise on brandy
......
750,000
Kongsberg Mines
......
50,000
Stamps
85,000
Post
310,300
Interest on money belonging to the State .
.
162,500
Money belonging to the State j
2ig 5Qy
Obligations due to the State )
...
,
Sundries, such as land-tax, police-fines, legacy
duties, &c
453,700
Total .
. 4,631,000
150
the people.
Norway.
The principal items of expenditure are :

*PRoyal family
111,000
Army
988,000
Navy
540,000
Civil administration, justice, and police
.
. 1,036,904
Diplomatic service .
.
.
.
.
.
76, 900
Interest on national debt
247,431
Pensions
76,700
Storthing
36,292
Education, &c
164,017
Improvement of roads
.....
51,073
Post
325,300
Telegraph
97,500
Lighthouses
92,919
Improvement of agriculture
.
.
.
47,266
Increase to official salaries
225,000
Sundries
529,000
Total .
. 4,645,302
The direct tax on land for the whole country is but 5700sp.
As the peasants or farmers produce the greatest portion of the articles they
consume, and scarcely purchase any luxuries, full two-thirds of the revenue
being derived from the customs, the burdens fall on the higher classes, and
upon those who, living in towns or along the coast, support themselves by the
fisheries. It is the wish of the Government to equalise the taxation by levying
a small land-tax, which would enable them to reduce some of the duties, but
as the majority of members of the Storthing are peasants, this will probably
be a work of some difficulty.
The Government have long been aware of the impolicy of trusting so largely
to the customs, instead of availing themselves of other sources of revenue which
could not be so easily disturbed by political changes.
14. THE PEOPLE.
The early and close connection which existed between the inhabitants of the
United Kingdom and those of Norway and other parts of Scandinavia has left
such strong traces both in the language and character of the former, that every
Englishman must be sensible of it, and will probably more quickly find himself
at home amongst the Norwegians than amongst any other part of the great
European family. The Norwegians have the same feelings towards the English ;
they like them, as every Englishman who has travelled in Norway can bear
witness.
Great patriotism and hospitality are two of the leading characteristics of
"Norway.
PRODUCTIVE INDUSTRY.
151
the Norwegians ; they are often cold and reserved, and combine great sim
plicity of manner with firmness and kindness. ' ' Deeds, not words, " is
their motto. Enjoying as much practical liberty as any nation can boast of,
they know and value it, and consequently are not only very independent, but
particularly jealous of any encroachments from those above them.
There is not much admixture of Finnic or Lapponic (Mongolian) race with
the Norwegian stock ; none probably in the South, and very little in the North
of Norway. The Norwegians are a tall, hardy, long-lived race. Standing in a
Norwegian crowd, an Englishman of average height will find so many taller,
or as tall as himself, that it is a difficult matter to see over or between their
heads. The reverse of this is the case in crowds of most continental nations.
Cutaneous diseases and chest affections are their worst maladies, so that those
with a tendency to those disorders should by no means travel there. Otherwise,
Norway is a very healthy country. Cholera raged in Christiania in -1853, and
in Christiansand in 1856, but did not spread inland, or extend to Trondhjem,
or the North, where it has never yet been seen. The dirt, bad drainage, and
heat in Christiania are quite enough to account for cholera there.
The upper and middle classes became amalgamated after the independence
of the country was established in 1814, and are comparatively few in number.
The bulk of the population is engaged in agricultural pursuits, the land being
mostly held in small farms. It is these small farmers, or peasants, as they
are called, who now command a majority in the Storthing. Like most agricul
turists they are obstinately opposed to innovations, but may easily be led by
those in whom they place confidence. The besetting sin of the peasants is
drunkenness, which engenders idle and dirty habits. The drudgery of the
farms falls upon the women in a great measure, and they are usually less clean
and well-dressed than the men, except upon Sundays and state occasions.
Much costume still exists amongst the peasants in the wildest districts, which
has been noticed under "Sketching," page 129.
IS. PRODUCTIVE INDUSTRY.^
Agriculture, tbc. Norway is essentially an agricultural and pastoral country,
but only about 100th part of the entire surface is supposed to be under culture,
or otherwise productive. Most of the land is the property of those who culti
vate it, and is called udal, which is equivalent to our freehold. The farms
usually comprise 3 divisions : the in-field, or land inclosed for cultivation and
the best hay ; the mark, or out-field, also inclosed and kept for pasturing the
cattle ; and the sceter or tract of grass land in the mountains, where a shed is
erected, and the cattle are pastured during the summer. A farm of average
size is about 300 acres, exclusive of the sceter. All the hay and other crops,
as well as the cattle, are kept under cover during the winter, which renders
the homestead large in proportion to the size of the farm. Almost all the
buildings are of timber, resting upon detached masses of rock, so as to allow
153
FORESTS.
Norway.
a free current of air underneath the structure. The farmers, as was formerly
the case in England, are so wedded to the system handed down to them from
their ancestors, and their implements are usually of such antiquated form and
rude construction, that farming is literally in its infancy amongst them, so far
as regards the scientific cultivation of land, excepting in the neighbourhood of
Christiania, where great improvements are in progress. Deep draining has
been introduced there, and some improved implements of agriculture have
been imported, the merits of which are fully appreciated.
The quantity of corn, rye, barley, oats, &c. , sown in the country in the year
1855, consisted of about
2,816 quarters of wheat,
8,850
do.
rye,
62,700
barley,
do.
mixed grain,
38,300
do.
18,600
do.
oats,
5,000
peas,
do.
277,400
potatoes.
do.
The imports of grain amounted to about 492,591 imperial quarters; a
quantity considerably less, however, than in 1851, when 631,390 quarters
were imported, or than in 1852, when the imports amounted to 602,110
quarters. The provinces of Hedemarken, Toten, and Smaalehnes are the
great agricultural disiricts of Norway. Wheat is grown in a few favoured
spots, but it only enters into the domestic economy of a Norwegian household
as an article of luxury.
In many parts of Norway there are corn magazines, to which the farmers
may send their surplus produce, and from whence also they may be supplied
with loans of grain. The depositors receive at the rate of 12 per cent, of
increase on the corn deposited for 12 months ; and the borrowers replace the
quantities advanced them at the expiration of the same period, paying an in
crease of 25 per cent. This difference between the amount of the corn
received and lent pays the expenses. These magazines are most useful, in
consequence of the extreme precariousness of the crops.
The most profitable branch of rural industry appears to be that of breeding
horses and cattle. The latter are small, but admirable for the dairy. The
true Norwegian horse (now but rarely met with) is about 13 or 14 hands high,
colbur dun, with black mane, tail, and legs, and also a black strii>e along the
back ; head small, splendid crest and mane, high shoulder, and finely pro
portioned. Those bred on the mountains usually run very small. In the
S. of Norway horses are about 50 per cent, dearer than in the N. and W.
Forests. Another great source of profit to the farmers in some parts of Nor
way is their pine and fir timber ; most of it grows upon the banks of those
great rivers and their tributaries which flow into the Christiania Fjord. The
farmers assemble to meet the timber merchants in Christiania at midsummer,
the contracts are entered into, and about 20 per cent, paid in advance. The
Norway.
FOHESTS.
MINES.
153
trees are then felled, cut into lengths, and floated ^town the rivers in the spring
to the saw-mills of the merchants, where they are sawn into planks, sorted, and
dried for exportation. Upwards of 8-10ths of the Norwegian timber is taken
by France. Only about l-10th, of the best quality, comes to England". The
chief places from whence it is exported are Drammen, Christiania, and Sarpsborg, near Frederikstad. The total annual produce of the Norwegian forests,
in timber, deals, charcoal, and firewood, is estimated at 1,000,000. Oak
grows only in some of the more southern provinces ; there is one oak tree in a
garden near Trondhjem (latitude 634). Beech are found in one particular
district near Laurvig (latitude 59), and a few near Christiansand. The ash
(fraxinus excelsior) is confined to the South of Norway. Fir, mountain ash,
birch, poplar, and several kinds of willow flourish all over the country. Spruce
fir is the prevailing tree of the South of Norway, but it is not found much
north of the Arctic circle, where Scotch fir takes its place. Mountain ash,
(pyrus ancuparia) grows very luxuriantly : and its clusters of berries are ex
ceedingly beautiful in the autumn. The larch is not indigenous to Norway,
but it has been planted, and thrives well near Bergen.
Currants, raspberries, and strawberries, and numerous other berries, such as
the molteberry (rubus chamsemorus), the whortleberry (vaccinium vitis Idasa),
&c. , grow wild in Norway, and bear good fruit. Oherries, gooseberries, apples,
pears, and all kinds of English summer vegetables ripen in the South of
Norway.
Mines.No coal has yet been discovered in Norway, which is a great draw
back upon the mining operations which might otherwise be carried on ; but the
ores are, on the other hand, of extraordinary richness in many places. Some
of the iron ores, for instance, in the S. produce 80 and even 95 per cent, of
pure metal. The plan of exporting the unsmelted ores, which prevails so
extensively in Cornwall, appears not yet to have been adopted in Norway.
At present the mineral productions are chiefly confined to iron, copper, silver,
nickel, and cobalt.
The iron mines are numerous, but are not worked to any extent, as in all the
mining districts they are restricted to a fixed quantity of fuel, which necessarily
limits the produce ; were this not fixed, the production might be increased for
a few years, but then the forests would be altogether exhausted. The total
quantity of iron obtained does not exceed 305 000 tons per annum, but it is of
the finest quality.
The total produce of copper varies from 400 to 500 tons. It is shipped
to Germany, Holland, and France. The Eoraas copper mines are among
the oldest in Europe, having been worked for upwards of 200 years. The
Kongsberg silver mines belong to the State, and for a series of years have
returned an annual profit of about 200,000 dollars, although the number of
men employed to work them is less than 400 ; the metal occurs chiefly in the
form of native silver, and beautiful crystallized specimens are occasionally met
with ; there is one in the museum at Copenhagen which weighs about 500
H 3
154
FISHERIES. COMMERCE.
Norway.
pounds. Since their commencement these mines have produced upwards of six
millions sterling.
*
FuhtrUs. The inhabitants of the Norwegian coast throughout its whole
extent, as well as those of the great fjords in the W., are almost entirely
supported by the fisheries, which are estimated at upwards of 1, 000,0002.
The most important are the cod and sey, which are carried on during
February and March about the Loffoden Islands and other parts of the N.
coast. Nearly 3000 boats are employed, the largest of which are about 3
tons burden.
The herring-fishery is chiefly carried on between Bergen and Stavanger. It
usually commences after the cod season is over, and the annual produce is about
1,000,000 barrels.
From Bergen to the Naze there is also an extensive take of lobsters, most of
which are exported to London alive. During the season there are two lines of
packets between Norway and England constantly employed in this trade. In
the summer large quantities of mackerel are taken off the S. coast and are ex
tensively salted for winter use in Norway. Great numbers of salmon are also
taken upon the S. coast, and in all the rivers where they can get up throughout
Norway.
Manufactures are almost entirely domestic, the division of labour being
carried to a less extent in Norway than in almost any other part of Europe.
The Norwegian peasant has few wants, and unites most trades in his own
person and family, purchasing nothing which can be raised or made upon his
own farm ; yet of late years numerous manufactories have been established for
working up the natural products of the country, for which the numerous water
falls supply a great abundance of water power. Besides a great number of
brandy distilleries there are breweries, tobacco manufactories, saw-mills, iron
foundries, and smelting works scattered all over the country. The cottonspinning, and weaving factories for the production of the coarser kinds of cloth
have not been able to compete with the English wares, in spite of a high
protective duty.
Almost all the towns in Norway are upon or near the coast, and import
such manufactures as they require ; these comprise German, French, and
English.
16. COMMERCE.
Internal trade in Norway is at present upon a very small scale, arising from
the habits of the peasantry, as before stated, as well as the thinness of the
population, the mountainous nature of the country, and badness of the roads.
The latter, however, are being improved as fast as the national resources will
permit, and in the best manner.
The Bank of Norway is in Trondhjem, and has branches in Christiania,
Bergen, and Christiansand. For further particulars see Trondhjem.
Norway.
LITERATURE, ETC.
155
Foreign Trade of late years has been exceedingly prosperous. Duties on

imported articles have been relaxed, as far as compatible with the exigencies
of the State, and a great advance has been made towards adopting the
principles of free trade. The result so far has been, not only to encourage in tercourse with foreign nations, but to stimulate the energies of the Norwegians
to develope the internal resources of their country.
The Exports from Norway are chiefly deals and timber, fish, and minerals.
Of the former, upwards of 500,000 loads are annually shipped to France,
England, Denmark, Holland, and Belgium.
Between 400,000 and 600,000 barrels of herrings are annually sent to
Sweden, Denmark, and the Baltic ports. The produce of the cod-fishery, which
comprises the fish both in a dried and salted state, cod liver oil, and cod roes, is
very great. The fish are sent to Russia, France, Spain, and Italy ; the oil to
Germany and Holland ; and the roes to France and the N. coast of Spain,
where they are used as bait in the Sardine fishery. Of late years granite has
been extensively exported to Hamburg, where it is used for the foundations of
houses and other purposes.
The Imports comprise all kinds of colonial produce, wines, and the manufac
tures of Germany, France, and England, particularly the latter ; salt, coals,
iron wares, and a great variety of articles of luxury, for which prosperity in
variably creates a demand.
The Commercial Marine shows great activity. In 1855 it consisted of
6241 vessels ; the united tonnage of which amounted to 528,964 tons, and
the seamen to 28,638 ; an increase of 125,987 tons since 1851. This in a
country of less than 1,500,000 inhabitants is a great stride, and is a further
proof of its increasing prosperity. The repeal of the English navigation laws
probably gave a considerable impulse to Norwegian shipping.
17. LITEBATOKE, ETC.
Literature in Norway is rather at a low ebb. The cause of this may be
traced to the state of society, which is evidently unfavourable to great mental
exertion ; nothing is to be gained by it, and as intellectual labour follows the
same law as bodily, where people are at their ease, and are not urged on
either by want or by ambition, no strenuous efforts " are to be expected, and
the reading part of the public is so limited in numbers, that no pecuniary
temptation is held out to the man of letters. It is true that Norway has
produced several scientific writers of note, but all of them, in order to ensure
a circulation for their works, have been obliged to publish them in the German
language. In the lower departments of literature there have been several
authors of merit, and numerous translations of foreign books, particularly
English and German, are to met with. Among their own writers, Holberg,
Munch, Wessel, Welhaven, Wergeland, and several others, are always men
tioned with distinction. At the University there are professors who are
156
THKATRES.
Norway
acquiring European names in astronomy, geology, and other branches of

science. Norway can also boast of several artists of celebrity, but who, from
want of encouragement at home, are chiefly settled in Germany.
The state of the public press is creditable to the country, and conducted
with considerable talent. Almost every town possesses a newspaper, and the
capital no less than six, besides a Penny Magazine and several monthly
publications.
There are Norwegian theatres in Bergen and Christiania, and also a Danish
theatre in the latter, where Danish pieces principally, and translations of
French vaudevilles are acted. There is a considerable collection published of
Norwegian national aire, and some of the melodies are very charming. The
constant theme of the most popular songs and favourite airs is Gamle Norge
(Old Norway). "The Swiss Rani des Yaches does not produce a more
wonderful effect upon the Alpine shepherd than does this simple national
allusion on the mind of the Norwegian."Crichton's Scandinavia, v. ii. p.
315.
NOTICE.
In the following Norwegian routes the names of Stations and distances have
been checked by the Government Road-book as far as it extends. For those
which are not included in that book, Waligorski's Map, and Roosen's, both
published in Christiania, have been relied upon, as being considered the best
and most likely to be used by travellers. But to guard against any alterations
which may be made in the Stations, or inaccuracy of their names or distances,
it is always advisable, on sending Forbud papers, to have them checked and
compared with the Lomme Reiseroute, before sending them.
Distances in Norway will always be given in Norsk (Norwegian) miles, un
less English miles be expressly stated.
Both in Norway and Sweden the heights of mountains, and levels of lakes
in all the Routes, have been (with few exceptions) taken from Forsell's Map,
in 8 sheets, published at Stockholm, and are therefore given in Swedish feet.
See " Measures, "*in Preliminary Information to Sweden.
The asterisk *, prefixed to the names of Stations, denotes that good or toler
able accommodation is to be obtained there.
And the obelisk t, before the name of a Station, marks it as a "Fast Sta
tion ;" that is, that horses are kept in readiness there; see pp. 106, 112.
Norway.
route 20.London to chrIstiania.
157
ROUTES THROUGH NORWAY.

ROUTE 20.
trouble and additional expense, he
can take the steamer from Kiel to
LONDON TO CHRISTIANIA.
on the west coast of Zealand,
The most direct and cheapest route Korsor
and
by rail to Copen
is by way of Hull, a distance of 500 hagen.from Athence
Norwegian government
English miles. The boat leaves Hull steamer leaves
that capital every
every other Friday, commencing April Wednesday at noon,
and arrives in
30th.
Christiania early on the Friday morn
By leaving London by the Great ing,
after stopping at Gottenborg for
Northern Railway about noon, Hull is
time en roule.
reached in time to catch the boat for a short
Those who do not dislike a sea
Christiania, which leaves the same passage
will find it cheaper to go
evening. Berths can be secured, and
London to Hamburg by steamer,
exact time of departure ascertained by from
thence by rail to Kiel, as de
writing to Messrs. Wilson and Son, and
; or by a steamer direct from
North of Europe Steam Navigation scribed
Hamburg to Christiansand, and thence
Company's Agents, Hull. Christian- by
some of the coasting steamers to
sand is usually reached on the Sunday Christiania.
evening, and travellers wishing to go
In
present year (1858) the
round the coast by steam to Bergen boats the
on this line (Hamburg to
(Route 25) had better land here. For Christiansand,
Bergen, and TrondInns, see Route 24. The Hull boat pro-) leave Hamburg on Saturdays,
ceeds on her voyage after a short delay, hjem,
Christiansand on Mondays, reach
and usually arrives at Christiania on and
ing Bergen on Tuesday. They leave
the Tuesday morning. Fare from Bergen,
going northwards, on Sundays,
Hull, from 31. to SI. 10s. The boats and reach
Trondhjem on Tuesdays.
return on the intermediate Fridays.
leave Trondhjem on Sundays,
There are, however, various other They
on Thursdays, Christiansand
modes of reaching Christiania. The Bergen
on Fridays on their southward course,
quickest, after the one pointed out, and
reach Hamburg on Sundays.
is by Calais or Ostend to Hamburg,
go from London to Hamburg
which can be reached in 36 hours twoBoats
or three times a week, from St.
from London, if the traveller be Katherine's
Wharf. They are some
limited for time. Supposing the
apt to be crowded and un
traveller to have arrived in Hamburg times
comfortable. Fare, 21. Average pas
by 6 o'clock A.M. on the Saturday sage,
55 hours. See Route 1.
morning, he will be in time for the
train from Altona to Kiel. At Kiel
Kiel to Christiania.
he can join the Christiania govern
A Norwegian steamer leaves Kiel
ment steamer, which starts immedi
ately after the arrival of the train, every Saturday at noon for Christiania
and arrives at Christiania on the Sun direct, on the arrival of the train
day night or early on the Monday from Hamburg. Fare, chief cabin,
morning. Christiania can be reached 8 specie dollars. Average passage,
by this route between the Thursday 35 to 40 hours. On her return voyage
and the Tuesday following, but not she leaves Christiania on Tuesdays at
at a less expense than from 81. to 10/. noon, commencing on the 30th of
By selecting this route, if the March, and after touching at inter
traveller is desirous of visiting Copen mediate ports in the Christiania Fjord,
hagen, which will well repay the reaches Kiel on Wednesday evenings.
158
ROUTE 20.LONDON TO CHRTSTIANIA.
On clearing the pretty bay of Kiel

and entering the Baltic, after a run
of about 40 Eng. m. , the Great Belt
is entered between the islands of
Langeland on the W. and Laaland on
the E. , see Route 9. Proceeding up
the Belt, the ship calls at Korsor on
Zealand, see Route 8, and at Frederikshavn in the north of Jutland.
On clearing the Belt, the course taken
leads nearly due N. across those por
tions of the North Sea which are
known as the Kattegat and Skager
rack. During heavy gales in winter
the seas here are terrific, and the loss
of life and property, at times, fright
ful ; see p. 84. On leaving the
Skagerrack the ship enters the mouth
of 1
The Christiania Fjord. This mag
nificent fjord, by which most travel
lers approach Christiania, properly
commences about Frederikstad, on the
eaKtern side of the fjord, and Sandcesund on the western side, where the
steamer calls, and where passengers
desirous of going round the coast can
generally cateh a steamer going west
ward to Christiansand. The length
of the fjord is about 70 Eng. m.
The rocks at the entrance of the
fjord are numerous and rugged, on
one of which, by name "Fserder,"
there is a lighthouse. From Frede
rikstad the fjord gradually narrows
till arriving at the small town of
Horten on the left, while on the
opposite side is Moss. Horten is the
Portsmouth of Norway ; most of the
government vessels are now built,
repaired, or laid up in ordinary here.
On passing Horten, the fjord spreads
considerably, and soon becomes di
vided, the branch to the left running
up to the large town of Drammen
(see Route 24) ; the right to Christi
ania. This branch becomes very
narrow at the small town of Drobak,
where some new forts have lately
been erected. Drobak is on the
right, and the fjord then gradually
widens to a noble expanse, studded
Norway.
with numerous islands. At the

northern extremity stands Christi
ania. The voyage all the way up
this fjord forms a moving panorama
of lake scenery, unique in character,
and of great beauty. Those who ex
pect savage grandeur and picturesque
outline of the mountains and rocks
on the banks of this fjord will be dis
appointed- -they must be sought for
in the Bergen and other districts to
the W. and N. , where they abound in
perfection. Most of the islands and
hills seen from the fjord are too round
in form to be very picturesquethey
are of granite and of gneiss, and for
the most part covered with fir and
pine trees from the water's edge to
the summit, interspersed with patches
of clearing, each farm being distin
guished by its group of buildings.
On the whole, the scenery of the
Christiania Fjord is as lovely as its
form and extent are magnificent.
The traveller, coming from Ham
burg, will be probably much struck
by the lightness of the nights in the
months of May, June, and July, and
the gorgeous sunset effects, which
blend into those of sunrise without
losing their brightness. Any one
fortunate enough to steam up this
fjord on a clear, still night in one of
these months will be amply repaid
for staying on deck all night and
watching the glorious colours reflected
on the water. The steamer's course
is due northtowards the sunthe
whole night, and there is probably no
place in the whole of Norway, where
sunsets are seen to greater advantage.
Farther to the northwards, and nearer
the Arctic circle, the sun, being but a
little below the horizon, has generally
too much power for the colours to be
very gorgeous.
On the left, before reaching Chris
tiania, numerous villas are seen ; then
the new palace comes in sight, with
the Castle of Agershuus in the fore
ground beneath. Rounding the point
on which this castle is built, the w hole
Norway.
ROUTE 20.
city, with its harbour, at once opens

up. The ship now quickly reaches
her moorings, and is speedily hauled
alongside the quay. A custom-house
officer immediately comes on board,
and if assured that the luggage con
tains no merchandize, a very slight
search is made. Nothing can exceed
the courtesy of the custom-house offi
cials. Passports are not demanded,
but no traveller should be without
one, as there is a right to demand it,
and although one is not always re
quired to land with, it is not possible
to leave the country without one.
Ciiristiakia.Inm: The Victoria
Hotel is by far the best, and is very
fairly comfortable, 1>ut the charges
are very high, in comparison with the
general scale of hotel charges on the
Continent. English spoken. There
are besides, the H6tel da Nord, the
Hotel de Scandinarie, the HStel
cfAnc/leterre, Prinds Carl, and the
Copenhagen Hotel. English, French,
and German- spoken generally at all
of them. These are less expensive
than the Victoria, but the accommo
dation is inferior. None of them are
distant from the landing-place, and
if full, the masters can generally pro
cure lodgings close by. There is an
excellent restaurant at the Freemason's
Hall.
The Post Office (post-contoir) is on
the northern side of the market-place.
Show your card on asking for letters.
The postage of a letter by the regular
post to England is Is. 5d., and by
Hull, 7d. ; by the latter route, onehalf must be paid on posting the
letter, the other half in England on
receipt. By the first route, letters
can be prepaid or not, as is most
convenient. Postage on letters all
over Norway is 4 skillings.
The British Consul-General, Mr.
Crowe, resides in Christiania. He
and his sons are most courteous and
kind in giving information to travel
lers respecting any part of Scandi
navia, or who intend to proceed to
CHRISTIANIA.
Russia, which perhaps they are better
qualified than any one in the north
to do.
Money. See Preliminary informa
tion (p. 103). Circular or Bank of
England notes are most convenient :
the former have generally special
agents, named in the letter accom
panying the notes; with respect to
the latter, advice is readily afforded
at the Consulate, as to how they can
be most profitably converted. Before
leaving Christiania a good supply of
change, or small money, must be taken.
It is not to be obtained except in
large towns. The hours of business
in Christiania are usually from 8 to
1. Coffee is taken on rising (and
excellent it is all over Norway).
Dejeuner a la fourchette at 10, and
dinner at 2. All classes take off their
hate on entering a shop, or other place
of business, and a foreigner will not
meet with less attention for respecting
this Scandinavian custom.
Christiania is the modern capitel of
Norway. By the last census in 1855,
the population was 40,000. This city
was founded by Christian IV., close
upon the site of the ancient city of
Osloe, which, with the exception of
the Episcopal Palace, and a few houses,
was entirely destroyed by fire on the
24th May, 1624. Christian IV. named
the city after himself, happening to be
in Norway at the time on a visit to his
newly-discovered silver mine at Kongsberg.
Osloe was founded in 1058, by
King Harald Haardraade, and in 150
years was, after Nidaros (now Trondhjem) and Bergen, the third city in
the kingdom. Upon the union of
Norway with Denmark it became the
capitel of Norway. Two kings, Chris
topher III. and Christian II., were
crowned there. The Cathedral of St.
Harvard was very rich ; it was there
that James VI. of Scotland and I. of
England married Anne of Denmark,
sister of Christian IV., in 1589.
The streets of Christiania are broad,
160
EOCTE 20.CI1RISTIANIA.
and laid out at right angles. But few

of the ancient and picturesque loghouses remain. Most have been con
sumed in the repeated fires to which
the city has been subjected, and in
consequence of which a law has been
made which precludes the erection of
wooden houses within the precincts of
the city. Most of the houses are there
fore of brick, squat, plain, and, with
some rare exceptions, utterly devoid
of architectural beauty or interest.
In the street leading to the new palace
the best efforts of the Norwegians in
domestic architecture may be seen.
In April of this year (1858), a fear
ful fire has ravaged Christiania, by
which 60 houses were destroyed, and
1000 people rendered houseless. It
broke out in the Skipper (fade in the
very centre of the town, and long de
fied the efforts made to extinguish it.
The estimated value of fixed property
burnt was 110,000 , and about a simi
lar amount of goods and moveables
in all about 220,000i.
The rapid strides that Norway has
made in wealth and population since
she became emancipated from the
Danish yoke give abundant hope for
the future. The population of Chris
tiania alone has increased 30,000
since 1815. There is a genius and
firm, quiet energy in the people, which,
added to their patriotism, their ardent
love of "GamleNorge" (OldNorway),
will overcome all obstacles of climate
and geographical position. To the
honour of the Government, they sent
one of the ablest of the Norwegian
advocates to France and England to
inquire and report upon the law of
evidence and trial by jury, with a
view to the improvement of the crimi
nal law of Norway. Let them adopt
the same plan with their architects
and civil engineers, furnish them with
the means (which they do not possess)
of seeing what has been done in other
countries, and the public buildings and
roads of Norway may be expected to
keep pace with thoseof otherEuropean
Norway.
countries, provided sufficient grants

and laws are made by the Storthing.
The chief merit of the new palace
over the very miserable old one in the
heart of the town is its situation,
which is very fine. Tickets to view
the palace can always be procured ;
the hours of admission are from 11
till 7. From the roof an uninter
rupted and splendid view is obtained
of the city, the fjord, and the sur
rounding country.
None of the churches possess any
particular architectural interest.
The University numbers about 800
students. The Library, containing
about 200,000 volumes, admirably
arranged, is well worth a visit. It
is open every day in the week from
12 to 2, excepting Saturday and Sun
day.
The collection of Northern Antiqui
ties is open every Monday and Friday,
from 1 to 2. Though not extensive,
when compared with that at Copen
hagen, it nevertheless contains a va
riety of most interesting objects.
Amongst them is a massive gold collar,
and a number of other gold and silver
ornaments found in the Agershuus dis
trict in 1834, which are supposed to
have adorned a statue of Odin, and
to have been hidden where they were
found upon the introduction of Chris
tianity and spoliation of the heathen
temples. This department is under
the care of the amiable and learned
Professor Keyser, who has published
a work on Northern Antiquities, and
is deeply versed in Runic lore. There
are several articles here with Runic
inscriptions upon them. Also a girdle
and the knives used in the duel which
prevailed amongst the lower classes in
Norway till within the last 50 yeai s.
Each man began by driving his knife
into a piece of wood ; so much of the
blades as were not buried in it were
then carefully bound round with strips
of hide, the men placed close together,
face to face, the girdle buckled round
their waists so that neither could get
Norway.
ROUTE 20.NATIONAL GALLERY, ETC.
away from the other their knives

were then handed to them, and they
fought it out. This mode of fighting
was known as the ' ' duel of the girdle. "
Here also are the crown, girdle, and
frontlet, such as are still worn by
brides in the Bergen district, at least
such as are chaste, as the unchaste
are not allowed to wear the crown at
their marriage, and, therefore, to be
married without a crown is the direst
disgrace a damsel of that district can
incur. The Museum contains a num
ber of small rude statues in bronze of
heathen gods, horses, &c. The au
thorities of the Museum find great
difficulty in adding to this portion of
the collection, as when any of these
idols are found, the peasants usually
refuse to part with them, believing
they have medicinal virtues and heal
ing powers, so strongly do the re
mains of idolatry still linger in the
North amongst the lower ordersand
it was just the same in Denmark. The
specimens of weapons and ornaments
in flint, bronze, silver, and gold are
very interesting, and admirably
classed. There are also some fine
old swords, bite of armour, and wood
carvings.
The National Gallery is situated in
the " Stifts-Gaard" in Raadhusgade,
and contains several pictures of the
modern school. All of Tideraan's
are well worth looking at. His fa
mous picture of the "Haugianer"
was in the Paris Exhibition in 1855,
and has great merit. Of landscape
painters, Dahl, Gude, Fearnley, Frich,
Cappelen, Eckersburg, and Muller,
have their respective merits, and most
of them have established a name in
Germany. The Dusseldorf school is
well represented. Nordenberg, whose
compositions are in the same style as
the Norwegian Tideman, and others,
represent the Swedes.
The collection of old pictures is
hardly worthy of remark : the best
are some pictures of the Dutch school.
It is open on Sunday from 12 to 2,
101
and on Thursday from 11 to 1. Casts

from gome of Thorwaldsen's lovely
works form a great and valuable ad
dition to the gallery.
The Cabinet of (Joins may be seen
every Monday and Friday from 1 to 2,
and the collection of models from 12
to 1.
The Zoological Museum is open on
Mondays and Fridays from 1 2 to 2 ;
but to those who wish for admission
for any special purpose, four hours
weekly are granted. The Museum
contains some fine specimens of Scan
dinavian fauna. In addition to these
there are theZootomicalMuseum, open
on Saturdays from 1 to 3 ; the Collec
tion of Minerals on Fridays from 11
to 12; the Anatomical Museum on
Saturdays from 1 to 3 ; the Chemical
and Metallurgical Laboratories to be
seen every working day.
The Botanical Gardens, Library,
and Herbarium, under the manage
ment of Professor Fr. Chr. Schruebeler, are open every day in the week.
Prof. Schfuebeler has lately published
a book on the Geographical Distribu
tion of the Fruit Trees and Berrybiaring Shrubs of Norway, which gives
some interesting information about
the botany -of Norway.
The different collections in the
University are open for public inspec
tion several days in the week, when a
Professor usually attends, and with
much kindness gives information with
respect to the various objects to all
who seek it. Should strangers be un
able to attend on the public days there
is not much difficulty in obtaining ad
mission at other times.
The Theatre is a detached building,
about the size of the Surrey Theatre
in London, very neatly arranged and.
decorated ; the performers are Danes
from Copenhagen ; the entertainments
consist chiefly in vaudevilles, trans
lated from the French, and operas ;
occasionally the legitimate drama is
performed. The performances com
mence at half-past 6' and end at 10.
162
ROUTE 20.
The orchestra is good, and the thea

tre is altogether very respectably con
ducted.
Close to the theatre is the National
Bank, the Army Depot, and Free
masons' Hall ; part of which is used
as a restaurant. In it there is a ball
room, capable of containing 1700
people, which is used on all public
occasions.
The Castle of Agershum is situated
on a slight eminence at the southern
extremity of the town, and commands
the entrance into the harbour ; the
ramparts, which are laid out in
walks, form an agreeable promenade,
and are much frequented by the in
habitants. The castle is supposed to
have been built about the year 1302 ;
the regalia of Norway and the na
tional records are preserved within
its walls. It was strongly fortified,
and has withstood several severe
sieges ; the last was undertaken by
Charles XII. of Sweden in 1716. A
meadow on the opposite side of the
fjord, which is visible from the for
tress, is still called "Svenske Sletten" (Swedish Field), from being the
spot where his army was encamped.
Strangers are allowed to inspect the
interior of the castlea fine view
over the fjord and harbour is ob
tained from the ramparts. On the
western side of the keep are mounted
two splendid brass guns, cast in 1620,
and highly decorated with subjects in
bas-relief ; groups of barbarians fight
ing, admirably modelled and finished.
These guns appear to be of Saxon or
Bavarian workmanship, and are said
to have been taken during the Thirty
Years' War by the Swedes, from whom
they were again captured by the Nor
wegians, and have ever since been
placed here. They are used to alarm
the city when a fire breaks out. In
the keep there is a small collection
of old arms and armour, to see which
application must be made at the
" Artilleri Gaard." A large body of
convicts (or, as they are here called,
CHRISTIANIA.
Norway
"slaves"), most of them very hea

vily ironed, are imprisoned in this
castle, and worked- in gangs. Here
also, in a room or cage formed of
thick iron bars, was immured for life
Hiiyland, the Robin Hood of Norway.
His vices were inordinate love of the
fair sex and theft. His robberies
were, however, always confined to
the upper classes, while his kindness
and liberality to those in his own
rank of life rendered him exceedingly
popular amongst them. His crimes
never appear to have been accompa
nied with personal violence. He was
a native of Christiansand, where he
began his career. On being impri
soned for some petty theft, he broke
into the inspector's room, while he
was at church, and stole his clothes ;
these Hoyland dressed himself in,
and quietly walked out of the town
unobserved and unsuspected. He
was subsequently repeatedly captured
and imprisoned in this castle, and as
often made his escape. On one oc
casion he was taken on board a ves
sel just leaving the Christiania Fjord
for America. Previous to his last
escape, all descriptions of irons hav
ing been found useless, he was placed
in solitaryconfinement in the strongest
part of the basement of the citadel
his room was floored with very thick
planks. Here he had been confined
for several years when, one night, the
turnkey said to him, ' ' Well, you are
fixed at last, you will never get out
of this, and so you may as well pro
mise us you will not attempt it." To
this he only replied, " It is your bu
siness to keep me here if you can,
and mine to prevent your doing so if
possible." The following day, when
his cell was opened, the prisoner was
gone, apparently without leaving a
trace of the manner in which he had
effected his escape. After a repeated
and careful search, on removing his
bed, it was found that he had cut
through the thick planks of the floor
ing. On removing the planks cut
Norway.
ROUTE 20.
SHOPS.CARRIAGES.
away (and which he had replaced on

leaving the cell), it appeared he had
sunk a shaft, and formed a gallery
under the wall of his prisonthis
enabled him to gain the court-yard,
from whence he easily reached the
ramparts unseen, dropped into the
ditch, and got off. No trace of him
could be found. About twelve months
afterwards the National Bank was
robbed of 60,000 specie dollars,
chiefly paper money, and in the
most mysterious manner, there being
no trace of violence upon the locks
of the iron chest, in which the money
had been left, or upon those of the
doors of the bank. Some time after
wards a petty theft was committed
by a man who was taken and soon
recognised to be Hbyland. He then dis
closed how he had effected his last
escape, which had taken him 3 years
of steady patient labour to accom
plish : while others slept he was at
work, and with a nail for his only
tool. Having money concealed in the
mountains he was sheltered in Christianiadisguised himselfmade ac
quaintance with the porter of the
bankgradually, without his know
ledge, took impressions of the vari
ous locksmade keys for themand
thus committed the robbery before
mentioned. He carved beautifully
in wood and stone, but latterly he
was no longer allowed the use of
tools, after which his sole occupation
was knitting stockings with wooden
pins. Twice during the day, while
the other prisoners were not at work,
he used to be allowed to leave his
cell for air and exercise, and occa
sionallyhe gotthe amusement of a chat
with the governor, by writing to him
that he would disclose where the rest
of the bank money was concealed
which he did not get rid of while at
liberty. At last he hung himself in
prison in despair.
The Steam-boat Office is on the
quay, and rarely open except in the
morning. A printed list may be ob
163
tained there of the arrival and de

parture of the different steamers all
round the coast and elsewhere. Care
must be taken to ascertain at the of
fice for what length of time the list
may be relied upon, as alterations are
made towards the end of the season.
The Passport Office is at the corner
of Kaadhuusgaden, not far from the
Hotel du Nord.
Shops. Most of the shopkeepers
speak English. The best houses of
business are in and near the Kirkegaden. At a corner of that street is
I. 'W. Cappelen's book and music
warehouse. It is the best for books,
maps, and music ; and for those in
tending to stay any time in Christiania, it may be convenient to know
he also keeps a good assortment of
pianos. A travelling map, and the
small " Lomme-Reiseroute" (or Road
book), published by the Government,
are essential, and may be purchased
at this shop. Munch's map is the best,
but is rather expensive. Roosen's is
good, but minute, sometimes requir
ing a magnifying-glass. It is in two
sheets, price about 5 sp. d. Waligorski and Wergeland's is cheaper,
but has not nearly as many places
marked as Munch's or Roosen's. Keilhau's Amts Karter is the best geolo
gical map. Take care to ask for the
last edition of the Road-book, as some
of the stations are altered from time
to time. Herr Cappelen speaks Eng
lish, and is a most intelligent person.
Lexow's, at the comer of Dronningen's-gaden and Kirkegaden, is the
best shop for provisions, preserved
meats, &c.
Carriages. Mr. Bennett may be
depended upon to supply travellers
with carrioles or carriages. See page
111. The plan always recommended
by Norwegians and others here, is to
buy a carriole or other carriage ; when
this is done, and the purchaser wants
to sell at the end of his journey, he
may be sure his loss will be from
30 to 50 per cent. Those who are
164
KOUTE 20. CHRISTIANIA.
returning to Christiania, and only in

tend to remain a month or two in the
country, will therefore do well to hire
instead of buying. In this case the
bargain should be for so much a day,
or week, the lender to pay for any
repairs requisite from wear and tear ;
the party hiring for those arising
from accidental damage ; and to have
the option of purchasing, at a given
gum, instead of paying for the hire,
should he wish to do so, within a
time to be named. This is very
advisable in case the traveller should
alter his route and not return to
Christiania. The value, of course,
depends upon the build and state of
the carriage, and the time it is hired
for. The price of a good light phae
ton without hood, is about 20/. ; a set
of new double harness, with breech
ing, SI. 10s. ; a new carriole without
springs costs about 8/. ; with springs,
9/. ; harness, 45s. The hire of a
phaeton, with harness, for a journey
of about a month, costs about a dol
lar a day; a carriole, from 1 to 14
mark. If going a long distance, by
all means buy new harness. Hames,
padded with leather, being used in
stead of a collar, the same harness
readily fits every horse, and is of the
, most simple description. Do not be
persuaded to dispense with breeching.
Near the new palace there are some
Tea-gardens, commanding agreeable
views. A good band of German per
formers play there most evenings in
the summer. Refreshments are sup
plied as in Germany ; admission, 1
mark.
Society in Christiania is described
as being particularly pleasant. Great
hospitality prevails, and the upper
classes are generally highly educated,
and particularly intelligent and agree
able. Winter is the gay time here ;
and "a traveller, transported by the
fairies some fine winter night across
the North Sea from an evening party
in Prince's Street, Edinburgh, to one
in Prindsen's Gade in Christiania,
Norway.
would scarcely know, if deaf to the

difference of language, that he had
changed the scene."Laiwjt Swe
den, p. 360. "At a dinner party
the gentlemen rise from the table
and return to the drawing-room with
the ladies, when the old Norwegian
custom is generally observed of the
family shaking hands all round with
their guests." In addressing ladies
here, as in Sweden, you will always
be on the safe side to address the
married ones as Frue (my Lady), and
the maidens as Froken. Madame and
Jomfrue are the titles of the shop
keepers' wives and daughters.
Those who have time and inclina
tion to cultivate an acquaintance with
the language of the country will find
it an excellent plan to board with
some respectable family this can
readily be done, and upon very rea
sonable terms. It is not a difficult
language for an Englishman to ac
quire, and a month or six weeks'
assiduity will generally enable an in
telligent person sufficiently to master
Norsk for all travelling purposes.
The Environs of Christiania.The
botanical garden is about an Eng.
m. from the town on the road to
Trondhjem, and contains a good col
lection of plants indigenous to Nor
way and the neighbouring countries.
The garden is tastefully laid out, and
from its elevated position affords a
fine view of the town and fjord.
The best views of the environs are
obtained from Frogner-aasen, a point
about 1500 feet above the fjord, from
whence there is an extensive pano
rama of the country. In clear wea
ther, to the westward, the snow
capped mountains of Valders and
Tellemarken are visible ; whilst to
the eastward the view extends to the
frontiers of Sweden. Lakes, islands,
forests, villas, highly-cultivated mea
dows, blended with wild scenery, pre
sent themselves on every side ; in
fact, whichever way you turn, new
and picturesque groups and varied
Norway.
ROUTE 20. ENVIRONS.
objects meet your eye ; and the ve

getation, except where the naked
rocks protrude themselves, is so
luxuriant, that did not the bright
blue sky, and occasionally the keen
atmosphere, contradict it, the traveller
might well imagine himself in south
ern, instead of northern Europe.
The view from the opposite hill of
Egeberg, which is about 400 ft. high,
and rises close over the old town, is
thus described by Von Buch : " We
ascended by numerous serpentine
windings the steep height of the
Egeberg ; looking down from its sum
mit what a varied view is seen ! The
large town at the end of the bay, in
the midst of the country, spreading
out in small divergent masses in every
direction, till it is at last lost in the
distance among villages, farm-houses,
and well-built country houses. There
are ships in the harbour, ships be
hind the beautiful little islands which
front the bay, and other sails appear
in the distance. The majestic forms
of the steep hills rising in the horizon
over other hills which bound the
country to the westward, are worthy
of Claude Lorraine. I have long
been seeking" for a resemblance to
this country and to this landscape :
it is only to be found at Geneva, on
the Savoy side, towards the Jura
mountains ; but the Lake of Geneva
does not possess the islands of the
fjord, nor the numerous ships and
boats sailing in every direction. Here
the pleasure resulting from the sight
of an extraordinary and beautiful
country is heightened by the con
templation of human industry and
activity."
Among the seats in the neighbour
hood, Bogstad, the residence of the
Countess Wedel Jarlsberg, stands pre
eminent, and is worthy of a visit.
The drive to it, especially, is very
beautiful. It is situated about 7
Eng. m. W. of Christiania. From
the back of Holgerslyst, a summer
cottage belonging to the Stadtholder,
165
a splendid view is obtained of the

fjord and castle of Agershuus.
There are several pretty drives in
the neighbourhood of the town ; one
to Mariedal Lake, distant about 5
Eng. m., affords some beautiful views ;
another to Ladegaardtoen, which is
about 2 Eng. m. from Christiania on
the southern road, and is a delightful
retreat ; the grounds are pleasingly
laid out on a sequestered isthmus
stretching into the fjord. This spot
was purchased by the late king and
given to the inhabitants for a public
promenade. The views from it are
charming, and it is much frequented.
Numerous boats may be seen on a
summer's evening, passing to and fro
on the smooth surface of the fjord,
and filled with gaily-dressed visitors.
A band of music plays regularly every
evening ; and there is likewise a good
restaurant on the spot. A pleasant
trip may also be made to Ringeriget,
about 14 Eng. m. on the Bergen road :
see lloute 21. The station at Johnsrud is kept by a Norwegian peasant,
named "John Bull," who speaks
English : here the carrioles are left,
and a walk of about half an hour
brings you to " Kongens Udsigt."
The view from here at sunrise is
superb. The drive to Primdal,
about 7 Eng. in. on the Drobak road,
is picturesque. The road is cut on
the face of the cliff overhanging the
fjord, and is a very fine specimen of
Norwegian engineering : see Route 36.
Some interesting ruins of a monas
tery have lately been uncovered in
Hovedoen, an island lying about an
Eng. m. S. of the castle. It belonged
to the Cistercian monks, and appears
to have been built in 1147, and dedi
cated to the Virgin and the AngloSaxon king, Edmund. The first
monks came over from England ; at
the Reformation it was secularized,
and the materials were used to repair
the castle. It is of sufficient interest
to attract visitors, and the excavations
are still being carried on.
166
ROUTE 21.CHEISTIANIA TO BERGEN.
Norway.
Steamers leave Christiania for Co ing at Christiania between 3 or 4 p.m.

penhagen every Saturday at 8 a.m., on the same day. The captain speaks
commencing on April 3rd. They call English ; fares exceedingly moderate,
at Gottenborg on Sunday morning, cuisine and wines good and very
and reach Copenhagen early on Mon reasonable. Carriages are taken on
day. The same vessel leaves Copen board. A carriage can easily be ob
hagen on Wednesdays at noon, calls tained from Frederikshald to the falls.
at Gottenborg on the Thursday morn For description of Frederikshald and
ing, and arrives at Christiania early of the Sarp-Fos, see Route 36.
on the Friday morning, touching at
The scenery upon this short voyage
all the intermediate ports in the is highly interesting ; and up the
Christiania Fjord. Passengers wish Swinesund to Frederikshald it becomes
ing to go to the westward can land at most grand. This fjord is generally
Sandcesund, and proceed from thence of enormous depth, and in parts so
by one of the numerous steamers, narrow as to afford scarcely sufficient
which touch there on their way to room for two ships to pass, the .granite
rocks on either side rising almost ver
Christiansand.
The average passage to Copenhagen tically from the water, and towering
is about 42 hours, of which some are up to a vast height, beautifully broken
passed at Gottenborg. Fare, chief and intermingled with foliage of
cabin, 8 sp. ds. For Kiel the steamer various kinds. There is a most pic
leaves, as previously stated, every turesque view of the Fortress of
Tuesday at noon, catling at Sandce- Frederiksteen, from the fjord, shortly
sund also, and other places in the before Frederikshald comes in sight.
fjord, to take up passengers that may The forms of the rocks, with the
have arrived from the westward.
winding fjord in the foreground, and
Many persons who visit Norway are the fortress crowning the hill in the
contented with going up the fjord to distance, make a charming subject
Christiania, and seeing a little of for the pencil.
the country around the city. Those
Those who may prefer making this
who do no more than this can form trip entirely or partially by land, can
no just idea of the grandeur of Nor hire a carriage in Christiania, and
wegian scenery. Comfort, during a follow Route 36.
journey into the interior of Norway,
will much depend upon attention to
ROUTE 21.
the preliminary information given CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN OVER RINOEunder the head of "Requisites for
RIOET, AND THE FILLE-FJELD.
Travelling," p. 109.
The Northern Road. Distance
Excursions front' Christiania to the
splendid Falls of the Glommen (Sarp- 49f Norsk miles, or 346 Eng. This
Fos) near Frederikstad, and to Frede- road is to be found in the Lommerikshald, where Charles XII. was Reiseroute, under Route 5, as far as
killed. This delightful trip can be Grinagermarken ; thence to Hcegunder
most easily and comfortably made. Route 9, and from Hoeg to Bergen
A steamer leaves Christiania every under Route 8. Tourists have the
morning at 7 a.m. during the season, choice of two other roads to Bergen,
for Frederikshald (where she arrives Routes 22 and 23. By this road the
about 3 or 4 p.m.), calling at the journey to Bergen (exclusive of any
several towns and places in the fjord excursions which may be made en
en route, including Frederikstad. route to the Voring-fos, &c.) takes
From Frederikshald a steamer like from 6 to 7 days.
wise starts every morning at 7, arriv
The post goes twice a week between
Norway.
route 21.over THE FILLE-FJELD.
Christiania and Bergen, alternately

by this and the South road, Route 22.
Forbud papers may be sent by the
post for a trifling sum, which effects
a considerable saving. Take care
personally to ascertain at the postoffice what day the post goes, and
which road it takes. Inquire also
in Christiania, if any steamer is run
ning upon the Rands Fjord, which
lies parallel with this road for about
50 Eng. m., and what the days are,
on which it runs.
Many of the hills upon this road
are very steep, so that if you take
a 4-wheeled carriage, it should be of
the lightest description. Gentlemen
will find a carriole by far the best
and least-expensive conveyance in all
respects, both upon this road as well
as all others in Norway. The only 4wheeled carriage proper for Norwegian
travelling is a light double-bodied
phaeton, holding 4 persons. A good
stock of small money is essential, as
change is most difficult to obtain en
route. Meat or white bread will
probably only be found at one or two
of the stations, and the Norwegian
plan of carrying a box or basket of
provisions, wine, &c, should there
fore be adopted.
The scenery upon this route may
be divided into two districts, which
are separated by the Fille-Fjeld.
The views on the eastern side are
of vast extent and great beauty ; the
mountains upon a grand scale, and
foliage most abundantthe effects at
sunset sublime. On the western side
of the Fille-Fjeld, foliage is com
paratively rare, the outline of the
mountains and rocks more pictu
resque, and the whole scenery wild and
grand in the extreme. Mr. Harrow
says, and says truly, ' ' that it would be
endless to describe, or rather to
attempt to describe, the ever-varied
beauties of the face of nature ex
hibited the whole way from Chris
tiania to Bergen."Excursions in the
North of Europe, p. 201.
167
On quitting Christiania the road

passes close under the new palace,
which is seen on the right. Splendid
views over the fjord on the left. At
Stabaek the road to Kongsberg, Route
23, turns off. Ours bends to the
N.W., and passes through pleasing
woodland scenery to
* Johnsrud, 1J, a town stage, from
Johnsrud to Christiania, pay for 2.
From hence the road continues to
ascend through wild scenery to an
elevation of 1246 feet, near Krogklexen,
the views from whence are esteemed
the finest and most extensive in the
south of Norway. Krogtleven is
about 1 m. from Johnsrud : there is
a Bellevue, or tavern there, where
decent accommodation may be pro
cured, and where a guide may be
obtained to the spots commanding the
best views ; but for those en route for
Bergen the stage does not end here.
The views, however, are splendid,
and should on no account be passed
unseen, as they are near the road.
Opinions differ as to which is the
finest view. Kongens Udsigt (King's
View) is about \ an hour's walk from
the post-house, and on the left side of
the road from Christiania. JJronnings
Udsigt (Queen's View) is much nearer,
and- on the right of the road. The
King's View is the most extensive. ,
From thence the eye wanders over
mountains, fjords, rivers, and lakes,
until it rests in the far distance upon
the massive heights of the Goustafjeld, which, though 70 Eng. m. on
the W., are distinctly visible in fine
weather. One of the most interesting
features of this sublime prospect is a
mighty chasm, closed in on either side
by walls of sandstone, which rise per
pendicularly from the depths below,
as if severed by some mighty convul
sion. The best time to see the mag
nificent views from hence is at sunrise
or sunset.
Although the Gousta cannot be
compared to Mont Blanc and the
snow-capped mountains that encircle
168
route 21.christianta to bergen.
their Alpine monarch, this view is by

many considered fully equal to the
famous descent from the Jura to the
Lake of Geneva. It embraces two
beautiful lakes, the Tyri Fjord and
Hols Fjord, and also a magnificent
and almost circular valley, surrounded
by a chain of mountains, of which
Krogkleven is a portion, all which is
called Ringeriget, or Ringa Rege, after
King Ring, one of the ancient petty
sovereigns of Norway, whose dominion
it was.
Immediately on leaving the posthouse at Krogkleven, the road enters
the deep chasm before mentioned ; the
rocks on either side are grand in out
line, and of great height. A long and
very rapid descent, commanding a
splendid view of the valley below,
and mountains in the distance, con
tinues all the rest of the stage to
* Sundvolden, 1J, pay for 2\.
Fair accommodation here, but charges
high. A road turns off from here to
Drammen, following the shore of the
Tyri Fjord for some distance, being
cnt in many places out of the rock of
the cliff ; it is a most beautiful drive,
and a good specimen of Norwegian
engineering. See Route 23. But to
continue : on leaving Sundvolden the
road soon crosses the Steens Fjord, a
branch of the Tyri Fjord ; the scenery
is lovely. About half-way on this
stage the south road to Bergen turns
off, Route 22, and leads to the Honefos, which lies a short distance N. of
our route. If not intending to return
to Christiania by Route 22, this noble
waterfall should now bg visited by
following that road to the Honefos
Station (14 from Sundvolden), from
whence there is a direct road back to
our route at KUekken ; dist. 1 m.
* Klcekken, If. There is a good
inn here. Upon this stage the road
commands exquisite views over the
Viuls Elv, which flows from the
Rands Fjord into the Tyri Fjord, and
the former magnificent lake is seen
upon the left, shortly before arriving at
Norway.
T Vasbunden, f. The road be

tween Kk'kken and Vasbunden is
good. From hence the road continues
for some distance along the eastern
banks of the Rands Fjord, which
winds N. amongst the defiles of the
mountains for upwards of 50 Eng. m.
T Sog?i, |. From Sogn the road
proceeds through picturesque ground
to
Sanne, 1. The road between here
and Sogn is very hilly, and two hours,
at least, should be allowed. The
church of Gran is close to the station.
+ Gvinagemwrken, . The road
still continues hilly, but one hour is
sufficient for the stage.
Smedshammer, j. Good road, but a
filthy station. Between Grinagermarken and Smedshammer, Route 27
to Trondhjem turns off to the N.E.,
joining the road on the western shore
of the Miosen at Krcemmerbakker,
near which there is a very remarkable
obelisk, for which see Rte. 28 : for
stations to Kroemmerbakken, see Rte.
27. From Smedshammer the Route
continues more or less close along the
fjord, and commands extensive views
over it and the surrounding moun
tains. Vast forests of fir and pine
are seen as far as the eye can range.
The frequent appearance of the snowplough, lying by the roadside, serves
to remind the traveller that the way
along which he now rolls so merrily in
his carriage will soon again become
impassable, except for sledges.
f Enger, 1J. The road still keeps
near the fjord, and the scenery be
comes more grand. On approaching
the next station a mountain torrent
from a small lake on the E. is crossed,
which makes a fine fall before it
enters the fjord.
The road continues to command
superb views over the fjord, and the
mountains on either side become stUl
bolder.
From Engen the scenery increases
in picturesque grandeur, the moun
tains become of vast height, and for
Norway.
boute 21.over THE FILLE-FJELD.
long distances quite perpendicular ;

the masses of fallen pock and debris,
with abundance of foliage, add to
the beauties of the scenery.
* + Eidsvold, 1|. Good accommo
dation and civil people. From hence
a road goes off eastwards to Mustad
in Vardal, from whence you can post
direct to Sveen in Birid, ljf m.
The road from Vasbunden to Eidsvold
is more or less along the Rands Fjord,
the whole way occasionally com
manding extensive views over it and
the surrounding mountains, and oc
casionally shut in by vast forests of
fir. There is trout and pike fishing
in the fjord, the fish running to a
large size ; the shooting is also well
spoken of in the neighbourhood of
Eidsvold, and bears may at times be
met with. The head of the Rands
Fjord is now reached. "The fjord
had gradually narrowed till it became
reduced to its feeding stream, which
we had to cross at a village called
Tonvold over a wooden bridge of a
singular and simple construction,
thrown across a foaming cataract."
Barrow's Excursions in the North of
Europe. This stream is the Dokke.
These Norwegian bridges are very
remarkable. On each side of the
stream a platform is levelled in the
rock ; solid pine trees are then laid
close together with their ends towards
the stream on these platforms of the
width of the bridge, and extending
about 3 feet over the river ; across
these, to the outer edge of them,
other trees are laidthen another
layer parallel with the first, and so on,
layer upon layer, each two projecting
an equal distance over the last, until
the span between each side is brought
to a sufficient contraction upon the
level of the road. Trees are then
laid across the span; rough planks
across form the flooring ; side-rails
are fixed, and the structure is com
plete. In the mountain districts all
the bridges are built in this primitive
but substantial way. On passing this
169
bridge the road is continued along

the grand valley of the Etnedals Elv,
which rushes onwards close along the
road-side. This is said to be a fine
sporting district feathered game
abundant, and many bears and
wolves. Some ye^rs ago a peasant
near here, when asked if there were
many trout in the Etnedals Elv, re
plied, that the people about here
never caught any, but that "an
Englishman had been there and put
some queer-looking things like flies
upon his line, and with them he took
great numbers of trout." The fact
is that angling is almost unknown in
the wilder districts of the interior,
as the peasants' time is far too
valuable, during their short summers,
to be spent in angling.
t Skoien, If. Good road.
* f Tomlevold, If. Excellent
fishing and shooting to be had all up
this valley. Bears spoken of as very
destructive in the neighbouring moun
tains. The Etnedals Elv is crossed
just before arriving at
* f Brufiadt, 1|. A good station.
Here the road quits the Etne, and
a long and desperately-steep ascent
commences ; a tolerable specimen of
still worse that will be met with on
this Route. The traveller is, how
ever, amply rewarded for his fatigue
in walking up this mountain by the
glorious views it commands to the
East. After passing for some distance
across the mountain, from the sum
mit of the western side a scene of
wondrous extent and beauty is beheld.
At the foot lies the noble Strand
Fjord (1137 feet above the sea),
winding along a deep valley, while
some snow-capped mountains in the
direction of the Hurungerne Fjeld
rear their gigantic heads in the
extreme distance. The road now
rapidly descends the mountain into
the valley of the Beina Elv, and
continues to afford splendid views all
the way to
* f Frydenlvmd, If, pay for 1j,
I
170
ROUTE 21.CHRTSTIANIA TO BERGEN.
Game is abundant about here. Road

carried near the bank of the river,
and then of the Strand Fjord, all this
stage, near the end of which the Dal
Elv is crossed.
+ Lillestrand, If. Glorious sce
nery, with the Strand Fjord on the
left nearly all the way. The peasants
about here are a remarkably fine race
of people. Somewhat of costume also
begins ; the men wear very shortwaisted jackets, with large silver
buttons and very gay waistcoats and
queerly-shaped hats. Some of the
old men are highly picturesque, with
thin white hair flowing down their
necks, and each side of the face, sur
mounted by a faded red worsted cap.
* + Olken i Slidre, If. Good
road, and a capital station. The
horses in this district are excellent,
and about half the price of those
round Christiania. The staple food
of the peasants is "grod," a kind of
Scotch porridge, made of carefullyboiled oatmeal ; mixed with milk it
is very good and exceedingly nutri
tious.
" From Olken the traveller, if he
be a good pedestrian, may venture
with a guide upon a five or six days'
excursion to the highest mountains in
Norway, the Jotumfjeld (Giant Moun
tains), part.of which are the rugged
mountains of Hurungerne. The ex
cursion is fatiguing, and not without
danger, and should not be attempted
except in settled fine weather. Ac
cording to the account given by Pro
fessor Keilhau, the best plan is to
ascend from the farm of Skreeberg
in Hurum, towards the Rauhorn to
Bituhorn, which lies \ a mile to the
north of the former ; it is 5000 feet
high ; at the foot of this is the Sceter
Chalet Hodnstolen, 3250 feet above
the level of the sea. Crossing the
bridge at the northern end of Vinstervand, you pass by Synshoin to
Hestevoldsboden, on the northern
shore of the Alpine Lake Bygdenvand, where the Mugnafjeld takes its
Norway.
rise. Passing the high Hestekampen,

and the valley*of Langsidedal, you
reach Bramboden and Bygdenvand ;
from thence you ascend to the ex
tensive Lake of Tyenvand. On pass
ing through Koldedalen (cold valley),
you get a splendid view of the Skagastblstinderne ; you then proceedthrough Morke-Kold-Dalen (the dark
cold valley), to Aardal, or Utnedal.
In Helgedal there are some good
chalets. From Utnedal you proceed
down to Hegge in Slidre, where you
rejoin the main road." For descrip
tion of pedestrian route over the
fjeld from Aardal or Utnedal to
Gudbrandsdal, see Yiig, or Laurgaard,
in Route 26.
This excursion may be made on
horseback, for almost anywhere that
a man can go a Norwegian horse
will be able to follow. The Jotum
fjeld lies to the N.W. of Olken, and
by taking the above Route this road
may be entered again at Leirdalsoren
upon the Sogne Fjord. From Olken
the road continues to ascend along
the left bank of the fjord. The
Beina Elv is crossed a little way
below the Mjos Vand, which is 1576
feet above the sea, and the road con
tinues along the right bank of that
lake for the next two stages. The
scenery is wild and grand, the moun
tains very steep, with much under
wood, which makes them a favourite
resort for bears. Feathered game is
also said to be very plentiful, and the
fishing excellent. A fine waterfall
is passed on this stage.
+ Oilbe i Vang, If. The build
ings here are grandly situated. A
very steep hill on this stage, so much
so that 3 horses are requisite with
the lightest carriage on 4 wheels.
The road is carried up the face of the
Hugakollen mountain (the summit of
which is 4230 feet high), along the
southern bank of the Mjos Vand.
The scenery is of wondrous grandeur,
and it requires good nerve to look
upon the dark waters of the lake
Norway.
ROUTE 21.
OVER THE FTIXE-FJELD.
beneath, as the road in some places

appears to overhang it. It would be
a fearful way to traverse with any
but Norwegian horses, but with them
the traveller is in safety, provided
they be not overweighted or hurried.
Great care should always be taken
to keep the fork down at the back of
a 4 -wheeled carriage on going up such
hills as this, as it at once takes all
weight off the horses when they stop
to recover their wind. Wolves are
common about here, but are rarely to
be seen except in winter. Even then
they will generally avoid a human
being, except pressed by great hunger,
and there be several together. In
the winter of 1846 a peasant, when
sledging on one. of the fjords not far
from hence, was attacked by a pack
of 6 wolves. Fortunately he had his
axe with him, and his horse was a
high-couraged animal, who fought
most gallantly with his fore-feet, as
the wolves sprang at his throat.
Between them three of the wolves
were crippled, and the time occupied
by the survivors in devouring them
enabled the man and horse to reach
a place of safety." Immediately blood
is drawn from a wolf his companions
fall upon and devour him.
+ Thnne, f, pay for 1. The road
still continues winding along the face
of the mountain a great distance
above the lake. The buildings and
costume become more picturesque.
Soon after leaving Thune, a horsetrack turns off to the left, and leads
across the mountains into Route 22,
near the Ekre station. A grand
waterfall is passed on this stage.
+ Qvame, 1 \. This station is pic
turesquely situated. Here the ascent
to the Fille-Fjeld commences, and 3
horses are again requisite for a 4wheeled carriage, be it ever so light.
There is excellent accommodation to
be had at Nystuen on the top of
the field, and Maristuen, a mile be
yond, on the descent to Hosg. These
houses are kept by two sisters, who
171
vie with each other in civility and

attention to the comfort of their
guests. Their provender is unusually
abundant and good, and the beds
clean and comfortable. Charge reason
able. From Qvame the road is fear
fully steep in many places, but the
grandeur and wildness of the scenery
amply compensate for all the fatigue
encountered. Vegetation becomes
very scanty, and stunted birch and
mountain willow almost the only
trees to be seen. The wood of the
mountain birch is beautifully veined,
and extensively used in Norway for
making ornamental and other furni
ture. The plateau of
The Fille-Fjeld
is attained some distance before ar
riving at
* + Nystuen, H, pay for 2, which
lies between two ranges of mountains,
3170 feet above the sea. The trout
at Nystuen are celebrated. They
are from a small lake (the Utza Yand)
at the foot of the post-house. It is
the source of the Beina Elv, which
eventually falls into the Christiania
Fjord. A little distance to the W.
of this place is the source of the
Leirdal Eh, a small stream, which
soon swells into a mountain torrent,
and forms innumerable falls and
cascades before it joins the S.E. arm
of the Sbgne Fjord at Leirdalsoren.
The road there from hence follows
the windings of this torrent almost
all the way.
In summer there are generally
some Laplanders in charge of a herd
of reindeer near Nystuen ; sometimes
they are to be met with in a wild
state, there being abundance of rein
deer moss on the Fille-Fjeld.
From Nystuen to LeirdalsSren the
character and costume of the people
are peculiar, and totally different
from those on the E. side of. the
fjeld. The women have fair hair,
oval faces, and soft gray eyes ; many
of them are very pretty. Their dress
172
ROUTE 21.
CHHISTIANTA TO BEEGEN.
is a tight boddice of dark cloth, but

toned up to the throat, and with long
sleeves ; cloth petticoat, generally
dark green ; buttons and ornaments
of silver. The married women wear
a white cap of very singular form.
Those women who have had a child
without leing married wear a cap
peculiar to themselves, and are called
"half wives." The maidens wear
their hair in a most becoming man
ner : it is braided with narrow bands
of red worsted, and wound round the
headthe Norwegian snood.
On leaving Nystuen, a new and ad
mirably-constructed road leads across
the rest of the plateau. A pillar on
the left marks the division of the
districts of Christiania and Bergen.
Soon afterwards* the road rapidly
descends the left side of a deep,
picturesque glen, down which the
infant Leirdals Elv bounds along.
In some places the road is a great
distance above the level of the torrent
below ; and it is scarcely possible to
say too much of the grandeur of the
scenery all the way from Qvame.
The buildings of a Soeter (mountain
pasture attached to a farm) are passed
on the left, before reaching Maristuen.
At night the cows, horses, goats, &c.',
are driven in, and, with their attend
ants, group round the fires which are
lighted to keep off the bears and
wolves. It is a wild and most pic
turesque scene.
*+ Maristuen, If, pay for
This comfortable post-house is beauti
fully situated, 2547 feet above the
sea. The skulls of bears, nailed up
over the door, evidence the skill of
the Norsk sportsmen. One of these
men had a narrow escape from a
bear near here some time since. In
hot pursuit of the beast, which he
had lost sight of, the hunter was
running down the rapid slope of a
mountain, when, coming to a small
patch of brushwood, he leaped over
it, but had no sooner done so than,
hearing a noise behind him, he
Norway.
turned, and had only just time to

raise his rifle and draw the trigger,
when the bear was upon him. For
tunately it seized the muzzle of the
rifle, which, exploding at the same
instant, blew its head to atoms.
From Maristuen the road keeps
close along the banks of the Leirdals
Elv, through a most magnificent pass ;
enormous masses of rock, in many
places, fallen from the mountains
above, add to the terrific grandeur of
the scenery and one of the wildest
districts in Norway is now entered,
abounding in legend and romance.
About midway to Ho?g the road
crosses the torrent, and soon after
the S. road from Christiania, Route
22, is passed on the left.
* t Hag, 1, pay for 1J ; a fine
waterfall near the station. On leav
ing here, caution the man who ac
companies you on the stage from
hence to stop at Borgund. The road
continues rapidly to descend, the
torrent thundering close alongside all
the way. The falls and cascades
which this stream makes between
the Fille-Fjeld and the Sogne Fjord
are most numerous, and aflbrd fine
subjects for the sketcher who delights
in this kind of scenery. Some of the
peasants' cottages are particularly
picturesque. They are built of solid
trees on foundations of rock, generally
one story high ; when more than that
a gallery is made outside. The roofs
are constructed with planks overlaid
with birch- bark, and then covered
all over with turf. The vegetation
upon these roofs is very luxuriant,
birch and alder are commonly seen
growing upon them ; and they are
favourite browsing spots for the
goats. Shortly before reaching the
next station, the church of Borgund
is seen below the road a short dis
tance off it to the left. It is one of
the two oldest buildings in Norway,
and should not be passed unseen.
The keys are kept at the clergyman's,
close by the church. This most singu
Norway.
ROUTE 21.OVER THE FILLE-FJELD.
lar and interesting edifice ' ' seems to

have been built in the 11th or 12th
century, for the arches and the apse
are semicircular, and it has all the
characters of the style of a small
German Romanesque church, so far
as it can be imitated in wood."
C. T. N. It is of very strange fan
tastic design with carved wooden
pinnacles, giving it almost a Chinese
aspect, built of Norwegian pine, and
protected from the weather by thick
coats of pitch. The nave measures
but 39 feet, the circular apse 15 + 54.
A low covered way, about 3 feet
wide, runs round the exterior of the
body of the church. The belfry is of
much more recent date, and stands
some distance apart. Views of this
church will be found in a work called
"Ancient Norwegian Churches," re
cently published at Dresden and
Leipsic, from drawings by Professor
Dahl. A church somewhat like this
existed near Leirdalsoren. It was
sold to the King of Prussia, and is
now erected in Silesia. See also the
church at Hitterdal, near Kongsberg,
in Route 23. The old road from
Borgund to Leirdalsoren was terrific,
and several frightful accidents oc
curred. An admirably-constructed
series of zigzags now enables the
traveller, with reasonable care, to
descend the face of the mountain and
reach the valley at its foot in safety.
The scenery is wildly grand.
* f Summ, |, pay for 1J. Some
very bad hills on this stage. The
road keeps the bank of the river
almost all the way, and runs through
a magnificent pass, at times so nar
row that the road is blasted out of
the face of the perpendicular rocks.
In one place it passes through a cleft
in the rock just wide enough to allow
a carriage to pass. These rocks dis
tinctly show that this road was for
merly the bed of the torrent, which
now flows 100 feet beneath, and that
some mighty convulsion must* have
split the mountain ere the stream
173
could have arrived there. In a narrow

part of the pass the road is carried
across the stream, a great distance
above it. The views from this bridge
both up and down the pass are very
line.
* Midtlyme, 1 J, pay for 1 1 . There
is very tolerable accommodation here.
The road continues along the stream,
which 'here abounds with salmon.
Numerous traps for them are seen, of
the rudest and most picturesque kind.
Habitations increase as the valley
widens, and the land becomes good
towards Leirdalsoren. Before arriv
ing at the village of Leirdal, a torrent
from the south falls into the river,
which is soon after crossed for the
last time. Many of the bridges on
this stream are very picturesque, and
truly Norwegian, being entirely con
structed of solid pine trees, in the
rudest manner.
* Leirdalsoren, 1\. Excellent
quarters. Everything very clean,
and charges reasonable. Though not
a fast station, there is seldom much
delay in getting a boat-skydse to
Gudvangen. As this inn is much
frequented, and it is small, beds
should, if possible, be ordered a day
or two in advance. This is particu
larly requisite in the latter end of
September, when there is a large fair
held here, which is attended by most
of the peasants of the surrounding
districts. Their costumes, particu
larly those of the women, are highly
picturesque.
Leirdalsoren is a capital place for
head-quarters while making excur
sions in the neighbourhood, many
of which are of the greatest interest.
It is a small town, where most things
which the traveller may require, such
as provisions, &c. , can be obtained.
Boats may be had for making excur
sions on the noble Sogne Fjord, and
its numerous branches ; and guides,
for shooting and other excursions in
the mountains, where reindeer, as
well as bears, are sometimes to be
174
ROUTE 21.
CHEISTIANIA TO BERGEN.
found ; and feathered game, including

woodcocks, is plentiful. Take nothing
with you on an excursion from hence
but what you cannot do without ; the
landlord at the inn will take care of
your heavy baggage. Look well to
your supply of provender, including
some brandy. All present at the
death of a bear or deer are entitled
to share it equally, therefore make
your bargain beforehand with those
who accompany you, if you desire
that it should be otherwise. And
beware of entrusting a second gun,
when loaded, to an attendant ; pro
mises not to use it will~be forgotten
if any large game is witJiin shot, and
after a long and anxious stalk, just
as you are arriving within range of a
splendid pair of antlers, a shot from
your guide may spoil your sport. In
stances of this have happened once or
twice to English gentlemen.
Leirdalsoren is the, best startingpoint from whence to visit some of
the grandest Alpine scenery in all
Norway, Skar/stoltind, considered
for some time to be the highest moun
tain in Norway ; but it will be seen
from the Amts Karter, that Galdhbpiggen, in the Tmes Fjeld, is 423
feet higher. Galdhd-piggen is 8300
Norse feet above the level of the sea ;
Skagstbltind 7877 ; and Sneehcetten
7300. See Vug, in Route 26, and
Koute 38. Also, the Justedal moun
tains, about 5 Norse miles N.W. of
Leirdalsoren. Carriages or carrioles
must be left here, and the land stages
traversed on foot or horseback. The
Norwegian horses may be as safely
trusted as the Swiss mules.
The Glaciers of the JustedalThe
way there is by water from Leirdal
soren to Solvorn, in the Lyster Fjord,
2 1, and thence on to Ronneid, lg,
good quarters ; thence to Myklemyr
in Justedal, 2 m., where horses and a
guide to the glacier can be obtained,
2 m. There is a good inn at Riinneid,
but dear. A very tolerable bridleroad leads up the valley, and the dis
Norway.
tance may generally be done in 4

hours, exclusive of stoppages. A
guide is not necessary, for when once
put in the way, the traveller cannot
easily make a mistake. The track is
along the bank of the Justedal River,
running through the narrow winding
valley of that name. Indifferent ac
commodation may be obtained in
Krondal at the foot of the Nygaard
Glacier. There is no station, but a
lodging at a gaard is generally to be
had. At the Rectory some way lower
down the valley the clergyman is most
hospitable. " On leaving the Rectory
and ascending the magnificent pass
there for about 1 mile, you arrive at
the finest of the glaciers, Nygaard.
It is seen on the left ; and near to
the glacier there is a farm where a
peasant can be procured to act as
guide. I found it impossible to walk
on. the ice without spiked shoes. The
Justedal River flows from the glacier,
bringing down with it vast quantities
of detritus, which whitens the fjord
for about two or three miles from the
spot where it flows in. It took me
rather more than six hours to ride
from the Rectory to the glacier, as
well as to inspect it and return. I
slept at the Rectory, and rode back
to Riinneid the next morning. I was
told that the mountains could be tra
versed from the valley of Justedal to
Lomb, on the Vaage Vand, N.E. of
Justedal, and that the journey would
take one day from the Rectory."
S. C.
The glacier of Nygaard, with a
course of less than 4 miles, has a
breadth of 1000 or 1100 yards, ac
cording to Durocher.
Beyond the Nygaard Glacier, fur
ther up the Justedal Valley, there are
other glaciers, and the stupendous
mountain of Lodals-Kaabe, 6798 feet
high, with its wild dreary scenery, is
reached. " The glacier of Lodal is
the largest in Norway, its estimated
length being 54 Eng. m., and its
greatest breadth above 800 yards.
Norway.
route 21.the sogne fjord, etc.
This is Durocher's estimation."

Forbes' Norway, p. 224, which see
for further information on the glaciers
of Norway. To the artist this region
of the Justedal affords numerous sub
jects of the grandest description of
Alpine scenery, many of the peaks of
the mountains being covered with per
petual snow. The dwellings of the
peasants in this wild region are few,
and those of the poorest description.
Bears are often to be found in the
neighbourhood of the Justedal, as
well as reindeer in the Sogne Fjeld,
upon the W., and feathered game is
said to be abundant.
Routes from Justedal. On return
ing to Rbnneid the route can be varied
by taking boat to Marificerenfrom
thence ride 1 mile to Hillestad, and
another to Nogeloien, where one of
the steepest hills in Norway was for
merly descended, but it is now con
verted into an excellent road ; at
mile further, either on horseback or
by water, leads to Sogne lalsfioeren,
where there is good accommodation
at the station-house. From thence
back to Leirdalsoren is 4^ ms. by
water. To Gudvangen 4J. And
down the fjord to Bergen about 18.
Again from Nygaard, a little north
of Justedal, a horse-track leads across
the mountains to the Faleidet station,
on the high road between Bergen and
Molde, Route 24. Or, from Nygaard
another horse-track leads along the
bank of a torrent to the N.E., and,
after crossing the ridge of the moun
tain, descends to the north, and pass
ing the Lia Vand leads into a splen
did valley, which opens into Gudbrandsdal at Laurgaard, in Route 26.
Soon after passing Horgven, and be
fore coming to the head of the Vaage
Vand, another horse-track leads due
N. into the grand valley of Romsdalen.
See Routes 30 and 38, on the high
road to Molde. No one must venture
on taking either of these tracks who
cannot support fatigue and the rough
est food and lodging. Those who can
175
do so will be amply repaid. The fol

lowing is a description of the scene
from the mountains at the head of
Justedalen :
' ' Never shall I forget the view
which then burst upon us ; I can only
compare it to some of the wildest I
have seen of Lapland or Siberia, but
it was still wilder and more desolate
than those. A precipitous rock, or
rather an abrupt mountain side, sunk
beneath me, and far below, on my
right, was a wide sea-green lake,
bordered by snowy ridges and peaks
which overhung its waters ; and a
cluster of small specks in the distance,
which my guide told me were a herd
of reindeer, added interest to the
scene. In front rose the Lodals
Kaabe, the loftiest mountain of the
range, to a height of many thousand
feet, between which and the point
where I stood was a ravine filled by a
huge glacier, and on my left was the
vale of Justedal. The stream which
rushes through it issues by a cataract
from the lake,, which is, I believe,,
called Stug So."MilforoVs Norway,
p. 237.
For the Sogne Fjeld, see Route 38,
from Leirdalsoren across these moun
tains and others to Romsdalen.
The Sogne Fjord.This enormous
fjord runs upwards of 120 Eng. m.
inland. It has several extensive
branches, each of which has its own
name ; of these the Lyster Fjord and
Aardals Fjord, upon the N. of Leir
dalsoren, offer a variety of interesting
excursions to the lover of Alpine
scenery ; but it requires the exercise
of some nerve to trust oneself across
the fragile bridges and along the nar
row footpaths, with apparently unfa
thomable abysses and roaring torrents
below. Proceeding from Leirdalsoren
up the Lyster Fjord and its branch,
The Aardals Fjord, one of the
dreariest mountain defiles is that of
the Vettie Gielen. From Aardal you
first proceed by the little lake of Aardalsvand about \ mile, then through
"
176
ROUTE 21.
CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN.
Norway.
the valleys of Fardal and Svarlemdal. rect way to the Voring-fos from Leir
Near Farnds, in the neighbourhood of dalsbren.
the farm of Vee, there is a fine water
In the Outer Sogne Fjord the scene
fall, issuing from Rosdal, a small of " Frithiofs Saga" may be visited.
lateral valley. About 4 a mile fur Vangnoes, where good accommodation
ther on is the farm of Jelde, where may be procured, is generally consi
the stupendous defile, or mountain dered to be the Framnoes of the Saga,
chasm, named Gielen, commences. the birthplace and residence of
Here also there is a considerable wa Frithiof. In calm weather it takes
terfall close to the farm. About J about 8 hours to row from Leirdal
mile from Jelde is the little valley of sbren to Vangnoes in a 6-oared boat,
Afdal, the waters of which, descend and 12 to return. Balestrand is the
ing from the wild chain of the Hu- site of the temple of Baldur, burnt by
rungerne mountains, precipitate them Frithiof. Near the church of Leselves in foaming torrents, forming kanger there is a Bauta-stone, 21 feet
sometimes a succession of waterfalls, in height, called Baldur's Stone.
at others extensive rapids. About f Some point this out as the birthplace
mile from Jelde you come to the last of Frithiof.
The Sogne Fjord and its branches
farm in the Gielen, called Vettie.
From this point excursions may be abound in waterfalls and cascades,
made to the still wilder scenery the scenery generally is grand, but
around the Jotumfield, but these sombre. In all the tributary streams
must not be undertaken without an there are salmon wherever they can
get up. There is good wild-fowl
experienced guide.
The Aurlands Fjord is another shooting on this fjord. Seals are also
branch of the Sbgne Fjcrd. It lies to frequently seen here.
the S.W. of Leirdalsbren, and sepa
Route to Bergen continued from
rates into two large branches ; that to Leirdalsbren. A steamer runs from
the S. E. leads to the valley of Flaam Bergen to Leirdalsbren on Tuesdays at
and its waterfall, and is well worthy 8 p.m., and returns from Leirdalsbren
the attention of the contemplative or on Wednesday mornings. If it be not
artistic tourist. The numerous Bauta- the steamer's day, those who desire to
stones to be met with afford evidence proceed by water to Bergen must hire
of many well-contested battles having a boat at Leirdaleoren. There are
been fought there. Proceeding fur water stations all the way, and the
ther up through Kaardal to the farm distance is about 20 Norsk miles.
of Kleven, you enter the wild and The stations from Leirdaltoren are
picturesque region of the Sverrestein, Fresvig in Leganger, 3 m. by water ;
through which King Sverre, in the Fedjos, H ; Vangsnces, | ; Quamso,
beginning of his reign, effected his | ; and Kirkebo, 2|, all by water.
hazardous and bold retreat toward [From Kirkebo there is a route north
Hallingdal and Valders. At Kleven wards to Sondfjord, where Route 24
the horse-track up the valley sepa (Bergen to Trondhjem) can be joined.
rate;: one leads to the S.W., down Vadem, J by water ; Sande, lj by
the valley of the Rundals Elv, and land ; Lageland, 1 ditto, on Route
joins this Route again at Yossevangen 24.] But if the traveller wishes to go
station ; the other runs across the to Bergen he must continue down the
mountains to the S.W., and com fjord from Kirkebo to Leervik, about
mands splendid views over the Har- 2 m., and there join Route 24. The
danger Fjord, the most N.E. branch time occupied by the voyage will of
of which, the Ouse Fjord, is reached course much depend on the wind.'
near the Ouse. This is the most di At Leirdalsbren, as well as all the
Norway,
boute 21.gudvangen.
other water stations in Norway, the

boats are under the management of
the station-master, so that each boat
has its regular turn of duty. Car
riages and carrioles have their wheels
taken off before being embarked, and
the same boat takes the passengers.
There is no convenience whatever for
embarking and disembarking carriages
upon these fjords. With carrioles
there is no difficulty, from their being
so light, but 4-wheeled carriages oc
casion much trouble and delay, for
fear of accidents in getting them in
and out of the boats. Carriages are
so seldom used here that the boatmen
require much attention to prevent
damage being done. These boats are
furnished with a large sail ; great care
should be taken not to allow the sheet
to be fixed, but to have it kept in
hand, so that it may be let go in
stantly, as the gusts from the moun
tains are sudden and dangerous.
The passage to Gudvangen depends
upon the wind, and averages from 6
to 12 hours. Look to the provender
before starting, as there is nothing to
be had en route. When sending a
Forbud on these long water stages so
much depends on the wind, that it is
impossible accurately to calculate the
time of arrival. The best plan, there
fore, is upon the Forbud paper to
order the horses to await your arrival,
at whatever hour it may be, and state
that they will be paid for accordingly.
Without this precaution, they would
leave as soon as their time was up.
About half-way to Gudvangen, on
a bluff to the left, at the mouth of
Awrlands Fjord, is Fronningen, a
small village, at which the crew, if
rowing, sometimes pull up to make an
attack on their provision boxes. Too
much cannot be said in praise of the
'scenery upon this truly grand fjord
the whole voyage forms a moving
panorama of the finest description.
In many places the dark mountains
rise perpendicularly from the water to
an enormous height, upwards of 5000
feet, and are very picturesque in form.

Numerous waterfalls are passed, and
the atmospheric effects are splendid.
About midway up the Aurlands Fjord,
a branch of it, the NcerOem Fjord,
runs to the S.W. (which is our way),
and the scenery increases in grandeur
as the water narrows towards the
head of the fjord. The boatmen will
generally stop several hundred yards
below the Inn at Gudvangen, unless
made to row up to it ; they expect a
gratuity of about, i or 6 skillings each
beyond their fare.
* Gudvangen, 4f. Comfortable
quarters. This place is situated in a
very deep and dark narrow valley,
closed in by mountains of immense
height. Opposite the station, high
up the face of the mountain, may be
seen the Keel-foa, a fall of 2000 feet,
but the body of water is small. Good
salmon-fishing in the stream up this
valley, and shooting in the mountains
around.
Those who in coming from Bergen
desire to proceed from hence direct to
the Jnstedal Glaciers (see Leirdalsoren) can do so. The distance by the
water stations from hence to Kbnneid
is 74 m. And hence to Skjolden, in
Route 38, over the Sbyne Fjeld, is
8 m.
Soon after leaving Gudvangen the
road crosses the river, and continues
along this most grand and picturesque
valley till all further progress is appa
rently precluded by the mountain
which rises abruptly at the head of
it. This is, however, ascended by a
long series of zigzags. A fine water
fall is passed on the left, and near
the end of the stage a torrent is seen
to the right, which makes a grand
fall at its junction with the Gudvangen
stream. The zigzags up this moun
tain, as well as those on the other side
of Leirdalsoren, near Borgund, were
constructed by a Norwegian officer,
Captain Finne, and they are works of
which any engineer might be justly
proud.
178
ROUTE 21.
CH1U8TIAN1A TO BERGEN.
Norway.
Stalheim, 1|. Poor accommoda trouble, and expense, by leaving

tion. The view down the Gudvangen their heavy baggage and carriage, or
valley from hence is very fine. Some carriole, there, and riding the land
little distance off the road, on the N. stages on horsel>ack ; the same is ad
from this station, there is another fine visable even if they should go down
waterfall of 1000 feet^the Serle- the Hardanger Fjord, and return to
fos. This stage runs on very high Vossevangen by the direct road. Take
ground much broken, and with a good care to replenish the provision basket
deal of wood and heather, old trees, before leaving Vossevangen.
The Voring-fos. The road there
and masses of rock, highly picturesque.
from Vossevangen is to the S.E. by
Good shooting about here.
Vinje, 1. During all this stage the way of Orre- Vasenden, 2 m. by
scenery continues vry fine. A lovely land ; Graven, J by water ; Ulrik,
stream, near which the road runs all 1J by land. This is impracticable
the way, is twice crossed. Just be for carrioles, and must be walked.
fore reaching the next station a fine Dlvik is on the Hardanger Fjord.
waterfall of considerable height is Thence down the Ulvik Fjord, and up
seen on the right ; the water is sepa Eid Fjord to Vile, 2 m. by water.
rated into two falls, and then split into This can be done in one day from
a succession of smaller ones, forming Vossevangen. About half a mile
one of the most picturesque objectsof beyond Vik, the Eid-fjord Vand is
the kind that it is possible to imagine. crossed to Soebo, from whence the"
Tvinden, J. Still a succession of ascent to the Voring-fos is com
glorious scenery, but the mountains menced. From Vik to the Eid-fjord
gradually become less wild, and more Lake is through a deep valley, shut in
like Westmoreland. Several small by towering mountains. Beyond the
lakes are passed on the left, and the lake up to the Voring-fos the road is
road, at length, descends into the only practicable for horses, which may
lovely valley of the Rundah Eh, near either be taken across in the boat,
or obtained, together with a guide
the head of the Vangs Fjord at
* Vossevangen, 1. Good accommo (who is essential), at Longrei, or
dation. This is an excellent resting- Soebo. In any case much delay will
place and starting-point, from whence be saved by sending Forbud from
to visit the Hardanger Fjord, and Y6- Vossevangen to bespeak horses, boats,
ring-fos, the Glaciers of the Folge- and guide. From Vik to the fos is
fond, and the Ostud-fos, and from about 1 or \\ Norse mile.
' ' Some distance from the landingthence goingdown the fjord to Bergen ;
or returning here and going on there by place on the Eid-fjord Lake, the path
this Route. The Voring-fos lies some becomes rugged, and, bending to the
distance from the head of the Har left, proceeds up the wild valley of
danger Fjord, about 7 m. S.E. of Syssendal, twice crossing in its course
Vossevangen. The Glacier of the the rapid torrent by frail and unstable
Folge-fond is about 6 miles nearly due wooden bridges. It then reaches a
S. of Vossevangen, and half-way very steep acclivity, which is ascended
down the Hardanger Fjord, on the by a rough, winding, zigzag track,
left bank. The Ostud-fos is on the in some cases a mere staircase formed
opposite side of the fjord.
by blocks of gneiss, but which is"
The distances by water in making practicable for the horses of the
these excursions are so long, and the country. On arriving at the summit
stages practicable even for carrioles so (probably 800 or 1000 feet above the
few, that those who intend returning valley), a moor is traversed for up
to Vossevangen will save much time, wards of an Eng. mile, from which a
Norway.
BOUTE 21.
THE OSTUD-FOS.
179
fine view is obtained of the snowy scarcely broader than itself. The
Normandsjbheln (on the N.E., 5500 body of water is, perhaps, equal to
feet high). A deviation is then made that of the Handek in Switzerland,
to the left of the path, and a few It is the highest waterfall in Europe
minutes' walk across some marshy (except that of ftavernie in the
moss ground brings the traveller to Pyrenees,) and the Lion of Norway."
the left bank of the river, and to the Letters from the North of Europe.
Voring-fos; but the fall is so deeply
Mr. Everest visited this fall in the
seated in a narrow ravine, that the middle of March. He says, "It was
traveller is quite close to it before he now falling within a case of ice.
is made aware of its proximity by the Opposite the spot where I was stand
sound or other circumstances, and a ing extended a broad framework of
stranger without a guide might possi icicles, reaching from the top to the
bly search for it in vain. The height bottom. It could not be less than
of the fall is said to be 900 feet, and 1000 feet high, green and glittering."
the descent of the very considerable Journey through Norway, p. 287.
There are two other grand falls,
body of water seems to be unbroken,
but it is a difficult and perilous task which are scarcely known to tourists ;
to attain a complete view from the they are a little to the N. of the Vo
dizzy point where the spectator is ring-fos, namely, the Skyttie-fos, 700
placed. This point is about 100 or feet high, and the Eembiedals-fos. A
150 feet above the top of the fall, but small ridge of mountain lies between
the cliffs on the opposite side are each of these falls. The streams
more than double that elevationabove from the two last unite, and flowing
the commencement of the fall ; so down Simedal enter the N. E. part of
that if the height be rightly esti the Eid Fjord.
mated, the precipices on the right
The time occupied in going from
bank must be 1100 or 1200 feet Vik to the Voring-fos and returning
above the level of the river imme must very much depend on the
diately beneath the fos. The rocks amount of fatigue the traveller
near the fall are so vertical, that there can endure. For a good walker 3
are no trees whatever on their faces, or 4 hours are sufficient to go in, and
and it is only at a little distance that the same to return. The accommoda
the occurrence of ledges on the es tion at Vik is not particularly good.
On returning from the falls, the
carpments admits of a sprinkling of
birches. A descent to the bottom, way may be varied by making a
which is a work of time and difficulty, detour to the S.E., ascending the
does not repay the labour, as the view mountains and returning to the Eid
of the fall is partially obstructed by Fjords Vand by the valley of Hielmiie, where there are several smaller
a projecting rock."T. J. T.
The best view of the fall may be but beautiful waterfalls.
The Voring-fos to the Riukan-fos.
obtained from the cliff on the north
bank, that is, the opposite side to the See the latter in Route 23. '
The Ostud-fos is in Steindalen,
usual point of view. To reach this
the river must be crossed above the near the village of Vikor, on the N.
fall, if there is a boat to be met with. side of the Hardanger Fjord, and
There is sometimes one attached to opposite the range of the Folge-fond.
In going from the Viiring-fos to the
a sceter.
Mr. Elliott, in speaking of the Vo Ostud-fos, the best plan is to return
to
Vik, and from thence go down the
ring-fos, says, ' ' The river falls per
pendicularly, without a single contact Hardanger Fjord to Utne, 2 m., and
with the rock, 900 feet into a valley from there to Vikor, 2J. The fall ia
180
EOUTE SI.CHEISTIANIA TJ BERGEN.
not far distant from the station. The

Ojtud-fos is one of the most cele
brated falls in Norway. "The height
of the fall is 700 feet, and the
volume of water immense. The
water falls perpendicularly 400 feet
upon a ridge of the mountain, from
whence it foams in cascades over vast
pieces of rock into the valley. I stood
under the fall, upon a projecting piece
of rock, and the mass of water, as it
fell over the protruding ridge above,
produced a beautiful rainbow. The
view of the fjord from the mountain
above the fall is splendid."MS.
Journal.W. H. R.
In going from the Oitud-fos by the
nearest way to Bergen, a horse-path
leads up Steindalen and across the
mountains to the head of Samnanger
Fjord, a branch of the Bjiirne Fjord,
and proceeding down these waters,
Route 24 is entered at the Hatvigen
station near Bergen.
The Glacier of the Paige-fond.
The ascent can be made either from
Jondal, 1 m. from Vikor, on the op
posite side of the fjord, or from Bond
huus, in the Morang Fjord, some
miles further down. Horses and
guides to the glacier may be obtained
either at Jondal, or at Bondhuus ;
and at the latter comfortable accom
modation will be found at the farm
house of John Bondhuus.
"The Folge-fond is the most im
portant glacier-bearing fjeld of Nor
way. According to Hertzberg, Smith,
and Naumann, the highest portion of
the fjeld falls short of 5460 Eng.
. feet, which seems irreconcilable with
the statements of Hertzberg and Von
Bnch, placing the snow line only 220
feet lower. The dimensions of the
snowy and icy surface are irreconcilable
with the supposition of so small a
height for its supply. There are
several small outfalls of ice on the
east side, of which the chief is the
glacier of Buer, which descends to
1000 feet (according to Captain Biddulph) ; another, and smaller, is near
Norway.
the hamlet of Moge on the Siir

Fjord. But the most majestic outlet
by far of the icy surplus is on the
south-west, forming the fine glacier of
Bondhuus, which descends to within
1120 feet of the sea level."Forhei
Norway, p. 221.
If desirous of crossing the penin
sula of the Folge-fond from Bond
huus, go to Ovrehuus, and sleep ;
thence pedestrians with a good guide
can cross to Odde (Route 23) on
the east side of Sor Fjord, in 4 or
5 m.
The IIardangerFjord. Thisunique
and magnificentfjordand its branches,
in addition to the scenery before de
scribed, abounds in cascades and water
falls. The salmon fishing is good on
all the tributary streams to the Hardanger, where the fish can get up.
Wild fowl of all kinds abound in the
Hardanger Fjord, and woodcock,
ptarmigan, &c, in the surrounding
mountains. "It is curious here to
see the pertinacity with which the
skua gull (called in Norwegian tyvfugl, thief bird) pursues the smaller
kind of gull when they have caught
a fish, hunt them till they drop it
from their beaks, and catch it in mid
air as it falls. The skua gulls always
feed in this way : they never fish for
themselves."MS. Journal, W. E.
C. N.
Route to Bergen continued from
Vossevangen. The road is carried
along the N. bank of the Vangs
Vand, which resembles Windermere
the scenery becomes of a softer char
racter, and numbers of waterfalls are
seen in the MUs, on both sides of the
lake.
Plage, f. From hence the road
leads down a valley of lovely pastoral
character, with mountains gradually
rising on either side, and clothed witn
verdure to their summits ; two small
lakes are passed on the left, and the
road then follows the windings of the
Rundah Elv, which is here a large
Norway.
ROUTE 21.EVANGEB, ETC.
.and rapid stream, abounding with

salmon. It connects the lakes passed
with that at Evanger, and eventually
enters the Bergen Fjord.
* Evanger, \. The accommodation
is good ; but the charges too high. It
is rare to meet with instances of this
description in Norway ; here it is
probably owing to the influence of
rich yachting Englishmen coming
from Bergen, and who are so unfair
to other travellers as to pay whatever
they are charged, and thus spoil the
people. This station is beautifully
situated at the head of the Evanyer
Vand. There is a delightful walk
through the hills, directly opposite
the house ; the path will be readily
found by walking round the head of
the lake. Great numbers of salmon
are taken about here with nets ; this
place is a depot for them when dried ;
also for pickled herrings. Both are
excellent. The Rundals Elv- enters
the lake close to this station. Trout
run large, and are abundant in this
stream.
Those who sleep at Evanger and
desire to reach Bergen in one day,
must start very early in the morning
to do so. The time occupied by the
journey is uncertain, as so much de
pends on the windunder the most
favourable circumstances it takes a
long day, and, with a 4-wheeled car
riage, fully 3 hours more must be
allowed than with a carriole, so much
time beingoccupiedingetting it in and
out of the boats, which is done by the
main strength of the boatmen, there
not being the slightest convenience for
the purpose. Look to the provender
you must have with you for the day,
as the accommodations en route are
wretched, except at the next station,
Bolstadoren.
The Evanger Vand is but a short
distance from the most eastern branch
of the Bergen Fjord, into which its
waters flow : it is small, narrow, and
winding, but the mountains around it
are very grandtheir rocky sides rise
181
almost perpendicularly from the

water, while thousands of stunted
birch and pine cling wherever there is
the smallest hold for their gnarled
roots. The slopes of debris are oc
cupied as little farms, the moun
tains above and around, in most
cases, being so steep as to preclude
all access to them except from the
water. These habitations are fear
fully dangerous, particularly in the
spring, after a severe winter, when
avalanches of rock come thundering
down the mountains, sweeping every
thing before them. Instances of this
kind have occurred in Norway, where
a whole village has been swept away.
On arriving at the foot of the lake,
if ordered in time, horses will be in
readiness for the \ m. by land, which
forms the rest of this stage. The
road is alongside a fine salmon stream,
the last portion of the Kundals Elv,
and which connects the Evanger Lake
with the Bergen Fjord.
* Bolstadoren, \. \ by water,
and \ land. Grood accommodation :
salmon and trout fishing about here
well spoken of. Those who are
going to Bergen will do well to sleep
here instead of at Evanger, as they
will be more sure of reaching Bergen
in one day. From hence a boat can
be taken to Bergen direct. The voy
age is sometimes made in 8 or 10
hours. Pursuing the land route from
Bolstadoren, down the Bergen Fjord
to the next land station, this branch
of it (the Bolstad Fjord) is narrow
and winding, but the scenery sub
lime. No wonder that these dark
and fathomless fjords abound in wild
legendsthey look the paradise of
water-spirits. In some parts the
mountains literally overhang the
water.
Dalseidet, ^. Road leads through
a wild rugged country to the next
water station, which is upon the
Sbnden Otter Fjord at
I Dale, f. There is no shelter to be
[ had here except the shed under which
182
ROUTE 21.
the spare gear for the boats is laid up

a desolate spot, and not a dwelling
to be seen. This stage usually takes
6 or 8 hours, according to the wind.
After proceeding down a small branch
of the fjord the main line is entered
and continued for the rest of the
waythe mountains very grand the
whole distance, and in numerous
places rising quite perpendicularly
from the waterthe strata of many
of them twisted in the most curious
way. Numerous waterfalls are
passed, some of them on a grand
scale. No one can form a just idea
of Norwegian scenery without visiting
some of the sublime fjords on the W.
coast. Nothing would be more easy
than to construct roads along them,
but the cost would be enormous, as
they must be chiefly blasted out of
the solid rock, and will therefore in
all probability never be made. Win
ter, as before observed, is the season
when the natives travel ; these fjords
and lakes are then frozen, and tra
versed upon sledges with great
rapidity. In the spring, when the
ice becomes too thin to bear, it is tre
mendous work forcing a passage
through in a boat, as is sometimes
done. The boatmen in Norway pull
slowly, but with great steadiness and
surprising endurance. The large Is
land of Osterben, forms the W. side of
the fjord, and not a single habitation
to be seen upon it for a long distance
here and there a boat is moored ;
and looking up the mountain, peasants
may be seen making hay on small
patches of d6bris where the slope is
so rapid that a single false step would
plunge them into the fjord 1000 feet
below them. Goats abound here.
The eastern side is thinly scattered
with small farms, and looks a fine
shooting country. Game is said to be
abundant. The mountains gradually
decrease in height on approaching
Garnces, 2. This stage runs over
a fine broken picturesque moorland,
with mountains looming in the dis
BERGEN.
Norway.
tance. In fine weather, on the S. E.

the glaciers of the Folge-fond are
visible about 50 Eng. m. distant.
The scenery on this stage, in some
places, much resembles Borrodale and
other parts of Cumberland.
Heldal, If. Two bad hills on this,
stage, and, on the whole, an admirable
example of the up and down road
constructed by the Norwegian farmers,
who appear always to prefer going
over the crown of a hill instead of
along its side. The Bcenery continues
lovely, with bold hills and numerous
coppice woods of birch and alder. The
first view of Bergen is obtained from
a hill about an Eng. m. from the
town, and the traveller should pause
here to see it. It is beautifully situ
ated, surrounded on three sides by
mountains, and the fourth open to
the fjord, with islands of lofty hills in
the extreme distance. Numbers of
neat villas, timber-built, and mostly
painted white, are passed before ar
riving at the old entrance gate of the
town.
Bergen, 1 J. (Here Route 24 round
the coast is joined.)Inns: Hotel
Scandinavie (Madame Friis) is very
good, but generally full during sum
mer. Hotel du Nord, near the above,
small, but comfortable, and much
civility. Rooms with 2 beds 40 skillings ; breakfast, 16 sk. each; din
ner, 30 ; tea, 16. There are also
several private houses where travellers
are received ; that said to be most
frequented by the English is kept by
a Mrs. Sontum ; charges about 1 sp.d.
per diem for board and lodging. Very
comfortable lodgings are to be had at
Mr. Pellot's, a confectioner's. These
houses have the advantage of being
cheaper and quieter than the hotels.
The Hotels Scandinavie and du Nord
are both on the high ground on the
S. side of the harbour ; and in the
street beneath, called the Strandgaden, running parallel with them and
the port, is the post-office; near to
which is the steam-boat office, and
Norway.
ROUTE 21. BERGEN.
also the counting-house of Messrs.

