You are on page 1of 6

SMALLBORE PRONE RIFLE CLINIC WITH LONES WIGGER COLORADO RIFLE CLUB-BYERS 6/23/2002 NOTES AND COMMENTS

MIRAGE IS THE BEST INDICATOR FLAGS ARE ONLY AN AID FUNDAMENTALS/BASICS • SHOOTING WELL IS BASED ON POSITION • YOUR POSITION IS WHAT PROVIDES FOR A GOOD HOLD • YOUR GOAL IS TO HOLD RIFLE STILL WITH TARGET CENTERED IN SIGHTS • THREE IMPORTANT ASPECTS: - HEAD - NATURAL POINT OF AIM - EYE RELIEF • YOUR POSITION MUST BE COMFORTABLE AND NATURAL • IF YOU HAVE A NATURAL POSITION YOU CAN’T CROSS FIRE • RELAX, CLOSE YOUR EYES, LOOK BACK THROUGH SIGHTS. SHIFT YOUR POINT OF AIM IF YOUR NOT ON TARGET. • IF WINDAGE IS SLIGHTLY OFF - CHANGE LEFT ELBOW • IF WINDAGE IS OFF MORE - SHIFT WHOLE BODY AROUND LEFT ELBOW • IF ELEVATION CHANGE IS NEEDED, THEN SLING MAY BE LOOSE; IF ELEVATION IS TOO HIGH, CHANGE BUTT PLATE LOCATION. • LET LEFT ARM BE COMPLETELY RELAXED • NATURAL POINT OF AIM IS A MATTER OF RELAXING. • YOUR LEFT ARM IS ONLY A FULCRUM • CROSS FIRE? THAT’S A BIG ANGLE, SET YOURSELF UP ON YOUR OWN TARGET. YOU CAN’T CROSS FIRE WITH A PROPER POSITION AND A TIGHT POSITION. • AT 100 YARDS THE ELEVATION CHANGE BETWEEN BULLS REQUIRES VERY LITTLE DIFFERENCE. • THERE IS NOT MUCH CHANGE BETWEEN TARGET BULLS AT 100 YARDS • CONFIDENCE IS BEING ABLE TO GET IN AND OUT OF POSITION WITH NO CHANGE • MOVE YOUR RIGHT ARM OUT OR PUSH CHEST DOWN TO CHANGE TO CHANGE 100 YARD TARGET BULLS • Q: IN WHAT ORDER DO YOU SHOOT TARGETS? A: “I FIGURE THEY’RE NUMBERED FOR A REASON.” • I SHOOT THEM AS THEY’RE NUMBERED. • PRACTICE: DRY FIRE 3-4 TIMES A WEEK • [AT 50 FEET THE ANGLE OF CHANGE IS LARGER, LONES WIGGER SHOOTS THE COLUMN DOWNWARD ON A-36 TARGETS] • THERE IS NOT DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TOP AND BOTTOM BULL REGARDING WIND. • FAST AMMUNITION IS NO LESS SENSITIVE TO WIND. • POSITION: CIRCULATION! DON’T LET YOUR HAND GO TO SLEEP. WORK YOUR HAND, TAKE IT OUT OF THE SLING. STOP AND TAKE IT OUT OF POSITION. NOT GOOD TO CUT CIRCULATION. • CONSISTENCY: CHECK PRESSURE FROM SHOT TO SHOT.

• • • • • • • • •

GET INTO POSITION, CLOSE YOUR EYES, THEN OPEN. YOU SHOULD BE LOOKING THROUGH YOUR SIGHTS. MAKE A CHEEK PIECE. A PROPER CHEEK PIECE IS VERY IMPORTANT CHANGING YOUR HEAD POSITION LEADS TO TENSING THE MUSCLES IN YOUR NECK STOCK PLACEMENT IN SHOULDER; STOCK LENGTH DISTANCE. LEFT HAND AND FOREARM STOP. PLACE BUTT INTO SHOULDER AT THE SAME PLACE. THIS IS MADE BY MADE BY FEEL. HAND RELAXED. FINGERS RELAXED. CONSISTENCY IN SLING TENSION! HIGH/LOW ON ARM MAKES NO DIFFERENCE. IF YOU GET A PULSE BEAT, CHANGE THE SLING HEIGHT. ARM ANGLE: 30 DEGREES OFF GROUND TO BE LEGAL. NOT ARM ON GROUND. SPOTTING SCOPE POSITION - WHEN YOU ARE IN POSITION WITH NATURAL POINT OF AIM, PULL THE SCOPE TO YOU. IT MOVES. DON’T COMPROMISE YOUR POSITION