Alexander Grieg and Son, who act as
agents to several of the London bank
ers, and will cash circular notes and
bills drawn on letters of credit. Do
not omit replenishing the purse with
a stock of small money ; it is difficult
to obtain it except at the Bank, which
is only open from 9.30 to 10 in the
morning, or at the post-office. Mr.
Alexander Grieg is British Vice-Consul
here, and most kind and obliging to
all who seek his advice and aid, which
is highly valuable in this little-fre
quented but magnificent district.
Those desiring to meet the steamer
here, or at Christiania, should not
delay going to the office to ascertain
the times of departure, and arranging
to leave this place accordingly. Should
the office not be open, which it rarely
is, except on the day the boat comes
in, the manager may generally be
found at the Bourse near the office.
If travellers land or embark a carriage
here, they should personally see to its
being properly done, as . the people
are sadly clumsy, being little used to
handle anything heavier than a car
riole. There is a crane on the quay,
for the use of which, in landing or
embarking a carriage, a small fee is
payable. Look over carriage and
harness, &c, carefully, and have
damages repaired. Trust not to
others, but see to it personally, as
Norsk workmen are slow and require
much looking after to keep them to
their work.
Those who land here and want a
servant, or to hire or buy a boat, or
carriole, will do best in the first in
stance to apply to Mr. Grieg for his
advice on the subject. Advertisements
are very cheap, and often save much
trouble in finding out what may be
wanted. For information as to price
of carrioles, &c, see Christiania, and
preliminary information, "Modes of
Travelling." Carrioles are somewjiat
cheaper here than at Christiania ;
horses considerably so.
183
The city of Bergen was founded in

the year 1069 or 1070, by King Olaf
Kyrre, who made it the second city in
his dominions. Shortly after its
foundation, in consequence of the ad
vantageous position of its harbour,
and the privileges given to the mer
chants of the Hanseatic League, who
had erected a factory there, it became
the first city in the kingdom. This
pre-eminence it maintained down to
the last few years ; its trade is even
now greater than that of Christiania:
but as that capital, since the separa
tion from Denmark, has become the
seat of government, and also of the
University, it has rapidly increased
in trade and importance, while Bergen
has remained almost stationary.
The population of Bergen is about
25, 000 ; prior to the last war it was
considerably greater.
Previous to the Calmar Union, Ber
gen was the theatre of several remark
able events. In the year 1135 King
Magnus was taken prisoner in this
city, and his eyes put out by Harald
Gille, one of the competitors for the
throne, who the year following was
himself murdered in the same place.
In the year 1164 King Magnus Erlingson was crowned here by the papal
legate, and in the century following
King Kakon and his son were likewise
enthroned here. The plague which
made such fearful ravages in Norway
first made its appearance in this city.
In the years 1600, 1618, 1629, and
1637, Bergen was again visited by
this dreadful scourge. In the year
1665, during the war between Eng
land and Holland, the Earl of Sand
wich pursued the Dutch under the
command of Admiral van Bitter into
the harbour of Bergen, but was obliged
to retire, the Dutch being protected
by the fortifications of the town.
Several of the shots fired by the Eng
lish are still to be seen in the walls
of the fortress, the cathedral, and
other places.
The English were the first who
181
ROUTE 21.
traded with Bergen ; in the year

1217 King Hakon Hakonson concluded
a treaty of commerce with England.
This treaty is the more remarkable,
as it is the first compact of the kind
which England entered into with any
foreign nation. The English continued
to pursue the trade with but indiffer
ent success until the year 1435, when
they were driven from Bergen, and a
monopoly granted to the Hanseatic
League, who formed a large establish
ment here, and carried on a very
prosperous trade until the middle of
the last century, when the monopoly
was abolished, and the port thrown
open to all foreigners. In the year
1763 the last buildings belonging to
the Hanseatic League were sold, and
from that period the trade, being un
fettered, has considerably increased.
The principal trade of Bergen at
present is the export of stock-fish
(dried cod), oil obtained from the
livers of cod, and herrings. The take
of fish on the W. coast of Norway
may be judged of by the fact that
Bergen alone usually exports about
2,000,000 specie dollars' worth of
stock-fish ; 20,000 barrels of cod-fish
oil, divided into first, second, and
third qualities ; and from 400, 000 to
600,000 barrels of herrings, which
are chiefly pickled. The stock-fish
mostly goes to the ports of the Medi
terranean, the herrings to the Baltic,
and the cod-fish oil to all parts of
Europe. The cod are usually very
fat when caught ; they are immedi
ately gutted, and the livers thrown
into barrels, the oil which gradually
rises to the surface is then skimmed
off; this is of the first and purest
quality, and called "blanc;" it is
used for lamp oil and dressing and
currying leather, as well as medi
cinally for consumptive and scrofulous
cases ; the second and third qualities,
brown blanc and brown, are obtained
by boiling the refuse, and used ex
clusively for dressing and currying
leather. In the months of March
BERGEN.
Norway,
and April, when the large squarerigged yachts (Juegts) laden with fish
from Loft'oden and Finmark arrive,
the town presents a busy and ani
mated appearance ; the harbour is
frequently crowded with from 600 to
700 vessels of 70 to 200 tons burden,
besides larger foreign vessels waiting
to ' receive their cargoes from them.
There are two great arrivals of these
Jcegts in Bergan, one in spring,
another later in the summer, when
100 or more come in at a time.
There are also some manufactories
in the neighbourhood, but they are
not of any note.
The fortress of Bergen-huus, which
commands the entrance to the har
bour, is irregularly constructed. It
consists of three bastions and a rave
lin towards the town, and three bas
tions and two batteries towards' the
sea ; it was erected by Olaf Kyrre,
the founder of the city, and, previous
to the union with Denmark, was the
residence of those Norwegian kings
who made Bergen their capital. Prior
to the introduction of artillery it was
considered impregnable. On the op
posite side of the harbour there is also
a strong fort.
Previous to the Reformation Bergen
contained 32 churches and convents ;
there now remain but five, the Ca
thedral, Cross Church (Korskirken),
New Church (Nye Kirken), the Hos
pital Church, and the German or St.
Mary's Church ; this last is the most
ancient, and is spoken of by Snorro
as existing in the year 1181; it is
also the most interesting. This church
is situated near the entrance gate on
the N. side of the port, and is distin
guished from all the others by its
having two towers. The singing there
is very good. The altar-piece is of
high antiquity, and a very elaborate
and fine specimen of the carving of
the period at which it was executed.
It is probably of Dutch workmanship.
There are also several other fine speci
mens of carving. The font is a flying
Norway.
route 21..
angel, carved and coloured the size of

life, the basin held in the extended
hands. This figure is lowered from
the roof immediately in front of the
altar. The pictures are numerous,
but without excellence. The Cathedral
is passed on the right on entering the
town from Christiania. The Sacra
ment is administered there every Fri
day morning ; there is much chanting
in the service ; the priest is dressed
in a surplice and large ruff, and wears
a rich and highly-embroidered scarlet
mantle over the surplice, with a large
crucifix worked on the back.
The Cathedral school is a handsome
new building near the cathedral. The
poet Welhaven, and Dahl the artist,
are natives of Bergen, and were both
educated at this school. Holberg, the
dramatist, and Ole Bull, were like
wise born here. There are also seve
ral charitable 'and scientific institu
tions in the town. The Hanoverian
consul here is said to have a good col
lection of pictures.
The Gallery of the Konst-Forening
(Art Union) is at the Cathedral
School, and may be seen. It contains
several pleasing specimens of native
art. The best picture is by Jensen,
now residing in Munich. It repre
sents a Norwegian sea king endea
vouring to save a Greek lady from
being carried off. The figures are of
the size of life and most carefully
drawn ; great truth and force in the
expression of the heads, and the co
lour unusually rich and transparent
for a northern artist. There are also
some very pleasing landscapes by an
artist named Duntze ; he resides in
Bergen, near the Hotel du Nord ; and
those who desire to possess a souvenir
of Norwegian scenery cannot do better
than to purchase one of his pictures.
His prices are very moderate ; he ex
cels in winter scenes.
The Museum comprises a collection
of northern and other antiquities,
which have been found in tumuli,
chiefly in the neighbourhood of Vosse,
MUSEUM.
185
pictures, and a cabinet of natural

history. The most interesting portion
of the museum is the small collection
of northern antiquities, comprising
sepulchral urns, arms, &c. There are
likewise some Runic inscriptions in a
fine state of preservation, and a col
lection of about 3000 Norwegian
coins, commencing from Hako the
Good, son of Harald Harfager, in the
10th century. Hako was educated
in England, by King Athelstane, and
by his aid obtained possession of the
throne of Norway. The lovers of
antique furniture will be gratified
with the sight of a most elaborately
and beautifully-aarved oak bedstead
of Dutch manufacture. Upwards of
200 years since this bedstead was
brought to Bergen by a young English
couple, just married. They settled
here. The husband was unfortunate
in trade, and soon after died, leaving
his widow enceinte with her first child.
Norwegian hearts warmed to the
young mourner and her fatherless in
fant, and when they at' length sailed
for England the widow gave this only
and valued relic of her happy days to
a family here who had shown her the
greatest kindness. Their descendants
presented it to the museum, where it
remains a token of British gratitude
for Norwegian generosity. The pic
tures here are, with one or two ex
ceptions, a vile pack of grandly-bap
tized rubbish. It would be "doing
the state some service " to burn them
all with as little delay as possible ;
they are a disgrace' to the town, and
injurious to those who are induced
to believe such trash models upon
which to form a judgment in the
art. The only picture here deserving
notice is an elaborate specimen of the
Byzantine school of the 11th century.
It came from one of the churches in
the Sfigne Fjord, where it is said to
have been placed by one of the sea
kings, who brought it from Constan
tinople. This picture is in 8 com
partments, representing the Persian
186
ROUTE 21.
king, Chosroes, carrying off the holy

cross from Jerusalem ; the Emperor
Heraclius attacking and slaying him,
recovering the cross, and replacing it
on the altar, at which the dead are
raised up from their tombs beneath.
Considering the great age of the pic
ture, it is in a good state. There is
an inscription round each of the com
partments.
The cabinet of natural history is
somewhat rich in specimens of Nor
wegian animals and birds, particularly
such as are found in the Bergen dis
trict ; and also some good specimens
of fish. Those of the bear and red
deer, as well as the extensive tribe
of feathered game, merit the sports
man's attention. The amiable and
venerable master of the cathedral
school, Herr Sagen, takes a great in
terest in this museum, of which he
is a director. He points out with
much satisfaction the skeleton of "my
old friend," that is, a horse of the
best Norwegian breed who served him
faithfully for 40 years. In Norway
and Sweden the horse generally at
tains a greater age, and retains his
powers of usefulness many years
longer, than in England. Pontoppidan, Bishop of Bergen, in 1751, pub
lished a folio volume on " The Natural
History of Norway ;" it was trans
lated and published in London in
1755.
The theatre is somewhat smaller
than that of Ghristiania. Here also
the performers are Danes, and the
pieces in general selected are those
which have been played in the capi
tal.
Bergen is a picturesque little city.
The houses are mostly timber-built,
painted red and white, each with its
water-cask at the door for use in
case of fire, from which Bergen, like
the other towns, has several times
suffered terribly. In 1488, 11 parish
churches and the greater part of the
town were consumed. One hundred
and eighty houses were burnt down
BERGEN.
Norway.
in 1855 in the west quarter of the

town ; and nothing, humanly speak
ing, saved the rest of the city but
the broad market place, beyond
which the flames were prevented
from spreading. The streets are
irregular, but, for the most part,
well paved. The harbour is the
great object of attraction. The fish
market is held there on Wednesdays
and Fridays, and should be visited.
In point of language it is quite equal
to our Billingsgate. Fish forms the
principal article of diet here in
summer, and it is fine, abundant,
and cheap. Mackerel, 3 for an
English penny, and a large halibut
for Is. (id. In summer the port is
usually crowded with vessels; there
are generally two or three English
yachts. The stock-fish boats from
the N., before alluded to, are very
quaint and picturesque ; they will be
readily distinguished by their high
prows ; the form of these vessels is
of great antiquity. So prejudiced
are the people who build and navi
gate these vessels, that they will not
make the smallest alteration in their
build or rig ; they will not even avail
themselves of the use of the windlass,
and the huge square sail therefore
still requires the same power to haul
it to the mast-head as it did 1200
years since. They are clinker built,
and with great breadth of beam, but
are not adapted for sailing, except in
smooth water. It has been erroneously
stated that these Jtegte are perfect
models of those used by the old
Norsemen in their piratical voyages.
' ' Their Drayi and Orm were long
galleys, with one or more banks of
oars."II. D. W. The huge row of
warehouses on the N. side of the
harbour, several stories high, and
running far back, are almost all filled
with stock-fish ; that is, cod-fish
gutted, the head cut off, and dried,
without salt. These warehouses once
belonged to the Hanseatic merchants.
They are very old and curious.
Norway.
ROUTE 21 ,
Many descendants of these old Ger

mans still live in Bergen, keeping up
the language and customs of the
fatherland, as much as possible, to
this day.
There is a circulating library for
native and foreign works, and one or
two other good booksellers1 shops near
the cathedral. Travelling maps and
the Government Road-book (Reiseroute) of stations and distances, &c,
may be purchased there. The best
jewellers' shops are in the Strandgaden ; there may be seen the silver
buttons and shirt-rtuds worn by the
peasants in the Bergen district ; and
also the crown and ornaments worn
by the brides at their weddings.
Travellers should endeavour to assist
at a Bergen farmer's wedding ; it is
a highly picturesque and entertaining
scene. Immediately the ceremony is
over the house is thrown open to all
their friends and neighbours, and
feasting and dancing are kept up for
several days. Each guest brings a
present. The bride remains dressed
in her crown and ornaments during
all the merry-making ; the crown is
so constructed, that by withdrawing
a pin it opens and falls from the
head, and the gay doings of the wed
ding are at length ended by the bride
dancing the crown off. Immediately
she does so, the music is hushed, and
the guests depart. The interiors of
many of the peasants' houses in this
district are extremely picturesque.
The farmers make excellent, but
clumsy, rifles, and are, many of
them, splendid shots, killing ptarmi
gan with ball.
Tobacconists' shops are as common
in Norway as in Germany. The
Norwegians smoke to excess, and the
constant use of tobacco in all ways
renders some of them as objectionable
in their habits as American back
woodsmen. Smoking at night in
the streets is not permitted in any of
the Norwegian towns.
Just outside the entrance gate by
SHOPS.
187
the German church there is a public

garden, where an excellent band
frequently plays in summer. The
views from thence are extensive and
beautiful.
There is an old custom still kept
up by many families here, and in
other parts of Norway, of sprinkling
the leaves of trees before the house
where a person dies ; and the rela
tions and friends of the deceased do
the same before theirs.
"Many of the watermen about
Bergen have peculiar dresses and
customs, and form a class by them
selves, like the Claddagh fishermen of
Galway. They are called 'streels.'
Accurate information about them is
a desideratum." MS. Journal,
W. E. C. N.
The watchmen in Bergen are
armed with a most formidable weapon
called "the morning star." It is a
globe of brass about the size of an
orange (in which are fixed numerous
spikes of iron of about 4 an inch
long), mounted on a staff of about
4 feet. The Marquis of Waterford,
when at Bergen, some years since,
was nearly killed by a blow on the
head given him by a watchman with
Ms morning star.
The best general view of Bergen
perhaps is from the entrance of the
harbour. As you steam or sail in
the town lies before you in a semi
circle at the head of the bay, backed
by two rocky cliffs separated front
each other by a deep ravine.
Many of the villas about Bergen
are beautifully situated, commanding
lovely and extensive views ; and the
walks in the mountains which sur
round the town are charming. Some
of these mountains, of which there
are seven, lie quite near to the city,
which makes its situation highly pic
turesque ; but the altitude of these
mountains, which is upwards of
2000 feet, renders Bergen very
subject to rain, so much so, that it
is calculated that the wet days here
188
ROUTE 9] .
in each year average about 200.

There are some horse-chestnut trees
near Bergen, I suppose the northern
most place at which they are found ;
but the climate of Bergen, from its
proximity to the sea, is quite mild,
when compared with that of the
country a very few miles inland.
From Bergen delightful sketching
and sporting excursions may be made
to the islands on the W. and N. W. ,
as well as to the neighbouring fjords.
Boats may be hired for the purpose,
as also men who know the coast well,
and can be relied upon. Most of the
sailors speak a little English. Look
well to the provender before starting.
The islands abound in wild fowl
feathered game is abundant on some
of them ; and at times red deer and
bears are met with there. The
scenery of the outer islands, which
are exposed to all the force of the
ocean, is exceedingly wild.
The two grandest fjords near here
are the Sogne and the Hardanger.
The former lies about 7 miles to the
N. The Hardanger is some 7 miles
South of Bergen. For description of
these fjords, and the fine waterfalls,
and other objects in this neighbour
hood, see previous part of this
Route at Leirdaltoren and Vossevangen. Also, Routes 23 and 24.
Those who have a yacht and a tent
with them may roam about these
magnificent fjords, and remain
wherever sport or scenery may at
tract them. It is still such com
paratively unknown ground, that there
is abundant room for enterprising
tourists to strike out new routes
and discover new beauties in these
as well as many other parts of
Norway. The costume of the peasant
women about the Hardanger Fjord
is very picturesque, particularly their
Sunday dress, which they will some
times put on to oblige strangers.
Prints of Norwegian costume may be
purchased at the booksellers in Ber
gen, also views of the town.
BERGEN.
Norway,
An excursion may be made from

Bergen, which will combine the
Sogne Fjord and the Justedal Glacier
with the Hardanger Fjord and the
Folge-fond, and which may be done
very comfortably within a fortnight.
Go by steamer to Leirdalsoren in the
Sogne Fjord, taking care to arrange
your plans to suit the day the steamer
goes, thence to the Justedal Glacier,
visiting the head of the Sbgne Fjord
(see page 174). Return to Leir
dalsoren, or Gudvangen ; from thence
to Vossevangen, as described in this
Route.
From Vossevangen cross the country
to the Hardanger Fjord at Ulvik
(see page 178), and across the water
to Vik at the head of Eids Fjord.
From hence the Yoring-fos may be
visited. Returning to Vik take boat
to Utne at the N. E. corner of the
Folge-fond promontory.
Utne. The best quarters in the
Hardanger, reasonable charges, and
a very central situation. The Folgefond can be ascended from here, by
going to Bleyer, in 1 long day, re
turning to Utne at night. Thus :
boat to Bleyer, 3 hours ; ponies and
a guide to the glacier, 8 hours there
and back ; return to Utne, 3 hours.
Take the ponies as near as possible
to the edge of the snow. Observe
the Alpine plants in this elevated
region. If, however, you go to Odde
at the head of the S6r Fjord you must
sleep there, or at Bustetun (see
Route 23.
From Utne to VikOr, on the
northern shore of the Hardanger, 6
hours by water, near which the
Ootud-fos should be visited. Here
Route 23 may be joined, and Bergen
reached in 11 miles ; but if the
traveller wishes to see the rest of the
Hardanger Fjord (and it is well
worth it), he should proceed in boat
from Vikor first to
Bondhuus, 12 hours, at the head
of a small fjord on the western side
of the Folge-fond peninsula. The
Norway.
EOUTK 22. BERGEN TO CHRTSTIANIA.
1&9
Folge-fond can be ascended from here, of what you are likely to want, and
but it is 'better to do so from Bleyer provide accordingly. Above all
or Odde in the Sor Fjord. From forget not a supply of small money.
For Steamers up and down the coast,
Bondhuus to
Rosendal, 8 hours by water, one which call here, see Route 25.
of the most beautiful spots in the
Those who wish to shorten the
Hardanger. There is no inn, but a journey from Christiania to Bergen
lodging may generally be obtained. can go by rail from Christiania to
There is a beautiful valley leading the Eidsvold Terminus, and from
up from the fjord, and a waterfall at thence by steamer to Gjorig on the
the head of it ; the baronial house is western shore of the Miosen (see
curious, us being one of the few Route 26). From Gjovig to
Mustad, 1J by land.
manorial houses now left in Norway.
Gramm, 1J.
It is a small stone building erected
Eidsvold, 1. Where this Route is
in 1662. There is also a stone
church of the early English architec joined, page 169. Passengers can
ture, containing the burial vault of book themselves and their carrioles
the barons of Rosendal. The present from Christiania to Gjovig, which
owner of Ilosendal is their lineal de will be a saving of expense, and a
scendant, but bears no title, since day gained in time ; but they will
the abolition of all titles in 1814. miss Ringeriget, and exchange the
wild scenery of the Rands Fjord for
From Rosendal to
Ter&en is 4 hours by water. Here the tamer beauties of the Miosen.
the steamer touches, and travellers
can proceed either northwards to
ROUTE 22.
Bergen, or southwards to Stavanger
and Christiansand, as they have BERGEN TO CHRISTIANIA, BY LEIRDALmade their plans. Care should be
SOKEN, THROUGH HALLINGDAL AND
taken before leaving Bergen to ascer
HEHSEDAL.
tain the exact time of the steamers
calling at Teroen. / So much of this
The Smith Road. Distance 44
excursion is by water, that a carriole Norsk m., or 308 Eng. As to send
would be a useless encumbrance, and ing Forbud papers by the post, see
it may be doubted if one could Route 21. After leaving Hoeg for
travel from Vossevangen to Ulvik. Christiania the horses are generally
It is therefore better not to buy one, better upon this than upon the
but to trust to the conveyances of the North Road, and where the loss of a
country. Provisions must be taken. short time at each station is not an
The distances are by time, and object, a Forbud need not be sent,
depend therefore on the wind. At as the station masters have horses of
each station before dismissing your their own, which they will "usually
boat, ascertain if another is to be furnish in about a quarter of an
had. If there is none, you must hour, upon being offered the "halv
bargain with your former men to be anden ;" that is, 32 skillings per
taken on. The boats being seldom horse per mile, as at country fast
watertight, have some sticks or stations. But this plan, which
branches put underneath your lug saves half the price of the Forbud
horse, should not be relied upon.
gage to keep it out of the wet.
On leaving Bergen. Remember
This Route is the same as 21, till
that towns are scarce in Norway, arriving at Hoeg, where the ascent to
and, therefore, if 'going to linger in the plateau of the Fille-Fjeld begins.
the country, think well before starting There the road branches off to the
190
HOUTE 22.
BERGEN TO CHHIST1ANIA.
S.E., and ultimately again joins

Route 21 at the village of Norderhoug, about 4 miles from Christiania.
There is much difference of opinion
as to the scenery upon this road,
some persons considering it finer than
that over the Fille-Fjeld, and others
not nearly so fine ; but however that
may be, by following Route 21 to
Bergen, making the excursions therein
described to the chief objects of
interest on the Sb'gne and Hardanger
Fjord, and, returning by this road,
the tourist will have traversed some
of the grandest scenery in Norway.
Or, instead of going direct to Chris
tiania, by diverging from this road
(as directed at p. 191), the silver
mines at Kongsberg, the Riukan-fcs,
and the town of Drammen can be
visited en route.
From Bergen to Hceg includes 16
stages, 4 of which are by water, in
all 23f Norsk m.., or 164 Eng. For
particulars of accommodation at the
station-houses, and the scenery and
excursions on the way there, see
Route 21. Do not forget a supply
of provender, and plenty of small
money.
* + Hceg to Christiania. The first
stage is a very long one, through
exceedingly wild and grand mountain
scenery ; a very steep ascent up
zigzags great part of the way. Soon
after leaving Hceg the road crosses
the Leirdalsoren River, as it comes
thundering down from the Fille-Fjeld,
and is then carried up the deep
valley of a picturesque stream, which
flows from the Eidre Vand. The
highest part of the mountains is
attained soon after passing this lake.
The scenery here is grand, but of the
most desolate character. A small
lake is soon passed upon the right.
This is the source of the Hemsedal
River, whose waters flow S. E., and
eventually fall into the Drammen
Fjord. The road is now carried along
the valley, down which the Hemsedal
River flows to
Norway.
* t Bjbbcrg, 1{. Good accommoda

tion. This is a "fast station ; " that
is, from the 15th of October to the
14th of May 4 horses, and from the
15th of May to the 15th of October,
6 horses are kept in readiness for the
use of travellers, and for which the
additional charge must be paid. On
leaving Bjoberg the road rapidly
descends ; the Hemsedal River being
close on the right all the way.
* + Tuff, If. Tolerable accommo
dation. For making out a Forbud on
this part of the road from Hceg to
Tuff over the Hemsedal Fjeld time
must be allowed for the ascent from
Hoeg to Bjoberg, and vice versa the
traveller coming from Christiania
must allow for the .ascent from Tuff
to Bjoberg. Near here on the N. E.
is the Skogshorn mountain, 5907
feet high. Road still follows the,
left bank of the Hemsedal River,
now become a splendid stream. The
scenery along this noble valley is
most grand and picturesque, and
particularly so from hence to the
village of Gool, beyond the Roe
station.
Ekre, 1J. From hence a horseroad branches off to the N. , through
a wild mountainous tract abounding
in lakes and torrents, to Thune, on
Route 21. Upon this stage the
scenery increases in grandeur, and
the road, descending tremendous
hills, crosses the river near
Roe, 1. A short distance from
Roe the noble Hallingdal is entered
at the village of Gool, and then turns
E. Near Gool the Hemsedal River
is crossed, close by its confluence
with the noble Hallingdals Elr,
where it makes a splendid fall. The
bridge here is worthy of notice. The
descent continues very rapid during
almost all this and the next stage,
the road being near the river all the
way.
Haga, J. Pay for 1 J. Indifferent
accommodation.
The Hallingdal
River is crossed about midway on
Norway.
route 29.bergen to christiania.
this stage, to the right hank, down

which the road is carried for several
stages.
* Nces, 1\. Good accommodation.
The road is here 536 feet above the
sea, and the descent becomes some
what less rapid. The Hallingdal
River flows through the Brummen
Vavd, upon this stage. The scenery
continues very fine. In winter the
road from Noes to Hamremden is on the
frozen lake, and in summer it may
be travelled over in a boat, but this
plan is not recommended.
Serre, If. Bad quarters. Close
upon the S. of this place the summit
of the Eggedah Fjeld is 4230 feet
high. This fine range of mountains
extends from Noes to Green.
Trostem, If. The road still fol
lows the windings of the stream on
its left bank. Soon after leaving
Tro3tem the river runs through a
small lake, and, on clearing it, flows
but a little way further before it
enters the noble Kroren Fjord.
* Grulsffig, lg. Good accommoda
tion here ; the people particularly
civil. The house is some little
distance off the road to the left, and
is beautifully situated near the head
of the fjord, which is only 363 feet
above the sea. This is an excellent
place to stop at for a few days ; the
scenery around is very fine ; fishing
good, and shooting well spoken of.
Bears are frequently met with near
here. From Gulsvig the road is
very hilly ; it is carried along the
left bank, and commands splendid
views over the fjord.
Sorteberg, 2. A very hilly stage
going westwards, requiring nearly 3
hours.
Hamremoen, If. Good road, but
hilly. House beautifully situated
near the Kroren Fjord.
The silver mine atKongsberg and the
RiuJcan-fos can be visited by taking
the road which turns to the right,
a little distance from Hamremoen,
upon this stage, and leads through
191
Haugsund to Kongsberg. ' The road

keeps the bank of the river almost
all the way to Haugsund, where it
turns S.W. across the country to
Kongsberg. Scenery beautiful all the
way. The distance from Hamremoen
to Kongsberg is 7 stagesviz. Vasenrud, j ; Prastegaarden, \\ ; Krona,
.1 ; Haugsund, 2| ; (allow half an
hour to rest at Bjorndalen ;) Dunserud, 1 ; and Kongsberg, | ; in all
7 ms. At Haugsund, Route 23 is
entered on the way to Kongsberg.
On leaving Hamremoen, after pass
ing the road to Kongsberg on the
right, our Route quits the fjord, turns
N.E., and becomes very hilly.
* Oppegaard, 1\. Upon this and
great part of the next stage the
scenery is fine, and the road turning
S.E. leads down the deep valley of
the Sognedals Mr.
* t Veeme, 1.
Hone/os, 1. Road still con
tinues hillyscenery picturesque.
The fine waterfall of Hbne-fos is
passed near the junction of the
Beina Elv with Vials Elv, which
flows from the Rands Fjord. On
crossing the Vials Elv our route
soon after joins the northern road to
Bergen, Route 21, at the village of
Norderhoug. This village is cele
brated in Norwegian annals. In
1716 the Swedes invaded Norway,
and a party of about 200 horse were
quartered at the priest's house and
those adjoining it. He was ill and
helpless at the time, but his wife
plied the Swedes with drink, and
contrived to send one of her servants
to advise the officer in command of a
small Norwegian force in the neigh
bourhood, who immediately marched,
attacked the Swedes, and took or
killed almost all of them.
Sundvolden, 1^. From hence to
Christiania, as in Route 21. There
are only 2 stages, together 3J. Bear
in mind the magnificent views from
the post-house at Krogkleven (see
p. 167), if not already visited.
192
ROUTE 23.
CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN.
Norway.
lover of nature in her wildest mood,

the artist, the angler, and the sports
man, this line of country has very
CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN THROUGH great attractions, which are increased
DRAMMEN, KONGSBERG, OVER TEL- by their freshness as well as their
LEHAREEN, AND THE HARDANGER. novelty.
begins a few miles W.
Distance 55 1 Norsk ms., or 388 of Tellemarken
Kongsberg : excellent general shoot
Eng.
ing is to be had in this district, and
This third route to Bergen cannot its large and numerous lakes and
be travelled in a carriole further than their tributaries abound in trout and
Gugaarden, at the foot of the Hougli- a variety of other fish.
fjeld. Travellers, therefore, who in
Look well to Route 21 for hints
tend to go to Bergen will do well not prior to leaving Christiania ; see page
to purchase a carriole, but to trust to 166. After passing Kongsberg, even
the conveyances of the country, as a carriage or carriole would be an in
far as Gugaarden. From thence to cumbrance and expense, and it will
Odde, at the bottom of the Siir be found much the best plan to per
Fjord, the journey must be made on form the land stages on foot or on
foot, or on horseback. If the latter, horseback. A carriole can always be
the traveller will do well to make a bought in any town when wanted,
bargain at each station, ' ' fjeld miles " and horses are easily hired at the
being loosely calculated. Passing, as mountain stations, as elsewhere. A
this Route does, through the celebrated diligence runs between Christiania
districts of Tellemarken and Har- and Drammen.
danger, it commands some of the very
As far as Drammen all the stages
grandest scenery in Norway, so much are " Fast Stations ;"*that is, horses
so that it is considered by many tra are kept in readiness ; for which an
vellers superior to that over the Fille- additional sum is payable to that
Fjeld, Route 21. The valley, before charged at the ordinary stations ; see
reaching Seljestad, and that of Grons- Table under head 6 ' ' Preliminary
dale, before reaching Siir Fjord, are Information." No Forbud is there
sublime, and the views from the fjeld fore requisite before Drammen. There
above, before the track descends into is no post going to Bergen by this
them, among the finest in Norway. Route.
But these districts are so wild, and so
On leaving Christiania the road
thinly inhabited, that with the single passes close under the new palace,
exception of those at Drammen and and beautiful views of the fjord are
Kongsberg, all the station-houses are obtained for some distance.
very inferior, and those in Tellemarken
Karnsborg, If. A Town stage from
wretched. None but the hardy Christiania : good road. About half
those capable of enduring very con way between Christiania and Nces the
siderable fatigue and the roughest Bergen Routes, 21 and 22, turn off to
food and lodgingshould follow this the N.W. The road then gradually
road farther than Kongsberg and the leaves the fjord and turns S.W.
Riukan-fos. Tourists prepared to face through a hilly country covered with
these difficulties will be most amply fir in all directions.
rewarded by the grandeur of the
+ Giellebcek, \\. Upon this stage
Bcenery, and the picturesque dwellings Paradise Hill is crossed ; from its sum
of the people and their costumes, all mit there is a most extensive and
which are but rarely seen by any tra splendid view of the valley of the
vellers, from the want of good roads
and accommodation. To the true
t This sign denotes a " I'ast Station."
ROUTE 23.
Norway.
P.UUTE '23.
DRAMMEN.
Drammen, the town and the fjord.

The road then descends into the
highly picturesque valley of the Leir
Elv, crosses that stream,, and soon
after joins the bank of the Drammen
Fjord, along which it continues into
the town.
Dkammen, 1J. Inns: Hotel Scandinavie is considered the best ; besides
this, there is the Hotel d'Angleterre,
and one or two others. English
spoken at the two first. Drammen is
beautifully situated at the mouth of
the noble river of that name, at its
junction with the fjord. The lakes,
torrents, and rivers, which are tribu
taries to the Drammen, are almost in
numerable. Many of them rise in
the mountain ranges of the Hardanger,
and even farther north. They afford
ample occupation for a host of anglers,
as they abound in trout. Old Izaak
Walton rests beside his loved and
lovely "silver Itchen," whose attrac
tions he so well described. May some
lover of the "gentle art" do equal
justice to the Norwegian waters.
Salmon cannot get higher up the river
than Haugsund, on account of the
fall there ; in the pool beneath it the
best fishing is to be had. Though not
in much repute as a salmon stream,
the Drammen may be worth trying
in the early part of the season.
Drammen contains about 12,000 in
habitants ; it is divided into three
districts, Bragenoes, Stromso, and
Tangen, and consists principally of one
long street, running along each side of
the river, and connected by a hand
some bridge. The chief trade, like
that of all the towns on the eastern
coast, consists in the export of timber
and deals to France, Holland, and
Great Britain, and no less than about
40,000 tons of shipping are annually
employed.
From Drammen there is a road to
Eingeriget (Route 21), by Nordal,
along the Eastern bank of Holsfjord
and Tyri Fjord to Sundvolden. The
road followed is a very fine specimen
KONGSBERG .
193
of engineering, being in vmany places

built up of solid masonry, for 50 or
60 feet on the side of the fjord. The
scenery for 20 or 30 miles is very
picturesque, and the coup-d'ceil, when
you first catch sight of the Eingeriget
Valley, with its extensive sheets of
water, is very striking. From Dram
men to Nordal on this road is 1 ; to
Enger, 1 ; thence to Sundvolden on
fioute 21 is along the Holsfjord.
From Drammen to Kongsberg there
are two roads, one on each bank of
the river. Our route is by that on
the left bank. It keeps close along
side the stream, through lovely scenery
all the way .to the next station.
Haugsund, If. (Town stage.) Bad
accommodation, though the place is
populous for Norway. To join the
Road to Bergen from hence the road
continues up the left bank of the
river, which it crosses at Yikersund,
above the junction of the Snarum
Elv, and then keeps up the valley of
that river till it joins Route 22, at
HamremSen. For distances, &c, see
that Route, p. 191.
Continuing our route from Haug
sund, the road crosses the Drammen
by a new iron bridge, and crossing
some steep hills, descends into the
valley of the Lauren Elv shortly be
fore reaching
Kokgsbekg, If. There is a good
Inn here, kept by Christiansen, near
the smelting works. Population about
5000. The town is beautifully situ
ated on the river Lauven, and near it
to the W. the Jonsknuden mountain
rises to an elevation of 3054 feet,
from whence the view over Kongs
berg and the valley of the Lauven is
very fine.
Kongsberg to Skicn.
From Kongsberg a road goes S. to
Skien, Porsgrund, and Brevig on the
Christiania Fjord. The stations are
Tinnces in Hitterdal, 2f, pay for 3
m. ; thence by water to Lyst
191
BOUTE 23.
CnRISTIANIA TO BERGEN.
huus, i ; Farvolden, If ; (xalten, 1\ ;

+ Fjcerestrand, 2 ; and Skien ^.
Total, 9. AnotJier road by land all
the way is Oitre Gaatoug, J ; Farvol
den, j| ; Soboden, 1 J ; Sannesmiien,
I ; Namliis, 1 ; f Bergan, f ; + Fjoerestrand, 1 ; f Skien, J. Total, 74 m.
From Skien to Porsgrund is about
1 m. further. A steamer runs on the
Nord Sjo every week day, except
Tuesday and Thursday, from Fjcere
strand to Tangen, near Tinnres, in
about 6 hours, generally starting early
from Fjosrestrand, and returning the
same day. Hoier's Hotel at Skien
is very good.
Kongsberg is celebrated for the rich
silver mines belonging to the State,
which are situated about a mile from
the town. Hexahedral cobalt pyrites
are also found here. During the last
few years these mines have produced
a considerable annual profit. By ap
plication through the innkeeper to the
directors of the mines, a permission
to view them is readily obtained.
The church at Kongsborg is a large
brick building, and is one of the hand
somest in the country. There are also
in the town a mint, a manufactory of
arms, the government powder mills,
and the smelting works for reducing
and refining the silver ore, and manu
facturing cobalt, as used in commerce.
Specimens of the silver, of the cobalt
pyrites, and of the various stages
through which they pass, until the
exquisite blue used in painting is ob
tained, can all be purchased here.
"The rock at Kongsberg contains
native silver and sulphuret of silver,
with copper pyrites, iron pyrites, and
blende, disseminated through it ; that
is to say, in certain ranges of the
strata from 1 to 60 fathoms broad.
This is called the Fahlbaand. The
dip of the strata to the E. is from 50
to 80 degrees. The rock in the whole
mountain is mostly gneiss, with layers
of mica slate and hornblende slate.
The vein does not bear silver when it
leaves the Fahlbaand ; 100 lbs. of the
Noncay.
rock in the Fahlbaand contains never

less than J oz. of silver. The veins
also become metalliferous as they
cease to run parallel with the cleavage
of the felspar in the gneiss."
Everest's Norway, p. 279. The prin
cipal mine is said to have been dis
covered in 1623 by a peasant boy,
named Grosvold. It was first worked
in 1624 by Christian IV., and is about
half a Norwegian mile from the town
on the high road to Tellemarkcn. On
the way to the mines the stamping
and roasting houses are passed. The
principal entrance to the mines is
through a level commenced in 1716
by Frederic V. ; this is tolerably
broad and lofty, and is nearly 2 Eng
lish miles in length ; from this level
you descend by 38 perpendicular lad
ders, of the average length of 5 fa
thoms each, a very fatiguing task, and.
then find yourself at the bottom of
the shaft, and are rewarded by the
sight of the veins of native silver.
From this mine was obtained the
famous mass of silver, about 6 feet
long, 2 feet broad, and 8 inches thick,
which is now in the Museum of Na
tural History at Copenhagen.
When at Kongsberg, an excursion
to that fine waterfall the Larbrb-fos
should be made. It is about a mile
up the Lauven, above the town.
The Lauven is a fine-looking salmon
stream. See Route 25. A road turns
off from Haugsund, the last station,
to llingeriget. From Haugsund to
Bjordalen, 1 \ ; Krona, 1 \ ; fHallerud,
1 1 ; fEgge, I ; Honefos, 1 . See Route
22. From hence you em join Route
21 at Sundvolden, crossing yuoenbergsund not far from Honefossen, which
in sprirg and autumn is worthy of a
visit, from t':e great body of water
which falls over it.
Kongsberg to the Riukan-fos.
This celebrated waterfall, in itself
worth the journey from Christiania,
is upon the Maan Elv, which flows
from the Mjos Vand into the Tind
Norway.
KOTJTE 23.
THE KIUKAN-FOS.
Sjo. It is a little to the N.W. of the

Gousta Fjeld, which lies N.W. by W.
of Kongsberg. There are 3 ways from
Kongsberg. First road, dist. 12
Norsk ms., or 84 Eng. By the post
road upon this Route, see below, to
Tinnojs, 2| ; Lysthuus, 4 ; Bamble i
Hitterdal, j. Upon the stage from
hence a by-road (but practicable for 4wheel carriages) turns off and leads
N. to Tinoset 2, at the foot of the
Tind Sjo, Sand, 1J ; Haagenoss, 2,
near the mouth of the Maan, Eh.
And on foot or horseback up the
valley of that river to the village of
Dal, \\. From hence the Riukanfos is about 1 m. more. The best
resting-place is Dal, but it is not very
good. By starting early from the
former place, Dal may be reached on
the second day from Kongsberg. The
two great attractions upon this road
to the Riukan-fos are the falls of the
river from the Tind Sjo, between
Tinnces and Seem, and near the latter
the interesting antique church of Hit
terdal. Provisions should be taken
from Kongsberg, and when ladies are
of the party plenty of wraps for the
water passage on the lake, which
usually takes about 5 or 6 hours if
the wind be tolerably favourable. To
see the Riukan-fos, and ascend the
Gousta Fjeld to advantage, 5 days
should be allowed for the journey
from Kongsberg and back there, but
it may be done in 4. In making this
excursion, it is essential to send a
Forbud, that no time may be lost in
waiting for horses or boats, and that
the best accommodations may be pre
pared at the stations, which are miser
ably poor. Second road, dist. 8|
Norsk ms. , or 62 Eng. This is the
most direct way for men to take,
" and decidedly the best." W. West.
From Kongsberg, keeping up the river
immediately beyond the Larbrii-fos, a
by-way leads up the valley of Jonsdal
Elv, by Moen, 1, to * Bolkesjo, 2.
There is tolerable accommodation here.
From the hill above this station there
195
is a fine view of the Gousta Fjeld and

the mountains of Tellemarken. Car
rioles must be left here, and the
journey continued on foot or horseback
to Kopsland, If. Thence to Tinoset,
1 ; Sand, lj ; Haagences, 2. Thence
by land to Dal, 1 J, and to the Riukanfos about 1 more. Third road, dist.
10J Norsk ms., or 72 E. From Kongs
berg to Bolkesjo, as in the above
way, 2 ms. Thence to*Folseland, 14
(where there is decent accommoda
tion to be had), and Tinoset, 1J.
Leave carrioles there, and proceed,
as in first road, to Dal and the Riu
kan-fos, 54. The scenery upon the
Tind Sjo is mountainous and grand,
and it abounds in waterfalls. Bears
are at times found upon its banks,
and the general shooting is well
spoken of. The difference of level
between this lake and that of the
Mjos Tand, just above the Riukanfos, is 1275 feet, which the river
Maan therefore descends in the short
distance between these two lakes.
Dal. The accommodation here is
improved, and is the best to be ob
tained near the Riukan-fos. At Ingolfslund, 1 Eng. mile nearer the
fall, it is wretched in the extreme.
Dal is therefore the only place to rest
at while visiting the grand scenery
about here, and where horses and
guides both for the fall and also for
the Gousta Fjeld may be obtained.
The Malcan-fos. "About 5 Eng.
ms. beyond Dal the path contracts, so
as no longer to admit a road by the
side of the river, and we began to
ascend. Above us were heights and
streams roaring down from them ;
below the Maan foaming over the
rocks. Many a waterfall did we pass
this day, which in other places would
have been a theme of wonder, but
was here without a name. At last
we saw a light cloud of vapour rest
ing on the side of the hill. The at
mosphere around was clear, but it re
mained stedfast like the spirit of the
waters ; this was the Riukan (Reek
196
ROUTE 23.CHRISTTANIA TO BEKGEN.
ing). We left our horses at a small

plot of ground, which afforded room
for two or three sheds, and then had
more than a mile to go on foot along
a goat's track, for the valley had now
become nothing more than a great
cleft in the rock. We crept forward,
however, sometimes on a narrow
ledge of the bare slate, nearly per
pendicular, a others, clinging to the
bushes of birch and fir, till the fall
ing river opened upon us. It comes
from the distance tumbling down a
slope, and distorted by the rocks that
oppose it, till it reaches the spot
where they separate, and shoots into
the depths below. It appears as fine
and fleecy as white wool or cotton ;
and though the vapour obscures every
thing near it, yet in looking over the
cliff you can discern shoots of foam
at the bottom like rockets of water
radiating in every direction, A low
sound and vibration appears to come
from beneath one's feet. As I hung
half giddy on the steep, and turned
my eyes opposite to the mountain
mass that breasted me, its black sides
seemingly within a stone's throw, and
its snowy head far in the clouds
above, my thoughts involuntarily
turned to Him at whose bidding it
upsprung. I long gazed upon this
wonderful scene, which seemed like
the end of the world. It still floats
before me like a dream."Everest's
Norway, p. 30.
Estimates of the height of the
Riukan-fos are various; the most
probable is about 900 feet. The body
of water is very great.
' ' There is a legend connected with
this fall. It is called 'the MariStien'that path over the mountain,
on the brink of the precipice of the
Eiukan, which even at this day the
traveller treads with fear, and which
was discovered by a young maiden
strong in the courage of love. It was
by this path that the beautiful Mary
of Westfjordalen went with light and
fearless step to meet the friend of her
Norway*
childhood, Ejstein Halfoordsen. But

the avarice of her father separated
them, and Mary's tears and prayers
prevailed upon her lover to fly, to
escape the plot formed by a treacherous
rival against his life. Years passed,
and Mary was firm in her constancy.
Her father died ; Ejstein had, by his
valour and nobleness, made his former
enemy his friend ; and after their
long separation the lovers were to
meet again never to be separated.
Ejstein hastened by the shortest way,
the Mari-Stien, to meet his beloved.
Long had she watched for him. She
saw him coming, and his name burst
from her with a joyful cry. He saw,
and rushed to meet her, but fell, and
the Riukan whirled him into its foam
ing depths. For many years after
this, a pale form, in whose beautiful
eyes a quiet madness spoke, wandered
daily on the Mari-Stien, and seemed
to talk with some one in the abyss
below. There she went till a merciful
voice summoned her to joy and rest in
the arms of her beloved."Frederica
Bremer's Strife and Peace, or Scenes
in Norway, p. 1 7.
The Gousta Fjeld may also be con
veniently ascended from Dal. The
summit is of a singular wedge-like
form, the highest point being 56S8
feet. The view from this mountain
is of enormous extent, particularly
towards the E., where the eye ranges
over the magnificent district of Ringeriget, as far as Krogkleven, on the
Bergen road, Route 21, a distance of
70 Eng. ms.
From, Dal to Korgsberg.
If returning to Kongsberg, there
are two roads by which the route can
be varied. First, by taking the horsetrack, which leads from Dal up the
left bank of the Maan, through Ingolfslund, and Vaa, to Holvik, at the
foot of the Mjos Vand ; and from
there crossing the Maan, and taking
another horse-track through the raonn- .
tains (a long stage of about 2J ms.),
Norway.
ROUTE 23.THE VOEJNG-F03.
to Foseim, and entering the road to

Kongsberg, near Moslandsmo, 7 ms.
from Kongsberg. By this way from
Dal to Kongsberg is about 14 m. The
second is by another horse-track,
which crosses the Maan between Dal
and Ingolfslund, passes along the foot
of the Gousta Fjeld, and then to the
E. of several small lakes, through
Boen and Oystul, down the valley of
the Skangs Jih, and entering the road
to Kongsberg at the Mossebo Station,
dist. 5 m. from Kongsberg (see this
Kte.). By this way it is about 11 ni.
from Dal to Kongsberg.
Dal to Bergen.
From Dal there is a horse-track up
the valley to Holvik, across the Maan,
and along the end of the S. branch of
the Mjos Tand to Gaardsjord, thence
across the Total: Vand to Kosthveit,
and entering this Route at Jamsgaard,
18 m. from Kongsberg ; or it is possible
to get a boat on the Totak Vand, and
proceed up to its head at Odegarden,
which is about 1 m. from Gugaarden,
3 m. further to the West on this road
to Bergen. But this route must only
be attempted by pedestrians, and they
must expect to rough it. It requires
two long days to go from Dal to Gu
gaarden by this route ; bad quarters
are to be expected, and there is some
times a difficulty in getting a horse or
horses necessary to carry the knap
sacks, provisions, &c. In crossing
from Holvik to the other branch of
the Mjos Vand the track leads over
the shoulder of Bosnuten, from the
top of which there is one of the most
extensive views in Norway. The
horizon on the W. and N.W. is
bounded by the wall of the Hardanger
Fjeld : in the foreground the lovely
Mjos Vand winds N. westwards into
the heart of the mountains ; while to
the south a line of peaks extends
from Lie Fjeld, on the East, to the
hills beyond Vinje on the West. By
this route the pedestrian will, per
haps, see more of the real character of
107
the wilds of Tellemarken, than by fol

lowing the regular track from Kongs
berg to Jamsgaard ; but he must be
prepared for much discomfort, and
further, he will miss the church of
Hitterdal, though, if he intend to
visit the Fille-Fjeld, he may see one
of the same character at Borgund.
Some time is saved also by not re
turning to Kongsberg. From Dal to
Jamsgaard is about 64 m.
The EiuJcan to the Voring-fos.
Those desirous of going the most
direct way to Bergen from the Iliukanfos can take the Voring-fos en route.
In a direct line it lies about 9 m.
N.W. of the Kiukan-fos ; but the
country is so mountainous, and the
track consequently so circuitous, that
by the following way it is fully 17 N.
m., or 119 Eng. Let those who take
it beware of attempting short cuts,
unless so advised by their guide ;
nothing is more deceptive or dangerous
in such a tract and country as this is.
After leaving the Tind Sjo there are
no regular stations all the way to the
Voring-fos, and the distances between
those places where any food or shelter
is to be obtained are very long ; and
when such places are arrived at the
accommodations are miserable. It is
therefore essential to take food for
this journey, and it should only be at
tempted on horseback. The way from
Dal is down the valley of the Maan
to the Tind Sjo, and across it to
Sjothveit ; or turning off at Moel near
the lake, and keeping round the W.
end of it to Mareim, near the village
of Tind, and then continuing round
the lake to Sjoihveit. From here the
track leads through Luraas to Skaalebo up the valley of the Osboigd Mr.
Continuing from Skaalebo the track
crosses the mountains of the Tessung
Fjeld into the wild valley of the
Bjornedals Elv, on entering which, at
Bjorkeflaaten, our track turns up the
valley, and keeps to the W. through
Flaaten, and across high table land,
199
BOUTE 23. CHRtSTTANIA TO BERGEN.
barren and desolate, to Nybu, a short

distance N. of the Haarteigen moun
tain, 5700 feet high. From Nybu
the track keeps to the N.W. through
Maursoet to the' Vorirtg-fos. For de
scription, see page 178.
As this way is very seldom tra
versed, even by the natives, great care
should be taken not to start without
a guide, who is well acquainted with
it. And it should not be attempted ex
cept in summer, as the habitations are
so wide apart that it would be highly
dangerous to be caught in a snow
storm. When snow is upon the ground
the tracks are exceedingly difficult to
distinguish, even by the most ex
perienced guides, and wolves become
very daring. Above all, let those who
value their safety in this vast and
desert region beware how they at
tempt to traverse it without local
guides. Mr. Forester and Captain
Biddulph are among the few who
have crossed this part of the fjeld,
but by a slightly-different route.
They seem to have taken their de
parture from the head of Mjos Vand,
shaped their course N.N.W. to Normands-Laagen, a desolate lake, near
which the highest point seems to
have been reached, where the streams
began to flow westwards towards Hardanger. They followed one of these
down to Eidsfjord. This was in 1849.
They published an account of their
tour on their return, ' ' Forester's Nor
way in 1848 and 1849."
The direct Route to Bergen con
tinued. From Kongsberg a road leads
down the valley of the Lauven to
Laurvig, and other towns upon the
Christiania Fjord. See Route 24.
Our road keeps along the right bank
of the river for some distance, and
then turns off to the W. up the
valley of the Kaaberbergs Elv. This
is a long and very hilly stage. About
half-way upon it the Tellemarken
District is entered, alike famous for
its wildness, its poverty, and the
picturesque costume and appearance
Norway.
of the peasants, who, with the in

teriors of their smoke-dried houses,
afford a great variety of subjects for
the pencil.
Tinnces, 2i. A short distance
from hence a road is passed on the
left, which leads S. E. to the town of
Skien, in Route 24. The stream from
the Tind Sjti is then crossed, which
makes some picturesque falls near the
road ; and the Hitterdah Vand is
seen upon the left.
* Lysthuus, 4. Tolerable accommo
dation here. It is a lovely spot. From
hence a by-road leads N. to BamlekSse, 1, and Tinoset, 2. This is the
water station at the foot of the Tind
Sjo, on the way to the Riukan-fos.
From Lysthuus our road keeps W. up
the lovely mountain valley, Hitterdal,
beside the Hjerdals Elv. The village
of Hitterdal is a short distance from
Seem, on this stage. Examine its
most ancient and interesting wooden
church. It is one of the oldest in
Norway, and of the same period and
style as that at Borgund, on the Bergen
road, Route 21 ; and like that it is in
cluded in Professor Dahl's work of the
ancient Norwegian churches. Mr. Fer
guson, in his ' ' Illustrated Handbook
of Architecture," page 933, after re
gretting the destruction of the wooden
churches of Saxon and Norman times,
says: "The largest of these now
in Norway is that of Hitterdal. It
is 84 feet long by 57 across. Its plan
is that usual in churches of the age,
except that it has a gallery all round
on the outside. Its external appear
ance is very remarkable. It is more
like a Chinese pagoda, or some strange
creation of the South Sea Islanders,
than the sober production of the same
people, who built the bold and mas
sive round Gothic edifices of the same
age." Mr. Ferguson suggests that the
panels may once have been adorned by
Runic carving, which, as they decayed,
have been replaced by plain timbers,
detracting much of course from its
original appearance.
Norway.
ROUTE 23.TELLEMARKEN.
Bamble i Hitterdal, %. The road

still continues np this wild and pic
turesque valley, with the torrent on
the left all the way to next station.
About 4 m. beyond Bamble another
by-road is passed on the right, which
leads to Tinoset on the Tind Sjo ; and
still further on another branch of the
same road is also passed. The Skangs
Elv crosses the road on this stage.
Mossebo i Sauland, From hence
a horse-track leads N. to the Gousta
Fjeld and Riukan-fos. Our Route
still keeps up Hitterdalen.
Malandsmo, 1J. A short distance
onwards the road crosses the Hjerdals
Elv, and then turns S. ; soon crosses
the Svarie Elv, and, after a very
hilly stage, descends into the valley
of the Flodals Elv, near the Mad
Sjo.
Sundbo,
From hence two
horse-tracks run N.W. ,' one to the
Eiukan-fos, the other to the Totak
Vand. Our road keeps along the
bank of the Flad Sjo, and crosses
the stream from it into the Sillejord
Vand, along the bank of which
lake the road continues to the next
station. Here the road completes
tlje circuit of the Lie Fjcld, that
vast range of mountains, 4600 feet
high, kept on the left all the way
from Tinnoes.
Nordgaarden i Sillejord, 1. This
place is in the heart of Tellemarken.
" The women of this district wear a
red jacket, a black skirt, trimmed at
the bottom with yellow, and a short
vest, fastened by a celnture where the
jacket ends, and hanging in loose
plaits for some inches below. A
coloured handkerchief, tied round the
head, floats in the air behind. The
sides of the stockings are prettily
worked, and the shoes are ornamented
with large buckles, or star-shaped
pieces of leather. The costume of
the men is something like that in
which Charles XII. is drawn, or that
of the combatants in Spanish bull
fights :a short jacket of some de
199
cided colour ; a waistcoat striped, and

very gaudy ; dark breeches, with a
streak of red running down both
sides, and across the front ; worsted
stockings well worked ; broad em
broidered gaiters ; large knee-buckles,
and shoes embroidered like the wo
men's. Both sexes wear a profusion
of silver lace and trinkets upon their
persons."Elliott's Letters from the
North of Europe.
From Nordgaarden there is a road
S.E. to the town of Skien, in Route
24. On leaving Nordgaarden our road
again keeps S. W. up a steep valley,
with a torrent on the left, and then
across the N. end of the Broke Fjeld,
descending the mountains near the
head of the For Fjord. From Nord
gaarden to Apelstoen, where the
steamer on the Bandagsvand touches,
is J m. The days from Dal are
Monday, "Wednesday, and Saturday,
reaching Strcengen in about 6 hours ;
the boat returns on Tuesday, Wed
nesday and Saturday. The bear and
wolf are met with here at times, and
a considerable variety of winged game.
The lakes about here are large and
numerous, and the trout fine and
abundant.
Merge,, If. Another very hilly stage
leads across a range of mountains
S.W. to the village of Hoidalsmo,
where it again keeps W. to
Ofte, 1\. Excursions to Copper
Mines near Yalle.From Ofte a road
leads S. to Tviscet (14J on the magni
ficent Bandags Vand. The view from
Tvisoet is splendid. Close by on the
west is the church of Laurdal. From
hence crossing to the S. bank of the
Vand to Bandagslid the road con
tinues over uninteresting country to
Lillestuen, 3 m. Accommodation
bad, and horses are difficult to pro
cure on this road. From Lillestuen
there is a road to Arendal on Route
24. A horse-track also turns off to
the W., and crosses the mountains to
Soetersdal, which it enters a little to
the N. of Valle, in the neighbourhood
ROUTE 23.CHEISTIANIA TO BERGEN'.

of which are some copper mines. By
this route, in fine weather, some
beautiful views are obtained of the
wild mountains of Soatersdal and
Vatnedal. From Valle a station roa<l
runs S. through splendid scenery to
the large seaport town of Christiansand, Koute 24. From Valle another
track leads along the bank of the
beautiful Otter River, passing the
Ros Vand on the left, through Bykle,
and up Vattendalen to Suledals Vand,
which is crossed to Gautetun, and our
road to Bergen is reached at the
Roldal station. This excursion from
Ofte to Roldal is about 23 m. From
Valle to Bykle the track crosses the
celebrated Byklestigen, (the Ladder
of Bykle,) a path formed by logs of
wood driven into the rock, and
covered with sand. Here the ascent
of the Hardanger range commences,
but it is very gradual.
The direct road to Bergen con tinned.
From Ofte a horse-track leads N. to
the Totak Vand to the Riukan-fos.
Proceeding to Bergen our road passes
over a steep, desolate mountain tract
to
Tveten i Vinje, If. From hence
another track leads N. to the Totak
Vand. Crossing the stream from that
lake the road keeps up a steep valley
past Vinje Vand to
Jamsgaard, f. Here a track
between the Borts Vand on the S.W. ,
and the Totak Yand and Riukan-fos
on the N E., crosses. To the W.
another track leads towards the Bukn
Fjord, on the sea-coast, and the town
of Stavanger in Route 24. On leav
ing Jamsgaard the road leads up a
steep and grand mountain valley of
the Hardanger range, and the stage
ends at the Grunge Elv.
Nordgaard i Gangedal, 1J. The
Tvete Vand is passed on this stage,
and the scenery becomes more and
more wild, desolate, and mountainous.
The Venemos Elv is crossed near
Gugaard, 1J. Here the post-road
ends, and the route is no longer prac
Xorvay.
ticable for a carriole. Gugaarden

lies at the foot of the Houglifjeld. It
should be remarked, that in Norway,
the name "Hardanger Fjeld," is not
known. Hardanger, like Tellemarken,
is the name of a district, viz. that
tract lying along the eastern bank of
the Sor Fjord. A track between the
Suledals Vand on the W., and the
head of the Mjiis Vand on the N.E.,
crosses here.
The boundary of Tellemarken is
passed near the mountain of the Solfond Nup, which is seen close upon
the N., and the plateau of
The Houglifjeld is attained. After
crossing this plateau the road rapidly
descends into Roldalen, and the stage
ends by the lake of that name. The
scenery upon this stage is of the
wildest character, but the mountains
are mostly too round or flat to be very
picturesque in outline.
Rdldal, 44. From hence, and also
a short distance N. , there are bridle
tracks, S. W. to the Hyls Fjord, and
on to Vigedaborcn, where the high
road is entered between Stavanger
and Bergen, Route 24. The distance
from Roldal to Yigedalsoren is about
10 m.
Just before Roldal our route leads N.
by a steep ascent, and, after crossing
the ridge on passing a small lake, the
road enters the deep picturesque valley
down which its waters flow.
Seljestad, 2. The bridle track from
hence keeps down the valley of Gronsdal all the rest of the way to the
Sor Fjord.
HiIdol, 1. From hence the track
keeps by the W. bank of the Sandven
Vand (or the lake may be crossed in
a boat, which will save some time),
and, passing through the village of
Odde, reaches the water station at
the head of that splendid arm of the
Hardanger, the Sor Fjord. The
scenery all the way from Roldal here
along the deep valley of Grbnsdal is
of the grandest description, the vast
range of the Folge-fond lying on
Norway,
route 24.christianta to hammerfest.
the W., and that of the Hardanger

on the E.
Odcle, 1. From thence the ascent
may be made to
The Glacier of the 'Folge-fvnd.
The highest point is between Sauge
and Regne Nuten, and is estimated by
Professor Esmark to be upwards of
5000 feet above the level of the sea.
See Route 21. From hence in clear
weather the view is glorious over the
Hardanger Fjord and range of moun
tains to the E. Instead of returning
to Odde, the traveller can proceed
from Bondhuus on the west side of
the glacier down the fjord to the
fertile barony of Rosendal, a smiling
oasis in the midst of stupendous and
barren mountains. It lies to the
S.W., near the bank of the Hard
anger Fjord.
On quitting Rosendal, and going
on to Sandvik 1 m. S., tourists can
there embark, and proceed up the
fjord to Vikor on the N.W. bank,
visit the Ostud-fos, and go on to
Bergen through Steindalen and Haalanddal. See Route 21.
The Hardanger Fjord, see also
Route 21. Be provided with some
provisions before starting on these
long water stages, and a bottle of
brandy for the men will facilitate
matters.
From Odde the scenery down the
Stir Fjord is grand in the extreme.
The valleys leading from it to the
E. abound in fine scenery and pic
turesque waterfalls.
Jlclleland, 2. On the E. bank
from hence the Voring-fos may be
visited, by proceeding to Vik 2J up
the Eid Fjord. See Vossevangen,
Route 21.
Continuing down the fjord from
Helleland the next station is
Vine, 1, on the W. bank. From
thence, rounding the N.E. foot of the
Folge-foud, the Hardanger Fjord is
entered ; the scenery continues of
grand Alpine character to
Vikor, 24, on the N.W. bank of
201
the Hardanger Fjord : near here is

the Ostud-fos, see Route 21, which
for its height is perhaps the most
picturesque of all the great Norwegian
falls. From Vikor to
Jondalsbren, 1, across the fjord;
from here the Glacier of the Folgefond may be ascended ; or further
down the same side of the fjord at
Bondhuus. From Jondalsiiren down
the fjord the scenery continues most
grand, and abounds in waterfalls.
Gjermundsham, 2.
Huse, 1J, on the high road from
Stavanger to Bergen, Route 24, and
only 7 m. from the latter.
ROUTE 24.
CHRISTIANIA 10 HAMMERFEST AND
THE NORTH CAPE ROUND THE COAST
BY LAND.
Distances.
Norsk. English.
Christiania to Christiansand . . . . 32| or 227
Christiansand to Stavan
ger
25| 177
Stavanger to Bergen . 18f ,, 133
Bergen to Molde . . 39| ,, 275
Molde to TTondhjem . 20J ,, 143
Trondhjem to the Namsen
18|
The Namsen to Hammer
fest
83| ,, 584
Hammerfestto the North
Cape
13 ,, 91
Totals . . 251|
1762
There is now steam communication

every week between Christiania and
Hammerfest, and this route is little
used, except over small portions,
where the traveller may wish to
disembark from the steamer, and
rejoin it again at some other point.
The descriptions of the towns are
therefore for the most part given in
Route 25.
20-2
ROUTE 24.
CHRIST1ANIA TO HAMMERFEST.
The only carriage to be taken upon

this route is the carriole, and even
that it would be better to sell at
Stavanger if it be intended to pass
any time in exploring the scenery
upon the Hardanger or Stigne Fjords.
When required another can easily be
purchased, either in Bergen or else
where. The carriole can be taken in
almost any boat, but of'course entails
additional trouble and expense.
With the exception of those on the
E. side of the Christiania Fjord, this
route comprises almost all the towns
in Norway, and consequently is of
much importance to those who may
be travelling for commercial objects.
The water stages are numerous,
and often very long. Most of the
stations upon them are good, particu
larly N. of Trondhjem ; but meat
and white bread can but seldom be
obtained, except in the towns. The
tourist should therefore, if possible,
never be without a small supply of
provisionssuch is the custom of the
country. For the water stages a keg
of water, with a drinking-cup, water
proof cape, or coat, and stout boots
are essential to comfort. A bottle of
brandy and some tobacco as presents
to the men occasionally are also ad
visable.
When sailing, never allow the
sheet to be fixed, but always see that
it is kept well in hand, as squalls
from the mountains are frequent,
and at times very dangerous, if this
be not most strictly attended to. A
good supply of small money must not
be forgotten. .
From the town of Frederiksvoern
to that of Ekersund, and again from
the town of Stavanger to the N.
Cape (with very few exceptions),
there are regular water stations all
the way ; so that those who desire it
may make almost all the journey in
boats. Nearly the whole length of
coast from S. to N. is protected by a
reef of islands, and it is between
them and the mainland that the
Norway.
water stages usually run ; the sea

being there quite still, however rough
it may be outside. Some of these
islands are large, and contain red
deer. Occasionally a bear may be
met with. Quantities of wild fowl
frequent most of them, particularly
N. of Trondhjem.
Christiania to Christiansand.
Dist. 32j| Norsk miles, or 227 Eng.
From Christiania to Drammen, as in
Route 23, dist. 4 miles. There are
two post stations in Drammen ; one
on the east side (Bragences), and one
on the W. (Stromso), where horses
can be ordered.
+ Oxtre, 1. Rather hilly on
leaving Drammen.
+ Revaa, J. Good level road.
f Holmestrand, 1\. Hotel, Ma
dame Becker's, well spoken of. This
small town is chiefly supported by
ship-building. The rocks overhanging
the water here are particularly fine :
and the birch beautifully intermingled
with the dark fir, gives an agreeable
variety to the foliage. [From Hol
mestrand a road diverges to Svelvig
and Drobak. The stations are Hol
mestrand to Sando, \ by water; to
Svelvig, H ; to Klokkerstuen, ; to
Drobak, 1^. It is, however, far
better to go by water to all these
places on the fjord by steamer
wherever possible.]
Excursion to Horten. From Hol
mestrand a road to the E. leads by
Bruserod, f, and Horten, 1|. For
description, see Route 25.
From Horten there is a road which
joins our route at Fyldpaa by Kjcer,
lg. Fyldpaa, j. Close to Borre
church, between Horten and Kjcer,
there are several tumuli, dating
probably from the period when there
was a royal residence there.
Direct Route to the North Cape,
continued from Holmestrand.
t Sollerod, If.
* + Fyldpaa, f. From hence a
road S.E. leads to Tonaberg, \ m.
This town is beautifully situated,
Nm-way.
.eoute 24.bound the coast by land.
203
facing S.W., at the head of a small mineralogist. The beautiful crystals

fjord, and, though now of little note, of iridescent felspar that shine in
was formerly one of the largest in them are seen at a distance of several
Norway, and indeed for a long period . yards."Everest's Norway, p. 23.
was the only town in the southern The view of the town from the water
division of the kingdom. Previous is very picturesque.
to the Calmar Union, it possessed 10
Route to the North Cape, con
churches and monasteries, and a tinued from Laurvig. The forma
fortified castle called TiSnsberg-huus.
tion of the coast here renders a con
In the year 1536 it was totally siderable detour requisite in this land
destroyed hy fire, and since that route. Those who wish to proceed
period it has been unable to recover at once to the westward may save
its former importance. Of its 10 some hours and several miles by
churches but 1 remains, and scarcely taking horses to Helgeraaen, 1J, from
any traces exist of the site of the thence proceed by boat across the
castle. About half an English mile fjord to Langesund, if, and there
from Tonsberg is "Jarlsberg," the again take horses to Udgaarden, 1J.
seat of the Counts Wedel Jarlsberg. Steamers run from Langesund to
It was formerly the property of Skien, calling at Brevig, and PorsCount Griffenfeld (Schumacker), the grund. The next station is at
Vasbotten, |. Bad road after Laur
favourite but unpopular minister of
Frederic III., who, after long basking vig.
in the sunshine of royal favour, was
f Zanner, 1J. A hilly stage. From
exiled for a period of 18 years to the Lanner a road to the N.W. leads into
dreary fortress of Munkholm in the the Bergen road, Route 23, through
Trondhjem Fjord. The VallS Salt the town of + Porsgrund, J m. It
Works are upon the Christiania is a place of some trade, and con
Fjord, 4 m. from Tonsberg ; the tains two small churches. The Amtsteamers for the capital and the mand (principal civil officer) of the
districts to the east and west call province resides here. On the N.W. of
Porsgrund, and on the way to the Ber
there.
gen road, likewise the town of Skien, f.
t Sorby, f.
+ HaukerOd, 1. On the S. of This is the largest town in the pro
this place, \ m. dist., is the little vince of Bratsberg, and one of the
town of Sandefjord, which is situated most ancient cities in Norway ; the
at the head of a deep bay, and has church is a respectable brick build
lately risen into the dignity of a ing, there are several saw-mills in
bathing-place, being much resorted the town, and a considerable export
to during the summer by the inhabi trade to England and France is carried
on. Between Porsgrund and Skien
tants of Christiania.
* f Laurviq, 14. There are two are the ruins of an old Catholic
respectable hotels here. For descrip chapel.
From Skien the road passes along
tion, see Route 25.
The town of Frederiksvcern is | of the South side of the Nord Sjo, at the
head
of which the road divides ; the
a mile from Laurvig on the S. Inns
wretched. This place is a station right runs through a splendid pine
for the royal fleet ; and the seat of forest, and enters Route 23 near the
the Naval Academy. Many naval Tinnoes station, on the way to the cele
oflicers, with their families, reside brated Riukan-fos, or the town of
here, which makes the society Kongsberg, distant 10J nis. from
pleasant. "The hills about this Skien ; the left enters the same route
town might well make any one a on the way to Bergen at the Nordgaar
204
EOUTE 24.
CHHISTIAKIA TO HAMSIEEFEST.
den station on the Sillejord Vand.

See page 199, Route 23. A steamer
runs from Fja;rstrand at the South
end of Nord Sjo to the North end
of Hitterdals Vand, near Tangen,
Route 23. There is another steamer
on Bandags Vand. The scenery upon
the upper part of the Nord Sjo is
grand, and the costume and dwel
lings of the peasants, in that wild
part of Tellemarken, are highly pic
turesque. The fishing and general
shooting to be had in Tellemarken are
also well spoken of. The trout and
other fish are fine and plentiful in the
lakes and streams which abound in
this district ; and the bear, wolf, and
a variety of winged game are said to
be numerous in the mountains. Some
of the peasants are capital shots ; they
generally use only the rifle ; bore very
small.
Route to the North Cape, continued
from Lanner.
BiiEVia, \\. This is a small town
built on the point of a promontory
in the Langesund Fjord. It contains
about 2000 inhabitants. The scenery
about here is bold and fine. On leav
ing this place the fjord is crossed by a
ferry of about 4 an Eng. m. to the
little town of SlatheUe, from whence
a road leads to the small town of
Langesund at the mouth of the fjord,
distant 4 m. From Stathelle the
stage continues to
* Udrjaarden, J, pay for 1.
Jtosseland, J.
+ Odcgaarden, \\, pay for 1J.
+ Humlestad, $, pay for 1. From
hence a road leads S. E. to the coast at
The town of Kragcrde, \\. This
is a small place famous for the good
ness of its oysters. Near here, in the
island of Langoe, there are some iron
mines. Continuing from Humlestad,
the next station is at
+ Holte, or Oster-Rbad, 14- Ascent
for half of this stage, the rest de
scent. From hence the small lake of
Geifestad is crossed near the Osterriisiier iron works.
Norway.
Roed, or Vester-Roed, \\, pay for

If. Between these two stages there
is a ferry at Holtsund. Close here a
road to the East leads to the town of
* Osterriisber, 1, pay for 14. This is
a small place, and only known as one
of the many harbours of refuge on
this coast. Continuing from Roed,
the next station is
* + Angelstad, 1|, pay for If. At
Noes, 4 m. W. of this, there are the
most valuable iron mines in the coun
try. And on the coast f m. S. is the
town of Tvedestrand, a little place
from whence iron is shipped, which
is produced at Nces. Continuing from
Angelstad the next station is
+ Broskke, 1J, pay for 14.
f Blodekjar, J, pay for 1J. Hence
a road goes to Akekdal, 1 m. See
Route 25.
Neersteen, . This is only J of a
m. from Arendal.
Bringsvcerd, \. A short distance
from hence a road leads S. to the coast
at the small town of Grimstad, 4 m.
It has little foreign trade, and is
chiefly supported by ship-building.
Continuing from Bringsvcerd, the next
station is
Landvig, f. From hence to Grimstad it is also 4 m. by another road E.
Tingmker, If. From hence to
the town of Lillesand is \. This
place is beautifully situated upon the
coast and sheltered from every wind.
It was formerly a town of some im
portance, but is now one of the
smallest in Norway, all its trade hav
ing been removed to the neighbouring
towns of Arendal and Christiansand.
A short distance from the road, be
tween Tingsaker and this town, on
the left, is Moland chui-ch, where
there is a lofty Runic stone. Con
tinuing from Tingsaker our route
quits the coast, and runs inland to
2'vede, 1J.
Aabel, I, pay for j. Near here
the Topdals Eh is crossed. It was
here that Mr. T. W. Lassells, of
Liverpool, killed 216 salmon, and rose
Norway,
koute M.by christiansand to stavanger.
465, as related in his published ac

count, between June 30th and July
19th, 1841, weighing 2145 lbs., the
largest being 30 lbs.
" Tempora mutantur."
The artist will find ample occupation
on its banks. There is a road from
hence along the river to the N. E. at
the village of Topdal 9 m. distant.
Down the bank of the river "to its
mouth is Kjevik, 1J, and thence by
water to Christiansand about 1.
From Aabel the river is crossed by
a ferry, and the road winds round the
Topdals Fjord to
. f Kosiol, If.
Chkistiahsand, 1J. Inns: The
Britannia good, but it is said Herr
Rosenkilde's is better: the latter,
however, is frequently full. For
description of Christiansand, see
Route 25.
Excursions.Three miles up the
Torrisdals Elv there is a fine fall,
Hel-fos. The road is along the bank
of the river through a grand pass ;
and the salmon-fishing near Hel-fos
is well spoken of.
To the Hardanger Fjord.From
Christiansand the most direct road to
this magnificent fjord is through some
of the most beautiful scenery in the
S. of Norway. But this route must
not be taken excepting by those capa
ble, as well as willing, to incur much
fatigue and the roughest accommoda
tion at the station-houses, most of
which are miserably poor. The road
leads N. through Soetersdal by a suc
cession of lakes and rivers, and passes
numerous waterfalls and cascades.
As carrioles can only be taken part
of the way, that is, to Ryssestad, or
Rige, it would be the best and cheapest
plan to make the journey on horseback.
The distance to the Hardanger Fjord
is 34 ms.
The stations are from Christiansand
to
Moshy, 1 mile.
205
Uommnoen, 1\.
Ileiersdal, 1.
Jlegeland, \\.
Moi, 1J.
Fa/tret, j.
Guldsmedmoen, \\. Here you cross
Otteraaen.
Langerak, 1.
Aahhuus, 1J. Heavy road.
Froisnoes, 1 J. Here you again cross
the Otteraaen to
Langeeid, 1^.
Mysseslad, 1 {. Between these stages
you again cross the Otteraaen to
Rige, If.
Biorneraae, 2\. The last stage you
have to leave your carriole, and take
to the saddle, as there is only a rid
ing road. A few years ago some
copper mines were being worked in
Soetersdal, which are said to have
been productive, and to have been
discontinued solely on account of dif
ficulties experienced in the reduction
of the ores ; at any rate, for want of
unanimity and capital among the
proprietors, the works were discon
tinued. The best accommodation is
at Fahret, Langerak, Froisna'S, Rige,
but at none of them is it over good.
If the wind is fair, a water skyds on
Kile Fjord or Bygland Fjord saves
time. A level road, and uninterest
ing scenery, till Byggland ; thence
very fine. From Yalle, a horse-path
leads to the N.E., to Route 23, at
Ofte. From Bjorneraa a horse-path
leads to Bykle, 1J; Vatnedal, 2;
Breivik, 1 ; Jordbrcckke in Suldal, 3 ;
Gautetun, by land \, and by water \ ;
Botten, 2 ; and Roidal, 1. Here Route
23 is joined.
ChrUtimisand to Stavanger.
Dist. 25| Norsk m., or 177 Eng. .
' ' The first half of the road, as far as
Oldestad (beyond the Eye or Eide
Station), is of extraordinary beauty
and interest. Here the great Scandi
navian chain of mountains dips into
the sea, and the road passes it by
crossing the valleys and ridges at right
806
route 24.chrtstiania to hammerfest.
angles. As the lulls are very rocky,

the valleys much interspersed with
lakes and arms of the sea, and as the
abundant wood is of a more varied
character, owing to the milder climate,
than is common in these Northern
regions, and as all the features of
the landscape are of moderate size,
there is an endless variety of the most
pleasing objects, and the traveller
passes for 70 or 80 E. m. through a
series of the most charming scenes of
rock, wood, and water, which pass be
fore his eyes with a rapidity of suc
cession and prodigality of beauty that
would perhaps be difficult to match in
Europe.
' ' The latter half of the road is of a
very different character, being for the
most part over a wild dreary moor,
with little of interest. About Haar
the road is actually taken over the
sea-beach below the level of the high
tides. Towards Stavanger every now
and then may be seen one of those
large unhewn upright stones which
have given so much occupation to
antiquaries."C. T. N.
From Christiansand, hilly road,
with the exception of the first \ of
a mile. Between Christiansand and
the next stage the Sogne River is
dossed, in which there is good fishing.
+ Lunde, If. Between this stage
and Mandal you are ferried over the
Trys Fjord.
+ Vatne, If.
* + Mandal, 1J. The river Mandal
flows through the centre of this small
town, which is of little note, except
ing as a harbour of refuge. The
salmon-fishing is spoken well of, and
the shooting is also good, black game
and woodcocks being abundant.
+ Vigeland, 1{. Tolerable road.
+ Fahret, 2 1 . From this stage there
is a good road to Farsund, 2 m.
Tjumsland, 1. Between these you
cross the bridge that has been thrown
over the Lyngdals River, where the
ferry formerly was. From this sta
tion to the N. a station-road leads
Norway.
up the picturesque valley of that

river to the head of the Lynge Vand.
There the station-road ends, but a
horse-track continues N. over the
mountains to Brokkebod, on the
Jlaadg Vandthere the track sepa
rates, leading to Valle in Soetersdal
on the E. , and to the head of Lyse
Fjord on the W. The accommoda
tions on this route are rude in the
extreme, but it has great attractions
for the angler and lover of wild
mountainous scenery.
Jton'iy, 1J. Hilly road.
Fede, J. The Ovinna flows into
the fjord { m. N.E, of this place.
It affords some good fishing, and fine
mountain scenery. There is a sta
tion-road up the valley for 2.| miles.
Between this and the next stage you
are ferried over the Fede Fjord, which
is sometimes difficult to cross.
* Fleklcefjord, 1. Hilly road. A
small town, containing about 3000
inhabitants, and carries on a con
siderable trade. The harlnur is
good.
Sirnws, If. Hilly road. About
g m. from this station you cross a
very pretty chain bridge which has
been thrown over the Siri River.
Nysted, or Moi, 1, pay for 1J.
The road passes the so-called Tronaas.
From Nysted there is a road to Soggendal, viz.:Midland, 1J ; Hauge,
; Soggendal,' 1J. From Hauge you
can go to Egersund, viz. :Ougendal,
14 ; Svances, 1; and Egersund, 1.
Eye in Hosskestad, 1 1. Good level
road.
Kefdand, . Ditto.
Svalestad, $. Good road. From
Svalestad to Egersund it is 1J m.
From Svalestad you can likewise go
by the following road to Stavanger,
viz. :Birkrem, 1 ; Vigesaa, j ; Fuglestad, j ; Kyllingstad, f ; Aalgaard,
1 ; Strandstedet Sannoes, 14 ; Stavan
ger,
This road, though shorter,
is seldom used, as it is very indif
ferent.
Slcltebo, 1. Level, good road.
Norway.
boute M.by stavanger to bebgen
From this station it is only J m. to

Egersnnd.
Hegreslad, 1. Level good road,
with the exception of a few hills near
Tegnsbridge.
Hblleland. j. Hilly road.
Hoar, 1. Level good road.
Hohberstad, f. Ditto.
Soyland, f. Ditto.
Ree, 4. Ditto.
Schiefeland, J. Ditto, with the
exception of one hill, Tubakken.
Sannms, f. Level good road.
Stavanger, 1. Ditto. 59J from
Christiania.
From Stavanger there are numerous
excursions well worthy the attention
of the traveller. In addition to those
exploring the minor branches of the
Stavanger Fjord, and their various
tributary streams (all having their
falls and cascades), by taking boat
from Stavanger to Holle, 4 m., and
thence up the Lyse Fjord to its head
at Lyse, about 4 m., a horse-path
leads from thence to Valle in Soetersdal. (See Christiansand. )
From Stavanger also the grand
scenery on the Hardanger Fjord may
be explored en route to Bergen. The
way there is by the Water Stations,
across the vast Bukke Fjord, thence
to the N.E. up one of its branches,
the Sands Fjord, and E. to the head
of Hyls Fjord at Hylen, along Suledals Vand to Roldal, (page 200, lioute
23, ) and in the immediate vicinity of
the finest part of the Hardanger Fjeld.
From Stavanger to the Hardanger
Fjord by this road is about 19 m.
For particulars of the scenery on the
Hardanger Fjord, see Routes 21 and
23.
At Hougesund (one of the stations
on the coast in going to Bergen by
water), the gravestone of Harald
Haarfager, the first king of all Nor
way, may be seen. At least so it is
called, and the popular belief here
is, that he was buried there. But
that such was not the fact appears
more than doubtful, as by another
2or
account the place of his interment is

stated to have been " one of his ma
nors in Drontheim;" and that "near
the spot a magnificent heathen tem
ple was erected, which was standing
in the days of Snorro."Dunham's
History of Norway, &c, vol. i. p.
183, who cites Harold JIarfagre's
Saga, c. 45.
Route to Bergen by open boats.
Those who prefer going on from hence
to Bergen by water can do so, and the
following are the stations. Dist. 16 m.
Fielddsn, 14 ; Forresvig, 14; *Kopervik, 1 ; this is a very small town
on the island of Karm ; * Hougesund,
1 (mentioned above as to King Ha
rald Haarfager); Lyngholmen, 14 ;
Tjernagelen, 1 ; * Mosterhavn, 1 ;
*Folgeriien, 1 ; Engersund, 1 ; Bcekkervigen, 1 ; Ostre Bagholm, 1 ; Bukken, 14 ; Bergen, 2.
Stavanger to Bergen.
Continuing by the land route, dist.
18| Norsk m. (10 of which are by
water), or 133 Eng. The first 5 stages
are by water.
Gangeiues, 1 ; on the large Island
of Rennisbe.
Judeberget, 1 ; on the Island of
Findoe.
Jelsoestranden, 2 ; upon the main
land. From hence the mouth of the
Sands Fjord is crossed, and our way
is up the Ncerstrands Fjord to
Vigedakosen, If.
Troiet, ^. From hence the next 3
stages are by land.
*Aalung, J. At the head of the
Uleii Fjord. From this and the two
next stages there are water stations
all the way, should it be desired not
to continue the land journey.
Etnesben, 1 ; or by water, 1.
t Lehnais, 1. From hence the
mouth of the Mattre Fjord (a branch
of the Bommel Fjord) is crossed.
Excursion to the Hardanger Fjord.
From the Mattre Fjord that of the
Aakre branches off and winds away
to the N.E., amongst the snow-clad
208
ROUTE 24.
CHRISTIAXIA TO HAMMERFEST.
mountains of the Folge-fond. The

scenery becomes very grand towards
the head of the Aakre Fjord, near
Fjcere, from whence a horse-track
leads to Seljestad, on the way to the
Hardanger Fjord ; Route 23. Those
desirous of taking this wild route
had better proceed to the next sta
tion (Olfernoes), from whence to Sel
jestad is about 7 m., and to the
Hardanger Fjord at Odde, 10 m.
For travellers who are upon this part
of the coast, this is the best route for
exploring the grand scenery of the
Hardanger Fjord, as it enables those
who take it to traverse the whole
fjord and enter the road to Bergen
again at its mouth, without going
over any part of the way twice. For
particulars of the scenery, see Vossevangen in .Route 21, and Odde in
Route 23.
The next station from Leknoss is
Olfernces, f. From hence the two
next stages are by land, round the
foot of the Folge-fond.
Valdai, j.
Hehigen, 1. (From hence to Ber
gen there are water stations all the
way, should it be desired not to con
tinue the land journey. ) This station
is on the S. side of the Hardanger
Fjord, and is a good pointfrom whence
to explore its beauties. From here the
fjord is crossed to
Htise, 1J. Thence by land to
Sundfjord, \. (Water stations again
all the way to Bergen.) From here
the Strande Fjord is crossed to
Swrvold, if. Thence by land to
Fuse, f. Here Bj'orne Fjord, a
branch of the Strande Fjord, is cross
ed to
Halxigen, J ; and the next 3 stages
into Bergen are by land.
Oumren, J.
Atlestad, If.
Bergen, lj. For Inns, and de
scription of this city, see Route 21.
Excursion to the Sogne Fjord (see
Leirdaltoren, Route 21). The scenery
along the coast, between Bergen and
Noniay.
this fjord, is not very picturesque,

therefore the best plan is to follow
Route 21 from Bergen to Leirdahoren, at the head of the fjord. From
thence to visit the Fille-Fjeld, the
glaciers of Justedal, &c, and then
drop down the fjord, rejoining this
route at the Leervik station near the
coast, or one of the places where
the steamer calls to the N. or S. of
the entrance of the fjord.
A steamer runs from Bergen to
Leirdalsoren, on Tuesday evenings,
returning on Wednesday mornings.
Bergen to Molde.
Dist. 39f Norsk m., or 275 Eng.
This part of the route comprises the
most picturesquely grand scenery in
the country. . The coast scenery upon
the line taken by the steamers, be
tween Bergen and Trondhjem, is com
paratively very uninteresting to that
by land after passing the Sogne Fjord.
All who have time, and can bear the
fatigue, are therefore strongly advised
to take the land route. It is prac
ticable for carrioles, but horseback or
foot would spare much trouble, and
be preferable, except taking a longer
time. There are 15 fjords to be
crossed ; the scenery upon most of
them is superb, and but little known
to tourists. They may perhaps be
told, even by respectable persons in
Bergen, that it is scarcely possible to
pass this way, but let them not heed
that.
Most of the land stations are poor ;
some provisions should therefore be
taken, and brandy for the boatmen.
These men are generally careful and
skilful, but, when sailing, the greatest
care should be taken never to allow
the sheet to be fixed.
There are two modes of getting from
Bergen to the N. side of the Sogne
Fjord ; one entirely by boats, and the
other partially by land. Should the
wind be fair the water route will be
the best to adopt, as the scenery by
land is not only uninteresting, but the
Norway.
BOUTE 24.
BY BERGEN TO MOLDE.
roads and stations are wretched. The

stages by water are
*Alvestrbmmen, 2 ; Kiilstrommen,
2\ ; Skejerjehavn, 1j ; Leervig, 2 ;
in all, 8| m. Steamer to Leervig will
save much trouble.
The stages by the land route are
Rbdland, 1.
Ilorvig, 1. Here the Oster Fjord
is crossed to
Jsdaal, i.
Ncese, If. Here a small bay is
crossed to
Hundven, f. The station is some
little distance from the landing-place.
Lindaas, 1.
Fanebust, J. Here the Mas Fjord
is crossed, and the stage continues by
'land along the foot of the steep moun
tains to the Steemfjeld on the E. to
Fid (or Eie), 1j. Thence by water
to
Nordyulena, 1\. From hence the
way lies across a steep ridge to
Rutledal, 1 . From here the Soyne
Fjord is crossed to
* Leervig, \\, and the scenery be
comes magnificent. From hence the
4 next stages are by land, through
most grand mountain passes and very
fine wild scenery.
Syttad, 1.
Skaar, 1.
FUdclce,.\\.
Troth, \. This station is on the
S. side of Dale Fjord, the scenery
upon which is most beautiful. To the
E. the grand range of the Jusledak
mountains is seen. From Trods our
route is by water up the fjord to
*Svcen, 1\. There is good accom
modation to be had here. From
hence the next 4 stages are by land.
Langeland, 1.
* Havstad, 1. This station is at
the head of the Forde Fjord, where
a fine stream, affording some excellent
fishing, falls into it.
From hence our road turns E. up a
beautiful valley. Two fine cataracts
fall into a small lake passed on the
left.
209
Moe, \. Road continues to wind

up the valley through very fine
scenery and a splendid forest of pine
trees.
* Ncdrevasenden, 1. Good quar
ters. This station is at the foot of
the Jolster Vand, a small but beauti
ful lake, surrounded by lofty moun
tains. The stage from here is by
water to the head of the lake at
Skci, 1J. The scenery upon this
stage is of the grandest description.
The road winds through a deep and
narrow ravine, in mountains of enor
mous height, and rising perpendicu
larly in many places. The justedals
range is upon the S.E. , the highest
parts of which are estimated at 7000
feet. The huge masses of rock fallen
from above give a vast air of deso
lation to the scene up this grand ra
vine.
Forde, 1. From hence the Breum
Vand is crossed to
Reed,
This place is charm
inglysituated amidst splendid scenery.
From hence the glaciers of the Juste
dah mountains are visible.
From Reed the road is carried up
a very steep ascent, commanding splen
did views of the Justedals to the S. E. ,
and of the long peaked range of the
Lang Fjeld to the E.
Moldestad, 4.
Vdvigen, 1. Beautifully -situated
on the margin of the Indrig Fjord,
the most E. branch of the Vaags
Fjord. It would amply repay the
lover of Alpine scenery to explore
the numerous tributary lakes at the
head of this grand fjord. The sports
man would have a good chance of
finding a bear or two there, besides
small game and reindeer in the moun
tains. From Udvigen the Indvig
Fjord is crossed to
Faleidet, 1. Higher up the head
of the fjord, from Taaning, a horsetrack leads E. through the mountains
by Vaage Vand into Gudsbrandsdaen, at the Laurgaard Station, ltoute
26. And from Oldiiren, at the head
310
ROUTE 34. CHRISTIANIA TO HAMMERFEST.
of this fjord, another horse-track runs

S. through some of the wildest coun
try in Norway, by Justedal to the
head of the Sogne Fjord at Leirdalsoren, in Route 21.
From Faleidet, along the coast, the
next stage is by land to
Kjosebunden, 1. The scenery con
tinues to be very wild, and of great
beauty and grandeur, during this and
the 4 subsequent stages.
Grodaan, J by water, or J by land.
This station is near the head of the
Hormnfjtkih Vand. From hence the
road winds up a grand valley by a
steep ascent to
Hauycn, f. At the end of this
stage the road descends to
Thronstad, 1.
*Hellesylt, |. This station is at
the head of the most S. branch of
the Stbr Fjord, and close by there is
a very grand cascade. The scenery
upon this fjord is exceedingly fine, and
the costume of the peasants about
here very picturesque. From hence
by water down the fjord to Slyngstad
it is 2J. But there is another route
by water to
Ljoen, \. And thence by land to
Helstad, If, and
Slyngstad, f. From hence there
are stages to Relingden, 2\, and
Sylte, | m. , near the head of the
N. branch of the Stb'r Fjord ; and
from Sylte a horse-path leads across
the mountains of the Lang Fjeld to
the Nystuen Station, in Ronisdalen,
Eoute 30.
Continuing .down the fjord from
Slyngstad the scenery gradually be
comes less bold to
* Sbholt, 2J, on the N. side of the
fjord, and an excellent station.
Excursion loAalesund, from Soholt.
The first stage is partly by water to
Sorte, 1J, Roiset, 1J.
Aalescnd, li. This town is
small, but very picturesquely situ
ated, and the views from it of the
distant peaked range of the Lang
Fjeld, on the S.E., are exceedingly
NortvaiJ.
grand. Although of recent date,

this place already carries on a con
siderable trade with Spain and Italy,
chiefly in cod fish. The harbour is
admirably sheltered, particularly the
inner one, which is quite secure in
all weathers. The vessels from hence
have adopted the new mode of fish
ing for cod, invented about 20 years
since. Long nets with a large mesh,
and about 7 feet deep, are sunk to
the bottom of the sea where the cod
feed ; several of these large nets are
joined together ; the fish become en
tangled in the nets, and in this man
ner 1000 are sometimes taken at a
single haul.
The country about here abounds in
historical associations connected with
the ancient history of Norway and her
sea kings, and the legends are nume
rous and interesting.
About 1 Norsk mile W. of Aalesund is the small island of Oidshoe,
formerly the residence of one of the
most powerful families in Norway.
The remains of the old family chapel
are still visible.
A little to the S. of Aalesund was
the liorg, or Castle of Hrolf Gangr,
or Rollo the Walker, "so called be
cause he was so tali and robust that
no Norwegian horse could carry him."
He was the conqueror and founder of
the Duchy of Normandy, and ances
tor of our William the Conqueror.
After several years' hostility with the
French, their sovereign, Charles the
Simple, opened a negotiation with
Rollo, which terminated in his em
bracing Christianity and being bap
tized as Robert ; and thereupon
Charles gave him Gisele, his na
tural daughter, in marriage, and in
vested him with the Fief and title
of Duke of Normandy, A. p. 912,
The followers of Robert also em
braced Christianity, and settled in
Normandy. Upon Robert's investi
ture, part of the ceremony of the
homage to be done by him upon the
occasion consisted in his kissing the
Norway.
eoote 24. by molde to trondhjem.
king's foot. This the herculean con

queror was too proud to do, and was
therefore allowed to appoint a de
puty, but he proved to be as haughty
as his master. Upon Charles raising
his foot to be kissed, the bold Norse
man raised it still higher, and threw
the poor monarch on his back, amidst
the suppressed laughter of the assem
bly.Dmikam's History of Norway,
&o., v. i. p. 811.
The Steamers between Christiansand and Trondhjem call here in
going both up and down the coast.
For the road from Aalesund to the
grand valley of Romsdalen, see Route
30.
The neighbourhood of Soholt is
very picturesque. The road upon
this stage crosses the peninsula be
tween Aalesund and Molde.
Mellingsgaard, \\.
+ Vestnas, 1. Tolerable accommo
dation. From hence the Molde Fjord
is crossed to
* Molde, 1J. For description
of this town, see Route 30, up
Romsdalen, which splendid valley
should, if possible, be visited from
hence. This is another place of
call for the Steamers up and down
the coast.
Molde to Trondhjem.
Dist. 20J Norsk miles, or 143 Eng.
Almost all the stations on this route
are bad. Provisions must be taken.
Nearly the whole of the first 3
stages from hence are along the N.
hank of the Fanne Fjord, a branch
of the Molde, through pleasing scenery
by
* Lonsaet, 1.
* Eide, 1. On this stage will be
seen a mountain called Skole. It is
on the S. side of the fjord, of extra
ordinary form, and said to be about
3000 feet high. Everest's Norway,
p. 207.
Forsceth, f.
Gimnces, If.
211
Excursion to Chrhtiansund.
From Gimnces a road leads off our
Route to the coast upon the N.W.
through Taarvik, f, thence by water
across the grand Salaup Fjord to
the island of Frioe at Fredo 1, and
by land across the island to Bolgen,
I ; from here by water to
Chkistiansund, 1$. This town is
built upon 3 islands, and forms
almost a circle round its beautiful
landlocked harbour. In entering
from the sea, not a vestige of a house
is to be seen until the narrow passage
between the islands is passed, when
this irregularly-built town is at once
opened up like magic. The three
islands are named Kirkeland, Nordland, and Inland, and so irregular is
the ground upon them, that scarcely
any two houses stand exactly on the
same level. They are all of wood,
and, as usual, covered with red
ochre. The population is about
4000. The trade of the town is fast
rising in importance. It consists
chiefly of stock-fish exported to
Spain and Italy. Fresh fish are also
cheap and abundant herefine cod of
about 4 lbs. each for Id. English.
The Steamers' up and down the coast
call here. On the S.W. of Christiansund is the large island of
Averoen, at the N. extremity of
which (half a mile distant from
Cliristiansund) is the village of Bremnoes, near which, in the mountain
overhanging a farm, there is a re
markable cavern.
Route continued, from ' Gimnoes.
The scenery again becomes romantic
and beautiful, and, towards the end
of the stage, the long S. branch of
the Salaup Fjord comes in sight.
It is called Tingvold Fjord, and the
scenery upon it is very grand, parti
cularly towards the head, where it
penetrates amongst the mountains of
the Dovre Fjeld. There also the
Sundals Elv falls into it. This grand
stream takes its rise in the Dovre
212
EOUTE 24.
CHRISTIAXIA TO HAMJ1ERFEST. NonVOjf.
Fjeld, some miles S. of the celebrated

mountain of Sneehcetten (Route 26),
and throughout its course abounds
in falls, cascades, and magnificent
scenery ; in the lower parts of it the
fishing is good.
Angvik, 1, on the W. side of the
fjord. From hence to the head of it
at Sundalsbren there are 4 stages ;
in all i\ m. ; and from thence, up
Sundalen, there is a carriage-road
to the village of Opdal near the Ovne
(or Aune) station, Route 26. Total
distance, Angvik to Ovne, 9J. The
shooting in Sundalen and its neigh
bourhood is fine.
From Angvik the Tingvold Fjord is
crossed to
* Bukken, \. This stage is across
the hills to
Bolseth, f. From hence there
are two ways; the 1st, and which
perhaps is the most preferable for
scenery, is by water to' * Surendalsoren, at the mouth of the Sara Elv,
2 miles, and thence by land to Honstad, 1 . The second and most direct
from Bolseth crosses the
Hals Fjord (another splendid
branch of the Salaup Fjord, and
abounding in magnificent scenery) by
water to
Stanyvik, f. Thence by land to
Aasen, If. Midway on this stage
the road enters Surendal at the vil
lage of Frances, and there joins that
from Surendalsiiren. The salmon and
trout fishing about here and up this
beautiful valley is good.
Honstad, g.
Ivammen, If,
Holten, 1$.
Garberg, 1. About half-way on
this stage a by and nearer road on the
left leads to Trondhjem, and joins our
route again at the Fandrem station.
The stages upon it are from Garberg
to Langseth, 1, Moe (where there
are copper works), 1, and Fandrem, 1.
The OrHa Elv (which affords
tolerable salmon-fishing at times) is
crossed near
+ Kalstad, 1J. From hence a

station-road runs up the valley of the
Orkla, and enters Route 26, near the
Bierkager station, 3J miles dist.
See stations there, p. 246. From
Kalstad the next station towards
Trondhjem is
*+ Gamdal, If. There is a copper
mine near here.
* + Fandrem, 1J. From hence a
station-road leads to the large Island
of Hitteren on the N.W., 74 miles
distant. The shootingto be had there
is highly spoken of. See environs of
Trondhjem. Some steop hills, com
manding extensive and beautiful
views, are passed upon this and the
next stage. From Fandrem the road
turns E. to
* t Bye, 1.
T Saltncesanden, 1B. On this stage
the Gula Elv' is crossed by a ferry ;
the scenery upon this river is very
bold and picturesquethe salmonfishing good ; the best is up the
stream about Rogstad. Saltncesanden
is upon the S. branch of the Trond
hjem Fjord.
Skifstad, f. About midway on
this stage our route joins the Christiania road, Route 26.
Trondhjem (or Drontheim), 1\.
For inns and description of this city,
see Route 26.
Trondhjem to the Namsen and
Fiskam-fos.
Dist. 18| Norsk miles, or 132 Eng.
to Hund at the mouth of the Nam
sen ; 23j, or 166 Eng. to Fiskumfos. A small steamer sometimes
pliesfrom Trondhjem to Levangerand
Steenkjter on the fjord in this route.
Inquiry should be made about this in
Trondhjem. From Trondhjem to
the North Cape, with very few ex'
ceptions, all the stations are good.
The next town upon our route is
Levanger, about 50 English miles.
Leaving Trondhjem on the E. side,
the road continues near the S. E. bank
of the vast Trondhjem Fjord and its
Norway,
route 24.by troxdhjem to the namsen.
branches, though a rich, fertile, and

highly-cultivated district, but much
broken with hills and masses of
rocks. The road very steep in many
places. Numerous little landlocked
bays are passed, which are highly
picturesque. The lateral valleys, each
with its river, are fine, and afford
ample occupation for the angler. The
stages are
* Jlaugan, If.
* Helle, 14, pay for 1J. Here
the Stordals Elv is crossed by a
ferry. Stordal is the largest of the
lateral valleys on this side of the
Trondhjem Fjord. It runs about 60
Eng. m. up the country, and its
beautiful stream abounds in trout.
Salmon are also caught in it.
* Sandfarhuus, \. Travellers go
ing North should order horses here,
those going to Trondhjem at Helle.
It was here that in 1612, during the
war between Christian IV. of Den
mark and Gustavus Adolphus of
Sweden, and after having made an
ineffectual attempt upon Trondhjem,
Colonel MOnnichofen landed with
a portion of the Scotch and Dutch
troops he had raised for the service
of the Swedish king. From hence
he marched up this valley without
opposition, seized upon and per
manently annexed to Sweden the two
provinces Jemtelande and Hergedalen ; and then moving upon Stock
holm, relieved Gustavus Adolphus
from a most critical position, and
enabled him to arrange advantageous
terms of peace with Denmark. The
rest of Colonel Monnichofen's force,
led by Colonel Sinclair, landed in
Romsdalen, and were destroyed by
the peasants in Gudbrandsdalen.
(See Route 26.) From Sandfarhuus
a station-road leads up the valley,
as far as Mceraker Hytte, 4J m.
[The stations are Bjorngaard, \\ ;
Lillefloren, 1| ; Reinaa, 1; Moeraker,
1 ; which is a good-sized village,
with some iron works near the fos.]
From Moeraker a horse-path is con
tinued across the mountains into Swe

den, near to the station at Slad, on
the way to Stockholm, Route 64, and
which saves a very considerable dis
tance, instead of going through Levanger, forthose who have no carriage.
From Sandfarhuus a very hilly
stage leads to
Forbord, 1.
Vordal, 1.
* Hammer, 4.
Hove, 1.
Tynces, 1. Between Hove and
Tynces the town of *Levanger is
passed, but travellers who do not
wish to stop there, do not change
horses before Tynces, \ beyond.
There are very comfortable lodgings
in Levanger. This town is built on
the E. shore of the Vcerdals Fjord, a
branch of the Trondhjem Fjord. In
1846 nearly all the houses were de
stroyed by fire. It is one of the few
towns lying north of the Dovre Fjeld.
"The houses," says Mr. Laing, "are
remarkably good and ' clean ; the
little parlours, the kitchens and
pantries, are like those in an English
maritime town ; but the streets are
unpaved and frightfully dirty ; horses
and carrioles are so general among
the country people, that the comfort of
the pedestrian is little attended to
even in considerable towns, such as
Trondhjem ; while all that relates to
driving, such as bridges, covered
drains, and watercourses, is kept in
excellent repair even on unfrequented
crossroads." The harbour of Levan
ger is the most sheltered of all the
inlets in the eastern coast of the
fjord, and is consequently a great
place of resort for fishing vessels, and
forms * ' a sort of commercial outport
for the trade of Trondhjem. " The
Swedes, too, come across the fjeld in
great numbers when the snow has set
in, and made the transport of heavy
goods practicable in sledges. This
fjord affords, in reality, by far the
readiest communication with the sea
for all the northern parts of Sweden
2U
route 31. christiania to hammerfest. Norway.
as "well as Norway ; in addition to

being quite as near as the gulf of
Bothnia, the fjord is never impeded
by ice, and is consequently navigable
at all seasons. Two large fairs are
held yearly at Levanger, one in De
cember, the other in March ; and so
fully aware are the Norsemen of the
great importance of this situation for
commercial purposes, that several of
the mercantile companies at Trondhjem have establishments here. No
thing could be more interesting than
to witness one of these fairs, held on
the very extreme frontier of the
civilized worldto see the Laplanders
and the natives of Finmark from
their unfrequented mountain homes
come hither to exchange the produce
of the chase for the few luxuries
of civilized life of which they know
the use or the value.
Some distance from Levanger the
road separates ; that to the right
turns off to Stockholm, Route 33,
up the beautiful valley of Vcerdal, and joins Route 64 at the fron
tier ; ours keeps to the N. across
Vcerdal. Its fine stream, the Vara Eh;
is passed by a feiTy. The fishing
in this river is not very good, but
the scenery along its banks is lovely.
The best trout-fishing is to be had
towards the head of Vcerdal. On
this stage the soil becomes very good,
and the country less rugged. Culti
vation extends in all directions up
the country over hill and dale, and
luxuriant crops are produced, includ
ing hops.
Holme, \\. From hence a road
leadÊ. to the village of Stiliestad,
which is celebrated in Norwegian his
tory as being the place where St.
Olaf was slain in battle, 31st Au
gust, 1030. Snorro gives a different
date, which has been proved er
roneous. A cross marks the spot
where Olaf fell, and the Antiquarian
Society have also erected a pillar
there. After being raised to the
throne upon the express pledge that
he would not disturb the people in

their civil rights, or interfere with
their religion, Olaf subsequently at
tempted to force Christianity upon
them. His tyranny and atrocious
conduct tohis subjects at length drove
them into rebellion, and he was com
pelled to quit the country upon its
invasion by Canute the Great, who
was thereupon proclaimed king, a. d.
1028. Aided by forces raised in
Sweden, Olaf subsequently attempted
to recover the throne of Norway, but
was met at this place by the army of
Canute, and, after fighting with great
bravery, was slain, with most of his
kinsmen and followers. Such was
the conduct and fate of the man
whose remains, when canonized, are
stated to have performed all sorts of
miracles, and to whose shrine at
Trondhjem pilgrims nocked for cen
turies from all parts of Europe !
The church at Stiklestad is of
stone, and very ancient. The entrance
gate is a round Saxon arch with
peculiar fillet ornaments similar to
those in the transept of the cathedral
at Trondhjem.
The late king, Bernadotte, visited
this place in 1 835. What must have
been the feelings of this monarch, as
he stood on the very spot on which,
at the same hour of the same day of
the month, (3 p.m. 31 August,-) 805
years before, King Olaf was slain by
his subjects ! Bernadotte stood on the
little eminence surrounded by the
descendants of the very peasants
who fought and vanquished that
prince ; their priest, aged 82, gave
the king his blessing on this very
spot. In human existence there have
been few such incidents. The king
was sensible of it, and, with peculiar
good taste, went first to the mansion
of the old priest previous to visiting
the spot where King Olaf fell.
Laing's Noma)/, p. 386.
Proceeding from Holme the next
stations are
RSske, 1.
Norway.
boute 24.the NAMSEN EJVEB.
*+ Steenkjoer, If. There is some

times a small steamer plying from
here to Trondhjem and back, calling
at Levanger, which the traveller will
do well to inquire about in Trond
hjem. Here the stream from the
noble Snaasen Vand enters the
Trondhjem Fjord, and the salmonfishing is very good.
Immediately on crossing the river a
station-road turns N. E. along the N.
bank of the Vand, and enters the
road upon the Namsen 9 J m. distant,
at the Vie station, some way up the
river, and near the best part for
angling. The stations on this road
areFSling,
; Qvam, 1 ; Ham
mer,
; Vexet, 1 ; Homo, 3.
Towards the end of this stage the
Namsen is crossed by ferry to Vie, 1.
The Snaasen Vand is a beautiful
lake ; it extends nearly 40 Eng. m.
from N.E. to S.W. , emptying its
waters by the Snaasen River into the
Trondhjem Fjord. Few persons
who have read Victor Hugo's ' ' Hans
of Iceland," will be disposed to leave
this interesting lake unvisited.
From Steenkjoer the country be
comes very hilly, with vast forests of
splendid pine trees.
Vikan, 1. Upon this stage the
last portion of Trondhjem Fjord is
passed.
* Elden, 1J.
* Overgaard, 1^. At the end of
this stage a small branch of the
Namsen Fjord is crossed.
* Bangsund, 2.
* Spitlum, 1. Near the next
station the far-famed Namsen Elv is
crossed. This and the Alten in
Lapland are esteemed the two finest
salmon streams in Europe.
Hund, \\. This place is about
If m. from Nam&os, wherethe coast
ing steamers touch (see Route 25,
p. 235), at the mouth of
The Namsen, Xiter.
From Hund to Namsos there are
215
two roads, one on the right bank of

the river all the way, rather hilly.
Another rather longer, but less billy,
which crosses the river below Hund to
the left bank, and recrosses it again
near Namsbs. This is certainly an
easier road, but no advantage in point
of time is gained, owing to the delay
at the two ferries.
From Hund up the river a stationroad runs parallel with the stream to
the N.E. for about a mile, where
the road separates ; that to the N.
continuing to Kongsmoen, at the
head of the Foldin Fjord, upon the
coast. The other continues up the
valley of the Namsen, by Haugan,
1 ; Storem, }, on the left bank ; Vie,
4, on the right bank. It is usual,
though, to drive all the way from
Haugan to Vie without changing at
Storem.
Fosland, X. At Midfaa, a small
stream joins Namsen ; the river now
turns northwards, through a narrow
and picturesque gorge with precipi
tous banks. The road now climbs a
steep shoulder of the hill, obliging
the traveller to follow his carriole on
foot for about an English mile.
Godtland, j. Road bad and
hilly.
Fiskum, \. This is a small vil
lage a short distance from the fos.
Here the station-road ends, but from
hence a horse-track continues up the
rest of the valley, and crossing the
hills, enters that of the Vefsen Elv,
terminating at Vefsen upon the coast.
The scenery upon this route is in
parts very fine, and the falls of the
Namsen and some of its tributaries
highly picturesque. At Fiskum the
height of the fall is about 150 feet,
and the body of water is very great.
A camp of Lapps (Laplanders),
with their herd of reindeer, may
usually be met with on taking a guide
and keeping up the valley of the
Namsen. The Lapps are a despised
race amongst the Norwegians, whose
feeling towards them is very much
file
EOUTE 24.
CHIUSTIANIA TO HAMMEKFEST.
akin to that of the people of the

United States to persons of colour.
Mr. Milford's account of his visit
to a Lapp camp is graphic and inter
esting. In the latter end of August,
1841, he left Ekker, upon the Namsen, in company with a schoolmaster,
whose duty it was to instruct the Lapps
in reading and writing during the
summer months. A Lapp guide also
accompanied them. Some miles be
yond Fiskum-fos there is another
splendid fall of the river, and the
scenery generally is described as ex
ceedingly wild and grand. After 5
days' journey up the valley they ar
rived near the camp they were in
search of.
"In the evening we crossed some
barren mountains ; and our guide
(the Lapp) desired us not to fire at a
pack of ptarmigan which got up close
to us, lest we should disturb the
reindeer, as he said every moment he
expected to find his countrymen. Soon
after, as we were walking in single
file and keeping perfect silence, he
stopped suddenly, and, pointing with
his finger, directed our attention to
some smoke just seen through the
twilight, curling up the side of the
opposite hill. The man's manner
and attitude were quite dramatic,
and we had the satisfaction of feeling
that our object was about to be at
tained. He now tied up his dog, and
ran off, evidently much rejoiced at
the idea of rejoining his wife and
family. He was also anxious to in
form his countrymen who we were,
and what brought us here, as he had
some fear lest they should take alarm,
and move off with their herd. He
soon returned, and at the same time
we saw a large number of reindeer
being driven up the valley to their
quarters for the night, by a man and
a boy, accompanied by a dog, whose
occasional bark seemed to keep them
under perfect control. Upon our
arrival we found the encampment
consisted of two circular tents, built
Norway.
of poles joined together in the centre,

in the form of a cone, with cloth
stretched over them. The door of
the larger one was so low and small
that we had some difficulty in crawl
ing in. The whole scene was highly
picturesque. Each tent was occupied
by a Lapp family ; every member of
which gave us a most kind reception,
and, heartily shaking us by the hand,
at once offered us a share of their tent.
We thankfully accepted their hospi
tality, and soon found ourselves lying
on skins before a large and cheerful
fire. The inmates of the tent com
prised three generations ; namely, a
middle-aged man and his wife, with
four children and an old grandmother.
The tent was made of coarse dark
cloth, and the outside of it was co
vered with turf; around the inside
were hung cheeses, bladders, dried
gut of reindeer, guns, and various
other articles. The chief part of the
smoke escaped through a large open
ing at the top, but enough remained
painfully to affect our eyes, and to
give the copper countenances of the
Lapps a shade as dark as those of
Indians. The second family, who
occupied the smaller tent, consisted
of our late guide, Peter Johansen,
his wife, and two children; they
soon came to pay us a visit. His
wife and daughter had light hair and
fair complexions, and were pleasing
in appearance. His son, a fine in
telligent boy, although under ten
years of age, took his turn with the
men in watching the reindeer during
the night. The little fellow was
dressed in his best clothes, entirely
made of skins, with a girdle round
his waist, and had such a protube
rance in front as to give him the ap
pearance of being stuffed, and greatly
to excite laughter. He wore his knife
in its case behind, and several small
ornaments by his side ; thus forming
a complete Lilliputian Lapp in full
costume.
"We were soon presented with a
Norway.
ROUTE 21.
A LAP.T ENCAMPMENT.
large bowl of reindeer milk, which is

much richer than that of the cow,
and has a delicate aromatic flavour,
resembling the milk of the cocoa-nut ;
but I found I could not take much of
it with impunity, as it was more like
drinking cream than milk. They also
boiled for us a reindeer ham, which
we found so good, that, jipon taking
our departure next morning, we were
glad to add it to our store of pro
visions. It has a wild flavour, and
is quite equal to our park venison.
" The old grandmother was as
shrivelled as a mummy, but the other
two women were by no means illlooking. Their dress was of dark
woollen cloth, with silver ornaments
in front, as well as in the girdle
round the waist, to which sewing im
plements were suspended. These
ornaments were in good taste and
well finished. This smart costume
was put on in compliment to us. The
dress of the men consisted of leather
coats, and tight trousers of the same
Material, with reindeer skin boots.
All the females smoked ; and the old
woman seemed more pleased with
having her pipe filled with tobacco
from England than with anything
else we gave her. Some Lucifer
matches were also highly prized by
them ; and they expressed no small
astonishment at the manner in which
they were ignited. We regretted we
had no fish-hooks, which they in
quired for. The head of the family
(Johan Nielsen) was a grave, sedatelooking man ; decision of character
and intelligence were marked on his
fine countenance. In reply to the
questions I put to him through my
interpreter, he said they were happy
in the enjoyment of their wandering
pastoral life ; that they confined them
selves to the mountainous ridge which
Separates Norway from Sweden ; that
they had been in their present en
campment eight days, and intended
to remain a fortnight longer, when
they would move onwards for a
217
change of pasture for the reindeer.

He told me that in summer they con
duct these animals, which constitute
their wealth, to the elevated parts of
the mountains, and in the winter to
the level country. His herd consisted
of about 300, and it appears that a
family requires nearly that number
for its support. These Lapps, al
though ' dwellers in tents ' all the
year round, are in many respects far
from being uncivilized. They strictly
observe the Sabbath, the best reader
of the family officiating as priest,
and going regularly through the Lu
theran service. Occasionally they
attend the church of the nearest vil
lage on the frontier of Sweden.
" Our companion, the schoolmaster,
is employed by the missionary society,
and twice in the course of every sum
mer visits the Lapps for the purpose
of instructing them. He stays for
three weeks on each occasion, And
divides Ms time between the different
families who are encamped many
miles apart. This man told me that
all the children could read, write,
and say their prayers. The Lapps
have but few wants, and appear per
fectly satisfied ; having no bread,
they subsist almost entirely on the
produce of their herds, with the oc
casional assistance of fish and game.
We saw no other description of food
whatever, neither have they any can
dles; and when we required addi
tional light, one of the women took a
firebrand in her hand and held it up
for us. On one occasion we wanted
to pour some of their delicious milk
into our small keg of finkel ; in an
instant they very ingeniously made a
funnel of some of the birch bark
which hung round the tent. The
sun and stars are their only clock.
They had no spirituous liquors of their
own making, but it is well known that
they are greatly addicted to inebriety,
when they go down into the valleys
of Sweden or Norway. Both Nielsen
and Johansen were great hunters, and
218
kodte 24.CHiusTiANiA to hammkefest.
were frequently absent from the en

campment for many weeks together,
in search of bear, seals, and game.
"It was nearly midnight before
our interesting conference was brought
to a close. At length Nielsen asked
us in a civil, I might almost say in a
polite manner, whether we felt dis
posed to sleep. To this we assented ;
and when all was quiet, I surveyed
with no little interest the scene
around me. Our host lit his pipe,
by way of a soporific, laid down his
head on his hard pillow, and com
fortably puffed himself to sleep. One
of the children coming in late, the
old- grandmother lifted up her large
reindeer covering, and inclosed " the
young herdsman within its ample
folds. It was a fine night, and we
felt no inconvenience either from heat
or cold. We were, however, as
closely packed in the tent as negroes
in a slave ship. I slept soundly not
withstanding.
"We rose at five o'clock, and after
breakfasting on the flesh and milk of
the reindeer, went up the hill to see
the animals themselves. The whole
herd was brought together for our in
spection ; they had sleek skins, and
were in the finest condition ima
ginable, many of their branching
antlers being of immense size, and
covered with the softest velvet. We
were informed that they suffered
more from heat than from cold.
Nielsen's eldest boy, a fine youth of
16, now threw a species of lasso
round the horns of one of the deer,
and the process of milking the herd
"began. They yield a very small
quantity of milk, but this is made
up for by the richness of its quality.
They are remarkably quiet and gentle,
and the Lapps are almost as fond of
them as of their children.
" After purchasing some skins,
horns, and lines which we saw the
women making from strips of the
sinews of the reindeer, by chewing
the ends and twisting one piece on to
Norway.
another till it vvas of sufficient length,

we bade adieu to the Lapps.
' ' Very little is known of the origin
of these honest, simple, and hospi
table people ; they are considered by
some to be descended from aboriginal
Norwegians, but by others they are
supposed to have sprung from a
colony of Finns, although at the pre
sent day they are very unlike that
race. From the earliest times they
have led a nomade life. Their move
ments, however, are chiefly regulated
by the quantity of moss (Cenomyce
rangiferina) in the different localities
essential for their reindeer, and which
is more abundant in Sweden than in
Norway ; but the temperature of the
former country is found to be too
mild for the.se animals, who require
the bracing air and eternal snows of
the latter to preserve their health.
The moss can flourish only amidst
snow, and in a uniformly low tempe
rature; without the moss the rein
deer would perish, and on their herds
entirely depends the prosperity, nay,
the very existence of the Lapps. It
is this animal which supplies them
with clothing, food, the means cf
locomotion, and of obtaining what
ever else their simple habits require.
No other climate will suit these
animals ; the experiment of introduc
ing them into Scotland has invariably
failed.
1 ' The milk of the reindeer is highly
valuable ; its flesh also supplies a nu
tritious food during a great part of
the year ; its sinews are made into
thread and cord ; its horns into
spoons and other domestic utensils,
and its skin furnishes the main por
tion of the Lapp's dress. This ani
mal bears a great resemblance to the
stag, but is rather smaller. The
females are driven home morning
and evening to be milked, and yield
about the same quantity as a shegoat.
' ' The reindeer moss grows almost
everywhere upon these mountains in
Norway.
KOUTE 24.THE KAMSEN IllVEB.
great abundance ; this vegetable,

which after a long continuance of
heat and drought appears withered
and dead, immediately recovers new
life from the rain. Dry and value
less as it looks, it is a most important
gift to this wild region, for it is the
chief support of many thousands of
reindeer on the barren summits of
* the mountains through all the seve
rity of the winter. The deer remove
the snow with their feet to the depth
of 5 or 6 feet to get at this food, and
they cannot thrive nor even live with
out it for any length of time."
Mil/orcCs Norwai/, c. 8.
The general shooting up this grand
valley of the Namsen is good, and it
becomes better as the Swedish fron
tier is approached- The bear, lynx,
and glutton are at times met with,
besides capercailie, wood grouse, and
an abundance of ptarmigan. The
woods and forests are of vast extent,
and contain splendid pine trees ; they
also abound with the yellow molteberry, raspberries, red currants, and
strawberries of delicious flavour.
Salmon-fishing in the Namsen.
Namsen is considered the best salmon
river in Norway. Fish attain an im
mense size, but it is idle for travel
lers to expect permission to fish there.
English gentlemen have been in the
habit of going there regularly for
fishing for the last 12 years, and
all the waters are held as strictly
upon leases, as the rivers of Scot
land, or Ireland. Salmon cannot
get higher up the river than Fiskum
Fos. The fishing begins at Haugan,
but it is very indifferent so low down,
except for a short time quite early in
the season, or after an extraordinary
flood. The three most choice fishing
stations are Fiskum, Godtland, and
Ekker Ferry, comprising in all about
6 to 8 Eng. m. of water, with com
fortable room for 6 rods, 2 at each
station. There are good quarters to
be had at each of these places, and
the charge for food, lodging, and at
219
tendance averages about J a dollar,

2s. 3d. a day. Boats are used for
fishing in this river ; each boat has
two men, who are paid two marks,
about Is. 9d. each, besides which
they expect the salmon not wanted
for the angler's own use, and which
is divided between the 3 stations.
Above the Fos the trout-fishing is
excellent.
The season here varies a little, but
it is comprised in the 3 months of
June, July, and August; the finest
part is usually about the end of June,
to that of July. Four English gentle
men who were here for 2 months in
1841, each killed 1000 lbs. weight
of salmon. Their largest fish weighed
47 lbs. In fact, it appears that at the
proper season the river is so abund
antly stocked with fish, that success
becomes a matter of certainty. Nei
ther is there much science required
here to kill from 100 to 150 lbs. of
salmon, grilse, and trout in a day,
as, fishing from a boat, all the most
likely places can be got at ; and when
a heavy fish is hooked it can easily be
followed up or down the stream. The
Kobbe (seal) is very troublesome in
the Namsen, at times. A glimpse of
a seal clears the river of the fish in
an instant ; they are stupified with
fear, and seek for shelter in the
deepest holes and other hiding-places,
which no fly, be it ever so tempting,
will induce them to leave, until their
much dreaded enemy has disappeared.
Milford's Norway, c. '4.
The Steamer between Trondhjem
and Hammerfest calls at Namsos at
the mouth of the river on her way
both up and down the coast. See
page 235, Route 25.
From the Namsen to Hammerfest,
by Boat.
The following stations are inserted
for the use of travellers by open boats.
The steamers touch at more stations,
and sometimes different to those named.
220
houxk 24.ciiKisTiANiA to hammeefest.
It is presumed that travellers, for any

distance along the coast, will make
use of the steamers : and that the
names of the boat stations given here
will be sufficient for those who make
short excursions, either along the
coast, or to and from the steamer to
any point where they may wish to
land. Printed lists of the stations, at
which the steamers touch, and of the
days and hours, are hung up on board,
and are so easily understood, that it
has been thought useless to tran
scribe them : the more so, because the
times, and even stations themselves,
are liable to change, as the nights
lengthen in the autumn. These
printed lists may be obtained in
Christiania.
The scenery on the first and second
day from Trondhjem is not very strik
ing : the cliffs and rocks are roundtopped, and insignificant. Roches moutonnees, Professor Forbes terms them,
rounded by the action of ice. North
of the Arctic Circle, however, the
cliffs become more peaked, and assume
grander forms. If fortunate enough
to have a fine day in crossing Vest
Fjord, where the steamer stretches
over to the Loffodens, the traveller
will see one of the finest sea views in
the world. On the S.W. there is
the open sea : on the W. and N. the
sharp-pointed peaks of the Loffodens
rise nearly perpendicularly out of the
water : covered, where not too steep,
with snow almost to the water's edge,
till quite late in the summer. Huge,
rugged rocks they are as you approach
them ; their tops like extinct craters,
which have fallen in, now filled with
snow. Laterin the summer, as the snow
melts, numerous miniature waterfalls
pour down over the sides of the cliffs,
and at the bottom patches of green
and a few fishermen's huts begin to
be seen, till at length the steamer
creeps in through a narrow passage to
the fishing station of Balstad. On
the E. of Vest Fjord lofty peaks of
snowy mountains rear their heads far
Jtorway.
away towards the frontiers of Sweden.

I believe there are few views of its
kind to be compared to that from the
middle of Vest Fjord. On leaving
Vest Fjord the steamer winds its way
up Kafte Sund, a lovely channel, to
Steilo in Ulvoen, a pretty little island
almost out on the open ocean. Per
haps one of the most striking features
of the Loffodens are the enormous '
numbers of sea fowl. Gulls and eider
ducks innumerable ; so numerous are
the latter, and so tame, that it is
sometimes necessary for the steamer
to go half-speed in the narrow chan
nels to avoid running over the young
ones. The famous "Maelstrom," of
which English geography books re
late, that whales and other monsters
are sucked into it, till "they will
roar you, an 't were any nightingale,"
is in a narrow passage between two
of the Loffodens. We insert an ac
count of it, taken from Notes and
Queries, of April 3, 1858.
"The dangerous current and sup
posed whirlpool of the Maelstrom lies
at the south end of the Loffoden Isles,
between the islets of Moskenccs and
Vaeroe. Its real perils are produced
by the tremendous current that rushes
in and out of the Great West Fjord
that lies between the Loffodens and
the western coast of Norway. Danger
ous currents are thus occasioned be
tween most of the Loffoden Isles, such
as the Galstriim, the Napstrb'm, and
the Gimstiom ; but the chief current
is directed between Moskenoes and
Vaeroe, constituting the famous Mael
strom. When the wind blows from
certain quarters, and particularly from
the N.W., and meets the returning
tide in the Strait, the whole sea be
tween Moskences and Vaeroe is thrown
into such agitation that no boat could
live in it for a moment. In calm
weather it is only three-quarters of
an hour before the flood tide that the
boatmen venture to cross ; for, with
the stillest and most glassy water out
side, the Maelstrom is dangerously agi
Norway.
ROUTE 24. THE MAELSTROM.
tated, except at the period above men

tioned. The 'set' of the tide through
the Strait is at first towards the
S. E. ; it then, after the flood, turns
from the S. towards the S.W. , and
finally, towards the N.W. ; so in
12 hours the circle of the current
is completed. This is rather a slow
proceeding on the part of a whirl
pool, but the agitation of the cur
rent arises from an immense body
of water being forced by the flowing
tide into the narrow passage between
the isles. In addition to this the depth
decreases most suddenly as the stream
enters the Straits-. Outside, on the
west of the Loffodens, the soundings
show a depth of 100 to 200 fathoms,
while in the Straits, and in the West
Fjord, it suddenly shoals from 16 to
30 fathoms, and the whole weight of
water from the North Sea is suddenly
compressed between the cliffs of Moskences and Vaeroe. As to the stories
of ships being swallowed up in the
vortex, they are simply fables ; but
any ship that became involved in
the current would probaWy be driven
on the sunken rocks and reefs in
the Strait, if it did not founder
from the fury of the waves. The
Maelstrom is quite out of the tract
of the Nordland ' Jaegts ' with their
odoriferous cargo of dried fish, and
no other vessels are called upon to
take this course. Nor are whales
ever sucked down by the greedy whirl
pool, though the following circum
stances may account for this part of
the legend.
' ' On the Island of Flagstadt, which
lies a little to the north of Moskenoes,
there is a narrow inlet called Qualviig
between the rocks opposite to the
farm-house of Sund. This inlet or
passage is at first extremely deep,
and then suddenly shoals to about
16 ft. In this narrow cleft a very
considerable number of whales have
within the memory of man run them
selves ashore. We know not what
attraction draws these generally wary
animals to this narrow creek, but once

in the canal it is impossible for the
whale to retreat, as he requires a large
space to turn his body, and grounding
with the falling tide the huge monster
is left there to struggle with his fate.
Large whales are known to have lived
8 days in this natural trap, and
the people say their bellowings ana
struggles were fearful to behold.
About the beginning of the present
century an enormous male 'fish' was
fast embayed here, and ere the sun
was set he was followed by his mate,
who shared his imprisonment and
death. This happened at the time
that Mr. Sverdrup occupied the farm
of Sund, and from the good luck that
befell him, from 20 whales and more
being stranded here during his occu
pancy, he obtained the surname of
the ' King of the Loffodens. '
"Edwabd Charlton, M.D."
From Namsos at the mouth of the
Namsen to Hammerfest by boat is
88| Norsk m. or 584 Eng. From the
Hund Station to
Vemundirh, 1|, upon the coast ;
and from hence, with the exception
of part of one stage, all the rest of
the' journey to the N. Cape is by
water.
' Seierstad, 1\. From hence the Folden Fjord is crossed to Strand. This
little-frequented tract is inhabited by
myriads of water-fowl, that breed here
undisturbed, and the traveller may
chance to have his meditations dis
turbed by the sudden appearance of a
whale close to his boat. Everest's
Norway, p. 56.
Strand, 2. Up an arm of the fjord
to
Finve, 1J.
* Aarfor, 2.
Foldereid, 1. Here the hills are
crossed to a branch of the Biudals
Fjord, down which the stage con
tinues to
* Teraak, 2. On leaving the Bindais Fjord, towards the end of the
stage, the lofty island of Leko is seen
ROUTE 24.CHBISTIANIA TO HAMMEHFEST.
Nomay.
on the S.W. Our route now lies up This glacier is between Bejern and
Ranen, in the province of Nordland.
the coast to
In several districts of this province
* Steensoen, 3. The mountains upon
the coast now become lofty and pre the rivers flow in subterranean pas
cipitous. Torghatten, a curious rock sages for some distance, and then re
upon the island of Torget, is passed appear ; the two largest of these are
on the left upon this stage. It is up Jardbluelv, in Saltdal, the Prugra, in
wards of 1000 ft. high, and perfo Ranen.
* Lurot'O, 2$. On this stage the
rated in the middle. " It is of granite,
and its form, as seen from the S. , coast continues exceedingly mountain
is not unlike the peaked waterproof ous, with wild-fowl in myriads. Some
hats sometimeswornby sailors, whence miles to the W. are seen the four peaks
in fact its name, ' Toryet's Hat.' " of the islands of Threnen, rising erect
as towers from the water. Immedi
Forbes'' Norway, p. 44.
* SalAuus, 2. The boatmen up this ately on passing them, the line of
The Arctic Circle is crossed, and
coast are most skilful and excellent,
but the squalls from the mountains are near that point a curiously-formed cliff
sudden and dangerous ; and we must is seen, called Hestmands-oen (Horse
again repeat the caution never to allow man's Island) ; it has the appearance
the sheet to be fixed in sailing, but of a huge man on horseback .swimming
always to have it kept in hand. The through the water. The coast is here
love of finkel is the boatmen's great of the wildest description ; precipitous
fault, and in some cases care must be mountains piled upon each other in
taken to prevent their indulging in too every variety of form, with their hun
frequent libations.
dred snow-capped peaks ; "a correct
picture of it would appear to be any
Fomik, 2J.
* Sovik, 2|. This station is upon thing but the representation of sober
the large and highly-cultivated island reality.''
ErtresCs Nonvay, p. 63.
of Tjotfie. In the 11th century it was * SeUSvih, If.
the residence of a celebrated chieftain
* Svhncer, 2.
named Haarek, a contemporary of St.
* Slot, 2J.
Olaf. From hence may be seen the ex
* Nord Arncen, 3J. On this stage
traordinary peaks of mountains called the mouth of the Salten Fjord is
the Seven Sisters ; and also the lofty crossed to
Donna-be. Von ISueh estimates their
* Boii, 2. "Nordland'sBy," the
height at above 4000 ft. At Sovik chief and only town in the province
passengers forVefsenleavethe steamer. of Nordland. The steamers stop here .
Vefsen is one of the best salmon rivers for 6 hours to coal. On the marsh
for its size in Norway, by all accounts. in September and the end of August,
The fishing is rented by an English ryper and snipe may be found. It is
gentleman, who in the summer of 1853 worth while to walk out to the church,
killed a fish of 52 lbs. there.
about 3 Eng. m. E. of the town.
* Sannossoen, 1 \.
There is a curious monumental slab
* Kobherdal, 1\. Passengers for on the S. wall outside, to a former
Eanen land here. The Eanen is a clergyman there, who died in 1660.
fine river, but the accounts of the The spruce fir is not found further
salmon-fishing are rather contradic N. than about the line of the Arctic
tory.
Circle. Scotch fir takes its place in
* Donnms, J. Upon the mainland the forests ; this again does not reach
to the E. of this is the largest glacier much further N. than latitude 70,
in Norway, with the exception of Juste- though there may be some stunted
dalsbra; (near Leirdalsoren, Route 21). specimens further N. Woodcocks
Norway.
EOUTE 24. LOFFODEN ISLANDS.

223
also, and "hjerpe" (the hasel-hen), above each other into the far distance.
will not be found N. of the Arctic Sandhom is one of them, and the
Circle.
highest point in this neighbourhood.
Bodo is a small place, at present The view from its summit is of vast
containing about 300 inhabitants, extent. The long range of the
three or four of whom are merchants ;
Loffoden Islands
it is also the residence of the Amtmand, the Judge, and Sheriff.
is seen 70 or 80 Eng. m. distant, like
It was some years since selected by the jaws of a great shark, so many
the Norwegian Government as the site and so jagged are their points. In the
of a commercial town, on account of foreground the islands, bays, and lakes
its advantageous situation, and especi are'countless. It is in the neighbour
ally of its vicinity to the great fishing hood of the Loffodens that the millions
hanks off Loffoden ; hut, notwithstand of cod are annually caught during the
ing these advantages, it seems to have winter (from the middle of February
remained nearly stationary.
to that of April), and which form the
From Bodo to the head of the Salten staple article of trade in the towns
Fjord is about 6 m., which may be upon the W. coast. It has been cal
done in from 9 hours to 2 days, de culated from official returns that in
pending upon the wind. There is an average year the cod-fisheries off
good accommodation at Saltnces, at these islands were carried on by 2916
the head of the fjord, but dear. The boats, having 121 tenders, and in all
river there is not worth much, as a carrying 15,321 men; the produce
salmon river, and the houses on the being upwards of 16 millions of fish,
banks are dirty. There is little to 21,500 barrels of cod's liver oil, and
see on the fjord, except the Salten 6000 barrels of cod's roe. (Lairtr/'s
strom, a whirlpool in narrow pas Norway, c. 6. ) " The fishery is ex
sage of the fjord, like the Maelstrom clusively carried on in open boats.
in miniature, but, though smaller, The fishermen hang up the larger por
more dangerous. The best place to tion of the fish, which is dried and
sleep on the fjord, if a contrary wind ready for shipment by about midsum
entails a passage of 2 days, is at mer ; this is stock-fish. A consider
Skierstad. The only object in going able quantity is, however, sold fresh
up the Salten Fjord is to visit an en to traders (citizens) of Tromsoe, Trondcampment of Lapps, some of whom hjem, Christiansand, Molde, and Ber
may generally be seen with their rein gen, who enjoy, in common with the
deer on the fjeld, within 2 m. of Salt- privileged merchants of the district,
noes, (but Lapps may be seen far better the right of trading during the fishing
from Tromsoe), or to ascend the season ; this they salt down in their
Sulitjelma mountains on the frontier vessels, and afterwards convey to par
of Sweden, the highest peak of which ticular places along the neighbouring
is about 6000 N. ft. above -the sea. coast, where the climate is less humid
They are the highest hills N. of Trond- than in the Loffodens, and also where
hjem, but otherwise there is no object there is facility for drying it on the
in visiting them. There are magnifi flat rocks, ' Klipper. ' This is known
cent views seaward from the Blaamand in commerce as Klip-fish, and differs
Fjeld above Saltnces.
little from the ' Bacalao' of Newfound
The scenery around Bodo is of the land. The trade of Loffoden was for
wildest kind. About H m. S.E. is merly confined to the privileged mer
Biirfjeld, with its picturesque peaks, chants of Trondhjem and Bergen ;
snowy ravines, and black precipices, but, according to the last trading law
while to the S. W. the mountains tower (Handel's Lov), passed about 20 years
224
EOUTE 21. CKBISilANIA TO HAMMERFKST.
since, any man may sell articles of

necessity, but I do not think be could
buy more fish than for his own con
sumption. The restrictions on trade
are still considerable ; they are rem
nants of the tyrannical system esta
blished by the Ilanse towns when they
had the absolute control of these fishe
ries. No one, for example, can set
up as shopkeeper, though called mer
chant, in a town, unless he can pass
an examination in book-keeping by
double entry, and in a foreign lan
guage ! Had such a law existed in
England, it is doubtful whether the
late N. M. Rothschild could have
established himself in London. The
trade of the whole of the northern
coast is almost entirely one of barter ;
the merchants being constantly under
advance to the fishermen, who are
thus bound to deliver their catch
to their creditors ; but they continu
ally try to evade (and are by no
means scrupulous as to the means)
what appears to them a species of
tyranny, although the thraldom is
often voluntary. It is a detestable
system with a double curse, for the
merchants rarely thrive under it.
Where it still lingers in the old de
pendencies of Norway, the Orkneys,
and Shetlands, we see its effects in
the appeal of these islanders every
few years to the benevolence of the
English public. Where no money
passes there is no inducement to save
very few will hoard perishable ar
ticles, such as meal, grits, &c. , be
yond their consumption for twelve
months."W. There is a beautiful
theory as regards the 1 cod-fishery,
which may be of enormous advantase
to Ireland. The prey of the cod is
said to bo most abundant upon par
ticular strata, which are supposed to
extend from the Loffodens, by the N.
coast of Ireland, right across the At
lantic, to Newfoundland. If this be
so, it is believed that wherever the
depth of water is not too great, cod
may at the proper season be caught
Norway.
as abundantly off the coast of Ireland

as at the Loffodens or Newfoundland.
Fresh herring is the most tempting
bait for cod.
* Kierringo, 3.
* Helrues, 24.
* LScS, 2. From hence there are
stations to some of the Loffoden
Islands, across the Vest Fjord, 3 m.
dist.
Filke, 3. Upon this stage the
fjord gradually narrows, the Loffo
dens being close upon the W. ; and
the scenery is wild and desolate in the
extreme.
Bceroen, 3. From hence our
route winds through channels between
the islands and the mainland all the
way to Tromsoe, the mountains at
times most grand and picturesque in
form. Shortly before the end of this
stage the district of Finmarken is
entered.
* Sandlorvholm, 24. Upon this
stage Trondences is passed. Its
church is considered to be the
handsomest to. the N. of Trondhjem,
and one of the oldest in Norway ; it
was the chapel of a monastery
formerly situated here, of which it
is now the only remains existing.
There is a Normal school es
tablished here, supported by the
State, for the education of parish
schoolmasters.
.* Hamtih, 3.
* Dypvik, 2J.
Sor jiussevaag, lif.
* Gibostad, 14, on the island of
Senjen. This island, according to a
certain Danish Count, who frequently
comes here, has the reputation of
abounding in bears. Between Gi
bostad and Tromsoe the Malangen
Fjord is crossed ; the Hons River
flows into the head of this fjord.
The salmon-fishing, it is said, is
pretty good in it, but like most
other Norwegian rivers, it is rented
by Englishmen. Professor Munch is
inclined to place the northern limit
of the early colonization by the
Xorway.
koute 24.-TROMSOE.
Northmen at this point for various

reasons. Supposing, according to his
view, the stream of colonization to
have come N. of the Gulf of Bothnia,
either round the coast in ships from
Archangel, or liy forcing a path over
the mountains (and there is a pass
leading out to this very fjord from
Tornea, and Russian Finland), he
imagines this to have been the first
inviting-looking spot, which might
have tempted the early colonists to
land, and settle. The nam^s of
places along the coast S. of this
fjord undoubtedly bear a Scandi
navian form, while to the N. of it
they are no less remarkably Finnish.
For his various reasons for supposing
colonization to have taken place by
way of the N. see his ' ' Norske
Folk's Historie," voL i. book I.
caps. 11, 13.
* Tromsos, 3J. Ludwigsens Hotel ;
very fair accommodation. This town
is of comparatively recent date. It
is one of those established on this
coast, after the Danish Octroi system
had received its death-blow, and
now owes its prosperity to the ex
tensive fisheries along the coast, and
the brisk foreign trade which this
lucrative branch "of industry has
created. The town is pleasingly
situated on the eastern side of the
island, in the centre of the fjord,
from which it takes its name. It is
the residence of the bishop, Stift
Amtmand, and several subordinate
authorities, and contains about 1500
inhabitants, being nearly double what
the population was 20 years since.
The town and district return one
member to the Storthing.
There are generally some Russian
vessels here from Archangel and the
coasts of the White Sea. They bring
corn, which they exchange for dried
fish. The crews of these vessels are
fine, brawny, picturesque-looking fel
lows. The vice of drunkenness pre
vails to a fearful extent amongst the
lower classes in this place. From
iib
Tromsb'e there are fine views of the

mountainous Island of Kvalo on the
W. And from Tromsiie the liensjord
and its terrific glacier may be visited.
The steamer usually stops a day here.
The Ptarmigan-shooting upon the
neighbouring mainland and islands is
excellent.
They have a curious custom here,
and indeed in other parts of Norway,
of lighting huge fires, and letting off'
fireworks on the eve of St. Hans day
(Midsummer Day). Seen from the
hill above the town they have an
exceedingly good effect, though there
be a bright sun shining at the time.
There is a similar custom of lighting
bonfires on Midsummer Day in the
West of Cornwall. The view at 10
or 1 1 o'clock at night from the hill
aliove Tromsoe, if it be fine and
clear, is worth walking up to see.
A Lapp encampment is generally
to be seen in Tromsdal on the E. side
of the fjord. It is more easily reached
than the encampment in the valley of
Namsen, or on the Salten Fjord. It is
a sight worth seeing. The horns of
the reindeer grow to an enormous
size, reaching as high as a man's
shoulder, when the deer are lying
down. Some of the herd are so
tame that they will allow you to step
over them, and stand by them, as if
they were cows, in the place of which
indeed they stand to the Lapp.
On leaving Tromsoe our route con
tinues between the islands and main
land by
* Finhrokeii, 2, pay for 2. This
stage is down the Ulfs Fjord, be*
tween which and the Lyngen Fjord
there is a gigantic chain of moun
tains.
It is said that the Russians are very
desirous to obtain possession of Lyngen
Fjord, by fair or foul means, for a har
bour on the Northern Ocean, which is
never frozen. Only 3 or 4 Norsk miles,
say 25 English, intervene at present
between the westernmost boundary of
Russian Finland and the head of this
L 3
226
route 21. cnmsTiAxiA to hammerfest.
fjord ; and there is no doubt that

the Russians are very desirous to
make this last stride to the open Bea.
In 1853 they endeavoured to pick a
quarrel with Norway by giving orders
that all Norwegian reindeer, which
crossed the frontier, were to be shot ;
at the same time forbidding their
own Lapp subjects to enter Norway.
There were some able letters on this
subject in the Morning Chronicle in
the autumn of 1854.
Near the mouth of the Lyngen
Fjord, and close to the steamer's
course, two glaciers are to be seen,
coming close down to the water's
edge. There is one in Kvsenangen
Fjord N. E. of Lyngen, which is
actually washed by the sea.
Forbafs Norway, p. 78.
* Karho, 2, pay for 21.
* Skjei'vG, 3, pay for 4}. About
8 m. S. of this station the Reisen
Elv enters the fjord. It is a large
stream, and little known at present ;
it was tried once, and did not turn
out very well. There is a good deal
of water from a glacier in the river.
Those who are desirous of visiting
The Alten Rker,
and who do not proceed there by the
steamer, should take boat from
Skjervo to Alteidet, 3, from there
cross the isthmus to Sopnces (about | )
on Lang Fjord, and thence again by
boat up the Alten Fjord to Talvik,
3 m., and Alten (near the mouth of
the river), 1 m., .in all, 8f. The
Steamers to and from Hammerfest
call at
Bosckoi) (where there is a good
Inn), in the Alten Fjord, and only 1
m. by land from Alten. A fair is
held here in the latter end of No
vember, and in March, which is
largely attended by Finns and Lapps
from the mountains, as well as by
Swedes. The Alten is navigable for
about 4 m. from its mouth. A
horse-path runs a long way up the
valley of this stream, and across the
Norway.
mountains, over a strip of the

Russian territory, into Sweden. See
Route 34.
Altengaard, near the mouth of the
river, was formerly the residence of
the Amtmand ; it is now the head
quarters of a Roman Catholic mission,
which has been established about 3
years, hitherto without making many
converts.
Alten is the most extensive and
productive valley in the north, and
is in every respect, both as to climate
and style of scenery, different to the
districts which the traveller has been
passing through ; here vegetation
appears to flourish ; the fir, the
birch, the willow, and mountain ash
are abundant ; even corn-fields and
cultivated meadows are seen ; and
after the wild and desolate scenery,
among which the earlier part of the
voyage has been made, this change is
a relief both to the mind and the
eye.
In several parts of the Alten
valley, the traveller will meet with
as soft and pleasing scenery as any
Alpine country can present ; indeed
the impression on the first view is
that of an oasis, formed by nature as
a resting-place in the midst of ruggedness and desolation.
In a lateral valley, on the S. side
of the Alten Fjord, lie the Alten
Copper Works, belonging to an Eng
lish company, the establishment of
which has contributed greatly to the
prosperity of the district. The
gentlemen who are resident there are
most obliging in giving information
as to the best parts of the river, the
proper boat to be taken, provi
sions, &c, as there are no stationhonses.
There are some remarkable marine
terraces, or ancient sea beaches near
Alten, and indeed on other parts of
the coast of Finmark. Those near
Alten are remarkable, in that they
are not continuous at the same exact
level above the sea, but incline in
Norway.
ROUTE 24.THE ALIEN KIVER.J
such a way as to show that the coast

has not only been raised bodily out
of the water, but in an unequal
manner, the part towards Haminerfest having emerged less than the
part towards Bosekop. The highest
is 240 Eng. feet above the sea.
Forbes's Norway, pp. 84-90.
As a salmon stream, some anglers
consider the Alten superior to the
Namsen.* It is now quite as well
known, and as regularly fished as
Namsen. Mosquitoes swarm here at
times. A tribe of Finlanders or
Kvieus (Kvmner in Norwegian) are
settled at Alten ; many of the boat
men on the river speak nothing but
Kvcenish. They are admirable boat
men, but they are not famous for
the love of truth and honesty, which
generally distinguishes the Norwegian
peasants.
The general shooting up the valley
of the Alten is good (see lloute 34),
and the numerous falls of the river
and its tributaries are highly pic
turesque.
The Tana Eh is a splendid stream,
and its tributaries large and nume
rous. It rises in the mountains S. E.
of the Alten, and for a long distance
is the boundary between Eussia and
Norway. It falls into the Tana
Fjord about 80 Eng. m. to the E.
of the North Cape. The Tana and
its tributaries have been explored by
4 or 5 parties of fishermen in the
last few years. Undoubtedly there
are large fish there, and a great extent
of fishing water, it being 20 Norsk
m. from Karasjok to Tana mouthSalmon ascend above Karasjok. A
great part of the river, however,
consists of broad shallow lakes, one
may almost call them, where there is
* "I have had a great many salmon
opened in my presencethrjse caught in the
Alten Fjord, before they reached the river,
were full of young herrings or smelts (the
Salrno Arclicus, I believe); but I never
could discover anything in those caught
after they had been 24 hours in the river."
227
no chance of killing a fish,so that
the actual extent of water to be fished
is considerably reduced. Mosquitoes
swarm, and there is no escape from
them, except within a tent. There
are no houses on the bank, so that
all necessaries have to be carried.
It would seem from the same party
never going there a second time, that
the fishing did not compensate for
the discomfort to be endured. See
introduction under head 9. There
are two modes of arriving at Tana ;
one from Alten across the mountains
to Karasjok, where boats may be
obtained to descend the river ; the
other is by leaviug the Hammerfest
and Vadso steamer in the Tana Fjord,
and ascending the river, as far as
may be thought fit. By the former
route, horses, provisions, and a guide
must be taken from Alten : it will
require about 3 days to do the 16
m. between Alten and Karasjok.
Some wretched mountain huts exist,
where it is possible to sleep on the
way. Some little distance up the
Alten a horse-track diverges across
the mountains to the E. for 3 or 4 m.,
and then enters the valley of one
of the tributaries of the Tana, and
keeps along that valley till its junc
tion with the river, about 8 m. The
road then continues (with the excep
tion of a small interval) all the way
down the .valley of the Tana to its
junction with the fjord, about 80
Eng. m., and never leaves the
Norwegian territory. Care must be
taken not to enter the Russian terri
tory without having a passport
properly rise for Russia, or the con
sequences may prove unpleasant.
From the mouth of the Tana there are
water stations to the North Cape, viz.
from tiuldholmen to Hopseidet, 5 m.;
there cross a small isthmus, and on
by water to Svrerholt, 5 ; and Kjelvik, at the North Cape, 3 ; in all,
13 m.
The direct lloute to the North
Cape continued from Skjervii. Large
2-28
ROUTE 24.
shoals f a fish called Sey (coal-fish)

are seen off this part of the coast;
much used by the inhabitants for
food. From Skjervii a fine glacier is
visible on Kaagb'e. The atmospheric
effects about here in winter are
sublime. The sun is lost early in
November, when his rays, for a short
time, alone illumine the tops of the
mountains. They are of the most
lovely rose colour, while clouds and
vapour render all beneath and around
them dark, mysterious, and indis
tinct.
* Loppen, 2J, pay for 3. This
small island lies open to the whole
force of the Atlantic. Whales are
frequently seen about here. From
hence the SSrS Sund is entered to
* Hammerfest, 7, pay for 8J.
This is celebrated as being the most
northern town in the world, and also
for its lively trade, being the resort
of English, Russian, Dutch, Swedish,
Danish and German traders, but
particularly Russian, who swarm on
the coast during the three summer
months : although situated in so
high a northern latitude, 70 49', the
temperature, even in winter, is so
mild, that the waters along the coast
and at the bottom of the deepest
fjords never freeze ; the inhabitants
are consequently enabled to carry on
the sea-fishing in boats during the
whole winter.
The Spitsbergen -trade is likewise a
most important branch here. Small
sloops of 30 or 40 tons are fitted out
for it from hence, and carry 6 or 8
hands. They leave here in May,
and wait at the edge of the ice till
it is sufficiently thawed to enable
them to near the land. Reindeer,
walrus, white bears, and eider-down
are the objects sought for. This
trade has given to Hammerfest a
more enterprising set of seamen than
any other port in Norway. Their
boldness and dexterity in destroying
the white bear with lances is ex
treme. These beasts are not much
HAMMERFEST.
Norway,
dreaded in summer, but when pressed

by hunger in the winter they become
very daring in their attacks. A
story is told of two Russians who
were playing at draughts by the
window of their hut, when a great
white paw, pushed through the pane,
seized one of them by the neck, and
attempted to drag him out. He
escaped, with the loss of a pawful of
his hair.
Numbers of Lapps may be seen
here and upon the neighbouring
coast. Like their neighbours, the
Kvoens, they are sadly addicted to
drunkenness at times. With this
exception the total absence of anxiety
of mind among them, their few and
simple wants, and the high state of
health and spirits engendered by
their hardy habits, make them
creatures rather deserving of envy
than pity. The Lapp will go for 30
Eng. m. through swamp and over
rock, take his draught of milk, lie
down in his wet clothes, and awake
the next morning as fresh as when
he began his journey.
Hammerfest is on the island of
Kvalo'e. The island was once well
wooded, but there are now hardly
any trees left, having been cut down
for firewood, and no young ones
having taken their place. Much
drift wood is brought by the Gulf
stream here. "Think of Arctic
fishers burning upon their hearths
the palms of Hayti, the mahogany of
Honduras, and the precious woods of
the Amazon and Orinoco. " Bayard
Taylor's Northern Travel, p. 264.
Seyland may be visited from
Hammerfest. The summit of the
mountain is 3408 ft., and com
mands very extensive and grand
views. The most northern glacier
in Norway is upon it.
The Russian Government takes
great pains to foster its trade with
the northern provinces of Norway,
which are mainly supplied with corn
from that country. Mr. Laing. in
Norway.
P.OVJTE 24. THE SOETH CAPE
his book on Norway, c. 6, (which

deserves attentive perusal,) fully and
ahly exposes the supposed views and
objects of Russia as regards the N. of
Norway.
The Aurora Borealis.Mr. Eve
rest, in his book on Norway, p. 129,
thus describes it as seen by bright
moonlight in this neighbourhood in
the middle of September : "Across
the sky, to the north, stretched a
white arch of light, with a span as
broad as a rainbow, and rather natter.
A large streak, shaped like a comet,
lay within the arch, and this was
continually changing both its figure
and position. Sun, moon, or stars
never yet gave so lovely, so hallowed
a light." But it is much finer in the
middle of November, when it assumes
a great variety of forms ; at times
appearing like a rain of fire a great
fan displaying all the colours of the
rainbowor a hurried indistinct mo
tion of shapes of light which might
be compared to a mysterious dance of
spirits.
The Steamer usually remains here
two days prior to her return S. This
sometimes gives sufficient time to visit
the North Cape and return, so as to
catch the boat before her return S. The
best chance of doing this is to take
the lightest boat and 4 men. It
is not a good plan (except for eco
nomy) for a party to join in taking
the same boat. Where there are two
or more boats, a little emulation is
created between the crews, and there
is a better chance of a quick passage,
as the Norsemen are not given to
hurry themselves. It is better, how
ever, to go by the Hammerfest
and Vadso steamer as far as Havosund, or Kjelvik, and landing there
proceed by boat to the North Cape.
After visiting it you can either wait
for the same steamer on her return,
or hire boats at each station, and re
turn to Hammerfest, a distance of 11
m. from Kjelvik ; 5j from Havcisund.
Ladies should not attempt the
Q29
journey by boats to the North Cape,

as they are not only liable to be ex
posed to considerable hardships, but
may be unable to quit the boat for
20 or 24 hours.
Hammerfest to the North Cape.
Dist. 13 Norsk m., or 91 Eng. A
stock of provisions, with some brandy
for the men, a cask of water, and
plenty of wraps to keep out rain and
sea, are essential. A glass or two of
brandy to the men upon occasions
facilitates the passage : a bargain
should be made with them before
starting, particularly if they are hired
for the whole distance. The scenery
beyond Hammerfest does not repay
the expense and fatigue of the voyage.
The grand mountains dwindle into in
significance, and all becomes dreary,
barren, and of a uniform dull brown.
The stations are
* Ilarosund, 5^. From hence the
most direct way to the Cape (should
the wind serve) is to make for the
bottom of the Tue Fjord, upon the
Island of Mageib'en. Thence walk
over to the Fits Fjord, and there
take boat again, and cross the West
Fjord, landing at Homvigen, a small
bight on the North Cape itself. The
regular station route from Havdsund
is to
Kjehilc, H, pay for 5\. This sta
tion is upon the Island of Mayeruc,
and a guide can be obtained for those
who like to walk to the Cape, about
20 Eng. m. dist. ; or a boat can be
taken round the island to Hornvigen,
from whence
The North Cape
may be ascended. The way up is
steepthe highest point 935 ft.
above the sea. There is no particular
wildness of sceneryaround upon the
island is nothing but a bare moor,
and the sea is not more stormy or
violent than upon other parts of the
coast. No trees grow upon this island
230
EOUTE 24.CHRISTIANIA TO HAMMEKFEST.
of Mageri5e, but the sea throws ashore

an abundance of drift wood, which
supplies the inhabitants with fuel.
For food their chief dependence is
upon fish and wild fowl, which abound.
The tiyr Falcon (so much prized for
falconry) and plenty of eagles may be
seen here.
The song in the older Edda, called
Valas Spaadom, gives the eagle his
proper place in the scenery of the
country. After foretelling the de
struction of the earth, the prophetess
sees it come up again ' ' glorious
green. The waterfalls precipitate,
but the eagle flies over it, seeking for
fish." This is a study from nature,
as it still remains.
There are few finer accounts of the
North Cape, and of the Midnight Sun,
than Mr. Carlyle's. He describes
"Teufelsdroskh" emerging (we know
not whence) in the solitude of the
North Cape, on that June midnight,
standing there, on the world promon
tory, looking over the infinite Brine.
"Silence, as of death," writes he ;
' ' for midnight, even in the Arctic lati
tudes, has its character ; nothing but
the granite clifls, ruddy-tinged, the
peaceable gurgle of that slow-heaving
Polar Ocean, over which in the ut
most North the great sun hangs low,
and lazy, as if he too were slumber
ing. Yet is his cloud couch wrought
of crimson, and cloth of gold : yet
does his light stream over the mirror
of waters, like a tremulous fire-pillar,
shooting downwards to the abyss, and
hide itself under my feet. In such
moments solitude also is invaluable ;
for who would speak, or be looked
upon, when behind him lies all Eu
rope and Africa fast asleep, except
the watchmen ; and before him the
silent Immensity, and palace of the
Eternal, whereof our sun is but a
porch lamp."Sartor Resartus, p.
109.
The following is the description of
the North Cape, also at midnight, by
Mr. Bayard Taylor:"It was now
NoriCCty.
11 o'clock, and Svcerholt glowed in

fiery bronze lustre, as we rounded it.
The eddies of returning birds gleam
ing golden in the nocturnal sun, like
drifts of beech leaves in the October
air. Far to the N. the sun lay in
a bed of saffron light, over the clear
horizon of the Arctic Ocean. A few
bars of dazzling orange cloud floated
above him, and still higher in the sky,
where the saffron melted through
delicate rose colour into blue, hung
like wreaths of vapour, touched with
pearly, opaline flushes of pink and
golden gray. The sea was a web of
pale slate colour, shot through with
threads of orange and saffron, from
the dance of a myriad shifting and
twinkling ripples. The air was filled
with the soft, mysterious glow, and
even the very azure of the southern
sky seemed to shine through a net of
golden gauze. The headlands of this
deeply-indented coastthe capes of
the Laxe and Porsanger Fjords, and
of Mageroe, lay around us, in different
degrees of distance, but all with
foreheads touched with supernatural
glory. Far to the N.E. was Nordkyn, the most northern point of
the mainland of Europe, gleaming
rosily and faint in the full beams of
the sun, and just as our watches de
noted midnight the N. appeared to
the westwarda long line of purple
bluff presenting a vertical front of
900 ft. in height to the Polar Ocean.
Midway between these two magnifi
cent headlands stood the midnight
sun, shining on us with subdued fires,
and with the gorgeous colouring of an
hour, for which we have no name,
since it is neither sunrise, nor sunset,
but the blended loveliness of both
but shining at the same moment, in
the heat and splendour of noonday,
on the Pacific Isles. " Northern
Travel, pp. 267, 268.
Those who expect to find nothing
better than Lapps and their huts in
this wild district of Finmarken, will
be surprised to hear that a party of
Norway,
route 95. round the coast by steamers.
231
English and American gentlemen, who now be performed by means of com

missed the steamer from Hammerfest, fortable steamboats, visiting almost
and were detained till she made her every town in the country.
Printed lists of the times of de
next voyage, passed their time most
agreeably amongst the kind and hos parture and arrival of the Steamers at
pitable families. At a dinner party all their places of call upon this route
at one of the houses, they sat down may be obtained at the steam-boat
24 in number, which was followed by office on the quay at Christiania, on
a ball, kept up till 4 in the morning. board the steamers, and at the hotels.
From Hammerfest another steamer Particular care should be taken to as
leaves for Vadso soon after the arrival certain at the steani-boat office whether
of the steamer from the S. , touching any and what alterations will lie made,
at Havosuad, Kjelvik for the North which may disarrange plans formed
Cape, Repvaag, Yardohuus, and for meeting the steamers at any par
other places, arriving at Vadso on ticular times and places.
The whole voyage from Christiania,
the third day from Hammerfest. She
returns in time to catch the steamer along the coast up to the North Cape,
going southwards of the succeeding may now be accomplished in 14 days.
week. Vardohuus is a little fort, The steamers call at all the towns and
built by King Christian IV. of Den settlements upon the coast ; and at
mark, more than 200 years ago, as a the towns usually stay long enough to
protection for her fisheries, and to see all the objects of interest they
guard against Russian encroachments contain.
These steamers belong to Govern
in the Varanger Fjord. Vadso is a
wretched little place of about 800 in ment, have strong crews, and are com
habitants, with a summer of 6 weeks manded by officers in the Royal Nor
and a winter of 10 months. Potatoes wegian Navy, gentlemen who would
can sometimes be grown there. From do honour to any service. The cap
Vadso, fishermen wishing to try the tain and first officer on board all the
Neiden, or the Pasvig, must cross the Norwegian steamers speak English.
The fares of these vessels are very
Varanger Fjord to its southern shore
in boats. East of Pasvig, in about reasonable; see p. 107. A place in
the
Chief Cabin from Christiania to
longitude 48 30' E. (from Feroe),
is the Russian frontier, and near here Hammerfest costs but 35 sps., or
the sea in winter is frozen : and the 71. 17*. 67/., and in the Fore Cabin
Gulf Stream, which has brought 22 sps., or 41. 19s. Food and wines
warmth from the tropics to soften the are cheap and good ; they are paid
rigour of the Norwegian climate for extra, and may be calculated at
throughout the whole length of the about 6 marcs, or 5s. Grf. per diem.
country, at length loses its force, This includes 4 meals and a pint of
and its track is lost in the Polar good French wine. -The beds are clean
and comfortable. Fees expected by
Ocean.
the stewards and stewardesses, small,
and at discretion : and it is usual to
ROUTE 25.
give something to the crew.
The scenery upon the land routes
CHRISTIANIA BY STEAMBOAT ROUND across
the mountains between Christi
THE COAST TO TRONDHJEM, HAM ania and
Bergen, and Christiania and
MERFEST, AND VADSO IN EAST FIN- Trondhjem,
is so wondrously fine, that
MARK.
the voyage all round the coast by this
The whole of this Route, compris route is not recommended, except to
ing near 2000 miles of coast, can those persons who from -ill health or
232
ROUTE 25 CHU1STIAXIA TO EAST FINMABK. Nonva>j.
disinclination may wish to avoid the the N. they are much grander in
fatigue ami little discomforts in the height and- outline.
way of roughing it, which must be
Some of the best scenery in Norway
put up with in crossing the country.
lies in the upper parts of the HardThe great advantage of these steam anger Fjord, the Sogne Fjord, and the
ers to the tourist is, that they enable Stor Fjord, which may be conveniently
him cheaply and rapidly to move from explored from the towns of Stavanger,
place to place upon the W. coast, Bergen, Aalesund, and Molde. Upon
landing where he pleases for fishing, some of the large islands upon the
shooting, or exploring the most in W. coast there are red deer, and
teresting scenery ; for description of occasionally bears are met with.
For particulars as to the fishing and
which see Route 24.
For ladies and invalids this coast shooting to be had upon the fjords and
route offers the greatest advantages, near the coast, see Route 24. N. 6f
as it enables them to visit some of the Trondhjem, between the Namsen and
grandest scenery in Norway, without Hammerfest, excellent ptarmiganthe fatigue of travelling much by land, shdoting is to be had near all the
or being but rarely, if at all, exposed places at which the steamers call.
Two days N. of Trondhjem the
to sea-sickness, as the steamers after
leaving the town of Stavanger run Arctic Circle is crossed, and, about
almost the whole way between a belt Midsummer, the long and solemn
of rocks and islands, and the main twilight of the S. of Scandinavia
land. This belt acts as a vast break is replaced by perpetual daylight
water, within which the sea is quite during all the 24 hours.
smooth, let it be ever so rough outside.
One day N. of Trondhjem is the
All the advantages of a sea-voyage are Namsen, and a little to S. of Ham
therefore obtained with few of its merfest the Alten. These two are
considered the finest salmon streams
discomforts.
The society on board is of the in Norway.
If it be intended to explore any of
upper classes of the Norwegians, and
their kindly feeling towards each the scenery of the fjords or inland,
other, as well as to foreigners (and then the preliminary information in
especially English and Americans), is Route 24, as to requisites for the
very great, and adds much to the journey, should be attended to before
leaving Christiania. That Route also
pleasure of the voyage.
In coming S., passengers can, describes most of the towns upon the
instead of going up to Christiania, coast.
The steamer leaves Christiania
meet the steamer for Kiel at the
mouth of the Christiania. Fjord. See every Thursday morning ' at 10
o'clock, commencing on the 1st of
Route 20.
The sunset effects upon the W. April, and continuing through the
coast are sublime. The scenery of the summer every consecutive Thursday.
wildest description, and at times most
Since the weekly steam contmnnicagrand and picturesque, but this is the tion has been established with Hull,
exception and not the rule, till West this, in a commercial point of view,
of Christiansand. The islands and is of great importance, as it enables
hills upon this iron-bound coast are the man of business to command his
in some parts quite barren, in others time, and to reach any particular
covered with firs and lovely little locality he may desire, without the
patches of verdure in the valley. But necessity of performing a long and
they are usually too low and rounded tedious land journey.
Any one, however, desirous of
in the S. to be picturesque. In
Naivety,
route 25.hound the coast by steamers.
reaching Alten or Hammerfest within

the shortest period will neither select
the coast journey by land or voyage by
steamer, but proceed across the Dovre
Fjeld, through Gudbrandsdalen to
Trondhjem, or through Osterdalen.
See Routes Nos. 20 and 31. Where
time, however, is not so great an ob
ject, the coast voyage is very inte
resting. There is smooth water nearly
the whole of the way ; the steamer
winding her way through the intricate
channels formed by the myriads of
islands that shelter the coast. The
greatest attractions upon this route
for fishing and shooting may be said
to commence about Christiansand ;
the grandest scenery, however, is met
with between Bergen and Christiansand, and in the Loffodens.
Steamer leaving Christiania on
Thursday, at 10, arrives at
Drubak, at 12, noon.
Ilorten, at 2 p.m. This town, a
few years back, was nothing more
than an inconsiderable village ; it has
now assumed the character of a town,
and has become of importance as the
chief naval station and marine esta
blishment ; a very respectable dock
yard has been built as well as arse
nals and depots for naval stores.
Moss, at 3 p.m.
Vallo, 44 p.m. Here the Copen
hagen steamer is met, and the post
for the westward taken on board.
Laurvig, 74 p.m.
Frederiimern, 8 p.m. to Langesund, where the steamer lies until 6
o'clock on Friday morning.
In Laurvig there are two respect
able hotels. The town is charmingly
situated at the head of a small fjord
facing the S.E., and is built in the
form of a crescent. The church is a
picturesque building, and the view of
it and the town from the sea is very
pretty. The River Lauven falls into
the fjord, near^to the town on the
S.E., and is the best salmon stream
in the south of Norway. The fish
are large and abundant, and can get a
233
long way up the river. There is a

direct route to Kongsljerg from
this place, 04 m. ; the road keeping
along the valley of the Lauven
nearly the whole way, presents a
variety of picturesque scenery and
charming subjects for the pencil. fSee
Route 23.
Laurvig carries on a considerable
trade with Great Britain, and owns
a number of vessels : the last official
returns show that 20,029 tons of
shipping left the port, and 37,930
tons arrived. The Fritzo Iron Works
are situated near Laurvig ; it is one
of the largest and most perfect esta
blishments of the kind in the
country.
In this neighbourhood, a wateringplace, called Sandefjord has, within
these few years, sprung up, and is
now, in consequence of the medicinal
virtues of the waters, much fre
quented, not only by invalids from
the capital, but the neighbouring
towns and interiors of the country, as
well as from Sweden and Denmark.
The baths are open from the 1st of
June to the 31st August. Gouty and
rheumatic affections, cutaneous erup
tions, scrofula, derangement of the
liver, &c, as well as paralysis, have
derived great relief, and in some
cases entire cures have been effected
by the internal use of the waters, to
gether with the external application
of an impregnated clay, which abounds
in the neighbourhood.
Steamers regularly touch there
during the season.
The steamer leaves Langosund on
Friday, at 6 a.m.
Kragerde, at 8 a.m. This small
town is celebrated for the goodness of
its oysters.
BisBer, 10 a.m.
LyngSer, 104 a.m.
DynyS, 114 a.m.
Akendal, 1 P. m. This is a small
but pretty town, built on rocks pro
jecting into the channel formed by
the belt of islands off this range of
234
iiOCTE 25.
CHKISTIAN"ia to east kinmark.
coast, anil near the month of the Nid

Elv. Ships lie close to the houses, as
. the depth of water is ample for the
purpose. The quay runs in front of
the principal street facing the S. E. ;
it is broad and well laid out, and,
viewed from the sea, the houses built
upon it have an imposing appearance.
Close to the town, on the banks of a
small lake, there are some celebrated
iron mines.
Grimstad, 2| p.m.
Lillesand, 4 p.m., to Christiansand,
where the boat lies until the next
morning.
Christiansand is 161 English miles
from Christiania. See Rolite 24.
There are two tolerable inns in the
town. Christiansand is the capital
of the province or diocese of that
name, and ranks as the 4th city in
Norway. It is the residence of the
Stift Amtmand and the Bishop. It
was founded in the year 1641, by
Christian IV. ; its harbour is one of
the best in Norway. The cathedral
is a fine building of grey stone, and
ranks next to those of Trondhjem and
Stavanger. The situation of the
town upon the Topdals Fjord, and with
the rocks rising around it on the land
side to a great height, is strikingly
picturesque. The Torrisdal Elv enters
the fjord close upon the east side of
the town. There is a branch of the
National Bank here, and a Grammar
School, where scholars are prepared
for the University. The town is de
fended by a fortress on the small
Island of Oddero, at the entrance to
the harbour. Christiansand contains
about 10,000 inhabitants: it has a
considerable trade, the arrivals and
departures annually being about
54,345 tons, and 54,548 tons respec
tively. Great quantities of lobsters
are shipped from hence forthe London
market, 24 lobster smacks being regu
larly employed in this trade during
the season. There is a fine bridge
over the river leading to Oddenas
Church, a building of some antiquity,
Norway.
situated about J of a mile from the

river. In the churchyard are several
old tombstones, and a Runic stone,
supposed to be as old as the middle of
the 11th century, is worthy the atten
tion of the antiquary.
The British Vice-Consul, Mr. J.
Moreh, is deservedly noted for his
courtesy to British travellers. Three
miles up the Torrisdal River there is a
fine fall, "Hel-fos." The road is
along the bank of the river, passes
through a grand pass, and the salmonfishing is well spoken of, and is abund
ant during the season.
Travellers frequently land at Chris
tiansand, and strike into the country
at once, either to the Hardanger, Tellemarken, or to Sceterdal. For dis
tances, stations, &c, see Route 24.
The steamer leaves Christiansand
again on
Saturday morning at 5 a.m.
Kleven, 8 a.m.
Farsund, 11 A. M. A small pic
turesque town, containing 1200 in
habitants, and carrying on a lively
trade ; it possesses a good harbour.
Flekkefjord, 2 p.m. Small town,
containing 1560 inhabitants.
Rwjefjord, 4 p.m.
Erjersund, 6 p.m., to Stavanger,
where she lies until the next morn
ing.
Egersund is one of the numerous
ports of refuge on this coast, contain
ing 1700 inhabitants ; it carries on
a lively trade with our northern ports,
and with its lobster trade gives regular
employment to several of our lobster
smacks.
Stavanger, although only contain
ing 12,000 inhabitants, is an import
ant town : it derives its importance,
however, from the herring-fishery, the
annual catch of which averages be
tween 300,000 and 400, 000 barrels. It
is one of the most ancient towns in
Norway, and was a bishopric prior to
the fotmdation of Christiansand. The
cathedral, with the exception of that
of Trondhjem, is considered to be the
Norway,
route 25.round t.HE COAST BY STEAMERS.
most perfect specimen of the archi

tecture of the Middle ages in Norway.
It is well preserved, and very inte
resting. " It is remarkable that the
Gothic of the 13th century in Norway
is of the early English character."
The town is built on the N.E. side
of a large promontory in Stavanger
Fjord, and commands beautiful views
over the fjord and the range of moun
tains in the distance to the E. and
N.E., extending up to the Hardanger
range. A small island in front of the
town renders the harbour one of the
most secure on the coast.
There is a considerable trade be
tween the Baltic and this port, as
well as with France, the tonnage that
enters in and out during the season
is considerable ; according to the last
return, *27, 690 tons entered, and
31,408 tons departed.
Excursions from Stavanger are nu
merous and beautiful. See Route 24.
The steamer leaves Stavanger on the
Sunday, at 5 a.m.
Kobbeniy, 8 a.m.
Hangemnd, 9 a.m.
Mosterhavn, 11 a.m.
Lervig, at 12 noon.
Teroen, 2 p.m. For those who
wish to explore the Hardanger Fjord,
this is the best place to leave the
steamer. See Routes 21 and 23.
Bukken, at 5 p.m., to Bergen, where
the boat lies over untii Tuesday morn
ing, giving passengers a day to explore
the town. For description, see Route
21. She leaves
Bergen, Tuesday, at 5 a.m.
Skjcergehavn, 10 a. m.
Sandesund, 2 p.m.
Floroen, 4 p.m.
Bryggen, 8 p.m. Between Bryggen
and Larsnnces, at the N.E. corner of
Bremanger, there is a rock called
Hornelen, which rises 1200 ft. per
pendicular from the water. The
depth of water is very great outside
Bremanger, there being no soundings
at a very little distance from the land
for many hundred fathoms.
285
Larmms, Wednesday, 3 a. m.
Volden, 5 a.m.
Egmnd, 6 a.m.
Hartid, 8 a.m.
Aalesund, 9 a. m. See description
of Aalesund in page 210.
Molde, 1 p. M. See Route 30.
Christiansund, where she lies the
night over, leaving
Christianmnd, Thursday, 3 A.M.
See description of Christiansund in
page 211.
jEdS, 5 a.m.
Bcekken, 6 a.m.
Skibiues, 7 a.m.
Havn, 8 a.m.
Bejan, 11 4 a.m.
Jtijdbjerget, 14 P.M., to
Trondhjem, where the steamer
lies over till Saturday.
On Saturday the steamer con
tinues her northward trip, reaching
Namsos, at the mouth of the Namsen,
on Sunday. From Namsos ô Hammerfest the voyage occupies about 5
days. The general features of the
coast have been described in Route 24.
It has not been thought necessary to
give a list of all the petty stations
at which the steamer calls. Printed
lists (to be obtained also in Christiania)
are hung up in all the steamers, which
give full information of the days and
hours at which the steamer calls at
the various stations. She stops 6
hours at Bodo to coal, 24 at Tromso,
and about 48 at Hammerfest, before
commencing her return voyage. From
Hammerfest another steamer, in con
nection with this, proceeds, as stated
in Route 24, to Vadso, in East Finmark, returning to Hammerfest in
time to catch the steamer going south
from Hammerfest in the ensuing
week.
The whole voyage, with the excep
tion of the short distance between
Grotii and the Loffoden Islands, is
among the numerous islands which
surround the coast, and which form
one of the most extensive and splendid
inland navigations in the world ; if
230
ROUTE 20. CHKISTJAXIA TO TItONDHJElI.
the weather lie fine, which is very

likely to he the case during the sum
mer months, the admirer of nature
in her sternest form will he amply
repaid for the fatigue and expense of
the voyage.
Those desirous of proceeding from
Trondhjem to the Namsen and Alten
Rivers for salmon-fishing will find
full particulars in Route 24. For
the Namsen, passengers can land at
Nanisos at the mouth of the Namsen,
and from thence take a boat to Spillum, i\ m., upon the Namsen Fjord
(see Route 24), and only \\ m. by
laud from the Hun Station upon the
Namsen.
For the Alten, passengers land at
*liostk'ip, 1 m. by land from Alten,
for which see Route 21.
Prior to the establishment of a
steamer, in 1838, the only means of
proceeding to the N., after leaving
Aargaard, or Foldereide, N. of the
Namsen itiver, was, either by hiring
a boat with 3 or 4 men for a certain
distance, or by the regular post,
changing boats at each of the stations
en route. The names of the stations,
and the distances for a boat voyage,
are given in Route 24.
This mode of travelling has its
charms to the scientific traveller, and
especially to the naturalist and geolo
gist, it affords by far the most satis
factory means of investigating the
objects he is in pursuit of. The three
summer months affording one almost
continued day, the ground is quickly
traversed, and the traveller has the
advantage of stopping and making
detours where and how he pleases.
At almost all the water .stations N.
of Trondhjem comfortable quarters
will be found, and the islands and
fjords contain numerous fishing huts.
H.uimekfest, see page 22S ; also
for information as to making the voy
age from thence to the North Cape.
NoruaiJ.
ROUTE 26.
CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM BY RAIL TO
EIDSVOLD, THESCE BY STEAMER OVER
THE MIOSEN TO LILLEHAMMER,
THROUGH GUDBRANDSDAL, AND OVER
THE DOVRE FJELD.
Dist. 48} Norsk m., or a little
under 340 Eng. The time requisite
for this journey is 4 or 5 days. Those
who are desirous of going by the
steamer from Trondhjem, either
southwards or northwards, should
ascertain the exact day of its de
parture at Christiania, so as to regu
late their journey accordingly. The
post goes twice a week by this road,
and Forbud papers can be sent byi .
See preliminary observation^ and
Route 21. It is possible for travel
lers to go by road from Christiania to
Eidsvold, or Minde on the Mioaen.
The stations are Christiania to
tGrorud, J; fSkrimstad, J ; tKloften,
1\; +Trygstad, \; Dahl, ]i; fPiro,
| ; fEidsvold, 1. These are all fast
stations : but the road is so uninterest
ing, that the railway is always pre
ferred. It may be as well to remark,
that a road turns off westwards from
Grorud, and joins Route 27 near
Sogstad ; and that at Kloften, the
road to Stockholm through Kongsvingjr, turns off to the E. : Route 35.
Two passenger trains run daily
from Christiania to Eidsvold, and
back ; one in the morning, and one
in the afternoon each way, perform
ing the journey a little under three
hours.
There are now four steamers con
stantly plying on the Midsen, so that
by leaving Christiania by the morning
train, travellers can reach Lillehammer at the N. end of the lake the
same evening, a distance of 15 Norsk
m., or 105 Eng.
The steamer leaves Eidsvold on the
arrival of the morning train from
Christiania, and after ascending the
Norway.
ROUTE 26.
OVER THE DOVRE FJELD.
Wormen to Minde, at the S. end of

the Miosen, it proceeds on its voyage
to Lillehammer, calling at various
places en route. The fare 1st class,
from Christiania to Eidsvold, for each
person, is about 6 marks ; and for the
steamer, about 1 sp. d. more. The
charge for the railway for taking a
carriole, or what the Norwegian road
book terms a " Gigh" that emblem
of respectability, is 2 sp. d., and
about 1 sp. d. for the steamer. If
the traveller intends to pursue his
journey beyond Lillehammer he had
better buy his carriole and all ne
cessaries for the journey in Christia
nia. The preliminary remarks in
Route 21, concerning requisites, &c.
for the journey, are applicable here ;
with this exception, that by selecting
his night-quarters carefully, and by
' sending a Forbud to order horses, and
provisions to be ready, the traveller
will always obtain eatable food. If
he cannot eat the black rye bread of
the country, he had better take a box
of biscuits from Christiania. On
the road it is expedient to have the
wheels of the carriole greased every
morning, or at least every other mornning. Patent boxes, or axles are not
yet introduced.
Near Eidsrold there is a mansion
formerly belonging to the Anker
family, celebrated for being the spot,
where the members who framed the
Constitution of Norway in 1814 met,
established and proclaimed the inde
pendence of the country. The house
has been purchased by public subscrip
tion in commemoration of that
event.
From Minde, Route 29 on the
eastern side of Mib'sen diverges to
Lillehammer ; and, from Korsodegaarden, on that route, the road through
Osterdalen up the valley of the
Glommen, Route 31, turns off to
the E.
From Piro, 1 m. from Eidsvold on
the old Christiania road, Route 28 on
the western side of Miosen to Lille
hammer turns off. The roads on both

sides of the lake, are infamous, experto crede, and the steamer should
always be taken in preference. If
obliged to take either, select Route
28 on the western side.
The accommodation at Minde is
good, and the fishing is well spoken
of ; trout of 30 lbs. having been
taken in the lake. No salmon can
get up here, on account of the falls
of the Glommen, of which the MiBseu
lake is a feeder. There is a species
of fresh-water herring in the Mib'sen,
which is taken in large quantities.
The MiS ai Lake. This beautiful
water extends from Minde to Lille
hammer, on the N.W., 63 Eng. m.
It has several branches, all on the E.
bank; the largest of them is nearly
in the centre of the lake, at its
widest part, opposite the Island of
Helgeb. The streams and torrents
flowing into it are numerous, but its
principal tributary is the Logen,
which enters the lake at Lillehammer,
Minde is in the Agerhuus district.
On the E. bank of the Miosen, 1^ m.
from Minde, the Hedemarken district
begins, and continues till near Lille
hammer. Two miles from Minde
on the W. bank, the Christians
district, or province of Thoten,
begins, and continues all the way up.
The town of Lillehammer is in this
district, which extends to the-N. of
the Dovre Fjeld.
This lake was violently agitated at
the time of the great Lisbon earth
quake, on 1st Nov. 1755; on which
occasion, it is said, that its waters
rose 20 ft., and then suddenly
retreated. The scenery towards the
end of the lake is more pleasing than
picturesquethe hills upon the banks
are rather low, and wanting in fine
outline; they are covered to the
water's edge with woods of alder,
birch, mountain ash, &c, and in the
lower slopes, and forests of pine and
fir above. The farms on both sides
are very numerous and valuable.
238
ROUTE 20. CHRISTIANIA TO TBONDHJEH.
Towards the head of the lake the

scenery becomes finer, the hills in
crease in height, and are more pic
turesque in form.
The cuisine on board the steamers
is moderately good and very reason
able. The wine excellent. Carriages
and carrioles are placed upon a barge
which is towed by the steamer ; there
is rarely any chance of there being
no room to take a carriage, for if they
have more goods and carriages than
one barge will carry, they quickly
have a second in tow. The steamer
calls at seven places for goods and
passengers during the voyage. The
variety of passengers is amusing, and
the habits of many of them most
primitive. Tobacco is in great re
quest amongst all classes of the men,
and its consequences are visible in all
directions on the deck. Hut the
honest, open-hearted bearing of the
people, added to their constant and
sincere desire to oblige strangers, who
are visiting the country, make ample
amends for all their little eccentri
cities.
About half-way up the lake the site
of Stor Hammer is passed ; it was
formerly a town of considerable ex
tent, and the seat of a bishopric.
The Swedes burned and plundered it
in 1567. Some considerable and
picturesque ruins of the Cathedral
still exist, which may be seen from
the lake. "They chiefly consist of a
wall with four round arches. The
Cathedral remained nearly entire
till towards the end of the 17th cen
tury, when it went to ruin. It was
formerly very magnificent, and con
tained many paintings and ornaments;
a large organ, and a miraculous cru
cifix, that wept blood from a reservoir
in the head. There were also three
other churches in Stor Hammer, of
which no vestiges are left. It is now
again a rising little town."MS.
notes, W. E. C. N. Travellers can get
across from Stor Hammer to Frogner
i Vang, |, on Route 29; and from
Norway.
thence to t Sigstad, li, on Route 31

in Osterdalen.
Somewhat further up, on the
Island of Helgeo, are the ruins of a
castle, built by Hako IV. It is in con
templation to erect extensive works
of defence upon this island, and
make it a grand military arsenal of
the country.
Opposite this Island of Helgeo, on
the W. bank of the lake, is the vil
lage of Hof, where the steamer calls
for passengers. Hof is close to Sogstad from whence a most curious
Obelisk may be visited. See Koute
28.
Half~waybetween StorHammerand
Lillehammer on the E. shore, is the
church of Ringsaker, said to be built
on the site of one of King Olafs vic
tories. Inside there is a curious
carved altar-piece, painted and gilt. "
* LiLiiEriAMMER. Station - house
comfortable, and charges reasonable.
Kept by Madame "Ormsrud." There
is also a small hotel kept by a man
of the name of "Hammer," which
is tolerably comfortable. Carrioles
are sometimes to be bought here.
" This town was formerly of con
siderable extent, and the seat of a
bishopric. It had a cathedral and a
monastery, both founded about 1160,
by Adrian, an Englishman, at that
time the Pope's Legate in Norway.
He afterwards became a Cardinal,
under the name of Nicholas Breakspear, of St. Alban's, and Pope, under
the title of Hadrian IV. The place
was burned by the Swedes in the
17th century." Lairxjs Norway,
p. 437.
. .
Lillehammer is now a small but
rising town, population above 1000.
It is situated at the head of the
Miosen, on high ground, overlooking
the lake, having the river Lorjen on
the W., at its confluence with the
lake. The trout in the Logen are
celebrated, and for some distance up
the stream run to a very large size.
There are Beveral saw-mills upon a
Norway.
ROUTE 26. GUDBBANDSDALEX.
small torrent on the N. of the town. Eng. m. The greater part of it

The walks around here are beautiful. is narrow and winding, with towering
From a seat upon the Christiania mountains on either side, cultivated
road, a short distance on the S. of on the lower slopes, and generally
the town, there is a most extensive covered with pine forests in the
and lovely view over the lake and upper parts. Here and there the
surrounding country. It should, if valley widens for a short distance,
possible, be seen at sunset.
but nowhere to a greater extent than
' ' I cannot take leave of the lovely 6 or 7 Eng. miles.
Miosen Lake, without stating my
On leaving Lillehammer our road
hearty concurrence with Dr. Clarke continues N., and shortly commands
and other writers quoted by him, a beautiful and extensive view over
that the banks of this lake and of the town and lake. A torrent from
its feeding river, the Logen, for the the E. is crossed soon afterwards, and
distance of 170 Eng. m. from the road joins the margin of the
Tofte, in Gudbrandsdalen, affords a River Logen, on the left lank. From
series of the finest landscapes in the this spot the beauties of the Gud
world ; that it is doubtful whether brandsdal commence. A succession
any other river can show such a con of rapids and grand cascades are
stant succession of beautiful scenery. passed, as the road continues to
He might have added that the gran ascend the valley. The colour of
deur of the forest-clad mountains the water is of a milky blue, like
which inclose the rich and charming snow water, but it abounds in fish.
valleyof Gudbrandsdal, through which
+ Moshuus, If. Not very first-rate
it winds its impetuous course, is quite quarters. The shooting as well as
equal to its beauties, and that the fishing about here well spoken of.
richness and fertility of the banks of Near this place the river makes
the lake are on a par with both." a grand fall, called the HunneBarrow's North of Europe, p. 371. fos, beyond which the lake trout
In goingSouthfrom Lillehammer, cannot get up the river. They come
this route may be varied by following up like salmon to spawn, and some of
Route 28, to Krcemmerbakken, along these monsters have been taken here,
the W. side of the Miosen. From weighing up to 36 lbs. Above thisKrcemmerbakken, by Route 27, to fall the fish are smaller, but most
Grinagermarken, and from there by abundant in the Logen, and all its
Route 21 to Christiania. Or along the tributary lakes and streams, not only
W. side of the Tyri Fjord to Dram- trout but various other kinds. The
men, Kongsberg, and the magnificent mountains continue to increase in
grandeur, as the road proceeds up
Riukan-fos. See Route 23.
' ' The most striking features of the this glorious valley. Farms thickly
road between Lillehammer and studded on bth sides. A steep hill
Trondhjem are the entrance of Gud occurs on this stage, passing through
brandsdal between Lillehammer and a pine forest ; exquisite views of the
Moshuus, the pass of Rusten between river beneath and valley beyond.
Laurgaard and Brandhaugen, and the
+ Holmen, 1. Station-house some
descent of the Driva from Kongsvold distance off the road, on the right.
to Drivstuen."Forbes's Norway, On 15th August a large horse fair is
held here, which lasts for 3 days. It
p. Gudbrandsdalen.
8.
This wondrously- is well attended. Some of the finest
beautiful valley commences at Lille horses in Norway may be seen at it,
hammer, and extends up to the foot many of them as much as 16 hands
of the Dovre Fjeld, about 168 high, and beautifully-shaped animals ;
2-10
T.OUTE 26. CIIRISTI.ANIA TO TRONDHJEM.
but for service they are not to be

compared with the smaller and more
genuine Norwegian breed, which aver
age about 13 or 14.
A little beyond Holmen the Moxa
Eh dashes across our route, while on
the left a by-road crosses the river by
a picturesque log-bridge, and leads to
a most wild and mountainous country
on the N.W. full of small lakes and
torrents.
The river forms a narrow lake
nearly all this stage. From Holmen
to Baadsto it is a short \ m. The
Moshuus horses will generally skydse
on to Baadsto, passing the Holmen
station. At Baadsto you take the
steamer Dale-Gudbrand on the Losna
to Elstadt, avoiding the following
station of Losnres, excepting in win
ter. There is some fatigue, but not
much time saved, in going up by the
steamer. Coming down, there is
considerable saving of both. Inquire
directly on arriving at Lillehammer
the time of the steamer's departure
from Baadsto. On coming down,
apply early to the captain of the
steamer to order horses from Holmen
to come down to meet the steamer at
Baadsto. He orders them in the ro
tation in which he is applied to.
There is now a good level road all the
way from Lillehammer to Baadsto.
Losnoes, 1|, pay for
The
Troms Eh is crossed upon this stage,
up the valley of which stream a
horse-track turns off to the E. and
joins Route 31, nesr the Messelt sta
tion upon the Glommen.
Near here the roafl crosses the
Troms Eh, the bed of which is some
200 ft. below. To the right is seen
a picturesque fissure in the mountain.
It is called the "Devil's Rock," as
the torrent is subterranean for some
distance from the spot where it issues
from the mountain. The scenery in
creases in grandeura very steep hill
occurs on this stage, from which the
views are very fine.
* Elstad, |, pay for 1. The sta
Konvay.
tion here is about \ mile English off

the road to the left. It is good, and
more beautifully situated than any
other on the road. It is built on the
point of a hill, which projects into
the valley, and commands extensive
and lovely views.
The station-master is unusually in
telligent for his class. The. snipeshooting in the valley below is said to
be excellent. By the road-side oppo
site the turn to the station is the
picturesque and antique church of
Ringebo.
From hence the valley continues
most lovely all this stage, the large
stream flowing sluggishly on its course.
Two torrents from the E. , the Yaalen
Eh and Erye Eh, dashing through
picturesque rocky gorges, are crossed
about midway on this stage. Near
the latter a horse-track turns off on
the right to the valley of the Gflommen : Route 32.
Lillehove, 1{. A pretty church
near the station. Shooting about
here is said to be fine.
On this stage the valley widens,
and is more highly cultivated, but the
upper parts of the mountains still
clothed with continuous pine forest.
The stream again becomes very rapid,
and forms two fine and picturesque
cataracts. The land near the river
exceedingly rich.
+ (Hen, J. A torrent, the Seid
Eh, is crossed near the station, and
the road keeps close to the Logen \ip
this rich and splendid valley. Irriga
tion prevails here extensively, and
continues for several stages - - the
water being led down the mountains
in wooden troughs to the different
farms.
* f Viig, 1. Comfortable quarters
and reasonable charges ; game said to
be plentiful about here. Situation of
the station beautiful,, on the bank of
the stream, and surrounded by moun
tains. Some of the timbers in this
house are shown which formed part
of the old house in which St. Olaf
Norway.
ROUTE 28. GUDBRANDSDALEX.
-was born, and which stood near this

spot.
On leaving Viig the valley takes a
westerly direction, and winds a good
deal, the stream dashing along at
a racing pace. Not far from Viig,
the church of Qvam is passed on the
right. Here Colonel Sinclair was
buried. The scene of his slaughter
and that of his devoted band is
passed on the next stage. The Veglie Elv is crossed soon afterwards,
and about here the road is 863 feet
above the sea, according to Forsell's
map. About midway upon this
stage the valley again turns almost
due N. At this bend of the valley
the Hedals Elv, from the W. , joins
the Logen. A horse-track leads up
the valley of the Hedals Elv to the
mountains on the W. A road turns
off from Viig to Espedal's Iron Works,
distant 4J m.
It is also possible to go from hence
through Vaage to the church of
Lomb, on the E. side of the Sogne
Fjeld. The stations areViig to
Sondre Fougstad, If ; Bjolstad i
Vaage, 1 ; Bjb'rnstad, 1 ; Sandboe,
1 ; and across the Vaage Vand to
Gardmo i Lomb,
; there is a
horse-track round the lake, 2 m.
From Gardmo to Andvord, 1J ; Rodsheim, 1J. Hence pedestrians or even
a horse can go to Optun, 5\ m. in
Nordre Bergenhuus Amt ; and from
Optun there is a track to the head of
the Lyster, or of the Aardals Fjord,
the two westernmost arms of the
Sogne Fjord. From the head of Lys
ter Fjord boats to Leirdalsoren can be
taken on Route 21, which see. This
route will take pedestrians through
some of the wildest parts of Norway :
considerable hardship will have to be
endured. From Rbdsheim, Galdhopiggen, the highest mountain in Nor
way, may be ascended. It is 8300
Norsk feet above the sea. A pedes
trian may force his way hence over
snow-covered fjelds, ascending Glittertind on his way, 7800 feet, to
241
Gjendin Vand, thence to Bygdin

Vand, a large mountain lake, 3500
feet above the sea. If not fortunate
enough to fall in with a hut, the tra
veller will have to camp out. There
is a hut at the W. end of Bygdin
Vand.
From thence along the Tyen
Vand to Nystuen on the Fille Fjeld,
Route 21. This path should not be
attempted without a guide, and it
may be no easy matter to get one.
It was followed in 1852 by Mr. M.,
however, without one, but there is
considerable risk in the undertaking.
From Optun Skagstoltind, 7877 feet,
a peak of the Horungerne mountains
may be ascended.
For further information, see Route
38.
+ Solheim, 1%. Near here the
river forms a small lake, close to the
head of which the Otta Elv joins the
Logen on the W. A little further up,
a torrent from the E. , the Ulen Elv,
forms a picturesque fall, and turns
several saw-mills. Soon after leaving
Solheim, the road passes a very
steep hill, called Kringelen; the
scene of the massacre of Colonel
Sinclair, and his Scotch followers.
At this spot a small post with an
inscription marks the spot where
Colonel Sinclair fell. In 1612, during
the war between Christian IV. of
Denmark and Gustavus Adolphus of
Sweden, a body of Scotch troops
had been raised for the service of
Sweden. The Danes were at that
time in possession of Gottenburg;
and from Calmar, in the Baltic, to the
North Cape, the whole coast was oc
cupied by the subjects of Christian
IV. The Scotch, therefore, decided
on the bold plan of landing in Nor
way, and fighting their way across it to
Sweden. A portion landed at Trondhjem, and the rest, 900 strong, com
manded by Col. George Sinclair,
landed in Romsdalen (see Route 30),
from whence they marched toward
this valley, ravaging the country on
M
212
eoute 26.CHMSTlAsiA to TROKDHJEM.
their way. At Kringelen an ambush

was prepared by about 300 peasants ;
huge quantities of rocks, stones, and j
trees were collected on the mountain,
and so placed that all could at once j
be launched upon the road beneath. '
Everything was done to lull the j
Scotch into security, and with perfect '
success. When they arrived beneath
the awful avalanche prepared for
them, all was sent adrift from above, .
and the majority of the Scotch were
crushed to death, or swept into the i
river and drowned ; the peasants !
then rushed down upon the wounded j
and stragglers and despatched them. ;
Of the whole force only two of the
Scotch are said to have survived.
But accounts differ on this point, one ;
being that 60 prisoners were taken
and afterwards slaughtered in cold
blood.
Sinclair's lady is said to have
accompanied him, and it is added that
a youth who meant to join the pea
sants in the attack was prevented by
a young lady, to whom he was to be
married the next day. She, on hear
ing that one of her own sex was with
the Scotch, sent her lover to her protection ; Mrs. Sinclair, mistaking
his object, shot him dead. Laing's .
Norway. The date of this massacre
was the 24th August, 1612.
The rest of the Scotch, with some
Dutch, were completely successful in
their object. They were commanded
by Colonel Monnichofen, landed N. of
Trondhjem, marched upon Stockholm,
which they aided in relieving from
the Danish forces most opportunely,
and enabled the Swedish monarch soon
afterwards to conclude advantageous
terms of peace.Geycr's Histoire de
Suide.
.
In a house near this place of
slaxighter it is said that some arms
and otheT trophies taken by the
peasants from the Scotch are pre
served.
The road now follows the stream,
and from the foot of this celebrated
Norway.
hill there is a most picturesque view

of it, and the valley and river on
the right. Before arriving at the
next station the stream is crossed
by a new bridge to the right bank.
From Solheim a road also diverges
to Lomb Church, joining the route
described above from Viig, the last
station, at Bjornstad. The stages are
Solheim to Voeggum, 1 m. ; Bjfirnsfcad, 1.
Laurgaard, 1J. Station some
distance off the road to the left on
crossing the river. Accommodation
very inferior. Shooting around here
said to be fine. Reindeer are often
to be met with in the Rundane moun
tains, aboat 3 m. N. E. of this. Also
white foxes and wolves. The most
W. of this group is 6000 feet above
the sea. On the opposite side, &
little higher up, the Safer A ae joins
the river. From Laurgaard a by
road branches off to the W. by the
Vaage Vand, from whence horsetracks lead across the mountains of
the SSgne Fjeld, Route 38, and by
the Justedal Glaciers, to the Sb'gne
Fjord (see Route 21). The distance
from Laurgaard to Sandbb'e, where
the route described from Viig is
joined, is 2 m. Also to the high road
on the W. coast, between Bergen and
Molde, Route 24. Ponies and gnides
may be obtained at the different sta
tions. The bridge at Laurgaard is
1000 Eng. feet above the sea, and the
highest point passed on the next
stage is about 1800, descending
again, however, considerably to the
church at Dovre, which is not more
than 1500.
Continuing our route from Laur
gaard, the road is very hilly on this
stage, the scenery grand in the ex
treme, and increasing in wildness.
During this and the next stage the
mountains on the W. are those of the
Haalangcn Fjeld. In one part the
road is carried over the shoulder of a
mountain, called Rtisten, at a great
height above the level of the river,
Norway.
BOTJTE 26.
THE DOVKE FJELD.
which foams through a narrow rocky

gorge to the right.
* f Brandkaugen, 1, pay for 1J.
A nice clean station. Reindeer veni
son is sometimes to be had here.
The trout-fishing and shooting about
here highly spoken of. The road
still continues on the left bank.
Numbers of small farms up the sides
of the mountains on this stage ; the
soil light ; and vast forests of pine.
River close on the left all the rest of
the way. The village of Dovre and
its pretty church are passed on the
left, shortly previous to the next
station. The wondrously beautiful
Grudbrandsdal is considered as com
mencing from this village of Dovre,
and the fjeld properly begins at
*f Tofte, 1. Road still continues
close alongside the river all the way,
and gradually ascending. The valley
contracts, and the soil becomes more
sandy. It is said that the stationmaster here can trace his pedigree up
to Harald Haarfagre.
* t Dombaas, 1. Capital quar
ters. The station stands at some
little distance off the road on the left.
Here Route 30 turns off, leading
through the magnificent valley of
Romsdal to the town of Molde, on
the N.W.
Our route now quits this valley of
the Logen, and, turning N.E., the
ascent of the
Dovre Fjeld
is commenced, which soon becomes
very steep. Splendid views are ob
tained over the Lesje Vamd, on the
road to Molde. The road passes
through a picturesque forest of old
Scotch firs before arriving at the next
station ; and a small lake, the Fogs
Aae, is crossed, which is the source
of one of the large tributaries of the
Glommen. The limit of Scotch fir
here is about 2870 Eng. feet alwvethe
sea : birch ceases about 400 feet
higher.
T Fohstuen, 1. The station is

much improved lately; it is 3150 feet
above the level of the sea. A short dis
tance from hence the plateau of the
Dovre Fjeld is attained, but the road
gradually ascends during all this stage.
About midway it passes between
two desolate-looking lakes, formed by
the stream from the Fogs Aae, which
runs through them. The lake on the
left is the Volu, and from thence the
stream takes the name of the Fulda.
The scenery wild, and vegetation
scanty. A few stunted birch are the
only trees to be seen.
* t Jerkin, lj. An excellent
station. Everything clean and good,
and great attention paid to the com
fort of the guests. Charges very
reasonable. There are five good and
well-furnished rooms. English gen
tlemen have stayed here upwards of
two months at a time for the sake of
the shooting. The station-master is
a large farmerbreeds horses exten
sively, and is quite a genius. The
rooms are decorated with his paint
ings, and his carvings in wood are
admirable. Specimens may be pur
chased, such as spoons, handles for
knives, &c, carved in reindeer horn.
There also may be seen all the econo
my of a mountain farm. The dairy
at Jerkin is well worth a visit. The
landlord keeps 35 cows, and 21
horses. Potatoes grow near the
house. In fact, whether for grand
scenery, sporting, or comfort, this is
one of the most tempting places in
all Norway at which to linger, at
least for a few days. The postman
acts as carrier for anything which
may be wanted from Christiania or
Trondhjem. Ladies will, perhaps,
be favoured with a sight of the
family wardrobe, and amused at the
number and variety of the dresses
hung round the room, furs for win
ter, &c.
The establishment of Jerkin as a
station dates from the early part of
the 12th century, together with Fog
ii 2
241
ROUTE 26. CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM.
stuen and Tofte on the S.W., and

Kongsvold on the N. They are
called FjelcUtuen (mountain lodgings),
and, as such, are rent and tax free.
This station is seldom without
reindeer venison, which is supplied
by a man named Per, who lives in
the immediate vicinity of the moun
tain of Sneehcetten. He is said to
be a crack shot, and acts as guide
and keeper for any sportsman stop
ping here. He has dogs, but they
are useless except for deer or hares.
Ptarmigan are plentiful, and a good
brace of setters would be invaluable
for them. Mr. Laing speaks well of
the trout- fishing here ; the fish are
small, but numerous.
From Jerkin a station-road runs
E. for some distance down the valley
of the Folda Elv (Foldalen), and
joins Route 31 in the valley of the
Glommen, at Neby. The deer
stalking at Foldalen, in the autumn,
is well spoken of, and elk, though
very scarce, are at times met with
there.
Excursion to Sneeliostten. Jerkin
is an excellent place from whence to
visit this celebrated mountain ;
horses and guides can be obtained
here. A day's provisions, including
some brandy, are requisite. The
view, from the summit of the moun
tain, at sunrise and sunset, is sub
lime. The lover of the picturesque
will also be repaid by a visit to Per,
the hunter's, dwelling. He and his
wife and children reside here through
out the winter, and are the only in
habitants of this wild district within
a range of 14 Eng. miles. Snee
hcetten is on the N.W. of Jerkin ;
the ascent is so gradual that much of
the effect of its great height, 7714
English feet, is lost. Its peaked
summit is only about 3500 feet
above the base from whence it
springs. It was long considered the
highest mountain in Norway, but it
appears that Skagstols Tind in the
Sogne Fjeld (see Route 38) is 163
Norway.
feet higher,* and Graldhopiggen (see

Viig, in this Route) is still higher,
being 8300 Norsk feet.
' ' Sneehoetten may be ascended in
an easy day from Jerkin ; it is 3 or
4 hours' riding to the base of the
mountain, and from thence about an
hour and a halfs walking to the top,
most of it over that peculiar kind of
snow-ice which is, I believe, found on
the highest summits of snow moun
tains. The ascent is without diffi
culty. The view is fine ; to the N.
a very wild prospect of mountains ;
to the E. an immense table-land of
moor. It is well to take horses, as
many streams must be crossed.
Sneehoetten forms the N.W. extre
mity of one of those ridges of high
snow mountains which rise out of
the great table-land of moor, which
separates the E. and W. declivities
of the Scandinavian mountains. It
rises much above the snow line, and
contains true glaciers. The moun
tain itself is very picturesque : at
the foot lies a little lake, backed by
glaciers, and those again by black
precipices, rising above them in the
form of an amphitheatre. It is a
remarkable instance how much more
the height of the snow-line depends
upon the accidents of situation and
atmosphere than upon latitude, that
the table-land about Jerkin, which
in summer is entirely free from
snow, rises to a height as great or
greater than those mountains near
Bergen, which, in a much warmer
climate, and a degree and a half
farther S. , contain glaciers reaching
down almost to the sea level."
C. T. N.
"On the summit of Sneehoetten
there is a crater, which is broken
down on the N. side, and surrounded
on the others by perpendicular masses
of black rock, rising out of, and
high above, beds of snow that enve
lope their bases. The interior sides
* TorselPs Map, in 8 sheets: published at
Stockholm, 1815-1816
Norway.
route 26. over THE DOVRE FJELD.
245
of the crater descended in one vast that to the horses on this stage when
sheet of snow to the bottom, where the path could not be discerned;
an icy lake closed the view at the - that they would not go wrong if not
depth of 1500 feet from the highest put out of their pace, but left to
ridge. Almost at the top, and close take their way themselves. The
to the snow, which had probably but journeying on this elevated plain,
a few days before covered them, were enveloped in a cloud of snow as
some very delicate and beautiful dense almost as that on which you
flowers, in their highest bloom, of are driving, makes a subtime im
the Ranunculus glacialis, growing pression on the mind. You seem
most profusely ; nor were they the travelling in the sky. What you see
only inhabitants ; mosses, lichens, and and touch of the earth is scarcely
a variety of small herbaceous plants, more substantial than the snow that
were in the Same neighbourhood ; is whirling round and above you. It
and, lower down, dwarf birch, and a seems all one element, and you alone
species of osier, form a pretty kind in the midst of it."
of thicket. The tracks of reindeer
On quitting the plateau of the fjeld
appeared on the very topmost snow." the road enters a deep glen, down
Sir Thomas A eland. MS. Letter. which the river Driv (which rises to
Mr. Laing says : ' ' The most ex
the W. of Jerkin) forms a series of
traordinary feature of this mountain cataracts and falls. The way con
tract is that the surface of the Fell tinues by the side of this river,
and of Sneehcetten to its summit is rapidly descends and increases in
covered with, or more properly is grandeur and picturesque effect all
composed of, rounded masses of the way to Kongsvold. The variety
gneiss and granite, from the size of and richness of the moss, lichens,
a man's head to that of the hull of and herbage, and warm colour of the
a ship. These loose rolled masses rocks, in passing over the fjeld, form
are covered with soil in some places ; a study for the artist, unique and
in others they are bare, just as they charming in effect.
* t Kongsvold, f, pay for 1J.
were left by the torrents which must
have rounded them, and deposited Another excellent station. In the
event of Jerkin being full, this is
them in this region."
On quitting Jerkin, a short but the next best place as head-quarters
very steep ascent leads to the highest for the fishing and shooting to be
point of the Dovre Fjeld road, 4594 had in the region of Sneehcetten. It
feet above the sea. To the W. the is also a good place from whence to
summit of Sneehcetten may be seen ascend that mountain. This station
in clear weather. The road quickly is 3063 feet above the sea. The road
begins to descend from this grand continues close along the right bank
and desolate region ; high poles are of the Driv, nearly all the way now
fixed on each side of the road to from Kongsvold to Rise. It has been
mark the way during snow. Rein
lately made, to avoid the fearful hill
deer moss abounds here. Mr. Laing of Vaarstige, which formerly existed.
passed this way in February. It is carried all the way down the
valley now by the side of the Driva,
He says : "A smothering snow
drift came on, and it was scarcely being, in many places, quarried out of
possible to see from pole to pole. I the face of the rock. It is a striking
asked the boy who drove the baggage piece of engineering. Soon after
sledge if he was sure we were upon leaving Kongsvold, the river makes
the road. -He said they always left two picturesque falls, and a third is
route 20.chmstiania to tbondhjem.

passed on the right, about the middle
of the stage, where a torrent from
the E. joins the river. The scenery
is most grand and picturesque ; the
ravine narrow, with high mountains
clothed with birch and fir, and rocks
fine in outline, with much colour,
chiefly reds and browns. Splendid
subjects for the pencil all the way.
* + Drirstwen, If, pay for 2 m.
A large farm at this station, and
tolerable accommodation. Good troutfishing in the Driv. Here the Dovre
Fjeld is considered as ending ; height
above the sea, 2220 feet. On leaving
this station the road continues ra
pidly to descend ; scenery splendid,
and ravine narrow, till near the end
of the stage, when it widens,
patches of cultivation increase, and
the mountains decrease in grandeur.
+ Rise, \\, pay for 1^. Near
this station the Vinstra Etv is
crossed, the ravine gradually widens
into a broad valley, and the Driv
Elv becomes a fine stream. The
hills are said to abound in black
game and hares. At the village of
Opdal our road quits the river, and
runs to the N. E. Here a stationroad on the W. branches off, and
continues down the stream through
Sundalen, towards the town of
Ckrisiiansund, in Route 24. The
stations are Ovne to Aalboe, \ ;
Gravorne, J ; Elethammer i Opdal,
; Gjora i Sundal, , pay for 1 ;
neva, 1^ ; Iloaas, 1 ; Sundalen,
1 ; hence by sea to Christiansund,
i\. The Sundal is highly spoken of
as a salmon stream. The elevation
of the road near Opdal is 2114 feet,
and the peak of the Sneehcetten may
be seen about S.W.
* + Gene, f. A most comfort
able station, and excellent quarters
for fishing and shooting ; the hills
about here also are said to be rich in
game. The station-master carves
well in wood, and specimens of his
skill may be purchased. The road
Norway.
continues N. E. ; scenery not so fine

as hitherto ; mountains lower, with
much birch and scrub.
* Stuen, 1J. In the early part
of this stage the scenery is of the
same character as the last ; towards
the end of the stage the road de
scends through a thick pine forest to
T Sundxeth,
Good shooting
quarters, beautifully situated above
a ravine of enormous depth ; in the
distance mountains piled above each
other, covered with a sea of dark
pine and fir. The elevation at this
station is 1578 feet. Capereailie and
black game are said to be numerous
in this neighbourhood.
The road continues along very
high ground through a vast pine
forest till it reaches the valley of the
Orkla (or Orkel) Eh, when, after a
very long and steep descent, com
manding extensive and splendid
views, the river is crossed, and, con
tinuing up the right bank of the
stream for a short distance, a very
steep hill is ascended for the rest of
this stage. At the commencement
of the descent to the river, close by
the roadside, on the left hand, there
is a boulder, about 4 feet square, of
the most beautiful porphyry. It
looks like a conglomeration of the
finest opals. And, on crossing the
river, a station-road to the left leads
down the valley of the Orkla, and
joins the high road between Molde
and Trondhjem (Route 24) by the
following stages, viz. : Sundseth to
Flaae, ljf ; Haarstad, f ; Grudt,
lj ; and f Kalstad, 1 : in all, 4jj m.
Jiierkager, 1. In going from
hence to Sundseth, 1 are paid for.
Steep ascent continues for some dis
tance, and on reaching the high
ground the road leads through moun
tain pastures, with much scrub,
birch, and fir.
* Garlid, 1J. This station is
some distance off the road, up the
side of the mountain on the left.
Norway,
ROUTE 26.
Fair accommodation here. Charges

reasonable. An interesting aiul
most industrious family. They carve
well, and make excellent carrioles,
with springs, at 18 dollars, which is
exceedingly cheap. The knives and
other articles of steel and iron,
though roughly made by the pea
sants, are considered much superior
to those manufactured in the towns*
both as to temper and durability.
Near this station a new road to the
8.E. has been made, wliich leads
into the valley of the Glommen, near
the Neby. station, Route 31, on the
way to Christiania.
From Garlid the road keeps along
very high ground all the way, through
mountain pastures and park-like
scenery. The Villa Eh is crossed
just before the next station.
. * Hov, if. Road still runs along
high ground, through rich pastures
for some distance, and numbers of
small farms in all directions.
Scenery continues park-like, till a
rapid descent leads down the moun
tain, through a wild, picturesque
Talley, to
Soknces, 1. Poor quarters, but
the salmon-faking in the Guia {ov
Guul) Elf, near here, and higher up
about Rogstad, is excellent. Soon
after leaving Soknces, the road enters
the valley of the Gula, which it
crosses, and quickly joins the road
from Christiania, through the valley
of the Glommen, Route 31. Keep
ing N. the road continues along the
bank of the Gula, which winds its
rapid course through a dark ravine ;
the mountains on either side and in
the distance clothed with pine and
fir to their summits. Scenery be
comes less wild towards the end of
the stage.
Vollan, J. Road continues along
the eastern bank of the Gula, more
or less all the way ; several bad hills
occur. Valley highly cultivated, and
the hop extensively grown. Soon
after leaving Vollan, the stream ex
TRONDHJEM.
247
pands into a small lake, and midway

between that and Leer the Lundetogna Elv is crossed.
Zeer, \\. Road follows the wind
ings of the Gula again all this stage,
mountains becoming more rounded
and decreasing in boldness towards
Meelhuus, but still covered with
forests along the higher points.
Numbers of farms on both sides the
valley. Road hilly and bad.
* Meelhuus,, g. From hence the
church forms a most picturesque ob
ject, looking up the valley. It is
beautifully placed on the crown of a
small hill, with the fir-clad moun
tains towering above each other in the
background, and the valley winding
awayinto the fardistance onthe right.
At Meelhuus our road quits the
Gula, and passes over rounded hills
and broken, picturesque ground,
highly cultivated in places. Lovely
views on the S.E., over part of the
Trondhjem Fjord.
* Oust, |. Road continues over
well-cultivated and undulating high
land. Towards the end of the stage
the road from Christiansund, Route2-t, joins ours on the left, and soon
afterwards a scene of vast extent and
great beauty opens up from the brow
of the hill ere the long and steep
descent to Trondhjem is commenced.
In the foreground are the remains of
some old fortificationsbeneath, the
city and its ample roadstead spread
out like a map, and beyond, the
fjord, of immense extent, bounded
by mountains in the distance. And
to. the left, on the bank of the fjord,
is seen a small hill called Swerroberg,
where the renowned King Swerro is
said to have lived in the latter end
of the 12th century.
Teoxdbjem (or Drontheim), \\. .
Inns: Hotel d'Angleterre, Hotel
Belle Vue : both pretty good and com
fortable. People very civil. Hotel
du Nord. And there are several com
fortable boarding-houses, which are
less expensive than the hotels. The
248
BOUTE 26.
TRONDHJEM.
usual charges per diem at the hotels

and boarding-houses range from 1
dollar to 1J, exclusive of wine, which
is good and cheap, particularly French
wines. The two first-named hotels are
in the best part of the town, near the
cathedral and post-office, and a con
siderable distance from the jetty,
where passengers are landed from the
steamers when there is much sea. In
fine weather, the boatmen, if ordered,
will pull across the roadstead and land
their passengers close to the H6tels
d'Angleterre and Belle Vue, but this
can only be done at high water.
The Post-Office is on the S. side of
the town, opposite the Frue Kirke,
and on the way to the cathedral.
Notes may generally be changed for
small money at the post-office. See
commencement of this Route as to
sending Forbud papers by the post
upon this road.
The British Vice-Consul here is
Mr. Knudtzen. His counting-house
is on the E. side of the town near the
river. He acts as agent for some of
the London bankers, and will cash cir
cular notes and bills drawn on letters
of credit. Forget not to replenish the
stock of small money, and that it is
often difficult to obtain sufficient, ex
cept from the bank, which is only
open for about an hour early in the
morning. Nothing can exceed the
kindness and hospitality of Mr.
Knudtzen and his family to British
and American travellers. They all
speak English perfectly, and the value
of their information and advice to
travellers is as great as the readiness
with which it is afforded to those who
seek it. Mr. Knudtzen is the for
tunate possessor of several charming
works by Thorwaldsen. They have
twice been saved from destruction
when Mr. Knudtzen's town-house was
burned. Two alti-relievi are very
lovely. The subjects, Hector's inter
view with Paris and Helen ; and
Cupid and young Bacchus.
At Trondhjem the travellers' car
POST-OFl'ICE.
NoilCCIl/
riage and harness should be carefully

inspected, and damages repaired.
Trust not to others ; it requires per
sonal attention, and Norsk workmen
are slow and procrastinating. The
Shops are few and poorly stocked.
Views and prints of Norwegian cos
tumes may be purchased at reasonable
prices ; also trinkets of native manu
facture ; furs and eider-down are very
cheap, particularly ermine. The two
latter are amongst the best presents
which are to be purchased here for
friends at home. Mr. Lundgreen's,
however, is an excellent shop, where
all kinds of groceries, provisions, por
table soup, preserved meats, wine
and brandy, &c, may be bought. Mr.
Hartman's also is a good ironmonger"s
shop, where shot and Prussian powder
are to be had.
Rifle -shooting is a favourite amuse
ment amongst the gentlemen here.
E. Hoaas, near the Frue Kirke, can
repair them, but he keeps none readymade.
Capes, hat-covers, &c. , of goat-skin
are made in Trondhjem, and are ex
cellent, as well as very durable ; but
the smell from them is disagreeable
when damp.
The city of Trondhjem was founded,
a.d. 997, by King Olaf Trygvason,
upon the site of the old Scandinavian
city Nidaros. The adventures of this
king are the most romantic of all the
sovereigns of Norway. Born a prince,
his mother only saved his life from
the usurper of his rights by quitting
the country ; they were taken by
pirates, separated, and sold as slaves :
at an early age he was discovered and
redeemed by a relative, became a dis
tinguished sea king, or leader of
piratical expeditions, married an Irish
princess, embraced Christianity, and
ultimately fought his way to the
throne of Norway in 991. He then
became a most zealous missionary,
propagating the faith by his sword ;
death or Christianity was the only
alternative he allowed his subjects.
Norway,
uoute 26.teoni>hjem. national bank.
In 998 he destroyed the celebrated

Trondhjem Temple of Thor and Odin,
with the idols of those gods which
existed there, and were held in the
highest veneration. This temple was
a short distance from the walls of the
city, and upon its site the church of
Hlades was built.
Trondhjem was the royal residence
and seat of government, and remained
the capital of Norway down to the
time of its union with Denmark,
when Christiania was made the ca
pital. Its population by the census
of 1855, is about 16,000.
The city is built round a bay, on
the S. side of the fjord, at the mouth
of the river Nid. It has repeatedly
suffered from fire, most of the houses
formerly being of wood. The last was
in April, 1841, when 350 dwellings
were destroyed. Since that all the
houses rebuilt are, according to law,
of brick or stone. The streets are
regular and spacious, with large square
water cisterns at their intersections.
The architecture of the houses is of
the plainest description, without any
ornament, but they have a great air
of cleanliness and comfort.
The National Bank. ' ' This bank
was founded 1816, and has its head
office in Drontheim, with branches in
the principal towns. It is under the
direction of 5 stockholders, with a
council of 15 representatives of the
other proprietors. Its capital was
originally raised by a forced loan or
tax upon all landed property, and the
landowners became shareholders ac
cording to their respective payments.
In a short time these shares became a
valuable stock, and are at a consider
able premium. It is a bank for
landed property, and discounts bills,
&c, only as a secondary branch of
business. Its principal business is in
advancing, in its own notes, upon
first securities over land, any sum not
exceeding two-thirds of the value of
the property, according to a general
valuation of the whole country taken
249
in 1812. The borrower pays interest

at 4 per cent, half-yearly on the sum
to his debit ; and yearly 5 per cent,
of the principal, which is thus all
repaid in 20 years. In the event of
non-payment of the interest or instal
ment, the bank proceeds by a sum
mary sale of the property by public
auction to realise its security."
Laing's Norway, p. 283.
The Cathedral is the great object
of interest here. ' 1 Between the years
1016 and 1030 St. Olaf built a church
on the spot where now St. Clement's
Church stands. He was buried a
little to the south of his own church,
where the high altar now is. Between
the years 1036 and 1047 Magnus the
Good raised a small wooden chapel
over St. Olaf's grave ; and soon after
Harald Hardraade built a stone
church, dedicated to our Lady, to the
westward of this. This group of 3
churches stood in this state in the
troubled period that ensued. In 1160
Archbishop Eystein commenced the
great transept west of " our Lady's"
chapel, and probably completed it
about 1183. He or his successor re
built St. Clement's Church as it now
stands, probably about this time.
During the next 60 or 70 years the
whole of the eastern part of the
cathedral was rebuilt, the tomb-house
or shrine being joined on to the apse
of the Lady Church. In 1248 Arch
bishop Sigurd commenced the nave ;
it is not certain whether it was ever
completed. In 1328 the church was
damaged by fire : it must have been
after this accident that the inter
nal range of columns in the circular
part was rebuilt in the style of our
earlier Edwards."Ferguson's Illus
trated Handbook of Architecture, page
931.*
According to Mr. Laing the W.
end, now in ruins, was founded in
1248, and at the end of the 13th
century the whole structure must have
stood in all its splendour. The ex
treme length has been 346 feet, its
M 3
250
BOUTE 26. TRONDHJEM.
breadth 84 ; bot the W. end, which

contained the grand entrance, had a
chapel at each corner, making the
breadth of that front 140 feet. The
whole of this W. end was highly de
corated, particularly the entrance,
which had 3 doors, over which were
20 delicately-cut niches, in which
statues were placed, and, judging by
the mutilated remains, they were of
considerable merit. Many of the ex
isting ornaments of this W. end will
amply repay the trouble of seeking
them.
The shrine of St. Olaf was deco
rated with the greatest magnificence,
and long a favourite place of pilgrim
age, not only for the Scandinavians,
but for pilgrims from all parts of
Europe ; and in such veneration was
he held, that even at Constantinople
churches were erected to his memory.
Malte-Brun, v. viii. p. 518. The
body of the saint was found incorrupt
in 1098, and also in 1541, when the
Lutherans plundered the shrine of its
gold and jewels to an immense amount.
The ship which carried the greater
part of this plunder foundered at sea
on its way to Denmark, and the rest
was seized by robbers on land. The
Lutherans, however, appear to have
treated the body of the saint with
respect. In 1568 it was removed
from the shrine and buried in the
cathedral. St. Olaf was slain 31st
August, 1030. Seep. 214.
Tradition and history alike recount
how often this holy pile has suffered
from fire ; and in various parts of the
edifice finely-carved stones have been
built into the massive walls, betoken
ing but little regard to architectural
beauty or uniformity in repairing the
ravages of the devouring element.
The transept and E. end are the only
parts roofed in, and now used for
divine service.
"The upper parts of these," Mr.
Laing observes, * ' have probably been
rebuilt at various and comparatively
recent periods. By these I mean all
THE CATHEDRAL. NoriCay.
above the first arches, or those spring

ing from the ground. I conceive that
all this higher part has originally been
only of wood, and that where the
woodwork has been consumed by fire
at different periods, the stones of the
aisles and arches within the shell now
remaining of the W. end, have been
employed to build up the present walls
of the transept and other parts which
were originally of wood. Thus," he
adds, ' ' we may account for the paltry
taste and execution of all the upper
part of the structure, and for the in
sertion of cut stone mouldings of
arches where an arch could never have
been intended ; but the stones thus
built in have evidently been brought
from other places, while all that is
below, and could not possibly have
been injured by any conflagration, is
original, and, from its antiquity, style,
and execution, very interesting. The
round arch with the zigzag ornaments,
which we call Saxon, is employed in
all this old part, and also in St. Cle
ment's chapel. The present entrance
in the north transept is a fine speci
men of both ; but this simple massive
style is mixed with light pointed
arches, and adorned with grotesque
heads, flowers, and all the variety of
ornaments which are usually con
sidered peculiar to a much later
period of Gothic architecture ; but
here the two styles are evidently
coeval. It shakes the theory of the
Saxon and Norman, the round and
pointed arch having been used exclu
sively in particular and different cen
turies, and affording ground to deter
mine the comparative antiquity of
(iothic edifices. The Norman arch,
in its, most florid style, is connected
with the Saxon in its most simple and
massive form, in a building where the
known date of the portion containing
this admixture is more ancient than
the ascertained date of those English
edifices from which the theory is de
rived."
Upon the left, on entering at the
Norway, route 20.tboxdhjem.arsenal, museum.