SHOT PREPARATION • DOMINANT EYE DETERMINES HOW WELL DO YOU SEE. OF COURSE, IT’S TOO LATE IF YOU’RE ALREADY SHOOTING. SHOOTING SHOULD BE BASED ON YOUR BEST EYE. • EYE RELIEF - THEY ADJUST APERTURES 1 - 1.5" IS PLENTY • DON’T TOUCH YOUR SIGHT. SIGHT IS MADE WITH TOLERANCE • SIGHT ALIGNMENT IS JUST CENTERING YOUR FRONT AND REAR SIGHT. THIS IS MORE IMPORTANT WITH SERVICE RIFLES. • SIGHT ALIGNMENT PLUS A TARGET GIVES YOU THE SIGHT PICTURE • FRONT APERTURE SIZE? DIFFICULT TO SAY BECAUSE OF TUBES. AT 27" IS 3.4MM. • AN APERTURE WHICH TOO SMALL MAKES THE EYE TIRED. • IF YOU ADD AN 8" TUBE, THEN APERTURE MAY BE 4.1 OR 4.2MM • YOU SHOULD SEE A GOOD THICK LINE OF WHITE! • ON YOUR TARGET, PUT YOUR CLIP BETWEEN THE BULLSEYE, BUT OPPOSITE THE BLACK - IT MAKES IT EASIER TO SEE THE TARGET • REAR APERTURE: DON’T OPEN IT UP TOO FAR BECAUSE YOU CHANGE YOUR DEPTH-OF-FIELD. • ADJUST YOUR REAR SIGHT: WITH SIGHT COMPLETELY CLOSED, OPEN ONE OR TWO CLICKS UNTIL IT’S CLEAR. CHANGE A LITTLE ON THE DARKER SIDE. • FOCUS YOUR EYE ON THE FRONT SIGHT PICTURE • WHEN YOU SEE ABOUT THE BEST, THEN DARKEN BY ONE CLICK. • SHOOT WITH BOTH EYES OPEN • IF YOU SHOOT WITH GLASSES, ADD AN OPAQUE DOT OVER YOUR LEFT EYE • DON’T SQUINT BECAUSE IT STRAINS THE OTHER EYE. “HOLD CONTROL” • KEEP ALIGNED SIGHT TO CENTER AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE • CONCENTRATE ON KEEPING BODY AND RIFLE STILL • CONCENTRATE ON BULL IN FRONT SIGHT • HELP HOLD RIFLE STILL • IT’S A TIGHT CONTROLLED POSITION. BUT IT’S RELAXED • NEVER USE A MUSCLE IN YOUR LEFT ARM • LEFT ARM LAYS NATURALLY

• • • • • • • • • •

A LOT OF PRESSURE INTO SHOULDER. BUILD IT WHERE YOU CAN LOAD GUN. NEVER MOVE THE LEFT ELBOW WHEN LOADING, IT CHANGES YOUR POSITION. THE RIFLE STOCK LENGTH IS CORRECT WHEN YOU CAN MOVE YOUR RIGHT ARM TO LOAD WITHOUT RAISING YOUR CHEST OR SHIFTING POSITION. BUT THE GUN SITS THERE. RECOIL MUST BE A SHORT JUMP IN A TIGHT POSITION. THE RIFLE MUST BE “LOCKED IN”! THE RIGHT ELBOW CARRIES VERY LITTLE WEIGHT GET YOUR CHEST OFF THE MAT. DON’T PULL YOUR GUN BACK WITH THE RIGHT ARM IF YOU SEE FLOATERS, BLINK. THEN ITS 2-3 SECONDS TO SHOOT COLOR FILTERS - USE THEM ONLY IF IT’S REALLY BRIGHT. THEN USE A POLARIZING FILTER, NOT COLOR. NEVER USE ONE INDOORS.