K. door, a large and beautiful round
arch, highly decorated with the zigzag
and other ornaments, was discovered
in 1847, and carefully laid open.
The general effect of the interior of
the cathedral is ruined by the high
pews below, as well as those inclosed
in the galleries. The choir is octa
gonal, surmounted by a dome of
modern construction. The high altar
is surrounded by light pillars and
open arches extending to the roof.
The whole of the choir is most elabo
rately and beautifully decorated, and
will repay a careful and minute in
spection. Over the altar is placed a
fine cast of Thorwaldsen's noble statue
of the Saviour. On either side of it
are casts of statues of the 12 Apostles,
which are very inferior as works of
art, and ruinous to the general effect
of the choir.
" The mixture of round and pointed
arches is very remarkable. The upper
rows of arches are all round ; but in
the lower rows only the outer ones,
while the inner ones on each side next
the choir are fine full-pointed arches.
The same peculiarity may be seen in
Christchurch Cathedral in Dublin."
MS. Notes, W. E. C. N.
Considerable sums have been ex
pended within these few years in re
pairing this fine cathedral. The Nor
wegians take much pride and interest
in its preservation ; but it is evident
that none of the authorities here pos
sess either skill or taste for Gothic
architecture, for it has been fearfully
" churchwardened ;" the richest and
most elaborate tracery being carefully
choked up with coats of a leadcoloured wash.
Trondhjem Cathedral is (according
-to an article of the Constitution of
1S44) to remain the place of coronatiofff'for the Norwegian sovereigns.
The Bishop of Trondhjem performs
the ceremony. Here Bernadotte was
accordingly crowned king of Nor
way.
There are two works published on
251
this cathedral. The best is by Gerard

Schoning, in 1762, and minutely de
scribes it as it was in the days of ita
glory, besides giving several engrav
ings of the most interesting parts.
The other is by Assessor Schwaeh.
Both these works have long been out
of print, but may be seen at the
public library in the Museum. There
are also a description by Grimkele, a
notice in the " Norge fremstUlet i
Tegnimger," and a fine work by Mr.
Schvimer, of Christiania, on the ca
thedrals of Norway.
The Arsenal.On the S. side of
the cathedral are some remains of the
Royal Palace, which, with the adjoin
ing grounds, are now occupied as a
military and naval arsenal. The
throne of the old Norwegian kings is
preserved here. The naval portion
of the arsenal, with its dockyard, are
beautifully kept. They are on the
left bank of the river -Nid ; and
here are laid up in ordinary a con
siderable number of gun-boats, each
in its own shed, with all that belongs
to it, numbered and ready for instant
service.
The Museum is small and badly
kept. It comprises a library ; some
of the books are said to be very rare ;
the theological portion appears to be
the best ; the manuscripts are princi
pally letters of the kings of Norway.
Everest's Norway, p. 201. There
are likewise collections of Northern
antiquities, old armour, minerals,
shells, &c. , but the best is the collec
tion of Norwegian ornithology.
There is a theatre here. The city
contains no manufactories of import
ance. Its trade is chiefly confined to
its exports of dried and salted fish,
timber, tar, and some copper from the
mines at K5raas ; and to importing
wines, groceries, and other articles of
foreign produce, for supplying its own
as well as the wants of the neighbour
ing districts. All the products of the
country are exceedingly moderate in
price. The French and other wines
252
ROUTE 26.
TEONDHJEM.
are also cheap and very good. Of late

years Trondhjem has taken a great
lead in ship-building, and has become
celebrated for building very fast sail
ing vessels ; but they are exceedingly
wet. There is a great air of comfort
and well-being amongst the people,
and all classes are celebrated for their
good looks.
The roadstead is not very safe, being
unprotected to the N. and W. The
river Nid, which surrounds great
part of the town, will not admit ves
sels drawing above 10 or 12 feet
water. This river is said to be rarely
frozen ; the cold here, from its proxi
mity to the sea, never being very in
tense.
Near the Custom-House (according
to the opinion of antiquaries) is the
spot where the ancient Ore-thing, or
asssmblage of the people, for this
part of Norway was held. Here above
20 kings of Norway have been pro
posed, accepted by the Thing, and
proclaimed. It is sacred ground for
a king ; and Bernadotte testified his
respect for it and for the historical
recollections of his subjects in 1835.
He stopped his carriage, got out, and
walked across the spot with his hat
off.Laing's Norway, p. 387.
On the E. the city is commanded
by a chain of hills, and on one of
them there is an old fortress of some
extent, which overlooks the town, but
is utterly inefficient for its protection.
The Environs. Opposite the city,
in the centre of the fjord, stands
the small island rock of Munhholm.
Canute the Great, a.d. 1028, founded
a monastery of Benedictines here,
the first of that order established
in Norway. A low round tower is
all that remains of it, and this is
within the walls of the fortress. It
was in a small gloomy chamber in
this tower that the Staatsminister of
Christian V. of Denmark, Graf von
Greiffenfeld, was immured from 1680
to 1698. He was originally Peter
Schumacher. Wagner's Handbook,
ENVIRONS.
Norway*
p. 60. This dungeon is no longer

shown, but it is said that he had
worn a deep channel in the pave
ment in walking up and down, and
indented the stone table where he had .
rested his hand in passing it. This
fortress has ceased to be used for
State prisoners. Great expense has
been incurred by the Government in
strengthening its defences; but it
appears extremely doubtful, in the
event of a war, whether it would be
sufficiently strong to withstand an
attack, or whether, owing to the
distance, the guns from its batteries
could be of much avail in protecting
the shipping or town. It is still the
dark solitary rock which Victor Hugo
has described in his " Hans of Ice
land," looking more like a prisonhouse than a fortress. Leave to visit
Munkholm must be obtained of the
commandant in Trondhjem. The Nor
wegian regalia are kept in the fortress.
Down the fjord, about 3 m. N.W.
of Trondhjem, a small river enters
the fjord near the Uddue station, in
the parish of Rissen. The salmonfishing there is good.
Three miles S. of the city the Nid
forms two beautiful falls, known as
Lierfossen. The perpendicular height
of the upper fall is 99 Eng. feet, and
its breadth, according to Dr. Clarke,
413 feet. The lower fall is about
1000 yards distant; its height 82 feet,
and breadth 122 feet. The upper
fall is the most picturesque. The
salmon-fishing near the lower fall
is said to be excellent. Close to the
falls are several furnaces for smelting
copper, sawing-mills, &c. Leave must
be obtained of the proprietor of these
works for fishing in the Nid.
From these falls a beautiful excur
sion may be made up the valley of
the Nid to the Selbo Lake, across it
from Teigen to Qvtello, and thence by
land to Stordal, on the Trondhjem
Fjord, and back to the city by land or
water. The total distance is about
12 m.
Norway,
route 87.to trokdhjem by ringeriget.
Charming excursions may also be

made by boat up the Trondhjem
Fjord, and also down it to the seacoast, where the wild-fowl shooting is
capital. In the large island of Hitteren, which lies upon the coast about
7 m. N.W. of Trondhjem, the deer
stalking is highly spoken of, as well
as the wild fowl and other shooting.
Permission must be obtained to shoot
there. The two modes of going to
Hitteren are by water down the fjord,
in boats from the water stations, or
by the steamers which regularly call
there ; or by the road, which is 10 m.
By water it is much farther.
Travellers going northwards, and in
tending to land on the coast for fish
ing or shooting, or for exploring the
country inland, should take with them
from Trondhjem such store of dried
provisions, wine, &c, as they may
require. A few wax candles in the
latter end of August or the begin
ning of September will be found a
great luxury. Of course, if not in
tending to leave the steamer, these
stores will not be wanted.
If going S. the road can be agree
ably varied by returning by the valley
of the Glommen (Route 31) ; or going
by land, Route 24, or water, Route
25, to Bergen, and from thence to
Christiania. Much time, expense,
and fatigue are saved by taking the
steamer to Bergen, instead of going
by land, but the scenery upon Route
24, between Molde and the Sogne
Fjord, is the most grand and pictu
resque in Norway, and all who can
afford the time should go that way.
It is only practicable for carrioles.
Provisions and small money should
not be forgotten, whichever route may
be taken.
Steamer to Bergen every Monday,
and to Hammerfest every Saturday,
except in winter. A small steamer
also plies from Trondhjem to Levanger
in the Trondhjem Fjord occasionally,
where Route 24 is joined. Days un
certain. Inquire at Trondhjem. See
253
Rtes. 24 and 25 for stations called at

on the way to the Namsen and Alten.
ROUTE 27.
CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM OVER
RIKQERIQET TO LLLLEHAMMER.
Distance 49| Norsk m., or 350
Eng.
For those who are not going to Ber
gen this is by far the best route to
take in going to Trondhjem, the
scenery being much finer than upon
either of the more direct roads. See
also preliminary observations to
Route 26.
From Christiania to + Grinagermarken, as in Route 21, distance
7| Norsk m., or about 55 English.
By this road Krogkleven near Sundvolden is passed, whence the beauti
ful view, mentioned in Route 21,
over Ringeriget is to be seen, and
also the lovely scenery of Rands Fjord
is visited.
At Grinagennarken our route se
parates from that to Bergen, and,
after a steep and long ascent across
the hills to the N.E., crosses the
head of the Eina Lake, near
Teterud, 14, pay for 2\. Soon
after leaving this station the descent
towards the Mib'sen Lake is com
menced near
Blilid, 1. Good road to
f Krosmmerbakken, 1, where Route
28 is joined.
From hence to Trondhjem as in
Route 28;dist. 38| N. m., or 267
Eng.
Route 28.
CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM OVER
HURDALEN ON THE WESTERN SIDE
OP THE MIOSEN LAKE.
Dist. 49| Norsk m., or 344 Eng.
See preliminary observations, Routes
26 and 29. Since the establishment
of the steamer on the Miosen Lake,
251
ROOTE 29.
CHRISTIANIA TO TBONDHJEM.
Norway*
this land route has been comparatively eftir Thoral aug munti stein eftir
little traversed during the summer dusi.
Thus translatedMidi in Vitaholm
months, it being more expensive, and
mourns his son Svartander in Vita
the road hilly and infamously bad.
Its chief attractions are the lovely holm. Egild erected this stone to
views it commands over the Mib"33n, Thoral, and this stone is in memory
and the pastoral scenery through of them.
The Hand Elv is crossed before
whieh it passes; together with the
trout and other fishing in the Mioseu reaching
t GjSviiji Yardal, 1|. From hence
and its tributaries.
From Christiania by road to Piro, a station-road leads into that between
Sf, as in Route 26, where the stations Christiania and Bergen, Route 21, at
are given ; but it is better to go by . the head of the Rands Fjord ; dist.
rail to Eidsvold, 6 m. From Eidsvold about 3 m.
From Gjovig the roads keeps close
the road turns to the westwards, and
the stage ends near the head of the along the Mioaen all the rest of the
way to Lillehammer. The Stok Elv
Hurdals Vand at
close to
Hammerm, 2. During the early is crossed
f Sveen, 1J. From hence along
part of the stage the road leads up the* valley
of the Stok to the W.
the valley of the Jfurdals Elv.
another road leads into Route 21, at
* GarsjS, g, pay for 1.
Eidsvold; dist. about If m.
+ Gronnen, If, pay for 1|. The
The Vismund Elv is crossed on the
Star Elv is crossed shortly before way from Sveen to
arriving at
+ Grylestiwn, \\. The road passes
+ Kr&mmerbaklcen, 1.
Here the head of the lake upon this stage,
Eoute 27 from Christiania joins our when the town of Lillehammer is
road. Near here is Sogstud, for seen across the stream. The road
merly the station, where there is continues up the valley of the Eogen
one of the most remarkable remains Elv for some distance. The Fare
of antiquity which Norway can boast Elv, which flows from the long range
of. It is an obelisk of fine sand of the Skjoslbro Fjtld on the N.W.
stone, and four ells in height, which ioto the Logen is then passed ; and
stands upon Alfitad Gaard, where, that river is soon after crossed by a
according to tradition, a king named long bridge. Then, turning S. down
Alf dwelt. Upon three sides are the river, about half a mile distant,
carved Runic characters, and the is
figures of four horses, upon one of
*+ Lillehammer, If. From hence
which is a rider. Over these horses to Trondhjem is the same as in Route
there is a fox, above that again a 26, in which see also observations as
flying eagle. Wormius read the Runic to the fishing to be had here, and
inscription thus :
scenery in the neighbourhood, &c.
Jurun raisti Stain dini eftir Evin
Venis hanna etha aug Gurdu af
Hrigariki vien Urula Eivia.
ROUTE 29.
Thus translatedJurun erected this
stone in memory of his friend Evind, CHRISTIANIA TO TROXDHJEM OVER
who was married to Cruri of RingeHEDEMARKEN ON TIIE EASTERN
rige. Evind's friend was Urula.
SI1>E OF THE M103EN LAKE.
On the other sideMidi i VitaDistance 49J Norsk m., or 350 Eng.
holm aug karde sun sini Svartander
i Vitaholm. Igli reisti stein dena See preliminary observations, and de
Norway.
ROUTE 30.CHRISTIANIA TO MOLDli.
scription of the Miasen Lake, fishing

+ Smestad, 1\.
there, &c, in Route 26, also Koute
+ Frengstuen, 1. About midway
28, as to the road on the W. side of on this stage a stream from the Mesne
the Miasen, "which equally apply to Vand is crossed, and soon afterwards
this route up to Lillehammer. Both the Christians District is entered.
these roads on the banks of the lake
* f Lillehammer, If. See Rte.
are infamously had ; so mueh so, that 26.
it is always best to take the Steamer.
If compelled to follow either, the
road on the western side of Mitisen,
ROUTE 30.
Koute 28, is better than this on the CHRISTIANIA TO MOLDE, AALESUND,
eastern bank.
AND CHRISTIANSUND, OVER THE
From Christiania by rail to EidsMI03EN LAKE, AND THROUGH GUDvold, 6 m., thence by steamer, or
BRANDSDALEN AND ROMSDALEN.
road to Minde, i, at the foot of the
Dist. 42 m. by land, and 10 by
Miosen Lake.
At Minde the Vormen, Elv is crossed water, together 52|, or 367 Eng.
by a ferry to the E. bank. The He- From Christiania to Dombaas, as in
demarken district is entered just Route 26. Dist., Christiania to Dom
baas 30 m. by land, and 9 by water.
previous to
The scenery from Dombaas to Molde
* f Morstu, 1\, hut pay for \\.
About 14 Eng. m. E. of this place a is amongst the grandest and most
vein of quartz, containing gold, was picturesque of any in Norway, parti
worked many years since, but finally cularly in Romsdalen, and the upper
abandoned, with considerable loss. part of the Romsdal Fjord. The
mountains are fine in outline, and the
Everest's Norway, p. 31.
whole route affords subjects of the
* Konodegaarden, \\, pay for
Here a road to the right turns off to best description for the landscapethe valley of the Glommen, Route 31. painter. The tributary streams, fall
Ours continues parallel with the lake ing into the Rauma, are very nume
rous ; their falls and cascades are
to
Noklebye, 1. Midway on this stage highly picturesque. In this land of
to the left a road leads to a ferry waterfalls those in Romsdalen rank
across the Baadsenden, an arm of the among the first for number andbeauty,
Miasen, on the other side of which although none of them are of any great
there is a road leading into this route, height. The salmon-fishing in the
near Smestad. The SvartEh is crossed, Rauma is good ; and the shooting is
and soon after a road to the S.E. also well spoken of. Reindeer and
turns off for the Glommen, and joins bears are found in the mountains,
Route 31, at Gaustad, 1 m. Our route and red deer in the islands off the
follows that road for a short distance. coast ; hares, winged game, and ducks
* *f* Frogner, 1\. From hence turn are abundant. Not being the most
ing back again, our route continues direct way to Trondhjem, this route
N. E., and soon crosses the Flagstad has been sadly neglected by tourists ;
Elv. From Frogner to Hamar on the but all who can spare the time will
Miosen is | m. There is also a be amply repaid in exploring its great
road hence to Sigstad on Route 31, beauties. Most of the farmers in
Romsdalen are substantial men, and
dist. 14 m.
t Bjerte, J. The Bremund Elv is the traveller will find no difficulty in
comfortably locating himself there,
crosssd during this stage.
f Fanyberget, 1. The Moe Elv is wherever he may desire. The stations,
with few exceptions, are good.
crossed shortly before arriving at
256
ROUTE 30.CHRISTIANIA TO MOLDE.
From Molde the grand Alpine

scenery upon the Stor Fjord can be
visited, and tourists can then proceed
by land to Trondhjem or Bergen, or
by the Steamer, which regularly calls
there on its way between those cities.
From Dombaas the road keeps along
the bank of the Logen Ely to the Lege
Vand. According to Forsell's, and
some other maps, it appears that the
Logan River flows from this lake on
the S.E., and the Rauma from the
N. E. , but from Keilhau's Amts Karter
it appears that the Lesje Vand is
541 feet lower than the Lesjevcerks
Vand (vid. infra), where the Rauma
was formerly supposed to have run a
course of 20 miles. The road keeps
along the N. side of the lake, which
abounds in trout during the rest of
this and the next stage.
* + Holager, j.
* t Holseth (or Holset), If. Here
a horse-track to the left leads to the
head of the Vaage Vand, and also to
the Justedal Glaciers and Sogne Fjeld
on the S.W. See Routes 21 and 38,
the latter of which turns off here.
Romsdalen begins at this station, and
its total length does not exceed 71 m.,
or about 56 Eng. The Rauma Elv
flows from the lake near here, and
the road keeps along the right bank
to
* t Lesje Jernvaerk, J. Here there
is an old iron mine. From hence the
road passes three small lakes, the last
of which, the Lesjevarks Vand, is
2078 feet above the sea.
f Molmen, 1J. A short distance
from hence a horse-track turns off on
the S., and joins that from Holseth.
On this stage the scenery becomes
more wild and picturesque.
The Stor Fjord. Before coming to
the next station another horse-path
on the left runs to the Stor Fjord, on
the road to Aalesund. The scenery
of the snow-clad range of the Lang
Fjeld mountains upon the Stor Fjord
is but little known at present. It is
of the grandest description. The out
Norway.
line of the mountains is more pictu

resque than in most other parts of
Norway, and full of variety. The Stor
Fjord, and its numerous tributary
streams, possess equal attractions for
the sportsman and the angler, as well
as the artist.
* t Nystuen, 1. The range of the
BrSsle Fjeld now begins on the left,
and from hence the road rapidly de
scends; the scenery increasing in
grandeur and picturesque outline, and
the Rauma still foaming along its
rocky bed, close on the left all the way.
* t Ormen, 1. (In going from
hence to Nystuen pay for 1^.) Ex
cellent quarters for salmon-fishing.
The river makes a picturesque fall
here, beyond which the salmon cannot
pass.
f Fladmark, 1. On this stage
the river flows tranquilly.
+ Jlorjem, 1. The scenery be
comes particularly grand; the road
winds between two enormous moun
tains, ItomsdaU-hom, 2188 feet high
on the N., and Troldtinderne (Witch
Peaks) on the S.
* + Veblungsnceset, \\. A capital
place for head-quarters, while fishing,
shooting, and sketching up this splen
did stream and valley, which end
here. Three bears were killed in one
day by a farmer near this in June,
1847. The Rauma falls into the Sis
Fjord, a branch of Romsdal Fjord,
close to this station. Near here is
likewise the farm where Col. Sinclair
landed with his regiment, previous to
their slaughter in Gudbrandsdalen.
See Solheim, Route 26.
The Route to Aalesund turns off
here. It proceeds by water down
the fjord, where it joins the high road
between Aalesund and Molde. Dist.
from hence (Veblungsnceset) to Aale
sund, 8f m. The stages are, Vestnces, by water, 3 ; Ellingsgaard, by
land, 1; Soholdt, by land, \\ ; Sorte,
part water, 1J ; Roseth, \ \ ; Aale
sund, part water, 1J. For descripsion of this town, see Route 24.
Norway.
boute 30.through eojisdalen.
Movie to Molde continued.From

hence to Molde there are two ways
down the fjord (the scenery upon which
is sublime), by boat, to Nedre Vaage,
H, and Molde, 2. This is likewise
the nearest way. From 7 to 10 hours
are requisite, according to the wind
and weather. The other road is
partly by land, as follows :The Isse
Fjord is crossed to
+ Torvig, f. From hence by land
along the E. bank of the Rodven
Fjord, a small brance of the Lang
Fjord to
fAlfarnoss, 1J. Here the head of
the fjord is crossed to Sb'llesnces ; or
a boat can be taken direct to Molde,
2 m.
Sbllesnces, f. Hence by land to
Dvoemoes, f. Here the Fanne
Fjord, a branch of the Molde, is
crossed, and the high road between
Molde and Christiansund (Route 24)
is entered at Strande ; or a boat can
be taken direct from Dvoernoes to
Molde, 1.
Strande, J. From hence the way
is by land to Molde.
The Road to Christiansund turns
off here. Distance 5 m. The stages
are, Eide, 1 ; Fursoeth, J ; Gimnces,
If ; Torvig, f. Thence by water to
Fladsat, | ; Bolgen, by land, J. By
water to Chkistiansbnd, J. For the
description of this town, see Routes
24 and 25.
Route to Molde continued. Road
close along the Molde Fjord all the
way, commanding splendid views of
the distant mountains of the Lang
Fjeld.
* Molde, 1. Population about
1200. This town is built upon a
promontory on the N. side of the
Molde Fjord, near its junction with
the sea. It consists of one long
straggling street along the banks of
the fjord. There are several hand
some villas in the neighbourhood, and
the environs are with justice consi
dered among the most picturesque and
beautiful in Norway.
257
"Molde commands a view of the

snowy Alps that line the whole of its
S. side, and are the N. W. boundary of
the Dovre Fjeld. I do not remember
such a long-extended range of peaks
and pinnacles and shattered ridges,
except, perhaps,* in the Loffodens.
And here one rank peeps out from
behind another until they are lost in
the distance, and, as they mix with
the white clouds, we fancy them like
hanging cities or castles in the air.
Among them Romsdal's horn appears
conspicuous." Everest's Norway,
p. 208.
The little trade which exists at
Molde is chiefly confined to fish.
The Steamers call here regularly
every week in passing up and down
the coast. It is a convenient place
from whence to make an excursion to
the magnificent scenery upon the
upper parts of the Stor Fjord, and
forming part of Lang Fjeld.
For stations and distances be
tween Molde and the towns N. and S.
of it on the coast, see Routes 24
and 25.
The fjords about here abound in
wild fowl, including the eider-duck,
which is found all along this coast.
The habits of this bird are interest
ing. The nest is made on the ground,
composed of marine plants, and lined
with down of exquisite fineness, which
the female plucks from her own body.
The eggs are usually 4, of a pale
olive-green. They allow their nests
to be robbed of the eggs and down
three times ; after that, if further
molested, the birds desert the place.
So avaricious of progeny is this duck,
that, when plundered of her own,
she will sometimes steal the eggs and
young of others. When the female
has stripped herself of all her down,
the male comes in aidhis is white.
In the Storthing of 1847, a law was
passed for the protection of game,
wild fowl, &c, and since then the
islands along this coast frequented by
these ducks have become a valuable
258
boute 31.cintisxiANiA to trondhjem.
property. Each nest during the

breeding season produces about 4 lb.
f do-wn, but which, when picked and
eleoned, is reduced to J. So firm and
elastic is this beautiful down, that
the same quantity which, can be com
pressed between the two hands will
erve to stuff a quilt or coverlet, and
while itsweight is scarcely perceptible,
it has more warmth than the finest
blanket.
ROUTE 31.
CHRISTIAHIA TO TRONDHJEM OYEB
OSTERDALEN, UP THE VALLEY OF
THE GL0MMEK, AHD THROUGH
BORAAS.
Dist. 47f Norsk m., or 333 Eng.
See preliminary observations to Routes
26 and 32. The scenery upon this
route is not so interesting as that over
the Dovre Fjeld, and is therefore
seldom traversed by those who are
unacquainted with the latter route.
But the valley of the Glommen, with
its vast pine forests, and picturesque
falls and cataracts, is very fine ; and
the trout and other fish in the river and
its numerous tributaries are highly
spoken of. The fall near Frederikstad
prevents any salmon getting higher
up the Glommen. There is no salmonfishing to be had upon this route,
until after passing Rixraas and arriv
ing at the Gula River ; the best is
about Rogstad, near where this route
joins that over the Dovre Fjeld.
Some of the finest description, as
well as the largest quantity, of pine
timber exported from Norway, and
that chiefly cut up into deals, is pro
duced on the banks of the Glommen
and its tributaries. In the spring
the logs are floated down to the saw
mills at the falls of the Glommen
near Frederikstad. The deer-shooting
to be had in the autumn upon this
route is said to be excellent ; the best
is about Foldal, towards the Dovre
Norway,
Fjeld, and the other northern parts

of the bailiwick of OiterdaLen. Elk
are at times met with there, though
very rarely, and then, chiefly towards
the borders of Sweden. Bears and
wolves are frequently killed in the
wild district on the E. side of the
Stor Sii. Ptarmigan and hares are
abundant in parts of 0.iterdalen.
The country is very wild, and thinly
inhabited. The E. side of the whole
of the upper part of the Glommen,
and from thence to the Klar and Dal
Rivers in Sweden, comprises, one of
the finest sporting districts in both
countries. See also Route 62, as to
the countiy between the Klar and W.
Dal.
'
;
From Christiania to Minde, .or
Eidsvold, as in Route 26 ; and from
Minde to Korsodegaarden, as ia
Route 29. Here our road, separating
from that to Lillehammer, keeps
nearly due N. to
* t Oamstad, lj. Close here a
fine tributary to the Mio3en, the Svart
Elv, is crossed, and soon after our
route joins that from Lillehammer to
the Glommen. Turn to the E. and
cross a branch of the last stream.
* Sigstad, 1. Hence a road turns
eastwards to Frogner, 14, on Route
29, connecting Hamar on the Miosen
with 03terdalen. About midway on
this stage a small lake is passed
on the S., and soon afterwards the
valley of the Glommen is entered,
where a road crosses ours ; that to
the S. leads down the right bank of
the river, ours turns up the stream
to the N. Near here also the Kougsvinger road crosses the Glommen and
joins ours. This part of the valley
is about 770 feet above the level of
the sea.
* + Grundsait, If. The journey
may be agreeably varied in going
from Trondhjem to Christiania, by
keeping down the valley of the Glom
men through Kongsvinger. There i3
a road on each side of the river. The
stations on the east bank from Gruad
Nanwy.
eoute 31.theough eoraas.
seet areto + Bcekkevold, J; + Overby,

2J ; Melby, 1J; + Austad, \ ; fllaug,
lj ; Nor i Brandvold, 1 ; tlience
crossing Gjb'lstad Sund to Nordre
Rolstad, 1^; f Kongsvinger, |. The
stations on the W. bank are
Grundscet to Berger i Elverum, 1 ;
Braskerud, 1; Oengen, 14 ; Lovaasen, J ; Holmrydningen, J ; Nces,
; Nordre Kolstad, lj ; + Kongs
vinger, J. Thence to Christiania, see
Route 32. But to continue. From
Grundscet the grand part of the
Glommen valley commencesthe road
keeps along the foot of a steep range
of mountains on the W., until it
enters the fine valley of the Austa,
which stream is crossed near
f Bjornstad, If. Upon this stage
the lieen Elv, from the Stor So,
enters the Glommen on the E.
+ Sorisnces, lj. This station is a
sort of general shop, a thing rarely
to be met with in Norway. The
Haft Elv is crossed before reaching
"I" Opkimstuen, 2. This station is on
the E. bank of the river. Travellers
who are obliged to sleep here gene
rally leave their carrioles at a small
hut, where the horses are changed,
and are then ferried over to the sta
tion. It is a particularly bad station.
Four torrents are crossed on this
stage, and the Imne Elv near
Mo'debye, 1A.. This station is
changed every year with a place called
Messelt : see the Lomme Reiseroute
for the latest change. A horse-track
leads hence through the mountains to
the W., and enters Gudbrandsdal
near Losnces, Route 26. Between
Moklebye and the next station, upon
the E. bank of the Stor So, there re
sides a hunter, whose services the
sportsman would do well to secure, as
deer, and sometimes elk and bear,
are to be met with on that side of the
lake. It is, indeed, one of the finest
sporting districts in Norway.
* Veatgaard, 1. Here our route
crosses the Glommen to the left bank,
and leaving that river, a very long
and hilly stage across the mountains

is commenced, great part of which is
along the left bank of the Stor So.
There are two arms of the Glommen.
to be crossed ; one ferry is an opera
tion of some difficulty, when the
river is full. The Glommen is left
here, and not seen again till Neby.
It is a capital station. Where the road
crosses the river at Yestgaard, a horseroad leads up the left bank to Stein,
at the entrance of Steindalen, from
whence a road joins our route higher
up at Neby. By this way 40 Eng.
m. of the Glommen may be explored,
which are not seen upon the direct
route.
Akre, 2f, but pay for 4. This
stage is also very hillyroad all the.
way up the valley of the liena Elv.
j" Berysmt, lj, pay for 24. In
different accommodation. The road
hence lies through a dense pine forest
for 20 Eng. miles, in which hardly a
human being is met with. The soli
tude is very striking. A fine moun
tain, called "Bellingen," is seen at
intervals on the left. Ryper plentiful
about Engen. Here a horse-path
leads W. to the Glommen, where it
separates, and to the N. leads to the
Dovre Fjeld ; to the S. it cuts another
track to Gudbrandsdalen, which it
enters near Oien. The ascent is very
long and steep, up the valley of the
Itena, which is twice crossed on the
way to
Engen, 3, but pay for i\. The as
cent still continues on this stagethe
Rena is again crossed, the fine moun
tains of the Trons Fjeld, 5761 feet,
are passed close on the W., and the
valley of the Glommen is again en
tered, and the river crossed at
* Neby, 1A, but pay for 2. Here
a station-road runs S. down the
right bank of the Glommen to Foldalen, and so to Jerkin, on the Dovra
Fjeld, 8A, m. The stations areto
Gjelten, 2 ; Grimsbo, 3 ; Husum i
Ovre Foldalen, 1A ; Jerkin, 2. Route
32 also turns off here.
260
route 81.christiania to trondhjem.
A new Station-Road to Trondhjem

has recently been made, which, com
mencing a short distance on the S.W.
of Neby, runs up the valley of the
Tonden Elv, crosses the mountains,
and descends by the valley of the
Orhla Elv, until it enters Route 26,
near the Garlid Station. The stages
at present arefrom Neby to Lundsoeter, 14; Stoen, 2, pay for 2f ; Moen,
\\; Noeverdal, 1 ; and Garlid, 1\ :
in all, 10J m. It is expected that this
road will be more frequented by the
Norwegians than any other between
Christiania and Trondhjem.
In going from Trondhjem to Chris
tiania, those desirous of seeing as
much as possible of the Glommen may
keep that river in sight nearly all the
way, by going from Neby to Stein, and
thence taking the horse-road which
leads down the valley and joins our
route again at Vestgaard. See
Route 32 for stations on the above
road.
From Neby to Roraas our route
continues through grand mountain
scenery up the valley of the Glommen.
The costume of the peasants becomes
picturesque. In the Glommen, as
well as the Tornea and other rivers,
the fish are speared by torchlight, as
in Scotland. ' ' Few objects are more
exciting to the lover of field-sports, or
more interesting to the admirer of
the picturesque, than the rugged
banks of a mountain torrent lit up
by gleaming torches, whilst the foam
ing stream glitters and sparkles as it
bursts amid the rocks here and there
at intervals, every object standing
out prominently in a blaze of light,
whilst at other points of the stream
everything is shrouded in the blackest
darkness, the whole forming a scene
to which no painter that ever lived
could render justice." Milford's
Norway, p. 280.
Tplgen, 1J.
Os i Tolgen, 1|.
* Roraas, If. This town contains
about 3000 inhabitants. It owes its
Norway.
existence solely to the extensive copper

mines in the neighbourhood, which
were discovered in 1645, and have,
with few intervals, been worked to a
profit ever since.
The annual produce of these mines
has occasionally been as high as 4000
skippunds, 600 to 700 tons ; at pre
sent it rarely exceeds 250 tons.
The mines are well worthy of a
visit, and although sunk to a depth of
from 200 to 300 fathoms, the work
ings are nearly all carried on in the
direction of the lode, or bed of ore,
which seldom inclines above 15 from
the horizontal, so that you can, in most
cases, walk to the bottom ; in fact,
unlike the generality of mines, horses
and carts are employed to bring the
ore to the surface, or at least to the
short perpendicular shafts, by which it
is conveyed up.
There are no manufactories, nor is
agriculture carried on to any extent in
the neighbourhood. The inhabitants
are supported solely by the traffic
created by the mines.
This town is situated about 3000
feet above the level of the sea ; it is
consequently one of the coldest dis
tricts in Norway, the mercury, during
the winter, being frequently frozen.
In the neighbourhood of Roraas,
the traveller will most probably have
an opportunity of seeing some of the
Laplanders with their deer. There
is much to interest and amuse in
their peculiar habits and mode of
life.
From Roraas to the Oresund Lake
on the N. E. the Glommen becomes a
mountain torrent, forming numerous
waterfalls, which, though not large,
are many of them highly picturesque.
Some way from Roraas the Glom
men is crossed for the last time, and
the ascent continues as the road
winds away to the N. from the
valley of the Glommen. The summit
level of the mountains is attained
near
Ryen, If, pay for 2. A pic
Norway.
koute 33.through kongsyinger.
turesque little station, tut the people

very poor, and the house dirty. It is
about 4000 feet above the sea. The
only trees near are birch. This is a
very thinly populated district, and
a very peculiar dialect is spoken.
The small lake passed on the W. ,
before arriving at this station, is the
source of the Gula Elv, and along
the picturesque valley of this stream
the road now descends, winding along
it for the greater part of the way to
Trondhjem. Numerous tributaries of
this fine river are passed.
Hw, 1J, pay for \\.
- * OrSdt, \\.
Langledet, 1.
Kirhvold, 1 1. The Gula is crossed to
the left bank after leaving Kirkvold.
* Bogen, 1.
* Bogstad, 1. About here the
mlmon-fishing is well spoken of. On
leaving this station the Gula Elv is
crossed, and the Dovre Fjeld road is
joined soon after.
Vollum (or Vollan), 1J. From
hence to Trondhjem is the same as
Route 26 : dist. 3.
ROUTE 32.
CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM THROUGH
KONGSVINGER, AND UP THE VALLEY
Of THE GLOMMEN.
Distance 54 Norsk m., or 378 Eng.
This route is not to be recommended
to those who are unacquainted with
the far grander beauties of the
Dovre Fjeld road, Route 26. The
Glommen is the finest river in Nor
way. By this route, about 300 Eng.
m. of this splendid stream may be
explored, the road keeping close by it,
more or less, the whole distance.
The falls and cataracts of the Glom
men, and its many beautiful tributa
ries, are numerous, and the scenery
increases in grandeur towards the N.
There is ample occupation for the
sportsman, the angler, and the artist.
261
Nowhere can the pine forests of Nor

way be seen to greater perfection than
upon this route ; but for travellers
pressed for time, Route 35, as far as
Kongsvinger, is recommended.
As this road is in some parts of it
not much traversed, inferior accom
modation at the stations must be ex
pected. It should not be attempted
with any carriage but a carriole.
Replenish the provision-basket when
ever the opportunity occurs.
From Christiania our road keeps
due E. to
Sorlid,
Upon this stage a
part of the Oyeren Ss is crossed by a
ferry near
Garder, 1J. Here the valley of
the Glommen is entered near its
junction with the lake. From hence
the road keeps to the N. , up the
right bank of the river during the
early part of the stage to
Norlid, 2. This place is some dis
tance from the Glommen. From
here our road turns E. till it joins
the river again, and then keeps up
the right bank to
Berg, 2|.
Henoug, 1. The Vormen Biter,
from the Miiisen Lake, flows near
this station, and falls into the Glom
men, a little to the E. Trout-fishing
excellent. Here also our route enters
the high road from Christiania to
Kongsvinger. Crossing the Vormen,
and passing a road on the left to the
Miosen, the right bank of the Glom
men is kept to
+ Opaker, 1J. Upon this stage
the Ous Elv is crossed near its junc
tion with the Glommen.
* + Ous, If.
+ Sundbye, f.
* Kongsvinger, 1J. See descrip
tion, Route 35. Our road crosses the
river at this town, and then keeps N.
up the left bank to
Nordre-Bolstad, f.
Noes i Grue, 1J.
Holmrydningen, 1 J.
Eovaasen i Hof, $.
KOUTE 33.TRONDHJEM TO STOCKHOLM.

Oenr/en, f.
Brashervd, 1|.
Berber i Elverum, 1. Various
horse-tracks branch off from these sta
tions over the mountains to the Klar
Elv in Sweden, passing through a
fine sporting district. See also Route
81. Shortly after passing the village
of Elveruin on this stage, the route
divides in 3 directions. To the E. a
by-road crosses the mountains to
Trysil, on the Klar Elv, llf m. dist.
That to the N. leads up the E. side
of the Glommen. And the third,
which is our route, crosses the river
and immediately turns N., up the
right hank to the next station,
shortly before which the high road
from Christiania to Trondhjein is
entered.
* Grtmdsoet, \\. From hence to
Vestgaard is the same as in Route
31 ; dist. 7J. On crossing the river
at Vestgaard our route separates, and
by a by-road keeps along the left
bank of the Glommen to
Jfanestad, 4. Near here, on cross
ing a small torrent, a by-road leads
N.E. and joins Route 31 at Bergsoet, 1^ m.
Stein, 4. Trout-fishing excellent
about here, and the deer and general
shooting well spoken of. From hence
a station road leads up Steindalen to
that most excellent station, Jerkin,
on the Dovre Fjeld (see Route 26).
Dist. 6J.
Crossing the Glommen here, and
keeping up the right bank, the Tronfjeld, 5761 feet high, is seen on the
E. Shortly before arriving at the
next station, the new road to Trond
hjem, up the valley of the Tonden
Elv, is passed on the left, see Route
31 ; and which route our road joins
again at
Neby, 2. From hence to Trond
hjem as in Route 31 ; distance 14J.
NoilfaiJ.
ROUTE 33.
TKONDHJEM TO STOCKHOLM, THROUGH
V03RDAL AMD StTKDSTALL.
Dist. 90 Norsk m., or 610 Eng.
This route is quite practicable for
ladies. Passports must be visS by a
Swedish Minister or Consul before
entering the country. If they be
not, then a Swedish passport must
be taken at Stockholm, for which
about 3| rix dollars are paid, but the
bearer is entitled to the passport
under which he entered Sweden. It
is also most advisable to obtain a
good supply of Swedish small money,
and if in paper it will be more readily
taken than silver. Many of the sta
tions are good, but a small stock of
provisions should always be taken.
This road, which connects Trond
hjem and the capital of Sweden, has
been completed for some years ; for
merly it was impossible to get across
to Sweden except on horseback, now
there is a capital road, and very tole
rable accommodation is to be met
with the whole way. The distance
from Trondhjem to Sundsvall, the
nearest point of the Gulf of Bothnia,
is about 350 English miles, of which
at least 60 run along the shore of the
Trondhjem Fjord, nearly due north
as far as Vcerdal, from whence the
road strikes directly across Sweden,
pursuing with but little variation a
south-easterly course until it reaches
the Gulf of Bothnia at Sundsvall.
The road formerly was steep and la
borious, except where it made a con
siderable detour towards Voerdal ; but
of late years it has been greatly im
proved, and is now as good as any in
Norway.
From Trondhjem to Hove, as in
Route 24 ; dist. 6| m.
Upon the next stage it is not ne
cessary for the traveller to stop at
Levanger, as the regular station,
Tynces, is situated ahout \ of a
Norway,
route 33.through vojrdal and sundsvall. 263
mile beyond that town, which is

passed close upon the left shortly be
fore arriving at
Tynws, 1. From hence to Vcerdalen is about half a mile. The country
is much better here than in the im
mediate neighbourhood of Trondhjem, the soil superior, and the
barren headlands of primary rock
running into the fjord not so nume
rous, steep, or rugged. Cultivation
extends back into the country as far
as the eye can reach, and is not con
fined to the hollows and skirts of
high ground, but spreads over hill
and dale. One of the most curious
facts is the successful cultivation of
the hop plant in this district. ' ' I
found a small hop garden even on
this farm (near Levanger), and the
crop apparently was excellent. It is
singular that a plant, which is so de
licate and precarious in the south of
England, and requires the most ex
pensive culture, should flourish here
in lat. 64 with very little attention
paid to it."Labig's Norway, p. 84.
On entering Vcerdal the road turns
suddenly to the S.E. , making quite
an acute angle with its former direc
tion, and here opens one of the most
beautiful valleys in all Norway,
through which the road runs as far
as Indal. '* I do not know in Scot
land so beautiful a valley as this of
Vcerdalthe crops of grain so rich
and yellowthe houses so substantial
and thickly setfarm after farm
without interruption, each fully in
closed and subdivided with paling
the grass fields of so lively a green,
as free from weeds and rubbish, and
as neatly shorn, as a lawn before a
gentleman's windows, every knoll,
and all the background covered with
trees, and a noble clear river running
briskly through it. There is a reach
or two of Nithsdale which on a small
scale resembles this valley, but the
oft, living green of the natural grass
does not belong to, or is not long re
tained by, our sown grass-fields. I
find that all these beautiful little

farms with the substantial hoiises,
and that air of plenty and complete
ness about them which struck me so
much on my way up this valley, are
the Cdal estates and residences of
the peasant proprietors, or bonder.
This class of bonder are the most in
teresting people in Norway. There
are none similar to them in the feudal
countries of Europe."Zaing, p. 92.
* Nces, \\. From hence a road
leads across the Vcera River to tie
village of Stiklestad, J m. distant,
which is celebrated as being the spot
where St. Olaf was slain. The church
there is also very old and interesting,
see Route 24. The salmon-fishing
near here is indifferent. The river
has clay banks, which after rain cause
the water to come down a muddywhite colour. There is some good
trout-fishing in some of the tributa
ries.
From Nces the road keeps up the
S. side of the valley, near the Vcera
River, great part of the way, and
crosses a fine tributary to it shortly
before arriving at
Garncps, 1. Here a station-road
runs to the N.W., and joins the coast
road, Route 24, between the Rbske
and Steenkjcer Station, about 4 m.
distant.
During this stage the road twice
crosses the river, and by a very steep
ascent winds up to the head of the
valley at
Svrul, H, pay for 3. From hence
the ascent continues through grand
mountain scenery to Kongstuen, where
the summit level of the mountains is
attained, and horses are baited before
finishing the stage. A short distance
beyond this the Swedish Frontier is
crossed ; the descent on the E. side
of the mountain commences, and the
next station is reached at
* Skalstmgen, 2. Good quarters.
This is in Sweden. For some dis
tance beyond this place there is little
of interest in the scenery. The gene
261
route 34.alten to torsea.
ral shooting is good. Ptarmigan are

said to be particularly abundant.
The scenery, with but little excep
tion, from the Swedish frontier to
Stockholm, is of a less grand cha
racter than upon the Norwegian side.
For the rest of the Stations in Swe
den, and Steamers from the towns
upon the coast, see Route 64.
ROUTE 34.
alten to tornea and haparanda
(at the head op the gulp op
Bothnia), across the mountains.
Dist. 63| Norsk and Swed. m., or
430 Eng. In winter, when the snow
is in a good state for sledging, this
journey is usually performed in 6 or
7 days. In summer it takes longer.
From Tornea and Haparanda the
route can be continued along the E.
side of the Gulf of Bothnia to St.
Petersburg, or along the W. side to
Stockholm, Route 65.
Tornea and Haparanda lie nearly
due S. of Alten. There is no road
until the yalley of the Tornea (River
is entered ; previously to that it is a
mere horse-track across the moun
tains, but the stations are arranged
as in the S. provinces, the whole way
from Alten to Tornea.
A supply of provisions must be
taken upon this route ; and, if pos
sible, some Swedish money should be
obtained at Alten. Care should be
taken to have a Russian vise" to the
passport, before entering the terri
tory of the Emperor. For Sweden it
is not so essential, the rule there
being, that if a traveller enters the
country without a Swedish vise on
his passport, he must take a new
one, for which about 3| rix dollars
(4s. Eng.) must be paid ; but the
bearer is entitled to have returned to
him the passport under which he en
tered Sweden.
In Winter
this route is much frequented, par
Norway.
ticularly during the fair at Alten, in

the latter end of November. It can
then easily be traversed in sledges.
At that season the journey, as far as
Muonioniska, is performed in a pulk,
drawn by one reindeer. From Muo
nioniska to Tornea with horses and
sleighs.
The charge for a reindeer from
Alten to Kautokeino is 4 orts, or 96
skillings, and from Kautokeino to
Niska the same sum. Each tra
veller generally hires 3 reindeer ; 1
for himself, 1 for his luggage, and 1
to relieve the other 2. He must also
hire 1 for his guide, to whom 4 orts
are also to be paid.
It is essential to be provided with
the warmest clothing. The best plan
is to adopt the dress of the Lap
lander, which consists of a good
warm cap, and, over the ordinary
clothes, a poesk or coat of reindeer
skin. This is a large loose garment
reaching from the neck to below the
knees, and belted round the waist by
a leathern girdle ; the lower parts of
the dress are called boellinger, which
are leggings, and reach from the ankle
high up the thigh ; they are somewhat
in the form of spatterdashes, but with
this difference, that they are whole,
not having buttons at the sides, but
being fastened at the top by a run
ning string that tightens them, and
covered at the bottom by the skalkomager, or shoe of reindeer skin,
which is confined by a long narrow
band, going several times round the
ankle, keeping the whole tight to
gether, and preventing the possibility
of any snow getting in. These shoes
are well stuffed with soft dry grass
(Oarex sylvatica) called senne ; and
over a pair of good worsted gloves
are worn reindeer mittens, also
stuffed with dried grass. No other
kind of dress can supply the place of
this, which is admirably adapted
from its material and make to enable
the wearer to sustain the severity of
the climate. The reindeer skins are
Norway.
eoute 34.across the mountains.
worn with the hair outwards, and

from the peculiar closeness and thick
ness of their texture, it is impossible
for the cold to penetrate them. Every
article of clothing which is tight, and
liable to occasion numbness by press
ing against the skin and impeding
the circulation of the blood, should
be avoided. The sleeves of the poesk
are in general so large, that the arms
are easily drawn out and replaced in
them without the garment being
taken off.
The puUc, or sledge, in which the
traveller is conveyed, in form some
what resembles a canoe with the stern
cut off. It is 5 feet in length, about
16 inches broad, and 8 deep, the
back board being about twice that
height. The head of the pulk comes
to a sharp point, the stern is flat, in
order that it may be leant against
conveniently, and the bottom is con
vex ; it has an oval half-deck in
front, covered with seal skin, to pre
vent the snow being driven in. To this
pulk only one deer can be attached.
The harness consists of a collar of
reindeer skin ; to the lower point of
this collar a single trace of strong
leather is attached, which passes be
tween the legs of the deer, and is fast
ened by a small transverse piece of
wood to an iron ring at the front of
the pulk. Bound the body of the
'deer is a broad belly-band of coloured
cloth, through which the trace passes.
Bound the neck is a broad loose band
or collar of cloth, to which is sus
pended a bell, the sound of which
enables the different members of a
party to keep together. The head
stall is merely a strip of seal skin
fastened round the head of the deer,
and tied in a knot under its left ear ;
to this knot the rein or bridle is fast
ened, which is likewise only a strip
of seal skin.
As soon as the traveller is seated
the deer sets off at full speed. The
rein is held in the right hand, being
sometimes fastened round the wrist
265
by a slip knot, but more usually it ia

wound once or twice round the hand
to keep it firm. From the knot
being tied under the left ear, the
side on which the rein would con
sequently hang is the left ; but it is
necessary that it should always be on
the right, to enable the driver more
readily to strike the animal on the
flank when he wishes to increase its
speed, as also to swing it suddenly
round on the left side to cause the
deer to stop. There is some knack
required to keep the rein on the right
side, as it is continually getting over
to the other. The difficulty of pre
serving the pulk upright is at first
very great, and it is only by exactly
balancing his body that the traveller
can keep it in an upright position.
An inexperienced person will in
evitably be rolled over, not merely
once or twice, but several times ; but
on account of the lowness of the
vehicle no bad consequences are likely
to ensue. If the pulk were con
structed upon any other principle, it
would scarcely answer the purpose ;
the nature of the country, and the
snow through which it has frequently
to plough its way, require that the
bottom of the pulk should be like
that of a canoe ; were it broader, the
inequalities of the ground it passes
over, the depth of the snow, and the
steepness of the ascents, would ren
der it impossible for the animal to
drag it.
In Summer
this route is also interesting. The
scenery for a considerable distance
on the Norwegian side is very grand.
The naturalist will find abundant
occupation in the botany, geology,
and mineralogy of the varied districts
traversed. Bears are by no means
rare on the Norwegian side ; and in
the upper parts of the mountains wild
reindeer are sometimes met with, but
from the number of tame deer, which
now feed on this Fjeld in the sum
ROUTE 84.
ALTEN TO TOEKEA.
mer, and which drive the wild ones,

not bo frequently as former^. Ducks
and plover are plentiful about the
end of August, but not later than
September, when they are frozen out,
and migrate southwards and west
wards. But few ryper (wood-grouse)
are- to be found, as the route for the
most part is at a greater elevation
than the scrub grows, which these
birds frequent. Neither will the tra
veller have much time to diverge
right or left from the track in pur
suit of them, as it is necessary to
get from one Fjeldntuea to the next
before night closes in. Trout are
plentiful in the small lakes and
streams; and salmon tn the Muonio and Tornea Rivers ; in the upper
parts of which these fish are chiefly
speared by torchlight. It is said
that salmon in these rivers, and in
deed in all those which flow into
the Gulf of Bothnia, will not rise at a
fly. It is doubtful what is the cause
of this. It has been stated, that
they are a different species of sal
mon, but the 'more probable expla
nation seems to be, that the Gulf of
Bothnia and the Baltic contain so
much fresh water, that the salmon
never reach the sea, and consequently
are never in such good condition, or
so hungry for a fly, as those on the
W. coast of Norway. Their flesh,
when cooked, is certainly much
whiter. The journey is fatiguing ;
but gentlemen need not fear taking
it, as it was accomplished a few years
since by an elegant Parisienne in re
turning to France with her husband
from a tour they had made to Spitzbergen !
After the first 2 or 3 m., through
out the entire distance from Alten to
Kautokeino, there is not a single in
habited house, but here and there
some Lapland tents may be met with,
as all the mountain Laplanders are
Nomades ; there are, however, cha
lets or huts, erected at the public
expense for the accommodation of
Norway.
travellers; and though the interior

merely contains a rough bench, and
a square hearth, with an aperture in
the roof for the egress of the smoke,
the traveller, after the fatigues of
the day's journey, hails them with
gratitude.
The first stage from Alten to Kau
tokeino is 16 Norsk m., or 112 Eng.,
and can only be traversed on foot or
horseback. For horses an agreement
must be made before starting. The
luggage taken should be as little as
possible, and will be most readily
carried in saddle-bags. The river is
navigable for about 4 m. from its
mouth ; and from Alten, for some
distance towards Kautokeino, there
are two horse-tracks, one of which
keeps up the grand valley of the Al
ten, and follows the winding of the
river until it joins our route, which
is the more direct and usual one, and
keeps to the W. of the Alten. It
was this latter track which Von Buch
followed, whose description of it is
most interesting ; and according to
which, during about the first 20 hours
from Alten, the way is very steep
and mountainous, the fir and other
trees become gradually stunted, and
the birch at length is alone seen at
about 898 feet above the sea. The as
cent then becomes less rapid, a large
tract of dreary levels is passed, and at
their termination the last glimpse of
the sea near Alten is obtained. The
ascent then continues again, until a
vast table-land, abounding in rein
deer moss, is attained ; the highest
part of which is Nuppi Vara, 2655
feet above the sea. This hill com
mands a most extensive view. To
the N. , the snowy chain of the Lytigen is seen, while beneath and around
extends a dreary waste, with nume
rous small lakes. To the S. it is
level, and of immense extent. Here
Laplanders, with their herds of rein- *
deer, may usually be met with in
summer. About 2 m. before the
end of this stage a descent is com-
Norway.
ROUTE 84.
ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS.
menced, and the deep and rapid Siaberdasjock, which ia the principal
source of the Alten River, is crossed,
shortly before arriving at Kautokeino.
Perhaps a less fatiguing and more
interesting way is to ascend the Alten
Eiver in boats,, for about 4 m. from
its mouth, having previously ar
ranged to have horses in waiting at
the hut, where the track diverges
from the river ; thence, to cross the
mountains to another point of the
Alten River, where boats from Kau
tokeino should have been ordered be
forehand to meet the travellers. This
can be done by writing from Alten
some days before starting. Informa
tion of the days when the mountain
post goes would be furnished at Bosekop. This plan was followed by a
party in the summer of 1854. We
have been favoured with some notes
of the route, which we shall insert.
"Aug. 26. We left Alten in the
evening in two boats, and were poled
np the river to a small house on the
W. bank, about 4 m. from the
mouth, accompanied so far by some
friends to see us off. We were joined
here by a Norwegian gentleman, who
was returning to Kautokeino. This
house, in which we slept, is about 20
feet long by 14 wide. It is divided
into two rooms. In the outer one,
about 14 feet by 8, 11 adult men,
1 woman, 1 child, and a baby, slept.
The next morning we started about
7 a.m., our luggage, consisting of two
oblong baskets, covered with tar
paulin, a cooking apparatus, and 2
waterproof carpet bags, was slung
upon 2 horses. There was a third
for riding. The baskets contained
our provisions, which consisted of a
ham, some bacon, some bread and
biscuits packed in tins, coffee, sugar,
portable soup, and a tin or two of
preserved meat, which we fortunately
had with us. Our course lay about
west, away from the river, up a val
ley through birch and fir trees, against
which the horses bumped our bag
267
gage considerably. Part of the forest

had been lately burnt : the trees were
Btill standing, but dead and bare, the
picture of desolation. It is stated
that when a fir forest is burnt, birch
trees spring up in its place, and vice
versd. About 8 hours brought us up
on to the bare fjeld, from whence we
obtained a fine view backwards of the
hills on each side of the river, and of
some mountains to the N.E. We
fancied they were the mountains of
Seiland, at the mouth of the Alten
Fjord. A little further on- we had
a view of the mountains near Kvcenangen Fjord, on the W. When the
fjeld is attained, it is an undulating
plateau, with very gentle ascents and
descents for a great extent. No
thing around but reindeer moss (Oenomyce rangiferina), a little reedy
grass, and bare stones. No birds,
or living creatures of any kind. The
extreme silence and stillness is, per
haps, the most striking feature. This
was only broken by passing a Lapp
encampment with a few deer about
it. About 8 we reached Ladne-jaure,
where we again came upon the river,
descending to it over an abrupt cliff,
which only Norwegian horses would at
tempt to descend. This is reckoned to
be 6 fjeld miles from the hut, where
we had slept the night before. We were
fortunate enough to find a gamme of
boughs here to sleep in, constructed
by our Norwegian friend, which was
some shelter from the pouring rain.
We had ordered two boats from Kau
tokeino to meet us here.
"Aug. 28. The next morning we
started about 9. The river here
widens out into still shallow lakes,
with little stream through them, so
that with rowing and sailing we pro
ceeded at about the rate of 1 Norsk
mile an hour. There were plenty
of ducks about, of which we were
fortunate enough to shoot some for
dinner, to which, boiled with port
able Boup, they were a very great
addition. We regretted much we
H 2
268
EOUTE 34.
ALTEN TO TORNEA.
had no spinning tackle with us.

There must be trout of very great
size in these entirely unfished waters,
and at times the boats were not go
ing too fast to admit of trying for
them in our course. There were oc
casionally some fishing eagles on the
banks, one of which my companion
with some difficulty shot. I had
seen, the week before, in the Alten
River, an eagle make an attempt to
carry off a salmon, which was too large
for him. I heard a great flapping of
wings "on the water in the stream at
the bottom of the pool, and on look
ing down, saw a great fight between
the fish and the bird. The bird could
not lift the fish out of the water, but
eould bring him to the surface. At
length the fish dragged the eagle un
der water, and all was quiet. Pre
sently they reappeared, and the same
contest took place on the surface once
more. This was repeated three times,
and at last the eagle was dragged
down, and I saw no more of them.
My boatman informed me, that in
stances had occurred of salmon being
taken in their nets, with the body of
an eagle attached to them, both dead
of course : the eagle having been un
able to withdraw its claws. There
is a somewhat similar case to this in
the Museum in Truro in Cornwall.
A cormorant was picked up by some
fishermen with a large conger eel
round its neck, having evidently
strangled it. The specimens are pre
served together. But to continue.
We had dinner at Masi, an old
Lapp church, but unused for 100
years. There is no roof, and a birch
tree was growing in the middle of it.
All the baulks of timber, of which
it is built, must have been brought
up singly over the snow by reindeer
from Alten. About 5 p.m. we reach
ed a fine fall of about 50 feet in
height, over which a great volume
of water was falling. The boats had
to be dragged over land here, and as
this operation took some time, we
'Norway.
passed the night on an island in the .

middle of the river: our Lapp boat
men lighting an enormous fire, and
making a shelter by turning the boat
upside down. The next day we
reached Kautokeino in about 4 or
5 hours : the banks of the river
getting lower and lower, as we as
cended, till near Kautokeino they
were but little above the river. The
distance from Alten to Kautokeino
by this route we roughly calculated
to be about 19 miles. With a strong
north wind it might very easily be
done in 3 days. The expenses for 2
were3 horses from Alten to Ladnejaure about 16 sp. d. The bargain
should be made before starting. From
Ladne-jaure to Kautokeino, 2 boats
with 4 men, 13 sp. d. The most fa
vourable time for this trip is in the
middle of August, before the days
shorten sensibly. The melting of the
snow in June, and early in July, con
verts every stream into a torrent, and
every spring into a morass. The mos
quitoes in July, and the beginning
of August, are so troublesome as to
deprive the trip of all pleasure. In
September the days shorten so con
siderably, and the nights become so
cold, that camping out becomes un
pleasant."
Kautokeino, 16 m. over the Fjeld
all the way, or 19 m. by Ladne-jaure
and Masi. There is a small colony
of Kvcens settled here ; their ances
tors came from Finland. In sum
mer, the inhabitants of this village
gain their principal subsistence by
fishing in the numerous lakes about
these mountains, and in collecting
fodder for their cattle in winter.
Here also many Lapland families
keep their stores of winter cloth
ing, &c, as at that period they de
scend from the higher ranges and
congregate about this place. The
church was built in 1660, but is
only used during the winter, when
the clergyman resides here for 3 or 4
months. Kautokeino is 834 feet above
Norway.
BOUTE 34.
the sea. A track leads from hence

to the N.E., at Karasjok, 18 m.,
where it joins that from Alten to the
Tana River, mentioned in Route 24.
The Lapps are generally quiet, welldisposed people, but in 1852 Kautokeino was the scene of some religious
disturbances, which resulted in the
murder by the Lapps of a Norwegian
merchant, and the Lensman resident
there. Subsequent inquiries have
shown that a private grudge existed
in the minds of the ringleaders
against these two men. But at all
events they made use of the religious
frenzy then existing todenounce them,
and to get together a sufficiently strong
party to come down and murderthese
men, with circumstances of great
cruelty. The two ringleaders, Aslak
Jakobsen Hetta and another, were
beheaded at Bosekopin October, 1854,
and the rest of the party condemned
to various terms of penal servitude,
or slaverie as it is termed ; measures
which have had a very wholesome
effect in quieting the excitement pre
valent among them. There is a good
explanation of the probable motives
which led to this murder, in an arti
cle in the first number of the " Theologisk Tidskrift," published in Christiania.
There are no horses to be had in
Kautokeino, and they must be ordered
beforehand from Karesuando, in Swe
den, distant about 10 m. They
should be ordered by writing from
Bosekop, and time must be allowed
for them to come.
From Kautokeino the country is
comparatively level, the mountains
seen being detached, and rarely exceed
about 500 ft. from the surrounding
plain. The ascent, however, again
commences from Kautokeino, but is
very gradual until it reaches the
small lake of Jedeclcejaure, 1378 feet
above the sea.
"Aug. 29.We started in the
afternoon from Kautokeino, and went
2 miles up the river again to a
KABESUANDO.
269
wretched Lapp house, where we slept.

The next day we started about 8,
and crossed the Russian frontierabout
mid-day. This strip of territory
runs out between Sweden and Nor
way, to within 25 milesof the Lyngen
Fjord, on the W. coast of Norway,
the country continuing much the
same : a level undulating plateau, but
with more dwarf birch and juniper
undergrowth. We saw more ryper
to-day, but no great quantity. About
8 p. M. , we found a house to sleep in
in the Russian territory. It was ex
ceedingly dirty, but the only house
anywhere near : this was about 5
miles from our quarters of the night
before, and 7 from Kautokeino.
' ' The distance hence to Karesuando
in Sweden, which we reached the
next day, is about 3 m. Forests of
fir and birch closed in on our track
again on this last day, being first seen
at an elevation of 1327 feet above the
sea : but there was little else of
interest.
"Karesuando, 10 m. from Kauto-i,
keino. Our expenses for 3 horses
from Kautokeino hither were 21
sp. d. Karesuando is on the southern
side of the Muonio, which is a fine
river, dividing Swedish Lappmark
from Russian Finland. The river at
Karesuando is more than 200 yards
wide, although it must be more than
250 Eng. m. from the sea. There is
a nice church here, and an appearance
of prosperity very striking after the
desolation of the fjeld. Barley ripens
here.
*
" The next day we took a boat with
3 men, and got as far as Muonioniska.
The boats are of the same construc
tion as the Alten boats, but larger ;
35 feet long, 4 wide, and 3 or 4 narrow
planks deep. Two men row, and one
steers with a large paddle. The
stream is very rapid, and the cataracts
numerous, but the boatmen are very
expert. Dense forests clothe the Rus
sian bank ; there are greaterattempts
at agriculture on the Swedish side.
270
ROUTE 84.ALTEN TO TORNEA.
Half-way between Karesuando and

Muonioniska, Palajoensum, where the
winter road joins the river, is passed. "
Muonioniska, 10 from Karesuando
by water, or 16 from Kautokeino by
the winter road. " The station is on
the Russian side, but we were most
kindly taken in on the Swedish side,
it being judged imprudent to enter so
large a village as Niska, where Rus
sian officials reside, during the time
of the war. After the dirt and dis
comfort of crossing the fjeld, a Rus
sian bath is a great luxury. They
are generally to be had in any town
or village of the Finmark, Lappmark, or Finland. There is a small
building devoted to the purpose. A
pile of hot stones are heaped upin one corner, on which water is
thrown. The patient is seated on a
shelf high up near the roof, and
gently flagellates himself with a
bundle of birch twigs, while the steam
ascends all round him. 125 Fahr.
was as much as I could bear
comfortably, though the natives, with
whom this is a weekly custom in
winter, take it much hotter. They
go from this heat, and plunge in
cold water, or roll in the snow for a
short time. After which they return
to the bath, and are soaped and
washed by an old woman, who is in
attendance. M. Leouzon le Due, in
the notes to his translation of the
Kalewala, 25th Runa, states : ' Que
les paysannes Finlandaises accouchent
toujours dans le bain.' Whatever
may be the ease in Finland, this is
not the practice in Norway. There is
also a good account of the descent of
the Muonio rapids in his notes to the
Kalewala."
From Muonioniska.
In summer the usual and most
delightful mode of making all the
rest of the journey to Tornea is by
water. The boats used are sharp at
each end, and as buoyant as nut
shells. They are only calculated to
Norway.
contain two passengers besides the

boatmen ; two rowers sit in thebows,
and in the stern of the boat is the
steersman with a heavy paddle with
which he guides the boat. The river is
broad, of an imposing appearance,
and broken by innumerable cataracts;
nevertheless, it is not so difficult or
dangerous as some travellers have re
presented it to be, the rapidity of the
descent being lessened materially by
its great length. Sometimes the in
clination of the water is scarcely to be
perceived ; at others, the waves rush
boiling and foaming against the rocks,
appearing to carry the devoted boat
to destruction, which, however, no
sooner nears the apparent danger than
it is whirled of and passes by in
safety. It is at these critical mo
ments that the dexterityof the helms
man is called into requisition ; the
most experienced and boldest boat
man is always selected for that
office, and it is surprising to observe
with what calmness and steadiness he
guides the boat through the greatest
dangers.
The banks of the river, which are
somewhat flat, are covered with vege
tation, and thickly wooded with the
birch, pine, fir, and a variety of wil
low. There is little of interest, how
ever, all the way down from Niska to
Tornea. Hardly a word of anything
but Finlandic is understood before
reaching Matarengi.
Mr. Bayard Taylor's "Northern
Travel " suggests a vocabulary of Fin
landic words, which were sufficient to
carry him through the country. They
are pronounced as spelt. The spelling
of many words is wrong.
1
2
3
4
S
6
7
8
Yxi.
Kam.
Golme.
Nelja.
Visi.
Gusi.
Sehtima.
Kalidexan.
Norway.
9
10
4
Horses
A bed
Togo
To eat
Good
Large
Boat
House
Where
Are you ready ?
Look sharp
How much
Good night
Drive on
A mile
Bread
Meat
Milk
Butter
Fire
Not
Over
To sleep
Bad
Small
Come here
Bring here
ROUTE 34.
Yhdexan.
Gymmenda.
Boeli.
Hevorsle.
Srengy.
Minne.
Sua.
Huwa.
Emu.
Venne.
Tupa.
Missa.
Ongus sia wahnis t
Hopposla.
Goinga balion.
Hwwaste.
Ayoperli.
Peligorma.
Leiba.
lAha.
Maito.
Voyda.
Valkja.
Ala.
Baiki.
Nukko.
Pdhd.
Picco.
Tuoli denne.
Towa denne.
On leaving Muonioniska small

farms appear, and fields of barley,
which is the only grain that can ripen
about here. Half a mile from Mu
onioniska are the rapids of Eyanpaika,
or Mu&nio-koski, the steepest and
most dreaded on the river. These
rapids continue for nearly an English
mile, rushing between naked rocks,
which stand like encampments on
each side ; a few solitary trees over
hang the banks, and excepting these
nothing is to be seen but the clear
blue sky above, and the foaming
waters which appear to be whirling
you to destruction. Not a sound is
heard but the roaring of the waters,
as they foam and dash against num
berless obstructions. It is a grand
and most exciting spectacle.
"The most dangerous part of the
MUONIONISKA.
871
whole consists of two nearly perpen

dicular falls, one about 100 yards
distant from the other. The higher
one is of a horse-shoe shape, with a
sheer fall of about 6 feet, stretching
apparently right across the river.
There is, however, on the eastern side
a creep, through which the water
rushes, instead of falling perpendicu
larly, and it is through this that the
boat shoots at railway speed. The
roar increases as you approach this,
the stream boils more and more, the
rowers quicken their stroke, and the
boat is whirled into the tumbling bay
between the two falls. It is neces
sary to cross this ; for the passage
down the lower fall is on the western
side, the descent of which is very
similar to that of the higher one, ex
cept that the boat floats out into some
back water immediately below, while
the men quietly commence baling.
Perhaps the most dangerous part of
all is between the two falls, for the
stream has to be crossed with the
boat, at times, broadside to the waves.
This space is full of rocks also, and
there is barely time to get the boat's
head straight, before it is whirled
into the second fall. Till quite of
late years this rapid was esteemed
quite impassable, and boats were
dragged overland, but a certain Karl
Begina looking from the bank one
day, thought he saw that a clear
course was possible, and made the ex
periment alone, letting the boat down
stern foremost by rowing against the
stream, and so retaining steerage way.
He was quite successful, and siifce
that time he is the recognised pilot,
and receives a regular fee for taking
boats down."
The stations are as follows :
Kolare, 10.
Kexisvara, 3. The house on the
Swedish bank of the river, if it be
the station, is very dirty and uncom
fortable. Soon after quitting this
station the Torned River comes rush
ing in by a grand fall upon the W.
272
BOUTE 34.hapabanda and tornea.
Norway.
through a narrow opening of the fui et terris jactatus et cataractis,

rocks. The body of water is very multurn quoque et culicibus passus."
S. Stewart, civis oririx, 3 Julii,
great, and swift as an arrow. Iron
ores abound about here, and in the 1787. ("Walking Stewart.")
upper parts of the Tornea, actually
Finland is not much changed in the
form whole mountains. These ores matter
of "cuZices," whether they be
are very rich, but do not produce good mosquitoes
or fleas.
iron unless smelted with others of a
Another inscription is
different quality.
Karelin, S\.
"Justice bids me record thy hospi
Pello, 2J. The country now be
fame
comes very rich, and the Armenian And table
testify it by my name."
like costume of the peasants is pic
W. Langhom, United States
turesque. The rest of the stations
of America, Jvli 23, 1787.
are
Turtola, 2.
Niemio, \\.
Juskengis, 1.
Pcehhila, \\.
Mariosara, 1J.
KorpiJaUa, If.
* Matarengi, 1. Capital quarters.
Kukhola, If.
There is a good summer road all the
Vojatola, If.
way down on the Swedish side from
Hapabanda and Toenea, 1. For
hence to Haparanda. In winter the description of those towns and roads
road is chiefly on the frozen river, to Stockholm, see Route 65. In 1854
diverging occasionally to the Russian, the Stockholm steamers started from
or Swedish side to cut off a bend. a small fjord, about a Swedish mile
Even Muonio-koski itself is frozen (6 Eng.) west of Haparanda. We
over in winter. Matarengi is nearly had some little trouble in finding this
on the Arctic Circle. East of it is the fjord.
mountain of Avasaxa, which many
The Expenses of the trip of course
travellers have ascended to see the depend on the number of horses and
midnight sun. In the last century boats used. Ours, for 2 persons,
it seems to have been the ' ' but de amounted to about 83 sp. dollars,
voyage" of many distinguished per or 192. The items were
sonages, who have left inscriptions in
sp. d.
the village of Jukas-jervi, to signify Alten to Ladne-jaure, 3 horses 20
that the world ended about here. Ladne-jaure to Kautokeino, 2
Regnard and his companions left the
boats
13
following inscription :
Kautokeino to Karesuando, 3
horses
21
" Gallia nos genuit, vidit nos Africa,
Karesuando to Muonioniska, 1
Gangem.
boat, 3 men
5
Hausimus, Europamque oculis lustraMuonioniska to Matarengi, 1
vimus omnem
boat,
3
men
...
15
Casibus et variis acti terraque mariMatarengi to Haparanda, by
que
road
5
Sistimus hie tandem, nobis ubi defuit
Sundries
4
orbis."
De Fescourt, Corberon, Reg
Sp. d. 83
nard a Jukasjervi. 18th
August, 1681.
The time consumed was 12 days,
Another long inscription contains including one whole day's rest at Kau
the following sentence : "Multum tokeino, and another at Muonioniska.
I
I
Norway.
BOUTE 35.CHRTSTJANIA TO STOCKHOLM:.
ROUTE 35.
CHRISTIANIA TO STOCKHOLM, THROUGH
I KONGSVINGER, 0ARLSTAB, AND BY
THE NORTH OF THE MALAR LAKE.
Dist. 59| Norsk and Swed. m., or
404 Eng. This is the most direct
route between the two Capitals.
Before leaving Christiania a good
' supply of Swedish small money
should, if possible, be obtained. The
peasants in Sweden still prefer paper
money to coin. A little stock of pro
visions should be taken, as for some
distance the stations are not good.
Passports must be vis6 by the Police
on entering Sweden.
After the majestic beauty and
grandeur of the scenery in the N.
and W. of Norway, this route is com
paratively tame and uninteresting to
the lover of mountain landscape. Yet
some of the scenery is picturesque.
See also preliminary information to
Route 67, which is joined upon the
Swedish frontier.
From Christiania to Kloften by rail
as in Route 26.
+ Langbakke, I m. On this stage
two small tributaries to the Glommen
are crossed, as well as the Vormen
Elv, which flows from the Miosen
Lake, and falls into the Glommen a
short distance E. of our route. Before
crossing the Vormen, a road is passed
on the right (Route 32), which leads
down the valley of the Glommen to
Christiania. The valley of the Glom
men is entered soon after crossing
the Vormen Elv, and the Kam Elv is
crossed near
+ Opaker, 1J. This stage continues
up the right bank of the Glommen.
The valley here is about 6 or 8 Eng.
m. wide, with fir-clad mountains gra
dually rising on either side. The soil
is good, and much cultivated in places.
The river is about as broad as the
Rhine near Cologne, and flows with a
gentle current through flat alluvial
land.
273
t Vestre-Os, If. The Oms Elv,

another tributary to the Glommen, is
passed just before coming to the next
station. It flows from the Stor Lake,
about a mile distant on the N. The
trout in the Glommen and its tribu
taries on this Route are said to be
abundant, but there are no salmon.
From hence the road turns nearly
S.E., still up the right bank, and
follows the winding of the Glommen
all the way to Konsvinger. The soil
in this valley is considered the best
in Norway, and the farmers are the
most substantial of their class.
T Sundby, j.
* Kongsvinger, \\. This small
town was formerly of some impor
tance, being considered as one of the
keys of Norway. During the last
war between Norway and Sweden the
fortifications were repaired, and seve
ral additions made to them, but since
the union of Sweden they have been
abandoned, and in the year 1823 the
-garrison was entirely removed. The
citadel is upon a commanding emi
nence above the town, which is built
upon a high point of land, round
which the Glommen makes a sudden
bend from S. to W. , forming a lake,
and thus rendering this old frontier
fortress a strong position. This lake,
in high floods, communicates with
another, which sends a considerable
body of water by the Wrongs Elv,
into the Wenern Lake ; and this pro
bably has been, and still would be,
the course of the whole body of the
Glommen, but for the sudden deflec
tion at a right angle to its previous
course, which it takes at Kongsvinger.
Laing's Sweden, p. 26.
Oh crossing the Glommen at Kongs
vinger our Route keeps S. E. along the
bank of the Wrongs Elv, which runs
towards the Wenern, sometimes
spreading into a long winding lake,
partly hidden by trees and picturesque
rocks. The whole country, when
seen from the heights, appears a
moving sea of woods. The timber
H 3
274
route 36.christiania to stookholm.
felled in these forests may be sent

into Sweden by the Wrongs Elv and
Wenern Lake, on the E. ; and on the
W. by the GHommen, into the North
Sea.
t Brcenna, lg. From hence a
by-road leads through the hills to the
lower parts of the Glommen.
+ Magnord, 1\. Midway upon this
stage
The Swedish Frontier is crossed.
The boundary line is here an avenue
cut through the forest, with piles of
stones within view of each other, and
these are carefully kept up along the
whole line of this long frontier.
Morast, 1. From hence to Stock
holm, as in Route 67.
ROUTE 36.
CHRISTIANIA TO STOCKHOLM, ET FREDERIKSHALD AND THE SOUTH OF THE
WENERN LAKE.
Dist. 71 Norsk and Swed. m., or
483 Eng. This route is considerably
longer than the last, but the scenery
upon it is more picturesque, and it
embraces all the towns on the eastern
side of the Christiania Fjord, besides
the Falls of the Glommen, and of the
Gotha River, at Trollhattan.
As to money, passports, &c, see
preliminary information to the last
route, and also to Rte. 69, which
this joins at the Swedish frontier.
On leaving Christiania, the road
for the first two stages keeps near
the E. shore of the fjord, and com
mands lovely and extensive views
over it.
+ Prinsdal, m. About midway
on this stage a road to the E. leads
to the Glommen and Wenern Lake.
+ Skydsjordet, If. At a short dis
tance from this station, a road to the
right leads to the town of
* Drobak, 1, which is built upon
the E. bank of the Christiania Fjord,
and in the narrowest part of it. The
Norway.
population is about 1500. It has a

small export trade in timber and deals.
Opposite the town is a little island,
upon which the Government have con
structed a fortress, intended to pro
tect the capital against a coup de
main by steamers, or other vessels
coming up the fjord. From Diobak
a road leads back into our route, at
the Korsegaarden Station, 1 m. From
Skydsjordet, the next station is at
* Korsegaarden, .
*f Sundbye, }. Hence to Drobak,
Ht Roed, \\. Towards the end of
this stage the road is again close along
the E. bank of the Christiania
Fjord.
* Moss, f. This town is pic
turesquely situated on the bank of the
fjord. It is the capital of the Amt of
Smaalehnenes, and the residence of
the Amtmand. It has about 4000
inhabitants. There are several saw
mills in the neighbourhood, and it
has a large export trade in timber and
deals. The church is a handsome
building. There are baths in the
town which are much resorted to in
the summer season by the inhabitants
of Christiania. When the Swedes
under Bernadotte invaded Norway, in
1814, it was at Moss, on the 14th of
August in that year, that the conven
tion and armistice were agreed upon,
and which immediately preceded the
final union of the two crowns.
On the opposite side of the fjord is
the small town of Horten. Those
who desire to proceed to the W. of
Norway from Moss can do so by the
following stages. Tronvigen, \ m.
Thence across the fjord to Horten,
1^. Bruserocl, If, where Route 24
is joined, on the way to Drammen or
Kongsberg. Or from Horten the same
route can be entered at Fyldpaa, If,
on the way S. to Laurvig and Christiansand. Continuing our route from
Roed, the next station is
+* Dillingen, \\.
* Carlshuus, 1. From hence a
Norway.
route 36.by FEEDEEIKSHALD.
road to the S. diverges from our

route, and leads by Krabberod, \\,
to the town of * Frederikstad, .
The greater part of this road is along
the bank of the most W. branch of
the Glommen, which is crossed by a
ferry near the town, The population
is about 3000. Formerly it had a
considerable trade, but, since the
erection of Sarpsborg, its commerce
has greatly diminished. This is a
fortified town, and was of consider
able strength, but of late years the
works have been much neglected. In
1716, Charles XII, of Sweden at
tempted to carry it by a coup de main,
but failed ; and, moving upon Christiania, was so roughly handled by the
brave Norsemen, that he was com
pelled to retreat, with a loss of 4000
men, and thus ended his invasion of
Norway for that year. A Steamer
calls here every morning, about
11 o'clock, on her way from Frederikshald to Chiastiania. (See
Koute 20, p. 166.) From Frederikstad our route can be joined at Sarps
borg, If ; or at the station at Oiestad, If, through which a road leads
from hence to Frederikshald. The
splendid fall of the Glommen, known
as Sarp-fos, is about 14 m. up the
river from Frederikstad, and about
the same distance by the road. For
description of the fall, see below, at
Sarpsborg.
Direct route continued. Shortly
after leaving the last station, Carlshuus, a road upon the N. is passed,
which leads up the valley of the
Glommen to Christiania. The W.
branch of that river is subsequently
crossed, and the stage ends at
Haraldstad, 1J.
Sakpsborg, 4. This was formerly
a town of considerable importance,
containing no less than 7 churches.
In 1567, it was entirely destroyed by
the Swedes, and not rebuilt. The
site of the town formed part of the
estate of Borregaard, which was pur
chased many years since by Sir J. H.
275
Felly, Bart. , who obtained permission

from the Storthing for the rebuilding
of the town, which, after a lapse of
nearly 3 centuries, is now fast rising
into its former consequence. The
population at present is about 1000.
The town is situated on the rightbank
of the Glommen, nearly an English
mile below the celebrated fall. Tim
ber ships of the largest class come up
here.
The Sarp-fos. The finest views
of this splendid fall are from a short
distance below the distillery, and from
the opposite bank, at Hafslund. The
height of the fall is 72 Norsk feet.
This branch of the majestic Glommen
is much contracted immediately
before it arrives at the fall. On the
brink a projecting mass of granite
divides the stream, which falls almost
vertically and unbroken. The body
of water is very great, and there are
some large masses of granite about the
bottom of and below the fall, through
and over which the foaming water
rushes for a short distance, and then
flows gently onwards to the sea. The
numerous saw-mills and buildings
close to the fall on both sides detract
from the picturesque grandeur of this
Schaffhausen of the North. The vo
lume of water which thunders down
here at all seasons may be judged of
by the fact, that in summer, upon the
brink of the fall, the stream measures
116 Norsk feet in width, by 26 in
depth at the deepest part ; and in
spring, after the melting of the snow,
that depth is sometimes increased by
as much as 30 feet.
A great portion of the right bank
of the stream at the fall, and for a
considerable distance below it, is
chiefly composed of a stiff blue clay,
and formerly the river flowed by
Sarpsborg in a succession of magni
ficent rapids. At that time a very
fine mansion, with its numerous out
buildings, stood near the termination
of those rapids.
On the 5th of February, 1702, a
276
boute 36.christianta to Stockholm.
fearful catastrophe occurred. The

mansion, together with everything in
it, sunk into an abyss 100 fathoms
deep, and was instantly covered with
the foaming waters. The house was
doubly walled, but of these, as well
as of several high towers, not a trace
was left; 14 persons and about 200
head of cattle were engulphed, and
perished on this awful occasion. The
cause of this event is attributed to
the fact of the Glommen having gra
dually undermined the high bank on
which the mansion was situated.
Everest's Norway, p. 276. At the
present mansion-house of Borregaard,
there is a large picture of the rapids
of the Glommen and the adjoining
country, which was painted the year
prior to this accident ; it is most in
teresting, as it enables the alterations
which have taken place to be accu
rately traced.
The noble water power at this fall
has long been turned to great account
for saw-mills.' The left bank is in
the occupation of a Company, whose
business is exclusively confined to tim
ber. The right bank is entirely occu
pied by an extensive establishment,
not only of saw-mills upon the newest
principles, but also a large iron foun
dry and agricultural implement manu
factory ; a flour mill, distillery, and a
brick yard, besides a large farm, and
buildings in proportion for the nu
merous horses and cattle, which must
all be housed in winter. The system
pursued here combines all the economy
of a Norwegian farm with the most
approved modes of English agricul
ture. The Company give employment
to about 300 hands, and their esta
blishment is the largest of its kind in
Norway. The old and horrid system
of paying the men partly in rations of
brandy has been abolished, and the
most zealous efforts are being made to
promote their comfort and permanent
well-being, as well as that of their
families. The tramway, leading from
the saw-mills to the quay, was the
Norway.
first constructed in Norway ; a large

tunnel (amply sufficient for a single
line of railway), used for floating the
timber into the yards, from above the
falls, was made in a novel manner. A
small aperture was blasted in the
usual way in the face of the rock. In
this a fire was then lighted, and kept
burning till the granite around it
became thoroughly heated, when the
embers were hastily removed, and 4
men with heavy sledge hammers
striking the rock as quickly as pos
sible, it gradually peeled off. The fuel
used was the waste outside pieces cut
from the logs. Eight men were em
ployed in gangs of 4 each, and the
fires were kept up night and day
until the work was finished, which
was accomplished in two years. The
distance cut per month was 2 fathoms
6 inches.
From Sarpsborg the Glommen is
crossed by a suspension bridge just
above the fall, and the road con
tinues through a poor country to
t Oiestad, If. From hence, on the
E. , a road leads to Christiania, and
on the W. to Frederikstad, If
distant.
Near the end of this stage a road
upon the E. turns off from this route,
and leads to * Frederikshald, If
m. This town is built in the angle
formed by the picturesque Idde
Fjord at its junction with Swine
sund. It has an excellent harbour,
in which the largest vessels can be
moored. The old name of this town
was Halden, to which Frederick III.,
in 1665, added his own name, in
commemoration of its gallant defence
against the Swedes. There are
several handsome edifices in the
town, which is neat and well built,
and carries on a considerable trade
in timber. In 1759 nearly the
whole of the place, as it then ex
isted, was destroyed by fire. The
population is now upwards of 4000.
The fortress of Frederiksteen is
built upon a perpendicular rock,
Norway.
route 36.by FREDERIKSHALD.
400 feet high, on the S.E. of the

town. The view from it is very
beautiful. This place is celebrated
not only for the numerous sieges it
has stood, but as the place where
Charles XII. of Sweden was killed.
Having failed in carrying Frederikshald when he marched upon Christiania, in 1716, he devoted nearly
two years to raising another army
for the conquest of Norway. General
Armfelt, with a division of 7000
men, in Sept. 1718, marched through
the mountains to attack Trondhjem,
but abandoned the attempt, and in
their retreat nearly his whole force
perished in a snow storm, which
literally overwhelmed them. Charles
himself moved upon Frederikshald,
and directed the operations of the
siege. He was killed in the trenches
on the 11th Dee., and, when found,
his hand was firmly clenched upon
the hilt of his sword, which was
half drawn from its scabbard. The
cause of his death was a shot in the
temple, which passed through his
hat. This hat lies upon his tomb in
the Riddarholm Church in Stock
holm, and a careful examination of
it proves, by the size of the ball, and
the horizontal direction it took
through the thick felt, that he was
slain by a pistol-shot upon the same
level as that upon which he stood,
and not by a gun-shot from the
fortress, which was considerably
above him.
Frederiksteen was formerly of
great strength. On 3 sides it is
inaccessible. On the 4th, close
under the walls of the outer works,
a few stones, rudely fastened to
gether, are said to mark the spot
where Charles XII. fell, but no in
scription commemorates that event.
Excursion from Frederikshald.
"About 3 Eng. m. E. of the town
there is a considerable lake, the Fern,
S&e, the stream from which flows
into the fjord close to Frederikshald.
The body of water is not considerable,
277
except in May and June, and after

heavy rains ; but at all seasons the
waterfalls upon this stream are the
most picturesque in the S. of Norway.
It is from the saw-mills and manu
factories established at these falls
that Frederikshald owes its com
mercial importance. There is a
pretty walk or drive along the bank
of the river from the town to the
falls. A few hundred yards above
them from the mansion, Wien,. there
is an extensive and charming view
over the Fem Sbe, and to the S.W.
over the beautiful valley (Tistedalen),
and the wooded banks of the Idde
Fjord. Crossing the bridge over the
falls, there is a pleasant drive back
to Frederikshald by Frederiksteen."
J. P.
A Steamer during the summer
months leaves Frederikshald every
morning, about 7, on her way to
Christiania, where she arrives about
4 p. M. Carriages are taken on board,
and the fares are exceedingly mode
rate. See Route 20, p. 166. The
whole length of the Swinesund is
highly picturesque. One of the
finest views of Frederiksteen is from
the water, about J an Eng. m. to
the W.
From Frederikshald a road leads
back to our route at the Westgaard
Station, f.
Continuing the direct Road from
Oiestad, the next station is likewise
Westgaard, 1. Upon this stage
Swinemnd is crossed by a ferry.
There is good accommodation to be
had on the Norwegian side. It forms
the boundary between Norway and
Sweden.
+ HOgdal,
This is the first
station upon the Swedish frontier.
From hence the road to the Falls of
Trollhattan and Stockholm is as in
Route 77 to Uddevalla, and from
thence as in Route 69.
278
ROUTE 88.
LEIBDALSOUEN TO ROMSDALEN.
ROUTE 37.
CHRISTIANIA TO HELSINGBORG, THROUGH
GOTTENBURG.
Dist. 52j Norsk and Swed. m., or
3fi8 Eng.
Nearly all the station-houses in
Sweden upon this route are wretched
places, and there is no scenery, or
anything of sufficient interest to
compensate for the fatigue, discom
fort, and cost of this long journey
by land. From Christiania to the
Swedish frontier is the same as in
Route 36 ; and from thence, as in
Route 77, to Helsingborg. By taking
the steamer from Christiania to
Frederikstad, near which are the
Falls of the Glommen, and going by
land from thence to the Falls of
TrollhiUtan and on to Gottenburg,
some of the finest scenery in this
part of Norway and Sweden will be
seen, and the least interesting and
most fatiguing avoided. For steamers
from Christiania and from Gotten
burg, see those towns.
By the direct road from Chris
tiania to Gottenburg it is 30 Norsk
and Swed. m., or 204 Eng.
ROUTE 38.
LEIRDALSOREN (iN ROUTE 21) TO ROMS
DALEN (IN ROUTE 30), OVER THE
SOGNE FJELD AND HAALANGEN FJELD.
Dist. 17J Norsk m., or 1224 Eng.
Four days must be allowed for this
journey, the second and fourth of
which are long and fatiguing. This
allows for reaching Optun Station
the 1st night ; Hoff the 2nd ; Blaker
the 3rd ; and Holseth the 4th.
" The scenery upon this route is
most grand, and it includes Skagstdls
Tind, which is 7877 feet,* being
* ForwU'i Map, in 8 sheets, published at
Stockholm, 1815-1826.
Norway.
163 higher than Sneehcettan (see

Route 26), which was long supposed
to be the highest. It is now ascer
tained, that Galdhbpiggen (see an
excursion from Viig in Route 26),
is higher than Skagstbls Tind, being
8300 Norsk feet. Excepting the
first 35 E. m. by water, the journey
must be performed either on horse
back or on foot, but the fatigue will
be amply repaid, and the undertaking
is not so arduous as to deter any
one in good health and of average
pedestrian powers.
A small supply of food should be
taken, but no luggage except what
can be stowed away in a knapsack
or pair of saddle-bags.
The stations from Leirdalsbren
are
Salvorn, 2J by water.
Dosen, 14 by water.
Skjolden, } by water.
From Leirdalsbren to Skjolden, at
the head of the Lyster Fjord (which
is the extreme N.E. branch of the
Sogne Fjord), the scenery is grand
and sombre. About 14 m. before
reaching Skjolden on the E. is the
Feigum Fos, a fine waterfall, said
to be 200 feet. Some distance
higher up in the mountains the same
stream makes another fall of 700
feet.
The Sogne Fjeld.
Skjolden, 5 m., by water the whole
way. From this station to the N.E.,across the Sogne Fjeld to Blaker
in Lomb, upon the Vaage Vand, is 84
Norsk m. , or 60 Eng. There are two
ways from Skjolden, mere horsetracks, and for many miles steep and
of the roughest description ; they
are both about the same distance.
The western passes along the W. bank
of the small lake at the head of the
Lyster Fjord, and thence up the
valley of the Eide Elv, nearly due
N.E. But the grandest scenery is
upon
The Eastern Track, which crosses
Norway.
ROUTE 38. ACHOSS THE MOUNTAINS.
the river at the head of the Lyster

Fjord, and passes by the E. bank of
the lake to the village of
Fortun, \ m. , and thus far the road
is tolerably good. Close here a tribu
tary stream is crossed, which flows
from the E. into the Eide Elv, and
quitting FortunsdaL the track follows
the right bank of this stream by a
very steep and rocky ascent up a wild
and romantic valley to
Optun, 4 m. This is a large moun
tain farm, not a sceter. I passed the
night here ; the accommodations are
rough and indifferent, but the people
civil and obliging. Here a pony and
guide can be obtained to cross the
mountains, but some hours' notice is
requisite, and on that account it is
better to pass the night at this place,
so that they may be ordered in good
time and ready for the journey early
next morning. The stage is a long
one of 35 E. m. , and the same pony
and guide are taken the whole way to
Kvandesvold. The charge for a pony
is about 3 sp. ds., and the owner,
who acts as guide, will expect 1 or
ort for himself. There is no occasion
to take a pony for the guide, as the
Norwegian mountaineers are excellent
pedestrians. These ponies require no
guidance, and, when left to them
selves, pick their way amongst the
rocks and stones with perfect safety
to the rider, thus enabling him with
ease and comfort to enjoy the scenery.
There is nothing to prevent a good
pedestrian from accomplishing the
whole distance on foot. I think it
would be impossible for a traveller to
cross the Sogne Fjeld, for the first
time, without a guide ; and certainly
it would be highly imprudent to at
tempt it. These mountains are never
crossed in winter. The price paid for
ponies is fixed, as in other parts of
the country, but the charges for them
are higher, from the length and diffi
culty of the stage.
On leaving Optun the path con
tinues very rough and rocky as it
279
ascends the valley, and graduallywinds

towards the N. E. In about an E. m.
it emerges on the mountains, and the
ascent then continues gradual and
winding until the summit of the pass
is attained. This most grand valley,
throughout its length, divides the
range of the Hurungerne (or HorUngerne) mountains on the S. from
those ef the Sogne Fjeld upon theN.,
and about midway up the pass from
Optun, the gigantic SkagstOls Tind is
passed, on the S. The peaks of this
mountain, which form part of the
Hor-Ungerne range, are most fan
tastic, like those to the S. of Molde.
They are best seen from the summit
of the pass, from whence, looking
back to the S. and W. , the scenery is
of the grandest Alpine character.
' ' The peasants have a tradition that
these Hor-Ungerne mountains were
the offspring of an incestuous mar
riage, and therefore changed to stone.
The name in the Norsk tongue indi
cates the misconduct of the mother."
Everest's Norway, p. 243.
From this point the track continues
for many E. miles over a table-land,
by numerous lakes and tarns, and
amongst rocks and snow. I passed a
lake on these mountain's on the 1st
July still covered with ice. This
table-land forms the summit level of
the Sogne Fjeld, and about 3 m.
from Optun,. still continuing to the
N. E. , . the descent commences, while
upon the N. may be seen the Zomb
Fjeld, 6830 feet. In about 4 m.
from the commencement of this
descent
Sceteren Bceverthun is reached, 3J
m. from Optun, or 25 E., and the
only habitation during the whole dis
tance. At these two sceters, or moun
tain dairies, it is essential to halt for
the refreshment of the pony and guide.
About an hour will be sufficient.
Some milk, and a seat by the fire, are
all the accommodations these sceters
can offer. From hence to the next
station at Kvandesvold is 1 J in. The
280
route 38. leirdalsoren to romsdalen.
track soon enters the valley of the

Haver Elv, and becomes less rugged.
In about 4 N. m. a fine waterfall is
passed a short distance off, on the
N.W. I was 13 hours on the way
from Optun to Kvandesvold, but
this included the delay of an hour at
Soeteren Bceverthun.
Kvandesvold, 5 m. from Optun.
At this station another pony and
guide can be obtained ; but to prevent
the delay attendant on procuring
them it is advisable, if possible, to
take on those from Optun. It will
cause no diminution in speed, for
these mountaineers and their ponies
seem never to tire, and particularly
if the former be allowed to ride a
short distance occasionally.
From Kvandesvold the track con
tinues rugged in places, but is, on
the whole, tolerably good, and winds
down the valley of the Baver Elv to
Hoff, 1 m. This station is at a
large farm, and I found the people
very obliging and kind. The accom
modations are superior to those at
Optun.
The path from hence continues
down the valley of the Baver Elv,
the scenery of which is picturesque, to
Maker, in Lomb Parish, 1J m.
The station here is good. Blaker to
Laurgaard. A carriage-road to the
E., along the Vaage Vand, leads to
Laurgaard, on the high road between
Christiania and Trondhjem (Route
26) by these stations, Blaker to Grardmo, 1J ; Sandbo, 1J, by water ;
Laurgaard, 2.
From Blaker to Romsdalen. Those
who desire to make this journey by
carriole should go to Sandbo, as above,
from whence there is a tolerable by
road through Haagenstadt, Slaadalen,
and Hatreinsbraen, close to the Hol
seth station in Route 30.
The Haalangen Fjeld.
This Mountain Route from Blaker
to Romsdalen, after the first mile,
Norway-
can only be traversed on foot or on

horseback. It is inferior in scenery
to that over the Sogne Fjeld. The
views from the mountains are, how
ever, extremely grand, yet, if the
additional fatigue were an object,
would scarcely repay those who have
crossed the Sogne Fjeld. Wild rein
deer are found upon these moun
tains.
To avoid stopping on the road, it
will be best, if possible, to hire a pony
and guide at Blaker to go the whole
way to Holseth, i m.
A carriage-road from Blaker leads
up the valley on the W. to
Skeager, 1 m., which is a dirty
and bad station. From hence a
hor3e-track commences, which soon
crosses the Otta Elv, near its junction
with the Vaage Vand. A smaller stream
is also crossed soon afterwards, and
the ascent of the Haalangen moun
tains then begins. It is very steep
and rocky the whole way up. In
about two hours' time the elevated
table-land of the field is reached,
across which the direction of the path
is marked by piles of stones. It is
rugged in the extreme the whole way,
but a pony goes quite safely over it.
After crossing the Otta Elv, the track
leads nearly due N. for about half
way over the mountains, until it
enters Loordalen. Here the track
separates, one branch going N., and
entering Romsdalen near the Miilmen
station. The other leads down Loor
dalen, and, in about an hour after
wards, To S&teren is reached. These
are the first habitations on the way
from Skeager, and a halt at them is
requisite for the pony and guide.
On leaving To Soeteren the track
soon enters a pine forest, through
which it continues, and is very rugged
nearly all the way to
T Holseth, 3 m. This station is
on the high road to Molde, see Route
30. Including stoppages, I was J4
hours in going this 3 miles from
Skeager to Holseth.S.C.
Norway.
route 39.christiania to Hamburg.
ROUTE 39.
CHRISTIAN!! TO HAMBURG, IN WINTER.
It is expected that, in future, a
Goyernment steamer will run during
the two or three winter months from
Christiania, or the nearest town in
the fjord, which is free from ice, to
Kiel.
281
The usual route this winter (1857)

has been from Christiania by way
of Gottenburg to Helsingborg. See
Route 37. Thence across the Sound
to Elsinore, and by diligence to Co
penhagen. From Copenhagen by rail to
Korsor (see Route 1), whence a steamer
went to Kiel. From Kiel to Hamburg
by rail in 4 hours (see Route 1). The
entirejourneyfrom Christianiato Ham
burg would thus take about 5 days.
SWEDEN.
INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION.
1. Routes from England to Sweden.2. Money, Measures, Weights.3. Pass
ports, Quarantine. 4. Modes of Travelling, Inns, Steamers, Carriages.
6. Requisites for Travelling.6. Sending Forbud, Posting Regulations,
&c, Table of Payments for Horses. 7. Swedish Vocabulary, die. 8.
Scenery and Sketching. 9. Angling.10. Shooting and Game Laws. 11.
Succinct Account of Sweden. 12. Historical Notice.13. Government.
14. The Royal Family, the People.15. Productive Industry.16. Com
merce. 17. literature, <Stc.18. Churcltes. 19. Canals.
ROUTES.
ROUTE
PAGK ROUTE
PAGE
60. London to Stockholm by Lu67. Stockholm to Christiania by
beck, calling at Ystad and
the North of the Malar
Kalmar .
.
.
.314
Lake, and through Carlstad
61. London to Stockholm by
and Kongsvinger .
. 364
68. Stockholm to Gottenburg by
Railway from Ostend to
Berlin and Stettin, and
the North Road, through
Wester&s, Orebro, and Mafrom thence crossing the
riestad .
.
.
.367
Baltic to Kalmar .
. 333
69. Stockholm to Christiania by
62. Stockholm to Upsala, the
Danemora Iron Mines, the
the South of the Wenern
Copper Mines atFahin, and
Lake, through Mariestad
the Royal Porphyry Works
and Wenersborg .
. 369
at Elfdal, in Dalecarlia . 335 70. Stockholm to Gottenburg by
63." Stockholm to Gottenburg by
the South Road, through
Nykoping, Linkoping, and
the Gdta Canal
.
. 346
64. Stockholm to Trondhjem by
Jonkoping .
.
. 369
Upsala, Sundsvall, and
71. Stockholm to Helsingborg by
Ostersund .
.
. 357
Nykoping and Jonkoping . 371
65. Stockholm to Haparanda and
72. Stockholm to Ystad through
Tornea, along the Coast of
Nykoping, Jonkoping, and
the Gulf of Bothnia
. 360
Wexio .
.
.
.372
66. Stockholm to Finland in Rus
73. Stockholm to Ystad by Ny
sia by the Aland Islands . 363
koping and Eksjo .
. 373
Sweden.
ROUTES FBOM ENGLAND.
PAGI
ROUTE
74. Stockholm to Ystad, round
the Coast by Kalmar and
. 374
Carlskrona
75. Stockholm to Carlskrona
through Norrkoping and
. 376
Eksjo .
.
.
MONET, ETC.
283
76. Ystad and Malmo to Helsingborg through Lund . 377

77. Helsingborg to Christiania,
through Gottenburg
. 378
78. Gottenburg to Carlstad by
the Falls of Trollhattan
and Wenersborg .
. 381
I. ROUTES PROM ENGLAND TO SWEDEN.

There are several ways of making this jdfcmey, all which are stated in
"Route 60, London to Stockholm." The most direct is from Hull to Gotten
burg by one of the North of Europe Steajn Navigation Company's steamers,
which are despatched every Friday.
2. MONEY, MEASURES, WEIGHTS.
The currency is at first confusing to foreigners from there being at present
two kinds of dollars; the Rix-dollar Banco, and the Rigs-geld dollar. In
common parlance the former is always called Banco, the latter Rigs, or Ricks.
It is essential to bear this distinction continually in mind in all transactions,
and at once to acquire the facility of converting banco into rigs, and rigs into
banco. Both dollars are composed of 48 skillings, but the rigs are permanently
depreciated 33^ per cent, below the banco ;consequently, two dollars banco
are equal to 3 rigs : and, dividing the dollar into skillings, 32 sk. banco, or
two-thirds, are equal to 48 sk. rigs. The process of calculation, therefore, is
very simple, adding or subtracting one-third, as the case may be. Thus 2
dollars banco will pay an account amounting to 3 rigs ; and vice versd.
Government, merchants, and booksellers' accounts are all kept in banco ;
and the fares by steamers, and charges for posting are also in banco. But at
Inns and in shops (except booksellers) accounts are kept in rigs, which in all
ordinary charges (except those specified above) are understood, unless banco
be expressly named. But, to prevent any misunderstanding, travellers will
do well always clearly to ascertain, in the first instance, whether they are to
pay in banco, or in rigs. All accounts are therefore kept in dollars (banco or
rigs) and skillings.
The currency is chiefly confined to paper, which in most parts of Sweden is
taken in preference to coin, of which there is at present but comparatively
little in circulation. There is a new and handsome coinage, but gold and silver
are diflicult to obtain to any amount, except at the banks. For all sums of
one dollar and upwards, paper is better to take than coin ; being issued by the
Government, and therefore quite safe, and more portable. There are notes
both for Banco and Rigs, in circulation, but chiefly the former ; and in all
cases the amount and description are distinctly printed in large letters. The
284
MOKET.
MEASURES.
WEIGHTS.
Sweden.
notes are of 1 dollar up to 500, each amount printed on a different-coloured

paper. There are, likewise, Government notes for
4 dollar
...
24 sk.
4
'16
i
12
6 1)
8
The copper coins are of 2, 1, 4, and \ skillings. The notes below a dollar
are clumsy, cumbersome, and generally filthy ; it is therefore better to supply
their place with silver. For posting it is essential to be provided with a good
supply of copper as well as plenty of small silver or paper money, as change
is very difficult to obtain out of*the large towns.
The exchange is regulated by Hamburgh quotations. In drawing upon
England, the average may be taken at 12 dollars banco to the pound sterling.
At this rate, the English value of Swedish money is in
,
i. d.
Banco 1 skilling, about ^ths of 0 1
,, 1 dollar, ... ,,
18
Rigs-geld 1 skilling, ... fths of 0 1
,,
1 dollar, ... ,,
1 14.
Danish and Norwegian money may be exchanged in the large towns in
Sweden at a small discount. Swedish paper money will not be taken in Nor
way. As to the best mode of obtaining money from England, see General
Introduction under " Head 5 : Money."
Measures. Twelve inches make 1 foot, and 2 feet 1 ell. The Swedish foot
is equal to 0-974 English.
The Swedish mile is 11,700 Eng. yards, or 6J Eng. ms. and 40 yds. One
Swed. square mile is equal to 44 Eng. sq. ms. A Swed. tunneland comprises
05, 000 sq. feet ; and 32 tunnelands are equal to 39 Eng. acres.
Weights, from their variety in Sweden, are confusing. There are 4 kinds inuse.
1st. The Victualie vsegt, or provision weight,
2 Lods
make 1 TJns
8 Uns
... 1 Mark
2 Marks
... 1 Sk&lpund
20 Skalpunds ... 1 Lispund
20 Lispunds
... 1 Skippund.
2nd. The Bergs vsegt, or Miners' Weight. 3rd. The Vpstads vsegt, or In
land Town vsegt. And 4th. The Stapelstads vsegt, or Seaport Town weight.
The last is chiefly used in the iron trade. 'With relation to English weight,
avoirdupois, the above are
oz. dr.
1 Skalpund, Victualie vsegt.
15 0
1 Mark,
Bergs
,,
13 4
1 do.
Upstads
12 10
1 do.
Stapelstads ,,
10 0.
Sweden.
passports.modes of travelling, etc.
3. PASSPORTS. QUARANTINE.
The Swedish regulations, as regards passports, are now very liberal. Tra
vellers may enter the country under any passport, and even without the vise"
of a Swedish Minister, or Consul, but those who do so must then take and
pay for a Swedish passport, which costs 3 ds. 15 sk. rigs. Those who take
new passports are entitled to have their old ones returned to them. It is both
better and cheaper to have passports vise" by a Swedish Minister, or Consul,
before entering the country. A Norwegian visi will not entitle the bearer to
enter the Swedish territory ; and vice versd. No berths can be taken in any
of the steamers upon the Gotha Canal, or elsewhere, without the passport being
at the same time handed over, or a good reason assigned for not doing so. It is
retained by the captain of the vessel, and by him delivered to the authori
ties where the passenger lands.
Passports are seldom called for except in the large towns, where a small fee
of about 24 sk. rigs is payable for the vise".
The Swedish Quarantine laws are very strict, and great care must be taken
to avoid rendering oneself subject to them. Cholera is their greatest bugbear,
and the faintest suspicion of it will place the traveller in Quarantine for a
week or 10 days.
See also General Introduction under head 4, "Passports, and List of Am
bassadors," &c.
4. MODES OP TRAVELLINO, INNS, STEAMERS, OARRIAOES.
Modes of Travelling.Here, as in Norway, almost the only public convey
ances are the steamers, though there are now two railways in Sweden : one from
Orebro to Arboga on Route 67, with a branch from Dylta to Nora ; the other
connects Malmo and Lund, see Route 76. Besides these, there is a daily dili
gence to Upsala, and one twice a week to Helsingborg, vid Gottenburg. Post
ing is the usual mode of travelling, and the arrangements for that purpose
are very much upon the same plan as in Norway ; the expense is, however, a
shade less. The posting regulations and mode of sending Forbud will b
explained hereafter. The roads being kept in repair by the adjoining land
owners, render the tolls payable very small ; they are chiefly for bridges
and ferries.
Inns.Sweden is worse off for inns than Norway : but the hotels in Stock
holm have improved considerably of late years. As beds must almost invari
ably in the great towns be obtained in one hotel and dinners at another, the
best plan is, perhaps, to follow that adopted by the natives, of taking lodgings
in a private house. They may be obtained without difficulty in all the towns,
and are usually cheaper and more comfortable than the hotels. In the coun
try the keepers of the station-houses are bound to provide travellers with food
and lodging, as in Norway. The accommodations are usually very poor,
except in the towns, and travellers should therefore always be provided with a
286
REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING.
Sweden.
small stock of provisions to supply the place of the very scanty fare generally
met with. One great comfort in Sweden, however, is, that even at the
poorest stations the beds are almost always clean and good.
Steamers. Berths should be engaged as soon as possible, and particularly
by the boats upon the Gotha Canal, which are usually crowded. Sweden is
peculiarly adapted for steam navigation, and it is rapidly aiding to develope
^the resources of the country. The number of steamers is already consider
able, and is annually increasing. All the captains of these vessels speak
English ; and those belonging to the Government are commanded by officers in
the Royal Navy. The fares are very reasonable ; the cuisine moderately good,
but cheap in proportion. The greatest attention is paid to cleanliness and the
comfort of passengers, and the officers are obliging and attentive.
There are numerous lines of steamers from the Capital ; see Stockholm,
Route 60. Besides these, there are lines established between Westervik and
Wisbyfrom Ystad to Lubeck ; and Tstad to Stralsundfrom Malmo to
Copenhagenfrom Gottenburg to Frederickshaldto Christianiaito Copen
hagento Hull, Lubeck, and many other places. There is a small book pub
lished in Stockholm called " Svensk Angbats-Kalender," which gives all
information about the steamers, and the annual changes which have taken
place. It mustbe remembered that the steamers' days of sailing are frequently
altered, as the days lengthen and shorten : and travellers are warned to trust
to none but the latest published lists. This Handbook can do little more than
point out the lines of communication as they exist, without professing to be
able to give the correct days after the presenf year. Many of the private
steamers are advertised in the newspapers.
Carriages.The roads throughout the greater part of Sweden are excellent,
and so level as to admit of all sorts of carriages being used. But as some of
the cross roads are of deep sand, and the horses at times small, it is advisable
that the carriage taken should be light. Gentlemen will do well to travel in
the Norwegian carriole, which may usually be purchased either at Helsingborg,
or Gottenburg. Carriages and harness for one or two horses may be hired or
purchased in most of the towns. If hired, there should be a note of the
terms, in writing, with liberty for the traveller to purchase at a given price,
in ease he should alter his route or plans. For a long journey, it is better to
purchase a carriage and harness, which, if bought upon fair terms, may
usually be sold without difficulty at the end of the journey at a loss of from 20
te 40 per cent. A very good 4-wheeled carriage may be had for about 251. ;
a kind of gig for about 12?. ; and carriole, 6i. These are second-hand prices,
and include harness.
In travelling by land in Sweden, it becomes essential either to hire or pur
chase a carriage of some description, as the only vehicle supplied at the country
stations is a cart without springs. It is impossible to get along rapidly with
these carts ; and the jolting is so great, that, after the first day, it becomes
intolerable, even to the most hardy.
Sweden,
sending fokbud, posting eegulations, etc.
287
Those who intend to travel in Norway after leaving Sweden, should be par
ticularly cautious as regards the carriage they purchase in Sweden. See Nor
wegian Preliminary Information.
5. REQUISITES FOB TRAVELLING.
See Norway. The same observations, with few exceptions, apply to Sweden.
If it be not intended to travel in Norway, or by carriole, then the quantity
of baggage to be taken is not so material, although it is always most desirable
to have as little as possible. Neither is the description of carriage to be used
so important, from the more level nature of the country ; but as some of the
hills, though usually short, are steep, it is not safe to travel in a 4-wheeled
carriage without a drag-chain.
6. sending: FOKBUD, POSTING! regulations, etc.
Forbud. The same plan of posting with peasants' horses, and of sending
notices to the stations to have them in readiness, together with beds and food
for travellers, prevails in Sweden as in Norway. Where time is of much
importance it is always best to send Forbud, to guard against any delay. In
the S. of Sweden there are now many Fast Stations ; besides which, the
country is more thickly populated than in Norway, so that horses are generally
to be obtained without much delay, and particularly in the evening and during
the night. For this reason it is a common plan in the S. to save the expense
of the Forbud. A small Road Book, containing the names of the Stations,
and distances, is published at Stockholm, ' ' Bihang till Akrell's Eeskartor
ofver Sverige, af Gustaf Thomee. Stockholm, hos A. D. Bonnier."
Printed forms of trie Forbud papers are sold in the towns. With the aid
of the Norwegian Information and Swedish Vocabulary, &c, they may be
readily filled up with a little practice. The usual rate of travelling is about
1 Swed. m. an hour. In sending Forbud care should be taken to keep a list
of the Stations and hours at which horses have been ordered. Where con
venient it is always the best plan to start the Forbud over night.
Upon some of the roads Forbud papers may be sent by post, which is the
cheapest and best mode where there is no luggage to be forwarded by the Forbud
cart. The cost of sending a Forbud in the usual way is the same as for one
horse, and is paid for on arriving at each station.
Posting Regulations.The rates for posting have been raised of late. At
per horse per Swedish mile they are as follows :
Country Stations
24 sk. banco
Ditto Fast Stations .... 32
In the larger towns the rates vary considerably ; in some being 32 sk. per
mile, and in others much more. A gratuity of 3 sk. b. per horse per mile is
expected by the boy who accompanies them. With a carriage drawn by 1
horse only 1 person may travel ; with 2 horses 3 persons are allowed ; this is
288
TABLE OF PAYMENT FOR HOBSES.
Sweden.
exclusive of the postilion in each case. It is usnal to give the ostler at each
Station 2 sk. b. per horse.
Horses may he kept waiting 1 hour without any additional charge being
payable for them. For the time they are kept waiting beyond the expiration
of the first hour at which they were ordered, the party ordering them must pay
12 sk. b. per horse per hour. And after waiting 5 hours the horses may be
taken home. Travellers sometimes alter their route after sending Forbud ;
when this occurs the expense incurred can easily be calculated and paid through
the Post-office. It is most dishonourable not to do so : and it is equally
cruel and unjust to overdrive the horses, which, in summer, rarely get any
food but grass.
TABLE
O? PAYMENTS FOR HORSES CALCULATED AT THE USUAL RATE OF 24 SK3LLIS0S
BANCO PER HORSE PER MILE.
Distance.
1 Hone.
Da. Bco.
i Mile
i
j|
1J
n
is
H
1i
il ;;
Two ,,
2|
2J
2
2
2*
2
2t
Three
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Sk.
3
6
9
12
15
18
- 21
24
27
30
33
36
39
42
45
3
6
9
12
15
18
21
24
2 Horses.
Ds. Bco.
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
22
3
Sk.
6
12
18
24
30
36
42
"<5
12
18
24
30
36
42
6
12
18
24
80
36
42
8 Horses.
Ds. Bco.
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
2
3
3
3
3
3
3
4
4
4
Sk.
9
18
27
36
45
6
15
24
3342
3
12
21
30
39
9
18
27
36
45
6
15
24
N.B. Where the horses are from a Fast Station (that is where horses are
kept in readiness) at 32 sk. per mile, by adding one-third to either of the
above amounts the right sum will be given.
Sweden.
289
Swedish vocabulaey and dialogues.
As in Norway, the station-master or ostler, whose duty it is, nnder severe

penalties, to provide horses for travellers at the times they are ordered, has
considerable powers vested in him for the protection of the owners of the
horses, as well as of those who order them; he keeps a Day book (dagbok), in
which travellers must enter their names, &c, and the number of horses they
take. This book (which he is bound to produce) contains all the Government
Kegulations as to posting, with the distances upon each stage, and the sum to
be paid for each horse. This book is frequently inspected by the proper
authorities, and any complaint of parties being kept waiting for horses, or
other improper conduct on the part of the station-master or owners of the
horses, is punished with severity. Complaints should therefore be cautiously
made. Travellers are liable for any damage they may do to horses in over
driving them, or otherwise, and the station-master may refuse to let them have
fresh horses till the money is deposited with him. In any dispute about the
horses the station-master is the proper person to decide the question, and may
be relied upon to do justice.
7. SWEDISH VOCABULARY AND DIALOGUES;
THE NUMERALS.
1, en.
2, twa.
3, tre.
4, fyra.
5, fem.
6, sex.
7, s)u.
8, dtta.
9, nio.
10, tio.
11, elfvia.
12, tolv.
13, tretton.
14, fjorton.
15, femton.
16, sexton.
Sunday
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
17, sjutton.
18, aderton.
19, nitton.
20, tiugu.
21, tiuguetl.
22, tiugutwa, &c.
30, trettio.
40, fyratio.
50, femtio.
60, sextio.
70, sjuttio.
80, attatio.
90, nittio.
100, ett hundrade.
200, twa hundrade.
1000, ett tusende.
DATS OP THE WEEK.

Thursday
SSndag.
Friday
Mandag.
Saturday
Tisdag.
Onsdag.
Thorsdag.
Fredag.
LSrdag.
o
290
January
February
March
April
May
June
SWEDISH VOCABULARY AND DIALOGUES.
Januari.
Februari.
Mars.
April.
Maji.
Juni.
Months.
July
August
September
October
November
December
VOCABULARY.
Candle
Igen.
Again
Hjelp.
Cap
Aid
Capercali
01.
Ale
Carriage
All.
All
Och.
ChanAnd
Answer
Svar.
Cheese
Arm
Arm.
Clean
Bort.
Away
Coat, great
Axel-tree
Axel, Hjul-axel.
Coat
Ba6k (return) Tillbaka.
Coffee
Bag
Sack.
Collar, horse.
Barley
Korn, Bjugj,I.
Come, to
Bjbrn.
Bear
Cook, to
Sang.
Bed
Coverlid
Dricka.
Beer
Cream
Best
Bast.
Cup
Battre.
Better
Danger
Daughter
Bill, the
Rakningen.
Bird
Fogd.
Day-book
Dinner
Black cock
Orre.
Bat.
Do, to
Boat
Boil, to
Koka.
Dog
Door
Gosse.
Boy
Drink money
Boy that goes )
Eat, to
with horses I Skjvtsbonde.
Branvin.
Eel
Brandy '
BrBd.
Bread
Egg
Frukost.
Early
Breakfast
Elk
Betsel.
Bridle
Fall, to
Spanne.
Buckle
Far
Butter
SmSr.
Farm-house
By-way
Bivag.
Farrier
Call, to
Kalla.
Sweden.
Jvli.
Augusti.
September.
October.
November.
December.
Ljus.
Mbssa. ^
Tjader'
Vagn.
Rbding.
Ost.
Fen.
Ofverrock.
Rock, Frack.
Kaffe.
Loka.
Komma.
Koka.
Sangtdcke.
Griidde.
Kopp.
Fara.
Batter.
Dagbok.
Middag.
GSra.
Hwnd.
Dorr.
Drickspenningar.
Spisa, Ata.
Al.
Agg.
Tidig.
Fig.
FalUt.
L&ngt.
Bondg&rd.
Hofslagare.
Sweden.
Ferry
Field
Fire
Fish
Fish, to
Fishing line
Fishing rod
Fly
Fork
Fox
Game
Get, to
Girl
Girth
Give, to
Glass
Go, to
Grass
Grayling
Gun
Gunpowder
Hair, the
Ham
Hand
Hand, right
Hand, left
Handkerchief
Hare
Harness
Hasel-hen
Hat
Hay
Herring
Hill
Hook
Horse
Hour
Husband
Immediately
Ink
Inn
Interpreter
Island
Keep, to
Swedish vocabulary and dialogues.

Fdrja.
Aker, Mark.
Eld.
Ftik.
Fiska.
Metref.
MetspS.
Fluga.
Gaffel.
Rdf.
VildbrM.
F&.
Flicka.
Saddelgjord.
Gifva.
Glas.
Gd.
Grds.
Harr.
Skjvtgevdr.
Krut.
Hard.
Skinka.
Hand.
Hoger hand.
Venster hand.
Ndsduk.
Hare.
Harnesk.
Hjerpe.
Halt.
HS.
Sill.
JBacke.
Krok.
Host.
Timme.
Man.
Genast.
Skrifbldck.
Vdrdshus.
ToUc.
0.
Hitta.
Knife
Lady
Lady (young)
Lake
Large
Lay, to
Lead
Man
Many
Me
Meat
Milk
Mine
Money
Much
Mustard
Near
Net
Night-lodging
No
Nobody
Nothing
Now
Oar
Of
Oil
Once
Our
Over
Paper
Partridge
Pay, to
Pen
Pepper
Perch
Pike or Jack
Portmanteau
Port-wine
Post-Office
Potatoes
Ptarmigan
Ready
Eed deer
Reel
Knif.
Fru.
FrBken.
SjS.
Stor.
Ligga.
Sly.
Man.
Manga.
Mig.
Km.
MjsVc.
Min.
Penningar.
Mycket.
Senap.
Ndra.
Not.
Natlldger.
Nej.
Ingen.
Intet.
Nu.
Ara.
Af.
Olja.
En gang.
Vdr.
Ofver.
Papper.
FapphSna.
Betala.
Penna.
Peppar.
Aborre.
Gddda.
Kappsack.
Port-vin.
Post-Konlor.
Potates.
Snoripa.
Fardig.
S&djwr.
Hdrfvel.
0 2
291
292
Reindeer
Reins
Return, to
Ride, to
River
Road
Room
Row, to
Rower
Rye
Safe
Saddle
Salmon
Salt
Shafts, the
Shall
Shallow
Sheets, the
Shoe (horse)
Shoes
Small
Snipe
Soap
Son
Speak, to
Spoon
Stage
Steamer
SWEDISH VOCABULARY AND DIALOGUES.

Ren.
Tmmar.
Resa tilbaka.
Rida.
Strm, Flod, Elf.
Vg.
Rum.
Ro.
Roddare.
Rg.
Sker.
Sadel.
Lax.
Salt.
1 Tistel-stong,
i Vagnslistel.
Skall.
Grundt.
Lakan.
Sko.
Skor.
Liten.
Beckasin.
Tvl.
Son.
Tala.
Sked.
Skjutshll.
ngfartyget.
Stirrups
Strap
Sugar
Supper
Table
Take, to
Tea
To-day
To-morrow
Towel
Town
Travel, to
Trout
Trowsers
Under
Vinegar
Water
Waterfall
Wheel
Whip
Wife
Window
Wine
Wine, white
Wood (forest)
Woodcock
Yes
Yesterday
Sweden.
Stigbogel.
Stropp.
Socker.
Qvoellsvard.
Bord.
Taga.
The.
Idag.
Imorgen.
Handduk.
Stad.
Resa.
Lax-ring.
Byxor.
Under.
CEttika.
Vatten.
Vattenfall.
Hjul.
Piska.
Hustru.
Fnster.
Vin.
Hwitt-vin.
Skog.
Morkulla.
Ja.
Igr.
DIALOOUES.
Good morning, Sir, Madam.
How are you ?
I hope you are quite well to-day.
Very well, I thank you.
Good evening.
Good-bye ; farewell.
Do you speak English ?
A little. Not at all.
I can read, but not speak.
God morgon min herre, min fru.

Hur str det till 1
Jag hoppas ni mr alldedes bra i
dag.
Rtt bra, jag tackar.
God afton.
Adieu ; farvl.
Talar Ni Engelska !
Ngot litet. A lldedes icke.
Jag lser sprket, men kan ei tala
det.
Sweden.
DIALOGUES.
Do you understand me ?
I speak Swedish very badly.
Speak more slowly.
What o'clock is it?
How do you call that in Swedish 1
Where are you going to ?
Stay a little longer.
It is impossible ; I am very sorry
for it, I assure you.
When shall I see you again ?
At what o'clock ?
What day ? In the morning or even
ing ?
How many miles is it from here
to .... ?
Is the road good ?
Are there any good inns upon the
road ?
Hare you performed this journey be
fore ?
Are the roads safe t
You must bespeak horses.
Have you horses at hand ?
Put them to immediately.
How much must one pay for each
horse ?
I shall perform the journey on horse
back.
I shall perform the journey on foot.
What might the expense of a return
chaise come to ?
Can you not drive faster, postilion ?
Drive slower.
There is no danger.
Drive me to the best inn in the town.
How much am I to pay you for this
stage ?
When shall we go on board ?
How much does a place in the vessel
cost?
How much must one pay for the pas
sage ?
293
Frstr Ni mig vl ?
Jag talar rtt illa Svenska.
Tala litet mera lngsamt.
Hvad klockan ?
Huru kallar Ni detta p Svenska t
Hvart gr Ni t
Stanna nnu ngot litet.
Det r mig omjligt ; jar r rtt
ledsen derfver, det frskrar jag
Er.
Nr terser jag Er I
Vid hvilken tid t
Hiilken dag i P morgonen eller
aftonen 1
Huru mnga mil,har man hrifrn
till ... .1
r vgen god ?
Finner man goda vrdshus p denna
vgt
Har ni frut gjort denna resa 1
Aro vgarna skra f
Du mste bestlla hstar.
Har ni hstar inne i
Stt fr genast.
Huru mycket br man betala fr
hvarje Itst i
Jag rnar rida.
Jag rnar resa till fots.
Hvad kan det kosta mig att resa med
terskjuts 1
Kan du icke kra fortare, skjuts~
bonde!
Kr saklare.
Det r ingen fara.
Kr till det bsta vrdshuset i staden.
Huru mycket skall jag betala er fr
delta hllet t
Nr skall man g om bord t
Huru mycket kostar en plals p detta
fartyg t
Huru mycket mste man betala fr
fverfarten 1
294
DIALOGUES.
Ia this the inn ?

Take these things up-stairs.
Can we have good beds ?
I hope they are not damp.
I want a bedroom and a parlour.
Open the door.
Bring me a night-lamp.
Bring us some water ; a pitcher of
water.
Can I have a pail to bathe my feet
in?
Call us at seven to-morrow morning,
and let the horses be ready by
eight.
Good night.
What can I have to eat ?
Have you anything ready ?
Let me see the bill of fare.
Ia the wine good ?
How much is it the bottle ?
What meat have you ?
Have you any game ?
Have you any river or sea fish ?
Sweden.
r detta gstgifvareg&rden ?
Tag upp dessa saker i fra vningen.
Kunna vi f goda sngar t
Jag hoppas de icke ro fuletiga.
Jag behbfver en sngkammare, och ett
frmak.
ppna drren.
Gif mig en natt-lampa.
Skaffa oss en handkanna.
Kan jag ett embar vatten fr at tvtta

ftterna ?
Vck oss klockan sju i morgon bittida,
och lt hstarne vara frdig klokken tta.
God natt.
Hvad kan jag f att ta i
Har ni ngonting frdigt t
Lt mig se matsedeln.
r vinet godt ?
Huru mycket fr bnteljin t
Hvad lttrtter har ni i
Har ni vildt t
Har nifrskvattenfisk, eller saltvatten
#?
Vid hvad timma vill ni spisa mid
At what hour will yom dine ?
dag i
At two o'clock.
Klockan tw.
Gif mig rkningen.
Give me the bill.
Huru mycket skall ni hafva t
How much are you to receive ?
Skningen r icke riktig.
The bill is not right.
Det r mycket dyrt.
That is too dear.
I will not give any more.
Jag gifver icke mra.
Kan jag f en Commissionaire!
Can I get a Commissioner ?
Is an interpreter to be had ?
Kan man f en tolk i
r posthuset lngt hrifrn !
Is the Post-Office far from hence ?
Harjag brefl
Are there any letters for me ?
How much is there to pay for franking Huru mycket betaler man fr att
frankera ett brefi
a letter?
I have no change in copper money Jag har icke ngra lospenninger
Jag har inga smsedler.
I have no change in paper money.
Var s god att visa mig vgen.
Be so good as to tell me the way.
Sweden.
SCENERY AND SKETCHING.ANGLING.
8. SCENERY AND SKETCHING.

The Bcenery in Sweden has but little attraction when compared with the wild
grandeur of Norway. Portions of the country are very pleasing, but in many
parts it is excessively monotonous, from the vast tracts of level ground and
enormous fir and pine forests. The most picturesque parts are upon the
Southern borders of Norway, between Gottenburg and the frontier, Rtes. 69
and 77 ; the Gotha Canal, Rte. 63 ; Dalecarlia, Rte. 62 ; and the environs of
Stockholm.
Sketching. The materials obtainable in Stockholm cannot be depended
upon. All that may be required should therefore be taken from England.
See also Norwegian information. Upon the whole, Sweden offers but little for
the pencil, except to the pure landscape-painter, to whom the broken rocky
ground, richly wooded, and interspersed with lakes, affords an endless variety
of subjects of woodland scenery. The best will perhaps be found in the
environs of Stockholm and upon Rte. 62. There is not much costume amongst
the peasants, except in Dalecarlia, where the dress of the women is highly
picturesque. Stockholm, Gottenburg, &c, afford a few pleasing subjects, but
none of the Swedish towns are very promising. Of the peasants' houses,
those in Dalecarlia are the most picturesque. Sweden is unusually poor in
marine subjects. Her craft have as little attractions as her coast, which,
throughout its great length, is low, rocky, and unpleasing in outline. The sun
sets are often remarkably fine.
9. ANGLING.
The varieties of fish in the Swedish rivers and lakes are as great as in those
of Norway, and fish appear to be equally abundant. For salmon, the only
good stream on the W. coast of Sweden is the Falkenberg, Rte. 77 ; but the
water there suitable for angling is very limited in extent, and private property.
From Helsingborg to Stockholm there are no salmon streams ; but N. of
Stockholm, and all along the Swedish side of the Gulf of Bothnia, they
become very numerous and abound with salmon. The salmon, however, in
these rivers are very shy of taking a fly : and those which have been tried
have, almost without exception, turned out failures. The popular belief is
that the salmon in them do not, in leaving the rivers, get further than the
Gulf of Bothnia, the waters of which are brackish, and that consequently
they do not attain that high degree of condition which fish on the coasts of
Norway and elsewhere reach on leaving the salt waters of the ocean. The best
trout-fishing in most of the streams falling into the Gulf of Bothnia is to be
obtained at some distance up them from the coast, and the great drawback is
the wretched accommodation met with at the peasants' houses. A tent and
Btock of provisions become almost indispensable. Trout, in the Wenern
Lake, attain an enormous size, 30 lbs. weight and upwards. The streams
290
SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF SWEDEN.
Sweden.
falling into this lake and the Giita Elv, which flows from it, afford good fish
ing. The trout in the Wettern also attain a great weight. The Dalecarlian
rivers, upon Rte. 62, are highly spoken of. Char, in the mountain lakes,
take the fly well.
As regards the best time for fishing in Swedenin the S. , the rivers are
usually in a fit state about the middle or end of May ; in the N. , and
particularly those falling into the Gulf of Bothnia, they are at least a month
later.
See also Observations on Angling in Norway, particularly as to flies and
other tackle, which equally apply to Sweden.
10. SHOOTING AND GAME LAWS.
Game is not abundant in Sweden, as it was formerly ; but the true sports
man may still find ample occupation. All kinds of game and wild beasts found
in Norway are also met with in Sweden, where, from the forests being more
extensive, the bear, elk, and red deer appear to be more numerous than in
Norway, and ptarmigan far more abundant in the mountains. For general
shooting the mountains all along the Norwegian frontier, and particularly the
wild country lying between the Klar and East Dal Rivers, upon Rte. 62, are
highly spoken of. Ptarmigan are most numerous in the mountains of Swedish
Lapland. And upon the rivers and lakes there, as well as upon the banks of
the Wenern and Wettern Lakes, the wild-fowl shooting is excellent.
See also Norwegian information as to shooting. The Game Laws in Sweden
are upon much the same plan as those of Norway with respect to the periods
at which game of various kinds may be killed, penalties, &c.
11. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF SWEDEN.
Deprived of Finland, Pomerania, &c. , the Swedish territories are now com
prised in the eastern side of the Scandinavian peninsula and several islands in
the Baltic, the chief of which are Oland and Gottland ; the latter is large and
highly interesting from the numerous churches of the 11th and 12th centuries
which it contains (see Rte. 60). The extreme length of Sweden is about 930
Eng. m., by an average width of 190 ; with the islands, its area is about
170,700 Eng. sq. m.
Sweden is divided into 3 principal regions : Norrland, which comprises Gefle
and all the provinces to the N. of that up to the Tornea ; Sweden proper,
which includes the central provinces ; and Gothaland, those in the S.
The Scandinavian peninsula rises gradually from the W. coast of the Baltic
and Gulf of Bothnia, until it reaches its highest elevation in the great moun
tain chain, which, for a long distance, divides Sweden from Norway. Upon the
whole, and particularly in the southern parts of Sweden, it is a level country ;
Sweden.
SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF SWEDEN
297
there are, however, numerous ranges of high ground and detached hills of
considerable elevation. The highest point in Sweden does not exceed 6350
feet, and this is only in the mountains upon the frontier of Norway. The
southern provinces consist for the most part of sandy plains, interspersed with
numerous lakes and hills. The central region contains extensive plateaux of
table land, with large tracts of forest. The N. part is mountainous, with deep
valleys, vast forests, and sandy wastes.
" From North Cape to the southward and east, the Lapland highlands are a
system spreading to- the head of the Gulf of Bothnia, which, in connection
with the high mountain chain of Scandinavia, once formed a great island, the
Scanza of Jornandes ; the Gulf of Bothnia and White Sea being connected
as late as 1450, by the Kitkacerva, and probably also by the Ulea lakes. At
the summit of the Gulf of Bothnia, it had long been observed that the sea
was retiring by slow degrees, not so much from the effects of fresh-water
deposits, as by a progressive rising of the submarine floor ; for many outlying
rocks, known from ancient times by distinct names, and sung in Runic ballads
for being the basking- bed of seals, where daring hunters acquired celebrity in
their pursuit, had risen above water beyond the reach of their ancient visitors ;
parts of the gulf, which half a century before had been crossed in boats by the
French academicians, were converted into permanent meadow land ; and more
minute research disclosed at a distance inland successive lines of beach, each
provided with a bed of shells in a very recent state. From these the sea had
evidently receded, according to the changes which an upheaving motion of the
land, proceeding from the north, effected on the levels ; and corresponding
-raised beaches have since been observed by Mr Bravais, on the opposite
declivity of the Lapland system, near Alten, which show, by being at a greater
elevation, the acting forces to be most powerful on the Polar side. In 1700,
with a view of settling the question, copper bolts were driven in several rocks
at the mean sea level : and subsequent investigation substantiates that the
rising progress is greatest in the north, being at the summit of the Gulf of
Bothnia at the rate of feet in a century ; decreasing to one foot at Stock
holm ; and on the German shore of the Baltic at 0, or as we think declining.
These researches were earned out by Davis, Hellant, Cydenius, Klingius,
Rudman, &c. ; they terminated in 1827. Several French philosophers have
made later researches and oonfirmed the progress. See Hel. de Beaumont,
Mem. Acad, des Sciences de Paris. "Nat. Hist, of the Human Species, by
Lieut. -Col. C. H. Smith, p. 55.
Lakes and Rivers.The peculiar feature in Swedish scenery is the extent
and number of the lakes in the S. and central parts. Of these, the Wenern
and the Wettern are the largest ; the former is upwards of 90 Eng. m. in
length, and the latter 86. The Malar Lake, which adjoins Stockholm, is also
of great extent. The whole of these lakes, with several smaller ones, are
included in Rte. 63. In the central and northern parts there are several con
siderable rivers. Of these, the largest are the Dal, Rte. 62, the Indal,
HISTORrCAIi NOTICE.
Sweden.
Angerman, UmeA, Pitefl, and Tornea, whose lengths average from 230 to 290
Eng. m. All these rivers rise in the mountains, and in their course form
numerous grand falls and cataracts.
Oeology. Granite and gneiss are the prevailing rocks, particularly the
former ; gneiss being much less abundant in Sweden than in Norway. Mica
slate is also very common, and contains the greater number of metalliferous
beds met with in Sweden. It often alternates with vast beds of primitive
limestone, quartz, &c. These, with a few others, form the primitive rocks.
The transition include conglomerate and sandstone, with transition porphyry,
limestone, and trap. The secondary comprise secondary sandstone and chalk.
Extensive tertiary and alluvial deposits also occur.
Mineralogy.Sweden is particularly rich in her mineral products. Of
these her mines of copper and of iron are the most productive and celebrated.
Some of the largest are included in Rte. 62. The porphyry quarries at Elfdal,
upon the same Route, are remarkable for the number and beauty of the
specimens found there. Cobalt, zinc, lead, silver, gold, &c., are likewise met
with in Sweden. Coal has only been discovered in the S. , near Helsingborg,
and it is of very inferior quality.
The Forests of Sweden cover 4-7ths of the whole surface of the country.
These are chiefly of pine and fir ; but in the N. the birch grows in great
abundance. In the centre the pine and fir are intermixed with ash,
willow, linden, and maple ; and in the S. with oak, beech, yoke-elm, &c.
The Climate, from the great extent of the country, of course varies con
siderably. Upon the whole it is less mild than those parts of Norway which
in the same latitude lie upon the western side of the great Scandinavian chain
of mountains. In the N. the whole surface of the country is covered with
snow and ice for five or six months in the year, and even in the central and
southern parts the lakes and rivers are frozen from October to April. Vegeta
tion bursts forth so rapidly in the spring, thatthe snow has scarcely disappeared
before the great variety of Scandinavian flowers appear in all their loveliness.
For this reason the month of May is the most delightful in the S. and centre
of Sweden. The weather, both in summer and winter, is steadier than in
England. The mean annual temperature at Stockholm is 41.93 Fahr. ; dur
ing the 6 winter months, 29.4. The warm summers, and cold but dry
winters, are very enjoyable. At Stockholm the longest day is 184 n-> an<i tne
shortest nearly 6.
The Population, according to the last census of 1855, was 3,641,600 ; an
increase of 408,430 since 1844.
There are four great periods in Swedish history : first, during the Pagan
age, from the earliest times to the end of the 10th century ; 2nd, from the
establishment of Christianity as the religion of the country, in the com
Sweden.
HISTORICAL NOTfCE.
299
mencement of the 11th century, to the accession of Gustavus Wasa in 1523 ;

3rd, her glorious age under the Wasa dynasty, and their immediate successors,
to the battle of Pultawa, in 1709 ; and, 4th, from that time to the present.
The early history of Sweden is even more obscure than that of Norway or
Denmark. Scandinavia generally is noticed by Pliny, Tacitus, and other
authors of high antiquity ; but the most authentic records which exist respect
ing it appear to be those compiled in the 12th century by Saxo Grammaticus,
in Denmark, and Snorro Sturleson in Iceland.
These latter, and other sources, show that the leading historical event of
interest in the early history of Sweden, was the migration there of the Sviar, or
Swedes, under Odin. This is supposed to have taken place at no distant
period antecedent to the invasion of England by the Saxons. These Sviar were
a part of the great Gothic tribe who had long before settled in the S. part of
the country. The empire founded by Odin in Sweden was originally confined
to a small territory around the Malar Lake, of which he made Sigtuna the
capital. There he caused temples to be erected, and sacrifices to be offered at
stated periods. Thence his authority and his worship ultimately became
established, and the Sviar, as the leading tribe, governed by the pontiff kings,
the immediate descendants of Odin, gradually acquired an ascendancy over the
Goths who inhabited the S. of Sweden, but who always remained a separate
people, electing their own king.
Odin was a conqueror, a king, a priest, a lawgiver, and an adept in the
superstitious practices of his age. Endued with commanding talents and
boundless ambition, he availed himself of the veneration in which he was
held, and attributed his power to the peculiar favour of the gods, from whom
he boasted of his descent. Esteemed as the god of war, his worship finally
prevailed throughout the N. of Europe.
The various traditions of the Scandinavians as to their religion during the
Pagan ages, of the creation of the universe, and of their mythology, have
been carefully collected and preserved in the Sagas which exist, by Snorro
Sturleson and others, and are of great interest. Niord succeeded his father,
Odin, as prophet, priest, and king, and was followed by his son, Freyer, who
removed his capital from Sigtuna to Upsala, where he built a temple, which
became the most celebrated spot for Pagan worship in the North. Freyer's
surname of Yngve became the proudest distinction of his descendants, who
were thenceforth called Ynylinger. The dynasty of this sacred race, as it is
called, ended with Olaf Trsetelia, who, upon the invasion of Sweden by Ivar
Vidfadme, left the country, about 630 B.C., and laid the foundation of a new
power in Norway. But very few members of the dynasty of the Ynglings died
a natural death. Most of them fell in battle, or by their own hands, or were
murdered by their subjects ; and one of them, Domald, was sacrificed on
Odin's altar, to propitiate the gods in a year of famine.
Upon the conquest of Sweden by Ivar, he united in himself the crowns of
that kingdom as well as of Gottland and Denmark. He was also of Odin's
300
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
Sweden.
race, being descended from Skjold, whose seat was in Zealand. The dynasty
of the Skjoldungs, founded in Sweden by Ivar, continued to prevail through
out the rest of the Pagan age, and even beyond it, to the middle of the 11th
century. Throughout this period the people appear to hare been continually
engaged in piratical expeditions, and in war with each other or the neighbour
ing States.
Christianity appears to have been first openly preached in Sweden by St.
Ausgar, during the reign of Bjorn I., in the 9th century; but the long line of
Sweden's Pagan kings only terminated with Eric V., in 1001, who, having em
braced Christianity, in his zeal to promote it, caused the great temple at
Upsala to be destroyed, an act which cost him his life from the fury of the
populace. His successor, Olaf Skot-Konung, or the Tributary, because he
sanctioned a yearly tribute to the Pope, established three bishoprics, and suc
ceeded in obtaining a preponderance to the Christian religion. From his
death, in 1026, Sweden may, therefore, be regarded as a Christian State,
although Paganism still lingered in the country for long afterwards.
During nearly the whole of the first three centuries of the Christian era in
Sweden, continued disputes and warfare arose between the Swedes and Goths
for the possession of the two crowns. These dissensions ultimately terminated
in favour of the Swedes, whose sovereigns assumed the title which is in use
at the present time "King of the Swedes and Goths." During the regency
of Birger JarL which commenced in 1250, Stockholm wasfounded and fortified,
the written laws of the kingdom revised, and the internal administration
greatly improved. Sweden's greatest king during the Middle ages was Magnus
1., who reigned 15 years, from 1275. Prior to his accession the country had
been continually distracted by intestine commotions, and the despotic conduct
of the nobles was most oppressive upon the peasants. His wisdom, firmness,
and justice enabled him to crush these disorders, and to bestow upon his sub
jects the blessings of tranquillityand order. During the reign of his successor,
Birger, his able and patriotic minister, Thorkil, caused a law to be passed
against the sale of slaves, on the ground that it was in the highest degree
criminal for Christians to sell men whom Christ had redeemed by his blood.
This noble truth Sweden has the immortal honour of having promulgated and
established in the early part of the 14th century ; a truth which was not prac
tically recognised in England with respect to the Negro race for upwards of
400 years afterwards, and which still remains to be acted upon by the United
States and other nations professing Christianity. The dissensions which again
distracted the country after the death of Magnus, finally terminated in 1389
by the defeat and capture of the Swedish king, Albert, and the crown of the
Swedes and Goths being united with those of Denmark and Norway upon the
brow of Margaret, known as the Semiramis of the North. It was, however,
not until several years after this event that all Sweden was finally reduced to
her sway. In 1397 she convoked the States, and caused the celebrated com
pact to be entered into between Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, known as the
Sweden.
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
301
Treaty of Kalmar. The leading objects wereto maintain the union in

perpetuity of the three kingdoms under one Bceptre ; to preclude either of
them from making war upon the other; and to form an alliance defensive
and offensive in the event of war with any foreign power. Margaret was
succeeded, in 1412, by Eric of Pomerania, who married Philippa, daughter of
Henry IV. of England. During the king's absence in Sweden she heroically
and successfully defended Copenhagen, when besieged in 1428. The Union of
Kalmar was maintained with difficulty for little more than a century ; the flames
of discord which arose from it in Sweden were for a moment quenched in the
blood of numbers of her most illustrious citizens, who were massacred by the
orders of Christian II. , under circumstances of the greatest treachery and barbarity. Amongst the slain was Eric Wasa, a senator, and of an ancient family
in Sweden. But his son, Gustavus Ericson Wasa, lived to avenge his father's
blood and his own wrongs, and, by his courage and commanding talents, to found
a new dynasty. After incurring the greatest dangers and hardships in Dalecarlia, he at length succeeded in rousing the people to take arms against their
oppressors, and under his guidance the Danes were finally driven out in 1523.
At a meeting of the States in the same year he was elected king, and with
that election terminated the fatal Union of Kalmar.
The accession of Gustavus Wasa to the throne formed a new era of the
highest importance in the history of Sweden. The leading feature in the
records of the country throughout the Middle ages, was the frequent struggles
of the people to regain that power and influence which their ancestors had en
joyed under the free institutions of the Pagan age; and which had been
gradually encroached upon by the nobles, the clergy, and the crown. Gustavus
owed his elevation to the people. The power and influence of the nobles and
of the clergy, and the great wealth of the latter, were amongst the first
objects to command his attention. Policy, and also conviction, speedily made
him a convert to the doctrines of Luther; and at a convocation of the States
in 1527, after exposing the abuses of the Romish Church, he succeeded in
obtaining an Act which, in effect, abolished the Roman Catholic as the national
faith, as it gave the crown unlimited power over the church and its property.
At one blow Gustavus swept away two-thirds of her revenues, most of which
he annexed to the crown, or distributed amongst his supporters and the nobles
whom it was his interest to conciliate. In 1529 the States formally declared
the Romish faith to be abolished, and that the Lutheran should become the
established religion of the country. Thenceforth the whole efforts of Gustavus
were directed to the consolidation of his power ; and while his extraordinary
ability and industry enabled him to develope the resources of the country to an
astonishing extent, he at the same time crushed all opposition as it arose, and
eventually succeeded in establishing a despotism unexampled in the annals of the
nation. In 1544 he prevailed on the States to decree the crown hereditary in
his family. He was thrice married, and died in 1560, in his 76th year. He
was buried in the Cathedral at Upsala, and his memory is held in the greatest
302
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
Sweden.
veneration by the Swedes as the founder of the most glorious period of their
history.
Gustavus was succeeded by his eldest son, Eric XIV., who was alike wanting
in the courage and abilities of his father. After soliciting the hands of our
Queen Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, a Princess of Lorraine, and also of
Hesse, he ended his matrimonial projects by marrying his mistress, who was
the daughter of a peasant. His stormy aud cruel reign was terminated in
1568, when he was deposed by his brother John, and by whose orders he was
finally made to swallow poison, after an imprisonment of ten years.
During the reign of John unsuccessful efforts were made by him to induce
the people to return to the Romish faith. He married Catherine, the daughter
of Sigismund II. of Poland. Their son, Sigismund, became King of Poland,
and he, upon the death of John in 1592, also inherited the crown of Sweden.
By his own imprudence in attempting to force the Romish faith upon the
people, and the cunning and violence of his uncle John, his short reign of eight
years was terminated in 1600, by the States renouncing their allegiance to
the king, and he and his descendants became excluded from the crown.
Sigismund was succeeded by his uncle, Charles IX. ; devoid of military
talent, and every good quality, he ended his short but disastrous reign in
1611.
To his son and successor, Gustavus II. , usually known as Gustavus Adolphus,
and grandson of Gustavus Wasa, it was reserved to raise the martial glory of
Sweden to a point it had never before attained. Elevated to the throne at
the early age of 18, but gifted with principles, firmness, and military genius of
the highest order, he speedily attracted the attention of all Europe. Victorious
alike in Denmark, Poland, and Russia, in 1628 he was invited by Protestant
Europe to place himself at its head, in order to arrest the vast scheme of
Austria, to restore the Papal supremacy throughout Christendom. His career
of glory justified their choice, and it only terminated with his death at the
battle of Luteen in 1632. Gustavus was succeeded by his infant daughter,
Christina, then only six years old ; but the high political and military position
which their late adored king had enabled them to take was nobly maintained
by the gallant Swedes, under the able statesmen and generals who had been
brought up in his school. The Thirty Years' War was at length terminated
by the peace of Westphalia in 1648. That treaty was most glorious for
Sweden, whom the war had raised from an obscure State to one of the first
of European kingdoms. The licentious reign of Christina terminated in 1654,
by her voluntary abdication in favour of her cousin (the son of her father's
sister by the Count Palatine), and, after abjuring the Protestant faith, she
ended her scandalous career at Rome, a career which her father's memory
induces the Swedes to regard with too much indulgence.
During his short reign of six years Charles X., sumamed Gustavus, was
continually involved in war. Possessed of the greatest military talents, and
desirous of emulating the glorious reign of his heroic uncle, his disputes with
Sweden.
HISTOKICAL NOTICE.
303
Poland, Russia, and Denmark successively involved Sweden in wars with

those and other countries. His daring act of crossing with his army upon the
ice of the Great and Little Belts, during the winter of 1657 is one of the
most daring military feats upon record, and it enabled him to dictate his own
terms to the Danes at the gates of their capital. But the success which
attended his arms was not continuous, and he died young in 1660. In com
pliance with his wishes, peace was concluded, upon honourable terms, soon
after his death, with all the enemies of Sweden ; and a period of repose
at length was obtained to recruit her exhausted resources. By the Swedes
Charles X. is justly esteemed one of their greatest kings, and his untimely
death as the most severe blow that the national interests have ever sustained.
His son and successor, Charles XI., reigned 37 years. During his minority
peace was maintained, but from 1672 the country was continually involved in
wars, which crippled her energies, and were disastrous to her interests.
Nominally, the power of the Swedish kings had been very limited ; all the
most important acts of government resting with the senate or diet. Much
depended upon the personal character of the sovereign ; the enterprising and
successful ruled with absolute authority, while those less fortunate were com
pelled to bend to the voice of the diet. In the time of Charles XI. , the liberties
of the burghers and the peasantry had become crushed by the aristocracy,
who in their turn were trampled upon by the crown ; the king having in 1693
obtained from the diet a decree which gave him absolute powera decree
which, under his son and successor, Charles XII., plunged Sweden into an
abyss of ruin. His reign commenced in 1697. Invested with absolute sove
reignty at the early age of 16, Russia, Poland, and Denmark combined to
strip him of a large portion of his dominions. The martial character of
Charles XII. instantly displayed itself ; inured to the hardest exercises and
humblest fare, he assumed the command of his troops and led them to a suc
cession of triumphs, in which he crushed his enemies in detail, and with a
rapidity before unheard of in the annals of war. Intoxicated with success,
and in opposition to the counsel of his ablest advisers, he determined upon
the conquest of Russia, where his splendid army was finally destroyed at
Pultowa in 1709, and he with difficulty escaped into Turkey. With the
destruction of the Swedish armies in Russia in 1709 the glorious period of
Swedish history ends, as she thenceforth sunk into a second-rate power.
Charles remained in Turkey nearly five years, during which almost all his
dominions E. of the Baltic had been wrested from him by his enemies. The
career of this heroic visionary ended with his being assassinated during his
siege of Frederikshald in 1719.(Geyer's Histoire de Suede, p. 500.) Upon
the death of Charles, the senate abolished the despotism of the crown and
elected his sister, Ulrica Eleonora (consort of the Prince of Hesse), as queen,
upon her engaging to guarantee the new constitution which was framed. The
crown was again made elective, its powers placed under the control of the diet,
and the aristocracy regained a restoration of their ancient rights. By negotia
Sweden.
HISTORICAL NOTICE.
304
tion peace was obtained for Sweden, and a portion of her territories E. of the
Baltic was restored. In 1720 the queen resigned and the senate elected her
husband Frederic I. During his reign war again ensued with Russia. At
his death Adolphus Frederic was, in 1751, elected, in whose reign a disas
trous war with Prussia occurred, and the internal repose of the country was
continually disturbed by troubles, fomented by Russia and France, the crown
and the diet mutually striving for supremacy. Upon the death of Adolphus
Frederic in 1771, he was succeeded by his son Gustavus III., who was heroic,
enterprising, and a patron of literature, science, and the arts. Under the
guns of his soldiers he succeeded in obtaining a new constitution from the
diet, which placed the powers of the crown upon a more just footing ; but
much dissension and dissatisfaction prevailed, and in 1792 he was assassinated
at a ball at the opeTa-house. The reign of his unfortunate, capricious, and
obstinate son, Gustavus IV., involved the country in war with France and
her allies, which resulted in the final dismemberment of two of Sweden's
finest provinces, Finland and Fomerania. The distress and discontent
entailed by the continued disasters of the Swedish arms ended in a conspiracy ;
in 1808 the king was arrested, forced to abdicate, and the diet excluded his
issue from the throne. He was subsequently allowed to quit Sweden with his
family.
His treacherous uncle, the Duke of Sodermania, was raised to the throne in
1809 as Charles XIII., and a new constitution, enlarging the powers of the
crown, was decreed. The throne was also declared hereditary, with limita
tion to the male issue ; the sovereign to profess the Lutheran religion. The
king leaving no issue, upon the sudden death of the first chosen prince royal,
in 1810, one of Napoleon's oldest generals, Marshal Bernadotte, Prince of
Ponte Corvo, was elected Crown Prince of Sweden. Born at Pau, in the
Lower Pyrenees, in 1764, and the son of a notary there, he entered the army
at fifteen, and fought his way from the ranks to the highest honours Napoleon
could bestow upon him. In 1798 he married Eugenie Clery, daughter of a
considerable merchant at Marseilles, and sister to the wife of Joseph Bona
parte. The tyranny of Napoleon induced the Swedes in 1812 to join the
coalition against him, Norway was guaranteed to Sweden, and her troops,
under Bernadotte, greatly contributed to the successes of the allies in Ger
many during the campaigns of 1813 and the following year, which terminated
in the French being finally driven across the Rhine. In 1814 the Norwegians
elected Charles XIII. as their king ; and he died in 1818.
Bernadotte then ascended the thrones of Sweden and Norway as Charles
John XIV., and the successful efforts which he made to develope the resources
of his dominions and to ameliorate the condition of the lower classes, are not
amongst the least meritorious services of his long and active life, which ended
in 1844.
His son Oscar I., the present King of Sweden and Norway, ascended the
throne in 1844 : for the Royal family, see p. 308. In 1857 the King was
Sweden*
GOVERNMENT.
305
attacked by a malady, which unfitted him for holding the reins of govern
ment, and his eldest son Prince Carl has been appointed Regent of Norway
and Sweden during his father's illness. Norway in the Middle ages, and
Sweden under the dynasty of Gtustavus Wasa, hare had glorious periods in
their history ; each has, in its turn, been more powerful than it now is, but
never has either of them enjoyed the same prosperity or internal tranquillity
as under the dynasty of Bernadotte, and never did any King of Sweden or
Norway more perfectly devote all his energies to advance the welfare of his
subjects than Oscar I.
13. GOVERNMENT.
Sweden is an hereditary constitutional monarchy, limited to the male line.
The king must be Lutheran, and his person is inviolable. The rights of the
crown and of the people, and the mode in which the executive is to be carried
on, are specified by the constitution of 1809. Practically the powers of the
crown predominate.
The Diet is composed of four classes ; nobles, clergy, burgesses, and peasants ;
each forms a separate house. The nobles are alone entitled to their seats by
hereditary right ; the members of the other three houses are elected. The diet
meets every five years, with power to extend its sittings to four months ; but
the king has the right to enlarge that period, and also to call extraordinary
meetings. Each house has one vote in all measures requisite to be passed by
the diet. In those which relate to any alteration in the constitution, the houses
must be unanimous in order to pass any act ; in other cases a majority of the
houses only is requisite. When the houses are equally divided, two and two,
the proposed measure is lost, except in the case of financial arrangements,
which are then referred to what is called " the increased committee," formed
of 18 members of each house, whose decision is final as regards the diet. But
no act passed by the diet is binding without its approval by the king. Great
complaints are made of the inequality of the representation, and the undue
power and privileges of the nobles, clergy, and burgesses.
The Religion, as established by the constitution, is Lutheran. There is one
archbishopric, that of Upsala, and 11 bishoprics. The whole establishment
comprises about 3200 clergy, who are highly educated, and considered the
most influential body in Sweden, socially and politically. As in Norway, the
performance of public worship is essentially ceremonial, and the people are
said to be very superstitious. The patronage is in the crown, but the minister
selected by the congregation when a vacancy occurs is usually appointed. In
the case of bishops, the clergy select three persons, and the crown appoints
one of them. The revenue of the archbishop does not exceed 800Z. a year ;
and of the bishops the highest is about 560Z., the lowest 240i. All sects
are tolerated in Sweden, but Lutherans alone can hold any employment under
the State.
306
public press.justice.army.
Sieeden.
Public Instruction. From the commencement of the dynasty of Gustavus

Wasa, great attention has been paid to the education of the lower classes. It
appeal's that of the whole adult population there is only one in 1000 who can
not read ; most of them can also write. The number of parish schools is
small, the parents being the teachers of their children. No marriage can be
celebrated between parties who have not taken the Lord's Supper, and none
are admitted to that rite who cannot read. The present king is most zealous
in his efforts to promote improved education in Sweden. In addition to
charity, elementary, classical, and burgh schools, there are gymnasia or pro
vincial high-schools, in which are taught the branches of education requisite
for students before entering the Universities of Upsala or Lund, both of
which are well attended. The professors are appointed by the crown ; their
salaries average from 70?. to 100Z., the rest of the small incomes being made
up of fees from the students. There are about 110 professors in both univer
sities.
There are likewise special schools for the military and naval service, and
others of history, antiquities, belles-lettres, &c. Also an academy for per
fecting the Swedish language, founded in 1786, and a royal academy of
sciences.
The Public Press is free, but every man is responsible for what he publishes.
There are upwards of 80 newspapers in Sweden ; advertisements are in
common use by all classes, as there is no tax upon them. In cases of
offences by the press the decision of the jury is final, there being no appeal
from it.
Justice. Sweden is divided into 24 Lans, which are subdivided into 117
Poegderier, or districts, each comprising one or more Ilarader, or cantons. To
each Lan there is a governor appointed, who is charged with its civil and
military jurisdiction, and the receipt of the revenue. There are 264 courts of
original jurisdiction, or harad courts, with a judge presiding over each. These
courts sit three times a year, and 12 peasants are elected by the peasantry of
each harad to serve as jurymen for two years. The supreme court of justice,
or final court of review, is composed of 12 councillors, and presided over by
the chancellor of justice. Great and admirably-directed efforts are being
made in the highest quarters to promote improvements in the various branches
of the law.
The Army is composed of three classes, viz., enlisted soldiers, Indelta, and
militia. The first are amongst the most martial-looking troops in Europe,
and comprise a force of about 7692 men, nearly two-thirds of which are artil
lery, and 1000 cavalry. The Indelta consists of about 33,405, of which
7000 are cavalry. The militia of 95,295 men are all infantry. There is also
the militia of Gothland, amounting to 7621 men. The total force amounts
to 144,013 men without officers. The indelta system was established by
Gustavus Adolphus, and is peculiar to Sweden. The country is divided into
military districts, and the holders of crown lands within those districts provide,
Sweden.
NAVY.
KNIGHTHOOD.FINANCES.
307
in proportion to their holdings, the troops forming the Indelta. In fact, both
officers and men are permanently quartered upon, and paid by, the holders of
the crown lands. Both have a certain portion of land, with a dwelling, &c,
upon it, assigned them. In time of peace, and while not called out for the
annual review, they cultivate this land themselves, otherwise the crown holders
must cultivate it for them. The men are also employed in making roads and
other public works. During their leisure time they are bound to work at the
usual rate of wages for the crown holders. Both men and officers provide
their own clothing, arms, and horses, &c. The militia are clothed and aimed
by the Government.
The Navy at present comprises 10 ships of the line, 6 frigates, 4 brigs,
4 corvettes, 9 steam corvettes, 20 schooners, about 200 larger gun-boats, and
594 smaller, with other craft, raising the total force to 897 sail of all kinds.
The seamen, permanently enrolled, are about 8000. They are maintained in
the same manner as the Indelta troops. Including conscripts, the whole
naval force may be raised to 24,000 men. The Swedes have the reputation of
being good sailors. The chief naval stations are Carlscrona, Stockholm, and
Gottenburg.
Orders of Knighthood. Of the 5 Swedish decorations, that of the Seraphim
is the highest, and only bestowed upon crowned heads and persons of the
highest class. The knights of the Seraphim, as such, become knights of all
the other orders. The Polar Star is chiefly confined to men of science, and
of the clerical and legal professions. The Sword is for military and naval
services. The Wasa for agriculturists, manufacturers, &c. ; and Charles XIII.
is confined to Freemasons. All these orders, with the exception of the
Seraphim, are so extensively bestowed, that they are not held in much esteem.
They are usually given to all persons who have been employed in the service
of the State.
Public Finances.In 1855 the' estimates of the ordinary receipts and ex
penditure for that and the two following years were :
Receipts. For land-tax, and other ordinary revenues which are
permanent .......
Customs, stamps, and other extraordinary taxes voted
by the diet
402,733
793,790
1,196,523
Expenditure.For royal family, army, navy, justice, and all

Andother
for extraordinary,
ordinary expenses
about ....
1,073,077
400,000
1,473,077
This large deficit is stated to be covered by a reserve fund arising from the
surplus income of previous years, and the profits of the national bank. In
303
THK KOYAL FAMILY.THE PEOPLE.
Sweden.
addition to those portions of the army and navy which are maintained by
the Indelta system, before explained, a great number of the civil function,
aries are also paid by lands set apart for the purpose. None of these items
appear in the budget, but must be taken into account as part of the national
expenditure.
14. THE BOYAL FAMILY. THK PEOPLE.
Th,e present king, Oscar, born 4th of July, 1799, (was so named by Napoleon,
who was his godfather, and when, as he said, " he was raving mad with Ossian,"
Las Cases, v. iii. p. 173,) succeeded his father 8th of March, 1844, as "King
of Sweden, the Goths and Vandals, and Norway ;" but in all acts relating to
Norway that country is named first. Married, 19 June, 1823, to Josephine
Maximilienne Eugenie, daughter of Eugene Beauharnais, Duke of Leuchtenberg, and son of Josephine, Napoleon's first wife. The Queen was born 14th
March, 1807. The issue of their marriage is the Prince Royal, born 1826,
married in 1850 the Princess Wilhelmina Frederica Alexandrina Anna Louisa
of Orange, a niece of the King of Holland ; Prince Oscar, Duke of the OstroGoths, born 1829 ; Princess Charlotte, born 1830 ; and Prince Augustus,
Duke of Dalecarlia, born 1831. These are all living ; also the Queen Dowager,
who was born 1781. The king, as previously stated, was attacked in 1857 by
a malady, which unfitted him for government, and accordingly his eldest son
has been appointed regent during his father's illness.
The people in Sweden are divided into 4 classesnobles, clergy, burgesses,
and peasants, or farmers.
The whole body of the nobility numbers about 13,500, all being entitled to
rank as nobles who are of noble descent, however remote. The head of each
noble family or clan is, however, alone, and by hereditary right, entitled to a
legislative seat in the House of Nobles. Those so entitled are about 2,500;
but as a great number have, from extreme poverty, sunk into the mass of the
people, not more than about 700 avail themselves of voting in the diet. The
king may create as many nobles as he pleases.
The clergy, inclusive of their families, comprise about 14,000, and, as
before stated, possess great weight, both socially and politically.
The burgesses number about 70,000, the heads of the families being chiefly
engaged in trade. There is also about an equal number of persons of condition
(inclusive of their families) not engaged in any business or profession, but
possessed of independent incomes, yet, as they do not come within either of
the four orders above mentioned, they are politically excluded, as they have
no votes, and are incapable of being elected to represent any class in the diet.
The peasants or farmers cultivating their own land comprise upwards of
2, 000, 000, inclusive of their families. The bulk of the residue of the popula
tion is composed of servants in husbandry, and their families. The love of
drink is the besetting sin of the lower classes, and leads to a vast amount of
Sweden.
PRODUCTIVE INDUSTRY.
309
immorality ; this is more particularly the case in the large towns and southern
parts of the country. But, generally speaking, the Swedes are an honest,
kind-hearted, pleasure-seeking people. In all respects the inhabitants of
Dalecarlia, Route 62, are the most interesting portion of the Swedish race.
Both men and women are possessed of great muscular power. They are
honest, civil, and industrious ; but proud beyond measure of their fancied
superiority over the natives of all the other provinces, and still cherishing the
traditions of the achievements of their ancestors as the first liberators of their
country, under Ghistavus Wasa. They carefully adhere to their antique, and
very picturesque costume. Their language is also peculiar to themselves, and
quite unintelligible even to the inhabitants of the adjoining provinces.
15. PRODUCTIVE INDUSTRY.
Agriculture, &c.Sweden is, like Norway, essentially an agricultural and
pastoral country. The soil is generally light, poor, and thin. Of the 170,715
sq. m. forming the surface of the country, the arable lands are estimated at
3490 ; pasture, 7385 ; forests and mountains, 137,620 ; and lakes and marshes,
22,055. The largest farms and best cultivation are in the Carlstad District.
Since 1815 great and successful efforts have been made by the Government, as
well as by private individuals, for the improvement of agriculture. Prior to
1820 Sweden imported large quantities of corn ; in ordinary years she now
exports to a considerable extent, but this in a great measure has arisen from
the increased cultivation of the potato ; which, together with rye, barley, and
oats, form the chief produce raised, as the growth of wheat, peas, &c, is of
comparatively small amount. The uncertainty of the climate and early frosts
are the great drawbacks to agriculture.
The whole of the arable land is, for assessment to the land-tax, divided into
hemmam, or estates, but which differ in extent and value. The number
increases as land is taken into cultivation, but at present they amount to
about 66,441. Of these 771 belong to towns ; 50,000 to private persons ;
359 to the crown ; 373 to academies and universities ; 201 to colleges and
schools ; 289 to the church ; 204 to hospitals and asylums ; 1 83 to military
schools ; 31 to the navy, and 4045 to the army. Occupiers of crown lands
may become the proprietors, upon payment of a sum equal to six years' purchase
of the land-tax. In consequence of the law which compels an equal division
among the children of a family, land is, in many cases, so minutely subdivided
as to preclude a proper system of cultivation ; this is particularly the case in
Dalecarlia. Throughout Sweden the farms are usually small, the average of
arable land being about 28 acres. Almost all the farm-houses and buildings
are of wood. In all the districts there are public corn magazines, as in
Norway.
Horses, cattle, &c, are extensively bred, but the horses are small, and
310
forests.mines.FISHERIES.
Sweden.
inferior to the Norwegian, which are extensively imported. Great efforts are
made to improve the breed of sheep, by importing the best description from
Spain, England, and Saxony.
Forests are of increasing value and importance in Sweden. Large quantities
of wood are UBed for making the charcoal required for smelting the iron and
other ores so extensively raised, there being but little, if any, coal applicable
for the purpose in the country. Ship-building is carried on in most of the
towns along the whole extent of the Swedish coast. And vast quantities of
timber and deals are exported, particularly from Gottenburg. Fir and pine
are the prevailing trees in the Swedish forests.
Mines are a considerable source of the national wealth in Sweden. Out of
the 586 which are worked, 261 are in the central provinces. The Swedish
iron is amongst the finest in the world, and is extensively used in England and
elsewhere for making steel. The total production of iron in Sweden is esti
mated at about 90, 000 tons, of which 70, 000 are exported. The copper ores
are mostly of inferior quality, and the annual production of copper amounts to
about 750 tons.
All mining operations are conducted under licences from the College of Mines;
these licences specify the amount of metal which may be manufactured by the
holder, and which must not be exceeded under very heavy penalties. All the
ores being smelted by charcoal, the leading object in limiting the amount to be
manufactured is to prevent the undue waste and destruction of the forests ;
but the general supervision to which the whole conduct of mining operations
is subject is vexatious, and most injurious to their development as one of the
leading branches of industry in the country. The chief absurdity of the pre
sent system is, that, having inexhaustible quantities of iron ore of the best
quality, but no coal to smelt it, neither that or any other ores unsmelted are
allowed to be exported.
Fisheries also form a most important branch of industry in Sweden. For
merly large quantities of herrings were taken upon the S. and W. coasts ; but
the shoals having greatly decreased since 1805, only about 2000 barrels are
annually secured. In the Gulfs of Bothnia and Finland great quantities of
a small fish called Stromming are taken. They are about the size of a sprat,
but more delicate in flavour ; they are cured like herrings, and are highly es
teemed in Sweden and Russia. Salmon are taken in considerable abundance
in almost all the rivers upon the coast, and particularly in the large and rapid
streams flowing into the Gulf of Bothnia.
Manufactures in Sweden are chiefly domestic, and for home consumption.
The peasants, like those of Norway, contrive to make almost all that they re
quire, and their rule is to buy nothing which they can themselves produce.
The long winter nights occasion this habit, as the people must be idle during
darkness if they did not so employ themselves. Their manufactures may,
therefore, be considered as costing them nothing, and consequently no foreign
or factory-made goods, however cheap, can ever supersede them to any great
Sweden.
COMMERCE.
LITERATURE, ETC.
311
extent. Manufactories exist for most of the articles consumed by the middle
and upper classes, but considerable quantities of foreign goods are likewise
imported for their use. Efforts are being made to improve the manufacture of
cutlery, which at present is very poor. All the better sorts in use are mostly
English, which are twice as good, and one-third the price of the Swedish.
The great article of manufacture is corn-brandy, of which the consumption is
frightfully great, being at the rate of 8^ gallons per annum to every individual,
old and young, throughout the country. Tar, potash, and saltpetre are pro
duced in considerable quanties in the N. of Sweden.
16. COMMERCE.
The habits of the agriculturists, before alluded to, necessarily render the
internal trade of the country of very limited extent ; and which has been in
creased by the narrow-minded policy which has existed and still operates as a
great drawback upon commercial transactions. But as the roads have been
much improved of late years, and the restrictions upon trade have become re
laxed, it has slowly but satisfactorily progressed.
Foreign Trade is chiefly confined to exports of iron, timber, deals, copper,
alum, corn, tar, &c. ; and the imports to sugar, coffee, and other colonial
products : wines, oil, salt, hides, cotton, cotton-twist, silk, &c. In 1831 the
exports amounted to about 1,297, 083i. , and the imports to 1,025,250?., from
which they gradually increased until, in 1855, the former reached 2,916, 600?.,
and the latter 5,591, 600Z. The foreign trade is chiefly confined to Gottenburg and Stockholm ; and is carried on principally with Great Britain, Ame
rica, Holland, Lubeck, Hamburg, and Denmark. The foreign trade of Sweden,
like that of Norway, is chiefly in the hands of the Hamburg merchants ; she
needs a complete revision of her commercial code and policy, before her trade
can be put upon that sound basis which the natural capabilities of the country,
and her advancing population, demand.
17. LITERATURE, ETC.
Literature, as well as the arts and sciences, has been most successfully cul
tivated in Sweden. Amongst her distinguished authors and men of science
are, Puffendorf, Tycho-Brahe, Celsius, Rudbeck, Linnaeus, Scheele, Bergman,
Berzelius, Tegner, Belman (the Burns of Scandinavia), Geyer the historian,
and a number of other celebrated men. In most of the large towns there are
extensive libraries ; several of them containing considerable collections of
MSS. The literary and scientific society in Upsala, Lund, and Stockholm is
of the most attractive and unostentatious description. The Swedes are
passionately fond of music and the drama. The amiable and highly-gifted
312
CHURCHES.
CANALS.
Jenny Lind is a native of Stockholm, and is literally adored there by all

classes. Taglioni is also a Swede. Many of the Swedish national airs are
very charming ; a considerable collection of them has been made and published
at Stockholm.
18. CHURCHES.
The Cathedral at Upsala, the Cathedral Church at Strengnas, and the
churches in the Isle of Gottland, are of high antiquity, and very interesting.
" A Swedish artist, Herr Mandelgren, has made a large collection of Ecclesiological drawings ; they are now (March, 1847) in the hands of the Swedish
Academy of Science, to examine and report upon to the Government, which
has been applied to by the artist for a grant to aid him in publishing them in
coloured lithography."G. J. R. Gordon. Should these drawings be pub
lished, they will serve to prove how rich Sweden is in objects of interest to
the Ecclesiologist.
19. CANALS.
With reference to her home and foreign trade, canals are of deep importance
to Sweden, on account of the two Belts and the Sound being in the hands of
the Danes, who in case of hostilities would have the command of these en
trances to the Baltic. The object of forming a direct water communication from
the centre of Sweden to the North Sea by Gottenburg appears to have been
originated in the early part of the 16th century, although not completed till
1800. The great difficulty to overcome was the difference of level in the
Gotha River at Trollhattan, and this was at length accomplished by blasting
out of the solid rock a canal about 3 Eng. m. long, parallel with the river. The
great lakes, Wenern and Wettern, were also united by a canal in 1832 ; and
advantage being taken of the various small lakes between the latter and the
town of Soderkoping, they were again united by canals, and thus the entire
line of communication was completed between the Cattegatt and the Baltic.
In 1819 a canal from the Malar Lake to Sodertelje, upon the Baltic, was also
made. Steamers regularly ply upon these canals and lakes between Stockholm
and Gottenburg : see Route 63. In addition to the above, the Canal of Arboga
unites the Malar and Hjelmare Lakes. And that of Stroemsholm connects the
Malar Lake with the province of Dalecarlia, in the neighbourhood of the Falun
Mines.
NOTICE.
In the following Swedish Routes the names and distances of Stations have
been checked by Brandenburg's Map, published in Stockholm, as being the
best and most useful for travellers. But to guard against any alterations
which may be made in the Stations, or inaccuracy of their names or distances,
it is always advisable, on sending Forbud papers, to have them first checked at
the place from which they are sent.
Distances in Sweden will always be given in Swedish miles, unless English
miles be expressly stated.
In the following Routes the heights of mountains, &c. , and levels of lakes
are (with few exceptions) taken from Forsell's Map, in 8 sheets, published in
Stockholm, and are therefore given in Swedish feet. See "Measures," p. 284.
The asterisk *, prefixed to the names of Stations, denotes that good or tole
rable accommodation is to be obtained there.
And the obelisk f, before the name of a Station, marks it as a " Fast Sta
tion ;" that is, horses are kept in readiness.
314
eoute 60. London to Stockholm.
Sweden.
ROUTES THROUGH SWEDEN.

mentioned by Tacitus in his Treatise
ROUTE 60.
Germany, s. 40, still exist, and are
LONDON TO STOCKHOLM BY LUBECK, on
held in superstitious veneration by the
CALLING AT YSTAD AND KALMAR.
inhabitants. Valdemar I. of Denmark
Travellers must remember that the in 1169, aided by his military bishops,
days of the steamers' arrivals and de Absalom of Roeskilde and Eskil of
partures are liable to change every Lund, finally reduced the island, and
year. On reaching Sweden they had destroyed the heathen temples and
better provide themselves with the idols. Amongst them was the gigantic
list of steamers published annnally.
oneof Svantovit, the offerings to whom,
Dist. about 1050 Eng. m. , going from most parts of the Slavonic world,
direct by sea to Hamburg ; round by were immense, including human sacri
Ostend and Cologne, 1200. See also fices, a Christian being deemed the
below for steamer from Lubeck to most acceptable of all. Dunham's
Stockholm direct.
History of Denmark, &c. v. ii. p. 199.
Travellers have the choice of several Rugen long remained subject to the
ways as far as Lubeck ; direct by sea Danish sceptre ; subsequently to that
to Hamburg, see Routes 1 and 6. of Sweden ; and now forms part of
From London to Ostend, and thence Prussian Pomerania.
by railway to Hamburg and Lubeck,
Ystad. Hotel d'Almaigne said to
Route 2 ; from London to Antwerp, be the best inn. The channel leading
and thence by railway, Route 3 ; and to the harbour is too difficult and nar
from London to Rotterdam, Hanover, row for large steamers to pass in the
&c, Route 4. In going direct from dark, which often causes some delay in
London to Hamburg by railway from their arrival and departure. Passen
Ostend, or steamer from London, and gers are landed upon the quay close to
taking the steamer from Lubeck, the town.
Steamers. To and from Stockholm
Stockholm may be reached on the 6th
and Lubeck, calling here and at Kal
day.
Steamers from Lubeck and Trave- mar once a week each way. A steamer
miinde for Stockholm leave every also runs twice a week between Ystad
Thursday, calling at Ystad and Kalmar and Stralsund. From Ystad on Tues
on the Swedish coast. Distance about days and Saturdays, leaving Stralsund
500 Eng. m. Average passage, 65 on her return voyage on Sundays and
hours. Fare, Chief Cabin, 40 ds. ban Thursdays at noon. Fares, Chief
co (exclusive of food, and dinners must Cabin, 6 Pruss. thaler; 2nd Cabin,
3 do. , and the weekly steamer between
be paid for whether eaten or not).
On leaving Travemiinde, Ystad lies Copenhagen and the Island of Bornon the N. E. The coast of Holstein, holm calls here : leaving Copenhagen
and the islands of Falster and Moen, on Mondays at T a. m. ; Ystad on Mon
are passed on the W., while Mecklen days at 3 p. M. , reaching Bornholm in
burg and Pomerania successively ap about 6 horn's. It leaves Ystad on its
pear on the E. In fine weather Rugen return to Copenhagen on Fridays at 9
may likewise be seen in the extreme A.M.
distance. This picturesque island was
Stralsund to Ystad.
the last stronghold of Paganism in the
north. The sacred wood and lake,
Stralsund is about 110 Eng. m.
Sweden.
HODTE 60.BY LUBECK AND YSTAD.
from Lubeck, and 90 from Stettin.

Diligences run daily from Stettin in
about 16 hours. Fare, 168 s. gr.
Inn.DerGoldnerLowe (the Lion).
In the 14th century Stralsund was the
chief town of the Hansa ; it was
ceded to Sweden with Pomerania in
1648 by the peace of Westphalia, and
given to Prussia in 1815 ; it has now
about 20, 000 inhabitants. The Strela
Lund, a strait 2 miles broad, separates
it from the island of Rugen. The
Nicolai Kirche built in 1311, and the
Eathhaus, built in 1316, are the prin
cipal objects of interest. See Sandbook for Northern Germany.
Steamers to Ystad twice a week on
Sundays and Thursdays, returning on
Tuesdays and Saturdays, in 15 hours.
The population of Ystad is upwards
of 6000. There is a brisk and im
proving trade carried on here, and the
numbers of vessels continually passing
give an additional interest to the place.
The Castle of Marsvinsholm will repay
the trouble of a visit. It is about |
of a mile N. W. of Ystad.
The sea-coast of Sweden in these
southern provinces has none of those
peculiar features which distinguish it
in districts. Bay, gulf, and inlet suc
ceed each other, varying, indeed, in
shape and extent, and hemmed in by
their rocky headlands ; but it is not
until we nearly reach Westervik that
the clusters of islands begin, which
from that point stud every fjord and
creek along the whole extent of the
Gulf of Bothnia. The whole penin
sula may in fact be said to rise slowly
and gradually from the eastern coast,
attaining an increased elevation in
each successive province towards the
west, until, having reached its loftiest
height in the great mountain chain
which so long formed the frontier of
Norway and Sweden, and which, com
mencing near Gottenburg, stretches its
granite barrier through the wilds of
Dalecarlia and Lappmark, until it
meets the waters of the Polar Sea, it
descend* in abrupt precipices to the
315
ocean on the western coast, the scenery

upon which is altogether much grander
than that upon the E.
Soon after leaving Tstad the Island
of Bornholm is seen upon the right,
and after passing that the coast is lost
sight of till it again appears near
Carlscrona, after passing which the
mainland remains in view on the W.,
and the Island of Oland on the E.,
both gradually becoming more distinct
as the Sound narrows.
Bornholm belongs to Denmark. It
is about 26 E. miles long by 15 in the
widest part. Its lofty rocks and
elevated lands supply Denmark with
limestone, blue marble, potters' clay,
and some coal, but the latter has not
been worked to much profit. The
population is about 25,000, who are
chiefly employed in agriculture, the
fisheries round the island, which are
very productive, and the manufacture
of bricks, tiles, coarse pottery, and
wooden clocks. Bonne, on the S.W.
of the island, is the capital, and a
thriving place, besides which there are
6 other towns. The climate is dry,
and considered very healthy ; it is
likely that some good shooting may be
had on the large heaths in the centre
of the island, as well as fishing in the
numerous small streams. Bornholm
is about 40 E. m. from Ystad.
There are a number of circular
churches on the island, which possess
the peculiarity of four great pillars in
the centre, supporting the vault. They
are remarkable for massive rudeness
of style, rather than for any beauty
of architectural design. So much so
is this the case, that it has been some
times doubted whether they owed
their circular form and peculiar
arrangement to ecclesiastical or to
military considerations. Their archi
tecture, properly so called', is wholly
without beauty or interest. A steamer
leaves KBjine for Copenhagen on
Fridays at 5 a.m., calling at Ystad
en route. Fare to Copenhagen, Chief
Cabin, 5 rigsbank dollars.
F 2
316
ROUTE 60.LONDON TO STOCKHOLM.
Kalmak contains about 7185 in

habitants, and is the residence of the
bishop of the diocese. It is situated
in a narrow part of the Sound of
Kalrnar, the Island of Oland being
only 5 Eng. m. distant.
The suburb upon the main-land oc
cupies the site of the very old town,
which was burnt in 1647. The pre
sent town was then built on the small
Island of Quarnholm, and communi
cates with the main-land by a bridge
of boats. Most of the houses are of
wood. In 1800 a great portion of the
town was destroyed by fire. The
Cathedral, the castle, and some other
of the principal buildings, are of stone.
The former is handsome, and contains
an altar-piece by Ehrenstrahl. The
Library of the Academy contains
about 4000 volumes, including many
most interesting manuscripts. The
port is small, but secure. The town
was formerly of much greater impor
tance, commercially and otherwise,
than it is now; but it still contains
a few manufactories of woollen stuffs,
tobacco, &c, and exports quantities
of timber, tar, and hemp. There is
also a dockyard.
The fortifications are strong; and
the Castle, which is in the suburb,
was formerly looked upon as one of the
keys of Sweden. It was in this strong
hold that in 1397 Queen Margaret
convoked a general assembly of the
States, and concluded the celebrated
treaty whereby the three kingdoms of
Sweden, Denmark, and Norway be
came united under her own sceptre,
which she wielded with such prudence
and vigour as to acquire the title of
the Semiramis of the North.
Close to Kalmar is a small tongue
of land called Stenso, upon whieh the
adventurous Gustavus Wasa landed
from Lubeck in 1520, to deliver his
country from the domination of
foreigners, and that most sanguinary
tyrant, Christian II. of Denmark.
Part of the exiled family of the I
Bourbons, Louis XVIII., Charles X., |
Sweden.
and the Due d'Angouleme resided here

in 1804. The former erected a tablet
at Stenso to commemorate Gustavus
Wasa's landing there.
Steamers. To and from Stockholm
direct 4 times a week. Average pas
sage, 24 hours. Fare, Chief Cabin,
13J d. b. To and from Stockholm
and Lubeck, calling here, and at Ystad,
twice a week. To and from Stock
holm and Carlshamn, calling at Westervik, here, and at Carlscrona, twice
a week. To Stettin once a week. To
Wisby in Gottland twice a week, on
Wednesdays, and on Saturdays at &
P.M.
The Island of Gland.
Kalmar is the best place from
whence to make an excursion to Oland,
which is about 90 Eng. m. long, by
10 broad at the widest part. The
population is upwards of 31,000, who
are, chiefly occupied in fishing and agri
cultural pursuits. The whole island
is a limestone formation, and the
depth of soil upon the surface is
small but productive. The forests
are beautiful and extensive. Game is
said to be abundant, including deer,
roe, and wild boar. This island is
famous for its breed of ponies, which
are not more than 3 or 4 feet high.
Borgholm, on the W. side of the is
land, is the principal town and place
of trade ; the population is 600. The
vast ruins of the old castle above the
town form a most striking and pic
turesque object, particularly from the
sea. See p. 375.
There are good roads and villages
throughout the island, and both the
sportsman and lover of antique church
architecture will find ample occupation
here.
The Island of Gottland.
Those desirous of visiting this most
interesting island before going to
Stockholm had better land at Kalmar,
and take the steamer from thence
direct to Wisby twice a week j or an
Sweden.
ROCTE 60.GOTTLANP.WISBY.
open boat might be taken from Kalmar

to Wisby direct, about 115 Eng. m. ;
or they can visit Oland, and cross
from Bodahamn, at the N.E. corner
of that island, to Gottland, 45
Eng. m. See also p. 375.
Gottland is the largest island in
this part of the Baltic, being about
80 Eng. m. long by 33 at the widest
part. It is a limestone formation,
and averages from 85 to 140 feet
above the level of the sea. The
climate is very temperate ; the walnut,
mulberry, and grape ripen in the open
air ; and a variety of vegetables
thrive here which will not exist on
the adjoining continent. But little
rain falls here in summer. The sun
sets are most gorgeous. The whole
population of the island is about
46,985.
Wisby is the only town upon the
island, and has upwards of 4000 in
habitants. There is a comfortable
Inn. Lodgings may likewise bs
readily obtained in a private house.
An English Consul resides here, who
is most kind and obliging in aiding
travellers with his advice and assist
ance in exploring the island.
This town is of the highest his
torical and antiquarian interest. The
period of its foundation is unknown j
but "in the 10th and 11th centuries
(200 years before the establishment of
the Hanseatic League in 1241) it was
one of the most important commercial
cities in Europe."Laing's Sweden,
p. 305. During the 14th and loth
centuries it was a principal factory of
the Hanseatic League, and attained to
still greater wealth and importance.
It is famous for the Code of Marine
Laws which bear its name. Their
date appears uncertain, but they are
attributed by the northern historians
to the 12th century.
Numbers of Anglo-Saxon, as well
as Arabian, Persian, and other coins
have been, and are still, found in this
island.
"During the 11th and 12th centuries
317
a great portion of the Eastern trade,

which had previously been carried on
through Egypt or Constantinople, was
diverted to a northern line of com
munication, owing to the disturbed
state of the East, which preceded,
and indeed gave rise to the Crusades.
At this time a very considerable trade
passed through Russia, and centered
in Novgorod. Thence it passed down
the Baltic to Gottland, which was ap
parently chosen for the security of its
island position, and its capital Wisby
became the great emporium of the
West." Ferguson's Handbook of
Architecture, p. 928.
In 1361 Valdemar III. of Denmark
took Wisby by storm. The plunder
he obtained was enormous, as it was
then the grand depot for all the mer
chandise of the Baltic ; and it was a
fatal blow to the prosperity of the
place.
As it now remains, it is the most
interesting town in the N. of Europe.
Its feudal walls and towers still exist
almost in as entire a state as they
were in the 13th century. The view
of the town is particularly striking
from the sea. There are no less than
18 ruined churches here (all varying
in form and ornament) of the 11th
and 12th centuries, which alone are a
mine of interest to the Gothic archi
tect. " The Cathedral was originally
founded about 1100, burnt down in
1175, and rebuilt, as we now find it,
about 1225. Like all the others, it
is small, being only 180 ft. long by 80
in width." Ferguson's Illustrated
Handbook of Architecticre, p. 929.
Of the others, the Helige Ands Kirkan
(Church of the Holy Ghost) is the
oldest, having been built in 1046. Its
structure is unique, being octagon and
bivaulted, with a curious aperture in
the ceiling of the ground choir, the
use of which appears never to have
been satisfactorily explained. The
nave is an octagon, about 52 ft. east
and west. ' ' A square space in the
centre is bounded by four pillars, be
318
houte 60.London to Stockholm.
tween which the vault of the lower

Btory is omitted, so as to leave an
opening into the upper story. Four
pillars of slenderer design support the
vault of the upper church, and the
whole, with the roofs, rises to about
100 ft. To the eastward is a choir,
externally a rectangle, 32 ft. by 25,
but internally semicircular at the
eastern end. The church in Ger
many most like this, is perhaps that
at Schwartz Rheindorf. It also re
sembles the chapel at Freiburg, but
the most extended, and indeed typi
cal example of a church of this class
is St. Gereon's at Cologne."Fergu
son, p. 929. Each by itself is a perfect
church : the lower one has nothing
of the nature of a crypt. The open
ing in the floor of the upper one
would permit service when performed
in the lower one to be heard in the
upper. One of the explanations of
this peculiarity is, that the upper
church was intended for nuns, who
might thus attend to the service
below without being themselves seen.
Another idea is, that the upper
church was retained for the use of
the feudal baron and his family, while
the lower church was for the people
of the town. Good books on this
subject are wanting. " Hellig Ands
Kirken i Wisby paa Gulland," med
Fire Tegninger af J. D. Herholdt,
published in Banish at Copenhagen,
is perhaps the best. There are also
2 or 3 accounts published in Swedish
at Stockholm. The Ecclesiologist,
No. 94 for Feb. 1848, contains a
letter from Mr. G. J. R. Gordon on
the subject ; Sylmnus' Rambles in
Sweden and Gothland; and Mr.
Laing's Tour in Sweden ; but none of
all these authorities are of a very
high class. At the time of the Re
formation the last Roman Catholic
bishop fled into Germany with all
the documents and records belong
ing to these churches, where they are
supposed to have perished in the
troubles of the Thirty Years' War.
Sweden.
"The churches of St. Lawrence

and St. Drothens both belong to the
11th century. St. Nicholas must be
as old as the 13th, probably the end
of it. The others range between these
two dates, forming in themselves what
is rarely met witha complete and
unaltered series of examples of the
style. Their most striking peculiarity
seems to be that they are all small
buildings like the Greek churches.
There does not seem to have been any
metropolitan basilica,or any great
conventual establishment, but an im
mense number of detached cells and
chapels scattered in groups all over
the island, with very few that could
contain a congregation of any extent."
Ferguson's Illustrated Handbook
of Architecture, p. 929.
St. Mary's is the only church now
kept up for the use of the inhabitants,
and was built in 1190.
The ruins of several convents also
exist here, together with those of the
castle ; and many of the old houses
constructed by the wealthy merchants
of Wis;by in the days of her splendour
are highly picturesque.
It is not Wisby only that is so in
teresting to the lover of Gothic archi
tecture. There are upwards of 100
churches in the island, mostly also of
the 11th and 12th centuries, which
are generally in a good state of pre
servation, and very instructive ex
amples of those periods. The roads
throughout the island are fine, the
farm-houses comfortable, and the in
habitants kind and obliging.
The island abounds in large tracts
of forest, and there is an abundance
of game. The snipe-shooting is ex
cellent. The highest point in Gottland is at Hogklint, upon the coast,
3 Eng. m. S. of Wisby.
The steamers, which leave Kalmar
on Wednesdays and Saturdays at 6
p.m., for Stockholm, call here en
route. Average passage to Stockholm
about 24 hours. Fare, Chief Cabin,
8d. b.
Sweden.
eodte CO.Stockholm.hotels, etc.
From Kalmar to Stockholm.

On leaving Kalmar, after quitting
the Sound, but little more is seen of,
the low and uninteresting Swedish
coast till approaching it again about
80 Eng. m. from Stockholm. That
vast reef of low rocky islands then
begins, which extends 150 Kng. m.
up the coast. Most of them are co
vered with fir and pine.
The town of Westervik is passed
upon the coast. Most of the coasting
steamers touch here. See for more
particulars Route 74.
On the ships entering the maze of
islands as Stockholm is approached,
they gradually become higher and
more picturesque than upon the coast.
A strong work, with a formidable
array of guns, guards the outer chan
nel, which is so narrow as to admit
of the sentinel hailing every ship
that passes ; what country she is of,
where from, &c.
The inner channel near Stockholm
is protected by the fortress of Waxholm, which is built upon a small
island of rock. Great additions have
recently been made to strengthen the
works, which have rendered them very
formidable. Placed in mid-channel,
no ship can approach Stockholm
without approaching within some 300
yards or less of the tremendous fire
of Waxholm. After passing it the
scenery becomes much more pictu
resque ; the islands are of bolder
outline, and abound with oak and
other forest trees, and villas become
numerous ; the whole enlivened by
ships and boats, all betokening the
neighbourhood of a large city.
Stockholm at length opens up, and
in appearance and situation is alike
unique and highly picturesque. The
steamer gradually threads her way
through the various craft moving
about in all directions, and is laid
alongside the quay.
Passports are retained by the cap
tain, who sends them to the police
319
office. Fees for the steward and

stewardess are at discretion, and are
placed in a small box for their recep
tion. Custom Home. Baggage is
searched on board ; if facilities be
afforded it is only nominal. No gra
tuities to the officers are expected or
should be given. Porters are in
attendance, and may be safely trusted
with luggage. Their charges are
very moderate, regulated by tariff,
and paid at an office on the quay
before starting with their load. A
ticket is given for the sum paid, and
which is to be handed over to the
portersontheirdeliveringthe baggage.
Afewsk. extra are usually given them.
Carriages are not often in attendance,
as none of the inns are far distant
from the landing-place.
Stockholm.Inns: H6tel de la
Croix, in the Brunkeberg Torget, is
the best. Kahn's Hotel, also in the
Brunkeberg Torget, is very good.
There is a cafe down-stairs, where
brcikfasts and suppers may be ob
tained, but no dinners. Price of 2
bedrooms on 2nd floor, 3 rix dollars
24 skillings, about 4s. English, per
diem. The master speaks French
well and English tolerably. Hotel
du, Commerce, Stora Ny Gatan,
Lodgings may also be obtained at
private houses, and this is the plan
most usually adopted by the natives.
For dinners (but where no lodgings
are to be had) the best places are the
H6tel de Sued*, in the Drottninggatan : and H&tel du Nord. At
both these houses, which are much
frequented, dinners are served a la
Carte, which is in Swedish. At the
H&tel du Nord the landlord speaks
French. Persons may dine com
fortably at these hotels for about
2 r. d. each, 2s. 3d., exclusive of
wine, which is cheap and good, par
ticularly port. At these hotels, and
generally throughout Sweden, there is
a side table in the dining-room, where
bread, cheese, butter, and a decanter
of finkel are placed, and which most
320
route 60.Stockholm.post-office, etc. Sweden.
of the Swedes apply themselves to

before sitting down to dinner.
CafCa. There are several which
are much frequented. The Hosselbacken in the Djurgarden is the best :
capital dinners, and at reasonable
prices. The iced Bavarian beer and
port wine is to be recommended.
Bairn'b, under the bridge, on the E.
side, opposite the palace, is also a
good one. The hours at the restau
rants and also at the club are 8 to
10 for breakfasts ; 1 to 3 for dinners ;
8 to 10 for suppers. Nothing to be
got out of these hours.
The Stora or Lille Clvh.Gentle
men are recommended to obtain an
introduction to this club immediately
on their arrival in Stockholm. It
cm readily be had from any leading
banker or merchant. It is most
comfortable in every respect, and has
a very good cuisine. A library is
attached, together with a readingroom, where most of the foreign as
well as Swedish newspapers will be
found ; coffee-room, &c. , &c.
The Port- Office is upon the W. of
the Palace, in the Lilla Ny Gatan,
No. 6. Letters to England must be
prepaid ; postage about Is. 6(2. Eng.
The houses of most of the leading
bankers and merchants are likewise
not far distant from the Post-Office.
The exchanges are regulated by Ham
burg prices.
The Bank of Sweden is in the
Jerntorget, a short distance E. of the
Post-Office. It is open in the morn
ing, when change of any kind may
be had. A good supply of small
money is essential, and very difficult
to obtain elsewhere.
Valets de place, who speak English,
may be heard of at the different ho
tels : they are well recommended, and
act as travelling servants in -Sweden
and Norway when required. Their
usual terms are 4 r. d. per diem in
Stockholm, finding themselves with
food and lodging ; when travelling,
their lodging to be paid for them,
and they act as coachmen and occa

sionally as cooks. Strangers had
better follow their own opinions as
regards the proper carriage and
harness to hire or purchase, taking
care that the former is of the lightest
description. Let them see that they
are strong, particularly the wheels,
the spokes tight, and the tires in
good order, and that they have not
too much play on the axle : let them
see that the nut goes tight on the
screw, for linch-pins are unknown,
and not forget a drag, if purchasing
a four-wheeled carriage. For gen
tlemen a carriole is much the best ;
see under Norway for this and all
requisites. The hire of a fourwheeled carriage would be about 11.
per week. There is an electric tele
graph now to Gefle from Stockholm,
and from Stockholm to Gottenburg,
thence to Helsingborg.
Stockholm consists of 3 divisions :
the city, which is built on 3 small
islands (now so connected as to ap
pear like one) at the entrance of
the Millar Lake, and containing the
palace and most of the Government
offices, chief mercantile houses, &c. ;
the Northern suburb (Normalm),
where are the best dwelling-houses
and shops ; and the Southern suburb
(Sodermalm), which is chiefly occu
pied by persons engaged in trade.
The N. suburb is connected with the
city by a handsome granite bridge,
called the New Bridge, and by a
similar one on the S. Strange as it
may appear, from the rocky nature
of the ground in some of the suburbs,
the lower parts of them and the
whole of the city are built on piles.
The population, according to the last
census in 1856, was 100,040.
Society in Stockholm appears to be
upon the most agreeable and unosten
tatious footing, particularly with re
spect to the professors and literary
circle. Amongst the very few English
residents here, is Mr. Stephens, the
translator of "Frithiofs Saga," and
Sweden.
route 60. SIEGES.
who is deeply versed in the anti

quities of Scandinavia, as well as its
literature, both ancient and modern.
Winter is the gay season ; all then is
life and animation, and the Malar
Lake crowded with sledges and
skaters.
A promontory on the south side
of the city originally bore the name
of the Agnefit (Agne's Rock), in con
sequence of a tragedy which occurred
there about a.d. 220. Agne, then
King of Sweden, and one of the
sacred line of the Ynglings, in a war
with the Finns, slew their king,
and made his daughter, Skiolfa, pri
soner ; who, according to the custom
of the age here, became Ague's wife
or mistress: The last rites in memory
of her father were celebrated with
Bplendour on her being brought to
Sweden. Agne, upon that occasion,
became intoxicated with most of his
followers. Having a massive gold
chain round his neck, and -the tent
in which he lay being beneath a tree,
Skiolfa, with the aid of her Finnish
attendants, prisoners like herself,
avenged her father's death and her
own wrongs by passing a cord through
Agne's gold chain, and hanging him
on the tree. That done, they took to
their boats, andeseapedto Finland.
Dunham1s Hist of Sweden, &c, v. i.
p. 132.
Stockholm was founded by, and
became the residence of Birger Jarl
about 1260. He was the father of
Valdemar I., and alike able as a
statesman and warrior. The strength
of its fortifications exposed the city
to repeated sieges in the early periods
of its history. On two of the most
memorable of' those occasions it was
defended by women.
From the 7th October, 1501, to
27th March in the following year,
the citadel was held against the in
surgent Swedes and their allies by
the heroic Christina, queen of John
of Denmark, who left her in com
mand of a garrison of about 1000
mi
men. That force at length reduced

by famine and the sword to 80, she
was compelled to capitulate. Three
days after this event, a Danish arma
ment arrived for her relief, but only
to find her a prisoner in the hands of
the Swedes.
But the still more heroic defence
of Stockholm was that originated and
conducted by Christina Gyllenstierna,
the widow of Sten Sture, against the
perfidious and sanguinary Christian
II. of Denmark. After a fruitless
siege of 4 months in 1520, through
the intervention of 2 Swedish bishops,
the plaee was surrendered to the king
under the mest solemn guarantees on
his part to respect the rights of the
inhabitants. He repaid the confi
dence of his revolted subjects by
shortly afterwards causing all the
most distinguished Swedes to be mas
sacred throughout the country. In
Stockholm alone 94 were executed in
one day, and among these was the
father of the great Gustavus Wasa.
The scene of this massacre, in 1520,
was in the Stortorget, or Great Market,
near the church of St. Nicolas. The
heroic Christina was closely impri
soned, the body of her husband ex
humed, and exposed to the vilest
treatment. Such were the acts which
prepared the way for the liberation
of Sweden by Gustavus Wasa and the
most glorious period of her history,
alike heroic and immortal.
Stockholm has been justly called
the Venice of the North. There is
one view which strongly recalls that
of the Doge's palace and Piazza di San
Marco. It is that of the N. E. front
of the Palace with its Backen or
square on the S. E. , and the extensive
and massive quay of granite beneath,
with boats and vessels gliding about
in the fjord. As a whole Stockholm
cannotof course compete in picturesque
effect with the Queen of the Adriatic,
but its situation is very lovely.
The Palace is the great object of
attraction. Built on the highest part
r 3
8212
ROTJTE CO. STOCKHOLM. THE PALACE, ETC.
of the central island, its vast and

massive walls tower above all the
neighbouring buildings. It contains
the principal collections, and most of
the other objects of interest are in
its immediate neighbourhood.
This noble structure was completed
in 1753, from the designs of the
Count Tessin, by his son. The base
ment story is of granite ; the rest of
brick and stucco. It consists of a
quadrangle of huge dimensions, with
wings at each corner, two stories
lower than the centre. In front
these wings inclose an extensive ter
race, kid out as a garden, and over
looking the quay and harbour. At
the back is an outer court-yard, with
guard-houses for the military on duty
at the Palace. The general style of
the architecture is chaste, simple, and
massive, and the proportions of the
whole structure grand and admirable.
The finest views of the Palace and
most picturesque portions of the town
are from the opposite side of the
water on the S.E.
The N. W. entrance to the Palace
from the foot of the new bridge is
known as the Lion's Staircase. It
forms two broad inclined planes,
rising in opposite directions from the
quay, and leading to a spacious plat
form in front of the gate. The whole
structure is of solid, granite, beauti
fully designed, and decorated with 2
colossal lions in bronze. The view
from this platform over the bridge,
Malar Lake, and N. suburb, is one of
the finest in Stockholm.
The Royal Museum is in the Pa
lace, and comprises several collec
tions. The entrance is on the left,
from the Lion's Staircase. Open to the
public on Monday and Thursday, 11
till 2. Eut strangers will have little
difficulty in gaining admission during
those hours any other week-day, as
the Director is usually in attendance,
and nothing can exceed his kindness
and patience to those who take an
interest in art. He speaks French.
Sweden.
The Picture Gallery contains about

500 pictures, of the Italian, Dutch,
and Flemish schools. They have suf
fered less from cleaning than is usu
ally the case with public collections.
Amidst a quantity of rubbish there
are a few good pictures, which, if se
parated from the others, would form a
small cabinet, creditable to the coun
try, and very instructive and useful
in promoting a correct taste and
judgment. Some of the most inte
resting pictures are No. 19, N. Berghem ; 57, Paul Veronese ; 59, Canaletto ; 66, A. Carracci ; 95 and 99,
Lucas Cranachthe former an ad
mirable specimen in his finest man
ner; 103, Dahl, a most life-like por
trait of the fiery Charles XII., as a
youth; 114, Domenichino ; 119,
Gaspar Poussin ; 130, K. du Jardin,
an Italian Landscape, and a charming
specimen of the master; 132, an in
teresting picture, attributed to Vandyck; 159, 160, and 161 are good
examples of Van Goyen ; 226 is a
true picture by Claude, but ruined ;
268 is by C. Netcher, but injured ;
343, Rubens ; 397 is a good portrait,
attributed to Titian, but is more like
Velasquez. Students are allowed to
copy the pictures in the gallery, and
to have them down for that purpose.
The Collection of Drawings by old
masters of the various schools is
extensive, and contains some fine
things, particularly of the Italian
schools, including Raphael, Guido,
and Guercino, &c. The portfolios
containing these drawings are in the
custody of the Director of the Mu
seum, and only shown upon special
application to him.
The Sculpture Gallery. The gem
here is the Sleeping Endymion. It
was found in the ruins of the Villa of
Hadrian, near Tivoli, in 1750, and
purchased by Gustavus III., for 2000
gold ducats, about a sixth part of its
present value. This beautiful statue
is of the finest period of Greek art,
and only second to the Barbarini
Sweden.
ROUTE 60.
Fawn at Munich. The collection

comprises about 260 objects, and in
addition to the above there are seve
ral busts and portions of statues of a
high class and of Greek workmanship.
Swedish sculpture is ably represented
here by the works of Sergell, Bystrom, and Fogelberg ; 164, Love and
Psyche, and 186, a Fawn, by Sergell,
are works of great merit, particularly
the latter. Of the colossal statues of
the three Scandinavian Gods, by Fo
gelberg, that of Odin is the best. It
is a fine majestic figure, with great
force and dignity of expression.
The Egyptian and Etruscan Col
lections comprise a large variety of
objects, but none of a very high
class ; also some good Raphael ware.
Amongst the pictures hung in the
same rooms with the above there is
a much-neglected but admirable pic
ture, "The Marriage of Canaan,"
by J. Van Eyck.
The Royal Wardrobe (Kladkammaren) and Armoury are now re
moved from the Palace, and arranged
together in one large building on the
west side of the Gustaf Adolf Torget,
north of the Norrbro. All the fine
suits of armour formerly in the Kiddarholms Kyrka are also removed into
this building, and all the souvenirs of
Gustavus Adolphus and Charles XII.,
&c. They have been all cleaned,
and are in excellent order. The col
lection contains costumes, arms, or
naments, &c, which have belonged
to various Swedish sovereigns, and
other members of the past and pre
sent dynasties. Amongst the most
interesting objects are the cradle and
toys of Charles XII., which contrast
well with the sword he wore when he
defied the Turks at Bender. It is a
fearful weapon, such as few arms
could wield, and bears upon its blade
a motto, though admirable in itself,
yet somewhat out of place, * ' Deo
soli gloria." Here, likewise, may be
seen the sword of the patriot King
Gustavus Wasa, and a variety of
KOYAL LIBRARY.
323
other weapons, some of costly work

manship. The costume of Gustavus
III., in which he was shot at the
Opera. The collection of pictures
and sculpture was founded by him.
Many of the ornaments in this cabinet
are very beautiful, and will repay a
careful examination. Amongst them
will be found various objects admir
ably carved in ivory by the great
General Stenbock during his impri
sonment in Denmark. In the Arse
nal, near the N. gate of the city,
amidst a quantity of old arms and
armour, &c, there are likewise seve
ral weapons, which have belonged to
Charles XII. and other Swedish
heroes. But the most interesting of
these memorials having been removed,
the Arsenal is now rarely visited.
The Royal Library is contained in
a splendid room running almost the
whole length of the S. E. wing of the
Palace, and the entrance is opposite
that of the Picture Gallery. It is open
on the same days and hours as the
Museum, but strangers will find little
difficulty in visiting it at any time
during the week days. It comprises
about 70,000 vols., although but of
comparatively recent formation. A
collection originally formed here, and
containing a vast number of manu
scripts, was given to the University of
Upsala, by Gustavus II. Another
made by Christina was removed by
her to Rome, and added to the Library
of the Vatican. And the rich collec
tions subsequently formed, and par
ticularly by Charles X., were destroy
ed by fire in 1697. The founding of
the existing Library, therefore, dates
from that period, the largest additions
having been made at the end of the
last century. Amongst the curiosities
here is a Latin manuscript of the
Gospels, and supposed to be of the
6th or 7th century. It is known
as the Codex aureus, being written in
Gothic characters of gold, upon folio
leaves of vellum, alternately white
and violet. This book is additionally
ROUTE 60.STOCKHOLM. CHAPEL ROYAL.

interesting, from its containing an
Anglo-Saxon inscription, of which the
following is a translation : " In the
name of our Lord Jesus Christ, I,
Alfred, Aldorman (Senior or Prince),
and Werburg, my wife, got us this
book from a heathen war-troop with
our pure treasure, which was then of
pure gold. And this did we two for
the love of God, and for our soul's
behoof, and for that we would not
that this holy book should longer
abide in heathenesse ; and now will
we give it to Christ's Church, God to
praise, and glory, and worship, in
thankful remembrance of his passion,
and for the use of the holy brother
hood, who in Christ's Church do
daily speak God's praise, and that
they may every month read for
Alfred, and for Werburg, and for
Ahldryd (their daughter), their souls
to eternal health, as long as they
have declared before God that bap
tism (holy rites) shall continue in this
place. Even so I, Alfred, Dux, and
Werburg, pray and beseech in the
name of God Almighty, and of all
his saints, that no man shall be so
daring as to sell or part with this
holy book from Christ's Church, so
long as baptism there may stand.
(Signed) Alfred, Werburg, Ahldryd."
Sylvanus's Rambles in Sweden, p.
287. No trace appears to exist of
the history of this volume from the
time it was thus given to Canterbury
Cathedral until it was purchased in
Italy, and added to this library.
Here also is a huge manuscript copy
of the Bible, commonly called the
' ' Devil's Bible " from one of its illu
minations : it is written upon pre
pared asses' skin. It was found in
the Premonstratensian convent at
Prague when that city was taken by
the Swedes during the Thirty Years'
War. A copy of Koberger's Bible,
printed at Leyden, 1521, and the
margins of which are filled with an
notations by Martin Luther. Also
plans, and autographs of Gustavus
Sweden.
Adolphus and Charles XII., and a

good miniature of Gustavus Wasa.
Besides these, the Library is rich in
manuscripts and rare editions. A
splendid copy of the " Description de
VEgypte," prepared by the French
savans, who accompanied Napoleon
there, was presented by the late King
Bernadotte. In the N. W. wing of the
Palace, and entering from the front
court-yard, are the two following col
lections.
The Money and Medallion Cabinet
contains about 50,000 specimens. It
is particularly rich in Greek and
Roman examples, Oriental and AngloSaxon ; of the last most have been
found in Sweden.
The Cabinet of Northern Antiqui
ties, only shewn on Wednesdays,
is chiefly composed of objects found
in Sweden. It comprises ornaments
of gold and silver, enriched with
precious stones, urns, and other arti
cles of pottery, and a variety of ob
jects formed of stone, brass, bronze,
and iron. See a " Guide to North
ern Archaeology by the Royal Society
of Northern Antiquaries of Copen
hagen," edited for the use of English
readers by the late Earl of Ellesmere.
London, James Bain, 1840. With
so glorious a history as Sweden pos
sesses, it is surprising that a National
Historical Museum from the earliest
periods of the country to the present
time has not been formed. The col
lections in this palace, and elsewhere
scattered about, form ample materials
for it ; and if all were brought toge
ther under one large fire-proof build
ing, would not only be secured from
accident by fire, but also, if properly
arranged, form a most elevating and
instructive source of amusement for
the people.
The Chapel Royal in the Palace is
decorated in a florid style, but neither
the paintings nor the sculpture are of
much interest as works of art. The
Private Apartments are chiefly in the
N.E. side of the Palace. They are
Sweden.
ROUTE 60.CHURCHES.
occasionally allowed to be seen even

when the Royal Family are in Stock
holm. The entrance is by the grand
staircase on the S.E. side. Even if
the private apartments should not be
visible, a visit to the court yard and
this grand staircase should not be
omitted. The* King's Apartments
contain several pictures of consider
able merit, including a landscape, by
Domenichino, and an equestrian por
trait of Glustavus Adolphus. Also,
Bystrom's charming statue of Hero
watching the arrival of Leander. The
rooms are furnished for comfort
rather than luxury. His Majesty is
an artist, as well as an author, and
takes a keen interest in the advance
ment both of art and literature. The
Queen Dowager's Apartments contain
a series of pictures illustrative of the
leading events of Bernadotte's life.
Also, a cabinet of pictures, and
sculpture ; the latter by modern
Swedish artists. Of pictures, there
are about 140, chiefly of the Dutch
Bchool, but including some of the most
choice specimens. There are some
admirable portraits by Rembrandt,
K. du Jardin, Van der Heist, P. Bol.
Landscapes, by N. Berghem, K. du
Jardin, and Ph. Wouverman, in their
finest manner. And beautiful ex
amples of Rubens, Titian, Denner,
Ad. Ostade, Q. Dow, and Canaletto.
The collection is particularly rich in
specimens 'of Ph. Wouverman, Ad.
Ostade, and Rembrandt. Sergell's
Venus, and Bystrom'sDancingNymph,
both in this cabinet, are classed
amongst their finest works. The
State Apartments are spacious, but of
no particular interest.
Upon the Slottsbaclcen (the esplanade
on the S. of the Palace) is a granite
Obelisk 100 feet high, erected by
Glustavus IV., to commemorate the
zeal and fidelity of the citizens of
Stockholm, in the war with Russia of
1788-90. And lower down, near the
water, is a fine bronze Statue of Gustavus III. , by Sergell, and considered
325
his best work. It is admirably

placed on the spot where Gustavus
landed in triumph, 1790, after the
hard-fought battle of Svensksund, and
is a great ornament to the noble quay,
while it is seen to much advantage.
The Royal Stables for 146 horses,
are in the Helgeands-holmen, near the
Mint. They can be seen at any time,
are well worth a visit, and admirably
kept. Many of the horses are beau
tiful animals. All the stalls are
pared with wood.
The Churches are more numerous
than handsome. St. Nicolas is the
most ancient. It is upon the Slottsbacken, and the tower groups admir
ably with the Palace, breaking the
long straight line of the quadrangle,
and adding greatly to its picturesque
effect, and also of this portion of the
town. The view from this tower is
extensive and lovely, and amply re
pays the toil of the ascent. The in
terior of the church contains two large
pictures, by a much-esteemed Swedish
artist, Ehrenstrahl. The altar-piece
is elaborately carved in ebony, and
ornamented with gold, silver, and
ivory. It represents the birth, pas
sion, and resurrection of Jesus Christ.
The tombs are numerous, both an
cient and modern ; amongst the
latter is one by Bystrom. The helmet
and spurs of St. Olaf, of Norway,
are shown. They were taken from
his tomb, in Trondhjem Cathedral,
by Eric XIV. In the library of the
consistory "are many precious works
taken from a Convent of Jesuits, at
Olmiitz, during the Thirty Years'
War. The sovereigns are crowned in
this church.
The Biddarholms Kyrlcan (church)
is now only used as the Royal Mau
soleum. An appointment to see it
must be arranged with the Inspector,
who lives in the Palace. His fee
is 3 rix d. for one person or a
party.
This church is so highly
interesting, that no one should quit
Stockholm without seeing it. It
826
route 60.Stockholm. chueches.
was originally a Gothic structure, but

the churchwardening it has undergone
at various periods, and the sepulchral
chapels added to the sides, hare
effectually altered the original style.
It is, however, a picturesque struc
ture, and groups well with the adjoin
ing buildings. The ancient spire was
destroyed by lightning, about 22 years
since, and has been replaced with
another of cast-iron tracery, which,
though of light and elegant Gothic
design, does not harmonize so well
with the building as the old one,
which was very slender and tapering.
This spire is said to be formed of a
single casting.
Upon each side of the entrance in
the interior of the church, and be
neath the arches of the nave, are
equestrian figures elevated on pedes
tals, and clothed in the armour worn
by Birger Jarl, the founder of Stock
holm, and by several of the Swedish
kings. There are 11 figures in all;
of these, the armour of Charles IX.
is attributed to Benvenuto Cellini.
The whole suit is covered with elabo
rate designs, in high relief, of finished
and exquisitely-beautiful Florentine
workmanship. It is one of the most
costly and interesting specimens exist
ing, and probably belonged to Charles
IX., though perhaps not made for
him by Benvenuto Cellini, as he died
in 1570, and the King in 1611, aged
60. The shield of John III. is like
wise of the finest Italian workman
ship, and most beautifully and elabo
rately decorated. The vizor of Charles
VIII. 's helmet represents a man's face
with a large pair of mustaches. Much
of the armour here is, or is to be,
moved to a large building on the
west side of the Gustaf Adolf Torg,
north of the Norrbro, where it is to
be seen with the Royal Wardrobe.
The chapels in the nave contain
the tombs of some of the great cap
tains who served in the Thirty Years'
War, and others of the most illus
trious Swedish families.
Sweden-
But the sacred shrine here for every

true Protestant is in the choir, upon
the
the altar. the
There
repose
the right
mortalof remains#
chivalrous
and heroic champion of the Protestant
cause, the great Gustavus Adolphus.
He died, sword in hand and covered
with wounds, upon the field of Lutzen,
16th Nov. 1632. Around his tomb
are placed the trophies of his victo
riesstandards, drums, and keys of
towns ; several of his swords are
also placed there, and the clothes in
which he was killed, and which are
stained with his blood. His sarco
phagus bears the appropriate inscrip
tion " Moriens triumphamt," for he
died as he had lived, victorious alike
over his own passions and the enemies
of his faith and country.
In the opposite chapel is the tomb
of the fiery Charles XII. The walls
are hung with the trophies of his
various battles, including a standard
taken with his own hand, in Poland.
The hat, clothes, and sword worn by
him at the time of his death (see
Frederikshald) are preserved here.
The coffin of Charles XIV. (Bernadotte) is placed in the vault on the
right of the altar, together with
those of several others of the former
sovereigns, and their relatives.
On the walls of the choir are hung
the shields of the deceased knights of
the Seraphim (the highest order in
Sweden), and amongst which may be
seen that of Napoleon Buonaparte.
The Church of Adolphus Frederic
contains a large altar-piece in altorelievo, representing the Resurrection ;
and a monument to Descartes, both by
Sergell.
St. James's is celebrated for its
organ, which is considered the finest
in Sweden.
The Admiralty Clturch has an
altar-piece, by Sandberg, a Swedish
artist of high reputation.
In the Sodermalm, or S. suburb,
there are two large churches, Maria
and Katarine. Neither of these con
Sweden.
ROUTE 60.RIDDARHUSET.
tains works of art of much interest,

but the latter is admired for the
beauty of its proportions, and there is
a splendid view from the Clock Tower.
English Service is performed in the
chapel in the square of Charles XIII.
The French Protestant Church is
No. 5, Stora Ny Gatan, on the W. of
the Palace.
Jews are numerous in Stockholm,
and they have their synagogue.
The Riddarhus, or house of as
sembly of the nobles, is in the Ridderhustorget, not far from the Riddarholms Church. Exclusive of the
historical associations connected with
this building, h is of small interest.
The hall of assembly contains the
shields of about 3000 Swedish nobles.
Count Brahe and Baron Oxenstjerne
are the oldest creations, both cele
brated names in the history of their
country. That of Ankerstrom, who
shot Gustavus III. , has been changed
by the family, .who have likewise
taken a different name. The presi
dent's chair is of ebony and ivory,
and rather a good specimen of Dutch
workmanship.
Few spots are connected with such
heart-stirring events as have occurred
in this old hall. Here the first Gus
tavus, having made his country free,
received the willing homage of his
thankful countrymen ; here Gustavus
Adolphus, when about to begin that
career of conquest which terminated
only with his life, on the field of
Lutzen, addressed his assembled sub
jects in that exquisitely simple and
touching speech which the historian
of the Thirty Years' War has pre
served ; and here too, when the fatal
news arrived of his death, when her
strong resemblance to her sire kindled
into a sudden flame their wavering
loyalty, and one unanimous acclaim
declared her Sweden's queen, was the
infant Christina brought, to receive
the fealty of the estates of Sweden.
The whole body of the Swedish
nobility is about 13,500, or 1 in 222
327
of the whole population. But the

heads of families are alone entitled
to sit and to vote in the diet ; these
amount to about 2500, but only
about 700 usually attend, as numbers
of them are in extreme poverty, while
others are dissatisfied with the change
of dynasty. The nobles alone repre
sent their own class in the diet, which
meets every 5 years, exclusive of any
extraordinary one which may be
called in the interim. Mr. Laing
draws a melancholy picture of the
political profligacy of the Swedish
nobles, in his work on Sweden, p.
122.
The Statue of Gustavus Wasa is
in front of the Riddarhus. It is of
bronze, upon a pedestal of Swedish
marble, and represents the King in
the costume of his time, save the
wreath of laurel with which he is
crowned, and most injudiciously so, as
regards the effect of the statue. Much
cannot be said for it as a work of art.
The Mint is in the Mynt-gatan, and
as a building merits no attention, but
on the first floor of it is
The Cabinet ofMinerals andFossils.
Of the former there are upwards of
12,000 specimens.
The Gardens of the Horticultural
Society are in the Drottnings-gatan
and much frequented.
The Zoological Museum, in the
Academy of Sciences, is in the Drott
nings-gatan. Here Berzelius resided.
This Museum is open to the public
every Wednesday and Saturday, from
11 till 2, except in November and
December. It is considered to be
beautifully arranged and kept, and is
particularly rich in its collection of
Scandinavian Fauna.
The Carotin Institut contains a wellarranged collection of anatomical ob
jects, including some beautiful models
in wax by Gonzali of Florence ; Ma
teria mediea, and Botanical.
The Technological Institute.No.
43, Master Samuels Grand, amongst
many other objects, possesses a consi
828 BOTJTE 60.
STOCKHOLM.THEATRE.
derable and very instructive collection

of models.
The various Academies of art and
science in Stockholm enjoy a high
reputation in the north. Berzelius,
the great chemist and natural philo
sopher ; Fryxel and Geyer, the his
torians ; and Sergell and Bystrom, the
sculptors, are amongst the numerous
and celebrated men whom they have
produced.
Bystrbnis Studio and small
Museum are near the Drottningsgatan, and should be seen if pos
sible, as they contain many works of
a very high class.
The Garrison Hospital, the Seraphims, and Deaf and Dumb and
Blind Institution are beautifully ar
ranged, and said to be admirably
conducted. There are likewise
numerous other charitable establish
ments of great interest.
The Royal Theatre, on the E. side
of the Gustaf Adolfs Torg (square),
is at the foot of the New Bridge,
opposite the Palace. It was erected
by Gustavus III., and here he was
shot at a mask ball by Ankerstrbm,
on 15th March, 1792, and died on
the 29th. This theatre is spacious,
and well fitted up, particularly the
royal box, which occupies the centre
of the lower tier ; while the whole
curve of the pit is set apart for the
king's suit, and officers of the guard
on duty. It opens in September.
This is the scene of Jenny LinoVs
earliest efforts, as well as of the
crowning triumphs which her high
character, industry, and genius
have so justly gained her. She is
literally adored in Stockholm by all
classes, and by none more so than
by those who have the happiness of
being amongst the circle of her
friends. Mendelssohn, in speaking
of her, truly said, ' ' There will not
in a whole century be born another
being so gifted as she is." And
H. C. Andersen (in the True Story
of his Life, p. 199,) says, "On the
JENNY LIND. Sweden.
stage she is a great artist, rising

above all those around her; in her
own chamber a sensitive young girl,
with all the humility and piety of a
child." And again, at p. 200, when
she returned to Stockholm, after
having sung at Copenhagen, her
early and kind friend, the amiable
and talented Frederika Bremer, thus
wrote to him : " With ..regard to
Jenny Lind, as a singer, we are
both of us perfectly agreed, she
stands as high as any artist of our
time ever stood ; but as yet you do
not know her in her full greatness.
Speak to her about her art and you
will wonder at the expansion of her
mind, while you behold her counte
nance beaming with' inspiration.
Converse with her of God, and of the
holiness of religion, and you will see
tears in those innocent eyes ; she is
great as an artist, but still greater
in her pure human existence !"
On her return here from London,
where she sang for the first time, in
1847, her reception was overwhelm
ing, and with her accustomed munificient charity, she devoted the whole
of her salary at this theatre, during
the season, to the establishment of a
school for the gratuitous musical
education of the poor youth of both
sexes.
Opposite the theatre is the palace
of the Crown Prince. The Equestrian
statue in the centre of the square is
that of Gustavus Adolphus, and the
pedestal is ornamented with medal
lion portraits of Bauer, Wrangel, and
others of his celebrated officers. As
a work of art this statue is so un
worthy of Sweden and her most
glorious monarch, that we may hope
Swedish patriotism will replace it
with another more calculated to do
honour to both.
Another picturesque view of the
Palace is from the N. W. side of this
square, which, with the statue and
noble granite bridge, form an admi
rable foreground. This bridge, 640
Sweden.
ROUTE 60. DJURGARDEN.
feet long and 64 wide, and the

spacious quays with which it is con
nected, merit close attention, as, next
to the Palace, they are the most
beautiful structures in Stockholm.
They likewise form the most fashion
able promenade, and some of the best
Bhops are upon the bridge.
The Statue of Charles XIII. is in
the Torg (square) of that name upon
the E. of the theatre. The statue is
by Gothe, the 4 lions by Fogelberg,
both Swedish artists. The whole is
of bronze, upon a pedestal of polished
granite, and forms one of the best
monuments in the city. The square,
which was formerly the palace garden,
is prettily planted, and is much fre
quented. Statues by Bystrom of
Charles X., XI., and XII. are to be
erected in other portions of the city.
Continuing along the waterside to
the S.E., the finest view of the
Palace is obtained from the primitive
(but most useful and inexpensive)
Swedish floating bridge, which joins
the mainland with the Skepps-holmen, where most of the buildings
connected with the Admiralty are
placed. Another floating bridge
unites this island with Kastell-holmen, where the new citadel is worthy
of attention. There are some charm
ing walks about these small islands,
and they command the most pic
turesque portions of the city, with
the harbour in the foreground. From
the E. side of the Skepps-holmen
there is a ferry across the Admiralty
harbour to the park.
The DJurgdrd, or Deer Park, is
one of the great objects of attraction
in Stockholm. The inhabitants are
justly proud of it, as no capital in
Europe possesses one so highly pic
turesque. This park is of consider
able extent ; the ground is beauti
fully undulated, the oaks and other
trees are magnificent ; the masses of
rock grand, and the drives beautifully
kept. It is the great centre of at
traction during the short summer.
329
1 The villas, and places of amusement,

cafes, &c, are numerous, and, being
so close to the town, would be the
best place to procure lodgings for
those who intend to make any stay
at Stockholm in summer. There
would be no difficulty in obtaining
them. The best dinners 'to be ob
tained in Stockholm are to be had at
the " Hasselbacken Cafe" in the
Djurgard. For hours see above.
Passage-boats are continually cross
ing from the stairs beneath the
Palace. Fare, 2 skillings banco for
each person.
The Palace of Rosendal, built by
the late king, is in this park,
and commands a lovely view over a
branch of the fjord which intersects
it, and the Ladwjardsgard, or Re
view ground, in the distance, where
a camp is formed during summer, and
military spectacles are conducted
upon a grand scale. The king
seldom resides here, and the interior
may be seen. It is elegantly fur
nished, and contains numerous pic
tures of the best Swedish artists ; but
the school of painting in Sweden is at
present far inferior to that of sculp
ture. The celebrated Porphyry Vane
is upon the N. side of the Palace. It
is highly polished, formed of only
two blocks, and measures 12 feet in
diameter by 9 feet high. The form
is beautiful. It is from the ltoyal
Manufactory of Elfsdal, in Dalecarlia
(see Route 62), and stands upon a
block of unpolished granite 3 feet
high.
BystrGwCs Villa, not far from the
Palace, is one of the lions of the
park. It is highly decorated in the
Etruscan style, and although intended
as a residence, now forms a small
museum of sculpture by himself and
others which merits attention, as
well as some portions of the structure
of the villa. Each visitor pays a fee
of 16 sk. r.
The whole extent of this lovely
Park is about 3 miles in circumfe
330
rottte 60.Stockholm.shops, etc.
rence, and several hours may be

most delightfully employed in ex
ploring all parts of it. Ferry-boats
are continually going to and from the
quay opposite the Palace. They are
propelled by paddle-wheels worked
by women from Dalecarlia.
The JIaga Park is another charm
ing and favourite place of resort.
The way there is up Drottnings-gatan,
passing the Observatory on the right,
and through the N. Gate (Norr-Tull),
a short distance beyond which an
iron gate upon the right forms the
entrance. The numerous islands and
other portions of this park are pret
tily laid out, and many parts are
highly picturesque ; the ground is
very rocky and broken, and the trees
superb. There are two small Palaces
here. That of Haga was built by
the unfortunate Gfustavus III., and
the foundations of a still larger one
commenced by him will also be seen
here. The lake, which adds so much
to the beauty of this park, is the
Brunsviken. It communicates with
the fjord, and its banks are so lovely,
that it should be seen throughout its
whole extent, which may readily be
done by the passage-boats which ply
upon it every hour. They start from
a small inn, called StaMmastregarden, near the N. gate of the
city.
The Cemetery is close to the Park
of Haga. It is well planted and laid
out, and many of the tombs are in
teresting and beautifully kept. The
custom of planting graves with shrubs
and flowers prevails extensively in
Sweden.
Near to the cemetery is the church
of Solna, said to be one of the most
ancient in Sweden. Its tower dates
back to the days of Paganism. In its
church-yard are buried Berzelius, and
Geyer. Passing this church, a short
distance to the W., is
The Park of Carlberg, which, in
the heat of summer, is another
charming place, the trees, if possible,
Sweden.
being finer than in the other parks ;

but they are more frequented than
this.
The Palace here was one of the
favourite residences of Charles XII.,
but has long been occupied as the
Krigs-Akademi, or Military College.
There is little of interest in the
interior, except a collection of old por
traits, chiefly of the royal families.
From this park a long and fine
avenue leads back to the city, or a
seat can be taken in the passage-boat,
which every half-hour plies on the
branch of the Malar Lake opposite
the Palace.
Shops. (It is the custom for all
gentlemen to take off their hats on
entering a shop and to remain un
covered while there. )The best book
sellers (where views of Stockholm,
Swedish maps, and the small road
book of stations and distances an
nually published, may be purchased)
are at the N.W. corner of Gustavus
Adolphus' Square, and upon the New
Bridge. The prices asked at all
booksellers is in banco ; at all other
shops in rix. At the Music Shops
upon the bridge collections of national
Swedish airs may be had. Parosin,
in the Norra Smedje-gatan, No. 18,
is an excellent bootmaker, and most
reasonable in his prices. Some of
the best tailors are in the same street,
which is on the N. of the theatre.
Beautiful as the Swedish iron is,
English cutlery is almost exclusively
used here. The only good cutler is
Stille, near the School of Anatomy,
in the Kungsholmen.
The Royal Porphyry Warehouse
is upon the N. side of Brunkebergs
Torget. Some of the vases, &c, kept
there for sale are very beautiful, both
in form and workmanship, as well as
colour. There are no less than 64
varieties of porphyry found in Swe
den. The manufactory is at Elfsdal
in Dalecarlia.
The Police Office is in Helgeandsholmen, No. 9, and open from 10
Sweden.
ROUTE CO.ENVIRONS.
till 4 daily, except on Sunday. Pass

ports are retained till called for, and
travellers will be charged 3 d. 15 sk. r.
for a new one should they enter the
country without the vise" of a Swedish
minister or consul. But they have
a right to their old passports also.
A British Minister, and Consul,
reside in Stockholm.
Droskis may usually he met with
in Brunkebergs Torget, and their
charges are very moderate. Excel
lent private carriages may also be had.
Passage-boats are constantly run
ning from different parts of the
town to the park sand other mostfrequented places. They are very
cheap, and used by all classes. These
boats are worked by Dalecarlians,
chiefly by the women. These mosthonest and industrious people come to
Stockholm during summer, and return
with their savings to Dalecarlia in
winter. Their wages consist of onehalf the earnings of the boat. The
other goes to the proprietor of it.
The women are called Dahlkulla, and
their dress is highly picturesque.
These Dalecarlian damsels do not
readily obtain husbands in their own
splendid valleys if they stay too long
in Stockholm, particularly after the
summer season is over. They are
generally very plain, but have exqui
site teeth, and are a most simpleminded, merry-hearted race. For
Dalecarlia, see Route 62.
The Environs. Stockholm is so
much surrounded and intersected by
the waters of the Baltic and the
Malar Lake, and the natural beauties
of its situation are so great on all
sides, that no one must rest satisfied
or can form a just idea of this pic
turesque capital -without thoroughly
exploring its immediate neighbour
hood, and also a few of the most
charming spots in the country around
it.
Drottningholm (Queen's Island) is
one of the thousands of lovely isles
of the Malar Lake, and lies 1 m. W.
331
of Stockholm. The Palace here is

considered one of the finest in
Sweden, and was built from the
designs of the celebrated Count
Tessin by the widow of Charles X. ,
in the 17th century. It contains a
fine library and a collection of pic
tures, coins, &c. The gardens are
decorated with statues in bronze and
marble in the Louis XIV. style. The
park and grounds in the neighbour
hood of this palace are charming.
Wood, rock, and water, all are here
combined in such perfection as are
but rarely met with in any part of
Europe. Steamers run daily every
2 hours between Stockholm and
Drottningholm. Passage about 45
minutes. Fare, Chief Cabin, J d. b.
The road, in going by land, passes
through picturesque scenery, and over
several long floating bridges. There
is a very fair restaurant (Yardshus)
on Drottningholm, where dinners, &c.
may be had.
The Palace of Svartsjd, in a small
island near that of Drottningholm, is
very interesting, as having been the
residence of the glorious Gustavus
Adolphus during the time that some
of his most important designs were
discussed and matured.
Rosenberg is another royal palace,
which was a favourite summer resi
dence of the late King Bernadotte,
and is celebrated here for the richness
and elegance of its furniture and
decorations. The park abounds in
lovely spots and scenery of a sylvan
character. It is near the Malar Lake,
and about 3 m. from Stockholm.
Rydboholm is about 3 m. from
the city down the fjord. The cha
teau here belongs to the Brahe
family. It possesses great historical
interest, as having been the residence
of Gustavus Wasa in his childhood.
His study, and an oak planted by
him in the garden, are still shown.
Another lovely spot, and of the
greatest historical interest, is that of
Gripsholm, also an island in the
bouxe 60. Stockholm. steamers.