TRIGGER CONTROL • DIFFERENT CONTROL THAN FOR STANDING (BECAUSE OF WOBBLE) • NOT A BIG DEAL. IT’S MORE IMPORTANT IN STANDING POSITION. • IT MUST BE CONSISTENT. LEARN THE FEEL FOR THE WEIGHT. • SET IT OFF WHEN YOU’RE READY. • YOUR AREA IS SO TIGHT YOU CAN CONTROL THE TRIGGER. • PROGRESS FROM ‘SURPRISE’ AS A BEGINNER TO LEARNING TRIGGER CONTROL. • A LITTLE PRESSURE WHEN YOU’RE SQUEEZING WITH RIGHT HAND, NO DEATH GRIP FOLLOW THROUGH • SIGHT PICTURE CONTROL AND BREATH CONTROL CONTINUE. UNTIL THE GUN RECOIL RETURNS TO BATTERY. • ONLY THEN LOOK THROUGH THE SCOPE • DON’T RACE YOUR HEAD TO THE SCOPE TO WATCH THE BULLET IMPACT. • LET THE BULLET OUT OF THE BARREL THE SAME WAY EVERY SHOT • DON’T DESTROY THE HOLD OF THE GUN • AFTER THE TRIGGER PULL, CALL YOUR SHOT • BELIEVE YOUR CALL: THAT’S WHERE IT SHOULD BE. • EVERY RECORD SHOT IS A SIGHTING SHOT • EVERY SHOT TELLS YOU WHAT YOU’RE GOING TO DO NEXT BREATHING • SHOOT WITH LUNGS HALF FULL, NOT WITH FULL LUNGS • DON’T DEPRIVE YOURSELF OF OXYGEN. • RELAX AND KEEP BREATHING NATURAL • MAKE YOUR SIGHT CHANGE IF NEEDED... DO IT AGAIN. • IF YOU DON’T SHOOT WITHIN 5-8 SECOND: BREATH, BLINK, CHECK WIND CONDITIONS AND TRY AGAIN. MIRAGE • UNFOCUS YOUR SPOTTING SCOPE CLOSER–NOT FARTHER AWAY. • YOU DON’T CARE WHAT THE WIND IS DOING FARTHER AWAY. • IT’S A BIG ASSET • FLAGS ARE SLOWER TO REACT THAN WIND.