Malar Lake, and 7 m. from Stock
holm. Steamers are frequently going
there. The palace was built by
Gustavus Wasa, but considerably
altered and enlarged in the time of
Gustavus III. Here Eric- XIV.,
John III., and the deposed Gustavus
IV., were all imprisoned at different
periods of their eventful lives, and
their rooms are still shown. There
is a large collection of about 1800
historical portraits, besides a mass of
other objects, arms, ornaments, &c.,
connected with Swedish history, and
which would form an invaluable
addition to that grand national his
torical museum, which it is to be
hoped may be established in Stock
holm. The voyage to and from
Gripsholm also affords an opportunity
of seeing some of the most lovely
portions of the Malar Lake.
Strengjtds, on the S. side of the
Malar Lake, 32 Eng. m. W. of Stock
holm, is interesting for its Cathedral,
founded by an English missionary,
St. .ffischil, in the 12th century. The
sacristy contains some costly antique
plate. The daily steamers to Weste
rn call at Strengnas.
Upsala.No one who can spare
the time for it should quit Sweden
without visiting this most interesting
city. (See next Route.)
Steamers. (Berths cannot be se
cured without at the same time leav
ing the traveller's passport at the
steam-boat office, from whence it is
handed over to the captain of the
vessel.) It must be remembered,
that the days of the steamers are
liable to change from month to month.
Travellers must provide themselves
with the latest " Angbats-Kalender."
For Lvheck every Thursday at 8 a.m.,
calling at Kalraar and Ystad : and on
Saturday nights, calling at Norrkbping. Pare, Chief Cabin, 33 d. b. ;
Cabin, 40 d. b. , exclusive of food ;
1 d. b. must be paid for each dinner,
whether it be eaten or not ; other
meals are at discretion. Distance,
Sweden.
about 500 Eng. m. , and average pas

sage 65 hours. To St. Petersburg,
weekly during the Baltic season by
the Hull, Stockholm, and St. Peters
burg boats, calling at Abo, in Finland,
Helsingfors, and Reval. Pare, Chief
Cabin, 41J d. b. ; average, passage, 4
days, stopping 1 day at Abo. Time
from Stockholm to Abo, about 30
hours. Care must be taken to have
passports vise' by the Russian minister
or consul here, without which berths
cannot be taken, nor are passengers
allowed to land in Russia. The con
sul's vise costs 1 d. b. Those who
intend to land at Abo and travel by
land in Russia are strongly recom
mended to purchase a carriage in
Stockholm and take it with them. If
this be not done they will be at the
mercy of the landlord of the hotel in
Abo, and have to pay a heavy price
for a ricketty, worthless machine,
painted and patched up for sale. To
Wisby, in Gottland, on Wednesdays
and Saturdays at noon, returning from
Wisby on Sundays and Thursdays at
6 p.m. Average passage,' 24 hours.
Fare, Chief Cabin, 8 d. b. To Kalmar, see above, and Route 74, four
or five times a week. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 15 d. b. (N.B. Boats from
Kalmar to Wisby on Wednesdays
and Saturdays at 6 p.m.) To Stettin
by the Royal Prussian mail boats on
Tuesdays at 8 a.m., calling at Kal
mar and Swinemunde. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 33J d. b. To Haparanda
(calling at all the towns upon the
coast) about twice a week in summer.
Average passage, 5 days. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 33^ d. b. As far as Sundsvall, on the road to Trondhjem,
Route 64, 13J d. b.
To Gottenburg, by the Gotha Canal,
almost every day, see Route 63. To
Upsala every morning at 8 in about 6
hours. Fare, 2 d. b., calls at Sigtuna and Skokloster. To Norrtelje,
upon the coast about 50 Eng. m. N. E.
of Stockholm, 4 times a week. Passage
6 hours. Fare, Chief Cabin, 3 d. b.
Sweden.
KODTE 61.LONDON TO STOCKHOLM.
To Orebro (see Route 67) every Wed

nesday, Friday, and Sunday at 5 a. m.,
calling at Strengnas on the S. side of
the Malar, in 14 hours. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 5 d. b. To Wester&s (see
Route 67) daily, also calling at
Strengnas, in 8 hours. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 2 d. b. To Arboga (in Route
67) every Tuesday and Friday at 7
a.m., calling at Strengnas and Thorshalla, in 12 hours. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 3 J d. b. To Mariefred, on
the S. side of the Malar Lake, calling
at Gripsholm, every Sunday, Tues
day, Thursday, and Saturday at
9 a.m., in 4 hours. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 1 J d. b. Boat returns same
evening to Stockholm. To NorrkSping, and also to Nyk&ping, calling
at Sodertelje, see Route 70. To Westervik, see Route 74, 3 times a week.
To Carlshamn, twice a week, calling
at Westervik, Kalmar, and Carlscrona, see Route 74. To Hemosand,
calling at all the stations between
Stockholm and Hemosand, on Satur
days at 8 p.m. To Sundsvall, Route
64, on Sundays, Wednesdays, and
Fridays in about 40 hours, touching
at intermediate stations.
Fares,
Chief Cabin, 13J d. b.
Carriages will be taken by all these
steamers, and the average charge for
their transport is, for 4-wheel car
riages, equal to f of 2 Chief Cabin
fares ; and for those of 2 wheels half
that sum. For Land travelling in
Sweden, the following hints may be
useful :Take an ample supply of
small money (paper is preferred by
the peasants), as change of any kind
is most difficult to obtain even in the
towns. The lightest carriage that
can be obtained, whether of 4 or 2
wheels, will be found the best, and,
if going into Norway, is essential.
In the latter case let a 4-wheeled
carriage be fitted with shafts, as the
Norwegian horses are unused to traces.
See also p. 111. There are several
good carriage-makers in Stockholm,
where carriages may be hired or pur
333
chased; this is the best plan if not

returning to Stockholm. Buy new
harness, which is cheap, and fits any
horse. A coil of rope, string, and a
few stout straps, and a winch for the
wheels, Should he taken ; and a basket
with a small supply of provision,
which should be replenished whenever
the opportunity occurs. A diligence
runs from Stockholm to Upsala daily
at 9 A. M. , starting from Grustaf Adolfs
Torg. Fare, 4 d. b. Another runs
twice a week, on Sundays and Wed
nesdays at 9 a.m., from Stockholm to
Gottenburg, by Route 68, and on to
Helsingborg, Route 77, making the
journey to Gottenburg in 5 days, and
to Helsingborg in 7. Fare to Helsing
borg, 35 d. b.
ROUTE 61.
LONDON TO STOCKHOLM BY RAILWAY
FROM OSTEND TO BERLIN AND STET
TIN, AND FROM TIIENCE CROSSING
THB BALTIC TO KALMAR.
Dist. about 1160 Eng. m., see
Route 2, as far as Hanover.
From London to Hanover travellers
have also the choice of Route 3 by
Antwerp, and Route 4 by Rotterdam.
Hanover, see Inns, Sec., in Route 2.
Railway, Hanover to Brurmtnck.
Trains leave 4 times a day, and
take about \\ hour. Fares, lstclass,
39 g. gro. ; 2nd class, 26.
N. B. As the Handbook for North
ern Germany contains full parti
culars regarding all the towns in
this Route, the principal objects
will be stated as briefly as possible.
Brunswick (Germ. Braunschweig).
Inns : Hotel d'Angleterre the best.
Das Deutsche Haus, Rheinischer Hof,
H6tel de Prusse, and Prinz Wilhelm.
This little capital of the Duchy has
38,000 inhabitants, and, after Nu
remberg, is one of the most pictur
esque of all the old German towns.
331
ROUTE 61.
LONDON TO STOCKHOLM.
The principal objects are the New

"Palace: the Museum, which contains
a few pictures of very great excellence,
particularly of the Dutch school :
also collections of antiquities and
Natural History; the Cathedral of
St. Blaise ; the old Rathhaus ; Cloth
Hall and Gothic Fountain ; the
Obelisk ; Schill's monument and
chapel, and the railway station.
Railway, Brunswick to Magdeburg.
Trains leave 4 times a day, and
take about 4 hours. Fares, 1st class,
68 g. gro. ; and 2nd, 55.
Magdeburg. Inns : Erzherzog
Stephen, close to the station, is
good. Stadt London, and Stadt Pe
tersburg. This capital of Prussian
Saxony is upon the Elbe, is strongly
fortified, and has a population of
66,000. The cathedral is one of the
finest Gothic edifices in Germany.
The public gardens are extensive, and
command fine views.
Railway, Magdeburg to Berlin.
Trains 5 times a day, which take
about 6 hours. Fares, 1st class, 140
s. gro. ; and 2nd, 100.
Potzdam (the last station previous
to Berlin). Inns: Der Einsiedler
(the Hermit), good. Das Deutsche
Haus. Goldner-Adler. There is a
good restaurant at the Bahnhof.
Population about 32,359, exclusive of
' the large garrison always here. The
leading objects are the Garrison
Church, where Frederick the Great is
buried ; the New Church ; the Royal
Palace in the town ; that of Sans
Souci just outside the gates, and a
favourite summer residence of the
king ; the villa of Charlottenhof with
in the gardens of the Palace of Sans
Souci ; the Russian Colony, and the
Marble Palace.
Beiuin. Inns: Stadt Rom, and
Meinharts Hotel, both on the Unter
den Linden, and very good ; the latter
has the most celebrated table d'hote
in Berlin. Hotel de Russie, also
good ; Hotel de Petersburg ; Hfitel de
Sweden.
Brandenburg, comfortable ; British

Hotel, good and clean; Hotel du
Nord ; Goldner-Adler ; H6tel de l'Europe, and several others. All the
best houses are in or near the Unter
den Linden, which is the best part of
the city. Berlin is built upon a level
plain, and has 426,602 inhabitants.
Some of the collections here are of
great interest. The chief objects of
importance are the buildings and
statues upon the Unter den Linden
and the Brandenburg Gate, which ter
minates it. The Royal Palace and
the Kunstkammer there, which con
tains a large collection of objects of
art, &c, of various kinds. The
Museum, which comprises extensive
and fine collections of vases, bronzes,
and gems, antique sculpture, and pic
tures by the old masters. The Royal
Library ; the University ; the Museum
of Natural History ; the Anatomical
Museum ; the Egyptian Museum ; the
Arsenal; the Studios of .Professor
Rauch, and other eminent sculptors
and artists ; and the theatres. Also
the park outside the Brandenburg
Gate ; the Winter Garden there, and
the Palace of Charlottenburg, where
may be seen the monumental statue
of the late Queen of Prussia, which is
oneof Professor's Rauch's finestworks.
Railways to Hamburg, Dresden,
Vienna, Hanover and Cologne, and
Berlin to Stettin.
Trains 3 times a day, which take
about 4 hours. Fares, 1st class, 105
s. gro. ; and 2nd, 82J.
Stettin. Inns: Hotel de Prusse,
Drei Kronen. This is the capital of the
province of Pomerania; it is strongly
fortified, and contains 50,058 inhabit
ants. Several of the old buildings here
are picturesque, such as the Schloss ;
the Schloss Kirche ; Wall Kirche; St.
Jacobi ; and the Rathhaus. The new
Borse is handsome, and there is a sta
tue of Frederick the Great by Schadow.
Steamers to Stockholm. The Nagler or Nordstjern every Tuesday about
Sweden.
boute 62.Stockholm to upsala.
335
8 a.m., in connection with the train kloster. Carriages are taken by these
from Berlin, calling at Swinemunde boats. For those intending to return
and Kalmar. Fares to Stockholm, to Stockholm the best plan is to go
Chief Cabin, 33J d. b. See Boute 60. by land and return by water, hiring
Time about 40 hours. To Copenha a carriage there, and sending it back
gen on Wednesdays and Saturdays at from Upsala by the steamer. The
noon. Fares, 74 Danish rix dollars. carriage should be of the lightest de
Besides others to the Isle of Rugen scription, and for those proceeding
(see Route 60) and to Swinemunde, in beyond Falun a carriole is the most
advisable carriage for the journey.
6 hours.
Swinemunde has become the out- Only carts without springs are kept
port of Stettin, most of the large at the station-houses.
A diligence also leaves Stockholm
steamers lying here. Inm : Olthoffs,
Kron-Prinz. Situated upon the Bal every morning at 9 for Upsala, start
tic, it has become much frequented ing from the Gustaf Adolf Torg.
as a bathing place, and contains 3500 Fares, inside, 4 d. b. ; outside, 3 d. b.
The entire distance from Stockholm
inhabitants. A fortress is to be built
^to Elfdal is 39| S. m., or 268 E.,
here.
Swinemunde is about 50 miles from and the highly-interesting journey
Stettin, down the great lake of Haff, there and back to Stockholm may be
which is formed by the waters of the easily accomplished in about 1 4 days,
Oder. Steamers take about 6 hours allowing sufficient time to see every
thing, and for a ramble amongst the
from Stettin.
On passing Swinemunde, and enter Daleearlian villages en route. To see
ing the Baltic upon the W. , the coast the costumes to advantage a Sunday
and afterwards the island of Rugen should be passed in Dalecarlia. This
route is likewise so arranged that it
remain in sight for some time.
Kalmar is reached in about 12 may be taken on the way to Trondhours. See Route 60, which is joined hjem or Tornea.
here ; and the rest of the voyage to
The Malar Lake.
Stockholm can either be continued by
Soon after leaving Stockholm, and
the steamer, or the capital may be
reached by land, according to Route passing the lovely island, Drottningholm, on the W., the steamer pro
74.
ceeds up the most N. branch of the
Malar, which is very winding and
ROUTE 62.
irregular in form, having numerous
STOCKHOLM TO OPSALA, THE DANE- bays
and small islands. The banks
MORA IRON MINES, THE COPPER
generally low, but picturesque
MINES AT FALUN, AND THE ROYAL are
the variety of outline, and fine
PORPHYRY WORKS AT ELFDAL IN from
masses of rock, crowned for the most
DALECARLIA.
part with noble forest trees, the pine
This route is altogether the most and fir being the most abundant.
interesting in Sweden, and no one About 4 hours from Stockholm the
who has time to take it should quit old town of Sigtuna is seen upon the E.
the country without doing so. The A boat comes off to land such of the
distance by land to Upsala is 47 E. m. passengers as may desire to go there.
Sigtuna. The station-house is
See Route 64. A steamer leaves the
Ridderholm quay every morning at 8, smatl, but lodgings may readily be
and occasionally in the afternoon as obtained at a private house. This
well ; average passage, 6 hours. Fare, town is of higher antiquity than any
2 d. b. Calls at Sigtuna and Sko- other in Sweden. Here it was that
330
route 62. Stockholm to upsala.
Sweden.
Odin first established himself, and the Thirty Years' War. It forms
thence the name of the town from a large quadrangle, with octagon
his original name of Sigge, and Tuna towers at each corner, and an open
in the ancient language of the country, court in the centre, all the best rooms
signifying town. He caused temples being upon the first floor. Placed on
to be built here, and sacrifices to be a high bank, it commands lovely
annually made at stated seasons ; thus views over the Malar Lake and dis
laying the foundation for his own tant country. The gardens are well
worship as a god, which ultimately kept and contain a fine avenue of
prevailed for centuries throughout lime trees. This chateau came into
Scandinavia and a great portion of the Brahe family by marriage with
the N. of Europe. Dunham's that of Wrangel.
The collections here are extensive
Sweden, v. i. p. 31. Here, like
wise, cultivation was first introduced and interesting. They include a num
into this part of Sweden. In the ber of portraits of the most celebrated
time of Odin the town was fortified. Swedes, as well as those of the family.
It was destroyed more than once ; on Amongst the latter are Tycho Brahe,
the last occasion by pirates from Fin and the lovely Ebba Brahe, to whom
land, in 1187. Geyer's Sweden, pp. Gustavus Adolphus was so fondly at
32 and 68. The only remains of its tached, that he would have made her
former prosperity are the church and his queen, but for the persuasion and
three towers, which to the antiquary schemes of his mother, who, during
are highly interesting. Fallen from his absence, married her to one of
its high estate, the town has now the most distinguished nobles of the
only about 400 inhabitants, who are day, the Count Jacques de la Gardie.
chiefly employed in the manufacture Several of the king's letters to Ebba
of coarse pottery. The walks amongst Brahe are still preserved in the li
the woods and rocks in the neighliour- brary here. Geyer's Sweden, p. 308.
hood are charming, and command ex One room is devoted to souvenirs of
tensive views of the lake. About numerous sovereigns and other illus
half an hour from Sigtuna, up the trious visitors of the Brahe family.
lake towards Upsala, on the W., is
Another contains a good statue by
Skokloster, the large antique cha Bystrom of the late King Bernateau of the Count Brahe, the oldest dotte, attired as one of the Scandi
and most distinguished noble family navian gods ; also his sword, orders,
in all Sweden. The present possessor &c, given by him to the late Count
is a lineal descendant of the great Brahe, who was one of his most de
astronomer Tycho Brahe, and like voted adherents, and always with
wise of the Count Brahe, who com him after he was elected Crown
manded the centre of the Swedish Prince. The drawing-room ceiling is
army under Gustavus Adolphus, at a very elaborate specimen of the deco
the battle of Lutzen. On a signal ration in vogue during the 1 7th cen
from the steamer a boat puts off from tury. There is some fine tapestry,
the chateau for passengers who wish much of which is used as carpets !
to land there. Beds and food may A rare old cabinet of inlaid work,
be obtained at the Inspector's house the subjects coloured, and in high
close to the chateau, which the family relief; it is of Bavarian workman
most kindly allow to be seen whether ship, and a prize of the Thirty Tears'
they are residing there or not.
War. Other cabinets contain a va
Skokloster was built about 1630, riety of costly objects of art, such as
by Gustavus Wrangel, one of the old drinking cups, family plate, &c,
most celebrated Swedish generals of and a few specimens of Venetian glass.
Sweden.
eoute 62. upsala..THE CATHEDRAL.
The Library contains about 23, 000

volumes, besides the largest private
collection of manuscripts in Sweden.
There are two extensive armouries in
the upper part of the mansion ; that
in the S. side was collected by the
Wrangel family, and, amongst a va
riety of armour and weapons of seve
ral nations, contains the shield of
the Emperor Charles XII. It was
taken at Prague, and for the elabo
rate design of the subjects in relief
upon it and their exquisite finish,
merits attentive examination as one
of the finest works of Benvenuto
Cellini. The armoury on the N. side
was formed by the Brahe family, and
exclusive of a number of beheading
swords and other weapons, to which
an historical interest attaches on ac
count of the persons who have suf
fered by or worn them, contains fine
collections of swords and lire-arms of
various periods. The usual fee to
the Inspector is 3 ds. rix.
Those who are desirous of giving
only two days to Upsala and this in
teresting chateau had better go direct
from Stockholm to Upsala, where the
boat arrives at 2. On arriving there
order a carriage to be ready at 6. 30,
drive to the chateau of the Baron
Soderstrbm at Krucensberg, at the
back of which there is a fisherman's
hut, where a boat can be obtained
across the lake to Skokloster, which
may thus be reached in 3 hours from
Upsala. See the chateau early in the
following morning, and take the
steamer on its way to Stockholm at
9. 30. The carriage and horses from
Upsala cost about 6 rix ds., and the
boat from Krucensberg 1.24 rix.
On leaving Skokloster the banks of
the lake become more cultivated to
wards the head of it, where the boat
enters a small stream, the Fyris ;
first the great plain, and soon after
wards the ruined castle and the city
of Upsala, come in sight.
Upsala. Inns : Of the two or
three here the station-house is recom
337
mended as the best. It is not far

distant from the quay where the
steamer lies, and is near the cathe
dral, &c. The population is about
7200, besides the students of the
University.
Upsala for centuries remained the
capital of Sweden, and is intimately
connected with many of the leading
events recorded in its history.
Most of the principal buildings are
upon a high ridge of ground upon the
W. side of the town, and from whence
fine views are obtained over the ap
parently boundless plain to the N.
and E.
The Cathedral is the great attrac
tion here. It is of brick, in the
Gothic style, and in the days of its
glory was a beautiful structure ; even
now it is of the highest interest, spite
of the restorations it has undergone,
and those generally in the worst taste.
The W. front is flanked by two
square towers, which originally were
crowned with Gothic spires of most
picturesque design. This cathedral
was commenced in 1258, and finished
in 1435. Its extreme length is 330
feet by 140 ; and its height 105.
Le Has' Sweden, p. 477. The pro
portions of the interior are very
pleasing ; the capitals of some of the
columns are decorated with animals
of most grotesque form, and in high
relief. Engravings from them, as
well as of other portions of the ca
thedral, have recently been published
in Stockholm. Beneath the organ
lie the remains of the great Linnans,
and in a side chapel in the N. aisle
is a fine mural tablet of red porphyry,
with a medallion bronze portrait of
him in profile, by Sergell. The in
scription beneath denotes that this
monument was erected by his friends
and disciples, 1798, being just 20
years after his death. The tomb of
Gustavus Wasa, and two of his three
wives, is in the Lady Chapel, which
has been recently decorated with
much skill and good taste. The
<i
338
route 6'2.ursALA..the university.
leading events of Gustavus Wasa's

life are here illustrated in seven com
partments, by the Professor Sandberg, in fresco. Commencing from
the N. side, the 1st compartment re
presents the Triumphal Entry of Gus
tavus into' Stockholm ; 2nd, the
Battle between the Danes and Dalecarlians ; 3rd, Gustavus before the
Town Council of Lubeck ; 4th, in
Disguise, as a Dalecarlian Peasant ;
5th, his Harangue to the Peasants ;
6th, Presentation of the Bible to
him ; and 7th, his Address from the
Throne to his last Parliament. He
was born 1490 ; delivered his country
from the Danish yoke, and was ulti
mately elected king, 1523 ; and died,
1560. Several other Swedish kings
are also buried in this cathedral.
The tomb of John III. and his queen
is interesting. It was made in Italy,
and wrecked near Dantzic, on its
way to Sweden. Nearly 60 years
after, it was fished up and placed
here. The statue of John formerly
held a sceptre in its hand. An anec
dote is related of Gustavus Adolphus,
who, upon seeing the statue, wrenched
the sceptre from its hand, saying,
' ' When alive you wrested the sceptre
from your brother Eric, I now take
it from you and restore it to him."
He then caused it to be placed upon
Eric's tomb, at Wester-as, where it
now is. Several of the great gene
rals who served under Gustavus
Adolphus -are likewise buried here.
The relics of St. Eric are preserved
in a shrine of silver. Various objects
of much value, and others of histo
rical interest, are shown by the sa
cristan. Amongst them are the
sacrament service of gold and silver ;
the crowns and sceptres of John III.
and his queen ; a cup of pure' gold
between 2 and 3 feet high ; a statue
of the Scandinavian god, Thor ; the
clothes worn by Nils Sture, when
assassinated by Eric XIV. with his
own hand, 1566, and with the dagger
presented to him at the moment, by
Sweden.
Nils, in token of his loyalty (unham's Sweden, v. iii. p. 207); also some
souvenirs of that warlike and ambi
tious dame Queen Margaret.
The archbishop of Upsala is the
primate of all Sweden ; prior to the
Reformation finally established under
Gustavus Wasa, 1529, the revenues
of this see were very great.
The University of Upsala was _
founded 1477, one year before that
at Copenhagen. It has always held
a more distinguished rank than its
only rival in Sweden, that of Lund,
which dates from 1666. Upsala has
about 47 professors, upwards of 1450
students upon the books, 900 of
whom are in attendance, and who
reside in private houses in the town.
They are distinguished by their white
caps with a narrow band of black and
a small rosette of the Swedish na
tional colours in front. The total
cost of a student's expenses here
during the two annual terms is esti
mated at 602. No one in Sweden
can enter the clerical, medical, or
legal profession, without haying taken
his degree at Upsala or Lund, and it
has been calculated that of the total
male population of the whole king
dom 1 in every 668 enjoys an uni
versity education. Laing's Sweden,
.p. 243. Gustavas Wasa was partly
educated here, and when he came to
the throne, became one of its most
liberal benefactors. The present King
Oscar was also brought up at this
university, residing, whilst here, at
the archbishop's palace. The chief
building of consequence connected
with this university is
The Library, which is now placed
in a handsome building erected for
the purpose, on the W. of the town.
It contains about 130,000 printed
books and 7000 manuscripts. Amongst
the latter is "the celebrated Codex
arcjenteus, being a copy of the 4 Gos
pels, as translated into the McesoGothic language, by Bishop Ulfilas, at
the latter end of the fourth century.
Sweden.
route 62. botanical gardens, etc.
It is written in letters of silver,

(whence its name), upon vellum, of
a pale purple colour : the characters
are nearly identical with the Runic.
Both the beginning and the end of
the MS. are wanting ; but, considering
its great antiquity, its present state of
preservation is surprising. It is in
teresting, and highly valuable, as
the oldest monument of the Teutonic
language, which was first written by
Bishop Ulfilas, who thus fixed the
standard of the Gothic tongue. This
copy was probably made by OstroGothic scribes, in Italy, at the end
of the fifth or beginning of the sixth
century."H. L. It belonged ori
ginally to an abbey in Westphalia.
How such a treasure came there no
record exists to tell. From thence it
went to Cologne, and, subsequently,
to Prague, where it fell into the
hands of Kohigsmark, at the cap
ture of - that city. Again, it wan
dered with the learned Vossius to
Amsterdam ; and, upon his death
(1669), was purchased by the Swedish
chancellor De la Gardie, _who pre
sented it to the university of Upsala.
Here also may be seen an old Ice
landic Edda, and several illuminated
missals ; a Bible, containing auto
graph annotations of Luther and Melancthon ; the Journal of Linnaeus ;
and the first book ever printed in
Sweden, " Dialogus creaturarum Moralizatus," printed in 1483. The
library is particularly rich in fo
reign as well as native works, and the
whole are admirably arranged and
kept. Students and residents in the
town are allowed to read here. In
a small room adjoining the library
are preserved a few relics and por
traits of some of the late dynasty,
and amongst the latter is the only
authentic likeness of Gustavus Wasa.
There is also the famous Italian
cabinet, which, like many other cu
riosities in Sweden, was taken by the
great Gustavus Adolphus, during the
Thirty Years' War, and presented to
339
the university of Upsala by his

daughter Christina. A large hall in
the upper story is used for conferring
academic degrees and as a concert
room. And from the roof a most
extensive view is obtained.
The Botanical Garden is a short
distance on the W. of the library. It
contains a museum of natural his
tory, but it is not rich in specimens,
nor are they well kept. Here there
is the large elk, which is still occa
sionally found in the greSt forests of
Sweden and Norway. The most in
teresting object in the museum is a
good statue of Linnaeus, by Bystrom.
It represents him in the act of lec
turing upon his favourite flower, the
Linnea Borealis.
The Palace, erected by Gustavus
Wasa, remains in the half-ruinous
state to which it was reduced by
fire, in 1 702. Only a portion of the
original building is now habitable,
and forms the residence of the Go
vernor of the province of Upsala.
From part of the Tuins there is a
good view of the town, and old
Upsala, on the N. Here also there
is a colossal bust, in bronze, of Gus
tavus Wasa, mounted on a pedestal
formed of cannon taken from the
Russians.
The House of Linnams and the old
botanical gardens are across the
stream, on the E. side of the town.
For persons fond of literary or sci
entific pursuits Upsala has great at
tractions. It is a very healthy place
exceedingly cheapthe library, we
have seen, is most extensiveand
foreigners are received by the pro
fessors in the kindest and most
friendly manner. The houses in the
town are mostly of wood, and very
neatly kept. They are comfortable,
being warmer in winter and cooler
in summer than dwellings of brick
or stone.
Steamer to Stockholm every morn
ing early, and on Sundays at 3 p.m.,
calling at Sigtuna and Skokloster.
<j 2
340
ROUTK 62. OLD UPSALA.
Passage about 6 hours. Fare, Chief

Cabin, 2 d. b.
Excursions: from Upsala.
Provisions should be taken from
hence for the tour in the country.
The station-houses provide but little
besides milk, eggs, smoked salmon,
and rye bread.
Old Upsala is about 3 Eng. m. N.
of the new town. It is now reduced
to a small village, but next to Sigtuna is of*the highest antiquarian
interest. It was* here, after the
dynasty and worship of Odin were
firmly established in the country,
that the national temple was erected,
and the great sacrifices annually
made. Here likewise justice was
personally administered by the kings,
and the Tings, or great assemblies of
the people, were held. A sacred wood
then surrounded the temple, and
sacrifices of every description were
made to propitiate the deities wor
shipped there, human blood being
deemed the most acceptable to them.
On some occasions parents even im
molated their children. An account
exists of 72 bodies of men and ani
mals having been seen at the same
time suspended from the trees of this
sacred wood. The temple was re
splendent with gold, and in the in
terior decorated with the statues of
Odin, Thor, and Freya. Even after
the lapse of 10 centuries the name
of Odin still lingers amongst the
people, though now only as a demon,
and as such used by the Swedes in
stead of the devil. Thus, "go to
Odin" is in common use ; in some
districts the peasants still leave a
bundle of hay for Odin's horses.
Oeyer's Sweden, p. 48.
The tower of the church is con
sidered the most ancient building in
Scandinavia, and is said to have
formed part d"f the heathen temple
which stood upon this spot. A statue
of Thor is still preserved here.
Mr. Laing conjecturesthat the three
Sweden.
large and remarkable tumuli near the

church are natural deposits, but
shaped by art into their present
form. The tradition respecting them
is, that the first from the church
contains the ashes of Odin ; the 2nd,
those of his son, Thor ; and the 3rd,
those of Odin's daughter, Freya. It
is said, that Gustavus Wasa, after the
Reformation, addressed a multitude
of the people from Odin's tomb, ex
horting them to embrace the Protestant
faith. They replied by threats and
murmurs, and he only overcame their
opposition by casting off his robes of
state, declaring that they might choose
Odin for their king, for that he would
be so no longer, and pointing out the
folly of their superstitions.
A few years ago the late king, Bernadotte, visited this interesting spot.
As he ascended one of the tumuli, he
was suddenly surrounded by a large
body of students, from Upsala, who
presented him with an ancient drink
ing-horn, filled with mead. The king
drank to the memory of Odin and the
ancient heroes of Sweden ; and, in
return, sent the students a silver
drinking- cup, which is preserved in
the library of the university.
The Mora Stone (Morastena) is
about 1 ,m. from the city of Upsala.
It is celebrated in Swedish history
as being the spot where the kings
were formerly elected, and received
the homage of their subjects. It
has been stated that Gustavus Wasa
first harangued the Dalecarlians from
the Mora Stone in 1520. This is an
error. The event took place in the
parish of Mora, at the head of the
Siljan Lake, much further N.See
Oeyer's Sweden, p. 133.
The Mora Stone is, in fact, composed
of 11 of various sizes, and bearing the
names and dates of the kings elected
here. In 1780 Gustavus III. caused
a house to be built over this interest
ing national monument. Upon the
ceiling are inscribed the various elec
tions of kings made at the Mora
Sweden.
route 62.the danemoea mines.
Stone by the voice of the people ;

they are in all 8, from Sten Kii, 1060,
to Christian I., in 1457, besides Sten
Sture, who, in 1512, was here chosen
Administrator of the Kingdom.
The Danemora Iron Mines. Dis
tance from Upsala, 5 Swed. m., about
35 Eng., by the following stages :
Husby, 1|.
Andersby, 2.
Osterby, 1J.
This road lies across the great plain
of Upsala to the N. E. Fine views of
the city are obtained, the cathedral
and other large buildings standing
out in bold relief against the sky.
Soon after passing the first stage the
road is carried along the E. side of
the Danemora Lake for some distance,
and the scenery becomes more pic
turesque as Osterby is approached,
and in the neighbourhood of which
are the principal mines.
A silver mine was originally worked
here, but that soon became exhausted,
and the iron mines have been in con
stant work since the 15th century.
The metal produced from them is
esteemed the best in Europe, and is
extensively used in England for the
manufacture of steel In fact, the
whole produce of these mines is said
to have been in the hands of an Eng
lish house for many years.
There are mines also near Soierby
in this district, besides the larger ones
near Osterby, and those who care
about works of this description will
be amply repaid for the fatigue and
trouble of exploring them. The en
trance to the chief mine near Sbderby
is by a large excavation 200 yards in
length and of considerable width ; and
at different points on the edge of this
chasm small platforms are erected
which project over it, and upon these
the cranes are fixed, by means of which
the buckets containing the miners
and the ore are raised and lowered.
The ropes used are of iron wire, and
the machinery is worked by horses.
The depth of the chasm is about 500
341
feet, and there are two modes of

descending, either in a bucket, or by
a succession of 19 ladders. Although
perilous in appearance, there is little
if any danger, as accidents by either
descent are almost unknown. Huge
masses of ice fill up many of the
lower depths, which the sun's rays
never reach. From the bottom seve
ral galleries are formed, which lead
to the excavations now in work. The
ore is obtained by blasting, and the
continual explosions am} smoke of
the powder add to the infernal cha
racter of the scene.
The Forges of Osterby should also
be visited. They are about 1 Eng. m.
from Danemora, and amidst highlypicturesque scenery. Here the ore is
smelted by charcoal, and prepared foi
exportation Laws exist which pre
clude the proprietors of mines from
raising more than a fixed quantity of
ore annually under very heavy penal
ties, and the owners of forests are in
like manner limited in the amount of
timber they may cut. At the same
time the export of unsmelted ore is
utterly prohibited. These antiquated
restrictions are so loudly complained
of in the country by all but the inte
rested few, and they are so highly
injurious to the interests of the people,
and particularly in the mining dis
tricts of Sweden, that it is to be
hoped they will soon be abolished.
At I&fsta, a short distance from
Danemora, is the largest and best
iron foundry in Sweden. It is the
property of the Count de Gfeer.
From Osterby travellers can pro
ceed to Gfefle by Hakanbo, 1| ;
Skarplinge, If; Westana, where Route
64 is joined. For stations from Gene
to Falun see below in this route.
Route to Falun continued from
Upsala.
A carriage may be hired in Upsala,
and a Forbud should be sent off in
time to order the horses.
342
ROUTE 63. UPSALA TO FALUN.
Distance, Upsala to Falun, 17iSwed.

in., or 118 Eng. The scenery during
the first 4 stages is not very pictu
resque. Numerous farms are passed
and streams crossed. The stages are
Kslfva, 2J.
OUby, If.
Harfsta, \\.
* Sala, 2. This small town is cele
brated for its silver mines, which have
furnished specimens to most cabinets
of minerals. They are said not to pay
their expenses, but are kept up by the
Government as part of its mining
establishment. The population of
Sala is about 3000.
It is calculated that there are at
least 100 different mines and work
ings in this neighbourhood ; the
greatest depth of any of them is
about 150 fathoms. The largest of
the mines will amply repay the toil of
visiting them. There are likewise
several mineral springs in the vicinity
of Sail. Also, Wasby, a royal domain,
which was a favourite residence of the
two greatest Swedish kings, Gustavus
I. and II. The grove, where the latter
is said to have first declared his love
to Ebba Brahe, is still carefully pre
served. It is beautiful to see how
everything connected with the me
mory of Gustavus Adolphus is en
shrined in the heart of every true
Swede.
The beauty of the scenery on this
road increases as it proceeds N. Wes
terns is considered to be better farmed
than any other district in Sweden,
and many beautiful examples of cul
tivation may be seen upon that portion
of it through which this route passes.
The houses of the farmers and pea
sants also display great neatness and
comfort.
The Dal River is crossed by a raft
bridge, a little above the point where
it spreads itself into a lake of most
irregular form, with numerous and
richly-wooded highlands. The length
of this picturesque lake, to its junc
tion with the sea, is about 55 Eng.
Sweden.
m. Our route now follows the left

bank of the Dal, and is again crossed
by a raft bridge at Gradii, near
where it issues from the Hafran Lake,
which is then in sight upon the E.
all the way to the small town of Hedemora. The stages from Sala are
Bolandet, 1J.
Brunnback, 2|.
* Grids, If. Good quarters.
* Hedemora, \. An unimportant
town, of about 1000 inhabitants. It
is uninteresting, apart from the
beauty of the scenery around it. The
Inn here is decent, and the food tole
rable. For road to Leksand, on the
way to Elfdal, see page 345.
The country from hence to Falun is
a chain of small valleys, and the bot
tom of them is generally filled with a
lake. These valleys are only divided
from each other by gentle elevations.
The poverty of the houses and barren
ness of the soil increase in proportion
as the sceneiy becomes wilder and more
picturesque.
In going from Hedemora, the Dal
is again crossed at Uppbo ; and at the
next station, Strand, the *Lake of
Runn is arrived at, and round the
bank of which the road continues
all the way to Falun, which is at the
head of a small branch of the lake,
on its N. W. corner. The stages from
Hedemora are
Uppbo, 14.
Strand, 1^.
Falun, 2. The Inn here is good,
and the charges moderate. This may
be considered the capitalof Daletgirlia ;
it contains about 4500 inhabitants,
and is the residence of the chief
officer of the province, as well as of a
number of Government officials con
nected with the mines.
Dalecarlia, or the Dales, chiefly
consist of the two great river basins
and numerous side branches of the
Wasterdal and Osterdal (or W. and
E. Dal) Rivers, which unite a few
miles W. of Falun, and there form
the Dal. The population of these
Sweden.
ROUTE 62.DALECARLlA.
valleys is about 140,000, and they

retain more of their ancient simplicity
of manners, dress, and mode of liv
ing than the natives of any other
part of Sweden. This arises from
their isolated position, as well as from
the fact of their thinking themselves
a superior race to their more lowland
neighbours in the S. It is from this
district that the industrious peasants
migrate in considerable numbers to
Stockholm during the summer months.
Their ingenuity is equal to their in
dustry, for they are extensive manu
facturers of basket-work, tools,
clocks, watches, &c. In these pur
suits they are, however, much crip
pled by the trade monopolies which
still exist in Sweden, and press most
injuriously upon the general interests
of the country.
Falun is essentially a mining town,
and the paucity of vegetation around
it affords a striking proof of the in
fluence of the fumes arising from the
quantities of copper ore smelted here.
These fumes, however, do not appear
to be injurious to human life ; on the
contrary, it is a remarkable fact that
during the cholera and other serious
epidemics with which the country has
been visited, the inhabitants of Falun
have always escaped. The same ob
servations apply to Swansea, in Wales,
where copper ore is smelted to such
a vast extent, and suggests the hope
that some effectual remedy may be
devised to check the spread of cholera
for the future.
This place is much visited by mine
ralogists and men of science, on ac
count of its mines, as well as for the
admirable machinery and works for
raising and smelting the ore.
The great copper mines are situated
on the W. side of the town ; they are
the oldest and most celebrated in
Europe, having an historical existence
of upwards of 600 years ; but it is
certain that they are much older,
probably many centuries. The first
public record, however, is in the
343
time of Birger Jarl, when they appear

to have been worked by the Lubeckers. In 1388 the powerful Bo
Grip Johnson, marshal of the king
dom, held half of them as a fief under
Queen Margaret.
For a number of years the mines
produced upwards of 3000 tons of
copper annually, but since 1650 the
produce has gradually fallen off.
In 1690 it was 1900 tons, in 1716,
1230 tons, and during the present cen
tury the production has not exceeded
400 tons per annum.
In the year 1750 a regular and
systematic mode of working was in
troduced ; prior to that period the
robbing system had been pursued, and
irregular excavations made in pursuit
of the ore.
The principal shafts areKing Fre
derick's, 200 fathoms deep ; King
Adolphus Frederick's shaft, 160 fa
thoms ; and Kreutz's shaft, 120 fa
thoms.
The external opening or excavation
is not above 300 feet in depth, but it
is of immense extent, being at least
1000 feet in length, and nearly that
in breadth, resembling, in some de
gree, the form and shape of an in
verted cone. About a century back,
in consequence of the injudicious mode
of the workings that had been carried
on, a run took place, and a large
quantity of the surface crust fell in,
which has left the present extensive
chasm or crater, from which numerous
galleries or levels branch off to the
workings in the interior. The de
scent for the first 50 or 60 fathoms is
easy enough, as there are regular
steps constructed to that depth,
which lead into some very extensive
and magnificent excavations ; among
others, into a large chamber in which
a grand dinner was given to Carl
Johan, the queen, and the crownprince (the present sovereign) ; the
mines were brilliantly illuminated on
the occasion. A glass case, now at
tached to the wall, inclosing their
344
ROUTE 02. FALUN TO ELFDAL.
autographs, commemorates the event

of their visit here.
Connected with the mines are a
mining-school, an extensive technical
library, a mineral and geological mu
seum, and a model room, which are
well worthy of a visit.
Gustavus Wasa worked in these
mines for a short time, when a fugi
tive, and pursued by the Danes.
After visiting the subterraneous
wonders of the copper mines, a ramble
amongst the peasantry in the neigh
bouring villages should not be neg
lected ; but those further N.W. are
still more interesting.
For travellers desirous of proceed
ing from hence to Trondhjem or Torma, by joining the high road to those
places (Routes 01 and 65), the follow
ing
Route to Gefte
may be useful. The distance from
Falun to Gene is lOg S. m., or 73
E. Soon after quitting Falun, on the
N.E. the scenery increases inwildness
and beauty, the hills become higher,
and some charming wood and lake
scenery is passed before reaching
Bargg&rdtt, 2f, at the end of the
Svartsjon Lake. This is quite histo
rical ground, for it was in the forests
around this lake that Gustavus Wasa
was concealed when pursued by the
spies of Christian II. in 1520. At
Jsla, about m. distant on the E.
side of the lake, the barn still exists
in which he threshed corn for Iven
Elfssen, the peasant who concealed
him from his pursuers ; it is still pos
sessed by his descendants. This
province may truly be termed the
cradle of Swedish civil and religious
liberty : for here it was that Gustavus
Wasa finally matured, arranged, and
commenced those plans which even
when a boy at college at Upsala he
openly declared ; for it is upon record
that he was punished by his Danish
preceptor for having said that he
would go to Dalecarlia, assemble the
Sweden.
inhabitants, and smash the Danes.

After many wanderings, disguises, and
hair-breadth escapes from treachery
and his Danish pursuers, Gustavus
Wasa harangued a multitude of Dalecarlians in the parish of Mora, at the
head of the Siljan Lake (see below),
who had assembled there for the cele
bration of the Christmas festivities
in ] 520, and so wrought upon them
by his eloquent exposition of the
wrongs they hadssustained from Den
mark, that he induced about 200 to
join him in raising the national
standard, and striking the first blow
for freedom. The spot where he ad
dressed the people, and the cave
where he was concealed, in the same
parish, are still pointed out by the
descendants of the brave peasants
who shared his dangers. Geyer'i
Sweden, pp. 129 and 133.
From Uorggardet the road to Gefle is
truly Swedish in character ; hill and
dale, woods, lakes, and rivers, alter
nating in the most pleasing manner.
The following are the stages :
Lumsheden, 2J.
Sandbacha, 2jf, situated upon the
N. bank of the large lake, Storsjon.
Hbgho, 1J.
Oh,, If.
t * Gefle, J. See Route 64.
Route from Falun to Elfdal.
Dist. 16 S. m., or 107 E. This
route to the Royal Porphyry Manu
factory leads through some of the
most picturesque scenery of Dale-
carlia, and its kind and hospitable
inhabitants may be seen to greater
advantage than in any other part of
the district.
Leaving Falun on the W. , the three
first stages are through a hilly, wellwooded country, with a number of
small lakes and farms. These stages
are :
Smedsbo, 1J.
Hahjbo, If.
Soon after leaving this station the
E. branch of the Dal River is crossed,
Sweden.
ROUTE 62. ROYAL PORPHYRY WORKS.
345
a little S. of the Jusjon Lake, along upon this stage. It is on the bank of
the W. bank of which the road con the lake, on the S. of the road, and
tinues through charming scenery, and is dear to every true Swede as being
crosses the Dal again on entering
the spot where Gustavas Wasa first
* Leksand, 14. There is a com addressed the Dalecarlians, urging
fortable little Inn here. This place them to cast off the Danish yoke.
is situated at the foot of the great Geyer's Sweden, p. 133.
Vilcarby, 1\.
Siljan Lake, at the point where the
Gars&s, \\,
Dal flows from it into the Jusjon
* Mora Noret, lj. Good station.
Lake. The parish church here is a
Near here the E. Dal is again crossed
great place of resort on Sundays and
festivals for the Dalecarlians from the after it has been joined by the waters
flowing
from the Orsayjon Lake, which
surrounding villages upon the lake,
and it is a most interesting scene to is seen upon the N., and the road
watch their arrival and departure, then enters the valley of the E. Dal.
all dressed in their holiday costume. Here Gustavus Wasa again harangued
The boats they use are generally and persuaded some of the Dalecar
rowed by 8 men and 8 women each, lians to join him against the Danes,
and those who wish to see them arrive as before stated. Also at a quarter of
should be at the landing-place on the an hour's distance, near the lake, is
lake (about 5 minutes' walk from the cellar of Utmedland, where Gus
Leksand)- at 7 a. m. punctually. The tavus was concealed. The road con
tinues on the left shore of the lake
church service begins about 8.30.
[There is a road from Leksand to all the way to Elfdal by the following
Hedemora, crossing the Oster Dal Elv, stages :
about 4 Eng. m. from Leksand, and
Garberg, 2 J.
continuing along the right bank of
Elfdal, If. The porphyry works
the river to
are about 1 Eng. m. N. of this sta
KonUilmolta, 2^, close to the tion, when the Royal Manufactory
junction of the East and West Dal may be visited, and specimens of the
Rivers. This is a very beautiful numerous varieties of porphyry found
spot, and seldom visited by travellers. in this neighbourhood may be pur
Hence the road crosses the E. Dal chased. Many of them are of the
River again, and continues in a S. E. most beautiful description, and bear
direction along the banks of the W. the finest polish. The scenery around
Dal River, a noble stream, to
here is also very picturesque, and the
Gangbro, 1J. A tolerable station, numerous falls and cararacts formed
and would no doubt be good head by the Dal add much to the beauty of
quarters for a fisherman, but he the scenery. To the N. and E. of
must provide his own provisions.
Elfdal traces of human industry be
* Bnsk&ka, 14. Good station.
come gradually less frequent ; moun
Safer, 2.
tain, ravine, cataract, and pine-forest
Hedemora, 14. See above.]
succeed each other in endless succes
From Leksand to Mora Noret, at the sion. The shooting in these forests
head of the Siljan, the road is carried is highly spoken of, the bear and elk
along the E. and N. sides of it, the being at times met with in them, be
first part of the way being through a sides the capercailie and hazel-hen.
hilly country commanding beautiful The richly-wooded and wild range of
views of the lake in some places. The country which lies to the S.W. of
stages are
Elfdal, between the Klar and W. Dal
Utby, 11.
Rivers, isvery thinly inhabited ; "and
The church of Rattmck is passed here wild beasts, together with most
< 3
346
route 63. Stockholm to GOTTENBUHG.
kinds of game, are probably as nu

merous as in any other part of Sweden.*' Lloyd's Field Sports in theN.
of Europe, v. i. p. 106. Mr. Lloyd
also speaks highly of the fishing in
the W. Dal, and of its numerous
waterfalls and cataracts. "The in
habitants in the neighbourhood of the
W. Dal are a more quick and lively
race than those of the E. Dal, so
much so that they seem to be of
different origin."Le Bas' Sweden,
p. 481.
Those who wish to see more of
the Dalecarlians, and the wildest
and most magnificent scenery their
country affords, should proceed two
stages up the W. Dal, from Eldfal to
Sarna, and then cross the country to
the W. Dal, and keeping down the
noble valley, through which that
river runs, to its junction with the
E. Dal, and so back to Falun, thus
make the complete tour of Dalecarlia.
Routes to Norway.
Travellers who are unencumbered
with a carriage, and desire to proceed
in the most direct manner to Trondhjem in Norway, may do so by the
mountain paths up the valley of the
W. Dal, from Elfdal to Asen, If,
thence to Sarna, and Idre Tull, from
there crossingthe hills to Drevsbehytte,
at the foot of the Foemund Lake ; up
that lake to its head near Norvig, and,
there take another path, which leads
through the mountains to Roraas, in
Route 31. The distance from Elfdal to
Roraas this way is about 25 S. m. , or
170 E., and no one should attempt
it who is not able to bear a consider
able amount of fatigue and privation.
From Elfdal to Routes 64 and 65.
The carriage road from Elfdal to
Trondhjem and Tornea strikes off to
the E. from the Garberg station S. of
Elfdal, and passes through a moun
tainous and thickly-wooded country,
chiefly along the banks of extensive
Sweden.
lakes, till it enters Routes 64 and 65

at the Mo Myskie station. The dis
tance from Elfdal to the latter is 21
S. m., or 142 E., by the following
stages
Garberr/, If.
Orsa,' 2j.
iskalungebyn, lj.
Arfuet, If.
Furudals Bruk, 1.
BSle, 2.
Einstuga, If.
Edsby, 1}.
Alfta, If.
Ileden, If.
Glbxbo, if.
* Mo Myskie, If, where the sta
tion-house is said to be very good.
ROUTE 63.
STOCKHOLM TO OOTTENBUKG BT THE
GOTA CANAL.
Distance about 370 Eng. m. From
Stockholm there are 3 routes to Gottenburg. Routes 68 and 70 by land,
and this by water.
About 12 steamers are now plying
on the Gottenburg Canal between
Stockholm and Gottenburg, so that
one leaves either terminus nearly
every day in the week. Their hours
of departure in the summer are gene
rally in the middle of the night, or
very early in the morning. All par
ticulars about them may be learnt at
the office near the Riddarholm Quay.
Some of the boats go round by
Carlstad, at the head of the Wenern
Lake, which makes the voyage a day
longer and adds to the expense. But
as there is nothing of sufficient interest
to induce tourists to make the voyage
by Carlstad, the following particulars
are confined to the direct route, the
average passage by which is now from
2 to 3 days in the height of summer,
when the nights are light. Fare,
Chief Cabin (exclusive of food),
22 J ds. banco. All the boats call at
Sbderkbping, Motala, and all the
other places en route.
Sweden.
BOUTE 63. BY THE GOTA CANAL.
As- the steamers are necessarily

small, to enable then! to pass the
locks, the berths are few, and those
required should, therefore, be en
gaged as soon as possible. The boats
lie at the Riddarholm Quay upon the
Malar Lake. They have been much
improved both in speed and ar
rangements. Beneath the long poop
are 10 cabins, 5 on each side the
vessel, and opening into a passage be
tween them, which runs fore and aft.
Each cabin is completely separate
from the others, has one berth on
either side it, which in the daytime
are converted into sofas, a small
table, and a sliding window in the
sides of the ship. These berths are
very comfortable. Beds are also made
up in the saloon, which is in the fore
part of the vessel ; a wretched dormi
tory. The steward's bill for 3 meals
averages about 2 d. b. a day. The
two Fliias, women who wait upon
the passengers, expect 3 d. r. between
them for the voyage ; and it is also
usual to give some trifle amongst the
crew. The cuisine on board is much
improved, and everything is done to
promote the comfort of the passen
gers which cleanliness and attention
can supply. It is quite unnecessary
to take provisions, as was formerly
recommended. The captains speak
English, and are most attentive and
obliging. Pasnports are retained by
them during the voyage.
Except when prevented by dark
ness or fog, these steamers proceed
day and night upon their voyage,
stopping only at the various towns and
places on their way, to land and take
in goods and passengers, and also to
obtain fresh supplies of wood. In
many parts the navigation is so in
tricate and difficult that the greatest
caution is requisite, and the vessels
in such places proceed very slowly.
There are also 74 locks to be passed,
which occasion a great delay in the
voyage, particularly in the latter
portion of it, from the number of
847
vessels waiting to pass. These delays,

however, enable the passengers to
take delightful walks and explore the
lovely scenery about some of the locks.
The Gota Canal is different in cha
racter from any other work of the
like description. There are 7 por
tions of canal which serve to unite
the various lakes in the S. of Sweden,
and thus forming a continuous water
way across the country, affording an
outlet to the Baltic and the North
Sea for its various productions, and
escaping the expense and delay of
passing the Sound. Of the entire
distance of 370 E. m. between Stock
holm and Gottenburg, only about
50 are canal, and the same distance
along the coast of the Baltic ;. the re
maining 270 being through lakes,
bays, and rivers, the scenery in many
parts being of the most pleasing cha
racter. The canal has 10 feet of
water : it is 48 feet wide at the
bottom, and 90 on the surface.
Plans of connecting the Baltic with
the open sea near Gottenburg by ca
nal were devised many years before
they were carried out. In 1516,
Bishop Brask proposed to connect
Lake Wettern with the Baltic, and
Gustav I. thought seriously of con
necting the Wenern and Wettern.
Charles IX., however, was the first
to commence the undertaking : he
opened a part oalled "Carls Graf,"
to avoid the upper falls on the Gota
River. In the reign of Gustavus
Adolphus, the locks at Lilla Edet
were made, and a commencement was
made of the "Hjelmare Canal," but
it was not completed till 1701. The
famous Swedenborg drew Charles
XII. 's attention to the undertaking
in 1716. But on that king's death
3 years afterwards the works again
languished, and it was not till 1742
that they were renewed, and con
tinued slowly under the direction of
Wiman, the engineer of the Sala
silver minesf At a later period sur
veys of a line between the Wenei n
3iS
route 63. Stockholm to OOTTENBUEG.
and the Baltic were taken under the

direction of Daniel Tliunberg, and in
1793 a company was formed for
making the Trollhattan Canal, after
a plan of the engineer, Eric Nordevall. This was opened in 1800, and
improved and widened, under the di
rection of Colonel N. Eriksson, to si
milar dimensions with the rest of the
Gota Canal between 1836 and 1844.
At the .beginning of the present
century the Baron Balizar von Pla
ten was placed at the head of the
undertaking, and he may be said to
be the founder of the Gota Canal as
it now exists. In 1808 he summoned
to his aid the famous English
engineer Thomas Telford, and in 20
days the whole line was marked out,
over nearly the same line, as that con
templated by Daniel Thunberg. The
work was prosecuted all through the
disastrous period of 1809-10, .when
Finland was taken from Sweden, and
in spite of the opposition of many,
who stated that the canal would lie
the grave which would swallow up all
Sweden's resources. In 1822, Pla
ten had the satisfaction of seeing the
West Gota Canal opened for traffic.
And in 1832, the two Swedish seas
were at length connected, but Platen
did not live to see the completion of
the entire work. He died in 1829.
The works were chiefly carried on by
the army ; the whole cost of the
canal, as finally carried out, amounted
to 9,142,231 r. d. b.
The voyage commences upon
The Malar Lake.
This lovely water is about 75 Eng.
m. in length. Its width varies very
much, and the arms are numerous,
intersecting the adjoining country in
all directions. Of islands of all sizes
there are no less than 1400, and
numbers of them exquisitely beauti
ful. Months might be passed in ex
ploring the Miliar and the abundant
remains of primeval forest, with
which its banks and islands are co
Sweden.
vered. Game is said to be abundant,

and the fishiflg in the lake and its
tributaries is well spoken of.
The view of Stockholm from the
Malar, though fine, is not to be comj>ared to that which 4s obtained on ap
proaching it from the Baltic. The
beauties of the Malar may be said to
commence from Stockholm. Villas
are frequent upon its banks and is
lands. At first the boats and barges
are very numerous, but these are soon
left behind as the steamer enters
amongst the islands where eternal
silence appears to reign, and at times
no vestige of a human being or habi
tation is to be seen, until, upon turn
ing the point of some sequestered
nook, a villa or little farm, nestled
amongst the trees, and surrounded by
patches of fine pasture, prove that
the solitude is not so great as it ap
pears to be.
On a mass of rock projecting into
the lake, an ancient iron hat may be
seen as the steamer passes it. Tra
dition tells that it marks the spot
where in olden times a king of Swe
den was beset, and singly faced his
pursuers. At length overwhelmed by
numbers, and this same hat torn from
him in the struggle, by a last effort
he smote his foremost assailant to
the earth, plunged into the lake, and
escaped.
After continuing about 20 Eng. m.
down the lake apromontory is rounded,
and the most southerly branch is en
tered which terminates at the small
town of S&Jerteljc, which is cele
brated for its manufacture of bis
cuits. Mr. Laing conjectures that it
was in this branch of the Malar that .
St. Olaf, when a Viking, was penned
up, on one of his piratical expedi
tions in the 11th century, by the
united fleets of the Swedes and Danes.
They expected to starve him out, or
to force him to engage with his few
ships to a disadvantage. But he gave
them the slip by cutting a canal from
the lake to the Baltic through which
Sweden.
ROUTE C8. BY THE GOTA CANAL.
he forced his vessels, leaving the

enemy blockading the entrance of the
branch of the lake. Laing's Tout in
Sweden^ p. 298.
It is probable that the existing
canal, which is but short, is upon- the
site of that cut by St. Olaf. It was
a work of no great difficulty, as the
levels of the Malar and Baltic are
nearly the same, and the soil is chiefly
composed of sand and boulders. Some
portions of the high banks of this
canal are very picturesque. Observe
the swing-bridge at Sodertelje.
In cutting this canal the remains
of an ancient habitation were found
at a depth of 60 feet, the level of
the sea. Sir C. Lyell, in a paper ' ' On
the Movements of the Baltic Shores, "
in the Philosophical Transactions,
states, "that the superincumbent
matter was composed of a marine
formation. The stratification of the
mass over the house was very decided,
but, for the most part, of that wavy
and irregular kind which would re
sult from a meeting of currents. It
appears that this building must have
been submerged beneath the waters
of the Baltic to the depth of 84 feet ;
and before it was raised again to its
presentposition, ithad become covered
with strata more than 60 feet thick."
On passing the single lock and
clearing the canal, the Baltic is en
tered, which here forms a deep bay
of about 25 E. m. Upon clearing it
the vessel takes a S.W. course for
about 45 E. m. along the coast,
through a countless maze of low is
lands, more or less covered with
stunted fir, and then enters another
bay, which takes a W. course. The
channel, through the islands, and up
this bay, where it becomes exceed
ingly intricate and difficult in places,
is marked by piles of rock, painted
white and placed upon the projecting
points ; also by branches of trees
Btuck in the bottom. A few ruins
are passed, but none of a very pic
turesque character, except those of
349
Stegeborg Castle, about midway up

the bay on its N. side. It was for
merly a very strong place, and the
scene of many a conflict famed in
Swedish history. At the head of
this bay is the pretty hamlet of Mem,
where the first locks are passed. On
one of the stones are inscribed the
words, ' ' Om Herren icke bygger
huset, sa arbeta de faf&ngt, som derpa bygga."Ps. cxxvii. 1. (Except
the Lord build the house, their labour
is but lost that build it. ) Here
The Gota Canal
commences and passes near the small
town of Sodekkopino on the left.
The houses, like most others of the
same class in Sweden, are of wood,
coloured with dark red ochre. There
is a mineral spring here, which ren
ders it a place of great resort for the
good people of Stockholm during sum
mer. This town is one of the most
ancient in this part of Sweden, and
in the time of Gustavus Wasa was
regarded as one of the chief maritime
places. The hill near here called Ramundershall, abounds in springs. A
giant pirate, named Ramunder, had
his stronghold there in olden time.
The Church of Tingsta, a short dis
tance N. of Soderkoping, is one of
the most ancient in the country. In
the grounds of the chateau of Klinga,
seen upon the N. of the canal, there
exists what is said to be a pagan altar.
It is erected upon a rock, and consists
of a large stone resting on 4 smaller
ones. All the Steamers call at Soder
koping ; a few miles beyond which a
small lake is entered which is con
nected by another portion of the
canal with the beautifid and exten
sive Roxen Lake. The scenery upon
the latter portion of the canal is at
times very lovely. Heaps of wood
are piled up in places for the use of
the steamers, which usually consume
about 180 rix dollars' worth during
the whole voyage. The canal dues
cost about 140 d. more. At the en
350
BOCTE 63.STOCKHOLM TO GOTTENBURG.
trance to the Roxen upon the N. is

the estate of Norsholra. It is in
teresting, as having belonged to the
celebrated Bishop Ham Jirank, who
is said to have originated the design
of constructing the (iota Canal.
The Roxen Lake
is 109 feet above the sea-level. It is
2^ miles long by 1 broad. It receives
three large feeders, the Motala, Svart&n, and Siangan, but has only one
river running out of it.
The steamer runs nearly the whole
length of the Roxen, passing the town
of Linkopinu, which is seen in the
distance upon the S. Upon the
N.W. of the lake is the tine' man
sion which formerly belonged to the
Counts Douglas, who had a large
estate there. This branch of the
celebrated Scotch family emigrated to
Sweden during Cromwell's time, and
hold a most distinguished place in
the annals of their adopted country,
a place which they have earned by
their services in the field, as well as
in the cabinet. The banks of this fine
lake are wooded to the water's edge.
On the W. side of the Roxen a
series of 11 locks is passed on enter
ing the (Jst Gsta Canal, which is
here carried up the face of a hill
70 feet above the level of the Roxen,
and terminates in the Wettern Lake.
The first 7 locks open into each other
from the margin of the lake ; the
remaining 4 are at short distances
apart. Observe the views, as well
from the shores of the lake as from
the high ground at the 7th lock ;
they are amongst the loveliest in the
S. of Sweden, the noble masses of
wood and water extending as far as
the eye can range. The oak becomes
most abundant and very fine here.
The steamer always takes about 1
hour to pass the locks, which gives
ample time for visiting the Con
ventual Church, called Vretaklostcr.
It is highly interesting, and not more
than 10 minutes' walk from the locks
Sweden *
on the S. of them. The church is in

the CJothic style, and was founded in
1128, by Inge II., one of the three
kings of Sweden who are buried in it.
It is in the form of the Latin cross,
and the chapels which have been con
structed at the sides, as places of
sepulture, render the exterior more
picturesque. The two first chapels
from the altar, on the S. side, contain
the tombs of the kings a third on
the same side is filled with those of
the Douglas family, and rich em
blazonments of their arms, amongst
which the "bloody heart" is con
spicuous. In one corner of the
chapel are a number of Austrian
standards taken by "the Douglas"
during the Thirty Years' War. On
the north side is the vestry, which
contains the tombs of several abbesses
and other distinguished members of
the establishment in former days.
Adjoining the vestry is the Con
ventual Prison or Cell, now forming
an entrance to the church. Observe
the very antique font, the carved
pulpit, and the tombs in the church
yard. The person who keeps the
keys is generally to be found at the
church upon the arrival of the boat,
for whioh he looks out.
This portion of the canal terminates
in the small lake of JBuren, which is
243 feet above the sea-level.
About midway on a promontory on
the S. side of this lake, is the fine
chateau of Ulfasa, belonging to the
Stjerneld family ; and most pic
turesquely situated. There is a
library here of upwards of 5000
volumes, and the gardens and grounds
have been laid out at great expense.
This place is celebrated as being the
cradle of the maternal branch of the
Brahe family. The neighbouring
church of Egbyborna is interesting.
A short cut unites the Boren with
the most eastern branch of the Wettern Lake. Upon the N. of the canal is
* Motala, where all the steamers
call. This place is fast rising into
Sweden.
ROUTE 63. BY THE OOTA CANAL.
importance, in consequence of the

large iron foundries and manufac
tories established here. They were
established originally for the manu
facture of the iron implements, &c,
required in making the canal, under
the management of an Englishman
of the name of Fraser. The boat
usually stops long enough to enable
the passengers to see the place, but
great care should be taken upon
every occasion of leaving the vessel,
to ascertain from the captain himself
the exact time of departure, as in
stances have occurred of passengers
being left behind. The largest iron
foundries and manufactories in Swe
den are at Motala. Iron steamers,
steam-engines, rolling mills, &c, are
made here. Great efforts are made
by the Government to improve the
various native manufactures, for
which object about 30,000 d. banco
are annually expended. Intelligent
young men have been sent to England
and Germany to learn the most im
proved methods of manufacturing
cutlery, with a view of improving
that trade in Sweden. At present
almost all the best cutlery used there
is of British manufacture ; which is
twice as good, and 30 per cent,
cheaper than the Swedish. The best
native cutlery is produced at Eskilstuna, a small town on the S. of the
Malar Lake. The ruins of the forti
fications at Motala are the remains of
the works erected in 1567 to resist
the passage of the Danes. And upon
the S. bank of the canal near here
is buried Admiral Von Platen
"Vid de boljor, sjelf han diktat,
Vid den strand, hail sjelf liar bjggt."
(See p. 348.)
The country around Motala is
beautiful ; a short time might be
delightfully passed here in exploring
it, particularly along the E. shore of
the Wettern. The small Inn is well
spoken of, and there is good shooting
and fishing to be had. The trout in
the Wettern attain a very great size.
351
At the celebrated old town of Wadstena, about 10 Eng. m. S. of Motala,

there is a convent and church of high
antiquity ; and also a moated castle,
built in 1545, which may be seen in
the distance on crossing
The Wettern Lake,
which is soon entered after leaving
Motala, and is about 90 Eng. m.
from N. to S.; by an average width
of 15. It is 295 feet above the sealevel, with an area of about 1 7 square
S. miles. It is surrounded by the
four provinces of Nerike, Ostergotland, Smaland, and Westergbtland.
It is of great depth ; near Wisingso
bottom is not found under 420 feet.
It receives nearly 90 tributaries,
but it has only one exit, the Motala
River. It has but few islands.
Wisingso' is the largest : 14 mile long
by \ broad. This lake is exceedingly
liable to sudden and very violent
squalls from the hills. The boats
usually manage to cross it at night,
and those who have been fortunate
enough to see it by moonlight will
not readily forget the grandeur and
solemnity of its scenery. The Wet
tern is crossed in a direction due W.
Shortly before quitting the lake
the steamer passes close by the
Fortress of Wanas, the largest and
strongest in Sweden. Built upon the
extremity of a rocky promontory in
the Wettern, its tremendous fire
sweeps the entrance towards the
Viken Lake, while its central situa
tion in the event of* war renders it of
the highest importance as a great
national depot and place of refuge.
The two chief towns upon the Wet
tern areAskersund at the N. ex
tremity, and Jonkoping at the S.
On quitting the Wettern the
steamer passes through a succession
of small lakes, until it enters the
long, narrow, and winding waters of
the Viken, whose bosom is studded
with richly-wooded islands. This
lake is 304 feet above the sea-level.
352
route 03.Stockholm to gottenburg.
Sweden.
The scenery is lovely from the Wet- being next to Ladoga and Onega : it
tern to the head of the Viken. The is 147 feet above the sea-level. Its
foliage of the oak, ash, and elm form is very irregular, but it is about
mingles with the darker luxuriance 100 Eng. m. long by 50 broad at the
of the pine and fir in the greatest widest part, with an area of about
abundance, and it may be truly said 52 square Swedish miles. Its greatest
that this portion of the voyage for a depth is 359 feet. The largest islands
distance of about 20 Eng. m. is un on it are Thorso, Bromo, Kallandsij.
surpassed for beauty and variety by The lake lies nearly due N.E. to
any other lake scenery in Europe of S.W., while peninsulas on the N.
the same description. The naviga and S. sides project so far into the
tion is exceedingly difficult and lake as, with their neighbouring
anxious through these small lakes. clusters of islands, to give the ap
Square buoys and poles mark the pearance of this vast water having
narrow winding channel, and aid in originally formed two lakes. ' The
threading the beautiful labyrinth. principal tributary of the Wenern is
Near the head of the Viken the the Klar, whose source is near
Rtiraas, in Norway, upwards of 250
steamer enters
The West Gb'a Canal, which con Eng. m. N. of Wenern. The only
nects the waters of the Viken with outlet for this great body of water is
those of the vast Wenern. It is that by Trollhattan. There are
about 25 Eng. m. in length, and, several towns upon the banks of the
next to the locks, &e. , at Trollhiittan, Wenern ; of these the chief are
"was the most difficult portion of the Carlstadt (see Route 67) and Chrisworks requisite for uniting this tinehamn, at the head, and Lidnoble chain of lakes. Here also koping and Wenersborg at the foot of
the summit level of the voyage is it. At either of these towns com
attained : 307 feet above the Baltic. fortable quarters may be obtained by
For several miles after quitting the those desirous of exploring the beau
Viken the canal has been blasted out ties of the Wenern in detail. The
of the solid granite, and its course is trout attain to upwards of 40 lbs.
so narrow, and the curves so bad and weight, and the general fishing and
frequent in many places, that the shooting of the Wenern and in its
navigation is very hazardous, and the neighbourhood is highly recommend
speed of the vessel becomes con ed. In winter, all these lakes are
sequently very slow. A Granite generally frozen, which renders the
Pillar on the S. bank marks the journey both easy and rapid by
highest level of the canal. Trees sledges, but the wolves are at times
become less abundant, but the lichens dangerous and troublesome on the
and mosses are beautiful, and heath larger waters.
On quitting the W. Gota Canal
and wild strawberries constantly
occur. The scenery is flat and un- and entering the Wenem, the channel
picturesque, but the cultivation pro is along the E. shore, through a great
portionately rich and extensive ; and number of islands and shallows,
numerous villages and farm-houses which render the navigation very
are seen. Several locks are passed, difficult. The town of Mariestad is
affording ample time and opportuni passed at the head of a small bay,
ties for delightful rambles on the and near it are the extensive and
banks of the canal as it descends to
picturesque ruins of the bishop's
castle. There are also the ruins of
The Wenern Late,
several other feudal residences, along
which is the third largest in Europe, the S. extremities of the lake. Be
Sweden.
EOUTE 63.BI THE GOTA CANAL.
yond Mariestad is seen the mountain

of Kinnehutte, 927 feet high, crowned
with pine forest, and studded with .
villages and several churches. Upon
Kallandso is seen the Lcclo Slott, or
Palace. It is now used as a prison.
The turrets command extensive views
of the lake and its islands. About a
mile from Lecko is the site of another
palace destroyed by the Norwegians
in the 13th century. A legend exists
of a queen of Sweden having been
murdered there by a servant, and the
peasants believe the spot where she
was drowned in the lake to be
haunted by her ghost. Upon clearing
a second maze of islands and entering
the lower portion of the lake, called
Dalbo Sjon, the steamer takes a
course S. W. for the end of it. Most
of the islands are bare and rocky,
and upon the whole the scenery upon
the Wenern is not so picturesque as
other portions of the voyage.
* Wenersborg. The steamer re
mains long enough here to enable the
passengers to see the town. It has
about 2000 inhabitants, and since
the great fire in 1836, is fast rising
into importance from its increasing
trade, chiefly in iron, deals, and
other produce of the rich districts
upon the borders of the Wenern.
The mountains of Halleberget and
Hunneberget, upon the bank of the
Wenern, E. of this town, are interest
ing from the peculiarity of their
formations as well as for their ex
tensive forests, numerous small lakes,
and the tombs and other antiquities
in their neighbourhood. The valley
between the mountains of Halleberget
and Hakleklint is grand. Near the
latter is a rock called Walchall, which
resembles a heart ; upon the summit
are two semi-circular seats, upon
which, in the times of paganism, it
is believed that victims were placed
prior to their sacrifice by being cast
into the abyss beneath. Hunneberget
derives its name from the Hunns,
who were defeated here. In this
853
mountain there is a mine of black

chalk, said to be equal to the best
Italian. This is a good place for
head-quarters while shooting and
fishing in the neighbourhood, both of
which are highly spoken of, and
particularly the latter, as numbers of
the great lake trout are caught in the
Gota River.
On leaving Wenersborg the lake of
Wasisbotten is entered, and then, by
the ' ' Carh Graf" a canal made by
Charles IX., to avoid the upper falls
of the Gota (see above), the Gota
River itself. The scenery is mostly
flat and uninteresting till arriving at
The Falls of Trolllmttan,
where there is a comfortable Inn,
close to the falls. Those who can
spare the time will do well to remain
there a few days thoroughly to explore
the beauties of this part of the river.
Mr. Lloyd, the well-known sportsman
and author of ' ' Field Sports in the
North of Europe," resides a short
distance up the stream.
There is a large village here and ex
tensive saw-mills close upon the finest
portion of the first fall, all which
detract from the wildness and pic
turesque effect of the scenery. The
falls are 7 in number, altogether 112
feet in height. The names are Guild
fall, ToppS, Stampestrom, 3 called
Helvetes, and Flottbergsiriim. Toppo
fall is the highest, 44 feet. But they
are in fact magnificent cataracts
rather than falls, and those who visit
them after seeing some of the grand
waterfalls of Norway, will perhaps
consider they have been somewhat
overrated. One of the great beauties
here is the vast body of water always
in the river. Upon the brink of the
first fall it is divided by a small
rocky island covered with firs, and
the view of the dark waving line oft
the water just there, ere it rushes
down over the rocks below, is one of
the finest points of sight. From the
platform at the back of the saw-mill,
854
route 03. Stockholm to GOTTENBURG-.
next the fall, is the best spot to see

it. Two fatal accidents which have
occurred here prove that it is certain
death to go down this fearful stream.
Tiie last instance was that of a man,
who in crossing the river in a boat
was carried over. Several persons
saw the accident, and as he reached
the brink he coolly stood up and
waved his hatin an instant after
he was dashed to pieces amidst the
rocks and whirlpools below.
Lower down the river, but nearly
on a level with the summit of the
falls, is a curious excavation in the
hard solid rock, nearly in the form of
a hemisphere, on the sides of which
are written, in large coarse characters,
the names of a great number of
Swedish monarchs and distinguished
persons who have come hither to
behold the wonders' of Trollhiittan.
It is at present high above the bed
of the Gota River, nor can one
readily understand how the water,
by whose agency alone such a gradu
ally curving surface could have been
produced, ever ran in this direction,
unless this point has formed at some
remote period a portion of the chan
nel of the cataract before it hollowed
out its present rocky bed.
Near this spot and from another
small island in the bed of the river
which is reached by a bridge, the
finest general views of the falls are
obtained. A toll of 8 sk. banco is
payable for a ticket to cross this
bridge. None of the falls are of
great height, and soon after passing
the second island the river forms a
succession of fine rapids for about
an Eng. mile, and then flows tran
quilly onwards. The banks of the
stream are very rocky and precipi
tous, and on the W. side covered
with trees wherever there is room
or their roots to cling.
The canal here is the most stupen
dous work - upon the whole voyage ;
including a small lake which has
been taken advantage of, its length is
Sweden.
about half a mile, most of which has

been blasted out of the solid rock.
The difference of level between the
highest part of the canal at Trollhattan and the point where it joins the
river below the falls, is about 120 E.
feet ; there are 9 locks to be passed,
which usually occupy upwards of two
hours, affording the passengers suffi
cient time to see the falls. Imme
diately adjoining the river there is a
double line of locks, those originally
constructed having been found too
small for the steamers, and increased
traffic on the line. Omit not to see the
lovely views from the cliffs near the
locks, and from whence the engineer
ing difficulties which have been over
come can be best appreciated. From
thence all the way up to the falls,
which may be heard thundering in
the distance, the ground inclosed
between the canal and river is highly
picturesque. There are several pretty
villas, saw-mills, &c, in the pine
wood which runs along the margin of
the canal, and the walks in this wood
lead to some beautiful spots on the
banks of the river, which there rushes
along its rocky bed 100 feet below.
After passing the locks at Trollhattan, the steamer again enters the
Grota River, which is thenceforth very
picturesque all the way to Oottenburg, although widely different in
character. For some miles below the
locks the banks remain rocky and
precipitous, with beautiful mosses,
lichens, heaths, and pine trees cling
ing about them.
t * Lilla Edet is a large village,
with several good houses and shops,
about 2 m. below Trollhattan, and
there is a comfortable Inn, close to
the fine fall which the river makes
here. Some years since 12 or 13 per
sons crossing the river above this
fall, from the negligence of the ferry
man, were swept into the torreut, and
every soul perished. The fishing is
usually better than up the stream,
where it is being constantly poached.
Sweden.
EOUTE 63.GOTTENBURG.
The country around is also very

lovely.
On passing the last locks below
Lilla Edet, the banks become less
wild, and the river soon flows tran
quilly through a rich plain, with low,
but very abrupt, hills at intervals.
The banks are covered with enormous
beds of rushes, which afford shelter
to quantities of wild fowl. The flap
per-shooting here is said to be excel
lent. The very - fine and extensive
ruins of the old castle of Boh us (see
Koute 77) are passed on the W., when
the river divides, and a large branch,
flowing past Bohus and the small town
of Kongelf, enters the sea by the
Elve Fjord. From where the river
separates to Gottenburg is 1^ S. mile;
the character of the scenery remains
the same as that about Bohus ; the
upper portion of Gottenburg is seen
a long distance before reaching it.
The steamer is laid alongside the
quay, and porters are in attendance,
whose charges are paid by tariff.
The captain sends the passengers'
passports to the police office.
Gottenburo (Swedish Goteborg).
Inns: Gotha Kellare, now in new
hands, and much improved. Prinds
Carl. The Prince Carl is the best
restaurant. The usual dinner hour
is about 2 ; after 4, most of the good
things enumerated in the carte are
exhausted. Excellent port wine and
Gottenburg porter may be obtained
here. The most comfortable plan is
to dine at the Prince Carl, and take
lodgings in a private house, which
are easily obtained by the day or
week ; 1 rix d. a day for each bed is
about the usual price.
The Post-office is near the New
Exchange. Passports must be rise"
here, and are obtained either at the
police office in the old Exchange, or
more usually at the governor's near
the quay. 24 sk. rix is payable for
the vise".
The Steam-boat Offices are upon the
canal, nearly opposite the New Ex
355
change. Passports must be deposited

on taking berths, or upon going on
board. Travellers landing here and
intending to proceed by the boats on
the Gota Canal to Stockholm should
lose not a minute in applying for
berths, as the good ones are few in
number, and, at times, in much re
quest. For times of starting, &c,
see p. 357 ; and for arrangements
of the boats, see commencement of
this route.
Money. Both Danish and Norsk
silver and paper dollars are freely
taken here, but not the small money.
Upon Danish there is no loss, the
dollar of that country passing for 2
rix Swedish. The Norsk specie d.
passes current for 4 rix S. , but sub ject to a loss in the exchange of 9
sk. rix S. upon each of the former.
Small Swedish money is difficult to
obtain except at the post-office or the
banks, and those who are about to
travel by land into the interior should
provide themselves with plenty of it.
Paper is preferred by the peasants and
people at the station-houses.
Travellim/ Servants. Travellers
going to Norway will do well to en
gage an interpreter or servant here,
who can speak English, Norwegian,
and Swedish, as they are very diffi
cult to be obtained in. Christiania.
Gottenburg is situated upon the
Gota River, 5 E. m. from the sea.
The town is not picturesque, but its
situation is, and there are many
lovely points of sight to be obtained
from the rocky and sterile hills in
the neighl>ourhood, particularly to
the N., looking up the valley and
river.
Founded by Gustavus Adolphus in
1611, and then built of wood, it has
suffered frequent ravages from fire ;
but since 1746 most of the 'new
buildings have been constructed of
brick and stucco, or stone. Of the
former strength of its fortifications
there are now but few remains, ex
cept some detached forts.
350
ROUTE 63. GOTTENBURG.
Sweden.
The population, with the parishes the sea in boats constructed for the
of Ovegryte and Carl Johan, is about purpose.
The large suburb of Klippen on the
37, 14(>. It is tile second city in Swe
den, the see of a bishop, and the resi S. contains the great depots of deals
dence of a military governor. The and iron for export, as large vessels
trade of Gottenburg is large, and an cannot get higher up the river.
A regiment of artillery is always
nually increasing, from the convenience
of its harbour, and its connection with quartered in Gottenburg, and fine sol
the interior of the country by the Goia dier-like troops they are. The chari
Canal. The staple exports are iron, table institutions are numerous ; but
steel, and deals ; the produce of the travellers coming from Norway, where
rich mines and vast pine forests of a beggar is so very rarely seen, will
Wermeland upon the Wenern Lake. be struck with the number of ableOf deals there are annually exported bodied mendicants here. Petty theft
about 160,000 dozens; of these the is in proportion, and a strict look
best are sent to England, and the out must be kept upon baggage while
inferior qualities go to France, Bel waiting upon the quay for steamers.
gium, &c. The imports comprise Finkel is the bane of the lower
colonial produce, wines, fish, &c. classes ; this, Mr. Carnegie's efforts
The chief merchants are mostly Eng are overcoming by the introduction of
lish and Scotch, particularly the lat porter at a cheap rate, and of so
ter, amongst whom Mr. Carnegie good a quality that quantities are ex
holds a distinguished place. In re ported to Russia, and it is fast be
ceipt of a large income derived from coming a favourite beverage in the
his sugar refineries here earned on North.
under a patent he has obtained, he
The Environs. The Cemetery is
has devoted himself in the most phi some distance out of the city on the
lanthropic spirit to the improvement N. side. The inscription at the
of the habits of the lower classes, entrance is, 11 Tank pa db'dev,"
the amelioration of agriculture, and a " Think of death." There are some
variety of other objects of the high delightful walks and drives in the
est importance to the people, and neighbourhood, and particularly on
which are gradually but permanently the S. and E. There are likewise
producing the most beneficial re several cotton and other manufactories
around the city. An agreeable ex
sults.
The principal public buildings and cursion may be made by taking a
places of business of the merchants boat down the fjord to the fortress of
are upon the canal, which runs Elfsborg, which guards the entrance
through the centre of the town.
to it, and was built in 1660.
About 20 Eng. m. N. W. of Got
The two principal Churches are the
Cathedral and the Swedish Church ; tenburg, upon a small island, is the
the view from the cupola of the latter town of Marstrand, which is the
should be seen. English Service fashionable bathing-place of the
every Sunday at 11, in a chapel be Swedes during July and August.
hind the New Exchange.
The voyage may be safely made in
The public buildings are of little an open boat amongst the islands, or
interest, except the New Exchange, by the steamer which frequently runs
which promises to be an ornament to there.
The journey by steamer to the
the town when finished. The estab
lishment for hot and cold salt-water Falls of Trollhdttan does not now
baths near the quay is much fre take more than 6 hours from Got
quented. The water is brought from tenburg.
Sweden.
eoute 64.Stockholm to tr^ndhjem.
Steamers.To Hull every Friday

afternoon. To Stockholm nearly
every day in the week by the Gbta
Canal. (See commencement of this
Route.) To Christiania every Thursdayat 4 a.m., dist. 170 E. m. ; average
passage, 23 hours. Fare, Chief Cabin,
8 Norsk, sp. ds. On her way this
vessel calls at one of the ports in the
Christiania Fjord, where she meets
the steamer going from Christiania
round to the W. coast. To Copen
hagen every Sunday at 5 a.m. by the
boat from Christiania ; dist. 130 E.
m. ; average passage, 16 hours. Fare,
34 sp. d. Norsk : and also on Tues
days, Thursdays, and Fridays, calling
at Warberg, Halmstad, and Helsingborg. To Lubeclc on Fridays at 4
p.m. Fare, Chief Cabin, 24 ds. b.
Carriages, and sometimes car
rioles, may be purchased or hired of
the livery-stable keepers here, of
whom there are several. The former
are usually charged about 3 r. d. a
day when used, and 2 while return
ing empty. 200 r. d. is about a fair
price for a carriage and coachman to
Christiania, including the hire of
horses and every expense, as well as
the return of the carriage.
A Diligence runs twice a week
between Stockholm and Helsingborg,
calling here en route. Time, hence
to Stockholm, 5 days ; and to Hel
singborg, 2.
ROUTE 64.
STOCKHOLM TO TRONDHJEM BY UPSALA,
SUNDSVALL, AS1> OSTERSUND.
Distance, 90 Swed. m., or about
610 Eng. If a 4-wheel carriage be
taken, it should be of the lightest
description, and provided with shafts,
drag, and fork. Carrioles are best
where no lady is of the party. See
Rte. 62 as to Steamers to Upsala
every day, and which take carriages ;
also Rte. 65 for steamer to Tornea,
which calls at Sundsvall and all the
S57
coast towns upon this Rte. The small

Swedish Road-book should be pur
chased, in case of any alteration in
the stages given upon this road.
Clean sheets and good bedding are
usually met with in the poorest sta
tion-houses in Sweden. Good coffee,
milk, eggs, and fish may be depended
upon ; but good bread or meat are
rare out of the towns, and therefore
it is advisable to establish a provision
basket in travelling this route, as
well as all others in this country.
The N. of Sweden abounds in
mountain rivers, having for the most
part their sources in the great barrier
mountain chain, and all emptying
themselves after a more or less wan
dering course into the Gulf of Both
nia ; the principal of these are the
Ljusne, and the Njurunda ; north
ward of these are the Oniea, the
Pitea, the Lulc-a, and the Tornea ;
the last of which forms the boundary
line between Sweden and Russia ;
many of these, particularly the Lulea,
foim cataracts of great height. The
whole eastern coast of Sweden from
Gefie northwards, presents a vast
range of cataracts by which the va
rious mountain streams bring to the
sea the tribute of the loftier fields.
Trout abound in all these rivers, and
salmon likewise, wherever they can
enter them.
Leaving Stockholm upon the N.
side the road passes through lovely
scenery all the way to Upsala by
the following stations :
Rotehro, 2 m.
Marsta, If.
From hence a road to the W. leads
to the ancient town of Siytuna, 1 m.
distant. See Rte. 62.
A kike, If.
t* Upsala, 14See Rte. 62. From Upsala the
road continues N. across the great
plain of Upsala, and then enters a
thickly-wooded country, much undu
lated, and with numerous small lakes
and streams. The stages are
358
route 64.Stockholm to trondhjem.
* IISyria, 1J.
Liibii, \\.
Y/re, 2.
Mehede, 2J.
Here the road joins the E. bank of
the noble 1>(U Hirer, which forms a
lake of great length, containing
numerous small islands, and conti
nues along it through most picturesque
scenery to
Wcst-aiiA, 14Here there is a valuable salmonfishery, and the Dal forms some
splendid cascades close to its junction
with the Ghilf of Bothnia, which is
but a short distance from henee.
These cascades are considered next in
importance to the Kails of Trollhattan. The scenery around is also
most beautiful, and, as such, one of
the most celebrated spots in Sweden.
The king has a park and manor here.
Crossing the Dal the road keeps
along the left bank for some distance,
and then along the coast of the gulf
till near
+ * Gefle, 24. The population of
this town is upwards of 9800. It is
one of the prettiest in Sweden, and
ranks as the third in commercial im
portance, and sixth for the extent of
its population. The church is worth
visiting. Gefle is the residence of
the governor of the province, and
has a fine court-house and good
public library. Ship-building is car
ried on here to a considerable extent,
and nearly 100 vessels belong to this
pdft. The harbour is excellent. The
chief exports are timber, pitch, tar,
and iron, and its imports wheat and
salt. Steamers to and from Stock
holm 2 or 3 times a week. The days
vary. Fare, Chief Cabin, 6 d. b.
The town is divided into 4 quarters
by the river flowing from the Stornsjon
Lake, which is a short distance on
the S.W. This river separates itself
into 3 branches, and forms 2 islands,
on which, as well as on either bank,
the town is built.
There is another road to Gefle
Sweden.
from Upsala, passing the Danemora

mines. For stations, see Route 62,
" Excursion from Uj>sala."
Travellers, in skirting the shores
of the Gulf of Bothnia, will have an
opportunity of investigating the cu
rious phenomenon of the progressive
rising of the land. The fact of this
elevation has been ascertained beyond
doubt, by Von Buch and Lyell, and
is found to increase as we proceed
northwards. Beds of shells are
found in places 200 feet above the
present level of the Baltic. Here,
as well as at Kalmar, and other places,
marks have been placed along the
rocks to ascertain the rate of this
progressive elevation.
On the W. from hence, a road leads
to Falun in Dalecarlia. See Rte. 62.
Gefle to Sundsvatt.
The road continues more or less
near the coast the whole way, pass
ing numerous small lakes and streams,
and a densely-wooded, low, but un
dulating country, gradually sloping
upwards to the mountains in the W.
Quantities of boulders of all sizes are
frequently seen, and the hamlets and
farm-houses are numerous, but of a
poor and comfortless class. The sta
tions are
Trbdje, If.
Berg, 1J.
* Str&'jara, 2f.
On this stage the road passes be
tween the large lakes of Beryviken on
the W., and Marman on the E.,
crossing the stream which connects
them. The Ljusne River is the great
tributary which forms these lakes,
and flows from the mountain boun
dary between Sweden and Norway,
near Roraas. It passes through some
wild and magnificent country, and
makes numerous falls and grand
cataracts in its course.
* Mo Myskie, If.
The station-house here is very
good. From hence a road branches
off on the W. to Elfdal in Dalecarlia,
Sweden.
ROUTE 64. BY TJPSAIA AND SUNDSVALL.
(see Kte. 62,) and on the E. to the

small town of Soderhamn on the
coast, \\ distant. Steamers to and
from Stockholm 2 or 3 times a week.
The days vary. Fare, Chief Cabin,
8 d. b.
* Jfongsg&rden,
* Bro, 2J.
* Iggesund, 1.
Upon this stage the small town of
Hudiksvall is passed on the right ; it
is situated at the head of a deep bay
upon the coast. It has about 2000
inhabitants, who are chiefly engaged
in the Stromming-fishery, a small
fish about the size of a sprat. They
are cured like herrings, and are in
great request amongst all classes in
the N. parts of the Baltic. Steamers
2 or 3 times a week to and from
Stockholm. Fare, Chief Cabin, 10
d. b. Numerous small streams are
crossed during the next 4 stages.
Sanna, If.
* Malsta, f.
* Bringsta, If.
Orgttje, If.
* Maj, 2.
Near here the road crosses the
noble Njurunda River, and from
thence continues close along the coast
all the way to Sundsvall. But those
who do not wish to see that town,
may take the direct route from Maj to
Wattjom, 3 m., which is the next sta
tion beyond Sundsvall, and saves 1J m.
f * Sundsvall, 2J. This town
contains about 3000 inhabitants. It
was completely destroyed by fire in
1805. Its position renders it of
much importance, as being the point
of junction of the high roads to
Trondhjem and Tornea. The town is
prettily situated at the head of a bay,
and is surrounded by steep hills. Its
sheltered situation favours the growth
of a variety of trees, which form an
agreeable change to the endless fir
forests through which the road has
passed to this place.
Some English firms are established
here, and a considerable trade is car
359
ried on with England and other coun

tries, in timber, pitch, tar, &c.
Steamers to and from Stockholm
call here 2 or 3 times a week. Fare,
Chief Cabin, 13J d. b. They take
carriages. Steamers also northwards
to Haparanda frequently, touching
at all the chief ports in the Gulf of
Bothnia.
Sundsvall to Oslersund.
The road from Sundsvall to Trond
hjem is very good ; the accommoda
tion, except at 0,-stersund, miserable.
Travellers should on no account go
without provisions. They will find
little on the road, except rye-bread,
milk, eggs, and coffee. The journey
requires about 5 days. Perhaps the
best sleeping-places would be BorgsjSbyn the 1st night, 6 S. m. ; Ostcrsund the 2nd, 104 S. m. ; Forssa the
3rd, 11J S. m. ; Leranger, in Route
33, the 4th, 12 S. m.; Trondhjem,
the 5th, 7 N. m.
On leaving Sundsvall, the road
keeps to the N.W., through a hilly
and thickly-wooded country, the as
cent being generally continuous, but
very gradual all the way. The first
stage is
Wattjom, If.
Here the road enters the fine valley
of the Njurunda River, which forms
several cataracts during the 4 next
stages, which the road continues along
its N. bank. These stages are
Nedan-sjo, 1|.
Kjdllsta, 1J.
Ahlsta, 2\.
* Borgsjbbgn, 1 .
Here the road quits the Njurunda,
and, passing through extensive forests
during the next two stages, soon joins
the large Rafsurids Lake, along the
E. bank of w-hich, and a chain of
smaller ones connected with it, our
Route continues. The last stage is
along the E. bank of the extensive
Storns Lake. The stages are
Jamt Krogen, If.
*Bracke, 2.
360
route 65.Stockholm to hapabanda.
* Grimnas, If.
Fanbifn, \\.
Giird'e,
+ * Ostersund, 14. This small
town, but the chief of the province,
is built on the E. bank of the Storns
Lake, of which it commands lovely
views. A considerable fair is held
here in January. Population about
550.
Ostersund to Trondhjem.
From Ostersund the road is carried
across a small island in the lake, and
subsequently round the N. side of the
Alsenxjon by these stages
Made, If.
Faxeifven, 1|.
JBaye, If.
Uppland, 2\.
The ascent all the way continues
very gradual. Here the scenery
ceases to be of the same tame and
monotonous character as heretofore ;
grand mountains rise in the distance
on the N.W., and the road, after
winding along the banks of the Liten
Lake during most of the next stage,
then enters the fine valley of the Are
River, and follows its left bank for
a long way. Here the Areskutan
mountains on the N. tower up from
the valley to an altitude of 4844 feet.
Good shooting may be had about these
mountains; bears are occasionally met
with. From Uppland the stages are
Stamgarde, 2.
The best point from whence to as
cend the Areskutan mountains is at
Miirvik, upon this stage. It takes 2
or 3 hours walking ; the view is ex
tensive, but not very beautiful.
*Forssa, 2.
The Finnefos, a fine waterfaH, dis
tant about 1 \ S. m. from Forssa, may
be reached from henee. A lake is
passed on the right hand, where boats
may generally be obtained to cross the
lake, on the other side of which is
the fall.
Stalljernstugan, 2.
From hence the ascent is long and
Sweden.
steep nearly the whole stage, during

which the birch becomes more abun
dant than the fir. The road continues
picturesque, and numerous waterfalls
add to the wild character of the
scenery.
Skalstuga, 2.
This is the last station on the
Swedish side of the mountains. The
ascent from hence again becomes
gradual, and the scenery less grand.
Ptarmigan abound along this ridge
of the mountains, and bears are said
to be numerous in the lower parts.
The Norwegian frontier is passed
about midway upon the stage, where
a rude pile of stones marks the boun
dary line, which is most carefully
kept up throughout its whole length.
At this point the road is about 2000
feet above the sea-level.
Soon after crossing the frontier,
the road passes between some fine
mountains, and rapidly descends on
entering the grand valley of the Suul
River, in which the scenery becomes
magnificent. The first station on
the Norwegian side, where horses can
be procured, is
Siculstuen, 3 ;
but near the frontier, on the Norwe
gian side, is the Kongstuen station,
where horses are baited on ascending
from the Norwegian side.
From henee to Trondhjem, see
Route 33.
ROUTE 65.
STOCKHOLM TO IIAPARANDA AND TORNEA, ALONG THE COAST OP THE
GULP OP BOTHNIA.
Dist. 114| Swed. m., or about 773
Eng. Steamers leave Stockholm for
Tornea every fourth or fifth day dur
ing the months of June and July.
They call at Gefle, Soderhamn, Hudiksvall, Sundsvall, Hernosand, Skelleftea, Umea, Pitea-, Lulea, and otheV
places along the coast. The average
passage to Haparanda is 4 or 5
days. Fare, Chief Cabin, 33 d. b.
Sweden.
eoute 65.Stockholm to hapaeanda.
Steamers to Gefle and Sundsvall more

frequently. Fare to Gefle, Chief
Cabin, 6 d. b. ; to Sundsvall, 13 d. b.
These steamers take carriages, so that
the journey may be made entirely, or
partly, by land, as may be desired.
If it be intended to enter Russia by
this route, care should be taken to
have the passport vise" accordingly in
Stockholm by the Russian minister or
consul. One of the chief objects in
visiting Tornea, is to see the sun at
midnight, which, for a few days in
June, is visible from hills at some little
distance to the northward. At Hammerfest, in Norway (see Route 24),
it is to be seen for nearly 6 weeks, and
the scenery upon the Norwegian side
is infinitely more grand than upon
this route. As to the best carriage
to take, station-houses, provisions,
&c, see Route 64, which from Stock
holm to Sundsvall is the same as
this.
"The shores of the Gulf of Both
nia from the steamer, are very flat
and uninteresting, the navigation very
intricate and dangerous, and it is
altogether rather a tedious voyage.
High up in the Gulf of Bothnia, the
water becomes nearly fresh, and I
have seen fresh-water fishpike,
perch, &c. caught from the stern of
the steamer, when stopping to take
in fuel."MS. Notes.
From Sundsvall to Umea in Lapland.
As far as Docksta the scenery is
generally very pleasing ; the road,
during the greater part of the way,
winding along the banks of small
lakes, and the heads of deep bays;
but after that, as the soil gets poorer,
vegetation becomes stunted, and there
are few pleasing features to vary the
dull monotony of the vast and stunted
pine forests. The stages are
Wifita, 1J,
Upon this stage the noble Indals
River is crossed at its junction with
the gulf.
Fjal, 1.
861
HaggsjS, If.
"Hernosand, 14, which is built
upon the Island of Hernon, in the
Gulf of Bothnia, and has upwards of
3000 inhabitants. The bishop of the
diocese, which is the most N. in
Sweden, resides here. Shipbuilding
is carried on to some extent, and there
is a great air of comfort and wellbeing about the place. Steamers call
here to and from Stockholm. Fare,
Chief Cabin, 15^ d. b. The distance
back to the next station on the Torne& road is 1 m.
Nasland, 1.
Weda, 1J.
Upon this stage the Anyerman River
is crossed by a ferry. This noble
stream forms a vast lake for some
distance from its mouth ; the shores'
of which display some of the finest
specimens of wild scenery to be met
with in the N. of Sweden. The
salmon in it are numerous, and the
river forms many noble cascades and
rapids in its course to the sea.
Herrskog, 14.
* Askja, If.
* Docksta, lj.
From hence to Umea, the soil in
creases in poverty, but the inhabi
tants gain a comfortable livelihood by
their skill and industry in weaving
linen.
Spjute, If.
Somas, 14.
* Brosta, 1J.
At this station excellent samples of
the linen manufactured in this dis
trict may generally be found. The
best qualities are beautifully fme and
very cheap. The products of the
looms of this part of Sweden are sold
throughout the country.
* Tdfra, 1J.
On this stage the Gided River is
crossed.
* Omka, 14.
Midway upon this stage Lapland is
entered.
Afva, 2.
Some distance from hence, the
B
362
route 65.Stockholm to haparanda.
Slnra LSjdan River is crossed, and

the road winds round the head of a
bay to
* Lerar, 1J.
The Ore River is crossed on the
way to
AnyersjB, Ij.
* SSrmjgle, \\.
* StoehsjSn, 2.
* I' mi A. f. The Inn here is well
spoken of. This town is the capital
of Westerbothnia, and has 1654 in
habitants. It is built upon a plain,
and the scenery around is flat and un
interesting. The governor of the dis
trict resides here. The town is built
on the left bank of the Umed Rirer,
which is extensive, and rises in the
mountains near the Norwegian fron
tier. There are mineral springs in
the neighbourhood. Steamers call
here on their way between Stockholm
and Tornei. Fare, Chief Cabin,
2ff d. b.
Umed to Piled.
The road continues along the coast
through flat districts and vast forests,
but in which the birch and aspen be
come more freely mingled with the
fir. Such, indeed, is the character of
the scenery the whole way to Tornea,
occasionally varied by agreeable views
of the sea, and the rushing streams
from the mountains on the W. Most
of them abound in salmon, which is
the staple food of the people. Nu
merous instances occur between Umea
and TorneA which prove that the
whole of this part of Sweden is
slowly rising from the sea. The
stages are
Innertajie, .
* Sdfvar, If.
* Djekneboda, If.
* Riekled, 1J.
* Gumboda, 1^.
Grimsmark, 1J.
Brodnye, If.
Daytltslen, If.
Bured, 1^.
Innervilc, 1J.
Sweden.
Upon this stage the Sheleftea Hhvr

is crossed, and at a short distance
from the next station on the right, is
the small town of Skeleftcd itself.
* Sunnand, 1.
Froslkdye, If.
Byske, \\.
Abyn, If.
Kinbdei, 1.
Jafre, 1J.
*PiteA, 2J. The Piled River is
crossed before entering this town,
which is prettily situated upon the
coast, and has about 1545 inhabitants.
A small trade is carried on, chiefly
in timber. Steamers call here on
their way between Stockholm and
Tornea. Fare, Chief Cabin, 28 d. b.
From Piled to Luted
the stations are:
Ojeby, f.
Rosvik, 2.
* Ersnas, 1^.
Gdddvik, \\.
On this stage the noble Luled River
is crossed, which is celebrated for the
numerous cataracts and rapids it forms
during its course from the mountains.
Some of the richest iron ore in Lap
land is obtained from the mines in
the neighbourhood of this river.
Luled Gammelstad, f. Whence to
* LuleA, 1 . This is an uninterest
ing town of about 1350 inhabitants.
The old town was built by Grustavus
Adolphus, but was transferred here
in consequence of the sea having re
ceded from it. Steamers call here on
their way between Stockholm and
Tornea. Fare, Chief Cabin, 30 d. b.
From Luled to Haparanda
the road still passes through a thicklywooded country of little interest, ex
cept for its geology. The stages are
PersSn, If.
* Rdned, If.
Near here the Rdned River is
crossed. It is nearly 600 feet wide,
and is one of the most considerable
streams which rise in the mountains
of Swedish Lapland.
Sweden.
route 60. Stockholm to Finland.
ffvit&n, 14.
Tore, If.
. M&nsbyn,
Another of the great Lapland
streams, the Kalix, is crossed upon
this stage.
Houses and villages
are numerous upon its banks. Great
numbers of salmon are taken in this
river.
N&sbyn, 1.
Sangio, 2.
Saifvits, 1^.
Nickala, If.
* Haparanda, 1J. This is the
frontier town of Sweden, with a popu
lation of about 500 inhabitants. It is
situated on the shores of a large bay
on the estuary of the Tornea River.
It was founded after Finland and
Tornea were ceded to Russia in 1809,
and is gradually rising into a place
of importance. A considerable local
and foreign trade is carried on in fish,
furs, iron, timber, tar, &c.
Steamers- do not come quite up to
Haparanda : they lie in a fjord nearly
1 Swedish mile west of the town.
Travellers who have followed Route 34,
and are anxious to catch the steamer at
Haparanda, must allow time for this
addition to their journey. It seems
almost useless to insert days of depar
ture of steamers, whentheyare changed
from year to year. In 1856 they left
Haparanda on the 5th, 10th, 14th,
19th, 24th, and 28th of June ; and the
3rd, 8th, 17th, and 31st of July ; 10th,
and 26th of August. The days, how
ever, are frequently advertised in the
Swedish newspapers: and any one
following Route 34 from Alten, would
no doubt be able to obtain a sight of
one there by the kindness of some of
the residents. Fare to Stockholm,
33^ d. b. Average passage, 4 or 5
days in the middle of summer.
Tornea is built upon an island in
the river opposite to Haparanda, and
is the frontier town of Russia. It
was founded in 1602, and is celebrated
in the history of science for the visit
made to it, in 1736, by Maupertius,
363
and other French Academicians, ac

companied by the Swedish astronomer,
Celsius. The former remained here
12 months, for the purpose of carry
ing on his astronomical observations,
but which appear to have been want
ing in accuracy. The object of the
expedition was to determine the exact
figure of the earth. Similar obser
vations were carried on here, in 1801,
under Svanberg, the Swedish astro
nomer.
In June the sun is, for a few days,
visible here at midnight. Charles
XI. of Sweden, and several other
celebrated persons, have visited Tor
nea on that account. Those who do
not arrive here exactly at the right
time had better proceed from hence to
Malarengi (see Route 34), which
being half a degree further N., the
sun may there be seen for a much
longer period ; particularly from the
summit of the neighbouring mountain,
Avasaxa, one of the geometrical sta
tions of Maupertius.
Tornea is usually garrisoned by a
small party of Cossacks. Large
numbers of salmon ascend the Torneft
River and its tributaries.
From hence up the river and across
the mountains to Alten in Norway,
see Route 34.
ROUTE 66.
stockholm to finland in russia by
the Aland islands.
The distance from Stockholm to
Abo in Finland by this way, is about
250 Eng. m. This Route is but little
frequented since the introduction of
Steamers between Stockholm and Abo.
(See steamboats from Stockholm, Rte.
60.) Care must be taken to have
passports properly vise' by the Russian
minister or consul in Stockholm.
The road to the coast leads to the
N. E. through a pleasing and thicklywooded country, greatly intersected
k 2
864
route 67. Stockholm to cnBisTtANiA.
by small lakes, by the following

stages
Enata, If.
Bro'thu, 1|.
Hall, 14.
Jiitanda,
Krar/sta, 1.
Svanberga, 1.
Staby, 1\.
Trasta, 1{.
Grisselhamn, }.
Making 1 1 J Swed. m. from Stockholm,
or 774 Eng. A carriage may be hired
there for the journey, as the carts
kept at the stations have no springs.
From (Trisselhamn a boat must be
taken to Aland, about 28 Eng. m.
The Aland Islands
now form part of the enormous terri
tory of Russia. They were wrested
from Sweden in 1809. Strong forti
fications have been erected, and a
large naval and military force is
always kept, up here. For further
particulars see Russia.
From hence the Route to Abo is
through a maze of small islands,
generally well wooded, but low and
unpicturesque.
ROUTE 67.
STOCKHOLM TO CHRISTIANIA BY THE
NORTH OF THE MALAR LAKE, AND
THROUGH CARLSTAD AND KONGSYINGER.
Distance, 59 1 Swed. and Norsk m.,
or 404 Eng. Steamers daily from
Stockholm- to Wsster&s upon this Rte. ,
near the head of the Malar Lake,, in
8 hours. Fare, Chief Cabin, 2 d. b.
From Stockholm to Arboga on this
Route every Tuesday and Friday, at
7 a.m., calling at Strengnas ; return
ing on Wednesdays and Saturdays at
10 a.m. Fare, Chief Cabin, 3 d. b.
From Stockholm to Orebro on this
Route, calling at -Strengnas, on the
S. side of the Malar Lake, every
Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday at 5
Sweden.
a.m., in 14 hours, returning on Sun

days, Tuesdays, and Fridays. Fare,
Chief Cabin, 5 d. b. And two of
the steamers which leave Stockholm
every week for Gottenburg, by the
Goto Canal, call at Carlstad upon this
Route, at the N. end of the Wenem
Lake, which is about 38 m. from
Stockholm, and 22 to Christiania.
Diligence to Orebro on this Route,
twice a week, on Sundays and Wed
nesdays at 9 a.m. Fare, inside,
17 r. d. The steamers take carriages.
From Orebro there is a railway to
Nora : trains twice a day. By land
from Stockholm to Westeras is 11 ^m.
As to the best carriage for the
journey, provisions, &e. , see Route
64. No visi for passports is requisite
to enter Norway from Sweden. A
good supply of Swedish small money
is essential, and the peasants prefer
paper to coin. Where speed is an
object, a Forbud should be sent, that
horses may be in readiness at the
stations.
This Route passes through the cen
tral districts of Sweden, skirts the
lovely Malar Lake throughout its
whole length, and also the N. end of
the largest lake in Sweden, the
Wenern, and includes some of the
principal towns. It is the most direct
road between the two capitals. Much
of the scenery en route is very pleas
ing, the hills being, for the most part,
too low to render it grand. Upon
this road, as well as most others in
Sweden, the country abounds in woods
and forests, chiefly of fir and pine.
See also preliminary observations to
Route 35, which this joins at the
Norwegian frontier.
The road quits Stockholm by the
N. gate, and for a short distance is
the same as that to Upsala ; it then
branches off to the W., and the sta
tions are
* Barkarby, 1J m.
Upon this stage the N. branch of
the Malar Lake, which leads to Sigtuna and Upsala, is crossed by a long
Sweden.
ROUTE 67.THROUGH KONGSVINGER.
floating bridge peculiar to Sweden.

A small toll is payable.
* Tibbie, 1J.
* Gran, 2.
This station is upon the Upsala
branch of the Malar Lake. A cross
road from hence to the E. leads to the
ancient town of Sigtuna, 2\ m. (see
Route 62). About the middle of the
stage from Gran, another branch of
the Malar Lake is passed on the S.
Litdena, \\.
* Enkopino, 1J. This small town
is at the head of a little lake commu
nicating with the Malar. Shortly
before arriving at the next station the
road quits the province of Upsala and
enters that of Westeias.
Bjur/gsta, If.
* WesterAs, If. This town has
about 4000 inhabitants. It is situated
at the mouth of the Svart-an, at its
junction with the Malar Lake, and
in the most productive part of the
province. A- considerable business
is carried on here, there being a num
ber of small iron-works in the neigh
bourhood.
The chief objects of interest are
the Cathedral and the Castle. The
former is a red brick Gothic structure,
of the 11th century, but has under
gone considerable alterations. The
tower was erected in 1 693, and is 328
feet high. Among the monuments in
the interior are those of Eric XIV.
and the celebrated Magnus Brahe and
his two wives. In a building which
forms part of the cathedral is the
library of the Gymnasium. It com
prises 11,000 volumes, and includes a
valuable collection taken at Mayence
during the Thirty Years' War, and
presented to this town by Oxel Oxenstyerne. There is likewise several im
portant and interesting manuscripts.
The Castle is also a very old build
ing. Eric XIV. was imprisoned here
prior to his removal to Orbyhus. The
battlements command a beautiful
view over the Malar Lake and sur
rounding country. Steamer from hence
to Stockholm daily. See commence

ment of this Route.
Kolback, If.
* Kiipmo, 14. This small town
contains nothing of interest. It is
situated on a stream a short distance
from the head of the Malar Lake.
* Arboga, If. This town has about
2500 inhabitants, and is situated
upon the river of that name. It ia
navigable to the Malar, and from it
a canal is formed to the large Hjelmare Lake, on the S. This is a con
siderable entrepot for iron to be
shipped for Stockholm.
In the town church the altar-piece
is attributed to Rembrandt. The
church of St. Nicholas likewise con
tains several paintings, which are
much esteemed here. There are se
veral interesting remains of antiquity
both in the town and neighbourhood.
Steamer from hence to Stockholm
every Wednesday and Saturday at
10 a.m. See commencement of this
Route.
[From Stockholm to Arboga there is
another road, but it is 2 S. m. longer,
and there is nothing of very great in
terest on it. The following stations
on it are given for the convenience of
those who may find it necessary to
travel by it instead of by the more
direct road. Stockholm to Fittja, 1 J ;
Sodertelje, 2 ; Eumla, 1J ; Laggsta,
14; Mamiby, \{ ; Eksftg, If; Kjulsta, 1 ; Lund, 1 ; Smedby, 1 ; Knugsbr, 14 ; Arboga, 1J.
From Arboga there is a railway to
Orebro, distant about 35 Eng. no.,
which are performed in about 1^
hour. The stations are Fellingsbi o,
10 ; Ullersatter, 5 ; Frovi, 3; Dylta,
6 ; Axberg, 4 ; Orebro, 7. Fare, 1st
class,* 5 r. d. Trains, twice a day,
except on Sundays.]
From hence the road keeps along
the bank of the river nearly all the
way to the next station, and shortly
before arriving there the province of
Orebro is entered.
Fellingsbro, 1J.
366
eoute 67. Stockholm to chbtstianja.
Glanshammar, If.
* Orebro, 14. This town has
about 5800 inhabitants, and is built
on a small river near the head of the
lljelmare Lake. There is a consider
able printing establishment here, from
whence many of the best Swedish
books are issued. The Church is
interesting, and contains some curious
monuments. This was the first town
in Sweden in which the Lutheran
faith was solemnly established, 1529.
There is an old house of much
historical note. Gustavus Wasa re
sided in it, and in 1529 held the
Assembly of the States there. It was
also a residence of Charles IX., and
the place of election of Bernadotte,
as Crown Prince of Sweden, on the
10th of August, 1810. Steamer from
hence to Stockholm every Sunday,
Tuesday, and Friday at 5 a.m. See
commencement of this Route. The
Diligence between Stockholm and
Gottenburg passes twice a week.
[There is now a railway from 0 ebro
to Arbog:>. (see Arboga above), and also
to Nora, a distance of 20 English miles
through Dylta, 10, a small town, where
there are some sulphur works ; Ferle,
5 ; Nora, 6. Fares, 1st class, 3 r. d.
Train once a day.
Nora is a small town of about 930
inhabitants on the Nora-Sjon. There
are some iron -works near it, but
nothing else of interest.]
From Orebro a road to the S. W.
leads to Gottenburg. See Route 68.
From Orebro the road continues
through a level country, with gently
sloping hills in the distance.
WinterAta Sanna, 1J.
* Edsberg Sanna, 1$.
Storbjbrboda, 1J..
Atorp, l^.
Upon crossing a small stream, a
short way from this station, the pro
vince of Carlstad is entered.
Wall, 1J.
From hence the road skirts the head
of the Wenern Lake towards the
N.W. to
Sweden.
Cbristihehahs, 2\. This is a

little town situated upon a bay of the
Wenern. It is a thriving place, and
has a population of about 2000. The
country continues flat, and the road
skirts the Wenern and its numerous
bays all the way to Carlstad. Some
of the best specimens of Swedish
fanning are met with about here.
Rudsberg, 1J.
Spttnga, 14.
* Carlstad, 1J. This is the
chief town of Wermland, the seat of
a bishopric, and residence of the
governor. The population is about
4128. It is built on the small island
of Tingvalla, at the mouth of the
great Klar River and in the Wenern,
over whicB it commands extensive and
lovely views. Two bridges connect
the town with the main land.
The Cathedral was built in 1730.
Near the altar is a cross, with two
symbolical figures modelled by Sergell.
There is an observatory and cabinet
of natural history, and some of the
public buildings deserve attention.
The trade is considerable ; the chief
exports are timber, iron, copper, and
corn.
The drives and walks in the neigh
bourhood are numerous and very
pleasing, amidst the vast pine forests
which border the lake. Those who
are fond of fishing and shooting will
find this town a good place for both.
"Most of the birds common to the
northern forests are found in the vi
cinity. And amongst the reed-beds
in the numerous inlets of the Wenern
wild-ducks are plentiful, as well as
snipes. Excellent angling is also to
be had in the Wenern." Lloyd's
Field Sports in tlte North, v. i. p. 307.
Salmon, pike, trout, fee., attain a
large size here. Salmon also abound
in the Klar River, but will rarely
take either fly or other bait. The
scenery of the upper part of the Klar
River is highly picturesque ; it abounds
in fine cataracts and rapids, and Mr.
Lloyd considers that in the tract
Sweden.
route 68. Stockholm to gottenburg.
between the Klar and the West Dal

River, "wild beasts, and most other
kinds of game, are as numerous as in
any other part of Sweden (see Route
62). The part of the Klar of which
he speaks begins about 80 Eng. m. N.
of Carlstad, from whence a road leads
up the valley of the Klar almost
throughout its whole extent towards
Rbraas in Norway, upon Route 31.
Two of the Steamers between
Stockholm and Gottenburg call here
on their way to and from those places.
They take carriages on board. See
Route 03. For the land journey from
Carlstad to Gottenburg by the Fall*
of TrollhUttan, see Route 78.
From Carlstad to the Norwegian
frontier the road keeps to the N.W.
through somewhat flat and uninterest
ing scenery, but thickly wooded. The
whole tract is but little elevated above
the level of the sea, and appears
originally to have been a chain of
lakes extending from the Wenern to
the Glommen. The land is held in
small tenures, and the cultivation and
buildings are slovenly and neglected.
The first stage is up the right bank of
the Klar, nearly all the way to
Il/berg, \\.
Upon this stage the foot of the MelIan Lake is passed on the N., and
soon afterwards the Nors River is
crossed, which connects it with the
Wenern.
Prestbol, 1.
Numerous small lakes are passed on
the way to
Hbgboda, \\.
Finntback, 1J.
From hence there is a ferry across
the Wermelen Lake to Skarmnas.
Lerohl, 1J.
From Lerohl a road turns off to
Arvika, 1J, a small town of about
500 inhabitants, connected with the
Wenern by the Bye Mlv.
Mbgralta, l1.
Great part of this stage is along
the N. bank of the Flagan Lake, to
Strand, lj.
367
Haga, \\.
Morast, 1.
This is the last station in Sweden.
The Wrongs Elv is crossed upon this
stage, and soon afterwards the Nor
wegian frontier, which here, as well
as throughout its whole length from
N. to S. , is .marked by an avenue cut
through the forest, and piles of stones
placed within view of each other.
f Magnord, 1.
From hence it is 11| Norsk, or 83
Eng. m. to Christiania, as in Rte. 35.
ROUTE 68.
STOCKHOLM TO GOTTENBURG BY THE
NORTH ROAD, THROUGH WESTEfiAS,
OREBRO, AND MARIESTAD.
Distance 49f Swed. m., or 337
Eng. From Stockholm there are
3 routes to Gottenburgthis and
Route 70 by land, and Route 63 by
water. A Diligence from Stockholm
to Mariestad upon this Route runs
twice a week. See beginning ol
Route 67. From Stockholm to Orebro
it is 20j S. m., as in Route 67. And
see preliminary information in that
Route as to Steamers to Westeras and
Orebro.
From Orebro the road passes
through a thickly-wooded and undulat
ing country, having numerous lakes
and small farms, and for the greater
part of the way to Gottenburg runs
nearly parallel with the S. E. side of
the Wenern Lake, of which views are
at times obtained. For those to
whom time and fine scenery are
objects, throughout this Route from
Stockholm to Gottenburg there is no
thing of sufficient interest to induce
them to follow it, when they can go
by the steamers on the Gota Canal,
Route 63. On quitting Orebro, the
following are the stages :
Blacksta, 2.
Wretstorp, 2.
Ramundeboda, 2.
308
boute 68.Stockholm to GOTTENBUKG.
Soon after leaving this station the

province of Mariestad is entered, and
the road passes near the S. end of the
Skagern Lake.
Hofva, 2J.
From hence a road to the N. leads
along the E. side of the Wenern Lake,
and joins Route 67, at the Wall sta
tion, 34 m. Continuing our road to
Gottenburg, about midway on the
stage from Hofva, the West Gota
Canal is crossed, which connects the
Wettern and Wiken Lakes with the
Wenern.
HasslerSr, 2J.
t * Mariestad, | m. This town
is the chief of the province, and has
about 2132 inhabitants. It is built
upon a small bay of the Wenern, at
the junction of the river Tida with
that lake. During the first stage
from hence the road keeps near the
Wenern, which it then leaves for some
distance, and joins it again near Lid
koping. The DUigenot between
Stockholm and Gottenburg jajses
twice a week.
BjSrsdter, 1J.
Enebacken, 1^.
Upon the N. during this stage,
about 1^ m. distant, is seen the cele
brated fir-clad mountain called Kinne
Kidle, which, though but 927 feet
above the level of the sea, appears
much higher from the flat country
around it. This mountain is much
resorted to in the summer by the upper
classes of the Swedes, many of whom
have houses upon and near it. The
walks and rides about the mountain
which rises from the S. shore of the
Wenern are lovely, and good fishing
may be had in that lake, where the
salmon, trout, and jack run to a very
large size.
Kallangen, If.
t * Lidkoping (pronounced IAdchiping), 1J. This town is at the
head of a deep bay at the S. end of
the Wenern, where the river Lidar
enters the lake, and is another good
fishing station. The inhabitants are
Sweden.
about 2768. The country around the

town is level, while the Kinne Kulle
Mountain forms a beautiful object on
the other side of the bay. Upon the
N. of the town a promontory stretches
for a long distance into the lake, and
its deeply-indented shores, and the
host of small islands about it, afford
fine wild-duck and other water-fowl
shooting.
From Lidkoping the road keeps
more to the S. through a level, wellcultivated district, but in parts thickly
wooded. Numerous villagesare passed.
One mile east of Lidkoping is the
church of Kallby, near which are
some old sepulchral mounds, and a
circle of huge stones.
Malby, 1.
Sparlosa, If.
Those who desire to visit the Falls
of Trollhattan on the way to Gotten
burg can do so from hence. It is
3| m. on the W. by the following
stages : Grastorp, 1J ; Bordsted,
If ; Trollhattan, 1. See Route 63 ;
and from thence to Gottenburg as in
Route 78.
B&reberg, If.
About midway on this stage, the
road enters the province of Wenersborg, and the country forsome distance
becomes more sterile.
Sollebrunn, If.
Upon this stage the road passes be
tween the picturesque lakes of Amten on the S. and Vanderyds on the
N.
Hverled, 1.
Wadcbacka, \\.
NoM, 1J.
Here the road joins Route 78, to
the Falls of Trollhattan and Wenersborg. Here also the picturesque val
ley of the Gbta is entered, along
which it continues for the rest of the
journey. The ruins of the Castle of
Bokus (see Route 77), formerly a
place of great strength, are seen on
the opposite side of the valley, and
numerous craft moving up and down
the river enliven the scene.
Sweden.
route 69.Stockholm to chbistiania.
Agnesberg, If.
The province of Gottenburg is
mtered a short distance from the
jown of
Gottenburg, 1, See Inns, &c,
Route 63.
63. From hence a road leads to the

Falls of TroUhattan, 1J m. south.
From Wenersborg our road con
tinues through an undulating thicklywooded country andby numerous small
lakes to
Almas, 1.
Raknebo, 1J.
ROUTE 69.
t * Uddevalla, J. See Route 77,
STOCKHOLM TO CHRISTIANIA BY THE which is joined here. From hence as
in
that Route to Westgaard, in Nor
SOUTH OF THE WENERN [LAKE,
THROUOH MARIESTAD AND WENERS- way, and from there to Christiania, as
in Route 36.
BOBO.
Dist. 71 Swed. and Norsk m., or
ROUTE 70.
483 Eng. See preliminary informa
tion to Routes 67, 68, and 36. All STOCKHOLM TO GOTTENBURG, BY THE
the steamers upon Route 63 call at
SOUTH ROAD, THROUGH NYKOPING,
Wenersborg upon this road at the S.
LINKOPING, AND JONKOPING.
end of the Wenern Lake, and only \\
m. from the Falls of Trollhattan.
Dist. 50 Swed. m., or 340 Eng.
These, together with the scenery upon From Stockholm there are 3 routes to
the Christiania Fjord, which includes Gottenburgthis and Route 68 by
the splendid Falls of the Glommen, land, and Route 63 by water.
are the chief advantages which this Steamers also leave Stockholm for
Route possesses over that to the N. of NykBping on this Route every Tues
the Wenern, 67. A diligence runs day, Wednesday, Friday, and Satur
from Stockholm to Gottenburg by this day, at 7 a.m., calling at Sodertelje,
Route twice a week. It is 5 days on in 10 hours ; returning on Mondays,
the road.
Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Satur
From Stockholm to Orebro as in days. Fare, Chief Cabin, 3 ds. b.
Route 67, and from thence to Mdlby, And for Norrkiiping, on this Route,
one stage S.W. of the town of Lid- every Sunday, Wednesday, and Fri
day, also calling at Sodertelje. Pas
koping, as in Route 68.
On the W. of Malby a cross-road sage, "11 hours. Fare, Chief Cabin,
skirts the Wenern Lake all the way 5 d. b.
This Route has little to recommend
to Wenersborg, passing through a rich
alluvial country, much intersected by it in preference to the N. road, Route
small streams and well wooded. The 68. The prevailing character of the
scenery is much the same, being
stages are
generally flat, with gently-swelling
Tang, 1. 1J.
elevations, and an abundance of wood
Grastorp,
and small lakes.
Munkesten, H.
From this station the very interest
Leaving Stockholm by the S. gate,
ing Halleberget and other mountains the road passes through picturesque
may be visited (seje Wenersborg, Route scenery, as it skirts the S. side of
63). The road from hence to Weners the Malar Lake during the two first
borg passes through the grand valley stages. A small branch of it is
or pass formed by the Halleberget and crossed before arriving at
Fittja, l\m.
Hakleklint. The Goto, River is crossed
f * Sodertelje, 2. This town has
by a ferry a short distance from
f* Wenersborg, 1. See Route about 1000 inhabitants, and is a
3
870
BOUTE 70. STOCKHOLM TO GOTTENBURG.
great place of resort for the Stock holmers during summer. It is cele
brated for its manufacture of biscuits.
The swing-bridge, by which the canal
here is croAed, is very cleverly con
structed. This canal unites the
Malar Lake with the Baltic. See
also Route 63, and commencement of
this Route, for Steamers calling here.
From hence the road keeps to the S.,
Bkirtiug the deep bay which runs up
nearly to Soiertelje by
PiUcrog, 14.
Stura Ah;/, 2.
Here a road to the S.E. leads to
the small town of Trosa upon the
coast, dist.
From StoraAbythe
road keeps S.W. by numerous small
lakes and streams and a thicklywooded country to
Sr&rdsbro, 2.
T * NykoI'Ino, 2J. This is the
chief town of the province, and has
a population of about 3900 souls. It
is prettily situated at the head of a
small bay of the Baltic, and -the en
virons are pretty. The ruins of the
old Castle still exist here, in which
Birger, in 1318, caused his two
brothers to be murdered. They were
sons of Magnus I. A fine view of
the town and scenery around is ob
tained near the new Castle. It is
considered that Swedish is spoken
with greater purity in this town than
in any other part of the country.
Steamers hence to Stockholm every
Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and
Saturday. See commencement of this
Route.
From Nykoping the character of
the scenery for several stages remains
much the same as that through which
the road has passed from Stockholm.
The stages are
Jader, If.
Wreta, 1J.
Krokek, \\.
Here the Linkbping province is
entered, and the road takes a more
S.W. course, winding round the head
f a deep bay, called Briiciken.
Siceden.
Lilla Aby, 14.

+ * NoRRKdpnra, f. This town is
built at the head of the Braviken,
and the Motala River flows through
it from the Glan Lake upon the W.
It is a place of considerable trade,
and has upwards of 18,000 inhabi
tants. The position of the town is
picturesque, and the walks and drives
in the neighbourhood command some
lovely views, particularly from a spot
called HimmeUtalund, where there is
a mineral well of some repute. Close
to the town are the ruins of the old
castle of Johannesberg. Steamers
from hence to Stockholm every Sun
day, Wednesday, and Friday. See
the commencement of this Route.
From hence a road to the S.E.
leads to the small town of Sdderkoping,
at the head of another deep bay of
the Baltic, 14 m. distant. Towards
Gottenburg our route keeps to the
S.W. through a pretty country to
Brink, \\.
On this stage a portion of the
Gsta Canal is crossed near its junc
tion with the foot of the lovely Roxen
Lake.
Kumla, 1J.
t * Linkopinq, If. This small
town is the chief of the province, and
is the residence of the governor, as
well as of the bishop of the diocese.
It is built in a rich plain upon the
Jtiver Stanga a short distance from
its junction with the Roxen Lake,
which lies upon the N. There is a
cathedral here, besides two churches.
The former is a Gothic structure, and
ranks next to Upsala and Lund in
importance and interest. Several
persons celebrated in Swedish history
are buried in it.
The library of the Gymnasium is
in some respects^ considered the
richest in Sweden. It appears to be
but little known, and is badly ar
ranged. There are upwards of
30,000 vols., including a large col
lection of rare editions of the Bible,
in various languages, besides a num
Sweden.
eodte 7]. Stockholm to iielsingborg.
ber of manuscripts. Attached to this

library there is likewise a Collection
of Antiquities, a small Cabinet of
Specimens of Natural History, and a
highly interesting Numismatic Col
lection.
Many historical events are con
nected with this town ; amongst them
may be noticed the Assembly of the
States here in 1152, in which the
common people were prohibited from
carrying arms, and the payment of
Peter's pence to Rome confirmed.
Close to the bridge, across the Stanga,
the memorable battle of St&ngebro
was fought 25th Sept. 1596, when
Sigismund was defeated by his uncle,
who was soon afterwards elected King
of Sweden as Charles IX.
From Linkoping our route con
tinues S. W. to the Wettern Lake by
Bankeberg, 1.
MjBtby, 11
Here Route 73 to Ystad turns off
to the S. '
Ostad, 1J.
,
Backasand, If,
Near here the E. shore of the Wettern Lake is reached, which the road
skirts to Jonkoping, a lovely drive
past numerous villages, and com
manding extensive views over the
lake.
SjSberga, 1J.
i" * Gbenna, \\. This small town
consists of one long street, and is
prettily situated upon the narrow
base of the high table-land which
forms this shore of the Wettern. The
view of the town from the hill before
entering it on the road from Linko
ping is good.
Rdby, If.
t * Jonkoping, 2. The chief of
the province, with a population of
about 6300 inhabitants : this town
is built on the S. shore of the Wet
tern Lake. The best view of the
town is from the lake, from whence
it is backed on the S. and W. by fir
and pine clad hills of considerable
elevation. There is good fishing to
371
be had in the lake, and shooting in

the surrounding forests. About 10
Eng. m. S.E. of Jonkoping is Taberg,
a hill of iron ore. From Jonkoping
a road to the S. branches off to
Helsiugborg, Route 71, and Ystad,
72.
On quitting Jb'nkoping the road
ascends the hills on the W., and then
continues over a table-land to
Ledhester, 2^.
About midway on this stage the
province of Wenersborg is entered.
(fullered, 2.
Timmelhed, If.
From hence a road upon the S.
leads to the town of Ulrikehamn, f ,
at the head of the Asunden Lake.
From Timmelhed the stage passes
through a hilly and wooded country
to
"H&gna, If.
Ljung, 14.
Eklanda, If.
t * Alingsas, lj. This small
town is upon the banks of a stream
near the MjSren Lake, along the
shore of which, and afterwards of
the Aspen, and their connecting
stream, which flows into the Gota
River at Gottenburg, our road now
continues to that city. The view
from the hills upon the last stage
over the valley of the Gbta is pic
turesque.
Bogesund, If.
Lerum, If.
Gottenburg, 2. See Inns, &c,
Route 63.
ROUTE 71.
STOCKHOLM TO HELSINGB0RG BV NYKOPINO AND JONKOPING.
Distance 58f Swed. m., or 397
Eng. For those desiring to proceed
to or from Denmark between the
above towns, this is the most direct
land route.
From Stockholm to the town of
87-2
route 72.Stockholm to ystad.
Joidliping at the S. end of the Wettern Lake, as in Rte. 70.

The road from Jonkoping to HelBingborg runs through the centre of
the S. of Sweden. The prevailing
character of the scenery is flat.
Some hills occur, but none of great
height ; and these, with the broken
ground, lakes, streams, and extensive
woods, serve to render some of the
views en route very pleasing. On
leaving Jonkoping the road keeps
nearly due S. by
Barnarp, 1.
Route 72 branches off to the left
upon this stage, and the road crosses
a narrow range of hills, from whence
some extensiye views are obtained
over the Wettern Lake and adjacent
country.
Byarum, 2.
Upon this stage the road joins the
Laga River, along the bank of which
and its connecting lakes it continues
great part of the way to Helsingborg.
Skillingaryd, \\.
Klefshult, 1.
Wernamo, 2.
Near here the long and pretty lake
of VidSstern commences, and the
road keeps along its E. bank during
this and the next stage. For great part
of this distance the lake of Elaren
also runs parallel with the road upon
the E., and the scenery is very
pleasing.
T&nnS, 1.
The province of Wexitf is entered
during this stage. It is intersected
by a great number of lakes, present
ing every variety of shape ; some of
them are of considerable extent, and
studded with small islands.
. D&rarp,
A range of wooded hills occurs on
the E., along the foot of which the
Laga flows. The road crosses it to
the right bank and keeps it for some
distance.
Ljungby, 2. The black-cock shoot
ing in the neighbourhood is well
fcpoken of.
Sweden.
Hamneda, 1|.
Midway upon this stage the road
again crosses the stream to the left
bank. The low range of hills still
continues upon the E. during this and
the next stage.
Traheryd, If.
Markaryd, 1.
The road now keeps along the
wooded banks of several small lakes,
and upon crossing a stream about the
middle of the stage the province of
Christianstad is entered.
Faijerhult, 1^.
OrJcelljunga, 1}.
From hence the road passes through
a level country, crossing numerous
small streams.
Ostra Ljungby, If. From hence a
road turns off to Engelholm, If, on
Route 77.
Astorp, 1.
f Helsingborg, 2. For Inns, &c. ,
see Rte. 77.
ROUTE 72.
STOCKHOLM TO YSTAD, THROUGH NYKOPING, JONKOPING, AND WEXIO.
Distance 654 Swed. m., or 442
Eng. For those who miss the steam
ers, which run between Stockholm
and Lubeck, and which call at Ystad,
this and Rte. 73. are the most direct
routes by land, in going tq and from
England joining Routes 60 and 61.
There is also the coast Rte. 74.
From Stockholm to the town of
jBnlBping, at the S. end of the
Wettern Lake, as in Rte. 70.
On leaving Jonkoping the road
passes through the province of that
name, and also of Wexio, Christian
stad, and .Malmo. The prevailing
character of the scenery is too flat to
be grand ; but the number of lakes,
and quantities of wood, and forest,
and broken ground render it exces
sively pleasing at times. The stations
are
Barnarp, 1.
Sweden,
routes 72 and 73.Stockholm to istad.
Route 71 branches off to the right

upon this stage, and the road ascends
a narrow range of hills commanding
lovely views over the Wettern Lake.
Stigamo, .
From hence the road descends into
a level district, with much cultiva
tion at intervals.
Svenarum, 2.
Wrigsta, If.
Starhult,
Another range of hills is now
crossed, and the small hike of Vermen passed on the E.
Bo, 1.
A short distance from this station
the province of Wexio is entered.
Matkutt, 1.
Near here a large hill upon the W.
commands fine views of the Straken
Lake.
Or, 1.
From hence the road keeps near
the W. shore of the Helga Lake,
crossing its foot before reaching
t * Wexio, If. This is the chief
town of the province, has 2800 in
habitants, and is the 'residence of
the governor of the province and
bishop of the diocese. There is a
library of 10,000 volumes, which
comprises some important manu
scripts. There are mineral springs
in the neighbourhood of the town.
[From hence a road to the N.E.
leads into Rte. 75, by Areda, If ;
Ashult,' 1| ; and Nobbeled, 1.]
Continuing from Wexio to Ystad,
the next stage is
Nobbeled, 1.
Upon this stage the road passes be
tween the pretty lakes of Salen on
the N. and Asnen on the S. The
latter is of considerable extent, and
studded with numbers of small
islands. Extensive tracts of forests
are crossed.
GoU&sa, 14.
Dihult, lj.
Here the road joins the E. bank of
the MOckeln Lake, and continues
along it almost all the way to
373
ElmhuU, \\.
The province of Christianstad is
entered near
Marklunda, 2,
Broby, If.
Qviinge, 1J.
Upon this stage the head of the
Helge Lake is crossed, and the road
continues upon the E. bank to the
chief town of the province.
+* Christiakstad, lj. Built upon
a peninsula in the Helge Lake, the
situation of this fortified town is very
pretty, and it is only a short distance
from the Baltic on the S. E. The go
vernor of the province resides here.
This was formerly a place of consi
derable strength, and has, like all the
other towns in Sweden, repeatedly
suffered from fire and by the sword.
The Danes took it in 1676. From
hence to Ystad the scenery is of little
interest ; numerous small streams and
extensive tracts of wood are crossed.
Nobbelof, 1.
Degeberga, 1J.
From hence the road keeps near
the coast, and the Baltic is seen upon
the E.
Brosarp, 1^.
. Tran&s,
The road enters the province of
Malmd on the way to
Herresta, 1|.
t * Ystad, |. See Rte. 60 for ac
count of, and Steamers from hence,
fee.
*
ROUTE 73. I
STOCKHOLM TO YSTAD BY NYKOPING
AHD EKSJO.
Dist. 631 swed. m., or 426 Eng.
There are 4 routes to Ystad, viz. :
Route 60, by water, and this ; be
sides 72 and 74 by land. This road
offers no advantage over that by Jonkoping, Route 72, except that it is
about 20 Eng. m. shorter.
From Stockholm to Mjdlby, two
stages beyond the town of Linkoping,
is the same as Route 70.
374
BOUTE 74.STOCKHOLM TO YSTAD.
After leaving Mjblby the road keeps

to the S. , and the general character of
the scenery is very much the same as
that upon Route 72, from Jonkiiping
to Ystad.
Near here the road enters the pro
vince of Jonkoping, joins the lovely
SOmmen Lake, and keeps along its
W. shore great part of the way to
Siilha.Ua, 2.
Bona, 2J.
Some very pretty scenery occurs as
the road crosses a range of small
hills to
t * Bksjo, - 1 . This is a small town
which has little to attract notice.
Braiismala, \\.
Hvetlanda, If.
From hence the road S. leads to
the town of Carlskrona, Route 74.
This to Wexiii strikes off to the S. W.,
and passes through a country thickly
studded with lakes and woods by
Brobg, l\.
Arset, J.
After crossing another range of hills
the road keeps along the E. shore of a
chain of lakes, of which the Helga is
the last and largest, nearly all the way
to Wexiij, and some lovely views of
them are obtained.
Kr&ketorp, 1.
Tjureda, If.
t * Wexio, 2. See Route 72, and
from hence to Ystad as in that ; dist.
19j Swed. m., or 133 Eng.
ROUTE 74.
STOCKHOLM TO YSTAD, ROUNDTHE COAST
BY KALHAR AND CARLSKRONA.
Dist. 72 Swed. m., or 486 English.
This road embraces all the chief towns
upon the coast to the farthest point
S. at Ystad. There is the choice of 4
routes to Ystad : by water, Route 60
and by land, this, and Routes 72
and 73. Steamers also leave Stock
holm for Westervik upon this Route,
Sweden.
8 times a week. Passage, 20 hours.

Fare, Chief Cabin, 10 d. b. For
Kalmar on this Route, twice a week.
Passage, 24 hours. Fare, 13J d. b.
For Carlshamn on this Route, 8
times a week, calling at Westervik
and Carlskrona. Passage; 40 hours.
Fare, Chief Cabin, 20 d. b.
The scenery upon this Route is of
too monotonous a character to repay
the toil of so long a journey all the
way by land.
From Stockholm to Jader, one
stage beyond Nykiiping, as in Route
70 ; dist. 13 Swed. m., or 88 Eng.
At Jader the road branches^>ff S.,
and some charming views are ob
tained towards the end of the stage,
as it descends from the high ground
to the N. shore of the deep bay of
Braviken, at
Qvarsebo, If.
Here the bay is crossed to
Farjesiaden, \.
much broken and thickly -wooded
ground, by
Fjerdingsta, 1J.
Grintorp, 1.
Near here another deep bay is
crossed, which forms the entrance to
the Gbta Canal from the Baltic ; and
the road continues through a flat
level country, by
Sjogerum, 1^.
Aby, 14.
About midway from hence the
province of Kalmar is entered, nearly
one-half the surface of which is
occupied by bays of the Baltic, innu
merable lakes, and extensive woods.
Knappekulla, 2.
Skedshuh, 1.
Wida, 2.
Upon this stage the road winds
along the W. shore of the Gamleby
Viken to
Seglerum, 1J.
From this station a road leads E.
to the small town of * Westervik, 1 j,
upon the coast. Steamers from
thence to Norrkoping, every Monday
Sweden.
route 74.Stockholm to ystad.
875
at 6 a.m. Fare, Chief Cabin, 4 d. b.

Paboda, 1J.
To Stockholm, 3 times a week ; see
Brbma, 1J.
commencement of this Route. To
Here the road enters the province
Malmi), 3 times a week, calling at of Carlskrona.
Carlshamn, Carlskrona, and Kalmar.
Jemjo, 1 j.
Fare to Malmo, Chief Cabin, 20 d. b.
The road takes a course nearly due
Towards Ystad the stages are
W. to the next station, and some
K&rby, 1.
pretty views are obtained amongst the
Jsund, 1.
islands.
Getterum, 2J.
Lycheby, 1J.
Itthult, If.
A short distance upon this stage a
Jemserum, 1\.
road branches off S. to
From hence the road approaches the
+ * Carlskrona, f. This is the
coast, and skirts it closely all the rest chief town of the province, and un
of the way to Kalmar ; the island of resting from its being the station of
(Hand being in sight, looking across the Royal Fleet, and great Naval
the Sound of Kalmar. The small Arsenal of Sweden. The population
islands all down this part of the coast is about 13, 500. The townwas built
are innumerable, most of them low in 1680, in the time of Charles XL,
and barren, or covered with stunted after whom it was named. He con
fir and pine.
ferred considerable privileges on it,
Norrby, If.
and removed the fleet here from
P&slcaUarik, If. Near here a road Stockholm. The greater portion of
turns off to Oscarshamm, a small the town is upon the rocky island of
port, with about 1900 inhabitants.
Trossd, and the rest upon smaller ones
Monsteras, If.
adjoining, the whole being connected
Alem, \\.
by bridges and an embankment with
JRyssby, 2.
the mainland. The harbour is par
[From hence a road to the E. leads ticularly fine, and has a sufficient
to Refsudden, 1 m., and thence by a depth of water to float the largest
ferry of 4 m. across the Sound, to ships. It has 3 entrances, but the
Stora Rbr in Oland ; Kolstad, If. only one practicable for large vessels
This is near * Borgholm, the capi is on the S. side of the town, and is
tal of Oland, a small town of defended by 2 strong forts. The old
about 600 inhabitants. Continuing docks have been constructed at a vast
from Kolstad to Ormiiga, 1 J ; Sodvik, expense, being blasted out of the solid
H ; Blasinge, 1 J ; Bodahamn, 1\ ; the granite. They were made in the
sea is crossed to Klintehamn in (Jott- time of Charles XII. ; and the new
land, 11; Fettings, 14; Wisby, 1J. docks were constructed underGrustavus
See Route 60.] By the direct route, III. The establishment is upon an
the next station from Ryssby is
extensive scale, and, together with
Db'rby, If. A road turns off hence the model room, will repay the
to Kalmar (see Route 60), distant trouble of their examination to those
f m. From Kalmar to Wassmolosa, who take pleasure in such matters.
the next station on the direct route, is
The town is almost surrounded by
If m. In this part of the province the islands, and there are some lovely
scenery changes, and but few lakes spots in the neighbourhood, particu
occur. The country continues level, larly upon the mainland to the N. E.
and the road keeping close along the and N. W. of the town. Steamers to
coast crosses numerous small streams. Stockholm, calling at Kalmar, WesterWassmolosa, 1, from Dorby.
vik, and Sodertelje, 3 times a week.
Warnaby, 1.
Fare to Stockholm, 18 d. b. Steamer!
876
eoote 75.Stockholm to carlskrona,
to Malmo also 3 times a week, calling

at Carlshanin. Fare, 12| d. b.
Continuing the Route to Ystad, the
road passes through some very pretty
scenery along the coast by
Skillinye, 1J,.
* ROnneby, \\.
Hobg, 14.
Trensnm, \\ (direct to Asarum,
1, and Hasteryd, f) ; or by
+ * Carlshamn, |. This town is
pleasantly situated upon the coast,
and has a population of about 4500.
Steamer* from hence to Stockholm
and to Malmo 3 times a week. See
commencement of this Route for
places called at, &e.
JUdsteryd, f.
Norje, 1J.
Upon this stage the road enters the
province of Christianstad ; and still
skirting the coast, at intervals crosses
numerous small streams and exten
sive tracts of wood all the way to
Tstad.
Edenryd, 1J.
Fjelkinye, 1^.
Hence to Christianstad, a small
town founded by Christian IV. in
1614, is 1 m. ; Ahus, 2. The
steamer from Stockholm to Malmo
calls here once a week.
Yrujsjo, If.
Broaarp, 2.
Tran&s, 1J. A road turns off from
here through Stiby, LJ, to Cimbritshamm, 1\, a small town of about
1200 inhabitants.
IIerrata, I5.
Here the road enters the province
of Malmo.
t * Ystad, f. See Rte. 60 for
Steamers, &c, from hence, and de
scription of the town.
ROUTE 75.
STOCKHOLM TO CARLSKRONA THROUGH
NORRKOPINQ AND EKSJO.
Distance 50| Swed. m., or 340
Eng. From Stockholm to Ilvctlanda,
Sweden.
two stages beyond the town of Eksj5,

is the same as Rte. 73.
On leaving Hvetlanda the road
keeps nearly due S. to Carlskrona,
through the provinces of Jonkoping,
Wexio, Kalmar, and Carlskrona ; the
prevailing scenery being flat, with
long ridges of gentle hills, much wood,
and an abundance of small lakes and
streams. The stages are
Stocketorp, 2 m.
This station is upon a ridge of hiRs,
which a little to the E. take a S.
course. On descending this ridge,
which commands some extensive and
pleasing views, the road, after pass
ing between two small lakes, enters
the province of Wexiii, and keeps to
the W. of the range of hills in ques
tion for several stages.
Nobbeled, \\.
From hence to the town of Wexio
on the S.W. (Route 72) there is a
road by Ashult, 1 ; Areda, If ; and
Wexio, If. Continuing our route
from Nobbeled, the road winds round
a hill 976 feet high, which may be
ascended from the next station at
Lenhiifda, 1|.
A lateral branch of the range on
the E. is crossed upon this stage, and
the latter gradually diminishes tiR it
disappears near the borders of the
province of Kalmar.
Ekebergskulla, If.
Eriksm&la, \\.
A corner of the province of Kal
mar is crossed before arriving at
Emmeboda, 14.
And that of Carlskrona is entered
shortly before arriving at the next
station.
Fuhr, 14.
Kulleryd, 1\.
Bvhbetorp, If.
t * Carlskrona, J. See Rte. 74,
which is joined here.
Sweden,
route 76.ystad and malmo to helsingbokg.
ROUTE 76.
YSTAD AND MALMO TO HELSINGBORG
' THROUGH LUND.
Distance from Ystad to Helsingborg,
9J Swed. m., or 66J Eng. This
Route may be found very useful in
proceeding by Malmo to Copenhagen
or Elsinore to join the steamers from
those places.
Ystad to Malms.
From Ystad (see Rte. 60) a road
near the coast leads direct to Malmo,
distance 6 Swed. m., or 404 Eng.,
bySkifarp, 14 ; Anderstb'f, 1J ; K16rup, 1 ; and
t * Malmo, 2. This is the chief
town of the province, and has a popu
lation of about 12,000. It was
formerly strongly fortified, and a
place of much importance. The walls
have been destroyed, but the castle
remains, and is now used as bar
racks and a prison. Bothwell, Mary
Queen of Scots' third husband, was
long imprisoned here. From the
battlements in clear weather Copen
hagen may be seen to the W., with
the islands of Saltholm and of Amager between. There are several small
manufactories carried on here, which
give a brisk trade to the place. The
country around is said to be one of
the most productive in Sweden. The
harbour will only admit small vessels.
Steamers ply daily between this and
Copenhagen, in 2 hours. Fare, Chief
Cabin, 14 d. b. Steamer to Gottenbury on Mondays and Fridays at
5 a.m., calling at Copenhagen, Hel
singborg, Halmstad, Warberg, &e.
Fare to Gottenburg, Chief Cabin, 12
d. b. Steamer to Stockholm every
5 days. Fare, 30 d. b. The steamer
between Lubeck and Copenhagen
also calls here. From Malmo to
Copenhagen by water is only about
16 Eng. m.
Malmo' to Helsingborg.
There is a railway now from Malmo
377
to Lund (see below) : trains, three

times a day each way. Fare, 1st
class, 28 sk. banco.
The distance to Helsingborg by
Lund is 6f Swed. m., or 45 Eng.
The stage is 14 m. from hence to
Lund. See below.
Ystad to Helsingborg.
On leaving Ystad the road all the
way continues through the province
of Malmo. A low range of hills is
crossed during the first stage, and is
kept on the left to the S. W. until, on
the second, it terminates in a hill of
299 feet, called Romele Klint.
EfixrlSf, 2#.
Weberod, J.
Dolby, 1.
f * Lund, 1 . For railway to Mal
mo, see Malmo above. This town is
of high antiquity. It is situated in
a plain of considerable extent, and
about 8 English m. from the Baltic.
The population is nearly 7000, ex
clusive of the students, who generally
number about 500. In the times of
Paganism, Lund was a city of con
siderable commerce, with 80,000 in
habitants. It was then surrounded
with fortifications of wood, and its
warehouses were filled with the booty
in merchandise and gold which the
warlike Scanians had amassed in their
piratical expeditions. Geyer's His
tory of Sweden, p. 22.
In the middle ages Lund was the
seat of an archbishop, who was con
sidered the Primate of the North.
The Scandinavian monarchs, within
whose dominions this part of Sweden
was formerly comprised, were elected
sovereigns of Scania upon the hill of
Stiparebacken, about 4 m. from the
town. Olaf, Queen Margaretta, and
Christina II. appear to be the last
who observed this ceremony.
The chief object of attraction here
is the University, which, with that
at Upsala, are the only ones in Swe
den. In 1474 Christian I. of Den
mark (within whose dominions Scania
378
houte 77. hei.singborg to chribtiania.
was then comprised, made a pilgrim age. to Rome ; and, amongst other
tilings, obtained permission from the
pope to found this university. The
establishment was accordingly opened
with great pomp in June, 147M.
Dunham's Uixt. of Denmark, &c. v.
lit p. i'2. Puffendorf, who, next to
Grotius, is the great authority in
matters of public law, was appointed
Professor of the Law of Nature and
Nations in this University in 1670,
and here, in 1672, he published his
celebrated work " JJe Jure Natural
rt Gentium." The great Linneus was
for some time a pupil here.
The Library contains upwards of
70,000 volumes, besides 1000 manu
scripts, many of which are highly
interesting, particularly the " Necrolotjium Lundense," and " Liber
daticus Lundensis" the oldest origi
nal Danish record existing. There are
several museums. The Historical
is rich in antiquities of Sweden and
Lapland. And so is the Numismatic
Collection in Anglo-Saxon and Roman
coins and medals. The Collections of
Natural History and Mineralogy also
deserve'notice.
Before the Reformation there were
no less than 6 monasteries and 21
churches here. Of the latter there
are now but 2, besides the Cathedral,
which is a large irregular structure,
built at different periods, and said to
have been founded in the 11th or
12th century. In point of size it
ranks next to those of Upsala and
Linktiping.' The organ is considered
the best in Sweden. The pulpit of
alabaster inlaid with marble, and
some of the tombs, reliques, &c, pre
served here deserve notice.
There are several woollen and other
manufactories in the town.
During the war which desolated
the south of Sweden in the time of
Charles XI. and Christian V. of Den
mark, a most sanguinary battle was
fought in the plain a short*distance
N.E. of Lund, 1st 'December, 1676,
Sweden.
in which upwards of 10,000 men

perished. On leaving Lund the stages
are
Kjefiinye, 1J.
Saxturp, 1J.
t * Lakdskrona, j. This is a small
fortified town upon the coast, with a
population of about 3530. It has a
citadel and an excellent harbour.
Steamers to Copenhagen on Wednes
days and Saturdays, at 1 p.m. Most
of the coasting steamers touch here.
From hence the road to Helsingborg keeps close along the coast, com
manding fine views over the Sound,
with Zealand in the distance.
GlumslBf, f.
t Helsingbobg, lj. See Route 77.
ROUTE 77.
HELSINGBORa TO CHRISTIANIA,
THROUGH GOTTENBUBG.
Dist. 52| Swed. and Norsk m. , or
358 Eng.
+ Helsingborg. Hotel Maleborg,
very inferior. There is another house
kept by a woman, which is said to be
better. To Qottenburg, 70 rix d.
Swed. is sufficient for a carriage and
coachman, and pair of post-horses.
This to include the return of the car
riage. The landlord of the Maleborg
will generally purchase a carriole or
carriage of those coming from Nor
way, &c, but of course upon his
own terms. The population is about
3000. There is nothing of interest
here, except the situation of the town
upon the E. coast of the Sound oppo
site Elsineur (Dan. Helsingor), see
Route 10. Steamer to Elsineur, Co
penhagen, Landskrona, ond Malmo,
on Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays,
and Fridays, at 7 A.M. On Satur
days, at 11 a.m. Fares to Copenha
gen, Chief Cabin, 1 d. b. Steamer to
tiuttenburr/, on Mondays and Fridays,
at 1 p.m. Fare, Chief Cabin, 10 d. b.
Sweden,
route 77.helsingboeo to christiakia.
To Lubeck, on Saturdays. Fare, 15

d. b. A Steamer also crosses to
Elsineur every evening, and returns
the following morning. A Diligence
runs from hence twice a week through
Gottenburg to Stockholm ; it reaches
the former on the second day, and the
latter on the seventh.
From Helsingborg to Gottenburg is
22% S. m., or 154 Eng., and the jour
ney occupies about 22 hours. The
road keeps near the coast all the way,
and there is nothing of sufficient in
terest en mate to repay the fatigue
and cost of the journey ; besides
which there is no very good station
on the road. The coast along this
Route is of that rocky character which
prevails throughout almost the entire
extent of the Scandinavian penin
sula : the shore is indented with bays
and fjords ; and sharp-pointed crags,
over which the waves break with
ceaseless roar, run out far from the
mainland into the sea, where their
position is frequently only to be dis
cerned from the foam on the chafed
waters that cover them. Stern and
cheerless, however, as the whole ex
tent of the eastern shore of the Kat
tegat appears, its rocks do not assume
any considerable elevation until we
reach the immediate vicinity of the
fjord of Gottenburg and the com
mencement of the grand mountain
chain which forms the boundary be
tween Sweden and Norway. The
road runs entirely within view of the
sea, in many places actually skirting
the very shore ; but everything in this
part of Sweden is on a small scale
compared with the more stupendous
features of the northern provinces.
The voyage by steamer from Copen
hagen to Gottenburg is much the best
plan; and, in summer, the passages
are usually both rapid and very
agreeable. See also Route 37. The
stages by land are
Fleninye, f.
During this stage the province of
Christianstad is entered.
879
Ekgelholm, 1J. This small town

is celebrated for its manufacture of
gloves.
Maryretetorp, \\.
Upon this stage the road enters the
province of Halmstad, through which
it continues almost all the way to Got
tenburg, and crosses several conside
rable streams.
* Karup, 1J.
From hence there is a direct road
to Stora Tjerby, If. The high road
keeps more inland through Laholm,
1 J . This small town is upon the Laija
Hirer, which is crossed here. Num
bers of salmon are taken in it.
* Stora Tjerby, J.
* Halmstad, 1$. This is a small
town, but the chief of the province,
and has about 2875 inhabitants. It
is close to the coast, upon the right
bank of the Nissa River. It com
mands fine views over the Kattegat
and the entrance to the Sound. This
town is celebrated in Scandinavian
history as being the place where the
Swedish, Norwegian, and Danish
Commissioners, under the Kalmar
Union, met for the purpose of elect
ing their king. Large quantities of
salmon are taken in the Nissa, near
Halmstad.
Qribille; 1\.
S.oinye, 1A.
+ * Falkenbebg, 1J. This little
town is built on the river of the same
name, at its entrance into the Katte
gat. Salmon abounds in this stream.
The water is usually in order by the
end of April, and the fish average
from 7 to 20 lbs. The best part of the
river is private property.
MSrup, lj.
Warbebg, lg. This is another
small town upon the coast, and has
about 1800 inhabitants. The fortress,
which is built upon a promontory of
rock, was formerly a place of con
siderable strength. It is now used
as a prison. Towards the end of the
stage from hence the Wiske River is
crossed. Steamers between Gotten
380
ROUTE 77.
HKLS1SGBORG TO CHRTSTTANIA.
burg and Copenhagen touch here

twice a week each way.
* Backa, 15.
Upon this stage the road crosses the
heads of several of the rocky inden
tations so characteristic of this wild
coast.
Aso, 14.
Kunusbacka, 1J. This is a small
town standing near the head of the
fjord of the same name, and the last
station in the province of Halmstad.
That of Gottenburg is entered shortly
before arriving at
Karra, 2.
The hills gradually assume a bolder
character as the road approaches
Gottenburg (Swed. Goteborg), f.
For Inns, Steamers, &c, see Route
63. From hence to Christiania the
scenery becomes more interesting,
being of a much bolder character,
and, in some places, picturesque.
The dist. from Gottenburg to Chris
tiania is 30 Swed. and Norsk m., or
204 Eng., and those who desire to
visit the magnificent scenery upon the
W. coast of Norway, will do well not
to lose time, but to proceed direct to
Christiania from hence by steamer.
See Route 63 for steamers. Or by
taking Route 78 to Wenersborg, and
from thence proceeding by Route 69
to Uddevalla upon this Route, the
Falls of Trollhattan and of the Glommen may be visited, and the rest of
the journey from Frederikstad to
Christiania be completed by water.
Pursuing the direct route from Got
tenburg, the road leads up the valley
of the Gota to
+ Affnesberg, 1.
Towards the end of this stage the S.,
and soon after the W. , branch of the
Gota River are crossed by ferries to
Konoelf, 1. A very old, but
now a small, town, of about 800 in
habitants. It was formerly a place
of much importance, and the resi
dence of the kings of Norway. It is
memorable in Scandinavian history,
from the frequent Congresses of sove
Sweden.
reigns held here, from which it was

called KungshH.ll. In 1135 it was
almost totally destroyed by the Van
dals, a blow from which it never re
covered, although it continued to be
an occasional residence of the kings of
Norway, so long as that country re
tained her independence. Christian
IV. of Denmark removed the town
to Munkholm, an island in the middle
of the river, close to the old town,
and upon which the ruined Castle of
Bohus now stands. Kongelf has be
longed to Sweden since 1658. Near
the town the Gota River separates
into two branches, the S. flowing by
Gottenburg, and the W. by this town.
The latter contains several islands,
and it is upon one of them that the
ruins of Bohus Castle stand. It
was built in 1308, by King Hako V.
of Norway, and was long considered
the strongest fortress in that country
or Sweden.
the province of Gottenburg all the
way to the Norwegian frontier. Dur
ing the first 3 stages, the road keeps
up the right bank of the Gota River
nearly due N. The range of hills.on
the left are called the Jdnlanda Fjall
or Fjeld.
Almid, 1J.
Buck, 1.
Holm, lg.
From near this station the road
turns off to the N.W.
Asen, If.
During this stage the road at times
skirts part of the Hake Fjord, on the
W., across which is seen the large is
land of Oronst ; and upon the E. a
group of hills commences which ter
minates near Uddevalla.
Grohed, 15. (Direct to Herresta,
li; or by)
Uddevaila,|. This old town has
about 3700 inhabitants. It is situated
at the head of the Haftens Fjord,
and is interesting for the extraordinary
collection of fossil shells. About 2
Eng. m. from hence on the S. shore
Sweden.
route 78. gottenburg to carlstad.
of* the fjord, is Gustafsberg, which is

much frequented in summer, as well
for the beauty of its situation as for
its mineral springs and baths.
Koute 69 turns off here for the
Falls of TrollhtUtan, and Stockholm.
Proceeding to Christiania the road
from hence keeps to the N.W.,
and the hills upon the E. become
bolder.
Herresta, f.
Towards the end of this stage the
road crosses the head of a branch of
the Gullmars Fjord.
Qmstrum, 1.
Smrteberg, 1J.
The range of hills seen upon the
right on this stage is Kynne Fja.ll.
Rabalshede, 1.
Hede, 14.
SkaUerud, 1J.
This station is close upon the coast,
along which runs a belt of small is
lands of rock, most of which are
barren, and give a most desolate but
characteristic air to the scenery about
here.
Wik, I
Eist, 1. (Direct to Hogdal, 1 ; or
by)
Stromstad, f. The population of
this town is about 1400. It is built
on a point of land which runs into a
deep bay of the Skagerrack, and the
general appearance of this coast bears
evidence of the tremendous seas which
prevail during the winter. In summer
this place is much frequented for its
mineral waters and sea bathing. From
hence the scenery becomes more
pleasing.
+ * Hogdal, \\.
This is the last stage upon the
Swedish side. Towards the end of
the stage the deep fjord called Swinesund is crossed, which here forms the
boundary between the two countries ;
and the first station upon the Nor
wegianfrontier is
* Vestgaard, 1$.
From hence to Christiania as in
Route 36.
381
ROUTE 78.
aOTTENBURO TO CARLSTAD BY THE
FALLS OF TROLLHATTAN AND WENKRSBORO.
Di3t. 25 Swed. m., or 170 Eng.

For the Steamers to these places, see
Gottenburg, Route 63. By water the
journey to the Falls of Trollhattan
occupies from 6 to 8 hours, by land
more ; the distance from Gottenburg
is 8 Swed. m., or 54 Eng. A car
riage may readily be hired in Got
tenburg, and horses may soon be had
at all the stations without sending a
Forbud.
The road leads up the left bank of
the Gota River, a great part of the
way to Lilla Edet. During the first
three stages much cultivation is seen ;
after that the scenery becomes of a
wilder character all the way to Troll
hattan, and in some places very pic
turesque. The stages are
+ Agnesberg, 1.
Notd, If.
On this stage the ruins of the
Castle of Bohus are seen across the
river, see Route 77.
Kattleberg, 1.
K'drra, \\.
f * Lilla Edet, \. There is a com
fortable little Inn here close to the
grand fall which the Giita makes at
this place (see Route 63). The first
stage from hence is through pine
forests, and hilly ground with fine
masses of granite, and towards the
next station a magnificent view opens
Tip.
Fors, 1.
Gerdhem, 1.
The road turns off here to the
S.W., and runs over a poor and flat
country to * Trollhattan, 1 m. There
is a most comfortable Inn here, close
to the falls, and the charges, like
those at Lilla Edet, are very moderate.
See Route 63 for description of the
Falls. From hence there is a road to
noUTE 78. GOTTEN burg to carlstad.

Wenersborg, 1J m. Proceeding by
the direct route from the fcterdhem
station, as above, the next is
t* Wenersborg, lj. See Ronte
63. Here Route 69, between Stock
holm and Christiania, is also joined.
between Wenersborg and Carlstad
the road keeps near the Wenern Lake
great part of the way, and along the
N.W. side of it ; the country is
thickly wooded in most parts, and fine
views of the lake are obtained ; but
upon the whole the scenery is too flat
and monotonous to be very pleasing.
The chief attractions upon this part of
the Route are the fishing to be had in
the lake, and the shooting in the ad
joining woods. In some places there
are also extensive beds of rushes
upon the sides of the lake which
abound in wild fowl. The stages
are
Jhjkalla, 1J.
Oiterbyn, 1.
Upon this stage the Dalbergs River
is crossed.
Mellerud, If.
From hence to the next station the
Sweden.
road is mostly close along the shore' of

the Wenern, with numerous small
lakes upon the W.
Lund, 1{.
Torpane, If.
Amal, 1^. This town is upon the
shore of the Wenern, and has about
1400 inhabitants. Its chief support
is the traffic carried on upon the lake.
Shortly before reaching the next sta
tion the province of Carlstad is en
tered.
Afvehater, 1.
Upon this stage the By River is
crossed.
Giistafskrogen, 1.
Maloja, lj.
From hence the road keeps along a
branch of the lake for some distance,
then crosses it, and soon after takes
a N.E. course and crosses the Nors
River near
LiUnor, 1|.
Here the road turns off nearly S. E.
to
+ * Carlstad, 14. See Route 67,
which is joined here.
INDEX TO ROUTES
IK
DENMAEK, NOEWAY, AND SWEDEN.
AABEL.
A.
Aabel, 204
Aabenraa, 67
Aakhuua, 205
Aalboe, 246
Aalborg, 87
Aalesund, 210, 235
Aalgaard, 206
Aalting, 207
Aarrtals Fjord, 175
Aarfor, 221
Aargaard, 236
Aarhuus, 84
Aarosund, 67
Aasen,212
Aberdeen, 88
Aborre Bierg, 75 1
Aby, 374
Abyn, 362
Aeland's, Sir Tbomas, ac
count of Sneehcetten , 245
Êdo, 235
Afva, 361
Afvelsater, 382
Agershuus, Castle of, 162
Agnesberg, 369, 380, 381
Ahlsta, 359
Ahus. 376
/.ix-la-Chapelle, 54
Akre, 259
Aland Islands, 364
Alem, 375
Alfarnces, 257
Alfta, 346
c 371
Alingsas,
Allebek, 83
Almas, 369
Almid, 380
Alsensjon, 360
Alsike, 357
Altar-piece at Borre, 75
Alteidet, 226
Alten.Copper
River, 226,
Works,
267 226
to Tomea in winter,
264
Alten to Tornea in summer,

265
Altona,25;
Tomb of Klopstock, 26; Bauer's Gar
dens, 26; Railroad, 26
Alvestrommen, 209
Amak, Isle of, 32
Amal, 382
Amsterdam, 58
Amten Lake, 368
Andersby, 341
AnderstOf, 377
Andvord, 241
Angelstad, 204
Angerman River, 361
Angersjo, 362
Angvik, 212
Antiquities, Copenhagen,3G,
40
Christiania, 166
Stockholm, 324
Lund, 378
Antwerp, 56
Apelstoen, 1!,9
Apenrade, 67
Arboga, 365
to Orebro, 365
Arctic Circle, 222
Are River, 36(1
Areda, 373, 375
Arendal,
233
Areskutan204,
Mountains,
360
Arfuet, 346
Arnheim, 58
Arresoe, the, 78
Arset, 374
Arvika, 367
Asa, 380
Asarum, 376
Asen, 380
Ashult,373, 376
Askersund, 351
Askja,
Asnen 361
Lake, 373
Aspen Lake, 371
Assens, 68
Asser Ryg, 69
Astorp, 372
Asunden Lake, 371
BEKGER.
Atlestad, 208
Atorp, 366
Aurlands Fjord, 176
Aurora borealis, Mr. Eve
rest's account of the, 229
Austa River, 259
Austad, 259
Avasaxa, 272, 363
Averoen, 211
Ax,berg, 365
B.
Baadsenden, the, 255
BaadstS, 240
Baads Vand, 206
Back, 380
Backa, 380
Backasand, 371
Bamble, 195, 109
Bandags Vand, 199
Bangsund, 215
Bankeberg, 371
Bareberg, 368
Barkarby, 364
Bamarp, 372
Barretskov, 86
Basaltic caverns of Stappen,
91
Bath, Russian, 270
Baver Elv, 280
Bear-shooting, 134, 172, 256
Beina Elv, 169
Bejan, 235
Beldringe, 76
Bensjord, 225
Berg, 261,358
Bergan, 194
Berge, 199, 360
Bergedorf, 60
Bergen, 182; Churches, 184;
Art Union, 185; Museum,
185; Theatre, 186; Trade,
186; Joegts, 186; Shops,
187 ; Watermen, 187 ;
Moming stars, 187 ; En
virons, 188; Excursions to
Sdgne and Hardanger
Fjords, 188 ; Steamers,235
Bergen to Molde, 208
Berger i Elverum, 259, 262
884
DENMARK, -NORWAY, SWEDEN.
BEROS.ST.
BergiaH, 259
Bergviken Lake, 358
Berlin,to334Stettin, 334
Bernadotte, 214, 252, 366
Bierkager, 212, 246
Bindals Fjord, 221
Birkrein, 206
Bjerke, 255
Bjiiberg, 190
BjOlstad,
241 191
Bjorndalen,
Bjdrnedals Elv, 197
BjOrneraa, 2(5
Bjorne Fjord, 208
Bjorngaard , 213
Biornstad, 241,259
BjOrsater, 368
Bjuggsta, 365
Blaamandf Fjeld, 223
Blacksta, 367
Blaker, 278, 280
to Laurgaard, 280
to Romsdalen, 280
Bla.i 375
Bleyer, 188
Blilid, 253
Blodekja-r, 204
Bo, 373
Bockelholm, 101
Bodahamm, 375
Boila, 222
Boekken, 212, 235
Boekkerviscn, 207
Brekkevold, 259
Bceroen, 224
Bogen, 201
Bogesund, 371
Bogstad, 165
Bonus, ruins of the Castle
of, 355, 380
Bolandet, 342
Biile, 346
Bolgen, 211,
Bolkesjii,
195257
Boiler, 85
Bolsctll, 212
Bolstadoren, 181
Bona, 374
Bondhuus, 180, 188
Bordsted, 368
Boren Lake, 350
Borggardet, 344
Borgholm, 316, 375
Borgsjobyn, 359
Borgund, Church of, 172
Bornholm, Island of, 315
Borre, 75, 202
Cliffs at, 75
Borregaard, 275
Borts Vand, 200
Bosekop, 226, 236
Bosnuten, 197
Botten, 205
Braeke, 359
Bra?kke, 204
Brondhaugen, 243
Brtenna,
274 33659, 336
Brahe, Ebba,
Tycho,
Bransmala, 374
Braskerud,259, 262
Braviken, Bay of, 370, 374
Bregentved, 76Castle of, 65
Breitenburg,
Breivik, 205
Bremanger,Miss,
235 legend of
Bremer's,
the Marie Stien, 196
Bremund Elv, 255
Bressay, 89
Breum Vand, 209
Brevig,
204 169
Bridges, 193,
Norwegian,
Bringsta, 359
Bringsvcerd, 204
Brink, 370
Bro, 359
Broange, 362
Broby, 373, 374
Broke Fjeld, 199
Broms, 375
Brosarp, 373, 376
Brfjsta, 361
BrSste Fjeld, 256
Brottby, 364
Brufladt, 169
Bruges, 53
Brummen Vand, 191
Brunnbitck, 342
Brunswick,death
333 of the duke
of, 26
Bruserod, 202, 274
Bryggen, 235
Bubbetorp, 376
Buchen, 60
Bukke Fjord, 207
Bukken, 207. 235
Burea, 362
Buskaka, 345
By River, 382
Byarum, 372
Bye, 212 ,
Elv, 367
Bygden Vand, 170, 241
Bygholin, 85
Bygland Fjord, 205
Bykle, 20O, 205
Byske, 362
C.
Canals, Sleswig and Holstein,Swedish,
28
312
Oota, 347
Ost Gota, 350
West Gota, 352
Carls Graf, 353
Hjelmare, 365
Carlshamm, 376
Carlshuus, 274
Carlskroua, 374, 375, 376
Carlstad, 366
Carlyle, Mr., on the North
Cape, 230
Caroline Matilda, Queen,
79, 81
Cathedrals and Churches
Index.
CCXHAVEN.
Hamburg, 22; Copen
hagen, 45; Ghent, 53;
Malines, 53; Liege, 54;
Cologne, 55; Antwerp,
56; Lubeck, 61 ; Sleswig,
66; Odense, 68; Roeskilde, 71; Svendborg, 72;
Marieboe, 73; Elsineur,
81 ; Aarhuus, 84; Ribe,
86; Kirkwall, 88; Reikjavik, 90; Borgund, 172;
Hitterdal, 198; Stavanger,
234; Stor Hammer, 238;
Trondhjem, 249; Kalnmr,
316; Wisby, 317; Stock
holm, 325; Upsala, 337;
Vretakloster, 350; Westeras, 365; Linkdping,
370; Lund, 378
Charles X.,302
Charles XII., 275, 277, 326
Charlottenlund, 51
Christiania, 159; Routes
to, 157 ; Kiel to, 157 ;
Fjord, 158; Inns, 159;
Post Office, 159; Money,
159; University, 160; Col
lection of Northern Anti
quities, 160 ; National
Gallery, 161 ; Theatre,
161 ; Castle of Agershuus,
162 ; Steamboat Office,
163; Passport Office, 163;
Shops, 163; Carriages,
163 ; Environs, 164 ;
Steamers, 166
Christiania to Sarpfos, 166
to Christiansand,
202, 233
Christiansand, 205, 234
to Stavanger, 205
Christiansfeldt, 67
Chrislianstad, 373, 37G
Christiansund, 211, 235
Christinehamm, 366
Cimbritshamm, 376
Cod fishery, 223
Codex Argenteus,338
Aureus, 324
Cologne, 54
Convent at Preerz, GO
Copenhagen, 30 ; Post Office,
30; Days for seeing Col
lections, 31; Market, 34;
Palace of Christiansborg,
34; Royal Collection of
Pictures, 35; Museums,
36, 40, 43 ; Royal Library,
37 ; Arsenal, 37; Castle of
Rosenberg, 37 ; Money
and Medallion Cabinet,
39 ; University, 42 ;
Churches, 45; Hospitals,
47 ; Theatres, 48; Statues,
48; Royal China Manu
factory, 49; Cemeteries,
49, 51 ; Public convey
ances, 50 ; Steamers, 50 ;
Environs, 51
Cuxhaven, 18
Index.
DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN.
BAOLOSTEN.
D.
Dagl5sten, 362
Dahl, 236
*
Dal, 195
to Kongsberg, 196
to Bergen,
Dal Elv,
17(1 197
Dal River, 342, 358
Dala, 374
Dalbergs Elv, 3(12
Dalbo Sjon, 353
Dalby, 377
Dale, 181
Dale Fjord, 209
Dalecarlia, 342
Dalseidet, 181
Danemora, the Iron Mines
of, 341
Dannevirke, 66
Degeberga, 373
Denmark, 1 ; Routes from
England, 1 ; Money,
Weights, and Measures,
2; Language, 2; Pass
ports, 2; Roads, Posting,
3 ; Railroads, 5 ; Steamers,
5; Inns, 5; Rivers, 6;
Features of the country,
7 ; Heaths, 7 ; Forests, 8 ;
Sandhills, 8; Islands, 9;
Marshes, 10; Royal Fa
mily, 11; Population, 12;
Finance, 12; Army and
Navy, 12; Historical No
tice, 12; New Constitu
tion, 15 ; Productive In
dustry, 16; People, 10;
Peasantry, 17; Public In
struction, 17
Deutz, 55
Dihult, 373
Dillingen, 274
Djekneboda, 362
Docksta, 361
Dokke Elv, 169
Dokkenhuden, 26
Dombaas, 243
Donnces, 222
Glacier at, 222
Ddrarp, 372
Dorby, 375
Dorfgarten, 28
Dosen, 278
Dovre Fjeld, 243
Drammen, 193
Drivstuen, 246
Drobak, 202, 233, 274
Dronningstolen, 75
Dronnings Udsigt, 167
Drontheim (seeTrondhjem)
Drottningholm, 331
Dunserud, 191
Dusseldorf, 55
Dustembroek, 28
Dvcemces, 257
Dykalla, 382
Dylta, 365
DyngB, 233
Dypvik, 224
E.
Ebeltoft, 87
Edenryd, 376
Edsberg Sauna, 366
Edsby, 346
Efverlof,377
Egersund, 206, 234
Egge, 194
Eggedals Fjeld, 191
Eggelykke, 73
Egsund, 235
Eld, 20!)
Eid Fjord, 178
Eide, 211, 257
Eider duck, habits of the,
257
Eidre Vand, 190
Eidsvold, 169, 189, 236, 237
1
Constitution House
at, 237
Eina Lake, 253
Einstuga, 346
Eist, 381
Ekebergskulla, 376
Eklanda, 371
Ekre, 171, 190
Eksag, 365
Eksjo, 374
Elaren Lake, 372
Elden,215
Elfdal, 345 ; Royal Porphyry
Manufactory, 345
to Tomea and Trondhjem, 346
Elfsborg, fortress of, 536
Elliott, Mr., on Tellemarken, 199
Elmhult, 373
Elmshorn, 65
Elsineur, 80; Sound Duties,
82 ; Steamers,
83
Elstad,
240
Emmeboda, 376
Emmerich, 58
Enebacken, 368
Engelholm, 379
Engclsholm, 86
Engen, 259
Enger, 168, 193
Engersund, 207
Eiigestofte, 73
Enkoping, 365
Ensta, 364
c 376
Eriksmala,
Eranas, 362
Erye Elv, 240
Esrom Lake, 79, 80
Espedal's Iron Works, 241
Etnedals Elv, 169
Etnesoen, 207
Evanger, 181
Everest, Mr., on Kongsberg,
194
on the Aurora
Borealis, 229
Eyanpaika, the rapids of,
271
Eye, 206
385
FOLIlfG.
F.
Fagerhult, 372
Fahret, 205, 206
Faleidet, 175, 209
Falkenbeig, 379
Falster, Island of, 74
Falun, 342
toGefle, 344
to Elfdal, 344
Fanbyn, 360
Fandrem, 212
Fanebust, 209
Fangberget, 255
Fanne Fjord, 211, 257
Fare Elv, 254
Farjestaden, 374
Faroe Islands, 89
Farsund, 206, 234
Farvolden, 194
Faxelven, 360
Fede, 206
Fede Fjord, 206
Fedjos, 176
Feigum Fos, 278
Fellingsbro, 365
Fern Soe, 277
Ferle, 366
Fettings, 375
I'ieldoen, 207
Fienneslov, 70
Fikke, 224
Kille Fjeld, 171
Findoe, 207
Finkroken, 225
Finneback, 367
Finne-fos, 360
Finve, 221
Fiskum Fos, 215
Fittja, 365, 369
Fjal, 361
Fjserestrand, 194
Fjelkinge, 376
Fjerdingsta, 374
Fiaae, 246
Fladmark, 256
Flatlsat, 257
Flad SjO, 199
Flsekke, 209
Flagan Lake, 367
Flage, 180
Flagstad Elv, 255
Flagstadt, Island of, 221
Klekkefjord, 206, 234
Flemhuder Lake, 100
Fleninge, 379
Flensborg, 67
Flodals Elv, 199
Floroen, 235
Flottbek, 26
Fcerdcer, 158
Fogs Aae, 243
Fokstuen, 243
Folda Elv, 243, 244
Foldalen, 259
Folden Fjord, 215, 221
Foldereid, 221
Folgefond, Glacier of the,
180, 201
1
Fol-eroen, 207
FBling,415
386
FOLSKLANK.
Folseland, 195
Forbord ,213
Fordc, 2IKI
Forde FJoid, 209
Forresvig, 207
Fori, 381
FoiMrth, 211
Forau, 360
Forlun, l'7!)
Forvik, 222
Fosland, 215
Frankleklint, 73
Frcdensborg, Palace of, 80
Fredcricstadt, lul
Frederiksborg, Palace of, 78
Frederiksdal, 73
Frederikshald , 2/6
Frederikshavn, 87
Frederikstad, 275
Frederiksteen, Fortress of,
276
Frederiksund, 77
Frederiksvccrk, 78
Frcderlksvoern, 203, 233
Fredo, 211
Frengstuen. 255
Fresvig, 176
Fritlo Iron Works, 231
Frogner, 238, 255
Frogneiaasen, 164
Proisiifps, 205
Fronningen, 177
Fr6stkage, 362
Frovi, 305
Frydenlund, 169
Fuglestad, 206
Fuhr, 376
Funen, Island of, 72
Fursteth, 257
Fumdals bruk, 346
Fuse, 208
Fyldpaa, 202,274
G.
Gaabensee, 74
C.aasctaarn, 74
Gilddvik, 362
Galdho-piggen, 174, 241
Galten, 194
Gamleby Viken, 374
Cangbro, 345
Gangenoss, 207
(iarberg, 212, 345, 346
Garde, 360
Garder, 261
GardmO, 241
Garlid, 246, 260
Garnoes,
o 345182, 263
Garsas,
Garsjoe, 254
Gaustad, 258
Gautetun, 205
Gefle, 344, 358
to Sundsvall, 358
Gerdhem, 381
Gerrestad Lake, 204
Getterum, 375
Geysers, the, 95
Ghent, 53
(iibostad, 224
GideS lliver, 361
GidskOe, Ruins at, 210
Gielleboak, 199
Gimnass, 211, 257
Gisselfeldt, Abbey of, 76
Gjelten, 259
Gjcndin Vand, 241
Gjermundshavn, 201
Gjolstad Sund, 259
GjOra i Sundal, 246
Gjfivig, 189, 254
Glan Lake, 370
Glanshammar, 366
Glittertind, 241
Glommen River, 258, 259,
261, 273
Glosbo, 346
Glum6l5f, 378
Godtland, 215
Gool, 190
Gota Canal, 347, 349
Giita River, 354, 381
Gottasa, 373
Gottenburg, 355, 369, 380;
Inns, 355; Post office,
355; Steamboat office,
355; Money, 355 ; Ser
vants, 355; Churches,
356; Environs, 356; Ce
metery, 356 ; Steamers,
357 ; Carriages, 357
Gottland, Island of, 316,
375
Gottorf, Castle of, 66
Gousta Fjeld, 167, 197
Graaryg, 75
Grada, 342
Gramm, 189
Gran, 365
Grastorp, 368, 369
Graven, 178
GravOrne, 246
Greiffeufeld, Count, 85, 203,
252
Grenna, 371
GrimnSs, 300
Grimsbo, 259
Grimsmark, 362
Grimstad, 204, 234
Grinagermarken, 168
Grintorp, 374
Gripsholm, 332
Grisselhamm, 364
Grodaas, 210
Grodt, 261
Grohed, 380
Giiinnen, 254
Gronndal, 200
Gronsund, 74, 75
Grorud, 236
Grotius, Hugo, 26
GrOto, 235
Grudt, 246
Grundseth, 258, 262
Grunge EIv, 200
Grytestuen, 254
Gryttje,
359 239
Gudbrandsdal,
Index.
HARBURO.
Gudvangen, 177
Gugaard, 200
Gula Elv, 212, 247, 261
Guldholmen, 227
Gulltmedsmoen, 205
Gullercd, 371
Gulsvig, 191
Gumboda, 302
Gumdal, 212
Gurre Lake, 80
Gustafskrogen, 382
Gustavus Adolphua, 302
Gustavus Wasa, 301, 337,
344, 345
H.
Haagences, 195
Haalangen Fjeld, 242, 280
Haar, 207
Haarlem, 58
Haarstad, 246
Haarteigen Mountains, 198
Hadersleben, Haderslev, 67
Hseg, Elv,
172, 259
190
Haft
Haga, 190, :M>7
Haggsjo, 361
Hagna, 371
Hague, the, 58
Hakambo, 341
Hakleklint, 353
Halgbo, 344
Hall, 364
Halleberget, 353, 369
Hallerud, 194
Halligs, The, 9
Ilallingdal, 190
Halmstad, 379
Hals Fjord, 212
Hamburg, 19, 281; Hotels,
19; Money, 20; Fire in
1842, 21 ; Churches, 22 ;
Johanneum, 22; Chari
table Institutions, 22; Ex
change, 22 ; Funeral Pro
cessions, 23 ; Theatre, 23 ;
Public Amusements, 23;
Jungfernstieg, 23; Con
suls, 24 ; Steamboats, 24 ;
Railroads, 24; Public
Walks, 25; Environs,. 25
Hamlet, Saxo Grammaticus'
account of, 82
Hammer, 213, 215
Hammeren, 254
Hammerfcst, 228, 236
to the North
Cape, 229
Hamneda, 372
Hamremoen, 191
Hanestad, 262
Hanover, 55
Hanseatic League, 60, 62
Haparanda, 2?2, 363
Harald Haarfager, burialplace of, 207
Haraldstad, 275
Harblek, 101
Harburg, 56
Index.
HARDAMBR FJORD.
Hardanger Fjord, 180, SOI
Hardenberg, Castle of, 74
Hareid, 235
Harfsla, 342
Hasseloen, 74
HasslerOr, 368
Haste, 360
Histeryd, 376
Hatvigen, 180, 208
Haug, 259
Haugan, 213, 215
Hauge, 206
Haugen, 210
Haugesund, 207 , 235
Haugsund, 191, 193
Haukerdd, 203
Havn, 235
Havnik, 224
HavOsund, 229, 231
Havstad, 209
Hecla, Mount, 93
Hedals Elv, 241
Hede, 381
Hedemora, 342, 345
Heden, 346
Hegeland, 205
Hegnoesgavl, ruins of, 67
Hegrestad, 207
Heulkug, 59
Heldal, 182
Helfos, 205, 234
Helga Lake, 373
Helge Lake, 373
Helgedal, 170
Helgeo, ruins at, 238
Helgeraaen, 203
Heligoland, 18
Helle, 213
Helleland, 201
Hellcsylt, 210
Heliingsgaard, 211, 256
Helnoes, 224
Helsingborg, 80, 372, 378
Helstad, 210
Helvigen, 208
Hemsedal Elv, 190
Henoug, 261
HemOsand, 361
Herresta, 373, 376, 331
Herrskog, 361
Hester, 374
Hestmands-Oen, 222
Hilclal, 200
Hillerod, 79
Himmebjerg, 85
Hitterdal, Church of, 198
Vand, 198
Hitteren, Island of, 212, 253
Hjelmare Lake, 366
Hjerdals Elv, 198
Hjorring, 87
Hoaas, 246
Hobberstad, 207
Hobro, 87
Hoby, 376
Hof, 238
Hoff, 168, 280
Hofva, 308
Httjbo, 344
Hogboda, 367
Hflgdal, 277, 381
Hogsta, 358
Hogvalta, 367
Holager, 256
Holger Danske, legend of,
81
Helleland,
207
Holm, 101, 380
Holme, 214
Holmen, 239
Holmestrand, 202
Holmrvdningen, 259, 261
Holseth, 256, 280
Hols Fjord, 168, 193
Holstein, 26
Holte, 204Insurrection, 15
Holten, 212
Holy Anders, legend of, 69
Homo, 215
Homsmoen, 205
HOne-fos, 168, 191, 194
Honstad, 212
Hopseidet, 227
Horjem, 256
HOrnas, 361
Hornbek, 83
Hornelen Cliff, 235
Homingdals Vand , 210
Hornvigen, 229
tforsens, 85
Horten , 202, 233, 274
Horungerne Mountains, 279
Horvig, 209
Hostlebro, 86
Hot Springs of Iceland, 95
Houglifjeld, 200
Hov, 247, 261
Hove, 213, 262
Hoyland, the robber, 162
Hudiksvall, 359
Hugakollen, 170
Humlestad, 204
Hund, 215
Hund Elv, 254
Hundven, 209
Hunncberget, 353
Hunne-fos, 239
Hurdals River, 254
Vand, 254
Husby, 341
Huse, 201, 208
Husum, 101, 173
Husum i Ovre Foldalcn, 259
Hverled, 368
Hvetlanda,374, 376
Hvilan, 363
Hyls Fjord, 200
I.
lbs, St., Church of, 85
Iceland, 90
Idde Fjord, 276
Idstedt, battle of, 66
Iggesund, 359
Illberg, 367
Imse Elv, 259
Indals River, 361
Indvig Fjord, 209
Innertafle, 362
Innervik, 362
Isdaal, 209
387
KEEL-FOS.
Ishult, 375
Isla, 344
Islands Danish, 72: Ork.
neys, 88 j Shetland, 89FarSe, 89; LofToden, 220,
223 i Swedish, 316; Aland,
364
Isse Fjord, 257
Itzehoe, 65
J.
Jader, 370, 374
Jsegerspriis, 78
Jafre, 362
Jamsgaard, 200
Jamt Krogen, 359
Jardbluelv,222
Jarlsberg, 203
Jedeckejaure Lake, 269
Jellinge, 86
Remarkable stones
at, 86
JelsOe-stranden, 207
JemjO, 375
Jemserum, 375
Jerkin, 243, 259
Johannesberg, ruins of, 370
Johnsrud, 167
JondalBoren, 201
JonkOping,371, 372
Jonsdal Elv, 195
Jonskunden, 193
Jordbraekke, 205
Jotumfjeld, 170
Judeberget, 207
Jueliinge, 73
Jukasjervi, 272
Jusjon Lake, 345
Juskengis, 272
Justerial, Glaciers of the.
174, 209
Routes from,
Jutland, 83
K.
Kaaberbergs Elv, 19
Kaagoe, Glacier of, 228
Kalix River, 363
Kallangen, 368
Kallby, Church of, 368
Kallehave, 75
Kallunborg, 88
Kalmar, 316, 375
Union of, 13,
Kale, Island of, 84
Kalstad, 212, 246
Kam Elv, 273
Karasjok, 227, 269
Karby, 375
Kardis, 272
Karesuando, 269
KarlsO, 226
Karra, 380, 381
Karup, 379
Kattegat, 158
Kattleberg, 381
Kautokeino, 2G8
Keel-fos, 177
388
KKXISYARA.
Kexisvara, 271
Kiel, 87; Public Buildings,
->; Palace (iaiden, 28;
Environs, 28 ; Steamers,
29
to Christiania. 157
to Copenhagen , 29
Kile Fjord, 205
KilstrAmmen, 2(19
Kinback. 362
Kinne Kulle, mountain of,
353, 368
KiBge, 76
Kirkebn, 170
Kirkvoid, 26
Kirkwall, 88
Kjwr, 202
Kjalsta, 359
Kjerlinge, 378
Kjelvik, 227, 229, 231
KjcrringA, 224
Kjosebunden, 210
Kjulsta, 365
Klaekken,168
Klampenborg, 52
Klar Elv, 262, 366
Klefshult. 372
Klethammer, 246
Kleven, 234
Klinga, 349
Klintehamm, 375
Klintholm, 75
KlOften, 236
Klokkerstuen, 202
Klorup, 377
Knappekulla, 374
KnugsBr, 365
Knuthenbnrg, 73
Kobberdal, 2i2
Kobbervig, 207,235
Kogs, 10
Kolare, 271
Kolback, 365
Kolding, 67, 86
Kolfv a, 342
Kolstad, 375
Komtilmolta, 345
Kongelf, 38(1
Kongens Udsigt, 167
Kongsberg, 193
- to the Rhikanfos, 194
-toSkien, 193
Kongsgaard, 86
Kongsgarden, 359
Kongsvinger, 261, 273
Kongsvold, 245
Raping, 365
Kopsland, 195
Korpikulai 272
Korsegaarden , 274
Korsodegaarden, 255
KOrsor, 69
Koster, 75
Kosthveit, 197
Kostol,205
Krabberod, 275
Krsemmerl'akken, 253, 254
KragerO, 204, 233
Kragsta, 364
Kraketorp, 374
Kringelen, 241
KroRklevcn.167
Krok^k, 370
Krona, 191
Kronborg, Castle of, 81
KrOren Fjord, 191
Kukholla. 272
Kullen, 83
Kulleryd, 376
Kumla, 365, 370
Kungsbacka, 380
Kvaenangen Fjord, 226
K valoe, 228
KvaW. 225
Kvandesvold, 280
Kyllingstad, 206
L.
Laby, 358
Ladne-jaure, 267
Laga River, 372, 37
Lageland, 176
Laggata, 365
Laholm, 379
Laing, Mr., on Norway, 213
Lakes Bandagsvand, 199 ;
Midsen, 237 , Oresund,
260; Oyeren, 261 ; Malar,
335,
Roxen,34(1;350; Siljan,
Boren, 345;
350;
Wettem, 351 ; Viken,351 ;
Wenern, 352; Wassbotten, 353; Rafsunds, 359;
Liten Lake, 360
Landskrona, 378
Landvig, 204
LangbaKke, 273
Langeeid, 205
Langeland, 73, 209
Langerak, 205
Langesund, 204, 233
Lang Fjord, 226, 257
Langledet, 261
Langoe, Island of, 204
Langseth, 212
Lanner, 203
Lapland, 361
Laplanders, Mr. Milford's
\isit to the, 216
Dress of, 264
Mode of travel
ling, 265
Lapp Encampments, 223,
225
Larbrii-fos, 194
Larsntes, 235
Laurgaard, 249
Laurvig, 203, 233
Lauven River, 193, 233
Lecke Slott, 353
Ledhester, 371
Leegaardslyst, 85
Leer, 247
Leervig,
209 171
LeirdalsElv,
LeirdaUdren, 173
to Bergen, 176, 208
Lekd, Island of, 221
Index.
Lrknces. 207
Leksand, 345
to Hedemora, 345
Lenhofda, 376
l.erohl , :167
Lorum, 371
Lervig, 235
Lerwick, 89
Lesje Jernvrerk, 2.56
Vand.
Levanger,
213243, 256
I.evar, 362
Leyden, 58
LibrariesKiel, 28; Copen
hagen, 37; Stockholm,
323; Skokloster,337; Uppala, 33R; Western, 365;
LlnkOping, 370 ; Wexto,
373 ; Lund. 378
Lidar River, 368
Lidkping,368
Lie Fjeld, 199
Liege, 54
Lier Elv, 193
Lierfossen, 252
Lilla Abv, 370
Lilla Ede't, 354,381
Lillefloren, 213
Lillehainmer, 238, 254
l.illehove, 240
Lillesan I, 204, 234
Lillestuen, 199
Lillnor, 382
Lind, Jenny, 328
Lindaas, 209
LrnkOpmg, 350, 37
Linnaeus, 337
Liselund, 75
Litslena, 3(i5
Liten Lake, 360
Ljaen, 210
Ljung, 371
Ljungby, 372
Ljusne River, 358
LofToden Islands, 220, 223
l.efsta, 341
Logbierget, 75
Logen Elv, 238
Lolland (Lalandi, Island of,
73
Lomb, 241
Fjeld, 279
Longrei, 178
Lansret, 211
Loppeli, 228
Losna, 240
Losnces, 240
Louvain, 53
Lovaasen, 259, 261
LOvB, 224
Lubeck, 60; Money, 60;
Cathedral, 61 ; Churches,
61; Clock, 62; Haathaus,
62; Trade, 63; Steamers,
64
Lulea, 362
to Haparanda, 362
LUm Fjord, 87
Lumsheden, 344
Lund, 377; Railway to Mai
Index.
Mesne Vand, 255

Messelt, 259
Middelfart, 67
Midland, 206
Miler, 9
Minde, 237, 255
Minden, 55
MinesKongsberg, 194 ;
Valle, 199, 205; Alten,
226; Roraas, 2611; Danemora, 341 ; Sala, 342 ;
Falun, 343
MiOsen Lake, 237
Mjelby, 371, 373
MjOren Lake, 371
Mjos Vand, 170, 197
MOckeln Lake, 373
Moe, 209, 212, 260
Moe Elv, 255
Moen, 195
Moen, Island of, 75
Mai,
205
If.
Meklebye, 259
Molde,
211, 257
Maan
Elv, 195197, 199
to Trondhjem, 211
Madandsmo,
Moldcstad,
209
Maelstrom, 220
Molmen,
256
Maeraker Hytte, 213
Mo-Myskie, 346, 358
Magdeburg, 334
MoneyDanish, 2 ; Ham
Mageroe, 229
burg, 20; Belgian, 52;
Maglevands Valley, 75
Prussian, 54; Hanoverian,
Magnord, 274, 367
55; Dutch, 57; Lubeck,
Mai, 359
60 ; Norwegian, 103 ; SweMalangen Fjord, 224
dish, 283
Malar Lake, 335, 348
Mons Elv,o 224
Malby, 308
MOnsteras, 375
Malines (Mechlin), 53
Mora Noret, 345
Malniby, 365
Mora stone, the, 340
Malma, 377
Morang Fjord, 180
to Helsingborg, 377 Morast,
274, 367
.Maliiga,to382Lund, 377
Morstu, 255
MOrup, 379
Malsta,359
Mosby, 205
Mandal, 206
Mo.-gaard, 84
Mansbyn, 363
Moshuus, 239
Margaret, Queen, Monu Moskenres,
220
ment of, 71
Moss,
233, 274
Margretetorp, 379
Mossebo,
199
Maneboe, 73
Mossoe, 85
Marienlyst, 82
Mosterhavn, 207, 235
Mariestad, 352, 368
Motala, 350
Mariestuen, 172
MountainsGousta Fjeld,
Mariosara, 272
167,195, 197; Jotum Fjeld,
Markaryd, 372
170; Hugakollen,170; Fille
Marklunda, 373
Fjeld,
171; Skagstoltind ,
Mari Stien, legend of, 196
174,241,278; Gaidho-pigMarinan Lake, 358
gen,
174,
Justedal,
Marsellisseborg, the wood 174, 209; 241;
Lodals Kaabe,
of, 84
174;
Normands-jokeln,
Marsta, 357
179; Skogshorn, l!0; EgMarstrand, 356
gedals Field, 191; TesMasi, ruined church of, 268
sung
Fjeld, 197; HaarteiMatarengi, 272, 363
en, 198; Lie Fjeld, 199;
Matkull. 373
roke
Fjeld, 199 ; HougltMattre Fjord, 207
fjeld, 200; Solfond Nup,
Meelhuus, 247
200;
Steens
Fjeld, 209;
Mehede, 358
Lang Fjeld, 209; Skole,
Melby, 259
211;
Seven
Sisters,
222;
Meldorf, 27
Sulitjelma, 223; GlitterMellan Lake, 367
tind,
241;
Rundane,
242;
Mellerud, 382
Haalangen Fjeld, 242;
Mem, 349
Dovre Fjeld, 243; SneeLUND.
mo, 377; University,^77 ;
Library, 378; Cathedral,
378 ; Battle near, 378
Lund, 36.5, 375, 382
Lunde, 206
Lundesogna Elv, 247
Lundsoeter, 260
Lurosfl, 222
Lyckeby, 375
Lvngdals Elv, 206
Lynge Vand, 206
Lyngen Fjord, 225
Lyngholmen, 207
LyngOer, 233
Lyster Fjord, 174
Lysthuus, 193, 198
389
NORDRK BOLSTAD.
hoetten, 244; Broste Fjeld,
256; Roinsdals Horn,
250 ; Trolltiuderne, 256 ;
Tron Fjeld, 259, 262;
Nuppi Vara, 266 ; Sogne
Fjeld, 278; Horuneeme
Mountains, 279; Lomb
Fjeld, 279; Kinne Kulle,
353, 368 ; Areskutan, 360
Moxa Elv, 240
Munktsten, 369
Munkholm, Fortress of, 2'2
Muonio River, 270
Rapids, 271
Muonioniska, 270
MuseumsHamburg, 23;
Kiel, 28; Copenhagen, 36,
40, 43; Bergen, 185;
Trondhjem, 251; Stock
holm, 322, 327
Mustad, 169, 189
Mydtlysne, 1/3
Myggences-holm, 90
Myklemyr, 174
N.
Naeraens Fjord, 177
Najrstrands Fjord, 207
Naes, 191 , 259, 63
Na=s i Grue, 261
Nrcsbvhoved, Castle of, 68
Na?se, 209
Njeverdal, 260
Nakskov, 73
NalsOe, 90
NamlOs, 194
Namsen River, 215
NamsOs, 215, 235
Nasbyn, 363
Nasland, 361
Neby, 2S, m
Nedansja, 359
Nedre Vaage, 257
Nedre Vascnden, 209
Neerstein, 204
Neiden Elv, 231
Neumunster, 26, 101
Nickala, 363
Nid Elv, 234
Nid River, 249
Nidaros, 248
Niemio, 272
Nissa River, 379
Njurunda River, 359
Nobbelcd, 373, 376
Nobbelof, 373
Nohl, 368, 381
NOklebye, 255
Nor i Brandvold, 259
Nora, 366
Nordal, 193
Nord Arnoen, 222
Norderhoug, 190, 191
Nordgaard i Gangedal, 200
Nordgaard i Sillijord, 199
Nordgulena, 209
Nordre Rolstad, 259, 261
S 2
300
DENMARK, KOKWAY, SWEDES".
HORD SJ8.
Nord Sjo, 194, 203
Norje, 37B
Norlid, 261
Normands-jokeln , 17!*
Normands I.aagen, 198
Norrby, 375
Norrkoping, 370
Nun Hivi-r, 3i7
North Cape, the, 229
Nortorf,
Norway, 101
102; Routes from
England, 103; Money,
Weights and Measures,
103; Passports, 105;
Modes of travelling, 105;
Inns, !0fi; Steamers, 107;
Boats, 107; Carrioles, 10H,
111 ; Four-wheeled car
riages, 108, 111; Requi
sites for travelling, 109;
Luggage carts, 111; Post
ing regulations, 112;
Sending Korbud, 114; Pay
ments for horses and
boats,
117; Alphabet,
118;
Language,
119; Vocabu
lary, 121; -Scenery and
Sketching, 121S; Angling,
130; Salmon, 1.10; Trout.
131 ; Flies and Rods, 132;
Shooting, 133 ; name
Laws, 135; Lemmings,
136 i Fjelds, Fjords, and
Valleys, 137; Geology,
137; Mineralogy, 13)1;
Climate, 1 Jtt ; Population,
139; Statistics, 139; His
torical Notice, 140 1 Go
vernment, 140; Storthing,
146; Religion, 147; Pub
lic Instruction, 140; Jus
tice, 148; Press, 149;
Army and Navy, 149;
Revenue, U9t People, 160;
Productive
151 ;
Agriculture,Industry,
151 ; Forests,
152; Mines, 153; Fisheries,
154; Manufacture*, 154;
Commerce, 154; Foreign
Trade, 155; Exports and
Imports, 155 ; Commercial
Marine, 155; Literature,
155
Nuppi Vara, 266
Nyeborg, 68
Nyekidping,74
Nygaard Glacier, 174
Nykflping, 370
Nyso, 76
Nysted, 206
Nystuen, 171, 256
Oberhausen, 58
Oby, 344
Odde, 201
Oddences, Church of, 234
OdderS, Island of, 234
Odegaarden, 204
Odense, 67, 68
Oengen , 259, 262