PRONE POSITION - EXAMPLE • IT SHOULD APPEAR AS MOTIONLESS - TIGHT AND CONTROLLED • YOUR BODY LAYS BETWEEN 5-20 DEGREES TO TARGET • THE BODY WEIGHT IS TO THE LEFT SLIGHTLY • LEFT LEG IS TURNED IN • LEFT LEG IS STRAIGHT WITH YOUR SPINE • RIGHT LEG AND FOOT ARE TURNED OUT • ADJUST YOUR WEIGHT BY MOVING YOUR RIGHT LEG UP OR DOWN • YOUR LEFT ELBOW IS AS FAR FORWARD AS POSSIBLE IN FRONT OF YOU • YOUR LEFT ELBOW IS TO THE LEFT OF THE GUN • THE ARMY DOESN’T KNOW HOW TO SHOOT • CHEEKPIECE - GET ONE, OR BUILD ONE TO KEEP YOUR HEAD IN SAME POSITION FOR SIGHT ALIGNMENT • OPEN YOUR LEFT HAND • CHECK: WHEN GUN IS PULLED UPWARD - IT ROCKS AND RETURNS TO POSITION, THAT’S A PROPER TIGHT POSITION. • DON’T USE A SPONGY MITT • IT’S ONLY OKAY TO HOLD THE GUN STILL IN THE STANDING POSITION. THEN YOU TRAIN TO KEEP THE RIFLE STILL. • WORK WITH POSITION MORE. INCREASE TIGHTNESS MEANS INCREASED CONTROL AND INCREASED PAIN, BUT YOU CONTROL THE MUZZLE AND SHOOT BETTER. AMMUNITION • TEST IT OFF THE BENCH AT 100 YARDS • YOUR FINAL TEST IS WITH A SLING OFF THE SHOULDER • SHOOT YOUR TEST WITH A TELESCOPE OUTDOORS ON A TARGET WITH 1/4" AIMPOINTS. • NOTE: LONES WIGGER USES A SCOPE WITH 1/4" DOT TARGET • SHOOT TWO OR THREE 10-SHOT GROUPS • THE VELOCITY OF THE AMMUNITION NEEDS TO BE MATCHED TO THE BARREL VIBRATION • A BARREL TUNER IS HARD TO USE IN THE PRONE POSITION. THEY’RE MORE TROUBLE THAN THEY’RE WORTH SOMETIMES. • RIMFIRE AMMUNITION IS SO SENSITIVE TO THE BARREL. A GOOD GROUP MEASURES ¾” OR LESS CENTER-TO-CENTER • SECOND GRADE AMMUNITION, ELEY BLACK OR FEDERAL 900 MAY BE JUST AS GOOD AS PREMIUM AMMUNITION IN YOUR GUN. • FEDERAL TESTS THEIR AMMUNITION ON A 50 METER TEST TARGET USING A REMINGTON 40X, SO FEDERAL’S MATCH 900 AMMUNITION MAY GROUP IN YOUR GUN AS WELL AS ULTRAMATCH 1000. • ELEY TESTS THEIR AMMUNITION IN FIVE DIFFERENT GUNS. • FEDERAL WON’T TEST THEIR AMMUNITION IN ANSCHUTZ RIFLES. WIND • TWO KINDS OF WIND, ONE THAT EFFECTS YOU AND ONE THAT EFFECTS THE BULLET • THE WIND ON YOUR BODY IN THE STANDING POSITION REQUIRES YOUR

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • WIND • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

COMPLETE FOCUS. IN PRONE POSITION IT CAN STILL BUMP YOU FIRST, CONTROL THE MUZZLE GET REALLY TIGHT FORE-END STOP OUT MUSCLE THE RIFLE INTO YOUR SHOULDER HOLD ONTO THE RIFLE WITH YOUR LEFT HAND TIGHTEN YOUR SLING SECOND, YOUR ATTITUDE: ACCEPT IT “I’M GOING TO SHOOT WELL.” YOU CAN DO WELL IN THE WIND - TAKE ADVANTAGE OF IT YOUR COMPETITION DECREASES BECAUSE PEOPLE QUIT STICK WITH BASIC FUNDAMENTALS, DON’T COMPROMISE PERFORMANCE THIRD, UTILIZE YOUR TIME WAIT ON IT 2-3 MINUTES. YOUR CONDITION COMES BACK. WAIT... WAIT... IF IT DOES NOT CHANGE, THEN SIGHT IN AGAIN. FOURTH, CONCENTRATION AND WORK ETHIC YOU INCREASE YOUR CONCENTRATION AND INCREASE YOUR WORK FOCUS ON EVERY SHOT TAKE ADVANTAGE OF LULLS, BUT STILL WITH EXTREME CONCENTRATION ON THE BULLET MIRAGE IS YOUR BEST INDICATOR FULL VALUE WIND IS FROM 9 AND 3 O’CLOCK ½ VALUE WIND IS FROM 1-2 O’CLOCK IT’S EASY TO MAKE CHANGES FROM 3 TO 1 OR 2 TO 1, THERE IS LESS CORRECTION PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR CORRECTION CHANGE A WIND FROM YOUR BACK, 6 O’CLOCK POSITION IS A NO-VALUE WIND, BUT IS VERY DANGEROUS. TODAY’S CONDITION: 11-1 O’CLOCK CHANGES = 2-3 CLICK CHANGE WHEN THE MIRAGE IS BOILING MEANS IT’S GOING TO CHANGE! ZERO IN FROM ONE DIRECTION MAKES HEAD AND TAIL WINDS HARD TO SHOOT IN - THE BULLET FISHTAILS. 10-4 O’CLOCK PATTERN OF BULLET ON THE TARGET IN A CROSS WIND. THAT MEANS 4 CLICKS LEFT OR RIGHT NEEDS 1 CLICK OF ELEVATION CHANGE. USING THE MIRAGE IS BETTER THAN CHASING A SPOTTING ROUND. DON’T CHASE THE SPOTTING ROUND. DON’T ESTIMATE THE WIND SPEED AND THE CLICK-AND-SHOOT. IT’S NOT CONSISTENT ZERO IN FOR THE PREDOMINANT POSITION, THEN SHOOT THAT CONDITION. NEVER SHOOT IN A COMPLETE SWITCH. SHADING: MEANS HOLDING INTO THE WIND... KENTUCKY WINDAGE. IT’S USED WITH TELESCOPIC SIGHTS. COMPENSATE FROM YOUR PREVIOUS ROUND. NEVER SHADE OUTSIDE THE 10-RING....OR BETTER, DON’T SHADE OUTSIDE THE X-RING