Ofte, 199
Oien, 240
Oiestad, 276
Oiloe, 170
Ojeby,St.,
362Cemetery of, 84;
Olaf,
Birthplace of, 240 ; Death
of, 214; Shrine of, 250
Oland, Island of, 316, 375
Oien Fjord, 207
Ulfernces, 208
6'lken i Slidre, 170
6'lsby, 342
6'nska, 361
Opaker, 261, 273
Opdal, 246
Ophuustuen, 259
Oppegaard, 191
Optun, 241, 279
Or, 373
Orebro, 386
Ore River, 362
Oresund Lake, 260
Orkelljunga, 372
Orkla Elv, 212, 216
Orkney Islands, 88
Ormen, 256
Ormfiga, 375
Oronst, Island of, 3110
Orsa,
346 Lake, 345
Orsasjon
Orsted, 101
Os i Tolgen, 260
Osboigd Elv, 197
Oscarshamm, 375
Osloe, 159
6'stad, 371
Ostend, 52
Osterby, Forges of, 341
Osterbyn, 382
Osterdalen Route, 258
Oster Fjord, 209
Osteriisoer, 204
Osteroen, Island of, 182
Ostersund, 360
to Trondhjem, 360
Ost Gota Canal, 350
Ostra Ljungby, 372
Ostre, 202
Ostre Bagholm, 207
Ostre Gaatoug, 194
6stud-fos, 179
Otta Elv, 241, 280
Otter River, 200
Ougendal, 206
Ous, 261
Elv, 261, 273
Ouse Fjord, 176
Ousoren, 208
Oust, 247
Overby, 259
Overdrevsbakken,
76
Index.
RAILROADS.
Overgaard, 215
Ovinna Elv, 206
Ovslag, 101
Ovne, 246
Ovre-Vasenden, 178
Oyeren So, 261
Paboda, 375
Prckkila, 272 2?w
Palajoensuin,
Paskallavik, 3/5
Pasvig Elv, 231
Pello, 272
Person,
Pictures,362Collections of
Copenhagen, 35 ; Cologne,
55; Dusseldorf, 55; Ant
werp, 56 ; The Hague, 58 ;
Christiania, 161 ; Bergen,
185; Stockholm, 322
Pillkrog, 370
Pinneberg, 65
Piro, 236, 254
Pitea, 362
to Lulea,
Platen,
Baron 362
Baltzar von,
348, 351
PlOn, 59
Pomona, 88
Porsgrund, 194, 203
Potzdam , 334
Prajstebjerget , 75
Praestegaarden,191
Praesto Fjord, 76
Preetz, 60
Prestbol, 367
Prinsdal, 274
Probstey, 29
Prugra Elv, 222
Q.
Qualvig, 221
Qvam, Church of, 241
Qvame, 171
Qvammen, 212
Qvamso, 176
Uvarsebo, 374
Qvibille,379
Qviinge, 373
Qvistrum, 381
QvkIIo, 252
Qvcenbergsund, 194
Rabalshede, 381
Raby, 371
Rcege Fjord, 234
Rafsunds Lake, 359
Raftesund, 220
Raknebo, 369
RailroadsDanish, 5 ; Altona to Kiel, 25, 26; KOrBor to Copenhagen, 9,
Index.
DENMAltK, NORWAY, SWEDEN.
RAMUNDEBODA.
69 ; Hamburg to Lubeck,
60
; Slesvig
line, 65 j Tonning
to Flensburg,
100 ;
Antwerp to Cologne, 56 ;
Berlin to Stettin, 3,'i4 ;
Brunswick to Magdeburg,
334; Deutz to Hanover,
55; Hanover to Bruns
wick, 333 ; Hanover to
Harburg, 56 ; Magdeburg
to Berlin, 334 s Ostend to
Cologne, 53; Rotterdam
to Hanover, 58 ; Norwe
gian Grand Trunk, 236;
Swedish, 265; Arboga to
Orebro, 365; Orebro to
Nora, 366; Malmo to
Lund, 377
Ramundeboda, 367
Randers, 67
Rands Fjord, 168
Ranea, 362
Ranen Elv, 222
Rattwick, Church of, 345
Ratzeburg, 60
Rauma ETv, 255
Ravnsborg, 192
Ree, 20/
Reed, 209
Reen Elv, 259
Refsland, 206
Refsudden, 375
Reiersdal, 205
Reikiavik, 90
Reinaa, 213
Reindeer travelling, 264
Reisen Elv, 226
Relingdcn, 210
Rembiedals-foa, 179
Remmels, 65
Rena Elv, 259
Rendsburg, 65
RennisOe, Island of, 207
Repvaag, 231
Revaa, 202
Ribe.ttO
Rielea, 362
Rige, 205
Riis Fjord, 229
RiisOer, 233
Rilanda, 364
Ringebo, Church of, 240
Ringeriget, 168
Ringkioping, 86
Ringsaker, 238
Ringsted, 70
Rise, 246
Rissen, 252
Riukan-fos, 195
197 to the Voring-fos,
Rivers, subterraneous, 222
Rodbjerget, 235
Rodland, 209
RodsaHh, 256
Rodsheim, 241
Rodven Fjord, 257
Roe, 190
ROed, 204, 274
Roeskilde, 70 ; Cathedral,
71 ; Royal Monuments,
71
Rogstad, 261
Roldal, 200
Rollo, Duke of Normandy,
Castle of, 210
Romsdal, 255
horn, 256
Rfinne, 315
ROnneby, 376
ROnnede, 76
Ronneid, 174
Ror Fjord, 199
Roraas, 260
Rorvig, 206
Rosenberg, 331
Rosendal, 189, 201
Palace of, 329
Rosenvold, 86
Roseth, 210
Roske, 214
Rosseland, 204
Ros Vand, 200
Rosvik, 362
Rotebro, 357
Rotterdam, 57
Roxen Lake, 350
Rudkjoping, 73
Rudsberg, 366
Rugen, Island of, 314
Rundals Elv, 176, 180
Rundane Mountains, 242
Rusten, Pass of, 242
Rutledal, 2(19
Rydboholm, 331
Ryen, 260
Ryssby, 375
Ryssestad, 205
S.
Stebo, 178
Scebv, 87
Soervold, 208
Saner Aae, 242
Sceter Beverthun, 279
Soatersdal, 205
Sat'var, 362
Saifvits, 363
Sala, 342
Salaup Fjord, 211
Salen Lake, 373
Salhuus, 222
Salmon-fishing, 1311; H rdanger Fjord, 180; Topdais Elv, 204; Nainsen,
219; Alten, 227; Tana,
131, 227; Sundal, 246;
Gula Elv, 247; Trondhjem, 252; Rauma Elv,
255; Dal River, 356 ; Angerman River, 361 ; Falkenberg, 379
Salten Fjord, 222
Salten Sirttm, 223
Saltnais, 223
Saltnoesanden, 212*
Samsoe, Island of, 88
Sand, 195
391
SKALLERUD.
Sandbacka, 344
Sandblie, 241
Sande, 176
Sandefjord, 203, 233
Sandesund, 235
Sandfarhuus, 213
Sando, 202
Sands Fjord, 207
Sandtorvholm, 224
Sandven Vand, 200
Sandvik, 201
Sangio, 363
Sanna, 359
Sanne, 168
Sannesmoen, 194
SannossOen, 222
Sarpsborg, 275
Sarps-fos, 275
Sater, 345
Sathalla, 374
Saxkjoping, 74
Saxo Grammaticus, 69, 71
Saxtorp, 378
Scanderborg, 84
Scandinavia, v ; Maxims
and Suggestions, ix ;
Books upon Scandinavia,
x ; Passports, and Lists of
Ambassadors, xii ; Money,
xiii ; Travelling Servants,
xiv ; Carriages, xiv ;
Clothes and Luggage,xiv;
Skeleton Tours, xvi ;
Scandinavian Steamers,
xix ; Danish Steamers,
xx ; Norwegian Steamers,
xxi; Swedish Steamers,
xxiii
Schiefeland, 207
Sea beaches, 226, 297
Segeberg, 59
Seglerum, 374
Seid Elv, 240
Selerstad, 221
Selbo Lake, 252
Seljestad, 200
Selsovik, 222
Senjen, 224
Sevle-fos, 178
Sevre, 191
Seyland, 228, 267
Shetland Islands, 89
Siaberdasjok, 267
Sieland (see Zealand)
Sigstad, 238, 258
Sigtuna, 335, 357
Siljan Lake, 345
Sillegjord Vand, 199
Sinclair, Col., account of,
241, 256
Sirnces, 206
Siri Elv, 206
Sis Fjord, 25
Sjoberga, 371
Sjogerum, 374
Skaar, 209
Skagen, 87
Skagerack, 158, 381
Skagstoltind, 174, 241, 278
Skalholt, 95
Skallerud, 381
393
SKiLSTUCEN.
Skalstugen, 263. 360
Skanderhorg, Lake of, 85
Skangs KK, 197
Skapta Jokul, 92
Skarmnas, 367
Skarplinge, ,141
Skatungebyn, 346
skeager, 200
Skedshult, 374
Skei, 209
Skjsrgehavn, 209, 235
Skeleftea, 362
River, 302
Skibnces, 285
Skien, 194, 2(13
Skifarp, 377
Skifstad, 212
Skillingaryd, 372
Skillinge, 376
Skiervo, 226
Skjcelbro Field, 254
Skjolden, 2i8
Skogshom, 191)
Skoien, 169
Skokloster, Chateau of, 336
Skole, 211
Skrimstad, 236
Skyttie-fos, 179
Slagelse, 69
Sleswig, 65
Slettebo, 2116
Sliiinge, 379
Slyngstad, 210
Smedby, 365
Snudsbo, 344
Smedshammer, 108
Smestad, 255
Snaasen Vand, 215
Snarum Elv, 193
Sneehtetten, 244
Sneva, 246
Snoghoi, 67
Soboden, 194
Soderhamm, 359
Soderkoping, 349, 3?0
Sodertelje, 346, 369
Sodvik, :>75
Sogn, 16U
Sngnedals Elv, 191
Sogne Field, 270
Fjord, 175
River, 206
Sogstad, Runic obelisk at
254 73, 210, 256
SOholt,
Soknces, 247
Solfond Nup, 200
So!heim,241
Sollebrunn, 368
SolIerOd, 202
SOIlesnces, 257
Solster Vand, 209
Solvora, 174, 27
Sommen Lake, 374
Sommerspiret, 75
SOndre Fougstad, 241
Sopnoes, 226
Sorbye, 203
Sor Fjord, 200
Sorknces, 259
Sorlid. 261
Sonotole,
36-2 of, (19
SOro, Academy
Sort) Sund, 228
Sor Russevaag, 224
Sorte, 210, 256
Sorteberg, 191
Sound Duties, 83
Silvik, 222
Soyland, 207
Spanga, 366
Spaniards in Nyeborg, 68
Sparlosa, 368
Sparresholm, 76
Spilluin, 215
Spitibergen Trade, 228
Spjute, 361
Spodsbierg, 73
Sprogoe, 69
Staby, 364
Stade, 18
Stalheim, 178
Stalljernslugan, 360
Stamglrde, 360
Stangebro, battle of, 371
Stangvik, 212
Stappcn, Bay of, 91
Starhult, 373
stathelle, 204
Stavangcr, 207, 231
to Bergen, 207
Fjord, 207Hardangcr
Steamers Scandinavian,
xix ; Danish, xx ; Nor
wegian, xxi ; Swedish,
xxiii
Steege, 75
Steeusballegaard, 85
Steensfjeld, 209
Steensfjord, 108
Steenkjcer, 215
Steensoen, 222
Stegeborg Castle, 349
Steilo, 220
Stein, 259, 262
Stennis, stones of, 88
Stettin, 334
to Stockholm , 334
Stiby, 376
Stigamo, 373
Stiklestad, 214, 263
Battle of, 214
to, 214 Carl Johan's visit
Stoen, 260
Stocketorp, 376
Stockholm, 319 ; Inns, 319 j
Cafes, 320; Stora, or Liltle Club, 320 i Post Office,
320
Bank of Sweden,
320;i Valets-de-place,
320;
Society, 320 ; 1'alace, 322 ;
Royal Museum, 322; Pic
ture Gallery, 322; Collec
tion of Drawings, 322;
Sculpture Gallery, 322;
Egyptian and Etruscan
Collections, 323 ; Royal
Wardrobe, 323; Armoury,
323
; Arsenal,
323 ; Royal
Library,
323 ; Money
and
Index.
SPNDBY.
Medallion Cabinet, 324 ;
Northern Antiquities, 324;
Chapel Royal, 324; Sta
tue of Gustavus 111-.
325
; Royal 325;
Stables,
325 ;
Churches,
Riddarhuus,327; Statue of Gus
tavus Wasa, 327; Mint,
327; Cabinet of Minerals
and Fossils, 327; Garden
of the Horticultural So
ciety, 327 ; Zoological Mu
seum, 327 ; Bystrom's Stu
dio, 328; Theatre, 328;
Statue of Gustavus Adolphus, 328; of CharlesXIII.,
329;
Djurgard, 329;
of Rosendal,
329;Palace
By
strom's Villa, 329; Haga
Park, 330; Observatory,
330Carlberg,
; Cemetery,
; Park
of
330330
; Shops,
330;
Royal
PorphyryWare
house, 330 ; Police Office,
330 ; boats,
Droskis,
; Pas
sage
331 ; 331
Environs,
331
;
Drottningholm,
331 ;
SvartsjO, 331 ; Rosenberg,
331
;
Rydboholm,
331 ;
Gripsholm, 332 ; Strengnas, 332 ; Steamers, 332 ;
Carriages, 333; Dili
gences, 333
Stocksjon, 362
Stok Elv, 254
Slora Aby, 370
Stora Logdan River, 362
Stora Ror, 375
Stora Tjerby, 379
Storbjorboda, 366
Stordals Elv, 213
Stor Elv, 254
Storem, 215
Stor Fjord, 210, 256
Storhammer,
Stor
Lake, 273238
Storns Lake, 359
Stor SO, 258
Slot, 222
Straken Lake, 373
Stralsund, 314
Strand, 221, 342, 367
Strande, 257
Strande Fjord, 208
Strandstedet Saimces, 206
Stratjara, 358
Strcengen, 199
Strcengnas, 332
Stromsoe, 89
Stromstad, 381
Stuen, 246
SuderOe, 89
Sulitjelma, 223
Sundalen, 246
Sundals Elv, 211, 246
Sundalsoren, 212
Sundbo, 199
Sundby, 87
Index.
SUNDBl'E.
Sundbye, 74
(in Norway), 261,
273, 274
Sundfjord, 208
Sundseth, 246
Sundsvall, 359
to Ostersund, 359
Umea,
Sundvolden,to 168,
191 361
Sunnana, 362
Sura Elv, 212
Surendalsoren, 212
Suul, 263, 361)
River, 360
Svoerholt, 227
Svalestad, 206
Svanoes, 206
Svanberga, 364
Svardsbro, 370
Svart-an, 365
Svart Elv, 255, 258
SvarteElv, 199
Svarteberg, 381
Svartsjo, Palace of, 331
Sveen, 169, 2(19, 254
Svelvig, 202
Svenarum, 373
Svendborg, 72
Svincer, 222
Sweden, 282 ; Routes from
England, 283 i Money,
Measures, Weights, 283 ;
Passports, Quarantine,
285
Modes
of Travel
ling,; 285;
Railways,
285;
Inns, 285 ; Steamers,
286
;
Carriages,
286
Requisites for Travelling,;
287;
287 ; Post
ing Forbud,
Regulations,
287 ;
Table of Payments for
Horses, 288; Vocabulary,
289 ; Dialogues, 292 ;
Scenerv and Sketching,
295; Angling, 295 ; Shoot
ing and Game Laws, 296;
Account of, 296 ; Forma
tion of Country, 296 ;
Lakes and Rivers, 297 ;
Geology,298 ; Mineralogy,
298; Forests, 298, 310;
Climate, 298 ; Population,
298; Historical Notice,
298 ; Government, 305 ;
Diet, 305 ; Religion, 305 ;
Public Instruction, 306;
Press, 306; Justice, 306;
Army, 306 ; Navy, 307 ;
Orders of Knighthood,
307 ; Public Finances, 307 ;
Royal Family, 308 ; Peo
ple, 308 ; Productive In
dustry, 309; Agriculture,
309; Mines, 310; Fisheries,
310; Manufactures, 310;
Commerce, 311 ; Foreign
Trade, 311 ; Literature,
311 ; Churches, 312 ;
Canals, 312
Swerroberg, 247
Swinemtinde, 335
Swinesund, 276, 277, 381
Sylte, 210
Syssendal, 178
Systad, 209
T.
Taars, 73
Taarvik, 211
Tabetg, Hill of, 371
Tafra, 361
Taleren, 75
Talvik, 226
Tana Elv, 227
Tang, 369
Tannii, 372
Taylor, Mr. Bayard, on the
North Cape, 230
Teigen, 252
Tellemarken, 192
Teraak, 221
Tcroen, 189, 235
Tessung Fjeld, 197
Teterud, 253
Theatres Hamburg, 23 ;
Copenhagen, 48; Christiania, 161 ; Bergen, 186 ;
Trondhjem, 251 ; Stock
holm, 328
Thingvalla, 93
Thorseng, 73
Thorshavn, 89
Thorwaldsen's Museum, 43
Thoten, 237
Threnen, Island of, 222
Thronstad, 210
Thune, 171
Tible, 365
Tida River, 368
Timmelhed, 371
Tind, Village of, 197
Sjo,Church
195 of, 349
Tingsta,
Tingvold Fjord, 211
Tinncos, 193, 198
Tiniiset, 195
TjiTnagelen, 207
Tjomsland, 206
Tjotoe, 222
Tjureda, 374
To Sceteren, 280
Tofte, 243
Tolgen, 260
Tomlevold, 169
Tonilen Elv, 260, 262
TOnning, 100
Tonsberg, 202
Topdal Elv, 204
TOre, 363
Torghoetten, 222
Tornea, 272, 363
River, 271
Torpane, 382
Torrisdals Elv, 205
Tortola, 272
Torvlg, 257
Totak Vand, 197
Traheryd, 372
393
UPSALA.
Tranas, 373, 376
Tranekicer, 73
Trilsta, 364
Travemunde, 64
Trensum, 376
Trodje, 358
Trods, 209
Trceet, 207
Troldtinderne, 256
Trollhattan, Falls of, 353,
381
Tromsdal, 225
Troms Elv, 240
Tromsoe, 225
Tron Fjeld, 259, 262
Trondences, Church of, 224
Trondhjem, 247; Inns, 247 ;
Post Office, 248; Shops,
248 : Nidaros, 248 ; Na
tional Bank, 249 ; Cathe
dral, 249; Arsenal, 251 ;
Museum, 251; Theatre,
251 ; Trade, 251; Environs,
252 ; Salmon Fishing,
252 ; Excursions from,
252 ; Steamers, 253
Trondhjem to the Namsen,
212
219, ,235 to Hammerfest,
Trosa, 370
Trostem, 191
Trygstad, 236
Trys Fjord, 206
Trysil, 262
Tue Fjord, 229
Tuff, 190
Tvede, 204
Tvedestrand, 204
Tveten i Vinje, 200
Tvinden, 178
Tvisoet, 199
Tyen Vand, 170,241
Tynces, 213, 263
Tyri Fjord, 168, 193
U.
Uddevalla, 369, 380
Uddue, 252
Udgaarden, 204
LMleire, Tumulus at, 77
Udt, 85
Udvigeu, 209
Uten'Elv, 241
Ulfasa, 350
Ulfs Fjord, 225
Ullersatter, 365
Ulrikehamm, 371
Ulvik, 178
Ulvoen, 220
Umea, 362
to Pitea, 302
UniversitiesKiel, 28 ; Co
penhagen, 42; Christiania,
160; Upsala, 338; Lund,
377
Uppbo, 342
Uppland, 360
Upsala, 337, 357 ; Cathedral,
39 1
Vestnoes, 211, 256

Vcstre-Os, 273
Vcttie-Gielcn, 175
Vexet,Elv.
215 1 ill
Vials
Viborg, 87
VlcMMern Lake, 372
Vic, 215
VlfedaUOren, 200, 207
Vigelaml, 206
Vigesaa, 2i>6
Viig, 240
Vik, 178
Vikan, 215
Vikarby, 345
Vikcn Lake. 351
Vikiir, 179, 201
Villa Elv, 247
Vt
Vindeby, 73
Vinje,
178
Vaage,' 241
Vand, 200
Vaage Vand, 242
Vinstra Elv, 246
Vases Fjord, 2i9
Vismund Elv, 254
Vaalen Elv, 240
Vissenberg, 67
Vaarstige, 245
Viuls Elv, 168
Vadem, 178
Vojakola,
272
Vadso, 231
Volden, 235
Vsggum, 242
Vollan,
247,
261
Vr Elv, 214
Volu Lake, 243
Va?ra River, 263
Vordal,
213
Vasrdals Fjord, 213
178
Vaerdal, Mr. Laing's descrip V8ring-fos,
Vormen Elv, 255, 261, 273
tion of, 263
Vossevangen,
178
Vaeroe, 22(1
to Bergen, 180
Vahlen, 208
Vreta Kloster, Church of,
Valle, 199
350
Valla, 233
Castle of, 77
Valla, Salt Works at, 203
Vanderyds Lake, 368
Vangnoes, 176
Wcehx, 85
Vangs Fjord, 178
Wadebacka, 368
Varanger Fjord, 231
Wadstena, 351
Varde, 86
Waldemar's Castle, 73
Vardohuus, 231
Wall, 366
Vasbotten, 203
Vasbunden, 168
Wanas,
Fortress of, 351
Vasenrud, 191
Wansbeck, 26,59
Vathne, 206
Warbcrg,
379
Vatnedal, 205
Warfths, 10
Veblungsnceset, 256
Warnaby,
375
Veetne, 191
Wassbotten, Lake of, 353
Vefsen River, 222
Wassmolosa,
3/5
Veglie Elv, 241
WaterfallsKeel-fos, 177 ;
Veiie, 85
Sevle-fos,
178;
VoringVemmences, 73
fos, 178; Skyttie-fos, 179;
Vemundvik, 221
Rembie-dals-fos,
179;
OsVenemce Elv, 200
tud-fos, 179 ; Hone-fos,
Vermen Lake, 373
191
;
Larbro-fos,
194
;
RiuVerviers, 54
kan-fos,Fiskuin-fos,
195; Hel-fos,
205;
215;
Vest Fjord, 220, 224
Vestgaard, 259, 262, 381
Hunnefos, 239; Lier-fos,
UP8ALA, OLD.
3^7 ; Tomb of LiiilMMta,
337; To:nb of Gustavus
Wasa, 337; University,
338; Library. .'Ml i Hntaniral Garden, 339; Pa
lace, Ml
Upsala, Old, 340
to Falun, 341
Utby, 345
Vine, 179. 188, 201
Utnedal, 170
Utrecht, 48
Una Vand, 171
Index.
ZETLAND ISLANDS.
252; Sarp-fos, 275; Feigum-fos, 278; Trollhattan , 353
Wattjoni, 359
Waxholm, 319
Weberod, 377
Weda, 361
Wenem Lake, 352
Weneraborg,
369, 382 of,
Wermelaiid, 3.53,
Province
36(1
Wermelcn Lake, 367
Wernamo, 372
Westana, 341, 358
Westeras, 365; Cathedral,
365 ; Castle, 365 ; Library,
365
Westerwik,319,374
West Fjord, 229
Westgaard, 277
West UBta Canal, 352
WetLern Lake, 351
Wexio, 373, 374, 376
Wiburg, 28
VViila, 374
Wlfsta,
Wik,381o361
,N
Wmterasa Sanna, 366
Wisby, 317, 375; Antiqui
ties, 317 ; Churches, 318
Wisingso, Island of, 351
Wiske River, 379
Wolves, attack by,. 171
Wordingborg, 74
Wormen Elv, 237
Wreta, 370
Wretstorp. 367
Wrigsta, 3/3
Wrongs Elv, 273, 367
Yfre, 358
Yngsje, 376
Ystad, 314, 373,37o
to Malma, 377
to Helsingborg, 377
to Stralsund, 314
Zealand, Railway,
Island of,6974
Zetland Islands (see Shet
land)
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M U R R AY'S
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1858.
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INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS.
GERMANY.
Berliit.Harsch's Glass Warehouse . 13
Bonn.Golden Star Hotel . . .19
Carlsbad.Wolf's Glass Manufactory 11
Cologne.Farina's Eau de Cologne . 10
Dresden.Magazine of Fine Arts . 1 1
Frankfort.Bing's Manufactory . 8
Taechi's Glass Warehouse 9
Roman Emperor Hotel . 1 2
Bohler's Manufactory of
Staghora . . . IjG, 17
Munich.Wimmer's Magazine . . 7
Prague and Vienna.Hofmann's Glass
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11
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FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, & ITALY.
Brienz.Grossmann'sWood Sculpture 6
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Nice.How's English Warehouse . 7
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Pisa.Huguet and Van Lint, Sculptors 6
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Zurich.H6tel Belle Vue .... 24
Eerez, Chemist .... 24
ENGLAND.
Custom House AgentsMeCracken * 2
Cary's Telescope
,12
May, 1858.
Mechi's Dressing Cases . . . .12

Argus Life Assurance . . . . . 13
National Bank of Scotland . . .14
Thimm, Foreign Bookseller . . .14
Spiers' Ornamental Manufactures . 14
Black's Guide Books
15
Passport Agency Office . . . .18
Royal Insurance Office .... 20
Pelican Life Insurance . . . .21
London and Westminster Bank . .21
Locock's Pulmonic Wafers ... 22
Athenseum . i
22
Blackwood's Maps
23
Lavin's Cornish Museum
... 24
Sir Walter Scott's Works . . . .25
Southgate's Portmanteaus . .
. 2C
South-Eastern Railway . . . .27
Society of Swiss Couriers .... 28
Tennant, Geologist
28
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29
Stanford, Mapseller . . . . .30
Rowland's Perfumery . . . .31
Galignani's Paris Guide . . . .31
Von Wegnern, German Teacher . .31
Works on the Fine Arts . . . .32
Sunset any Hour
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*33
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Steam to California, &c. ' . . . ,33
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B
2
BRITISH CUSTOMS DUTIES.
London, January 1, 1858.
MCCRACKEN,
MESSRS. J. & R.
7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON,
IMPORTERS OF FOREIGN WINES,
And Agents to Messrs. A. DELGADO and SON, of Cadis,
AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY,
AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART,
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And Agents generallyfor the Reception and Shipment of Works of Art, Baggage, &c
FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD,
Return their Bincere acknowledgments to British Artists resident abroad, having
the Nobility and Gentry for the liberal pa occasion to send home their works for Ex
tronage hitherto conferred on them. They hibition, or to be passed by the Academy,
hope, by THE MODERATION OF THEIR will find it advantageous to address them to
CHARGES, and their unremitting care in the care of Messrs. J. & R. M'C, whose
passing through the CUSTOM-HOUSE Pro appointment enables them to offer every
perty confided to them, to merit a conti facility.
nuance of the favours they have heretofore Parties favouring J. & R. M'C. with Con
enjoyed. Their establishment comprises DRY signments are requested to be particular
AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, where in having the Bills of Lading sent to them
Works of Art and all descriptions of Property DIRECT by post, and also to forward their
can be kept during the Owner's absence, at Keys with the Packages, as all Goods MUST
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BE EXAMINED immediately on arrival.
J. k R. M'C. undertake to execute Commis J. & R. M'C. keep Marsala Wines of first
sions for the purchase of Pictures, Statuary quality, also Port, and Messrs. A. Dkloado
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other Foreign Wines.
Packages sent, by Steamers or otherwise, to Southampton and Liverpool, also attended to ; but
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LIST OF DUTIES
NOW PAYABLE IN LONDON UPON THE IMPORTATION OF WORKS OF ART,
. . .
CURIOSITIES, ETC., FROM THE CONTINENT^
The following Articles are AM FREE OF DUTY.
Alabaster and Marble.
Casts of Busts, Statues, or Figures.
Amber, Manufactures of.
Coral, whole, polished, unpolished, and
Anchovies.
fragments.
Agates and Cornelians, unset.
Cotton, Manufactures of, notbeing articles
Books, of editions printed prior to 1801.
wholly or in part made up.
Bronze Works of Art (antiques and ori Diamonds, Emeralds, Pearls, and other
ginal works only).
Precious Stones, not set.
Bullion, Coins and Medals of all kinds, Flower Roots.
and battered Plate.
Frames for Pictures, Prints, Drawings,
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Furs and Skins, and Articles thereof.
Cameos, not set. *
Glass, all Plate, Cast or Rolled Glass.
Carriages of'all sorts.
Beads
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and on
Bugles.
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MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
McCRACKEWS I.X6T OF DUTIEScontinued.

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wholly or in part made up.
Sausages.
Lay Figures, imported by British Artists Specimens of Natural History, Minerals,
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Fossils, and Ores.
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Mineral Waters.
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Olives and Olive Oil.
On the following1 Articles the Duty is 5 per cent, ad valorem.
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Goats' Hair or WooL
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Cotton Articles, wholly or in partmade up, made up.
On the following: Articles the Duty is lO per cent, ad valorem.
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Egyptian, and all other Antiquities.
Musical Instruments, excepting Musical
Embroidery and Needlework.
Boxes, Brass Instruments, Pianos, and
Furniture of all kinds.
Accordions.
Jewellery, and all Jewels set.
Scagliola Tables.
Lace made by hand.
Arquebusade Water
.
the gallon 1
Beads of Coral
the lb. 0
- Crystal, Jet, and Mock Pearl
ditto 0
Books, of editions printed in and since 1801 .
the cwU 1
imported under International Treaties of Copyright

ditto 0
(Pirated Editions of English Works,totally
ofwhich
the Copyright exists in England,
prohibited.)
English, reimported (unless declared that no Drawback
was claimed on Export) .
.
.
.
the lb. 0 0 lj
Brocade of Gold and Silver
....
ditto 050
Bronze, \
Brass, and > all Manufactures of
.
.
the act 0 10 0
Copper, J
Carpets and Bugs (woollen)
.
.
. the square yard 0 0 6
Coral Negligees .
.
.
.
.
. the lb. 0 1 0
China, Porcelain, and Earthenware, all
.
. the cwt. 0 10 0
Clocks, not exceeding the value of 5s. each .
.
. the dozen 0 4 0
~ exceeding 5., and not exceeding the value of 125. 6d. each ditto 0 8 0
exceeding 12s. 6d.t and not exceeding the value of Zl. each each 0 2 0
exceeding Zl., and not exceeding the value of IQl. .
ditto 0 4 0
exceeding 10/. value
.
,
.
.
ditto 0 10 0
Cigars and Tobacco, manufactured (3 lbs. only allowed in a
passenger's baggage, and 5 per cent, additional) .
.
the Zft. 0 9 0
Tobacco, unmanufactured (with 5 per cent, additional on the Duty) ditto 0 3 0
(N.B.Unmanufactured
Tobacco
cannot
be
imported
in
less
quantity
than
800
lbs.,
or Cigars
80 lbs.andin payment
a Packageofa; butFinesmall
Use
on
declaration,
of Is.quantities
tfd. per lb.nreinallowed
additionlortoPrivate
the Duty.)
Coffee .
.
.
.
.
.
. the lb. 0 0 4
Confectionery, Sweetmeats and Succades .
.
ditto 0 0 2
Cordials and Liqueurs
.
.
,.
.
.the gallon 10 0
Curtains, embroidered on Muslin or Net, called Swiss Curtains the lb. 0 1 0
Eau de Cologne, in long flasks
.... the flask 008
in any other description of bottles .

. the gallon 10 0
B 2
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.'
KoCSJLCJCBir'a ust 07 3
Fiowiu, Artificial, the cnbio foot as packed
V
. 0 12 0
Glass, Flint, Cut, Coloured, and Fancy Ornamental Glass, of
whatever kind .
.
.
* . *. b j * thecwt. 0 10 0
Gloves, of Leather (and 5 per eent. additional)
.
the dozen pair 0- $>
Lacquered and Japanned Wares
.
. a
. ike etot* 1 0 Q
Maccaroni and Vermicelli
*
.
ditto . 0 1,:m0
Naples Soap ' . . . .
.
ditto ft 0( &
Perfumery
.
.
..
.
.
the lb. 0 0 2
Perfumed Spirits .
.
. , ,
,
M
the gallon 10 0
Paper hangings, Flock Paper, and Paper printed, painted, or stained the lb. 0 ft- 8
Pianofortes, horizontal grand
....
each 3
0
upright and square .
* , < ' . ditto 2 0 0
Plate, of Gold
.
.
.
.
the oz. .troy 110
of Silver, gilt or ungilt
..
.
.
. . . " ditto 0 1 ft '
Prints and Drawings, single or bound, plain or coloured .
the $.09$
Silk, Millinery, Turbans or Caps .
. ,^
?i . - . , e<ft 0
ft
Hats or Bonnets . * '
'.:
.
1 ' ditto 0 7 1 &
Dresses .
.
*j
ditto 1 19 O
Hangings, and other Manufactures of Silk
. the 100?. value 15 0" 0
Velvets, plain or figured
.
.
the V)-. 0" 9 0
Tea
.
.
.
v ,v,:,..v... .^(i 0, 1
Toys and Turnery .
....
the cubic foot 004
Wine in Casks or Bottles (in bottles 6 to the gal., & 5 per cent, add.) the gal. 0 5 6
Spirits in Cask or Bottle .
.
.
... ditto 0 15 0
No Cask can be imported of less contents than 24 Gallons.
THEIR PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS ARE AT
CALAIS
Messrs. Chartier, Mory, & Vogue. Messrs. Isaac Vital & Fils*
BOULOGNE S. M... Messrs.CHARTiER,MoRY,&VoGUE. Mr.H.SiUE. Mr-.C.QuETTiEn.
,Mr. M. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix Petits Champs,. No. 24.
PARIS
J Mr. J. Kleinfelder, 38, Rue Lafayette.
IM. M. Hofmann, 56, Rue Hauteville.
HAVRE
Messrs. P. Devot 3c Co.
HONFLEUR
Mr. J. Wagner.
i ... .
iw
a
doittt
t
-m
S
Messrs.
Horace 8,Bouchet
& Co. Messrs. Claude
MARSEILLES
j fc Phtligret,
Rue Suffreu.
, Clkrc & Co.
BAGNERES DE BI- ,
GORRE (Hautes I Mr. Leon Geruzet, Marble Wefrksv : . >: .
Pyrenees)
.,..J
PAU
Mr. Merillon Aine.
nnRn(ji
.
tty
Mr. Lfe>N
Leon gANS0T(
Geruzet,FrLSi
44, Allies
de Tourny.
UUHUJiAUA
S Mr
jj6tel de8
Princes efc de ^ pail>
GIBRALTAR
Messrs. Archbold,-Johnston, & Powers. Messrs. Turner & Co.
LISBON
Mr. Arthur Van Zeller, Penin. & Orient. St. Nav. C6.'s Offieea.
SFVI7 IF
i Mr* ÛLr4N B- Williams, British Vice-Consulate.
| Don Juan Ant. Bailly.
MALAGA
Mr. W. P. Marks, British Consul.
xtce
C Messrs. A. Lacroi'x & Co., British Consulate. Mr. T. W. How.
\ Messrs. Avigdor Aine & Fils. Mr. Ck. Giordan.
ri?NmA
$\ Messrs.
GibbsJan.,
& Co.British
Sig. Vice-ConsaL
G. Loleo, CroceGio.di TigHolo
Malta. & Ftg.
UiWUA
Mr. Brown,
attt
a
v
S
Messrs.
Buffet
&
Bebutq,
Piazzale
di
S.
Sepolcro,
No. 3176.
mMa *
\ Messrs. Brambilla.
,
CARRARA
Sig.
F.
Bienajmb,
Sculptor.
Mr.
Vincenzo
Ltvy,
Sculptor.
/Messrs. W. Macbean & Coi Messrs. Henderson Brothers.
I Messrs. Thomas Pate & Sons. Messrs'. Maquay, Pakenham.,
LEGHORN
J & Smyth. Messrs. Giac. Micali & Fig. Sculptors in Alabaster
I and Marble. Mr. M. Rtstori. Mr. Joseph Guano. Messrs.
\ G. Galliani & Co. Mr. TJussr Cotreman.
PISA
.
Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble.
(Messrs. EMMie. Fenzi & Co. Messrs. Plowden & French. Messrs.
Maquay & Pasenham. Mr. E. Goodban. Mr. J, Tough,
Messrs. Nesti, Ciardi, & Co. Mr- Ant* di Luior Piacenti.
r
Mr. S. Lowe. Mr. Gaeto. BrANCHtNi, Mosaic Worker, opposite
' the Capella de' Medici. . P. Bazzanti & FKk,, Sciriptors, Lung*
l'Anio.. Helrsof F.L. Pisani, Sculptor, No.l, sal Prato. Messrs*
Fill. Pacetti, Picture-frame Makers, Via del Palagio. Sig. Carlo
Noccioli. Sig. Luiai Ramacci.
' 5
MESSBS. J. & E. McCBACXEN'S COBBESPONDENTS-nfinud.

VOLTEERA
Sig. C-no.' Caelaj, and Messrs. G. Cherici & Fig'.
BOLOGNA
Mr. G. B. Rekou. -Sig, L,. Gaui.
.ANCONA
Messrs. Moore, Merellet, ft Co.
, Messrs.ToBLONiA 4 Co. ' Messrs. Freeborn ft Co. Messrs. MaoROMF
V) BEAN
kkwum,
& Co.Looker,
Messrs.&Plowden,
Co. Mr.Choemelet,
Edwabd 'iBEBBi.
& Co. Messrs.
Mr. Luici
Pa' Branchini, at the English College.
CIVITAVECCHIA. Messrs. Lowe Brothers, JJridsh Vice-Consulate. Mr. T. Araia.
NAPLES
Messrs. Iggulden & Co. Messrs. W. J. Turner & Co.
PALERMO
Jleaeri. Prior, Tl-rAe, & Thomas.
MESSINA
Messrs. Cahxeb & Co,
CORFU
Mr. J. W.BjupcsA
Taylor.Co.
ALEXANDRIA
Messrs.
, ,/ ,
CONSTANTINOPLE Messrs. C.-ft E. <3race. Mr. Edward Lafoktaine.
iMr. Emanuel Zammit. Messrs. Jodh.DARMANTN ft Sons, 45, Strada
MALTA
.....A Levant*, Mosaic Workers. Mr. Fobtonato Testa, 92, Strada S'
1 Lucia. Messrs, L. Vkd.DeCesarjs&Fjgu. Mr. L. Fbancalasza.
SMYRNA
Messrs.
Hanson
& Co.
BEYROUT
Mr. Henry
Healo.
'
ATHENS, P1R.EUS Mr. J. J. Bucherer.
SYRA
Mr. Wilkinson, British Consul.
j Messrs. Fberes Schiklin.
VENICE
3 Messrs. S. ft A. Blumenthal & Co.
ljUr.X..BpVARiii, Campo S. Famine, Ho. 2flfiQ,-rosso.
TRIESTE
: Messrs. Moors ft Oof f I
V l_T s J !<
OSTEND
Messrs. Bach ft Co. Mr. R. St. Amour.
GHENT
Mr. J. De Buyser,-carer in Antiquities, Marche au Beurre, 21.
BRUSSELS
mTWlPP
S\Mn
Messrs.
F. Mack Si Co., Kipdorp,
No. 1748.
Am
mt
P. Vas-'Zeebkoeck,
Picture Dealer,
&c, Ruedes Recollets, 2076.
Dni"ri?Dn
a
\r
S
Messrs.
Preston
&
Co.
Messrs.
S.
A. Leviko&ftCo.
Co.
WUXUdtUAM. ^Messrs. Boutmy ft Oo. Messrs. C. Hembann
. ...
rmnr^p
I
Mr.
J.
M.
Farina,
vis-a-vis
la
Place
Juliers.
Messrs.
Gnie. Tilmes
wiMbRt.
. J kj Co. Mr. Albert BeiMann, S9, Bisbotsgartemtrane.
MAYENCE ........ Mr. G. L. Kayser, Expediteur. Mr. W. Knussmann, Cabinet Maker.
(Mr. P. A. Taochi's Successor, Glass Manufacturer, Zeil.
Messrs. Bfflo,Juo, ft Co. Mr.T. Bohler, Zeil D, 1?.
Mr. Ph.
G. A.Zimmermann.
Zipf, Ross Markt.
HEIDELBERG..... Mr.
Mr. M. Libber.
_ ,
'MANNHEIM' ' j Mr.
DinkelsI'Eil.
Messrs. Eyssen
& CtAtrs.
Mr. Hy. WruMEB, Printseller,
Promenade
St. No. 12. Messrs. May
MUNICH
...*..< ft Wujmayer, iTinttellers. Messrs. L. Nbobioli & Co. Heirs
[ of Seb. Picbler.
isTTTDtTjnirTjr'
Galimserti,
the Redand
Horse,
Dealer inAgent.
Antiquities.
" UKIJacuKU
<,< Mr.
Mr PaolO
JoHN c,,,,^
CxorItatUanke,.
Forwarding
FUBTH
Mr. A. Pickekt.
n"AMJ!,
. CT
Jean Preiswerk
Ftls.Benoit
Mr. La
Bischoff
\C Messrs.
Messrs. Schnejtlii}*
Op. ftMr.
Roche.de St. Alban.
BERNE
Mr. Albert TircMT't. JGENEVA
Messrs. Aug. Snell ft Stbasse.
LAUSANNE
Mr. L. Longchamps.
1NTERLACKEN.
.
.
,
Mr..Clemekt
CONSTANCE.,.;..!. V Mi.! J. Grossmann,
.1
1 'l Sesti.
SCHAFFHAUSEN . . > Messrs. Zollikoffer ft Hoz.
WALDSHUT
>
,
HAMBURG
Messrs.SuHAAB&CLACss. Mr.O.'F.ltoDE.
,
i>t>
Ar-iTP
S
Hofmann,
Glass Manufacturer,
Blauern
pkaguh
.
j,_ Czbbjlak, ditto.
Mt.A^LSb,
BunStern.
Maker.
r>CARLSBAD
a ui era a n
5 Mr. Thomas
Wolf, Glass
Cari KKQlI<.au
Um Manufacturer.
Bumc.
MARIENBAD ....... Mr. J. T. Abler, Glass Manufacturer.
vnrWNA
1 T| Mr.
Mr. W.
No.Stras6e.
t6s.
VUJ.JNJNA
Jos.Hofmann,
Lobnceyr, Glass
Glass Manufacturer,
Manufacturer, am
940,Lugeck,
Kamunor
|
Messrs.
Schickleh,
Brothers.
BERLIN
< Mr. Lioh M. Cohn, Commre. EEpediteur.
I Messrs. C. Harsch ft Co., Glass Manufacturers, el,Unter den Linden.
(Messrs. H. Vf. Bassenoe ft Co. Mr. C. Teichbrt, Royal PorceDRESDEN.......... < lain Manufactory DepOt. Mr. J. Kreiss, Glass Monufaeturer.
( Madame Helena Wolfsohn, Schossergasse, No. 6.
NEW YORK
Messrs. Wjlbub ft Price.

FLORENCE.
G. BIANCHINI,
MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES' ORNAMENTS
OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC,
So. 4844, VIA DE' IEKKI,
Opposite the Royal Chapel of the Medici,
TNVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where
may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful
Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables
and other Ornaments executed to any Design.
G. Biahchini's Agents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old
Jewry, London.
BRIEN2 INTERLACKEN.
J. GROSSMANN,
SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS
WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS,
AT XXTTEKXACXEIT.
TTIS WAREHOUSE is' situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof,
where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be
found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere.
Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.
PISA.
HUGUET AND VAN LINT,
SCULPTORS IN MARBLE AND ALABASTER,
Xiung' Arno, near tne Tre Donzelle.
rpHE oldest established house in Pisa, where may be found the best assortment
of Models of the Duorao, Baptistry, and Tower. Also Figures and other
local objects illustrative of the Agriculture and Customs of the country, executed
in the highest style of art.
Their extensive Show Rooms are always open to Visitors.
Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry,
London.
NICE.
NICE.
ENGLISH WAREHOUSE.
T. W. HOW,
WINE MERCHANT, GROCER, &c,
Qua! du Jardln des Plantes,
(Two doors from the Hfitel de France).
F. LATTES,
Wear the Pont Went,
GENERAL AGENT,
AHD
AGENT FOR LETTING FURNISHED
APARTMENTS.
Wines and Teas of the choicest qualities.

Bass's and AUsopp's Pale and Burton Ales,
Stout, Porter, be Lemann's Biscuits, Eng
lish Cheese, York Hams, Pickles, Sauces, and Letters addressed as above from parties
a variety of other condiments and articles requiring any information respecting Apart
too numerous to mention.
Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and ments, &c, will meet with immediate at*
R, M'Cracken, 1, Old Jewry.
teution.
MUNICH.
HENRY
WIMMER,
SUCCESSOR TO
J. M. DE HERMANN,
PEINT AND PICTURE SELLER TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING
OF BAVARIA,
HO VII, PROSESADE 8TKAS8E, Sfo. 12,
MAGAZINE OF OBJECTS OF FINE ARTS,
PICTURES, PRINTS, DRAWINGS, AND LITHOGRAPHS,
Invites the Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where he
has always on Sale an extensive collection of Pictures by Modern
Artists, Paintings on Glass and Porcelain, Miniatures, Drawings, En
gravings, and Lithographs, the latter comprising the Complete Collec
tions of the various Galleries, of which Single Copies may be selected.
He has also on Sale all that relates to the Fine Arts.
H. WIMMER undertakes to forward to England all purchases made
at his Establishment, through his Correspondents, Messrs. J. & R.
M'Cracken, 7 Old Jewry, London.
, . .

"
j; FRANKFORT 0. ^5.'.' '

.
, l \7 : ' : v
BING
JUNK.
AND
CO.
KEIl, Wo. 31,

(opposite the hotel de russie,)
MANUFACTORY OF ARTICLES IN STAG'S HORN,
DEPOT OF DRESDEN,. CHINA.
copy op TfiE Statue op ariadne.
*rAHi kinds oy Parisian Fancy Articles.,
, ', i V. b -.^L~dL~~-5^'
" ii
Messrs. BING Jun. and Co. beg respectfully to invite the Public to visit their
Establishment, where they have always on show, and for sale, a most extensive
Assortment of Articles in Stag's Horn, of their own manufacture ; consisting of
Brooches, Ear-rings, Bracelets, Pen and Pencil Holders, Seals, Inkstands, Watchstands, Snuff-boxes, Cigar-boxes, Whips, Walking-sticks, Knives, Card-cases, and
every description of article for the Writing and Work Table, besides Vases and
other ornamental objects too various to be here enumerated.
Messrs. BiNG have also the-finest Copies, both in Biscuit-China and Bronze, of
the Statue of Ariadne, the chef-d'oeuvre of the Sculptor Dannecker, of which
the original is in Bethmari's Museum at Frankfort 0^ M.
Messrs. Bino have likewise the Sole DepSt in FRANKFORT.of ihe Porcelain of
the Royal Manufactory of Dresden ; and at their Establishment may be seen the
most splendid assortment of Figures after the Ancient Models, ornamented with
Lace-work of the most extraordinary fineness ; likewise Dinner, Dessert, and Tea
Services; Plates, Vases, Candelabras, Baskets, &c. &c, in the Antique Style,
ornamented with flowers in relief, and the finest paintings.
Besides the above-named objects, they have a superb assortment of Clocks,
Bronzes, Porcelain, and other Fancy Objects, the productions of Germany, France,
and England.
. .. ,
,
, , ,, , . . v ..]
DEPOT OF THE VERITABLE EAU DE COLOGNE OF JEAN MARIA
FARINA, OF COLOGNE.",
4ST Their Correspondents in London are J. and R. M'CrACKEN, 7, Old JewryV
FRAN KF ORT 6. if. 0

j y
, ,
r" . - ,
, .
V T .' { ;
P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR,
(LATE .FRANCIS STElGERWALD,)
ZKII , JSo. 17,
3FAMCT". GLASS jSlESIO CRYSTAL
' WAlEHOHJSIEo "
P. A- TACCHI'S STJCCESSOB begs to acquaint the Fublic that

he has become the Purchaser of Mr. F. Steigerwald's Establisbment in this Town, for the Sale of Bohemian Fancy Cut Glass and
Crystals.
.
i
He has always an extensive and choice Assortment of the Newest

and most Elegant Patterns of
ORNAMENTAL GUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, 4 PAINTED GLASS,
BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, -. , . ; ,x ,
In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Articles for the Table and Toilet,
and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manu
facture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of
the favours of the Public, which the late well-known House enjoyed
in an eminent degree during a considerable number of years.
P. A. Tacchi's Successor has Branch Establishments during the
Season at ,
, . ;
.
,
..
WIESBADEN AND EMS, - 1
"Where will always be found Selections of the newest Articles from Jus
principal Establishment.
.. i .-.
./ .
i . : .-t
.' :
His Agents in 'England, & whom he undertakes to forward Pur
chases made of him, are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry,
London,
j
10

COLOGNE
JOHN
O.
MARIA
RHINE.
FARINA
(OPPOSITE THE JXTLICHS PLACE),

PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA;
TO H. M. F. W. UI., KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA;
THE KING OF HANOVER, ETC. ETC,
or THE
ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE.
THE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most
part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request
the attention of English travellers to the following statement:
Since the first establishment of my house in 1709, there has never been any partner in
the business who did not bear the name of Farina, nor has the manufacture of a second
and cheaper quality of Eau de Cologne ever been attempted. Since 1828, however,
several inhabitants of Cologne have entered into engagements with Italians of the name of
Farina, and, by employing that name, have succeeded to a very great extent in foisting an
inferior and spurious article upon the Public
But they have in this rivalry in trade not been satisfied with the mere usurpation of my
name ; the concluding phrase, "opposite the Julich's Place" which had so long existed my
special property, was not allowed to remain in its integrity. To deceive and lead astray
again those of the public who are not fully conversant with the locality and circumstances,
the competition seized hold of the word " opposite" and more than once settled in iny
immediate neighbourhood, that they might avail themselves to the full extent of the phrase
"opposite the Julich's Place," When tried before the courts, the use only of the word
" opposite " was forbidden, which, however, has been supplied by the word " at " or 14 near,"
with the addition of the number of their houses. It is true, another less flagrant, but not
less deceitful invention was, that several of my imitators established the sites of their
manufactories in other public places of the town, to enable them to make use of the phrase
" opposite Place-, or Market" on their address cards or labels, speculating, with respect
to the proper name "Jidich," on the carelessness or forgetfulness of the consumer. I there
fore beg to inform all strangers vfeiting Cologne that my establishment, which has existed
since 1709, is exactly opposite the Julich's Place, forming the corner of the two streets,
Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23 ; and that it may be the more easily
recognised, I have put up the arms of England, Russia, &c &c, in the front of my house.
By calling the attention of the public to this notice, I hope to check that system of imposi
tion which has been so long practised towards foreigners by coachmen, valets-de-place, and
others, who receive bribes from the vendors of the many spurious compounds sold under my
name.
A new proof of the excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the
fact of the Jury of the Great Exhibition in London having awarded me the Prize MedalSee the Official Statement in No. 20,934, page 6, of the ' Times' of this month.
Cologne, October, 1851.
J. M. FARINA,
Opposite the Julich's Place.
*** My Agents in London are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry,
by whom orders are received for me.
11
DRESDEN.
MAGAZINE OF ANTIQUITIES AND FINE ARTS.

HELENA WOLFSOM,
nee MEYER,
(SUCCESSOR OF L. METER AND SONS,)

S, 8CHXOS8EHGASSE,
Begs respectfully to solicit the inspection of her Establishment, where she has
always on show and for sale a most extensive assortment of Old Saxon China, Old
Sevres and Japan, Antique Furniture, Bronzes, Old Lace, such as Points de
Bruxelles and d'Alen9on, Points de Venise, Guipure, &c. &c. Venetian, Ruby,
and Painted Glass, Rock Crystal, Ivory Work, Enamels, Mosaic Work, Armour,
Gobelins Tapestry, Fans, and many other remarkable and curious articles.
HER CORRESPONDENTS IN ENGLAND ARE
Messrs. J. & R. M'CKACKEN", 7, Old Jewry, London.
WILLIAM
HOFMANN,'
BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER,

TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OP AUSTRIA,
Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in
Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold,
at the same moderate prices, at both his Establishments
At Prague, Botel Blue Star; at Vienna, 768, lugeck.
Agents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.
Goadsforwarded direct to England, America, $c.
LEGHORN.
CARLSBAD.
HIACINTH MICALI AND SON,

Via Ferdinanda, So. 1230.
Manufactory of Marble, Alabaster, and
Scagliola Tables, and Depot of objects of
Fine Arts.
Their extensive Show-rooms are always
open to Visitors.
THEIR AQENT8 IN ENGLAND ABB
MESSES. J. AND B. M'CRACKEN,
1. Old Jewry, London.
THOMAS WOLF,
MANUFACTURER of
ORNAMENTAL GLASS WARES.
Thomas Wolf begs to inform the Visitors
to Carlsbad that at his Establishment will be
found the finest and richest Assortment of
the Crystal and Glass Wares of Bohemia
CORRESPONDENTS IN ENGLAND:
Messrs. J. Sc R. M'CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISES.

yi EN n#v
White and Colowreil Crystal Glass Wirek
JOSEPH LOBMEYR,
GLASS MANUPACTUB, E Jif ,
f
No. 940, KARNTHNERSTSAS3E, '
BeOS to inform Visitors to Vienna that he has considerably enlarged his Esta
blishment. The most complete assortment of all kinds of Bohemian ^hite and
Coloured Crystal Glass, and of ell articles jn this branch of industry, in the
newest and most elegant style, is always on hand. 'The rich collections of all
Articles of Luxury, viz. Table, Dessert, and other Services, Vases, Candebabras,
Lustres, Looking-glasses, &c. 8tc, will, he feels assured, satisfy every visitor.
The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges.The English
language is spoken.
His Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'Cracken, No. 7, Old
Jewry, London, will execute all orders with the greatest care and attention.
Everything for the Tourist. CART'S IMPROVED POCKET
TOURIST'S TELESCOPE.
DRESSING-CASKS.At Mr. MECHI'S
(See * JtyfTatfs Handbook.')
Establishments, In, Regent Street, 4, Leadenball Street, and Crystal Palace, are EX
Just
published, 16th Edition,
HIBITED the FINEST SPECIMENS of
BRITISH MANUFAQTURKS, m Dressing GvULB'S COMPANION TO TBE
Cases, Work Boxes. Writing OaseB, Dressing
Bags, and other articles of utility or luxury,
MICROSCOPE.
suitable for presentation. A separate De
partment torPapier Mache Manufactures and
liâielle Tables. Table Cutlery Rars,Scis- j Qary, Mathematical and Optical Instru
sors, Pen-knives, Strops, Paste, &c. Shipping
orders executed. An extensive assortment ment Maker to the AdmiraJty and Roval
of superior Hair and other Toilet Brashes.' i Military Coltege, &c. &c, 181, Strand.
FEANKPORT O. M.
MESSRS L0HB^
PROPRIETORS OP
THE ROMAN' EMPEROR HOTEL,
Beg to recommend their House to English Travellers.
This large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate
superintendence of the Proprietors, and newly furnished with every comfort, and
a new splendid Dining-room.
"'
* l*-*-'*1' "4| f '' 'I
The " Roman Emperor " is often honoured by Royal Families and other high
personages. The following hare lately honoured this Hotel
H.M* THE KiN< AND QUT5EK OF WURTEMBERG.
H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND.
H.R.IL THE CROWN, PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLOA OF WURTEMBERG.
H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA, tec kc. Ac
- Tabkwi'beW at 1, Ifl. 30kr.
' Breakfast, 42kr.
. . s. SMU.V
Tea. 4Zkr.
Bed Booms, from 111, to 3fl.

BERLIN.
,
C,
HARSCH & CO.,

67, Unter den linden,
FAMtDY
(BILAeS WAMIKQTOl,
Beg to call the attention of Visitors to their Extensive Assortment of

BOHEMIAN, BAVARIAN, AND SILESIAN GLASS*
CONSISTING OP
' . . ARTICLES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION1,
OF THE NEWEST AND MOST ELEGAHT PATTERNS.
Their Correspondents in London are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry.
ARGUS LIFE ASSURANCE COMPANY,
39, THROGMORTON STREET, BANK.
CainorASTHOMAS FAENCOMB, Esq., Alderman.
DuPDn-CHintWANWILLIAM LEAF, Esq.
Rich. E. Arden, Esq. I Professor Hall, M.A. I Bupert lngleby,Esq. | Jeremiah Pilcher. Esq.
Edward Bates, Esq. [ J.Humphery,Esq.Ald. | Sw W.. Johnson, Esq. | Lewis Pocock, Esq.
PhtsioiahDr. Jeaffreson, 2, Finsbury Square.
SoboeonW. Coulson, Esq., 2, Frederick's Place, Old Jewry.
ActuabyGeorge Clark, Esq.
The profit assigned to each policy can he
ADVANTAGES OP ASSURING added
to the sum assured, applied In reduction'
IN THIS COMPANY. '
of the annual premium, or be received in cash.
The Premiums are on the lowest scale con At the first division a return of 20 per cent,
in cash on the premiums paid was declared ;
sistent with security.
The Assured are protected by a subscribed tbi will allow a reversionary increase vary
Capital of 300,0001., an Assurance Fund of ing, according to age, from 68 to 28 per cent,
450,0001., invested on mortgage and in the on the premiums, or from 5 to 15 per cent, onGovernment Stocks, and an income of 85,0001. the sum assured.
One-half of the "Whole Term" Premium
a-year.
may remain on credit for seven years, or oneWhole Term.
third of the Premium may remain for life as
Premiums to aure lOOi.
a debt upon the Policy at 5 per cent, or may
be paid off at any time without notice.
Without
With.
Sew* Profits.
One Years.
Profits.
*& Year.
Claims paid in one month after proofs have
been
approved.
17 8 0I 198 97 18 155 105 18 110 107
0118
Loans upon approved security..
4090 11 145 01 11 190 109 48 06 87 24 140 10U
No charge for Policy stamps.
Medical attendants paid for their reports.
00 8 2 4 8 17 0 6 12 9 6 0 10
Persons may, in time of peace, proceed to or
mutual branch.
reside in any part of Europe or British North
America
without extra charge.
Assurers on the Bonus System are entitled The medical
officers attend every day at a
at the end of five years to participate in niue- quarter before two
o'clock.
tenths, or 90 per cent., of the profits.
E. BATES, Resident Director.
FOREIGN CREDITS AND CIRCULAR NOTES.

THE NATIONAL BANK OF SCOTLAND GRANT CREDITS of 10
and upwards, available for Travellers, Foreign Residents, Military and Naval Officers
on Foreign Service. Emigrants, &c, and also for Business purposes, in all the principal
places on the CONTINENT, MEDITERRANEAN, MADEIRA, EAST and WEST
Indies, cape of good hope, Australia and new Zealand, united
STATES, CANADA, &c Stc.
These Credits may be obtained at the Head Office, and at the Glasgow and Dundee
Branches, or through any of the other Branches of the Bank.
National Bank of Scotland, Edinburgh, April, 1858.
S O R R E N T O.
GRAND HOTEL VILLA NAHM, BY WILLIAM TRAMONTANO.

THIS Hotel, which has recently been greatly altered and enlarged, is beautifully
situated on the borders of the Sea, and commands an uninterrupted and extensive view
of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius.
The Landlady is English, and gives her particular attention to Cleanliness and Cooking,
and the general comfort of Visitors.
Large and small Apartments looking on to the Bay. An excellent Table d'Hfite daily
Baths, and Barques for Capri. French, English, and German spoken. Charges moderate.
FOREIGN LANGUAGES.
ORIGINAL AND COMPLETE EDITIONS OF
AHN'S FOREIGN GEAMMAES,
Ann's Remodelled German Grammar and
Key, 1857, cloth, 4*. 6cZ.; French Grammar
and Key, 3rd edition, 1858, cloth, 45. 6tZ. ;
Italian Grammar and Key, 2nd edition, 1857,
cloth, 5s. ; Spanish Grammar and Key, cloth,
6s. ; Portuguese Grammar, 1857, cloth, 4s. ;
Swedish Grammar, 1858, cloth, 4s.; Danish
Grammar, 1858, cloth, 4s.; Dutch Grammar,
cloth, 4s. ; Latin Grammar, cloth, 3s.
The method of Ahn, now of European cele
brity, is most simple and rational, and is emi
nently adapted for Self-tuition, for School use,
and for a comparative study of European
Languages.
FOREIGN DIALOGUES,
On an entirely new and practical plan, calcu
lated to insure a rapid acquisition of Foreign
Languages, l2mo. cloth. German and English
Dialogues, by Meissner, 2s. 6(3.; French and
English ditto, by Dudevant, 2s. 6t. ; Italian
and English ditto, by Marchezzi, 2s. Gd. ;
Spanish and English ditto, by Salvo, 2s. 6iZ. ;
Swedish by Lenstrom, Danish by Lund, each
2s. 6d. ; Dutch by Harlen, Portuguese by Monteiro, each 2s. 6d. ; Turkish, Russian, English,
and French Vocabulary, for Travellers in the
East, 2s. 6d.
Published by Mr. Franz Thtmm, Publisher
and Foreign Bookseller, 3, Brook Street, Grosvenor Square, London; and at 32, Princess
Street, Manchester.
P.S.Travellers can order these Grammars
and Dialogues through any Continental Book
seller.
QXFORD lies on the road to Bath,

Bristol, Clifton, and the West of Eng
land ; to Leamington, Warwick, Kenilworth,
Stratford-on-Avon, Birmingham, Worcester,
Wolverhampton, Chester, Manchester, Liver
pool, and the North; to Cheltenham, Glou
cester, and South Wales. In its neighbour
hood are Blenheim, Nuneham, and other
places of interest.
VISITORS TO OXFORD
(a central point for Railway Travellers)
are invited to inspect
SPIERS AND SON'S
ESTABLISHMEITTS.
102 dk 103, High St., 45 & 46 Cornmarlcet St.,
and 24, Newinnhall St.,
Where will be found one of the largest and
most varied Stocks in the kingdom of
USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL MANUFACTURES,
Suitable for Presents, or for Remembrances
of Oxford.
At the Great Exhibition in London, of
1851, and in Paris, of 1855, "Honourable
Mention " was awarded to their Papier Mache*
Manufactures ; and at the New York Exhi
bition of 18S3, the " Prize Medal."
15
To Tourists in Britain {^.SEEtSS?

In neat Portable Volumes, profusely illustrated by Maps, Charts, and Views of
the Scenery, and containing full particulars regarding Hotels, Distances, and
whatever is likely to prove useful or instructive to the Tourist.
England, 10/6.
Yorkshire, 1/6 & 2/.
English Lake District, 5/.
Scotland, 8/6.
Do. Illustrated Edition, 7/6.
Highlands (Anderson's), 10/6.
Wales, North and South, 5/.
Trosachs, 1/6.
Worth Wales, separately, 3/6. Staffa and Zona, 1/6.
Derby and Warwick shires, Edinburgh and Environs, 2/6.
each 1/6 6. 2/.
Glasgow and Environs, 2/6.
Devon and Cornwall, 1/6 tu 2/.
Hampshire (Isle of Wight) 1/6 Ireland, 5/.
Dublin, Sillarney, each 1/6.
&. 2/.
ROAD AND RAILWAY TRAVELLING MAPS.
Carefully constructed from the Maps of the Ordnance Survey and other Authorities, and
containing all the Roads, Railroads, Villages, Country Seats, Fishing Streams, Rivers, Lakes,
and Mountains, and every Topographical Information required by the Tourist on pleasure or
business. Mounted or printed on cloth, and neatly bound in portable cases.
* >
England, 32 x 22i. 4/6.
Ireland, 20 x ui. 2/6.
English Lakes, 19 X 14. 2/6.
Germany, it X 24. 4/6.
Wales, If. &. S. 14 X lii. each 1/6. Europe, 3 feet by 4. 18/. Scotland, 32 X 221. 4/6.
Scotch Counties, each 1/.
Smaller Maps at 2s. 6d. and Is. each.
PROFESSOR FORBES'S WORKS ON SWITZERLAND
AND NORWAY.
THE TOUR OF MONT RLANC AND OF MONTE ROSA:
Being a Personal Narrative, abridged from the Author's * Travels in, the Alps of Savoy.'
With a Map of the Mer do Glace of Chamouni and neighbouring district ; containing im
portant additions and corrections from the Author's more recent observations. In reap.
Cloth, Price 5" An admirable edition, and the Map of the Mer de Glace most correct and valuable."
Albert Smith.
NORWAY AND ITS GLACIERS VISITED IN 1851.
Followed by Journals of Excursions in the High Alps of Dauphine", Berne, and Savoy
With Two Maps and numerous Illustrations. Koyal 8vo. Cloth, Price 21s.,
Recently Published,
MADEIRA, ITS CLIMATE AND SCENERY:
A Handbook for Invalid and other Visitors. By Robert White. Second Edition. Edited
by James Yatk Johnson. With Map, Crown 8vo. Is. 6d.
" Tlie most complete and trustworthy Guide Book to Madeira yet published."Literary
Gazette.
Edinburgh : A. & C. BLACK. London : LONGMAN & CO. ;
& SMITH & SON, Strand ; and all Booksellers.
is
MURRA.rS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

FRANKFORT O. M.
FRIEDBIGH
BOHLEE,
MANUFACTORY OF STAGHOM,
Zeil No. 54 (next door to the Post-Office).
Furniture op every description, as Sofas, Chairs, Tables, &c. &c. Chan
deliers, Table and Hand Candlesticks, Shooting-tackle, Inkstands, Paperknives, Penholders, Seals, &c. Knives, Riding-whips, Cigar-cases and
Holders, Pipes, Match-boxes, Porte-monnaies, Card-cases, Thermometers,
Goblets, Candle-screens, Figures and Groups of Animals executed after
Eiedinger and others. Brooches, Bracelets, Earrings, Shirt-pins, Studs, and
Buttons. Stag and Deer Heads with Antlers attached to the SkulL Sofarugs or Foot-cloths of Skins of Wild Animals with Head preserved.
Orders for a Complete Set or for any quantity of Furniture will be
promptly executed.
The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. McCracken, 7, Old Jewry.
J

FRANKFORT

FRIEMICH
17
O. M.
BOHLEE,
Pendules (Ornamental Clocks) of every description, Vases, Goblets, Antique

and Modern Statuettes and Groups, Groups of Animals, Inkstands,
Paper-weights, &c. &c, in Bronze, Cast Iron, Galvano-plastic, &c.
Crown-chandeliers ; Branch, Table, and Hand Candlesticks, in Bronze,
&c. ; Lamps of every description.
Porcelain and Britannia-metal Goods, Liqueur-chests.
Travelling Dressing-cases, Railroad Companions, Picnic-baskets, Tra
velling Bags, Brushes, Combs.
Work-tables and Boxes, Tapestries, Fans, Ball-books, Smelling-bottles,
Opera-Glasses, &c. &c.
Superior Copies of the Ariadne by Dannecker, and the Amazon by Kiss.
Genuine Eau de Cologne of Jean Maria Farina, opposite the Jiilichsplatz.
The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. McChacken, 7, Old Jewry.
c
18

PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE,
LONDON", 69, FLEET STREET, E. C.
PASTIES residing in any part of the

United Kingdom or London, who desire
to avoid delay, trouble, or expense, can
have their PASSPORTS obtained and
duly vised, with the utmost expedition
and despatch upon application by Letter,
or otherwise, to Mr. W. J. ADAMS
(Bradshaw's British and Continental
Guide Office), 69, Fleet Street, as above.
Country Residents, by this arrangement, are saved the trouble of coming
to London about their Passport, as it can be forwarded to them by Post
{en Regie).
Forfull particular*, see Bradshaw's Continental Guide, pages xxix to xxxiv.
The countersignature of the American Minister in London obtained to United
States Passports.
Passports carefully mounted, and Names lettered thereon in Gold.
Passport Cases, from \s. 6d. to 6s. each. Cash Belts, Straps, &c.
Travelling Desks.
Cash Bags and Purses.
Students' & Portable Travelling Cases.
Travelling Bags (Leather).
Pocket and Memorandum Books.
Travelling and Pocket Inkstands.
Polyglot Washing Books for Ladies
Travelling Soaps.
or Gentlemen English and French
Shaving do.
Door & Window Fasteners & Alarms.
Italian German Spanish
Travelling roll -up Writing Cases.
Portuguese, Is. each ; per Post,
Travelling Pocket Memorandum and Is. Id.
Writing Cases.
Family do., Is. 6d. each ; per Post,
Travelling Luggage Labels, adhesive. Is. Id.
Do.
do.
Parchment. Foreign Post Note Paper, Envelopes,
Courier Bags. Carpet do.
&c. &c.
And every description of Stationery, British and Foreign.
THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS.
Phrase Books, French and German Dictionaries.
Bradshaw's British and Continental Guides.
Bradshaw's Special Continental Guide and Handbook.
Bradshaw's Descriptive Guide and Illustrated Handbook of Great Britain
and Ireland, with Map, &c. Ditto of France, Belgium, Switzerland, Paris,
India, London, &c.
Dr. Lee's Continental Books on Climates, Scenery, and Remedial Resources ;
Notes on Spain, its Climate, &c. ; Nice and its Climate.
Adams's Guides to the Watering-places of England ; boards, 2s.
Adams's English Lakes, &c, Is.
Addresses of experienced Couriers may be had on application to
W. J. ADAMS (Bradshaw's British and Continental Guide Office),
LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E.C.
J
1 19
BONN ON THE RHINE.
MR.
SOHMITZ,
PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL,

Begs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The
apartments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms
are carpeted ; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the winecellar, is well provided. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no firstrate Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and more
cleanliness.
The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following
Members of the English Royal Family :
(H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by General Sir W. Codringtok,
Colonel Ponsonbt, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Armstrong, Rev. F. C.
Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc.
9n If H. R.Star
H. the
Wales and
a visit at the Golden
0 '* g' '6U
MotelPrince
to Hisof Majesty
the his
KingSuite
of thepaying
Belgians.
1857. Aug. S H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite.
1857 Julv 29 I
tne ûcuesa of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge,
1 ' ' ' - ( accompanied by the Baron Knesebeck and Suite.
[ H. R. H. the Prince of Wales paying a visit at the Golden Star ITotel to
I T. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge,
j HT R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by the Right Honourable C.
1857. July 15 \ Grey, General Major, Colonel Ponsonbt, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr.
'
Armstrong, Rev. F. C. Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc.
I85fl Nov i
Prmce Alfred of Great Britain, accompanied by Lieutenant*( General Sir Frederick Stovin and Lieutenant Cuwell.
IH. M. Adelaide, Queen JJowager of Great Britain, accompanied by
His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and Lady Barrington, Sir David Davies, M.D., Rev. J. R. Wood, M.A., Captain
Taylor, &c. &c., honoured the above establishment with a Three
Days' Visit.
1818. May . . H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite.
1825. March ( H. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (King William IV. and
and Sept. . ( Queen Adelaide) and Suite.
iiv . . |i M.Earl
Queen
Adelaide,of accompanied
theCountess
Earl andHowe,
Countess
las*. JT uiy
ami Countess
Denbigh, Earlbyand
&c.of Errol
1836. Aug. . H. R. H. the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite.
1837. July. . H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite.
1839. Nov. . H. R. H. the Prince George of Cambridge aud Suite.
v" " (( H. R.Ernest
H. Prince
Albert
of Saxe
Coburg
Gotha,
of Saxe
Coburg
Gotha,
and their
Suite.accompanied by Prince
_
f H. R. H. the Duchess ofCambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta
1840
\, . of Cambridge, and their Suite. .
f H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the
1841. . . -. .
prince of Leiningen.
1841. .... H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite.
.... H. R. H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge.
1844
H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite,
.... H. R, H. Princess Mary of Cambridge.
T
(
H,
H. theof Leiningen.
Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the
J845. June .j R.Prince
....
T
.
i
T.
R.
H.
the
1847. Juiy . ^ guiMv Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family and
C 2
20
ROYAL INSURANCE COMPANY,

ROYAL INSURANCE BUILDINGS,
Sort li John .Street, and Dale Street, Liverpool,
AND
29, LOMBARD STREET, LONDON.
Capital2,000,000 in 100,000 Shares of 20 each.
THE City Article of the London Times, of the 24th of July 1856, states
that the transactions of the Royal Insurance Company " appear to
have been of a perfectly satisfactory character." It includes the following
statements confirmatory of that opinion :
PREMIUMS.
The
Premiums
pggjnoA
stated
to be of Nine Offices enumerated are?i 8-J4,H<24
the Royal
amounts to
371,057 eight
being Of
82 which
per cent,
of thealone
accumulated
Premiums of the remaining
Companies.
EXPENDITURE.
The accumulated Expenditure
of 54 Life Offices enumerated by The
Times of 12th August, 1856, compared with their amount of Premium and
Interest, is stated to be 61 per cent. ; the Expenditure of the Royal Insur
ance Company is only 13 per cent.
In like manner the entire RESOURCES.
Funds in hands of thirteen Offices are quoted in
The Times at 1,238,688, including the " KoyaL" which alone is 372,384,
and which is, therefore, equal to 43 per Cent, of the accumulated Funds
of the remaining twelve Offices, viz. for the year 1855, Since increased to
600,000.
The following figures exhibit the RAPID GROWTH AND INCREASING
RESOURCES OF THE COMPANY :
" ~ Whilst last year, 1857, they
Fire Premiums-1848 .. 31,346
were
175,000
1850 . . 44.027 Total
Revenue, 1857, all
1852 .. 76,925
sources
260,000
*
1854
.. 128,459 Increase
1856
on One Year alone 40,000
1856 .... i&j.,73i>
151,733
Funds in hand, to meet any claims, over 600,000.
LIFE.
BONUS
1855,on ages from Twenty
Amounting to 2 perLARGE
cent, per annum
on the DECLARED
Sum Assured : being,
to Forty, 80 per cent, on the Premium.
PERIODS OF DIVISIONEVERY FIVE 1EAKS.
PROGRESS OF THE LIFE BRANCH.
New Policies forFIRE
the Year
ending
PREMIUMS.
SUM ASSURED.
PREMIUM.
June,
1855
396
166,864
4,867
1856
654
288.321
8,370
1857
756
391,158
11,894
Thus the New Assurers for the Year ending June, 1857, are 160 per cent,
above those for the Year ending June, 1855.
PERCY M. DOVE, Actuary and Manager.
Th Company is willing to consider the propriety of establishing Agencies in
Foreign places, where it has not at present any Representatives. Applicationsfrom
Gentlemen ofthe highest position and character will alone receive attention.

PELICAN LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY,
Established in 1797.
70, Lombard Street, City, and 57, Charing Cross, Westminster.
DIRECTORS.
Henry Grace, Esq.
Robert Gurney Barclay, Esq.
Klrkman D. Hodgson, Esq., M.P.
Octavlus E. Coope, Esq.
Henry Lancelot Holland, Esq.
William Cotton, D.C.L., F.R.S.
Benjamin Shaw, Esq.
John Davis, Esq.
Matthew Whiting, Esq.
William Walter Fuller, Esq.
M. WyvilLJun., Esq., M.P.
Jas. A. Gordon, M.D., F.R.S.
This Company offers : COMPLETE SECURITY.
MODERATE RATES of Premium with Participation in Four-fifths, or Eighty per cent.,
of the Profits.
LOW RATES without Participation in Profits.
In connection with Life Assurance, on approved Security, in sums of not less than 500.
ANNUAL PREMIUM
Required for the Assurance of 1001. for the whole term of life :
Age.
Without
Profits.
1 11 0
1 13 10
2 10
With
Profits.
1 IS 0
1 19 3
2 10 4
Age.
Without
Profits.
*2 18 10
4 0 9
6 10
With
Profits.
3 6 5
4 10 7
6 7 4
40
15
50
20
60
30
For Prospectuses and Forms of Proposal apply at the Offices as above, or to any of the
Company's Agents.
ROBERT TUCKER, Secretary.
THE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Circular Notes of 10
each, payable at every important place in Europe. These Notes are issued without
charge, and they are cashed abroad free of commission. The Bank also issues, free of charge.
Letters of Credit on all the principal cities and towns In Europe. The Letters of Credit
are issued only at the head office, in Lothbury. The Circular Notes may be obtained at the
head office, in Lothbury, or at any of the Branches, viz. :
Westminster Branch, 1, St. James's Square.
Bloomsbury 214 High Holborn.
Southwark
3, Wellington Street, Borough.
Eastern
87, High Street, Whitechapel.
Marylebone 4, Stratford Place, Oxford Street.
Temple Bar 217, Strand.
May 1, 1858.
J. W. GILBART, General Manager.
LUCERNE (SWITZERLAND).
MR. JOHN REBER,
PROPRIETOR OF THE ENGLISH HOTEL,
(ENGLISCHER EOF).
rpHIS SPLENDID HOTEL is situated on the borders of the LAKE OF THE
J- FOUR CANTONS. The views from the balconies of the Hotel are of the most splendid
description. Many of the rooms command the view of the magnificent chain of the Alps,
Mount Pilate, and the Righi. The ENGLISH HOTEL contains sixty rooms provided with
every comfort. This new and very clean Establishment is one of the first-ranked hotels in
Switzerland, and deservedly patronised by the English. The Heading Room of the Hotel
is furnished with English and American Papers, The Timet and Ualignani.
22
Give perfect freedom from Coughs in Ten Minutes, and instant relief and a rapid cure of
Asthma and Consumption, Coughs, Colds, and all Disorders of the Breath and Lungs,
Cure of 29 Years' Asthmatic Cough.
Middleton, near Manchester.
Sir,I am now 44 years of age, and I have been afflicted with an asthmatic cough since
I was a boy of fifteen years of age; during that time I have resorted to every means in
ray power to remove it, but in vain, until last Sunday, when I sent for a small box of Dr.
liocock's Wafers. I have taken two boxes since, and from the effects they have had upon
me I feel no doubt of a speedy recovery.
G. STRINGER.
Witness, M. Lynch, Chemist, Market-street.
The particulars of many hundreds of Cures may be had from every Agent throughout the
Kingdom.
To Singers and Public Speakers they are invaluable, as in a few hour*
they remove all hoarseness, and wonderfully increase the power and flexibility of the voice.
Thet have a pleasant Taste.
Price Is. lid., 2s, 9d and lis. per box. Sold by all Medicine Vendors.
IMPORTANT CAUTION.It has beenjiiscovered^hatjnany Medicine Vendors, when
asked for any of LOCOCS'S MEDICINES, attempt to pass off instead
they have u greater profit in doing so than by selling the genuine
some counterfei
:autionf.d against such dishonest practices, which may be detected
is cautioned
d
Medicine : the F _
of the GENUINE
box
S taat.
in
White
Letters
on
dedicine
D1.1 LOCOGKS
Governmant Stamp,
Bed
WATERS
ALL ARE COUNTERand without which words
PEITS AND AN
EVERY SATURDAY, PRICE FOURPENCE, OF ANY BOOKSELLER,
THE ATHENJETJM
JOURNAL OF LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND ART.
(stamped to go free by post, 5d.) Contains :
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Reports of the Proceedings of the Learned and Scientific Societies, with Abstracts of all
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Biographical Notices of Men distinguished in Literature, Science, and Art.
Original Papers and Poems.
Weekly Gossip.
IVIiscellaneai including all that is likely to interest the informed and intelligent.
. THE ATEENÛM
is bo conducted that the reader, however far distant, is, in respect to Literature, Science,
and the Arts, on an equality in point of information with the best-informed circles of the
Metropolis.
*#* The ATHENAiUM is published every Saturdayt but is re-issued each Month stitched
in a Wrapper.
The Volume for 1856, complete in itself, and containing about 1624 large quarto Pages, with
Title-page and index, may be had of any Bookseller, price One Guinea.
Office for Advertisements, 14, Wellington Street North, Strand, London, W. C.
23
NEW
TOURIST'S MAP OF SCOTLAND.
BY A. K. JOHNSTON, F.E.G.S., F.E.8.E., &o.
Size, 3 feet by 2 feet, containing 7439 Names of Places. Price 7s. 6rf. in a case
for the Pocket ; accompanied by an Alphabetical Li3t of the Names in the Map.
This Work, constructed at great expense from the Trigonometrical and Detail
Surveys of the Boards of Ordnance and Admiralty, and an extensive collection of
private and unpublished Materials, is the only general Map which represents the
true Physical and Topographical Features of the Country.
The assertion, bold as it is, seems fully borne out by the work itself.'Scotsman.
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinburgh and London.
On Four Sheets Imperial, beautifully printed in Colours,
A
GEOLOGICAL MAP OF EUROPE.

By SIB B. I. MURCHISON, D.C.L., M.A., F.B.S., &c. ;
And JAMES NICOL, F.E.S.E., F.G.S.
Constructed by A. KEITH JOHNSTON, F.B.S.E., &o.
Size, 4 feet 2 by 3 feet 5 inches. Price in Sheets, 31. 3s. ; in a Cloth Case,
4to., 31. 10s.
On Four Sheets Imperial, carefully coloured, price in Sheets, 30s. ; or in 4to,
Cloth Case, for Travelling, 21. 2s.,
A
NEW
MAP
OF
EUROPE.
By A. KEITH JOHNSTON, F.B.S.E., &c.
NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION.
THE
PHYSICAL ATLAS
OF NATURAL
PHENOMENA.
By A. K. JOHNSTON, F.B.S.E., &c.
Consistng of 35 large and 7 small Plates, printed in Colours ; and 145 folio
pages d7 Text and Index. In imperial folio, half-bound in russia or morocco,
price 12. 12s.
24

CORNWALL MINING DISTRICT.
Mineralogy and Geology.
LAVI VS Ht NlH U, C UAPEL MTUKET, PENZANCE.
views,
handbooks,
pocket-maps,
ETC.
STUDENTS of Mineralogy and Geology, and Tourists to the Sceneiy, Antiquities,

and Mines of Cornwall, will be interested by a visit to this Museum. The Collection
of Cornish Minerals is unique, and contains specimens of the most interesting and rare sub
stances, with perfect crystallizations, for which the above County has been 60 justly
celebrated. Selections made for Purchasers on various Scales.
Minerals scientifically arranged in Trays containing 100, with descriptive Catalogue,
from ll. 5s. to 'il. Larger Specimens neatly set In a Mahogany Cabinet at 5i. More extensive
Selections and first-rate specimens from 201. to 50Z. and upwards.
Geological Selections, comprehending Specimens of the various Rocks of the County
from ll. upwards.
8^* A specimen of Carbonate of Iron, from Wheal Maudlin Mine, for which the sumof
130Z. has been refused; as well as a great many others presumed to be unrivalled.
A large Assortment of the Lizard Serpentine Ornaments.
Views of Scenery and Antiquities, Handbooks, Pocket-Maps of Cornwall and Devon.
Prompt attention given to all Orders from a distance.
ZURICH. HOTEL BELLE VUE,
By C. GUJER.
This excellent first-rate establishment, re
cently constructed, strongly recommended
for its comfort and cleanliness, is in the
best and most delightful situation on the
bank of the lake opposite the landing-place
of the steamers, commanding from its
windows an extensive view over the lake,
the Alps, and glaciers, as well as the quay
and the town. It comprises upwards of 80
beds and 6 sitting-rooms, with separated
breakfast and spacious dining saloons, a
splendid and good restaurant a la carte, and
English newspapers. Prices are moderate, a
list of which will be found in each bed-room.
Tables-d'bSte at 1 and 5 o'clock. Flys to
meet alt trains; a small boat meeting the
steamers. English spoken by the servants.
From October till Muy a good pension
(board) on reduced terms.
J. H. KEREZ,
CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST,
ZURICH,
D ESPECTFULLY announces to "onr^ ists and Visitors that he prepares and
dispenses Medicines and Prescriptiois ac
cording to the English Pharmacopoeia with
the purest and choicest Drugs and Chenicals.
J. H. Kkrkz, having been a princijal dis
pensing Assistant at one of the firstHouses
in England, hopes that his 'experieice and
attention will merit the support an! confi
dence of the English Nobility and Gtfitry.
J. H. K. keeps constantly on han* a wellselected Stock of the most popular English
Patent Medicines and Perfumery.
25'
SIR WALTER SCOTT'S WRITINGS AND LIFE.

WAVERLEY NOVELS,
tJ^MOhor'i
last Jntroductions, Notes, and Additions.
LIBRARY
EDITION.
Illustrated
by upwards
of
Two
Hundred
Engraving*
onStanfield,
Steel, after
Drawing*
by
Turner,
Landseer,
Willcie,
Roberts,
Ac,
Including
PortraitsComplete
of the historical
personage*
described
in
the
Novels.
in
25
volumes,
demy
8vo.,
elegantly bound in extra cloth, IS/, it. ed.
ABBOTSFORD EDITION. With One Hundred
and Twenty
ou Steel,
and nearly
Thoudred
on Wood,Engravings
In It vols,
super-royal
ttvo. Two
lit, 14*.
AUTHOR'S
FAVOURITE
EDITION,
in
portable fcap. 8vo. vols. (! 0 Engravings), jl. 4s. 48
CABINET EDITION, in 25 vols. fcap. 8vo. (26
Illustrations), 70s. 6d.
PEOPLE'S EDITION, In 5 large vols, royal
8vo. 4325.
PROSE WORKSconsisting of, Tales of

a Grandfather (History of Scotland), Tales
of a Grandfather (History of France), Life
of John Dryden, Memoirs of Jonathan
Swift, Memoirs of Eminent Novelists, &c,
Paul's Letters to his Kinsfolk, Essays on
Chivalry, Romance, and the Drama, &c,
Provincial Antiquities of Scotland, Life
of Napoleon Bonaparte, Miscellaneous
Criticisms, &c.
COMPLETE EDITIONS.
I. In 28 Vols. fcap. 8vo. with 56 Engravings
from Turner, 84a. ; separate volumes, 8s. v
II. Inin cloth,
3 Vols, royal 8vo. volumes,
(People's Edition).
Bound
each
; III. (Talks26a.of ;aseparate
Grandfather), da.I. and II. 10a.
Illustrated Edition ofthe TALES ofa GRAND
FATHER(Histort
of Scotland).
With 6 Engravings
after
Turner,
of 50 gilt
on edges,
Wood.
fcap.
8ro.
cloth,andISa.upwards
; extra cloth,
15a.In S Vols,
(History of France). With 2 Engravings
fromcloth,
Turner4s. and
of 50edges,
on Wood.
8vo.
; extraupwards
cloth, gilt
5a. 1 vol. fcap.
School Edition of the HISTORY of SCOT
LAND, with Map. 2 vols, crown Svo. bound, 10a.
LIFE of NAPOLEON BONAPARTE. 5 vols.
fcap.
Turner,Svo.
cloth,Maps,
80s, Portrait, and 9 Engravings after
Another Edition, in larger type. 9 vols. fcap.
Svo. Maps, Portraits, and Engravings, cloth, 7a.
POETICAL WORKS-consisting of, 1st.

The Metrical Romances,The Lay of the
IjAST Minstrel, Marmion.The Lady of the
Lake, Rokeby, The Loud of the Isles, The
Vision of Don Roderick, The Bridal of
Tkiermain, and Harold the Dauntless.
2nd. Duamas, Songs, and Ballads. 3rd. The
Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border.
The following are the only Copyright Editions,
with the Author's last Notes tfc Improvements.
I. In One portable fcap. Vol. including all the SELECTIONS from Sir WALTER SCOTT'S
ltomances
(exceptSongs
the * Bridal
of Triermain*
and WORKSBelgium and Waterloo, France
1Metrical
Harold'),
the Principal
and Ballads,
und several
and Paris, Tales of Chivalry, Romantic
Illustration*.
antique,
10s. Bound in cloth, gilt edges, 5a. ; morocco Narratives, Characters of Eminent Per
sons, The Highland Clans, Scottish Scenes
II. In One crown 8vo. Vol. (same contents as and
Characters, Narrative and Descrip
previous
edition),
with numerous
Engravings
ou Steel
and
Wood,Bound
after
Sir
David
Gilbert,
and
Pieces.
ter.
in cloth,
giltWilkie,
edges,Stanfield,
7s. 6d. ; morocco
ant. Fos
14s. tivePrice
Eighteenpence, or Two Shillings cloth.
III. In 12 Vols. fcp. 8vo. (24 Engravings), 36s. BEAUTIES of SIR WALTER SCOTT ; being
%*
This
is
the
only
edition
which
contains
'The
Min
Selections
his Writings
vol. crown
strelsy of the Scottish Border.*
with Two from
Engravings,
clothandgilt,Life.5a. ; 1 extra
cloth,8vo.,
gilt
IV. In 6 Vols. fcap. 8vo. (12 Engravings), 24s. sides and edges, As.
for
the
YOUNG,
from
the
Works'
V. In One Vol. royal 8vo. (PEOPLE'S EDI READINGS
of Sir Walter
Scott. 8 vols, with 36 Illustrations on
TION), 10*.
Wood,
edges, 7a.2a. ed. each ; or bound in 1 voL cloth, gilt
VI.
The
ABBOTSFORD
EDITION,
printed
on
Tinted
Paper,
upwards
on Steel
and
Wood,
after with
Turner,
Gilbert,of 60andIllustrations
Foster. Elegantly
bound
in extra
of SIR WALTER SCOTT. By J. G.
or antique,
42s. cloth, gilt edges, Sis. cd. ; morocco elegant LIFE
Lockhart, Esq. Three Editions as follows.
VII.
TOURISTS'
EDITIONS
of
The
LAY
In Ten Vols.Edition
fcap. of8vo.,
uniform20with
the Auon
ofLAKE,
the LAST
MAKMION,
of theof thor's
the Novels.
Engravings
LORDMINSTREL,
ofla.the3d.ISLES,
ROKEBY,
andLADY
BRIDAL
Steel, Favourite
SOa.
TRIERMAIN,
each;
cloth,
la.
erf.;
morocco,
gilt
In1 One Vol. royal 8vo., uniform with the
edges, s. 6d.
Novels, People's Edition. With Portrait, 10a.
VIII.
New Illustrated
Editions
of The
LADY
The
same, Edition.
Large Paper, uniform with the Novels,
ofSTREL,
the LAKE,
MARMION,
LAY
of
the
LAST
MIN
Abbotsford
and LORD on
of the
ISLES,
containing
each
from Portraits,
&c, 18a. With 11 Engravings from Turner,
70Gilbert.
to 100 Illustrations
Wood,
by
Birket
Foster
and
John
Printedinincloth,
the best
on 18a.
Tinted
and In One Vol. crown 8vo., with 12 Engravings
elegantly
gilt style
edges,tartan
eachPaper,
; morocco
elegant orbound
antique, 2As. j enamelled
boards,
36a. | from Turner and others, 7a. 6a*. ; extra cloth, gilt edges,
Edinburgh : ADAM and CHARLES BLACK. London : HOULSTON and WRIGHT.
And all Booksellers.

THE NEW REGISTERED PORTMANTEAU,
EEOISTEBED AND MANUFACTURED BT
JOHN SOUTHG-ATE,
76, WATLING STREET,
LONDON.
This Portmanteau Is admitted by all who have used It to be the most perfect and useful of any
yet invented, and to combine all the advantages so long desired by those who travel.
Its peculiar conveniences consist in its containing separate compartments for each description
of Clothes. Boots, &c. : each division is kept entirely distinct, and is immediately accessible on
opening the Portmanteau, without lifting or disturbing anything else ; every article Is packed per
fectly flat, and remains so during the whole of the journey.
SOUTHGATE'S NEW FOLDING PORTMANTEAU.
With separate divi
sions for ShirtB, Linen,
Clothes, and Boots ; the
whole of which are
immediately accessible
on opening the Port
manteau.
Both of these Port
manteaus are admir
ably adapted for Con
tinental travelling, on
account of the facility
they offer for Custom
house examination,
without disarranging
the wardrobe.
JOHN SOUTHGATE'S LADIES' PORTMANTEAUS AND DRESS TRUNKS,
With Trays and Moveable Divisions for Bonnets, contain every convenience for packing separately
Dresses, Bonnets, Linen, Sec, and are made in various styles and sizes.
They may be obtained of Mr. Wilkinson, 30, Cockspur Street; of Messrs. Moore & Co., 14, St,
James's Street, London ; of Mr. Hunt, Above Bar, Southampton ; of Mr. Bats, Hatter, Cambridge ;
of Mr. Ellknqer, Granger Street, Newcastle-on-Tyne ; Mr. Nokthaw, Trunk Maker, opposite St.
Sidwell's Church, Exeter; Mr. Damon, Weymouth; Mr. Nicholson, Saddler, Manchester; of any
Saddler or Outfitter throughout the kingdom ; and of the Manufacturer,
JOHN SOTJTHOATE, 76, WATLING STBEET, LONDON.

SOUTH-EASTERN
27
RAILWAY.
THE MAIL SHORT SEA-ROUTE TO ALL PAETS OF THE CONTINENT,

VIA FOLKESTONE AND BOULOGNE, AND DOVER AND CALAIS.
LONDON, PARIS, AND THE SOUTH OF EUROPE.
Paris in 10J hours.
Switzerland (Bale) 37i hours.
Marseilles 34 hours.
Bordeaux 38 hours.
Sea-passage under 2 hours.
Four departures daily.
1 . By Tidal Service via Folkestone and Boulogne. For times of sailing
see Company's Time-book and Bradshaw's Guides.
This Service is now accelerated so as to perform the journey between
London and Paris in less than 11 hours. Small Boats are never used
in embarking or landing. The Trains are accompanied by an Inter
preting Conductor.
OTHER SERVICES
Leave London
Arrive at Paris Leave Paris Arrive in London
2. 8.30 a.m. (via Calais) 10.20 p.m.
8.0 a.m.
10.0 p.m.
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5.30 a.m.
1.45 p.m.
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4. 8.30 p.m.
9.10 a.m.
7.30 p.m.
7.45 a.m.
Baggage can be registered by all Through Trains.
LONDON AND PARIS.
There is a Tltird Class Service between these Cities. Fare, 25s.
Return Tickets are also issued, First and Second Class.
LONDON, BELGIUM, HANOVER, GERMANY, THE
RHINE, AND THE NORTH OF EUROPE,
via Dover and Calais, and Dover and Ostend.
Brussels in 13 hours.
Berlin in 35 hours.
Cologne in 19 hours. Hamburg in 36 hours.
Three departures from London daily, viz. 8.30 a.m. (the most
convenient Service), 1.30 p.m., and 8.30 p.m. Trains.
Baggage can be registered to Brussels, Cologne, &c, by which
each Passenger secures an allowance of 50 lbs. weight of Baggage free
on the Belgian and Rhenish Railways.
Through Tickets to nearly all the Chief Continental Cities (enabling
the passenger to stop at certain places on the journey) and all informa
tion may be obtained at the Chief Offices, London Bridge Station ;
40, Regent Circus, Piccadilly. City : 147, Cheapside, and 20, Moorgate Street. Paris : 4, Boulevard des Italiens. Brussels : 74, Montagne de la Cour. For further particulars, see Time-book and Bills.
C. W. EBORALL, General Manager.
London Terminus, May, 1858.
28

The Society of Swiss Couriers and
Travelling Servants.
THIS Society, having been composed only of the most

experienced and respectable Couriers and Travelling
Servants having a thorough knowledge of the Continental
and Eastern Languages, beg most respectfully to solicit the
patronage and support of the Nobility and Gentry.
They possess the highest testimonials from those they have
had the honour of serving both in England and abroad, and
trust to merit a continuance of future favours.
All information respecting Couriers and Travelling Servants
can be had of the Agent,
HENRY MASSET, Manufacturing Stationer,
103, Park Street, Grosvenor Square.
GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY.
A KNOWLEDGE of these interesting branches of Science adds greatly to the
pleasure of the traveller in all parts of the world, and may lead to important discoveries.
Mr. TENNANT, Mineralogist to Her Majesty, 149, Strand, gives Practical Instruction
to Travellers in Mineralogy and Geology. He can supply Geological Maps, Hammers,
Acid Bottles, Blowpipes, and all the recent Works on Mineralogy, Conchology, Chemistry,
and Geology.
Elementary Collections of Minerals, Rocks, and Fossils, at Two, Five, Ten, Twenty, Fifty,
and One Hundred Guineas each.
A Collection for Five Guineas, which will illustrate the recent works on Geology by Lyell,
Ansted, Mantel!, and others, contains 200 Specimens, in a plain Mahogany Cabinet, with
five Trays, comprising the following specimens, viz. :
MINERALS which are either the components of Rocks, or occasionally embedded In them :
Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestos, Felspar,
Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, Strontia, Salt, Sulphur,
Plumbago, Bitumen, &c.
NATIVE METALS, or METALLIFEROUS MINERALS : these are found in masses or
beds, in veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. Specimens of the following metallic
ores are put in the Cabinet : Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver,
Gold, Platina, &c.
ROCKS : Granite, Gneiss, Mica-slate, Clay-slate, Porphyry, Serpentine, Sandstones, Lime
stones, Basalt, Lavas, &c.
PALEOZOIC FOSSILS from the Llandeilo, Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and Carboni
ferous Rocks.
SECONDARY FOSSILS from the Lias, Oolite, Wealden, and Cretaceous Groups.
TERTIARY FOSSILS from the Woolwich, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London-clay,
Crag, &c.
In the more expensive collections some of the specimens are rare, and ail more select.
Mr. Tennant has on sale the Duke of Buckingham's Collection of Minerals from Stowe.
It contains upwards of 3000 specimens, and has been greatly enriched since the purchase
by a collection of coloured Diamonds, Australian Gold, &c. Price 2000 guineas.
J. TENNANT, Geologist, No. 149, Strand, London.
29
NEW
ILLUSTRATED
CATALOGUE
CONTAINS
DESIGNS AND PRICES
150 DIFFERENT ARTICLES OF

BED-ROOM
FURNITURE,
AS WELL AS OF
100
BEDSTEADS,
AND
Prices of Every Description of Bedding.

SENT
FREE
HEAL
BY
AND
POST.
SON,
BEDSTEAD, BEDDING, AND BED-ROOM

FURNITURE MANUFACTURERS,
196, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD,
LONDON.
30
TO TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS.

PASSPORTSNEW REGULATIONS. BRITISH SUBJECTS who are
preparing to visit or travel on the Continent may be saved much trouble and
expense by obtaining Foreign Office Passport* through EDWARD STANFORD'S
Agency, 6, Charing Cross, London ; whose experience and long established arrange
ments enable him to ensure Passports in proper form and duly vised, according to
the New Regulations, without personal attendance. He mounts the Passport,
which is good for many years, on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, Morocco, or Russia
Case, to prevent injury or loss, as well as to lessen delay in undergoing examina
tion abroad. Residents in the country can have Passports obtained, completed,
and forwarded by post.
For further particulars, including the Forms of Application, Cost of Passport,
Visa*, Ate. &c, see Stanford's Passport Circular, which will be forwarded per post
on application.
Edward Stanford has on sale at all times the best English and Foreign Maps,
Handbooks, and Railway Guides, Pocket Dictionaries, and Conversation Books.
THE FOLLOWING CATALOGUES,
Embracing various portions of EDWARD STANFORD'S Stock, may be had
upon application.
1.Ordnance Maps.Catalogue of the ORDNANCE MAPS, published under the
superintendence of Lieut.-Colonel James, R.E., Superintendent of tbe Ordnance
Surveys.
2.Geological Survey Maps.Catalogue of the GEOLOGICAL MAPS,
SECTIONS and MEMOIRS of the GEOLOGICAL SURVEY of GREAT BRI
TAIN and IRELAND, under the superintendence of Sru Roderick I. Murchison, Director-General of the Geological Surveys of the United Kingdom.
3.Geological Maps.Catalogues of the best GEOLOGICAL MAPS of various
parts of the World.
4. General Catalogue.General Catalogue of Atlases, Maps, Charts, Plans
&c, English and Foreign, including the Trigonometrical Surveys of various
States.
5.Useful Knowledge Maps.Catalogue of Atlases, Maps, and Plans, en
graved under the superintendence of The Society for the Diffusion of
Useful Knowledge.
6.Admiralty Charts.Catalogue of Charts, Plans, Views, and Sailing Direc
tions, &c, published by order of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,
178 pages royal 8vo., price Is. 6<Z.
7.War Department.Catalogue of the Plans, Maps, and Drawings, issued by
The War Department, and sold by Edward Stanford.
8.Educational.Catalogue of Educational Atlases and Maps, recently published
by Edwabd Stanford.
9.Emigration.A List of Publications on the British Colonies and the United
States, selected from the Stock of Edward Stanford.
10.Johnston's Maps.Johnston's List of Geographical and Educational Works,
comprising Atlases, Maps, Globes, &c, sold wholesale and retail by Edward
Stanford.
11.Guide-Books for Tourists.Catalogue of Guide-Books, Maps, Plans,
Dictionaries, and Conversation-Books, &c, for Tourists and Travellers.
LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD, 6, CHARING CROSS.

TO TOTTBISTS & TEAVEIXEBS,
Visitors to the Sea Coast, and to those who
eiyoy the Promenade, the Ride and Drive.
In all cases, fervid heat, and its concomitant, |
dust, materially injure the skin, producing
sunburn, tan, freckles, and discolourations of
an almost indelible character. To obviate
and eradicate these baneful results, recourse
may with confidence be had to
ROWLANDS' KALYDOR,
an Oriental botanical preparation. Whether
resorted to in its specific character as a tho
rough purifier of existing defects of an erup
tive nature, and discolourations of the skin,
or as a preserver and promoter of its already
bright and glowing tints, this
ELEGANT TOILETTE REQUISITE
has in every instance maintained its claim to
the title of - THE UNFAILING AUXI
LIARY OF FEMALE GRACE." During
Summer and Autumn the invigorating and
refreshing properties of Rowlands' Kalydor
will be found singularly agreeable to
LADIES TBAVEL1ING;
the effects produced by temporary exposure
to solar heat upon the Face, Neck, Arms,
and Hands being neutralized, and the cloud
induced by relaxation and languor dispelled
by Its power of sustaining a perfect elasticity
of the Skin ; without which certain deteriora
tion takes place ;thus, in the usual periodical
visits made to the coast, Rowlands' Kalydor
is indispensable as a preservative of the Skin
after SEA BATHING, from the irritation
caused by the chemical action of saline
vapour. Trice 4s. 6d and 8s. 6e(. per bottle.
The heat of summer also frequently com
municates a dryness to the hair, and a ten
dency to fall off, which may be completely
obviated by the use of
ROWLANDS' MACASSAR OIL,
a delightful fragrant and transparent pre
paration, and as an invigorator and purifier
beyond all precedent.
Nor at this season can we be too careful !
to preserve the Teeth from the deleterious j
effects of vegetable acids (the immediate
cause of toothache), by a systematic employ
ment, night and morning, of
ROWLANDS' ODONTO,
OR, PEARL DENTIFRICE.
a White Powder, compounded of the rarest
and most fragrant exotics. It bestows on j
the Teeth a pearl-like whiteness, frees them
from Tartar, and imparts to the Gums a
healthy firmness, and to the Breath a grateful
sweetness and purity.
Sold by A. Rowland and Sons, 20, Hatton
Garden, London, and by Chemists and Perfumers.
Beware of Spurious Imitations ! ! !
The only genuine of each bears the name
of " ROWLANDS' " preceding that of the
article on the Wrapper or LabeL
S
31
GALIGNANi'S
NEW PARIS GUIDE.
Compiled from the best authorities, re
vised and verified by personal inspection,
and arranged on an entirely new plan,
with Map and Plates. Royal 18mo.
10s. 6<2. bound ; or without Plates, 7s. 6tJ.
bound.
London : Simpkin, Marshall, & Co.
GERMAN LANGUAGE AND
LITERATURE
Taught on Ann's celebrated System by
KEREN OSCAR VON WEGNERN.
Twelve Lessons for Travelling.
4, Sydney Street, Brompton, S.W.,
at a short distance from
BELGRAVE SQUARE.
Lake of Geneva.
PENSION MASSON,
Situated within half a mile of the
Castle of Chillon, will he found in
every respect an extremely comfortahle and well-regulated establishment. Terms, very moderate. The
surpassing heauty of the surround
ing scenery is universally admitted ;
and not only has the locality its
undeniable attractions for summer
visitors, but as a winter residence
it is no less desirable ; its remark
ably sheltered position, protected
as it is from the north and east, ren
dering its climate truly delightful.

WORKS ON THE FINE ARTS.
The following are now Ready.
THE TREASURES OE ART : Being an Account of the
Chief Collections of Paintings, Sculptures, Drawings, &c, in Great Britain.
By Dr. Waa&en. 2nd Thousand. 4 vols. 8vo.
KUGLER'S HANDBOOK OF PAINTING: the Italian
Schools. Edited, with Notes, by Sir Charles Eastlake, E.A. Third
Edition. With 150 Illustrations. 2 toIs. Post 8to. 30s.
THE EARLY FLEMISH PAINTERS: their Lives and
Works. By J. A. Crowe and G. B. Cavaselle. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 12s.
A HANDBOOK FOR YOUNG PAINTERS.
Leslie, R.A. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d.
By C. R.
HANDBOOK OF ARCHITECTURE : Being a Concise and

Popular Account of the different Styles of Architecture prevailing in all Ages
and all Countries. By James Ferousson. 3rd Thousand. With 850 Illus
trations. 2 vols. 8vo. 36s.
A BIOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF ITALIAN
PAINTERS. Edited by R. N. Wornum. With a Chart. Post 8vo. 6s. Gd.
LIFE OF THOMAS STOTHARD, R.A. By Mrs. Beat.
With 70 Illustrations. Small 4to.
t
MEDIEVAL AND MODERN POTTERY. By Joseph
Marryat. With Coloured Plates and 240 Woodcuts. Medium 8vo. 31s. 6d.
ANCIENT POTTERY : Egyptian, Assyrian, Greek, Etrus
can, and Roman. By Samuel Birch, F.S.A. With Coloured Plates and
200 Woodcuts. 2 vols. Medium 8vo. 42s.
AN ILLUSTRATED HANDBOOK OF THE ARTS OF
THE MIDDLE AGES AND RENAISSANCE. By M. J. Labaste.
With 200 Woodcuts. 8vo. 18s.
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS, Historical and Romantic.
Translated by J. G. LoCKHART. With Coloured Borders, Woodcuts, &c 4to.
HORACE ; HIS LIFE AND WORKS By Dean Milman.
With 300 Illustrations from the Antique. 8vo. 30s.
THE ILLUSTRATED PRAYER-BOOK. With Borders,
Initial Letters, and Illustrations from the Old Masters. 8vo. 21s.
THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS; their Private Life, Man
ners and Customs. ByjSir J. G^Wilkinson. With 500 Woodcuts. 2 vols.
Post 8vo. 12s.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
33
SUNSET ANY HOUR.

SCENERY, however extensive, viewed through the IMITATION SUNSET
^ GLASSES, appears as if glowing in a beautiful Sunset. Invaluable little boons for
viewing Scenery. It is better to use two Glassesone to each eye. Post-free by return :
the fair, 36 stamps ; in best black or white ivory, 60 stamps. Single Glass, 18 and 30 stamps.
G. F. MOETON, ISLINGTON GEEEN, LONDON, N.
These Glasses have a most beautiful effect at the Crystal Palace, inside and outside the Palace.
MUDIE'S
SELECT
LIBRARY.
NOTICE.
C\ E. MTJDIE has the pleasure to announce that the altera" tions in progress at his Library are now sufficiently advanced to
provide increased accommodation for the Subscribers and greater facilities
for the rapid exchange of books. The supplies of the higher class of works,
for the circulation of which the Library was originally established, are also
largely increased, and will be further augmented by the addition of more
than One Hundred Thousand Volumes in the course of the present and
ensuing season.
509, 510, & 511, New Oxford Street,
and 20 & 21, Mdsedm Street, London.
May, 1858.
MESSRS. TURNER AND ADAMS,
Foreign Office Passport Agents, 65, Sing Street, Downing Street,
London,
FROM their thorough knowledge of the business and close proximity to the Foreign Office,
are enabled to transact all business connected with obtaining Passports and Visas with
great despatch and entire satisfaction to their employers.
Visas One Shilling each. Passports mounted in the best manner.
Murray's Handbooks, Bradshaw's Guides, Maps, &c, supplied to order.
California, Mexico, Central America, Peru, Chili, Australia,
and New Zealand.
The shortest route to all Ports on the West Coast of North"and South America, as also to
Australia and New Zealand, is that vid the
PANAMA RAILWAY.
In Two Hours and a Half from the Atlantic to the Pacific !
Through fare, 25 dollars; children under twelve, half-priceunder six, quarter price.
Passengers allowed 50lbs. of luggage; all above that weight 10 cents per lb. 'Express
freight lor Passenger trains 1 dollar 80 cents per cubic foot. First-class freight, comprising
Merchandise, in boxes and bales, 50 cents per cubic foot; second-class, li cent per lb.;
third-class, 1 cent per lb.; fourth-class, \ cent per lb.; fifth-class, t cent per lb.; sixth,
i cent per lb. The Steamers of the Royal Mail Company leave Southampton fortnightly
for Aspinwall, and steam communication is maintained by the Pacific Mail Company
between Panama and California, Mexico, Peru, and Chili, and by the Railway Company
between Panama and Central America. The SALAD1N Steamer also sails regularly from
Liverpoolapply to Mr. Holt; and sailing vessels from Londonapply to MessrB. Oswald,
Fitze, and Co. For further particulars apply to the London Agent of the Company,
9, NEW PALACE YAED, LONDON.
.
D
31

OFFICIAL
Illustrator gatterajr (faxxxbt-âafo.
BY GEORGE MEASOM.
UNIFORM PRICES.
In Wrapper, Is. ; or, in Cloth, Elegantly Sound, with Maps, 2s.
COUTH-EASTERN RAILWAY AND ITS BRANCHES.
200 Engravings.
" This, without exception, is the cheapest work ever issued. How a book with 20O
Engravings, all original, over 400 pages of letterpress, and a splendid Map, can be issued
for a shilling will ever remain to us a mystery. Of course all our readers will, if possible,
obtain a copy."Herald.
\V. H. Smith and Son, London Bridge and all Stations.
THE NORTHERN RAILWAY OP FRANCE, including
-I- SIX DAYS IN PARIS. 100 Engravings and magnificent Map.
W. H. Smith and Son, London Bridge and all Stations ; A. Hall,
Virtue, & Co., 25, Paternoster Row, London.
The Two Books together, bound and gilt, 2s. 6d.
THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY & its BRANCHES,
J- KING'S CROSS TO YORK. 90 Engravings.
"The Official Guide-book to the Great Northern Railway (Smith, and Son,
Strand), compiled and illustrated with 90 engravings by the fertile pencil of George
Measom, is one of those amusing and indispensable companions for a long journey which
beguiles its tedium, satisfies the curiosity, instructs, amuses, and delights in so eminent a
degree, that in itself, and apart from its obvious uses, it cannot fail to be a really inter
esting book."Despatch, Dec. 1857.
*' We have found profit and pleasure in it,"Athenmum.
W. H. Smith and Son, King's Cross and all Stations.
THE SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY and its BRANCHES,
including A TOPOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 80
Engravings.
"The Official Illustrated Guide to the London and South-Western Railway, by
G. Measom, is quite a marvel in its way, on the score of cheapness, and will no doubt be
most acceptable, not only to people travelling on the line, but to those who take an interest
in the localities through which it passes. Considering that a tourist without a guide-book
is somewhat in the predicament of a sportsman in search of game without bis gun, the
writer has explored every nook and corner of the London and South-Western Line, and
given the public the result of his labours in the capital shilling volume before us. It is
well printed on excellent paper, and illustrated with wood engravings of more than average
merit."Illustrated Times, July 5th, 1856.
W. H. Smith and Son, Waterloo and all Stations.
Mr. George Measom will feel obliged for any local information of public general interest
for embodiment in future editions of the above works.
74, CKarringtvn Street, St. Pancras, London, N.W. June, 1858.
35
OFFICIAL
BY GEORGE MEASOM.
. UNIFORM PRICES.
In Wrapper, Is. ; or, in Cloth, Elegantly Bound, with Maps, 2s.
NOETH-WESTEBN BAILWAY AND ITS BEANCHES.
70 Engravings.
" It is certainly the most perfect Railway Guide that has yet appeared. As an 1 official '
work it has authority when speaking of the history and statistics of the line. The other
information conveyed in itwill be found not merely interesting, but suggestive. The pages
afford abundant matter for thought' and conversation; and though all is done briefly, yet all
is done well. Few books descriptive of lours contrive to tell so much. The plan here
followed is to take the main, trunk line from London to Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester,
and other great towns, as a basis; describing all that is worthy of description by the way,
and conducting the traveller along each branch as the points are arrived at where each
branch diverges from the trunk."Athenmum.
** The Official Guide to the London and North-Western Railway is richly illustrated, and
will be found a very useful Handbook."The Builder.
W. H. Smith and Son, Euston and all Stations on the Line.
A New and Enlarged Edition in Progress.
BEAT WESTEBN EAILWAY AND ITS BEANCHES.
50 Engravings.
"The illustrations are numerous, correct, and well executed, and the information is
ample, accurate, and carefully conveyed. It it worthy of patronage."Sunday Times.
" This is a little book which every traveller on the Great Western Railway should obtain.
We feel great pleasure in saying a capital idea has been most ably carried out."Morning
Advertiser.
Marshall and Sons, Paddington Station.
THIRD EDITION OF
THE BKIGHTON AND SOUTH-COAST EAILWAY,
J- including a DESCRIPTIVE GUIDE TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM,
and A TOPOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNT OK THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 60 Engravings,
"The fact that this is the third edition of this Guide needs only to be recorded to show
the appreciation, on the part of the public, of the author's labours. The manual deserved no
lets. It contains a great amount of interesting matter within small and convenient compass,
and is illustrated by some excellent woodcuts."Atkenamm.
Connelly, Brighton Terminus, London Bridge ;
AVaterlow and Sons, London Wall ; and all Stations on the Line.
*** Shortly will be issued an entirely New Edition of this work, uniform, with the SouthEastem Bailuay Guide.
Mr. George Measom will feel obliged for any local information of public general Interest
for embodiment in future editions of the above works.
*4, Charrington Street, St. rancras, London, N.W. June, 1858. ,
30
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A Hand Book For Travellers in Denmark No

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HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS

THIRD EDITION, REVISED AND CORRECTED.

WITH MAPS AND PLANS.

THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OP MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OP

countries described. Combined with this, in the Introduction to

1.SCANDINAVIA AND ITS ATTRACTIONS TO TOURISTS.

Scandinavia and its ATTRACTIONS.

quests, and established themselves not only in England, Ireland, and

Scandinavia AND its attrautions.

considerably from each other, sometimes approaching the old Norse,

MAXIMS ANVl SUGGESTIONS.

2. MAXIMS AND SUGGESTIONS.

books upon Scandinavia.

against the constant attempts to overreach them. That some such

books won scandinavia.

Boch, Von. Travels through Norway and Lapland in 1806-7-H.

passports and list of amdassadors.

Zbigler's Views on the West Coast of Norway, with Costumes of the

Sweden and Nortcaij. Ambassador, 14, Halkin Street West, Belgrave

travelling servants.carriages, etc.

CLOTHES AND LUGGAGE.

and buckles, or a very large knapsack of fustian mackintosh. They

best protection. Also leather gauntlets, such as ladies use in garden

Denmark.From England by either of the routes given, to

environs, and Upsala. Steamer to Ystad, Lund, Malmo. Allow

in the upper parts of the great fjords, and a little distance

Hamburg to Trondhjem, calling at Christiansand and Bergen.

Rodvig, Koster, Kallehave, Gaabense, Wordingborg, Svendborgi

On Mondays at 1 a.m. from Gutvig, calling, among other places, at

reaching Frederikshald between 3 and 4 p.m. Prom Frederikshald,

Stockholm to Gottenburg.See Route 63.

1. ROUTES FROM ENGLAND TO DENMARK.

mosey, measures, weights, passports.

2. MOSEY, MEASURES, WEIGHTS.

railroads, ferries, steamers, inns.

"the islands of Fyen and Zealand, is 31 rix dollars, 20 skillings. Smoking is

A SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF DENMARK.

A SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF DENMARK.

A SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF DENMARK.

A SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF DENMARK.

A succinct account of denmakk.

a succinct account of Denmark.

Kogs, which are in such cases called privileged Kogs. An association of

new institutions to the country. This pledge, it will subsequently appear, he

pkoductive industry, TEorLE, etc.

ROUTE 1.LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY SEA. Denmark.

ROUTES THROUGH DENMARK.

it then became a considerable smug

route 1.Hamburg.inks, etc.

with handsome villas and gardens

stop at ; this should be attended to,

City Directory, generally speaks Eng

care is required in taking them :

route 1. jiambukg.NEW buildings.

senate. The person chosen must

unknown, and raged until the follow

the drainage and conversion into a

ancient Dom, is a college under excel

eoute 1.Hamburg.theatue, etc.

At this time the smartest and pret

about the town, though not frequented