PRACTICAL STUDY ON MIRAGE AT THE FIRING LINE

USE ALL YOUR WIND INDICATORS • FLAGS: BE SURE FLAGS ARE STEADY AND HAVE MADE THEIR COMPLETE MOVE. • THE SECOND BEST INDICATOR AFTER MIRAGE • THE FIRST ROW OF FLAGS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT. THEY GIVE THE WIN CLOSER TO THE MUZZLE. • IF IT’S RAINING, WATCH THE ANGLE OF THE RAIN • LOOK AT THE WEEDS IN FRONT OF THE TARGET • LOOK AT THE DIRT FROM THE BERM • LISTEN TO OTHER SHOOTERS AND LISTEN IF THEY SWEAR • DON’T ADMIRE YOUR SIGHT PICTURE – SHOOT IF THE CONDITION APPEARS – QUICKLY. • A NATURAL POINT OF AIM LEADS TO QUICKER SHOOTING WHEN YOUR CONDITION APPEARS. • HEAD VERSUS TAIL WINDS EFFECTS - THE BULLET MOVEMENT IS VERY LITTLE. • DURING YOUR THREE MINUTE WARM-UP PERIOD: WATCH THE WIND. • YOUR EQUIPMENT SHOULD ALREADY HAVE BEEN READY AND SET-UP. GET DOWN DURING YOUR THREE-MINUTES AND WATCH THE WIND. GUN CLEANING AND BARRELS • CLEAN YOUR BORE EVERY 40 SHOTS • SOME BARRELS HOLD LEAD • A DIRTY GUN DOESN’T SHOOT WELL • IF YOUR BARREL FOULS A LOT, CHANGE BARRELS • SHOOT TWO FOULING ROUNDS AND THE BARREL SETTLES • KARL KENYON USES SCHNEIDER BARRELS. • NOTE: LONES WIGGER ALSO LIKES HART AND MCMILLAN. HE HAS HAD NO LUCK WITH SHILEN AND LILJA • A BLOOP TUBE EXTENDS YOUR SIGHT RADIUS. IT’S NOT NEEDED FOR GOOD EYES. • Q: IS A 19" BARREL AND TUBE BETTER THAN A 26" BARREL? I DON’T KNOW IF IT’S BETTER. • KEEP YOUR TUBE CLEAN - USE A SHOTGUN BRUSH. • THE TUBE LETS YOU SEE THE TARGET BETTER • FOR INTERNATIONAL 50-METER TARGETS, 1/4 - 1/6 MINUTE OF ANGLE SIGHTS ARE BEST. DON’T USE 1/8" THERE ARE TOO MANY CLICKS AND YOU CAN’T SEE THE RESULTS. • SCOPES - USE A 20-26X FOR PRONE SHOOTING. TRY AND GET A 1/4 MINUTE DOT SO YOU DON’T LOSE IT ON YOUR TARGET.